Nakasendo Way Sample Program

Transcription

Nakasendo Way Sample Program
WALKJAPAN
Educational
中山道
Nakasendo Way: Japan on Foot
6 nights, 7 days
Japan on Foot is a unique walking exploration of Japan, its history and culture.
We explore one of the old highways of Japan, the Nakasendo, or 'road through the
central mountains'. Once a main thoroughfare of feudal Japan, today the
Nakasendo provides a delightful excursion through scenic countryside.
En route we will have some fascinating insights into the world of feudal Japan, the
samurai and, also, urban and village life today. We stay in atmospheric and
beautiful inns, taste a variety of Japanese dishes and share life with the Japanese,
some of the most polite and friendliest people in the world.
Sights include the big, bright lights of modern Nagoya through to quiet, pretty
villages in secluded valleys. We will experience the Japanese way of life including
sleeping on futons, bathing in wooden baths and eating while sitting on tatami
mat floors. We will learn why the Nakasendo existed and about the great shogun
leader Tokugawa Ieyasu, whose dynasty ruled Japan for over 260 years. We will
experience the tea ceremony, traditional folk singing, and try our hand at
woodblock printmaking. Of course, you will also have the chance to learn some
Japanese. Some final treats include Karaoke and shopping in Nagoya.
www.walkjapan.com
Contents
Contents
Meeting instructions...............................................
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Itinerary....................................................................
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Packing List.............................................................
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Travel Advice (Diet, Health and Safety).................
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Japanese words & phrases .................................. 12
Japanese etiquette.................................................
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Day-specific study notes .....................................
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Maps .....................................................................
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Meeting instructions
Meeting Instructions
Meeting time:
*****
Where:
*****
Flight:
*****
Departure time:
*****
Do not be late
Do not forget essential documents: PASSPORT
and *****.
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Itinerary
Itinerary
Day 1.
***** - Nagoya - Ena
Flight no: ***** !
Departure time:*****
Arrival time in Nagoya: *****
Meet in the Departure Area *****
Arrive Centrair (Nagoya) Airport. Transfer by train to Ena for our first
night in an inn. Full briefing with your tour leader on the days ahead.
Stay in a Japanese Inn. Dinner provided.
Accommodation: Japanese Inn
Day 2.
Ena - Nakatsugawa - Yamaguchi
Visit the excellent Hiroshige Print Museum in Ena. In the museum we
will learn about the print making process, make our own prints and
see some made by the experts. We then begin the day's walk across
rolling countryside to Nakatsugawa, an old post town and now a
pleasant regional town. Time here for lunch before our afternoon walk
in hilly countryside to Shinchaya inn. Experience of the tea ceremony
with a tea master in the evening. Total walking about 16km.
Stay in a Japanese inn. Breakfast, lunch and dinner provided.
Accommodation: Japanese Inn
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Itinerary
Day 3.
Yamaguchi - Magome -O-Tsumago
Walk to Magome post-town, the home of Japan's first modern novelist,
Shimazaki Toson and author of Before the Dawn. Time here to freely
explore this pleasant old town and purchase lunch. Then, onwards
along the old highway via quiet roads and forest paths to Otsumago, a
small cluster of inns. Stay in an old, traditional inn. Visit the original,
high-class inn, now museum, in Tsumago. Enjoy an evening bath at a
mountain top hot spring before dinner and then folk singing with a local
expert. Total walking about 11km.
Stay in a Japanese inn. Breakfast, lunch & dinner provided.
Accommodation: Japanese Inn
Day 4.
O-Tsumago - Tsumago - Nagiso - Kiso-Fukushima
Continue walking the Nakasendo to Nagiso. At Nagiso visit the
Momosuke Bridge. Learn about how Momosuke developed hydroelectric power in the Kiso Valley. Also learn about Sadayakko, the
most famous geisha of her age who led a colourful life.
Depending on weather and ambitions, either continue to Nojiri with a
picnic on the way (total walking 22km), or transfer directly by train to
Kiso-Fukushima (total walking 8km).
Stroll around Kiso-Fukushima and visit a street-side hot spring.
Stay in a Japanese inn. Breakfast, lunch and dinner provided.
Accommodation: Japanese Inn
Day 5.
Kiso-Fukushima - Tori Pass - Narai
Visit the local reconstructed barrier station, a check-point on the old
highway. Walk on through the narrowing Kiso valley, passing the
halfway point between Kyoto and Tokyo, take a train for a short
journey before our walk over the Torii Pass to Narai, another
picturesque post-town. Total walking about 8km.
Stay in a Japanese inn. Breakfast, lunch and dinner provided.
Accommodation: Japanese Inn
5
Itinerary
Day 6.
Narai - Nagoya
Relax in Narai. Optional visit to a lacquerware craftsman's house
and studio in a neighbouring town, a 30 minute walk further along
the Nakasendo. Return to Nagoya by train. Visit Osu Kannon shrine
and its surrounding shopping district. After dinner partake in a
Japanese favourite, Karaoke, for a celebratory end to our tour.
Stay in a Japanese hotel. Breakfast, lunch and dinner provided.
Internet available.
Accommodation:Western Hotel
Day 7.
Nagoya - Centrair (Nagoya) Airport - Hong Kong
Transfer with Walk Japan tour leader to Nagoya Airport for return
flight home.
Flight no: *****!
Departure time: *****
Arrival time in ******: *****
Breakfast included.
This itinerary may be subject to change.
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Notes
Notes
1. This itinerary is subject to change.
2. This itinerary is ground only, beginning and ending in Centrair (Nagoya)
Airport. The group will be met as a group at Centrair Airport by the Walk Japan
tour leader. All travel according to the itinerary in Japan is included in the tour.
3. The Walk Japan tour leader is an experienced guide, fluent in English and
Japanese, and knowlegeable about many aspects of Japan.
4. Meals provided in the tour are noted in the itinerary above. Japanese
cuisine is as varied as it is high in quality.
5. Japanese inns are traditional Japanese style accommodation, where we will
also enjoy some excellent Japanese cuisine. Hotels will be comfortable and
clean family-type accommodation. Internet availability will be noted in due
course.
6. Entrance fees for guided visits to museums etc are included.
7. There is no porter service in Japan. One piece of luggage, besides a day
pack for walking, per person is advised.
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Packing List
Packing List
To help maintain a comfortable body temperature while walking it is
best to have a number of layers of clothing that can be easily peeled
off or added on as required. Please be prepared for rain. Also, a hat
is recommended for warmth and to ward off the sun. Please
remember a sense of humour, curiosity and sensitivity too!
Hat !
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Rain resistant outer jacket !!
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Rain resistant outer trousers !
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Warm Fleece-style jacket/zip up top!!
Warm trousers (2 pairs)! !
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T-shirts/Long sleeved shirts (7 sets)!!
Warm hiking socks (7 pairs)!
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Underwear (7 sets)
Gloves ! !
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Scarf ! !
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Night clothing – slacks/leggings & top !
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N.B. Yukata, evening gowns, will be provided at our lodgings. These may be
worn for dinner and to sleep in. A warm over–jacket will also be provided.
However, it is a good idea to also bring slacks/leggings and a top to wear
underneath the Yukata and help ward off any cold air.
Water resistant hiking boots!
Athletic shoes ! !
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Small daypack/backpack! !
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The daypack is to carry water bottle, camera, spare clothing, etc. while
walking. Our main luggage will be sent ahead by vehicle on each morning to
our next lodgings.
Collapsible umbrella (Optional)!
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Small towel!
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Sunglasses !
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Personal medication!
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Toothbrush and toothpaste!!
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Personal Shampoo, comb, brush, etc!
Skin lotion, suntan lotion, chapstick! !
Packets of tissue / toilet roll!
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Packing list
N.B. Soap and shampoo will be provided at our lodgings. Also, mosquitoes,
etc. will not be a problem at this time of year and insect repellent
unnecessary.
Rucksack / Wheeled suitcase!
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A medium suitcase with wheels or medium to large sized rucksack should be
sufficient to contain everything for this tour.
Passport!!
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Camera! and film/memory and charger (Optional)!
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The electricity current in Japan is 120 volt and plugs are the same style as
those in the USA.
Pencil/pen!
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Notebook!
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Refillable water bottle (Optional)!
Snacks for the trail (Optional) !
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Prior to departure (Spending money)
You should buy yen before departure to carry with you. Changing any
currency into yen in Japan is inconvenient and time-consuming, so
bring with you what you need. Snacks and drinks can cost up to
1500 yen a day. Gifts range from 500 yen up. Plan spending money
accordingly.
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Travel advice
Travel advice
Ability to accommodate Special Dietary Requirements: When the group stays
in traditional Japanese inns, the dinners and breakfasts are decided weeks in
advance using local produce available in that region.
Meals usually include raw and cooked fish, meat, and vegetables. In Japan,
specific dietary requirements such as vegetarianism, kosher food, and a number of
food-related allergies and problems, such as coeliac disease, are not widely
understood nor catered for and we cannot guarantee to provide vegetarian, vegan,
kosher, or other specific meals. However, we will endeavour to cater wherever
possible to individual requirements, and many vegetarians and vegans have both
participated in our programs and enjoyed the food on them.
Our general policy is to contact the accommodation we use and notify them of
particular requirements. Most, if not all, will be able to provide one or two alternative
dishes for participants with specific dietary needs. Please let us know of any
requirements well in advance if you have any special dietary needs.
Please note that soy sauce, which in Japan always includes wheat, is an ingredient
common to many dishes in Japan and there may be a limit to how many dishes can
be altered for those who require a gluten-free diet. If you have specific dietary
needs we suggest you also bring other food items to help supplement your meals.
Health and Safety Overview. There are no compulsory health-related procedures
before entering Japan and no vaccinations or prophylactic medicines are required
(although Japanese encepalitis inoculations are recommended by some
authorities).
However, it is the school’s responsibility to ensure that all students are aware of
and have taken all medications, vaccinations or health precautions which may be
suitable to them well before the tour.
Students are responsible for any medicine they may require during the program.
Please note that medicine that may be available or prescribed in Japan may differ
from other countries. Therefore, students should bring all medicine that you may
need.
The fact that Japan is one of the safest countries in the world makes this it an ideal
destination for young students.
PLEASE SEE THE ACCOMPANYING RISK ASSESSMENT DOCUMENT FOR A
MORE COMPREHENSIVE HEALTH AND SAFETY OVERVIEW
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Travel advice
Clothing & baggage. It is advisable to bring a variety of layers ranging from tshirts to a top with long sleeves and a sweater/fleece. We recommend good
quality walking shoes/boots. You may also like to bring some comfortable, casual
shoes — sneakers, sandals, etc. — for use in town. The sun's rays can be strong
and we recommend a sun hat, sun screen, etc. A lightweight, packable waterproof
and a compact, foldable umbrella should suffice for any inclement weather. (Note,
24-hour stores, which are found almost everywhere in Japan, sell cheap umbrellas
and rain capes). Yukata, evening gowns for sleeping in, are provided at each
lodging. However, we recommend leggings, a top, etc. to wear underneath. This
will provide a degree of modesty and help ward off any cold air. Coin laundry
facilities are not available during this tour.
When walking our main luggage is sent on ahead to the next lodgings by vehicle.
Each day we carry only what we need (camera, water bottle, note book, rain jacket,
etc.) for the walk itself.
Access to cash. Exchanging cash or travellers' cheques in major currencies is
possible but a very time-consuming exercise. Instead, we recommend alternatives
including arriving in Japan with some Japanese currency, using credit cards, and
withdrawing cash from ATMs.
ATMs at Japanese post offices, which are ubiquitous in Japan, and Seven-Eleven
stores provide cash against the following credit cards - Visa, Mastercard, American
Express, Diners Club International, PLUS, Maestro, Cirrus and JCB. Most
Japanese bank ATMs do not, nor will they provide access to foreign bank accounts.
International telephoning, cell phones and the internet. Making international
telephone calls and using the internet outside of major urban areas can be difficult
or impossible. Please bring a telephone charge card issued by your local telephone
company, such as AT&T, BT and Telstar. These can be used almost anywhere.
The Japanese cell, or mobile, phone system uses a specialised CDMA technology
which is incompatible with most overseas systems. Some G3, Blackberry
smartphones and iPhones operate in Japan, however, please confirm with your
provider whether your phone set will work. If your phone does not work in Japan
you may like to rent a cell phone from providers such as NTT Docomo, Cellhire,
Mobalrental, Worldroam, Softbank, etc.
Tipping. There is no tipping in Japan. No Japanese expects or will solicit tips.
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Japanese words & phrases
Japanese words & phrases
Note: adding the bracketed word makes the phrase more polite.
Yes
hai
No
iie
Thank you
arigatou (gozaimasu)
Don’t mention it
dou itashimashite
Excuse me
sumimasen
I am sorry
sumimasen
Good morning
ohayou (gozaimasu)
Hello, good day
konnichiwa
Good evening
konbanwa
Good night
oyasumi (nasai)
It’s fine weather
today, isn’ it?
otenki desu ne
How are you?
(o)genki desu ka
Very well, thank you genki desu
Breakfast
Lunch
Dinner
Meal in a box
Chopsticks
[Green tea] please? [Ocha] o kudasai
Another [orange juice] please
[orenji jusu,] mou hitotsu kudasai
How much is that?
ikura / (o)ikura desu ka
I am James
watashi wa Jaimuzu desu
I am American
watashi wa Amerika-jin/desu
Nice to meet you
Grilled skewered chicken
yakitori
Cooked rice
gohan
Tofu/soya bean curd
toufu
Miso/fermented
soya bean paste
miso
Salad
sarada
Rice wrapped in seaweed
onigiri
Rice cakes
mochi
Rice crackers
(o)sembei
Savoury pancake
okonomiyaki
May I have the bill please?
(o)kanjou kudasai
hajimemashite
Do you speak English?
eigo ohanashimasu ka
asa gohan
hiru gohan
ban gohan
bentou
(o)hashi
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Big/small
Cheap/expensive
Good/bad
oukii/chisaii
yasui/takaii
ii/yokunai
One
Two
Three
Four
Five
hitotsu
futatsu
mitsu
yotsu
itsutsu
Japanese etiquette
Japanese etiquette
The Japanese are forgiving towards
their foreign guests. However, there
are a few essentials to abide by and
other manners that will be quietly
appreciated by your hosts. Some
manners may seem a bit oppressive
when read here but in practice are
much less onerous. If in doubt ask
your Walk Japan tour leader.
Essential manners
Never enter a house or ryokan,
Japanese inn, with your shoes on.
Within the entrance there is usually a
step up into the building proper.
Slippers, which are to wear inside,
lined up awaiting use are another
common indicator that you are at the
appropriate place to remove your
shoes. Ideally, you should slip out of
your shoes, stepping straight up into
the interior and not walk around in
stockinged or bare feet in the
entrance way.
Do not wear slippers into tatami,
straw mat, rooms. Slip them off and
leave them at the entrance to the
room. Always walk on the tatami in
stockinged or bare feet. Slippers are
also slipped out of when entering a
toilet. Inside you will find another pair
of slippers for exclusive use there.
Always remember to leave them in
the toilet after use and not walk
around the building in them. This is a
faux pas that creates great laughter
and causes your host to quickly
scurry off with the offending articles.
The slipper shuffle does not apply to
public toilets, where you keep your
shoes on.
The Japanese wash before soaking
themselves in the bath. By the side
of each bathtub is a shower unit.
Completely rinse of any soap and
shampoo before getting into the
bath. The bath is shared in turn by
everyone
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so do not empty it after you have bathed.
Also, replace the wood or plastic cover, if
there is one, to the bath. The Japanese
like bathing in fairly hot water (40 ~ 48
degrees centigrade, 104 ~ 118 degrees
Fahrenheit). If you find it too hot you may
add some cold water, but not so much
that it becomes tepid. Others in the bath
queue will not appreciate it. The bathing
etiquette remains the same for onsen, hot
spring baths, although there will be no
cover and you will not be able to control
the bath water temperature.
In hotels with en suite facilities you may
bathe in the same manner as you would
in the west.
Dining manners
Do not stick your chopsticks vertically into
a bowl of rice and leave them there. Do
not pass food to someone else with your
chopsticks. These are both taboo because
they are associated with Buddhist
funerals.
Do not play with, point with, or spear your
food with chopsticks. You may, though,
very occasionally see Japanese
surreptitiously spear a particularly slippery
morsel.
Do not leave your food, especially rice.
You can usually control the amount of rice
you receive and can always have more. If
you have ever grown rice the Japanese
way, which is time-consuming and
laborious, you will appreciate why they
tend not to leave even one grain. Never
pour soy sauce over rice. Japanese rice is
considered good tasting - and it usually is
- and does not need to be ‘spiced up’.
When eating sushi or sashimi, and the like
you will be provided with a separate small
dish for soy sauce. Pour in only
Japanese etiquette
as much as you will use. You can
always add more to your dish should
you run out.
Note: A clear refusal of anything,
especially at a time of enjoyment, is
a bit jarring to Japanese sensibilities.
It is polite to say Itadakimasu once
before eating or drinking, and
Gochiso sama deshita to your host
or the restaurant's staff after finishing
your meal.
Other manners
Do not sit on tables
tokonoma, an alcove
displaying a scroll with
theme, flowers, and/or
objet d’art.
or in the
traditionally
a seasonal
a ceramic
In a ryokan your futon will be laid out
for you but if you lay out your own
have it such that your head is
pointing in any direction except
north. Only the deceased are laid out
at funerals with their head to the
north.
Refrain from blowing your nose in
front of other people and only use
paper tissues for the purpose. If you
cannot help having a blow or need to
sneeze turn your back on your
Japanese counterpart. When face to
face a dainty dab or wipe is not
considered rude.
Japanese tend not to eat while
walking along or standing around on
the street. Eating and drinking on
local trains, but not long distance
express trains, is also frowned upon.
When riding on trains and buses turn
your mobile/cell phone to silent
mode and do not use it for
conversation. Text messaging,
though, is not considered a problem
and you will see many younger
Japanese furiously tapping away.
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When visiting a Japanese family
take a small gift. A food item is
ideal. Do not point your finger, feet,
or chopsticks at people. If you have
to indicate a person, object or
direction, wave your fingers with the
palm downwards in the general
direction.
Umbrella stands are often found
outside shops and restaurants. Use
these on rainy days before entering.
Some establishments provide
plastic covers for umbrellas. Slip
this over the wet article and walk in
with it in hand.
If you are given a business or name
card accept it with both hands. First
look at it before carefully putting it
away. If you are sitting at a table,
place the card on the table in front
of you. Do not fold it, play with it, or
write on it especially in front of the
giver. At an appropriate moment,
either at the end of the meeting or
after a reasonable period of time
has elapsed, put it away into your
wallet or card holder.
If you are visiting someone,
especially for business, do not sit
down of your own accord. Allow
your Japanese host to indicate the
seat for you to use. This would, in
normal circumstances, be
considered the best in the room.
WALKJAPAN Educational - Study Notes Day 1
Introduction to the Nakasendo
The Nakasendo was one of five principal highways, or Gokaido, established under the
Tokugawa shogunate regime (1600-) that were to be used as official routes that the
daimyo, or feudal lords, had to follow on sankin-kotai, or system of alternate residence,
processions. This system demanded that daimyo live in Edo (Tokyo) for set periods; while
their wives and heirs had to remain hostage in Edo when the daimyo was absent. The
daimyo had to use highways designated by the shogunate when travelling between Edo
and their domains: 39 of them were instructed to use the Nakasendo.
The five roads also served to speed passage of personnel and dispatches, both of which
were crucial to the Tokugawa Shoguns' attempts to stabilise and rule the nation. Barriers
were built to inspect and control traffic, while post-towns were established to provide
accommodation as well as local transport services. With the passage of time, the roads
were also used by unofficial travellers and merchants. The roads effectively enabled
control of the nation, centralised on the shogun's power base at Edo. In time, they also
stimulated the growth of a nationwide, market economy.
The Tokaido was the most important highway as most daimyo based in regions to the
west of Edo were directed to travel along it. Its post-towns generally had between 50 to
200 inns and 100 horses and porters. The Nakasendo, which had a lower level of traffic,
was considered the second most important highway. Its 69 post-towns had around 20 to
30 inns and maintained 25 to 50 horses and porters to service travel.
The five roads were directly controlled by the shogunate, which appointed officials to
ensure the roads and post-towns were well maintained and the roads functioned properly
overall. A visit by road officials was a period of stress for any town or village along the
route as it usually implied that there was a problem. If so, someone or the whole local
population would suffer.
The Route of the
Nakasendo Way
from Kyoto to Tokyo.
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 1
Hiroshige.
Hiroshige is the given name of Utagawa Hiroshige (1797-1858), the woodblock print artist
and illustrator best known for his landscapes.
Hiroshige's father was a hereditary retainer of the shogun and acted as an official of the
firefighting group entrusted with the protection of Edo castle. The position was stable and
relatively undemanding. Hiroshige, as the eldest son, inherited his father's status and job.
It is likely that his salary was insufficient for his needs, motivating him to look into artistic
crafts to supplement his income.
After being rejected by the school of the popular ukiyoe artist Utagawa Toyokuni, he
began studying under Utagawa Toyohiro at the age of 15. However, he showed little sign
of artistic genius and did not publish many works. Despite soon earning his master’s
approval, Hiroshige's first genuinely original publications came six years later, in 1818. His
‘Eight Views of Lake Biwa and ‘Ten Famous Places in the Eastern Capital’ (i.e. Edo) were
moderately successful. It was not until publication in 1831 of his ‘Famous Places in the
Eastern Capital’ that he attracted public attention.
In 1832, Hiroshige was invited to join a procession along the Tokaido of shogun officials to
the imperial court at Kyoto and back to Edo. His subsequent series of prints, ‘The FiftyThree Stations of the Tokaido’, was very successful. The series consisted of a print of
each of the 53 stations along the road. The series achieved such great success that he
subsequently undertook some 20 other series of prints focused on the Tokaido.
In the mid-1830s, he travelled along the Nakasendo highway, contributing 46 designs to a
series of 69 views of this highway with Keisai Eisen executing the remainder. Hiroshige
also did print series on Osaka and Kyoto, but it was for his various series on Edo and on
highways that he achieved the greatest reputation during and after his life. The highway
prints provide accurate representations of the roads, post-towns, pilgrims, and travel
methods of his day. Some of the scenes he depicted are still recognisable today,
particularly in the Kiso Valley section of the Nakasendo.
Hiroshige’s Print for the post
town of Oi; modern day Ena city
and where we start our journey.
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 2
Morning - Ena to Nakatsugawa
We start our journey in Ena as it is called now; Oi as it was called in the Edo period.
Oi-juku was the 46th post-town on the Nakasendo from Edo. It was a prosperous place,
due to that fact that Oi-juku was also a stop on the road between Nagoya (and Ise Shrine
in current Mie Prefecture) and Zenkoji Temple (located in current Nagano Prefecture).
We start our day with a quick visit to the Hiroshige Print Museum in town. It has a fine
collection of prints and a good exhibition on the print making process, and you can try
your hand at making your own prints.
Oi post-town lies at the far end of the modern town. The road to it passes through the
modern night life area, hotels, and restaurants, to the railway station area. Beyond the
station the old post-town area is well preserved. In this area, the highway may date back
to around 1100 or before, but Oi itself had 175 households and 1,227 people in the
1790s, a medium sized post-town.
The area around the former honjin is well preserved. The gateway to the honjin, the
surrounding ordinary inns, and the double masugata road shape have all survived to this
day. Leaving Ena, there is a kosatsuba and then some industrial estates. The old highway
quickly turns into paved country road which runs through a rolling valley. After about 7
miles through nearly continuous farm villages, the road enters Nakatsugawa. The road
descends a hill and is obstructed by a masugata which signals the beginning of the old
post-town. Near Nakatsugawa train station, the Nakasendo has been gentrified with
attractive sidewalks and shops lining the way.
One of the larger post-towns in the Edo period, Nakatsugawa had a population of 1220 in
the 1790s. In addition to its post-town function, Nakatsugawa was also an important local
market and retail center. The town stretched for over two-thirds of a mile along the
highway, with numerous shops selling rice, sake, soy sauce, salt, clothing and other
general supplies, as well as over 30 inns.
Entering the town along the old Nakasendo, a number of Edo period shops and houses
survive around the former masugata. These include a sake shop with the traditional sake
brewers sign of a ball made from cedar cuttings.
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 2
What to look out for:
1) Oi Honjin
The honjin was the principal inn in a post-town
along Japan’s old highways. A very large
establishment, the honjin only provided lodging to
the highest ranking official travelers although as
time passed, rich merchants were able to
purchase lodging if official visitors were not
present. A few post-towns had a second honjin.
2) Masugata
The road through most post-towns and castle towns takes an apparently inexplicable
right-angled bend or a combination of two such bends. The bend in the road made it
impossible to see in which direction the road progressed. It also made it impossible to see
the honjin from afar, which would normally have been the target for assassins seeking to
get rid of the (temporary) occupant who might be a prominent daimyo.
3) Kosatsuba
Kosatsuba were public announcement boards
placed at strategic locations so that the important
and long-standing orders of the Tokugawa
shogunate (1603-1868) could be made widely
known to the general public. Along the
Nakasendo, the boards were prominently
positioned so that they would be seen by travelers
as they entered each post-town.
4) Sake (Rice Wine) Brewery
This can be identified by the traditional
sign of a ball made from cedar
cuttings.
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 2
Afternoon - Nakatsugawa to Shinchaya
Leaving Nakatsugawa the road twists around another masugata, passing a replica of the
official proclamation board (kosatsuba). For the next two and a half miles the highway
makes a series of short but steep ascents and descents across a line of ridges running
down from Mount Ena to the east. From the top of the last of these ridges a spectacular
view is offered of the gorge above Ochiai and the modern bridge which crosses it.
Descending into the valley, the post-town of Ochiai is reached.
Ochiai had a population of 370 people and 35 houses of which 14 were inns in 1841,
rather dwarfed by its larger neighbor, Nakatsugawa. Ochiai is well preserved, and has an
unusual exhibit in the centre of the post town - a giant cooking pot commemorating the
passage of Princess Kazunomiya and her vast retinue in 1861.
Leaving Ochiai, there is a joyato just before a masugata which turns to the left. The
highway starts to climb. Soon, it begins to run through rolling hills and there are some
short steep climbs with increasingly spectacular views back toward Nakatsugawa and the
Kiso river. The Kiso river again has very steep gorges in this area, so the Nakasendo
keeps a short way to the south of it. Along the way is a small temple which once
specialized in an herbal medicine that was said to be especially suitable for sword cuts.
There was considerable ishidatami laid to provide safe footing, some of which is original,
although much has been replaced recently by the local historical society.
Shinchaya (literally “new tea house”) is located just across the border separating Gifu and
Nagano prefectures. It is one of the tateba created as a resting place between posttowns. Today it still has two small tea houses, one dating back well over a hundred years.
There is a restored an ichirizuka on the outskirts of the town to the left of the road,
originally described in Shimzaki Toson’s novel, ‘Before the Dawn’. The most famous spot
in Shinchaya, however, is the rock which has been inscribed in the hand of Toson: ‘North
from here is the Kiso road’.
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 2
What to look out for:
1) Ochiai Giant Cooking Pot
The giant cooking pot on display in Ochiai commemorates
the procession of Princess Kazunomiya in 1862.
Kazunomiya was an imperial princess and sister to
Emperor Komei (reigned 1846-67) who was married to the
shogun, Tokugawa Iemochi, in 1862 in a political alliance
designed to unify imperial court and the shogunate.
Kazunomiya traveled from Kyoto to Edo along the
Nakasendo in 1861, placing great strain on the resources
of the highway.
The wedding party had a serious impact on the
style appropriate to an Imperial princess betrothed to a Tokugawa shogun. Kazunomiya
required various attendants and maids-in-waiting and a huge guard of samurai. A party
of 15,000 traveled to Kyoto to fetch her and another 10,000 imperial guards joined the
procession to Edo. This vast train took three days to pass any single point.
To move such a large party along the highway put great strain on the road's resources.
According to some records, post-towns had to supply 2,500 porters and 200 horses the
day before the procession arrived and 8,000 men and 3,000 horses on the days it was
passing. Kumagaya post-town had to draft men and animals from 32 surrounding
villages to meet the demands of the procession. The procession was necessarily slow
and it took 26 days to make a journey that most travellers covered in about two weeks.
2) Joyato
At nightfall, with no street lights along the way,
traveling became difficult, if not hazardous. In
order to assist travelers, stone lanterns were
erected at each end of the post-towns to act as
guiding beacons. They were lit at dusk and
would remain burning until dawn – hence the
name joyato or ‘all-night lights’. Similar
lanterns were also found outside shrines.
Many survive today, demarcating the limits of
the original post-towns.
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 2
3) Herbal Medicine Temple.
The monks at this temple traditionally sold
ointment to toughen up the feet of weary
travellers.
4) Ishidatami
Ishidatami or ‘paving stones’ were laid down on
rough patches of road, particularly over the
mountain passes which were steep at the top
and prone to erosion in the rainy season.
Stones were laid carefully so that porters and
carriers would have sure footing when they
most needed it. Other than this, no attempt was
made to pave the highways.
5) Ichirizuka
One of the aids for both travelers and the people
who worked on the highways in the early Edo
period were regular distance markers - large
earthen mounds known as ichirizuka. The literal
meaning is ‘one ri mound’, a ri being a standard
measure of distance equivalent to 2.44 miles. In
other words, mounds of earth were piled up,
usually one on each side of the road, for every ri
traveled from Edo. Although the mounds were
prominent, they were made more distinctive by
planting a tree on the top.
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 2
6) “North from here, the Kiso Road”
This stone inscription, indicating the start of the Kiso
section of the Nakasendo, is written in the hand of
Shimazaki Toson (1872-1943). Many literary figures in
Japan have connections to the Nakasendo, but Toson
has the closest and longest association. Toson was born
and raised in Magome and he wrote at length in his
novels about the Nakasendo and, in particular Magome
and Kiso-Fukushima, where he had relatives by
marriage.
In his last novel, 'Before the Dawn', Toson departed from
the autobiographical form and wrote a semi-historical,
semi-fictional account of his father's life during the period
of the Meiji restoration. His family was of the farmer class
in the Edo period, but as hereditary headmen of Magome
village and owners of the honjin were well off. His father
represents the experience of a member of the rural elite
striving to come to terms with and participate in the vast
changes of the Meiji era.
7) Basho Haiku Poem
Scattered along the Nakasendo, at Shinchaya,
Shimo-suwa, and Karuizawa, are rocks on
which are inscribed poems. Composed by
Basho, the poems evoke the local landscape at
a particular time of year and are much
appreciated by local residents who have erected
the stone memorials to the poet.
Basho was a master poet who developed poetry,
especially what has come to be known as the
haiku poem with a 5-7-5 syllable format, to a
high level. Basho is also famous for the many long journeys which he immortalized in a
series of travelogues combining poetry and prose. These were also great achievements
in their genre.
In 1688 he departed on a trip trough Gifu, the Kiso valley and Sarashina to see the
moonshine at Obasuteyama, where old women were sometimes abandoned on the
mountain at the end of their lives. The poem which is inscribed on the rock at Shinchaya
was written on this trip.
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 3
Morning - Shinchaya to the Magome Pass
The road continues for a mile through pleasant farmland before Magome is reached.
Turning back to face Ochiai the traveler is rewarded with a breathtaking view across the
foothills of Mount Ena and the valley below.
Although completely destroyed by fire in 1895 the rebuilding of Magome followed
traditional lines and the town seems to have successfully preserved the atmosphere and
feel of the Edo period. Formerly a remote and rather obscure post-town, this image has
been changed due to the writings of Shimazaki Toson, Magome’s most famous son. His
novel “Before the Dawn” is a semi-biographical account of Toson’s father when he was
the honjin and headman of the town at the time of the Meiji Restoration. Still widely read
today, Toson’s novel now attracts tens of thousands of literary pilgrims to Magome each
year.
The town stretches up a steep hill. Coaches drop off tourists at the souvenir shops
clustered at the bottom of the hill, allowing them to walk up the old Nakasendo which is
now closed to modern traffic. The road is lined on both sides with period inns, restaurants,
and shops selling local products, creating a lively atmosphere. Most visitors eventually
find their way to the site of the old honjin where Toson was born in 1872. Only a part of
the original buildings remained after the fire of 1895, and a memorial hall to the author
has now been built there. Beyond this the town continues for some way further, until the
site of the kosatsuba is reached near the top of the hill.
Beyond here the number of people on the old Nakasendo falls dramatically, as most
visitors make their way back down the hill again to their coaches. Many will be driven
along the modern road to the next post-town, Tsumago.
From Magome the old highway heads for Magome-toge, the final barrier to entry into the
Kiso valley. Along the way the village of Toge (lit. ‘Pass’) offers a similar Edo period scene
to Magome, but the atmosphere is quieter and more restrained since fewer tourists come
here. Shortly after the pass itself is reached.
The descent to Tsumago is through ancient woodland accompanied by the sounds of
birdsong and babbling streams. A tea house, next to a weeping cherry tree, adds to the
charm. Nearby is the site of a former barrier station, set up in the Edo period to check all
travelers and ensure that nobody smuggled valuable Kiso timber out of the valley illegally.
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 3
What to look out for
1) Shinto shrine gate at Magome
Shinto is Japan’s native religion, and Shinto shrines
are notable for their location and their architecture.
These are commonly in places of natural beauty and
where worship is made to deities drawn from the
immediate surroundings such as rocks, wind, sun,
water springs and trees. The entrance to a shrine is
usually marked by a torii, a distinctive gate, and
shimenawa, a straw rope attached to which are
gohei, folded white paper strips. The shimenawa
indicates the sanctity of the shrine precincts, the
shrine building itself or the object of worship - a
uniquely shaped rock or an ancient tree, for example.
2) ‘Tateba” Tea house and Lumber checkpoint between Tsumago and Magome
Tateba or rest stops were located mid-way
between post-towns. Typically, they were a small
cluster of tea houses which were unofficially
established by local people who took advantage
of the needs of travelers who would stop for a rest
and some refreshment before moving on to the
next official post-town. Today, some tateba have
disappeared entirely and some are merely an
isolated tea house or liquor store. Others grew
large enough to justify a railroad station and have
become bustling urban centers in their own right.
The checkpoint adjacent to the tateba was
charged with watching for smugglers who dealt in
the valuable lumber of the valley. During the Edo
period, the ruling samurai class put so much
value on the wood that common people were
prohibited from cutting the five trees of the Kiso
river valley.
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 3
Afternoon - Magome Pass to Tsumago
After a further twenty minutes or so along footpaths the roar of the Odaki – Medaki
waterfalls can be heard in the valley below. From the fading roar of the Odaki-Medaki
waterfalls the Nakasendo descends steeply through a deep valley which resonates to the
rushing sound of smaller streams.
Breaking out of the woodlands into the broader Kiso valley the small hamlet of O-tsumago
is reached. The buildings are wonderfully preserved in the traditional, provincial style of
Shinano (modern Nagano prefecture). Leaving O-tsumago the route of the old
Nakasendo is traced along footpaths and a narrow country road until Tsumago itself is
reached after just fifteen minutes’ walking. The scenery along the way is picturesque, and
many of the old farms and inns perched on the slopes of the surrounding woodland still
have traditional waterwheels in operation.
In 1841 Tsumago had a population of just 418 people, living in 83 households of which 31
were inns. The town was relatively small compared to others on the Nakasendo and,
given its remote location at the southern end of the Kiso Valley, seems to have been an
obscure place of no special note. Today the situation is very different. As a tourist
destination Tsumago is arguably the most popular of all the post-towns on the
Nakasendo, and pictures of the charming, ‘authentic’ Edo main street are well-known
throughout Japan.
The modern success of Tsumago stems partly from the fact that it always had been a
remote and obscure town. No modern buildings intruded during the economic boom of the
sixties, perhaps because the lack of a railway station meant the boom never echoed here.
In an effort to preserve the character of the town, a decision was made to ban the
installation of above-ground electric and telephone lines, and other on-street modern
intrusions such as vending machines from the old quarters of the town. Perhaps
unnoticed by many tourists today, it is this policy which distinguishes Tsumago from the
vast majority of other historic locations in Japan, and which helps make the town so
photogenic.
This careful preservation of the post-town flavor now draws in bus-loads of tourists
throughout the year, and the income generated by such activity has enabled the
restoration and even rebuilding of many period structures. These include the original
waki-honjin, which boasts a toilet once used by the Emperor Meiji, and a rebuilding of the
honjin itself on the original site.
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 3
What to look out for
1) Giant Sawara Tree
The five varieties of trees which were particularly valued
in the Kiso area were the native evergreens of sawara,
asuhi, koya maki, nezuko and hinoki (Japanese
cypress). All were prized for use in the construction
industry because of their beautiful grain, durability, and
ease of working. The strict controls on logging were
lifted at the end of the Edo period and as a result, few of
these giant trees remain.
2) Odake - Medaki Waterfalls
These two waterfalls that we pass by on the way to Tsumgo are known as male and
female waterfall, and are mentioned in a novel "Miyamoto Musashi" by Yoshikawa Eiji
(1892-1962). Miyamoto Musashi (1584-1645) was the most famous swordsman, teacher
of the Way of the Sword, and ronin (masterless samurai) of the early Edo period. His
story has been enshrined in popular legend, novel and movie; the movie is repeated on
television each New Years in either its 7 or 15-hour version. Ask your leader for the story
behind the name of the waterfall!
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 3
3) Waterwheels
This waterwheel can be found on the edge of
the village of O-Tsumago. Waterwheels are
still sometimes used to provide the power to
grind rice into rice flour.
Notice the roof of the building - large stones
hold it on. This is an example of the Shinano
style of traditional building in the Kiso valley
area of the Nakasendo.
4) Tsumago Waki-honjin
The waki-honjin was the secondary inn in a posttown. The waki-honjin provided lodging to second
ranking official travelers (the highest ranking
travelers stayed at the honjin). Some post-towns
had more than one waki-honjin, depending on the
volume of traffic through the town. The wakihonjin also served as a family home, and is
perfectly preserved.
Attached to the building is a history museum with
many exhibits relating to the Kiso area, including
a giant trunk gifted by Princess Kazunomiya to
the innkeepers as she passed through Tsumago
in 1861.
5)A Imperial Toilet
The Emperor Meiji passed through Tsumago in
1880, taking a short break at the Waki-honjin.
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 4
Tsumago to Kiso-Fukushima
Leaving the town at the location of the old “kosatsuba” (official proclamation board) the
old highway ascends steeply up the valley side to the site of Tsumago castle. The castle
was to defend the southern approaches to the Kiso valley during the Warring States
period, but was dismantled in 1615. From the summit of the hill on which the castle
perched, excellent views can be obtained along the length of the Kiso valley.
The road now meanders through a mixture of forest and farmland, and is one of the most
scenic stretches of the whole journey. The three and a half mile section between Tsumago
and Midono is popular with walkers today because it gives easy access between
Tsumago and the nearest train station, Nagiso. Midono, the old post-town, is slightly
higher up the valley than Nagiso with its station, souvenir shops, supermarkets, and
modern highway.
Midono in 1841 had a population of 594, and 32 inns for travelers. As such it was virtually
indistinguishable from neighboring Tsumago in the Edo period , but today the
disappearance of so many of the old buildings means that it does not attract anything like
the number of tourists that Tsumago receives.
Weather and energy permitting, we now start one of the alternative routes of the old
highway through this area. Our choice avoids the easy riverside way which is now
overlaid by a busy modern highway. Instead, we take the original route of the Nakasendo
here. Over 3~4 hours, it takes us gradually higher and higher through quiet farming
hamlets until we ascend through a forest to Ne-no-ue Pass. At many points along our
climb we see the remains of the extensive narrow-gauge logging railway system that once
reached far into the mountains.
From the pass it is a steep descent for an hour to Nojiri train station. This is the longest
and one of the most difficult section of our whole walk, but it rewards one with alpine
vistas of the Japan Alps. Our 40-minute rail journey takes us to Kiso-Fukushima where we
spend the night at a ryokan in the middle of town.
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 4
What to look out for
1) Site of Tsumago Castle
This castle site, offering excellent views back
to Tsumago and the Magome pass in one
direction, and to Nagiso and Midono in the
other, was an extremely advantageous
location.
In 1584, it was the scene of a long siege and
several skirmishes as 7000 Tokugawa
Shogunate forces attempted unsuccessfully to
pass through the area, held off by a force of
only 300 local soldiers.
2) Momosuke Suspension Bridge.
In Japan, the first hydro-electric power was
produced in 1890. After 1912, hydro-electric
plants supplied more than 50% of Japan’s
electricity. Only after World War II did the
balance between power from thermal plants
and power from hydro-electric plants tip in
favor of thermal plants. A major reason for the
early dominance of hydro-electric power can
be seen in valleys like the Kiso river valley.
The river descends quickly and steadily during
its short run and so it is easy to put up a medium sized dam and derive a great deal of
energy. Although the rains are not absolutely predictable, they are regular enough to
make water power a cheap and reasonable option.
Fukuzawa Momosuke (1868-1938) was a wealthy industrialist who recognised the
potential for hydro-electric power in the Kiso valley. This bridge was originally
constructed to assist in transporting materials for the construction of a dam.
Momosuke is also known for his relationship with the famous actress and dancer
Kawakami Sadayakko (1871-1946), who travelled extensively abroad and did much to
bring about the popularity of Japanese performing arts in the Americas and Europe. At
a time when it was considered improper for women to perform on stage with men,
Sadayakko was a groundbreaking and influential figure who defied cultural norms.
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 4
3) Logging in the Kiso Valley.
The Kiso forest is famous for the quality of its
lumber. During the Edo period, the ruling
samurai class put so much value on the wood
that common people were prohibited from
cutting the five trees of the Kiso river valley.
Shimazaki Toson’s novel Before the Dawn
relates in the first few pages the case of
villagers who were caught and tried for
breaking the law in this respect. They were
tried and placed in manacles for an indefinite
period of time. The officials in charge of the
trial made a great point of relating how execution would have been the punishment in
the early decades of the Edo period. Governments made large revenues by
establishing monopolies on harvesting and selling the forests’ products.
The five varieties trees which were particularly valued in the Kiso valley were the native
evergreens of sawara, asuhi, koya maki, nezuko and hinoki (Japanese cypress). The
forest also had scatterings of cherry (sakura), pine (matsu) and zelkova (keyaki, a
relative of the elm but native to Japan) mixed in. All were prized for use in the
construction industry because of their beautiful grain, durability, and ease of working.
When restrictions were lifted on cutting the Kiso trees, many commoners were quick to
invest in rebuilding their homes. Many a home or inn on the Nakasendo was quickly
transformed into buildings of great beauty. The waki-honjin at Tsumago was one
building that was quickly reconstructed in cypress after the restrictions were lifted early
in the Meiji period.
As a result, a hundred years ago, the Kiso forest was seriously overcut and depleted.
Replanting has re-established the forest, but the forest is planned and managed rather
than wild.
Shinto shrines are generally built of unfinished wood from the five trees. The Kiso has
supplied hinoki trees for the cyclical rebuilding of the Ise Shrines, floating them down
the Kiso river. Cuttings for ritual purposes such as these could only be done by men
since women menstruating are viewed as impure in the Shinto religion. Kiso timber was
also prized for constructing government buildings and the mansions of the daimyo in
the Edo period.
30
WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 5
Morning - Kiso-Fukushima to the Torii Pass
Situated in the center of the Kiso Valley, the city of Kiso-Fukushima is still the main town
of Kiso. In the Muromachi era (1378 – 1573), Kiso-Fukushima was the castle town of the
Kiso family, but this status was lost after the battle of Sekigahara when the whole valley
was brought into the Owari domain, governed from Nagoya. Nevertheless, KisoFukushima remained the headquarters of the special administrator (“daikan”) appointed
by the Tokugawa shogunate to look after the affairs of the valley and its valuable timber
resources. This appointment became the hereditary position of the Yamamura family, a
name still recalled in the area today. The town was also the site of one of the two main
barrier stations along the Nakasendo, set up to scrutinize all traffic along the highway and
to prevent the illegal movement of people.
In the 1840s Kiso-Fukushima had a population of just under one thousand, and the town
boasted 14 inns for ordinary travelers. Today, unusually, the number of inns has actually
increased due to the large numbers of tourists who come here each year. These still
include modern day pilgrims on their way to Mount Ontake, as well as others who come to
look at the old post-town and the recently reconstructed barrier station. The greatest
attraction, however, is the Kiso Valley itself and the mountains on either side of it. In the
summer months come many hikers and anglers while in winter the snow attracts
thousands of skiers. Travel is facilitated by the fact that Kiso-Fukushima is the only
regular express train stop between Nakatsugawa and Matsumoto.
Leaving the post-town through the barrier station (now a museum), the old Nakasendo
follows the modern highway for a while, passing under a huge arch which symbolizes the
barrier gateway shown in Hiroshige’s print of Kiso-Fukushima. Passing the site of an
ichirizuka (mile post), the old road then branches away from the busy Route 19 to follow a
more peaceful route through farmland. On the way to the next post-town of Mienokoshi,
some two and a half miles from Kiso-Fukushima, the traveler passes another marker
informing that the half-way point on the Nakasendo between Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo) has
been reached.
After the next post town of Yabuhara, there is a sharp right turn through a masugata
under the railway. The road now progresses through very quiet countryside, gradually
ascending the valley side before changing into a footpath that begins the climb up Toriitoge. There is a section of ishidatami at the start of the climb up the pass, but most of it
has deteriorated and disappeared. At the summit is a Shinto shrine. In the past, travelers
paused here for the view of Mt. Ontake. This was the first view which pilgrims traveling
from Edo had of the sacred mountain, so a torii was established here and lent its name to
the pass.
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 5
What to look out for
1) The Barrier Station at Kiso Fukushima
The two pictures above show Hiroshige’s print of the Kiso-Fukushima barrier station, and
the reconstructed station as it is today. Seki or barriers were inspection stations originally
erected to collect road-use taxes or to inhibit trade or free movement. In the Edo period,
they were used primarily for security purposes. Travelers were channeled through the
barrier and under the scrutiny of officials whose duty was, in general, to keep a watch on
travelers and in particular to prevent weapons from moving toward Edo and samurai
women from leaving Edo without permission. The weapons might be used against the
government while the departure of women from Edo might encourage a daimyo to
attempt rebellion against the government.
2) Mt Ontake
Mount Ontake as viewed from the Torii pass.
Mount Ontake is an active volcano dominating
the Kiso Valley, but is best known as the domain
of magical mountain spirits. Ontake is a center
of Shinto worship, particularly by the Shugendo
sect which specializes in ascetic practices on
mountains. The Shugendo sect is a very
eclectic sect which combines Shinto beliefs with
Buddhist doctrine and practice. Its believers are
usually called yamabushi (lit. ‘mountain warriors’), who may often be hermits. Shugendo
emerged in the 12th century as a result of the joining of solitary hermits who had fled
Buddhist monasteries to seek magical and medical powers through fasting, meditation
and ascetic practices such as standing under cold mountain waterfalls or in snow.
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 5
Afternoon - the Torii Pass to Narai
The Nakasendo is a mere path as it descends from Torii-toge to Narai. This is a
somewhat wild area, precipitous and prone to landslides. There have been a series of
major landslides in recent years which have destroyed the original path and forced a
detour around it. The detour rejoins the Nakasendo after several hundred yards. A sign
here commemorates one of many attempts by Takeda Katsuyori, son of Takeda Shingen,
to break into the Kiso valley during the Warring States period. Katsuyori led 2,000
samurai, but they were ambushed and lost 500 men before retreating back to their base.
The path continues through well established woodland to some more ishidatami near the
bottom. Here a small road appears and offers a spectacular view of Narai before the final
descent into the town.
Narai has been carefully preserved, especially along the Nakasendo, although not to the
extent that Tsumago has been. It seems more to have lain fallow until it was rediscovered
by tourists in the 1970s, so in many ways it seems more ‘realistic’ or authentic than other
popular ‘museum’ post-towns on the Nakasendo. At the entry of the town is a Shinto
shrine on the left, then the joyato and a medium-sized replica of the kosatsuba. Most of
the buildings in the town are in the traditional fashion of a post-town, although few of them
are much more than a century old. Narai has become famous as a tourist spot and there
are many shops selling curios to travelers and many inns.
In the center of the old town are three former inns which continue to function; Echigoya,
Aburaya, and Tokuriya. The latter in particular is known throughout Japan as a classic
example of Nagano prefecture folk architecture. Today, Tokuriya serves simple lunches
and drinks in the evening around an open fire, but modern fire regulations prevent guests
staying overnight.
Look out for..
Traditional buildings in Narai
Notice how the second floor
overhangs the first, with eaves
sloping further to overhang the
entire building and protect the
interior from rain.
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WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 6
Morning - Narai to Kiso-Hirasawa
Passing the train station, the Nakasendo follows a newer road past modern houses until
it crosses the train tracks to emerge on the national highway which has bypassed Narai.
It soon enters a small town, Hirasawa, which specializes in making lacquerware. In the
past, the townspeople used local woods to make common utensils such as lunch boxes.
Now, the few surviving craftsmen have achieved national recognition for their
manufacture of top-quality lacquer ware products. Few tourists come to Narai without a
quick shopping trip to this village.
Look out for...
Shops selling lacquerware
Afternoon - Nagoya and Osu Kannon
Osu Kannon is a popular temple of the Shingon sect of Buddhism, built in the classic
Chinese pagoda temple style. Osu Kannon was originally located in Osu of the Mino
district, but it came to have strong ties to Japan’s rulers and Tokugawa Ieyasu moved it
to its present site in 1612 when he also built Nagoya Castle. Its main temple was
destroyed by fire but was rebuilt in 1970. Near the Osu Kannon is a commercial district
with many restaurants, clothing stores, and discount computer shops.
Look out for...
Osu Kannon Shrine
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WALKJAPAN Educational
KISO VALLEY
PAGE 3 / 4
Map of the Kiso Valley and the Nakasendo Way (JNTO).
To Shiojiri 塩尻
Niekawa Sta.
Niekawa
贄川駅
Kiso-Hirasawa
Kiso Valley
Narai
Kiso-Hirasawa Sta.
木曽平沢
木曽平沢駅
NaraiNarai
Sta.
奈良井
奈良井駅
?
Kiso-no-Ohashi Bridge
木曽の大橋
Torii Pass
鳥居峠
Ontake
Prefectural Park
御岳県立公園
Yabuhara
Yabuhara
Sta.
薮原駅
薮原
Kaida Heights
開田高原
Mt. Ontake
御嶽山
Harano Sta.
原野駅
Ontake Heights
御岳高原
Y
Kiso
Ryojo-an
木曽旅情庵
Kiso-Fukushima Sta.
木曽福島駅
N
Lake Ontake
御岳湖
Agematsu
Sta.
Agematsu
上松駅
Nezame-no-toko
寝覚の床
Miyanokoshi Sta.
宮ノ越駅
Kisokoma Heights
木曽駒高原
Mt. Kiso-Komagatake
駒ヶ岳
Mt. Hoken
宝剣山
Nezame Hotel
ねざめホテル
Chuo (Central) Alps
Prefectural Park
中央アルプス県立公園
Akazawa Woods
赤沢自然休養林
KuramotoSta.
Kuramoto
倉本駅
Mt. Karaki
空木岳
?
Okuwa Sta.
Okuwa
大桑駅
Y
Suhara
SuwaraSta.
須原駅
Nojiri Sta.
野尻駅
Nozokido Forest Park
のぞきど森林公園
Kakizore Ravine
柿其渓谷
Junikane
Junikane Sta.
十二兼駅
Tadachi Falls
田立の滝
Traffic Network
Tadachi Sta.
田立駅
Matsumoto 松本
NagisoSta.
Nagiso
南木曽
南木曽駅
?
Shinshimashima
新島々
Tsumago
Shinjuku 新宿
Tokyo
東京
Narai 奈良井
Kiso-Fukushima 木曽福島
Kamikochi
上高地
Tsumago 妻籠
妻篭
Norikura
乗鞍
Nagiso
南木曽
Nakatsugawa
中津川
Magome 馬籠
馬篭
ne
Li
t)
es )線
(W 西
uo 央(
Ch 中
Nakanoyu
中ノ湯 Hirayu
平湯
Magome Pass
馬篭峠
馬籠峠
Ochiaigawa Sta.
落合川駅
Chuo (East) Line
中央
(東)
線
Tokaido
Tokaido
Shinkansen
Shinkansen
東海道新幹線
Sakashita Sta.
坂下駅
Shiojiri 塩尻
Tajimi
多治見
?
Magome
0
2.5km
5km
To Toyama
富山
To Nakatsugawa 中津川
35
Takayama Line
高山本線
Takayama
高山
Gero
下呂
Mino-Ota
美濃太田
Nagoya
名古屋
WALKJAPAN Educational
Notes:
36