PAID La Mamounia Hotel, Marrakesh

A Publication of the National Association of Business Travel Agents
Winter 2008
A Publication of the National Association of Business Travel Agents
Autumn 2011
Photo Courtesy Omni Hotel San Francisco
La Mamounia Hotel, Marrakesh
PRESORTED STANDARD
US POSTAGE
PAID
SOUTH GATE CA
PERMIT NO. 294
Adjourn
Autumn 2011
In Search Of The
Ultimate Steak
BLT Steakhouse
Publisher: National Association of
Business Travel Agents
Editor-in-Chief: Stuart J. Faber
Associate Editor: Cheryl Wilson
Managing Editor: Arthur O. Reynolds
Food & Hotel Editor: Stuart J. Faber
Lifestyle & Spa Editor: Cheryl Wilson
Wine Editor: G. Richard Green
Products & Services Editor: Stuart J. Faber
Published Four Times Yearly
Single Issue: $12.00
Yearly Subscription:$47.50
106 E. 57th Street,
New York, NY 10022
213/752-7470
BLT Steak combines a cozy bistro
ambiance with traditional steakhouse fare.
The interior of this bistro is chic, but not
ostentatious. On the night of our visit, we
were surrounded by locals, tourists and a
few high-profile celebs. Some folks were
adorned in their finest attire-most were in
smart casual wear. Everyone fit in, and appeared to content and comfortable.
Steaks, ranging from Certified Black
Angus to USDA Prime, are accompanied
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and their contents Copyright © 2011 by
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Recommended Travel and
Dining for the Legal Profession
RECOMMENDED BY
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In This Issue
In Search of the Ultimate Steak..................2
Dining Through Spain.................................4
Superior Class Restaurants.........................6
Superior Class Hotels..................................7
Adventures in Morocco...............................8
Traverse City, MI......................................10
Door County, WI.......................................11
Courtesy MGM Grand International
steakhouse offers other mainstays including
prime U.S. beef, milk-fed veal, salmon and
lobster, it doesn’t stop there. Every item we
sampled from the roasted beets to the luscious desserts was out of this world.
For groups of two or more, the Chef ’s
Beef Selection is a beef lover’s paradise. You
can select from Angus Prime 28-day aged
beef or the Wagyu Beef, either Japanese or
Australian. Or, use your casino winnings
and try the Australian A5 grade beef with a
lobster.
Red, The Steakhouse
Courtesy BLT
with a selection of sauces, ranging from
Bearnaise to horseradish, and paired with
decadent sides such as Parmesan flavored
gnocchi and oversized onion rings. Steaks
of this caliber stand by themselves without
sauces.
We launched with a hangar steak,
difficult to prepare correctly, but this chef
knew his stuff. It was tender, juicy and
blossomed with enormous flavor. Bone-in
rib eye should not be missed. At 22 ounces,
two moderately aggressive steak eaters will
be able to restrain their avarice and share the
bounty.
Add BLT Steak’s selection of fresh
seafood, signature salads and blackboard
specials and it sets the standard even beyond
today’s contemporary restaurant-a steakhouse with versatility.
Tom Colicchio’s Craftsteak
MGM Grand Hotel & Casino
3799 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, Nevada 89109
702/ 891-7317
What do you get if you combine a
James Beard Award Winning Chef like
Tom Colicchio with a shiny, brilliant new
restaurant design, food products just hours
from the grounds of small family farms, an
extensive wine list, Kobe beef and superb
service? The answer is one of the best steak
houses in the United States. While this
119 Washington Avenue, Miami Beach,
FL 33139, 305/535-3688
No question here. All the beef is Certified Angus Prime, dry aged to perfection
and served with sauces fashioned from
scratch. Wash it down with a selection from
over 400 wines-all sensibly priced.
Courtesy Red Steakhouse
Chef Peter Vauthy knows how to
prepare a steak. You want rare? That’s what
you will receive-every time-and with a crispy
sear on the outside. An old favorite, clams
casino swimming along with pancetta and
bread crumbs, was my opening selection. I
also sampled the extraordinary hot peppers
stuffed with homemade sausage and tomato
sauce.
I ordered a 16-ounce bone-in ribeye
and it came just as I directed-rare, juicy and
seared with a great bark. The 48-ounce porterhouse for two will have a couple scuffling
for the last morsel.
2
Adjourn
Autumn 2011
Adjourn, BizTravelersChoice & Faber’s Choice:
Publishers of Accurate, Unbiased and
Professional Reviews of Hotels,
Restaurants, Airlines, Destinations & Products
RECOMMENDED BY
RECOMMENDED BY
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RECOMMENDED BY
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biztravelerschoice.com
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A
nd why are these reviews accurate, unbiased and
professional? For one reason, when we visit a hotel
or restaurant, we inspect every nook and cranny. Not
only the public rooms. We snoop around the restaurant kitchen
and peek in the freezer. That is the only way to determine if the
chef keeps the place spotless and uses the freshest ingredients. If
the freezer is full, the chef ’s credibility is empty. At the hotels,
we inspect under the beds—we even check the AC and heating
vents to make certain that dusty air is not being blown your way.
We utilize a checklist of over 120 items for each reviewed facility.
Why are our reviews unbiased? Because we accept no advertising from any of the hotels, restaurants, destinations or vendors
whose products and services we review. We’ve all heard the politicians pontificate on about how they accept contributions from
special interests, yet wouldn’t think of allowing those contributions to affect their vote. Who in their right mind would believe
that spin? An unbiased vote can be cast only by those politicians
who refuse to take contributions from the entities who will be
affected by their vote. By the same token, an unbiased review of
a travel product or service can emanate only from the refusal to
accept advertising.
Our reviews are professional because our staff consists of
professional travel journalists. For example, for the past 40 years,
Stuart J. Faber has traveled to over 90 countries throughout the
world. He is an avid aviator and outdoorsman, holds an FAA
rating as an airline transport pilot, and is certified to fly Citation-500 jets.
He works side by side with many preeminent chefs. He is a
reasonably accomplished chef himself—some of his recipes have
been published in leading culinary magazines. In the past, he
served as a consultant to hotel and restaurant operators. In addition, hotels we recommend are visited and evaluated by a team
of travel agents who specialize in business travel services.
Many hotel and restaurant “reviews” published by some of
the major travel magazines and survey books arc derived from
reports submitted by visitors from the general public.
Assuming these folks really visited the restaurant or hotel
about which they are reporting, how can the reader determine
how much experience they have? We once met a guy who
thought that military food was great. Would you trust him to
recommend a restaurant?
Each hotel and restaurant is placed in one of two categories:
WORLD CLASS or SUPERIOR CLASS. WORLD CLASS are
best in the world. SUPERIOR CLASS are scarcely a step below.
For further definitions, see WORLD CLASS & SUPERIOR
CLASS articles within.
We rate hotels and restaurants with THREE to FIVE
BRIEFCASES. The ratings are not limited to the most expensive
hotel or restaurant. For example, we review, and publish in
BIZTRAVELERSCHOICE.COM, what we consider to be the
greatest (and most expensive) hotels in the world (such as Claridge’s in London). We also review and publish articles on some
of the best chili dogs in the U.S. (such as Pink’s in Los Angeles). Each would receive BRIEFCASES in their respective price
categories.
—Stuart J. Faber & Aunt Bea–
3
Adjourn
Autumn 2011
Dining Through Spain
By Stuart J. Faber
First Stop: Valencia
V
alencia is a city of multiple centuries. Walk for five
minutes away from the modernistic complex I am
about to describe and you will pass through a time
machine to the 15th century in old Valencia. The images of the
ultra-modern structures will fade for a time as you stroll through
old Valencia and make your way through the ancient cathedrals
and old marketplaces. These Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance
buildings around the Plaza de la Reina are a good starting point
to explore the cobble stone streets of the Barrio del Carmen.
Take your pick of over twenty churches, cathedrals, marketplaces and trading houses. Some of the narrow streets converge
into village squares which have become gathering places for
groups of locals either socializing or moving to and fro around a
variety of cafes, coffee houses and shops.
Modern Valencia
I was most impressed with the Central Market. Comparatively an architectural youngster, it was built around 1920.
Housed in a baroque building the size of several football fields, I
explored for hours among the 950 food stalls bulging with fish,
meats, cheeses, spices, fruits and vegetables fresh from the farm,
spices and pottery. The building is constructed with columns
and vaults, ceramic covered partitions and an abundance of
stone, wood and glass. Both the food and the architecture are
intriguing.
Just across the road from Hotel Barcelo, our headquarters in
Valencia, is an assemblage of some of the most spectacular neoteric buildings in the world. Generally, I am not an ardent fan of
modern architecture-you know, those awful 1960s buildings that
resemble giant glass and steel shipping crates. But the structures
in La Ciutat de les Arts i les Cienies Complex, otherwise known
as the City of the Arts and Sciences, are a sight to behold. Designed by Valencia-born Santiago Calatrava, they are comprised
of soaring architectural silhouettes. One resembles a gargantuan
eye suspended over the ground. Another is a pure white bridge,
the soaring suspension towers of which appear half completed.
This stunning architectural wonder, with a blue and white
palette of the Mediterranean as a backdrop, consists of several
dramatic structures. The Umbracle is an assortment of 100 fixed
and floating arches covered with green climbing vines and tropical plants.
The Hemispheric is the eye-shaped planetarium surrounded
by a huge rectangle of turquoise water. The roof of the Museum
of Sciences resembles a dinosaur’s spine. The Performing Arts
Center looks like a giant knight’s helmet. The Oceanographic
is virtually an underwater city. These metaphorical buildings
4
fan out over 20 acres and are joined by wooden footbridges and
submarine glass walkways. Never one to stand still for long, at
this site, I froze in one place as I gazed in awe for hours.
Cuisine
The cuisine of Valencia can be traced as far back as the
eighth century when the Moors invaded the Iberian Peninsula.
They planted a short grained variety of rice along the marshy
edges of the Albufera, the fresh water lake just south of town.
Many of these fields survive to this day. An abundance of local
wildlife and seafood, the Valencia orange, four kinds of green
beans, the most succulent tomatoes you will ever taste and a
host of fruit trees mean that chefs have to extend their reach only
to the city’s back yard for their provenance. Animal foods include chicken, rabbit, lamb, pork, shrimp, mussels and cuttlefish,
the latter best defined as a squid on steroids.
In culinary terms, Spain has entered the 21st century. A
number of new disciplines have emerged. Many of the workplaces resemble chemistry labs more than traditional restaurant
kitchens. Chefs regard their presentations as works of fine art.
Many of these dining adventures consisted of twelve courses
served over a period of four to six hours.
Restaurante Alejandro, a One-Michelin Star dining room at
Amedeo De Saboya 15, www.restaurantalejandrodeltoro.com, is
owned and operated by Alejandro del Toro, a man of unrelenting
precision. He and his staff navigate from one dish to another
with quiet regimentation. Some of the ingredients are rarely
found in traditional cuisine. But should you have a hankering for
rooster crowns with your fish, that delicacy is united with codfish
for a provocative combination. Other memorable dishes included veal chops with piquillos peppers and roasted apples, plus
a fascinating conglomerate of duck liver with cocoa, coriander
mayonnaise and Modena vinegar.
Sunset in Valencia
Dinner ended at midnight and we dragged ourselves back
to the hotel. For paella class the next morning, a good night’s
sleep was mandatory. We did not want to be tardy for class. At
the crack of dawn, we were off to Restaurant La Matandeta, our
paella classroom in Albufera, Valencia, the birthplace of Paella.
www.lamatendeta.com.
A huge spread of farm fresh ingredients from just-harvested
green beans to free range chicken was brought to the outdoor
cooking area. Wild rabbit, mussels, snails and shrimp awaited
their incorporation into the native bomba short-grain rice. We
donned cooking aprons and worked hands-on with the chef as
we constructed the paella from scratch and cooked the masterpiece over a wood fire.
Adjourn
Later that night, we headed for Restaurant Vertical, Calle
Luis Garcia Berlanga, 19, a snazzy ultra modern dining room
on the 9th floor of Hotel Confortel. We gazed through a picture
window which afforded spectacular views of The Center for the
Arts and Sciences. The dinner was launched with an elegant
dish of fois gras infused with rich cream and served with shaved
truffles and caviar. Next, a turbot filet was oven roasted to a
delicate, melt-in-your-mouth texture and presented with baby
home grown vegetables drizzled with a pineapple puree. Filet mignon was reposed over a wine reduction and paired with billowy
whipped potatoes. The most memorable wine of the evening was
Conde de Valdemor 2005, pressed from the rioja grape.
Dining In Alicante
The next morning, we departed for Alicante, a charming
old seaside town with fabulous beaches, historic buildings, winding streets, outstanding hotels, pulsating nightlife and some of
the best cuisine in Spain. We followed in the footsteps of Greek
settlers who, in 300 B.C., first recognized the beauty of this
area.
With a view of an imposing 16th century fortress to our left
and the city and ocean below us and to our right, we dined on
the crest of a hill at Restaurante L’Ereta, www.laereta.es. Some of
the selections were above my pay grade. They looked gorgeous
on the plate and obviously were the result of intense and devoted
Valencia Marketplace
labor, but were bereft of flavor and mouth-feel. For example,
the coagulated blood and cuttlefish and the roasted peppers
with fried octopus skins did not excite my palate. But the next
two dishes elevated me to a state of ecstasy. A fresh filet of hake,
similar to haddock, was poached in a buttery mushroom sauce.
With the slightest nudge of the fork, the supple flakes dispersed.
Each bite of the impeccably prepared fish, with the subtle
touches of the mushroom sauce, was divine. Next was a tender,
roasted slice of baby leg of lamb gracefully immersed in a light
rabbit jus and gently sprinkled with bread crumbs.
The next day, I encountered what I consider one of the
culinary adventures of my lifetime. La Taberna Gourmet, San
Fernando 10, Alicante was, hands-down, my favorite restaurant during this excursion. La Taberna is typical of Spanish
tapas cafes, both in ambiance and cuisine-but heightened to an
astronomical level in both spirit and quality. Housed in an 18th
century building on a narrow cobblestone street, the furnishings
consist of rustic wooden chairs and family style tables . Every
item is made from scratch with the freshest of ingredients. Even
the opening presentations of local olives and almonds yielded
astonishing flavors and freshness.
Rice, of course, was ubiquitous. We sampled rice with pork
and vegetables-and in a casserole with crayfish. Black rice with
cuttlefish and artichokes was moist, smoothly balanced and
delicious. Next, we were served steaming caldrons of mussels in
a white wine sauce. That was followed by overflowing platters
of lobster-size red prawns soaked in butter, lemon and garlic.
We implored them to stop-but bowls of fresh Valencia tomatoes
Autumn 2011
drenched in local olive oil were irresistible. More rice-this time, a
soupy version with chunks of prawns and more cuttlefish. Bread
rubbed with fresh tomatoes and house-cured anchovies further
overpowered our resistance. I hardly had room for the fresh sea
bass-and the sensational lamb chops.
Regional Wines
Family operated wine estates, or as they are referred to
in Spain, bodegas, are scattered throughout the region from
Valencia to Requena. The Requena-Utiel plateau, about 250 feet
above the Mediterranean Sea, with its abundance of sunshine
and sea breezes, is a wine grower’s paradise. Three denominations are recognized: Alicante, Utiel-Requena and Valencia.
Some of these wines are available in the United States.
The bobal and tempranillo grapes are exclusive to this
region. Other varietals include monastrell, cabernet-sauvignon,
merlot and syrah. A number are fashioned into sparkling wines.
There is also a prominent Alejandria muscatel wine and some
sweet muscatels from La Marina Alta.
Bodega Chozas Carrascal produces an impressive array of
quality reds and whites. LasDosCes is a young red wine produced by blending tempranillo and syrah. Las Tres is a blend of
chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and macabeo grapes. Their single
varietal wine, El Cabernet f de Chozas Carrascal is made of
100% cabernet franc, a grape which originated in the Loire Valley. It ages for six months in French oak barrels. The Caca Brut
Nature Reserva is composed of chardonnay and macabeo. This is
an intense, fruity and delicate wine with notes of apple, apricot
and tropical fruit.
Just outside of Alicante, we stopped off at Bodega Pepe
Mendoza, an estate that has been in the same family for generations. Pepe’s mother whipped up an extraordinary omelet which
is called a tortilla. It consists of eggs, onions and diced potatoes.
As it cooks, rises like a cake. We returned for seconds and thirds.
The tortilla was accompanied by Spanish salami and one of the
best cheeses I have ever encountered, Queso Idiazabal, made in
the Basque region from sheep’s milk. We washed down these
delicacies with a 2005 Petit Verdot and a smooth and silky
Estrelo Monastrell 2005.
Still another lunch-this time at Bodega Sierra Salinas. Their
mainstay is the monastrell grape. This hearty varietal is said to
have originated in Spain and can withstand extreme temperatures. These owners serve outdoor lunches and dinners for small
groups. Many of the herbs and vegetables, and of course, the
grapes, are grown on the estate. One of their premier wines is
Puerto Salinas 2004 which is composed of 80% monastrell,
13% cabernet sauvignon and 7% garnache tintorea. This clear,
slightly robust has piquant cherry jam nose and a smooth taste
with medium high tannins.
I departed with the impression that Spain has taken its
place as one of the leading culinary and wine-making nations.
–Stuart J. FaberPhotos Courtesy Baroness Sheri de Borchgrave
The Village of Requena
5
Adjourn
Autumn 2011
Superior Class Restaurants
By Stuart J. Faber
George’s At The Cove
250 Prospect St., La Jolla, CA 92037, 858/454-4244
www.georgesatthecove.com
W
hen I respond to the question about my favorite
dining experiences of the year, George’s At the
Cove is always near the top of the list. It is surprising to me how few chefs have mastered the art of preparing
fish. Actually, I am not surprised-cooking fish is often a challenge. But super-chef Trey Foshee has it down cold. I have rarely
tasted fish selections that are so crispy on the outside and moist
and flakey within.
George’s is three restaurants in one. If you love great food
and want to experience innovative, contemporary cuisine at
its peak of freshness, try George’s California Modern with its
ever-changing menu of
stunning collections of
fresh regional cuisine.
If you enjoy
dining in a cozy bar
atmosphere with a variety of opportunities
for people watching,
George’s Bar on the
middle level, with its
indoor-outdoor feel,
Courtesy George’s
projects a hustle-bustle
ambiance and spectacular views of the coastline. The casual
bistro menu offers outstanding selections for lunch or dinner.
We opted for the full climb to the top level to the Ocean
Terrace. The trek was well worth the effort. On top, the ceiling
consisted of a star-stuffed sky with the glow of the full moon
illuminating the water. We could see miles of coastline and
outlines of moored boats bobbing in the gentle surf.
A friendly, efficient waiter sauntered over and took our
drink order. He appeared to be enjoying himself as much as we
were. We started with a hearty soup of smoked chicken, broccoli
and plump black beans. After that, Asian style chicken wings,
spiced with fresh cilantro. We could not resist the marinated
grilled fish tacos. They were presented with a mango salsa,
jalapeno-lime cream fraiche with guacamole and shredded cabbage. These appetizers were so satisfying that we debated about
venturing further. But we could not resist the sesame crusted
sea bass served with baby bok choy and oyster mushrooms.
The texture of the fish was exquisite-a rare accomplishment in
most restaurants. The Scottish salmon was firm and extremely
flavorful. Served with a refreshing faro salad, the selection was
a healthy choice for both omega-3 and grains. Just for fun, we
retreated from seafood and sampled a tender, robust hanger
steak with onions seeped in red wine and served with a blue
cheese butter and French fries. Chef Trey also excelled in that
department.
Chez Papa Resto
4 Mint Plaza, San Francisco, CA 94103
415/546-4134
ew restaurants are popping up all over the Bay Area.
Some barely survive their first year. Others will endure for years to come. Papa Resto will undoubtedly prevail and,
in my view, will take its place as a San Francisco culinary landmark. Just south of Market Street, a group of old warehouses
N
6
and office buildings has been converted to sleek new shops and
restaurants. Papa Resto is tucked away within this attractive
compound. From the moment we strolled into this colorful,
cleverly illuminated restaurant, we could sense the energy of
culinary enthusiasm and dedication. Even before we were seated,
somehow we knew that this would be an exceptional experience. Our instincts were correct.
How much can
you do with salad
greens? Papa Resto
raises the bar. A portion of endive, baby
arugula, a few chips
of apples and candied
walnuts were lightly
dressed with redolent
mustard vinaigrette.
Hard to believe how
Courtesy Chez Papa
so few ingredients
could yield such robust flavor.
Papa Resto raises the burger to new levels. Dry aged
choice sirloin is ground on site and formed into generously
sized patties. Soft caramelized onions were added along with a
freshly made aioli and three thick slices of Gruyere. If ever there
was a gourmet hamburger, this was it. The pommes frites are
hand cut, thin and crispy.
We selected a Nicoise salad with grilled albacore, a soft
quail egg with Marzano tomatoes and a tapenade vinaigrette.
The top-grade tuna was grilled to rare. Another great item is
the grilled flat iron steak with a bone marrow gremolata and a
gorgeous veal jus.
I generally avoid dessert at lunchtime, but I could not resist
a serving of pistachio gelato with a warm chocolate sauce. I was
delighted with my decision.
Suzanne’s Cuisine
502 W Ojai Ave, Ojai, CA 93023
805/640-1961
ot only is Suzanne’s one of the best restaurants in Ojai,
is inarguably among the best in California Tucked
away in a residential style building, dinner is served in a warm,
snuggly room that has an indoor-outdoor feel. We started off
with a salad of heirloom tomatoes which were so meaty, they
could have been a meal by themselves. A moist and crunchy
crab and corn cake was plump full of crab. We savored a tasty
assortment of Asian dumplings.
For a main course,
I selected one of my
favorites-linguine with
white clam sauce served
with cherry tomatoes. The
clams were supple and
the pasta was cooked to al
dente perfection. Another
in our group chose the
rack of lamb, a chunk of
Courtesy Suzanne’s
which I purloined. This
rich and tender Colorado lamb was lightly breaded and roasted
with fresh herbs. The flavors were intense and the texture was
juicy and tender.
N
Adjourn
Autumn 2011
Superior Class Hotels
Miami Marriott Biscayne Bay
1633 N. Bayshore Drive
Miami, FL 33132, 305/374-3900
D
uring a recent visit to Miami, we searched for a hotel which was equidistant to South Beach, Bayside
and Bricknell. This Marriot was an ideal choice.
Having just completed a $31 million renovation, it imparted the
feeling of walking into a seasoned Miami landmark combined
with a spiffy new hotel.
Located directly on the marina
between the bustling Miami Arts and
Design District and Downtown Miami, the hotel is also within walking
distance of the Adrienne Arts Center
for the Performing Arts and minutes
to South Beach, the Port of Miami,
Bayside Marketplace and American
Airlines Arena.
The completely renovated 600
guestrooms (and 21 plush suites),
sport the latest in in-room technology. Full work desks with high-back
executive chairs and fingertip-close
Courtesy Miami Marriott electrical and electronic outlets for
just about any contraption you may
have in your tool kit was ideal for me. Flat screen TVs, hubs for
laptops, MP3 player and video connectivity, high-speed internet, Revive bedding, dual sinks and rain-style showerheads make
this place like home-only better.
If you want to organize a secret board meeting or a family
get-together, take your pick from over 20,000 square feet of a
variety of function rooms. They offer the latest in technology,
pool parties, a business center and dedicated T1 line and wi-fi
access.
–Stuart J. Faber-
Hilton Hotel
1335 Avenue/Americas
New York, NY 10019, 212/586-7000
I generally avoid large hotels, but the New York Hilton is
a pleasant exception. Strategically located in midtown at 1335
Avenue of the Americas between 53d and 54th Streets, it’s a
great place to headquarter for prowling around my favorite midtown haunts. A recent
renovation, a posh new
8000 square foot fitness
center and an Executive
Floor with its attractive
rooms and access to a
full breakfast and noshes
throughout the day, I
found that I could hide
away as if I were in a
Courtesy Hilton NY
boutique hotel.
Today, many hotels are home to great restaurants and the
NY Hilton is no exception. Etrusca is classy, comfortable and
relaxing. Everything from salads through desserts was made
from super-fresh ingredients and all from scratch. For starters,
we sampled sweet and supple Nova Scotia mussels poached in a
light wine sauce with saffron. We also shared a salad of organic
field greens with shaved vegetables and a sherry vinaigrette.
For an entrée, I selected a plump pan roasted free range
chicken with crackling fingerling potatoes, broccoli rabe and
aged balsamic vinegar. We also shared one of my favorite dishes:
short ribs slowly braised in ale and served with fresh golden
beets and crisp shallots. The meat was so tender, we ate it with
a spoon. Cuisine, wine, service and atmosphere were extraordinary.
Ahwahnee Hotel
P.O. Box 578
Yosemite National Park, California 95389
801/559-4884
Arguably, the Ahwahnee Lodge is America’s most beautiful
hotel. Completed in 1927, this architectural wonder blends an
array of influences including Art Deco, Native American, Middle Eastern and Arts & Crafts Movement. These elements can
be seen in the stenciling, woodwork,
lighting fixtures and China patterns.
Some of the most well loved aspects
of The Ahwahnee are its grand public
spaces with stone fireplaces, massive
hand-stenciled beams, rich tapestries
and elegant stained glass.
The Great Lounge is 77 feet
long and 51 feet wide with 24-foothigh ceilings. Ten floor-to-ceiling
windows topped with original, handstained glass panels bathe the lounge in
light during the day. A massive stone
Photo: Kenny Karst
fireplace is the centerpiece for intimate
gatherings. A display of Native American hand woven baskets
further decorates the interior and wrought-iron chandeliers
provide a warm glow in the evenings.
The hotel offers a variety of accommodations. Appointed in rich fabrics, warm woods and Native American motifs,
The Ahwahnee standard rooms deliver comfort and elegance as
a counterpoint to the rugged outdoor beauty. Classic rooms
are graced with even finer appointments and better views of the
hotel grounds and spectacular Yosemite scenery. The Cottage
Rooms, located among the dogwoods and pines on the hotel
grounds, have the comfort of a mountain lodge with Native
American accents and natural wood furnishings.
Talbott Hotel
20 E. Delaware, Chicago, IL 60611
800/TALBOTT, 312/944-4970
If you love boutique hotels with old world charm and contemporary amenities, I can’t think of a better choice in Chicago
than the Talbott. An ideal location, it’s just one short block
from the Magnificent Mile. The lobby resembles the parlor
of an English Tudor home. Mahogany paneled walls, antique
clocks, period artwork and a roaring fireplace made me feel right
at home the moment I stepped in. The hotel was built during
the golden age of hotel phylogeny. Opened in 1927, the hotel
has thrived throughout the centuries. Check-in is seamless and
within moments, you are whisked up to a stately room or suite.
The staff personnel conducted themselves like those in a fine
European hotel.
Each of the extralarge 149 guestroom
features premium linens,
top-of-the-line electronics, residential furniture
and pampering toiletries.
The hotel also has several
one and two bedroom
suites.
-Cheryl WilsonCourtesy Talbott Hotel
7
Adjourn
Autumn 2011
Adventures In Morocco
By Cheryl Wilson & Stuart J. Faber
Morocco is a land of innumerable contrasts. We witnessed
the best of mankind and, lamentably, some of the worst. This
is a country endowed with breathtaking beauty and a society of
folks who never ceased to impress us with their resourcefulness,
work ethic, artistic acumen and cordiality.
called souks, ranging in size from a basketball court to a broom
closet , display tempting locally made goods from leather purses,
jewelry, rugs, handmade clothing, furniture, tapestries, pottery,
fresh fruits and meats, olives and spices.
Marrakesh, our first stop, presented a bounty of new
experiences, the most profound of which was just being there.
Founded in the 11th century, old Marrakesh is composed of
ancient fortresses, walled gardens, The Royal Palace and magnificent homes rooted
from ancient times
to the Colonial period. The architectural physiognomy
of “The Red City”
is unlike any in the
world. Virtually
every building is
covered with a
reddish-brown hue
derived from the
Bedroom - Courtesy Mamounia Hotel
original red clay with
which the buildings
were constructed. Marrakesh also has its modern sections.
New hotels, resorts and shopping centers are cropping up on the
outskirts of town. Fortunately, the center of the city has resisted
this development and retains its old world charm.
The city never sleeps. We prowled the streets and the
outlying areas during various times of day and night. From
afternoon “rush hour” to the predawn hours, activity and energy
were nonstop. The community operates three shifts a day.
Shops remain open, workers were busily baking bread, hammering out copper trays, throwing pottery, herding flocks of sheep
or taking goods to market in a donkey-drawn primitive cart.
Combining the best of French, Spanish and Middle Eastern influences, this food is aggressively flavored and hearty in
texture. Many dishes are prepared in a tagine, an ancient clay
pot with a shallow bowl on the bottom and covered by a dome.
The secret is to soak the bowl in water for a day, then add all the
meats and vegetables, cover with the dome and bake in the oven
or on the stovetop. This process yields evenly cooked ingredients
with a proliferation of their own liquid. Poultry, lamb, beef and
fish are most popular. We had lemon curry chicken and lamb
shanks at least once each day. Most meals are served with roasted
potatoes and couscous. Cold salads include a mixture of fresh
greens, garlic, egg plant and green pepper, or tomatoes in oil and
lemon juice. It’s a mystery how much flavor is extracted from so
few ingredients.
The Magical Souks
Dejema el Fna, The Marketplace - Courtesy Morocco Tourism
The Dejema el Fna, the marketplace is so essential to the
city that it has been designated as a UNESCO Heritage Site.
The entrance consists of a huge square perhaps several acres in
size. Within the square are hawkers, musicians, vendors, jugglers,
entertainers, dancers (human and monkey), snake charmers and
horse drawn carriages. Activity is spirited during the day- and at
night, the tempo explodes.
Food stands and restaurants are scattered throughout
the square As you enter the surrounding buildings, you will
become entwined in a mysterious maze of corridors, tunnels
and stairs that seem to lead to nowhere. Thousands of shops,
8
Cuisine
Perhaps the World’s Most Palatial Hotel
We generally retreat from hyperbole. As soon as we insist
that something is the best, along comes something better. But
we feel very secure when we proclaim La Mamounia as the
most stunning hotel in the world; and with service of unparalleled proportion. Winston Churchill and Franklin D. Roosevelt
agreed with us. First opened in the 1920s, the hotel completely
closed a few years ago to facilitate an uninterrupted $176 million total makeover . The leading designers in the world combined their efforts to create this Art Deco and Arabo-Andalusian
style unparalleled masterpiece .
As soon as we crossed the threshold of this hotel, we knew
that we were in paradise. Members of the staff, a ratio of four to
every guest, seemed to appear out of nowhere. Once their designated task was completed, they discreetly withdrew.
Our guest suites were examples of impeccable interior design. Tiled arches separated the living room from the bedroom.
Each piece of furniture was fashioned specifically for the hotel.
The ceilings were an assemblage of mosaics, wood carvings and
tiles-craftsmanship like we have never seen. The only drawback
with the suite was that we never wanted to leave.
A sumptuous breakfast was served poolside. Freshly baked
breads, homemade cereals, smoked salmon or Atlas trout and
a host of artisan cheeses were just a few of the offerings. We
had dinner at The Moroccan, the hotel’s signature restaurant.
The traditional
Moroccan dishes
were incredible.
The Mamounia is more
than a hotel. It
is the quintessence of design,
beauty, comfort
and serenity. The
18-acre garden,
the gigantic
spa, numerous
Sitting Room - Courtesy Mamounia Hotel
Adjourn
restaurants and detailed function rooms can hardly be described
in words. There is no equal anywhere in the world.
Along The Atlas Mountains
We took a day trip from Marrakesh through the Atlas
Mountains. We stopped along the way to visit the home of
a Berber friend of our driver. This century-old clay home
consisted of four levels. On the first level, family members were
tending to a huge brick oven to bake the daily pita bread. The
next level was devoted to the weaving of rugs and tablecloths,
a skill the Berbers developed centuries ago. A colossal surprise
stared us in the face as we approached level three. In a small
room on a straw covered floor was a huge cow. She seemed
immensely content and comported herself with the authority
of one who belonged exactly where we discovered her. How
she ascended from the ground level to the third floor remains a
mystery to us.
We trudged further up the mountain. A roadside shop
with colorful hand-woven carpets caught our eye. From the outside, the shop appeared to be small. Further inspection revealed
what seemed to be an endless series of huge rooms. The proprietor, a tall, stately Berber man in his fifties, wore a traditional
flowing Berber djellaba, or robe. His long black hair seemed
to merge with his generous beard. He spoke perfect English as
well as fluent French and Spanish. When we inquired about the
origin of his fluency, he responded that he had never attended
school-yet is grammar was superior to many American high
school kids we have encountered.
Although this proud, gentle man was bereft of a formal
education, he certainly educated us. He took the time to recount
a short history of the Berber Diaspora from the Middle East
to Morocco where they became the original inhabitants. He
explained that Berbers have lived in North Africa between Egypt
Autumn 2011
Off To The Seashore
Adventures did not end at the base of the Atlas Mountains. The next day, we journeyed for about three hours from
Marrakesh to the coastal town of Essaouira. Bumpy roads cut
through the desert with the occasional interruption of a small
village. Much of the route was through grazing land. Accus-
Jardin Mamounia - Courtesy Morocco Tourism
tomed to knee-high grass of Wisconsin pastures, it was difficult
for us to understand exactly how the goats and sheep were able
to extract any sustenance from this barren desert floor. Scattered
along the route were growths of small trees. We were astounded
to see several trees upon which full grown goats perched themselves on the horizontal branches. These resourceful animals,
whose hooves were designed for grazing on the desert floor,
ambled up the trees with astonishing dexterity. If Darwin’s
theory of evolution is correct, perhaps a new generation of these
goats will sprout wings.
Eventually we reached the summit of a hill and our first
glimpse of the Atlantic. Essaouira rests along the coast approximately 80 miles west of Marrakesh and about 220 miles south of
Casablanca. Built on a peninsula and swept by the trade winds,
Essaouira is a popular destination for beachcombers and wind
surfers. The Medina, or old city, consists of winding cobblestone
streets and hundreds of small shops.
We checked into the sparkling new Atlas Hotel and Spa,
an ultra-modern hotel with spacious, comfortable rooms and
sweeping views of the ocean. We walked across the street to the
hotel’s seafood restaurant, Le Seven and enjoyed a lunch of fresh
fish, boiled potatoes and fresh vegetables-one of our few diversions from Moroccan cuisine.
A Reluctant Departure
Marrakech and the Atlas Mountains - Courtesy Morocco Tourism
and the Atlantic Ocean since the beginning of recorded time. He
lectured us with examples of differences between the Arabic and
the Berber languages.
We continued to converse as we walked up a few flights
of stairs to a balcony. From there, we could see his “back yard”
which consisted of approximately an acre of planted vegetables
and herbs bordered by the rapidly flowing Atlas River. He was
cultivating growths of tomatoes, corn, zucchini, green beans and
herbs. The garden was laid out in perfect rows that appeared as
if they had been squared off with a T-square. The bright colors
of the plants glistened in the sunlight.
We strolled through the garden and headed toward the
river. “We are not permitted to fish these waters,” he said with
a smile. We stooped at the river’s edge and he pointed to a big
rock.
“That’s where the big trout can be found. I take one whenever I please,” he said with a twinkle in his eye.
We had our farewell dinner at The Riad Dar Moha, one of
the most exquisite and romantic restaurants we have ever visited.
Built as a residence at the turn of the 20th century, it eventually
became the home of the French fashion designer Pierre Balmain. He added an interior garden, a salon with a fireplace and
the luxurious Balmain suite.
The restaurant exudes a residential flavor. The centerpiece
of the tree-lined patio, where we dined this balmy evening, is
a full size swimming pool, the bottom of which is fully covered
with antique Moroccan tile. Chef Moha trained at the Ecole
hôtelière de Genêve and plied his trade at several exclusive
hotels in Switzerland. In 1998, he opened Dar Moha where he
has deftly combined haute cuisine of Moroccan influences with
European touches. The real estate was glorious; the cuisine was
even better. We had yet to be surfeited with Moroccan dishes so
we ordered the usual: lamb shanks cooked in a tagine and osso
bucco with fruit and vegetables. With full tummies, we reluctantly departed for home.
For more information, visit www.visitmorocco.com.
9
Adjourn
Autumn 2011
Secret Places: Traverse City
Seasoned travelers have learned that there is more to see in
the United States than the large cities. Places like Traverse City in
Michigan and Door County in Wisconsin can take you back to what
everyone seems to crave-a more uncomplicated America.
TRAVERSE CITY, MICHIGAN
L
ake Michigan, which separates Michigan and Wisconsin,
penetrates the rolling farm and forestland like a corpulent finger. The lake commences its northward journey just
south of the Wisconsin-Illinois border on the west and just south
of the Michigan-Indiana border on the east. The Lake meanders
almost due north, and then makes a slight turn to the east close
to where it
eventually joins
Lake Huron.
Between these
two Great Lakes
is a narrow strait
of water that
separates Michigan’s Upper
Peninsula from
Lower Michigan.
About 75
miles south of
the straits, another aqueous appendage, this one much smaller,
flows from the main lake and travels south toward Traverse City.
This body, called Grand Traverse Bay, splits into yet two more
phalanges at Old Mission Point. Each continues to the south.
One is called East Traverse Grand Bay, the other, West Traverse
Grand Bay.
Native American settlers and French traders were the first
people to spend time here, and it was they who gave the region
its name – La Grand Traverse, because of the “long crossing” they
had to make by canoe across the mouth of the bay.
One of America’s Best Small Cities
The Traverse City region is the epitome of what many of us
envision as the ideal American landscape. This immaculate, well
manicured small town, populated with stately hand-crafted early
and mid-20th century homes, is surrounded by lakes, rivers,
farmland and forests. An energetic downtown is filled with oneof-a-kind locally-owned first quality stores and restaurants. A
huge lakeside park and beach are just steps from the main drag,
Front Street. A local harbor, from which sailboats, yachts and
speedboats of all sizes and descriptions, travel to and fro from
springtime until late fall, present a living motion picture which
will capture your gaze for hours. A choice of over 20 fresh water,
glacial fishing lakes is within 30 minutes of downtown. More
than six beaches, twelve wilderness hiking areas, plus a host of
golf courses, are all within minutes of town. How many small
cities can claim all of these benefits? How many big cities can
make these claims?
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Beaches
The region has a total of 180 miles of Lake Michigan
shoreline, plus 149 deep, aqua-colored inland lakes that are 10
acres or larger in size. If you are searching for solitude, choose
a remote beach on Lake Michigan or on one of the smaller lakes
- even during the height of the summer season, it is possible to
10
be alone on a deserted Lake Michigan beach. Or choose one of
the many beaches right in the center of town for swimming, volleyball or just hanging out.
Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore
In my opinion, this is one of the most scenic wonders
in America. Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore offers
spectacular views over sweeping vistas of Lake Michigan from
atop high dunes, miles of perfect freshwater beaches, forested
wilderness islands, hiking trails and a series of preserved historic
farmsteads. The glistening waters of Lake Michigan make a stunning backdrop for the dunes and forests, while abundant wildlife
and a diverse ecosystem delight the nature lover.
Shopping
Front Street, the main shopping thoroughfare, is a bustling
place with more than 150 boutiques, galleries, restaurants and
coffee shops. It exudes the quality of small-town flavor that
invites a lazy stroll. Just around the corner, on Union Street, is
the small but captivating Old Town district, and a few blocks to
the west is the Grand Traverse Commons, where the rambling
Victorian-Italianate buildings of a 19th century asylum are being
redeveloped into an elegant new retail district.
Impressive Wine Country
Located on the 45th parallel, Traverse City is home to
vintners who grow grapes and make wines on the scenic Old
Mission and
Leelanau
Peninsulas. The ideal
climate,
with
vineyards
protected
by winter
snows and
conditions
moderated
by proximity to Lake
Michigan,
has given rise to a wine industry that has been recognized for its
quality and variety since the first winery opened here in 1974. Visitors can enjoy days of touring and tastings at beautiful wineries located on some of the most breathtaking sites in the area.
Golf
Set against a backdrop of forests, water and hills throughout picturesque Leelanau, Grand Traverse, Benzie and Antrim
counties, Traverse City golf is incomparable. Matchless designs,
stunning beauty and impeccable conditioning are the hallmarks
of a variety of courses. Golf Magazine has named this region
one of the top six golf destinations in the country.
Some of the Best Cuisine in the States.
I have experienced some of my most memorable meals
in small, out-of-the-way cities. To speculate on the reasons for
this anomaly, perhaps it is the proximity to farms and ranches.
Perhaps, in smaller communities where rent does not amount to
five or six figures per month, the owners and chefs retain more
resources to devote to superior provenance and culinary talent.
A perfect example is the world-class establishment, Trattoria
Adjourn
Autumn 2011
Secret Places: Door County
Door County, Wisconsin
M
ention some of the most popular waterfront
regions of the United States and the subject might
focus on Cape Cod, Big Sur, Florida Keys or
Puget Sound. One of America’s best kept secrets is one of my favorite waterfront regions-Door County Peninsula in Wisconsin.
This secret corner is a cornucopia of varied and spectacular scenery. Every mile traveled, every turn of the wheel, every
detour down a winding country road reveals a new surprise-a
secluded beachfront, a row of early 20th century cabins, a colorful plot of farmland, a turn-of-the-century village or an historic
centurion lighthouse. Point your camera randomly, or even
painters, potters, weavers and other craftspeople, Ephraim has
become a popular artist’s colony
Lodgings
Located on what is referred to as the “Quiet Side” of Door
County, Glidden Lodge Beach Resort , 4676 Glidden Drive,
Sturgeon Bay 54235, 920/746-3900 or 1-866-GLIDDEN, lies
along a beautiful, wide, golden-sand beach with shallow water
ideal for swimming. Along the grounds at Glidden Lodge you
can play beach volleyball, take in a game of tennis or organize a
basketball game. Take a bike ride along one of the quiet roads,
enjoy a barbecue on an outdoor grill or relax in the heated pool,
whirlpool and sauna.
My suggestion is that, so long as you are visiting a lakeside
paradise, you should consider a lakefront resort. In addition to
the Glidden Lodge, I recommend Gordon Lodge, 1420 Pine
Drive, Baileys Harbor, 920/839-2332. There are many in-town
small hotels and lodges as well as a number of bed-and-breakfast
accommodations.
Dining
thoughtlessly, out the window and you are invariably assured of a
postcard-quality shot.
The Villages
Door County, primarily surrounded by water on three sides,
is decked out with rolling farmland, dense forestland and glorious beachfronts. A variety of charming lakeside villages pops up
from time to time. Each has a distinct personality. The cafes and
shops proudly display attractive facades-you won’t see a boarded
up storefront.
Bailey’s Harbor was founded during a fierce Lake Michigan
storm. Today, this safe harbor is a quiet lakeside village with a
state-of-the-art public marina. The downtown features an eclectic mix of shops, galleries, restaurants and taverns.
Egg Harbor is one of the most popular destinations. Meticulously groomed gardens and streetscapes retain the essence of
old Wisconsin charm. Each season seems to present a different
village. In the summer months, golf on any of the three courses,
concerts and festivals and horseback riding are favorite pastimes.
In the spring, the cherry and apple orchards proudly show off
their blooming flowers. In the fall, the Pumpkin Patch Festival
is one of the main attractions. At Christmas, the village is filled
with old fashioned carolers and special tree lighting events.
Downtown Fish Creek is nestled with its back to the rocky
bluffs and its face to the open waters of Green Bay. Just outside
of town, Peninsula State Park, one of the most popular family
parks in Wisconsin, contains eight miles of shoreline where you
can hike or bike along the park’s marshes, forests and bluffs-or
take a tour of the 140-year-old Eagle Bluff Lighthouse.
Ephraim was settled by Norwegians in 1853. A strong sense
of history pervades this village with several of the buildings listed
on the National Register of Historic Places. With its many local
The food culture in the Midwest is based upon several
factors, the first of which is the use of indigenous ingredients.
Second, for generations, Midwesterners have become so accustomed to genuine, home cooked food that a restaurant whose
owners tried to fake it-or become too esoteric-wouldn’t stand a
chance. Most of the vegetables that reach your plate are grown
in Wisconsin. The cattle, the chickens and the fish primarily hail
from the state. Many of today’s local chefs are descendents of
Scandinavians-and the Danes and Swedes are legendary bakers
and cooks.
The Inn at Cedar Crossing 3d Avenue at Louisiana Street
in Sturgeon Bay, 920/743-4200, an example of purveyors of
made-from-scratch cuisine, serves up the best breakfast in Door
County-and perhaps beyond. Bakery items are made from
scratch. I’ve been a cinnamon roll fan all my life-I’ve sampled
many, most of which are disappointing. The texture at the Inn
was similar to that of a true French croissant.
For lunch, I suggest the Sister Bay Café, 10677 N. Bayshore,
Sister Bay, 920/854-2429, a Norwegian-owned establishment
serving great sandwiches, pastas and a juicy roasted half chicken.
In the summer, the Door County Fish Boil is the main
culinary attraction. Of course, only delicate whitefish fresh from
Lake Michigan is used. The fish boil originated as a way to feed
large groups of lumberjacks. Today, it is a cherished tradition.
11
Adjourn
Adjourn
Autumn
2011
Winter 2008
EXPLORING
PITTSBURGH
Secret
Places: Traverse
City (cont. from p. 10)
class museums such as the Carnegie Museum of Art, which,
with its extensive collection of Impressionist andStella
Post- at 1200Impressionist works, takes its place with the leading
11thmuseums
Street in
of the world. The Andy Warhol Museum is the largest
singleTraverse
City,
artist museum in the country. The Carnegie Museum
of
Michigan.
Natural History, displays an incredible dinosaur exhibit.
The warm
Finally, don’t miss the Phipps Conservatory and Botanical
and handsome restauGardens.
rant has been
carved out of
HOTELS & DINING
an extremely
Westin Convention Center, 1000 Penn Avenue,
412/281-3700 is in the heart of the business andominous
Culturalpart of
century-old
District. This is a functional, bustling hotel withthe
premier
asylum
which
has
been
transformed
into
a
dramatic
and
charmrestaurants and a 9000 square foot fitness center.
ing new
living community.
Renaissance
Pittsburgh Hotel, 107 Sixth Street,
Amanda’s background
as an
resulted
a
412/562-1200,
presides along
theoenologist
Alleghenyhas
River.
Thisinlandthoughtful
selection
of
Italian
reds
and
whites
to
enhance
the
mark 1906 building was completely restored and opened as a
Italian cuisine. Examples include a 2006 La Spinetta Vigneto
hotel in 2001.
Bordini Barbaresco from the Piemonte region and Villa Rubini
Pino Omni
GrigioWilliam
2009. Penn Hotel, 530 William Penn Place,
412/281-7100 is a beautiful historic landmark. It is considered
the Grand
Dame
Pittsburgh
and now
offers wireless
intercookie
dough.
Theoftop
was fashioned
by homemade
cheese
net,heirloom
a biz center,
a fitnessI center
and anaabundance
of greens,
meeting
and
tomatoes.
also sampled
salad of field
space,
cucumbers,
red onions and goat cheese, all from local farmers.
Therea are
many
otherveal
hotels,
downtown
and and
in the
Next,
giant
Provimi
steakboth
served
with saffron
neighborhoods.
For a complete
toasted
almond risotto.
The panlist,
friedvisit
veal was caramelized to
or call
toll-free
877/568-3744.
awww.visitpittsburgh.com
rich mahogany color on the
outside
andatjuicy
within-a result
rarelyMy
accomplished
with veal
even be
byto
some
of the
chefs.of
dining preference
would
spend
the best
majority
my time cruising through the myriad third and fourth-generaPlaces
to Stay
tion restaurants
along the Strip. You can’t go wrong with places
Greatrestaurant
Wolf Lodge
a turn-of-the-century
log
like The
Sunseri’s
andresembles
market where
the pepperoni bread
cabin
theasamenities
modernclock
hotel.
Located
comesresort
out ofwith
the all
oven
timely asofa acuckoo
birdie.
I
at
3575 N.any
US-31,
231/941-3600,
this 280
challenge
Napoli
counterpart to866/478-9653,
produce a traditional
all-suite,
north
woods-themed
resort
is
a
full-service
family
tomato pasta sauce with the texture and succulence of
Sunseri’s.
destination,
close toBrothers
Grand Traverse
Mall
and minutes
from
A Primanti
sandwich
is required
dining
for any
downtown. In addition
to great
rooms,
an 18-hole
visitor. The sandwich
begins
with
a basethe
of hotel
meat,has
salami,
eggs
mini
golf course
buffalos
the heart
or chicken
and isand
topped
withroaming
onions,the
colegrounds
slaw andInfries.
of the city, Park Place Hotel, 300 E. State Street, 231/946-3600,
There are locations throughout the city.
is an ideal place to stay. Rich in history, the hotel was originally
–Stuart
J. Faberconstructed in 1873 and the current tower was built
in 1930
For more on this incredible region, visit traversecitylodging.
Every dish is made from scratch. All the breads, pastries and
com or visittraversecity.com.
pasta crusts are created on the premises. Who would consider
-Stuart• J. The
Faber- Other Dallas
ordering a pizza in a fine IRVING
dining establishment?
was extremely TEXAS
& LASI COLINAS,
glad I did. The crust was thin as tissue and as crunchy as fine
Photos Courtesy visitraversecity.com.
I
Secret Places: Door County (cont. from p. 11)
travel to Dallas about once a year. I look forward to gallivanting around Turtle Creek, downtown Dallas and Ft.
Worth. I visit with some of my favorite chefs, hunker down
with a Texas size Porterhouse steak, work it off at theIthotel
fitbegins
ness center then take in some shopping. However,
withLas
a sparkling
Colinas-Irving is the region that seems to offer the
best
all
wood
fireofunder
Dallas-Metroplex worlds.
a kettle of salted
Several factors attract me to Las Colinas-Irving.
To
water. When
begin with, virtually everything is new and manicured-but
not
the temperature
to the point of being austere. I generally prefer istraditional
just right,and
rustic. But I also love the openness and vitality of
thethis
boilresplenmaster
dent new region. Second, Las Colinas-Irving is centrally
locat-of
adds a basket
ed and virtually equidistant from Ft. Worth andsmall
central
Dallas.
potatoes
Third, the region has some of the best hotels and
restaurants
and
onions toin
this part of Texas. And for those with an urge tothe
shop,
every
kettle.
A few
appetite from Barney’s to Bass Pro Shops can beminutes
satiated later,
within
twenty minutes
of your
hotel.whitefish steaks is added and the
another
basket with
the fresh
almostback
a dozen
golf courses,
waterWith
is brought
to a rolling
boil. sprawling resorts and
the EDS
Byron
Nelson
Championship
Tour,is Las
Colinas
At just
the right
moment,
a dose ofPGA
kerosene
tossed
onto
is a fire.
golfer’s
For non-golfers,
Colinas
is a sides
paradise
the
Theparadise.
flame surges
and the waterLas
boils
over the
of the
nevertheless.
For example,
roam
miles
native
forest
kettle.
This douses
the flames
andthrough
carries off
theoffish
oil that
has
and bubbling
rivers
at Campion Trails. Or take a romantic
collected
on the
surface.
gondola
through
Mandalay
Canal.
Visitare
thelifted
National
Withcruise
the use
of a metal
pole, the
baskets
from the
kettle,
drained,
and the
thenIrving
servedArts
up Center,
with a generous
drizzling
Scouting
Museum,
the restored
Irving
of
butter. District
I recommend
the Sandpiper
Restaurant
in Bailey’s
Heritage
or the Las
Colinas Equestrian
Center
and
Harbor
or the Village Café in Egg Harbor for the best fish boil
Polo Club.
3699 Wilshire Boulevard
Suite 700
Los Angeles, California 90010-2726
Address Correction Requested
12
dinners in Door County.
The Mill Supper Club, 4128 Highway 42, Sturgeon Bay,
920/743-5044 has been family operated since the 1930s. The
specialty is family-style chicken dinner. Other entrees include
stuffed shrimp, baked cod, BBQ ribs, tenderloin, deep-or-pan
fried lobster (not native to the Midwest), or walleye (an extraordinary Midwestern fish) or a seafood platter.
My favorite dinner restaurant is Donny’s at the Glidden
Lodge Beach Resort, 4676 Glidden Drive, Sturgeon Bay 54235,
920/746-3900. This restaurant is an example of a traditional
Wisconsin supper club. Donny’s serves succulent steaks, lamb
and pork chops as well as fresh walleye. The homemade desserts
are outstanding.
Photo Courtesy Irving Visitor’s Bureau
For more on these and other attractions, dining, lodging
and special seasonal events, contact the Door County Visitors
HOTELS
& DINING or www.doorcounty.com.
Bureau,
1-800-52-RELAX,
Patterned
after the exotic charm of a Burmese city, the
-Stuart J. FaberOmni Mandalay Hotel, 221 East Las Colinas Boulevard,
Photos
Courtesy
doorcounty.com/Door
Bureau
Irving,
Texas
75039,
972/556-0800, is aCounty
luxuryVisitors
hotel with
gorgeous rooms and suites, versatile meeting rooms and a great
spa and workout area.
Four Seasons Resort & Club, 4150
N. MacArthur Blvd., Irving, Texas 75038, 972/717-0700 is the
premiere golf resort in Las Colinas.
Cool River Café, 1045 Hidden Ridge, Irving, TX
75038-3821, 972/871-8881, is a monstrous, boisterous, popular spot for both tourists and locals. The atmosphere rocks with
dancing, bar/saloon, billiards tables and a walk-in humidor for
after dinner cigars and cognac. Steaks are huge and service is
excellent.
For more information on Irving-Las Colinas, contact
www.irvingtexas.com or 800.2.IRVING
–Stuart Faber–
12