Introducing Peruvian Aji Chiles

VOLUME VI, NUMBER 3, FALL 1997
The
Chile Pepper Institute
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E-mail: [email protected]
http://www.nmsu.edu/-hotchile/index.htmI
Introducing Peruvian Aji Chiles
The Spanish word "aji" commonly refers to
fruits of Capsicum baccatum. The phonetic, a' hee,
was imported by the Spanish to Peru from the
native Arawak peoples of the Caribbean. In
the Quechuan language of the Incas, chiles are
called "uchu." The chiles of Peru are considered by some to be a "lost crop" of the Incas.
Not all chiles grown in Peru are C. baccatum.
The chiles of Peru are considered by
some to be a "lost crop" of the Incas.
Our friend and fellow Institute member,
Stefan Bederski of Agro-Export Topara in
Lima, Peru, has written descriptions of some
of the common aji varieties found in Peru. We
have grown the varieties in our greenhouse at
New Mexico State University and identified
the species of each variety.
If you are interested in obtaining these varieties for your business, please contact Tom
Payne at The Peruvian Aji Collection, P.O. Box
281525, San Francisco, CA 94128; 1-800-442-5777;
Amazon Jungle), it is available year-round in
the Peruvian market. Harvest season on the
coast wheremost of the Aji Amarillo is planted
begins in mid-December and continues until
late March. This variety is used almost daily in
all dishes in Peru, either as a sauce on the plate
with other fare or as an ingredient in the dishes
themselves. The A$ Amarillo variety has existed
in Peru since ancient Inca times, where it is depicted in drawings and pottery. (Heat scale: 7)
Aji Panca (Capsicumchinense)
Aji Panca is the second most common aji variety in Peru and is grown mainly near the coast.
This variety measures 3 to 5 inches long and 1
to 11/2 inches across. The pod flesh is medium
thick with a berry flavor and fruit overtones.
Aji Panca has the same fruit shape and appearance as the Aji Amarillo, but is a deep red to
burgundy color when ripe. Aji Panca is sundried at the farms and sold as dry whole pods
on the national market. Fresh Aji Panca is not
found in the marketplace. It is a very mild
aji and has zero heat if seeds and veins are
yr Descriptions
Aji Amarillo or Escabeche (Capsicumbaccatum
var. pendulum)
The Aji Amarillo is the most common aji in
Peru. In the United States, it is sometimes referred to as the "yellow chile" or "yellow Peruvian chile." The pods are 4 to 5 inches long
and a deep orange color when mature. The
thin-fleshed pods have a fruity flavor with
berry overtones and a searing, clear pungency.
Because the Aji A m d o is grown in all regions
of the country (the coast, Andes, and the
m
Aji Panca
Continued on page 2.
Permian Ajf Chiles, continuedfrom page I .
removed. The pads are usually left on plants
to partially dry before harvest and for final
sun-drymg. The Aji Panca is an excellent sondiment that is used almost daily because of its
great taste and beautiful color. It is also used
for making aji sauces, to flavor most fish dishes,
and is popular as a powder to sprinkle over
pizza (like oregano). (.Heat scale: 2)
Aji Limo (Capsicum chinense)
Although this variety is referred to as the
Aji Limo, the word "Limo" has no real meaning nor translation and is a regional identification name given to it by the local people. The
pod is small and measures 2 to 3 inches long
by 1to 1 1/2 inches wide. Aji Limo has a red
and yellow pod color that ripens into a deep
red, yellow, or orange color. When dried, this
aji becomes tapered and wrinkled. It is mostly
grown and used on the northern coast of Peru,
where it is very popular. It is a hot aji and
used mostly fresh with seafood, especially
in "ceviche," a marinated seafood dish. However, in the Andes the Aji Limo finds great acceptance as whole dried pods. It stores very
well and, due to its high pungency, it is preferred for spicing up foods during the cold
winter nights. (Heat scale: 7-8)
Aji Ayucllo (Capsicum baccatum)
Aji Ayucllo is an original and native name
that has no meaning nor translation. This aji
variety is a small, thick-fleshed, oval-shaped
aji. It is a wild capsicum variety found in the
Peruvian jungle, central region, and Chanchamayo and Villa Rica valleys. The Aji
Ayucllo is not commercially grown but is
grown mostly in backyards or harvested from
wild plants. This variety can be found only in
local farmers' markets. The Aji Ayucllo is
eaten fresh with foods or used as an ingredient
in preparing all types of dishes. (Heat scale: 7)
Aji Ayucllo
Aji Limo
The Chile Pepper Institute Newsletter
Cathy Montes, Managing Editor
Rena Lamllaga, Graphic DesignerKditsr
Lilly Dominguez, Contributing Editor
Rinted at NMSU Agricultural Communications
The Chile Pepper Institute
NMSU, Box 30003, MSC 34, Las Cmces, NM 88003
(505) 646-3028 Email:[email protected]
World Wide Web s i b
http:/~.nm~.edu/-hotchi1e/inde~.html
A Non-Rofit, International Organization Devoted to
the Sbdy of Capsicums
Aji Cereza (Capsicum annuum)
The bi Cereza is similar in shape to a cherry,
thus its name, "Cereza," which means cherry
in Spanish. The extremely hot pods are very
small and round (cherry-like) measuring a
maximum of 1 1/ 2 inches in diameter. The
green immature pods develop into a deep red
Paul W. Bosland, Director
DaniiHolterman-Coon, Administrative Assistant
Gene Jefferies.McIlhenny Co., Avery Island, LA
Javiff Vargas, M U , Las Cmces, N M
The Chile Pepper Institute
Board of Directors
New Mexico State University
Bmmd Jean Cenmtes, Chair, Cervantes Enterprises,
Inc.,Vado, NM
Louis Biad, Las CNces, NM
Paul W. Bosland. NMSU, Las Cruces. NM
Dr. Jerry Schickedanz,Dean, College of Agriculture
ex officio Directors
and Home Economics
Dr. James Fiher, Chairman, DepL of Agronomy and
Horticulture
Dave DeWitt, ~ i e r ~y o o d ~r a ~ a z i n~e l; b u ~ u a ~ u e , Dr. Gary Cunningham, Director, Agricultural
NM
Experiment Station
James Ferguson, Anthony Foods, Anthony, TX
The Chile Pepper Institute Newsletter
color. This variety is found in all regions of the
Peruvian jungle. No commercial growing of
Aji Cereza exists. Although a few plants are
grown on small farms, most of this aji is grown
in backyards and can be found only in local
markets. The Aji Cereza is eaten fresh with
foods or used as an ingredient in preparing all
types of dishes and sauces. (Heat scale: 9)
Aji Pinguita de Mono (Capsicum annuum)
The Aji Pinguita de Mono is known all over
the country because of its unique name which
translates loosely to "little monkey," because of
the pod's size, shape, and color. The pods are
very small, elongated, and pointed measuring
1/2 to 1inch long. The pods mature to a deep
red color. This variety is among the hottest
little ajis known in Peru. The Aji Pinguita de
Mono is found in all regions of the Peruvian
jungle, mainly in the central valley of Chanchamayo. This aji is grown in backyards or
harvested from wild plants, but never grown
commercially. The fruits are found only in local
farmers' markets, and are almost never distributed nationwide. The Aji Pinguita de Mono is
eaten fresh with foods or used as an ingredient
in preparing all types of dishes. (Heat scale: 9)
Aji Norteno (Capsicum baccatum)
The name of the Aji Norteno translates to
"northern aji" because it is a variety that is only
popular in the northern coastal valleys of Peru.
Ripe pods mature to yellow, red, and orange
colors and measure about 3 to 4 inches long
and 3/4 inch across. Its shape is slightly curved
and tapering to a point that is ideal for decoration of plates either whole or cut in rings. The
Viru and Lambayeque valleys, about 1,000 km
north of Lima, are the main production areas.
Aji Norteno
Volume VI, Number 3, Fall 1997
This variety is found only in regional and local
markets. The Aji Norteno is a hot aji variety
which is commonly eaten fresh with seafood.
Northern people pledge that the Aji Norteno
has a "better northern taste." (Heat scale: 6)
Aji Mono (Capsicum baccatum)
The name of the Aji Mono translates to "monkey aji." This aji measures about 4 to 5 inches
long and 3/4 inch across. The Aji Mono has a
nice red color when ripe. This very hot aji is a
bright scarlet and is slightly curved with a tapering point. This variety is grown in the Peruvian jungle and found only at local farmers'
markets. This medium-fleshed aji is used mostly
fresh and is cut in pieces which is served with
food or as an ingredient in dishes. People in
the jungle eat very spicy foods and Aji Mono
is a perfect condiment for their dishes. (Heat
scale: 7)
Aji Mono
Aji Verde (Capsicum baccatum)
Aji Verde is another aji variety found in the
northern coastal valleys of Peru, mainly in
Lambayeque and Piura. The name translates
to "green chile," however, the mature pods
ripen into red and orange colors. The very hot
pods of the Aji Verde are small, elongated and
pointed, with medium flesh, measuring 2 to 3
inches long and 1/2 inch across. This variety is
not commercially grown, but can be found
growing in backyards or on farms cultivating
a few plants. The Aji Verde is eaten fresh with
foods and to make sauces. (Heat scale: 8)
Rocoto (Capsicum pubescens)
Rocotos are widely grown in the Peruvian
Andes. The green pods of the Rocoto ripen to
a yellow or red, and are rounded in shape. The
Continued on page 4.
P G & ~ Ajf ChUa, santhdfmm p
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color. The Aji Puncomucha is not comrnercidly
grown, but is grown mostly in backyards or
harvested from wild plants. This aji can be
found only in local farmers' markets and is
eaten fresh with foods or used as an ingredient
in preparing all types of dishes. (Heat scale: 8)
AjS Verde
pods measure about 2 1/2 inches long and about
11/2 inches in diameter. Rocotos are thickfleshed with a fruity taste and tropical berry
overtones. The high pungency gives them the
regional expressions of h n h wuertos ("raising
the dead") and @ngo huanucM rgringa Wer").
Rocotos have a characteristic flavor only found in
the real cuisine of the southern city of Arequipa,
home of Rocotos. There is a popular belief that
the heat of Rocotos attacks the taste buds but is
inoffensive to the digestive tract, consequently
known to impart a "cold heat." The Rocoto is
primarily used in salsas, sauces, and.ceviches. '
(Heat scale: 9)
Aji Pucomucho
Aji Charapa (Capsicum chime)
Aji Charapa is wild variety of aji found in the
northern region of the Peruvian jungle, close to
the city of'Iquitos. In this area, the people are
called "charapas," thus, the name of the Aji
Charapa is derived from their name. The Aji
Charapa is very small with a spherical shape
measuring a maximum 1/4 in diameter. The
very hot pods are thin-fleshed and mature into
a red and yellow color. This variety is not
grown commercially, but mostly in backyards
or is harvested from wild plants. The Aji
Charapa is eaten fresh with foods or used as an
ingredient in preparing all types of dishes.
(Heat scale: 8) W
Aji Pucomucho (Capsicum chime)
Aji Pucomucho, a wild aji, has an original
and native name that has no meaning nor translation and is found in the Peruvian jungle, central region, and Chanchamayo and Villa Rica
valleys. This variety is a small, thin, elongated
and pointed aji which matures to a bright yellow
Meet the CPI Board (Part I)
Louis Biad is the owner of the Biad Chile Company, a red chile and paprika dehydrator company that has been in Lag Cruces, N.M., for about
30 years. The company's products are used in a
variety of ways, such as in oleoresin, spices, different chile blends, breads, and sauces. Biad believes that "the Chile Pepper Institute has provided an invaluable service for many consumers, industry producers, farmers, and companies." He creditxi the New Mexico Chile Conference as being instrumental in helping to make(p*
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the Chile Pepper Institute's exhibit at the New
Mexico Farm and Ranch Heritage Museum a
reality.
Emma Jean Cervantes has owned Cervantes
Enterprises, Inc. and Cervantes Agribusiness
La Mesa, N.M., for 20 years. m e business is a
family consortium that includes her son
and daughter Kristina. The chile
plant specializes in hot sauce that
internationally. Cervantes is very involved in
civic and community projects. In 1993, she was
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food industry and the Chile Pepper Institutecan
help educate and inform them in m y different areas. Ocur exhibit at the New Mexico Farm
and Ranch Her;itage Musgum'willhelp reach all
of those people."
Pad Boslmd, CPI director, stated that "without the volunteer efforts and support of the
board, the Chile Pepper Institute would not be
the program that it is today. Each member
brings his or her own unique experience and
perspective to form an enthusiastic, innovative,
and supportive Board of Directors."
Editor s note: Other members of the CPI Board
of Directors will be profiled in the next issue qf the
CPZ newsktter. w
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recognized as one of the "Outstanding New
Mexico Business Women." New Mexico State
University's College of Agriculture and Home
Economics honored Cervantes with the "Agriculturist of Mstinction Award" in 1996. Future
* endeavors for Cervantes include promoting -+ 1
chile through the Chile Pepper Institute.
Dave DeWitt is one of New Mexico's most -.
'
renowned chile heads. Involved in the fiery
foods industry for just over a decade, DeWitt is i
co-founder of the Chile Pepper Institute and j
editor of the Fiery Foods Magazine. According to ' '
DeWitt, the growth of the industry and the interest in the Chile Pepper Institute has been
phenomenal. He stated that, "many people
have yet to experience the chile pepper and fiery
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Weed or Vegetable?
Recently, Frederick Teague, a CPI member,
wrote us cursing the purslane weed (Portulaca
oleracea) that was taking over his chile garden.
As gardeners we can sympathize with Mr.
Teague, but perhaps we can offer one solution.
The Latin word, "oleracea" means edible, which
means that purslane is an edible plant. Since ancient times, purslane has been used as a vegetable. It's believed that purslane origmally came
from Iran or India.
Purslane is a popular vegetable in France and
is cultivated commercially in Egypt and Sudan.
This vegetable can be eaten raw or cooked as
greens and tastes somewhat like watercress or
spinach. Gene Lopez, a farm assistant at New
Mexico State University's Fabian Garcia Horticulture Center, provided us with the following '
recipe he obtained from his mother, Consuela,
and his nmhew. Albert Benavidez. So if mrslane
is -Ql.sing 6ver your gardwLyre-w~dend that
instead of cursing this "weed," you try this
recipe favorite and enjoy this wonderful vegetable!
Verdulagas / Purslane
2 hands-full of fresh purslane leaves removed from stems
1 / 2 medium onion--diced
1/ 2 cup diced tomatoes, fresh or canned
1/2 cup diced fresh jalapefios
1/2 tablespoon vegetable oil
Add washed and drained purslane leaves to
boiling water with a dash of salt. Let boil for
five minutes, drain, and set aside. In a separate
pan, sautb onions with vegetable oil, add
jalapefios, and tomatoes. Sautb for 1minute;
add purslane. Simmer for 10 minutes, season to
taste. W
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To order back issues of the Chile Pepper Institute Newsletter,
contact The Chile Pepper Institute, NMSU, Box 30003,
Dept qQ, Las Cruces, NM 88003.
Volume VI, Number 3, Fall 1997
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C A P S I C U M
In Memorium
The Chile Pepper Institute
has lost a good friend and enthusiastic supporter with the
death of Martin Steinman.
Steinrnan passed away on
September 10 at his home following a long-term illness.
As CEO and president of
Border Foods, the world's ,
largest processor of chile and
jalapefios and president of the
New Mexico Food Processors
Association, Ste'~nmancontributed iinmeasurably to the
develovment of the chile industry'in New Mexico. Steve
Moore, vice president of sales
at Border Foods, described
Steinman as a "visionary who
was unafraid of taking risks
and probably one of the most
respected individuals in this
business.
Paul Bosland, CPI director,
reflected on Steinman's contributions stating, "Martin's
contributions to the Chile
Pepper Institute were many.
Martin and Lilian Steinman
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He was one of its staunchest
supporters, contributing both
time and money. He served
on the CPI Board of Directors
since its inception and early
this year he and his wife,
Lilian, contributed $10,000 to
the CPI-the largest individual
endowment ever made to the
organization."
Memorial contributions
may be made to the Chabad
Children's Fund, P.O. Box
30851, Albuquerque, NM
87190.
N E W S
Check Out Our New Look
Included in this issue of'
your newsletter is one of our
new and improved Chile Pepper Institute brochures. We
have arranged information in
the brochure to make it easier
to follow and read. We also
have given the brochure a new
look with brighter pictures
and colors.
Don't hesitate to let a chileloving friend borrow it!
Patent Medicines with
Cayenne
Doil't Try This at Home
The scientificjournal Toxicon
reported that drinking a quart
and a half of Louisiana-style
hot sauce will cause death by
respiratory failure if your
body weight is less than 140
pounds.
In 1909 and again in 1912,
the British Medical Association
published two volumes concerning "secret remediesn-the
classic patent medicines. The
association performed chemical analysis of these remedies,
and found that many of them
contained high quantities of
capsicum or cayenne.
For example, the Home Doctor Backache and Kidney Pills
promised to "induce the kidneys to perform their proper
functions." They contained 20
percent chile powder along
with oil of juniper, potassium
nitrate, magnesia, sugar, and
soap.
Towle's Pennyroyal and
Steel Pills contained an astonishing 43 percent chile powder,
while Levasco ("The Great Indian Gout and Rheumatic
Cure") was a topical treatment. It guaranteed: "Earache
cured in 2 minutes, toothache
cured in 2 minutes, gout cured
in a-few hows."_Itcontained
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three
of oleoresin capiosernary, eucalyptus, and
.-, :
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sicum
along
with
camphor,
camphor. Golden Fire Feated
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oil of lavender, oil of rose- ,,
not only rheumatism but also
- mary, and soap.
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gout, neuralgia, sprains,
Mother Siegel's Curative , - asthma, bronchitis, enlarged
Syrup contained tincture of
joints, and tumors. It was both
capsicum, along with dilute
rubbed on the throat and
hydrochloric acid, aloe, and
gargled with water as a cure
for sore throat and diphtheria,
water. It was touted as "a cure
for impurities in the blood" as
and it was recommended for
toothache as well.
well as "a .curefor dyspepsia
Source: "Peppm Profile: Cayand liver complaints." The
advertising copy, which igenne," by Dave DeWitt, wia the
nored the tincture of capsiFiey Foods web site at htfp://
cum, read: "So let's get rid of
www.fiery-foods.com
the smoke by putting out the
fire, and purify our blood
with Mother Siegel's Syrup,
which will sweep away the
poisons and make us healthy
and strong."
Box's Pills and Golden Fire
were ills and a liniment that
were h e n together "in severe cases of rheumatism."
The pills contained a large
We finally have
quantity of chile powder along
members in 50 states.
with powdered gentian, flour,
aloe, and soap. The liniment
Thanks to all of you for
contained a decoction of capspreading the word.
sicum plus the oils of amber,
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Volume VI, Number 3, Fall 1997
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Complete Your Peppati. .
U b r a ~ y ;,
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Now available from the
Chile Pepper Institute is the
much-sought-after Peppers of
the World and The Pepper Garden by Dave DeWitt and Paul
Bosland. If you're interested
in receiving a copy of one of
these books, please contact
Danise at the Institute at (505)
646-3028 or e-mail your request to [email protected].
The books sell for $20 each.
Don't Lose Your News
Memberships will be expiring in December 1997. Check
your mailing label for your
membership expiration date.
.Renew
. by mailing the form
below.
Don't miss out on the next
issue of The Chile P m e r I~lstitufe Newsletter!
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Feeling Sick? Add a Little Spice
Herbs and spices flavor and tenderize meat,
but they also serve a more evolutionary significant purpose-killing contaminating bacteria,
claims Paul Sherman, an evolutionary biologist
at Comell University in Ithaca, New York.
Sherman and colleague, Jennifer Billing, looked
at patterns of spice use in 4,164 traditionalmeat
recipes from 31 countries. Onion, black and white
pepper, garlic, lemon juice, chiles, and ginger
proved among the most popular. When they
combed the literature to determine what herbs
and spices had been shown to have antibacterial
effects, they found that many are "really powerful antibiotics," Sherman reported last month at
the annual meeting of the Animal Behavior Society in College Park, Maryland.
Garlic, onion, allspice, and oregano killed all
the bacteria they were tested against including
Salmonella and Staphylococcus. Others, such as
hot peppers, destroyed at least 75 percent of
their bacterial targets.
The researchers say their case is bolstered by
d the
the fad that the hotter the c l j m a t ~ thus
more danger of food spoilage-the more spices
are used in a cuisine. Conversely, some spices
low in antibiotic properties, such as celery seed,
are not much used in southern cuisines.
"Most people think the only reason we use
spices is because of the taste, but [Sherman] has
gone beyond that," comments Zuleyma TangMartinez, an ethologist at the University of Missouri, St. Louis,
Source: Science Magazine, Vol. 277, July 18,
1997. W
The Chile Pepper Institute
NMSU, Box 30003, MSC 3Q
Las Cruces, NM 88003
(505) 646-3028
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A Non-Profit, !nternationpl Organization Devoted ta the Study of Capsicums
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