The 38 Essential Pizzas Across the Country - Eater 38

The 38 Essential Pizzas Across the Country - Eater 38 - Eater National
9/6/13 3:24 AM
The 38 Essential Pizzas Across the Country
Wednesday, September 4, 2013, by Amy McKeever
AL FORNO
The appeal of the pizza seems to know no bounds. While
New York, Chicago, and San Francisco are all packing a
number of absurdly great pizzerias, an excellent pie can be
had just about anywhere in the country. And in just about
ANTICO PIZZA NAPOLETANA
APIZZA SCHOLLS
BUDDY'S PIZZA
CANE ROSSO
any style: thin-crust, New York, deep dish, Detroit, bar,
COALFIRE PIZZA
New Haven, Chicago, grilled, California, tomato pies, and Neapolitan
DELANCEY
among them. This last style seems to have taken particular root over the
DELORENZO'S TOMATO PIES
last decade with pizza-makers across the country importing ovens from
DI FARA PIZZA
Naples and churning out margherita pies topped with San Marzano
DOMENICA
tomatoes and mozzarella di bufala.
EATER 38
The question, of course, is which of these restaurants qualify as absolute
FRANNY'S
must-stop pizzerias for the novice as well as the pizza snob. Earlier this
HARRY'S PIZZERIA
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year, Eater unveiled the Eater National Burger 38
HASMAP
<http://eater.com/archives/2013/04/17/the-38-essential-burger-
IGGIE'S
restaurants-across-the-country.php> in the grand tradition of the lists local
JOE'S PIZZA
sites have been putting out for years. And now, ladies and gentlemen, it is
KEN'S ARTISAN PIZZA
time to present the Eater National Pizza 38, the 38 essential pizzerias
(and restaurant pizzas) across the country.
LITTLE STAR PIZZA
87 COMMENTS
MANI OSTERIA & BAR
MODERN APIZZA
There are thousands of decent-to-excellent pizza across the country, and
MOTORINO
getting the list down to mere 38 was not an easy task. Much like the 38
OSTERIA
Essential Restaurants lists on the local sites, the list has been tailored to
PAULIE GEE’S
allow for both geographic diversity and a variety of pizza styles. While this
PIZANO'S PIZZA & PASTA
list focuses on the new classics, there's room as well for the landmarks that
PIZARO'S PIZZA
are still influencing pizzerias of today. The Pizza 38 focuses on the pies
PIZZA
themselves: fancy ovens and ambiance are nice but were not dealbreakers.
PIZZAIOLO
After composing a longlist of likely candidates, Eater consulted with a panel
PIZZERIA BIANCO
of curators consisting of chefs, television hosts, book authors, food festival
PIZZERIA LOCALE
organizers, food writers of all stripes, current and former Eater editors, and
PIZZERIA LOLA
other folks who are simply well-traveled pizza fans. They didn't agree on
PIZZERIA MOZZA
everything. In fact, more often than not, they disagreed on everything.
When there was a general consensus on a restaurant, it either made the list
or was vetoed. In other cases, the most passionate voices won out. Either
way, true fans of the art form vouched for the pizzas below.
If the panel couldn't always agree on which restaurants to include in the 38,
Eater certainly doesn't expect you to do so. Take a deep breath and air your
grievances in the comments.
Special thanks to all of those who helped inform this list: Mario
Batali, Adam Kuban, Lockhart Steele, Amanda Kludt, Michael Berman,
PUPATELLA NEAPOLITAN PIZZA
SALLY'S APIZZA
SANTARPIO'S PIZZA
SERIOUS PIE
SETTEBELLO PIZZERIA
SPACCA NAPOLI
STAR TAVERN PIZZERIA
TOP
Pizzablogger, Scott Wiener, Jonathan Kauffman, Michael Nagrant, Jason
TOTONNO'S PIZZERIA
NAPOLITANO
Feirman, Zach Brooks, Mike Thelin, Jessica Voelker, Jackie Gutierrez-
UNA PIZZA NAPOLETANA
Jones, Amber Ambrose, Ari Bendersky, Allecia Vermillion, Aaron Kagan,
VIA 313
Alexander Hancock, Andrea Grimes, and current Eater editors.
And now, in alphabetical order, the Eater National Pizza 38.
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Map data ©2013 Google, INEGI, MapLink
Eater National Pizza 38
Al Forno
Considered the birthplace of grilled pizza, Al
Forno is the rare pizza place with white
tablecloths and twinkling lights out by the
terrace. Pizza varieties include those topped
with calamari, local corn, spicy clams, and more.
Scott Wiener of Scott's Pizza Tours writes, "This
is the fanciest place I've ever eaten pizza and I
loved it. Fantastic grilled pizza with perfect
flavor balance and non-traditional herbs." Al
Forno is equally a restaurant as it is a pizzeria,
so expect to see plenty of pastas and other
Italian classics on the menu.
577 S Main St, Providence, RI 02903
(401) 273-9760
Website <http://www.alforno.com/>
Photo[]
Antico Pizza Napoletana
Eater Atlanta editor Sonia Chopra reports that
Antico "is by far the most talked about pizza
place in Atlanta." Giovanni Di Palma makes a
true Neapolitan pie — San Marzano tomatoes,
bufala mozzarella, extra virgin olive oil — in his
ovens imported straight from Naples. And it's
not just the pizza that keeps people coming back
1093 Hemphill Ave NW, Atlanta, GA
30318
(404) 724-2333
Website <http://www.anticoatl.com>
to Antico. Scott Wiener of Scott's Pizza tours
says, "This place has such a fun vibe and makes
a solid pie that blends the Neapolitan approach
with American sensibilities in an effortless way."
recently opened The owners also a new gelateria
and lunch spot.
Photo[]
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Apizza Scholls
Over the past eight years, the Neapolitan-style
pies at Apizza Scholls have cemented their
position as perennial favorites in Portland, the
Pacific Northwest, and nationwide. Feast
Portland co-founder Mike Thelin declares
Apizza Scholls the "best pizza north of San
Francisco." You can build your own 18-inch pie,
or select from house pies that range from the
plain tomato pie to a pig & pineapple pie with
house-cured smoked Canadian bacon, onions,
and pineapple on top. Apizza Scholls also takes
to-go orders.
4741 SE Hawthorne Blvd, Portland, OR
97215
(503) 233-1286
Website
<http://www.apizzascholls.com>
Photo[]
Buddy's Pizza
Buddy's is the original home of the Detroit-style
square pizza, having introduced it back in 1946.
Despite its age, Buddy's also remains one of the
most important, must-visit pizzerias in the
country. Over the decades, the original has
expanded into several more locations
throughout metropolitan Detroit. Chicago critic
Michael Nagrant writes, "This is the stuff I grew
up on and is still one of, if not the best pies in
the world. It's a destination must-eat every time
I'm in Detroit."
17125 Conant St, Detroit, MI 48212
(313) 892-9001
Website
<http://www.buddyspizza.com>
Photo[]
Cane Rosso
"There are two eras in Dallas pizza: the dark
ages before Jay Jerrier opened Cane Rosso in
Deep Ellum, and the beautiful time of light and
love that came after," writes Andrea Grimes,
editor emeritus of both Eater Austin and Eater
Dallas. These are true Neapolitan pies verified
by the Associazone Verace Pizza Napoletana —
as Grimes notes, "Jerrier's got a wild attention
to detail and is dedicated to getting Neapolitanstyle pizza just right every time." Jerrier has also
expanded his empire with a second Cane Rosso
another one on the way location (and ), plus
a new offshootcelebrating New York-style pie.
2612 Commerce St., Dallas, TX 75226
(214) 741-1188
Website <http://ilcanerosso.com>
Photo[]
Coalfire Pizza
Coalfire's thin-crust pizzas are — surprise! —
finished in a coal-fired oven to create what its
website describes as "an American spin on the
traditional Neapolitan style pizza." Critic
Michael Nagrant says Coalfire "is the closest
Chicago gets to NYC-style or East Coast pizza
and it's pretty damn close." Food writer and
former Eater Chicago editor Ari Bendersky
1321 W Grand Ave, Chicago, IL 60642
(312) 226-2625
Website
<http://coalfirechicago.com/>
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writes, "I'd eat this pizza all the time if it wasn't
on the other side of the city. I love the taste the
coal-fired oven adds to the crust and it's a
perfectly thin and crispy crust with amazing
delicious fresh flavors."
Photo[]
Delancey
Brandon Pettit and Molly Wizenberg opened
their Seattle pizzeria Delancey back in 2009,
and it quickly became one of the city's hottest
Seattle Metrestaurants. food and drink editor
Allecia Vermillion writes, "Goddammit if
Delancey doesn't totally deliver on all the buzz
and hype and crazy-high expectations. It's a rare
place where I will actually, gladly, wait more
than an hour for a table (especially if I can get a
seat at Essex, their next-door bar). The toppings
are on the simpler side, but there's always
something (anchovy, Padron chiles, brilliant
fresh mozzarella) that makes things interesting.
The crusts are beautifully blistery and a dash of
inconsistency is part of their charm."
1415 NW 70th St, Seattle, WA 98117
(206) 838-1960
Website
<http://www.delanceyseattle.com>
Photo[]
DeLorenzo's Tomato Pies
DeLorenzo's has been making its famous tomato
pies since 1947, but has only spent the last five
years in its Robbinsville location. This particular
location is run by the son of one of the previous
owners and Scott Wiener declares, "It's fantastic
with one of my favorite sausage pies in the
world. Solid crust that snaps at the end but
yields for the first few bites."
2350 Highway 33, Robbinsville, NJ
08691
(609) 341-8480
Website
<http://www.delorenzostomatopies.com>
Photo[]
Di Fara Pizza
"My all time favorite pizzeria, a pie at Di Fara's
is the ideal to which I judge all other pizza,"
writes Jason Feirman of I Dream of Pizza.
Indeed, there's no pizzeria on this list as
unanimously beloved by the panelists as Di
Fara. All of them point to the legendary Dom
Demarco, who is still making the square pizzas
and slices himself, as reason enough to wait in
line at Di Fara. Mario Batali explains, "Dom
DeMarco is the real deal pizziaolo and his pies
are worth the wait!!"
1424 Avenue J, Brooklyn, NY 11230
(718) 258-1367
Website <http://www.difara.com>
Photo[]
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Domenica
Chefs John Besh and Alon Shaya have earned
themselves a spot at the top of the New Orleans
pizza scene among a number of worthy
competitors. These artisanal wood-fired pizzas
can even be had on the cheap: Every day from 3
p.m. until 6 p.m., pizzas here are half off. Even
is lookingbetter, the restaurant group to open an
offshot concept called Pizza Domenica that
would focus on pizza, salads, and small plates.
Former Eater NOLA editor Alexander Hancock
writes, "Alon Shaya really knows his stuff, and
at Domenica he and the team is making pizzas
(and a whole lot other awesomeness) that not
only is among the best in New Orleans, but can
rival anything else in the country. I'd put money
on that."
123 Baronne St, New Orleans, LA
70112
(504) 648-6020
Website
<http://www.domenicarestaurant.com>
Photo[]
Franny's
newly relocatedThe Franny's is a quintessential
neighborhood restaurant with Neapolitaninspired wood oven pizzas to rival any others in
town. Pizzacentric's Michael Berman writes,
"You can taste how good the ingredients are
here. I think they shop at farmers' markets five
or six days a week for ingredients for the
restaurant. ... For this style of pie, I especially
like Franny's because it doesn't get soggy like
many of the others do."
348 Flatbush Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11238
(718) 230-0221
Website
<http://frannysbrooklyn.com>
Photo[]
Harry's Pizzeria
Chef/owner Michael Schwartz opened Harry's
Pizzeria in September 2011, and it has quickly
3918 N Miami Ave, Miami, FL 33127
(786) 275-4963
risen to become the purveyor of Miami's most
formidable pies. These thin-crust pizzas are
Website
<http://harryspizzeria.tumblr.com/>
cooked in a wood-burning oven with toppings
that range from the classic margherita to the
MGFD Bacon pizza topped with caramelized
onion, potato, cave-aged gruyere and arugula.
Urban Daddy's Jackie Gutierrez-Jones writes,
"Michael Schwartz can do no wrong. Great fig
and pork pie, pizza/beer brunches and a stellar
series of chef pop-up dinners with famous
pizzaiolos from around the country."
Photo[]
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Iggie's
Iggie's is tops in a town that is starting to get
818 N Calvert St, Baltimore, MD 21202
much more serious about pizza. Jason Feirman
of I Dream of Pizza rates it an 8.8 and explains
(410) 528-0818
Website <http://iggiespizza.com>
"their toppings on many pies are a bit out of the
ordinary, but not so much so that you’d say:
they put that on pizza?! For example: tomato
ragu, cumin, and roasted duck all make their
ways on (separate) pies. You don’t normally see
such ingredients on pizza, but they each make
sense." Iggie's uses Neapolitan-style dough and,
rather than accept tips, the restaurant gives
money to a different charity each month.
Photo[]
Joe's Pizza
There was significant debate among the
panelists as to the best New York slice, but
7 Carmine St., New York, NY 10014
(212) 366-1182
Famous Joe's Pizza took the edge, and for good
reason. Per Eater NY editor Greg Morabito:
Website
<http://www.joespizzanyc.com>
"Joe's is the quintessential New York $2.50
slice, bar none, absolutely with a bullet. They in
just expanded to their second location40 years.
It's what people think about when they think
about a New York slice, and they're amazingly
consistent. Family owned and operated."
Photo[]
Ken's Artisan Pizza
Portland baker Ken Forkish and chef Alan
Maniscalco are behind this pizzeria that serves
304 SE 28th Ave, Portland, OR 97124
(503) 517-9951
up pies — fired in a wood-burning oven — that
were inspired by trips to Italy. Expect blistered
Website
<http://www.kensartisan.com/pizza.html>
crusts and pies that include margherita, a New
Yorker, olive, soppressata, and fennel sausage
and onions. I Dream of Pizza's Jason Feirman
writes, "I love this spot. Some of the better
Neapolitan type pies I've had. Cool vibe. It's
right out of Portlandia. A must-have on the list."
Jason Lander/Flickr[Photo: ]
Little Star Pizza
Eater San Francisco editor Allie Pape vouches
846 Divisadero St, San Francisco, CA
for the deep dish pies at Little Star Pizza, which
she notes even supplies the recipes for the pizzas
94117
(415) 441-1118
at St. Louis pizzeria Pi. (A favorite of President
Barack Obama.) Tasting Table's Jonathan
Website
<http://www.littlestarpizza.com>
Kauffman agrees, writing that Little Star has
"the best Chicago-style deep-dish pizza in the
Bay Area, mostly because the crust has a
flakiness to it that makes it seem a little lighter."
There are three locations in the Bay Area,
including two in San Francisco proper. They
also offer bicycle delivery.
eric molina/Flickr[Photo: ]
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Mani Osteria & Bar
Mani Osteria has gotten a lot of attention since
it opened in Ann Arbor more than two years
341 E Liberty St, Ann Arbor, MI 48104
(734) 769-6700
ago. These thin-crust artisanal pizzas are fired
in a wood-burning oven and include varieties
Website <http://maniosteria.com>
such as margherita, peach pie, clam pie, burrata
Metro Times and balsamic, and more. The ' Evan
wrote last year Hansen that these pizza-makers
"do a great job, producing arguably the best Old
World-style pizzas in the region."
Photo[]
Modern Apizza
Though its Wooster Street counterparts tend to
874 State St, New Haven, CT 06511
get the bulk of the pizza attention for their New
Haven-style pies, Modern is the pizzeria that
(203) 776-5306
Website
panelists liked best in town. Modern serves the
thin-crust apizza that has become synonymous
<http://www.modernapizza.com>
with New Haven, and Scott Wiener notes that it
also "has the quirky option of American cheese."
Eater Editorial Director Amanda Kludt writes, "I
love the vibe of this place and their clam pie."
Ethan Prater/Flickr[Photo: ]
Motorino
Motorino is New York City's essential spot for
349 E 12th St, New York, NY 10003
Neapolitan wood oven pizzeria, offering clam
pies, Stracciatella, and more. Scott Wiener of
(212) 777-2644
Website
Scott's Pizza Tours writes, "Great crust and
perfect blend of richness in the sauce and
<http://www.motorinopizza.com>
cheese. It's a real modification of Neapolitan
pizza with more emphasis on order than speed."
They've got locations in the East Village,
Williamsburg and, now, even Hong Kong.
Photo[]
Osteria
Chef Marc Vetri's Osteria doesn't focus
exclusively on pizza, but it still serves a damn
640 N Broad St, Philadelphia, PA
19130
fine example of a pie. Mario Batali casts his vote
for Osteria, while I Dream of Pizza's Jason
(215) 763-0920
Website
Feirman writes, "Everything is delicious here."
The menu offers a few neapolitan-style pies
<http://www.osteriaphilly.com>
(mortadella, marinara, and peperoncini) as well
as traditional pies like a margherita, or those
topped with housemade meatballs or octopus.
Look for even more of these well-liked pies
opens this Fallwhen Pizzeria Vetri .
Photo[]
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Paulie Gee’s
Paul Gionnone's spin on Neapolitan-style pizza
60 Greenpoint Ave, Brooklyn, NY
has attracted scads of attention from the pizza
cognoscenti over the years (in fact, full
11222
(347) 987-3747
disclosure, two panelists had to recuse
themselves from weighing in on this pizzeria
Website <http://www.pauliegee.com>
due to their connections to it). But these pies
with names like Arugula Scmoogula, Feel Like
Bacon Love, Hellboy, and A Whiter Shade of
Kale get that attention for good reason. Scott
Wiener of Scott's Pizza Tours explains, "A cozy
room and incredibly tasty pizza make this one of
my favorites in town. You know it's good when
your list of 'must eat' pizzas is often more than
the number of people at the table. Absolutely
one of the best."
Photo[]
Pizano's Pizza & Pasta
Chicago restaurant critic Michael Nagrant calls
Pizano's "the best deep dish in the city, hands
864 N State St, Chicago, IL 60610
(312) 751-1766
down." Owner Rudy Malnati, Jr. comes from a
celebrated line of Chicago pizza-makers — his
Website
<http://www.pizanoschicago.com>
father opened Pizzeria Uno in 1943 and now his
mother is responsible for the dough at Pizano's.
Beyond the deep dish, Pizano's is also highly
acclaimed for its Chicago-style thin buttercrust
pies.
Photo[]
Pizaro's Pizza
Houston's most admired pizzas come out of the
wood-fired brick ovens at Pizaro's Pizza
14028 Memorial Dr, Houston, TX
77079
Napoletana, yet another pizzeria that focuses
solely on traditional Neapolitan pies. Food
(281) 589-7277
Website
writer and former Eater Houston editor Amber
Ambrose writes, "The best part about this place
<http://www.pizarospizza.com/>
is that it's slightly hidden in a suburban area of
Houston. There's no fancy decorations, no valet
out front, no extensive wine list, no pretension
whatsoever. What there is, however, is a familyrun place with a real focus on authenticity. ...
the owner is so concerned about everyone
having the freshest pizza that he refuses to do
take-out or delivery."
Photo[]
Pizzaiolo
Pizzaiolo owner Charlie Hallowell previously
5008 Telegraph Ave, Oakland, CA
worked in the kitchen at the iconic Chez Panisse
for eight years before launching Pizzaiolo out in
94609
(510) 652-4888
Oakland. Tasting Table's San Francisco editor
Jonathan Kauffman writes that Pizzaiolo is his
Website
<http://pizzaiolooakland.com>
favorite Northern California style pizza,
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explaining, "The crust is bubbly, a little smoky,
with a good crunch. But just as important is
what Charlie Hallowell puts on the pie: nettle
leaves and pecorino, say, or Monterey Bay squid
and cherry tomatoes. The pies change regularly,
and the chef is always thinking of the pizza as a
dish."
Arnold Gatilao/Flickr[Photo: ]
Pizzeria Bianco
James Beard Award-winning chef Chris Bianco
623 E Adams St, Phoenix, AZ 85004
is the man behind the cultishly beloved Pizzeria
Bianco in Phoenix, Arizona. This is the kind of
(602) 258-8300
Website
pizzeria for which people make pilgrimages for
Bianco told Eater last year its pies that use
<http://www.pizzeriabianco.com>
Naples as a reference but not dogmatically so.
Mario Batali writes, "Chris Bianco's pizza is
exceptional, in large part because he has the
Italian sensibility to let the fresh ingredients
speak for themselves." Good news for the people
of Tucson: Bianco there sometime in the near
is opening up a second locationfuture.
Photo[]
Pizzeria Locale
Eater Denver editor Andra Zeppelin reports that
Boulder's Pizzeria Locale "is up there with any
1730 Pearl St, Boulder, CO 80302
(303) 442-3003
Neapolitan pizza I've ever had." The team
behind Frasca Food and Wine opened this
Website <http://localeboulder.com/>
pizzeria a couple of years back in Boulder — and
just recently openedthey a second location in
Denver, too. Master sommelier Bobby Stuckey
and chef Lachlan MacKinnon-Patterson
describe Pizzeria Locale as a contemporary take
on the traditions of Naples. The pizza menu
includes a selection of both red and white pies.
Photo[]
Pizzeria Lola
There's no shortage of great pizza in the Twin
5557 Xerxes Ave S, Minneapolis, MN
Cities and Eater Minneapolis editor Claire
Stanford says Pizzeria Lola is a local favorite
55410
(612) 424-8338
thanks to its "really inventive toppings, some
Korean influence ... and also great ingredients."
Website
<http://www.pizzerialola.com>
has hailedChef Andrew Zimmern Ann Kim's
pies as among the finest in America,
recommending particularly the popular
Sunnyside pizza (guanciale, leeks, cream,
pecorino and sunnyside up eggs). And 's Dara
Minnesota Monthly Moskowitz Grumdahl ,
gave it a rave review writing, "The crust is
incredibly dimensional—bready, smoky, sweet,
light, and deep. The toppings are equally great:
various, deeply considered, and delicious."
Photo[]
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Pizzeria Mozza
In November 2006, dream team Nancy
Silverton, Mario Batali, and Joe Bastianich
641 N. Highland Ave., Los Angeles, CA
90036
opened Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles, where it
has since become an absolute staple for the
(323) 297-0101
Website <http://www.mozza-la.com>
locals. (Not to mention a must-stop for pizza
snobs passing through the City of Angels.) Zach
Brooks of Midtown Lunch and the Food Is the
New Rock podcast writes, "Selling massive
amounts of carbs to a restaurant packed with
Angelenos day in day out is a feat worthy of
praise in and of itself. They're doing god's
work."
Photo[]
Pupatella Neapolitan Pizza
Pupatella got its start as a food truck and later
5104 Wilson Blvd, Arlington, VA 22205
opened a brick-and-mortar in Arlington,
Virginia, just outside of DC. Chef Enzo Algarme
(571) 312-7230
Website
adheres strictly to the Neapolitan pizza style in
his casual 45-seat pizzeria. He bakes his pies for
<http://www.pupatella.com/_/home/home.html>
one minute in a scorching hot wood-burning
oven to the point where they are leopardspotted and wet in the middle just as it should
be.
Photo[]
Sally's Apizza
Another thin-crust New Haven entry, Sally's is
much loved especially for its red pies. There are
237 Wooster St, New Haven, CT 06511
(203) 624-5271
fierce rivalries between this and Frank Pepe's,
but Eater Boston's Rachel Leah Blumenthal is
Website
<http://www.sallysapizza.net/default.aspx>
Team Sally's. She offers up a few tips for anyone
looking for one of these legendary pies, writing,
"The cool/terrible thing about Sally's is that you
wait hours for a seat and then hours again once
you're inside because they only cook one pizza at
a time. And there's a special reservation and
takeout phone number that only friends/family
know."
Photo[]
Santarpio's Pizza
Santarpio's is one of Boston's classic pizzerias,
111 Chelsea St, Boston, MA 02128
constantly voted to best-of lists for the New
York-style pizza they've been slinging since
(617) 567-9871
Website <http://santarpiospizza.com>
1933. I Dream of Pizza's Jason Feirman writes,
"Their pies were great and this place really
encompasses 'tough and gritty' Boston. It's no
frills — there isn't even at TV at the bar — and
you sort of feel like you're an extra in a Mark
Wahlberg film."
Photo[]
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The 38 Essential Pizzas Across the Country - Eater 38 - Eater National
9/6/13 3:24 AM
Serious Pie
Serious Pie is the Neapolitan-inspired
316 Virginia St, Seattle, WA 98101
brainchild of Seattle's expert baker and
restaurateur Tom Douglas. Tasting Table's
(206) 838-7388
Website
Jonathan Kauffman writes that Douglas "made
sure it was uniquely Seattle: The oblong pies,
<http://tomdouglas.com/index.php?
page=serious-pie>
cooked in an applewood-fired oven, are
assertively crackly and airy, but not tough.
Douglas uses local clams, local mushrooms, and
a variety of salumi the cooks make in house." 's
Seattle MetAllecia Vermillion adds, "I'm a
sucker for the crust, which engages in some
serious salt brinksmanship. ... Toppings hit that
sweet spot between overly simple Neapolitan
and 'let's pile a bunch of random shit on top'
excess."
Photo[]
Settebello Pizzeria
Settebello has a few locations spread out
through the West, including two in Utah and
two in California. Scott Wiener of Scott's Pizza
Tours is a fan of the Henderson location,
140 S Green Valley Pkwy, Henderson,
NV 89012
(702) 222-3556
Website <http://www.settebello.net>
writing, "This is beyond a doubt one of the best
Neapolitan pizzas I've eaten ever. That includes
San Francisco, New York and Naples itself.
Settebello is incredible and completely
unexpected in a place like Las Vegas." These
traditional Neapolitan pies are also a mainstay
Las Vegas Eater 38on the .
Photo[]
Spacca Napoli
Chicagoans revere the traditional Neapolitan
1769 W Sunnyside Ave, Chicago, IL
pizzas coming out of the wood-burning ovens at
the 10-year-old Spacca Napoli. Food writer and
former Eater Chicago editor Ari Bendersky
explains, "Spacca deserves to be on any top
60640
(773) 878-2420
Website
<http://spaccanapolipizzeria.com/>
pizza list, Chicago or otherwise. It was really the
place that started the Neapolitan movement
here and has held its place at the top. The crust
is perfectly crispy and doughy and wet in the
middle. While they have their staples like the
margherita with mozzarella, basil and pecorino,
I love their funghi e salsiccia and the prosciutto
e rucola — the fresh arugula adds a perfect
pepperiness. This is one of the few places in
town that makes you feel like you've actually
traveled to Naples for dinner."
Photo[]
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The 38 Essential Pizzas Across the Country - Eater 38 - Eater National
9/6/13 3:24 AM
Star Tavern Pizzeria
Star Tavern is a go-to pizzeria for thin-crust bar-
400 High St, Orange, NJ 07050
style pies, which it has been serving in Orange,
New Jersey, for the past 65 years. I Dream of
Pizza's Jason Feirman writes, "This place serves
the best bar pies I've had. ... They're super thin
(973) 675-3336
Website <http://www.startavern.net>
and super cheap and always satisfying."
Varieties include cheese, Sicilian tomato,
eggplant, white clam, pesto, and more.
Photo[]
Totonno's Pizzeria Napolitano
Slice founder Adam Kuban declares Totonno's
1524 Neptune Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11224
the best iteration of coal-oven style pizza in New
York. This Coney Island pizzeria was recently
closed for nearly five months as a result of
Hurricane Sandy's devastation, but demand is
(718) 372-8606
as high as ever for the thin-crust wonder that is
Totonno's pizza. Mario Batali writes, "I go to
Coney Island once or twice a year…just for this
pizza!"
Prince Roy/Flickr[Photo: ]
Una Pizza Napoletana
New York City pizzaiolo Anthony Mangieri
210 11th St, San Francisco, CA 94103
moved his highly respected Una Pizza
Napoletana to San Francisco back in 2010 and
set off to dominate the local Neapolitan pizza
scene. Tasting Table San Francisco editor
(415) 861-3444
Website <http://www.unapizza.com>
Jonathan Kauffman writes, "This may be the
best Neapolitan-style pizza in America —
certainly on the West Coast — because Anthony
Mangieri is so damn single-minded. His
minimalist approach (5 pies, no salad) pisses off
a lot of people, but also rewards close attention.
The crust bubbles where it wants to bubble,
chars in just the right spots, and never seems to
be the same pie as the last one you ordered."
Photo[]
Via 313
The best pizza coming out of Austin right now
actually happens to be from the Detroit-style Via
313. Slice founder Adam Kuban verifies the
legitimacy of these square pies, noting that they
1111 E 6th St, Austin, TX 78702
Website <http://via313.com/>
are "as good as Buddy's, if not better."
Meanwhile former Eater Austin editor Andrea
Grimes writes that these pies "are the kind of
non-fussy drinking fuel you'd expect from a
couple of bearded brothers in a trailer outside a
dive bar. And yet, this isn't just drunk food:
these guys use high-quality ingredients they've
specially selected for the perfect meaty, savory
Detroit pizza taste. You don't eat Via 313 pizza.
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