Model A Rattles

The
Model A Rattles
the newsletter of the
Albany, Oregon Enduring A’s Chapter of MAFCA
April 2015
Minutes of the General Meeting on March 4th 2015
Meeting called to order at 7:08 by Byron Cook at the Albany Public Library.
Minutes from February general meeting were read and approved.
Linda read the treasury report.
Linda says “Pay your dues!”
Connie passed around a card for Elsie Morris.
Waterloo picnic sign up was passed around.
Overnighter was briefly discussed.
Still have 4 free MAFCA memberships.
Announced that someone from the Mennonite Village is looking to sell a Model A and Model T,
Contact Tom Hughson for more information.
Jeff said that we are still looking for someone to lead the overnighter.
Yellow flyers were left out for the Corvallis swap meet.
Discussed the Road Worthiness Clinic.
Door prizes were won by Percy Kropf and Russ Smith.
Refreshments were brought by Robert and LenNel Webber.
Meeting adjourned at 7:22
Tom Hughson did a program on some of the history of Albany.
Brian Cook, Secretary
Minutes of the Board Meeting on March 17th 2015
Meeting called to order at 7:08 by Byron Cook at the Albany Public Sizzler.
Minutes from February board meeting were read and approved.
Linda passed out a monthly expenditure sheet.
Expenditure sheet was read and approved by the board.
Linda discussed members who have not paid their dues.
Discussed sending a reminder to members who have not paid dues.
Martin Harding ran through the plan for the overnighter.
August 7th, 8th and 9th to Tillamook Pig-n-Ford races at Tillamook county fair.
Board discussed and agreed that it sounded like a good idea.
Robert motioned to adjourn, Glen seconded it.
Meeting adjourned at 7:50.
Brian Cook, Secretary
Welcome New Members
While Arlene Glock, a special friend of Ken (and of course us), has been previously involved in many of
our events, she is now officially an Enduring A’er, and we couldn’t be happier. We are also happy to
welcome Brian Littlefield’s friend Lynda Mathews. We hope both Arlene and Lynda will find us pleasant
and sociable, open and not too stiff. We hope also that each will enjoy our many activities.
Potluck Lunch at NWVC&MM with Talk by Ken Austin
The Northwest Vintage Car & Motorcycle Museum in Brooks has invited all interested people to attend a
potluck lunch beginning at 11:30 a.m. on April 18th. A highlight of the lunch will be speaker Ken Austin,
who is an antique car enthusiast from Newberg. Unfortunately, this event is on the same day as our
Roadworthiness Clinic, and you must make a choice. With our schedule heating up, and the number of
auto-related events increasing each year, you will have to make similar decisions on a number of other
dates. This is good, no?
First Notice – We Have an Overnighter!
The Enduring A's annual overnight tour will be to the Tillamook County Fair, featuring the world famous
"Pig-N-Ford" races. The dates are August 7th, 8th and 9th, 2015. More detailed information and a sign-up
sheet will be available at the April general meeting. Anyone missing that meeting should call Martin or
Linda Harding to be included in the tour. More information on the Tillamook Fair and the races is also
available on the internet. Martin Harding.
Converting Houdaille Shocks to Tube Shocks on the Model A
By Jeff Hansen, Jerry Melland, and Frank Fixel
Introduction
If your sole desire is to drive a Model A in a local parade or two, you need not care about whether or not
your original Houdaille knee-action shocks still perform as intended. You won’t need to consider the pros
and cons of a modern tube shock conversion; indeed you can easily get by without any shocks at all, just
as you likely won’t find much use for windshield wipers, horns, turn signals, or even a working parking
brake. But, should you venture further out, you will inevitably encounter a road section that would appear
to contain ruts that have been transplanted for perpetual preservation from the original Oregon Trail.
(Highway 99W north of Hwy 22 on the way to Amity comes to mind.) You will likely cross railroad
tracks, such as the ones on Queen Ave in Albany, which will have you at least searching for a qualified
orthopedic surgeon if not facing a conversation with the great decider at the Pearly Gates. Yes, we
exaggerate, but only a little. Such situations, be they expected or not, require that your Model A remain in
contact with the pavement in order for you to be able to exercise maximum control. The primary function
of shock absorbers is to facilitate this contact by dampening the wild oscillations of your car’s springs
upon encountering bumpy road conditions. Lesser functions might include reducing tire and suspension
wear and preventing chipped teeth (yours especially).
The Houdallie shock absorbers that were factory installed on your Model A were relatively effective.
However, after 85 years of service, most require at least some attention or more frequently, replacement.
Therein lies the problem: Houdaille shocks are one of the few items on the Model A for which key
replacement parts generally do not exist. Furthermore, it has been estimated that only one in five
Houdaille shocks are repairable. And, only a mere handful of qualified repairmen (probably two or three
in the entire country) are capable of providing lasting repairs. New Houdaille shocks that are decently
first rate have been made available from time to time by Bill Stipe, but the cost is dear, at about $1100 to
$1200 for a set of four at last notice (see http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/stipeshocks.htm and
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64442&showall=1).
A more common solution to the problem of worn-out shocks is to replace the Houdailles with modern
tube shocks. The biggest objection often is that the replacement is one more deviation away from the
original Model A as it rolled stock from the factory. While rear tube shocks are hardly noticeable, the
fronts are more visible (pictures below). On the plus side, fortunately, tube shock kits, including mounts
and the shocks, are available from most Model A suppliers for about $325 to $350, plus shipping. Most
designs are bolt on and require little if any modification to the ‘A’ frame or other suspension parts. The
resulting ride is good, and you will be relieved knowing that you have more than adequate control over
potentially dangerous situations that could arise from unexpected poor road and bad weather conditions,
as well as the unpredictable and errant actions of fellow drivers.
You might ask why, when a tube shock kit can be purchased for a reasonable sum, would anyone want to
make his or her own kit. Why reinvent the wheel? Beyond a superficial nod to economics, we cannot
satisfactorily answer the question, except to ask another question: Why do we, individually as Model A
enthusiasts, rebuild an engine, smooth and paint a fender, or do any number of other things to better our
cars when an expert, perhaps one more skilled and knowledgeable than ourselves, can be employed to do
the job for us? We’ll leave you to ponder the answer.
Getting Started Quickly
For those of you who are anxious to get going, and would preferably have skipped the preceding
introduction, here is what you will need to convert from Houdailles to tubes:
14” of 3/16 x 3 x 2 angle iron
5” of 3/16 x 3 x 3 angle iron
14” of 3/16 x 1.5 x1.5 angle iron
11” of 3/16 x 2 flat bar iron
5” of ½ x 1 flat bar iron
Two 7/16 NC x 3.25” grade 5 bolts, plus four nuts and four lock washers
Assorted smaller bolts, nuts, and washers for bracket attachment
Assorted common hand and power tools
Full-scale templates for mounts (see below)
Two shocks for a ’74-’78 Mustang II application: part # 32191 (Monroe-Matic)
or part #82002 (Gabrial Classic). Part #81322 (Gabrial Guardian)
for a ’76-’87 Chevette application might work well also.
Two shocks for a ’74-’77 Gran Fury or other Mopar application: part #81406 (Gabrial
Guardian) or part #31176 (Monroe-Matic) or part #5829 (Monroe Spectrum)
Note: Your printings of the drawings below may be slightly less than full-scale. The deviation is critical
in only a few instances, such as the distances between holes. If you want to use these drawings as
accurate templates, recopy your initial printings slightly larger using the enlargement feature on your
printer. Try an enlargement of 2%. Check the result by measuring a few of the dimensions. Your
measurements should be the same as the dimensions that are indicated on the drawings.
Additional details and documentation follow in the “Addendum to the Electronic Version of the
Newsletter.”
Unfortunately, space limitations prevent a continuation of this paper in our print version of the newsletter.
Upcoming Club Activities
Apl 1-- General meeting; 7:00 pm; Albany Public Library; refreshments by Carol and LouVee;
program: Jeff – “Tube Shock Conversions”
Apl 18 -- No-host Club breakfast; 9:00 am; Quail Run dining room at the Mennonite Village; Albany.
Apl 18 – Road Worthiness Clinic; usually around 10:00 am following the club breakfast; Cook’s big
barn, just north of Hwy 20 on the west side of Independence Rd; get ‘er safe, lubed, tuned, and/or
modified; drink coffee; eat donuts; agree or disagree but leave peacefully; a fun and educational time.
Apl 21 -- Board meeting; 7:00 pm; Albany Sizzler.
May 6 – General meeting; 7:00 pm; Albany Public Library; Refreshments by Paula O. and Ann;
program: Glen O – Model a Myth Busters.
May 16 -- No-host Club breakfast; 9:00 am; Quail Run dining room at the Mennonite Village; Albany
May 19 -- Board meeting; 7:00 pm; Albany Sizzler.
May 23 – Waterloo Picnic; Meet at 10:30 am in the Albany K-Mart lot for group travel or go directly
to Waterloo Park on the Santiam R. east of Lebanon; lunch at noonish; chicken and drinks; bring a
main dish, salad, or dessert to share; PIC is Larry B.
Other Local Events of Interest
Apl 4 -- S. Albany HS April Fools Car Show; 10 am to 2 pm.
Apl 10-12 – Portland Swap Meet.
Apl 18 -- The Northwest Vintage Car & Motorcycle Museum in Brooks has invited all interested
people to attend a potluck lunch beginning at 11:30 a.m. on April 18th. Ken Austin of Newberg will
highlight the program.
Apl 26 – Corvallis Swap Meet; Benton County Fairgrounds.
May 9 – Coburg Mother’s Day Swap Meet.
May 30 -- Function for Junction; Junction City.
Please consult 2015 Northwest Car Events Calendar booklet or www for details.
Classified
For Sale: 1925 Model T; originally sold by Allen Goodsell Ford dealer at 12th and Stark in Portland;
$13K; call Ken at 541-409-0014.
Wanted: One 16” Model A spoked rim. Call Russ Smith at 541-424-3761.
Percy’s Plates: Specializing in 1911 to present OR & WA; call Percy Kropf at 541-928-9175.
Services: Full machine shop services including main/con rod inserting, counterweighting, and
flywheel weight reduction and balancing; Automotive Machine Co.; 2363 12th St SE in Salem; call
Glen at 503-364-0302.
Services: Full radiator services including cleaning, repair, and rebuilding to stock specifications or for
enhanced cooling capability; Radiator Supply House; 4432 Hwy 20, Sweet Home, OR 97386; call tollfree 877-615-3002. http://radiatorsupplyhouse.com
Board Members and Other Volunteers for 2014
President – Byron Cook
Vice President – Larry Brokaw
Secretary – Brian Cook
Treasurer – Linda Harding
Director – Glen Osborn
Director – Robert Webber
Director – Russ Hurst
Past President – Jerry Melland
Newsletter Editor – Jeff Hansen
Sunshine – Connie Braaten
Membership – Ben Morris
Swap Meet Chair – Ben Morris
Club Contact – Martin Harding
541-926-4047
541-926-5142
541-926-4047
541-926-3972
541-928-1218
541-926-7367
541-367-5849
541-929-2707
541-753-7776
541-745-5637
541-760-9043
541-760-9043
541-926-3972
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
Addendum to the Electronic Version of the Newsletter
Note: To directly access any highlighted (in blue) link in this newsletter, ‘click’ (or ‘ctrl + click’)
on the link with your mouse. If a query appears on a pop-up menu, click ‘allow’. If necessary
to be sure you are utilizing PDF (Portable Document Format), click on the ‘PDF’ or ‘open’ tab.
Your document or newsletter will appear in PDF with better graphics. Reduce or enlarge the
size of the document to your preference.
Robert Webber’s Corner – This, That and Some Other Things
• Upholster your seats like a pro. -- http://www.lebaronbonney.com/instructions.htm
• Dashboard cameras in Russia. In Russia,
you can’t get car insurance without one. https://www.youtube.com/embed/5RAaW_
1FzYg?autoplay=1&modestbranding=1&re
l=0&s
• An amazing 32 cylinder miniature
engine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVuKp
5M3de8
• For Linn and Benton County residents
only – how to drive a roundabout.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/UEIn8GJI
g0E?rel=0
• World’s largest diesel engine. -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwvS8
_H5rKs
• Get the respect you deserve with this car. -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDoRmT0iRic
• Formula 1 pit stop in 1950 vs 2013. -- http://biertijd.com/mediaplayer/?itemid=47217
• Fifties nostalgia anyone? -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjj9VKKSV2g
Continuation of : ”Converting Houdaille Shocks to Tube Shocks on the Model A”
Designing Mounts and Preliminary Shock Selection
Arbitrary criterion for mount designs might stipulate that the Model A must not be disfigured, that
existing bolt holes for attaching Model A appendages be adapted to attach the mounts, that the mounts
should be as small as possible, and that commonly available and easily worked steel structural shapes
should be utilized. One essential criterion is that standard mounting configurations offered by shock
absorber companies must be considered. In practice, only two configurations, the loop and the stem,
are readily adaptable to the Model A. These are illustrated in the Monroe Mounting and Length
Specifications. Visit
http://www.monroe.com/retail/assets/downloads/english/08_MountingLengthSheet.pdf
We decided to use shocks that have stem mounts on both the top and bottom ends for front shock
replacements, primarily because only a very short shock can be accommodated, and the available
choices are extremely limited. The space available to locate a front shock on the Model A is confined
as well. Our upper front shock mount is constructed from 3/16 x 3 x 2 angle iron and is attached to the
frame using the same holes that are common to the Houdaille shocks that you will be removing. The
dimensions for the mount are shown in the drawing above. The drawing is full-scale and can be
clipped from a copy of this paper and used as a template, provided that the copy is printed full-scale
also. Note that each shock mount is unique, that is, there is an upper right front and a upper left front,
a lower right front, and a lower left front, etc. However, only one template is needed for each paired
location. Simply fold back the template appropriately when considering lefts and rights. For marking
purposes prior to cutting the steel, place the templates on the outsides of your structural shapes.
The lower front mounts are 2 1/2 inch lengths of 3/16 x 3 x 3 angle iron. You will also need to cut two
pieces of ½ x 1 inch bar to lengths slightly smaller than the 2 ½ inch width of the mount. This bar is
bolted or welded to the side of the angle iron that is attached to the front axle as indicated in the
drawing and is intended to insure that the bottom face of the lower mount is remains parallel to
pavement surfaces.
The preferable means of attaching the lower front mounts is to drill a 13/32 inch hole in the axel and
bolt the mount to the axel via the hole in the vertical arm of the mount as it is positioned. The hole
through the centerline of the axel will not weaken its structure and can be filled if the tube shocks are
removed later. Alternatively, you can attach the lower mounts with square u-bolts negating the need
for drilling a mounting hole through the axel. Fabricate the square u-bolts from ¼ inch rod.
The selected shocks for the rear of the vehicle have loop-ends at the bottom and stem ends at the top.
The lower mounting hardware will clear corners on original Model A backing plates and on backing
plates that are adapted for hydraulic brakes. The top mounts are cut from 3/16 x 2 in bar iron and fit
above the brackets that secure the bumper arms to the rear cross member. The mounts need to be
twisted slightly so that the end of the mount is perpendicular to the upper stem of the shock. The
location of the bend is shown in the rear mount drawing, and is at 350 to the plane of the mount. The
mount should be heated to accomplish the bend. A 350 wedge cut from a steel scrap will help as a
gage in fabricating the bend accurately. Note that the holes for attaching a rear upper mount to the
cross member are not equidistant from the edges of the mount. This is done to provide adequate side
clearance between the mount and bumper arm bracket. Before drilling, have it in your mind how the
mounts will be positioned and realize once again that there are both a right and left mount.
The lower mounts are fabricated from 3/16 x 1.5 x 1.5 inch angle iron. The bottom end of the mount
must be canted to clear protruding backing plate corners. The cant is made by cutting out a 300 wedgeshaped piece in one leg of the angle iron and slightly notching the inside of the adjacent leg at the apex
of the wedge. Following cutting, the cant can be easily bent in a vice. Both legs of the mount are
welded where the two ends of the mount meet at the bend.
Many of the cuts in both the front and rear mounts are made for aesthetic purposes. Should looks not
concern you, you can determine which cuts and rounded edges can be safely eliminated to shorten your
effort. Less than obvious is the necessity for the lower rear mount cant. The cant simply allows the
mounts to be attached directly to the rear backing plate. However, if sufficient washers are placed
between the mounts and backing plates so that the mounts are located away from the plates, the
clearance problem becomes moot and the cutting, bending, and welding of the canted portion is
unnecessary. On the other hand, if you eliminate the cant, the upper mounts will also need less of a
bend to align the shock and upper mount correctly.
Choosing Shocks
You will have several options when choosing tube shocks. The choice for a stem end is easy – it is a
3/8 threaded rod. For loop ended shocks, the loops may vary in both ID and length and include or not
include an inner sleeve. Inner sleeves mate better to the bolt stubs of a lower mount. The length of the
sleeve should be less than two inches so the shock is not hanging too far out from the mount. We have
chosen stocks with stem ends for the front and shocks with a loop and stem end for the rear.
To determine the length for a rear shock, measure from the center line of the bolt that will secure the
loop mount on the bottom and the lower surface of the top mount. Subtract 5/8 inch from the
measurement to allow for the rubber grommet that will isolate the stem on the top of the shock. This
measurement represents the static length of the shock or where it will normally ride (ideally midway
between the ends of the shock’s travel length). You also need to know the length of the shock when it
may be fully compressed and its length when it could be fully extended. For the compressed length
find a heavy friend and have him stand on the left or right rear bumper. Add some barbells if you
want, and measure the length between the mounts as you did when determining the static length. Next,
jack up the rear frame of the car on one side close to the rear axle until the left rear wheel leaves the
ground. Again make a measurement, this time to determine the extended length.
Use the Monroe shock tables to find shock part numbers that have a compressed length that is less than
your measured compressed length and that also have an extended length that is greater than your
measured extended length. Select only the shocks that have the appropriate loop end on the bottom
and stem end on the top. See
http://www.monroe.com/retail/assets/downloads/english/08_MountingLengthSheet.pdf Go to
http://www.monroe.com and enter each of the part numbers in the “parts search” to find out the color
of the shock (if it’s black, you won’t have to paint it) and the make, model, and year of the cars that
originally employed its use. At this point, you will be totally baffled and find yourself asking, “How
can the same shock be appropriate on both a (heavy) Chrysler Imperial and a (featherweight) Chevette,
and why was a particular shock used for a single year, but not for the following years?” No
explanation is given, and neither Monroe nor Gabrial will tell you anything about the ride quality that
you can expect from a particular shock. If you call them seeking a clue, the most they will say is that
the least expensive shock in their respective lineups will likely give you the softest ride. As far as the
relatively light Model A is concerned, the least expensive shock is probably the one you want and the
one that will give you the best ride. Hooray! Finally, something that is better also is something that is
least expensive. Both companies use nitrogen gas together with the shock oil that controls your car’s
oscillations and ride. The nitrogen gas (vs. air) in addition reduces fluid foaming and facilitates
cooling. The retail prices, which are similar for both companies, can be found on the internet by going
to http://www.autozone.com (for Gabrials) or http://www.oreillyauto.com (for Monroes). At the
current time, shocks also can be purchased online at http://www.shocks.com for less than $16 each
with 99 cent shipping (for all), and Gabrial is offering a 20% discount if four shocks are purchased
from Autozone.
Our front shock data is shown in Table 1. Data that falls outside of our measurements and
requirements are highlighted in red. Specifications for an ideal shock are shaded in yellow, as are your
best choices. Notice that even the best choices are compromised – it would be better if longer shocks
could be accommodated. Be that as it may, based upon the table data and the results from rigorous
and favorable road tests by our ride quality experts, we recommend the Gabrial 81406. Although we
did not road test the Monroe 5829 or Monroe 31176, they may also be satisfactory, and have, in fact,
been included in several diverse commercially available kits that are available from Model A
suppliers. The Gabrial shock has a 7/16 inch OD shaft which is necked down to the standard 3/8 inch
stem, whereas the Monroe shafts and stems are both 3/8 inch in diameter.
Some of the other front shocks listed in Table 1 may work, but all have compressed lengths that are
greater than our spec. If the leaf spring on your Model A is weakened (after 85 years of service),
sagging, and already at the lower end of its travel, you may not have room enough to install even the
shortest of shocks available.
Finding the data for rear shock possibilities involves a similar exercise.
Rear shock data is compiled in Table 2. Based upon the table data and rigorous and favorable road
test results by our ride quality experts, we recommend either the Monroe 32191 or Gabrial 82002
(which is black and won’t have to be painted). The Gabrial 81322 might also be good or even better,
although its maximum extension is slightly less than our specs. We did not road test the 81322.
Table 1. Stem Mount Tube Shock Conversions For Front Model A Suspensions
Measured lengths between centers:
Static
10.25
Jeff's '31 Coupe
Comp Extended Travel
8.5
13.5
5
Ideal schock lengths between centers, minus 1.25 for stem ends:
Static Comp Extended Travel
10.25 7.25
12.125 4.875
OES tube shock possibilities:
Shock Brand
Monroe Matic
Gabrial Guardian
Gabrial Guardian
Monroe Spectrum
Monroe Matic
Gabrial Guardian
Monroe Spectrum
Monroe Spectrum
Part #
32118
82128
82004
5829
31176
81406
5819
5751
Upper end
End Thread Length
S4 3/8 16 2.375
S36 3/8 24 2.490
S17 3/8 24 2.15
S4 3/8 16 2.375
S4 3/8 16 2.375
S1 3/8 24 2.375
S4 3/8 16 2.375
S4 3/8 16 2.375
Lower end
End ID or thread
LS43 14mm;.438
ES40
0.438
S1
3/8 24
S4
3/8 16
S4
3/8 16
S12
3/8 24
S4
3/8 16
S4
3/8 16
Length
3.375
3.375
2.375
2.375
2.375
2.375
2.375
2.375
Shock length
Comp Extended
8.375 11.000
8.190 11.200
8.810 14.170
7.125 10.750
7.125 10.625
7.060 10.670
9.250 14.125
8.500 13.440
Travel
2.625
3.010
5.360
3.625
3.500
3.610
4.875
4.940
$$
Users
$ 20.99 71-80 Pinto F; 74-77 Mustang II
$ 20.99 71-80 Pinto F; 74-77 Mustang II
$ 25.99
71-73 Pinto
$ 29.99
1
$ 27.99
1
$ 20.99
1
$ 25.99
2
$ 43.99
3
Note: All shocks listed are fronts unless followed by an 'R'..
Note 1: 74-77 Gran Fury F; 76-80 Volare; 74-75 and 81-83 Imperial and New Yorker F; 76-80 Aspen F.
Note 2: 71-80 Pinto R; 64-68 American F; 68-69 Javilin F
Note 3: 53 El Dorado; 53-54 Bel Air; 53-62 Vette; 52-54 Crestline; 49-52 Ford Custom; 55-56 Fairlane; 53-57 T-Bird; 47-51 Fraiser; 51 Nash Healy;
55 98; 49-57 Chieftain; 51-56 Studebaker taxi; all on fronts.
Table 2. Stem Mount/Loop Mount Tube Shock Conversions For Rear Model A Suspensions
Measured lengths between centers:
Jeff's '31 Coupe
Static
Comp
Extended
Travel
13.125
12.375
16.75
4.375
Ideal shock lengths between centers, minus .625 for stem end
Static
13.125
Comp Extended Travel
12
16.75
4.75
OES tube shock possibilities:
Shock Brand
Part #
Upper end
Lower end
Shock length
End
Thread
Length
End
ID
Length
Comp
Travel
$$
$ 47.99
Extended
Monroe Spectrum
5618
S4
3/8 16
2.375
LS78
9/16
1.500
10.72
17.16
6.440
Monroe Spectrum
5753
S4
3/8 16
2.375
L1
5/8
1.313
10.375
16.750
6.375
Monroe Spectrum
5778
S4
3/8 16
2.375
LS47
9/16
1.625
11.500
17.875
6.375
$ 33.99
Monroe Spectrum
5975
S1 10mm;.394 1.188
LS43 14mm;.551
1.563
10.500
17.000
6.500
$ 65.00
Monroe Spectrum
5977
S1 10mm;.394 1.188
LS31 12mm;.472
2.000
11.625
17.750
6.125
Monroe Matic
32143
S4
3/8 16
2.375
LS14
Monroe Matic
32153
S4
3/8 16
2.375
LS7
1.375
11.625
19.250
7.625
10mm;..394
Gabrial Guardian
81322
S1
3/8 24
Monroe Matic
32191
S4
Gabrial Classic
82002
Monroe Matic
Monroe Matic
7/16
1.625
10.250
15.500
5.250
$ 20.99
2.370
ES67 16mm; .625
1.560
10.000
15.510
5.510
$ 20.99
3/8 16
2.375
LS17
7/16
1.875
10.250
16.500
6.250
$ 20.99
S17
3/8 24
2.150
ES14
7/16
1.875
10.090
16.200
6.110
$ 20.99
32202
S4
3/8 16
2.375
LS26 12mm;.472
1.500
12.125
19.750
7.625
33122
S4
3/8 16
2.375
1.313
11.625
18.750
7.125
L1/CP1
5/8
Users
(On rears)
03-11 Saab 9-3
1
Malibu 04-12
98-04 Volvo
79-93 Saab
67-69 Camaro; 67 Firebird
76-87 Chevette F; 64-72 Kadette
76-87 Chevette F; 64-72 Kadette
74-78 Mustang II
74-78 Mustang II
84-93 Mustang; 85 Capri
82-02 Camero/Firebird
Note: 230 lbs used to compress Jeff's coupe. All shocks listed are rears.
Note 1: 65-71 Scout; 55-56 Merc; 56 88/98; 68-73 Opal; 65-67 Toyota Crown.
Note 2: 77 Gremlin; 58-59 Buick Spec; 68-69 Camero; 76-87 Chevette; 62-67 Chev II; 53-62 Vette; 50-55 Chev PU; 57-59 Ford PU; 66-70 Falcon/Fairlane;
77-79 LTD; 66-67 Ranchero; 66-67 Comet; 74-79 Cougar; 53-55 Rambler; 64-73 Niss 400/500; 68-72 Kadet; 67-87 Corona/Cressida; 67-80 Land Cruiser.
Installing the Mounts
The upper front mounts are easily bolted to the frame at the same Houdaille shock locations. See fig.1.
The extra hole toward the front of the mount on the attaching leg allows clearance for a frame rivet that
secures the front cross member to the side frame rails. Wiggle the mount before tightening the bolts to
insure that the mount is flush against the frame.
To position a lower front mount, scribe a vertically-oriented
centerline on the face of the mount that fits against the axel.
Position the mount on the inside of the axel by measuring four
inches from the lower end of the scribed line to the center of the
lower, threaded end of the spring perch, as shown in fig. 2.
Make sure that the horizontal leg of the mount is level. The ½ x
1 inch block on the side of the mount should help in locating the
mount correctly. When satisfied with its position, clamp the
mount to the axel and drill a hole through it, using the
concentric hole in the vertical leg of the mount and locating bar
as a guide. The hole can be either drilled and tapped for a 3/8
NC thread or through drilled 13/32 inch to accept a 3/8 bolt and
nut. Tighten the mounting bolt, and remove the clamp.
Fig.1 – Upper front mount.
To install an upper rear mount, remove the bolts that attach the
bumper arm bracket at the rear cross member. See fig. 3. You
will likely need to use slightly longer bolts of the same diameter
when adding the upper rear shock mount. Make sure that your
new left mount is on the left side of the car
and the right mount is on the right side. The
centerline of the mount should be parallel to
the frame. Hint: It is easiest to first install
the upper stem end of a shock to the mount
before attaching the mount because it is
otherwise difficult to get a wrench in place
to attach the shock to the mount afterwards.
Before installing the lower rear mounts,
remove the rear wheels and brake drums.
Remove the two rear bolts that attach the
rear axle to the backing plates. These bolts
will be too short to accommodate the extra
thickness of the mounts. The best option for
Fig. 2 – Measure 4” from lower mount CL to perch.
replacing the bolts is to use spare front
backing plate bolts, which are slightly longer. A less desirable
option is to use appropriate and common shoulder bolts.
Shock Installation
There is nothing magical about installing shocks. On the fronts,
you will likely need to sand down the raised lips on each of the
grommets on the upper stems to fit the 3/16 inch thickness of the
mount. The lips on the grommets are intended to fit into the ¾
inch hole in the mount and thus position and isolate the metal
stem of the shock from the metal of the mount.
On the rear, you will have already assembles the upper end of the
shock to the upper mount before attaching the mount to the car,
as explained previously. For the lower end, grease the shoulder
of a 7/16 x 3.25 inch NC grade 5 bolt and insert it into the loop
end of the shock. Tighten a nut against the shoulder of the bolt.
Fig 3. Rear Mount w/shock.
The loop should be free to rotate slightly – if it won’t back off the
nut a little. Add a lock washer and insert the bolt through the hole on the lower mount. Add another
lock washer and nut, and tighten the nut. The installed shocks can be seen in figs. 1 and 3.
What if the Front Spring Sags Too Much?
A sagging front spring could present a problem. Too much sag may reduce the static length between
the front shock mounts and prevent the installation of the shock. Even if the shock can be installed, the
compressed length of the shock may be shortened. The piston in the shock will likely bottom out when
a large road bump is encountered, and the shock may sustain fatal damage if bottoming occurs
frequently.
How do you know if your spring sags too much? Les Andrews, the author of the “Model A Ford
Mechanics Handbook” says measure the distance between the ground and center of the front bumper
with the car’s tires fully inflated. On ‘28/’29s the correct measurement should be 18-11/16 +/– ½ inch.
On ‘30/’31s, the height should be 18-1/2 +/– ½ inch. The measurement on Jeff’s coupe was a mere 15
inches, which prompted him to replace the spring. Surprisingly, when the old spring was off and
measured, it was in spec, albeit at the lower limits. The new spring was well over the spec on the plus
side. It will be advantageous to disassemble the spring, sand the inside of the leaves, and apply
graphite-based “Slik” to the sliding surfaces. With the new spring installed, the ground to bumper
measurement on Jeff’s coupe was increased by some two inches.
Of course, the proof of the whole exercise is in the handling and ride quality. We are happy to report
exceeded expectations.
Expense Accounting
Four shocks at $20.99 ea ………………………. $ 83.96
Steel ……………………………………………. $ 10.00 (but some was lying around)
Two 7/16 x 3.25 bolts………………………….. $ 3.00
Other bolts, washers, nuts ……………………… $ 00.00 (also had these lying around)
Gas……………………………………………… ???? (Don’t ask.)
Subtotal………………………………………… $ 96.96
Fun-O-Meter offset………………..………………
(about 90% of subtotal)
Total…………………………………………….. $ 9.71
Incidental unrelated expenses……………………$117.00 (front spring and shipping)
Time spent………………………………………..
lots
Considering that you can use the templates and have in hand the part numbers of the shocks, you can
probably expect that your costs will land between $75 and $80 if you utilize a discount and up close to
$100 if you can’t.
For Serious Enduring A’s Members Only
As you well know, one of the benefits of projects such as this, is that you inevitably have considerable
time to multitask when doing routine operations such as sawing, bolt tightening, looking for tools,
cleaning stuff, cleaning up in-between and afterwards, waiting on hold for crucial information on the
phone, and pretending to listen to your spouse while she/he tells you how you could better live your
life. Personally, my favorite multitasking activities involve daydreaming, thinking of my next project,
imagining driving down the street in my new-and-improved Model A, and philosophizing. Regarding
the philosophizing, I might ask myself what it is about the Model A that motivates me (or you) to
continue. Why do we, that is you and I, bother with the Model A?
Do we want to have something that we can take pride in or see how perfect we can make
it?
Are we really and truly trying to preserve a piece of automotive history, as it says in our club
constitution?
Are we selectively remembering the “good ‘ol days” as we wish they were in contrast to
how they actually were?
Is it because the Model A has classic beauty and we admire beauty?
Is the Model A simply fun to work on?
Are we trying to mock the complexity of modern autos when in essence, the modern iron
no more than a Model A, only get us from point A to point B, but at a grossly
inflated cost?
Is it an inherited macho guy-type thing? (Sorry ladies, but we must explore all
possibilities.)
Are we overanxious that we soon won’t be able to legally drive Model A’s on public
roads once driverless cars become ubiquitous?
Do we think that we have found a hobby that is inexpensive (snicker, snicker)?
What exactly is it?
“Tube Shocks Conversions” will be the program topic at the April general meeting. It may appear
that, with this lengthy preview, the plot has been given away. But, you needed the templates, and so
…. well, here they are. While containing similar information, the program presentation and verbiage
will be reduced considerably, and rely more on self-explanatory pictures. In addition, the general
meeting will feature delightful treats provided by Carol and LouVee, door prizes, announcements, and
other revelations. And, with your help, we may attempt to answer the questions, “Why do we bother
with the Model A?” Why, indeed, do we do it? So, have your thoughts in order. See you on April 1st.