5750 FreeGo Workshop Manual

Transcription

5750 FreeGo Workshop Manual
Workshop
Manual
ELECTRIC BIKES
www.FreeGoElectricBikes.com
ELECTRIC BIKES
Workshop Manual
Contents
1. Tools required and Assembly guide.
2
2.
Brakes.
3.
Drive train.
4.
Wheels.
5.
Handle bars.
6.
Electrics.
7.
Torque settings.
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Tools Required
Metric Allen Key Set.
Pliers both flat and needle nose.
Cable Cutters.
Screwdrivers, large and small, flat and crosshead.
Set of metric combination spanners 8mm to 18mm
Pedal spanners
Chain separation tool
Crank removal tool
Bottom bracket removal tool
Headset spanners
Freewheel removal tool
Spoke key
Heat gun
Metric socket set
Heat shrink sleeving
Multi meter
Soldering iron
Wire cutters
Wire strippers
Impact driver
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1.1 Workshop assembly guide
Open the box, You will find one box of parts, disassembled front wheel, mudguard
and a saddle fitted to its post.
1. Fit the adjustable stem with handlebars. Insert the stem into the front forks to
the position of “MINIMUM INSERTION “ mark.
2. Fit the front wheel:
Remove the packing bubble wrap or foam. Position the wheel in the middle of the
suspension. Please note that the front brake disc must be put in the middle of the
pads in the caliper body. See below
The Freego Folding bike and Hawk selection have similar assembly requirements.
These will also need to have the front brake blocks moved in order to install the
front wheel. See section 2.2 for further instruction.
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Keep the wheel in the middle of the suspension.
3. Adjust the handlebars, Loosen the Bolt 1,adjust the handlebars to an adequate
the position.
Then Tighten the
QUILL BOLT AND FIX
THE STEM.
4. Attach the rear rack
Move the two screws on the rack, No 1 and No 2, to adjust the rack into the right
position. Then tighten them, fit the screws the No 3 and No 4 and tighten.
Adjust the handle bars
to the correct height.
5. Fit the front light to the suspension bracket, and connect the front light wires.
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Connect the wire to
the light in this way.
6. Insert the saddle post into the frame, then tighten the screw to fix the post.
7. Using grease on the threads, screw the two pedals into the pedal arms.
Note each pedal is handed L and R.
After finishing all of the above, check the bike completely again to ensure
everything has been installed correctly.
1) Turn the key on the battery, turn the throttle to check whether the motor is
working.
2) Tighten the brake grips, to check whether the power cut-off system is normal;
make sure the brakes work well.
3) Turn the crank to check that the speed sensor works normally, and to check
that the pedal assist control operates normally.
4) Pull the brake levers to check whether the front and rear brakes work well.
5) Check all the nuts , bolts and spokes for tightness.
6) Set tyre pressures to 55psi.
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2. Brakes
2.1 How to replace brake pads
2.2 How to replace brake blocks
2.3 How to adjust brake pads
2.4 How to adjust brake blocks
2.5 How to adjust brake cables on the road
2.6 Brake problem diagnosis flow chart
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2.1 How to Replace Brake Pads
Fig. 2.1
1.With fingers turn the thumb screw all the way in, see top right arrow.
2.With Allen key loosen the cable pinch bolt, bottom right arrow.
3.Remove calliper mount plate bolts, see both left arrows.
Pull the brake calliper free from the
disc. Both brake pads are held in
place with small magnets built into
the calliper. The pads can now be
slipped out from the housing and
replaced.
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2.2 How to replace brake blocks
Fig. 2.2.1
Fig. 2.2.2
1. Loosen brake cable pinch bolt.
2. Un-hook the cable securing arm.
3. Unscrew the brake block from the pivot arm.
Fig. 2.2.3
Fig. 2.2.4
1. Now the replacement blocks can be installed.
2. Hold the pivot arms in place whilst tightening the cable pinch bolt.
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2.3 How to Adjust Brake Pads
Fig. 2.3.1
With the brake cable pinch bolt loosened off.
1. Loosen the calliper horizontal adjusting screws, see fig. 2.3.1
2. Align the calliper so that the disc is centrally located between the two brake
pads.
Fig. 2.3.2
3. Now adjust the inner pads forward so that it just touches the disc. See fig. 2.3.2
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2.3 Continued
Fig. 2.3.3
4. With the inner pads touching the disc. Now bring the outer pad in, setting it to
lightly touch the disc.
5. With the cable pinch bolt tight, pull the brake lever in and retighten both the
horizontal adjustment screws see fig. 2.3.2.
6. Finally if the brake pads bind on the disc. Turn the inner pad adjuster ¼ turn
back. This should free the wheels movement.
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2.4 How to adjust the brake blocks
1. Once the replacement blocks are in place the block to rim clearance can be
adjusted using the small cross head screws.
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2.5 How to adjust the brake cable tension on the road.
1. Unscrew the tensioning nut. This will tighten the inner cable. Once you are
happy with the feel of the brake lever, tighten the second nut down to hold in
place.
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2.6 Brake diagnostic flow chart
Are the brakes effective?
Yes
No
Are the brakes noisy?
Strip clean and adjust.
No
Yes
No further action
Remove and inspect both brake pads or blocks to confirm wear. Replace if
necessary.
1. If pads and discs are still noisy.
Rub disc and pads with fine sand paper then wipe with alcohol to remove any
surface deposits.
2. If brake blocks and rims are noisy:
Bring the leading edge of the blocks in to the rim by 3mm. As the brakes are
applied the tolerances will close and the oscillation noise will stop. If the brake
blocks are old the rubber can harden so it is advisable to replace these hardened
blocks to attain an improved brake.
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3. Drive Train
3.1 How to adjust the derailleur
3.2 How to remove the drive chain
3.3 How to remove the freewheel
3.4 How to remove the pedal arms
3.5 How to remove the pedals
3.6 How to replace the gear cable
3.7 How to replace the crank bearings
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3.1 How to adjust the derailleur
Fig. 3.1.
Fig. 3.1.2
1.Loosen the gear cable pinch nut see.fig. 3.1.1
2.Check the movement of the derailleur's range
This is achieved by turning the pedals and pushing the derailleur at the same time.
fig. 3.1.2
Fig. 3.1.3
Fig. 3.1.4
1.If the range requires adjustment this can be done by screwing in or out the high
(right) and low (left) range screws. See fig. 3.1.3
2.Reattach the gear cable and tighten the fine trim of the cable with the thumb
screw at the back. see. fig 3.1.4
Note: On occasion the derailleur protection bar can be bent into the derailleur
itself. This will need to be bent back or replaced in order for the full range of gears
to be achieved.
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3.2 How to remove the drive chain
Fig 3.2.1
This requires a chain press tool. It is strongly advisable to follow the tool
manufacturer's guide for correct application and use.
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3.3 How to remove the free wheel
1. Follow back wheel removal procedure 4.2
2. With back wheel out of the bike. Place the standard freewheel removal tool in a
bench vice.
3. Thread the motor wiring cable threw the tool, and lower the wheel down locating
the free wheel into the tool held in the vice.
Now turn the rim anticlockwise. This will loosen the freewheel from the hub.
Installation of the freewheel
To install
Freewheel removal tool
TL-FW30
To disassemble
Tightening torque:
30 N-m (260 in. lbs.)
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3.4 How to remove the pedal arms.
Fig. 3.4.1
Fig. 3.4.2
1. With a flat screwdriver, remove the plastic cover for the 14mm pedal arm bolt.
2. Using a 14mm socket unscrew the arm bolt.
Fig. 3.4.3
Fig. 3.4.4
3. Install the pedal arm puller and proceed to press the arm free from the axle.
See fig. 3.4.4
Fig. 3.4.5
Fig.3.4.6
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3.5 How to remove the pedals
Fig. 3.5.1
1. Using a pedal spanner note that the pedals have handed threads.
2. The right side pedal turns anticlockwise.
3. The left clockwise.
Note: It is advisable that when installing pedals grease is applied to the threads.
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3.6 How to replace the gear cable.
1. Loosen the cable pinch bolt on the derailleur. Pull
the cable free from the derailleur observing its route.
2. Moving the gear selector to gear 1, pull the cable through the housing to
remove.
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3.7 How to replace the crank bearing
Fig. 3.7.1
Fig. 3.7.2
Fig. 3.7.3
Fig. 3.7.4
1. Remove both pedal arms. See 3.4
2. Remove the left side bottom bracket cup first.
Note right handed thread.
3. Then remove right side, note left handed thread, see. Fig. 3.7.4 for the correct
order of plates secured.
4. Grease the new bearing's threads before installing.
5. Upon reassembly ensure pedal assist magnetic disc has been reinstalled in the
correct rotation and that the distance between the pedal assist sensor is as close
as possible. See fig. 3.4.6
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4. Wheels
4.1 How to remove the front wheel
4.2 How to remove the back wheel
4.3 How to replace a tire
4.4 How to repair a puncture
4.5 How to replace a spoke
4.6 How to remove the hub motor
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4.1 How to remove the front wheel.
With Disc Brake
1. Secure the bike ensuring that once the front wheel has been removed the bike
remains stable, note if you have decided to turn the bike over to perform this job it
is advisable to have cardboard ready to protect the handle bar controls and saddle
from being damaged.
2. Loosen the quick release lever, then unscrew 3 or 4 turns this will allow the
wheel to drop out or be lifted free from the front forks.
With V Brakes
1. Secure the bike ensuring that once the front wheel has been removed the bike
remains stable, note if you have decided to turn the bike over to perform this job it
is advisable to have cardboard ready to protect the handle bar controls and saddle
from being damaged.
2. Loosen the brake cable pinch bolt, see fig. 2.2.1
the brake arms will now be free from the wheel.
3. Release the quick release lever, then unscrew 3 or 4
Turns this will allow the wheel to drop out or be lifted free from the front forks.
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4.2 How to remove the back wheel
Fig. 4.2.1
Fig. 4.2.2
1.Secure the cycle so that when the back wheel is removed it remains stable. If
you choose to turn the bike upside down have protective cardboard at the ready
for the handle bars and saddle.
2.Unplug the hub motor inline plug. Fig. 4.2.1
3.Using an 18mm spanner unscrew the nuts on both sides of the wheel.
Note: The hub motors axle has a slot cut in one side allowing the wire to be fed
downwards. This has been designed to protect the wire if the bike falls over.
It is also important to observe the order and location of the various washers used
to hold the wheel in place. As these washers also add resistance to the rotational
torque of the motor. See Fig. 4.2.3., 4.2.4.
Fig. 4.2.3
Fig. 4.2.4
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4.3 How to replace a Tyre
Fig. 4.3.1
Fig. 4.3.2
1. Deflate the inner tube by pressing or removing the valve with a valve key,
see Fig.4.3.1
2. Using tyre levers on one side lift the tyres bead from the rim.
3. Work the free bead around the rim. Remove the inner tube. Then pull the
remaining tyre bead free from the rim. See. Fig. 4.3.3
Fig. 4.3.3
Fig. 4.3.4
4. To reinstall, pump a small amount of air into the tube. So that it will hold its own
shape.
Fig. 4.3.5
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Fig. 4.3.6
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4.3 Continued
5. Ensure the direction of the tyre is correct to the wheel.
Note: some tyres are not directional. See Fig.4.3.6
Fig. 4.3.7
Fig. 4.3.8
6. Locate the valve into the hole in the rim. Then install its valve cap, this will
ensure it remains in its location.
Fig. 4.3.9
7. Working from the valve pull the outer tyre casing back onto the rim. Avoid using
the tyre levers to do this, as it is possible to pinch the inner tube in the process.
8. Confirm tyre bead is located inside the rim prior to re-inflating the tyre to the
recommended pressure indicated on the casings side wall.
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4.4 How to repair a puncture.
1. Observing the wheel and tyre removal procedures listed in this chapter remove
the deflated inner tube.
2. Once the tube is out using the valve as a guide check the tyre casing for foreign
objects that might have caused the deflation.
3. Re-inflate the tube and quickly feel for escaping air by holding it closely to your
mouth. If this is not successful, by immersing the tube in a bowl of water the air
leak will be found quickly.
4. Mark the hole on the inner tube with a crayon.
5. Once deflated scuff the tube around the hole with sand paper. This will key the
rubber, allowing the patch to bond with the glue and the tube for a successful
repair.
6. Choose a suitably sized patch for the repair.
7. Smear the area for the patch with vulcanizing glue.
It is important at this point to wait for the glue to set and become tacky.
8. Peel the protective film off the selected patch and
apply.
9. Wait 2 minutes for the glue to set and re inflate the
tube to confirm the successful repair.
10. Reinstall the tube in wheel and reinstall in the bike reversing the removal
procedure.
Tip It may be helpful to partially inflate tube before you place it in the tyre as this
will prevent pinching
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4.5 How to replace a spoke
1. It is not necessary to remove the wheel or tyre to replace a spoke but it might be
easier with wheel and tire removed. If you have decided to remove these please
refer to the other sections in this chapter.
2. To replace a broken spoke it will first be necessary to remove the old one with
its nipple.
3. Once the bottom of the spoke has been unthreaded from the hub the top end of
the spoke will need to be removed. To do this,
4. Deflate the tyre and push the casing with inner tube to one side lift up the tyre
tape with a small screw driver and remove the remains of the old spoke.
5. Thread the new spoke into place. Note: It will be necessary to flex and lightly
bent the new spoke into place.
6. Using a second spoke or the remains of the old one screw the new spoke nipple
backwards on to a `feeder spoke` this will act to guide the new nipple into place,
through the double walled rim.
7. Once in place begin to screw the new nipple onto the new spoke. Once it has
started on the thread of the new spoke hold it in place with a spoke key and
unscrew the `feeder spoke`.
8. Tighten the new spoke, and re inflate the tyre.
9. To finish, spin the wheel looking for side movement that can be adjusted by
truing the rim in the frame.
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4.6 How to remove and refit the rear hub motor
1. Follow the instruction to remove the rear wheel.See.4.2 and Freewheel. See 3.3
2. Using a bench vice with soft jaws hold the wheel in place with the cross headed
screws facing up wards.
3. The motor screws will be very tight. It may be necessary to use an impact driver
with size#3 Phillips bit to loosen them.
4. Loosen all the screws evenly and remove. Fig4.6.6
5. The magnets inside the hub are Very Strong this will make the motor stiff to
remove.
6. Remove the locknut and spacer from the non drive side of the wheel.
7. Refit the axle nut to protect the threads Fig.4.6.7, then using a rubber mallet
knock the hub motor free. Fig.4.6.8
8. When fitting the motor lightly grease the planetary gears and take care to refit
spacer washer on the inside from the original motor. Fig.4.6.13, Fig.4.6.10
9. Refit motor plate to hub casing, spacer and locknut finger tight. Fig.4.6.14
10. Reassemble wheel fittings to original order and after refitting wheel to bike,
check wheel is free to rotate and adjust brakes and gears to suit.
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4.6 Continued.
Fig. 4.6.1
Inline wheel
plug.
Fig. 4.6.2
Inline wheel plug
disconnected.
Fig. 4.6.3
Note the order
and direction of
the washers.
Fig. 4.6.4
Drive side
washer order.
Fig. 4.6.5
Fig. 4.6.6
The order that the
Removing the
spacers are removed motorbolts.
in from the freewheel.
Note the spacer
shim behind the
freewheel.
Fig. 4.6.7
Protecting the axle
threads from damage
using its nut.
Fig. 4.6.8
Knocking the motor
free using a rubber
mallet.
Fig. 4.6.9
The motor now
free. Remove the
protecting nut and
remove the motor
fully.
Fig. 4.6.11
Knocking the outer
plate free from the
motor in the vice.
Fig. 4.6.12
Fig. 4.6.10
Carefully remove
the internal
spacer shim.
Fig. 4.6.13
White grease applied to
planetary gears.
Fig. 4.6.14
Spacer and torque nut being applied
to hold the motor in place.
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5. Handle Bars
5.1 How to remove the grips
5.2 How to remove the throttle
5.3 How to remove the gear change lever
5.4 How to remove the power indicator
5.5 How to remove a brake lever
5.6 How to remove the handle bars
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5.1 How to remove the handle bar grips
1. Work the tip of a long flat bladed screw driver under the end of the handle bar
grip.
2. Then with a spray bottle containing dish soap and water spray a small amount
into the grip.
3. Remove the screwdriver and rotate the grip back a forth working it off the bar.
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5.2 How to remove the throttle
1. Remove the handle bar grip following the instructions. See 5.1. Using a cross
headed screw driver unscrew the black connector box in front of the handle bars
from its securing bracket.
2. Unscrew its backing plate.
3. Following the throttle cable into box, disconnect from loom.
4. Using a 3mm allen key turn the grub screw 2 turns anticlockwise. The throttle
can now be slid off the end on the bars.
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5.3 How to remove the gear selector
1. Loosen the gear cable pinch bolt on the derailleur.
2. Pull the gear cable free from the pinch bolt and noting its route threw the bike
pull the inner cable out of the gear selector.
Note: It may be necessary to replace the inner gear cable if it has frayed as it will
very difficult to thread it back into place.
3. Removed the handle bar grip.
4. Loosen the pinch bolt and slide the brake lever free from the bars.
5. Loosen the pinch bolt under the gear selector.
6. Side the selector free from the bars.
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5.4 How to remove the power indicator
1. Unscrew the black block connector from its mounting bracket under the handle
bars.
2. Unscrew the connector plate screws and following the wire from the power
controller unplug from the loom.
3. Remove the handle bar grip.
4. Loosen the brake lever pinch bolt, slide the lever free from the bars.
5. Loosen the power indicator pinch bolt and slide the indicator free from the bars.
Power indicator pinch bolt
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Power indicator location in
junction box
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5.5 How to remove the brake levers
1. Loosen the pinch bolt at the end of the brake cable.
2. Screw the cable tensioning thumb adjuster all the way in. Then unscrew the
tensioner ½ a turn lining up the lock screws cut out and the thumb screws cut out
with the slot in the brake levers housing.
3. Pull the brake lever in and with your other hand pull the outer casing away from
the lever.
Note, It may be necessary to remove the grips to perform this operation.
4. Pull the now free cable away from the housing and disconnect it from the lever.
5. Unscrew the black block connector under the handle bars from its securing
bracket.
6. Unscrew the block connectors cover plate and following the wire from the brake
lever unplug it from the loom.
7. Remove the bar end grip.
8. Loosen the brake lever pinch bolt and slide the lever free from the bars.
Wiring loom Block connector
Brake lever cut off wire
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6 Electrics
6.1 How to condition a new battery
6.2 How to replace the fuses in the battery
6.3 How to remove the control module
6.4 How to remove the wiring harness
6.5 Electrical diagnostic flow chart
6.6 Schematic wiring diagram
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Junction box connections
From left to right, the wire connections inside the junction box are;
1. Right brake lever (power) cut-off wire.
2. Throttle wire.
3. Power indication wire.
4. Left brake lever (power) cut-off wire.
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6.1 How to condition a new battery
All FreeGo lithium ion batteries have a built in BMS (battery management system)
this controls how each lithium cell is charged and discharged.
Once set up the battery will operate at optimum efficiency.
1. Charge the new battery fully for approximately 6hrs.
2. Fully discharge the battery and as soon a possible recharge fully.
3. Perform this cycle 3 times. Once performed partial and top up charges can be
done without affecting battery performance.
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6.2 How to change the fuses in a battery
There are two fuses in each battery.
Both 10Ah batteries and 16Ah batteries use the same fuses as 30Amp and a
5Amp.
The 30Amp fuse controls the main output power supply from the battery to bike.
The 5Amp fuse protects the battery from excessive charge voltage.
1. With the key switched off and removed each fuse can be unscrewed from the
side of the battery casing.
2. Test using an Ohm meter and replaced if necessary.
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6.3 How to remove the control module
1. Switch off and remove the battery.
2. Unscrew and remove the cover plate located on the left hand side under the
battery plate.
3. There isn't much space. But it is very important not to pull wiring too hard, as
this can cause damage to the loom and connections and wires.
4. Using needle nose pliers grip the side of the controller and carefully pull and
work the controller free from the controller box.
Note: It may be useful to mark each plug and/or photograph the connections using
a mobile phone or camera before disconnection. Also note that not all wires are
used in the controller.
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6.4 How to remove the wiring loom
1. Remove the controller from its housing. Disconnect the loom.
2. Unscrew the black block connector from its mounting under the handle bars.
3. Remove the block connectors cover.
4. Unplug the loom from the handle bar controls.
5. Using string taped to the loom or the replacement plugged into the old loom.
Gently pull the wiring loom through the frame and out of the control box housing.
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6.5 Electrical trouble shooting
The following chart attempts to aid identifying problems that can arise. It does not
answer all scenarios but it is meant to give an idea of where to look given certain
symptoms.
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Symptom
Possible Cause
Remedy
1. No Power at the motor
and no battery lights on
the indicator.
1) Flat Battery
2) Battery fuse has been burnt
3) The power cable to the
controller is loosen
4) Connector pins under the
battery not in contact to battery
poles.
1) Charge the battery
2) Change the fuse
3) Connect the power cable
4) Adjust the battery
connection pins.
2. No power on the motor
(with battery lights on the
indication )
1) Problem on the the power
cable to the controller
2) PAS sensor fault
3) Problem on controller
4) Brake Cut Off Sensor
5) Throttle fault
6) Problem on Motor Wheel power
connection in the controller box
7) Wire broken to the motor from
controller
8) Faulty motor wheel.
1) Check the power cable
2) Check the PAS sensor,
change it.
3) Check the controller,
change it
4) Replace the brake level
5) Replace the throttle
6) Check the connection in the
controller
7) Check the wires to the motor,
change or repair it if it is burnt
8) replace the motor
3. Low range
1) Battery is not charged fully
2) The battery has been used for
long time
3) Problem with a battery cell
4) Excessive use of throttle
1) Charge the battery fully
2) Replace with a new battery
3) Stop using the throttle as
much
4. Motor wheel is noisy
and sluggish
1) Motor wire inside the controller
loose.
2) Loose connection to the motor
3) Faulty connection in the motor
1) Check the wire connection
inside the controller
2) Check the wire to the motor
3) Replace the motor
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Symptom
Possible Cause
Remedy
5. The battery cannot be
charged
1) The charger plug to the battery
is loose.
2) The power wire inside the
battery is faulty
3) The charger is bad
4) The charger fuse has been
burnt
1) Check the connection to the
battery charging plug.
2) Replace the battery
3) Replace the charger
4) Replace the 5Amp charge
fuse
6. Throttle does not work
1) The voltage of the battery is
too low.
2) The throttle wire connection
is faulty.
3) The throttle itself is defective.
1) Charge the battery fully.
2) Check the wires and
connections.
3) Change the throttle
7. Battery indicator lights
“Flicker” and motor
cuts in and out
(Stutters)
1) Either one of the two contacts
of the battery connection may
be making pore contact when
battery is locked onto bike.
2) Battery may not be “Locked
Down” correctly on bike
3) Lead has become disconnected
inside battery pack.
1) Lubricate and work free if
not springing up correctly then
replace part
2) Check battery cannot be
pulled off bike when left hand
lock is in “Locked” position
3) Split pack and re-connect.
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7. Torque Values
Handlebar and stem
Stem and front fork
Seat post and seat
20~25Nm
Front wheel
25~30Nm
Rear wheel
35~40Nm
Chain wheel
30~35Nm
Brake lever
5~7 Nm
Brake cable
Brake calliper
Derailleur
6~10Nm
5mm 4~6Nm
10mm 7~10Nm
Gear selector
2~3Nm
Mudguard Screw
4~6Nm
Chainguard Screw
4~6Nm
Stand
18~20Nm
Front Basket
5~7Nm
Bell
4~6Nm
Water bottle bracket
3~5Nm
Lights
5~7Nm
Spokes
145~155Nm
Bottom Bracket
44
THE BEST ELECTRIC BIKES BY FAR!
58Nm
ELECTRIC BIKES
FreeGo Electric Bikes
Freego Electric Bikes Ltd, 3 St Denys Road, Portswood, Southampton, Hampshire SO17 2GN
Tel: 0800 077 8711
www.FreeGoElectricBikes.com
THE BEST ELECTRIC BIKES BY FAR!