autumn migration in hungary - Victor Emanuel Nature Tours

AUTUMN MIGRATION IN HUNGARY
AUGUST 30–SEPTEMBER 11, 2014
BEARDED REEDLING BY BRIAN GIBBONS
LEADERS: BRIAN GIBBONS & ATTILA STEINER
COMPILED BY: BRIAN GIBBONS
VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC.
2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003
AUSTIN, TX 78746
AUTUMN MIGRATION IN HUNGARY
August 30–September 11, 2014
By Brian Gibbons
VENT’s first Hungary tour in a decade was a great success. Bustards, four species of eagles,
falcons, nine species of woodpeckers, waders, ducks, owls, and the delightful Bearded Reedling
all rounded out our list of 167 species. The weather was mild and we could have used a little
more sun, but the gray skies made birding the steppe habitat more tolerable after early morning.
The fields of Kiskunság revealed amazing numbers of Eurasian Marsh-Harriers staging before
their southbound migration. Fish ponds produced myriad waterfowl sightings, waders, and
herons. In the fields of Hortobágy we enjoyed Common Cranes, fields of geese, and many raptor
sightings; we even had a chance to study, in the hand, many of the sneaky warbler migrants we
were seeking at the banding station there. The lovely beech and oak forests of Bükk National
Park hosted many new birds for us. All these wonderful sightings were bookended by the lovely
city of Budapest and excellent food throughout.
Parliament Building, Budapest, Hungary © Brian Gibbons
Kiskunság National Park, just an hour outside of Budapest, is composed of a variety of habitats:
steppe, agricultural fields, pasture, and fish ponds. We enjoyed our only looks at a family group
of Eurasian Thick-Knees in an otherwise bare dirt field. Red-backed Shrikes seemed to be
stationed on every roadside bush. Short-toed Eagle, Pallid and Montagu’s harriers, White-tailed
Eagles, Red-footed Falcon, and Eurasian Kestrels were just a few of the raptors that terrified the
mice, voles, and grasshoppers of Kiskunság. At the Forster Palace Hotel we enjoyed the birdy
gardens each morning. A couple of woodpeckers were highlights there: our first Syrian
Woodpecker and Guy’s sighting of a fabulous Black Woodpecker that allowed scope views for
everyone (and enough time for me to run back to my room to fetch the camera before it
departed). In a small irrigation canal we had great looks at Water Rails and a Little Bittern,
usually sneaky birds that were out on the edge for us to see on a rainy morning. Tits, warblers,
treecreepers, and lots of finches also roamed the gardens. Near the fish ponds we had our only
sighting of European Honey-buzzard—a couple of migrant birds moving south; this odd raptor
hunts for subterranean Hymenopteran nests to feed on the larvae! We also found a flooded field
that for more than an hour kept producing new birds for us: Spotted Flycatcher, Marsh
Sandpiper, Wood Sandpiper, Common Snipe, Black-winged Stilt, Spotted Redshank, and Little
Egret among others. Nearby we also tallied Red-crested Pochard, Ferruginous Ducks, a lone
Tufted Duck, and Great Crested Grebes with full-sized young still begging. Storks were still
around after summer breeding; we saw a few White Storks and several Black Storks. We also
admired the horns of the Hungarian Gray Cattle and the Water Buffaloes. These animals are
integral parts of the steppe, maintaining the open habitats that benefit the birds and other steppe
inhabitants. On our way to Hortobágy National Park we stopped by an old oxbow lake of the
river Tisza; here we had our first Eurasian Spoonbills and perched views of White-tailed Eagles.
We also acquired some fine plums, thanks to
Guy.
Black Woodpecker © Brian Gibbons
The legendary Hortobágy lived up to its reputation as Hungary’s best birding location. We saw
shorebirds, waders, raptors, and songbirds everywhere we went. Just across the street from the
Visitor Center we found a roosting Long-eared Owl that glared at us with orange eyes as we
gawked. Little did we know that after lunch Attila would take us to a known roosting area where
we quickly found 19 of these orange-eyed hunters. We made a couple of visits to a draining fish
pond that was a shorebird hotspot. Here we found 15 species of shorebirds: Common and Littleringed plovers, Red Knot, three rare Broad-billed Sandpipers, Temminck’s and Little stints,
Common Sandpipers, Eurasian Curlews, and our only Black-tailed Godwit. One morning we
hiked into a staging area for Eurasian Dotterels; we finally caught up with them after wandering
the grasslands for well over a mile. They are staging and molting here and will aggregate for
another couple of months before heading south. Other birds that we saw along the way included
European Roller, European Bee-eaters, Eurasian Golden Oriole, Eurasian Nuthatch, the
charming Black Redstart, and several species of warblers. One evening, as we wound our way
through Hortobágy, we ended up in Ohat with its ruined barns, houses, and sheds. Here we found
a Little Owl rousing itself for the evening hunt. We had a closer look at perched Saker Falcons at
Little Hortobágy on our final morning just after we scoped Imperial Eagle for the first time. We
also enjoyed birding right around the hotel; these walks produced Eurasian Wryneck, a very odd
woodpecker; Great Reed Warbler; Whiskered Tern; Common Kingfisher; Squacco Herons; and
Great Spotted Woodpecker.
Long-eared Owl © Brian Gibbons
The Bükk hills were a wonderful change from the wide-open spaces of the plains. Enormous
oaks and beech trees dominated the forests in this area. With these new habitats came new birds.
Gray Wagtail, Marsh Tit, Little Spotted Woodpecker, European Robin, and many more were
sighted in Noszvaj right around the hotel. When we ventured further afield we encountered
White-backed Woodpecker in the Hor Valley, Eurasian Wren, Rock Bunting, Firecrest, Eurasian
and Short-toed treecreepers, Yellowhammers, and Lesser Spotted Eagle. Birds were not our only
quarry. One evening we endeavored in wine tasting with our evening meal. At Thummerer
winery we toured the cellar and then enjoyed six wines and an amazing meal of lamb and goose.
In this region the cellars are carved into the volcanic tufa and provide an exceptional
environment for aging wines. The Bull’s Blood, a blended red, was perhaps our favorite since it
is a specialty of Hungary.
Bearded Reedling pair © Brian Gibbons
A highlight for everyone was the evening on the Bükk Plateau. A beautiful afternoon with blue
skies and just a hint of autumn chill in the air welcomed us to the forest-lined meadows where
we would wait for our prize. Willow Tits largely escaped our gaze, but we had some more
cooperative Goldcrests and jays. For the most part we just waited in this gorgeous setting for
nightfall and the crepuscular creatures that venture forth with darkness. First a Common Noctule,
a large bat, crossed the darkening sky. We started our scanning in earnest, watching the edge of
the meadows for the form of the Ural Owl. The large meadow where we had spent the evening
failed to produce our prize so we moved to the next meadow, urgency in our steps as the full
moon had risen and evening light was fast failing. The next meadow provided a wonderful sunset
but no owl. Finally in the last meadow, darkness upon us and mist moving in, Attila said, “There
it is!” The bird obliged; it flew towards us and landed in a cedar tree, gave us quick scope views,
and then moved to the top of the tree where, with the last bit of evening light illuminating its
shape with a halo, it sat for us to admire. I waved frantically to those still meandering toward us
so they could get views before the moon would be the only light. We all had multiple views as
the bird flew to the top of an old barn, made a dive at a lucky vole, and then moved into the
forest—hooting at us, wishing us well. The exceptional city of Budapest, historical city of Eger,
the wine cellar, delicious Hungarian meals, beautiful countryside, and many great bird sightings
made this tour of three national parks a triumph.
Meadow where a few hours later we would delight in the Ural Owl © Brian Gibbons
ITINERARY
8-31 Afternoon Kiskunsag NP northern areas, Bugyi is the village name
9-1 Bugyi village Hotel Forster Palace Hotel, Kiskunsag NP northern areas again and new areas around fish
pond, Apaj area
9-2 Bugyi village Kiskunsag NP, Fish Ponds at Apaj
9-3 Bugyi village Forster Palace Hotel, Tiszaalpar lunch at the oxbow lake, Hortobagy NP
9-4 Tisza Reservoir, Hortobagy Eurasian Dotterel trek called Szalkahalom, lunch, Long-eared Owl town
Balmazujvaros, Little Owl in Ohat, Fenyes fish ponds
9-5 Hortobagy NP fish ponds
9-6 Little Hortobagy Imperial Eagle hunt, Hor Valley reservoir, Noszvaj
9-7 Nomad Grounds and Noszvaj, Bukk hills White-backed Woodpecker search atTamasKutja, afternoon in
oak meadow which was slow Hidegkutlaposa
9-8 Hor Valley & Quarry along way, Afternoon and evening for Ural Owl Bukk Plateau by the Italian Gate
1918
9-9 Nomad Grounds, Hor Valley Quarry, afternoon Eger tour
9-10 Nomad Grounds and Noszvaj, Hor Valley Reservoir, lunch in Budapest, afternoon city tour
CODES: K - Kiskunság National Park, H - Hortobágy National Park, B - Bükk National Park
BIRDS
Ducks, Geese & Waterfowl
Graylag Goose
Mute Swan
Anatidae
Anseranser
Cygnus olor
K, H common in the steppe
K, H fairly common in the steppe
Whooper Swan
Gadwall
Eurasian Wigeon
Mallard
Northern Shoveler
Garganey
Green-winged (Common) Teal
Red-crested Pochard
Common Pochard
Ferruginous Duck
Tufted Duck
Pheasants, Grouse & Allies
Ring-necked Pheasant (I)
Grebes
Little Grebe
Great Crested Grebe
Eared Grebe
Storks
Black Stork
White Stork
Cormorants & Shags
Great Cormorant
Pygmy Cormorant
Herons, Egrets & Bitterns
Great Bittern
Little Bittern
Gray Heron
Purple Heron
Great Egret
Little Egret
Squacco Heron
Black-crowned Night-Heron
Ibises & Spoonbills
Eurasian Spoonbill
Osprey
Osprey
Hawks, Eagles & Kites
European Honey-buzzard
Short-toed Eagle
Lesser Spotted Eagle
Imperial Eagle
Eurasian Marsh-Harrier
Pallid Harrier
Montagu's Harrier
Eurasian Sparrowhawk
Northern Goshawk
White-tailed Eagle
Common Buzzard
Bustards
Great Bustard
Cygnus Cygnus
Anasstrepera
AnasPenelope
Anasplatyrhynchos
Anasclypeata
Anasquerquedula
Anascrecca
Nettarufina
Aythyaferina
Aythyanyroca
Aythyafuligula
H a rarity this early
K, H fairly common in the steppe
H one seen
K, H & B common
K, H fairly common
H one female seen well
K, H common
K fishponds
K, H small numbers around fish ponds
K, H small numbers around fish ponds
K, H
Phasianidae
Phasianuscolchicus
K, H Common in the agricultural areas
Podicipedidae
Tachybaptusruficollis
Podicepscristatus
Podicepsnigricollis
H
K, H fishponds, large juvs still begging
H, Hor Valley, usually distant
Ciconiidae
Ciconianigra
Ciconiaciconia
K, H seen daily in the steppe
K a few remaining summer birds
Phalacrocoracidae
Phalacrocoraxcarbo
Phalacrocoraxpygmaeus
K, H around fish ponds
K, H around fish ponds
Ardeidae
Botaurusstellaris
Ixobrychusminutus
Ardeacinerea
Ardeapurpurea
Ardea (Egretta) alba
Egrettagarzetta
Ardeolaralloides
Nycticoraxnycticorax
K 1 flushed seen by a few lucky folks
K, H good looks several times
K, H, B seen every day in the steppe
K, H a few seen in marshy areas
K, H fairly common
K, H fairly common
Tisza Reservoir, H
Tisza Reservoir
Threskiornithidae
Platalealeucorodia
Tiszaalpar, H
Pandionidae
Pandion haliaetus
K, H a couple quick sightings
Accipitridae
Pernisapivorus
Circaetusgallicus
Clangapomarina
Aquila heliaca
Circus aeruginosus
Circus macrourus
Circus pygargus
Accipiter nisus
Accipiter gentilis
Haliaeetusalbicilla
Buteo buteo
K fishponds 2 flew right overhead
K, H usually quite distant
B we watched one stalk and catch a vole
H finally decent scoped views & flying
K, H abundant!
K, H a couple distant males
K decent looks at a few birds
K, H, B Seen almost daily
H fishponds quick looks at a distant bird
K, H great bird seen several times
Seen daily
Otididae
Otis tarda
K decent scoped views
Rails, Gallinules & Coots
Water Rail
Eurasian (Common) Moorhen
Eurasian Coot
Cranes
Common Crane
Thick-knees
Eurasian Thick-knee (Stone Curlew)
Plovers & Lapwings
Northern Lapwing
Common Ringed Plover
Little Ringed Plover
Eurasian Dotterel
Stilts & Avocets
Black-winged Stilt
Sandpipers & Allies
Common Sandpiper
Green Sandpiper
Spotted Redshank
Common Greenshank
Marsh Sandpiper
Wood Sandpiper
Eurasian Curlew
Black-tailed Godwit
Ruddy Turnstone
Red Knot
Broad-billed Sandpiper
Little Stint
Temminck's Stint
Dunlin
Curlew Sandpiper
Ruff
Common Snipe
Gulls, Terns & Skimmers
Black-headed Gull
Yellow-legged Gull
Caspian Gull
White-winged Tern
Whiskered Tern
Common Tern
Pigeons & Doves
Rock (Feral) Pigeon (I)
Common Wood-Pigeon
European Turtle-Dove
Eurasian Collared-Dove
Cuckoos
Commom Cuckoo
Owls
Little Owl
Ural Owl
Rallidae
Rallusaquaticus
Gallinulachloropus
Fulicaatra
Great looks in a ditch near Forster Palace
K, H
K, H
Gruidae
H
Grus grus
Burhinidae
Burhinusoedicnemus
K our first afternoon outing, scoped
Charadriidae
Vanellusvanellus
Charadriushiaticula
Charadriusdubius
Charadriusmorinellus
K, H Common in open fields
H at the drying fish pond
K, H at the drying fish pond
H on the trek, with mascot!
Recurvirostridae
Himantopushimantopus
K fishponds
Scolopacidae
Actitishypoleucos
Tringaochropus
Tringaerythropus
Tringanebularia
Tringastagnatilis
Tringaglareola
Numeniusarquata
Limosalimosa
Arenariainterpres
Calidriscanutus
Limicolafalcinellus
Calidrisminuta
Calidristemminckii
Calidrisalpina
Calidrisferruginea
Philomachuspugnax
Gallinagogallinago
K, H, fairly common
K one flushed
K, H winter plumage
K, H
K
K, H
K, H best at drying fish ponds at H
H at the drying fish pond
H at the drying fish pond
H at the drying fish pond, juv
H at the drying fish pond 3 birds! Rare
H at the drying fish pond
H at the drying fish pond
H at the drying fish pond, Hor Valley Reservoir
Hor Valley Reservoir, distant
H at the drying fish ponds
K, H
Laridae
Chroicocephalusridibundus
Larusmichahellis
Laruscachinnans
Chlidoniasleucopterus
Chlidoniashybrida
Sterna hirundo
K, H Common in the steppe
Budapest, K, H
Budapest, K, H
H at the drying fish ponds
Tisza Reservoir, H
Hor Valley Reservoir
Columbidae
Columba livia
Columba palumbus
Streptopeliaturtur
Streptopeliadecaocto
Daily
Daily
Daily in the steppe
Daily
Cuculidae
Cuculuscanorus
K one near the fish ponds
Strigidae
Athenenoctua
Strixuralensis
Ohat one bird in the ruined farm buildings
Bukk Plateau, wonderful experience
Long-eared Owl
Kingfishers
Common Kingfisher
Bee-eaters
European Bee-eater
Rollers
European Roller
Woodpeckers
Eurasian Wryneck
Lesser Spotted Woodpecker
Middle Spotted Woodpecker
White-backed Woodpecker
Great Spotted Woodpecker
Syrian Woodpecker
Black Woodpecker
Green Woodpecker
Gray-faced Woodpecker
Falcons & Caracaras
Eurasian Kestrel
Red-footed Falcon
Eurasian Hobby
Saker Falcon
Shrikes
Red-backed Shrike
Lesser Gray Shrike
Old World Orioles
Eurasian Golden Oriole
Crows, Jays & Magpies
Eurasian Jay
Eurasian Magpie
Eurasian Jackdaw
Rook
Hooded Crow
Common Raven
Bearded Reedling
Bearded Reedling (Tit)
Larks
Crested Lark
Sky Lark
Swallows
Bank Swallow (Sand Martin)
Barn Swallow
Common House-Martin
Chickadees & Tits
Marsh Tit
Willow Tit
Coal Tit
Great Tit
Eurasian Blue Tit
Penduline-Tits
H office & Balmazujvaros amazing roost!
Asiootus
Alcedinidae
K, Tisza Reservoir & H
Alcedoatthis
Meropidae
Meropsapiaster
K, H fairly common in open country
Coraciidae
Coraciasgarrulus
K, H
Picidae
Jynxtorquilla
Dendrocopos minor
Dendrocoposmedius
Dendrocoposleucotos
Dendrocopos major
Dendrocopossyriacus
Dryocopusmartius
Picusviridis
Picuscanus
Tisza Balneum Hotel, amazing scope views
B, always heard or flying over or glimpsed
Noszvaj & B Hills area
Hor Valley
The common woodpecker
Forster Palace Hotel
Forster Palace Hotel, excellent looks
K, B
Flyover in Noszvaj
Falconidae
Falco tinnunculus
Falco vespertinus
Falco subbuteo
Falco cherrug
Common in the open country
K, H beautiful little falcon
K, H
K, H distant views of this awesome predator
Laniidae
Laniuscollurio
Lanius minor
Common in the open country
K, H
Oriolidae
Oriolusoriolus
K, H & a male at Tisza Reservoir
Corvidae
Garrulusglandarius
Pica pica
Corvusmonedula
Corvusfrugilegus
Corvuscornix
Corvuscorax
Common all over, hard to see well
Common in the open country
Most numerous at H
K, H
K, H
Bukk Hills
Panuridae
Panurusbiarmicus
H, excellent looks
Alaudidae
Galeridacristata
Alaudaarvensis
H, seen a few times
K, H seen a few times, usually flying
Hirundinidae
Ripariariparia
Hirundorustica
Delichonurbicum
K, H huge movement seen at H 1000's
Common seen daily
Common seen daily
Paridae
Poecilepalustris
Poecilemontanus
Periparusater
Parus major
Cyanistescaeruleus
Remizidae
Noszvaj & B Hills area
Bukk Plateau, tough to see well
Forster Palace, Bukk Hills
Common seen daily
Common seen daily
Eurasian Penduline-Tit
Long-tailed Tits
Long-tailed Tit
Nuthatches
Eurasian Nuthatch
Treecreepers
Eurasian Treecreeper
Short-toed Treecreeper
Wrens
Eurasian Wren
Kinglets
Goldcrest
Firecrest
Leaf-Warblers
Willow Warbler
Common Chiffchaff
Wood Warbler
Reed-Warblers & Allies
Icterine Warbler
Sedge Warbler
Eurasian Reed-Warbler
Great Reed-Warbler
Sylviids, Parrotbills& Allies
Blackcap
Garden Warbler
Greater Whitethroat
Lesser Whitethroat
Old World Flycatchers
Spotted Flycatcher
European Robin
Common Nightingale
European Pied Flycatcher
Black Redstart
Whinchat
European Stonechat
Northern Wheatear
Thrushes & Allies
Eurasian Blackbird
Fieldfare
Song Thrush
Starlings
European Starling
Wagtails & Pipits
Western Yellow Wagtail
Gray Wagtail
White Wagtail
Tawny Pipit
Tree Pipit
Buntings & New World Sparrows
Yellowhammer
Remizpendulinus
K fishponds, H
Aegithalidae
Aegithaloscaudatus
Forster Palace, Bukk Hills
Sittidae
Sittaeuropaea
K, H but most numerous in Bukk Hills
Certhiidae
Certhiafamiliaris
Certhiabrachydactyla
Bukk Hills
Forster Palace, Bukk Hills
Troglodytidae
Troglodytes troglodytes
Bukk Hills
Regulidae
Regulusregulus
Regulusignicapilla
Bukk Plateau
Hor Valley
Phylloscopidae
Phylloscopustrochilus
Phylloscopuscollybita
Phylloscopussibilatrix
Common migrant K, H, B
Uncommon migrant K, H, B
Uncommon migrant K, H, B
Acrocephalidae
Hippolaisicterina
Acrocephalusschoenobaenus
Acrocephalusscirpaceus
Acrocephalusarundinaceus
Noszvaj our last morning
Seen at the banding station only
H also at the banding station
Tisza Balneum Hotel
Sylviidae
Sylvia atricapilla
Sylvia borin
Sylvia communis
Sylvia curruca
Common 1-2 seen almost daily
Guy had one at the Nomad Hotel
H, Banding and Little Hortobagy
K, H and banding at H
Muscicapidae
Muscicapastriata
Erithacusrubecula
Lusciniamegarhynchos
Ficedulahypoleuca
Phoenicurusochruros
Saxicolarubetra
Saxicolarubicola
Oenantheoenanthe
K, H Several seen well
Bukk Hills, cute little guy
Guy spotted one at Tisza Balneum Hotel
K, hard to see well
Seen daily, usually on buildings
K, H common in the open country
K, H common in the open country
K, H uncommon in the open country
Turdidae
Turdusmerula
Turduspilaris
Turdusphilomelos
Common seen almost every day
One bird, an early arrival near Forster Palace
H, B most numerous in Noszvaj
Sturnidae
Sturnus vulgaris
Common in huge numbers in the steppe
Motacillidae
Motacillaflava
Motacillacinerea
Motacilla alba
Anthuscampestris
Anthustrivialis
K, H fairly common
Noszvaj at the little pond in town
Common seen almost every day
K, Quick look our first morning
K, H distant looks a few times
Emberizidae
Emberizacitrinella
B scoped on the powerlines
Rock Bunting
Reed Bunting
Corn Bunting
Siskins, Crossbills & Allies
Common Chaffinch
European Greenfinch
European Goldfinch
Eurasian Linnet
Hawfinch
Old World Sparrows
House Sparrow
Eurasian Tree Sparrow
Emberizacia
Emberizaschoeniclus
Emberizacalandra
Hor Valley Quarry
K fish ponds, just 1 sighting
K, H
Fringillidae
Fringillacoelebs
Chloris chloris
Cardueliscarduelis
Cardueliscannabina
Coccothraustescoccothraustes
Common seen daily
Fairly common
Common seen daily
H, B flyovers and scoped birds
K, H, B wonderfully common
Passeridae
Passer domesticus
Passer montanus
Seen almost daily
Common seen daily
MAMMALS & OTHERS
Rabbits & Hares
European Hare
Squirrels
Eurasian Red Squirrel
European Souslik
Dogs
Red Fox
Stoats & Weasels etc.
Stoat
Deer
Roe Deer
Eurasian River Otter
Bat at Tisza
Marsh Frog
Common Noctule Bat
Leporidae
Lepus europaeus
Several seen in the open country
Sciuridae
Sciurus vulgaris
Citelluscitellus
Around the hotels Forster Palace and Nomad
Mostly just the mounds were seen
Canidae
Vulpesvulpes
A few seen in open fields
Mustelidae
Mustelaerminea
Glimpsed by some K
Cervidae
Capreoluscapreolus
Lutralutra
Common in the open country, B too
In the ditch near Forster, K fishponds
H
Bat at Bukk Plateau, Eger