Installation of SBD Supercharger on 1300cc Hayabusa

S B D Motorsport
Installation of SBD Supercharger on 1300cc Hayabusa
Drill out throttle body bolt holes
In order to fit the plenum to your
throttle bodies, the holes must be
drilled out to 5.50mm. This should
be done before fitting the throttle
bodies together.
installing the bleed fitting into the throttle bodies
Early throttle bodies will require drilling & tapping as shown below.
New specification boides are pre-tapped and only require the 4mm hole drilled through.
Early throttle bodies only
Drill out to 5mm
Make thread M6
Insert bleed fitting
using an Allan key
4 bleed valves
Insert the injectors spacers
into the fuel rail
Put silicon on the injector o-rings & insert into the fuel rail.
Attach the fuel rail & injectors
to the throttle bodies & hold in
place with the end two bolts.
Attach the throttle cable bracket
to the centre bolt holes. Do not
tighten the bolts yet.
Use a rod (eg 1.5mm welding rod)
to centre the bracket so the throttle
cable runs straight. Once centred
tighten all the bolts of the fuel rail.
When fitting your throttle cable,
ensure that the cable clamp (or
fixed end eye) length is 4.5mm
maximum. If you are using our
throttle cable clamp, you will
need to trim off 2.5mm from the
slotted end (shown left).
VERY IMPORTANT
This should be done with the injectors
& fuel rail fitted. With the throttle
stop screw undo or loose, put the
butterflies fully shut with your finger,
then adjust the adjacent cross link as
shown making sure the grub screw
just touches. Do this across all
butterflies, this is to help ensure that
all the butterflies are set up the same.
Once you think you have completed
this, hold up to the light to make sure
no gaps can be seen through any
of the butterflies. Then with your
finger operate the throttle cable lever
ensuring that all the butterflies open
at exactly the same time. If they do
not repeat the process again. This
is one of the most crucial parts of
setting the butterflies up.
When finally locking up use an allan key
at the same time as the spanner to ensure
you do not accidently move the adjusters.
Finally re-check the whole set-up.
throttle pot picture
Please fit the throttle pot now, but leave
throttle pot loose & throttle pot screw
loose as this will be dealt with later on
in the set-up.
Insert air temperature sensor into
plenum using copper slip.
Attach throttle bodies to plenum using
copper slip.
NOTE: Take care not to cross-thread
the bolts going into the plenum
Tighten connections on fuel
regulator mount. Lubricate
the regulator o-ring with a
small amount of silcon
(provided with the injectors).
Insert the regulator into the
mount & tighten the bolts.
Attach the T-piece to
the plenum.
Connect the dump
valve to the T-piece as
shown using jubilee
clips. (shown right)
Attach the boost sensor
to the T-piece using 2
cable ties. (shown left)
Cut the vacuum hose into the following lengths & attached to
t-pieces as shown:
5mm hose: 7 x 35mm, 2 x 65mm, 1 x 250mm
3mm hose: 1 x 220mm
Attach the vacuum pipes to the bleed valves as shown below.
Use a cable tie to hold the vaccum
hose on to the fuel regulator
FITTING THE THROTTLE POTENTIOMETER
You have two throttle potentiometer options PT1 or PT8.
Culven Throttle Pot PT1
This will need the 3 pin sure seal connector fitted to it. First make sure you have about 25mm of the red, yellow &
green cables protruding out the end of the black cable shield. Strip 5mm of cable outer off of each of the three wires
and “tin” each wire using a soldering iron or gun. Now using a crimping tool fit the electrical pins to each of the 3
wires, being careful to ensure the correct pin is fitted to each wire. Solder each terminal onto its wire once it has been
crimped.
Pin 1 – Green or Blue – Male pin
Pin 2 – Yellow or Black – Female pin
Pin 3 – Red – Female pin
Green or Blue wire to ECU Throttle Reference (5v Out)
(Pin 1 – pin - on SBD-Sure seal)
Yellow or Black wire to ECU Electronic Ground
(Pin 2 – socket - on SBD-Sure seal)
Red wire to ECU Throttle signal
(Pin 3 – socket - on SBD-Sure seal)
MBE9A4 ECU Pin out for Throttle sensor
5v Reference
Electronic Ground
Throttle Signal
= Pin 22 of ECU
= Pin 23 of ECU
= Pin 20 of ECU
The terminals will now need inserting into the rubber Sure seal socket, this is
done by spraying some silicon spray (or equivalent) on the terminals and into
the rubber socket, and then evenly pushing the terminals into position from
the back. Be careful to ensure the correct pin is fitted into the correct position. The sockets, when fitted correctly, should be flush with the inside rubber
part of the connector & the pin level with them.
The throttle potentiometer is now ready to be fitted onto the throttle system.
Note – The pin positions are marked on the rubber sure seal at both ends.
The throttle potentiometer will only operate correctly if fitted the correct way
around. The potentiometer must be mounted with the lip on the side, facing
outwards, and the clamping plate will then fit on over the lip.
PT8 comes with the sure seal connector already fitted. It will only fit on the
left hand end of the throttle bodies.
IMPORTANT NOTE
In most Cases the voltage for the throttle pot when the engine is at idle is 0.36 Volts this is however only for engine
that have been programmed by SBD. You will also need to know the units of air when the engine is at idle (this will be
in KGs per hour) & the fuel pressure your engine was mapped.
Connect the sub harness LM992E-GSXR-S-PECO to the injector & throttle pot connectors & cable
tie in position. Attach the rubbers to the throttle bodies with the jubilee clips.
Shorten 3 centre bolts by 2mm & install
generator into cover
Attach generator cover to the engine,
including the relevant gasket. new bolts
supplied.
Insert spacers using rubber mallet
Use Loctite 243 to assemble tensioner bearing to mount
using bolt supplied Deeper side towards the mount.
Leave the plastic covers on the supercharger until connecting the pipes to the
supercharger to prevent bits getting in to it. IMPORTANT: THE SUPERCHARGER PULLEY
MUST NOT BE ROTATED IN AN ANTI-CLOCKWISE DIRECTION. THIS WILL DAMAGE THE
SUPERCHARGER.
Assemble & tighten banjo bolts to
angle shown in picture.
Fit belt before bolting the supercharger to it’s mounting, using the shorter bolt in counterbored hole as shown. Additional bolt supplied.
Insert tension pulley, leave slack.
The drive pulley must line up with the bolt on
the end of the crankshaft/generator. Only
rotate supercharger clockwise to achieve
this. This must be done whilst connecting the
supercharger to the generator. We recommend using a smear of engine oil on to the
shaft & seal to ease assembly. Do not force
supercharger on when the alignment is made,
assembly should fit together easily.
To tension the supercharger belt, remove the
sticker from the centre of the supercharger pulley
(use small screwdriver), this will reveal an 8mm
allan bolt.
Using an allan key attempt to rotate the super charger in a
clockwise direction whilst applying gentle pressure to the
spanner (supplied with kit). The tension will be correct when
the supercharger pulley stops slipping & attempts to turn
over the engine. DO NOT APPLY MORE TENSION THAN
NECESSARY AS OVER-TENSIONING WILL DAMAGE
ENGINE & SUPERCHARGER.
Then lock the two pinch bolts as shown left.
Attach the throttle bodies & plenum to the engine.
NOTE: This is a dry fit & you will need to remove the plenum later to set the idle.
Fit the straps to hold the plenum to the engine. These should be attached to the plenum first (not
tightly) then connected to the engine. Once the strap is in position, the bolts can be tighten.
NOTE: Take care not to cross-thread the bolts going into the plenum
Connect the plenum to the supercharger as shown above using the silicon hose & aluminium
pipes remembering to remove the red plastic cover from the super-charger. The short aluminium
pipe is used between the silcon T-piece & 90-deg bend.
We would strongly recommend you fit an intercooler to achieve the best performance from your
supercharger.
Connect the air filter to the supercharger, removing the red cover first. Attached the short silicon
hose to the supercharger first, then attach the air filter, ensuring that the supercharger end & the
air filter end do not touch. Tightened the jubilee clips
IMPORTANT NOTE: Please refer to supercharger instructions for plumbing, priming & running in
of your supercharger
HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH SPRINGS
The kit is supplied with an uprated clutch spring kit, simply remove the
clutch cover casing, remove the original clutch springs, washers
& bolts. Fit the new uprated components supplied & refit clutch
cover. If the gasket is damaged in any way, replace with a new one.
See the end of the instruction sheet for other recommended options.
Set-up Procedure
**NOTE**- Before attempting to start setting up you will need a Syncrometer & either
a computer with Easimap6 software + a CAN/USB adapter or a voltmeter
Setting up idle RPM & voltage at idle is the most important part of getting your engine running
correctly. If you do not set these correctly, your engine will not run properly. The only way the ECU
knows how much fuel is required to make the engine run correctly is by the amount of air being
drawn into the engine at idle. The Syncrometer, as shown in the pictures, are available from us, or
many reputable Motorsport accessories suppliers. The Syncrometer is extremely accurate and can
measure kilograms of air per hour. Without the use of this type of meter, you will not be able to set
up your engine accurately enough.
1. Before you start your engine for the first time, you must make sure the throttle pot is at least
set at a point which will allow you to adjust the idle settings easily. If you have a computer with
Easimap 6, connect it using the CAN/USB lead to the 985 harness. When you turn on the ignition
which will power up the ECU, the computer screen will display the throttle position voltage, which
is the voltage you must set your throttle pot to when the engine is idling. These are detailed in the
table.
ENGINE
FUEL
INJECTOR
PRESSURE NO
IDLE VOLTAGE IDLE SPEED
(check with engine kg/ph
TARGET IDLE ENGINE
IGNITION
SPEC
FUEL
TYPE
GSX1300R
3.5 bar
INJ690P PECO
0.36 v
1450rpm 6.0kg/ph
4.00 Degree
SC01
98/99RON
GSX1300R
3.5 bar
INJ690P PECO
0.36 v
1450rpm 6.0kg/ph
4.00 Degree
SC02
98/99RON
running)
If you don’t have a computer then connect the
voltmeter to the Yellow wire & Black wire on the pot
connector.
2. With the ignition on & engine NOT running set the
voltage to less than the idle voltage, by loosening the
2 screws & twisting the pot. (e.g. 0.3 volts) This is an
ideal starting point.
0.3
minimum
For setting of the idle you’ll now need to remove the plenum from the throttle bodies, leave all
vacuum pipes attached to the throttle bodies, fuel regulator & pressure sensor when carrying out
the idle set-up.
NOTE: To remove the plenum you will need to remove the throttle bodies from the engine first by
loosening the jubilee clips. Then once this is all loose the throttle bodies can be disconnected
from the plenum by undoing the bolts, then the throttle bodies refitted to the engine to enable idle
set-up to be done.
3. Take your vacuum gauge and place it in the position
as shown right.
You should now attempt to start your engine, if your
engine starts first time and keeps running, this is great
because it means you are not a long way out from the
vacuum you require.
If the butterflies are a long way out, e.g. too far open
or too far closed, you may find it difficult to start. If you
managed to get the engine to run for a few seconds take
a note of the vacuum from the Syncrometer, if the vacuum is too small, then you need to adjust the
throttle stop screw to increase the amount of air going in and then try again (only make small adjustments to the throttle stop and make sure the voltage you see is never greater than the idle voltage. Re adjust the throttle pot if reqd to read lower than the idle voltage). If the air shown on the
Syncrometer is too great, then reduce the throttle stop screw, to reduce the amount of air going in.
4. Once you have got the engine
running, you can then balance the
butterflies by using the screws in
between the bodies as shown right.
Throttle stop screw
Balancing screw
5. Using the throttle stop screw,
adjust the butterflies until you get 6
kilograms of air per hour, once you
have done this, set the throttle
position sensor to the idle voltage of
0.36v.
6. You now need to adjust the throttle position sensor
to read the correct idle voltage. If you fail to set the
throttle pot to the correct voltage, the engine is likely
to not respond well when the throttle is opened (picture 9)
0.3
7. After setting the correct voltage check the butterflies for the correct amount of air.
8. Again check the idle voltage to ensure this is still correct. Re set if required.
9. Once throttle idle voltage & vacuum is as listed then you are set up correctly.
10. Remove the throttle bodies from engine & reattach plenum, taking care not to cross-thread the
bolts going into the plenum. Then re-attach the whole set-up to the engine.
IMPORTANT NOTES
FUEL PUMP
Ensure your fuel pump is sufficent to flow fuel up to 450bhp. We recommend you use our pump
FP1. (Some pumps look similar but do not supply the same amount of fuel - check the technical
specifications with your supplier.)
FP1
High pressure fuel pump.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
You will need to the exhaust manifold & system must be made to our dimensions to see the full
performance of the kit (this will be supplied when you purchase the kit). If you do decide to use a
different exhaust manifold system to our recommendations, you will definately need to have the
engine remapped on a rolling road or dyno to take this into account otherwise damage will definately occur. It is also likely you will not see the performance quoted.
ROLLING ROAD
Due to possible variations in engines ( compressions, rebuilt), we recommend that your engine is
checked on the rolling road to ensure the map is fine tuned to your engine to ensure damage does
not occur.
SBD Motorsport cannot accept any responsibility if any of the above
are not complied with.
RECOMMENDED OPTIONS
Due to the increase in power output by the supercharger conversion, the following list of optional
extras are recommended to add strength & reliability. They are put in order of importance. Please
contact us for details.
Heavy duty output shaft GEAR-B-BUSA-OP-HD
This is a heavy duty output shaft which has a
Honda blackbird spline, this is much stronger
than the original Suzuki spline as these
can occasionally shear.
CLT-BUSA-HD-BILLET-BASKET-02
The billet basket is designed to replace the standard item that can fracture & break up.
The new version is CNCd from solid & is suitable for high revving applications & our
supercharged installation due to the smooth increase in boost (turbo applications
require a back plate as well).
CLT-BUSA-HD-BILLET-CENTRE
The billet centre is designed to replace the standard centre. This eliminates the back torque
limiter which makes clutch chatter when subjected to rapid take offs, thus allowing smoother
starts.
Cometic head & base gaskets
GSK-SUZ-H-HC & GSK-SUZ-H-BC-010
We recommend the use of the Cometic head & base gasket in all
installations due to their superior design, they give better sealing
particularly in high stress applications. We recommend the use
of the head & base gasket together as the combination of the
two when used on your engine gives an identical thickness to the
original components.
Uprated ARP head studs BLT-H-STUD-BUSA-01
The ARP head stud kit is made from a very high quality material
with superior strength over the standard component, which allows
better clamping with more accurate & even loading. In our opinion, in most applications there is no need to go to a bigger stud
diameter due to superior quality.
Dry Sump system & Electric water pump
OS-DSK-BUSA-01 & WT-PM5-EWP-1B
Our dry sump system for the Suzuki Hayabusa includes a twin stage scavenge pump which replaces the original water pump (you will need to use an
electric water pump) which mounts directly to our billet dry sump pan without
the need for any hoses. The pump can be easily fitted & removed in minutes
if required. You will only need to provide a supply from your dry sump tank & a
return to the tank (via oil cooler if required). The billet is extremely rigid & will
add strength to your engine. There are 4 additional lugs with M8 threads which
allow you to mount directly to the floor of your car if required.
Latest improvements to the design, the oil pressure
relief valve system has been altered to recirculate
straight into the supply line, this reduces the amount
of work the scavenge pumps have to do & keeps more
oil in the dry sump tank.
Steel con-rods ROD-SUZ-1.3-BUSA-S-02
Steel con-rods which are although not essential
to this conversion due to the nature of the supercharged engine which doesn’t normally rev higher
than the standard engine, if the driver accidently
selects the wrong gear & mechanically over-revs
the engine, they give the extra comfort & peace of
mind.
Uprated main stud kit BLT-MK-STUD-BUSA-01
The (ARP) main stud kit replaces the standard main cap bolts which are particularly poor quality on the standard
Suzuki engine. These are made from a far superior material give accurate & consistant loading across the main cap
assembly giving a consistant & even load across the bearings helping to keep better control over flexing in the lower
part of the block.
Heavy duty shift shafts
GEAR-B-BUSA-SS-HD
The heavy-duty shift shafts are designed to replace the original tubular versions. The
standard item has a tendency to distort in use & sometimes permanently bend
particularly in motorsport use, this upsets the selector fork alignment, which can
cause missed gears, incorrectly selected gears & even the gearbox to jump out of gear.
Thus speeding up the wear of the gearbox itself. Whereas the heavy-duty ones are made
of solid machined steel thus preventing the distortion so eliminating the above problems.
Lock-up Clutch
Coming soon