specs - Megaton Media

Transcription

specs - Megaton Media
G I A
M o n o g r a p h
|
T h e
M a j e s t i c
P i n k
D i a m o n d
B r a c e l e t
Introduction
K
nown for their great beauty and rarity, pink diamonds have long been sought
by jewelers, collectors, and consumers. Notable pink diamonds such as the
Darya-i-Nur (reported to weigh more than 175 ct), the 28.15 ct Agra, and the
20.53 ct Hortensia have helped sustain the public’s fascination with these gems.
While always commanding attention, pink
Geogr aphic Or igin a nd R ar it y
diamonds are not common, so there is a
of Pink Di a monds
scarcity of published information on them.
Over the centuries, pink diamonds have been
Thus, the Majestic Pink Diamond Bracelet
recovered from only a handful of localities.
represents an important opportunity to
Some historic diamonds, such as the Agra,
document a large number of pink diamonds.
originated in India. The exact geographic
The bracelet was manufactured by Carven
sources of the ancient Indian diamonds
French Jewelers in 1994. It consists of six
remain uncertain, though the Golconda
articulated, slightly tapered bands containing
region is one likely area. A number of pink
204 diamonds with a combined weight
diamonds—some quite large—have been
of 43.34 ct. Specifically, 102 cut-cornered
found sporadically in alluvial deposits along
rectangular and square cuts weighing a total
the interior rivers of Brazil, particularly in
of 26.52 ct alternate with 102 marquise shapes
the region called Triangulo Mineiro (“Mining
weighing a total of 16.82 ct. The individual
Triangle”), in the state of Minas Gerais. Since
diamonds range from 0.10 to 0.47 ct. In 2009,
the 1940s, the Williamson mine in Tanzania
all the diamonds were removed from the
has produced a small quantity of pink dia-
setting and submitted to GIA, which issued
monds, most notably a 54.50 ct crystal that
Colored Diamond Identification and Origin
was fashioned into the 23.60 ct round brilliant
Reports on each of the 204. Subsequently, 161
Williamson Pink, presented to then-Princess
were recut to enhance their color and all were
Elizabeth of England on the occasion of her
remounted. While the 204 diamonds in the
wedding in 1947. Another infrequent source
bracelet range from pink to purplish pink to
is Kalimantan, on the Indonesian island of
purple-pink (and even red), when referring to
Borneo, though none of the pink diamonds
them as a group this GIA Monograph will use
reported from this locality have been large
the general term pink.
or deeply colored. The Cullinan (formerly
1
G I A
M o n o g r a p h
|
T h e
M a j e s t i c
P i n k
D i a m o n d
B r a c e l e t
Darwin
Nullagine
WESTERN
AUSTRALIA
Perth
Sydney
Melbourne
Since coming on line in 1985, the Argyle mine of Western
Australia has been the only consistent source of strongly
colored pink (and some red) diamonds.
Premier) mine near Johannesburg has also
palm of one’s hand. Fewer than 10%
produced a few pink diamonds.
weigh more than 0.20 ct. It is, therefore
The pink diamonds in the bracelet are
reportedly from the Argyle mine in Western
Australia. Since the late 1980s, the Argyle mine
astounding to witness a bracelet that
contains 204 pink diamonds.
Attesting to the rarity and value of pink
has been the only consistent source of pink
diamonds are their sale prices at leading
and, very rarely, red diamonds. Even so, its
auction houses. Over the past decade, some
annual output of pink diamonds comparable
pinks have commanded hundreds of thousands
in size to many in the bracelet could fit in the
of dollars per carat.
2
G I A
M o n o g r a p h
|
T h e
M a j e s t i c
P i n k
D i a m o n d
B r a c e l e t
Color Gr ading the Diamonds
F
or fancy-color diamonds, color far surpasses the other “Cs” (clarity, cut,
and carat weight) when establishing value. Therefore, it is critical to
understand color appearances and how they affect color grades and descriptions.
While everyone thinks they understand color, for most it is an intuitive response
rather than a true knowledge of the ordering of color appearances.
GI A Color ed Di a mond Color
the observer. The light source is positioned
Gr a ding —a n Ov erv iew
directly above the diamond, and the observer
Color is described using three attributes: hue
views it approximately perpendicular to the
(the aspect that permits an object to be classified
as red, green, blue, violet, or anything in
table facet.
Working with these parameters, GIA graders
between), tone (the relative lightness or darkness),
describe a single color as being “characteristic”
and saturation (the relative strength or weak-
of the diamond as a whole. This characteristic
ness). The color appearance of a gem is the
color is the overall blend of appearances that
result of a combination of these three attributes.
excludes surface reflections, dispersion, and
GIA’s system for color grading colored diamonds
other visual effects related to the cutting of
uses 27 hues, which are indicated on the hue
the diamond.
circle shown on page 10. Some of these 27 hue
names include modifiers, such as purplish red.
A modifier in a hue name (such as yellowish green
or orangy yellow) does not mean a lack of purity
in the color.
For color grading, colored diamonds are
placed face-up in a grooved, matte-white,
nonfluorescent plastic tray within a controlled
environment—a viewing box that eliminates
visual distractions and shields external
light. GIA also requires a standard geometry
between the diamond, the light source, and
Each stone in the Majestic Pink Diamond Bracelet was color
graded face-up in a controlled viewing environment.
3
G I A
M o n o g r a p h
|
T h e
M a j e s t i c
GIA’s grading terminology uses a combina-
P i n k
D i a m o n d
B r a c e l e t
they are unmounted and observed under the
tion of fancy grades and color descriptions
controlled conditions used for color grading,
to identify a colored diamond’s characteristic
the subtle differences become apparent.
color. A fancy grade represents the combined
effect of tone and saturation on the color
of a diamond. These grades correspond to
regions of tone and saturation in color space
and vary by hue, since different colors reach
their highest saturation at different levels.
The color descriptions accompanying a fancy
grade are determined by the hue, and by
the tone and saturation of the hue. In each
GIA substitutes the term pink for red in the
medium to light tones of the hues found in
the bracelet (purple-red, purplish red, and
red). Even at relatively higher saturations and
darker tones, the vast majority of diamonds
in the purplish red and red hue ranges still
appear predominantly pink.
Because the GIA Laboratory uses pink to
instance, the fancy grades and color descrip-
describe certain combinations of tone and
tions represent a range of color appearances.
saturation, it is always applied independently
of the term red. This means that GIA’s termi-
Color Gr a ding Ch a r acter istics
nology for colored diamonds does not use the
of the Di a monds in the M ajestic
descriptions “reddish pink” and “pinkish red,”
Pink Di a mond Br acelet
which would be redundant.
The pink diamonds in the Majestic Bracelet
It is also important to note that color
received GIA grades of Fancy Intense, Fancy
nomenclature systems are not universal, so
Deep, and Fancy Vivid. All of these grades
the appearances associated with pink and red
correspond to strongly saturated color, but
in these diamonds are not necessarily the
they differ slightly in tone. The bracelet also
same as for other materials, such as fabrics
contains seven diamonds described as red.
and paints, or even other gemstones.
The color of pink to red diamonds transitions smoothly between hues and grades.
Near boundaries, diamonds with different
descriptions can look very similar, which is
well illustrated by the Majestic Pink Diamond
Bracelet. The piece features diamonds that are
pink, purplish pink, purple-pink, purplish red,
and red, yet the appearances blend harmoniously when the stones are mounted. Those
closest in color, the pinks and purplish pinks,
appear similar in the mounting, but when
4
This photo shows the subtle distinctions that become apparent
when the diamonds are not mounted in the bracelet.
G I A
M o n o g r a p h
|
T h e
M a j e s t i c
P i n k
D i a m o n d
B r a c e l e t
Pink Diamond Color Reference chart
Faint
Very Light
Light
Fancy Light
Fancy
Fancy
Dark
Fancy
Intense
Fancy
Vivid
Fancy
Deep
Fancy
Red
This chart illustrates the color appearance range of pink to red diamonds; the fancy grade categories are the same for purplish pink
and purple-pink. The tone and saturation of the diamonds in the Majestic Pink Diamond Bracelet place them in the Fancy Intense,
Fancy Deep, and Fancy Vivid ranges.
5
G I A
M o n o g r a p h
|
T h e
M a j e s t i c
P i n k
D i a m o n d
B r a c e l e t
The M ajestic Pink Diamond Br acelet: Milestones
1985
The Argyle diamond mine of Western Australia begins production. For a period of several years,
it will be the single largest producer of diamonds in the world. A small percentage of the mine’s
output will consist of pink diamonds.
L ate 1980s
The fi rst pink diamonds are acquired for a one-of-a-kind bracelet.
E a r ly 1990s
The set of 204 pinks is complete.
1994
Carven French creates the pink diamond bracelet.
2009
• The diamonds are carefully removed from the mounting and submitted to GIA for
Colored Diamond Identification and Origin Reports. Of the 204 diamonds, 161 are
subsequently recut to enhance their color.
• In mid-2009, the diamonds are examined for the creation of a GIA Monograph.
• Later that same year, the piece is named the Majestic Pink Diamond Bracelet.
17
G I A
M o n o g r a p h
|
T h e
M a j e s t i c
P i n k
D i a m o n d
B r a c e l e t
The Diamonds of the Majestic Pink Diamond Bracelet
Schematic
Location
001
002
003
004
005
006
007
008
009
010
011
012
013
014
015
016
017
018
019
020
021
022
023
024
025
026
027
028
029
030
031
032
033
034
035
036
037
038
039
040
041
042
043
044
045
046
047
048
049
050
051
Weight
0.22
0.1
0.2
0.15
0.23
0.15
0.24
0.15
0.21
0.17
0.31
0.15
0.31
0.18
0.34
0.15
0.35
0.23
0.3
0.22
0.36
0.2
0.43
0.18
0.34
0.18
0.28
0.14
0.19
0.13
0.2
0.14
0.23
0.14
0.13
0.19
0.11
0.19
0.13
0.27
0.2
0.22
0.21
0.25
0.14
0.26
0.18
0.25
0.16
0.35
0.21
Shape
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
Color
VIV Pk
VIV pPk
INT Pk
INT Pk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
FDP Pk
VIV Pk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
FDP Pk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
INT PPk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
INT PPk
FAN pR
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
INT pPk
INT pPk
FDP Pk
VIV pPk
FDP Pk
INT Pk
INT pPk
INT PPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
INT Pk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
INT Pk
VIV pPk
GIA Report
2105850862
2105839810
1102637447
5101802538
2105635711
5101848640
1102633596
5101796079
2105635777
5101802704
1102607752
5101839829
2105597906
1102839804
1102597900
5101839813
2105593197
5101794251
2105597882
1102794277
2105597870
2105848648
1102597871
2105839796
2105593155
2105796095
5101637374
5101848629
1102635788
2105839801
2105627351
2105802663
2105637410
5101839835
2101802700
1102635783
2105802622
2105637455
2105802722
2105637461
1102796078
5101635799
5101794236
5101637448
5101839818
2105633603
5101802609
2105597902
5101802696
2105597887
2105794245
Schematic
Location
052
053
054
055
056
057
058
059
060
061
062
063
064
065
066
067
068
069
070
071
072
073
074
075
076
077
078
079
080
081
082
083
084
085
086
087
088
089
090
091
092
093
094
095
096
097
098
099
100
101
102
Weight
0.45
0.23
0.28
0.21
0.31
0.15
0.35
0.21
0.24
0.18
0.16
0.15
0.16
0.12
0.19
0.11
0.13
0.11
0.17
0.14
0.16
0.13
0.17
0.17
0.22
0.19
0.27
0.17
0.25
0.17
0.27
0.18
0.3
0.23
0.35
0.31
0.31
0.25
0.36
0.14
0.26
0.17
0.28
0.17
0.27
0.15
0.21
0.14
0.22
0.12
0.16
Shape
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
MQ
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
Color
VIV pPk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
VIV PPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
INT Pk
VIV pPk
INT Pk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
INT pPk
INT Pk
VIV pPk
VIV Pk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
INT pPk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
INT Pk
INT pPk
FAN pR
VIV Pk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
FAN pR
INT pPk
INT pPk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
INT Pk
VIV pPk
INT Pk
FDP Pk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
INT Pk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
Legend
Shapes
MQ
R AD
Marquise shape
“Radiant” style
(cut-cornered rectangular
or square shapes)
18
GIA Fancy Grades
FAN
Fancy
INT
Fancy Intense
FDP
Fancy Deep
VIV
Fancy Vivid
GIA Color Descriptions
Pk
pPk
PPk
R
pR
Pink
Purplish Pink
Purple – Pink
Red
Purplish Red
GIA Report
2105597911
1102794215
2105633532
5101794265
1102597899
5101802626
5101597877
2105794259
1102632582
1102796086
5101635720
2105797381
5101638257
2105848637
2105637358
2105802687
2105638252
5101839828
5101639169
2105802617
5101639145
1102802674
5101639180
5101802631
2105637430
1102802644
1102637405
2105846506
2105604694
2105839809
2105604685
2105848632
2105604692
2105794293
2105593162
2105794264
1102601304
2105794242
5101604688
1102802695
2105604687
5101796074
1102633522
1102848644
2105635803
2105802538
5101637436
5101802534
1102637443
5101802683
5101639175
G I A
Schematic
Location
103
104
105
106
107
108
109
110
111
112
113
114
115
116
117
118
119
120
121
122
123
124
125
126
127
128
129
130
131
132
133
134
135
136
137
138
139
140
141
142
143
144
145
146
147
148
149
150
151
152
153
Weight
0.22
0.13
0.24
0.11
0.23
0.12
0.25
0.16
0.26
0.16
0.23
0.17
0.31
0.19
0.33
0.18
0.47
0.2
0.25
0.19
0.32
0.2
0.21
0.18
0.31
0.14
0.23
0.17
0.22
0.11
0.17
0.12
0.17
0.13
0.13
0.19
0.12
0.19
0.14
0.23
0.13
0.22
0.14
0.28
0.16
0.32
0.21
0.38
0.19
0.39
0.24
M o n o g r a p h
Shape
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
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RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
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RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
Color
FDP Pk
VIV Pk
INT Pk
INT Pk
INT pPk
INT pPk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
FAN R
VIV pPk
FDP Pk
INT Pk
FDP Pk
INT pPk
INT pPk
INT Pk
VIV Pk
INT Pk
INT Pk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
VIV Pk
FAN pR
VIV pPk
INT pPk
VIV Pk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
FDP pPk
INT Pk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
VIV PPk
INT pPk
INT Pk
VIV pPk
FDP pPk
VIV PPk
VIV Pk
VIV pPk
INT Pk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
INT Pk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
INT Pk
|
T h e
M a j e s t i c
GIA Report
5101637435
2105796084
2105637344
2105802668
5101637381
2105802533
5101637377
2105802536
2105637366
1102638258
2105633568
2195802641
2105633604
2105839834
5101605252
2105796097
2105593153
2105796051
1102635716
2105839847
5101602551
5101794221
1102635774
2105796092
1102633540
5101802655
2105637361
2105796083
2105637359
1102839816
2105635713
2105802613
5101639149
2105796077
2105839814
5101633587
5101839836
5101639182
2105796076
1102635719
1102796091
2105639170
5101796090
2105633517
2105802611
1102601264
2105794250
2105605255
2105794258
5101593167
14466536
P i n k
D i a m o n d
Schematic
Location
154
155
156
157
158
159
160
161
162
163
164
165
166
167
168
169
170
171
172
173
174
175
176
177
178
179
180
181
182
183
184
185
186
187
188
189
190
191
192
193
194
195
196
197
198
199
200
201
202
203
204
B r a c e l e t
Weight
0.33
0.23
0.28
0.2
0.29
0.17
0.31
0.14
0.27
0.14
0.2
0.15
0.35
0.11
0.18
0.12
0.14
0.25
0.15
0.17
0.17
0.19
0.2
0.15
0.15
0.27
0.18
0.33
0.21
0.3
0.17
0.31
0.15
0.34
0.25
0.31
0.19
0.33
0.17
0.31
0.18
0.2
0.16
0.24
0.16
0.2
0.17
0.24
0.12
0.19
0.13
Shape
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
RAD
MQ
Color
INT pPk
INT Pk
VIV pPk
VIV Pk
INT Pk
VIV pPk
FAN R
INT pPk
INT Pk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
INT Pk
INT pPk
VIV Pk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
INT Pk
VIV Pk
INT pPK
VIV Pk
INT Pk
VIV Pk
INT pPk
FAN pR
INT pPk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
INT Pk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
INT pPk
INT pPk
INT pPk
VIV pPk
VIV Pk
GIA Report
2105601263
2105794225
1102633521
2105796051
5101633561
1102839817
2105605256
1102839806
1102635718
5101839846
2105635722
2105839822
2105607753
5101802635
5101639144
1102802649
2105638263
2105633588
2105839800
5101635790
1102848633
2105639154
5101794278
1102638258
2105839841
2105633527
1102848645
5101593168
5101794283
2105601268
2105839805
5101601267
2105839825
2105601265
2105794270
1102593154
5101794271
2105601262
2105796085
5101604884
1102802603
2105637370
5101802689
1102633484
1102802728
2105635776
2105839842
2105639166
2105802680
2105639160
2105796072
Legend
Shapes
MQ
R AD
Marquise shape
“Radiant” style
(cut-cornered rectangular
or square shapes)
GIA Fancy Grades
FAN
Fancy
INT
Fancy Intense
FDP
Fancy Deep
VIV
Fancy Vivid
GIA Color Descriptions
Pk
pPk
PPk
R
pR
Pink
Purplish Pink
Purple – Pink
Red
Purplish Red
19
G I A
001
002
035
069
036
103
104
137
171
037
071
070
004
003
138
20
073
173
107
140
17
174
141
175
176
077
143
177
144
178
145
179
146
180
113
147
181
115
148
182
049
149
183
150
184
051
050
084
117
116
017
016
083
082
081
114
048
047
046
015
014
013
080
079
112
B r a c e l e t
012
045
044
078
111
D i a m o n d
011
043
042
110
P i n k
010
009
076
109
142
M a j e s t i c
008
075
108
T h e
041
040
07
074
|
007
006
039
038
106
139
172
005
072
105
M o n o g r a p h
085
118
017
185
086
119
017
186
153
G I A
018
019
052
020
053
087
120
187
054
088
121
154
188
021
122
155
189
190
023
056
124
158
157
191
192
194
027
060
061
095
128
161
195
P i n k
026
094
127
160
193
M a j e s t i c
059
093
126
159
T h e
025
058
092
125
|
024
057
091
090
123
156
022
055
089
M o n o g r a p h
028
196
062
096
163
197
B r a c e l e t
029
030
031
032
063
064
065
066
198
165
199
100
166
167
200
201
034
033
067
068
102
101
134
133
132
131
164
099
098
097
130
129
162
D i a m o n d
135
168
202
1366
13
169
170
204
203
21
G I A
M o n o g r a p h
|
T h e
M a j e s t i c
P i n k
D i a m o n d
B r a c e l e t
A bout GI A
Established in 1931, the Gemological Institute of America is the world’s foremost authority on
diamonds, colored stones, and pearls. A nonprofit institute, GIA’s mission is to ensure the public
trust in gems and jewelry by upholding the highest standards of integrity, academics, science,
and professionalism through education, research, laboratory services, and instrument development.
Visit www.gia.edu
©2009 Gemological Institute of America. All rights reserved.
22

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