specs - Megaton Media
Transcription
specs - Megaton Media
G I A M o n o g r a p h | T h e M a j e s t i c P i n k D i a m o n d B r a c e l e t Introduction K nown for their great beauty and rarity, pink diamonds have long been sought by jewelers, collectors, and consumers. Notable pink diamonds such as the Darya-i-Nur (reported to weigh more than 175 ct), the 28.15 ct Agra, and the 20.53 ct Hortensia have helped sustain the public’s fascination with these gems. While always commanding attention, pink Geogr aphic Or igin a nd R ar it y diamonds are not common, so there is a of Pink Di a monds scarcity of published information on them. Over the centuries, pink diamonds have been Thus, the Majestic Pink Diamond Bracelet recovered from only a handful of localities. represents an important opportunity to Some historic diamonds, such as the Agra, document a large number of pink diamonds. originated in India. The exact geographic The bracelet was manufactured by Carven sources of the ancient Indian diamonds French Jewelers in 1994. It consists of six remain uncertain, though the Golconda articulated, slightly tapered bands containing region is one likely area. A number of pink 204 diamonds with a combined weight diamonds—some quite large—have been of 43.34 ct. Specifically, 102 cut-cornered found sporadically in alluvial deposits along rectangular and square cuts weighing a total the interior rivers of Brazil, particularly in of 26.52 ct alternate with 102 marquise shapes the region called Triangulo Mineiro (“Mining weighing a total of 16.82 ct. The individual Triangle”), in the state of Minas Gerais. Since diamonds range from 0.10 to 0.47 ct. In 2009, the 1940s, the Williamson mine in Tanzania all the diamonds were removed from the has produced a small quantity of pink dia- setting and submitted to GIA, which issued monds, most notably a 54.50 ct crystal that Colored Diamond Identification and Origin was fashioned into the 23.60 ct round brilliant Reports on each of the 204. Subsequently, 161 Williamson Pink, presented to then-Princess were recut to enhance their color and all were Elizabeth of England on the occasion of her remounted. While the 204 diamonds in the wedding in 1947. Another infrequent source bracelet range from pink to purplish pink to is Kalimantan, on the Indonesian island of purple-pink (and even red), when referring to Borneo, though none of the pink diamonds them as a group this GIA Monograph will use reported from this locality have been large the general term pink. or deeply colored. The Cullinan (formerly 1 G I A M o n o g r a p h | T h e M a j e s t i c P i n k D i a m o n d B r a c e l e t Darwin Nullagine WESTERN AUSTRALIA Perth Sydney Melbourne Since coming on line in 1985, the Argyle mine of Western Australia has been the only consistent source of strongly colored pink (and some red) diamonds. Premier) mine near Johannesburg has also palm of one’s hand. Fewer than 10% produced a few pink diamonds. weigh more than 0.20 ct. It is, therefore The pink diamonds in the bracelet are reportedly from the Argyle mine in Western Australia. Since the late 1980s, the Argyle mine astounding to witness a bracelet that contains 204 pink diamonds. Attesting to the rarity and value of pink has been the only consistent source of pink diamonds are their sale prices at leading and, very rarely, red diamonds. Even so, its auction houses. Over the past decade, some annual output of pink diamonds comparable pinks have commanded hundreds of thousands in size to many in the bracelet could fit in the of dollars per carat. 2 G I A M o n o g r a p h | T h e M a j e s t i c P i n k D i a m o n d B r a c e l e t Color Gr ading the Diamonds F or fancy-color diamonds, color far surpasses the other “Cs” (clarity, cut, and carat weight) when establishing value. Therefore, it is critical to understand color appearances and how they affect color grades and descriptions. While everyone thinks they understand color, for most it is an intuitive response rather than a true knowledge of the ordering of color appearances. GI A Color ed Di a mond Color the observer. The light source is positioned Gr a ding —a n Ov erv iew directly above the diamond, and the observer Color is described using three attributes: hue views it approximately perpendicular to the (the aspect that permits an object to be classified as red, green, blue, violet, or anything in table facet. Working with these parameters, GIA graders between), tone (the relative lightness or darkness), describe a single color as being “characteristic” and saturation (the relative strength or weak- of the diamond as a whole. This characteristic ness). The color appearance of a gem is the color is the overall blend of appearances that result of a combination of these three attributes. excludes surface reflections, dispersion, and GIA’s system for color grading colored diamonds other visual effects related to the cutting of uses 27 hues, which are indicated on the hue the diamond. circle shown on page 10. Some of these 27 hue names include modifiers, such as purplish red. A modifier in a hue name (such as yellowish green or orangy yellow) does not mean a lack of purity in the color. For color grading, colored diamonds are placed face-up in a grooved, matte-white, nonfluorescent plastic tray within a controlled environment—a viewing box that eliminates visual distractions and shields external light. GIA also requires a standard geometry between the diamond, the light source, and Each stone in the Majestic Pink Diamond Bracelet was color graded face-up in a controlled viewing environment. 3 G I A M o n o g r a p h | T h e M a j e s t i c GIA’s grading terminology uses a combina- P i n k D i a m o n d B r a c e l e t they are unmounted and observed under the tion of fancy grades and color descriptions controlled conditions used for color grading, to identify a colored diamond’s characteristic the subtle differences become apparent. color. A fancy grade represents the combined effect of tone and saturation on the color of a diamond. These grades correspond to regions of tone and saturation in color space and vary by hue, since different colors reach their highest saturation at different levels. The color descriptions accompanying a fancy grade are determined by the hue, and by the tone and saturation of the hue. In each GIA substitutes the term pink for red in the medium to light tones of the hues found in the bracelet (purple-red, purplish red, and red). Even at relatively higher saturations and darker tones, the vast majority of diamonds in the purplish red and red hue ranges still appear predominantly pink. Because the GIA Laboratory uses pink to instance, the fancy grades and color descrip- describe certain combinations of tone and tions represent a range of color appearances. saturation, it is always applied independently of the term red. This means that GIA’s termi- Color Gr a ding Ch a r acter istics nology for colored diamonds does not use the of the Di a monds in the M ajestic descriptions “reddish pink” and “pinkish red,” Pink Di a mond Br acelet which would be redundant. The pink diamonds in the Majestic Bracelet It is also important to note that color received GIA grades of Fancy Intense, Fancy nomenclature systems are not universal, so Deep, and Fancy Vivid. All of these grades the appearances associated with pink and red correspond to strongly saturated color, but in these diamonds are not necessarily the they differ slightly in tone. The bracelet also same as for other materials, such as fabrics contains seven diamonds described as red. and paints, or even other gemstones. The color of pink to red diamonds transitions smoothly between hues and grades. Near boundaries, diamonds with different descriptions can look very similar, which is well illustrated by the Majestic Pink Diamond Bracelet. The piece features diamonds that are pink, purplish pink, purple-pink, purplish red, and red, yet the appearances blend harmoniously when the stones are mounted. Those closest in color, the pinks and purplish pinks, appear similar in the mounting, but when 4 This photo shows the subtle distinctions that become apparent when the diamonds are not mounted in the bracelet. G I A M o n o g r a p h | T h e M a j e s t i c P i n k D i a m o n d B r a c e l e t Pink Diamond Color Reference chart Faint Very Light Light Fancy Light Fancy Fancy Dark Fancy Intense Fancy Vivid Fancy Deep Fancy Red This chart illustrates the color appearance range of pink to red diamonds; the fancy grade categories are the same for purplish pink and purple-pink. The tone and saturation of the diamonds in the Majestic Pink Diamond Bracelet place them in the Fancy Intense, Fancy Deep, and Fancy Vivid ranges. 5 G I A M o n o g r a p h | T h e M a j e s t i c P i n k D i a m o n d B r a c e l e t The M ajestic Pink Diamond Br acelet: Milestones 1985 The Argyle diamond mine of Western Australia begins production. For a period of several years, it will be the single largest producer of diamonds in the world. A small percentage of the mine’s output will consist of pink diamonds. L ate 1980s The fi rst pink diamonds are acquired for a one-of-a-kind bracelet. E a r ly 1990s The set of 204 pinks is complete. 1994 Carven French creates the pink diamond bracelet. 2009 • The diamonds are carefully removed from the mounting and submitted to GIA for Colored Diamond Identification and Origin Reports. Of the 204 diamonds, 161 are subsequently recut to enhance their color. • In mid-2009, the diamonds are examined for the creation of a GIA Monograph. • Later that same year, the piece is named the Majestic Pink Diamond Bracelet. 17 G I A M o n o g r a p h | T h e M a j e s t i c P i n k D i a m o n d B r a c e l e t The Diamonds of the Majestic Pink Diamond Bracelet Schematic Location 001 002 003 004 005 006 007 008 009 010 011 012 013 014 015 016 017 018 019 020 021 022 023 024 025 026 027 028 029 030 031 032 033 034 035 036 037 038 039 040 041 042 043 044 045 046 047 048 049 050 051 Weight 0.22 0.1 0.2 0.15 0.23 0.15 0.24 0.15 0.21 0.17 0.31 0.15 0.31 0.18 0.34 0.15 0.35 0.23 0.3 0.22 0.36 0.2 0.43 0.18 0.34 0.18 0.28 0.14 0.19 0.13 0.2 0.14 0.23 0.14 0.13 0.19 0.11 0.19 0.13 0.27 0.2 0.22 0.21 0.25 0.14 0.26 0.18 0.25 0.16 0.35 0.21 Shape RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ Color VIV Pk VIV pPk INT Pk INT Pk VIV pPk INT pPk FDP Pk VIV Pk VIV pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk FDP Pk VIV pPk VIV pPk INT PPk INT pPk VIV pPk INT pPk INT pPk VIV pPk INT PPk FAN pR VIV pPk VIV pPk INT pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk INT pPk INT pPk INT pPk FDP Pk VIV pPk FDP Pk INT Pk INT pPk INT PPk VIV pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk INT pPk INT pPk VIV pPk INT Pk VIV pPk INT pPk INT Pk VIV pPk GIA Report 2105850862 2105839810 1102637447 5101802538 2105635711 5101848640 1102633596 5101796079 2105635777 5101802704 1102607752 5101839829 2105597906 1102839804 1102597900 5101839813 2105593197 5101794251 2105597882 1102794277 2105597870 2105848648 1102597871 2105839796 2105593155 2105796095 5101637374 5101848629 1102635788 2105839801 2105627351 2105802663 2105637410 5101839835 2101802700 1102635783 2105802622 2105637455 2105802722 2105637461 1102796078 5101635799 5101794236 5101637448 5101839818 2105633603 5101802609 2105597902 5101802696 2105597887 2105794245 Schematic Location 052 053 054 055 056 057 058 059 060 061 062 063 064 065 066 067 068 069 070 071 072 073 074 075 076 077 078 079 080 081 082 083 084 085 086 087 088 089 090 091 092 093 094 095 096 097 098 099 100 101 102 Weight 0.45 0.23 0.28 0.21 0.31 0.15 0.35 0.21 0.24 0.18 0.16 0.15 0.16 0.12 0.19 0.11 0.13 0.11 0.17 0.14 0.16 0.13 0.17 0.17 0.22 0.19 0.27 0.17 0.25 0.17 0.27 0.18 0.3 0.23 0.35 0.31 0.31 0.25 0.36 0.14 0.26 0.17 0.28 0.17 0.27 0.15 0.21 0.14 0.22 0.12 0.16 Shape RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ MQ MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD Color VIV pPk INT pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk INT pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk VIV PPk VIV pPk VIV pPk INT Pk VIV pPk INT Pk INT pPk VIV pPk INT pPk INT pPk INT Pk VIV pPk VIV Pk VIV pPk INT pPk INT pPk INT pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk INT pPk INT Pk INT pPk FAN pR VIV Pk VIV pPk INT pPk FAN pR INT pPk INT pPk INT pPk VIV pPk INT Pk VIV pPk INT Pk FDP Pk VIV pPk VIV pPk INT Pk INT pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk Legend Shapes MQ R AD Marquise shape “Radiant” style (cut-cornered rectangular or square shapes) 18 GIA Fancy Grades FAN Fancy INT Fancy Intense FDP Fancy Deep VIV Fancy Vivid GIA Color Descriptions Pk pPk PPk R pR Pink Purplish Pink Purple – Pink Red Purplish Red GIA Report 2105597911 1102794215 2105633532 5101794265 1102597899 5101802626 5101597877 2105794259 1102632582 1102796086 5101635720 2105797381 5101638257 2105848637 2105637358 2105802687 2105638252 5101839828 5101639169 2105802617 5101639145 1102802674 5101639180 5101802631 2105637430 1102802644 1102637405 2105846506 2105604694 2105839809 2105604685 2105848632 2105604692 2105794293 2105593162 2105794264 1102601304 2105794242 5101604688 1102802695 2105604687 5101796074 1102633522 1102848644 2105635803 2105802538 5101637436 5101802534 1102637443 5101802683 5101639175 G I A Schematic Location 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 Weight 0.22 0.13 0.24 0.11 0.23 0.12 0.25 0.16 0.26 0.16 0.23 0.17 0.31 0.19 0.33 0.18 0.47 0.2 0.25 0.19 0.32 0.2 0.21 0.18 0.31 0.14 0.23 0.17 0.22 0.11 0.17 0.12 0.17 0.13 0.13 0.19 0.12 0.19 0.14 0.23 0.13 0.22 0.14 0.28 0.16 0.32 0.21 0.38 0.19 0.39 0.24 M o n o g r a p h Shape RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ Color FDP Pk VIV Pk INT Pk INT Pk INT pPk INT pPk INT pPk VIV pPk FAN R VIV pPk FDP Pk INT Pk FDP Pk INT pPk INT pPk INT Pk VIV Pk INT Pk INT Pk VIV pPk VIV pPk VIV Pk FAN pR VIV pPk INT pPk VIV Pk INT pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk INT pPk FDP pPk INT Pk VIV pPk VIV pPk INT pPk VIV pPk VIV PPk INT pPk INT Pk VIV pPk FDP pPk VIV PPk VIV Pk VIV pPk INT Pk VIV pPk INT pPk INT Pk INT pPk VIV pPk INT Pk | T h e M a j e s t i c GIA Report 5101637435 2105796084 2105637344 2105802668 5101637381 2105802533 5101637377 2105802536 2105637366 1102638258 2105633568 2195802641 2105633604 2105839834 5101605252 2105796097 2105593153 2105796051 1102635716 2105839847 5101602551 5101794221 1102635774 2105796092 1102633540 5101802655 2105637361 2105796083 2105637359 1102839816 2105635713 2105802613 5101639149 2105796077 2105839814 5101633587 5101839836 5101639182 2105796076 1102635719 1102796091 2105639170 5101796090 2105633517 2105802611 1102601264 2105794250 2105605255 2105794258 5101593167 14466536 P i n k D i a m o n d Schematic Location 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190 191 192 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200 201 202 203 204 B r a c e l e t Weight 0.33 0.23 0.28 0.2 0.29 0.17 0.31 0.14 0.27 0.14 0.2 0.15 0.35 0.11 0.18 0.12 0.14 0.25 0.15 0.17 0.17 0.19 0.2 0.15 0.15 0.27 0.18 0.33 0.21 0.3 0.17 0.31 0.15 0.34 0.25 0.31 0.19 0.33 0.17 0.31 0.18 0.2 0.16 0.24 0.16 0.2 0.17 0.24 0.12 0.19 0.13 Shape RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ RAD MQ Color INT pPk INT Pk VIV pPk VIV Pk INT Pk VIV pPk FAN R INT pPk INT Pk VIV pPk VIV pPk INT Pk INT pPk VIV Pk VIV pPk INT pPk INT pPk VIV pPk INT pPk VIV pPk INT pPk INT pPk VIV pPk INT pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk INT Pk VIV Pk INT pPK VIV Pk INT Pk VIV Pk INT pPk FAN pR INT pPk INT pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk INT Pk VIV pPk VIV pPk VIV pPk INT pPk VIV pPk INT pPk INT pPk INT pPk VIV pPk VIV Pk GIA Report 2105601263 2105794225 1102633521 2105796051 5101633561 1102839817 2105605256 1102839806 1102635718 5101839846 2105635722 2105839822 2105607753 5101802635 5101639144 1102802649 2105638263 2105633588 2105839800 5101635790 1102848633 2105639154 5101794278 1102638258 2105839841 2105633527 1102848645 5101593168 5101794283 2105601268 2105839805 5101601267 2105839825 2105601265 2105794270 1102593154 5101794271 2105601262 2105796085 5101604884 1102802603 2105637370 5101802689 1102633484 1102802728 2105635776 2105839842 2105639166 2105802680 2105639160 2105796072 Legend Shapes MQ R AD Marquise shape “Radiant” style (cut-cornered rectangular or square shapes) GIA Fancy Grades FAN Fancy INT Fancy Intense FDP Fancy Deep VIV Fancy Vivid GIA Color Descriptions Pk pPk PPk R pR Pink Purplish Pink Purple – Pink Red Purplish Red 19 G I A 001 002 035 069 036 103 104 137 171 037 071 070 004 003 138 20 073 173 107 140 17 174 141 175 176 077 143 177 144 178 145 179 146 180 113 147 181 115 148 182 049 149 183 150 184 051 050 084 117 116 017 016 083 082 081 114 048 047 046 015 014 013 080 079 112 B r a c e l e t 012 045 044 078 111 D i a m o n d 011 043 042 110 P i n k 010 009 076 109 142 M a j e s t i c 008 075 108 T h e 041 040 07 074 | 007 006 039 038 106 139 172 005 072 105 M o n o g r a p h 085 118 017 185 086 119 017 186 153 G I A 018 019 052 020 053 087 120 187 054 088 121 154 188 021 122 155 189 190 023 056 124 158 157 191 192 194 027 060 061 095 128 161 195 P i n k 026 094 127 160 193 M a j e s t i c 059 093 126 159 T h e 025 058 092 125 | 024 057 091 090 123 156 022 055 089 M o n o g r a p h 028 196 062 096 163 197 B r a c e l e t 029 030 031 032 063 064 065 066 198 165 199 100 166 167 200 201 034 033 067 068 102 101 134 133 132 131 164 099 098 097 130 129 162 D i a m o n d 135 168 202 1366 13 169 170 204 203 21 G I A M o n o g r a p h | T h e M a j e s t i c P i n k D i a m o n d B r a c e l e t A bout GI A Established in 1931, the Gemological Institute of America is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones, and pearls. A nonprofit institute, GIA’s mission is to ensure the public trust in gems and jewelry by upholding the highest standards of integrity, academics, science, and professionalism through education, research, laboratory services, and instrument development. Visit www.gia.edu ©2009 Gemological Institute of America. All rights reserved. 22