PDF - Hikeast.com

Contents
Turkey Map 7
10 Things Not To Mis 9
İstanbul 10
Beyoğlu 12
Sultanahmet 24
Kadıköy 30
Islands 34
Around İstanbul 36
İznik
42
Çanakkale 44
Assos 48
Bozcaada 50
Gökçeada 52
Ayvalık 54
Lesvos/Mytilini 56
İzmir 60
Çeşme 62
Foça 64
Bergama 66
Ephesus 68
Şirince 71
Kuşadası 82
Denizli / Pamukkale 73
Muğla
Gökova / Akyaka 76
Dalyan 78
Köyceğiz 81
Datça 82
Bodrum 84
Marmaris 86
Lycian Way 88
Fethiye 90
Ölüdeniz 92
Kayaköy 94
Faralya 98
Kabak 99
Xanthos – Letoon 101
Pınara 102
Patara 103
Kaş 104
Demre 108
Olympos 110
Kumluca / Adrasan 115
Antalya 117
Mersin / Kızkalesi 118
Ankara 120
Cappadocia / Göreme 122
Nemrut 128
Diyarbakır 130
Mardin 132
Hatay 134
Van 135
Doğubayazıt 139
Black Sea 140
Safranbolu 141
Amasra – Samsun – Trabzon 143
Sümela 144
Rize 145
Kaçkar Mountains 146
Georgia 148
Batumi 150
Tbilisi 152
Borjomi 155
Turkish-English Dictionary 157
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How to Use This Guidebook
Camping
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 İnternet
Wi-Fi
Hike East is a free guidebook bringing tons of
great information about traveling in Turkey
right to your fingertips- including discounts on
all kinds of services throughout the country,
from hostel stays to drinks to extreme sports
experiences.
We provide an easy-to-understand, useful
and up-to-date guidebook to make your
travels in Turkey as memorable and affordable
as possible, and best of all, all this info is
completely on the house!
You can pick up a print version from any of the
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Promotions offered through Hike East are only
valid when you show up with the guidebook in
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booking, not through third-party providers.
Responsible Travel
We hope that your travels in Turkey will be eye-opening and full of fantastic discoveries along
the way. Turkey is a major destination for travelers across the world, though, and the impact
of tourism on the environment has the potential to cause significant damage. Please be
responsible as you explore this beautiful country!
•ReadaboutthecultureandcustomsofTurkey;alwaysabidebythelocallaws
and etiquette!
•Patronizelocalsmallbusinessesasmuchaspossible
•GettoknowthefriendlyandwelcomingTurkishpeoplewhereveryougo
•DoyourbesttolearnsomeTurkish
•Alwaysberespectful.Wearappropriateclothingandaskbeforetakingpictures
•Don’tlitter!
•Abidebypostedsigns
Trekking Tips
Turkey has some of the world’s most amazing hiking trails, and we know you can’t wait to get
your boots on and get going. To make your experience the best it can be and minimize your
environmental impact, make sure to...
•Trekingroupswheneverpossible
•Followmapsandsigns-don’ttakeshortcuts!
•Prepareappropriately.Bringenoughsuppliesandplanahead
•Asklocalguidesfortipsandinformation
•Checkintothecurrentconditionofthetrailsbeforeleaving
•Carryoutallyourtrashwithyou
•Leavethewildlifealone
•Neverlightfires
•Onlycampwhereit’spermitted!
Transportation in Turkey
By air: Turkey is a big country, and flying is definitely the fastest way to get from place
to place, and can be quite cheap if you book in advance. Flights between major cities
depart frequently. The national carrier is Turkish Airlines (www.turkishairlines.com) and
there are a number of budget providers such as Pegasus Airlines (www.flypgs.com/en/) or
Sunexpress (www.sunexpress.com).
By bus: Long-distance buses are a common way to get around. Travel times are often
daunting, but the fares are cheap and the coaches are comfortable. Many of the longhaul journeys are overnight. Check out carriers such as Varan (www.varan.com) and
Pamukkale(www.pamukkale.com.tr).Notethatitcanbedifficulttobookahead;however,it’s
nearly always possible to buy a same-day ticket. Reputable companies include Ulusoy
(www.ulusoy.com.tr), Nilüfer (www.nilufer.com.tr), and Metro (www.metroturizm.com.tr).
By rail: Trains service fewer destinations than buses in Turkey and take longer to arrive,
but tend to be cheaper. TCDD is the government operator- their website can be found
at www.tcdd.gov.tr.
By boat: You can reach many places along the Mediterranean coast and the Sea of
Marmarabyferry;additionally,manylinesruntoItalyandGreece,aswellastheUkraine
(across the Black Sea). You can check the schedules online at www.ido.com.tr.
By car: Make sure you know how to drive a stick shift if you’re planning on renting a car
in Turkey. Note that fuel is expensive and there are often tolls along major roads. You
drive on the right side.
Transport in cities: Buses, dolmuşes (shared taxis), private taxis, subways, and trams are all
commoninTurkishcities;askthelocalsfortips.Additionally,ferriesareacommonwayof
crossing between Asian and European İstanbul.
Useful Websites
www.tourismturkey.org
The Ministry of Tourism’s official site
www.turkishdailynews.com
English-language news about Turkey
www.mymerhaba.com
An expat website about everything Turkey
www.seat61.com/Turkey.htm
A great resource for train travel in Turkey
www.sehirrehberi.ibb.gov.tr/map.aspx
A useful Istanbul city map with roads and transportaition info
www.garaj.org
Find out about Turkish music and shows
www.bugday.org
Infoaboutecology and sustainability in Turkey
www.istanbulcycles.weebly.com
Alternative bicycle tour for İstanbul.
www.gezegence.com
A travel siteforTurksandforeigners.InTurkish
www.thegate.com
The website of one of Turkey’s leading English magazines
www.turkishclass.com
Learn some Turkish!
www.artwalkistanbul.com
Guided Tours for contemporary art galleries
Emergency Phone Numbers
110 Fire
155 Police
112 Ambulance
156 Jandarma (local constables)
DISTANCE CHART
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For the full schedule and line-up,
visit us at www.hikeast.com/music
Don’t Miss These Ten Things!
1.
Exploring the awesome and often-overlooked Basilica Cistern
2.
Crossing between Europe and Asia on a ferry in İstanbul
3.
Losing yourself in the winding alleys of the Grand Bazaar
4.
Going out for drinks and dancing near İstiklal Street in Beyoğlu
5.
Eating a kebab, a Turkish favorite
6.
Taking in the spectacular ruins at Ephesus
7.
Soaking in the natural hot springs at Pamukkale
8.
Wandering through the incredible ghost town of Kayaköy
9.
Hiking the Lycian Way
10. Getting an eyeful of the amazing fairy chimneys in Cappadocia
10
İSTANBUL
Turkey’s largest city and the only one on earth to have been the capital of two different empires
(theHolyRomanEmpireandtheOttomanEmpire),İstanbulstraddlesEuropeandAsia.Theages
have known İstanbul by many different names- some of the most familiar being Byzantium
and Constantinople. Today, the city center is roughly divided into three parts by the Bosphorus
Strait: the comparatively quieter Asian side is dominated by the district of Kadıköy, while the
European side is home to historical Sultanahmet and, across a channel, the modern center of
Beyoğlu.
Nearly every visitor to Turkey will spend time in
İstanbul at some point on their journey. You could
easily wile away weeks or months exploring all
the corners of this fascinating and lively city, but
if you’re on a strict time budget, plan ahead
and make sure you have time to fit in all
the exploring you want to do. Full
of history and blended EuropeanAsian-Middle Eastern culture and
history, you’re sure to find tons
to do!
12
İSTANBUL
Beyoğlu
Making up the northwestern sector of the
city center, Beyoğlu is among İstanbul’s most
moderndistricts;itstartedoutasaCatholic
neighborhood across from the Muslim areas
of today’s Asian side, and has historically
led the charge of Westernization in the city.
There’s plenty to see and do in Beyoğlu, both
in terms of sightseeing and just soaking in all
the culture and tradition İstanbul has to offer.
with all kinds of folks, Turks and travelers, at
almost any hour of the day.
Ifanysinglespotcanbecalledtheheart
of İstanbul, it’s Taksim Square. Full of
restaurants and upscale hotels, the square
is also a major transportation hub- you can
catch a dolmuş or bus to anywhere in the
city from here. Take a look at the Republic
Monument which was erected in 1928. Also
make sure to head to Taksim Square if you
happen to be in İstanbul during a holiday
or festival- chances are, that’s where the
action is!
At the other end of İstiklal you’ll find Tünel
Square, home to the second-oldest subway
line in the world, second only to the London
Underground.It’salsooneoftheshortestat
justover550meters;takeitfromtheKaraköy
ferry dock up the hill to the end of the
pedestrian walkway.
The famous İstiklal Street in central
Beyoğlu proceeds from Taksim Square at
one end to Tünel Square at the other, with
the tiny Galatasaray Square constituting the
midpoint. İstiklal is roughly two kilometers
long and is first and foremost a pedestrian
street;certaintypesofservicevehicles,such
as police cars and garbage trucks (as well
as the old-fashioned red tram which runs
from end to end), can be seen, but nearly all
the traffic along its length is on foot. İstiklal
is known for fantastic shopping, awesome
nightlife, and maybe above all, unbeatable
people-watching.It’spackedtothebrim
Beyoğlu
İSTANBUL
13
While in Beyoğlu, take an afternoon stroll through the relatively unknown neighborhood of
Cihangir. Considered to be modern İstanbul’s most bohemian area, Cihangir (down the hill
from Taksim Square, toward the waterfront) is a maze of small streets and cluttered little shops
selling everything from retro clothing to dusty antiques. Cihangir is heaven on earth for bargain
hunters and those in search of more alternative and unusual wares than İstiklal has to offer.
You can spend your time here getting lost in the winding alleys, sitting at a cafe beside the
Bosphorus, or sorting through piles of second-hand clothes on the lookout for deals.
By Tünel Square at the other end of İstiklal, see Galata Tower, built in 1348 by the Genoese.
ClimbtothetopofthetowerforaspectacularviewoftheBosphorus;thisisoneofthemost
impressive panoramas you’ll find anywhere in İstanbul.
Getting to Beyoğlu
Ifyou’rearrivingattheairport, the most straightforward (although not the cheapest) way
to get to Beyoğlu is on one of the frequent HAVATAŞ shuttles. Getting to Taksim Square with
HAVATAŞ will set you back 13 TL from Sabiha Gökçen Airport on the Asian side, or 10 TL from
Atatürk International.
Alternately, you can get a bus to Taksim from just about anywhere. The 61B line runs from
Beyazıt (near Sultanahmet), the 110 from Kadıköy, and the 96T from Atatürk Airport.
Dolmuşes are even more frequent, and depart from just about everywhere in İstanbul to
Taksim.IfyoustillholdanAKBİL,beinformedthatyoucannotuseitanylonger:theyhave
beenreplacedbytheIstanbulKart,whichyou’llbuyfor6TLfrommostofthekiosksselling
newspapers around. This card works almost in all the public transports, and has to be loaded
according to the needs (considering that a normal fare is 1,95 TL per ride).
Ifyou’recomingfromKadıköy, the fastest way to reach the Galata area is by ferry (1,95 TL
withthecard,3,00TLwithjeton);headtothedocksandsimplylookforaboatwiththesign
“Karaköy.”
Heading south to Taksim from Ayazağa or Levent, the subway is your best bet.
İSTANBUL
Beyoğlu
Chillout Cengo Hostel
Chillout Cengo is among the
city’s most popular and wellknow options for budget
traveler.Itiscentrally
located in the hearth of
Taksim, just minutes
away from busy
IstiklalStreetand
a very short walk
to Taksim
Square. Friday and Saturday
nights here are loud and
spirited affairs where you will
have no trouble making friends
to hit the bars with. All of the
best of Beyoğlu bars and
clubs are just beyond your front door. Don’t
stress out about cutting your night short
since the reception is 24 hours a day and
there’s a no-lock out policy.
Check in
as a
Guest,
Stay as a
Friend

Hüseyinaga Mah.
Atıf Yılmaz Cad.
Halas St. No. 3, Beyoğlu
+90 212 251 31 48
[email protected]
www.cengohostelistanbul.com
Chillout Cengo employs some of the
friendliest staff members around. They’re all
knowledgeable about the city and can help
you with just about anything- insider tips for
the best places to go on a rowdy Friday night,
the best routes to Sultanahmet for some
sightseeing, or restaurant recommendations
that won’t break the bank. You’ll also get a
free map of İstanbul to help you explore the
city on your own. Don’t forget to grab one,
because this city is huge!
There are 70 beds, so chances are that even
if you show up without a reservation at 3 am,
they’ll have a place for you to sleep. Choose
from a private room (ensuite or with a shared
bathroom) or a 6, 8, 10, or 12-bed dorm. You
can get free tea all day, and there’s a guest
kitchen if you want to prepare your own
meals.Otherwise,headtotheChilloutcafe
next door.
The staff at Chillout Cengo pride themselves
on keeping the hostel clean- no worries
about nightmare bathrooms here. And of
course, you’ll be supplied
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with fresh sheets, so there’s
no need to lug around a
sleeping bag.
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10%
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Beyoğlu
15
İSTANBUL
Chambers Of The Boheme

Katip Çelebi Mh.
Küçük Parmakkapı St.
No:13 Beyoğlu
+90 212 251 09 31
[email protected]
www.chambersoftheboheme.com
The friendly staff is multi -lingual so you can
take the opportunity to ask for precious tips
to wander around the city. They also offer
some tours around Turkey and they can
help you arranging your stay in other places
around the country. For any advice you might
need, ask to the owner. You’ll love his stories
about the history of the building!
Rated by Hostelworld as Turkey’s best hostel
in 2009, you really can’t go wrong with
the stylish Chambers of the
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Boheme.It’sjustaboutascloseas
you can get to İstiklal Street, and
perfectly situated for a wander
around Çukurcuma or Cihangir. The
management at Chambers of the Boheme
knows that they have a majorly impressive
reputation to uphold, and they keep the
premises spotless. Safety
isalsoatoppriorityhere;
there are safe-deposit
boxes inside, and the
24-hour reception is
always on the
ball to
make
sure that
your stay
in İstanbul is
totally secure.
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10%
The four-bed mixed dorms are simple
and cozy, all coming with clean linens.
The bathrooms are shared, but tidy and
numerous. There are even separate showers
so you don’t have to wait around for
someone to finish brushing their teeth before
you can hop in.Additionally, they offer a
discount of 10 percent for groups starting at
10 people.
Check out the game room and the barbecue
area!
photo: Bijoyeta Das
www.bijoyetadas.com
16
Beyoğlu
İSTANBUL

Route 39
Ömer Avni Mh.
Mebusan Yokusu No: 39,
Findikli, Beyoglu
+90 212 249 19 01
[email protected]
www.route39istanbul.com
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Located between the characteristic
neighborhood of Cihangir and Kabataş,
the hostel is a good alternative for those
whowantstoenjoyIstanbul’snightlifeand
then have a good sleep once back to the
hostel. Also a very good location in terms of
transportation (tramway to Sultanahment,
ferry to the Asian side and the islands and
fewstepsawayfromIstiklal).Chilled
and friendly atmosphere and all kind of
accommodation options: private en-suite,
private shared bathroom, mixed dorms.
Amazing terrace with Bosphorous view,
where breakfast is served and spontaneous
among-guests parties are likely to take place.

Bunk Hostel
Bunk Hostels represent a
meeting of two great thingsstyle and affordability. The
soon-to-be chain was started
by a group of five partners
from England Germany, and Turkey with a
common vision of classy accommodation in
one of the world’s liveliest and artsiest cities.
This is anything but your run of the mill,
damp-flooredplacetoslingyourbags;Bunk
prides itself on cleanliness and an upscale
feel at a completely affordable cost,
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with touches like clean fluffy
towels, marble bathrooms, and
free lockers to make you feel like
an honored guest.
D
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10%
Balık St. No. 7,
Kamer Hatun Mah., Beyoğlu
+90 212 244 88 08
[email protected]
www.bunkhostels.com
Relax on the comfy couches or sunbathe
after a long day of getting pleasantly lost in
thebigcity.Ifyourbonesfeelparticularly
weary, you can hop into the rooftop jacuzzi
with a beer. Not tired? No problem! Bunk’s
cafe transforms into a bar after dark, so the
party never has to stop. The friendly staff also
understands that you may have a brimming
nightlife agenda, so there’s no lockout here.
Galata-Karaköy
17
İSTANBUL
Rapunzel Hostel
Five years ago three close
friends have created
a place for cultural
conjunction in the hip
areaofIstanbul,Galata.
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10%
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Within this five years they
had many guests from
all over the world
which gave them the
courage and will to
make it a better hostel everyday. Rapunzel is
recentlyrefurbishedin2014bytheideaof“DoIt
Yourself” in a building which is over150 years old.
Bereketzade Mah.
Bereketzade Camii St. No:3
Galata / Beyoğlu
+90 212 292 50 34
[email protected]
www.rapunzelistanbul.com
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They offer not only bright, spacious en-suite
rooms with AC but also terrace gatherings,
insider tips about concerts, festivals and
exhibitions. Wi-Fi, breakfast, maps and a lot
moreiscomplementaryatRapunzel.Itisafairy
tale at the heart of the city, offering you a cozy
and comfortable base from which to explore the
unforgettablebeautyofIstanbul.Checkoutthe
terrace with a great view of theGolden Horn and
Galata Tower (a mere one minute walk away).
Ithastheperfectlocationanyonecanaskfor,
somestepsawayfromIstiklalStreet,butalsoeasily
reachable to Sultanahmet with its diverse option of
room from single to 6-bed dorms.

Caupo Hostel
Maliye cad. Çelebi st.
No:3 34425 Karaköy
+90 212 243 86 66
[email protected]
www.caupohostel.com
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10%
You can relax in chilled out common room,
complete with a cup of coffee and satellite
TV, or catch up with friends and family over the
Internet.Wi-FiAccessisalsoavailablethroughout
the hostel. Caupo has a communal kitchen, where
you can make yourself a hearty meal or quick
snack... Note to mention that most of the Caupo’s
services are free of charge like linens, lockers,
luggage storage, bookexchange and laundry is also
available with a reasonable price.
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Caupo is a warm and
friendly Hostel that
is located in Karaköy,
opposite the Galata
Tower between touristic
areas and great night life.
They have a wealth of experience in the industry
and know what guests value and need during
their stay.
Here you can also find a wide variety of
room types according to your budget from
ensuite doubles to 8-bed dorms.
Caupo is located in the Heart of old city, a short
walk from Karaköy Tram Station and quite close to
theattractionsofIstanbul,includingDolmabahçe
Palace, Galata Bridge, Egyptian Bazaar, Blue
Mosque, Beyazıt-Grand Bazaar, and Taksim Square.
AlthoughIstanbul’sbrilliantnightlifeisonyour
next door, you can still have a quite sleep after a
busy party night in Taksim.
18
İSTANBUL
Beyoğlu
Cafes, Bars & Restaurants
You’ll love the atmosphere of Beyoğlu, full of
small cafes, bars and restaurants.
Z-Books Cafe Store (Tosbağa St. No:11/A
Galatasaray) you can find the books you are
not looking for! Grap a delicious cup of coffee
and enjoy your discovery.
Seratonin Craft & Design (Turnacıbaşı St.
No:44/B), charming little place in Çukurcuma
selling handicrafts and homemade dishes.
www.serotonincraft.com
Cafe 26A (Tel St. No:26/A), for fair trade
supporters, this place is run by a collective
an closer to the heart of Taksim. They
offer all sorts of homemade products
“without concern for profit” as a way of
counterbalancing the destructive influence of
major corporations. The cafe is run by a crew
of 30 volunteers and also functions as a social
space for workshops and screenings.
(www.kolektif26a.org)
Uçuncü Mevkii (Öğut St.), in one of the tiny
streetsbehindIstiklal,smalllocantawith
delicious homemade food. Don’t wait for the
waiter. Pick the menu, paper and pen, send
down your order with the small lift, wait for
your food to come up.
Parsifal (Kurabiye St. No: 9/A) is a small
vegetarian restaurant with moderate prices
and alternative-friendly atmosphere.
Zencefil (Kurabiye St. No: 8-10) on the same
street, is another vegetarian restaurant, in
a nice colorful radical chic style and slightly
upper-range prices.
Thesearejustfewsuggestions.Ifyoucrawl
around the small streets departing from
Istiklal(onbothsides,particularlybetween
Taksim Square and Galatasaray), you’ll find
thousands of options for any taste. Every
corner is a treasure.
Beyoğlu
İSTANBUL
19
Nightlife in Beyoğlu
The same streets that during daytime host cafes and small lokantas, become theater of one of
the most lively nightlife in Europe. İstiklal and the adjoining streets are absolutely the places
to go in İstanbul if you’re looking for a night out. Mix with locals and grab yourself an Efes at a
chilled out bar, or head to a dance club if you want to get moving. A walk down the main street
any time after dark will get you excited to start the party- you’ll see people from all walks of
lifedressedtotheninesandreadyforanightonthetown.It’samazinghowİstiklalchangesits
colors come dusk, and what you thought was a street full of shops and restaurants suddenly
becomes a line of bar after bar after bar... choose one and get drinking!
Ritim Roof & Pub (Balık Pazarı St.), with its
cheap beers, is a meeting place of Erasmus
students and locals. They have downstairs table
on Balık Pazar and a wonderful terrace at the
last floor of the same building.
Ritim Galata (Galata Kulesi St. No: 3/C) has the
same owners of the Ritim Roof & Bar. This pub is
a little bit more chill-out, right in front of Galata
tower, a good place to have a seat and eat
something at a reasonable price or drink a beer
at night enjoing the view on the tower.
The Mekan (Atıf Yılmaz Caddesi, No:17A) is a live music venue mostly hosting alternative
artists from all around Turkey, among which Luxus and Baba Zula.
Kara Kedi Alternative and cheap place, Kara Kedi (Black Cat) is a perfect cafe-bar for a beer in
İstanbul’s underground atmosphere. Mostly live performances after 21:00 and no enterance
fee ever! recently they are located in Asmalımescit area, but a change is probable, check out
their facebook page (facebook.com/Karakedistanbul).
Babylon Performance Hall (ŞehbenderSt.No:3;www.babylon.com.tr),abitclosertoGalata,
isoneofthemajorvenuesinIstanbul.There’salwayssomethinghappeninghere,fromhappy
hour to live shows and theme nights! This is also where the major concerts in town are held.
20
İSTANBUL
Beyoğlu
Leyla Teras
ThisplaceisatasteoftherealIstanbul.If
youwereinIstanbulbefore,notethatthey
moved from Bekar st. to some floors below
on Mis St.. With frequent performances by
local bands and street musicians, as well as
rakı nights on the regular, this is the place to
be if you’re after a taste of authenticity and
liberalism. Check out their Facebook page to
see what’s going on! To get there, reach Boş
Zamanlar and go to the forth floor. You may
see many of the artists who were playing
duringthedayonIstiklalperformingonthe
stage, or some new international amateur
band.
Şht. Muhtar Mh. Mis St. No: 6,
3rd floor; Beyoğlu
[email protected]
facebook.com/pages/Leyla-Teras
Leyla Terras is
the place for
the promising
underground artists
of Turkey and not
only.
Arsen Lupen
Counterculture slightly metal atmosphere
andterraceonthetopwithviewonIstanbul.
Beers at affordable prices,rich menu of
cocktails and a a good place to meet with
young locals. This place is ideal to have a
quiet chat at sunset or enjoy the concert of
some beginner bands on weekends. Just be
careful not to miss it! Walk down on Mis st.,
look on your left until you reach Address
Restaurant Bab-ı Ali at number 15. This place
Şht. Muhtar Mh.
Mis St. No:15, top floor,
Beyoğlu
+90 0542 661 53 46
facebook.com/ArsenLupenTeras
is actually a quite expensive restaurant but
don’ t be scared: you’ll enter there only to
take the lift and go up to Arsen Lupen on the
4th floor.
Beyoğlu
İSTANBUL
21
Barba
A newly open vintage-stylish pub with a vast
variety of of local and international beers (60
differenttypes).Ifyoupreferacocktail,ask
the staff: they have some secret ones that are
not on the menu. A cozy environment perfect
for a chat with old and new friends. Don’t
be shy, order your favorite beer and join a
table. Quite hard to find: when you reach the
third floor of the building you enter a place
calledTheMekan.Itisthedoorontheright
behind the curtain. The name of the Bar has
an interesting story: apparently the people
managingpubsandbarsduringtheOttoman
times were mainly Greeks or non-muslim.
Mis St. No:6 2nd floor
Beyoğlu
+90 535 471 77 96
[email protected]
facebook.com/BarbaPub
So the guys delivering
the barrels of beers,
were non-muslims and
were generally called
in lingua franca “barba”,
probably because of
the latin meaning of it:
“beard”.
Çukur Mey-Hane
Among one of the oldest places in
Beyoğlu, this tavern is very central (next to
Galatasaray) and at the same time far from
thenoisesandthecrowdofIstiklal.Keep
your eyes open, this meyhane is not
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easy to spot: it is in the basement.
Right place to taste some delicious
mezeler in a quiet and suggestive
atmosphere, accompanied by some
good rakı! Do not try to contact them by
email, because they don’t use it. Better to call
before showing up. They tend to fill all the
tables every night. A must to try: yaprak ciğer
(liver leaves!).
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Çukur Meyhane
Turnacıbaşı Cad.
Kartal St. No: 1/A,
Galatasaray / Beyoğlu
+90 212 244 55 75
22
İSTANBUL
Beyoğlu
Bookshops in Istanbul
Althogh it is not too easy to find bookshops selling publications
inlangugaeseitherthanTurkish,onIstiklalStreetandBeyoğlu
area you’ll find some if you really look for them. The classical
readsfortravelersinTurkeyareElifSafakandOrhanPamuk.If
you want to break the lines, ask to the bookshops to advise you
something new. For the ones who walk in with serious intentions,
with Ahmet Altan.
Mephisto Bookshop & Cafe
İstiklal Cad. No: 125,
Beyoğlu +90 212 249 06 96
www.mephisto.com.tr
For avid book readers and bookshop lovers,
we suggest you to stop by Mehpisto, right on
Istiklal.Hereyouwillfindbooks,musicCD’s,
Movie DVD’s, books in English and a very upto-datecatalogueofTurkishbooks.Onthe
basement you’ll find all sorts of stationery
products and some nice gifts to bring back
home.WhataboutanoldmapofIstanbulfor
example?Onthefirstfloor,youcanenjoya
coffee or tea and spend some time observing
thefreneticlifeofIstiklalfromabove.
With a good offer of books in English, this
bookshop is particularly advisable for music
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lovers, thanks to the great variety of Turkish
music CDs on sale: from folk music, through
pop,tojazzandclassicalmusic.IfTarkanis
the only Turkish star you know, it might be
a good idea to push your knowledge about
Turkishmusicastepfurther.Askthestaff;
they are really knowledgeable and they speak
English! You can listen to the CD’s before
deciding which one to buy.
Are you thinking of learning Turkish? Well,
this is the right place to look for grammar
text books and good dictionaries. You’ll find
also plenty of Guide Books in case you are
planning to travel from Turkey to somewhere
else.
The bookshop occasionally hosts authors for
book presentations and seminars.
Beyoğlu
23
İSTANBUL
Shopping in İstanbul
Even if you didn’t come to İstanbul with the intention of
souvenir shopping, the ubiquitous bazaars and low prices will
change your mind in a hurry.
The alternative clothing shop Clandestino has four locations
throughoutthecity(includinginKadıköyandBeyoğlu;takea
look at their website at www.clandestino.com.tr for addresses
and a look at some of their products).
Another great choice for stylish and relaxed clothing is Tola Tola, located at Serdari Ekrem
Caddesi No. 15/B in Beyoğlu. Both men and women can find great deal on ethnicallyinspired and artful clothes and all kinds of cool accessories here. The latter section makes for
particularly good browsing- check out their handbags, hairbands, and gloves, among many
others. You can find their site at www.tolatola.com.tr.
Ifyouwanttodiveintotheheadyexperienceofbazaarshopping,don’tmissTerkos Pasajı,
famous for its dirt-cheap second-hand clothing. Find the passage on the right side of İstiklal
Street as you walk toward Tünel from Taksim Square. You can spend a whole afternoon here
and leave with armfuls of shirts and such for mere liras apiece. Semt pazarları (neighborhood
markets) are another local favorite. Held on various days across the city, these temporary
marketsaregreatforbuyingfruitsandvegetables,aswellasavarietyofotherwares.Oneof
thebestistheTuesdayandFridaymarketinKadıköy,closetoHasanpaşa;ontheEuropean
side, have a wander through Nüzhetiye Street in Beşiktaş on a Saturday.
Aponia is a very graphic business, brainchild
ofdesignerFatihDağlıandco-founderOrçun
Çetinkaya.Itbeganlifein2009locatedinthe
heartofIstanbul.
Aponia caught the public eye in 2012 with
thereleaseoftheIstanbul-FromAponia
- With Love collection, which was warmly
received by visitors and locals alike. The
company’s bestseller sees the city’s most
recognisable features tangled up inside
a complex cat’s cradle, with the words
“Istanbul.Theycallitchaos,wecallithome”
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Aponia Store
Asmalımescit Mah.
Hazzo Pulo Pasajı. No: 108/4E
[email protected]
www.aponiastore.com
scrawled beneath it, and has become an
iconicIstanbulimage.
Building on the success of this collection,
Aponia continues to create new graphics,
satisfying their appetite for surprising, and
amusing people. Check out their website
(www.aponiastore.com) for the new designs.
24
İSTANBUL
Sultanahmet
The oldest part of İstanbul, Sultanahmet
is home to the majority of the city’s most
well-known and impressive ancient sites.
The district is located on a peninsula across
a narrow body of water from Beyoğlu- you
can cross on a footbridge- and is bounded
bythreebodiesofwater;fromhere,the
panorama takes in the Sea of Marmara,
the Bosphorus, and the Golden Horn.
Sultanahmet is serviced by a tram line which
can take you all throughout the peninsula.
Arguably the most famous of İstanbul’s
sights, the Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya in
Turkish) is a magnificent sixth-century
basilica built by the Roman emperor Justinian
Iandlaterconvertedtoamosqueinthe
fifteenthcenturybytheOttomanconquerers.
Onlyinthelastcenturywasitturnedintoa
museum, its present incarnation. Spectacular
enough from the outside, the inside of the
building is not to be missed either. Check out
the fantastic mosaics within.
Topkapı Palace was used as a royal residence
bytheOttomansfortwo-thirdsoftheir624year reign. Today, it ranks up there as one of
İstanbul’s most-visited tourist destinations,
and houses such important Muslim relics as
the Prophet Mohammed’s sword. There are
four separate courtyards to visit, each with a
different style and a wide variety of artifacts
to view. Linger over the arms collection in the
second courtyard or the extensive harem.
Built, like the Hagia Sophia, during the
reignofJustinianI,theBasilica Cistern
is a lesser-known but just as fascinating
facet of Sultanahmet’s historical legacy.
Originallyconstructedinordertoensurethe
city’s continued water supply in the event
of a siege, it was also used as a filtration
system for the palace. The slightly creepy
atmosphere of the cistern will make you feel
likeyou’vesteppedbacktothesixthcentury;
wend your way through the pillars and take a
peek at the gigantic resident fish.
Sultanahmet
Archaeology enthusiasts will have the
time of their life checking out the massive
Museum of Archaeology located near
Topkapı Palace. Divided into three parts- the
Archaeology Museum proper, the Museum of
IslamicArt,andtheMuseumoftheAncient
Orient,everythingyoucanimaginerelated
to İstanbul’s dramatic history can be found
here. The collection related to Alexander the
Great is among the most striking- it includes
an adorned sarcophagus which was once
believed to belong to the conqueror himself.
You’ll also find Sumerian tablets and a host of
marble statues.
Next to the Blue Mosque and the Hagia
Sophia, you’ll find the Hippodrome of
Constantinople, so named, of course,
because it was built during the Byzantine
period. For centuries, the Hippodrome was
used as a center of sporting events and social
life;unfortunately,thestructuredidnotmake
it to modern times unscathed, and today
there are only obelisks and sculptures still
standing. Nevertheless, it’s a must-see while
you’re in Sultanahmet. Check out the German
Fountain in the adjacent square.
Another of the most famous landmarks in
İstanbul, the Sultan Ahmet Mosque (usually
known as the Blue Mosque) is centrally
located on the peninsula. Unlike the Hagia
Sophia, it’s still used as a working mosque,
so you’ll have to cover up appropriately in
İSTANBUL
25
order to enter. The blue tiles inside lend the
buildingitscolloquialtitle;therearemore
than 20,000 handmade tiles decorating the
interior.
Called the world’s shopping oldest mall, the
Grand Bazaar is more than worth a visit
even if you don’t have anything to buy. You
can find absolutely anything here, and spend
an afternoon or ten wandering the narrow
alleys. The bazaar is primarily known for
its spices and Turkish carpets, but jewelry,
clothing, and, well, pretty much everything
else on earth can be had here too. Time to
hone your bargaining skills!
Don’t miss a hamam experience while you’re
here- after a scrub and massage here, you’ll
feel like you’re truly clean for the first time in
your life. Çemberlitaş is one of the best and
most famous in the area- give them a call at
+90 212 522 79 74 to book your experience.
Ifyou’rehungry,gostraighttothefamous
Sur Ocakbaşı at İtfaiye Caddesi No. 19,
probably the best place in the whole city to
get a kebab. Superbly fresh ingredients and a
friendly atmosphere!
26
Sultanahmet
İSTANBUL
Bahaus Hostel İstanbul
The consistently award-winning Bahaus
Hostel in Sultanahmet is just a short walk
away from all the major attractions in the
area- you can’t get more central than this!
They’ve got everything you need for an
exciting (and comfortable) stay- hairdryers
andfreeInternet,aDVDcollectionandfree
use of the safe deposit boxes. You don’t need
to worry about security while you’re here,
because it’s a top priority for the staff to make
sure that you and your belongings are safe
and sound.
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Which is convenient, because
you’ll be too busy partying
to have time to worry about
whether your valuables are
safe or not. Winter-time activities such as
free movie nights, karaoke nights, and belly
dancing nights give way in the summer to
good old fashioned drinking and dancing.
There’s no lockout, so stumble home anytime
youfeellikeit!Orifyou’dratherstayinto
drink, never fear- there’s a bar in the hostel.
The dorms are all scrupulously cleaned and
extremely comfortable- they’ve even thought
of some cool innovations of their own which
you’ll wish every hostel included, like privacy
curtains for the dorm beds! There’s also a
fantastic open-air rooftop terrace where you
can enjoy a meal at any time of the day or
night and take in the view all around you of
the Sea of Marmara and the spreading

Akbıyık Cad.
Bayram Fırın St. No. 11
+90 212 638 65 34
[email protected]
www.bahaushostelistanbul.com
panoramaofAsianİstanbul.Ofcourse,
they’re always ready for a party at Bahaus, so
if you want to grab a drink in the moonlight
before hitting the town, you certainly won’t
be alone!
Sultanahmet
İSTANBUL
Piya Hostel

Constructed in a renovated police academy,
this cute pink building is everything you’re
looking for if you like to be close to the action
and right in the thick of things. The location
couldn’t be better for sightseers, who will
appreciate being just steps away from the
heartofoldIstanbul.You’llalsoappreciate
the huge breakfasts (with more than ten
items available in a morning buffet) and the
attention to cleanliness which means you
won’t have to deal with the grime plaguing
so many hostels.
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Bring your inside voices and
positive vibes. Piya Hostel is
dedicated to maintaining an
atmosphere of respect without
discrimination on any grounds.
27
Akbıyık Camii St. No:22
+90 212 458 20 60
[email protected]
www.piyahostel.com
Dorms are available for 4, 6, or 8 people, as
well as one private room. You can also get
one of the two apartment rooms with ensuite
kitchen and bathroom. Tea and coffee are
free for all guests, as well as lockers to store
your valuables.
İstanbul Hostel

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Stylish yet simple, İstanbul Hostel is a great
choice for budget travelers who value
accessibility and good service. With both
dorms and privates, İstanbul Hostel is just a
short walk from the center of Sultanahmet,
ideally located for visiting all of the
monuments in historical
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İstanbul.
All the dorms have air
conditioning and heating
so you can sleep in comfort. The shared
bathrooms are clean and tidy, not your
typical grotty backpacker fare. There’s a
61-inch TV in the common room with movie
Kutlugün St. No. 35
+90 212 516 93 80
[email protected]
www.istanbulhostel.net
theater-quality sound, and they show all the
latest movies on a regular basis. Wireless is
available not only in the lobby but in the
rooms as well.
İstanbul Hostel is all about comfort and
safety- you can feel at home here while
surrounded by all the fantastic mosques and
bazaars of old İstanbul!
28
Mosques of Istanbul
by Marion Howa
ThesilhouetteofIstanbulisafantastic
accumulation of giant domes, glass roofs,
steel covers, antennas, rusty staircases, cupola,
terraces, laundry lines, wild top gardens
and thin minarets. When the sun falls, the
light turns the landscape horizon into an
extraordinary colour, between pink, orange,
purple and grey. At twilight, muezzins start
to sing. Mosques are beautiful because as you take
off your shoes, you feel that you come into a
wonderful living-room, with softness of the
carpet, powdery light, lively blue ceramics,
horizontals suspended chandeliers, and
precise marketery on heavy doors. Don’t
miss Rüstempaşa Camii , in Eminonu, with its
interioralmostentirelycoveredbyspecificIznic
deep blue tiles. Columns, walls, porches, are
all carefully decorated, ceramics are detailed
with refinement and its horizontal ferforge
candelabrum gives an unsuspected volume to
the dome. Pass by the secret Sokullu Mehmet
Paşa Camii, just behind Sultanhamet, for its
narrow size and neighbourhood atmosphere,
and enjoy the elegant relationship between
turquoise ceramics and havy stones and its
special soft light given by the stained glassed
windows.
Mosques are beautiful because their sharp
presence in the skyline gives an idea of how
the religious establishment have marked,
curved and settled its power in the cityscape,
since 15th century till now. Süleymaniye
Camii is a relevant case study for its ‘Kulliye’,
name of an urban system invented in early
OttomanEmpire.TheKulliyeisanorganized
religious public space usually composed by
mosque, hamam, hospital, medresa (Coranic
School), kitchen, cemetery, fountain, mental
institution. By contrast with the effervescent
vitality of the streets, the architecture of the
Kulliye is precisely geometrical, wide, clean,
and it suggests how space is used a tool to
settleapoliticalmodelofsociety.AsOttoman
establishment had to defy Byzantine times,
MimarSinan,chiefOttomanarchitectinthe
29
mid 15th century, during the reigns of the
sultanSüleymantheMagnifiscent,SelimIIand
MuradIII,decidedtobuilthuge-scalemosques
and imposed its dominant position in the
Kulliye organization.
Mosques are beautiful because you sometimes
wonder how it stands. Sultanahmet Camii,
named also Blue Mosque, is a complex system
of domes and semidomes, which turns the
structure invisible thanks to precise knowledge
of weight. The domes do not stand on walls
anymore but on huge pillars, organized on
a geometrical plan (square, hexagon, or
octagon), that the visitor sometimes barely
guesses. As a consequence, Sinan and his
fellow students could open the walls with
windows, and let the natural light come
inside. He invented also a brilliant acoustic
dispositive through which, in order to absorb
the sound, he integrated some vases in the
walls. Although mosques became castles, their
skin has never been much decorated, and their
dominant presence has always been balanced
with the social institutions of the Kulliye. What
OttomanestablishmentsettledinIstanbulis
an intelligent demonstration of power: they
settled mightiness without exhibiting wealth.
Mosques are beautiful because they prove that
one can recycle old architecture, instead of
demolishing it. Küçük Ayasofya Camii worth
the trip, not only because of its design inspired
the great Ayasofya built few years later, but
also for its very economical transformation
from being one of the oldest Byzantine church
into a humble mosque. You feel that the stones,
sleeping under the turquoise carpet, have been
used by the time.
Today,Istanbulobservesareturnofreligion
as the mosques are more and more included
in random city planning operations and
financedbythegovernment.Ifarchitectureis
usually a tool of reproduction of a dominant
socio-political system, let’s hope that some
alternative initiatives will live.
30
İSTANBUL
Kadıköy
A laid-back and artsy suburb on İstanbul’s Asian side, Kadıköy is far less touristy than Beyoğlu
or Sultanahmet. Jammed full of shops, restaurants, and bars, many İstanbulites will tell you that
Kadıköyistheirfavoritepartofthecity.TaketheferrytogetherefromtheEuropeanside;frequent
services depart from all the docks, notably Karaköy, Beşiktaş, and Eminönü. Browse the lively fish
market located at the waterfront, where stall owners shout out prices and enticements for their
waresandyoucanfindmanyalocalsearchingforthebestdealintown.Ofcourse,everythingis
fresherthanfresh.Ifarestaurantismoreupyouralley,Çiya Sofrası in Caferağa Mahallesi is a good
choice- they have great local dishes as well as more international fare. . Try Polka Cafe (Moda Cad.
Zuhal St. No:14/C)for an adorable little hole in the wall with kitsch and charm to spare.
InaccordancewiththemorechilledoutpaceoftheAsianside,youcanstartyourvisitwithawalk
along the Bosphorus in the cosmopolitan neighborhood of Moda.It’soneofthemostpleasant
walks in İstanbul- the area is upscale and pretty, with nice views across the water and numerous
parks and restaurants scattered along the promenade.
Kadıköy’s nightlife has a different feel to it than the wilder and more international crowd you’ll find
near İstiklal. Still, this side of the Bosphorus is vastly popular with locals, and you’ll find a number
of the city’s insider bars and clubs here, most with a much more “Turkish” feel to them than the
expat-populated haunts across the water. Start your night at Kadife Sokak in central Kadıköycolloquially known as “Bar Street,” Kadife is bustling with innumerable bars, most of which feature
outdoorseatingaswellasindoortables.Inparticular,lookforArka Oda, which is sure to come up
in just about any conversation with an İstanbul-dweller when you broach the topic of their favorite
bars. There are frequent concerts, so check out their schedule of upcoming shows at www.arkaoda.
com.
While in Kadıköy, plan a stop at Sahaf 26A (Caferağa Mah. Sakız St. No:3/1). Run by the same
collective which manages Cafe 26A in Beyoğlu, Sahaf is a secondhand bookstore/cafe where profit
is irrelevant next to community, cooperation, art, and the organic spread of knowledge.
(www.kolektif26a.org)
Do not miss our favorite Komşu Cafe (Uzun Hafız st. no 83A, Rasimpaşa)
a collective cafe/workshop without a boss,
workers and even more interestingly “no price” !
Kadıköy
31
İSTANBUL
Hush Hostel Lounge
Hush Hostel Moda
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Recently opened brand new smart hostel
in one of the best area of Kadıköy. You will
love Moda’s lifestyle, with its cute cafes,
home-made food places and view on the
Bosphorous. Also this hostel is just few
minutes walk away from the port, where you
can take the ferry to go to the
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European side of the city.
Ifyouhadenoughof
Sultanahmet, just enjoy the
view of the historical peninsula from the
rooftop terrace of the hostel and enjoy the
Rıhtım Cad.
İskele St. No. 46
+90 216 450 43 63
[email protected]
www.hushhostelistanbul.com
Convenience is far from
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Hush’s only benefit,
though. The building is
unique and attractive,
with a rooftop terrace
and a backyard garden where you can
smoke, read in the shade, or commune
with the resident pets (three turtles and a
number of cats). Although it’s close to all of
Kadıköy’s best nightlife, Hush itself is more
of a traveler’s meeting point than a loud and
crazy party spot- you’ll be able to get a great
night’s sleep here.
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The first hostel to break new ground on
the Asian side of the city, Hush Hostel
Lounge is definitely where budget travelers
want to be for a taste of the “real” İstanbul.
Hush is convenient to all kinds of public
transportation- the bus and dolmuş stop is
a two-minute walk down the street, as well
as the ferry dock, and it’s by far the most
suitable option if you have a flight in or out
fromSabihaGökçenairport.Eventhefamous
train station, Haydarpaşa, is only a fiveminute walk away- from here you can catch
any east-bound train out of İstanbul, to the
far reaches of Turkey and beyond.


Caferağa Mah.
Güneşli Bahçe Sok: 50/B
+90 216 330 11 22
+90 541 285 49 04
[email protected]
www.hushhostelistanbul.com
atmosphereoftheAsiansideofIstanbul.In
the evenings, the street is full of life, don’t
miss it! Ah, did we mention full Turkish
breakfast included?
32
İSTANBUL
Kadıköy
Polka Cafe
Try Polka Cafe for an adorable little hole in
thewallwithkitschandcharmtospare.In
this tiny and cute cafe you’ll find homemade
food, freshly baked cake, an exquisite variety
of teas and infusions and you can taste a
wonderfulIrishCoffeeduringcoldwinters.
Also the right place to bring your own books
and read in silence during the day or if you
are looking for a quiet spot far from the noise
of the city.
Kadıköy Sahne
Newly opened concerts place, it has already
become the major venue for this part of
thecity.Itgivesspacetoawidevarietyof
musical genres. Here you will find all the
leading alternative music bands of Turkey.
Also, emerging artists with original ideas
are given priority. So if you want to explore
contemporary Turkey’s music scene you are
definitely in the right place.
Entrance is usually not free and it is advisable
to buy tickets in advance, either from the
Sahne or from Biletix (www.biletix.com),
which is the circuit through which you can
Moda Cad. Zuhal St.
No:14/C
+90 216 405 27 48
[email protected]
facebook.com/pages/POLKA-cafe
This cafe is also a meeting point of folk
musicians: whenever you pass by, you’ll
probably find someone trying to learn Saz
(traditional Turkish instrument) or playing
violinorimprovisingsomefolkIrishmusic.
Bring your instrument and join the band!
Osmanağa Mh. Osmancık St.
No: 25/E
+90 216 550 04 92
[email protected]
www.kadikoysahne.com
buy the entrance for all the main events in
Istanbul.Beforeandaftertheconcert,usually
DJ sets take place: perfect opportunity to
mingle with the crowd.
Festivals
TURKEY
33
Music
Akbank Jazz Festival (Istanbul-Ankara-Eskişehir and other cities):Oneofthebiggestjazz
festivalsintheworldsponsoredbyamajorbankinTurkey.Usuallybetweenmid-Octoberand
mid-November. www.akbanksanat.com
Rock’n Coke (Istanbul): Major Popular rock/pop festival sponsored by Coca Cola , definitely
not alternative, but where you can see on the stage famous bands from all over the world.
TakingplaceinoneofIstanbul’ssuburbinSeptember,withcampingoption.
www.rockncoke.com
Efes One Love (Istanbul) : Choosen Europe’s best mid-size music festival. For more info:
www.efespilsenonelove.com
Rock-A ( İzmir ) This alternative/non-commercial music festival, taking place in July, is
definetely our favorite. During the festival you can attend many workshops and listen
performances from local bands infront of the beautiful Aegean Sea. Check the website for
details www.rock-a.org
Cinema
Altın Portakal (Antalya):TheGoldenOrange(sortofTurkishOscarAwards)isan
international film festival hosted in the city of Antalya, since 1964. Usually in the 2nd week of
October.Moreinformationcanbefoundinthewebsite:www.altinportakal.org.tr
İstanbul Film Festivali ( Istanbul ): Between March and May , a huge international movie
festival with several venues all around the city. Please note day time sessions are quite cheap
but you need to buy the tickets in advance. www.film.iksv.org
Film Ekimi (istanbul):OctoberFilmFestivalofIstanbul.Theprogrammecanbefoundat:
www.iksv.org
Traditional
Ahırkapı Hıdırellez Şenlikleri (Istanbul): Traditional welcome-spring festival mostly
celebrated by local Gipsys ( called Roman) , best to join the crowds down below Sultanahmet ,
near the sea side for music and fun. The Festival did not happen last year so check the website
to be sure that this year it will be back. www.hidrellez.org
Kırkpınar (Edirne): 650 years of traditional oily wrestling games. Every year at the end of june
near the city of Edirne. www.kirkpinar.org
Yeşil Yayla Festivali (Rize-Artvin): Usually taking place at the end of July in the beautiful
mountainsofeasternblack-searegion,atraditionalfestivalfulloffoodandmusic.Organized
by a non-profit organization called Gola. www.yaylafest.org
34
İSTANBUL
Islands
About twenty kilometers southeast of
İstanbul in the Sea of Marmara lie nine
islands, dubbed the Princes Islands due
to the Byzantine practice of sending
problematic princes there to be “taken care
of.” Today, the islands are a popular weekend
destination for Turks, and many international
travelers make the trip as well in order to see
the old churches and refined summer homes
there. Except for specialty service vehicles, no
cars are allowed on the islands, which makes
for a pleasant walking environment- have
a stroll or a picnic, or go for a ride in one of
the horse-drawn carriages. The four largest
islandsareservedbytheİDOferriesaround
tentimesperdayinthesummer;Büyükada
(BigIsland)isthemostpopulardestination.
Most of the ferries depart from the Kabataş
dock, down the hill from Taksim Square.
The journey takes around 50 to 90 minutes,
depending on which boat you take, and a fixed
ticket will set you back 4 TL. Make sure you get
to the ferry terminal early if you want a seat
with a good view!
Take a look at the ferry schedule, which can
be found athttp://www.ido.com.tr. Take note
that the summer and winter schedules are
different, as are the schedules for weekends
and holidays. The easiest docks to catch a ferry
fromareBostancıandKabataş;themajority
of the boats stop at Büyükada, with a smaller
percentage docking at the lesser islands (in
order, the stops are Kınalıada, Burgazada,
Heybeliada, and Büyükada). The first
departure from Kabataş on a typical morning is
at 6:50 and the last ferry back to İstanbul from
theBigIslandisat22:40(21:50onweekends
and holidays).
Islands
İSTANBUL
35
Marine House Boutique Hotel
LocatedrightinthecenteroftheBigIsland,
Marine House has a fantastic view of the
surrounding Sea of Marmara- sit out on the
terrace and take in the scenic beauty all
around you. Still, you won’t have far to walk
with your bags- it’s only about a hundred
meters from the pier, where you can catch
a ferry back to the center of İstanbul if you
fancy a trip to the city’s historical sites.
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Marine House is kid-friendly, with
a whole corner devoted to keeping
your young ones occupied while you
indulge in more grown-up activities (sipping
a beer while you watch the sunset over the
water, maybe?). They have films and music for
everyone’s tastes.
Recep Koç Cad. No. 8 Büyükada
+90 216 382 29 29
[email protected]
www.marinehousehotel.com
Tea and coffee are free, so spend a while
hanging out in front of the fireplace with a
drinkorsurfingtheInternet,whichisfree
here. There are no dorms, but the hotel has
thirty private rooms so there should be one
ready for you when you arrive. Still, call ahead
if possible, as Marine House is definitely a
favorite and the islands can be quite busy in
the summer high season!
Aya Nikola Boutique Hotel
Boasting some of the most romantic rooms
in Turkey, Aya Nikola is also among the best
located boutique hotels in the country.
The traditional carpets, wooden paneling,
and antique decorations recall a simpler
time, and the wide sun deck will
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give you somewhere to enjoy the
feeling of getting back to nature.
Backpackers take note: this is more
of an upscale establishment- come
here if you’re looking for something a cut
above the rest in the beautiful and out-ofthe-waysettingofthePrincesIslands,but
not if you’re looking for a cheap place to sling
your pack and get partying.
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Yılmaztürk Cad. No:15
Büyükada
+90 216 382 41 43
[email protected]
www.ayanikolaotel.com
Aya Nikola is open year-round. Each of the
privateroomsisfullyheatedinthewinter;
in summertime, enjoy the organic produce
grown on-site. Rooms are available with or
withoutafireplace;bookahead,particularly
for the honeymoon suite!
36
İSTANBUL
Contemporary Art
Istanbuliswellknownforitsincrediblehistoricalheritageandoldsites.Forthisreason,many
times it is forgotten to mention that the city is one of the best for young contemporary artists.
ThevibrantIstiklalStreethostsseveralContemporaryArtgalleries,amongwhichthenewlyopened Salt, a no-profit organization funded by Garanti Bank hosted inside an imponent
six-story 19th century building, which has already become one of the most important
culturalcomplexinIstanbul.OlderandmorehiddenisMısır Apartmant, which you will
findonyourrightsidewhilewalkingfromGalatatowardsTaksim.Itisindeedapparently
a normal apartments building, except for the fact that each one is home of a different Art
Gallery, among which CDA Projects, Galeri Nev, and Pi Artworks.Onthesamestreetyou
can visit Arter, (closer to Galata) and you will notice many other galleries hosted by the most
important Turkish banks.
Ifyoufeellikeyoudidn’thaveenough,thenwalkdownfromGalatasarayHighschooltowards
the Bosphorous along Boğazkesen Caddesi and simply keep your eyes open: you’ll find plenty
of small and medium size galleries and....look up: some of them are not on the ground floor.
Bythetimeyou’llgetattheendofthestreet,youwillbereallyclosetoIstanbulModern,
the largest contemporary art museum of İstanbul. You have no excuses, so just walk just
few hundreds meters on your left and pay a visit. Founded in 2004, the museum hosts
international and Turkish artists’ collections and temporary exhibitions. Advisable to check
the website before to see what’s on. There is also an art book library and a wonderful cafe’
facing the Bosphorous. Enjoy a tea there only if you are willing to break the backpacker’s
goldenruleandpay6TLforit.Itisexpensive,butquiteunique.
ArtWalk Istanbul
For all the artists and all the art lovers, guided
toursaroundtheIstanbul’sartgalleriesby
GriZine, a digital culture and art platform.
The meeting points are: Galatasaray
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Highschool for routes in Galta
andTophane;MilliReasüransfor
Nişantaşı and Akareteler Center
Point for Akaretler. Meeting Time: 14:00
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Yeni Çarşı Cad: No: 9/3,
Galatasaray, Beyoğlu
+90 546 06 15 10
[email protected]
www.artwalkistanbul.com
LGBTT
İSTANBUL
37
LGBTT İstanbul
Although Turkish society can be quite conservative in some areas, İstanbul has a range of great
options for gay and lesbian travelers. There are some excellent online resources for the LGBTT
community in Turkey, including www.lambdaistanbul.org (Turkish only) and www.turkeygay.net. We
suggest you to check them out before coming to see the last updates and events.
Frappe
Need a rest from the sightseeing before going back to the hostel? Relax on one of the tables
outsideFrappé.CuteandcolorfulsmallcafebarrightattheendofIstiklal,onZambak Sokak.
Karaoke time on Thursdays and Sundays!
Chianti
WhenattheentranceofthebuildingyouseesometypicalTurkishmendrinkingçayand
playing cards, don’t walk away. You are indeed in the right place. Just climb few stairs and at
the second floor you’ll find the Chianti Bar, with live music three days a week. Don’t miss the
Sanat Müsik night (art music) and join the crowd singing along with the performers (Balo St.
No: 31/2).
Mor Kedi
GayandLesbiancafeonImamAdnan St. No: 7 on the third floor open from 10 am to
midnight. Cozy atmosphere in a slight retro style.
Tek Yön (One Way)
Oneofİstanbul’slongest-runningandmostpopulargaydestinations,TekYönhasawide
customer base. The roomy interior allows for more comfortable dancing space, where you can
find great crowds (particularly on the weekends) and listen to a selection of mainly Turkish
music. Among Tek Yön’s most unique features is their no-women-allowed policy. Compared to
straight clubs the prices may seem a little expensive, but if you’re willing to splash out a bit for
a fantastic and exclusive experience, this is where you want to be. Check it out for yourself at
Sıraselviler CaddesiNo:63/1inBeyoğlu.Onlyforgaymen.
38
Tours
İSTANBUL
A professional guide can take straight you to İstanbul’s best-kept secrets. Many
companies operating out of the city also run tours to the rest of Turkey, so if you want
an insider view of the best the country has to offer, consider booking with one of them.
Ifyouarestillonthealternativeside,checkwww.istanbulcycles.weebly.com, for a
different way to explore the city on two wheels.
Before Travel Turkey
Family-runned business offering a wide
variety of tours, appropriate for “professional”
travelers who want to find company for
their journey and at the same time avoid the
classic touristic tours. The two brothers of
Before Travel Turkey will guide you through
the beauties of this country, share all the
stories you need to hear about the places you
are visiting and helping you to get the
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best prices all around the country.
D
You can ask for a customized tour or
jointhepre-plannedones.InIstanbul
theyofferOldCityTours,BosphorousTours,
visitstoIstanbul’spalacesandislands
during different time of the day.
InTurkey,youcanrelyonthem
for trips to Troy, Capadocia,
Gallipoli, Ephesus,
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10%
Sultan Ahmet Mah. Akbıyık Cad.
No: 96/A Sultanahmet
+90 212 638 08 06
[email protected]
www.beforetravelturkey.com
Pamukkale and other special tours. Just
walk in their office or call them if you don’t
find what you need on the website. Before
Travel’s brothers always have something new
to propose!
They also offer car rental service and
Capadociaballoonstrips.Incaseyouwould
like to have a customized tour, just go to their
website and tick the places you want to visit,
choose your starting point, the
kind of accommodation and
transportation you want
and add any other special
requests you might have.
Great reviews on Trip
Advisor! Check them out!
Tours
Bonita Tour
İSTANBUL
39
Akbıyık Cad. No:13, Sultanahmet
+90 212 638 52 76
[email protected]
www.tourbonita.com
Bonita offers some of the most well-planned
and professionally executed tours on the
market in Turkey. They’re particularly
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good at taking your interests and
translating them into an excursion that
you’re guaranteed to love, and have
a number of pre-set packages which cater to
certain niches. For example, archaeological
tours will lay bare for you the past of this
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fascinating country, while those with an
interest in religious history will love the Seven
Churches tour.
Magnaura Tours
Magnaura Tours has two offices in İstanbul, one in
each of the city’s major tourist areas- Beyoğlu and
Sultanahmet, so you can easily drop by and
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have a chat with one of the friendly and
professional operators.
Cankurtaran mah. Kutlugun st.
No:35 Sultanahmet
+90 212 258 28 55
www.magnauratours.com
[email protected]
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Tamzara Tur
Inoperationsince1989,Tamzarahasplenty
of experience bringing travelers to the
forgotten places of Turkey- they specialize in
getting you off the well-beaten tourist track
and instead on the path to adventure and
less-known spots of natural beauty.
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Yeniçarşı Cad. Kalkan Han
No. 36/4
+90 212 251 98 64
[email protected]
www.tamzaratur.com
40
İSTANBUL
Around
The popular Bosphorus cruises departing
from the Eminönü dock are an ideal way to
see İstanbul from a unique vantage point.
Usually lasting about an hour and a half,
the cruises will take you north up the strait
and give you a terrific view of scores of the
city’s most famous sights, including Topkapı
Palace, the Maiden’s Tower, and Beylerbeyi
Palace.
Çengelköy (meaning “hook village”) is a
pretty little neighborhood in the Asian
district of Üsküdar. Well-known among the
locals for its charming coastline, Çengelköy
boasts an array of waterside cafes and
restaurants, as well as alluring little teahouses
where you can wile away a long afternoon of
conversation. You can get here by taking the
ferry from Eminönü or Beşiktaş.
Located on the European side of the strait,
Arnavutköy (meaning “Albanian village”)
is a today a classic neighborhood in the
moderndistrictofBeşiktaş.Originallya
Greek settlement, Arnavutköy was actually
predominantly populated by Jewish settlers
throughout most of its history. Check out
the wooden mansions which date from the
Ottomanperiod,aswellasthenumerousfish
restaurants along the coast.
Another worthwhile daytrip takes you to
Polonezköy, founded by Polish settlers in the
mid-nineteenth century. Currently there are
around a thousand permanent residents, of
which roughly forty speak Polish as their first
language.InvestigatethePolishhistoryall
around the village, including churches and an
interestingcemetery.Oneofthebeststops
for those intrigued by the unique roots of the
place is the Memorial House of Zofia Rizi.
Ifyou’rekeentogetatanorgoforaswim
without busing it all the way down to the
Mediterranean coast, have no fear: there are
some great beaches right near İstanbul. Two
of the best are Şile and Kilyos, both on the
Black Sea coast and accessible by bus or ferry
from the city center. They’re liable to be a bit
crowded in the summer, but the beaches are
well-maintained and the water is perfect for a
refreshing dip.
Kıyıköy
KIRKLARELİ
41
Up for a two-three days out of the noisy crowd of
Istanbul?Fromİstanbul’sEsenlerOtogarhopona
bus to Saray or Vize and then from there to Kıyıköy,
a small fishing village on the coast of Black sea
around160KmnorthfromIstanbul,embracedby
two rivers and facing the sea. Here you can enjoy the
typical old wooden houses and nice small beaches,
relaxing and quiet during low season, extremely
crowded in July and August and spring bank
holidays (so plan your trip according to this and
avoid it during high season). There are many small
home pensions that you will find once you are there. Enjoy your two days outside the big city
sunbathing and eating good fish. A good place to have a good fish dinner? Walk you way to
Erkin’in yeri, near the harbor, a hut hosting a delicious fish restaurant. A hint? Try the shrimps
on butter casserole.
Necip Usta
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Ayanikola Pansiyon
Looking for a place to stay overnight in
this tiny village? Check out Ayanikola
Pansiyon, near the Aya Nikola Manastırı,
which offers camping place and
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colorful bungalows. There is also
a restaurant, with quite reasonable
prices. After your meal, chill out in
their big garden near the river and enjoy the
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Cute restaurant and pension offering good
mezeandfish.Openforbreakfast,lunchand
dinner. The owners of the place are really
friendly: don’t be intimidated by the fact that
they don’t speak English and improvise
some Turkish! Enjoyed the dinner? Try the
breakfast!
Kümürluk Mevkii, Mesut St.
Kıyıköy, Kırklareli
+90 288 388 60 68
+90 535 689 88 08
facebook.com
groups/40328782546/
İnfront of the Aya Nikola Manastırı,
Kıyıköy, Kırklareli
+90 542 407 09 25
www.ayanikolapansiyon.com
peacefulness. Nice friendly owners who don’t
use email so you’ll have to ring them at their
mobile phone in case you need to contact
them.
42
İznik
Iznikisanhistoricaltown,around77
kilometres south from Bursa, famous for its
history and its traditional tiles production.
The town lays by the İznik lake, surrounded
by fertile nature and hills, so it is a good
trip for both nature and cultural heritage
lovers. The history of İznik goes back to the
Hellenic years. The old name of the town is
Nicaea, well known for the Frist and Second
Councils of Nicaea in the early years of the
Christian Church and for being the capital of
the omonimous empire and later the capital
of Selçuk Empire. Nicea was also the interim
capital of the Byzantine Empire, of which it
still keep interesting ruins.
There is also an interesting Roman Theatre
under renovation and an old hamam which
is being renovated (with not too much touch)
andwillbeopenedasamuseum.Itisalso
worth to visit the city museum, where some
interesting pieces of history are kept. We also
suggest to just wonder around and have a
look at all the small mosques and medresses
around.
Ifyouarevisitingonsummer,alsoenjoythe
lake side and give it a swim!
İznik is reachable by bus from Bursa and
Yalova.IfyouarecomingfromIstanbul,
you can get to Yalova with the direct Deniz
OtobusfromIDO company.
İznik
43
İznik Tiles
İznik pottery, named after the town in western Anatolia where it was made, is a decorated ceramic that
was produced from the last quarter of the 15th century until the end of the 17th century. The town of İznik
was an established centre for the production of simple earthenware pottery with an underglaze decoration
when in the last quarter of the 15th century, craftsmen in the town began to manufacture high quality
pottery with a fritware body painted with cobalt blue under a colourless lead glaze. The meticulous
designscombinedtraditionalOttoman arabesque patternswithChineseelements.
The town became a major center with the creation of a local faïence pottery-making industry during the
Ottomanperiodinthe17thcentury(knownasthe İznikÇini, Çin meaning China).Izniktileswereused
todecoratemanyofthemosquesin Istanbul designedby MimarSinan.However,thisindustrydeclined
in the 18th century and İznik became a mainly agricultural minor town in the area when a major railway
bypassed it in the 19th century. Currently the style of pottery referred to as the İznik Çini is to some extent
produced locally, but mainly inKütahya, where the quality – which was in decline – has been restored to its
former glory.
Eşref Eroğlu Atölyesi
Wounderful place where to admire the amazing
Izniktileart,called“Çini”inTurkish.Thefounderof
this atelier, Eşref, was the one who took back the
famous tradition of original porcellaine and tiles to
the town, thanks to the lessons of Faik Kırımlı, the
lastmasterofIzniktiles.
This is were the very first workshop
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after the disapperence around 300
years ago of the tradition took
place in 1985, and it is now an
important center of traning, carring
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Eşrefzade mh.
Eşref Eroğlu st. No:26
+90 224 757 24 46
[email protected]
www.iznikcini.com.tr
around 200 workshops a year. As for now, here the
tiles are produced the traditional style in the only
wood-klin of its kind in the whole Turkey. Check out
their workshops on www.iznikcini.com.tr .
Çamlık Motel Restaurant
A good standard Hotel, but dipped in a pretty
pleasant setting: pine trees around, garden facing
the lakeside with wonderful view at sunset. The
beach is only 100m away. The hotel also hosts a
good restaurant serving traditional food
from the area. The must-try is the
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catfish from the lake, bettwer when
enjoyed with some Rakı. 24 en-suite
rooms ( very clean bathrooms, with
hot water and hairdryer), with AC,
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Sahil Yolu (Coastal Road) – İznik
+90 224 757 13 62
[email protected]
www.iznik-camlikmotel.com
television and breakfast included. The hotel also
owns a decent sized olive garden, from which every
November olive oil is produced.
44
Çanakkale / Troy
Originallysettledaround3000BC,Çanakkale
is the seat of millennia of human history.
Although numerous ancient civilizations
have occupied the region through the years,
the name most commonly associated with
its former inhabitants is Hellespont. Noting
the strategic location of the city on a map,
it should come as no surprise that this
areahasbeenheavilycontested;itstands
just on the seafront, guarding the narrow
passage toward the Sea of Marmara and on
to İstanbul.
Many visitors arrive in Çanakkale for a sole
purpose: to tread in the footsteps of mythical
heroes like Achilles and Hector, the warriors
ofHomer’sIliad.Çanakkaleistheclosest
modern city to the position of legendary
Troy, and you can still make the 30-kilometer
trip south to see the ruins left behind by nine
destructions and reconstructions. Poorlyexecuted archaeological digs in the late 19th
century caused some damage to the remains,
but there’s still a ton left behind to fascinate
the visitor, including a section of a wall from
TroyIV,thestageinwhichhistorianssuppose
the Trojan War may have taken place.
Çanakkale itself has taken advantage of the
booming Trojan War tourism by erecting a
massive wooden horse by the harbor. Feel
free to climb up the ladders underneath and
pretend you’re about to sack a city!
As you would expect from such a historical
place, there are several museums for those
interested in getting a deeper understanding
of Çanakkale’s previous incarnations. The
Archaeological Museum on İzmir Caddesi
isofparticularnote;studytheprehistoric
pottery and relics, nearly all of which were
discovered in the surrounding countryside.
For a hearty meal to top off your exploring,
try the elegant seafront Maydos Restaurant
(YalıCad.No:12).Ifyouarelookingfora
quiet place to have a rest, stop by Yalı Han
(Yalı Cad, No:59) and enjoy a coffee in a cute
relaxing atmosphere.
Çanakkale is well-connected with the rest of
Turkey;thereareflightsfromİstanbulthree
times a week and buses are much more
frequent, most of them stopping to let off
passengers at the central ferry harbor.
Gallipoli
Brits, Aussies, and Kiwis will already be
familiar with the tragic history of Gallipoli.
DuringWorldWarI,Alliedforcesattacked
this strategic location in the Battle of the
Dardanelles, so named because it took place
on the northern bank of the Dardanelles
Strait. The intention was to knock the Turkish
forces out of the war, but what resulted was
a staggering loss of life on both sides: a third
of the casualties were Turkish, the rest Allied
troops, with the total death toll exceeding
130,000.
The battle became one of the most important
in Turkish history, as well as for Australians
and New Zealanders, who celebrate ANZAC
Day on April 25th to memorialize the 1915
landings.Indeed,manyAntipodeansmakea
point of visiting the battlefields of Gallipoli
on this date in order to take part in the rituals
ÇANAKKALE
45
of remembrance at Anzac Cove, flanked by
hundreds of their countrymen.
The area is dotted with memorials erected
in honor of the soldiers on both sides of the
battle. There are separate cemeteries and
memorials for British and Australian troops,
French troops, New Zealand troops, and of
course the Turkish men who lost their lives
at Gallipoli. For a moving reflection on the
place’s bloody history, walk from Anzac
Cove to the Arıburnu Coastal Memorial,
inscribed with Atatürk’s declaration that the
Allied soldiers who died on Turkish soil are
considered native sons as well.
To visit the battlefields, take the ferry from
Çanakkale across to Eceabat. From there, you
can ask for current dolmuş routes or tour the
area on foot.
Çanakkale
46

ANZAC House
A founding member of the Turkish Youth
HostelOrganization,ANZACHouseoperates
with over 20 years of experience in the
hostelling business. The accommodation is
particularly geared toward budget travelers
who come to Çanakkale with the aim of
taking in the legacy of the
historic battles fought in
the surrounding land, and
as such, they specialize
in providing affordable,
simple rooms as well as a
wealth of information.
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Cumhuriyet Meydanı No: 61
+90 286 213 59 69
[email protected]
www.anzachouse.com
There are rooms for every style of shoestring
traveler here- dorms, singles, or doubles. You
can find all the facilities you’ll need to make
your stay comfortable and straightforward,
includingInternet,heating,andinternational
phone services.
Hassle Free Travel Agency
InassociationwithANZACHostel,HassleFree
operates out of the same building, which
really couldn’t get any more central- it’s
just by the harbor in downtown Çanakkale,
close to everything. The great majority of
tours offered by Hassle Free are focused on
GallipoliandtheWorldWarIbattlefields,
although they also run several tours to Troy.
Many travelers stop by in person and begin
their tour right from the
city, but there is also the
option to depart from
İstanbul (the İstanbul
office is located
Nakilbent Caddesi in
Sultanahmet).
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Cumhuriyet Meydanı No: 61
+90 286 213 59 69
[email protected]
www.anzachouse.com
Ifyou’reinterestedinWorldWarI,you
shouldn’tmissoutonatripwithHassleFree;
they’ll take you on a unique excursion during
which you’ll approach the bay across the
strait north of Çanakkale just as the Allied
troops did. Making the same landing will be
moving enough for anyone with an interest
in the history of the war, but you’ll be extra
grateful for the presence of a professional
guide who can explain, with reference to the
geography, exactly what happened and why.
Çanakkale
Yellow Rose Pension

Yellow Rose Pension offers dorms, single or
double room option and is one of the better
budgetaccommodationsinthearea.Ithas
also an ideal location, just a minute or two
from the ferry port where the buses from
Istanbuldropyouoff.
Kemalpaşa Mh.
Aslan Abla St. N: 5
+90 286 217 33 43
yellowrosepensıon@hotmail com
www.yellowrose.4mg.com
This pension is simple and quite anonymous.
However, it has a spacious garden with tennis
table, luggage deposit and laundry service.
The area is actually interesting to visit with
a guide, since it is the best way to get
to know the history of the battles.
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Incaseyoufeellikeinvestingsome
money in it, consider joining one
of the organized daily tours offered
by Yellow Rose to Gallipoli and Troy,
with visits to all the main archaeological sites
and the memorial museums in company of
professional English-speaking guides. Every
night, after the visit to Gallipoli, screening of
Gallipoli documentary and Gallipoli movie
with Mel Gibson in his young days.
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The pension is usually closed in low
season and probably for this reason it has
no heating system. Bring with you some
warm clothes, as it could get quite chilly in
the spring nights.
48
Assos
ÇANAKKALE
Assos / Behramkale
Assos faces the Greek island of Lesvos and lies roughly 20 kilometers off the Çanakkale-İzmir
highway. The town is actually in two parts, and you may hear it referred to as either Assos or
Behramkale, both of which appear on road signs. The lower coastal section, which tends to be
exceedingly expensive, is connected with the older village at the top of the hill by a steep and
narrow road.
The upper village is characterized
by cobbled alleyways and old stone
buildings, lending it an antique charm.
For a taste of the town’s ancient history,
walk to the top of the hill above the old
village and take a look at the Temple to
Athena, built in the sixth century BC.
Assos Kadırga Hotel
CO
IS U
Two kilometers east of
Behramkale, in the quieter
and more affordable town of
Kadırga Koyu, you’ll find the
AssosKadırgaHotel.It’sperfectfortravelers
looking for a cheaper alternative to the
expensive lodgings in Assos, and provides
excellent access to some fantastic beaches.
The water here is quite cold and crystal clear,
ideal for a dip after sunbathing. Look out for
the huge tuna fish jumping out in the sea!
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You can get some fantastic seafood at the
Assos Kadırga, freshly caught. Most dishes
Assos Kadırga Koyu
+90 286 721 70 41
[email protected]
www.kadirgamotel.com
are accompanied by organic vegetables
grown in the village.
While you’re in the area, head 9 kilometers
from the main road to Babakale, the
westernmost point in mainland Asia.
Affordable accommodation is limited, but
it’s a great place to grab a bite to eat at one
of the many spectacular seafood cafes along
the water.
Assos
ÇANAKKALE
49
Son Gemi Camping
A hidden gem near Assos, Son Gemi is an
outdoorsy, welcoming place to kick off
your shoes and soak in the sunshine. They’ll
provide you with a place to pitch your tent
and offer you some tasty food from the
offbeat cafe, where you can put your feet
up and listen to some alternative tunes. The
water’s perfect, bluer than blue and
always inviting for a swim or a
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fishingtrip;themanagersofSon
Gemi can also help you to arrange
diving trips if you want to take a
lookfromunderthewaves!Orhead
straight to the Rakı Table with the aid of
yourGPS;it’slocatedat39º28’00”26º12’29”.
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Unfortunately, there’s no public transport
to Sokakağzı, but you can take the dolmuş
runningtwiceadayfromAyvalıktoGülpınar;
get out at the turn for Koyunevi, and take
advantage of the free ride offered from
there by Son Gemi (call ahead for this
service). Take note that the dolmuşes run
less frequently during the winter months.
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Sokakağzı - Ayvacık
+90 286 723 40 09
[email protected]
www.songemicamping.com
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ÇANAKKALE
Bozcaada
OneofTurkey’stwoAegeanislands,
Bozcaada is a favorite holiday destination for
İstanbullus looking to take a break from the
stress of the megalopolis. As a result, pretty
little hotels and boutiques are springing up
like wildflowers across the island, lending
a fresh charm to the antique houses and
cobblestone streets.
expect, numerous winehouses and bars are
scatteredacrosstheisland;tryCorvus, Talay,
or Çamlıbağ; the latter will give you a tractor
vineyard tour with the purchase of a large
bottleofwine.Ifyouarelookingforagood
restaurant and Turkish meze we suggest to
stop by Şişman Cafe & Restaurant (Sakarya
St. No:4).
The forty square kilometer island (formerly
known as Tenedos, a name you still may
hear) is short on historical sights, apart from
the impressive and well-preserved castle
which was used by Venetians and Byzantines,
among others. No worries, though- that just
means that you’ll have more time to stroll
around the town’s quaint alleys or sunbathe
on the beach. The water is cold by Aegean
standards, perfect for a cooling swim
which will refresh you doubly after a
morning of walking around in the sun.
The seafood restaurants by the harbor
areexcellentbutquiteexpensive;for
more modestly-priced meals, search
the back streets or hop a dolmuş 20
minutes south to Ayazma Beach.
To reach Bozcaada, you’ll need
to take the car-accessible ferry
from Geyikli Yükyeri Port, a little
southofÇanakkale.One-way
tickets aren’t sold, but the
return tickets are flexible, and
you aren’t required to settle
on a date for your voyage
back to Çanakkale.
You can find the
ferry schedule
at;
Bozcaada is justly famous for its wines, which
are locally produced and widely available.
The tradition of winemaking has been
inplaceforthousandsofyears;
ancient coins from the area, in
fact, depicted bunches of
grapes! As you might
Bozcaada
ÇANAKKALE
51
Bozcaada Camping
Bozcaada Camping is located five kilometers
south of the harbor, reachable by the
dolmuşes making the trip every twenty
minutes. Just a few hundred meters from the
island’s sandy southern beaches, it’s a
sanctuary of peace and relaxation.
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You can pitch your own tent or
hire one if you’ve come without.
Alternately, you can park
your RV (multiway plugs are
available) or opt for a bungalow.
Sulubahçe, Eski Kule Mevkii
+90 286 697 04 42
+90 535 43715 16
[email protected]
www.campingbozcaada.com
Breakfast, snacks, and all
sorts of drinks- including
alcohol- are available for
purchase.
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Mavi Boutique Otel
Tucked away down a pretty little street,
MaviBoutiqueOtelisapicturesqueand
welcoming little place. They have a total of
fifteen beds in seven rooms- a single, two
triples, and four doubles. Each room
is bright and clean, with the allISCOU
important air conditioning and
24-hour hot water. When you’re
finished wandering the town,
Alaybey Mahallesi
Murat Bey St. No: 19
+90 286 697 02 19
+90 507 741 05 76
[email protected]
www.mavibutikotel.com
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you can head to the garden area, a beautiful
little spot with climbing vines and flowers,
perfect for relaxing with a good book.
Nar Adaevi
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Nar Adaevi is in the center of Bozcaada,
hosted by an amazing Greek house located
in one of the most beautiful and historical
street of Republic Avenue also know as the
Greek district. The house is one of the most
beautiful example of architecture of
the island with the most beautiful
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and popular restaurants and Art and
Painting exhibitions surrounding it.
Cumhuriyet Mah.
İstiklal St. No: 13
+90 286 697 00 08
[email protected]
www.narbozcaada.com
Don’t oversleep or you’ll risk skipping
the delicious breakfasts with fresh crops
of their Vineyard.
52
ÇANAKKALE
Gökçeada
Turkey’slargestisland,stunningGökçeada
is a picturesque Aegean heaven close to
Çanakkale.ItwasoriginallycalledImbrosin
its former incarnation as an Athenian colony,
and although the island was ceded to Turkey
in 1923 as part of the Treaty of Lausanne,
some ethnic Greeks remain in their ancestral
homes and the local culture is tinged with
the customs of their neighbors to the west.
Gökçeadaisaparadisefordivers,with
numerous scuba shops and companies
offering diving lessons as well as equipment.
Inaddition,theislandishometothe
country’s first underwater park. Beaches,
too,areabundant;trythelongestand
sandiest, Pınarbaşı Beach, or Aydıncık
Beach for bigger waves and better surfing.
After a long day of hitting the beaches, stop
by Yukarı Kaleköy for a coffee at a breezy
coffeehouse- try Mustafa’nın Kayfesi (Yukarı
Kaleköy Kilise Meydanı).
Camping is possible in many places on
Gökçeada-justusecommonsense!However,
if you’re looking for a comfortable bed,
Kalimerhaba Pension (Kaleköy Barbaros
Cad. No:258) is a good bet. Breakfast is
included at this clean and tasteful budget
guesthouse, and better yet, you’ll get a 10%
discount with Hike East. For a more upscale
option, you can check out Zeytindalı Hotel
(Zeytinli Village No:168), which offers a touch
of luxury as well as nice views.
As a popular tourist destination, it’s relatively
easytoreachGökçeada.Ifyou’reinahurry,
you can catch a plane from İstanbul to
the centrally located airport on the island.
Otherwise,ferriesfromÇanakkaleor
Kabatepe will be a cheaper way to travel
to and from the mainland. Gestaş (www.
gestasdenizulasim.com.tr) tends to be the
preferred ferry line. You will land roughly four
kilometersfromtheisland’scapitalofMerkez;
if you don’t have your own transportation,
minibuses are available to take you the rest
of the way.
Gökçeada
ÇANAKKALE
53
Yakamoz Motel & Restaurant
Yakamoz boasts some of the best views in
allofGökçeada.Theterracerestaurantin
particular is the ideal place to watch the sun
sinking after a busy day of splashing in the
waves or tanning on a sandy beach.
The inspired dishes offered at the attached
restaurant commonly feature olive oil or
seafood, both locally harvested and lovingly
prepared. You’d be hard-pressed to find
fresher ingredients or a better view to enjoy
while taste-testing delicious Turkish mezes!
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The motel features 20 rooms with a total
50-personcapacity;choosefromadouble,
a triple, or a quadruple room, each with
hair dryers, air conditioning, and ensuite
bathrooms. Service with a smile is an
important tenet of Yakamoz’s success, and
all of the employees will be ready to help
you with anything that might make your
stayonGökçeadamorepleasant,especially
recommendations for where to go and what
to see while you’re in town.
Yukarı Kaleköy - Gökçeada
+90 286 887 20 57
[email protected]
www.gokceadayakamoz.com
on accommodation
Surf Eğitim Merkezi
The accommodation is rustic and natural,
with a fresh, pure charm. The stone
architecture and the sea views from
each room will endear you to the place
immediately, and the organic food served up
at the adjoining restaurant will further boost
your impression. Happy surfing!
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Newbies to surfing should consider taking
a lesson, which are offered in 1, 6, and 10
hour increments. But classes aren’t only for
beginners, and more experienced surfers may
also benefit from advanced lessons with Surf
EğitimMerkezi’sprofessionalinstructors.If
you’d rather go it alone, you can still rent surf
equipment from the well-supplied shop.
Çınarlı Mah. Aydıncık Mevkii,
Gökçeada
+90 286 898 10 22
[email protected]
www.surfgokceada.com
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The Surf Eğitim Merkezi (roughly translated
as Surf Education Center) is a terrific
one-stop-shop. They offer not only
windsurfing and kitesurfing services but also
accommodation (and, impressively, were
the first company in Turkey to provide the
combination), so you barely have to step out
of your room to start organizing your day
around some wave-filled adventures.
during low season &
on weekly stays during high season
54
BALIKESİR
Ayvalık
The little town of Ayvalık, facing the
Greek Aegean island of Lesvos, is a sleepy
seaside rest stop perfect for an afternoon
tour on foot or simply wiling away several
hours indulging in some thankfully toutfreeshopping.It’sapicturesquelocation,
surrounded by rolling hills with pine and
olive tree groves- indeed, one of Ayvalık’s
biggest claims to fame is rooted in its
production of high-quality olive oil. Speaking
of local foods, don’t leave without trying an
Ayvalık tostu, a pressed sandwich with sucuk,
cheese, sausage, and condiments.
InhabitedbyGreeksuntil1922,Ayvalık
became one of the many towns to participate
in the vast population exchange between
Greece and Turkey. Keep a sharp eye out and
you can spot vestiges of its lost heritage in
some of the crumbling buildings. Hike to
the Devil’s Banquet, an outcropping with
spectacular views of the town at sunset.
Visit Taksiyarhis Church, built in 1873, for
a view of the most important feature of the
town’s religious landscape. The marble inside
makes a stunning backdrop for the reliefs
depictingthelifeofJesus.Ifyouhavetime
to spare, consider giving the Moonlight
Monastery and Saint Nicola Church a look
as well.
Ayvalık is also known for its world-class music
academy for violinists and cellists, as well
asfortheHarvard-affiliatedKoçUniversity
summer program which brings students here
tostudytheOttomanlanguage.
Ayvalık
55
BALIKESİR
Taksiyarhis Pension
İsmetpaşa Mah.
Maraşal Çakmak Caddesi
No. 71
+90 266 312 14 94
[email protected]
www.taksiyarhispension.com
There’s a common kitchen
available for guest use if
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you prefer to cook your
own food, although the
owners can prepare a
delicious breakfast for you for ten Turkish
lira if you prefer. Maybe you’d like to sample
some of the dishes at the local restaurants
in Ayvalık- no problem, because Taksiyarhis
is centrally located, only 500 meters from
the main square, and the proprietors will be
only too happy to recommend their favorite
eateries. The central location also makes
it easy to reach the beaches nearby, and
catching a dolmuş to Sarimsakli or some
of the closer shores is a straightforward
endeavor.
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Taksiyarhis is undoubtedly one of the most
beautiful pensions you’re likely to come
across.Onenteringthis140-yearoldstone
and wooden building, you’ll feel as though
you’ve stepped into a special kind of paradise
on earth- the name Taksiyarhis, which comes
from a name given to archangels, is definitely
appropriate here. The three terraces and all of
the common spaces are tastefully decorated
withbrightthrowsandcomfypillows;
stained-glass windows and whimsical wall
decorations complete the picture.
Choose from the dorm room or a range of
privates;allhavesharedbathroomsdueto
the age of the building, but they’re spotless
and you’ll only have to share with one or two
other rooms. No matter where you choose
to sleep, you’re guaranteed to have air
conditioning.
56
GREEK ISLAND
Lesvos/Mytilini
Lesvos / Mytilini
Birthday place of many poets and writers of the Ancient Greece, Lesvos (or Mytilini), the third
biggestGreekisland,stillmaintainitsculturalcharmandthebeautyofitsfertileland.Olive
trees and pine forests cover most of the hills and crystal clear sea kisses the shore.
Lesvos, which history goes back to the third millennium B.C. has a population of around 80.000
thousands people and is built on the ruins of its ancient times. The island is very famous for its
Ouzo(GreekliquorsimilartotheTurkishRakı),itsceramicandwoodhandcrafts.
Museums and Parks
Don’t miss the Barbayanni,oneofthefamousfactoryofOuzoMuseum,inPlomari.Also
interesting is the Museum of olive oil in Gera Gulf, where you can see the way oil has been
produced along the history. Absolutely a must, for its uniqueness in Europe, is the Petrified
Forest: a spectacular natural phenomenon due to volcanic activity. The forest covers 15.000
hectares and is estimated to be 20.000.000 years old.
Around the island
Mytilene is the capital of the island, a moderately lively town with almost nothing left of the
old times, but still worth to visit. Molivos, north of the island, is the most interesting town in
terms of cultural attractions, with its traditional architecture and the Gattilusi Castle. To put up
your tent close to the town, head to Molivos Camping.Ifwhatyouarelookingforissomerest
on the beach, head to Skala Eressos, a small town hosting summer resorts but also isolated
beaches.
For the ones who were guided by the interest for the legendary school of Sappho, Eressos, her
birthplace, is the right place to go. Here, lesbians from all around the world are coming every
summer to enjoy the Greek sun.
To discover more about the ancient past of the island you can visit the Archeological Musem
of Mytilene. Towards the South, you may also admire interesting ruins in Epano Skala and
Agios Therapon.
Renting a car is a cheap and practical choice to travel around the island and to move freely
around. For car rental, hotel booking and tickets to other Greek island and Athens, call up
Fotis Tour or pass by their offices just in front of the harbor. Ask for Fatih, very helpful and
multilingual: speaks English, Greek and Turkish. Fatih: +30 69 40 77 5353
Lesvos/Mytilini
GREEK ISLAND
57
The island is served by an airport with international routes, but if you are coming from Turkey
and want to save some money you’d better go by the sea. Lesvos is easily reachable through a
ferry from Ayvalık. Ferries are frequent during the high season, while in low season they are just
3 or 4 days per week.
IfyouaretravelingfromTurkeytoLesvoscontactJaleTour,justinfrontofAyvalıkport:
ferryboats service to the Greek island for 30 Euro round trip (1 and half hour each way). For
Turkish citizens, you can contact Jale Tours for easy visa.
Jale Ferryboats
Ayvalık Port
+90 266 331 31 70
[email protected]
www.jaletur.com
Kouitou Hotel
Kouitou (Kuytu in Turkish “hidden” or “canny”,
used also in Greek language only in this
island) is a unique art hotel located on the
beautiful island of Lesvos, just a short walk to
the beautiful beaches of Skala Eressos. This
place is definitely our favorite in the island.
The Guesthouse is structured on two floors
facing a cute internal courtyard. Here you
can find also a nice Cafe with honest prices
and some good home-baked cakes. Each
and every of the 15 room is designed and
decorated with a different theme by Alex,
international graffiti and owner of the place
to together with Vaso. Despite
the very affordable rates, the
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rooms are almost luxurious
for backpackers standards:
fridge, fan and en-suite
bathroom.
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Skala Eresos
+30 225 305 33 11
[email protected]
www.kouitouhotel.com
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Alibey Island
OtherwiseknownasCunda,AlibeyIsland
isconnectedtoLaleIslandandAyvalıkby
a road bridge. Accordingly, dolmuşes and
buses are available from the mainland if you
don’t have your own transportation.
OnthenorthedgeofCunda,lookoutover
Pordoselene Bay, which enjoyed a brief
interval of fame as the home of a dolphin
who saved a drowning boy. Another local
unmissable is the breathtaking Patriça Bay,
where you’ll find abandoned Greek villages
ringed with wildflowers and herbs.
Shoppers should check out the weekly
market (the köy pazarı) held on Thursdayskeep your eyes open for good deals on
BALIKESİR
knockoff brand name goods and heaping
piles of locally-grown food for dirt-cheap
prices.
Definitely plan an afternoon around the
iconic Taş Kahve (Sahil Boyu No:20), the
island’s most famous coffeehouse by a long
shot. The place has been around for decades
and has become something of a local
landmark.
Fancysomewineinstead?OptforVino
Şarap Evi (Cumhuriyet Cad. No:8), where
you can enjoy amazing wine and meze in a
relaxed, beautiful atmosphere.
Aşiyan Pansiyon
The clean and affordable Aşiyan Pension is
a great choice if you’re looking for a fully
equipped yet no-frills place to stay, hasslefree. There’s a washing machine, fridge, iron,
and stove for general use by guests, and the
rooms are much better equipped than the
majority of pensions- you’ll find a hairdryer,
a satellite TV, A/C, a mini-fridge, and an
ensuite bathroom. And if you’re eager to
keep in touch or check the news,
never fear. There’s a strong
wireless signal so you can
usetheInternetinyourown
room as well as in any of the
common areas.
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Ali Çetinkaya Meydanı
No: 10
+90 266 327 19 25
[email protected]
www.cundaasiyan.com
The manager can give you tips and directions
for anything you might want to see on
or around Cunda, including sights and
restaurants. While you’re here, poke around
the fun gift shop, featuring a number of
products made from local olive oil- it’s a
great way to pick up a souvenir of the region
without having to deal with touts.
59
60
İzmir
The modern city of İzmir is characterized by
wide streets lined with designer boutiques
and massive, glass-fronted offices. As
Turkey’s third-largest city, it’s a hub of both
transportation and business, and generally
speaking has a more contemporary,
commercial feel than other major urban areas
inthecountry.Infact,youmayattimesfeel
thatyou’reinGreeceorsouthernItalyrather
than Turkey.
That vibe, however, owes a lot to the setting
as well. Ringed by picturesque mountain
ranges and nestled next to a spreading bay,
İzmir is as Mediterranean as it gets. Palm
trees grow in abundance along the broad
boulevards of the city and cool sea breezes
are a welcome relief from the maddeningly
hot and humid summers which plague
travelers to the region. The spring and fall,
when the temperatures are more reasonable,
arenicetimestovisitİzmir;winters,but
contrast, tend to be cold and rainy. Snow is
rare, although not unheard of.
İzmirisanexceedinglyoldcity.Itwas
founded more than 5000 years ago as the
TrojancityofSmyrna;Homerspentmuch
of his life here. Smyrna changed political
hands many times over the centuries,
belonging to not only the Greeks but also
the Persian empire, the Roman empire, the
Byzantines,theOttomanempire,and(of
course) modern Turkey. Still, there’s not as
much in the way physical history in the form
of ruins as you might as expect. İzmir’s had
a bit of a problem with natural disasters
throughout its past, and suffered through
several which destroyed large numbers of the
historical buildings. An earthquake around
200 AD erased much of the city’s original
foundations, and- much more recently- a
devastating fire in the 1920s again leveled
a significant portion of İzmir’s historical
buildings.
Also make sure to plan a visit to one of İzmir’s
near-constant fairs - you may see signs saying
İzmir Fuarı. A multitude of events are staged
throughout the year, with themes such as
shoes, technology, agriculture, pets, and
much more. You can check out the schedule
online at www.izfas.com.tr.
Check out Kadifekale, an impressive castle
crowning a hill, as well as the asansör
(elevator) which was originally constructed
in 1907.
İzmir
İzmir has a young population and a liberal
reputation, and you can probably guess
what that means when you put the two
together: a thriving nightlife scene, as well as
hundreds of hangouts for university students
and recent grads. The Alsancak district is
the place to be if you’re looking for a rowdy
good time, with tons of rocking clubs and
bars which stay open- and packed- until the
wee hours of the morning. Try a midnight
walk along Kordon, the waterfront area of
Alsancak, and you won’t be disappointed.
During the daytime, you can find tons of little
cafes here as well.
61
Accommodation options, too, are numerous.
A huge range of hotels to suit your budget
can be found within a short walk or bus ride
from the city center. Hotel Baylan (1299
St. No: 8)in Basmane is one recommended
option, with excellent international food
(includingChineseandIndian)andapool
forguestuse.Otherwise,youcantrythe
clean and welcoming Konak Saray Hotel
(Anafartalar Caddesi No: 635, Çankaya),
featuring a terrace restaurant and set in a
restoredOttomanbuildingfrom1855.In
operation for over sixty years, Güzel İzmir
Otel ( 1368 St. No: 8 ) is also a popular and
fairly well-known budget option in İzmir.
Eat & Drink
Meşhur Tavacı Recep Usta (also known as
Tavacı), (Atatürk Cad. No:364 Kordon) is the
best South East Turkish Cuisine available in
town. Fish, grilled sea bass and mezes, usually
the fish is fresh and plenty in all seasons.
Kordon Ümitköy Balıkçısı offers great deal
of fish in Alsancak.
Kumru, a warm sandwich, made with
a special bread with sesame seeds,
Turkish sausage, grilled cheese and
tomatoes, also a vegetarian version
is available without the sausage and
with the addition of green pepper. This
is something not to be missed while in
Izmir,becauseit’salmostimpossible
to find it anywhere else in the country.
You can join the nightlife on Kıbrıs
Şehitleri Caddesi in Alsancak, and
go find the Gazi Kadinlar Street. All pubs
and cafes in Kordon (Alsancak’s waterfront)
are attractive in nice weather. 1448 St. at
Alsancak is full of bars and pubs from one
end to another.
62
İZMİR
Çeşme
This once-drab coastal town has been on
the upswing for several decades now, and
has transformed into a popular tourist
destination. Hordes of travelers descend on
its pretty streets and fountained gardens
come summer, and it’s always a good idea to
book ahead here to make sure you don’t miss
out on anything.
into the sea at one of the beaches or trying
yourhandatwindsurfing.Oneofthemost
happening spots for a relaxing day on the
sand, a night out, or even a big-name concert
if your timing’s right is Babylon Aya Yorgi
(on Aya Yorgi Beach, as the name suggests).
They have a pub, a restaurant, and a packed
event schedule.
The downtown area doubles as the old city,
with many of the buildings dating back
severalcenturies.It’sdefinitelygoodfor
an afternoon stroll, but the real attraction
of Çeşme is the summer fun of plunging
Also check out Alaçatı, roughly 8 km away
from Çeşme. This tiny town is full of old Greek
houses and windmills, lending it an air of
unquantifiable charm. Windsurfers visit by
the ton.
Getting To The Greek Islands
The mountainous Greek island of Chios, lying
approximately seven kilometers away from
the Turkish coast, makes for a fantastic day
trip or (increasingly commonly) a fun and
convenient visa run for foreigners looking to
extend their three-month tourist stamps.
Ferries from the mainland are extremely
common, making the trip hasslefree for the
most part. They depart from Çeşme harbor
and generally take around forty minutes
to complete the crossing. Consider renting
abikeonceyouarrive;it’sagreatwayto
explore the island without the burden of a
car. The primary sight to be seen on Chios
(apart from the largest town, bearing the
same name and boasting an eye-catching
castle) is Neo Moni, a monastery from the
11th century which has been named a World
HeritageSitebyUNESCO,rightinthemiddle
of the island.
Ifyouplantostayovernight,considerChios
Rooms in Chios (Leoforos Aigaiou 110, on the
harbor).It’sashady,prettyguesthouserunby
an international couple, Kiwi and Greek, with
a nice library and picturesque setting.
Urla
During high season months, the area of
Çesme is packed with locals and tourists: it
is hard to find an empty spot on the beach
and when you do, you’ll still have to be so
close to your umbrella-neighbours that you’ll
feel like you have to share your packed lunch
with them.
Ifwhatyouarelookingforisapeacefulspot
away from the crowd and all sorts of tourists,
take a bus from Çeşme to Urla, a tiny village
facing the sea. The word Urla (which is also
the name of the peninsula) comes from the
Greek word meaning ‘marshlands’. Although
not very well-known, the history of the
İZMİR
63
peninsula goes back to pre-Hellenistic times,
as recent excavations in Limantepe revealed.
Some of the pieces of art and sculpture
encountered during the research are now
exposed in Louvre.
Don’t stay in Urla though, as there is not
much left to see unfortunately. Take an urban
bus to Çeşmealtı, quiet fishermen’s village
and harbor. This area, quiet and relaxing
during the day, hosts a night-time cloth
market and lively local entertainment by the
sea, with traditional Turkish music and lots of
fish restaurants.
Palm Bungalows Beach Club
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Mavi Plaj Cad. 223 St.
No:14 Çeşmealtı
+90 232 755 10 15
[email protected]
facebook.com/pages/PalmBungalows-Beach-Club
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With the same bus for Çesmealtı, ask the driver
to drop you off at Palm Bungalows Beach
Club. This place, recently opened and very
well organized, is unexpectedly
visited by tourists from all around
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the world. Still they are the only
persons with which you’ll have
to share the private access to the
sea and the garden right next to
it. The Bungalows are new and they look more
like tiny fully furnished comfort apartments.
As the name suggests, the place also operates
as a beach club and beach parties on certain
days of the week with the performance of the
DJ brings the peak of
entertainment. Enjoy
the clean waters of
Çeşmealtı, during the
day and at night, when
you can ask to be served
dinner right by the sea.
64
İZMİR
Foça
Roughly 70 kilometers north of central İzmir, the small municipality of Foça has a rich history
and some beautiful beaches- day-trip it or stop by on your way north. Don’t be confused by the
names,though,astherearetwotownscalledFoça.Yenifoça(NewFoça)liessouthoftheone
youprobablywanttovisit,Eskifoça(OldFoça),withthesimilarly-dubbedPhocaeainthemiddle
of the two.
The name of this originally Greek city comes from the word for “seal” (fok in Turkish) due to the
huge communities of the animals living in the nearby sea. There are tons of well-preserved
archaeological sites here, mostly stemming from the Greek period prior to the Persian invasion
in546BC,whicheffectivelyendedthegoldenageofFoça.Oneofthemostimpressiveofthese
is the Temple of Athena, which is still undergoing excavations. Also be sure to see the ancient
theater,aswellasthenumeroushistoricalmosquesfrommorerecentperiods.Foçaismostly
about sea, so Fokai Restaurant ( 121 St. No: 8 ) is an excellent choice for sea food, combined
withtraditionalMediterranean‘mezesandrakı’.Ifyouwouldliketocontinueonconcentrating
Aegean Sea , check out Delphin Tour Boat(KüçükdenizLimanı)forlow-volume,relaxingand
notcrowded(10peoplelimit)toursaroundFoça.
Getting to Foça
Sinceitliesquitesomewayoutsidethemaincenterofİzmir,gettingtoFoçausedtobe
a confusing and time-consuming affair. Fortunately, this is all changing this year with the
installation of a brand-new metro train throughout the whole of İzmir which is projected to cut
traveltimesinhalf.Fromtheairport,youcantaketheAliağatrainandreachFoçaonasingle
ticket;getoffatBiçerovaandtakeadolmuşthelast3kilometerstotown.
Ofcourse,youcanstillreachEskifoçabyothermeansaswell.Ifyouhaveyourowncar,takethe
road north toward Çanakkale and turn after 39 kilometers, continuing 26 more kilometers until
youreachFoça.Otherwise,busesarealsoavailablefromcentralİzmir,runningfromsixinthe
morning until eleven at night- but the metro is likely to be the cheapest and least convoluted
method.
Foça
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Siren Pansiyon
Siren Pension is a tidy and calm retreat
situatedintheheartofFoça,justashortwalk
from the beach. The managing family of the
pension has over twenty years of experience
running accommodation for locals and
internationaltravelersalike;theyspeak
English and Turkish as well as German, and
are always ready to give you the lowdown on
the area or just chill out with you on
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the terrace and have a chat.
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Twelve rooms are available, with
options for two, three, or four
guests. They’re closed in the winter (from
December to March), so the pension has a
İsmetpaşa Mah.
161 St. No. 13
+90 232 812 26 60
[email protected]
www.sirenpansiyon.com
permanently summery
feel to it. The balconies
found in most of the
rooms, as well as the
common terrace, get
plenty of sun and have awesome sea views,
great for tanning or just hanging out with a
drink in hand to reflect on your day.
İyon Pansiyon
The rooms are all spacious and wellequipped.WirelessInternetisavailable,as
well as satellite TV and mini fridges in most of
them. You can even check out their website
beforehand and look at pictures so you can
İsmetpaşa Mah.
198 St. No. 8
+90 232 812 14 15
[email protected]
www.iyonpansiyon.com
reserve the room you like best (be warned
though, their English site is still under
construction).
Ask about car rentals and tours- the staff at
İyon can get discounts for you!
Free welcomedrink
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& free pick-up
within Foça
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Ifit’scharacteryou’reafterinFoça,don’t
hesitate: make your way directly to İyon
Pension. The place is full of fun and bright
decorations and the staff is a joy as well,
with a terrific sense of humor and a mission
to make your stay memorable. They’ll insist
that you let them know if anything is amiss,
and they mean it- İyon not just a business
but also a home. They go the extra mile
here, with friendly touches like delivering a
morning paper to your door if you request it!
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İZMİR
Bergama
Bergama, about two hours from İzmir or
nearly ten from İstanbul by bus, makes a
terrific hub for exploring the historical sites
around Turkey’s north Mediterranean coast.
With 60,000 residents, it’s much smaller
than İzmir and can be a pleasanter place
to to base yourself out of if you’re not the
huge-metropolis type. Still, Bergama is large
enough to offer pretty much anything you’re
looking for in a travel headquarters.
Bergama contains a number of truly awesome
historicalsites;evenifyou’replanningto
spend most of your time exploring nearby
towns and ruins, don’t forget to budget
some time for the gems contained in the
city proper. The temples and mosques are
of particular interest, and anybody with
an archaeological bent will appreciate the
archaeology museum displaying many of
the finest artifacts from around the area.
Ifyou’reonthehuntforsouvenirs,consider
Bergama’s booming carpet scene. Those on a
tighter budget should consider looking for a
bottleofhomemadewine.It’smadeprimarily
for and by locals, so don’t feel like you’re
gettingtouristkitsch!Ifyouarelookingfor
a hamam experience, check out Hacı Hekim
Hamamı ( Cumhuriyet Cad.)
Bergama’s Acropolis
You can spot the magnificent acropolis,
towering over the eastern side of the city,
from anywhere in Bergama. You can walk or
drive up to the summit, some five kilometers
from the center of the city. There is an
admission fee, so make sure you’ve got some
lira on you when you make the hike.
The temples of Trajan and Athena are among
the most impressive buildings to be found
here. Both have been partially restored using
the original materials. The site of the Library
ofPergamumliesbetweenthetwo;once
containing over 200,000 volumes, it was
famous for its size in ancient times.
Also well worth checking out is the majestic
Hellenic Theater behind the temples,
from which you can gaze out over the
breathtaking panorama of Bergama below.
When you’re finished wandering up and
down the well-preserved steps of the theater,
take the promenade over to the Temple of
Dionysus.
Bergama
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Allanoi
The small settlement of Allanoiliesapproximately20kilometersfromBergama;makeita
day-trip if you’re basing yourself out of the city. Allanoi, famous for its natural spa, enjoyed the
height of its prominence around the second century AD under the Roman empire. Curiously,
thereisonlyoneknownmentionofthesiteinancientdocuments;AeliusAristidesmadeanote
of it in his discussion of the healing sciences around 100 AD.
Unfortunately, a plan laid by the Turkish State Hydraulic Works in the 1990s calls for
necessitated damming the İlya River in order to increase the efficacy of agriculture around
Bergama.DespiteheatedprotestsfromUNESCOandtheEuropeanUnion(amongothers),the
dam has recently been completed and much of Allanoi now lies under a thick layer of sand.
Odyssey Guest House
OdysseyGuestHouseisabookISCOU
lover’s paradise! Rumored to be
the largest in all of Turkey (okay,
it’s an unconfirmed rumor, but
if it’s not the biggest then it’s
certainly close), their book exchange ranks
up there as a must-see in Bergama. Grab
a novel or head to the reference section if
you’re trying to put together a plan for your
nextfewdays;theyhaveofferingsintonsof
different languages.
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Talatpaşa Mah.
Abacıhan St. No. 13
Tel: +90 232 631 35 01
[email protected]
www.odysseyguesthouse.com
Stay in one of their eleven rooms, all of which
have AC and most of which also feature
private bathrooms. There’s hot water 24/7, so
your showers will always be nice and steamy.
The kitchen is available for guests to use- try
your hand at Turkish cooking and then take
your meal up to the scenic terrace or down to
the spacious common room. Laundry service
and breakfast are available for an extra fee.
Çiçeksever Kebap Salonu
Genuinely cooked Turkish food. The friendly
owners Ertan and Volkan are well famous in
townandintheareaofIzmirfortheirKöfte
(Turkish meatballs), so don’t forget to order
Bankalar Cad. No: 71
+90 232 633 38 22
at least one portion!! We suggest you to try
also the Kaymaklı Kemalpaşa dessert,too.
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İZMİR
Ephesus
Ephesus
Ephesus is one of Turkey’s foremost archaeological sites: and no wonder, as it has a long and
varied history which left behind some of the country’s most stunning ruins anywhere. Located
aboutfourkilometersfromSelçuk,it’spossibletowalktothesite;otherwise,youcantakeone
of the dolmuşes from the town center, which depart every fifteen minutes. Ephesus is known in
Turkish as Efes, which, if you’ve been here for a while, you’ll probably instantly recognize as the
name of the most popular brand of beer in Turkey!
Ephesus was originally founded by the Greeks and enjoyed a prominent status as one of the
twelvecitiesoftheIonianLeague.Afteritwasconquered,itwasformanyyearsthesecond
largestcityintheentireRomanempire,afterRomeitself.Infact,inthefirstcenturyBC,Ephesus
was the second-largest city not only of the empire but of the world.
The famous Temple of Artemis, known for being one of the seven wonders of the ancient
world, was located here. Sadly, it was destroyed in 401 AD by an angry multitude and the only
part which can be seen today is a lone column. Still, archaeology enthusiasts will be far from
disappointed by the remarkable ruins still in abundance here.
Don’t miss the Library of Celsus, with its grand entrance, which once housed over 12,000
volumes and had reading rooms constructed particularly
to take advantage of natural light. Also see the
temples of Hadrian and Domitian, in
various stages of reconstruction, which
feature wonderful reliefs. Also check
out the recently-discovered gladiator
graveyard.
You can see many artifacts from
Ephesus in the archaeological
museuminnearbySelçuk,
although a large percentage of
the finds have been relocated
to the British Museum and the
Ephesos Museum in Austria.
Ephesus
İZMİR
69
No Frills Ephesus Tours
Ifyounormallyshyawayfromorganized
tours but still wish you could reap the
rewards of being shown around by a
professional, No Frills is for you. Unlike many
other tour companies, they recognize that
you’d rather spend your time seeing the
sights and learning about the fascinating
history of Ephesus than being dragged into
yet another gift shop. No Frills promises just
that- an informative and fun experience
without the hassle of shopping stops.
Free copy of
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Ephesus
guidebook
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They offer a range of different
tours to fit your schedule
and your budget. Among the
more popular options are
Atatürk Mah. Sen Jean Cad.
No: 3A, Selçuk
+90 232 892 88 28
[email protected]
www.nofrillsephesustours.com
the Ephesus tour (half day or full day) and
the perennial favorite, the ANZAC tour,
of particular interest to Kiwis, Brits, and
Aussies. A tour with No Frills is an interactive
experience starting from right when you
book- make sure to let them know if you’d
like to see something which isn’t on the
normal route, or if you have any special
needs you’d like them to accommodate.
ANZ Guesthouse

Another obvious favorite with traveling
Aussies and Kiwis, ANZ Guesthouse is
colorfully decorated in the Turkish style with
couches and kilims galore. Kick off your boots
and head to the rooftop terrace for
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nice views and good company.
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1064 St. No. 10,
Selçuk
+90 232 892 60 50
[email protected]
www.anzguesthouse.com
There’s a book exchange so you can
plan out the next leg of your trip- of
course, don’t hesitate to pose your questions
to the staff, also, since they’re full of
recommendations and great advice. There’s
no bar here, but feel free to head to the store
and bring back your own beers if you want to
relax with a cold one in the afternoon or save
some money by working on a bit of a buzz
before you hit the town at night.
Private rooms can house between one and
four people, and there are also dorms for
12-15 if you want to stretch your budget a
little farther.
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Ephesus
İZMİR
Boomerang Guest House
Run by a hospitable English-speaking
family, Boomerang Guest House is an
affordable and chilled out place to
sling your bags and have some fun.
Anybody is welcome at Boomerang, but
as the name suggests, Aussies will feel
particularly at home here- from Down
Under-themed decor to the complimentary
Vegemite on offer at breakfast-time, this
guest house is packed with little touches to
make backpackers feel like they’re back in the
southern hemisphere.
But don’t get too comfortable lounging
around, because Boomerang has got a
perfect location for exploring the ancient
wondersofthearea.It’sjustashortwalkfrom
the archaeological museum if you’re dying
to check out some of the artifacts found
atnearbyEphesus.Ifyou’reinmoreofan
outdoorsy mood and want to head straight
to the site itself, no worries. Boomerang
can help you arrange transport to Ephesus.
They’ll also organize tours for you to nearby
Şirince, Pamukkale, or to the Greek islands to
the west.
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Take your pick between
singles, doubles, triples, or
dorm rooms with ensuite
bathrooms;allofthem
come standard with clean

Atatürk Mah. Sevgi Yolu
1047 St. No. 10 Selçuk
+90 232 892 48 79
[email protected]
www.boomerangguesthouse.com
linens and a traditional Turkish breakfast
included in the price.
Ifyou’relookingforachangeofpaceand
adifferentwaytoexploreSelçuk,consider
hiring one of the bicycles offered by
Boomerang.The staff can also arrange airport
transfers or help you with a broad spectrum
of other travel matters- tours, car rental, plane
tickets, and bus schedules, to name just a few.
Also check out the affiliated Boomerang
Restaurant and Bar, where all kinds of
food is served, from Turkish-style grills and
other local favorites to salads and more
international fare for those of you battling a
littlehomesickness.It’srightnextdoorthe
the hostel in a renovated historical building
with a beautiful garden.
Şirince
İZMİR
71
The tiny village of ŞirincewaspopulatedbyGreeksuntilthepopulationexchangewhichtookplacein1923;
sincethen,MuslimTurkshavemadeittheirhome.OnlyeightkilometersfromSelçuk,Şirinceisaneasydaytrip. Taking the dolmuş to get there is a hassle-free experience, and there’s one departing in either direction
every hour.
Today, Şirince is primarily known as a producer of fine fruit wines. Perhaps surprisingly, this is a recent
development, and the shift toward wine tourism has come only in the last several decades after a German
man named Helmut Hermann Krauss fell in love with the town and decided to start producing wine there.
After teaming up with a local and establishing the Artemis Şirince restaurant, he pioneered a line of
deliciousandaromaticfruitwines-takeanafternoonandsamplethemforyourself!Itallstartedwiththe
blueberry variety, so you might want to begin with that one as well.
Pagan Egg Painting at Simyacı
Şirince isn’t just about wine, though, and
there are plenty of alternative experiences to
behadhere.Oneofthecoolestiscertainly
a visit to Simyacı handicrafts center, where
they specialize in egg painting. Eggs are
symbolic in the pagan traditions of hundreds
of cultures worldwide, and Turkey is no
exception;they’llgiveyouaguidetothe
Şirince Village
+90 232 898 32 64
[email protected]
symbolism so you can work out what each
one means for yourself!
Dereli Kaplankaya Wines
Dereli Kaplankaya Wines is one of Şirince’s
most esteemed wine houses. They’ve been
in operation since 1999 and have built
a solid reputation for themselves as one
of the classiest establishments in townISCOU
stop by and see the shop yourself, all
dark wood and fancy kilims. They use
Şirince Village
+90 232 898 32 28
[email protected]
www.sirincekaplankayasaraplari.com
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the natural flavors of the fruits without
artificial flavoring.
Dionysos Houses

Şirince Village
+90 532 217 87 05
[email protected]
www.dionysospension.com
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Based in a restored 200-year old building,
Dionysos is a stylish homestead with an oldfashioned vibe. Don’t be deceived, thoughall the modern amenities you want to make
your stay comfortable are, of course, available
here, including air conditioning and wi-fi and
ensuite bathrooms in all of the rooms.
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İZMİR
Kuşadası
Sezgin Hotel & Guest House
Kuşadası (“BirdIsland”,referringtothesmall
PigeonIslandjustoffthemainland)isaresort
town popular with international visitors and
Turks alike. With roughly 50,000 permanent
residents, Kuşadası spends the winters in
relative silence, growing significantly
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in the high summer season with
the influx of tourists. The modern
town center and harbor area is
lined with shops and small cafes,
where you can find good deals on carpets
and other souvenirs with some patience
and a little skill at
the age-old art of
haggling.
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Accommodation options are numerous here,
but one of the most highly-recommended is
without a doubt Sezgin Hotel, which offers
single, double, or triple rooms. The owner is a
former traveler himself, and has gone out of
his way to furnish the place with everything
you might need for your life on the road.
There’sanInternetcafeifyoudon’thaveyour
own laptop along (and wi-fi for those of you
whodo);logonhereforabitandsmokea
water pipe, locally known as nargile.
There’s an outdoor swimming pool and a
book exchange as well, the latter featuring a
number of guidebooks to the region so you’ll
have no trouble planning out the next leg of
yourjourney.Ifit’srecommendationsyou’re
after, though, another awesome resource is

Aslanlar Cad. No. 68
+90 256 614 42 25
[email protected]
www.sezginhotel.com
the staff themselves, who have done their
share of traveling around Turkey and have
tons of ideas ready to offer you in English,
German, Korean, or Japanese. Also check out
the restaurant and barbecue in their beautiful
garden! Breakfast is a buffet, included in the
price, so you’re sure to start each day with a
full stomach.
Getting to Kuşadası is usually a pretty
straightforwardaffair;catchabusfrommost
cities in Turkey. A stay in Kuşadası is also a
great opportunity to take a brief sojourn
in Greek territory, as there are daily ferry
services to the Greek island of Samos.
Pamukkale
DENİZLİ
73
Used as a spa since antiquity, Pamukkale is one
of the country’s most famous destinations for
tourists and Turks alike. Pamukkale has been
famous for its natural spa since at least the
second century BC, when it was a thriving GrecoRoman locality believed to heal bathers of a
wide variety of ills, including rheumatism, heart,
stomach, and skin diseases, and even high blood
pressure. The hot waters flow from the white
geological formations, known as travertines,
which give the town its name (Pamukkale means
“cotton castle” in Turkish).
While you’re in the region, also check out the
ancient city of Hierapolis (founded, as the
name suggests, by the Greeks). Traditionally the
jumping-off point for visitors to the hot springs,
Hierapolis houses a number of impressive relics
from its early days.
You’ll most likely pass through the larger nearby
city of Denizli before continuing on to Pamukkale
and Hierapolis, as the majority of buses and
trainsstophere.Ifyou’recominginbyair,the
closest airport is also in Denizli and is an hour
distant.
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DENİZLİ
Pamukkale
Artemis Yörük Hotel
With both dorms and private rooms available,
there’ssomethingforeveryonehere.Orifyou
really want to get back to nature, consider
pitching a tent in the camping area which is
opened for the high season.

Pamukkale Kasabası
Atatürk Cad. No. 48 / A
+90 258 272 26 74
[email protected]
www.artemisyorukhotel.com
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Enjoy the huge buffet breakfast
served every morning and
included in the price of your
room, go for a swim in the pool, or take in the
view of the travertines... you’ll find a pleasant
and welcoming atmosphere at this familyrun pension, and all the help you need with
further bookings. The food is fantastic, and
you’lllovetheatmospheretoo.Insummer,
you can take your meals on the rooftop
terrace and watch the the slow pace of village
life as the locals go about their day far below
you;inwinter,youmightprefertoeatby
the fireplace and warm up as you fill your
stomach with tasty Turkish cuisine including
meatballs, kebabs, and vegetarian dishes, all
made on-site and filled with healthy, organic
ingredients. Everyone loves a barbecue,
especially the staff at Artemis Yörük, so put
on your shades and gather around the grill!
Tea is free all day- choose from an assortment
of blends.
For world-weary travelers, ask about the
Turkish baths, the sauna, and the professional
staffmasseuse.Orjustpickoutabookfrom
the book exchange and relax for a while!
When you’ve caught your breath, you can
take a gander at the travel desk and get some
advice on your next port of call.
Pamukkale
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Mustafa Pension
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The closest accommodation to the Hierapolis
entrance gate, Mustafa Pension could not
be more conveniently located. As you
would expect at a hostel close to one of the
country’s foremost symbols of relaxation, this
is a calm and laid-back kind of place where
you can chill out and have a tea or coffee
(free all day, including apple
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tea!) and share a water pipe with
friends if the mood strikes you.
Kale Mah. Atatürk St. No. 22
+90 258 272 22 40
[email protected]
The staff is full of interesting history
and travelers’ tales which will spark your
inspiration for the next leg of your journey.
Don’t hesitate to ask them any questions
you may have! Dorms and private rooms are
available.
Hermosa Tours
Located just in front of the affiliated Artemis
Yörük Guesthouse, Hermosa is a relatively
new company brimming with personality and
enthusiasm.InpartnershipwithGoHoliday
Turkey, they offer a bursting package of
cool trips and unique tours
to bring your trip to the next
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level. Turkish cultural tours
are a mainstay, allowing you a
look into the heart of modern
society in this fascinating
country, or if history is more up your alley
you can opt for a more traditional guided
tour bringing you to all the hotspots, from
Cappadocia to Gallipoli.
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Kale Mah. Atatürk Cad. 5/A
+90 258 272 26 66
[email protected]
www.hermosatoursturkey.com
Dream cruises are organized at Hermosa as
well, if you’ve got a bit of a craving to be
outontheopenbluesea.Orifyou’remore
into sweeping views, you can sign up for a
hot air balloon flight over the Cappadocian
moonscape. Both standard and customized
tours are available, and Hermosa will work
with you to figure out a great itinerary
according to what you and your group most
want to see during your stay.
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Gökova/Akyaka
The tiny town of Gökova, with only about 1500 inhabitants in the off-season, has been growing in
popularity with holiday-goers since the 1970s. These days, it enjoys a modest popularity during the
summer high season, and you’ll find it busy, though not overrun, in June and July.
Despite being an ancient settlement, Gökova has no ruins of any major significance. Most visitors
come for the natural beauty to be found here, due to the town’s location on the scenic “Plain of
Heaven”,aswellasthewidevarietyofwildlifethrivinginthewetlandsnearby.Otters,flamingos,
pelicans,andheronsareallrelativelycommon,andifyou’reluckyyoumightseeallofthem;
increase your chances of a sighting by coming in the wintertime.
Ifbird-watchingistoolow-keyforyou,considerparaglidingfromthenearby Akyaka, a sport which
has been growing in recent years.
Rüzgar Cafe & Bar
Salih St. No. 2
Akyaka
+90 252 243 42 17
[email protected]
www.gokovaruzgar.com
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adaytryingyourhandatanyofthem;don’t
miss Rüzgar’s equipment shop, where
you can stock up on all the top-ofCOUNT
the-line watersports gear you’ll need
to start an illustrious career as a
professional fun-haver.
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Rüzgar is absolutely a one-stop shop for
everything you need in Gökova. There’s
a waterfront cafe and bar where you can
grab a drink and chill out in the sun while
you decide what to do
next- and you’ll find that
COUNT
you’re in exactly the right
place to be making that
decision! Apart from the
food-and-drink
side of things, Rüzgar specializes
in hooking you up with any and all
activities that can be found here in
Gökova. Take your pick and spend
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Mayısevi
After a while on the road, most travelers
succumb to the fatigue of days spent in
buses and indistinguishable dorm rooms... if
that sounds familiar, you can’t afford to miss
Mayısevi. Their whole philosophy revolves
around the idea that everyone
needs to get back to nature now
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and then. You’ll feel like you’re in
Eden here. Anyone who shares
Mayısevi’s appreciation for nature
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İnişdibi Mah.
Barzalar St.ak
+90 252 243 44 36
[email protected]
www.mayisevi.com
will love the homegrown organic food and
thebeautifulgarden;there’salsoacommon
kitchen so you can prepare your own meals
if cooking is your forte.
Gökova/Akyaka
MUĞLA
77
Caria Pan Travel
This travel company is a particularly good
choice for organizing outdoorsy activities.
They offer an intersting variety of tours:
from getting your adrenaline pumping with
hiking and biking trips to cooking lessons
and daily yoga walks. Caria Pan Travel is
atouroperatorestablishedinOutdoor
Tourism, providing year-round
guided tours to many different
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The company also owns a pension,
perfect for those who want to be far away
Karanfil St. No: 25/1
+90 252 243 53 20
[email protected]
www.cariapantravel.com/en
from the crowded Tourismus beaches, The
pensionisSituatedatthevillageAkçapınarin
the Gökova Valley. A design mixture of many
Artists gave these place a incredible taste.
Many of our Multi activity tours will be based
here. İts on the routes Carian and İdyma and
just 10 minutes away from the Kiteboard base
Gökova.
Nova Apart & Hostel
Budget travelers rejoice- Akyaka has finally
become the proud owner of its first hostel.
Recently opened under the umbrella of Nova
Aparts, it’s the first dorm in the area and by
that alone is sure to attract a chill young
crowd looking for a deal in the blue-green
paradise of Akyaka. Six beds are up
for grabs, and the dorm features
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a common kitchen as well as free
lockers.
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Should you be looking for a longer
stay to catch your breath and get to know
the rhythms of life in town, the apartments
for which Nova
is named will
be right up
Sefa St. No:4 - Akyaka
+90 252 243 53 54
[email protected]
www.novaaparts.com
your alley. They all come standard with AC,
a mini fridge, a phone, 24 hour hot water,
and a wi-fi connection in your room. Each
apartment has a bathroom, of course, as
well as an American-style kitchen stocked
with basic cooking supplies. You’ll be only
70 meters from the Azmak River and beach,
so definitely don’t forget your swimsuit and
your sunscreen. Between the sun, sand, and
the pleasure of having an apartment all to
yourself, Nova will start feeling like your
true home away from home before you even
know it.
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MUĞLA
Dalyan
Beautiful Dalyan is located in an
environmentally protected area and is home
to many species of wildlife which flourish
in the mixed salt and fresh waters of the
wetlands.It’sabird-watcher’sparadise,but
there’s also a ton for history buffs to sink
their teeth into here. Highlights of the town
include the turtle beach nearby and the
magnificent rock tombs.
Dalyan is the site of the ancient city of
Caunos,whichwassettledaround200AD;
a number of the ruins are well-preserved
and can be reached by boat from the town
proper. Look out for the acropolis, the
Byzantine basilica, and the Roman baths
in particular, although the sites here are
numerous and you can lose yourself in the
cobbled streets leading between walls and
temples.
Along the peaceful pathway “Love Road” in
Dalyan, at the coolest spot with a breeze,
Riverside Cafe (www.cafe.riversidehouses.
net) is waiting for your visit with wide ranged
menu including chilling feasts and drinks.
Even more locally famous, however, is İztuzu
Beach. Home to many loggerhead turtles
who crawl up on the shore every June and
July to lay their eggs, İztuzu is a well-known
touristdestinationforwildlifelovers.Of
course, it’s crucial to avoid disturbing the
turtles;makesuretoabidebyallposted
signs and warnings, especially between May
andOctober,whentheentirearealiesunder
environmental protection for the sake of the
loggerheads. The beach lies southwest of the
mouth of the Dalyan Çayı, the river which
connects the Köyceğiz Lake with the sea.
To reach Dalyan, hop on a dolmuş from
Fethiye or Marmaris. Alternately, you can fly
into Dalaman Airport, which is roughly 40
minutes away from the town. Taxis and public
transport are both available.
Dalyan
MUĞLA
Bahaus Resort
Intheshadeofthemountainsand
ringed by orchards of pomegranate,
orange, and lemon, Bahaus Hostel
is a beautiful and sprawling resort
where you can find a note of
harmony near the sea. Bahaus is a
well-known and much-respected
franchise in Turkey, and
travelers throughout the
country know that the
brand stands for safety,
fun, and excitement.

İztuzu Yolu No. 25 Ortaca
+90 252 284 50 50
[email protected]
www.bahausresort.com
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Tons of accommodation
options are available for any style and any
budget. There are single, double, triple,
and quadruple rooms as well as dorms and
camping facilities. The rooms come with
some of the most extensive facilities in
Turkey, including hairdryers, LCD TVs, AC,
mini-fridges, and pool towels. The wi-fi signal
is strong throughout the whole area, and you
can connect from anywhere.
The outdoor facilities are, if anything, even
better. Two pool tables, a swimming pool,
two jacuzzis, a huge bar, ping-pong tables...
you’ll never be bored staying at Bahaus.
And that’s only a partial list- if none of those
options strike your fancy, maybe you’d prefer
a game of foosball or backgammon? A bike
trip? Some exercise at the gym? Smoking a
water pipe? Pretty much anything you can
think of is right here.
Ofcourse,thefoodisn’tneglected!Bahaus
uses organic products for most of their
dishes- a ton of ingredients come from the
on-site farm. Breakfast is included in the price
of your room, and you can get lunch and
dinner (as well as snacks) throughout the day.
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Dalyan
MUĞLA
Kaunos Tours
Kaunos Tours was opened in 1993 as
a rental company for various types of
transportation around the Dalyan area, and
has since expanded to include all kinds of
toursandactivities.Ofcourse,youcanstill
rent cars from Kaunos (as well as bicycles
and motorbikes, if that’s more your style),
but don’t settle on something too quickly,
because you might be pleasantly surprised
by the sheer vastness of the spectrum of
activities they can help you out with.
Before you make your decision, there’s
something you should know about Kaunos,
and that’s the fact that they’re a long
way from your typical tour company. The
staff here are hired particularly for their
knowledge of and experience in the region,
and they are carefully trained to be able to
answer any question you may have. They
want you to come away from your experience
with them not only remembering your time
with Kaunos as the best aspect of your stay in
Dalyan, but also with a deeper understanding
of the culture and traditions underlying it
all. The very first detailed map of the Dalyan
area came about as a direct result of Kaunos’s
exploratory mountain bike tours in 1995, so
you know they’re good.
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Sarısu St. Binlik Pasajı
No. 1/A
+90 252 284 28 16
[email protected]
www.kaunostours.com
Anyway, down to business. All Kaunos tours
come with free transfer from your hostel
or hotel, so no worries about missing the
boat (so to speak). Cruises, trekking, and sea
kayaking are among your options here, and
of course they still specialize in mountain
biking tours if you’re feeling the need to get
youradrenalinepumping.OrmaybeJeep
safaris or canyoning are more up your alley?
Kaunos can also arrange airport transfers
for those of you flying into Dalaman Airport.
Transfer directly to their office and then keep
your independence from public transport by
renting a car to explore the area!
Köyceğiz
Tango Hostel
Originallysettledin3400BC,Köyceğiz
has a long and rich history during which,
like most towns in Turkey, it changed
hands numerous times. Nearby historical
sites, including the impressive rock
tombs, represent the influence of many
civilizations.
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MUĞLA

Ali İhsan Kalmaz Cad.
+90 252 262 25 01
[email protected]
www.tangohostel.com
home. Get to know the place right away as
you enjoy your free coffee or tea as soon as
you walk in the door!
Köyceğiz is a quiet haven, with a much more
traditional feel than the larger cities which
surround it. Check out the market held
every Monday, mainly frequented by locals
although some travelers show up to do some
shopping the old-fashioned way as well.
You should really stay a few nights to
properly appreciate the tranquility of
Köyceğiz, and there’s no better place to do
it than at Tango Pension. This laid-back little
place has singles, doubles, and triples, all
with their own balconies from which you can
admire great views of the mountains and the
lake.Ifyou’drathersocializewhileyouwatch
the sunset, head up to the rooftop balcony
and have a chat with your hosts or your
fellow travelers over a delicious home-cooked
meal in the traditional Turkish style.
Tangoofferslaundryservice,Internet
facilities, and the opportunity to make
international phone calls to your friends back
Sami and Şahin, the two brothers who jointly
run Tango, are friendly as they come and will
do everything under the sun to make sure
your stay is filled with fun and good vibes.
They know all the best spots in town and can
fix you up with a huge range of activities. You
might be surprised at the things they can
organize for you, actually- everything from
moonlight boat rides to mudbaths, campfire
nights, crabbing, trekking, canyoning,
sojourns to Turtle Beach... the list goes on.
82
MUĞLA
Datça
Datçaislocatedhalfwayoutonanarrow
peninsula of the same name, which itself
sticks out from the mainland halfway
between İzmir and Antalya. The eastern half
of the peninsula is fertile in sections, while
the western end, more mountainous and
sparsely inhabited, may once have been the
site of the ancient settlement of Knidos.
of sampling the local cuisine, particularly
a certain dessert made from almonds and
dried figs.
Most travelers arrive via Marmaris, which lies
some 75 kilometers to the east and makes a
convenient transfer point for those coming
by bus.
Interestingly,bothDatçaitselfandthe
numerous smaller villages around it are built
some distance from the water, a practice
stemming from the inhabitants’ fear of pirate
attacks throughout antiquity and continuing
throughtheendoftheOttomanEmpire.
However, the coast holds significant interest
for visitors in the form of pretty coves and
small bays which can be found along its
length. Travelers should also make a point
Ilıca Camping
İskele Mah. Taşlık Plajı
+90 252 712 34 00
[email protected]
www.datcailicacamping.com
Open until October 29
COUNT
10%
Free
welcome drink
DIS
IlıcaCampingisidealforanyonekeenon
enjoying the summer sunshine which is so
abundantinDatça.Ifyou’drathernotbe
cooped up in a hotel room, why not save
some money and spend your time camping
orRVinginstead?Ilıcahasthebestlocation
around, just on the seafront, and with tons of
facilities set up just so you can get the most
out of it.
Datça
83
MUĞLA
Polka Datça
Ambaracı Cad. No: 9
+90 555 731 25 07
facebook.com/PolkaDatca
but it is already popular among the locals.
The restaurant offers breakfasts, lunches
and dinners with Turkish, Greek and
Mediterraneanspecialties.If
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you are a big group, you can
call to book, it is also a perfect
place for a special party. The
cafe has all kinds of coffee
(includingIrishcoffee),home-madecold
drinks and home made snacks!
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NT
From the same owners of Polka Cafe
who are frequent travelers in this area, a
colorful cafe-restaurant just opened less
thenayearagoinDatça,exactlywiththe
purpose of creating a space to relax and
hang out with friends. Breakfasts are highly
recommended: abundant and with fresh
locally grown products. The menu offers also
special bratwurst made in Fethiye, sangria,
homemade ice tea and ice tea and much
moretocome.IfwhatwasmissinginDatça
was a cute alternative place to hang out, here
wehaveitnow.Inanicespaciousgarden,
comfortable couches and few tables are
waitingforyou!PolkaDatçahasjustopened,
84
Bodrum
MUĞLA
The pretty resort town of Bodrum is located on a peninsula not far from Muğla, easily reachable
bybus.ItwasoncethesiteofthefamousMausoleum of Halicarnassus, one of the Seven
WondersoftheAncientWorld;youcanseethefoundationsashortwayfromthemarina.
Bodrum Castle is considered the town’s foremost landmark, and has been extraordinarily
preserved. A more unusual stop is the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology, the best
museum in the region and one of the finest in all of Turkey.
Bodrum’s fantastic nightlife is definitely a major factor in its continuing tourist appeal, and you’ll
find bars and clubs open at all hours if you want to join the crowds for drinks and dancing. Try
Kule Bar (Cumhuriyet Cad. Dr Alim Bey Bedesteni No:55) for a terrific rock scene, or if you’re
after a high-class night on the town, head to Mandalin Bar (Çarşı Mah. Dr Alim Bey Cad 1025
St. The best beaches are found to the northwest- make your way along the peninsula’s northern
coast to Gölköy, Türkbükü, Gündoğan, and Yalıkayak.
Bodrum has a variety of sleeping options, though many of them tend toward the expensive
side. Some safe choices are Okyanus Otel (+902523167315;AtatürkCad.EskiAdliyeSt.No:
40) and Hotel Kalender (+902523193310;GumberMah.AyazCad.No:50).
Hanende Restaurant
You might have come to Bodrum for the
party atmosphere and the sandy beaches, but
after a while you may find yourself craving a
bit of a more low-key environment
(maybe after a big night out?).
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Ifyouwantabreakfromall
the tourists, there’s no better
way to escape the crowds than
a meal at Hanende Restaurant.
It’sgearedmainlytowardlocals,soit’san
ideal spot to skip out from the bustle of
Bodrum’s resort feel and get a taste of the
real culture- no pun intended. The fare is
primarily traditional Turkish dishes garnering
high reviews from residents, and all of the
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20%
Çarşı Mah. Taşlık St.
+90 252 316 06 12
facebook.com/hanende.bodrum
food is made in the Turkish ev yemek- home
food- style.
What’s more, you can plan your day while
you’re eating! Hanende has an affiliated tour
boat company which can take you out on
the blue waters of the Mediterranean. There’s
definitely no nicer way to relax than the
combination of great organic food followed
by an outing on the sea!
Bodrum
MUĞLA
85
Alfa Apart
Alfa Apart Location, location, location!
Just 150 metres to the sandy beach and
surrounded by a lush green garden to chill
out in. The apartments are in a little village
called Kadikalesi, which has kept its village
charm and yet is within easy reach of the
busier resorts of Turgutreis, Gumusluk and
Bodrum.
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When you enter Alfa Apart you
will be hit by the peaceful feel
of the place, the quirky garden
furniture and the friendliness of the staff.
They have a range of rooms available from
shared dorms to private air-con or non aircon apartments. Each apartment has its own
private bathroom, kitchenette, free Wi-Fi and
patio or terrace overlooking the garden.
11. st. No:6 Kadıkalesi
Turgutreis-Bodrum
+90 507 631 87 20
[email protected]
www.alfaapart.com
Inthegardenthereareplentyofchairs,
cushions and hammocks, perfect for relaxing,
making friends and outdoor meals. They
also have a selection of games, books and a
great table tennis table for you to play on!
Their partner hotel nearby has kindly agreed
for Alfa Apart guests to have the use of
their swimming pool.There are local shops
selling your everyday essentials and two
local restaurants within 3 minutes walking
distance.
86
MUĞLA
Marmaris
The pretty beachside town of Marmaris is
a seriously happening destination, due to
the simple fact that there’s something for
everyone here. Partiers will have a ball in
the techy clubs and smoky bars on the bar
street close to the open market, as Marmaris
is justly known for having a solid nightlife
scene bursting with dancing and drinking
until the early hours of the morning.
Those with a more low-key style, though, will
not go wanting. There are plenty of activities
to keep you occupied during your time in
Marmaris, starting with the popular cruises
which depart from the picturesque, yacht-
Özcan Pansiyon
Kemeraltı Mh. 66 St. No:11
+90 252 412 77 61
ozcanpansiontonmarmaris@
hotmail.com
Barış Motel &
Pansiyon
Atatürk Cad., 66St. No:10
+90 252 413 06 52
[email protected]
www.barismotel.com
lined harbor. Shopping is also great fun, and
you’ll doubtless come across hundreds of
quirky little shops calling your name, not to
mention the bazaar, where you can stumble
onto convincing knockoffs of every brand
you can think of. To top it off, Marmaris is
home to two waterparks.
The closest international airport is located in
Dalaman, roughly 100 kilometers away. From
there, it’s easy enough to catch one of the
frequent bus transfers, which take an hour
and a half to reach Marmaris. To get around
in town or for daytrips in the area, you can
rely on the omnipresent dolmuşes.
Maltepe Pansiyon
Kemeraltı Mh. 66 St. No: 9
+90 252 412 16 29
www.maltepepansiyon.com
Send us
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Get you travel questions answered at
88
Lycian Way
Turkey’s southern Mediterranean coast is dotted with
ancient ruins and sleepy seaside towns, many of which
are reachable by the standard methods of dolmuş and
bus transport. But for anybody seeking a more personal
and intense encounter with all that the region has to
offer, the 500-odd kilometer Lycian Way presents the
ideal experience for taking it all in.
Stretching from Fethiye to Antalya, the Lycian Way
(Likya Yolu in Turkish) is a winding and mountainous
walking path primarily following the coastline. Kate
Clow, who spearheaded the project to construct the
trail in the late 1990s, intentionally designed the route to hit as many major archaeological
sites as possible. Yet the real allure of the trek is found in the less-known and less-appreciated
elements along the way: chatting with villagers while goats mill around unchecked, listening
to the sounds of nature while gazing down into a lush and untouched valley, coming across a
thousand year old Lycian tomb covered in moss.
Ifyoudon’thavethetimeorenergytotackletheentireroute,youcanpickandchoosesmaller
sectionstowalkandpickupthetrailfromothertownsalongtheway.Ifyouplantoattempt
the full hike, allow a month to 45 days and be sure to pick up Kate Clow’s original and highly
detailed guide entitled, unsurprisingly, The Lycian Way. The entire path is waymarked with
distinctive red and white markers found on rocks and trees, but at times they can be hard to
spot and you should stay safe by never taking shortcuts or deviating from the path if possible.
Anybody with a penchant for trekking and a love of history should make the Lycian Way (or at
least parts of it!) a priority in a visit to the southern coast. Wandering the trail is the surest way
of feeling instantly miles away from the rush and frenzy of İstanbul or Antalya and experiencing
first-hand the slow pace and irresistible allure of rural Turkey.
LYCIAN WAY
89
90
Fethiye
LYCIAN WAY
Fethiye & Around
The mid-size town of Fethiye is easy to reach from anywhere in Turkey, with a busy otogar and
frequent connections from the hour-distant Dalaman airport. Whether you’re out to hike the
Lycian Way, indulge in some adrenaline-pumping extreme sports, or simply relax on southern
Turkey’s sandy beaches, you’re likely to pass through Fethiye at some point. The town’s streets
arecrowdedwithinternationalvisitors,particularlyduringthehighseason,butforgoodreason;
it makes an ideal starting point for visiting local Lycian ruins, soaking up sun, and getting active
in the thriving paragliding or sea canoeing scenes. Go hunting for the sarcophagii which can
be found around in several streets around town and take a day-trip to the cave tombs just
outside of southern Fethiye. And if you’re ready to party at the end of a busy day, you’ll feel right
at home here, where locals and travelers alike meet in pulsing discos and dance until the early
hours of the morning.

Pastoral Valley
Pastoral Valley EcoFarm, several kilometers
outside of Fethiye proper, is definitely not
your typical camping or pension experience.
Devoted to a relaxed, communal, and natural
lifestyle, Pastoral Valley is more of a second
home than the type of accommodation
you’re probably used to on the road.
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Most people who stay at the
ecofarm live there for an
extended period of time and
typically volunteer their time
to help out with cooking or
other daily chores. There’s plenty
to do on this 42,000 square meter plot of
fertile fields and orchards, but of course
there’s plenty of time for relaxation, too! You
can spend your afternoons lounging in one of
the many gazebos around the central kitchen
or splashing in the river which constitutes
one of the borders of the farm’s land.
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Yanıklar Köyü, Fethiye
+90 252 633 66 27
[email protected]
www.pastoralvalley.com
As the manifesto of the ecofarm is based
on communal participation and communal
enjoyment of everyone’s labor, everything
grown or produced on the farm is free- this
includes coffee, tea, oranges and lemons,
and fresh Mediterranean food. You’ll see
the environmental focus everywhere at the
ecofarm, including the activities you’ll find on
offer. Spend your downtime horseback riding
through the stunning valley, participating in
one of the numerous handicrafts workshops
on offer, taking yoga classes, or going on a
nature trek.
Fethiye
LYCIAN WAY
91
Alaturka Tours & Cruises
Founded in
2004, Alaturka
was originally
a one-yacht company specialising in gulet
toursfromFethiyetoOlymposGradually,
as their customer base expanded and they
found increasing success as leaders in the
Mediterranean travel industry, they expanded
their company to offer more tours all over
the country.
Nowadays, Alaturka operates these tours in
allkindsofplacesfromIstanbultoDalyan
to Mount Nemrut. Still, their specialty
down along the coast is their gulet cruises.
You wont find a more fun loving and
knowledgeable team anywhere.
Travel from Fethiye to your next destination,
theever-popularOlymposorMarmaris,in
Karagozler Mahallesi,
Fevzi Cakmak Caddesi
Tombak Apart, No: 29/B Fethiye
+90 252 612 54 23
info@ alaturkacruises.com
www.alaturkacruises.com
style aboard one of the cabin cruises, or even
charteraprivateyacht.Ifyou’renotgoing
anywhere in particular but still want to get a
taste of sea life along this pristine coastline
that Turkey offers, then hop on board one of
these popular gullet trips. Sure to be a
highlight of your Turkey experience.
Alaturka can organise anything from your
hotel accommodation to your transfers to
your bus tickets. Not to mention Greek Ferry
connections. Check out their websites:
www.alaturkaturkey.com
Fethiye Guesthouse
The Fethiye Guesthouse is a small guesthouse
withafriendlyatmosphere.Itslocation
is one of the best in town, within a short
few minutes walking distance of the main
shopping, restaurant and entertainment
district, as well as many of the historical sites
and the main harbour.
Itisapeacefullittle
establishment with 15 rooms,
all of which include a private
bathroom, shower, as well as
air-conditioning. Dorm rooms
are also available. The crew are
very friendly and welcoming, and
the complimentary breakfast is delicious.
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1. Karagözler, Fevzi Çakmak Cad.
No:57 Fethiye
+90 252 612 27 11
[email protected]
www.fethiyeguesthouse.com
Fethiye Guesthouse also provides unique
in-house travel and tour information and will
be pleased to help you organise local tours
around Fethiye and surrounding areas, as well
as travel and accommodation arrangements
around Turkey. The qualified staff will be able
to tailor an itinerary that fits your time and
budget requirements.
Fethiye Guesthouse makes your stay in
Fethiye easy!
92
Ölüdeniz
LYCIAN WAY
Ölüdeniz
Ölüdeniz (meaning dead sea in Turkish, so-called for the
stillness of the waters at its much-photographed Blue
Lagoon), is a busy tourist town to the southeast of Fethiye
and easily reachable by dolmuş. While its neighbors Faralya
and Kabak will be more up your alley if you’re looking to
‘get away from it all’, Ölüdeniz is great for paragliding or
sailing over the Mediterranean- or even just stocking up on
supplies before you make your way to rougher territory.
Sugar Beach Club
Looking for a little place to unwind? Ready
to put your feet up for a day or two and
chill out? Sugar Beach is where you want
to be. Right on a sunny, sandy beach, the
blue waters of the Mediterranean are your
playground. After you’ve gone for a morning
swim, sprawl out on a sunbed and keep an
eye out for the resident loggerhead turtles
which can sometimes be spotted on the
shore.Ifyou’reinasportymood,getyour
basketball on or head to the
volleyball court.
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Ifyouwanttostayovernight,
choose from a bungalow,
a caravan parking spot (for
those of you on a roadtrip), or a tent pitch.
Housekeeping and laundry service are
available so you can lay back and enjoy
yourself- no more worrying about the
stink rising from those dirty socks in your
backpack.
for
bungalows
Ölüdeniz Cad. No. 20
+90 252 617 00 48
[email protected]
www.thesugarbeachclub.com
Sugar Beach also features a great kitchen
and restaurant where you can dine on
Mediterranean cuisine or hit up Happy Hour
(between 3 pm and 7 pm) for some creative
cocktails.Ifyou’reaftersomethingsimpler,
you can just head to the minimart right onsite and pick up a few supplies you forgot to
buy in Ölüdeniz.
Ölüdeniz
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LYCIAN WAY
Escape Adventures
Looking for an amazing extreme sports
experience in Ölüdeniz? Look no further. The
staff members at Escape Adventures know
and love their profession, and
they make safety their number
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one priority.
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Lykia World
+90 252 617 02 83
[email protected]
www.escape.com.tr
It’snormaltobenervouswhile
mentally preparing yourself to
go paragliding- floating thousands of feet
above the ground? Yeah, that can be scary.
Not to fear, though. The instructors at Escape
Adventures are selected with the utmost
care and are required to have five years of
experience and 2,000 flight hours under their
belts before signing on. Full insurance for
every passenger is a company policy- that
includes before, during, and after your flight.
So where do you paraglide from? Babadağ
(Father Mountain in English), which is the
highest altitude for tandem paragliding
flights... in the world. Escape Adventures
knows that they have a stellar reputation to
uphold, and they work hard to keep their
customers happy. They’ll gladly tailor the
experience to your preferences, and canfor example- book you in for a morning or
eveningflightforbetterpictures.Ifyou’re
here on honeymoon, they can even give you
cake and champagne midflight!
Escape Adventures doesn’t only operate
in the air, though. Check out their variety
of water sports, including power boating,
jet skis, water skis, parasailing, and
wakeboarding.
Sky Sports
Çarşı Cad. Tonoz Otel Altı
+90 252 617 05 11
[email protected]
www.skysports-turkey.com
your trip, as it’s highly
10% discount
COUNT
weather-dependent and
on photos
you don’t want to be left
and video
flightless if it’s raining!
DIS
Smack in the center of Ölüdeniz, Sky Sports
Paragliding offers a convenient alternative for
your flying experience. They’ll brief you on
everything you need to know pre-trip, and
their knowledgeable instructors can answer
any questions you have about the “how” or
the “what” of paragliding. Four flights run
daily, but as with any paragliding company,
definitely don’t book it for the last day of
10%
94
LYCIAN WAY
Kayaköy
Kayaköy
When you think of ghost towns, you might be picturing empty saloons in the American Wild
West. Kayaköy is every bit as dramatic and imposing as anything you can conjure up, and looms
over the modern village below with a haunting grandeur.
Kayaköy (previously known as Levissi) was a Greek town until 1923, when a population
exchange between Greece and Turkey sent its inhabitants westward. The Greek Macedonian
Muslimswhoweresettledintheirplacedidn’tstayforlong;theoriesaboundastowhy
(some a bit on the tin-foil-hat side, such as the one suggesting that the previous population
poisoned the town’s water supply upon departing), but the most likely explanation is that the
Macedonians were simply unused to such rough land and moved on when they found it difficult
to cultivate.
Years of sitting empty lend the collapsing buildings an air of melancholy poetry, helped along
by the 1957 earthquake which further leveled the town. Now it sits deserted and crumbling...
and a little bit creepy. Travelers with a taste for the bizarre and surprising can spend hours
exploring the site to their hearts’ content. Make sure to visit the two churches and the village
fountain;alsotakeintheMediterraneanviewfromthechapelatKayaköy’shighestpoint.
The entire area of the town has been declared a museum by the Turkish state. As such, an
entrancefeeischargedduringpeakhours;ifyouhaveanopenscheduleandwishtoavoidthis,
simply show up in the early morning or the evening and have the place to yourself... for free.
A small modern town has been built at the foot of the hills, packed full of restaurants and
wine houses despite its diminutive size. To reach Kayaköy, just hop on a dolmuş from
Fethiye or Ölü Deniz. Alternatively,
you can make the 8-kilometer
hike from Fethiye and
arrive on foot.
Kayaköy

Kaya Sanat Kampı
Kaya Sanat Kampı (in English, Kaya Art Camp)
is an alternative traveler’s paradise. Just
down the road from unmissable Kayaköy,
the Art Camp is a maze of
gazebos, greenery, and
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sculptures peeking out from
flower bushes and adorning
fountains.
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The camp offers weekly
workshops, and guests generally stay for
atleastoneofthem;assuch,it’slessofa
crash-for-the-night hostel setting and more
of a place to unpack for a bit, settle in, get
to know the artsy owners, and make friends
from all over the world. Check out their
schedule of workshops in advance and find
one which interests you- typical examples
include rhythm drumming, salsa dancing, and
ceramics. The workshops appeal to beginners
as well as advanced craftsmen. Don’t worry
if you don’t have experience- just bring your
enthusiasm! There’s something for everyone
in a creative state of mind, so have a wander
when you arrive and take a gander at the
theater, the mini climbing wall, and the relics
of past workshops which adorn the many
windingpathsthroughthecamp.Itwouldbe
difficult not to be inspired at Kaya.
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LYCIAN WAY
+90 533 763 62 73
[email protected]
www.sanatkampi.com
Three meals a day are served at the camp,
all made from organic produce. Most of it is
grown on-site, and agriculture enthusiasts
can take a peek out back toward the garden.
Ifyou’rearrivingonaSunday,twofree
shuttles are provided from Fethiye.
Otherwise,you’llfinditstraightforwardtoget
on the dolmuş and make your own way there.
Get ready for the artistic experience of a
lifetime, shared with like-minded people and
all taking place in one of the most stimulating
settings anywhere!
free pick-up
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from
After the morning workshop sessions, you
Fethiye
have time to relax. Hang out with fellow
artisans and travelers or go for a stroll
throughtown.Ifyou’refullofenergy,take
advantage of the bikes or the volleyball court
offered by the camp, or head out to one of
the local bars.
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Kayaköy
LYCIAN WAY

Village Garden
The laid-back and welcoming Village Garden
Pension, close to the main street of modern
Kayaköy, is a warm haven for travelers trying
to relax and recover from a hectic time in
Fethiye or Ölüdeniz. Family-owned and
operated, “cozy” and “comfortable” are both
keywords here. The homely style and smiley
owners just may make you feel that you’re
stepping back in time to a less stressful era
when people would drop by their neighbor’s
house for a cup of sugar.
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Enjoy the spacious rooms and the
simple, well-kept outdoor seating
Kınalı Mah. Gemiler Yolu
+90 533 767 28 35
[email protected]
www.villagegardenturkey.com
area (not to mention the magnificent views
ubiquitous in this part of Turkey!) and sip
someçaywhileyoupracticeyourTurkishwith
the locals wandering in and out to say hello
to the pension’s managers. There’s a blazing
fireplace in the winter, so don’t hesitate to
book a stay even in the off season!
Levissi Garden Restaurant & Wine House
Kayaköy
+90 533 247 59 34
[email protected]
www.levissigarden.com
The restaurant has a wide
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selection of delicious local
food- ask the staff for help
choosing the right wine
for your food, if you’re so
inclined. Levissi Wine House is pure class
and a visit here is the perfect way to feel as
though you’re returning to civilization after a
long day exploring the ruined city.
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Stylish Levissi Wine House occupies a
400-year old stone building on the main
cornerofmodernKayaköyvillage.Itwould
be difficult to describe the place without
superlatives- just for one, it boasts the largest
vineyards in southwestern Turkey, and an
absolutely stunning collection of fine wines,
the majority of them local. Don’t be in a big
hurrytochoose,though;theyofferfreewine
tasting, so feel free to have a sample or three
before making your final choice.
Kayaköy
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
Han Camping
Within the impressive atmosphere of
Kayaköy, soaked in the green, this camping
site is something very close to paradise . The
place has been constantly renewed in the last
years, and it has reached at the present very
high quality infrastructure. From bungalows
to camping, they are offering different
kind of accommodation, friendly
environment and great facilities.
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Rooms in the village house
and all the wooden houses
have en-suite bathrooms
(with shower and bath), air
conditioning. Wooden houses also have small
enjoyable terracces in front. The complex
includes a bar, a huge garden with fruit trees
and a swimming pool right in front of the
historical village. The distinctive point of Han
Camping is attention to details and you will
notice it.
Perfect place to relax, enjoy the nature and
the suggestive atmosphere of Kayaköy, at
the same time perfect starting point for all
sorts of excursions in the are. You can choose
to join some of the popular activities such
as the mandatory visit to the village, boat
trips, paragliding, diving, jeep safari, trekking
along the Lycian Way... or you can chill out
at their swimming pool enjoying the view.
Intheevening,thereisnothingbetterthan
a bonfire and some cold beers in company
of the other guests, far away from the noisy
nightlife of Ölüdeniz.
Kayaköy
+90 252 618 02 03
[email protected]
www.hancamping.com
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Ifyouneedanyotheradviceaboutwhatto
do in Fethiye or where to go next, ask the
owners, they are very helpful and more than
available to suggest you the best way to
enjoy Turkey.
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LYCIAN WAY
Faralya
Faralya
Tiny Faralya is just a dot on the map, but nature lovers will find its scenic beauty nothing short
ofenchanting.YoucanhikethroughthemountainsfromOvacıksome16kmnorthorsimply
take a dolmuş from Ölüdeniz- although the hairpin turns all along the cliffside coastal road may
leave you just as breathless as if you’d opted for the trek! Save some energy to navigate the
steep path down to Butterfly Valley, whose namesakes flutter in abundance around the rocks.
The roundtrip takes around 45 minutes, but don’t rush- the path can be dangerous, especially
when wet.

George House
arequirement;theirdelicious(andincluded
in the price!) breakfasts and dinners are
carb-laden to pump you up for another day
of trekking, or load up your plate with fresh
and tasty vegetables. They’ll do lunch too,
if you just can’t get enough- ask for a picnic
lunch to take with you on a trek up the road
or down to the valley, and they’ll pack it up
for you. Relax in the common room, strewn
with comfy pillows, or take a good book from
their shelves down to the swimming pool and
follow up a cool-down swim with a chapter
or two.
Airport transfers can be
arranged from Dalaman if
you’re in a hurry to get here
and want to skip the hike.
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There’s an option for everyone at George
House, and you can choose from bungalows,
tree houses, camping, or larger ensuite
rooms according to your budget and your
preferences.Ifyou’vehikedfromFethiyeor
Ölüdeniz, staying at George House is almost
Tel: +90 252 642 11 02
[email protected]
www.georgehousefaralya.com
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The first thing you’ll notice about George
House is the stunning view. Right smack at
the top of the path down to Butterfly Valley,
you can gaze down at the sea far below or
dizzy yourself staring up at the stars. Breezes
and, of course, butterflies are in abundance
here, without a mosquito to be found in high
season!
Kabak
LYCIAN WAY
99
Kabak
The dolmuş from Ölüdeniz or Fethiye will drop you off in Kabak village, from which point it’s up
to you to follow the red-and-white Lycian Way markers down into the spectacular valley below.
Ifyoulikebonfires,hammocks,flowers,andimpossiblyblueskies,you’llfeelrightathome
here. Spend your days chilling out with hikers and some of the most laid-back folks to be found
anywhere, and you’ll soon see why many people who stop by for a night end up still sunning
themselves on Kabak’s beach three weeks later. Make sure to walk or swim out to the cave a
short way out from the shore.
Olive Garden
OliveGarden’smottois“ourheart,your
home”, and the outgoing managers will make
certain that your stay lives up to these words.
It’sbuiltinthevillageproperatthetopof
thehill,sostayingatOliveGardenwillspare
you the walk down (and more exhaustingly,
up) the steep trails to the valley, and even
better, the views from the top are completely
unbeatable. You can wile away an entire day
watching gulls soaring overhead or allowing
yourself to be mesmerized by the impossibly
blue waters of the sea. Tranquility is a way of
life here.
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OliveGardenhasareputation
for providing, bar none, the
best food for miles around.
Their local and professional
chef’s passion for cooking is obvious in his
traditionalTurkishdishes;Fatih’snameisa
bywordfordeliciousnessintheseparts.In
fact, Turks as well as travelers come from far
and wide for a taste of his specialties. The
scents of spices and vegetables in the air will
keep your mouth watering all day.
Tel: +90 252 642 10 83
[email protected]
www.olivegardenkabak.com
The environmentally-friendly bungalows are
clean and comfortable, sleeping two people
each. Hot water is available all the time, so
wash off the grime with a shower and then
head out to the terrace lounge where you can
take in the panorama at sunset.
Ifyou’rearrivingfromDalaman,takethe
dolmuş to Kabak village and you’ll find signs
directing you toward the (very) brief path to
OliveGardenfromthecenter.
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Kabak
LYCIAN WAY
Latcho Camp
Latcho Camp is located on the headland
of Kabak Valley, lying back on the green
mountains and crossing its legs towards the
turquoise sea. Latcho is a camp respectful to
the unique Kabak Valley, its habitat and spirit.
Uzunyurt Köyü, Kabak
+90 252 652 11 70
[email protected]
www.latchocamp.com
The camp embraces the stars in
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the night with its crystal-clear sky.
As its guests say, it shines out with
super-delicious organic foods and
theuniquevalleyscene.Itisjusta
stone’s throw away from the beach and has
a live music stage which welcomes many
musicians and travellers. There are bungalows
andawidetentarea.Inthecamparea,you
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can put up with your own tent or one can
be provided for you. The bungalows are
furnished with a double bed, bed net,
cloth-shelf and a carpet. Daily cost per
person also includes breakfast and dinner.
Reflections Camping
The fourth camp established in Kabak
and still a favorite with seasonal travelers,
Reflections is a wonderfully laid-back and
relaxed niche in the sunlit and remotefeelingforestofthevalley.Itsemphasison
environmentally-friendly practices will win
over your ecological sympathies in a hurry.
The dedication to green living is more than
skin deep, and Reflections is one of the very
few camps in Kabak which sort their trash for
recycling.
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You’ll feel like a druid or an
artist in Reflections’ natural
bungalows and treehouses,
surrounded by crafts lovingly
created by the chilled-out staff

Uzunyurt Köyü, Kabak
+90 252 642 10 20
[email protected]
www.reflectionscamp.com
and past generations of travelers. Check out
the amazing fireplace, the mosaics, and the
wood sculptures found in nooks and crannies
all around you.
Ifyou’rereadytogetyourtanon,headtothe
beach- it’s less than a ten-minute walk down
to the cove.
Take the opportunity to solicit local
information from the staff- great English is
spoken here!
Xanthos - Letoon
LYCIAN WAY
101
Xanthos
Letoon’s sister-site and administrative capital, as
well as Lycia’s largest city, the ruins at Xanthos
are a must-see. The phrase ‘fiercely independent’
gets thrown around a lot with regard to
Mediterranean city-states, but the first-century
BC inhabitants of Xanthos take the cake. Several
centuries after a near-suicidal attempt to hold off
Persian forces, its inhabitants went a step further
and actually committed mass suicide rather than
see their city taken by the invading Romans.
Today, Xanthos is a sprawling site boasting pillar
tombs, basilicas, stone buildings, and ancient
roads aplenty, and a French team of excavators is
still hard at work unearthing more. An entrance
fee is charged for a stroll around the site’s
principal ruins, but you can explore the current
excavation area for free. Xanthos can be reached
via the well-signposted road from nearby Kınık.
Letoon
Letoon,ajointUNESCOWorldHeritageSitewithXanthos,isperhapsthemostromanticofthe
surviving Lycian sites. Temples devoted to the three most central deities in the Lycian religion
(Leto, from whom the complex owes its name, and her children Apollo and Artemis), rise eerily
from green and often flooded fields, deserted for 1400 years. Yet cult goddess-worship is just
one side to Letoon’s significance. Also discovered at the site was the Trilingual Stele, akin to
the Rosetta Stone, which contributed to the decipherment of the Lycian language. Letoon lies
approximately 5 km from the village of Kınık and can easily be reached on an afternoon jaunt
from Fethiye or Kaş. Detailed maps of the area are sold at the ticket booth, and may be worth
picking up if you plan to visit more out-of-the-way ruins.
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Pınara
LYCIAN WAY
Pınara
Pınara holds the intriguing distinction
of being one of the least-visited yet most
impressive archaeological sites along
Turkey’s southern coast. Six kilometers
from the main road, two of which snake
precariously up a dirt track from the
village of Minare, you’ll find yourself
facing an immense cliffside punctuated by
‘honeycomb’ tombs cut into the rock and
a well-preserved amphitheater ringed by
wildflowers. Visitors are free to wander as
they wish and discover for themselves the numerous graves and temples scattered between the
mountainandthevalley.Thesheerscopeofthesiteisacluetoitshistoricalimportance;Pınara
was one of the six largest Lycian cities until it was deserted in the 9th century AD. Bring your
camera for some spectacular panoramas taking in the architecture and the view!
Karadere
Özlen Restaurant & Pension

Most travelers visiting Letoön and Xanthos
move on to Kaş to crash for the night, but
if you’re keen to be one of the few staying
put a bit farther from the crowds, stop by
Özlen Pension in small and highly authentic
village of Karadere. The family-run restaurant
features organic food, much of
which is grown on-site (ask for a
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quick tour of their impressive
tomato and cucumber
greenhouses!). Take a walk to
the beach for a splash or just
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Bükceyiz Mah.
+90 252 677 76 35
www.ozlenpansiyon.com
hang out and practice your Turkish next to
the river. Situated right off the Lycian Way,
Özlen is also a calm and friendly place for
hikers to kick back for a bit and recover some
steam;campforfreeifyou’vebroughtyour
own tent.
Patara
LYCIAN WAY
103
Patara
Visitors to Patara are usually after two things: ruins and
beaches. Don’t be put off by its small size, because Patara
has both in abundance. Another of ancient Lycia’s six
largest cities, along with Xanthos and Pınara, it was the
civilization’sprimaryseaport;thisstrategicimportance
ledtoitsearlyannexationbyRomanforces.Inslightly
more recent history, Patara gained recognition for being
the birthplace of Nicholas of Myra (better known as Santa
Claus) around 300 AD, although the man in red spent most
of his life in nearby Demre. Take a look at the ancient theater and temple just outside the city,
and then go for a stroll on the beach- unless you’re bursting with energy, though, don’t try to
make it all the way to the end. At 18 uninterrupted kilometers, this is one of the longest beaches
in the world!
Akay Pension

Akay Pension is erupting with coloreverything from the furnishings to the
flowers adoring the terrace and dining area
will make you feel like you’ve stepped into a
bright dream world.
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Twelve rooms are available,
each of which features
a balcony and a private
bathroom. The facilities are
all cozy and tidy, but the real highlight of
the place is the friendly family who owns
and runs it. Ayşe is in charge of the cooking,
and can prepare all kinds of tasty Turkish
cuisine to your personal preferences. Even
better, breakfast is available all day long,
Merkez Patara
+90 242 843 50 55
[email protected]
www.pataraakaypension.com
a rarity in Turkey! That combined with the
tea, apple tea, and coffee which are all free
from morning to night will keep you planted
on the terrace for long hours, sipping and
snacking to your heart’s content.
Ifyou’reupforabitofpartyingandwant
to head out to check out the local nightlife,
don’t worry: reception is 24 hours and there’s
no lockout here.
104
Kaş
LYCIAN WAY
The mid-sized town of Kaş makes a perfect base for travelers looking to explore the treasures
of Mediterranean Turkey without succumbing to the tourist frenzy of the larger cities closer to
theregion’sairports.It’ssurgingwithcharacterandeverythingfrombudgetoptionstoluxury
shoppingareonofferhere.Inparticular,tryChez Evy (Terzi St. No:4) for some mouthwatering
French cuisine in an upscale setting. Most everything is within walking distance, so take an
afternoonor-whynot?-afullweekandinvestigatetheshopsandtheseasideonfoot.Ifyou’re
looking for some authentic Turkish souvenirs such as jewelry or handmade carpets, Kaş is
definitely the right place to be.
Ateş Pansiyon

The gregarious and helpful owners of Ateş
Pension, located on a picturesque little back
street, are always ready to help you practice
your Turkish or give you directions around
the city. The upstairs reception and common
area is stocked with absolutely
everything you could ask for in
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ahostel.Oneofthebiggest
book exchanges this side of
Antalya offers novels, travel
guides, and references books
in a variety of languages, and the
comfortable raised couch/chill-out spot has
numerous nargiles (water pipes) at your
disposal if you’re in the mood to partake in
this most Turkish of smoking traditions.
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Yeni Camii Cad. No. 3
+90 242 836 13 93
[email protected]
www.atespension.com
Ateş Pension has a great restaurant on the
terrace and long tables where you can chat
with your new and old friends- and you’ll get
a free drink on arrival to make you feel right
at home starting the minute you walk in the
front door. They’ve got alcohol at the bar as
well if you need a little something extra to
help you relax and unwind.
Ateş Pension is just minutes from the beach
and a short stroll from the bustling center of
town. The bus station isn’t much farther, but
you can call ahead and they’ll come pick you
up if you’ve got heavy bags and would prefer
not to make the walk.
Kaş
LYCIAN WAY
105
Kaş Camping
Perfect for hikers and budget travelers, Kaş
Camping occupies a perfect location on
the seafront, ideal for watching the sunset
over the water or taking advantage of the
many water sports arranged here. Pretty
little bungalows are scattered throughout
the gardens which decorate
the camp, or you can choose
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to pitch a tent if camping is
more your style. Furthermore,
RV parking areas are available
for those of you with your own
transportation.
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Hastane Cad. No. 3
+90 242 836 10 50
[email protected]
www.kascamping.com
Water and electricity are available throughout
the camp. Check out the bar and restaurant
right by the water and don’t forget to inquire
about sundiving, Kaş Camping’s own style
of diving!
Kuytu Köşe Pension
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Kuytu Köşe (name stands for “sheltered
corner”) is a hidden gem in the very center
of Kaş. Definetely one of the friendliest
places in Kaş which specializes in welcoming
guests with a big smile. Having the same
owners of Kuytu cafe (on the opposite
corner), staff is helpful in any kind
of questions. Newly renovated old
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house offers comfortable and cozy
accomodations with specious design
Merkez Mahallesi.
İlkokul St. No:1
+90 533 661 31 54
facebook.com/kuytukosepansiyon
rooms. You can also have
your breakfast(strongly
suggested) on the terrace
with the complete view of
the town.
Kuytu Cafe Bar
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Have you just passed by a colorful cafe full of
flowers and plants? Then we suggest you to
stop and go back! You are in Kuytu Cafe Bar,
the right place to enjoy some homemade
food or a drink. This place, very well
decorated, relaxed, shadowed,
green, offers breakfasts, lunches
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and dinner. The menu is suitable
for every taste: pastas, salads,
Turkish food, snacks and all sorts
Merkez Mah.
İlkokul St. No: 1 +90 242 836 24 88
facebook.com/KuytuCafeBar
ofbeverages.Occasionalacousticconcerts
areheldinitscozyatmosphere.Trykuytuçay
and enjoy the music...
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LYCIAN WAY
Kekova/ Üçağız
Üçağız is a pretty little fishing village close to Kaş and can be reached by dolmuş or on one of
the numerous boat tours offered from more popular destinations around the area. The name
means “three mouths” in Turkish, referring to the trio of rivers which flow into the sea here.
The Turkish government declared the town and surrounding region a protected area in early
1990.Atthetime,Üçağızwaslittle-visitedandevensmallerthanitwastoday,lackingeven
a passable road. While now, just over 20 years later, the road is definitely navigable by public
transportation or in your own rented car, it’s still a 19-kilometer precariously snaking passage
and you may be tempted to arrive the old-fashioned way: by boat. The government has since
relaxed the restrictions placed on diving and building in the area, but some limitations remain
and the town has fortunately not lost its quaint charm.
SeafoodloverswillwanttounpacktheirthingsandsettledowninÜçağız.Asafishingtown,
there are all the toothsome Mediterranean dishes you could hope for here and numerous fish
restaurantsneartheport.Onelocalfavorite,Hassan Restaurant, is run by (who else?) Hassan
himself, who speaks English and German. Frequented by sailors, this character-rich eatery
features momentos left behind by previous travelers and serves up all kinds of seafood as well
as a selection of grills. Keep an eye out for Hassan’s smiling face on posters around town!
A stroll around the hilly but kaleidoscopic town
center will reveal several Lycian tombs nestled
in between the ubiquitous old stone houses.
Cross your fingers that the current building
restrictions will continue for at least
several years to come... in
the meantime, hurry
here while the
small-town
vibe in
Üçağız
remains!
Simena
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LYCIAN WAY
Simena
MostvisitorstoKekovaandÜçağızcomewiththeprimarygoalofcheckingoutthespectacular
sunken city of Simena.OnceathrivingLyciancitycomposedofanislandandamainlandarea
(now known as Kaleköy, “castle village”), an earthquake in the 2nd century AD caused a large
section of the residential area to slide underwater. Now, 19 centuries later, it remains partly
submergedandcanbeexploredfromthesurfaceorunderwater;thankstospecialprotection
from the Turkish government since 1990, it remains exceedingly well-preserved and has not
been much damaged by the tourism boom of the last several decades.
The above-water ruins are no less fascinating and include a necropolis and numerous
sarcophagi, as well as Kaleköy’s namesake castle built by the Knights of Rhodes on the ancient
foundations, but if you’ve made the trip out here it’s probably the underwater part you’re
mainly looking to see. Check out the bizarre spectacle of staircases leading into the sea and
windows half above, half below the waves.
Likya Pension
Üçağız Köyü
+90 242 874 20 90
[email protected]
about the free boat trip you’re entitled to for
staying in Likya as well! After feeling the sea
breezes in your hair
and peering down into
the blue waters of the
Mediterranean for an
afternoon, you may
just decide to extend
your stay.
It’snearlyaone-stopshopforeverythingyou
might be after. The carpet shop next door
is affiliated with the pension, so stop by if
youwanttopickupsometextiles.Inquire
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ThischarmingpensionincentralÜçağızis
one of the few places to drop your bags in
town if you’re planning to stay the night here.
Covered in flowers and climbing vines, the
two-story building in which you’ll be staying
sometimes seems like it’s frequented more by
localsthanbyinternationaltravelers.Indeed,
there’s a homey feel here, and a stay at Likya
Pension will have you imagining that you’ve
lived in town all your life.
108
LYCIAN WAY
Demre / Andriake
Demre
Although he was born in the nearby village of Patara, Demre is where Santa Claus spent most
ofhislife.Ofcourse,thehistoricalfigurehadn’tyettakenonhismodernformasabearded,
present-delivering man dressed all in red and white, but the legend of Saint Nicholas is still very
much present in the town today. You’ll find the very cool 11-century Church of Saint Nicholas
here, which used to house his bones, although they were carried off by thieves on the hunt for
holy remains.
Andriake
Famous as he may be, Demre isn’t all about the local saint. Crowning the hill about the town is
an imposing ruin, Andriake, only recently discovered in 2009 and currently under excavation by
students from Akdeniz (Mediterranean) University.
The main building to be seen is a Roman synagogue dating back to about 500 AD, identified as
such by the Latin inscriptions as well as a marble slab depicting a menorah and other symbols
of Judaism. Besides that, the view is fantastic, particularly at dusk when you can watch the
sun sinking over the port to the west. Wildflowers grow in abundance. You’ll most likely have
the place to yourself, especially in early morning or late afternoon, as Andriake is not yet wellknown in guidebooks. Now is your chance to be one of the first visitors!
Theroadtothesiteispoorlysignposted,soyoumayhavetoaskaroundfordirections;asa
starting point, head toward the harbor from the center of town and look out for a left-hand turn
takingyouupthemountains.Ifyouhaveyourowntransportation,youcanparkinanopen
gravel lot just before the yellow sign announcing the path to the ruins.
Demre / Andriake
LYCIAN WAY
109
Andriake Camping & Cafe
Andriake Camping is perfect for travelers
keen to be among the first to check out the
Roman ruins visible up on the cliffside or
for Lycian Way hikers searching for a spot to
sling down their backpacks and sprawl out
for a while.
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Run for most of the year by
an animated and outgoing
friendly people, you’ll find
yourself deep in conversation
before you’ve even sat down
for a steaming cup of tea at the cafe picnic
table. The managers are always ready to help
you out with anything you need (such as
directions to the elusive ruins!), and they can
set you up with local activities including boat
tours to Kekova, fishing, sea kayaking, and
guided walking on the nearby Lycian Way,
among a plethora of other options.
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Andriake Harbor
+90 242 871 31 30
[email protected]
www.andriake.com
You can choose your preferred style of rustic
accommodationhere;takeyourpickofa
parking spot for your mobile home, a place to
pitch your own tent, or large and dorm-like,
jazzy, gypsy-style yurts provided by the camp.
Wireless internet is provided, alongside other
helpful services such as laundry, electricity
plugs to keep you wired in, board games, and
a great book exchange in several languages.
They can pick you up from Demre, Myra, or
Zeytin if you’d prefer not to find your own
way to the camp’s metaphorical doorstep:
you’ll arrive in style and all set to enjoy the
upbeat music coming from the restaurant’s
speakers, along with a nap or a stroll along
the harbor. And don’t worry, you won’t go
hungry. You can get breakfast here in the
mornings, a traditional Turkish spread made
fromalllocalingredients;abarbecuedinner
is prepared every evening with a varied and
delicious selection of meat and vegetables.
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LYCIAN WAY
Olympos
Olympos
YouprobablyrecognizethenameOlympos
from your school-days classes in Greek
and Roman mythology: the home of the
gods, it boasts a number of incredible
ruins, as you may well expect. You won’t be
disappointed by multifarious ancient sites
to be found here, although those in search
of solitude should take heed. Olympos is
major stop on southern Turkey’s beaten
tourist track, and you may be put off by
the crowds, especially in the peak summer
months from June to August.
Also see the Chimaera, named for the mythical fire-spitting monster (part-lion, part-goat,
part-snake) of Roman folklore. Today the term refers to the eternal flames which burn from the
mountain-sideaboveOlympos.You’llbeamazedbytheuniquenaturalphenomenonofthe
fires- caused by methane gas leaking out from the earth, they will reignite themselves if you
attempt to put one out. Don’t forget to bring a flashlight with you on the walk up- you’ll want to
go at night for maximum effect, and some of the trails can be treacherous in the dark.
AsthetownofOlymposisundergovernmentprotectionwhichseverelylimitsmodern
construction, facilities are limited. Fortunately, the owners of the many pensions here recognize
this and will cater for most of your needs, including food and alcohol. There’s an ATM and a
small supermarket, but plan ahead by bringing the majority of the supplies you’ll need from Kaş
or Antalya.
Take a bus from Antalya (some 70 kilometers to the north) or south from Kumluca or Kaş. The
largerbuseswon’ttakeyouallthewaydowntoOlymposproperandwillinsteadleaveyou
roughly 10 kilometers outside of town at a junction featuring a great view and a cafe. Dolmuşes
from this point are frequent, so you shouldn’t have any trouble completing the trip into the
valley.
Olympos
111
LYCIAN WAY
Kadir’s Tree Houses
Have you ever stayed in a tree house? Well,
wesuggestyoutotryitatthisplace.On
pine trees, they accommodate from 1 up
to 5 people each. Don’t expect an en-suite
toiletupthere.Ifyouarelookingformore
comfort, you can still opt for the bungalows
Olympos
+90 242 892 12 50
[email protected]
www.kadirstreehouses.com
(with or without air-conditioning) or dorms.
Obviouslyyoucanalsosetupyourowntent.
This place has expanded quite surprisingly
during six years and they now have 100
bungalows, 15 cabins, 10 dorms and camping
ground. Breakfast and dinner is included in
the price of night stay. The breakfast is served
in five different options while dinner consists
of a buffet with five-six different dishes. Kadir
is mainly vegetarian or with chicken and red
meat is served only two times in a week.
InKadiryou’llfindthreebarswithplentyof
ares to relax and places to organize bonfires
outside, a seafood restaurant and other
facilities (laundry, volley ball, tennis tables).
You can also rent a scooter or a bike or
arrange with the travel agency activities such
as scuba diving, rock climbing, bike tours, sea
kayaking, hiking, cable car tour, boat trips
and many others.
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This place really makes you feel as if you
arelostinnowhere’sland.Onlydifference
from the island of Robinson Crusoe is that
your company might be quite numerous.
The ground of the camp can host up to 300
people at the same time! The perfect place if
you are looking for travel mates for the rest
of your trip.
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LYCIAN WAY
Olympos

Bayram’s Tree House
buffet breakfast every morning to help you
get some caffeine and carbs in your system
to recover from last night. Chill in a hammock
while you eat and then challenge someone
to a game of that old Turkish favorite,
backgammon.Ormaybenargileismoreyour
style;Bayram’swillsupplyyouwithawater
pipe so you can relax and puff away all day
long in the orange grove.
low season
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Dorms and private bungalows with ensuite
bathrooms are both offered here- included
in the price are both dinner and a massive
+90 242 892 12 43
[email protected]
www.bayrams.com
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Leisure is a way of life at this chilled-out to
themaxdive.InOlympos,“Bayram’s”has
pretty much become a synonym for... well,
everything from “fun” to “relaxation” to
“partying.” You’re sure to find hordes of likeminded travelers congregating here for a chat
or a beer, and everyone from the outgoing
international bar staff to visitors from other
camps drawn by the bouncy music will be
sprawled out on the pillow-strewn platforms
or trading travel stories across the courtyard’s
many picnic tables until the early hours of the
morning. The motto in camp is “come for a
day, stay for a week”... and despite your bestlaid plans, you probably will.
high season
Bayram’s isn’t just about lazing around in
the sun with a cold Efes, though. They do
trips to the eternal flame every night and
can hook you up with some even more
adventurous activities like rock jumping and
kayaking if you’re so inclined. There’s also an
in-house travel agency to help you plan your
nextstop;theydocruisesaswell,soifyou
want to get up close and personal with the
Mediterranean, take a look.
Also offered are a laundry service, a book
exchange, safe-deposit boxes to store your
valuables, and international phone calls.
Olympos
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LYCIAN WAY

Sheriff Pension
Sheriff (sometimes seen as
the Turkish transliteration,
Şerif ) is a little piece of heaven
nestled in the valley, with a
laid-back vibe competing with
what feels like an everpresent
party waiting to burst through. You’ll sleep
in a charming bungalow between groves
of orange and pomegranate trees, feeling
like a figure from some mythical story- until
you stroll out to to the outdoor common
area ringed with greenery and full of other
travelers, and then you’ll just want to put
your party hat on and make some new
buddies.
magicofOlympos.They’dbemorethan
happy to sit down with you and tell you
about the region (particularly the Chimaera
and the Lycian Way), or even just to share
stories about the more than twenty years
they’ve been operating. At night, things
heat up around the bar with world music in
the summer and the pleasant hum of Efesfueled conversation. When you look up at
the stars and listen to the rhythmic beat of
international bands, you’ll want nothing more
than to stay here forever.
Discounts are available for children under
the age of 12, and there are frequent outings
after seven pm.
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passionate the staff at Şerif is about the
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Each of the forty bungalows has a shower,
bathroom, and the extremely important air
conditioning to keep you cool in the hot
summermonths;ifyou’reonabudget,spring
for one of the seven slightly more rustic
rooms without ensuite facilities.
Olympos
+90 242 892 13 01
[email protected]
www.olympospansiyon.com
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Olympos
LYCIAN WAY
Eski Yeni
PlentyofpeoplecometoOlymposwithpartying
on the mind, as the place ís reputation most
definitely precedes it.
Ifyou’reamongtheirnumber,it’shardtotopthe
fun,hipEskiYeni(meaning“OldNew”inTurkish).
It’sclosedinthewintermonths,butinsummer,
there’s pretty much a nonstop party happening
here, with live concerts featuring the hottest
alternative bands. But wait, it gets better- there’s
no entrance fee, ever. Just grab some friends, get
adrink,andenjoythemusicinthegarden.One
Kiliseyakası No:116
Olympos/Kumluca
+90 242 892 13 42
[email protected]
www.eskiyeni.com.tr
ofthefirstthingsyou’llnoticeaboutOlymposis
that it’s a sprawling place. Fortunately, the owners
of Eski Yeni have planned ahead for this, and now
offer shuttles from the various pensions.
Eski Yeni Holiday Houses
Eski Yeni is a bit far from the sprawling crowd
ofOlympos’scenter,thoughmostlypreferedby
nature lovers. the facility has spread over 4 acres
of land in which there are more then 700 trees.
This quite, peaceful and friendly pension also has
a swimming pool, playground for
kids, parking area and a restaurant.
Many types of accomodation
options (adobe houses, wooden
houses and big tents) all include
bathrooms, breakfast and dinner.
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Kiliseyakası No:116
Olympos/Kumluca
+90 242 892 13 41
[email protected]
www.eskiyenitatilevi.com
Although its relaxing and quite atmosphere,
pension is just next door to Eski Yeni Bar, where
you can find one of the craziest dancing night with
live music.
Cafe Cactus and Camping
Itnevertakesanyonelongtogetintothechilledout yet party-friendly and nature-oriented vibe
omnipresentinOlympos;CafeCactusembracesall
three aspects of this unique place to their fullest
extent.It’soneofthefewplaceshereyoucan
pitch your own tent- they have raised wooden
platforms for the purpose so you won’t run the
risk of getting wet. Breakfast and
a
tasty, massive dinner are included
in the price.
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The main attraction of Cafe
Cactus, though, is the live music,
Yazır Köyü Olympos Mevkii
+90 242 892 19 55
[email protected]
www.olymposcactus.com
primarily reggae, funk, and pop. All it will take
for you to kick off your shoes and rearrange your
itinerary so you can stay here longer is one night
sitting under the lemon trees, rocking out to the
beats, and sipping an ice-cold beer from the bar.
Try it for yourself!
Kumluca/Adrasan
LYCIAN WAY
115
Kumluca / Adrasan
12 kilometers beyond the wealthy town of Kumluca, you’ll come to the a pretty bay- this
is Adrasan, a perfect place to stop for the afternoon and take in the view from the beach.
Development is quite slow here due to the government protection over the entire park region,
but it is proceeding despite the regulations and you can find a number of modern buildings
catering to the traveler crowd here.
Street Cafe & Pension
The Street Cafe occupies a fantastic location
on the north end of Adrasan Bay, great for
watching the sun set and the moon rise. This
is absolutely the place to be for enjoying life’s
simple pleasures- sun, sand, and sea. The
welcoming managers (Ramazan, Birgit, and
their son Timur) speak English, Turkish, and
German.
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Free
welcomedrink
Book a bungalow here if you
fancy a longer stay- you can get
a small one designed for 2-4 people, or a
larger one which sleeps up to eight if you’re
traveling in a group. Escape the heat in
your air-conditioned room before heading
outside again in the cool of twilight! Being
a family-oriented type of place, the Street
Deniz Mah. Deniz Cad.
+90 242 883 13 54
[email protected]
www.streetcafe-adrasan.de
Cafe and Pension offers all kinds of facilities
you won’t find elsewhere and should be your
first choice if you have young ones with you.
Everything from baby monitors to cribs can
be had- all you have to do is ask.
You can tell by the name that this is one place
which takes its food seriously. Restaurant by
day and bar by night, you’ll discover all sorts
of local dishes and drinks here. Take care to
try the cheesecake and cappucinos, both
house specialties.
Ask about the nearby vegetable and spice
market which takes place on Sundays!
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LYCIAN WAY
Kumluca/Adrasan
Jungle Bells
The offer of activities is really stunning.
Among the pre-organized ones, tours to
Adrasan,Olympos,KekovaandtheSunken
City. You can also join the trips to the “eternal
flames” (fires produced by the gas boiling up
from the mountain, which has been burning
for over 100 years), fishing trip, canyoning
tours (not available in winter) or club
crawling! The options are many, just follow
yourmood!Ifyouareinabig
ISCOU group you can also create your
own itinerary for a full day of
adventures.
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Here you can choose among several
accommodations options: tree houses,
bungalows, dorms or tent and caravan sites.
Breakfast and dinner are included in the price
for those staying in the houses, bungalows
and dorms. For any other needs, Jungle Bar
is open for snacks and drinks (both alcoholic
and non).
Adrasan beach
+90 242 883 14 24
[email protected]
www.junglebellshostel.com
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Jungle Bells Hostel, open all year long, has
an alternative aura and unique position, with
nature’s great green and sea’s perfect blue
seen behind the beach way (only 7 minutes
away). The hostel gives services as guidance
for activities and trip, free wi-fi connection
in community areas, transfer to Airport, Bus
station and nearest town centers, free private
beach, sun beds and umbrellas, free laundry
service. Pets are also welcome to the camp.
Staff is extremely friendly and
helpful, in case you need advices or
assistance during your stay.
Kaleiçi
ANTALYA
117
Kaleiçi / Antalya
The 2200 year old city of Antalya, founded by the Greeks and originally known as Attalia, is
nowadays one of the largest ports on Turkey’s southern coast. Many travelers to the region
either start or end their Mediterranean explorations here, and it has become hugely important
onTurkey’stourismscene;millionsofpeoplevisiteveryyear.Grabamapandcheckoutthe
Aspendos Theater, still standing from Roman times, as well as the impressive archaeology
museum, the best in the area.
Don’t miss Kaleiçi (which roughly translates to “inside the castle”). Passing through the
historical Hadrian’s Gate, you can go for a leisurely stroll down cobbled streets taking you past
ancientbuildingsandruins;theareaisundergovernmentprotection,andeffortsarebeing
takentopreservetheclassicalelementspresentinAntalya’solddistrict.Kaleiçimayremind
youofwesternEurope’soldtowns,withitsnarrowalleysandimposingstonewalls.Ifyouare
looking for some fun nights, check-out Simurg Cafe&Bar (Tabakhane st. no:7) or for more live
events Simurg Temple (Hamam St. no:2).
Sabah Pansiyon
Sabah Pension is the first family-owned
guesthouse in the whole of the old city,
so they have both the experience and the
welcoming vibe to make you feel right at
home. Nearly 25 years old, Sabah has had
plenty of time to get everything in order- and
they have, as evidenced by the hordes of
guidebooks and travelers who recommend
thisplacewithoutspokenenthusiasm.It’s
more than just a hostel- it’s a meeting point
for backpackers of all nationalities.
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With small dorms, a breezy
garden, a restaurant and bar,
and a swimming pool, you’ll
find everything you need here.
Kaleiçi Kılınçaslan Mh.
Hesapcı St. No. 60
+90 242 247 53 45
[email protected]
www.sabahpansiyon.com
Ofcourse,theownersarereadytohelpyou
organize tours, airport transfers, and activities
if you like. The pension is highly Englishfriendly, with fluent staff and daily English
newspapers available for your perusal if you
want to keep up with the news from home
(for more personal updates, take advantage
of the wi-fi).
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MERSİN
Kızkalesi
OnceanancientAnatoliancityknownasCorycus
(sometimes spelled Korykos), Kızkalesi is a
somewhat foreboding, though undoubtedly
beautiful, castle sitting on a tiny island close to
shore. The name, which means “Maiden’s Castle”
in English, refers to a legend in which a girl
was cursed by an evil magician and sent by her
father to live in this isolated castle in a desperate
attempttopreventtheenchantmentfromcomingtrue.Itturnsout,however,thattheisland
on which it sits used to be connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land, so- gasp- the
legend probably had no basis in fact.
A group of nearby caves are well worth checking out- known as
the Heaven and Hell, these interconnected passages go more
than 20 meters underground. Stop for a visit at the little church
built by Saint Paulus in antiquity.
30 kilometers north of Silifke lies another unmissable
destination. Uzuncaburc, as it is now known, consists of an
expanse of breathtaking ruins, remarkably well-preserved.
The height of the city’s prominence lasted from Roman
times through the Byzantine era, and you can see remnants
of both in the theater, grave markers, and temple devoted
to Zeus.
The Adam Rocks, located in Devil Valley (roughly 8
kilometers distant from Kızkalesi), probably date back to the
Roman era. The carved figures display men, women, and
children in a visibly antiquated style.
Getting to Kızkalesi is generally a breeze, with frequent
dolmuşes running from Silifke and the more distant Mersin
(60 kilometers away).
Kızkalesi
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MERSİN
Rain Hotel
The service is definitely a cut above most
budget accommodation here- the rooms are
cleaned daily, and you can get room service
24 hours a day, including alcoholic drinks. You
can arrange to have your laundry done, and
the front desk can hold onto valuable items
to give you some peace of mind.
33790 Kızkalesi - Mersin
+90 324 523 27 82
[email protected]
www.rainhotel.com
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Every traveler’s hub needs
a quiet place to sit and plan
out your next move. Rain’s
comes in the form of a pleasant
cafe on a parallel street serving
hot beverages and local dishes, great for
satisfying your appetite and working out your
where-toatthesametime.Ifyouprefernot
to figure it all out alone, head next door to
Oztop’sRainTravelAgency,includingoutings
to the caves, Uzuncaburc, the Adam Rocks,
andmore.Inaddition
to all the great daytrips in the area, they offer
services such as transfers, flight reservations,
and hotel bookings. They also offer a 10%
discount to travelers who show up with a
copy of Hike East. You can find their website
at www.oztoprain.com.
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Rain Hotel is a top pick for accommodation
inKızkalesi.Openedin1997,theyhave18
rooms with a total of 40 beds, each featuring
stylish wooden architecture and a clean,
airy ambience. Telephones, showers, and
wi-fi come standard, as well as the slightly
more unusual feature of orthopedic beds,
a traveler’s best friend. Rain is open year
round and has split air conditioning so you
can crank up the AC in the summer and
blastsomeheatinthewinter;there’sevena
fireplace where you can toast your hands.
120
Ankara
Turkey’s capital city since the
early 1920s, Ankara is also
the country’s second
largest metropolis
after İstanbul. You
may have been told
to steer clear and
spend your travel
time elsewhere,
butdon’tbemisled;
Ankara’s reputation for
being boring is greatly
overstated and both partygoers and cultural history
buffs will find plenty to occupy
them.Ontopofthat,it’sanattractive
city;manyoftheshopsandrestaurants
in central Ulus are built in reconstructed
buildings from time gone by. You’ll find
leather, spices, and other goods for sale in its
winding alleys.
The Atatürk memorial, Anıtkabir, features
huge collections of memorabilia belonging
to Turkey’s most celebrated leader and is
well worth a visit even if you aren’t typically
a museum enthusiast. Take in his extensive
sword collection, his impressive library,
several of his cars, and even his favorite dog
(taxidermied, of course).
You can easily spend a day or three visiting
Ankara’s many museums, from the METU
Science and Technology
Museum to the Museum of
Anatolian Civilizations.If
monumental architecture
is more your thing, head
up to Ulus and explore
the twisting alleys of
Ankara’s hilltop castle,
filled with small shops
and surprises.
Ifyou’reinsearchofa
good cafe or a stiffer drink,
you’ll want to head to the central
district of Kızılay. Bars and teahouses
abound here, and many locations
transformintoboomingclubsafterdark.In
particular, check out Nefes Bar located at
Yenişehir Postanesi Karşısı (+90 312 433 02
80), a spacious spot with a restaurant and live
music nearly every night.
Being central in terms of both geographical
location and political importance, Ankara
is easy to reach from anywhere in the
country and makes a great hub for further
explorations of Turkey and beyond. Arriving
by air, you’ll come in 28 kilometers northwest
ofthecityproper.Ifbusesaremoreyour
style, you’ll find yourself at the terminal
locally known as AŞTİ, connected to the
central districts by a metro line.
Ankara
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Deeps Hostel
Smack in the middle of Ankara and only
five minutes from the city center and right
next to Kolej Metro Station, Deeps is the
city’s first backpacker-style hostel. The walls
are brightly-painted and the atmosphere is
welcoming, the whole place geared towards
budget travelers and world-wandering
students. You’re sure to be among
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They have private rooms for up
to four people, all with shared
bathrooms, or you can opt for a bed in one
of the six or eight-person mixed dormitories.
There’s a pretty garden, a lounge area, and a
common kitchen well-stocked with utensils
Ataç 2 St. No:46 - Kızılay
+90 312 213 63 38
[email protected]
www.deepshostelankara.com
andappliances.Ifyoustaylongerthanfive
days, you can use the laundry facilities for
free!
Being a city hostel, don’t expect to have
silent nights. The traffic noise is part of the
city life!
Nefes Bar
Nefes is a popular venue with young people,
not only at night but also any time hunger
strikes. With an outside patio attached to the
well-known restaurant, you’ll find Nefes Bar
buzzing with activity any time you happen to
stop by. The grills are particularly excellent and
the free roka salads which come with them are
no less delicious. Try one of their interesting
ice-cream mix, with liquors and fresh fruit.
At night, the alcohol comes out and locals
throng to the Nefes Bar performance hall,
hosting all sorts of fun shows including local
Mithatpaşa Cad. Tüp Geçit Yanı
No: 25/A
(Yenişehir Postanesi Karşısı)
Kızılay
+90 312 433 02 80
www.nefesbar.com
rock bands, alternative music, and cover bands.
You can check out the schedule of events (as
well as a menu) online to choose what best fits
your taste: reggae, blues, rock&roll, Latin, Greek,
Balkan or..?
122
Cappadocia
Cappadocia
A visit to Cappadocia, situated in the heart of Anatolia, may be the closest any of us will ever
get to being on the moon. The region’s famous fairy chimneys stretch for miles in every
direction, looking like something out of the more mythical side of Turkey’s history. You may be
startled and bemused by the sight of all these spooky and highly memorable formations at first,
but a few days in the territory will make you feel like a regular cave-dweller yourself.
The unusual “earth architecture” initially appears to be folkloric, perhaps created by some
ancientGreekgod.Inreality,Cappadocia’sstrangeformationsaretheresultofvolcanicactivity
from three local peaks (Erciyes, Hasan, and Melendiz), which spread the soft material called
tuff across the landscape approximately 30 million years ago. The unique combination of tuff
and volcanic ash, along with millennia of erosion by wind and water left behind the stunning
chimneys you can see today. Equally mind-blowing are the innumerable caves cut into the rock
by early inhabitants which are still used today for everything from houses to restaurants to
storerooms;planatriptoGöremeifyou’rekeenonseeingthesedwellingsstillincommonuse.
Ifyou’recuriousaboutthehistoricalinhabitantsofthearea,definitelymakeavisittothe
underground cities a priority. Here, you’ll find a striking early religious influence, created
during the Roman period when Christians attempting to escape government persecution
took shelter under the earth. They built houses and cathedrals on plans featuring up to eight
subterranean stories and kilometer upon kilometer of tunnels.
Although frequent buses and dolmuşes run between the main sites of tourist interest here, the
roadsareoftenpoorqualityandthesitesarequitespreadout.Ifyou’reonatightscheduleand
money isn’t an obstacle, you might want to look into renting a car for the duration of your stay
in Cappadocia.
CAPPADOCIA
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CAPPADOCIA
Göreme
The small but vibrant town of Göreme makes an excellent base for seeing the highlights of
Cappadocia. A 30-minute bus trip from the much larger Nevşehir, Göreme is tiny enough that
you won’t get lost and in all likelihood your hostel will be mere steps from the very central
otogar. Don’t let its small size deceive you, though! Göreme’s packed with things to see and do,
and is the only place in Cappadocia where locals still live in the dug-out caves at the base of the
fairy chimneys.
Cappadocia is as scenic as it comes, and hikers will be in paradise. Be sure not to miss the
gorgeous treks through Pigeon Valley and Rose Valley, both of which guarantee panoramas
you’llnotsoonforget;pickupafreemapfromthebusstation,asthetrailsaresometimes
poorly signposted.
By the time you end up in Göreme, you’ll probably have heard travelers from all over raving
about the Open-Air Museum,ashortwalkfromthecitycenter.Itshauntingcavesandtowering
chimneys are more than fascinating enough by themselves, but the Dark Church inside is also
well worth checking out.
Ifit’spartyingyou’reafter,headtoFat Boy’s Bar & Restaurant, 30 seconds’ walk from the
otogar, for a lively game of pool and a few cold glasses of Efes. You’ll find plenty of thirsty locals
and travelers alike at this chilled-out hangout.
Inparticular,trySilk Road Restaurant ( Müze Caddesi ) for some traditionally cooked local
tastes. A note of caution to Göreme-bound travelers: the recent tourism boom here has taken
a serious toll on the region’s ecosystems. Water shortages are common, and trash can be seen
all too often on the otherwise
majestic lookout points. Please
do your best to ensure that
your visit not only is amazing
for you but also leaves the
town just as spectacular for
the next people to come
along!
Cappadocia
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Holiday Cave Hotel
Orta Mah. Masat St. - Göreme
+90 384 271 25 55
[email protected]
www.holidaycave.com
horse rides or sightseeing tours if you’re
feeling adventurous. Also take a gander at
the specials advertised on-line as well as
in-house- often you’ll be able to score a free
Turkish coffee or other treats.
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Don’t forget to ask the staff what’s in season
fromthegardenoutback!Infact,the
employees at Holiday Cave are a big part of
the place’s charm, and a chat with them is
just as good a way to spend the afternoon
as any. They can also help you to arrange
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Holiday Cave has something for everyone,
from jacuzzi-equipped suites to twenty-one
clean and simple private rooms to two mixed
dorm rooms, all provided with the allimportant air conditioning. Shampoo, soap,
towels, slippers, and hair dryers can also be
supplied if you find you’ve forgotten yours.
Although it’s only a short walk from the
otogar, Holiday Cave feels far away from the
bustleofGöreme’smainstreets;it’sanideal
place to stay if you’re looking for a game of
pool in the common room, a leisurely swim,
or just a place to relax with a drink from the
bar.
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Cappadocia
Katpatuka Tour
The Katpatuka partners are a unique blend
of 3 native Anatolian men and an Australian
woman with tourism and management
expertise. They offer exclusive services for
the discerning traveller, group tours for those
who desire an informal experience, as
well as brief tours for time limited
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As Katpatuka is based on
Cappadocia, they can offer every
possible activity from horseback riding
to Balloon tours, from amazing valleys to
Turgut Özal Street,
(Bus Station)No:11- Göreme
+ 90 384 271 27 89
[email protected]
www.katpatukatour.com
hidden churches with different budget
option. Although they are specialized about
Cappadocia, they have interesting itineraries
throughoutTurkeyincluding;Pamukkale,
Ephesus, Troy, Nemrut and even İstanbul.
Andromeda Tours
Orta Mah. Adnan Kahveci Cad.
No:12 – Göreme
+90 384 271 21 00
[email protected]
www.andromedatour.com
select accommodation that best suits you.
They do not only book your Turkey tours but
also they can provide you with assistance
of local suggestions, hotel bookings, flight
tickets, car rentals and transfers.
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Andromeda Tour & Travel Service has been
operating in the travel business since 2005,
as a specialist handling agent in Turkey. They
have been awarded by the Turkish Ministry
of Tourism and Turkish Travel Agencies
Associations recently for their high quality
of service, but fortunately high quality
doesn’t come with high budgets for them.
Andromeda is specialized in Tailor Made
Tours, whatever you want from your trip they
can use their detailed knowledge to plan
your ideal itinerary. The great thing about
Tailor Made Tours is that your complete trip is
designed around your interests and budget,
so you can explore at your own pace and
Cappadocia
Muskara Cave Hotel
Idealforadventurers,MuskaraCaveHotel
is located just outside Göreme, in direct
proximitytoaballoonlauncharea.Ifyou
like peace and quiet, this is the place to be
rather than the somewhat over-touristed
town center. And no need to worry about
how to get here, as they offer free shuttle
transfers from any bus station in
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Cappadocia, 24 hours a day.
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The spacious, comfortable
rooms will be a welcome sight
after hours on a cramped bus,
but don’t spend too much time there. The
terraces are unmissable (a description which
can safely be applied to the tasty food served
127

Çavuşin Köyü, Avanos
(1 km to Göreme)
+90 384 532 72 25
[email protected]
www.muskaracavehotel.com
at the terrace restaurant as well!) and there’s
a tour desk to make sure you don’t get bored
during your stay- they can help you out with
trekking routes, cultural nights, and more.
Halil Pension

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Yukarı Mahalle
Amaç St. No: 35
Güzelyurt / Aksaray
+90 382 451 27 07
[email protected]
www.halilspension.com
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A lot of pensions claim that their guests
are treated like close relatives, but Halil’s
takes it to another level entirely- the
accommodations are located inside the
family’s home. Close to the center of the
town, it’s incredibly convenient
for exploring Güzelyurt, but
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you may find yourself wanting
to just hang out in the bright
kitchen with the owners
instead. You’ll never get sick of
their famous restaurant, utilizing vegetables
grown in the outdoor garden and lovingly
prepared each day- partake in a shared
meal with your hosts. The building itself is
spotless and bright, more so than you might
be expecting from a 140-year old Greek
house.Ifyou’retoofull
to move after one of
the generous meals,
consider just sprawling
out and taking in the
view of the Güzelyurt
lake.
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Nemrut
Mount Nemrut
Mount Nemrut (Nemrut Dağı in Turkish) is among Turkey’s most iconic and well-known
destinations. You may have seen images of the gigantic stone heads scattered across the area
ontouristbrochuresorbooksconcerningancientcivilizations;evenifyouhaven’t,you’resure
to find the site breathtaking and a sure highlight of your trip to Turkey.
Built by slaves in the Kingdom of Commagene, the massive statues which now adorn the
summit were commissioned by King Antiochus in the first century BC as a grandiose and
ultimately narcissistic tribute to... himself. The complex served as a tomb and temple sanctuary,
and many of the decapitated heads which lie strewn across the mountain represent Greek gods
or the rulers of the kingdom (including, of course, Antiochus). The eastern temple still stands as
well,alongwithanaltarmadeofsandstoneandusedforritualsacrifice.Interestingly,themarks
on the stone heads, particularly the noses, are seemingly uniform and suggest the destructive
work of later iconoclasts.
Many people take pains to arrive at the peak of Mount Nemrut at dawn, in order to see the ruins
bythelightoftherisingsun.It’satrulyimpressivesight,butgoinglaterinthedaywillspare
you the crowds as well as the necessity of waking up well before first light in order to make it
totherelativelyremotesitebydaybreak.Ifyou’dprefertostayovernight,trytheGüneş Hotel,
close to the summit and relatively cheap.
NumeroustourstothemountainareavailableoutofİstanbulornearercitiessuchasMalatya;
alternately, take a dolmuş or rent your own car. Regardless of how you get there, you’ll need to
walk the last half kilometer on your own.
Take note: Mount Nemrut can only be visited from March to October due to its high
altitude and the heavy snows which fall here in the winters.
Nemrut
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Old Kahta
OnthewayfromNemruttoAdiyanman,stopbyavillagecalledEskiKahta(OldKahta),before
gettingtoKahtatown.Theoldvillagewasoncethecapitalofthedistrict;withanamazingbut
(probably still) under renovation, Kahta Yeni Kale, a castle build by Memlüks as a palace and
thenconvertedtoacastlebySelçuks.Theareaisalsofullofhistoricalbrigdesonthewayand
unexplored ruins.
Cafe Romee
Eski Kahta, Kahta,
Adıyaman Region.
+90212 594 28 02
[email protected]
www.caferomee.com
AskforMenengiçKahvesi,akindofcoffewith
milk, done from wild pistache trees , special
to the area.
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Although it is not much to do except visiting
the castle and old bridges around, in this
little village, you can have a break with
original Eastern-Turkey village life way far
from tourism. This cafe restaurant and small
pension all combined inside an old village
house and a nice small garden is your only
choice, but definetely not a bad one. .With
wi-fi and air conditionn in the rooms, basic
and cheap, with breakfast included in the
price.
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Diyarbakır
Despite not being in the top-list of touristic destinations, this city is extremely interesting from
the historical and architectural point of view.Diyarbakır area’s history goes back to the stone
age. The remains of the Neolithic settlements are to be found in the Diyarbakir Museum. The city
was then occupied by many different civilizations among which the Assyrians, the Seleucids, the
Persians,theRomansandofcoursetheOttomans.
The city is still surrounded by the old city walls, which were restored by the Romans. Recently,
a very well-kept park has been developed along the walls, allowing a very pleasant walk for
the tourists. The four gates which constituted the only entrances to the city are also still intact:
Dağkapı, Mardinkapı, Urfakapı, ve Yenikapı. Also the towers are worth to see, particularly Nur
Burcu, Yedi Kardeş Burcu and Malikşah Burcu. The İç Kale ( inside castle), which is unfortunately
under constant reconstruction, you can still have a great view on the Tigris.
Ifyouhaveonlyaday,wesuggestyouatleastavisittoUlu Camii, very central, the Orthodox
Syrian Christian Meyrem Ana Kilesi (Church of the Virgin Mary) and the Armenian Surpağab
Kilisesi. Not to be missed is also the Mala Dengbeja, very close to Meyrem Ana Kilesi, meeting
place of traditional singers-storytellers of the area: sit with them in the patio and you will hear
their very peculiar way of singing.
Ifyouaskwheretohavesomenicefood,everyonewilltellyoutogotoOnur Ocakbaşı (from
Gazi Cad. turn on S.Nazif st. No:6), in the historical center of the city. And they are right! Follow
the advice of the locals and go and eat a great kebab!
Getting to DiyarbakırbylandfromIstanbulisquitetimeconsuming,whileitismore
reasonable if you are coming from Ankara or somewhere closer in Turkey. Anyhow there are
buses and trains. Pegasus Airlines however offers very affordable prices for flights to and from
Diyarbakır, especially if booked in advance.
Diyarbakır
131
Aslan Otel
Newly renovated, simple but clean hotel,
well located and with reasonable prices. You
can choose between rooms en-suite or with
shared toilets. Breakfast is included in the
price, wireless connection is available and
so are few computers in the dining room. All
rooms have TV, Air condition (is a must if you
are visiting on summer time) and refrigerator
inside.
Kibris Cad. No:23
+90 412 224 70 96
www.diyarbakiraslanotel.com
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Surkent Hotel
Surkent Hotel is the cheapest hotel of the
city. The atmosphere is comparable to the
one of a hostel, with friendly (non-Englishspeaking) receptionists and
colorful rooms (slightly
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kitsch). The rooms are very
clean, but average, breakfast
is not included in the prices.
Dagkapı,
Hz Suleyman Cad. No: 19
+90 412 228 10 14
[email protected]
www.hotelsurkent.com.tr
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Ifyouneedaguide,askforOmer,avery
helpful guy who is happy to show people
around of a reasonable price.
Mahya Kahve Evi
Ofis Dilce St.
(in front of Saray Market)
+90 505 431 94 95
[email protected]
facebook.com/mahyakahveevi
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InthelivelydistrictofOfis,MahyaKahve
Evi is cozy cafe with more than 10 different
kind of coffee, meeting place for travelers,
musicians, street artists and locals. The owner
of the place is an interesting man who knows
theareareallywellandisveryfriendly.If
Diyarbakir is your first destination in Turkey,
or if you are thinking about where to go
next, step by the coffee shop and have a
chat with Hasan.
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Mardin
With its picturesque old buildings spilling down the hillside on which the city was built, Mardin is
a beautiful and often-overlooked stop on the route through southeastern Turkey. Although it used
to have a bad reputation as a hotbed of PKK activity, Mardin is slowly gaining back cred as a travel
destination, and nowadays is very safe. The view from the hill on the Syrian border it is simply stunning
and the whole old town, Eski Mardin, is full of interesting atelier, artisans, home-made wine shops and
amazing old buildings.
Don’t miss the bazaar or the Kırklar Kilesesi (Forty Martyrs’ Church, ), both in the old city. However,
the real attraction of Mardin is the fascinating blend of cultures- Turkish, Kurdish, Assyrian, and Arabwhich can be observed throughout the entire town.
Hasankeyf
This magnificent and historical little town, ringed by prehistoric caves and infused with centuries of
Seljuk,Kurdish,andArabhistory,isreachablebydolmuşfromBatman.Itsmagnificentrockformations
and evocative ruins would be worth a visit under any circumstances, but as it is, you should make
itHasankeyfatoppriority;therearecontroversialplansinplacetoconstructadamnearbywhich
would leave much of the area underwater and destroy countless important sites, as well as displace
thousands of inhabitants. The town was added to the World Monuments Fund Watch List in 2008 and
there has been a major outcry against the proposed construction, but it may not be enough. Get there
while you can!
Mardin Süryani Şarap Evi
1. Cad. No: 230
+904822121870
[email protected]
www.suryanisarapcilik.com
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This shop should be your first stop at the
beginning of your stay and the last one
beforeleaving.Oktayisanextremelyhelpful
English speaking gold and silver artisan. The
shop looks indeed just like all the others,
but walk him ask to taste his home made
wine! Süryani Wine is a special taste from the
region and the tradition is coming from ages
even before Christianity.
Mardin
133
Dara Konağı
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The mansion bears witness to 800 years of
history in the legendary city of Mardin. The
building and grounds have been restored
with the original structure and spirit in mind,
so guests will feel the hospitality and warmth
of an ancient Mesopotamia
savannah. Stones that were
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handcrafted 800 years ago stand
firm against the erosion of time
while speaking softly to you of a
time long past.
Şehidiye Mah. 39.St. No:13
+90 482 212 32 72
[email protected]
www.darakonagi.com
The name of each room represents a
civilization that shaped Madin’s history.
There are 2 single, 5 double, 1 triple and
2 suite rooms in the mansion. Please note
the terrace used for breakfast has a nice
view overlooking to the beautiful city and
surroundings.
Merlin Konağı
Recently opened restaurant-cafe spread on
three different floors of an old building, with
a wonderful view on Mesopotamia valley.
The mansion offers an incredible
atmosphere for your night in
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Mardin. Service is perfect and
very friendly, but with very poor
English.
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Yeni St. 29,No: 3
(Next to Sabanci Museum)
+90 482 213 72 02
[email protected]
www.merlinkonagi.com
Şahmeran Butik Otel
Nice and cozy pension with different kinds
of accommodations: dorms, single and
private rooms, some of which in the old
building (which means very chilly
also during summer!). The hotel
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has a lovely patio in the middle,
common living room with TV and
common kitchen.
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1 Cad. 246 St. No:10
(In front of Erdoba Osmanlı Konağı)
+904822132300
[email protected]
www.sahmeranpansiyon.com
Hatay
134
Hatay
The Hatay, a wedge of Turkey cutting into the northwestern border of Syria, is a bit of a world
apart from the rest of the country. The region’s largest town, Antakya, has seen empires come
andgobutnowseemsalmostmoreArabthanTurkish;indeed,SyrianArabicisthemother
tongue of the majority of inhabitants, although Turkish is almost universally understood. The
influence of the area’s southern neighbor doesn’t end there, and can be seen in everything from
the desserts (try künefe) to the ancient Christian ruins dating back to when the city was called
Antioch. Check out the teahouses in Büyük Antakya Parkı as well as the classical mosaics
found in the Archaeological Museum.
Mozaik Otel
Ifyouwantsomethingcentral,looknofarther
than Mosaik. As you can probably guess from
the name, much of the hotel is decorated
with interesting patterns on the walls,
including some of the large and generouslyfurnished rooms. There’s a jacuzzi and room
service, so it’s a great place to relax in the
heart of Antakya. Cable TV, a mini-bar, and
wi-fi are all available as well.
İstiklal Cad. No:18 Antakya
+90 326 215 50 20
[email protected]
www.mozaikotel.com
Hotel Saray
A slightly cheaper but still worthwhile
option is the Hotel Saray (meaning “palace”
inTurkish).It’sniceandcleanwithfans
available for you to cool off in the summer,
althoughthere’snoairconditioning.It’sa
little rough around the edges but nothing
Hürriyet Cad. No:3 - Antakya
+90 326 214 90 01
that adventurous travelers won’t enjoy. Saray
is definitely good value for the price- many of
the rooms have balconies with nice views, as
well as TVs.
Onward to Syria!
At the moment, we suggest you to avoid getting close to the Syrian border,
due to the ongoing unrest in the country. We hope that for the next edition the
situation will be better and we will be able to offer you a different advice.
Van
135
136
Van
Van & Around
Located on the eastern shore of Lake Van, the
largest lake in Turkey, Van is a small city steeped in
history. Archaeological finds dating back to 5000
BC have been encountered here, although the city
proper is presumed to have been an important
capital of the Urartian Kingdom starting in the 9th
century BC. Van is famous for its white cats with
one green eye and one blue, who- unusually- enjoy
swimming.
Check out Tuşba, Van’s old city. The spectacular palace complex of the Urartian Kingdom still
stands, and visitors will find numerous points of interest- the double hamam is particularly cool.
Van Castle, unsurprisingly, is the focal point of Tuşba, and includes burial chambers and temple
foundations. Take a look at the inscriptions which can be found all around the complex. Akdamar
Church (also known as the Church of the Holy Cross) is also well worth a visit. The interior of
the church is famous for its beautiful carvings depicting a range of Biblical scenes, as well as the
impressive animal-adorned border running all the way around the building.
Along with its bizarre cats and its incredible setting, there’s another big thing
Van is justly famous for: its breakfasts. Breakfast halls are still are tradition
here, where people gather for the most important meal of the day and
choose from a huge spread of dishes to get them going in the morning.
Sütçü Fevzi Kahvaltı Salonu (Kahvaltıcilar St. No:9) is one of the local
favorites, popular with both travelers and the city’s inhabitants themselves.
The elegant yet simple Aşiyan Ev Yemekleri
(Kazım Karabekir Cad.) boasts hands down
some of the best food you’ll find in Van,
about any kind of traditional Turkish food you
can name here- and, more than likely, a huge
selection of ones you can’t! Don’t miss the
pilav, mantı, and karnıyarık- all home-cooked
in the local style, as with everything on the
menu here. But Aşiyan is most well-known for
its succulent desserts. Try some old favorites like
baklava, or get a little more adventurous and try
the kayısı tatlısı (an apricot-based sweet dish).
Van
137
Getting to Van
Located in the far eastern reaches of Turkey, Van is a long way away from İstanbul. Buses and
trains do run there relatively frequently, but you’re in for a grueling journey (roughly 24 to 28
hours from İstanbul by bus, or 20 hours from Ankara). The bus station is a few kilometers outside
oftown;freeshuttlesrunintocentralVan,butremembertoallowsomeextratimeforthisifyou
have a schedule to keep.
You can take a train from Haydarpaşa in İstanbul to Tatvan, across Lake Van, on Mondays and
Fridays. The trip takes 40 hours. From there, get on the four-hour ferry to cross the lake.
Ifyouwanttosavesometime,catchaplanetoVanAirportfromanyofthemajorwesterncities.
It’safewkilometersoutsideoftown,soyou’llneedtoeitherhireataxiorwalktothemainroad
and get a dolmuş.
Akdamar Camping & Restaurant

Inbusinessforover25years,Akdamar
Akdamar Adası Karşısı,
Restaurant is undoubtedly a top choice for
Gevaş
sampling eastern Turkish cuisine. Situated
+90 432 214 34 79
right on the edge of Lake Van, you can dine
[email protected]
in style with a view of the water,
www.akdamarrestaurant.net
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watching the ships crossing to the
I
and
pay the same price (nothing!) for a
harbor. Sit on the outside terrace
hot shower at the end of the day. Weary
for the best atmosphere- there
travelers will feel right at home here, and
are shade canopies to shield you
the friendly owner will do everything in his
from the sun, and the bright colors
power to keep you feeling that way.
and plentiful greenery will make you feel
relaxed and welcome. Choose from a variety
oftraditionalormoreinternationaldishes;
the house specialties include a delicious pilav
and the famous Van breakfast spread.
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There’s more to Akdamar than the food,
though: you can pitch your tent for free here,
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Van
Grand Deniz Turizm
To truly experience the vastness and calm
of Turkey’s largest lake, embark on a boat
tour to one of its many islands. Grand Deniz
Turizm can organize trips to a number of
islands including Ahtamara and Çarpanak,
where you will experience
the laid-back pace of life in
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the eastern region and the
soothing harmony of nature,
where the green shore meets
the blue of the water.
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Next to Selçuklu Cemetery
+90 432 612 40 38
[email protected]
www.granddeniz.com
Grand Deniz also has a traditional restaurant
serving three meals a day, but most especially
the Van breakfast which the area is famous
for.Ifyoufancyalakefrontpicnic,their
location is unbeatable- take your food right
down to the waterside!
Mavi Tuana Otel
Mavi Tuana has single, double and triple
en-suited rooms with TV, AC and wireless. An
abundant breakfast is included in
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the price, quite safe and clean,
althoughseemslikeabighotel;
prices are reasonable.
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Zübeyde Hanım Cad. No:26
+90 432 215 00 05
[email protected]
www.mavituanahotel.com
Otel Side
Hotel Side is a simple hotel, with 24-hour
front desk service. As in this area you will
struggle to find budget hotels, it is a good
value one. The rooms of Side
Hotel include a flat-screen
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TV with satellite channels,
heating and a minibar. Each
room has a private bathroom
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Sıhke Cad. No:5
+90 432 216 62 65
[email protected]
www.otelside.com
with a hairdryer. Check out the view from the
terrace while making your breakfast(included
in the price).
Doğubeyazıt
139
The history of Doğubeyazıt/Doğubayazıt goes back to more than 2700 years ago, when it
waspartoftheKingdomofUrartu.ItwaslatelyconqueredbyPersians,Romans,Arabs,and
Byzantines,beforethenbecomingpartoftheOttomanEmpirein1514.Itthenwentthrough
the Turko-Persian war, the Russian-Turkish War and the First World War.
The town, surrounded by the highest mountain in Turkey, is located around 15 km southwest
of Mount Ararat,93kmeastofthecityofAğrıand35kmfromtheIranianborder.Itisanideal
location for an alternative view on Turkey and to visit around some interesting not well-known
attractions: go and see the beautiful Ishak Pasha Palace, climb Mount Ararat and wander
around some interesting ruins on Giriktepe Hill.
The impressive İshak Paşa Sarayı is a relatively modern palace built in the seventeenth century
bythereigningOttomanEmpire.FamousforitsOttomanartanditsstunninglocationona
valley slope (5 kms outside of Doğubeyazıt), the palace is actually an entire complex rather than
a single building. Be on the lookout for Quranic inscriptions praising the pashas.
Murat Camping
Murat camping is located on the way to
İshak Paşa Palaceand there you will find a
welcoming campground, 10 rooms and a nice
restaurantwith an amazing view. The friendly
staff also organizes tours around Doğu
Beyazıt. Ask for tour options and culture tours
and climbing to the Mt. Ararat
(foreigners need a permission
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from Turkish government.
Contact them they manage to
take it in one or two days. )
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Next to Ishak Paşa Palace
+905424373699
[email protected]
www.muratcamping.com
Their tours contains airport transfer from 5
airports around 5 different cities. Climbing
package includes accommodation, food, tour
guideandpermission.Otherwiseyoucango
also for the only guide-permission option to
make it cheaper! Check out araratexpeditions.
com for further information.
140
Safranbolu
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Located in the Western Black Sea region, Safranbolu is a charming little town retaining much
ofitsOttomancharacterfrompreviouscenturies.Infact,it’sknownforbeingperhapsthe
most“Ottoman”cityinallofTurkey;duetoitshistoricalarchitecture,Safranboluhasbeen
namedtotheUNESCOWorldHeritageList.Particularlyinterestingtohistoryenthusiastsis
the Kaymakamlar Evi, which features separate courtyards with windows from the harem
quartersaswellasthemen’srooms(knownasselamlık).Ifyouwanttocatchaviewofthe
entire old town from a height, make your way to Hıdırlık Tepesi.
Cooks and eager shoppers should keep an eye out for saffron, the spice for which Safronbolu
was named. Alternately, sample some in the local cooking at Taşev (Hıdırlık Yokuşu 14), also
featuring a gallery and an impressive collection of wines.
Safranbolu is roughly six hours outside of İstanbul by bus and makes a fantastic waypoint
for travelers heading east to Samsun, Trabzon, or Georgia. Most intercity buses will drop you
inthemoderntown;toreachthemuchmorepicturesqueoldtown(EskiSafranbolu),hop
onadolmuş.Numerousgreatdaytripsarepossible-hoponadolmuşandgetexploring!In
particular, check out the old towns of Hadranoupolis (Eskipazar) and about 10 km away.
Also reachable from Safranbolu at a distance of 8 km is the country’s fourth largest cave,
known as Bulak Cavern (Mencilis Mağarası in Turkish).
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Safranbolu
BLACK SEA
Efe Backpackers Pension & Guesthouse
Efe Guesthouse was recently remodeled in
2006, but the original look and feel of the
180-year old building lingers on, giving
guests the illusion of stepping back in time.
With reasonable prices and
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a friendly smile waiting for
anyone who walks through
the front door, Efe’s is a great
choice tucked away in one
of Safranbolu’s charming streets.
The owners and staff are genuinely eager
to please and will happily give you service
with a smile if you have any questions to
ask of them. To the same end, Efe’s provides
a transfer from the bus station so you don’t
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Cinci Han Hotel
For a bit of a splash-out upscale option,
you can’t do better than the Cinci Han. The
architecture is one of the big draws of the
place, and you won’t be disappointed- it’s
hard not to be awed by the solid stone
rooms dating back to the 17th century
and once used as a Silk Road stopover. The
staff is similarly excellent and most have
a professional background in tourism and
hospitality education, so you know the
service will be superlative. Choose from 22
standard rooms or one of two suites.
Ifyou’reeagertocheckoutthehistorical
building but aren’t feeling like being a big
spender, a cheaper alternative is to simply sit

Çavuş Mah. Kayadibi St. 8
+90 370 725 26 88
[email protected]
www.backpackerspension.com
have to lug your bags around searching for
a sign.
There are eight rooms with
atotal30-personcapacity;
dorms as well as singles and
doubles are available. There is a lounge and
a kitchen for common use, along with an
incredible terrace with some of the best
views you’ve probably ever seen in a hotel!

Eski Çarsi Çesme Cinci Han
+90 370 712 06 90
[email protected]
www.cincihan.com
down for a meal in the attached restaurant.
It’sconstructedintheareawhereweary
travelers would once leave their pack animals,
butyouwouldn’tguessthattoday.It’sclean
and welcoming, a great place to cast off your
ownburdenandsipacupoftea.Ifyou’rein
a hurry, though, you can tour the building for
an admission fee of 1 TL.
Black Sea
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Amasra
Just two hours from Safranbolu by bus, the sleepy coastal town of Amasra is a historical
goldmine minus the crowds you’re likely to find in the Black Sea region’s larger cities. With quiet
beaches, two islands for exploration, and a history stretching back to ancient times, Amasra will
keep nature-lovers and architecture buffs alike enthralled. The impressive Amasra Castle dates
back to Roman rule and owes its eclectic appearance to numerous additions and improvements
by various occupiers throughout history. Take some time to visit the Church Mosque as well,
which, as the name suggests, has been used for both Christian and Muslim worship in the past.
To reach Amasra, you can take a bus from Bartın, the most convenient local hub 10 kilometers to
the south. From there, it’s an easy connection to Safranbolu. The roads are somewhat run-down
in this region, but look at it in a positive light- you might just have the place all to yourself.
Samsun
Featuring prominently in the 20th century history of the Turkish Republic as well as being
an important sea port throughout the years, Samsun is nevertheless short on areas of
touristic interest. The main exceptions are the two museums in town. The first of these is the
Archaeological Museum, displaying an impressive mosaic salvaged from the old settlement of
Karasamsun, while the second, the Gazi Museum, is dedicated to Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the
founder of the modern republic.
Heading east from Samsun, take a drive along the scenic Yason Burnu (Cape Jason), so named
for the famous Argonaut. An ancient temple dedicated to the hero is said to have once stood
here;now,ithasbeenreplacedbyaquaintchurch,wellworthavisit.
Trabzon
Founded by the Greeks in the eighth century BC, Trabzon has a long and rich history spanning
numerous civilizations and accumulating, over the centuries, wide and varied influences.
Trabzon even boasts an ex-church museum called, familiarly, the Hagia Sophia (or Aya Sofya).
For reasonably-priced accommodation, stay at the Anıl Otel(İskenderpaşaMah;046232672
82) or T.S Park Otel (Atatürk Alanı Meydan Cad. 5).
For spectacular views, you take take a dolmuş up to the pleasant district of Boztepe, situated on
a hill. There are plans to construct a high-end hotel at the top, but for now, you can enjoy lunch
at the hilltop restaurant while checking out the view.
A second must-do excursion from Trabzon is Uzungöl, 45 km outside the town of Çaykara. The
beautiful scenery is best viewed from a mountain bike, which you can hire at one of the many
shops and teahouses on its edges.
Trabzon is well-connected on public transportation routes and thus is relatively easy to reach.
The bus station is served by minibuses, and is closer to town than the airport (about three
kilometers).
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Trabzon
BLACK SEA
Sümela / Trabzon
Take a taxi or catch a tour to Sümela Monastery, roughly 48 km southeast of the city. Built
in Byzantine times after the Greek monk Barnabas discovered a holy icon here, it hugs
the cliffside in a remarkable feat of engineering. The monastery is currently undergoing
restorations, but fortunately, they don’t interfere with visitation and Sümela remains a
heavily trafficked pilgrimage site. Although you may notice some of the wear and tear which
prompted the Turkish government’s restoration plans (most prominently on the frescoes),
much of the building is intact and in relatively good shape. Check out the aqueduct at the
entrance and the Rock Church, as well as the numerous small monastic cells and assorted
chambers lining the passageways.
Ifyou’replanningavisittoSümela,chancesareyou’llfindyourselfinthenearbytownof
Maçka at some point during your excursion. Aside from the breathtaking natural scenery
(think: more cliffs of the Sümela variety), there’s not terribly much to do or see here, but it
does make a refreshing and uncrowded stop.
Kayadibi Saklıbahçe Restaurant
Hands down one of the best-kept secrets
of the area, don’t miss the hidden Kayadibi
SaklıbahçeRestaurant.Youcanfinditon
your way to Sümela Monastery, just before
enteringMaçka-it’slocated
immediately after a tunnel.
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Tünel Çıkışı, Maçka
+90 462 512 23 18
[email protected]
www.kayadibisaklibahce.com
The location couldn’t be
better, and you’ll definitely
enjoy the peaceful garden and
pleasant views. But of course you’re really
coming for the food! Most of the menu here
is local fare served in generous portions.
You’ll recognize the traditional Turkish dishes
you’ve probably eaten elsewhere such as
grilled meat plates and pilav, but you’ll also
find specialty regional foods. Try the stuffed
grape leaves and the local black cabbage
soup.
Rize
BLACK SEA
145
Rize
The mid-sized city of Rize is the last semi-major city on Turkey’s west-to-east Black Sea coastal
route toward Georgia. Somewhat lacking in tourist attractions but definitely not in charm, Rize
offers a museum (onUlubatlıSt.)displayingtraditionalcostumesinanoldOttomanbuilding,
as well as a Genoese castle overlooking the town. Snack like a king at the conveniently-located
cafe in the castle,, and take in the views of the city afforded by the place’s prime location. Rize is
a great place to learn about the history of the local Laz people as well- the museum will get you
started.
Rize’sfame,however,comesfromitsprominenceinTurkey’steaindustry;eastofTrabzon,the
climate is ideal for its production. You can see the tea bushes growing all over the area at low
altitudesasyouenterthecity.Onceinside,shoparoundforlocalvarietiestotakehomeorhave
a wander through the tea gardenknownasZiraat,whereyoucanenjoyacupofçaywhenyou
visit. Not only for tea, the gardens have a variety of pretty plants.
Connoisseurs of fine food and drink would do well to make the 10-kilometer trip outside
Rize to Çayeli, where you’ll find one of Turkey’s three Hüsrev Restaurants (Çayeli Çıkışı Hopa
İstikameti). All sorts of local food is available, but be sure to try one of their famous bean dishes
in particular.
The Maçahel Valley is truly one of Turkey’s untouched gems- so much so that international
visitors require a special permit to access the 23 villages scattered along the Machakhlistskali
River.TheareawasunderGeorgiancontroluntilitfelltotheOttomanempirein1479;even
today, however, the way of life in the valley’s tiny settlements seems to consist of an alluring
mix of Turkish and Georgian tradition. The village life isn’t the only attraction here, though, and
you’re sure to keep busy with trekking and snapping photographs of the incredible views all
around you.
To organize a tourism permit, contact Kenan Kahya at +90 532 652 41 96. Kenan also manages
a highly-recommended pension in the valley called Bunbulay Pansiyon and is generous about
sharing his extensive knowledge of the area.
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BLACK SEA
Kaçkar Mountains
Kaçkar Mountains
Rize makes an excellent jumping-off point to visit the spectacular Kaçkar Mountains. Part
of northern Turkey’s Pontic range, the area has been a national park since 1994 and features
some of the most unspoiled and rugged terrain anywhere in the country. Nature-lovers will
beinparadise;endlesstrekkingopportunitiesareavailable,takingyoupastwaterfallsand
lushmountainspasturesknownasyaylalar.YoucanevensummitMountKaçkar,thefourthhighest peak in Turkey.
Oneofthemostimportantandheavily-trafficked(relativelyspeaking,ofcourse!)access
pointstotheKaçkarregionisthelittletownofÇamlıhemşin.Famousforitslushforestsand
rolling hills, Çamlıhemşin is worth a visit year round, although you may want to make a
specialefforttovisitifyouhappentobeintheareaintheautumn;thefoliageisimpressive.
Ekodanitap
Ekodanitap is, quite simply, unmissable. The
setting is straight out of some rustic fairy
tale, encompassing rivers and mountains
and deep forests, all conspiring to bring you
back into contact with nature.
The owner, a transplant
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frombig-cityIstanbul,
makes his dedication to
environmentalism and
sustainable living apparent from
the get-go (the hotel’s name is a play on
the word Kodanitap, meaning “flat place” in
Armenian), and that positive, natural attitude
is what you’ll find here in abundance.
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Aşağı Çamlıca Yolu Sapağı 1km.
Çamlıhemşin
+90 464 651 77 87
[email protected]
www.ekodanitap.com
Ekodanitap has just about everything you
could ask for in such a remote location. The
manager is also a local guide who knows all
thereistoknowandmoreabouttheregion;
should you get a hankering to go exploring,
he can take you on a tour of the mountains.
The views are amazing, of course, and the
food is organic (breakfast and dinner are
included). The range of homegrown products
is incredible- try their wine, liquors, tea,
andfruit.Ifyoufindthatyoujustcan’ttear
yourself away, Ekodanitap is often looking for
volunteers to help out around the place.
Luckily but perhaps surprisingly given the
remote location, the lodge is open all year
round. Find it just before Çamlıhemşin on
theright;you’llhavetowalkforaboutten
minutes, but it’s signposted.
Kaçkar Mountains
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147
Ayder / Kaçkar Mountains
ThecountrysidearoundRizeandtheKaçkarsisripeforexploringandriddledwithtinyvillages
living a lifestyle which seems centuries removed. The little mountain town of Ayder is one of
these hidden gems. To see its natural thermal springs for yourself, just hop a dolmuş from the
town of Pazar, which is in turn accessible by minibus from Rize. Nature lovers will be in ecstasy at
thissummerparadise,surroundedbywaterfalls,lakesandmountainpastures;cultureenthusiasts
should keep an eye out for the bagpipes which are commonly played in the region.
Natura Lodge
Hikers intent on getting an early start in the
Kaçkarsmaywanttostayinoneofthetrailhead villages for a night before setting out.
The clean Natura Lodge fills the need perfectly,
with 21 rooms and offering great scenery with
a rustic feel. They can set up a variety
ofKaçkartoursforyou,designed
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to cover all of the region’s most
majestic highlights while under the
supervision of a trained guide.
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Openyearround,NaturaLodge(asthename
suggests!) is committed to keeping things
green. Everything about the place feels clean
Ayder Yaylası Turizm Merkezi
+90 464 657 20 35
[email protected]
www.naturaotel.com
and unspoiled, from the tasteful wooden
building to the fresh meals prepared in the
lodge restaurant. A selection of tours and
activities can be arranged, including rafting and
swimming, and you’re sure not to go wanting
for things to keep you busy outdoors in this
spectacular natural paradise.
Liligum Mountain House
Fresh strawberries. Fields of wildflowers. A
peaceful haven, ringed by waterfalls, just
steps from the boundless wilderness of the
Kaçkars.Soundgood?ThenLiligumisthe
place for you. This family-run place
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is all about the little touches
which make you feel at homenewly-cut flowers adorning your
room, homegrown vegetables in
the delicious local-styled cooking, evening
teatime together while you admire the view.
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Aşağı Ambarlık Mevkii
+90 464 657 21 23
[email protected]
www.ayderliligum.com
The wood-furnished rooms are equipped
with ensuite bathrooms and hot water is
a guarantee 24 hours a day. Just one note
of caution: Liligum is only open in the
summertime, so check availability if you’re
planning a trip for one of the shoulder
seasons.
148
Georgia
149
Getting to Georgia
IfyouwanttohopovertoGeorgiaforabitorcontinueyouradventuresintheneighboring
country, Rize makes a good starting point. You can catch a bus to Batumi (five hours) or the
capitalcityofTblisi(elevenhours)fromtheotogaraboutakilometertothewestoftown;
generally five or six buses cross the border daily. From Rize, the journey will take you to Sarp, a
border town which has become the primary crossing point between Turkey and Georgia since
the end of the Cold War. The last stop before the border is Hopa, from which point you can
easilywalkacrossintoGeorgia.Taxisareplentifulandcheap,astheyarethroughoutGeorgia;
the trip to Batumi is around 25 kilometers and should run you 20-25 lari (roughly 20 TL). Most
taxidriversspeakgoodTurkish.Makesureyouhavethepropervisasanddocuments;citizensof
Australia and New Zealand currently require visas (although EU and US citizens do not).
Culture and History
Although Georgia, like Turkey, stands at a geographical crossroads between east and west, its
culture and history are very much its own. Centuries of invasion and occupation have left their
marks on the Georgian landscape, but the Georgian people, unrelated to either the Turks or
the Russians, are absolutely unique. Georgia has been a predominantly Christian nation since
roughly the fourth century AD and boasts hundreds of ancient churches and monasteries
scattered throughout its picturesque mountain ranges and mirrored lakes. The Georgian people,
who value friendship above all else, are known for being open and hospitable. The warm spirit
of the locals is just one of the many reasons to visit this small and beautiful country.
Food
The importance of both food and drink to Georgian culture is best observed during a feast, or
supra, when a huge assortment of dishes is prepared, always accompanied by large amounts of
wine,anddinnercanlastforhours.InaGeorgianfeast,theroleofthetamada(toastmaster)is
an important and honored position.
Georgian dishes draw inspiration from the cuisines of its geographical neighbors. You’ll find
many local foods which closely mirror popular Turkish meals as well as some, such as shashlik
(shish kebabs), which are common in central Asia. Among the vast variety of delicious dishes to
try are tkemali, a plum sauce, and kharcho, a traditional soup made with beef and rice.
150
GEORGIA
Batumi
Georgia’s prime coast is right here- look no further. Located on the Black Sea, Batumi is a
thriving party city where travelers, businessmen, locals, and students of all nationalities come
tounwindandletdowntheirhaironthepebblybeachesandinthecrowdednightclubs.It’sa
popular destination for vacationing Turks, with its convenient location just a few hours from the
border, and makes a great first stop for anyone heading east from Rize.
Partiers will find endless entertainment in Batumi, from the
countless bars and clubs to the Turkish casinos which have
sprung up here due to the illegality of gambling back across
the border. Eredeli’s Bar (Baratashvilit Street 1) is one fun
venue with frequent live shows. Due to the tourism boom in
thearea,thereisnoshortageofaccommodationoptions;Sky
Hostel(InasadridzeStreet16/59)and Globus Hostel (Mazniashvili Street 54) are both good
choices, or read on for more detailed recommendations! Petri Rashi (or White Horse, located
at Gorgiladze Street 2) is a great stop for those with rumbling stomachs, serving big portions of
delicious local food.
Getting to and from Batumi is generally a hassle-free undertaking. An airport services the city
from 2 kilometers south, and numerous buses run to various locations daily, including Trabzon
inTurkeyandtheGeorgiancapitalofTbilisi,6hoursdistant.Ifyoupreferthefreedomofdriving
your own vehicle, Acara Rent A Car, with an office at the airport, is recommended.
Vinyl Bar
Vinyl is Batumi’s original alternative cafe.
Despite its name, the ownership of Vinyl
Bar emphasizes that this is not a place
to come looking for fancy cocktails, but
rather a welcoming gathering place for
friends and artists, a place for conversation
and relaxation. With the focus squarely on
mingling and chilling out, you know you’ll
receive a warm welcome here.
DIS
COUNT
1 free
10%
chacha
Dumbadze Street 12/14
(on Europe Square)
+995 93 33 14 99
[email protected]
Food is served along with drinks- definitely
try the sandwiches, which are locally famous
with Georgians and expats alike. You’ll often
find live shows on the terrace in the summer,
making Vinyl the place to sit back and meet
new friends after a long day of
Batumi
GEORGIA
151
Batumi Hostel
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A new hostel with a recently changed address,
Batumi Hostel is a chilled out place run by a
youngcouple.It’slocatedinthemiddleofthe
OldTownandhasthedistinctadvantageof
being close to... well, just about everything, so
you won’t have to worry about arranging local
transport when you wake up groggy
from a night out on the town.
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The hostel (constructed in an old
house) has two dorms and two
private rooms, all at prices which are
quite reasonable by local standards. Although
the place is only open in summertime, you’ll
find that it’s rarely packed to the gills like some
of the wilder hostels in town. Come expecting
to relax, not necessarily to continue the party
after you get home. To that end, there are
Gen. Mazhiashvili 13,
Old Batumi
+995 555 50 77 05
[email protected]
great balconies throughout the building and
strong showers with nice hot water to rinse
off the traveling grime. Sit back afterwards
in one of the comfortable leather couches in
the common room, or check out the quirky
decorations. Laundry service is available, wi-fi
is free, and you’ll love the common kitchen if
you’re the type who likes to save money by
hitting up the grocery stores. Take cash when
you check in, though, as credit cards are not
accepted.
Gulnasi’s Guesthouse
Gulnasi’s Guesthouse is a very cool little place
which is seasonal for the most interesting
reason we’ve yet come across- in the winter,
it functions as a schoolhouse! You can stay
here during the local kids’ vacation, which
runs roughly from mid-June to
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mid-September. The hostel is
run by a Georgian family (with
English-speaking children), so
you can be sure of getting a
warm welcome.
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Lermatov Street 24A
+995 599 79 72 24
[email protected]
facebook.com/pages/Gulnasis-Guesthouse
There are 20 rooms with shared bathrooms
and a common kitchen. The building is
wheelchair accessible and airport transfers,
as well as tours, can be arranged. Last but
definitely not least, tea and coffee are free
all day!
152
GEORGIA
Tbilisi
Tbilisi
Georgia’s capital and largest city, Tbilisi is located in the country’s eastcentral region, nestled in the low hills around the Trialeti mountains. The
city’s name comes from the word for “warm” (tbili), a toponym referring to
its mythical origins. According to legend, Tbilisi was founded by a fifthcentury king who chose the site after he came across a magical hot spring
while pheasant-hunting.
Tbilisiispackedwiththingstodo.Museumenthusiastsarespoiledforchoicehere;choosefrom
the Numismatic Museum (showcasing old coins, and located at G. Leonidze 3/5), the Museum
of Art (L. Gudiashvili 1), the Puppet Museum (Shavteli 17A), the Janashia Museum with its
spectacular archaeological collections (Rustaveli Av. 3), and many others. Architecture buffs
willloveawanderthroughthewell-preservedOldTownoravisittoanyofthedozensofold
churches and mosques hidden in Tbilisi’s alleyways, while hikers will appreciate the picturesque
lakes just outside of town and the steep walk up to Narikala Fortress, which offers incredible
panoramic views. The sulfur baths, Georgia’s answer to Turkey’s invigorating hamams, are also
well worth the experience, although you may not be able to get service in English. Head to the
districtofAbanotubaniifyou’reinterested.Ifitallseemsabitoverwhelming,checkoutthe
terrific Explore Outdoor (Machabeli St. 7), which offers free city tours.
Tbilisi is a shopper’s paradise, with open-air bazaars and curious little shops seemingly
everywhere you look. The Saturday market near the river (also known as the Dry Bridge
Market) has everything under the sun and you can often snag fascinating curios for dirt-cheap
prices. The slightly more mundane daily marketplace near Didube has an equally broad but
more everyday selection of goods.
Food and accommodation are rarely an issue in Tbilisi. A range of popular establishments are
available in both categories, such as the central and ever-thriving Boombully Rooms & Hostel
(Rustaveli Avenue 24) and the chain restaurant 24/24 (Leselidze Street 26).
As central as it is, Tbilisi has the added advantage of being extremely easy to reach and depart
from. Buses run constantly to and from the rest of Georgia and beyond, and the international
airport 17 km southeast of town is reachable by bus or taxi.
Tbilisi
153
GEORGIA
Nest Hostel
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Nest Hostel is a colorful and incredibly wellequipped hangout slash home-away-fromhome where you can find all kinds of fun
characters night and day. The place was opened
after Tbilisi bar owners noticed the endless
streams of foreign travelers trading stories in
theirwateringhole;nowadays,theydividetheir
time between hostel management and running
the affiliated bar, Nest Bar (or BUDE Bar).
They’ve worked hard to make Nest
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Hostel a place where hardcore
partiers and their more chilled out
compatriots alike can have a great
time. The foremost policy is “do not
disturb,” meaning that everyone is encouraged
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Iashvili Street 23, Tbilisi
+995 598 16 17 71
[email protected]
to do their own thing so long as they don’t
infringe on anyone else’s fun!
All those amenities we mentioned? Free coffee
and tea all day, space for storing your luggage,
free maps, free towels, free book exchange,
a common kitchen, a computer available for
guest use, all kinds of local tips and information,
and of course, a smile every time you walk in
the door. Both dorms and privates are available.
Tbilisi Hostel

Located in a two-storey house with a balcony
and a garden shaded with vines, Tbilisi
Hostel has great views of the ancient fortress
and mountains above the city. Relax in the
hammocks and bean-bags during the day
or party in the garden at night
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with plenty of Georgian-style
drinking, or plan out your next
day of sightseeing with help
from the multilingual owner,
Rauf.It’slocatedinanauthentictraditional
neighbourhood, two minutes’ walk from a
farmer’s market, bakeries and supermarkets
andjusttenminuteswalkfromtheOldTown.
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Avlabari, Makhati
Shesakhvevi 22, Tbilisi
+995 322 74 76 68
[email protected]
www.tbilisihostel.com
Great for partying, Tbilisi Hostel has a great
common garden, a common kitchen, and a
barbecue. There’s nowhere better to be in the
summertime! With a 30-person capacity, most
ofthebedsherearedorm-style.Ifyouwant
the one private room, make sure to book
ahead in summer.
154
GEORGIA
Tbilisi
Canudos Ethnic Bar
Canudos Ethnic Bar is more
than just a place to get your
drink on, it’s a meeting place
and crossroads for all kinds of
artistic, political, and funloving people from all over the earth. There’s
a very chilled out, live and let live vibe which
you will definitely appreciate after a long day of
international exploration.
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Named after an ancient city in Brazil which,
according to legend, was home to only the
pure-hearted, Canudos is effortlessly intriguing.
The walls are covered with
odds and ends from all corners
of the globe, esoterica ranging
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1 free
from concert tickets, calling
shot
cards, and paper money
to photographs, boarding
passes, and everything else
you can imagine. The artsy feel is carried over
into the rest of the bar’s decorations, which
range from quirky to fascinating- Buddha
10%
Javakhishvili St,
Samaia Garden, Tbilisi
+995 591 91 13 11
[email protected]
www.facebook.com/canudos
statues, prayer flags, and
rare musical instruments
are only the beginning.
The alcohol is cheap
and plentiful, so bring
your friends and grab a
seat. You’ll feel the travel
stories start flowing out
of you. Don’t forget to
the check the schedule
of events before you head over, because
Canudos is constantly hosting some fantastic
partiesliketheNakedParty,theIrishParty,the
Valentine’s Day Beer Pong Tournament, and
tons more.
Cafe Gallery
A quiet happy hour followed by an increasing
volume level throughout the evening,
culminating in a crazy party when the sun
goes down. Sound good? Then you’re in the
right place. With all kinds of music, great
DJs, and a clientele composed of artists and
musicians, Cafe Gallery is a tiptop place to
hang out with a beer in your hand or get a
bit wild. Friday and Saturday, as you might
imagine, are the big nights here. See what’s
on tap!
48 Rustaveli Ave. / 34
Griboedov Str. Tbilisi
+995 322 99 57 47
www.cafe-gallery.info-tbilisi.com
The garden is great and
there’s a gallery, as the name
suggests, which sometimes
hosts cool exhibitions.
Borjomi
GEORGIA
155
The town of Borjomi, which has existed in its modern incarnation
sincetheearly19thcentury,islocatedinsouth-centralGeorgia.It
has enjoyed increasing popularity in recent decades as a result of its
natural mineral water, which is commonly believed to contain healing
properties. The water, which is salty and volcanic, has its source in the
springinBorjomiGorge.Ifyou’refeelingabitundertheweather,you
can test its curative powers yourself with a dip in the natural hot pool 2 km down the river.
For more particular directions (as well as any other assistance you might require), ask Artur at
the fantastic tourism information center on the town’s main street (+995 599 30 25 13).
Most of Borjomi’s attractions are in some way related to the springs. The
largest ecological theme park in the Caucasus is here, as well as a terrific
national park called Borjomi Kharagauli. You can get a day pass for free at
the head office, located a bit west of the town center on Meskheti Street.
Borjomi’s more diminutive size makes accommodation a bit harder to come by than in
metropolises like Tbilisi. Still, you shouldn’t have too much trouble finding somewhere to
drop your bags. Try the seasonal Borjomi Hostel (Kostava Street 17) if you’re around in
the summer, or if a homestay is more your style, give Marina a call at +995 367 22 01 70.
Restaurants can be found all over, and even the train station has delicious eats.
Buses and minibuses can get you in and out of Borjomi. Services run every hour from Tbilisi
andcost8lari.Ifyou’recomingfromBatumi,takethemorningbuscosting17lari.
156
Turkish Language Courses
Ifyou’replanningonstayinginthecountryforawhile,aTurkishcourseisagreatinvestment.
Learn how to chat with the locals!
Turkish isn’t closely related to Romance or Germanic languages, so you won’t get a lot of
freebies unless you speak Persian or Arabic, and the structure might seem strange to you
atfirst.Fortunately,Turkishisverylogicalandyoudon’thavetolearnanewalphabet.If
you have a few weeks to spare in İstanbul, check out the best-of-the-best language schools
listed below and take some lessons which will have you reading and speaking conversational
Turkish in no time!
TURKÇE ATOLYESİ
Asmaltı Mescit Cad. No: 3,
4th floor, Beyoğlu
+90 212 251 35 34
[email protected]
www.turkceatolyesi.com
2pm is usually open day for the new students.
Drop them an email or show up 15
min before if you feel like giving
ISCOU
it a try!
D
10%
NT
Classes of maximum 8-10 people this small
school offers a very good alternative to the
classical language schools, for a more familylike learning experience. Equipped with
the latest technology and combined with
the flexible schedule and in-house made
studying material, their method is much more
conversational-oriented compares to the usual
grammar-approach. When you go visit them,
accept the tea and sit on their spacious terrace
withviewonSultanahmet!OnSaturdayat
DİLMER Language Teaching Center
DİLMER is arguably the most famous of the
İstanbul-based language schools and offers
both four-week (intensive) and eight-week
courses for a wide variety of levels.
TÖMER
Associated with Ankara University, TÖMER
gives Turkish courses which generally last three
weeks. They have branches across the countrynot just in İstanbul- so you can learn some
Turkish no matter where you end up.
İnönü Cad.
Prof. Tarık Zafer Tunaya St.
No: 16
+90 212 292 96 96
[email protected]
www.dilmer.com
Katıp Çelebi Mah. Tel St.
No: 47 (Taksim)
+90 212 249 16 48-49
[email protected]
www.tomer.ankara.edu.tr
Dictionary
157
TurkishisnotanIndo-Europeanlanguage,thereforeitdoesnotsharethatmuchofvocabulary
with European languages. However, there are many French words that were adopted in the last
century and in most of the touristic places people will understand basic English. Turkish people
are very proud and they love their language. Any effort to express yourself with it will be more
than appreciated and might also be rewarded with further discount or special treatment!
Pronunciation
Pronunciation in Turkish language is fairly simple, since most of the time, the words are pronounced
just like they are written. Although, the language does contain some letters that are special to it.
Here are the examples::
C/c: Like J in “Jar”
I/ı: Like e in “Oven”
Ö/ö: Like the u in “lurch”
Ü/ü: Like the ew in “mew”
Ç/ç: Like Ch in “Church”
J/j: Like the g in “Huge”
Ş/S: Like the sh in “short”
Ğ/ğ: This letter has no sound of it’s own, but prolongs the
preceding vowel
Basics
Hello: Merhaba/Selam
Goodbye (See you): Görüşürüz
Take care: Kendine iyi bak
Good morning: Günaydın
Good afternoon/Good day: İyi günler
Good evening: İyi akşamlar
Good night: İyi geceler
Yes/No: Evet/Hayır
Please: Lütfen
Thank you/Thanks: Teşekkür ederim/Teşekkürler
You’re welcome: Bir şey değil/Rica ederim
Excuse me: Afedersiniz/Pardon
Good/Bad: İyi/Kötü
There is/There isn’t: Var/Yok
Do you speak English?: İngilizce konuşuyor musunuz?
Howmuchisit?:Nekadar?/Kaçpara?
What is your name?: Adınız ne?/İsminiz ne?
My name is ______: (Benim) adım________/(Benim) ismim ________
Nice to meet you: Memnun oldum
Nice to meet you too: Ben de memnun oldum
158
Dictionary
Getting Around
What time does the next _______ leave/arrive?: Sonraki _______ ne zaman kalkıyor/varıyor?
Ferry: Vapur
Bus: Otobüs
Shared taxi: Dolmuş
One-way/With return: Tek yön/Gidiş-dönüş
Ticket: Bilet
Bus station: Otogar
Taxi stop: Taksi durağı
Where is _____?: _____ nerede?
Near/Far: Yakın/Uzak
Can you forward this money?: Şu parayı öne uzatabilir misiniz?
MayIgetoff?:İnebilirmiyim?
Can you drop me off at the suitable spot?: Müsait bir yerde bırakabilir misiniz?
1,2,3,4,5:Bir,iki,üç,dört,beş
6, 7, 8, 9, 10: Altı, yedi, sekiz, dokuz, on
Directions
Left: Sol
Right: Sağ
Up: Yukarı
Straight: Düz
Ahead: İlerde
Behind: Arkada
Accommodation
Hotel: Otel
Pension: Pansiyon
Campground: Kamping
Isthereafreeroom?:Boşodavarmı?
One night: Bir gece
Two nights: İki gece
Is breakfast included?: Kahvaltı dahil mi?
Down: Aşağı
Dictionary
159
Turkish Food & Drink
Ayran: Salty yogurt drink
Fındık: Hazelnuts
Balık: Fish
Et: Meat
Kahve: Coffee
Kokoreç: Grilled and spicy sheep intestines
Tavuk: Chiken
Bira: Beer
Menemen:Omlet-likedishwithtomatoesand
Börek: Rich pastry
Çay: Tea
Çiğ köfte: Raw meatballs
Köfte: Meatballs
Çorba: Soup
Dondurma: Ice cream
Dürüm: Pita like roll used to wrap food
Döner: Turkish kebab
various ingredients
Midye: Mussels
Patlıcan: Eggplant/Aubergine
Peynir: Cheese
Pide: Turkish pizza-like dish
Rakı: Strong alcoholic ansiseed drink
Şarap: Wine
Şeftali: Peach
Elma: Apple
Yumurta: Egg
Zeytin: Olive
Et: meat (this definition might not include
Yağ:Oil/Fat
chicken sometimes)
Useful expressions
Kolay gelsin: May it come easy (Said to any person involved in some kind of work)
Elinize sağlık: Health to your hands (Said to the person who made/created something. Most
often to the cook)
Çok yaşayın: Bless you (Said to the sneezing person. The reply is: Siz de görün)
Afiyet olsun: Bon appetite/Enjoy your meal
Şerefe: Cheers
Geçmişolsun:Getwellsoon
Hayırlı olsun: Let it serve you well (Said as a compliment to a person who got somethng new)
Hayırlı işler: Wishing a rewarding work upon someone
İyi şanslar: Good luck
İyi yolculuklar: Have a nice trip
İyi tatiller: Have a nice holiday
Doğum günün kutlu olsun: Happy birthday
Tebrikler: Congratulations
Arranged by Türkçe Atölyesi
Fourth edition, May 2014
Free distribution
Thanks to everyone who made Hike East
possible, especially to all of the awesome Hike
East partners throughout Turkey and Georgia
who have offered discounts to our readers!
The contents of this guide have been
assembled in good faith and with every
possible attempt at accuracy. We apologize for
any accidental errors contained in its pages.
To take the discounts in this
booklet, please make sure
your copy is signed by the
partner you take it or at least
partner’s name written on the
back cover!
All rights reserved.
Contact the Hike East team!
Asmalımescit St. No. 29 / 4, Beyoğlu, İstanbul
+90 212 245 09 88
[email protected]
www.hikeast.com
Credits
İlker Bayraktar (Project Manager)
SierraHunt,IsadoraBilancino(ContentWriter)
Çağatay Apaydın (Graphic Design)
Lityum Ltd. (Web Design)
Special Thank To
Celal Akata
Marion Howa
Julia Kotowski
CevdetOğuz
Chillout Hostels
Ali R. Aassi
ESN Turkey
OZA
Hike East is your free guide to all the best that
Turkey has to offer. Trek along some of the
most spectacular long-distance trails on earth,
check out ancient ruins and magnificent
geological formations, or explore huge and
endlessly fascinating İstanbul. It’s all right
here, including countless discounts and special
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