Fresh Start

THE PRINCE
AND THE
PREPPY
PRINCE CHARLES
ENTERTAINED
A SLEW OF
DESIGNERS,
INCLUDING
TOMMY
HILFIGER, IN
LONDON. PAGE 9
WWD
FRIDAY, JUNE 15, 2012 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY
BONO
TURNS
OUT
FOR
WIFE ALI
HEWSON’S
NUDE
PAGE 6
EURO-ZONE CRISIS
Italian Fashion World
Battles Nation’s Woes
By LUISA ZARGANI
MILAN — Contagion.
Usually more associated with medical papers, the
term is now a recurring one in discussing the European
economy — from Greece to Spain and now to Italy.
Sandwiched between Spain’s bailout plan, proposed
last weekend, and the crisis in Greece, Italy is increasingly under scrutiny, perceived as being at risk of catching the “euro bug.”
Countries are desperate not to be lumped into those
described as “problem economies,” even as the cost of
borrowing leaped in both Spain and Italy on Thursday.
U.K. Chancellor of the Exchequer George Osborne
revealed plans Thursday to increase liquidity in the
British economy by injecting up to 5 billion pounds, or
$7.2 billion, a month into the financial system. There
also were reports that European financial ministers are
prepared to take action if the Greek elections have a
significant impact on the financial markets.
Italy is a major concern, however, given that it is the
euro zone’s third-largest economy. The country has seen a
long economic slide — one that technocrat Prime Minister
Mario Monti is desperately trying to reverse with a regimen of fiscal austerity. One hopeful note for Italy is that
its economy is much more export-focused than Spain’s,
although executives admitted that firms dependent on the
domestic market face major issues of survival.
“The euro situation in Italy is no worse than in other
countries that pretend they are in better shape, but our
situation is portrayed in a worse manner,” said Tod’s SpA
chief Diego Della Valle during the fourth Luxury Summit
here, organized by Il Sole 24 Ore daily, on Thursday.
On the sidelines of the conference, Brunello Cucinelli
pointed to another issue dogging the euro zone: “When
we created the euro, we were aware that we had a new
currency, but the social, economic and fiscal balance was
not there, and each country has its own culture.”
Cucinelli’s luxury firm successfully went public in
April, and the entrepreneur admitted he was concerned
investors would fear channeling their money into Italy.
SEE PAGE 12
Vans’ Apparel Push
By ARNOLD J. KARR
Fresh Start
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have a lot of new beginnings on their hands
these days. Their two classic fragrances from the early Nineties — Dolce & Gabbana
Pour Femme and Dolce & Gabbana Pour Homme — are making a comeback with a
reintroduction of the men’s and a new eau de parfum for the women’s brand. Then it’s on
to a new fashion introduction: Dolce & Gabbana’s first children’s wear collection. “It’s a
miniature version of our signature line,” Gabbana explained. For more, see page 5.
PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE. STYLED BY AMY LOMACCHIO
VF CORP. HAS APPAREL on the hook for more than a
quarter of the $1 billion in growth it’s planning in the
next five years for Vans, the “off the wall” skateboard
footwear brand it acquired eight years ago.
At a presentation for analysts at its House of Vans
store in Brooklyn, N.Y., Thursday afternoon, VF executives said Vans, which joined The North Face
and the recently acquired Timberland among the
billion-dollar brands in its dominant outdoor and action sports coalition last year, is budgeted to hit $2.2
billion in sales by the end of 2016 from $1.2 billion
last year. That represents a compound annual growth
rate, or CAGR, of 13 percent.
But it expects its apparel business to accelerate
even faster and in fact more than double in the next
five years.
Apparel and accessories accounted for 20 percent of
brand volume last year, or about $240 million, and VF
wants to tack on an additional $265 million in apparel
sales in five years, which would yield 2016 sales of $505
million and a CAGR of 18 percent.
The more highly developed footwear business, the
brand’s starting point in 1966, accounted for 80 percent
of revenues last year, or $960 million, and is forecast to
grow at a 12 percent CAGR, to about $1.7 billion.
The most rapid growth will come in the Asia-Pacific region, slated to yield a 22 percent CAGR and grow to $264
million from $96 million last year, followed by the EuropeMiddle East-Africa region, where an 18 percent CAGR
would lift it to $616 million from $276 million last year.
SEE PAGE 4
WWD.COM
Lush Aims to Lift Moods
For lush, feeling lucky is no
longer a matter of, well, luck.
The company’s first full cosmetics collection, emotional
Brilliance, which bows on July
21, is centered on the belief
that color can shape a person’s
thoughts and behavior.
The range, which includes 13
liquid lipsticks, 11 liquid eyeliners and six cream shadows,
is designed to match consumers to shades that will help
them feel positive.
each product, which is
packaged in a clear glass
bottle, retails for $22.95.
ingredients in the line —
which is also vegan — include
organic jojoba oil, almond oil,
candelilla and rose waxes, a
rose petal infusion, cupuacu
butter and an herbal remedy
called eyebright infusion.
“at any time in our life
we could use a bit of emotional support, whether we
are taking exams or worrying about our first date, to
just getting through our day,”
said rowena Bird, beauty
director, international coordinator and co-founder of
lush. “it’s a great help with
an added bonus of being in the
form of makeup.”
The collection’s 30 hues will
be displayed on a wooden wheel
in each of lush’s 835 stores
(across 50 countries), meant to
provide consumers with a customized mood reading.
after giving the wheel a spin,
shoppers are to pick the three
colors that they are most drawn
corresponding emotional trigger words, lush collaborated
with strategic behavioral therapist lady Kennedy, who specializes in mind care and trying to
change people’s states of mind.
“it is the same as if you have a
lucky object or ritual that you always like to carry or perform before an event,” said Bird. “if you
carry this object your subconscious believes itself to be lucky,
so in turn, you are lucky.”
Bird said because the collection is designed to provide a personal experience
with consumers, there will
be no in-store makeovers.
“This is a range of emotions that are personal to the
wearer and it is up to them
to interpret how they should
be worn,” said Bird. “We
don’t want to project onto
customers an idea of how
they should look or current
trends, this range is about
fulfilling needs and offering
emotional support.”
To celebrate the launch,
lush released a song and
music video in early June
(inspired by the range)
Shades from Lush’s Emotional
across all of the brand’s soBrilliance collection.
cial media forums. lush also
plans to utilize its store windows to advertise the new
Bird. “it offers a little emo- collection in the weeks before it
tional support to you when you is set to roll out. Coinciding with
need it. it’s the power of sugges- the introduction of emotional
tion. if one believes enough in Brilliance, four supplemental
something, there will likely be a products will also be unveiled:
lush’s first mascara, eyes right,
change in behavior.”
industry sources estimate which is formulated with wheatthe collection could generate $8 grass and carnauba wax, a transmillion to $10 million in its first lucent powder and two skin tint
pots, said to add a dash of highyear at retail.
To identify colors and their light or bronze glow.
to in the moment. The selected
shades (tagged with words like
Confident, Take Control and
glamorous) are placed in the
center of the wheel and respectively symbolize a person’s
strength or weakness, her subconscious need and talent.
“The concept matches psychological needs to which color
cosmetics one should be wearing at any given time,” said
Completely Bare Heads to CVS
NeW YorK — Former cast member of “The real
housewives of New York City” Cindy Barshop
couldn’t believe her eyes when she visited the depilatory aisle at her local drugstore.
“it was outdated and there were no innovation,”
said Barshop, founder of Completely Bare spas. “it
was the same stuff that had been there for years.”
she decided to do something about it: a re-
Cindy Barshop
creates
Completely
Bare retail
line.
Barshop aims to bring salon quality to mass, especially for teenagers who are interested in painless and safe hair removal. “everybody shops at
Cvs, and now they can experience the transformative results Completely Bare offers. This hip,
modern product line represents a new direction
for the depilatory market,” Barshop said.
With americans removing unwanted strands
from more places than ever, hair removal is becoming a booming business. Nussdorf, citing numbers from euromonitor international, said hair
removal sales are on track to hit $1.23 billion in
2012 and expand to $1.3 billion in 2013. Bleaches
add in about another $200 million in sales.
Barshop anticipates the products will play well
with sports enthusiasts, teenagers, the gay community and underserved ethnic markets. “This is
going to be a game changer,” she said, adding that
the portability of several of the items — such as the
no-heat strips — allow for travel. “You can throw
these in your suitcase or camp bag,” she said.
To reach targeted markets, Completely Bare
will use social media to promote the launch. a
Qr code located on the product package
links to a how-to video tutorial, the first of
its kind on the market, according to the
company. a Completely Bare specialist
will answer wax-related questions with
a 24-hour timeline and a training DvD
is in the works for beauty advisers.
The Cvs lineup includes three athome wax kits — the hypo-allergenic
Wax strips for Face, Bikini, Body; the
salon Quality Face and other sensitive
areas Wax Kit, and the salon Quality Bikini and
Body Wax Kit. each kit retail for under $17.
also launching online at cvs.com are
Completely Bare pre-and post-wax essentials with
names such as Not Feeling it Numbing and Cooling
spray, Don’t grow There Tri-Complex Body Balm
and Bikini Bump Blaster. Plans call for the line to
roll out to additional retailers in the fall.
critical
mass
tail line of Completely Bare is slated
to launch in Cvs Pharmacy this July.
Barshop teamed with business partner alicia Nussdorf and Quality King,
a distributor with sales exceeding $1
billion. Completely Bare, now a sister
company to Quality King, has the infrastructure to compete against the big powers in the category, which include Coty’s sally
hansen, Church & Dwight’s Nair and reckitt
Benckiser’s veet.
Barshop also has a well-waxed leg up on the
competition, thanks to celebrity status from “The
real housewives of New York City” and her enterprise of four hair removal salons, which have
made the vajewel the latest in accessories.
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