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Nakasendo Way Sample Program
WALKJAPAN Educational 中山道 Nakasendo Way: Japan on Foot 6 nights, 7 days Japan on Foot is a unique walking exploration of Japan, its history and culture. We explore one of the old highways of Japan, the Nakasendo, or 'road through the central mountains'. Once a main thoroughfare of feudal Japan, today the Nakasendo provides a delightful excursion through scenic countryside. En route we will have some fascinating insights into the world of feudal Japan, the samurai and, also, urban and village life today. We stay in atmospheric and beautiful inns, taste a variety of Japanese dishes and share life with the Japanese, some of the most polite and friendliest people in the world. Sights include the big, bright lights of modern Nagoya through to quiet, pretty villages in secluded valleys. We will experience the Japanese way of life including sleeping on futons, bathing in wooden baths and eating while sitting on tatami mat floors. We will learn why the Nakasendo existed and about the great shogun leader Tokugawa Ieyasu, whose dynasty ruled Japan for over 260 years. We will experience the tea ceremony, traditional folk singing, and try our hand at woodblock printmaking. Of course, you will also have the chance to learn some Japanese. Some final treats include Karaoke and shopping in Nagoya. www.walkjapan.com Contents Contents Meeting instructions............................................... 3 Itinerary.................................................................... 4 Packing List............................................................. 8 Travel Advice (Diet, Health and Safety)................. 10 Japanese words & phrases .................................. 12 Japanese etiquette................................................. 13 Day-specific study notes ..................................... 15 Maps ..................................................................... 35 2 Meeting instructions Meeting Instructions Meeting time: ***** Where: ***** Flight: ***** Departure time: ***** Do not be late Do not forget essential documents: PASSPORT and *****. 3 Itinerary Itinerary Day 1. ***** - Nagoya - Ena Flight no: ***** ! Departure time:***** Arrival time in Nagoya: ***** Meet in the Departure Area ***** Arrive Centrair (Nagoya) Airport. Transfer by train to Ena for our first night in an inn. Full briefing with your tour leader on the days ahead. Stay in a Japanese Inn. Dinner provided. Accommodation: Japanese Inn Day 2. Ena - Nakatsugawa - Yamaguchi Visit the excellent Hiroshige Print Museum in Ena. In the museum we will learn about the print making process, make our own prints and see some made by the experts. We then begin the day's walk across rolling countryside to Nakatsugawa, an old post town and now a pleasant regional town. Time here for lunch before our afternoon walk in hilly countryside to Shinchaya inn. Experience of the tea ceremony with a tea master in the evening. Total walking about 16km. Stay in a Japanese inn. Breakfast, lunch and dinner provided. Accommodation: Japanese Inn 4 Itinerary Day 3. Yamaguchi - Magome -O-Tsumago Walk to Magome post-town, the home of Japan's first modern novelist, Shimazaki Toson and author of Before the Dawn. Time here to freely explore this pleasant old town and purchase lunch. Then, onwards along the old highway via quiet roads and forest paths to Otsumago, a small cluster of inns. Stay in an old, traditional inn. Visit the original, high-class inn, now museum, in Tsumago. Enjoy an evening bath at a mountain top hot spring before dinner and then folk singing with a local expert. Total walking about 11km. Stay in a Japanese inn. Breakfast, lunch & dinner provided. Accommodation: Japanese Inn Day 4. O-Tsumago - Tsumago - Nagiso - Kiso-Fukushima Continue walking the Nakasendo to Nagiso. At Nagiso visit the Momosuke Bridge. Learn about how Momosuke developed hydroelectric power in the Kiso Valley. Also learn about Sadayakko, the most famous geisha of her age who led a colourful life. Depending on weather and ambitions, either continue to Nojiri with a picnic on the way (total walking 22km), or transfer directly by train to Kiso-Fukushima (total walking 8km). Stroll around Kiso-Fukushima and visit a street-side hot spring. Stay in a Japanese inn. Breakfast, lunch and dinner provided. Accommodation: Japanese Inn Day 5. Kiso-Fukushima - Tori Pass - Narai Visit the local reconstructed barrier station, a check-point on the old highway. Walk on through the narrowing Kiso valley, passing the halfway point between Kyoto and Tokyo, take a train for a short journey before our walk over the Torii Pass to Narai, another picturesque post-town. Total walking about 8km. Stay in a Japanese inn. Breakfast, lunch and dinner provided. Accommodation: Japanese Inn 5 Itinerary Day 6. Narai - Nagoya Relax in Narai. Optional visit to a lacquerware craftsman's house and studio in a neighbouring town, a 30 minute walk further along the Nakasendo. Return to Nagoya by train. Visit Osu Kannon shrine and its surrounding shopping district. After dinner partake in a Japanese favourite, Karaoke, for a celebratory end to our tour. Stay in a Japanese hotel. Breakfast, lunch and dinner provided. Internet available. Accommodation:Western Hotel Day 7. Nagoya - Centrair (Nagoya) Airport - Hong Kong Transfer with Walk Japan tour leader to Nagoya Airport for return flight home. Flight no: *****! Departure time: ***** Arrival time in ******: ***** Breakfast included. This itinerary may be subject to change. 6 Notes Notes 1. This itinerary is subject to change. 2. This itinerary is ground only, beginning and ending in Centrair (Nagoya) Airport. The group will be met as a group at Centrair Airport by the Walk Japan tour leader. All travel according to the itinerary in Japan is included in the tour. 3. The Walk Japan tour leader is an experienced guide, fluent in English and Japanese, and knowlegeable about many aspects of Japan. 4. Meals provided in the tour are noted in the itinerary above. Japanese cuisine is as varied as it is high in quality. 5. Japanese inns are traditional Japanese style accommodation, where we will also enjoy some excellent Japanese cuisine. Hotels will be comfortable and clean family-type accommodation. Internet availability will be noted in due course. 6. Entrance fees for guided visits to museums etc are included. 7. There is no porter service in Japan. One piece of luggage, besides a day pack for walking, per person is advised. 7 Packing List Packing List To help maintain a comfortable body temperature while walking it is best to have a number of layers of clothing that can be easily peeled off or added on as required. Please be prepared for rain. Also, a hat is recommended for warmth and to ward off the sun. Please remember a sense of humour, curiosity and sensitivity too! Hat ! ! ! ! ! Rain resistant outer jacket !! ! Rain resistant outer trousers ! ! Warm Fleece-style jacket/zip up top!! Warm trousers (2 pairs)! ! ! T-shirts/Long sleeved shirts (7 sets)!! Warm hiking socks (7 pairs)! ! Underwear (7 sets) Gloves ! ! ! ! ! Scarf ! ! ! ! ! Night clothing – slacks/leggings & top ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! o o o o o o o ! ! ! ! ! ! o o o N.B. Yukata, evening gowns, will be provided at our lodgings. These may be worn for dinner and to sleep in. A warm over–jacket will also be provided. However, it is a good idea to also bring slacks/leggings and a top to wear underneath the Yukata and help ward off any cold air. Water resistant hiking boots! Athletic shoes ! ! ! Small daypack/backpack! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! o o o The daypack is to carry water bottle, camera, spare clothing, etc. while walking. Our main luggage will be sent ahead by vehicle on each morning to our next lodgings. Collapsible umbrella (Optional)! ! Small towel! ! ! ! Sunglasses ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Personal medication! ! ! Toothbrush and toothpaste!! ! Personal Shampoo, comb, brush, etc! Skin lotion, suntan lotion, chapstick! ! Packets of tissue / toilet roll! ! 8 ! ! ! ! ! ! o o o ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! o o o o o Packing list N.B. Soap and shampoo will be provided at our lodgings. Also, mosquitoes, etc. will not be a problem at this time of year and insect repellent unnecessary. Rucksack / Wheeled suitcase! ! ! ! o A medium suitcase with wheels or medium to large sized rucksack should be sufficient to contain everything for this tour. Passport!! ! ! ! ! *****! ! ! ! ! ! Camera! and film/memory and charger (Optional)! ! ! ! o o o The electricity current in Japan is 120 volt and plugs are the same style as those in the USA. Pencil/pen! ! ! Notebook! ! ! Refillable water bottle (Optional)! Snacks for the trail (Optional) ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! o o o o Prior to departure (Spending money) You should buy yen before departure to carry with you. Changing any currency into yen in Japan is inconvenient and time-consuming, so bring with you what you need. Snacks and drinks can cost up to 1500 yen a day. Gifts range from 500 yen up. Plan spending money accordingly. 9 Travel advice Travel advice Ability to accommodate Special Dietary Requirements: When the group stays in traditional Japanese inns, the dinners and breakfasts are decided weeks in advance using local produce available in that region. Meals usually include raw and cooked fish, meat, and vegetables. In Japan, specific dietary requirements such as vegetarianism, kosher food, and a number of food-related allergies and problems, such as coeliac disease, are not widely understood nor catered for and we cannot guarantee to provide vegetarian, vegan, kosher, or other specific meals. However, we will endeavour to cater wherever possible to individual requirements, and many vegetarians and vegans have both participated in our programs and enjoyed the food on them. Our general policy is to contact the accommodation we use and notify them of particular requirements. Most, if not all, will be able to provide one or two alternative dishes for participants with specific dietary needs. Please let us know of any requirements well in advance if you have any special dietary needs. Please note that soy sauce, which in Japan always includes wheat, is an ingredient common to many dishes in Japan and there may be a limit to how many dishes can be altered for those who require a gluten-free diet. If you have specific dietary needs we suggest you also bring other food items to help supplement your meals. Health and Safety Overview. There are no compulsory health-related procedures before entering Japan and no vaccinations or prophylactic medicines are required (although Japanese encepalitis inoculations are recommended by some authorities). However, it is the school’s responsibility to ensure that all students are aware of and have taken all medications, vaccinations or health precautions which may be suitable to them well before the tour. Students are responsible for any medicine they may require during the program. Please note that medicine that may be available or prescribed in Japan may differ from other countries. Therefore, students should bring all medicine that you may need. The fact that Japan is one of the safest countries in the world makes this it an ideal destination for young students. PLEASE SEE THE ACCOMPANYING RISK ASSESSMENT DOCUMENT FOR A MORE COMPREHENSIVE HEALTH AND SAFETY OVERVIEW 10 Travel advice Clothing & baggage. It is advisable to bring a variety of layers ranging from tshirts to a top with long sleeves and a sweater/fleece. We recommend good quality walking shoes/boots. You may also like to bring some comfortable, casual shoes — sneakers, sandals, etc. — for use in town. The sun's rays can be strong and we recommend a sun hat, sun screen, etc. A lightweight, packable waterproof and a compact, foldable umbrella should suffice for any inclement weather. (Note, 24-hour stores, which are found almost everywhere in Japan, sell cheap umbrellas and rain capes). Yukata, evening gowns for sleeping in, are provided at each lodging. However, we recommend leggings, a top, etc. to wear underneath. This will provide a degree of modesty and help ward off any cold air. Coin laundry facilities are not available during this tour. When walking our main luggage is sent on ahead to the next lodgings by vehicle. Each day we carry only what we need (camera, water bottle, note book, rain jacket, etc.) for the walk itself. Access to cash. Exchanging cash or travellers' cheques in major currencies is possible but a very time-consuming exercise. Instead, we recommend alternatives including arriving in Japan with some Japanese currency, using credit cards, and withdrawing cash from ATMs. ATMs at Japanese post offices, which are ubiquitous in Japan, and Seven-Eleven stores provide cash against the following credit cards - Visa, Mastercard, American Express, Diners Club International, PLUS, Maestro, Cirrus and JCB. Most Japanese bank ATMs do not, nor will they provide access to foreign bank accounts. International telephoning, cell phones and the internet. Making international telephone calls and using the internet outside of major urban areas can be difficult or impossible. Please bring a telephone charge card issued by your local telephone company, such as AT&T, BT and Telstar. These can be used almost anywhere. The Japanese cell, or mobile, phone system uses a specialised CDMA technology which is incompatible with most overseas systems. Some G3, Blackberry smartphones and iPhones operate in Japan, however, please confirm with your provider whether your phone set will work. If your phone does not work in Japan you may like to rent a cell phone from providers such as NTT Docomo, Cellhire, Mobalrental, Worldroam, Softbank, etc. Tipping. There is no tipping in Japan. No Japanese expects or will solicit tips. 11 Japanese words & phrases Japanese words & phrases Note: adding the bracketed word makes the phrase more polite. Yes hai No iie Thank you arigatou (gozaimasu) Don’t mention it dou itashimashite Excuse me sumimasen I am sorry sumimasen Good morning ohayou (gozaimasu) Hello, good day konnichiwa Good evening konbanwa Good night oyasumi (nasai) It’s fine weather today, isn’ it? otenki desu ne How are you? (o)genki desu ka Very well, thank you genki desu Breakfast Lunch Dinner Meal in a box Chopsticks [Green tea] please? [Ocha] o kudasai Another [orange juice] please [orenji jusu,] mou hitotsu kudasai How much is that? ikura / (o)ikura desu ka I am James watashi wa Jaimuzu desu I am American watashi wa Amerika-jin/desu Nice to meet you Grilled skewered chicken yakitori Cooked rice gohan Tofu/soya bean curd toufu Miso/fermented soya bean paste miso Salad sarada Rice wrapped in seaweed onigiri Rice cakes mochi Rice crackers (o)sembei Savoury pancake okonomiyaki May I have the bill please? (o)kanjou kudasai hajimemashite Do you speak English? eigo ohanashimasu ka asa gohan hiru gohan ban gohan bentou (o)hashi 12 Big/small Cheap/expensive Good/bad oukii/chisaii yasui/takaii ii/yokunai One Two Three Four Five hitotsu futatsu mitsu yotsu itsutsu Japanese etiquette Japanese etiquette The Japanese are forgiving towards their foreign guests. However, there are a few essentials to abide by and other manners that will be quietly appreciated by your hosts. Some manners may seem a bit oppressive when read here but in practice are much less onerous. If in doubt ask your Walk Japan tour leader. Essential manners Never enter a house or ryokan, Japanese inn, with your shoes on. Within the entrance there is usually a step up into the building proper. Slippers, which are to wear inside, lined up awaiting use are another common indicator that you are at the appropriate place to remove your shoes. Ideally, you should slip out of your shoes, stepping straight up into the interior and not walk around in stockinged or bare feet in the entrance way. Do not wear slippers into tatami, straw mat, rooms. Slip them off and leave them at the entrance to the room. Always walk on the tatami in stockinged or bare feet. Slippers are also slipped out of when entering a toilet. Inside you will find another pair of slippers for exclusive use there. Always remember to leave them in the toilet after use and not walk around the building in them. This is a faux pas that creates great laughter and causes your host to quickly scurry off with the offending articles. The slipper shuffle does not apply to public toilets, where you keep your shoes on. The Japanese wash before soaking themselves in the bath. By the side of each bathtub is a shower unit. Completely rinse of any soap and shampoo before getting into the bath. The bath is shared in turn by everyone 13 so do not empty it after you have bathed. Also, replace the wood or plastic cover, if there is one, to the bath. The Japanese like bathing in fairly hot water (40 ~ 48 degrees centigrade, 104 ~ 118 degrees Fahrenheit). If you find it too hot you may add some cold water, but not so much that it becomes tepid. Others in the bath queue will not appreciate it. The bathing etiquette remains the same for onsen, hot spring baths, although there will be no cover and you will not be able to control the bath water temperature. In hotels with en suite facilities you may bathe in the same manner as you would in the west. Dining manners Do not stick your chopsticks vertically into a bowl of rice and leave them there. Do not pass food to someone else with your chopsticks. These are both taboo because they are associated with Buddhist funerals. Do not play with, point with, or spear your food with chopsticks. You may, though, very occasionally see Japanese surreptitiously spear a particularly slippery morsel. Do not leave your food, especially rice. You can usually control the amount of rice you receive and can always have more. If you have ever grown rice the Japanese way, which is time-consuming and laborious, you will appreciate why they tend not to leave even one grain. Never pour soy sauce over rice. Japanese rice is considered good tasting - and it usually is - and does not need to be ‘spiced up’. When eating sushi or sashimi, and the like you will be provided with a separate small dish for soy sauce. Pour in only Japanese etiquette as much as you will use. You can always add more to your dish should you run out. Note: A clear refusal of anything, especially at a time of enjoyment, is a bit jarring to Japanese sensibilities. It is polite to say Itadakimasu once before eating or drinking, and Gochiso sama deshita to your host or the restaurant's staff after finishing your meal. Other manners Do not sit on tables tokonoma, an alcove displaying a scroll with theme, flowers, and/or objet d’art. or in the traditionally a seasonal a ceramic In a ryokan your futon will be laid out for you but if you lay out your own have it such that your head is pointing in any direction except north. Only the deceased are laid out at funerals with their head to the north. Refrain from blowing your nose in front of other people and only use paper tissues for the purpose. If you cannot help having a blow or need to sneeze turn your back on your Japanese counterpart. When face to face a dainty dab or wipe is not considered rude. Japanese tend not to eat while walking along or standing around on the street. Eating and drinking on local trains, but not long distance express trains, is also frowned upon. When riding on trains and buses turn your mobile/cell phone to silent mode and do not use it for conversation. Text messaging, though, is not considered a problem and you will see many younger Japanese furiously tapping away. 14 When visiting a Japanese family take a small gift. A food item is ideal. Do not point your finger, feet, or chopsticks at people. If you have to indicate a person, object or direction, wave your fingers with the palm downwards in the general direction. Umbrella stands are often found outside shops and restaurants. Use these on rainy days before entering. Some establishments provide plastic covers for umbrellas. Slip this over the wet article and walk in with it in hand. If you are given a business or name card accept it with both hands. First look at it before carefully putting it away. If you are sitting at a table, place the card on the table in front of you. Do not fold it, play with it, or write on it especially in front of the giver. At an appropriate moment, either at the end of the meeting or after a reasonable period of time has elapsed, put it away into your wallet or card holder. If you are visiting someone, especially for business, do not sit down of your own accord. Allow your Japanese host to indicate the seat for you to use. This would, in normal circumstances, be considered the best in the room. WALKJAPAN Educational - Study Notes Day 1 Introduction to the Nakasendo The Nakasendo was one of five principal highways, or Gokaido, established under the Tokugawa shogunate regime (1600-) that were to be used as official routes that the daimyo, or feudal lords, had to follow on sankin-kotai, or system of alternate residence, processions. This system demanded that daimyo live in Edo (Tokyo) for set periods; while their wives and heirs had to remain hostage in Edo when the daimyo was absent. The daimyo had to use highways designated by the shogunate when travelling between Edo and their domains: 39 of them were instructed to use the Nakasendo. The five roads also served to speed passage of personnel and dispatches, both of which were crucial to the Tokugawa Shoguns' attempts to stabilise and rule the nation. Barriers were built to inspect and control traffic, while post-towns were established to provide accommodation as well as local transport services. With the passage of time, the roads were also used by unofficial travellers and merchants. The roads effectively enabled control of the nation, centralised on the shogun's power base at Edo. In time, they also stimulated the growth of a nationwide, market economy. The Tokaido was the most important highway as most daimyo based in regions to the west of Edo were directed to travel along it. Its post-towns generally had between 50 to 200 inns and 100 horses and porters. The Nakasendo, which had a lower level of traffic, was considered the second most important highway. Its 69 post-towns had around 20 to 30 inns and maintained 25 to 50 horses and porters to service travel. The five roads were directly controlled by the shogunate, which appointed officials to ensure the roads and post-towns were well maintained and the roads functioned properly overall. A visit by road officials was a period of stress for any town or village along the route as it usually implied that there was a problem. If so, someone or the whole local population would suffer. The Route of the Nakasendo Way from Kyoto to Tokyo. 15 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 1 Hiroshige. Hiroshige is the given name of Utagawa Hiroshige (1797-1858), the woodblock print artist and illustrator best known for his landscapes. Hiroshige's father was a hereditary retainer of the shogun and acted as an official of the firefighting group entrusted with the protection of Edo castle. The position was stable and relatively undemanding. Hiroshige, as the eldest son, inherited his father's status and job. It is likely that his salary was insufficient for his needs, motivating him to look into artistic crafts to supplement his income. After being rejected by the school of the popular ukiyoe artist Utagawa Toyokuni, he began studying under Utagawa Toyohiro at the age of 15. However, he showed little sign of artistic genius and did not publish many works. Despite soon earning his master’s approval, Hiroshige's first genuinely original publications came six years later, in 1818. His ‘Eight Views of Lake Biwa and ‘Ten Famous Places in the Eastern Capital’ (i.e. Edo) were moderately successful. It was not until publication in 1831 of his ‘Famous Places in the Eastern Capital’ that he attracted public attention. In 1832, Hiroshige was invited to join a procession along the Tokaido of shogun officials to the imperial court at Kyoto and back to Edo. His subsequent series of prints, ‘The FiftyThree Stations of the Tokaido’, was very successful. The series consisted of a print of each of the 53 stations along the road. The series achieved such great success that he subsequently undertook some 20 other series of prints focused on the Tokaido. In the mid-1830s, he travelled along the Nakasendo highway, contributing 46 designs to a series of 69 views of this highway with Keisai Eisen executing the remainder. Hiroshige also did print series on Osaka and Kyoto, but it was for his various series on Edo and on highways that he achieved the greatest reputation during and after his life. The highway prints provide accurate representations of the roads, post-towns, pilgrims, and travel methods of his day. Some of the scenes he depicted are still recognisable today, particularly in the Kiso Valley section of the Nakasendo. Hiroshige’s Print for the post town of Oi; modern day Ena city and where we start our journey. 16 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 2 Morning - Ena to Nakatsugawa We start our journey in Ena as it is called now; Oi as it was called in the Edo period. Oi-juku was the 46th post-town on the Nakasendo from Edo. It was a prosperous place, due to that fact that Oi-juku was also a stop on the road between Nagoya (and Ise Shrine in current Mie Prefecture) and Zenkoji Temple (located in current Nagano Prefecture). We start our day with a quick visit to the Hiroshige Print Museum in town. It has a fine collection of prints and a good exhibition on the print making process, and you can try your hand at making your own prints. Oi post-town lies at the far end of the modern town. The road to it passes through the modern night life area, hotels, and restaurants, to the railway station area. Beyond the station the old post-town area is well preserved. In this area, the highway may date back to around 1100 or before, but Oi itself had 175 households and 1,227 people in the 1790s, a medium sized post-town. The area around the former honjin is well preserved. The gateway to the honjin, the surrounding ordinary inns, and the double masugata road shape have all survived to this day. Leaving Ena, there is a kosatsuba and then some industrial estates. The old highway quickly turns into paved country road which runs through a rolling valley. After about 7 miles through nearly continuous farm villages, the road enters Nakatsugawa. The road descends a hill and is obstructed by a masugata which signals the beginning of the old post-town. Near Nakatsugawa train station, the Nakasendo has been gentrified with attractive sidewalks and shops lining the way. One of the larger post-towns in the Edo period, Nakatsugawa had a population of 1220 in the 1790s. In addition to its post-town function, Nakatsugawa was also an important local market and retail center. The town stretched for over two-thirds of a mile along the highway, with numerous shops selling rice, sake, soy sauce, salt, clothing and other general supplies, as well as over 30 inns. Entering the town along the old Nakasendo, a number of Edo period shops and houses survive around the former masugata. These include a sake shop with the traditional sake brewers sign of a ball made from cedar cuttings. 17 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 2 What to look out for: 1) Oi Honjin The honjin was the principal inn in a post-town along Japan’s old highways. A very large establishment, the honjin only provided lodging to the highest ranking official travelers although as time passed, rich merchants were able to purchase lodging if official visitors were not present. A few post-towns had a second honjin. 2) Masugata The road through most post-towns and castle towns takes an apparently inexplicable right-angled bend or a combination of two such bends. The bend in the road made it impossible to see in which direction the road progressed. It also made it impossible to see the honjin from afar, which would normally have been the target for assassins seeking to get rid of the (temporary) occupant who might be a prominent daimyo. 3) Kosatsuba Kosatsuba were public announcement boards placed at strategic locations so that the important and long-standing orders of the Tokugawa shogunate (1603-1868) could be made widely known to the general public. Along the Nakasendo, the boards were prominently positioned so that they would be seen by travelers as they entered each post-town. 4) Sake (Rice Wine) Brewery This can be identified by the traditional sign of a ball made from cedar cuttings. 18 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 2 Afternoon - Nakatsugawa to Shinchaya Leaving Nakatsugawa the road twists around another masugata, passing a replica of the official proclamation board (kosatsuba). For the next two and a half miles the highway makes a series of short but steep ascents and descents across a line of ridges running down from Mount Ena to the east. From the top of the last of these ridges a spectacular view is offered of the gorge above Ochiai and the modern bridge which crosses it. Descending into the valley, the post-town of Ochiai is reached. Ochiai had a population of 370 people and 35 houses of which 14 were inns in 1841, rather dwarfed by its larger neighbor, Nakatsugawa. Ochiai is well preserved, and has an unusual exhibit in the centre of the post town - a giant cooking pot commemorating the passage of Princess Kazunomiya and her vast retinue in 1861. Leaving Ochiai, there is a joyato just before a masugata which turns to the left. The highway starts to climb. Soon, it begins to run through rolling hills and there are some short steep climbs with increasingly spectacular views back toward Nakatsugawa and the Kiso river. The Kiso river again has very steep gorges in this area, so the Nakasendo keeps a short way to the south of it. Along the way is a small temple which once specialized in an herbal medicine that was said to be especially suitable for sword cuts. There was considerable ishidatami laid to provide safe footing, some of which is original, although much has been replaced recently by the local historical society. Shinchaya (literally “new tea house”) is located just across the border separating Gifu and Nagano prefectures. It is one of the tateba created as a resting place between posttowns. Today it still has two small tea houses, one dating back well over a hundred years. There is a restored an ichirizuka on the outskirts of the town to the left of the road, originally described in Shimzaki Toson’s novel, ‘Before the Dawn’. The most famous spot in Shinchaya, however, is the rock which has been inscribed in the hand of Toson: ‘North from here is the Kiso road’. 19 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 2 What to look out for: 1) Ochiai Giant Cooking Pot The giant cooking pot on display in Ochiai commemorates the procession of Princess Kazunomiya in 1862. Kazunomiya was an imperial princess and sister to Emperor Komei (reigned 1846-67) who was married to the shogun, Tokugawa Iemochi, in 1862 in a political alliance designed to unify imperial court and the shogunate. Kazunomiya traveled from Kyoto to Edo along the Nakasendo in 1861, placing great strain on the resources of the highway. The wedding party had a serious impact on the style appropriate to an Imperial princess betrothed to a Tokugawa shogun. Kazunomiya required various attendants and maids-in-waiting and a huge guard of samurai. A party of 15,000 traveled to Kyoto to fetch her and another 10,000 imperial guards joined the procession to Edo. This vast train took three days to pass any single point. To move such a large party along the highway put great strain on the road's resources. According to some records, post-towns had to supply 2,500 porters and 200 horses the day before the procession arrived and 8,000 men and 3,000 horses on the days it was passing. Kumagaya post-town had to draft men and animals from 32 surrounding villages to meet the demands of the procession. The procession was necessarily slow and it took 26 days to make a journey that most travellers covered in about two weeks. 2) Joyato At nightfall, with no street lights along the way, traveling became difficult, if not hazardous. In order to assist travelers, stone lanterns were erected at each end of the post-towns to act as guiding beacons. They were lit at dusk and would remain burning until dawn – hence the name joyato or ‘all-night lights’. Similar lanterns were also found outside shrines. Many survive today, demarcating the limits of the original post-towns. 20 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 2 3) Herbal Medicine Temple. The monks at this temple traditionally sold ointment to toughen up the feet of weary travellers. 4) Ishidatami Ishidatami or ‘paving stones’ were laid down on rough patches of road, particularly over the mountain passes which were steep at the top and prone to erosion in the rainy season. Stones were laid carefully so that porters and carriers would have sure footing when they most needed it. Other than this, no attempt was made to pave the highways. 5) Ichirizuka One of the aids for both travelers and the people who worked on the highways in the early Edo period were regular distance markers - large earthen mounds known as ichirizuka. The literal meaning is ‘one ri mound’, a ri being a standard measure of distance equivalent to 2.44 miles. In other words, mounds of earth were piled up, usually one on each side of the road, for every ri traveled from Edo. Although the mounds were prominent, they were made more distinctive by planting a tree on the top. 21 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 2 6) “North from here, the Kiso Road” This stone inscription, indicating the start of the Kiso section of the Nakasendo, is written in the hand of Shimazaki Toson (1872-1943). Many literary figures in Japan have connections to the Nakasendo, but Toson has the closest and longest association. Toson was born and raised in Magome and he wrote at length in his novels about the Nakasendo and, in particular Magome and Kiso-Fukushima, where he had relatives by marriage. In his last novel, 'Before the Dawn', Toson departed from the autobiographical form and wrote a semi-historical, semi-fictional account of his father's life during the period of the Meiji restoration. His family was of the farmer class in the Edo period, but as hereditary headmen of Magome village and owners of the honjin were well off. His father represents the experience of a member of the rural elite striving to come to terms with and participate in the vast changes of the Meiji era. 7) Basho Haiku Poem Scattered along the Nakasendo, at Shinchaya, Shimo-suwa, and Karuizawa, are rocks on which are inscribed poems. Composed by Basho, the poems evoke the local landscape at a particular time of year and are much appreciated by local residents who have erected the stone memorials to the poet. Basho was a master poet who developed poetry, especially what has come to be known as the haiku poem with a 5-7-5 syllable format, to a high level. Basho is also famous for the many long journeys which he immortalized in a series of travelogues combining poetry and prose. These were also great achievements in their genre. In 1688 he departed on a trip trough Gifu, the Kiso valley and Sarashina to see the moonshine at Obasuteyama, where old women were sometimes abandoned on the mountain at the end of their lives. The poem which is inscribed on the rock at Shinchaya was written on this trip. 22 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 3 Morning - Shinchaya to the Magome Pass The road continues for a mile through pleasant farmland before Magome is reached. Turning back to face Ochiai the traveler is rewarded with a breathtaking view across the foothills of Mount Ena and the valley below. Although completely destroyed by fire in 1895 the rebuilding of Magome followed traditional lines and the town seems to have successfully preserved the atmosphere and feel of the Edo period. Formerly a remote and rather obscure post-town, this image has been changed due to the writings of Shimazaki Toson, Magome’s most famous son. His novel “Before the Dawn” is a semi-biographical account of Toson’s father when he was the honjin and headman of the town at the time of the Meiji Restoration. Still widely read today, Toson’s novel now attracts tens of thousands of literary pilgrims to Magome each year. The town stretches up a steep hill. Coaches drop off tourists at the souvenir shops clustered at the bottom of the hill, allowing them to walk up the old Nakasendo which is now closed to modern traffic. The road is lined on both sides with period inns, restaurants, and shops selling local products, creating a lively atmosphere. Most visitors eventually find their way to the site of the old honjin where Toson was born in 1872. Only a part of the original buildings remained after the fire of 1895, and a memorial hall to the author has now been built there. Beyond this the town continues for some way further, until the site of the kosatsuba is reached near the top of the hill. Beyond here the number of people on the old Nakasendo falls dramatically, as most visitors make their way back down the hill again to their coaches. Many will be driven along the modern road to the next post-town, Tsumago. From Magome the old highway heads for Magome-toge, the final barrier to entry into the Kiso valley. Along the way the village of Toge (lit. ‘Pass’) offers a similar Edo period scene to Magome, but the atmosphere is quieter and more restrained since fewer tourists come here. Shortly after the pass itself is reached. The descent to Tsumago is through ancient woodland accompanied by the sounds of birdsong and babbling streams. A tea house, next to a weeping cherry tree, adds to the charm. Nearby is the site of a former barrier station, set up in the Edo period to check all travelers and ensure that nobody smuggled valuable Kiso timber out of the valley illegally. 23 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 3 What to look out for 1) Shinto shrine gate at Magome Shinto is Japan’s native religion, and Shinto shrines are notable for their location and their architecture. These are commonly in places of natural beauty and where worship is made to deities drawn from the immediate surroundings such as rocks, wind, sun, water springs and trees. The entrance to a shrine is usually marked by a torii, a distinctive gate, and shimenawa, a straw rope attached to which are gohei, folded white paper strips. The shimenawa indicates the sanctity of the shrine precincts, the shrine building itself or the object of worship - a uniquely shaped rock or an ancient tree, for example. 2) ‘Tateba” Tea house and Lumber checkpoint between Tsumago and Magome Tateba or rest stops were located mid-way between post-towns. Typically, they were a small cluster of tea houses which were unofficially established by local people who took advantage of the needs of travelers who would stop for a rest and some refreshment before moving on to the next official post-town. Today, some tateba have disappeared entirely and some are merely an isolated tea house or liquor store. Others grew large enough to justify a railroad station and have become bustling urban centers in their own right. The checkpoint adjacent to the tateba was charged with watching for smugglers who dealt in the valuable lumber of the valley. During the Edo period, the ruling samurai class put so much value on the wood that common people were prohibited from cutting the five trees of the Kiso river valley. 24 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 3 Afternoon - Magome Pass to Tsumago After a further twenty minutes or so along footpaths the roar of the Odaki – Medaki waterfalls can be heard in the valley below. From the fading roar of the Odaki-Medaki waterfalls the Nakasendo descends steeply through a deep valley which resonates to the rushing sound of smaller streams. Breaking out of the woodlands into the broader Kiso valley the small hamlet of O-tsumago is reached. The buildings are wonderfully preserved in the traditional, provincial style of Shinano (modern Nagano prefecture). Leaving O-tsumago the route of the old Nakasendo is traced along footpaths and a narrow country road until Tsumago itself is reached after just fifteen minutes’ walking. The scenery along the way is picturesque, and many of the old farms and inns perched on the slopes of the surrounding woodland still have traditional waterwheels in operation. In 1841 Tsumago had a population of just 418 people, living in 83 households of which 31 were inns. The town was relatively small compared to others on the Nakasendo and, given its remote location at the southern end of the Kiso Valley, seems to have been an obscure place of no special note. Today the situation is very different. As a tourist destination Tsumago is arguably the most popular of all the post-towns on the Nakasendo, and pictures of the charming, ‘authentic’ Edo main street are well-known throughout Japan. The modern success of Tsumago stems partly from the fact that it always had been a remote and obscure town. No modern buildings intruded during the economic boom of the sixties, perhaps because the lack of a railway station meant the boom never echoed here. In an effort to preserve the character of the town, a decision was made to ban the installation of above-ground electric and telephone lines, and other on-street modern intrusions such as vending machines from the old quarters of the town. Perhaps unnoticed by many tourists today, it is this policy which distinguishes Tsumago from the vast majority of other historic locations in Japan, and which helps make the town so photogenic. This careful preservation of the post-town flavor now draws in bus-loads of tourists throughout the year, and the income generated by such activity has enabled the restoration and even rebuilding of many period structures. These include the original waki-honjin, which boasts a toilet once used by the Emperor Meiji, and a rebuilding of the honjin itself on the original site. 25 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 3 What to look out for 1) Giant Sawara Tree The five varieties of trees which were particularly valued in the Kiso area were the native evergreens of sawara, asuhi, koya maki, nezuko and hinoki (Japanese cypress). All were prized for use in the construction industry because of their beautiful grain, durability, and ease of working. The strict controls on logging were lifted at the end of the Edo period and as a result, few of these giant trees remain. 2) Odake - Medaki Waterfalls These two waterfalls that we pass by on the way to Tsumgo are known as male and female waterfall, and are mentioned in a novel "Miyamoto Musashi" by Yoshikawa Eiji (1892-1962). Miyamoto Musashi (1584-1645) was the most famous swordsman, teacher of the Way of the Sword, and ronin (masterless samurai) of the early Edo period. His story has been enshrined in popular legend, novel and movie; the movie is repeated on television each New Years in either its 7 or 15-hour version. Ask your leader for the story behind the name of the waterfall! 26 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 3 3) Waterwheels This waterwheel can be found on the edge of the village of O-Tsumago. Waterwheels are still sometimes used to provide the power to grind rice into rice flour. Notice the roof of the building - large stones hold it on. This is an example of the Shinano style of traditional building in the Kiso valley area of the Nakasendo. 4) Tsumago Waki-honjin The waki-honjin was the secondary inn in a posttown. The waki-honjin provided lodging to second ranking official travelers (the highest ranking travelers stayed at the honjin). Some post-towns had more than one waki-honjin, depending on the volume of traffic through the town. The wakihonjin also served as a family home, and is perfectly preserved. Attached to the building is a history museum with many exhibits relating to the Kiso area, including a giant trunk gifted by Princess Kazunomiya to the innkeepers as she passed through Tsumago in 1861. ５）A Imperial Toilet The Emperor Meiji passed through Tsumago in 1880, taking a short break at the Waki-honjin. 27 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 4 Tsumago to Kiso-Fukushima Leaving the town at the location of the old “kosatsuba” (official proclamation board) the old highway ascends steeply up the valley side to the site of Tsumago castle. The castle was to defend the southern approaches to the Kiso valley during the Warring States period, but was dismantled in 1615. From the summit of the hill on which the castle perched, excellent views can be obtained along the length of the Kiso valley. The road now meanders through a mixture of forest and farmland, and is one of the most scenic stretches of the whole journey. The three and a half mile section between Tsumago and Midono is popular with walkers today because it gives easy access between Tsumago and the nearest train station, Nagiso. Midono, the old post-town, is slightly higher up the valley than Nagiso with its station, souvenir shops, supermarkets, and modern highway. Midono in 1841 had a population of 594, and 32 inns for travelers. As such it was virtually indistinguishable from neighboring Tsumago in the Edo period , but today the disappearance of so many of the old buildings means that it does not attract anything like the number of tourists that Tsumago receives. Weather and energy permitting, we now start one of the alternative routes of the old highway through this area. Our choice avoids the easy riverside way which is now overlaid by a busy modern highway. Instead, we take the original route of the Nakasendo here. Over 3~4 hours, it takes us gradually higher and higher through quiet farming hamlets until we ascend through a forest to Ne-no-ue Pass. At many points along our climb we see the remains of the extensive narrow-gauge logging railway system that once reached far into the mountains. From the pass it is a steep descent for an hour to Nojiri train station. This is the longest and one of the most difficult section of our whole walk, but it rewards one with alpine vistas of the Japan Alps. Our 40-minute rail journey takes us to Kiso-Fukushima where we spend the night at a ryokan in the middle of town. 28 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 4 What to look out for 1) Site of Tsumago Castle This castle site, offering excellent views back to Tsumago and the Magome pass in one direction, and to Nagiso and Midono in the other, was an extremely advantageous location. In 1584, it was the scene of a long siege and several skirmishes as 7000 Tokugawa Shogunate forces attempted unsuccessfully to pass through the area, held off by a force of only 300 local soldiers. 2) Momosuke Suspension Bridge. In Japan, the first hydro-electric power was produced in 1890. After 1912, hydro-electric plants supplied more than 50% of Japan’s electricity. Only after World War II did the balance between power from thermal plants and power from hydro-electric plants tip in favor of thermal plants. A major reason for the early dominance of hydro-electric power can be seen in valleys like the Kiso river valley. The river descends quickly and steadily during its short run and so it is easy to put up a medium sized dam and derive a great deal of energy. Although the rains are not absolutely predictable, they are regular enough to make water power a cheap and reasonable option. Fukuzawa Momosuke (1868-1938) was a wealthy industrialist who recognised the potential for hydro-electric power in the Kiso valley. This bridge was originally constructed to assist in transporting materials for the construction of a dam. Momosuke is also known for his relationship with the famous actress and dancer Kawakami Sadayakko (1871-1946), who travelled extensively abroad and did much to bring about the popularity of Japanese performing arts in the Americas and Europe. At a time when it was considered improper for women to perform on stage with men, Sadayakko was a groundbreaking and influential figure who defied cultural norms. 29 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 4 3) Logging in the Kiso Valley. The Kiso forest is famous for the quality of its lumber. During the Edo period, the ruling samurai class put so much value on the wood that common people were prohibited from cutting the five trees of the Kiso river valley. Shimazaki Toson’s novel Before the Dawn relates in the first few pages the case of villagers who were caught and tried for breaking the law in this respect. They were tried and placed in manacles for an indefinite period of time. The officials in charge of the trial made a great point of relating how execution would have been the punishment in the early decades of the Edo period. Governments made large revenues by establishing monopolies on harvesting and selling the forests’ products. The five varieties trees which were particularly valued in the Kiso valley were the native evergreens of sawara, asuhi, koya maki, nezuko and hinoki (Japanese cypress). The forest also had scatterings of cherry (sakura), pine (matsu) and zelkova (keyaki, a relative of the elm but native to Japan) mixed in. All were prized for use in the construction industry because of their beautiful grain, durability, and ease of working. When restrictions were lifted on cutting the Kiso trees, many commoners were quick to invest in rebuilding their homes. Many a home or inn on the Nakasendo was quickly transformed into buildings of great beauty. The waki-honjin at Tsumago was one building that was quickly reconstructed in cypress after the restrictions were lifted early in the Meiji period. As a result, a hundred years ago, the Kiso forest was seriously overcut and depleted. Replanting has re-established the forest, but the forest is planned and managed rather than wild. Shinto shrines are generally built of unfinished wood from the five trees. The Kiso has supplied hinoki trees for the cyclical rebuilding of the Ise Shrines, floating them down the Kiso river. Cuttings for ritual purposes such as these could only be done by men since women menstruating are viewed as impure in the Shinto religion. Kiso timber was also prized for constructing government buildings and the mansions of the daimyo in the Edo period. 30 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 5 Morning - Kiso-Fukushima to the Torii Pass Situated in the center of the Kiso Valley, the city of Kiso-Fukushima is still the main town of Kiso. In the Muromachi era (1378 – 1573), Kiso-Fukushima was the castle town of the Kiso family, but this status was lost after the battle of Sekigahara when the whole valley was brought into the Owari domain, governed from Nagoya. Nevertheless, KisoFukushima remained the headquarters of the special administrator (“daikan”) appointed by the Tokugawa shogunate to look after the affairs of the valley and its valuable timber resources. This appointment became the hereditary position of the Yamamura family, a name still recalled in the area today. The town was also the site of one of the two main barrier stations along the Nakasendo, set up to scrutinize all traffic along the highway and to prevent the illegal movement of people. In the 1840s Kiso-Fukushima had a population of just under one thousand, and the town boasted 14 inns for ordinary travelers. Today, unusually, the number of inns has actually increased due to the large numbers of tourists who come here each year. These still include modern day pilgrims on their way to Mount Ontake, as well as others who come to look at the old post-town and the recently reconstructed barrier station. The greatest attraction, however, is the Kiso Valley itself and the mountains on either side of it. In the summer months come many hikers and anglers while in winter the snow attracts thousands of skiers. Travel is facilitated by the fact that Kiso-Fukushima is the only regular express train stop between Nakatsugawa and Matsumoto. Leaving the post-town through the barrier station (now a museum), the old Nakasendo follows the modern highway for a while, passing under a huge arch which symbolizes the barrier gateway shown in Hiroshige’s print of Kiso-Fukushima. Passing the site of an ichirizuka (mile post), the old road then branches away from the busy Route 19 to follow a more peaceful route through farmland. On the way to the next post-town of Mienokoshi, some two and a half miles from Kiso-Fukushima, the traveler passes another marker informing that the half-way point on the Nakasendo between Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo) has been reached. After the next post town of Yabuhara, there is a sharp right turn through a masugata under the railway. The road now progresses through very quiet countryside, gradually ascending the valley side before changing into a footpath that begins the climb up Toriitoge. There is a section of ishidatami at the start of the climb up the pass, but most of it has deteriorated and disappeared. At the summit is a Shinto shrine. In the past, travelers paused here for the view of Mt. Ontake. This was the first view which pilgrims traveling from Edo had of the sacred mountain, so a torii was established here and lent its name to the pass. 31 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 5 What to look out for 1) The Barrier Station at Kiso Fukushima The two pictures above show Hiroshige’s print of the Kiso-Fukushima barrier station, and the reconstructed station as it is today. Seki or barriers were inspection stations originally erected to collect road-use taxes or to inhibit trade or free movement. In the Edo period, they were used primarily for security purposes. Travelers were channeled through the barrier and under the scrutiny of officials whose duty was, in general, to keep a watch on travelers and in particular to prevent weapons from moving toward Edo and samurai women from leaving Edo without permission. The weapons might be used against the government while the departure of women from Edo might encourage a daimyo to attempt rebellion against the government. 2) Mt Ontake Mount Ontake as viewed from the Torii pass. Mount Ontake is an active volcano dominating the Kiso Valley, but is best known as the domain of magical mountain spirits. Ontake is a center of Shinto worship, particularly by the Shugendo sect which specializes in ascetic practices on mountains. The Shugendo sect is a very eclectic sect which combines Shinto beliefs with Buddhist doctrine and practice. Its believers are usually called yamabushi (lit. ‘mountain warriors’), who may often be hermits. Shugendo emerged in the 12th century as a result of the joining of solitary hermits who had fled Buddhist monasteries to seek magical and medical powers through fasting, meditation and ascetic practices such as standing under cold mountain waterfalls or in snow. 32 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 5 Afternoon - the Torii Pass to Narai The Nakasendo is a mere path as it descends from Torii-toge to Narai. This is a somewhat wild area, precipitous and prone to landslides. There have been a series of major landslides in recent years which have destroyed the original path and forced a detour around it. The detour rejoins the Nakasendo after several hundred yards. A sign here commemorates one of many attempts by Takeda Katsuyori, son of Takeda Shingen, to break into the Kiso valley during the Warring States period. Katsuyori led 2,000 samurai, but they were ambushed and lost 500 men before retreating back to their base. The path continues through well established woodland to some more ishidatami near the bottom. Here a small road appears and offers a spectacular view of Narai before the final descent into the town. Narai has been carefully preserved, especially along the Nakasendo, although not to the extent that Tsumago has been. It seems more to have lain fallow until it was rediscovered by tourists in the 1970s, so in many ways it seems more ‘realistic’ or authentic than other popular ‘museum’ post-towns on the Nakasendo. At the entry of the town is a Shinto shrine on the left, then the joyato and a medium-sized replica of the kosatsuba. Most of the buildings in the town are in the traditional fashion of a post-town, although few of them are much more than a century old. Narai has become famous as a tourist spot and there are many shops selling curios to travelers and many inns. In the center of the old town are three former inns which continue to function; Echigoya, Aburaya, and Tokuriya. The latter in particular is known throughout Japan as a classic example of Nagano prefecture folk architecture. Today, Tokuriya serves simple lunches and drinks in the evening around an open fire, but modern fire regulations prevent guests staying overnight. Look out for.. Traditional buildings in Narai Notice how the second floor overhangs the first, with eaves sloping further to overhang the entire building and protect the interior from rain. 33 WALKJAPAN Educational - Study notes Day 6 Morning - Narai to Kiso-Hirasawa Passing the train station, the Nakasendo follows a newer road past modern houses until it crosses the train tracks to emerge on the national highway which has bypassed Narai. It soon enters a small town, Hirasawa, which specializes in making lacquerware. In the past, the townspeople used local woods to make common utensils such as lunch boxes. Now, the few surviving craftsmen have achieved national recognition for their manufacture of top-quality lacquer ware products. Few tourists come to Narai without a quick shopping trip to this village. Look out for... Shops selling lacquerware Afternoon - Nagoya and Osu Kannon Osu Kannon is a popular temple of the Shingon sect of Buddhism, built in the classic Chinese pagoda temple style. Osu Kannon was originally located in Osu of the Mino district, but it came to have strong ties to Japan’s rulers and Tokugawa Ieyasu moved it to its present site in 1612 when he also built Nagoya Castle. Its main temple was destroyed by fire but was rebuilt in 1970. Near the Osu Kannon is a commercial district with many restaurants, clothing stores, and discount computer shops. Look out for... Osu Kannon Shrine 34 WALKJAPAN Educational KISO VALLEY PAGE 3 / 4 Map of the Kiso Valley and the Nakasendo Way (JNTO). To Shiojiri 塩尻 Niekawa Sta. Niekawa 贄川駅 Kiso-Hirasawa Kiso Valley Narai Kiso-Hirasawa Sta. 木曽平沢 木曽平沢駅 NaraiNarai Sta. 奈良井 奈良井駅 ？ Kiso-no-Ohashi Bridge 木曽の大橋 Torii Pass 鳥居峠 Ontake Prefectural Park 御岳県立公園 Yabuhara Yabuhara Sta. 薮原駅 薮原 Kaida Heights 開田高原 Mt. Ontake 御嶽山 Harano Sta. 原野駅 Ontake Heights 御岳高原 Y Kiso Ryojo-an 木曽旅情庵 Kiso-Fukushima Sta. 木曽福島駅 N Lake Ontake 御岳湖 Agematsu Sta. Agematsu 上松駅 Nezame-no-toko 寝覚の床 Miyanokoshi Sta. 宮ノ越駅 Kisokoma Heights 木曽駒高原 Mt. Kiso-Komagatake 駒ヶ岳 Mt. Hoken 宝剣山 Nezame Hotel ねざめホテル Chuo (Central) Alps Prefectural Park 中央アルプス県立公園 Akazawa Woods 赤沢自然休養林 KuramotoSta. Kuramoto 倉本駅 Mt. Karaki 空木岳 ？ Okuwa Sta. Okuwa 大桑駅 Y Suhara SuwaraSta. 須原駅 Nojiri Sta. 野尻駅 Nozokido Forest Park のぞきど森林公園 Kakizore Ravine 柿其渓谷 Junikane Junikane Sta. 十二兼駅 Tadachi Falls 田立の滝 Traffic Network Tadachi Sta. 田立駅 Matsumoto 松本 NagisoSta. Nagiso 南木曽 南木曽駅 ？ Shinshimashima 新島々 Tsumago Shinjuku 新宿 Tokyo 東京 Narai 奈良井 Kiso-Fukushima 木曽福島 Kamikochi 上高地 Tsumago 妻籠 妻篭 Norikura 乗鞍 Nagiso 南木曽 Nakatsugawa 中津川 Magome 馬籠 馬篭 ne Li t) es ）線 (W 西 uo 央（ Ch 中 Nakanoyu 中ノ湯 Hirayu 平湯 Magome Pass 馬篭峠 馬籠峠 Ochiaigawa Sta. 落合川駅 Chuo (East) Line 中央 （東） 線 Tokaido Tokaido Shinkansen Shinkansen 東海道新幹線 Sakashita Sta. 坂下駅 Shiojiri 塩尻 Tajimi 多治見 ？ Magome 0 2.5km 5km To Toyama 富山 To Nakatsugawa 中津川 35 Takayama Line 高山本線 Takayama 高山 Gero 下呂 Mino-Ota 美濃太田 Nagoya 名古屋 WALKJAPAN Educational Notes: 36
