The Girls` Guide to Paris Walking Tour Entire Set!

Transcription

Around the Marais Walking Tour
1
Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.
1
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
cont’d
Place des Vosges – starting point
6 Place des Vosges – Victor Hugo’s house and museum
62 rue St. Antoine – Hotel de Sully
19 Place des Vosges – Ma Bourgogne
8 rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde
9 rue des Francs Bourgeois – Camper
7. 3 rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Theiere
8. 7 rue des Rosiers – Custo*
9. 9 rue des Rosiers – La Marthe*
10. 34 rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel
11. 2 rue des Hospitalieres – St. Gervais – Chez Marianne
12. 27 rue des Rosiers – Sacha Finkelsztajn
2

2
13.
cont’d
31-33 rue des Blancs Manteaux – Les Bains du Marais
14. 56 rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe
14a. 109 rue Vielle du Temple – Breizh Café
15. 75 rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush
16. 64 rue Vieille du Temple – Robert and Louise
17. 72 rue Vieille du Temple – Des Gars
18. 78 rue Vieille du Temple – La Perle
19. 22 rue de la Perle – Consuelo Zoelly
20.
5 rue Thorigny – Musee Picasso**
(The Picasso Museum is temporarily closed for
renovations until 2012.)
3

3
21.
22.
23.
cont’d
29-31 rue de Poitou – Hotel du Petit Moulin
39 rue de Bretagne – Marché Enfants Rouges
13 Blvd. du Temple – Murano Hotel
4

4
This walk is approx. 1.5 miles and will take
you between 1-4 hours depending how
much shopping you do and how long you
linger. The walk begins at the most beautiful square in Paris and lets you wander
around the ancient, adorable streets of the
Marais.
Begin at the 1. Place des Vosges in the 4th.
This square is recognized by most as the oldest
and most beautiful square in Paris. (see 15 must
do’s) The square was built by King Henri IV in
1605 and inaugurated in 1612 for the wedding of
Louis XIII and Anne of Austria. You can spend
some real time here either for a drink, breakfast,
lunch, or dinner, or by visiting the shops and galleries underneath the arches.
In addition there are two museums on the square,
2. Victor Hugo’s house (open daily 10-5:40,
except mondays) at 6 Place des Vosges (01 42 72
10 16) and 3. Hôtel de Sully at 62 rue St. Antoine (01 44 61 20 00), which has beautiful gardens and is a photography museum. Hotel de Sully
was built in 1625 by Architect Jean Androuet Du
Cerceau. And at end: Open everyday. You can
also access the museum from 7 Place des Vosges.
4. Ma Bourgogne at 19 Place des Vosges is a
great place for a quick coffee before you are off
and is open every day from 8am-1am. This is a
quintessential Parisian bistro, not fancy food but
hearty and uncomplicated fare. Heaters are often
turned on so you can sit outside and enjoy the view
of the Place even in winter. A page on everything
Place des Vosges has to offer can be found here.
As you face Pavillon de la Reine, the only hotel on
the square, exit the square to the left and continue
on rue des Francs-Bourgeois to check out the
shops. There are many here we like including
5. Autour du Monde at #8 and #12 rue des
Francs-Bourgeois (you can find those famous
French Bensimon sneakers at the ADM store at
cont’d
#12) and 6. Camper, 9 rue des FrancsBourgeois, for those great walking shoes from
Spain. Turn left on rue Pavée (you can continue
down Francs-Bourgeois but come back for this
turn) and then right on rue des Rosiers. This is a
very famous street in Paris, it is ancient and the
former epicenter of what was primarily a Jewish
neighborhood dating back to the 13th century.
While the area now is terribly trendy, you can still
find synagogues nearby.
There is a great place for tea at 3 rue des Rosiers
named 7. Le Loir dans la Théière, which is
next to Annick Goutal’s perfume shop. This tea
salon also serves scrumptious desserts and lovely
lunches and the atmosphere is relaxed and artsy.
Also we like 8*. Custo at number 7 from Barcelona, for original and very colorful men’s and
women’s shirts.
The very chic 9*. Lamarthe for handbags is
also here at number 9. 10. L’As du Fallafel,
down the street at 34 rue des Rosiers is home to
the most famous falafel in Paris — this is a fun &
cheap take-out lunch. As David Lebovitz says in
his Paris food blog “You can't come to Paris and
not have a falafel at L'As. It just isn't done.”
Continue on down rue des Rosiers, and you’ll
come to 11. Chez Marianne at 2 rue des Hospitalières-St-Gervais on the corner. Chez
Marianne also has falafel plus all the meze you
can eat if you prefer to sit down, and the setting is
more charming than L’As. Note: Falafel places are
often closed on Saturdays and quite busy on Sundays. Save room for the Russian & Jewish pastries across the street at 12. Sacha
Finkelsztajn at 27 rue des Rosiers. At the end
of rue des Rosiers turn right and continue on rue
Vieille-du-Temple.
Rue des Blancs-Manteaux has some cute shops
as well as the 13. Bains du Marais at 31-33
rue des Blancs-Manteaux profiled in the Out of
the Ordinary section. This is the very chic Turk-
2
5

5
ish hammam and spa and is a great place to wind
down after a day of walking through Paris. Hammams, which are similar to a steam room, are all the
rage in Paris. (01 44 61 02 02) Call in advance to
reserve a massage and steam.
Continue along rue Vieille-du-Temple and you’ll cross
rue des Francs-Bourgeois again if you want to check
out some of the shops you missed earlier.
Back on rue Vieille-du-Temple continuing north you’ll
pass 14. Paul & Joe at 56 rue Vieille-du-Temple,
a shop we love for both men and women. Note: if
you are still hungry tuck into 109 rue Vielle du Temple for a scrumptious crepe at 14a. Breizh Café.
This is one of the best creperies in Paris.
15. Manoush at 75 rue Vieille-du-Temple across
the street is worthy of a look. 16. Robert and
Louise at 64 rue Vieille-du-Temple (01 42 78 55 89)
is an excellent restaurant on this street, which is profiled in our Dining section. Check it out and see if
you’d like to come back for dinner. We adore their
steak cooked over the open fire.
17. Des Gars dans la Cuisine is another restaurant a bit further down at 72 rue Vieille-du-Temple
(01 42 74 88 27) that attracts a crowd for its trendy
setting and good eats. Continuing further along you’ll
come to the corner of rue de la Perle and rue Vieilledu-Temple where you’ll find the most popular bar in
the Marais (not counting the gay bars) called 18. La
Perle at 78 rue Vieille- du-Temple profiled in our
Dining section under Bars. Forget getting a table
here at night. Everyone just stands and drinks on the
street hoping to see the models that often frequent
the place.
19. Consuelo Zoelly at 22 rue de la Perle (01 42
cont’d
Museum if you’d like to get some culture in. Take
a right on rue de la Perle and then left on rue de
Thorigny for the Musée Picasso** (The Picasso
Museum is temporarily closed for renovations until
2012.) It’s a small yet very well done museum covering a wide range of his work plus they have some
wonderful photographs of the artist. The mansion
that houses the museum is gorgeous, as is the garden out back. From here exit out to rue de Thorigny
and back to rue Vieille-du-Temple turning left then
left again on rue des Coutures-Saint-Gervais and
then right on rue Vieille-du-Temple. Continue to rue
de Poitou, where you’ll turn left. The street has
many small special shops as well as 21. Christian
Lacroix’s Hôtel du Petit Moulin at 29-31 rue
de Poitou, profiled in our Where To Stay section. Take a peek into the lobby and grab a brochure. Turn right at the end of the street onto rue
Charlot. Continue on Charlot just about to rue de
Bretagne where you’ll see an entrance to the 22.
Marché des Enfants Rouges on your left.
This is the oldest covered market in Paris. This
isn’t a proper food market although there are a
few stalls, but it is a great place to buy a cheap
and excellent lunch if you haven’t already
stopped. Enjoy Moroccan, or excellent Japanese, French, Italian or Caribbean food —
tables abound, but order first from the stalls.
Exit on rue de Bretagne and enjoy strolling
through all the small food vendors on this market
street. Turn right continuing on rue de Bretagne
until you reach rue de Saintonge where you’ll
turn left. Turn left again on rue de Turenne and
right on Charlot until you reach Blvd. du Temple.
If you turn left here you’ll hit the large metro station of République and if you turn right you can
72 09 16) is an American/Swiss designer residing in
Paris. This is her only shop in Paris. We appreciate
her inventive yet very wearable styles.
From here you are very close to the 20. Picasso
3
6

6
take a look at the 23. Murano Hotel at 13
Blvd. du Temple (one of the trendiest places in
Paris). Stop in for a drink if you are dressed for
it. Across the street is the historic Cirque
d’Hiver. Note the interesting architectural detail
on the side of this circular building. Metro home
but be sure to come back to the Marais for dinner one evening or at least drinks — it’s always
a hopping fun place to be at night. You won’t be
far from the Filles du Calvaire metro stop which
is slightly further down south on the Boulevard
du Temple at the corner of rue Filles du Calvaire.
cont’d
du Marais
14a.109 rue Vielle du Temple – Breizh Café
Points of Interest Addresses
20. 5 rue Thorigny – Musee Picasso
21. 29-31 rue de Poitou– Hotel du Petit Moulin
1.
2.
6 Place des Vosges – Victor Hugo’s house and
museum
22. 39 rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants
Rouges
23. 13 Blvd. du Temple – Murano Hotel
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
3 rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Theiere
8.
7 rue des Rosiers – Custo
9.
9 rue des Rosiers – La Marthe
11. 2 rue des Hospitalieres – St. Gervais –
Chez Marianne
13. 31-33 rue des Blancs Manteaux – Les Bains
4
7

7
Through Fashionable Paris
in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn
8
Through Fashionable Paris
in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn
1. Givenchy headquarters, 3, avenue George V, 8e 2. No. 2, avenue Montaigne, 8e 3. Christian Dior, 30, avenue Montaigne, 8e 4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon, 8e 5. Stamp market, near avenue Gabriel, 8e 6. American Embassy, 2, avenue Gabriel, 8e 7. Maxim’s, 3, rue Royale, 8e Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.
9
8. Ritz Hotel, 15, Place Vendôme, 1er 9. Palais Royal, 1er 10. Didier Ludot boutique, Palais Royal, 1er 11. Comédie Française, 1, Place Colette, 1er Through Fashionable Paris
in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn Audrey Hepburn made five films on location in Paris: Funny Face (1957), Love in the Afternoon (1957), Charade (1963), Paris When It Sizzles (1964) and How to Steal a Million (1966). Funny Face was one of the first American films to be shot on location in the city and showcases almost every major tourist attraction. Other films explored some less well known areas. This walk will take you past locations from all five films in the chic 1st and 8th Arrondissements. A list of other locations easily reached by metro or Vélib’ is also included for hard‐core fans. Wear Givenchy. The walk starts at the Alma‐Marceau metro station. Take the exit marked Avenue Montaigne. When you emerge in the Place de l’Alma, keep the Eiffel Tower to your left, and cross the road. Walk up avenue George V to 1. Givenchy headquarters, at No. 3. This was the site of the first meeting between the young Audrey Hepburn and Hubert de Givenchy in 1954. Audrey was about to film Sabrina. Although the movie was shot in Hollywood, it was Hubert de Givenchy who made the glorious dresses that Audrey wears on her return from cooking school in Paris. Okay, no apprentice cook who was the daughter of a chauffeur could really afford to dress like that, but that was 1950s Hollywood fantasy for you. Audrey and Givenchy hit it off from this first meeting, and the rest is history. Retrace your steps toward the metro entrance, and turn left into avenue Montaigne. Cross the road to find 2. No. 2, avenue Montaigne. In Funny Face (1957), this is the scene of the fashion parade for which Audrey is late. The building is not open to the public. Continue up avenue Montaigne, passing the chic Hôtel Plaza‐Athénée with its red awnings on the left. No. 30 avenue Montaigne, is the flagship of 3. Christian Dior. The building can be glimpsed in Paris When It Sizzles (Marlene Dietrich is seen emerging from a white Rolls‐Royce to enter the store). Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.
10
Enjoy the window displays of the many luxury brands located on this street. Continue all the way to the Champs Elysées. Work your way around the Rond‐Point and enter avenue Matignon, which is directly opposite avenue Montaigne. Look for 4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon. This is the supposed location of the room where William Holden is searching for inspiration in Paris When It Sizzles. Cross the road and enter the park. The gardens between the Champs Elysées and Avenue Gabriel feature in both Charade (5. the Stamp Market, which is crucial to the plot, is located here on Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays) and How to Steal a Million (Audrey and Peter O’Toole plot the big heist sitting on a bench here). The tree‐shaded avenue Gabriel passes the palace of the French president and ends at No. 2, or 6. The American Embassy. (There are usually lots of security guards in this area.) The embassy is featured at the beginning and end of Charade. Walter Matthau pretends to work there, but it is Cary Grant who turns out to be the real diplomat. You will emerge into the Place de la Concorde. Walk past the Hôtel Crillon and turn left into rue Royale. Note the Art Nouveau exterior on your left at No. 3, rue Royale. This is 7. Maxim’s, the chic restaurant where Eli Wallach gets very friendly with Audrey in How to Steal a Million. Maxim’s maintains a boutique as well as a restaurant, in case you want a souvenir. Continue to rue St‐Honoré, turn right, and cross the road. Follow rue St‐Honoré (excellent window‐shopping) to No. 362. This is Cour Vendôme. It offers a shortcut to Place Vendôme. When you emerge into the Place, you will see the white awnings of 8. Hotel Ritz on your left at No. 15. The Ritz appears in three of Audrey’s films. The scene in which Audrey drives Peter O’Toole to the hotel in his E‐type Jaguar (she is wearing a fetching combination of nightdress, coat and gumboots) in the middle of the night in How to Steal a Million is a classic. This is also where Gary Cooper hangs out in Love in the Afternoon. And the magazine editor in Funny Face stays at the Ritz. Keeping the hotel on your left, take the road leading out of the Place Vendôme and then turn right into rue Danielle Casanova. This street offers many places to stop for refreshment, or you can buy a sandwich and have a picnic later in the walk, in the gardens of the Palais Royal. Cross avenue de l’Opéra and continue along rue des Petits Champs, which is directly opposite. Note the Passage Choiseul on the left, one of Paris’s many beautiful shopping arcades. Turn right into rue de Richelieu. Look for Passage Beaujolais, which is just a few doors down on the left. Walk through and you will find yourself at the back of 9. Palais Royal. The Palais Royal Theater is directly in front of you. Bear left and look for the archway leading into the Palais Royal colonnade and gardens. The Palais Royal is the site of the cat‐and‐mouse scene at the end of Charade. Audrey is trying to figure out whether Cary Grant or Walter Matthau is the bad guy, and the stark lighting highlights the colonnade and heightens the drama. If you walk the length of the Galerie Montpensier, you will pass the boutique 10. Didier Ludot. This designer has written an entire book on the subject of the little black dress (or LBD). Chanel may have created the original LBD, but Audrey gave it her own style in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Didier Ludot sells vintage haute couture—check to see if there is anything by Givenchy you can try on. At the very end of the colonnade is 11. The Comédie Française, where the bad guy in Charade gets his comeuppance. This is a good place to end the walk or to stop for coffee or a drink. But if you are a diehard Audrey Hepburn fan, you can also explore: 12. Le Cochon à l’Oreille, 15, rue Montmartre, 1er: this is the restaurant in which Walter Matthau and Audrey have a serious talk in Charade. (Metro: Etienne Marcel) 13. Hotel Maxim, 28, rue Censier, 5e: Cary Grant and Audrey spend time here in Charade (it is called the Hôtel St‐Jacques in the film). Several scenes were filmed in this Left Bank neighbourhood. (Metro: Censier‐Daubenton) 14. Musée Cernuschi, 7, avenue Vélasquez, 8e: this is the emptied‐out home to which Audrey returns at the beginning of Charade. (Metro: Monceau) 15. Musée Jacquemart‐André, 158, boulevard Haussmann, 8e: the exterior played the part of the Musée Kléber‐
Lafayette in How to Steal a Million; the interiors, however, were shot in a studio. (Metro: Miromesnil) 16. Palais de Chaillot, 35, avenue Raymond Poincaré, 16e: the Art Deco palace appears in Paris When It Sizzles. (Metro: Trocadéro) 17. Hotel Raphael, 17, avenue Kléber, 16e: Audrey usually stayed in this hotel while filming in Paris. (Metro: Kléber) And, of course, all those familiar sights from Funny Face: the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, the Winged Victory in the Louvre, the Opéra, the Pont des Arts . . . Points of interest addresses: 1. Givenchy headquarters, 3, avenue George V, 8e 2. No. 2, avenue Montaigne, 8e 3. Christian Dior, 30, avenue Montaigne, 8e 4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon, 8e 5. Stamp market, near avenue Gabriel, 8e 6. American Embassy, 2, avenue Gabriel, 8e 7. Maxim’s, 3, rue Royale, 8e 8. Ritz Hotel, 15, Place Vendôme, 1er 9. Palais Royal, 1er 10. Didier Ludot boutique, Palais Royal, 1er 11. Comédie Française, 1, Place Colette, 1er Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.
11
Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille
1
12
1.
Métro St. Paul – starting point
2.
16, rue Pavée – K. Jacques
3.
4.
5.
cont’d
3, rue des Rosiers at rue Pavée – Zadig & Voltaire
3, rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Théière
3 bis, rue des Rosiers – Annick Goutal
6.
7, rue des Rosiers – Custo
7.
34, rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel
8.
2, rue des Hospitalières St.-Gervais – Chez Marianne
9.
47, rue des Francs Bourgeois – MUJI
10.
51, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Antoine & Lili
11.
34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – L’Artisan Parfumeur
12.
56–58, rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe Sister
13.
75, rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush
14.
68, rue Vieille du Temple – Jamin Puech
15.
16.
17.
34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Centre Culturel Suisse
43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Barbara Bui
41–43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Les Petites
18.
33, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Comptoir des Cotonniers
19.
1–3, rue Elzevir – Adolfo Dominguez
20.
21.
22, rue des Francs Bourgeois – BA & SH
20, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Chaise Longue
2
2

13
22.
23, rue de Sévigné – Musée Carnavalet
23.
5, rue de Thorigny – Musée Picasso
24.
23, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Satellite
25.
8, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde
26.
32, rue de Sévigné – Vialis*
27.
17, rue de Sévigné – Capharnaüm
28.
15, rue de Sévigné – Piment Café
29.
20, rue de Sévigné – Losco
30.
31.
cont’d
14, rue de Sévigné – Eric Bompard
12, rue de Sévigné – Matière Première
32.
40, rue de Sévigné – L’Eclaireur
33.
2, Place du Marché Ste. Catherine – Au Bistrot de la Place
34.
19, rue de Turenne – Argenterie de Turenne*
35.
17, rue de Turenne – Baby Beluga
36.
16, rue de Turenne – Anna Kaszer*
37.
18, rue de Turenne – Antik Batik
38.
22, rue de Turenne – Zadig & Voltaire
39.
24, rue de Turenne – Pain de Sucre
41.
36, rue de Turenne – Café Baci
40.
49, rue de Turenne – Café des Musées
3
3

14
42.
112, rue Vieille du Temple – APC
43.
125, rue Vieille du Temple – Abou d’Abi Bazar
44.
22, rue Debelleyme – V & J loungewear
45.
15, rue de Poitou – Shine
46.
24, rue de Poitou – Oxyde
47.
48.
49.
50.
17, rue de Poitou – Avenches*
22, rue de Poitou – Swildens*
24, rue de Poitou – Native Kingdom*
27, rue de Poitou – Violette & Léonie
51.
21, rue de Saintonge – Erik Linz
52.
25, rue de Saintonge – Blanc d’Ivoire
53.
54.
55.
56.
57.
29–31, rue de Poitou – Hôtel du Petit Moulin
33, rue de Poitou – The Collection
44, rue de Poitou – L’Habilleur
25, rue Charlot – Jack Henry
24, rue Charlot – Samy Chalon
58.
29, rue Charlot – Pring
59.
33 and 60, rue Charlot – AB33
60.
38, rue Charlot – Sylvie Arkoun*
61.
62.
63.
64.
cont’d
38, rue de Bretagne – Café Charlot*
37, rue de Bretagne – Café du Marché
39, rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants Rouges
39, rue de Bretagne (within the marché) – L’Estaminet
* Sadly these locations have closed.
4
4

15
This tour will take between two and five
hours depending on how many shops you
visit.
Begin in the Bastille at 1. Métro St. Paul, in the
4th Arrondissement. Turn up rue Pavée, walking
north. 2. K. Jacques at 16, rue Pavée, is a great
stop if you are looking for those quintessential St.
Tropez sandals that have been all the rage for the
last several summers. K. Jacques has been
making them by hand for the past 75 years. Find
3. Zadig & Voltaire on the corner of rue des
Rosiers and Pavée, for a young, hip yet not-tooexpensive look. To the right on Rosiers you’ll find
one of the best tea salons in Paris at 3, rue des
Rosiers, 4. Le Loir dans la Théière, if you
need a cup of tea for fuel or a little snack.
To the left now, continue walking down Rosiers,
taking note of this very historic street. It is one of
the oldest and most historic in Paris. It was and still
is the center of Jewish life, with very trendy boutiques and cafés and the countless tourists who
frequent the area. Some of the buildings here date
back to the 1500s and earlier. 5. Annick Goutal
is at 3 bis, rue des Rosiers (on your left), good for
classic French perfumes with that lovely butterflytopped bottle. After that you’ll find 6. Custo, the
designer from Barcelona known for fun, trendy, colorful shirts as well as other items for men and
women, at 7, rue des Rosiers.
If you are hungry and don’t want to waste time with
a sit-down meal, stop for a falafel at 7. L’As du
Fallafel, at 34, rue des Rosiers (closed Saturdays). Turn right on rue des Hospitalières St.Gervais for 8. Chez Marianne (if you prefer falafel or meze sitting down, this is your stop). Farther down this street you’ll find 9. MUJI, the
Japanese home and clothing store that always has
something affordable, well designed and of inter-
cont’d
est. The main entrance is around the corner on
Francs Bourgeois.
At rue des Francs Bourgeois, turn right and head
toward the Place des Vosges. There are great
shops in both directions; to the left you’ll see 10.
Antoine & Lili, at number 51, great for bright,
colorful bohemian-style frocks made famous by
Madonna (word has it she outfits her kids here),
as well as Zadig & Voltaire, mentioned previously.
To the right you’ll notice 11. L’Artisan Parfumeur at number 34; stop to try on some
scents.
Continue on to the right, heading toward the Place
des Vosges. If you have time for a slight detour,
turn up the road and follow rue Vieille du Temple
north for a block. Within this block you’ll find 12.
Paul and Joe Sister (part of the Paul and Joe
empire), which is toujours chic and totally fabulous
at 56–58, rue Vieille du Temple. Plus, you’ll find
the very girly-girl shop 13. Manoush on the left,
at 75, rue Vieille du Temple. At the end of the
block, on the corner of rue Barbette (number 68),
you’ll enjoy 14. Jamin Puech and their incredible and unique bags.
Turn back around and head back down to rue des
Francs Bourgeois and turn left, heading toward
the Place des Vosges. 15. Centre Culturel
Suisse, at 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois, is good
for a stop if you need some culture. Exhibitions
are free, and there is a lovely little terrace for tea
in good weather. Farther down rue des Francs
Bourgeois, at number 43, you’ll find 16. Barbara Bui, which is always a fashionable outpost.
Pop into 17. Les Petites, at 41–43, rue des
Francs Bourgeois, for a more basic yet still very
fashionable look. You’ll also find 18. Comptoir
des Cotonniers at number 33—a great spot
for affordable, wearable everyday casual clothing.
2
5

16
Head up rue Elzevir if you’d like to stop into 19.
Adolfo Dominguez, at numbers 1–3, for affordable, unmistakably Spanish clothing, including cute
doggie clothes (à la Paris Hilton). If you pick and
choose carefully, you might find a good bargain. Another worthy stop is 20. BA & SH, for midpriced,
slightly bohemian frocks, at 22, rue des Francs
Bourgeois. Check out 21. Chaise Longue at
number 20 for a bit of folly if you are looking for a
gift for a friend with a sense of humor.
Stop in for a break from shopping and a dose of culture at 22. Musée Carnavalet (23, rue de Sévigné; 01 44 59 58 58). Chronicling the history of
Paris is the purpose of Carnavalet, but its exquisite
walled garden is what you’ll remember—plus, it’s
free! 23. Musée Picasso, nearby at 5, rue de
Thorigny, is divine and very doable in a short time
frame (but at present is closed for renovations;
check website first).
Farther down Francs Bourgeois, 24. Satellite
does fun, affordable costume jewelry, which may be
a bit colorful for some, at 23, rue des Francs Bourgeois. 25. Autour du Monde, at number 8
(corner of Sévigné), is one of our favorite stores in
town, combining home and fashion—one can always find something great here. Turn right on rue de
Sévigné, where you’ll discover 26. Vialis* at
number 32, with their reasonable leather walking
shoes and heels from Spain (they are truly comfortable—a real necessity in Paris).
27. Capharnaüm, at 17, rue de Sévigné, is a
place where teens and twentysomethings will find
reason to splurge. 28. Piment Café is a hole-inthe-wall bar that we love, at number 15, and a great
stop post-shop. 29. Losco, at 20, rue de Sévigné,
is fun if you want to create your own belt. All you do
is pick out the width and the type of leather and then
fit it to the buckle of your choice. We’ve had a lot of
fun in here. 30. Eric Bompard, at 14, rue de
cont’d
Sévigné, has nice cashmere that isn’t terribly
pricey (for cashmere, that is), and it’s well done.
31. Matière Première, at 12, rue de Sévigné, is one of those places where you can create
your own jewelry with beads—a perfect afternoon
activity if you are with a teen or a creative type.
On the other end of Sévigné 32. L’Eclaireur
has recently opened a cool new outpost at number 40— this is one of the Girls’ Guide’s favorite
shops in Paris. There are several more throughout the city. L’Eclaireur, owned by Martine and
Armand Hadida, is always cutting edge, marrying
fashion, furniture and design. Be prepared to pay
for Dries Van Noten, Comme des Garçons and
the like, but their eye is artistic, sexy and always
au courant.
Now turn around and go back to rue de Jarente,
south of Francs Bourgeois, just off of Sévigné.
Turn left and quickly you’ll come to rue Caron,
and if you turn right you’ll see the adorable Place
du Marché Ste. Catherine. You can choose one
of the cafés here for lunch. 33. Au Bistrot de
la Place, at number 2 on the place, is fairly
good for a salad or something light.
Now coming out of the place, go back to Jarente
and follow it until it ends at rue de Turenne,
where you’ll turn left. Here at number 19 you’ll
find an old silver shop by the name of 34. Argenterie de Turenne* — pop in if you are in
the market for silver. After this shop, on the same
side of the street you’ll see two darling baby
shops, if you need a gift. One has no name, and
the other, at number 17, is called 35. Baby Beluga, perfect for that terribly chic, hip baby in
your life. You can find interesting canvas bags at
16, rue de Turenne, in 36. Anna Kaszer. And
then you’ll see 37. Antik Batik at number 18,
the famous bohemian fashion stop and a perennial favorite. You can probably find this store at
home, however. Then you’ll find another 38.
Zadig & Voltaire at 22, rue de Turenne, if you
3
6

17
didn’t stop before.
Here, turn down Francs Bourgeois again if you’d
like to peek in at the oldest and loveliest square in
Paris, the Place des Vosges, turn right. Continuing now back up Turenne, you’ll see 39. Pain
de Sucre, which offers some nice bathing suits
and lingerie that isn’t too wild or ridiculously expensive. If you haven’t eaten yet and you didn’t stop at
Place Catherine, you can nourish yourself now at
41. Café Baci, at 36, or 40. Café des
Musées, at 49, rue de Turenne. After that the surroundings get a bit pedestrian, but never fear, you
are hoofing it to the haute Marais, which is quieter
and our favorite part. The upper Marais is filled with
extremely original small shops and designers.
Turn left when you reach rue Debelleyme, and stay
to the right as the road forks, making sure to stay
on Debelleyme. At corner of Vieille du Temple,
you’ve got 42. APC at number 112, rue Vieille du
Temple—pop in for perfect jeans and other musthaves. Turn right on Vieille du Temple and you’ll
find 43. Abou d’Abi Bazar, at 125, rue Vieille
du Temple, with their simple, elegant clothing. Turn
here on rue de Poitou. You’ll find a fabulous sleepand loungewear store called 44. V & J loungewear at 22, rue Debelleyme (on the corner of Poitou). Nearby 45. Shine, at 15, rue de Poitou, offers a nice mix of name designers. 46. Oxyde, at
24, rue de Poitou, has fresh, casual style, and 47.
Avenches*, at number 17, has very interesting
one-of-a-kind jewelry. 48. Swildens*, at number
22, is a shop specializing in a very downtown look.
À la Carte has fabulous necklaces with vintage
watches. 49. Native Kingdom* was another
spectacular kidswear shop (unfortunately now
closed). 50. Violette & Léonie, at number 27,
sells killer vintage clothing, shoes and jewelry. We
love rue de Poitou!
Continue down the road, turning right on rue de
Saintonge. Here at number 21 you’ll find designer
51. Erik Linz’s creations, which are beautiful,
cont’d
unique and handmade. 52. Blanc d’Ivoire,
at 25, rue de Saintonge, is the perfect place to
outfit the French home, or the American one! We
like their candlesticks, their silver globes and
their luxurious comforters. Back down on Poitou,
have a look into Christian Lacroix’s hotel, 53.
Hôtel du Petit Moulin, at 29–31, rue de Poitou, which is très chic and unique. Farther down,
54. the Collection, at number 33, offers the
most interesting wallpaper we’ve ever seen—
truly worth lugging back. 55. L’Habilleur, at
number 44, is good if you’d like to browse a mix
of designers (Paul and Joe, Michel Klein) or
items with a Moroccan touch.
Turning right on rue Charlot, you’ll find 56.
Jack Henry at number 25, with spiffy Englishstyle clothing by an American designer. 57.
Samy Chalon, at number 24, has colorful and
well-designed dresses and other pieces. 58.
Pring, at 29, rue Charlot, has wildly over-thetop shoes. 59. AB33, at numbers 33 and 60, is
a very understated fashion outpost with an LA
feel. Simple, elegant jewelry with a modern bent
can be found online at 60. Sylvie Arkoun*.
Once you reach the corner of Charlot and rue de
Bretagne, top off your marathon day of shopping
with a drink at 61. Café Charlot*, 38, rue de
Bretagne, or 62. Café du Marché, 37, rue
de Bretagne, and watch the afternoon/evening
crowd walk by. Alternatively, go into the everadorable 63. Marché des Enfants
Rouges, which is across the street from the
cafés (open late on Thursday nights), and have
a mint tea and some Moroccan sweets at one of
their outdoor tables. We also love 64. L’Estaminet, within the marché at 39, rue de Bretagne. Divine! At the end of your long shopping
tour of the Marais treat yourself to a taxi back
home or continue on rue Bretagne heading east,
turn left at rue Filles du Calvaire to find the
metro stop of the same name.
4
7

18
cont’d
31. 40, rue de Sévigné – L’Eclaireur
1.
Métro St. Paul – starting point
2.
16, rue Pavée – K. Jacques
3.
3, rue des Rosiers at rue Pavée – Zadig & Voltaire
4.
3, rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Théière
5.
3 bis, rue des Rosiers – Annick Goutal
6.
7, rue des Rosiers – Custo
7.
34, rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel
8.
2, rue des Hospitalières St.-Gervais – Chez
Marianne
9.
47, rue des Francs Bourgeois – MUJI
32. 2, Place du Marché Ste. Catherine – Au Bistrot
de la Place
33. 19, rue de Turenne – Argenterie de Turenne
34. 17, rue de Turenne – Baby Beluga*
35. 16, rue de Turenne – Anna Kaszer
36. 18, rue de Turenne – Antik Batik
37. 22, rue de Turenne – Zadig & Voltaire
38. 24, rue de Turenne – Pain de Sucre
39. 49, rue de Turenne – Café des Musées
40. 36, rue de Turenne – Café Baci
41. 112, rue Vieille du Temple – APC
10. 51, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Antoine & Lili
42. 125, rue Vieille du Temple – Abou d’Abi Bazar
11. 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – L’Artisan
Parfumeur
43. 22, rue Debelleyme – V & J loungewear
12. 56–58, rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe Sister
45. 24, rue de Poitou – Oxyde
13. 75, rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush
46. 17, rue de Poitou – Avenches
14. 68, rue Vieille du Temple – Jamin Puech
47. 22, rue de Poitou – Swildens*
15. 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Centre Culturel
Suisse
48. 24, rue de Poitou – Native Kingdom*
16. 43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Barbara Bui
17. 41–43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Les Petites
18. 33, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Comptoir des
Cotonniers
44. 15, rue de Poitou – Shine
49. 27, rue de Poitou – Violette & Léonie*
50. 21, rue de Saintonge – Erik Linz
51. 25, rue de Saintonge – Blanc d’Ivoire
52. 29–31, rue de Poitou – Hôtel du Petit Moulin
19. 1–3, rue Elzevir – Adolfo Dominguez
53. 33, rue de Poitou – The Collection
20. 22, rue des Francs Bourgeois – BA & SH
54. 44, rue de Poitou – L’Habilleur
21. 20, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Chaise Longue
55. 25, rue Charlot – Jack Henry
22. 23, rue de Sévigné – Musée Carnavalet
56. 24, rue Charlot – Samy Chalon
23. 5, rue de Thorigny – Musée Picasso
57. 29, rue Charlot – Pring
24. 23, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Satellite
58. 33 and 60, rue Charlot – AB33
25. 8, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde
59. 38, rue Charlot – Sylvie Arkoun*
26. 17, rue de Sévigné – Capharnaüm*
60. 38, rue de Bretagne – Café Charlot*
27. 15, rue de Sévigné – Piment Café
61. 37, rue de Bretagne – Café du Marché*
28. 20, rue de Sévigné – Losco
62. 39, rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants
Rouges
29. 14, rue de Sévigné – Eric Bompard
30. 12, rue de Sévigné – Matière Première
63. 39, rue de Bretagne (within the marché) –
L’Estaminet
5
8

19
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
20
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
Cont.
1. Rue du Faubourg du Temple
and the quai de Jemmapes
2. La Marine
3. Chez Prune
4. Jours de Fête
5.
6.
7.
8.
L’Hôpital Saint-Louis
Le Cambodge
Philou
Marty Tattoo
21
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
Cont.
9. Square Sainte-Marthe
10. La Sardine
11. Le Galopin
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
Pink Flamingo
La Chambre aux Oiseaux
Pop Market
Graffiti by Chanoir
La Cantine de Quentin
Vintage Fripes et Objets
L’Hôtel du Nord
Le Citizen
Bleuet Coquelicot
Carmen Ragosta
Ethicando
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
Bensimon
Artazart
Boulanger et Pâtisserie
Fuxia
Le Petite Focan
La Piñata
La Galerie Végétal
Philippe le Libraire
Sol Semilla
22
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
32.
33.
34.
35.
Cont.
Atelier-Galerie
Jardin Villemin
Antoine et Lili
Sandro
36. Marcel
37. Canaletto Caffè
38.
39.
40.
41.
42.
43.
44.
45.
46.
Agnès B.
Les Petites
WeSC
Claudie Pierlot
Maje
APC
Centre Commercial
Du Pain et des Idées
Coin Canal
23
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
47.
48.
49.
50.
51.
52.
53.
54.
55.
56.
57.
58.
Cont.
Alhambra
Agnès B. Homme
Les Chemins Blancs
Renhsen
Bel Air
Ideco
Liza Korn
Cotélac
Bazar Ethic
The Kooples
Ekyog
IKKS
24
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
Note: The canal Saint-Martin area is one of the most
exciting and up-and-coming areas in town. Stroll this
area around the canal at your leisure, as it is chockful of
wonderful restaurants, artistic shops and great graffiti.
The tour should take you 3-4 hours, depending on how
long you linger. Toward the end, you’ll find two streets
filled with designer discount shops. Come back to the
area and take a bike ride along the canal, or consider
doing the entire tour via bike.
Begin at the intersection of 1. rue du Faubourg
du Temple and the quai de Jemmapes. You will
see a beautiful statue of a grisette, a French working-class woman from the late 17th century, on the
left, and facing the canal, you will see a bust of
Frédérick Lemaître, a famous 19th-century Parisian
theatre actor. The canal, which is 4.5 kilometers
(about 3 miles) long and stretches through the 10th
Arrondissement, was commissioned in 1802 by
Napoleon and completed in 1825.
Go up the right, or east, side of the quai de Jemmapes. Walking right along the canal, you’ll see
its different levels. You can take the canal cruise
(http://www.canauxrama.com), but we find it a bit
touristy.
At any point, you can walk over the high bridges,
from where you can enjoy beautiful views and take
a few photos. Along the canal, there are several
restaurants that we like. At the corner of rue Alibert on the left side of the canal is 2. la Marine (55,
quai de Valmy), which is a good place for lunch or
dinner by the second bridge. At the next bridge to
the north, you’ll find 3. Chez Prune (36, rue
Beaurepaire), which is a very trendy, fun place to
go for a drink or dinner. We like the steak frites and
the bohemian atmosphere there. Also, 4. Jours
de Fête, on the right side of the canal (72, quai de
Jemmapes), is a cute tapas place.
Cont.
Continue walking along the canal on the right side
until you reach avenue Richerand. Take a right and
go into the courtyard of 5. l’Hôpital Saint-Louis,
founded in the early 17th century during the reign of
Henri IV, and which is nearly an exact replica of the
Place des Vosges. Before you reach the hospital,
you’ll pass two restaurants on avenue Richerand
that are both recommended by le Fooding. The
first is 6. le Cambodge (10, avenue Richerand),
a Cambodian restaurant; be sure to go early or be
prepared to wait in line. The second is the wellknown wine bar 7. Philou (12, avenue Richerand).
It’s a great place to return to at night or even for
lunch if you can get a reservation.
A couple doors down from Philou on the right side,
you will see 8. Marty Tattoo (16, avenue Richerand). The studio offers gorgeous, artistic tattoos,
and if you are not ready to get a permanent one,
you can get a temporary.
At the end of avenue Richerand, turn right and
you’ll find on your left the entrance to 5. l’Hôpital
Saint Louis, which has a brick facade. Use the
pedestrian entrance (there are two separate doors
to go through before you reach the inside of the
courtyard, and the second is called Porte 11). The
door is shut on Saturday, Sunday and holidays.
Once inside, you’ll quickly notice the resemblance
to the Place des Vosges, but it is infinitely quieter
and more peaceful here.
Walk to the other side and exit on rue Juliette Dodu,
then take a right and walk until the road ends.
Take another right and continue until you reach rue
Saint-Maur, where you’ll turn left. When you reach
rue Sainte-Marthe, turn left again. At the end of
this street, you’ll find the darling 9. Square SainteMarthe, where there are two good restaurants:
10. la Sardine (32, rue Sainte-Marthe) and 11. le
Galopin (34, rue Sainte-Marthe). The first is better
25
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
for drinks and tapas, while the latter is wonderful
for more-upscale French food at a decent price.
Either is worth a return trip for dinner. Reserve
ahead for le Galopin.
Retrace your steps, either going back through
the hospital or around it to end up on rue Bichat.
Turn right if you are exiting the hospital. Down this
street you’ll find the 12. Pink Flamingo (67, rue
Bichat), a fun place for pizza on the corner of rue
Bichat and rue de la Grange aux Belles.
Continue along rue Bichat, where you’ll find 13.
la Chambre aux Oiseaux** (48, rue Bichat),
which is perfect for tea or brunch. Next door, 14.
Pop Market (50, rue Bichat) is filled with small,
fun gifts. As you walk toward the canal, on the
left you’ll discover animal graffiti by the artist 15.
Chanoir; on the right you’ll see 16. la Cantine de
Quentin (52, rue Bichat), which is a great little
wine bar that offers many items to buy or take out,
including foie gras. Follow rue Bichat until it ends
at the canal.
After passing the cat grafitti on your left, turn left
and notice the interesting doors and their handles. Head back south on rue Jemmapes to find
a charming little shop that has a green facade and
the word “Brocante” on it. The store, 17. Vintage
Fripes et Objets (104, quai de Jemmapes),
carries vintage clothing and a few small antiques.
Farther down is 18. l’Hôtel du Nord (102, quai
de Jemmapes), a chic and trendy spot for lunch
or dinner, with candlelit tables, and which is larger
than it appears from the outside. The food is not
amazing, but you can go for the basics and enjoy
the people-watching.
At the corner of the quai de Jemmapes and rue de
la Grange aux Belles is 19. le Citizen** (96, quai
de Jemmapes), a designer boutique hotel we
Cont.
highly recommend. It is an excellent, very affordable place to stay. If you are a fan of florists, take
a left onto rue de la Grange aux Belles and you’ll
discover a particularly lovely one on the right side,
20. Bleuet Coquelicot (10, rue de la Grange aux
Belles). You’ll find delightful items here. Walking
back toward the canal, you’ll notice 21. Carmen
Ragosta (8, rue de la Grange aux Belles), A boutique and restaurant, cleverly satiating two desires
at once! Next door is 22. Ethicando (6, rue de la
Grange aux Belles), a casual Italian concept store/
café/épicerie.
Returning to the quai de Jemmapes, cross over
the canal to reach rue de Lancry. At the corner of
the quai de Valmy, you’ll spot 23. Bensimon and
24. Artazart (both at 83, quai de Valmy). Step
inside Artazart, an art and design bookshop with a
selection of gifts. Bensimon is of course famous for
its French tennis shoes, and at this particular shop
there are also items for children.
Walk down rue de Lancry and check out the 25.
Boulanger et Pâtisserie (58, rue de Lancry) on
the corner, which looks quite charming and sits
across from 26. Fuxia (15, rue Jean Poulmarch),
an Italian chain that’s great for quick salads and
pasta. From Fuxia, if you turn around and take rue
Jean Poulmarch toward the canal, you’ll find more
graffiti.
If you’re interested in gifts for children, walk down
rue des Vinaigriers to 27. le Petite Focan (25, rue
des Vinaigriers). In the same building is 28. la
Piñata, which offers Mexican-inspired items. Next
door is 29. la Galerie Végétal (27, rue des Vinaigriers), a stunning florist that carries small gifts.
Farther down the street is 30. Philippe le Libraire
(32, rue des Vinaigriers), a shop that sells comic
books. A good place to stop for coffee or a healthy
26
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
glass of juice is 31. Sol Semilla (23, rue de Vinaigriers); the purple power mix is recommended.
When you reach rue Lucien Sampaix, turn right,
and then left onto rue des Récollets. Look for the
32. Atelier-Galerie (13, rue des Récollets), the studio
of ceramic artist Emmanuelle Wittmann, where her
pottery is sold and courses are offered.
Continuing along, look for a grand entrance marked
“hôpital militaire Villemin” and enter the 33. Jardin Villemin. The park was created in 1977 on the grounds
of a former military hospital. When you enter the park,
walk to the right along the dirt path and you’ll notice
a beautiful green sculpture. There will also be a sign
for public restrooms. Stay to the right, heading back
toward the canal. On the right side you’ll find a lovely, if
a bit unattended, herb garden.
Exit here, back onto the quai de Valmy. Turn right
and you’ll spot three 34. Antoine et Lili (95, quai de
Valmy) stores with very colorful facades. After stopping in, walk south along the canal past them. Next
you’ll see 35. Sandro (93, quai de Valmy). Much less
colorful and more practical than Antoine et Lili, Sandro
carries men’s and women’s clothes. Continue past the
graffiti and past rue de Lancry until you reach rue de
Marseille. Keep in mind for later two restaurants you’ll
have passed on the other side of the canal: both 36.
Marcel (90, quai de Jemmapes) and 37. Canaletto
Caffè (88, quai de Jemmapes) are good restaurants
with excellent reviews. Turn right on rue de Marseille.
On the right side you’ll quickly see 38. Agnès B. (13,
rue de Marseille) and then 39. les Petites (11, rue de
Marseille), a stock store that offers discounted items.
Next door is 40. WeSC, We Are the Superlative
Conspiracy (9, rue de Marseille), which has primarily
men’s clothes and is worth a look. The 41. Claudie
Pierlot (6, rue de Marseille) stock store offers sophisticated clothing for the fashionable set. Another great
stock-store find is 42. Maje (4, rue de Marseille),
which carries items designed by the much-loved
Cont.
French brand. Farther down is 43. APC (5, rue de
Marseille), which, unfortunately, is not a stock store.
A very unique and well-designed store, 44. Centre
Commercial (2, rue de Marseille) has clothing for
men and women and some vintage furniture. Next
door on the corner, on rue Yves Toudic, is the boulangerie 45. du Pain et des Idées (34, rue Yves
Toudic), which was voted the best boulangerie in
Paris in 2008.
Across the street is 46. Coin Canal (1, rue de
Marseille), a good stop for 20th-century interior
designs. When you reach rue Yves Toudic, turn left
and walk down the street until you see the sign for
47. Alhambra (21, rue Yves Toudic), a theatre
where you can see plays as well as music and
comedy performances. Check to see if there is an
event you’d like to come back for.
At the corner of rue Beaurepaire, you’ll see 48.
Agnès B. Homme (1, rue Dieu). Take a left on
rue Beaurepaire and you’ll find more shopping. For
made-in-France apparel, stop at 49. les Chemins
Blancs (20, rue Beaurepaire). Farther down is
50. Renhsen (22, rue Beaurepaire), which carries
its own popular line of jeans as well as Swildens
T-shirts and bohemian accessories. The stock store
of 51. Bel Air (22, rue Beaurepaire) offers very
feminine clothing. Across the street at 52. Ideco
(19, rue Beaurepaire), you’ll find fun gifts including
Pantone iPhone covers, postcards and journals.
Next door is 53. Liza Korn (19, rue Beaurepaire),
which offers clothing for women and children as
well as home and baby linens.
Continuing along, you’ll find gorgeous clothing for
men and women at 54. Cotélac (30, rue Beaurepaire). Across the street is the fair-trade store 55.
Bazar Ethic (25, rue Beaurepaire). A Parisian
chain store, 56. The Kooples (32, rue Beaure-
27
Canal Saint-Martin
Walking Tour
paire) offers good-looking suits for men and women, as well as hip rags for a night out on the town.
The stock store of 57. Ekyog (33, rue Beaurepaire), an accomplished Korean designer, is also
on this street. Always worth a stop is 58. IKKS (34,
rue Beaurepaire).
At the end of the street, facing the canal, celebrate
with a drink at Chez Prune. You’ve covered the best
parts of the 10th Arrondissement and the trendy
Cont.
canal Saint-Martin area. Enjoy people-watching on
Chez Prune’s terrace. Or take a right on the quai
de Valmy and follow the canal a bit farther down
to look for la Caroline, a boat that houses la Cave
Vagabonde, also known as the wine barge. It is
often on the canal and specializes in wines from the
Yonne region (part of Burgundy). Here you might
want to hop aboard and enjoy a glass of wine and
some charcuterie.
Points of Interest
La Marine: 55, quai de Valmy Tel: 01 42 39 69 81
Chez Prune: 36, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 01 42 41 30 47
Jours de Fete: 72, quai de Jemmapes Tel: 01 47 03 63 11
Le Cambodge: 10, avenue Richerand Tel: 01 44 84 37 70
Philou: 12, avenue Richerand Tel: 01 42 38 00 13
Marty Tattoo: 16, avenue Richerand Tel: 01 42 39 89 81
La Sardine: 32, rue Sainte-Marthe Tel: 01 42 49 19 46
Le Galopin: 34, rue Sainte-Marthe Tel: 01 42 06 05 03
Pink Flamingo: 67, rue Bichat Tel: 1 42 02 31 70
La Chambre aux Oiseaux**: 48, rue Bichat Tel: 01 40 18 98 49
Pop Market: 50, rue Bichat Tel: 09 52 79 96 86 La Cantine de Quentin: 52, rue Bichat Tel: 01 42 02 40 32
Vintage Fripes et Objets: 104, quai de Jemmapes
L’Hôtel du Nord: 102, quai de Jemmapes Tel: 01 40 40 78 78
Le Citizen**: 96, quai de Jemmapes Tel: 01 83 62 55 50
Bleuet Coquelicot: 10, rue de la Grange aux Belles Tel: 01 42 41 21 35
Carmen Ragosta: 8, rue de la Grange aux Belles Tel: 01 42 49 00 71
Ethicando: 6, rue de la Grange aux Belles
Bensimon: 83, quai de Valmy
Artazart: 83, quai de Valmy
Boulanger et Pâtisserie: 58, rue de Lancry
Fuxia: 15, rue Jean Poulmarch Tel: 01 42 01 30 90
Le Petite Focan: 25, rue des Vinaigriers
La Piñata: 25, rue des Vinaigriers
La Galerie Végétal: 27, rue des Vinaigriers
Philippe le Libraire: 32, rue des Vinaigriers
Sol Semilla: 23, rue de Vinaigriers
Atelier-Galerie: 13, rue des Récollets
Antoine et Lili: 95, quai de Valmy
Sandro: 93, quai de Valmy
Marcel: 90, quai de Jemmapes Tel: 01 42 03 57 20
Canaletto Caffè: 88, quai de Jemm. Tel: 01 40 40 05 05
Agnès B.: 13, rue de Marseille Tel: 01 42 06 66 58
Les Petites: 11, rue de Marseille WeSC: 9, rue de Marseille Tel: 01 42 39 19 49
Claudie Pierlot: 6, rue de Marseille
Maje: 4, rue de Marseille APC: 5, rue de Marseille
Centre Commercial: 2, rue de Marseille
Du Pain et des Idées: 34, rue Yves Toudic Tel: 01 42 40 44 52 Coin Canal: 1, rue de Marseille Tel: 01 42 38 00 30
Alhambra: 21, rue Yves Toudic Tel: 01 40 20 40 25
Agnès B. Homme: 1, rue Dieu Tel: 01 42 03 47 99
Les Chemins Blancs: 20, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 01 40 18 32 69
Renhsen: 22, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 01 48 04 01 01
Bel Air: 22, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 01 42 01 19 69 Ideco: 19, rue Beaurepaire
Liza Korn: 19, rue Beaurepaire
Cotélac: 30, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 01 53 38 13 08
Bazar Ethic: 25, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 01 42 00 15 73
The Kooples: 32, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 01 40 18 37 41
Ekyog: 33, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 01 40 40 95 12
IKKS: 34, rue Beaurepaire Tel: 0 1 42 03 19 77
**Girls’ Guide to Paris Travel Club Partner: All GGTP Club Members receive discounts and
VIP treatment here and at over 200 other partners. Visit our website for more information.
28
Pastry and Chocolate Tour
1
29
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
cont’d
Begin on rue Palatine in the 6th at Saint Sulpice
8 place St. Sulpice – Café de la Mairie
72 rue Bonaparte – Pierre Hermé
16 rue d’Assas – Jean-Charles Rochoux
Luxembourg Gardens
19 rue Vaugirard – Musee du Luxembourg*
76 rue de Seine – Gerard Mulot
* Sadly this Museum is closed until further notice
2
30
8.
108 Blvd. Saint Germain – Patrick Roger
9.
34 Blvd. Saint Germain – Diptyque
cont’d
3
3

31
This stroll is over two kilometers, because
you’ve got to walk off the calories, ladies!
Biking the tour is another option.
NOTE: Shops might be closed on Sundays.
Start in the 6th Arrondissement at 1. St.Sulpice, on rue Palatine, and enjoy the beautiful
redone fountains. Stop inside the church if you
never have and view the Delacroix painting in the
small alcove to the right as you walk in. This
church figured heavily in The Da Vinci Code.
If you need some caffeine, 2. Café de la
Mairie (just to the right of the church as you exit
onto the square) is a good stop and a true
neighborhood café.
Walk on rue St.-Sulpice toward rue Bonaparte
and take a right, looking out for 3. Pierre
Hermé, at 72, rue Bonaparte (01 43 54 47 77).
He is the absolute king of macaroons in Paris.
French macaroons, not the coconut ones we
know in the U.S. Do sample the rose macaroons,
which are the Girls’ Guide favorites, but each and
every flavor is excellent. These make a marvelous gift — as long as you are giving them out
soon as they don’t keep long. All of Pierre’s
pastries are worth the calories, as he is truly a
master.
Turn back toward rue St.-Sulpice and follow rue
Bonaparte until you reach rue de Vaugirard at the
Luxembourg Gardens. Turn right, walk several
blocks and turn right on rue d’Assas. Walk to
number 16 and enter 4. Jean-Charles Rochoux’s chocolate shop (01 42 84 29 45). He
makes incredibly artistic busts of famous French
figures such as Molière, as well as many other
more traditional chocolates.
Save yourself some room, as we have several
more stops to go.
cont’d
Go back to rue de Vaugirard, taking some time
now to stroll through 5. the Luxembourg
Gardens. The Luxembourg Gardens center
around the Marie de Medici’s palace constructed
in the early 1600’s. Marie, widow of Henry the IV,
also commissioned the gardens. The Palace is
used today by the Senate of France. Find the
Medici fountain built in 1630 to the rear and east
of the palace, which is a charming place to relax
on a sunny day. 6. the Musée du Luxembourg, a delightful small museum that often has
excellent shows. Stop in and experience some
culture. *
Exiting the museum, continue along Vaugirard
toward rue de Tournon. Stop and admire the Palais du Luxembourg (Le Sénat), which was formerly Marie de Médicis’s palace and is now home
to the French Senate. Turn left here, onto rue de
Tournon. Walk along this street until it becomes
rue de Seine. Here you’ll find 7. Gérard Mulot,
at 76, rue de Seine (corner of rue Lobineau). We
love everything at Mulot, so sample whatever
catches your eye. Maybe you are ready for a bit
of a savory taste. Their small quiches are excellent, and they will warm them up for you.
Follow rue de Seine north toward boulevard St.Germain, where you’ll turn right. Walk all the way
to number 108, the chocolate master 8. Patrick Roger’s delightful store. We love the fantastic window displays and his creative concoctions using spices from all around the world. Plus,
the plain chocolate bars are simply superb. We
love his aqua-green packaging, and all in all we
just LOVE Patrick Roger. Pick up a gift here
unless you are already loaded down.
For a peaceful end to a decadent day, we suggest
a stop into 9. Diptyque, at 34, boulevard St.Germain (01 43 26 77 44), to pick up a gift for
yourself or a friend. Their candles and perfumes
are legendary. You simply cannot go wrong here.
2
4

32
cont’d
Note this last stop is a ways (over half a kilometer) from Patrick Roger, so if it is raining or you
are wiped out you can skip it. But you will regret
not having a couple of these candles packed in
your bag when you travel home.
* Museum to reopen in fall 2011 .
1. Begin at St.‐Sulpice on rue Palatine in the 6th 2. Café de la Mairie – 8 place St. Sulpice
3. Pierre Hermé – 72 rue Bonaparte
4. Jean‐Charles Rochoux – 16 rue d’Assas
5. Luxembourg Gardens 6. Musée du Luxembourg* – 19 rue Vaugirard
7. Gérard Mulot – 76 rue de Seine
8. Patrick Roger – 108 Blvd. Saint Germain
9. Diptyque – 34 Blvd. Saint Germain
* Sadly this Museum is closed until further notice
2
5

33
Gourmet Tour
1

34
Gourmet Tour
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
7.
9.
Begin at Place Maubert in the 5th – Marché Maubert
47 Blvd. St. Germain – Dubois
14 rue Monge – Kayser
Saint-Etienne-du-Mont at Place Sainte-Genevieve
Rue Mouffetard
74 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine – Hemingway Home
123 rue Monge – Le Boulanger de Monge
10.
6.
8.
cont’d
174 rue Saint Jacques – Les Caves du Pantheon
136 rue Mouffetard – La Salle à Manger
138 rue Mouffetard – Octave Ice Cream
2
2

35
Gourmet Tour
Begin your gourmet tour in the 5th Arrondissement
at 1. the Marché Maubert, which takes place
Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays from 7 to
2:30 at the Place Maubert, near the MaubertMutualité metro. Peruse the different stalls and
vendors, asking for samples when appropriate.
You might see fish and shellfish you’ve never seen
before, so don’t be afraid to ask what something
is, especially if there is no one waiting to be
served. In general the vendors are quite friendly.
You might want to buy some fruit or sausage to
sample later.
For cheese, duck into 2. Dubois, which is at 47,
boulevard St.-Germain (01 43 54 50 93), facing
the market on the same side of the boulevard.
Laurent Dubois won a prize called the Meilleur des
Fromages, meaning that he is recognized not only
for his quality cheeses, but also for the artistic way
he prepares and ages his products. His goat
cheeses are particularly impressive. We think
you’ll find plenty of fromage to buy and sample
here.
Walking down the street toward the 5th and turning right on rue Monge, you’ll find a prizewinning
boulangerie called 3. Kayser at 14, rue Monge
(01 44 07 17 81). Eric Kayser is very famous for
his cereal breads, but we love his seeded baguettes. His pastries are also divine. Buy and sample as much as you can! Note: he has another
store at 8, rue Monge, as well as many more
throughout Paris.
After all this sampling, turn right on rue des Bernardins and follow the road south until it ends at
rue des Écoles, where you’ll turn right. Go to rue
de la Montagne-Ste.-Geneviève and take a left,
curving around until you hit rue Clovis. Turn left
and go into the church 4. St.-Étienne-duMont, a beautiful Gothic structure from 1492.
You are at place Ste.-Geneviève, near the Panthéon. If you haven’t yet visited King Louis XV’s
monument to himself, the Panthéon, you can
check it out now.
cont’d
After you’ve had your spiritual and cultural side
revitalized, follow rue Clovis toward rue Descartes, where you’ll turn right. You’ll stroll along
this street until it becomes 5. rue Mouffetard,
which is a classic Parisian market street. During
Roman times, this was known as the road to
Rome. It is a very ancient street, indeed. Everyone who comes to Paris strolls at one point along
rue Mouffetard. You’ll see some very touristy cafés, which you should avoid. If you want to stop,
wait until the very end of the street, where you’ll
find an adorable little café called 6. La Salle à
Manger at 136, rue Mouffetard on your right.
You can have tea or coffee here alfresco on their
small terrace. But before you get there, about one
-third of the way down Mouffetard, you will run
into a square, Place de la Contrescarpe, with a
fountain. Around the corner here is 7. 74, rue
du Cardinal-Lemoine, where you will find a
little plaque indicating that Ernest Hemingway
once lived on the third floor. He shared a coldwater flat here with his first wife while he wrote A
Moveable Feast. You can spend an entire day or
two trailing Hemingway’s life in Paris by following
Michael Palin’s Hemingway walk.
If you love ice cream, 8. Octave Ice Cream,
at 138, rue Mouffetard, is a good bet.
If you need more gourmet fun, check out 9. Le
Boulanger de Monge, at 123, rue Monge, a
street which is parallel to Mouffetard (01 43 37 54
20). This bread maker was given three stars for
their baguette by Le Guide des Boulangeries. To
find this spot, walk to the end of Mouffetard and
down rue de Bazeilles until you get to rue Monge.
Turn left on you’ll see Le Boulanger on your right.
10. Les Caves du Panthéon, at 174, rue St.Jacques (01 46 33 90 35), is an excellent wine
store. Pick up a bottle of Brut Zero Champagne.
To reach this stop, travel north on rue Mouffetard
up to rue Jean Calvin and turn left. When you
reach the place Lucien Herr take rue LHomond
2
3

36
Gourmet Tour
cont’d
north until it jogs and become rue des Fossés-Saint
-Jacques. Follow this road until you reach rue Saint
-Jacques and turn right. Les Caves will be on your
left before you reach rue Soufflot. You’ll be near the
Cluny-Sorbonne metro stop which is further north
on rue St-Jacques and then left on Blvd. StGermain.
1. Begin at Place Maubert in the 5th – Marché
Maubert
2. 47 Blvd. Saint Germain – Dubois
3. 14 rue Monge – Kayser
4. Saint-Etienne-du-Mont at Place Saintevieve
Gene-
5. Rue Mouffetard
6. 136 rue Mouffetard – La Salle à Manger
7. 74 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine – Hemingway home
8. 138 rue Mouffetard – Octave Ice Cream
9. 123 rue Monge – Le Boulanger de Monge
10. 174 rue Saint Jacques – Les Caves du
theon
Pan-
3
4

37
Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris:
A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement
1
Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau.
All Rights Reserved.
38
1.
2.
Metro Jasmin, line 9 – starting point 78, avenue Mozart, Jackie’s home in Paris 1949–50 1 3.
4.
Lycée Molière, 71, rue du Ranelagh Alain Ducasse’s cooking school, 64, rue du Ranelagh 5.
6.
7.
La Gare restaurant and bar, 19, chausée de la Muette Jardin du Ranelagh, avenue du Ranelagh Musée Marmottan, 2, rue Louis Boilly 2
39
8.
9.
10.
Franck et Fils, 80, rue de Passy Passy covered market, 1, rue Bois le Vent Rue de l’Annonciation pedestrian market street 11.
12.
13.
Maison de Balzac, 47, rue Raynouard Rue Berton Musée du Vin, 5, square Charles Dickens 14.
15.
Palais de Chaillot, 35, avenue Raymond Poincaré Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, 1, Place du Trocadéro 3
40
A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement In 1949–50, during her junior year abroad, Jacqueline Bouvier lived in this area, which is known as Passy, while she attended classes at the Sorbonne. She later described this year as “the high point in my life, my happiest and most carefree year.” The walk takes you through some of the streets she would have known and ends at the Palais de Chaillot, where in 1961, during a presidential state visit, John F. Kennedy described himself to a room full of journalists as “the man who accompanied Jackie Kennedy to Paris.” The walk includes a chic shopping area that Jackie pat‐
ronized when she was married to Aristotle Onassis, who maintained an apartment in Paris. The walk takes about two hours from start to finish, but longer if you stop to shop, eat or visit one of the museums on the route. There are many good picnic spots as well as dozens of cafés and restaurants. Begin at 1. metro Jasmin. Take the rue Jasmin exit, which comes out in front of 2. 78, avenue Mozart. Jacqueline Bouvier lived in this building when she was a student at the Sorbonne, 1949–50. She lodged with the widowed Comtesse de Renty and her family in a large apartment, with several other students. There was no central heating, and the eight occupants of the apartment shared a single bathroom. During the winter, Jackie slept with her coat over her for warmth. Walk up avenue Mozart, keeping No. 78 on your left. Cross the road and turn right into rue de l’Assomption (Napoleon and Josephine once lived on this street) and then left into rue Davioud, a narrow, cobbled road. Turn right into rue du Ranelagh. On your right you will see 3. Lycée Molière, 71, rue du Ranelagh, where actresses Charlotte Gainsbourg and Marion Cotillard attended school, and where Simone de Beauvoir taught until she was fired in 1939 for having an affair with a female student. Opposite the school at No. 64, rue du Ranelagh, is 4. Alain Ducasse’s cooking school. Ducasse, born in 1956, was not a contemporary of Jackie’s, but his style of using fresh, seasonal products is the same as that of René Verdon, whom Jackie hired as White House chef in 1961. (She was the first presidential wife to hire a professional chef, and she conducted Verdon’s interview in French.) Ducasse’s school is on the ground floor at the back and has a small boutique. Courses are open to all, and gift certificates are available. Instruction is in French, but a translator can be arranged if you give the school advance notice (www.ecolecuisine‐alainducasse.com/). Rue du Ranelagh goes all the way down to the river, where it runs into—appropriately enough—the Avenue du Président Kennedy. If you are a true‐blue Jackie fan, you may want to follow it as far as No. 10, once the site of a literary salon patronized by a friend of Jackie’s, the writer and politician André Malraux. Through her friendship with Malraux, Jackie arranged for the Mona Lisa to be sent to the United States in 1963. Go back up rue du Ranelagh (away from the river) and turn into rue Gustave Zédé opposite the Lycée, left on rue du Général Aubé and right again at rue Pajou. The streets are climbing uphill—this part of the city was once the site of huge mansions with gardens sloping down to the Seine. Many of the ornate buildings that now occupy this area date from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Turn left on rue des Vignes (recalling a time when grapevines grew here), and cross avenue Mozart. Con‐
tinue on rue Largillière, which opens into a large space where several roads converge. To your left is 5. La Gare, a popular restaurant, built into a former station on the railway known as La Petite Ceinture (the little belt), a line that once ran around the circumference of the city (www.restaurantlagare.com). If you turn left as you come out of La Gare and walk down Chausée de la Muette, you will enter 6. Jardin du Ranelagh. In the 18th century, public balls were held here and Parisians from all walks of life came to dance. If you have children with you, the garden of‐
fers a range of amusements and places to play, and you will get no further. If you continue on the same road to the other side of the gardens and cross avenue Raphaël, you will see 7. Musée Marmottan (www.marmottan.com) at 2, rue Louis Boilly. It is devoted to Impressionist art. When Jackie lived in the 16th, this was a museum of Second Empire decorative arts. Its focus changed in 1957, with a donation of Impressionist masterpieces, a focus consolidated with a further donation of Monet’s art by his son in 1966. If you are an art lover, you may want to visit the museum. But if you want to do some serious shopping, continue the walk. Cross the road directly in front of La Gare and take Chaussée de la Muette, which becomes rue de Passy, the main shopping street of the Passy area. Look for the yellow signs on the left at No. 80. This is 8. Franck et Fils (www.francketfils.fr). The store opened at this location in 1937. Today, it’s a scaled‐down version of Le Bon Marché (both stores are owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis 4
41
Vuitton). There are three floors of fashion and a pleasant café on the top floor. Not only did Jackie shop here occasionally, but the store features the fashion line known as Paule Ka, whose designer takes his inspiration from Jackie (as well as Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly). Rue de Passy features boutiques from many of the ma‐
jor fashion brands. Look for the elements of Jackie’s classic style: either the pearls and the boxy suits of the White House years or the oversized sunglasses, slim white pants and dark skinny tops of the Jackie O years. At Place de Passy, the road opens into a little area with trees. Turn right and you will see 9. Passy covered mar‐
ket, at 1, rue Bois le Vent (foodies take note: the chefs at the Ducasse school shop here), and 10. rue de l’Annonciation pedestrian street market. Take the rue de l’Annonciation, which is closed to cars and has many open‐air cafés. On the left is the Passy Plaza (where you can buy food for a picnic) and a little church. Continue to rue Raynouard. Turn right into this street and at No. 47 you will see the entrance to 11. Maison de Balzac (www.paris.org/Musees/Balzac/). Honoré de Balzac lived here in the 1840s. The gardens are open to all, and this is a good picnic spot. Balzac’s house reminds us that Jackie earned her degree in French literature (her favorite writer, however, was Bau‐
delaire). She may have read Balzac’s “Treatise on Elegant Living,” in which he says, “Anyone who does not visit Paris frequently will never be completely elegant.” Words to live by, and it seems that Jackie did live by them! Continue past Balzac’s house on rue Raynouard, and look for the steps going down on the left. Take them and turn left into 12. rue Berton. This charming cobbled street feels like a country road in the middle of the city. As you go on, it gets narrower and narrower, until it opens into rue Marcel Proust. Bear left. Take the stairs down on the right into another garden. From the bottom of the stairs, the exit is to the left, through a large square archway. Walk straight through and cross the road into Impasse Marie de Ré‐
gnier. The gate through the traffic barrier at the end of the street takes you into rue Charles Dickens. Walk to the end and turn left, where you will see 13. Musée du Vin (Museum of Wine, www.museeduvinparis.com/en). In addition to the museum, there is a boutique and a restaurant, in a series of low, arched caves. The muse‐
um is educational, but the restaurant food is good. Whether or not you visit the museum depends on your answer to the question: Do you want to understand wine, or simply experience it? Directly in front of the museum is rue des Eaux. Walk down it and turn left into Square Alboni. Overhead is the bridge that brings trains into the Passy metro sta‐
tion. If you are feeling energetic, take the stairs that lead up to the left before the bridge. If you are tired, walk under the bridge and, voilà, there is an escalator to take you up the hill. This takes you to rue de l’Alboni. Walk up to the traffic circle and turn right into the tree‐
shaded boulevard Delessert. Notice the old walls on the left, with filled‐in arches. Where boulevard Delessert and rue le Nôtre meet, you will see the gardens of 14. Palais de Chaillot, the site of John F. Kennedy’s speech in 1961. You can take the steps on the left, which lead to a path that comes out near a statue of Benjamin Franklin, or you can just walk into the gardens and head uphill to the main building with its museums and restaurants. 15. Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine (http://www.citechaillot.fr/) has an excellent café with a splendid view of the Eiffel Tower. Rest your feet and toast the memory of Jackie. Points of interest addresses: 1. Begin at metro Jasmin, line 9. 2. 78, avenue Mozart, Jackie’s home in Paris, 1949–50 3. Lycée Molière, 71, rue du Ranelagh 4. Alain Ducasse’s cooking school, 64, rue du Ranelagh 5. La Gare restaurant and bar, 19, chausée de la Muette 6. Jardin du Ranelagh, avenue du Ranelagh 7. Musée Marmottan, 2, rue Louis Boilly 8. Franck et Fils, 80, rue de Passy 9. Passy covered market, 1, rue Bois le Vent 10. Rue de l’Annonciation pedestrian market street 11. Maison de Balzac, 47, rue Raynouard 12. Rue Berton 13. Musée du Vin, 5, square Charles Dickens 14. Palais de Chaillot, 35, Avenue Raymond Poincaré 15. Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, 1, Place Trocadéro If you want to do more shopping, Jackie‐style, go to the 8th Arrondissement (metro Franklin Roosevelt on line 1) and visit: Chanel, 42, avenue Montaigne: Chanel was the inventor of the little boxy suits Jackie favored as First Lady and one of Jackie’s favorite designers. D. Porthault, 50, avenue Montaigne: Jackie bought the linens for the White House here. Givenchy, 3, avenue George V: Givenchy supplied the evening gown Jackie wore at Versailles in 1961. Emilio Pucci, 36, avenue Montaigne: Pucci was one of her favorite designers during the Jackie O years. 5
42
Louvre to Opera Walk
Jardin
DESdes
Tuileries
43
1.
2.
3.
Louvre, rue de Rivoli
Café Marly, 93 rue de Rivoli
Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107 rue de
Rivoli
4.
5.
Jardin des Tuileries, rue de Rivoli
Musée de L’Orangerie, Jardin des
Tuileries
6. Jeu de Paume, 1 place de la Concorde
7. Place de la Concorde
8. Hôtel de Crillon, 10 place de la
Concorde
9. WH Smith, 248 rue de Rivoli
10. Pierre Hermé, 4 rue Cambon
11.
12.
13.
14.
Jardin des
Tuileries
Le Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli
Angelina, 226 rue de Rivoli
Place Vendôme
Ritz, 15 Place Vendôme
44
15. Harry’s New York Bar, 5 rue Daunou
16. Palais Garnier, 1 place de l’Opera
17. Café de la Paix, 12 Boulevard des
Capucines
18.
19.
20.
21.
Place de la Madeleine
Fauchon, 24 – 2 place de la Madeleine
Hédiard, 21 place de la Madeleine
Eglise de la Madeleine
45
Louvre to Opéra Walk
On this walk, you’ll get a good dose of
culture with a great selection of museums
to visit, including the world-famous Louvre.
It won’t be possible to visit in one day all the
museums listed, but this approximate 3
hour walk will give you a good overview, so
you can decide where you’d like to return.
And no tour is complete without some
gourmet stops to enjoy the many wonderful
Parisian delicacies.
Start your day as soon as the 1. Louvre (rue
de Rivoli ) opens, at 9 a.m., to avoid some of
the crowds, but keep in mind that it’s closed
on Tuesdays. You’ll never be able to see all
35,000 works of art in a day, so pick a few
highlights, themes or time periods to explore.
The Louvre is one of the largest museums in
the world and dates back to the 12th century,
when a fortress was needed to protect the
city from an Anglo-Norman attack. It
transitioned to a royal fortress and eventually
into a museum in 1793.
If you need a pick-me-up after your visit, sit
on the terrace of 2. Café Marly (93, rue de
Rivoli) and enjoy views of I. M. Pei’s glass
pyramid, but expect to pay the price for the
exceptional location and view.
Next to the Louvre in the Hall Rohan’s
3. Musée des Arts Décoratifs (107, rue de
Rivoli) are three independently operated
museums, worth a visit for a look at the role
of fashion, design and decorative arts in
industry and culture. The Musée des Arts
Décoratifs features decorative arts from the
Middle Ages to today. The Musée de la Mode
et du Textile highlights fashion from the 16th
century to the present, and the Musée de la
Publicité features advertising from around
the world. Look for interesting, frequently
rotating exhibitions at each.
Walk out of the museum and through the
beautifully landscaped 4. Jardin des
Tuileries (rue de Rivoli). Initially a palace
garden under Catherine de Médicis, the park
was later opened to the public and designed
by André Le Nôtre, the architect of the
gardens at Versailles, in the 17th century.
Grab one of the iconic green chairs and
position it for a prime view of the expansive
gardens and some great people watching.
If you haven’t hit museum overload yet, there
are two more situated next to the Place de la
Concorde. The 5. Musée de l’Orangerie
(Jardin des Tuileries) features Claude Monet’s
water lily paintings, among other
impressionist work from the 19th and 20th
centuries, including pieces by Cézanne,
Renoir, Picasso and Matisse.
Opposite the Orangerie is the 6. Jeu de
Paume (1, Place de la Concorde). Once a
tennis court, it now focuses on photography
exhibitions from the 19th to 21st centuries.
At the end of the Tuileries, pop out onto the
7. Place de la Concorde to see Paris’s largest
square and to catch a glimpse of the Arc de
Triomphe at the top of the Champs Elysées. In
the middle of the Place de la Concorde, a
statue of Louis XV once stood; it was replaced
with a guillotine, which was later used for
many notable names, including Louis XVI and
Marie Antoinette. The 75-foot-tall goldentopped obelisk that you now see in the middle
of the square used to sit outside the Luxor
Temple and dates back to 1550 BCE. It was
given as a gift to France from the viceroy of
Egypt in 1829. The base of the obelisk shows
the complex manner in which the 230-ton
object was shipped to France. The featured
46
hieroglyphics celebrate the reigns of
pharaohs, Ramses II and Ramses III, and the
golden top was added by the government in
1998.
On the western edge of the Place de la
Concorde sits the famed 8. Hôtel de Crillon
(10, Place de la Concorde), once an opulent
home to the Count of Crillon. The first
traveler was welcomed to the hotel in 1909,
and service has been continuous and near
perfection ever since.
Turn onto rue de Rivoli, and soon on your left
you’ll see 9. W. H. Smith (248, rue de Rivoli).
Stop in if you need any books, travel guides or
magazines written in English.
Turn left on rue Cambon for one of the best
macarons in Paris at 10. Pierre Hermé
(4, rue Cambon). With the shop’s beautiful
packaging and sculpted chocolates, it will be
hard to leave without a shopping bag.
Continue down rue de Rivoli and you’ll find
the five-star hotel 11. Le Meurice (228, rue
de Rivoli), with the three-star Michelin
restaurant of the same name. If your budget
does not allow for a stay or a meal here, have
a drink inside and take a peek at the Philippe
Starck–designed dining area, resembling an
opulent room at Versailles.
For something more casual but still beautiful,
go next door to 12. Angelina (226, rue de
Rivoli) for a rich, over-the-top hot chocolate,
and try picking just one decadent sweet to
accompany it. There’s a reason Angelina has
been around for over a century.
Turn back on rue de Rivoli and make a right
up rue de Castiglione to the 13. Place
Vendôme, one of Paris’s most prestigious
squares, though it actually has eight sides,
which makes it an octagon. The Place
Vendôme was initially constructed in the 18th
century, and it has seen several statues come
and go over the years, including a homage to
Napoleon’s military prowess made from
Russian and Austrian canons captured during
the battle of Austerlitz. This, too, was
destroyed and re-created and stands in the
square today. The Place Vendôme is now
home to many top-name jewelers and upscale
boutiques, in addition to the iconic 14. Ritz
Hotel* (15, Place Vendôme), which is worth a
stop for a drink or more to enjoy the beautiful
decor and people, perhaps including a few
celebrities.
*Closed for renovations until 2014.
Continue up rue de la Paix, and if you’re still
thirsty, duck into 15. Harry’s New York Bar
(5, rue Daunou), to the right on rue Daunou.
As the name suggests, Harry’s started in New
York, where an avid patron loved the place so
much that he asked if the whole bar could be
moved to Paris, and voilà. Harry’s has been in
Paris since 1911. Choose from among the 300
whiskies, or have one of the white-coated
bartenders whip you up a New York specialty.
When you arrive at the major intersection
and roundabout, you’ll immediately see your
next stop, the 16. Palais Garnier (1, Place de
l’Opéra). Napoleon III ordered construction of
this magnificent building, which was the most
expensive built during the Second Empire,
and it was instantly deemed a masterpiece.
The chandelier in the center of the theatre
was designed by Charles Garnier himself and
weighs in at seven tons with all its bronze and
crystal accoutrements. The brilliant
multicolored mural on the ceiling was painted
in 1964 by Marc Chagall, and each scene
depicts a different story from a different
opera. If you can’t get tickets to a
performance but would like to see the inside
47
of the building, the Palais Garnier offers wellexecuted tours of the breathtaking venue.
Leaving the Opéra with a right onto boulevard
des Capucines, you’ll pass the classic 17. Café
de la Paix (12, boulevard des Capucines), a
great stop for a pre- or post-Opéra drink or
bite. With the café’s gorgeous dining room
and terrace, you’ll be drinking where notables
like Oscar Wilde and Marlene Dietrich once
did.
Enjoy some window-shopping on your way to
the 18. Place de la Madeleine, where you’ll
find a food mecca. Head to your right and
you’ll come to the first of two separate
buildings for 19. Fauchon (24-26, Place de la
Madeleine). The first shop has an extensive
seafood section, as well as a large offering of
cheese and charcuterie, macarons, and a
bakery, where you can either eat your
delicacies or get them to go. The shop kittycorner has a full floor of sweets and savory
items to pack in your suitcase as gifts for
friends or yourself. There’s also a café
upstairs for dining, and a full floor dedicated
to wine below.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
Louvre, rue de Rivoli
Café Marly, 93, rue de Rivoli, 01 49 26 06 60
Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107, rue de Rivoli
Jardin des Tuileries, rue de Rivoli
Musée de l’Orangerie, Jardin des Tuileries
Jeu de Paume, 1, Place de la Concorde
Place de la Concorde
Hôtel de Crillon, 10, Place de la Concorde
W. H. Smith, 248, rue de Rivoli
Pierre Hermé, 4, rue Cambon
Le Meurice, 228, rue de Rivoli, 01 44 58 10 10
Angelina, 226, rue de Rivoli, 01 42 60 88 50
Place Vendôme
Ritz, 15, Place Vendôme
Harry’s New York Bar, 5, rue Daunou
Palais Garnier, 1, Place de l’Opéra
Café de la Paix, 12, boulevard des Capucines,
01 40 07 36 36
Place de la Madeleine
Fauchon, 24-26, Place de la Madeleine
Hédiard, 21, Place de la Madeleine
Eglise de la Madeleine
Continuing your loop, you’ll find 20. Hédiard
(21, Place de la Madeleine) opposite Fauchon.
Enjoy the selection of jams, teas, salts, fresh
produce, desserts and wine. Buy something
for a future picnic, or if you can’t wait, eat in
the restaurant upstairs, which features the
best of Hédiard’s products.
End your tour in the center of the plaza at the
21. Eglise de la Madeleine. In 1806
Napoleon gave instructions to build a
“Temple of Glory” for his army. After his fall,
there were delays that prevented the church
from opening until 1842. Check the schedules
to try and catch a concert in the traditional
basilica.
48
Walk from the Palais Royal
to the Pompidou
49
to the Pompidou
1. La Comédie Française, Place
Colette
2. Le Palais Royal, Place du Palais
Royal
3. Jardin du Palais Royal, 6, rue
de Montpensier
4. Verjus, 47, rue de Montpensier
5. Bibliothèque Nationale, 58,
rue de Richelieu
6. Galerie Vivienne, 5, rue de la
Banque
7. La Bourse, Palais Brongniart,
Place de la Bourse
8. Sentier District
50
to the Pompidou
9. Frenchie, 5-6, rue du Nil
10. Rue Montorgueil
11. Experimental Cocktail Club, 37,
rue Saint-Sauveur
12. Pâtisserie Stohrer, 51, rue
Montorgueil
13. Aux Tonneaux des Halles, 28, rue
Montorgueil
14. Au Rocher de Cancale, 78, rue
Montorgueil
15. L’Art Source, 6, rue Marie Stuart
16. Passage du Grand Cerf, 8, rue
Dussoubs
17. Rue Saint-Denis
18. Eglise Saint-Eustache, rue du Jour
19. Forum des Halles
20. Fontaine Stravinsky
21. Centre Pompidou, rue SaintMartin
22. Place Georges Pompidou
51
Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou
On this walk, you’ll travel through parts of
the 1st and 2nd Arrondissements as you
meander through the royal gardens,
beautiful covered passageways, historic
churches and museums, with, of course,
many wonderful spots at which to eat along
the way. Allow at least three hours to enjoy
this tour at a leisurely pace.
Exit onto rue de Montpensier and turn right,
then continue until the end of the street,
where you’ll find a small but wonderful wine
bar, 4. Verjus (47, rue de Montpensier).
Enjoy a selection of seasonal small plates with
wines to match from a friendly and
knowledgeable American couple. Or reserve
in advance for an exceptional full-course meal
in the dining room upstairs.
The tour begins with Paris’s oldest theatre
company, the 1. Comédie Française (Place
Colette), which was founded in 1680. It
originally performed at the Odéon but moved
to this location, near the Palais Royal, in 1799.
Most major French actors have performed
here and still do. Expect to see classics from
Victor Hugo, Molière, and Shakespeare.
Exit on rue de Beaujolais and turn left onto
rue Vivienne and take a quick right onto rue
des Petits Champs. Halfway down the street
on your left, you’ll see the beautiful 5. Galerie
Vivienne (5, rue de la Banque), adjacent to
the Galerie Colbert. Walk on the gorgeous
mosaic tiles and feel yourself transported to
the 1800s, when these covered passageways
were built. They were designed to protect
well-coiffed Parisienne shoppers from both
the weather and carriage debris. You’ll find
every Parisian delight here, including books,
flowers, wine, a bistro and the pièce de
résistance, a Jean Paul Gaultier shop.
Just across rue de Richelieu is the 2. Palais
Royal (Place du Palais Royal). The building
was originally created in 1634 for Cardinal
Richelieu and then passed through several
royal families before it fell into ill repute in
the 19th century, with ladies doing some
unladylike things. It was eventually burned
down and restored by the current occupants,
the Ministry of Culture and the Conseil d’Etat.
Walking into the courtyard, you’ll see what
may appear to be out-of-place columns of
various sizes, but these were created in 1980
by Daniel Buren.
Walking through the courtyard, away from
the Louvre, you’ll find the 3. Jardin du Palais
Royal (6, rue de Montpensier), providing a
nice oasis in the middle of the bustling city.
Grab a bench and enjoy some quiet time, or
dive into some upscale shopping at the arcade
surrounding the garden. From perfume to
bags to designer clothes, you’ll find it all right
here.
After you walk all the way through Galerie
Vivienne, you’ll find yourself in front of the
6. Bibliothèque Nationale (58, rue de
Richelieu). Louis XIV originally housed
manuscripts here in the 1660s when the
Louvre couldn’t take them. As more
documents were moved here, the library
needed to expand. In addition to important
papers, you can also find medals, coins and
antiques, but the library is currently
undergoing a major renovation, so some
areas might be closed during your visit.
Continue right on rue de Richelieu until you
reach rue du Quatre Septembre, and then
turn right. Shortly on your left, you’ll see the
7. Bourse (Palais Brongniart, Place de la
Bourse), Paris’s stock exchange. Stock trading
has had many homes throughout Paris,
52
including the Louvre and the Palais Royal, but
it landed at this location in 1826. You can tour
the Bourse with an advance reservation.
Continue down rue Réaumur. To the north of
this street you’ll find the 8. Sentier district,
where much of the wholesale clothing
industry is based. While it’s not open to the
public, you can still wander through and see
the reams of colorful cloth, ribbons and
accessories.
Turning left on rue des Petits Carreaux and
right on to the small alley of rue du Nil, you’ll
see one of Paris’s top and toughest tickets in
town, the restaurant 9. Frenchie (5–6, rue du
Nil). A crowd starts forming outside before
7 p.m. to find out if there are any day-of
cancellations. There will also be a line of
people directly opposite the restaurant, in
front of its namesake wine bar, which is
equally as good, and where seats are on a
first-come, first-served basis.
Head back to rue des Petits Carreaux and
make a left, following it until it turns into the
pedestrian- and food-friendly 10. rue
Montorgueil. Enjoy all the specialty food
shops selling everything from fish to meat,
cheese and wine. Farther down the street,
there are some fun and funky clothing
boutiques as well as interesting art and
jewelry shops.
Explore some of the side streets, like rue
Saint-Sauveur, where you can step into
11. Experimental Cocktail Club (37, rue
Saint-Sauveur), a hip, happening cocktail
lounge, for some late-night fun.
Another notable stop along rue Montorgueil
is 12. Pâtisserie Stohrer (51, rue
Montorgueil). Founded in 1730, it’s the oldest
pâtisserie in Paris. As if the decor wasn’t
beautiful enough, there are also croissants,
pastries, salads and Stohrer’s claim to fame,
the baba au rhum. Be sure to visit on an
empty stomach.
There are many great spots to enjoy a glass of
wine or a bigger meal. The Montorgueil
classic 13. Aux Tonneaux des Halles
(28, rue Montorgueil) has a wonderful duck
confit, and there’s the 19th-century literary
hang 14. Au Rocher de Cancale (78, rue
Montorgueil).
Turn down rue Marie Stuart and you can
quench your thirst for great wine and tapas at
15. l’Art Source (6, rue Marie Stuart). At the
end of this street is the gorgeous 16. Passage
du Grand Cerf (8, rue Dussoubs). This bright
passage was created in 1825 and used as a
point in the royal mail coach service. Now you
can find trendy designer and workmen’s
shops selling unique and interesting personal
and home items.
If you exit at the other end, you’ll be on
17. rue Saint-Denis. While this street’s
reputation has improved, you’ll still find
ladies of the evening working here, as well as
other semi-seedy types around the neon-lit
sex shops.
Turn right on rue Saint-Denis and move
quickly through the street, then make another
right onto rue de Turbigo and follow it until
you dead-end at the behemoth construction
site that currently is les Halles. Before you
fully dive in, take a right on rue Rambuteau
and walk until you come to the beautiful
18. Eglise Saint-Eustache (rue du Jour).
Construction on the church began in 1532,
and it’s a mix of Gothic and Renaissance
styles. The church boasts an 8,000-pipe
organ, and most Sundays you can catch a free
concert here.
53
Turning back to face the beast that is the
19. Forum des Halles, you’ll have to picture
it as it once was—a bustling, commercial
market selling food and produce to Paris’s big
buyers. When the market was moved out of
town to ease congestion, the area never quite
recovered. There’s a string of chain stores in
the massive, constructed mall, along with a
complex web of transportation underground.
Most people avoid it by night, or even by day,
but attempts are being made to restore the
forum to a more consumer-friendly area.
Time will tell, though, if this lofty goal will be
achieved.
After crossing through the Forum des Halles,
exit on rue Berger and turn left, walking
toward the Centre Georges Pompidou, but
before going in, admire the 20. Fontaine
Stravinsky behind it. The collection of playful
water decorations sprays, squirts and
delights those heading into the Pompidou.
You can see the exterior of the 21. Centre
Pompidou (rue Saint-Martin) from many
places throughout Paris, given its bold, bright
primary colors and “inside-out” architecture
featuring large pipes and tubes protruding
from the building. The Centre Pompidou, aka
Beaubourg, was designed by architects Renzo
Piano, Richard Rogers and Gianfranco
Franchini and is home to the largest modernart collection in Europe. It was built in 1977
and is a unique, vast building with five stories
of art and panoramic views from the top.
Many notable exhibitions rotate through the
temporary spaces, so check the schedule to
plan your visit.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
La Comédie Française, Place Colette
Le Palais Royal, Place du Palais Royal
Jardin du Palais Royal, 6, rue de Montpensier
Verjus, 47, rue de Montpensier, 01 42 97 54 40
Galerie Vivienne, 5, rue de la Banque
Bibliothèque Nationale, 58, rue de Richelieu
La Bourse, Palais Brongniart, Place de la Bourse
01 49 27 14 70
Sentier District
Frenchie, 5–6, rue du Nil, 01 40 39 96 19
Rue Montorgueil
Experimental Cocktail Club, 37, rue Saint-Sauveur
Pâtisserie Stohrer, 51, rue Montorgueil
Aux Tonneaux des Halles, 28, rue Montorgueil,
01 42 33 36 19
Au Rocher de Cancale, 78, rue Montorgueil,
01 42 33 50 29
L’Art Source, 6, rue Marie Stuart, 09 82 55 00 49
Passage du Grand Cerf, 8, rue Dussoubs
Rue Saint-Denis
Eglise Saint-Eustache, rue du Jour
Forum des Halles
Fontaine Stravinsky
Centre Pompidou, rue Saint-Martin
Place Georges Pompidou
As you leave the building, join the masses in
the 22. Place Georges Pompidou to watch
street performers, artists and tourists enjoy
the activity and sights in this bustling square.
54
Pigalle and Montmartre
1
55
2
2

56
3
3

57
1.
2.
3.
4.
cont’d
Metro Blanche in the 18th on Blvd. Clichy –
starting point
15 rue Lepic – Café des Deux Moulins
28 rue Lepic – Epicerie du Terroir
26 rue Lepic – Les Petits Mitrons
5. 35 rue des Abbesses – Le Sancerre
5a. 38 rue des Abbesses – Le Greniere à Pain
6. 19 – 21 rue des Abbesses – Saint-Jean de Montmartre
4
4

58
7.
8.
9.
cont’d
44 rue Lepic – Espace W
42 rue Lepic – A La Pomponette
41 rue Lepic – La Rughetta
10.
83 rue Lepic – Le Moulin de la Galette
12.
11 rue Poulbot – Espace Dali
5
5

59
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
cont’d
2, rue l’Abreuvoir – Maison Rose
22 rue des Saules – Au Lapin Agile
12 rue Cortot – Montmartre Museum (Musee Montmartre)
Parvis du Sacre Coeur – Sacre Coeur
2 rue Ronsard - Halle St. Pierre
51 rue des Martyrs – L’Epicerie Fuxia
25 rue des Martyrs – Fuxia
6
6

60
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
cont’d
16 rue Chaptal – Musee de la Vie Romantique
14 rue de la Rochefoucauld – Musee Gustave-Moreau
35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre – A La Mere de la Famille
31 rue du Faubourg Montmartre – Passage Verdeau
14 Passage Verdeau – Photo Verdeau
6 Passage Verdeau – Librarie Roland Buret
Passage Jouffroy – Hotel Chopin
Passage Panoramas
30 Passage Panoramas – Le Valentin
8 Passage Panoramas – Racines
10 blvd Montmartre – Musee Grevin
7
7

61
31.
32.
cont’d
40 Blvd. Haussmann – Galeries Lafayette
64 Blvd. Haussmann - Printemps
8
8

62
If it is a hot day, this walk is best done in
the morning and will last 4+ hours or more
depending on your pace. Go slow and
make a day of it.
Begin at 1. Métro Blanche in the 18th and
travel up the hill on rue Lepic heading north keeping the Moulin Rouge on your left. We do not
recommend going to the Moulin Rouge as it is
dreadfully tacky but its history is interesting.
Pass by the 2. Café des Deux Moulins at 15
rue Lepic (01 42 54 90 50), from the movie Amélie,
and have a coffee if you like. Continue on Lepic and
check out the 3. Épicerie du Terroir, 28 rue Lepic, which is good for specialty food gifts at the corner of rue Véron. The artisanal tartes at 4. Les
Petits Mitrons, 26 rue Lepic, are worth mentioning. Follow Lepic up to the left as you come to rue
des Abbesses; if you turn right on Rue des Abbesses
you’ll find some wonderful bars such as 5. Le Sancerre at 35 rue des Abbesses (01 42 58 08 20) and
interesting food shops on this market street. At 38
rue des Abesses you’ll find 5a. Le Grenier à
Pain, 2010 winner of the Grand Prix for best baguette in Paris. Plus there is a notable Arts and
Crafts style church at 19 and 21 rue des Abbesses
called 6. Saint-Jean de Montmartre. Le Sancerre stays open very late so you can join the fun
later on. But if you don’t have extra time for the
diversion, continue up Lepic to the left, passing
44 Lepic, which is a cutting edge art gallery called
7. Espace W.
8. À la Pomponette at 42 (01 46 06 08 36) &
9. La Rughetta at 41 (01 42 23 41 70) are fairly
good restaurants worth noting on Lepic if you want
to come back for dinner. As you turn and begin
marching up the big hill, you’ll see the top of
Sacré-Cœur (the famous church on the mount).
At the corner of Lepic and rue Tholozé look to your
right for a wonderful view of Paris. The gold dome
cont’d
of Invalides and Napoleon’s tomb stands out.
As you continue up rue Lepic, to the left you’ll
see one of the two remaining windmills of Montmartre set on top of 10. Le Moulin de la
Galette 83 rue Lepic (see Dining section) at
the corner of rue Girardon (01 46 06 84 78) is a
lovely place for lunch or dinner and open every
day. The owners also have a movie theatre
showing art films around the corner. Across the
street from Le Moulin is 11. La Divette du
Moulin at 98 rue Lepic which is another solid
restaurant you might want to book for dinner (01
46 06 34 84). Their Côte de Boeuf is popular.
Turn right on rue Norvins then left on rue des
Saules to avoid the masses of tourists in the
Place du Tertre, a place we avoid like the
plague, but if you want to take a detour then
venture in 12. Espace Dali at 11 rue Poulbot
it is worth a look (take a right just before you
enter the square and follow the signs). This is
not a spectacular museum, but a fun stop if you
are a Dali fan. Otherwise continue down rue
des Saules until you reach rue Saint-Vincent
where you’ll see the last of the remaining grape
vines in Montmartre. These are the vines they
harvest and celebrate during the Fête des
Vendanges in October. Turn right here, noting
the beautifully picturesque 13. La Maison
Rose restaurant on your left at 2 rue Abreuvoir
(01 42 57 66 75), which we hear is quite nice.
Also across the street from the small vineyard is
14. Au Lapin Agile 22 rue des Saules (01
46 06 85 87) a venue famous for its patrons
(Picasso and Modigliani) and old-fashioned
cabaret music (think Edith Piaf).
Continue along Saint Vincent stopping if you
like at the 15. Montmartre Museum at 12
rue Cortot, with another entrance on SaintVincent. The museum which houses the history
of Montmartre is not going to blow you away,
but the garden is lovely and it’s a nice respite
from the tourists. Stay on St. Vincent until it
2
9

63
ends and take a right at rue de la Bonne and you’ll
see the 16. Sacré-Cœur. Take another right at
rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre and left on Cardinal
Guibert to enter the church. Depending on the season, cool off or warm up in this impressive cathedral, built from 1875 - 1914 in the RomanoByzantine style.
Exit the church and behold the most amazing view
of the entire city of Paris. Follow the hordes of people down the stairs on either the right or left side
ending up at rue St. Pierre where you’ll take a left.
Note: Be careful here of men trying to sell you
bracelets. Walk away from them if they do as their
method of putting a bracelet on you and then demanding payment is a bit too aggressive for our
liking. Take another left at rue Ronsard if you would
like to visit 17. Halle St. Pierre at 2 rue Ronsard (01 42 58 72 89), which is dedicated to emerging artists. The little café here is a nice place to
hide from the crowds near the church and have a
quick tea or lemonade. Exit left out of the Halle and
turn down rue Seveste and take a right on rue
d’Orsel. This street has some cute shops further
down. Take note of the lovely Theatre at Place
Dullin. Follow d’Orsel until rue des Martyrs where
you’ll turn left. Continue on Martyrs, which is one of
our favorite streets, as you enter the 9th passing
across Boulevard Clichy.
On Martyrs you can lunch at 18. l’Epicerie
Fuxia at 51, which is a charming little Italian place.
Here you can order a plate of mixed antipasti and
charcuterie or sardines and octopus, knocking it
down with a glass of Italian wine. For fancier dining,
the same owners have another Italian restaurant
further down the street at 25 rue des Martyrs called
simply 19. Fuxia.
Perhaps you’d like to wait to lunch in the garden (if
it’s nice out) at 20. Musée de la Vie Romantique, which isn’t too far away. To get there, continue along Martyrs until it ends at l’Église NotreDame-de-Lorette. Turn slightly right here and take
cont’d
rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette to the Musée de la
Vie Romantique at 16 rue Chaptal (01 55 31 95
67). Rue Chaptal will be off to your left just after
you come to rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle where
the road forks. The museum was the home of
Ary Scheffer and a frequent stop for the writer
George Sand. It gives you an idea of what life
was like during the 1830’s but it’s not a mustsee unless you are visiting in good weather
when the garden café is open. The outdoor café
is an absolute delight.
Exit the museum to the right and turn left on rue
Blanche. Follow this street down until you can
turn onto Rue de la Tour des Dames which you
will follow until it dead-ends. 21. Musée Gustave-Moreau is on Rue de La Rochefoucauld
at number 14 (01 48 74 38 50), which you
should see to your left. This museum is worth
visiting in winter or summer as it is both an
atelier full of the French symbolist painter’s
work as well as his home. The furnishings and
his artifacts are in place and well preserved and
really give you a feel of Paris in the late 1800’s.
A visit will have you in and out in under an hour.
Exit the museum to the left, and take another
left on Rue St. Lazare until you reach the
church again (Notre-Dame de Lorette) which is
worthy of a quick visit although the church’s exterior could use some renovation. Cross the
Place here to find rue du Faubourg-Montmartre.
Down this street is 22. À la Mère de la Famille at 35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre,
which is a famous old candy and chocolate
shop for gifts ‘extraordinaire’.
Follow the rue until you reach 23. Passage
Verdeau at 31 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre
(04 47 70 83 69), which is one of the old passages couverts (covered passageways). This
one was built in 1847. Shop for antique children’s books at 25. Librarie Roland Buret
6 Passage Verdeau. Continue through Verdeau
3
10

64
cont’d
until you enter Passage Jouffroy which hosts
mainly bookstores but where you can find the well
known 24. Photo Verdeau at #47 (it recently
moved to Jouffroy from Verdeau) (01 47 70 51
91) . Also note the charming little 26. Hôtel Chopin if you are looking for a quaint if simple room.
Follow this Passage until it ends and cross the
Blvd Montmartre into the final Passage and the
oldest of them all, named 27. Panoramas built
in 1799-1800. This passage is home to restaurants and cafés. Two are particularly noteworthy
— 28. Le Valentin for tea at number 30 or 29.
Racines at number 8, which offers a wide selection of organic wines and Italian charcuterie plus a
small selection of market choices each day. This
place is a find. Reserve for dinner if you like (01
40 13 06 41).
6. 19 – 21 rue des Abbesses – Saint-Jean de
Montmartre
Exit the Panoramas onto the Blvd Montmartre and
end your day on a very kitsch note if you are the
type, and go to the 30. Musée Grevin (the wax
museum) at 10 Boulevard Montmartre. This is a
place we would avoid like the plague, but it can be
fun if you’ve got kids along. The metro station
Grands Boulevards is right nearby. If you still have
energy you can turn right onto Blvd Montmartre
which turns into Blvd Haussmann and hit 31.
Galeries Lafayette, 40 Boulevard Haussmann
and 32. Printemps at 64 Blvd. Haussmann for
a bit of department store shopping.
17. 2 rue Ronsard - Halle St. Pierre
7. 44 rue Lepic – Espace W
8. 42 rue Lepic – A La Pompnette
9. 41 rue Lepic – La Rughetta
10. 83 rue Lepic – Le Moulin de la Galette
11. 98 rue Lepic – La Divette du Moulin
12. 11 rue Poulbot – Espace Dali
13. 2, rue l’Abreuvoir – Maison Rose
14. 22 rue des Saules – Au Lapin Agile
15. 12 rue Cortot – Montmartre Museum (Musee
Montmartre)
16. Parvis du Sacre Coeur – Sacre Coeur
18. 51 rue des Martyrs – L’Epicerie Fuxia
19. 25 rue des Martyrs – Fuxia
20. 16 rue Chaptal – Musee de la Vie Romantique
21. 14 rue de la Rochefoucauld – Musee GustaveMoreau
22. 35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre – A La Mere
de la Famille
23. 31 rue du Faubourg Montmartre – Passage
Verdeau
24. 14 Passage Verdeau – Photo Verdeau
25. 6 Passage Verdeau - Librarie Roland Buret
26. Passage Jouffroy - Hotel Chopin
1. Begin at Metro Blanche in the 18th on
Blvd. Clichy
27. Passage Panoramas
2. 15 rue Lepic – Café des Deux Moulins
28. 30 Passage Panoramas – Le Valentin
3. 28 rue Lepic - Epicerie du Terroir
29. 8 Passage Panoramas – Racines
4. 26 rue Lepic – Les Petits Mitrons
30. 10 blvd Montmartre – Musee Grevin
5. 35 rue des Abbesses – Le Sancerre
31. 40 Blvd. Haussmann – Galeries Lafayette
5a. 38 rue des Abbesses – Le Greniere à Pain
32. 64 Blvd. Haussmann - Printemps
4
11

65
Quick Gourmet Tour
1

66
Quick Gourmet Tour
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
cont’d
76 rue de Seine (corner of Lobineau in the 6th) – Gerard Mulot
14 rue Lobineau – Marché St. Germain
89 rue de Seine – Pierre Marcolini
64 rue de Seine – Fromagerie 31 *
62 rue de Seine – Da Rosa
Corner of rue de Seine and rue Buci – Paul
32 rue de Buci – Aux Vrais Produits D’Auvergne
6 rue Jacob – Huilerie Artisanale J Leblanc et Fils
2
2

67
Quick Gourmet Tour
Our quick gourmet tour begins in the 6th Arrondissement at 1. Gérard Mulot, at 76, rue de
Seine (corner of rue Lobineau). Mulot offers delectables from chocolates to quiche and everything in between. We love nearly everything made
at Mulot. As you leave the shop, to your right
you’ll see 2. the Marché St. Germain, which
is an updated covered market offering the basic
fish, meat, cheese and fruit and vegetable stands.
This is not the best one in Paris, but it is small
and the quality is good.
From the market, turn left and then left again at
rue de Seine, walking north toward the river. Stop
into 3. Pierre Marcolini, at 89, rue de Seine
(01 44 07 39 07). Pierre is actually Belgian, but
don’t tell anyone and you’ll enjoy these chocolates every bit as much as the French ones.
Continue along rue de Seine, pass boulevard St.
-Germain and stop into 4. Fromagerie 31*, at
64, rue de Seine (01 43 26 50 31). You can sit
down here for an assiette de fromages (a cheese
tasting) for a reasonable charge. Or you can take
one of their lovely cheeses back to your hotel or
apartment. Only slightly farther up the street is 5.
Da Rosa, at 62, rue de Seine (01 45 21 41 30),
where you can purchase jamon ibérico (the
world’s best Spanish ham) as well as many other
things Spanish and Italian. Be ready to pay for
the Iberian ham, but it is truly better than any drug
we’ve ever known. You can also sit down and
sample from their menu and enjoy a glass of
wine.
As you approach the Buci market area (on rue de
Seine and along rue de Buci), you’ll see 6. Paul
at the corner of Buci and Seine (01 55 42 02 23).
You can often see the bakers flipping and shaping
their dough in the window. Paul is good for breakfast and for takeout sandwiches. They are a chain
with 300 stores in Europe alone.
cont’d
Also stop into 7. Aux Vrais Produits
d’Auvergne, at 32, rue de Buci (01 43 25 63
41), which offers beautiful sausages and other
products from the Auvergne region of France.
Continue along rue de Seine, turn left on
rue Jacob and you’ll see a tiny shop called
8. Huilerie Artisanale J Leblanc et Fils,
at 6, rue Jacob (01 46 34 61 55), made famous
to Americans by Patricia Wells. Many a gourmet
treks here to pick up a bottle of their pistachio oil,
but all of their oils are excellent and a bottle
makes a wonderful gift for a foodie.
1. Begin at Gerard Mulot – 76 rue de Seine at the corner of Lobineau in the 6th
2. Marché St. Germain – 14 rue Lobineau
3. Pierre Marcolini – 89 rue de Seine
4. Fromagerie 31 – 64 rue de Seine
5. Da Rosa – 62 rue de Seine
6. Paul – corner of rue de Seine and rue de Buci
7. Aux Vrais Produits D’Auvergne – 32 rue de Buci
8. Huilerie Artisanale J Leblanc et Fils – 6 rue Jacob
2
3

68
Stroll along the Rue du Cherche-Midi
1

69
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
cont’d
22 Cherche-Midi – Le Cherche Midi
50 Cherche-Midi – Au Nom de la Rose
51 Cherche-Midi – Nemrod Café
57 Cherche-Midi – Autour du Monde
66 Cherche-Midi – Mamie Gateaux (for cakes and tea)
67 Cherche-Midi – M.A. Dauliac Antique
7. 104 Cherche-Midi – Le Bistrot Landais
8. 24 rue Mayet – Tea and Tattered Pages
9. 17 rue Mayet – Hammam Pacha
10. 4 rue Mayet – Maison de Fanfan
2
2

70
A good street for an hour-long shop-andstroll, or longer.
Start at rue Cherche Midi and rue Dupin. The
closest metro stop is Rennes on the corner of
Blvd Raspail and Rennes. Walk north on Raspail
and turn left on Cherche Midi until you get to rue
Dupin. Its worth noting that if you turn right on
Cherche Midi you’ll come to 1. Le Cherche
Midi at number 22 (01 45 48 27 44). It has the
most delicious antipasto we’ve ever had outside
of Italy, but reservations must be made in advance, so come back another day once you reserve. One of the Girls’ Guide’s favorite Italian
restaurants is on this street, the eponymously
named 2. Au Nom de la Rose at 50 is worth
noticing even though it’s a chain. It’s a unique
flower shop selling only roses. Consider this
your welcome to the beautiful rue Cherche
Midi. All addresses are on Cherche-Midi except
where noted.
3. The Nemrod Café at 51 is a typical Parisian brasserie for a bite or a coffee. 4. Autour
du Monde, a chain with shops all over Paris,
has an outpost at 57 selling wearable, reasonably priced stylish clothing.
5. Mamie Gâteaux at 66 rue du Cherche-
Tattered Pages (01 40 65 94 35) where you
can pick up a cheap read and enjoy a cup of
tea.
In the same area you’ll find the newly finished
9. Hammam Pacha at 17 rue Mayet (01 43
06 55 55). Mayet is a street off rue du Cherche-Midi just before you reach Blvd Montparnasse. Why not book an afternoon to relax in
the sauna, ending in a four-hand massage?
Also on the same street you’ll find 10. Maison
de Fanfan, which is a very good consignment
shop specializing in smaller sizes. Near the tea
salon there are several different stores all under
the banner Chercheminippes, each specializing
in consignment clothing for men, women and
children, all located on rue du Cherche-Midi.
See if you can find a deal.
Follow Mayet to the end, turn left on rue de
Sèvres and follow for a long block until you get
to the Duroc metro stop.
1. 22 Cherche-Midi – Le Cherche Midi
2. 50 Cherche-Midi – Au Nom de la Rose
Midi is a charming tea salon plus they have a
boutique and a brocante (antiques) shop!
3. 51 Cherche-Midi – Nemrod Café
6. M.A. Dauliac at 67 is good for antiques
5. 66 Cherche-Midi – Mamie Gateaux
(for cakes and tea)
and vintage art as well as art deco objects. Now
take a good stroll down the rue until you reach
until you reach the cross street rue St. Romain.
Note 7. Le Bistrot Landais at 104 rue du
Cherche-Midi (01 42 22 66 23) is a good place
to duck in for some hearty Landais food, think
duck, foie gras and pâté. Further down after a
couple of blocks, turn right on rue Mayet, at 24,
is the used English bookshop 8. Tea and
cont’d
4. 57 Cherche-Midi – Autour du Monde
6. 67 Cherche-Midi – M.A. Dauliac Antique
7. 104 Cherche-Midi – Le Bistrot Landais
8. 24 rue Mayet – Tea and Tattered Pages
9. 17 rue Mayet – Hammam Pacha
10. 4 rue Mayet – Maison de Fanfan
3
2

71
Shop Rue St. Dominique and
Grenelle in the 7th
1

72
Grenelle in the 7th
1.
145 rue St. Dominique – Comptoirs Richard
2.
120 rue St. Dominique – Grégory Renard’s
3.
129 rue St. Dominique – Le Fontaine de Mars
3b.
cont’d
139 rue St. Dominique –Café Constant
4.
135 rue St. Dominique – Les Cocottes
5.
108 rue St. Dominique – L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest
6.
114 rue St. Dominique – 7 Famille
7.
Corner of St. Dominique and rue Sedillot – a pharmacy
8.
115 rue St. Dominique – Les Petites
9.
92 rue St. Dominique – St. Pierre du Gros Caillou
10.
Rue Cler market street (see also stop #32)
11.
109 rue St. Dominique – Venise Collection
12.
107 rue St. Dominique – Jacadi
13.
37 rue Malar – Truffes Folies & Lucie St. Claire
14.
99 rue St. Dominique – Bar du Central
15.
78 rue St. Dominique – Gerard Darel
16.
78 rue St. Dominique – Comptoir dse Cotonniers
17.
91 rue St. Dominique – Bérénice
2
2

73
Grenelle in the 7th
18.
89 rue St. Dominique - Kooples
19.
74 rue St. Dominique – Lemoine
20.
22 rue Jean-Nicot – Eric Chauvin
21.
20 rue Jean-Nicot – Stéphane Secco
22.
18 rue Jean-Nicot – Bellota-Bellota
23.
68 rue St. Dominique – Karl Marc
24.
81 rue St. Dominique – The Tome Dom
25.
81 rue St. Dominique – BA&SH
26.
10 rue de la Cométe - Bonsaï Rémy Samson
27.
21 bis, rue Amélie – Catherine Loiret
28.
20 bis, rue Amélie – Mayaro
29.
17 bis, rue Amélie – 7 Eiffel
30.
151 rue de Grenelle – exquisite door handles
31.
155 rue de Grenelle – Numaé
32.
Rue Cler market street (see also stop #10)
33.
186 rue de Grenelle – Petit Bateau
34.
194 rue de Grenelle – The Real McCoy
35.
43 avenue Bosquet – La Palferine
36.
29 avenue Rapp – gorgeous Art Nouveau building
37.
22 avenue Rapp - Sancerre
cont’d
3
3

74
Grenelle in the 7th
This stroll can be done in just one hour or
more depending on how much you stop.
Begin at rue St.-Dominique where it intersects with avenue de la Bourdonnais and
avenue Rapp several blocks up from the
metro stop École Militaire. Go over the
tour first, before you set out, and think
about reserving ahead for lunch or dinner
at one of the many fine restaurants we
suggest. This is a wonderful afternoon
tour after seeing the Eiffel Tower in the
morning.
Rue St. Dominique
1. Comptoirs Richard at 145 rue St. Dominique (01 53 59 99 18) is a well stocked tea and
coffee store where you can find some nice gifts
such as Eiffel Tower espresso cups, colored sugars
and Paris cardboard keepsake boxes (there are
several other locations in Paris).
2. Grégory Renard’s shop, at 120, rue St.Dominique, is worth a stop for world-class artisanal
chocolates and macarons.
Rue St. Dominique has one of our favorite bistros in
Paris, 3. La Fontaine de Mars at 129 rue St.
Dominique (01 47 05 46 44). This is the classic redtableclothed bistro serving a good Confit de Canard
(crispy duck leg) and boasting friendly service. Out
of certain windows here you can see the Eiffel
Tower sparkle at night. President Obama has dined
here.
In general, Chef Christian Constant owns this area,
boasting not 1 but 4 restaurants. We like the more
relaxed 3b. Café Constant at 139 rue St. Dominique (01 47 53 73 34) or 4. Les Cocottes at
135 rue St. Dominique (no reservations required at
Les Cocottes).
cont’d
Across from Les Cocottes at No. 108 is 5.
L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest, which would be a
good place to stop if you have a rugby fan in the
family. 6. 7 Famille, at 114, rue St.-Dominique
(01 45 51 73 25), is a small shop that has some
nice gifts, particularly for teenage girls, and a few
pieces of clothing. We like its selection of
Swildens tees.
7. The pharmacy near the corner of St.Dominique and rue Sedillot is a good place to
stock up on Darphin creams or La Roche-Posay
sunscreen. 8. Les Petites, at 115, rue St.Dominique, is wonderful for colorful prints and
cashmeres. Note the 9. St. Pierre du Gros
Caillou church, at No. 92, which was built in the
1800s, and whose chapel was built in the 1700s.
Not particularly old by Parisian standards, but a
charming neighborhood church nonetheless. Not
usually open to the public.
You can turn down rue Cler and head south if you
wish, walking a block to get to the 10. Rue Cler
market street, or wait until later so you can
pick up some fresh picnic ingredients or appetizers on the way home. 11. Venise Collection,
at No. 109, rue St. Dominique, is a shoe store that
sells a well-selected assortment of heels and flats
by Sonia Rykiel, Givenchy and Chloe. 12.
Jacadi, the renowned children’s fashion store, is
at No. 107. 13. Truffes Folies is an épicerie
and restaurant located just off rue St.-Dominique
at 37, rue Malar (01 44 18 05 41). If you are a truffle fan, this is an essential stop.
14. Bar du Central, at 99, rue St.-Dominique,
is a good place stop for un verre or a coffee.
15. Gerard Darel, at No. 78, is a solid French
brand with fashionable finds often available in larger sizes, which is completely abnormal in Paris.
A favorite of Susan Sarandon and Meryl Streep
since 1973.
2
4

75
Grenelle in the 7th
One of our favorite stores in Paris is at 78 rue St.
Dominique, 16. Comptoir des Cotonniers,
for affordable chic Parisian looks. The always chic
17. Bérénice, at number 91, is a fashion find.
18. Kooples is a trendy brand at 89, rue St.Dominique, where you can find younger
“downtown” looks often in black, white or gray. 19.
Lemoine, at No. 74, is a cute little chocolate, nougat and macaron shop, in case you haven’t indulged yet. It’s known for its cannelés, which are
tiny cakes from the Bordeaux region.
Now, turn up rue Jean Nicot for several special
stores. At 22 rue Jean-Nicot (01 45 50 43 54),
you’ll find one of the great florists in a town full of
florists, 20. Eric Chauvin. Next door, 21. Stéphane Secco, whose pain au chocolat was
voted the best in Paris, can be found at 20 rue
Jean-Nicot (01 43 17 35 20). The shop is worth a
look even if you aren’t hungry.
22. Bellota-Bellota, at 18, rue Jean Nicot, is
jamón (ham) heaven and a sublime little Spanish
épicerie and café—if you feel a little Basque coming on, stop in here. Return to rue St.-Dominique
and turn left.
23. Karl Marc, at 68, rue St.-Dominique, is a
lovely new designer on the rue. 24. The Tome
Dom bookstore, at No. 81, is good for books about
Paris and travel, and for cookbooks and comics.
Check out 25. BA&SH, at No. 81, for affordably
chic fashion. Turn right on rue de la Comète and
head toward rue de Grenelle.
Rue de Grenelle
At 10, rue de la Comète, you’ll notice a little bonsai
store that you should enter. Not only does 26.
Bonsaï Rémy Samson have impressive bonsai
and lovely gardening books, but in the back garden
you’ll find a small paradise of Japanese Zen plantings. An oasis of calm beauty.
cont’d
Note the beautiful Beaux Arts and Art Nouveau
architecture of some of the buildings on rue de
Grenelle as you enter this street and make a
right.
Take your first right off rue de Grenelle and turn
right back up rue Amélie to check out the handmade-leather purse store, 27. Catherine
Loiret, at 21 bis, rue Amélie. These ingenious
designs are right for any fashion maven (09 53
65 10 40). As long as you are on rue Amélie,
you might want to pop into No. 20, 28. Mayaro, which has some interesting items for the
French home. On this same street is a new, very
modern hotel, which has reasonable rates beginning at 165 euros, for your return trip to Paris:
29. 7 Eiffel, at 17 bis, rue Amélie (01 45 55 10
01).
Return to rue de Grenelle and turn right. Notice
the 30. exquisite door handles at No.
151, from the Art Nouveau era. The corn-andlizard handles warrant a photo. Continue on
down the rue until you reach No. 155, where
you’ll find 31. Numaé for adorable baby
clothes if you have an infant to buy for (01 47 05
16 96).
When you reach rue Cler, you might want to turn
to your left and peruse this lovely 32. market
street. Selections here are good for picnics or
making a meal in your rented apartment. 33.
Petit Bateau, which you can find in the US, is
at the corner of rue de Grenelle and rue Cler, at
186, rue de Grenelle, if you need to stock up on
the T-shirts that everyone loves and kids’ pj’s.
If you must have your American food fix (think
Pop-Tarts), go to 34. The Real McCoy store
and restaurant at 194 rue de Grenelle (01 45 56
98 62).
As you reach avenue Bosquet, turn right. Here
you will find 35. La Palferine, at No. 43,
3
5

76
Grenelle in the 7th
cont’d
which is an antiques shop that’s worth walking into.
15. 78 rue St. Dominique – Gerard Darel
Turn around and head south to return to the metro
stop Ecole Militaire. If you still have some energy,
you can end your day on avenue Rapp. Return to St.
Dominique and turn left toward Ave de la Boudonnais and turn right when you reach avenue Rapp.
16. 78 rue St. Dominique – Comptoir dse Cotonniers
Notice the gorgeous Art Nouveau building at 36. 29,
avenue Rapp, which is across from 37. Sancerre, at No. 22 (01 45 51 75 91), a solid wine bar
where you can enjoy oysters and old-fashioned ambience, and of course a glass of Sancerre.
17. 91 rue St. Dominique – Bérénice
18. 89 rue St. Dominique - Kooples
19. 74 rue St. Dominique – Lemoine
Grenelle, Jean Nicot, and Ave. Rapp
20. 22 rue Jean-Nicot – Eric Chauvin
21. 20 rue Jean-Nicot – Stéphane Secco
22. 18 rue Jean-Nicot – Bellota-Bellota
Rue St. Dominique
23. 68 rue St. Dominique – Karl Marc
1. 145 rue St. Dominique – Comptoirs Richard
24. 81 rue St. Dominique – The Tome Dom
2. 120 rue St. Dominique – Grégory Renard’s
25. 81 rue St. Dominique – BA&SH
3. 129 rue St. Dominique – Le Fontaine de Mars
26. 10 rue de la Cométe - Bonsaï Rémy Samson
3b. 139 rue St. Dominique –Café Constant
27. 21 bis, rue Amélie – Catherine Loiret
4. 135 rue St. Dominique – Les Cocottes
28. 20 bis, rue Amélie – Mayaro
5. 108 rue St. Dominique – L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest
29. 17 bis, rue Amélie – 7 Eiffel
6. 114 rue St. Dominique – 7 Famille
30. 151 rue de Grenelle – exquisite door handles
7. Corner of St. Dominique and rue Sedillot – a pharmacy
31. 155 rue de Grenelle – Numaé
8. 115 rue St. Dominique – Les Petites
32. Rue Cler market street
9. 92 rue St. Dominique – St. Pierre du Gros Caillou
33. 186 rue de Grenelle – Petit Bateau
10. Rue Cler market street
34. 194 rue de Grenelle – The Real McCoy
11. 109 rue St. Dominique – Venise Collection
35. 43 avenue Bosquet – La Palferine
12. 107 rue St. Dominique – Jacadi
36. 29 avenue Rapp – gorgeous Art Nouveau building
13. 37 rue Malar – Truffes Folies
37. 22 avenue Rapp - Sancerre
14. 99 rue St. Dominique – Bar du Central
4

77
Stroll from St. Germain to
the Louvre (6th - 1st)
1

78
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
cont’d
Rue Bonaparte and Boulevard St. Germain
6 Pl. St. Germain – Café Deux Magots
172 Blvd. St. Germain – Café de Flore
21 Rue Bonaparte – Laduree
43 Rue de Seine – La Palette
60 Rue de Seine – Simone de Beauvoir’s former home
2
2

79
7.
8.
9.
cont’d
Pont des Arts
The Louvre
Place de la Concorde - Hotel de Crillon
3
3

80
This tour takes between 1 and 3 hours
depending on how much time you spend in
the Louvre. (Can be done day or night,
although some places are not open at night
of course.)
Begin at 1. Rue Bonaparte and Blvd St.
Germain across from Église St. Germain (one of
the oldest churches in Paris and worth a look). Closest metro stop is Odeon.
You will be next to the über-famous 2. Deux
Magots café at 6 Pl. St. Germain-des-Prés, which
was the favored café of Jean-Paul Sartre and
Simone de Beauvoir. Some people love to go here
to say they did. We prefer 3. Café de Flore, at
172 Blvd. St. Germain next door but in general both
are overpriced and the waiters can be less than
friendly.
Stroll on rue Bonaparte towards the Seine passing Louis Vuitton on your left. Turn right on rue
Jacob. If you are already winded (God help you!)
you can stop into 4. Ladurée (located at 21
rue Bonaparte) for lovely palmiers (elephant ears)
or any other pastry and a cup of tea. This is a
great place to buy a gift, as the boxes and packaging are as delicious as the French pastries.
Ladurée has several other locations around Paris,
including one on the Champs-Élysées as well as
another near the Madeleine. They are famous for
their macaroons.
Continue along rue Jacob, which is a wonderful
street chock-full of fabulous shops, antiques, and
bookstores. Turn left on rue de Seine. This street
is well known for its art galleries and the artist
hangout 5. La Palette at 43 rue de Seine.
They serve breakfast and it’s always a good stop
for a drink. They have been here since 1902. As
the name implies, it was frequented by painters
cont’d
back in the day and is still very popular with
tourists and Parisians alike. Continue on towards the Seine on rue de Seine stopping as
you like in the galleries. Take note of 6. 60
rue de Seine where Simone de Beauvoir lived. She was a brilliant French philosopher and feminist. Which is back down south on
rue de Seine a few blocks.
Also notice the old photo shop near the end of rue
de Seine, Roger-Viollet on your left as you approach the river, which has been selling photos of
Paris and other places since the early 1900s. Cross
the street just after rue Mazarine and go through the
small porthole doorway. And voilà — you are in the
square which is home to the spectacular Institut
de France created in 1795 and which encompasses the Beaux-Arts and the Académie
Française among other Academies.
After you are done taking pictures of the Institut
with its marvelous gold dome, cross the street
walking across the 7. Pont des Arts pedestrian bridge. This is our favorite pedestrian
bridge, which sees a lot of activity in the summer as people set up picnics with candelabras,
couscous and wine. It’s also a popular bridge
on New Year’s Eve where many Parisians congregate with their bottles of champagne because you can see the sparkling Eiffel Tower
from here. Everyone wishes each other a
“Bonne Année!” and if you are in Paris on New
Year’s, it’s a must! Enjoy the view as you pass
across and then enter one of the back entrances to the square outside the Louvre,
which will be right in front of you. Even at night
you may go in this way.
It’s fun to imagine that you’re coming home via
carriage to your palace after a ball, back in the
time of the Louis’. As you pass the small gardens on either side and walk towards the fountain, imagine you’ll have to choose which of the
many rooms you might want to sleep in tonight.
8. The Louvre is the largest museum in the
2
4

81
world. Construction began in the 12th century
on the building and it was used back then as a
palace by François the 1st as well as the Sun
King, Louis XIV. It did not become a museum
until the early 1800s. After you have marveled at
this square inside the many exterior walls of the
Louvre, walk towards the archway to your left
and pause for the dramatic view of the pyramide, then proceed through this archway and
enjoy the larger square of the Louvre site. You
can enter the museum through the pyramide,
designed by I.M. Pei and opened in 1989. There
was an uproar in Paris when it first opened, but
now most Parisians feel that the pyramide is a
perfect marriage of the new with the old. It is
especially beautiful when seen at night — the
pyramide somehow makes the entire site more
exciting and alive and with its shape echoes the
ancient past as well as feeling quite modern
even though it is now 20 years old. There are
35,000 works of art here so do not try and do it
all. Pick one small area, enjoy that and be satisfied. After your visit, stop for a bite at Café
Marly, which faces the pyramide and is open
every day for lunch and dinner. This is the best
view of the pyramide and the Louvre in Paris.
If you have time and your feet aren’t aching yet —
continue straight on towards the small Arc de
Triomphe structure which is named the Arc de
Triomphe du Carrousel. [The vrai (real) Arc de
Triomphe is a very long walk away at the end of
the Champs-Élysées.] Straight ahead are the Tuileries Gardens. The famous garden architect, Le
Nôtre, planned the Tuileries. There is a carnival
here in the summer. The sculptures in the gardens
are lovely — not far from the Arc. Note the large
piece by Louise Bourgeois, a French artist who
now lives in New York, of a large spider eerily titled
Maman (mother). This is the same sculpture you
will find at the Guggenheim Bilbao in Spain & the
Tate Modern in London. Bourgeois is an important
cont’d
artist who is still going strong into her late 90s.
She had to wait until she was quite old after her
husband and father had both died to be noticed
by the international art establishment. Enjoy the
Tuileries at a casual pace — stop for a crêpe at
one of the stands. You’ll end at the Place de la
Concorde — where Marie Antoinette had her
head chopped off. Don’t worry; they don’t do
that kind of thing anymore in Paris. Go for a tea
or a glass of champagne at the 9. Hôtel de
Crillon on the Place de la Concorde. This is
the best hotel in Paris with a fabulous gift shop.
You’ll be right near the metro stop Concorde right
on the place.
1. Rue Bonaparte and Boulevard St. Germain
2. 6 Pl. St. Germain – Café Deux Magots
3. 172 Blvd. St. Germain – Café de Flore
4. 21 Rue Bonaparte – Ladurée
5. 43 Rue de Seine – La Palette
6. 60 Rue de Seine – Simone de Beauvoir’s
former home
7. Pont des Arts
8. 93 Rue Rivoli – The Louvre / Café Marly
9. 10, Place de la Concorde – Hotel de Crillon
3
5

82
Notre Dame (6th - 5th)

83
cont’d
1. Carrefour de L’Odeon – starting point
2. 5 Carrefour de L’Odeon – Le Comptoir du Relais
2b. 4-6-8 Cour de Commerce – Un Dimanche à Paris
3. 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie – Le Procope
4. 41 rue St. Andre des Arts – Allard
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
St. Severin Church
St. Julien le Pauvre
56 rue Galande – Aux Trois Mailletz
50 & 52 rue Galande – Le Chat Huant
14 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – the Tea Caddy
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
4 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – Hotel Esmeralda
37 rue de la Bucherie – Shakespeare and Co.
21 Quai Montebello – Café Panis
Eglise Notre Dame
Square de Ile de France - Memorial des Martyrs
2
2

84
15.
16.
cont’d
55 Quai de Bourbon – Brasserie de l’Île St. Louis
31 rue St. Louis-en-L’ile – Berthillon Ice Cream
3
3

85
This tour takes between 2 and 4 hours
depending on how long you linger.
Begin at the 1. Carrefour de l’Odéon near
Blvd St. Germain. Near the metro stop Odeon. Notice the statue of Georges Danton, an early leading
figure in the French Revolution.
You might want to start with lunch at 2. Le
Comptoir du Relais, at 5 Carrefour de
l’Odeon (01 44 27 07 97) which is a café by day
where no reservations are required for lunch, and
a fancier bistro by night, when reservations are a
must. Head north towards the Seine crossing the
Blvd. St. Germain but do not go up rue de l'Ancienne Comédie. Continue a bit further along
Blvd. St. Germain to the right, heading east, and
take a left very quickly on Cour du Commerce .
This is a lovely little back way stroll.
2b. Un Dimanche à Paris, 4-6-8 Cour de
Commerce, which you'll notice on your right is a
new chocolate store, actually it's more a chocolate experience. Not only do they sell chocolates,
pastries and wonderful edible gifts, they have a
chocolate lounge with chocolate inspired cocktails
and a chocolate focused restaurant, no joke! This
chocolate wonderland exists thanks to the imagination of Pierre Cluizel, whose family has been
making chocolate since 1948.
Notice the historic 3. Restaurant Le Procope 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie on your left
where Benjamin Franklin dined. (We don’t recommend the restaurant, as it is too touristy for our
tastes.) There is also a cute toy store further
down on the left. This passageway will lead you
to rue St. André-des-Arts — turn right here. This
is a fun day or evening stroll. There are some
cute shops along St. André-des-Arts but nothing
terribly chic or original. The area is enchanting as
this is actually what Paris looked like before the
architect Haussmann tore down these small
neighborhoods in order to make the wide boule-
cont’d
vards we now see on the right bank.
Note the 4. Bistro Allard at 41 St. André-desArts (01 43 26 48 23) which is a classic bistro
and worth remembering for dinner. They are famous for their whole duck covered in olives. It’s
a very friendly place though a bit touristy. Continue along St. André until you reach Blvd SaintMichel and cross over, zigzagging a bit as you
enter the 5th Arrondissement and continue on
rue St. Séverin all the way through to rue St.
Jacques.
The 5. Church St. Séverin is worth noting for it
is a very old gothic example and its organ is quite
famous — duck in for a look.
The church began construction in the 11th century,
but most of what you’ll see dates from the 15th century. Cross over rue St. Jacques and pick up the
angled rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre to see what is
often thought of as the oldest church in Paris,
dating back to the 12th century. 6. Église St.
Julien-le-Pauvre. Here they frequently have
music performances such as Vivaldi’s Four Seasons or the Ave Maria, which we highly recommend. Look for the schedules posted around
town and near the church itself. They also have
these performances at Sainte-Chapelle, Église
St. Germain and other notable churches.
Across the street, if you are here at night, there
is a funky little café called 7. Aux Trois Mailletz 56 rue Galande at the corner of rue St.
Julien-le-Pauvre and Galande (01 43 54 00 79)
complete with a bad Edith Piaf imitator singing in
the back. The basement has a café and more
jazz. If you are in the mood for kitsch, have a
couple of glasses here.
Also on rue Galande, there is a special little
Japanese store called 8. Le Chat Huant, 50
& 52 rue Galande (01 46 33 67 56). We have
found some charming tea cups in there and other
goodies from Asia that are finely crafted. Heading
2
4

86
back up rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre towards the Seine
there is a darling tea salon called 9. the Tea
Caddy that has been at number 14 rue St Julienle-Pauvre since 1928.
At 4 rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre you’ll find the 10.
Hôtel Esmeralda immortalized in the children’s
book Linnea in Monet’s Garden (01 43 54 19 20).
Take a quick look inside — it’s about as old Paris
bohemian chic as you can get as well as a real
bargain. We understand that apartment 3 is particularly charming.
Continue along towards the Seine to the Quai de
Montebello — turn left on rue de la Bûcherie. Here
you’ll find our favorite bookshop in Paris and one of
the most unusual bookshops in the world, called
11. Shakespeare and Co. at 37 rue de la
Bûcherie (01 43 25 40 93). There are a number of
books written about it but our favorite is Time Was
Soft There by Jeremy Mercer. George Whitman, an
American now in his 90s, began the bookshop in
1951 and everybody — and we mean everybody
— has done readings here. They still have poetry
and other readings on Monday nights at 7pm.
Check the website for details. Take a long look
around this place and you’ll find many surprises.
George has let struggling writers stay here over the
years and you’ll see evidence — note the small
beds placed here and there. The place is open until
11pm and you’ll undoubtedly meet some interesting
folks here. George’s daughter now runs the shop
but his motto remains on the wall on the 2nd floor
— “Be not inhospitable to strangers lest they be
angels in disguise.” This place harkens back to a
lost time that somehow manages to live on strongly
here in this tiny shop across from Notre Dame.
If you need a quick coffee, stop in at 12. Café
Panis, 21 Quai de Montebello (01 43 54 19 71)
where all the Shakespeare & Co staff go for drinks
or tea. Café Panis is just outside the bookshop to
your right, about half a block down the street past
the park.
cont’d
After your literary exposure, you’ll be ready for
spirituality! Go across on the pedestrian bridge
(on the weekends this bridge turns into a rollerblading and skateboarding stage) to 13. Notre
Dame. Stand in line to see this monumental
Gothic beauty even if you have seen it before —
we try to go in each time we are in Paris. It is simply amazing that this church is nearly 850 years
old. If you haven’t done it, circle around to the
side and stand in line to climb to the top, there’s
a great view from the roof.
Then walk around to the back of Notre-Dame on
the Seine side through the lovely gardens and
take a much needed rest in the back garden,
which is often very quiet even when Notre-Dame
is swamped. The back of Notre-Dame is just as
impressive as the façade with its famed flying buttresses and gargoyles. Further behind Notre
Dame is a serene and moving monument that is a
bit hard to find. It’s at the very tip of Île de la Cité
and is called the 14. Mémorial des Martyrs
de la Déportation. This is a memorial to the
200,000 Jewish people and others who were deported from France during the German occupation
of the 1940’s and sent off to Nazi concentration
camps.
Pick up your mood by crossing over the bridge to
Île Saint-Louis and try the 15. Brasserie de
l'Île St. Louis at 55 Quai de Bourbon (01 43 54
02 59). This is a perfect stop for a pint of frosty cold
beer and some French fries or choucroute (the famous Alsatian dish of potatoes, wieners and sauerkraut). A drink on the terrace in fine weather is just
what the doctor ordered. Or, stroll further down the
rue St. Louis-en l’Île and sample some of the famous 16. Berthillon Ice Cream at 31 rue St.
-Louis-en-l’Île (01 43 54 31 61.)
Continue down the rue St. Louis-en-l’Île until the
end and cross over to the right bank onto Blvd
Henri IV and continue on into the Marais or go
3
5

87
cont’d
back to your hotel or apartment for a much deserved rest, you’ll be near Metro Sully-Morland.
1.
2.
2b.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
Carrefour de L’Odeon – starting point.
5 Carrefour de L’Odeon – Le Comptoir du Relais
4-6-8 Cour de Commerce – Un Dimanche à Paris
13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie – Le Procope
41 rue St. Andre des Arts – Allard
St. Severin Church
St. Julien le Pauvre
56 rue Galande – Aux Trois Mailletz
50 & 52 rue Galande – Le Chat Huant
14 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – the Tea Caddy
4 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – Hotel Esmeralda
37 rue de la Bucherie – Shakespeare and Co.
21 Quai Montebello – Café Panis
Eglise Notre Dame
Square de Ile de France - Memorial des Martyrs
13. 55 Quai de Bourbon – Brasserie de l’Île St. Louis
14. 31 rue St. Louis-en-L’ile – Berthillon Ice Cream
4

88
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
89
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
Cont.
1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice
2. Café de la Mairie
3. Annick Goutal
4. Comptoir des Cotonniers
5. The Kooples
6. Hervé Chapelier
7. Pierre Hermé
8. Zadig et Voltaire
9. Agnès B.
10. Vilebrequin
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
Agnès B.
Au Vieux Colombier
Victoire Homme
Marcel Lassance
Longchamp
Théâtre du Vieux Colombier
17. Le Bon Marché
90
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
Cont.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
Camper
Robert Clergerie
Maje
Gerbe
Poilâne
La Cuisine de Bar
Metal Pointu’s
Le Civette
Lilith
Cotélac
Cécile et Jeanne
N. Villaret
Le Cherche Midi
31.
32.
33.
34.
37.
38.
39.
40.
41.
42.
43.
44.
Heimstone
Puyricard
Kamille
Lutetia
La Maison du Chocolat
Hermès
Arnys
IKKS
Maje
Mac Douglas
Gérard Darel
Losco
35. Le Bon Marché
36. La Grande Epicerie
45.
46.
47.
48.
49.
50.
51.
52.
53.
Manoush
Repetto
Tod’s
COS
Sonia Rykiel
Borsalino
Prada
YSL
Tara Jarmon
54.
55.
56.
57.
58.
59.
60.
61.
62.
Sabbia Rosa
Baby Buddha
Ventilo
Iro
Paul and Joe
Y’s
Barbara Bui
Karry’O
Maison Fabre
91
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
Cont.
63.
64.
65.
66.
67.
JC de Castelbajac
Zef
Sonia Rykiel
Etro
Ralph Lauren
68.
69.
70.
71.
72.
73.
74.
75.
76.
Gérard Darel
Façonnable
L’Ecume des Pages
Café de Flore
Les Deux Magots
Brasserie Lipp
Eglise Saint-Germain
Louis Vuitton
Assouline
77.
78.
79.
80.
81.
82.
83.
84.
Richart
Ladurée
Simrane
Maison Rustique
Michèle Aragon
Librairie Signature
Michel Klein
Pierre Frey
85.
86.
87.
88.
89.
90.
91.
Eugène Delacroix
Arty Dandy
Jérôme Dreyfuss
Ollivary
Isabel Marant
La Palette
Galerie Documents
92
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
Note: The Saint-Germain-des-Prés area is
chock-full of stores, shops and little cafés for
the ultimate Parisian day of walking and shopping. Give yourself an entire afternoon to enjoy
this tour.
Start at the 1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice near the SaintSulpice metro station. Construction of this church,
which replaced a 13th-century church, began in 1646
and was mostly complete a century later. As you enter the church, on the right side you’ll see celebrated
frescoes by Eugène Delacroix. Be sure to turn on the
light to see them well. The church is also famous for
its organ, which was built in the late 18th century and
is one of the world’s largest. It has been played by
many renowned musicians. Light a candle in honor of
a loved one and get ready for a full day. If you need
sustenance, exit the church and turn to the right,
stopping for a coffee at 2. Café de la Mairie (8, Place
Saint-Sulpice), which has chairs that face the historic
and famous Saint-Sulpice fountain, built in the center
of the square between 1844 and 1848 and designed
by the architect Louis Visconti, who also designed
Napoleon’s tomb. This is a popular café in the neighborhood, and it has the best view.
There is something to see, do, eat, smell or buy in every
direction. You won’t be able to do it all, so it’s best not to
try. As you face the café, head to the left, walking toward
the Seine on rue Saint-Sulpice, and you’ll see 3. Annick
Goutal (12, Place Saint-Sulpice), a perfume house
known for its butterfly-capped bottles. These fragrances
make wonderful gifts for friends or yourself. Immediately
after this shop you’ll find 4. Comptoir des Cotonniers
(12, Place Saint-Sulpice) on the corner of Place SaintSulpice and rue Bonaparte, which has chic, affordable
cotton clothing. Across the street, on rue du Vieux Colombier, is 5. The Kooples (74, rue Bonaparte), which
carries a young rock-and-roll look. Next door is 6. Hervé
Chapelier (1 bis, rue du Vieux Colombier), famous for
its nylon bags. They fold up neatly, which makes them
easy to take home as gifts in your suitcase; they’re also
great to have on hand in case you do more shopping
today than you anticipated.
Before you continue down rue du Vieux Colombier,
take a right on rue Bonaparte. Three stores in on
the left is 7. Pierre Hermé’s first shop in Paris (72,
rue Bonaparte). Stand in line to get the famous
macarons or any of the other sweets. We adore the
rose-flavored macarons. This is one of the bestknown patisseries in Paris.
Turn back and take a right on rue du Vieux Colombier. Notice the two boutiques of 8. Zadig et Voltaire
(1–3, rue du Vieux Colombier) on the left after
Hervé Chapelier. Z&V presents a style that is part
Malibu surfer, part rock and roll. The first store is for
women, and the second is for men. Across the street
is an 9. Agnès B. (6, rue du Vieux Colombier)
boutique for women. This French designer gives us
a classic Parisian look and is affordably chic. At the
corner of rue du Vieux Colombier and rue Madame,
10. Vilebrequin (5, rue du Vieux Colombier) carries cute French swimming trunks for men and boys.
Also nearby is an 11. Agnès B. shop for men (12,
rue du Vieux Colombier), where you can always
find great gifts to take home to the men in your life.
A cute bistro for lunch either today or another time
is 12. Au Vieux Colombier (65, rue de Rennes),
at the corner of rue du Vieux Colombier and rue de
Rennes, with lovely art deco decor and a classic Parisian atmosphere. While the food won’t win awards,
the reasonably priced French bistro fare will keep
your pocketbook happy.
Cross rue de Rennes toward the André shoe store
(this is a discount store that we don’t think is worth
a stop) and continue north on rue du Vieux Colombier, toward the Seine. Down the street you’ll see 13.
Victoire Homme (15, rue du Vieux Colombier), a
wonderful men’s clothing store. Several doors down
is 14. Marcel Lassance (17, rue du Vieux Colombier), also excellent for menswear. Farther along is
93
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
15. Longchamp (21, rue du Vieux Colombier), a
classic French label for handbags and luggage, and
beyond that is the 16. Théâtre du Vieux Colombier
(21, rue du Vieux Colombier), one of the venues
where the Comédie Française performs. If you speak
French, buy tickets for a show.
As you come to the corner you’ll approach the Carrefour de la Croix Rouge, with five choices of direction.
If you follow rue de Sèvres, you’ll come to 17. le Bon
Marché (24, rue de Sèvres), which is the oldest
department store in Paris and one of the city’s best.
There is great shopping in each direction, but first go
down rue du Cherche Midi to the left.
On the corner you’ll see 18. Camper (25, rue du
Vieux Colombier), a Spanish men’s and women’s
shoe company, with a particularly good selection
of comfortable shoes for men. Turn left on rue du
Cheche Midi. As you turn you’ll see a large half-man,
half-horse statue, named “Le Centaure,” created in
the 1980s by the French sculptor César.
There are many shops worth noting on rue du
Cherche Midi, the first being 19. Robert Clergerie (5,
rue du Cherche Midi), which carries elegant shoes.
Next is a stock store of 20. Maje (6, rue du Cherche
Midi), which offers discounts on the brand’s wellloved French designs. A good place to stock up on
hosiery is 21. Gerbe (4, rue du Cherche Midi), which
was established in 1904. Farther along on the right,
and probably the most famous place on this street,
is the boulangerie 22. Poilâne (8, rue du Cherche
Midi). It is known for its hearty French country bread,
not baguettes. If you are ready for lunch, have a
quick bite at the Poilâne-owned 23. la Cuisine de
Bar (8, rue du Cherche Midi), offering open toasted
sandwiches on Poilâne’s celebrated bread. Across
the street is 24. Metal Pointu’s (13, rue du Cherche
Midi), which specializes in very funky silver jewelry. For a more sophisticated style, try 25. le Civette
(15, rue du Cherche Midi), or 26. Lilith (12, rue
du Cherche Midi) for a range of interesting artistic
designs. On the left, look for 27. Cotélac (17, rue du
Cherche Midi) for men’s and women’s clothing.
At No. 19, look for the lovely bas-relief above the
Catherine André shop, which depicts a bearded man
and a cherub-like figure tracing a sundial, and is
inscribed with the words “Je cherche midi.”
Step inside 28. Cécile et Jeanne* (16, rue du
Cherche Midi) for inventive costume jewelry. For
sumptuous, terribly French curtains and fabric, go to
29. N. Villaret (20, rue du Cherche Midi). To enjoy
our favorite Italian restaurant in Paris, head to 30.
le Cherche Midi (22, rue du Cherche Midi), where
reservations are essential. The 31. Heimstone (23,
rue du Cherche Midi) boutique embodies a funky,
fun bohemian vibe. Farther down on the left, look
for 32. Puyricard (24, rue du Cherche Midi) for
scrumptious chocolates from Provence.
At the end of the street, take a right and you’ll see
33. Kamille (1, Place Alphonse Déville), a boutique
that carries avant-garde fashion. As you approach
boulevard Raspail, you’ll see the 34. Lutetia* (45,
boulevard Raspail), a famous hotel and one of our
partners. This is a great place to return to for a glass
of champagne and oysters. Notice the plaque on
the side of the building before you reach the corner,
explaining that the Lutetia was used by the Nazis
during the occupation. While that’s not a charming
claim to fame, the Lutetia is still a wonderful place to
stay.
Here you can turn left if you are ready to tackle 35. le
Bon Marché (24, rue de Sèvres), or you can save
the department store for a rainy day. It’s just past the
park on your right. There are two huge buildings; be
sure not to miss 36. la Grande Epicerie (38, rue de
Sèvres), located in the second, where you can buy
all the fixings for the ultimate picnic.
94
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
If you take a right on rue de Sèvres, next to the
Lutetia you’ll find 37. la Maison du Chocolat (19, rue
de Sèvres). Next to that you’ll find one of the newest 38. Hermès (17, rue de Sèvres) stores in Paris.
Wander in even if you don’t plan to buy, because the
architecture is amazing. There’s a terribly fancy place
for ladies who lunch to have a small bite inside, but
bring a well-stuffed wallet if you want to be among
them. Across the street is 39. Arnys (14, rue de
Sèvres), a classic French gentlemen’s shop (very
expensive).
Continuing along, you’ll see 40. IKKS (12, rue de
Sèvres), a chain that carries hip and affordable
clothing for men and women. Across the street is 41.
Maje (15, rue de Sèvres), which carries new, trendy
designs. Also on this street, visit 42. Mac Douglas*
(9, rue de Sèvres) for beautiful leather goods, and
43. Gérard Darel (12, rue de Sèvres), which carries
a more mature look and clothing for larger sizes.
Continue on rue de Sèvres and you’ll arrive back
at the “Centaure” statue. For a chance to design
your own belt, visit 44. Losco (5, rue de Sèvres),
where you can pick out the type of leather and buckle you’d like to use. Now cross the street and go
down the next spoke of the star at the Carrefour du
Croix Rouge, and turn to go down rue de Grenelle.
As you circle around and pass rue du Four, you can
take a detour to check out the very feminine looks at
45. Manoush (52, rue du Four) and 46. Repetto (51,
rue du Four), where you’ll find those ballerina flats
that are all the rage.
Once you reach rue de Grenelle, turn left and continue down the street, passing the shoe boutique 47.
Tod’s (44–46, rue du Dragon) on the right. Farther
down the street is 48. COS (3, rue de Grenelle),
owned by H&M, a good stop for eclectic and affordable designs. On the right side is the iconic 49. Sonia
Rykiel (4–6, rue de Grenelle); the first store is for
enfants (children), and the second is for women.
Next door is 50. Borsalino (6, rue de Grenelle), a
store with Italian hats made famous by oh-so-many
gangster movies. Across the street is 51. Prada (5,
rue de Grenelle). In general we don’t recommend
buying non-French goods that can be bought at
home for less, but if you are tempted, go Italian! The
very French 52. YSL (9, rue de Grenelle) can be
found across from Prada, so if you have a high credit
limit, do stop in.
Take a right at rue des Saints-Pères and find 53.
Tara Jarmon (75, rue des Saints-Pères), a
good stop if you’re drawn to an uptown look. Next
door is 54. Sabbia Rosa (73, rue des SaintsPères). She can outfit you in some of the most beautiful undergarments you’ve ever seen, but it will cost
you. Across the street is 55. Baby Buddha (68, rue
des Saints-Pères), a new store that we like for bohemian-style accessories. Back on the other side of
the street is 56. Ventilo (71, rue des Saints-Pères),
well known for blazers for the country gentleman
with a serious bank account.
For a much more rock-and-roll look, cross the street
again to check out 57. IRO (70, rue de Grenelle).
Continue along until you hit 58. Paul and Joe
(62–66, rue des Saints-Pères), one of our favorite
French designers, which carries styles for kids as
well as mom and dad. At No. 69 you’ll notice a little
black sign for 59. Y’s (69, rue des Saints-Pères); if
you’re interested in art and fashion, check out Yohji
Yamamoto’s more affordable designs. Next door is
60. Barbara Bui (67, rue des Saints-Pères), whose
vision is calmer yet still quite fashionable. Across the
street, 61. Karry’O (62, rue des Saints-Pères) offers a varied collection of beautiful jewelry. Next door
is 62. Maison Fabre (60, rue des Saints-Pères),
well known for its leather gloves, which it has been
making since 1924. Continue along rue des SaintsPères to boulevard Saint-Germain, passing 63. JC
de Castelbajac (61, rue des Saints-Pères), known
for fairly outrageous designs for the untimid, and 64.
Zef (55 bis, rue des Saints-Pères), a cute stop for
kids’ clothing.
95
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
Turn right onto the famous boulevard Saint-Germain.
At the corner is 65. Sonia Rykiel (175, boulevard
Saint-Germain), where you’ll find shoes and bags. To
the left before you turn you’ll see 66. Etro (177, boulevard Saint-Germain), a designer from Milan. After
the Sonia Rykiel shop, you’ll see 67. Ralph Lauren
(173, boulevard Saint-Germain), which houses a
store as well as a café that is famous for its cheeseburger. If you are missing a taste of home, stop in.
Cross the street and you’ll see another 68. Gérard
Darel (174, boulevard Saint-Germain) store and
69. Façonnable (174, boulevard Saint-Germain), a
shop for the preppy set.
Next you’ll see 70. l’Ecume des Pages (174, boulevard Saint-Germain), one of the most beloved
bookstores in Paris. Although most of the titles are in
French, you can find some travel guides in English
and some wonderful postcards. Then you’ll see the
71. Café de Flore (172, boulevard Saint-Germain)
and, after that, the café 72. les Deux Magots (6,
Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés); across the street is
the 73. Brasserie Lipp (151, boulevard SaintGermain). These are three of the most famous cafés
in Paris and perhaps the world. Each was made
famous by the bevy of writers and historic figures
who ate and drank there, including Chagall, Camus,
Sartre, de Beauvoir and, more recently, Depardieu,
Harrison Ford and many others. Everyone seems to
have had a drink or a coffee at one of them. We, on
the contrary, don’t recommend them, because the
prices are extremely high and the service often rude.
They tend to be classic tourist traps resting on their
laurels. That said, if you must say you were there, try
the Café de Flore, which is still frequented by Parisians and where the service is slightly less rude. You
can end your tour here with a drink. If you still have
some energy, though, turn left at les Deux Magots
and head up rue Bonaparte.
Across the street you’ll see the 74. Eglise Saint-Germain (3, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés). Built in
1014, it’s one of the oldest churches in town. Step inside and have a look around. Back across the street
is 75. Louis Vuitton (6, Place Saint-Germain-desPrés); stop in if you must bring back a little something from the iconic brand. Continue north along
rue Bonaparte and pass rue Guillaume Apollinaire to
find 76. Assouline (35, rue Bonaparte), a wonderful
international book publisher selling its mark only. As
you continue, you’ll see 77. Richart (27, rue Bonaparte), which offers fabulously designed chocolates.
On the right you’ll find 78. Ladurée (21, rue Bonaparte), a good stop for pastries and tea or coffee.
Its world-famous macarons make a wonderful gift,
but they don’t store very well, so pick some up right
before you travel.
Before you reach Ladurée on rue Jacob, don’t miss
79. Simrane (25, rue Bonaparte), where you’ll find
charming French linens, napkins and tablecloths.
Turn right on rue Jacob. Our favorite shop here is
80. Maison Rustique (26, rue Jacob), which has a
green facade and specializes in books about gardening and plants. For very rich kilims and French pottery, stop at 81. Michèle Aragon (21, rue Jacob). If
you want to return home with a piece of history, visit
82. Librairie Signature (17, rue Jacob) and search
for something signed by Dalí or perhaps a famous
French écrivain (author). On the right side, find 83.
Michel Klein (9, rue Jacob), which sells items for
men, women and children and is well known for its
cool glasses. At the end of the block, you’ll find the
two stores of 84. Pierre Frey (5, rue Jacob, and 1,
rue de Fürstenberg), very well known for French
fabrics.
Take a right on rue de Fürstenberg and notice the
charming Square Fürstenberg, one of the most
sought-after places to live in Paris. If you want to
stay here on a future visit, talk to our friends at
Haven in Paris, who have a vacation rental on this
square. Eugène Delacroix lived here in the 1800s,
and the 85. Musée Eugène Delacroix (6, rue de
96
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
Points of Interest
Fürstenberg) is a small museum dedicated to his
work. Located in his former home, it’s open daily
except Tuesday.
Turning back toward rue Jacob, you can find fun gifts
at 86. Arty Dandy (1, rue de Fürstenberg). Turn
right again on rue Jacob. You’ll come to a little square
with a sphere-shaped fountain. Before that, on the
left, you’ll find 87. Jérôme Dreyfuss (1, rue Jacob),
which carries some of the most sought-after bags in
Paris. Across the street, the designer has another
store for men.
Next to Monsieur Dreyfuss’s store is 88. Ollivary
(1, rue Jacob), a gallery specializing in midcentury
antiques and found objects. Next to the gallery is a
boutique of 89. Isabel Marant, a well-loved and hip
French designer, who is married to Jérôme Dreyfuss.
In her late 40s, she still looks 25!
A great way to end your tour is with un verre de vin,
so take a left on rue de Seine and then a right to find
90. la Palette (43, rue de Seine). In the 1930s and
’40s, la Palette was frequented by artists such as
Picasso, Cézanne and Braque. Before you reach the
resto, notice 91. Galerie Documents (53, rue de
Seine), which sells fabulous old French movie posters and other graphic art. Window-shop the galleries you see along the street. If you continue on rue
de Seine, you’ll reach the Seine and the Institut de
France as well as the beautiful Pont des Arts.
*A Girls’ Guide Travel Club Partner: All GGTP
members receive discounts at these and other locations. For more information about the Girls’ Guide to
Paris Travel Club and the complete list of our
partners (there are more than 200 restaurants,
shops, hotels, spas and more!), please visit
girlsguidetoparis.com/insider/member-benefits.php.
1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice
2. Café de la Mairie: 8, Place Saint-Sulpice
Tel: 01 43 26 67 82
3. Annick Goutal: 12, Place Saint-Sulpice
4. Comptoir des Cotonniers: 12, Place Saint-Sulpice
5. The Kooples: 74, rue Bonaparte
6. Hervé Chapelier: 1 bis, rue du Vieux Colombier
7. Pierre Hermé: 72, rue Bonaparte Tel: 01 43 54 47 77
8. Zadig et Voltaire: 1–3, rue du Vieux Colombier
9. Agnès B.: 6, rue du Vieux Colombier
10. Vilebrequin: 5, rue du Vieux Colombier
11. Agnès B.: 12, rue du Vieux Colombier
12. Au Vieux Colombier: 65, rue de Rennes
13. Victoire Homme: 15, rue du Vieux Colombier
14. Marcel Lassance: 17, rue du Vieux Colombier
15. Longchamp: 21, rue du Vieux Colombier
16. Théâtre du Vieux Colombier: 21, rue du Vieux Colombier
Tel: 01 44 39 87 00
17. Le Bon Marché : 24, rue de Sèvres
18. Camper: 25, rue du Vieux Colombier
19. Robert Clergerie: 5, rue du Cherche Midi
20. Maje: 6, rue du Cherche Midi
21. Gerbe: 4, rue du Cherche Midi
22. Poilâne: 8, rue du Cherche Midi Tel: 01 45 48 42 59
23. La Cuisine de Bar: 8, rue du Cherche Midi
Tel: 01 45 48 45 69
24. Metal Pointu’s 13, rue du Cherche Midi
25. Le Civette: 15, rue du Cherche Midi
26. Lilith: 12, rue du Cherche Midi
27. Cotélac: 17, rue du Cherche Midi
28. Cécile et Jeanne: 16, rue du Cherche Midi
29. N. Villaret: 20, rue du Cherche Midi Tel: 01 45 44 02 50
30. Le Cherche Midi: 22, rue du Cherche Midi
Tel: 01 45 48 27 44
31. Heimstone: 23, rue du Cherche Midi
32. Puyricard: 24, rue du Cherche Midi
33. Kamille: 1, Place Alphonse Déville
34. *Lutetia: 45, boulevard Raspail Tel: 01 49 54 46 90
35. Le Bon Marché: 24, rue de Sèvres Tel: 01 44 39 80 00
36. La Grande Epicerie: 38, rue de Sèvres
Tel: 0 1 44 39 81 00
37. La Maison du Chocolat: 19, rue de Sèvres
Tel: 01 45 44 20 40
97
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
Points of Interest Cont.
38. Hermès: 17, rue de Sèvres Tel: 01 42 22 80 83
39. Arnys: 14, rue de Sèvres
40. IKKS: 12, rue de Sèvres Tel: 01 45 44 42 50
41. Maje: 15, rue de Sèvres
42. *Mac Douglas: 9, rue de Sèvres Tel: 01 45 48 14 09
43. Gérard Darel: 12, rue de Sèvres
44. Losco: 5, rue de Sèvres Tel: 01 42 22 77 47
45. Manoush: 52, rue du Four Tel: 01 42 22 78 45
46. Repetto: 51, rue du Four Tel: 01 45 44 98 65
47. Tod’s: 44–46, rue du Dragon Tel: 01 53 63 39 00
48. COS: 3, rue de Grenelle Tel: 01 40 48 28 50
49. Sonia Rykiel: 4–6, rue de Grenelle
50. Borsalino: 6, rue de Grenelle Tel: 01 42 22 88
51. Prada: 5, rue de Grenelle Tel: 0 1 45 48 53 14
52. YSL: 9, rue de Grenelle Tel: 01 42 22 67 97
53. Tara Jarmon: 75, rue des St-Pères Tel: 01 45 44 36 14
54. Sabbia Rosa: 73, rue des St- Pères Tel: 01 45 48 88 37
55. Baby Buddha : 68, rue des St-Pères
Tel: 01 45 48 08 00
56. Ventilo: 71, rue des St-Pères Tel: 01 45 44 18 50
57. Iro: 70, rue de Grenelle Tel: 01 45 48 04 06
58. Paul and Joe: 62–66, rue des St-Pères
59. Y’s: 69, rue des St-Pères Tel: 01 45 44 50 00
60. Barbara Bui: 67, rue des St-Pères Tel: 01 45 44 37 21
61. Karry’O: 62, rue des St-Pères
62. Maison Fabre: 60, rue des St-Pères Tel: 01 42 22 44 86
63. JC de Castelbajac: 61, rue des St-Pères
Tel: 09 64 48 48 54
64. Zef: 55 bis, rue des St-Pères Tel: 01 42 22 02 93
65. Sonia Rykiel: 175, boulevard Saint-Germain
66. Etro: 177, boulevard Saint-Germain Tel: 01 45 48 18 17
67. Ralph Lauren: 173, boulevard Saint-Germain
68. Gérard Darel: 174, boulevard Saint-Germain
69. Façonnable: 174, boulevard Saint-Germain
70. L’Ecume des Pages: 174, boulevard Saint-Germain
Tel: 01 45 48 54 48
71. Café de Flore: 172, boulevard Saint-Germain
Tel: 01 45 48 55 26
72. Les Deux Magots: 6, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Tel: 01 45 48 55 25
73. Brasserie Lipp: 151, boulevard Saint-Germain
Tel: 01 45 48 53 91
74. Eglise Saint-Germain: 3, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés
75. Louis Vuitton: 6, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés
76. Assouline: 35, rue Bonaparte
77. Richart: 27, rue Bonaparte Tel: 01 56 81 16 10
78. Ladurée: 21, rue Bonaparte Tel: 01 44 07 64 87
79. Simrane: 25, rue Bonaparte Tel: 01 43 54 90 73
80. Maison Rustique: 26, rue Jacob
81. Michèle Aragon: 21, rue Jacob
82. Librairie Signature: 17, rue Jacob Tel: 01 46 34 92 23
83. Michel Klein: 9, rue Jacob
84. Pierre Frey: 5, rue Jacob, and 1, rue de Fürstenberg
Tel: 01 46 33 73 00
85. Musée Eugène Delacroix: Square Fürstenberg
Tel: 01 44 41 86 50
86. Arty Dandy: 1, rue de Fürstenberg Tel: 01 43 54 00 36
87. Jérôme Dreyfuss: 1, rue Jacob Tel: 01 56 81 85 30
88. Ollivary: 1, rue Jacob
89. Isabel Marant: 1, rue Jacob
90. la Palette: 43, rue de Seine
91. Galerie Documents: 53, rue de Seine
98
1

99
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
cont’d
6 Place des Vosges – Victor Hugo’s house and museum
7. 3 rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Theiere
8. 7 rue des Rosiers – Custo*
9. 9 rue des Rosiers – La Marthe*
11. 2 rue des Hospitalieres – St. Gervais – Chez Marianne
2
2

100
13.
cont’d
31-33 rue des Blancs Manteaux – Les Bains du Marais
14a. 109 rue Vielle du Temple – Breizh Café
20.
5 rue Thorigny – Musee Picasso**
(The Picasso Museum is temporarily closed for
renovations until 2012.)
3
3

101
21.
22.
23.
cont’d
29-31 rue de Poitou – Hotel du Petit Moulin
39 rue de Bretagne – Marché Enfants Rouges
13 Blvd. du Temple – Murano Hotel
4
4

102
This walk is approx. 1.5 miles and will take
you between 1-4 hours depending how
much shopping you do and how long you
linger. The walk begins at the most beautiful square in Paris and lets you wander
around the ancient, adorable streets of the
Marais.
Begin at the 1. Place des Vosges in the 4th.
This square is recognized by most as the oldest
and most beautiful square in Paris. (see 15 must
do’s) The square was built by King Henri IV in
1605 and inaugurated in 1612 for the wedding of
Louis XIII and Anne of Austria. You can spend
some real time here either for a drink, breakfast,
lunch, or dinner, or by visiting the shops and galleries underneath the arches.
In addition there are two museums on the square,
2. Victor Hugo’s house (open daily 10-5:40,
except mondays) at 6 Place des Vosges (01 42 72
10 16) and 3. Hôtel de Sully at 62 rue St. Antoine (01 44 61 20 00), which has beautiful gardens and is a photography museum. Hotel de Sully
was built in 1625 by Architect Jean Androuet Du
Cerceau. And at end: Open everyday. You can
also access the museum from 7 Place des Vosges.
4. Ma Bourgogne at 19 Place des Vosges is a
great place for a quick coffee before you are off
and is open every day from 8am-1am. This is a
quintessential Parisian bistro, not fancy food but
hearty and uncomplicated fare. Heaters are often
turned on so you can sit outside and enjoy the view
of the Place even in winter. A page on everything
Place des Vosges has to offer can be found here.
As you face Pavillon de la Reine, the only hotel on
the square, exit the square to the left and continue
on rue des Francs-Bourgeois to check out the
shops. There are many here we like including
5. Autour du Monde at #8 and #12 rue des
Francs-Bourgeois (you can find those famous
French Bensimon sneakers at the ADM store at
cont’d
#12) and 6. Camper, 9 rue des FrancsBourgeois, for those great walking shoes from
Spain. Turn left on rue Pavée (you can continue
down Francs-Bourgeois but come back for this
turn) and then right on rue des Rosiers. This is a
very famous street in Paris, it is ancient and the
former epicenter of what was primarily a Jewish
neighborhood dating back to the 13th century.
While the area now is terribly trendy, you can still
find synagogues nearby.
There is a great place for tea at 3 rue des Rosiers
named 7. Le Loir dans la Théière, which is
next to Annick Goutal’s perfume shop. This tea
salon also serves scrumptious desserts and lovely
lunches and the atmosphere is relaxed and artsy.
Also we like 8*. Custo at number 7 from Barcelona, for original and very colorful men’s and
women’s shirts.
The very chic 9*. Lamarthe for handbags is
also here at number 9. 10. L’As du Fallafel,
down the street at 34 rue des Rosiers is home to
the most famous falafel in Paris — this is a fun &
cheap take-out lunch. As David Lebovitz says in
his Paris food blog “You can't come to Paris and
not have a falafel at L'As. It just isn't done.”
Continue on down rue des Rosiers, and you’ll
come to 11. Chez Marianne at 2 rue des Hospitalières-St-Gervais on the corner. Chez
Marianne also has falafel plus all the meze you
can eat if you prefer to sit down, and the setting is
more charming than L’As. Note: Falafel places are
often closed on Saturdays and quite busy on Sundays. Save room for the Russian & Jewish pastries across the street at 12. Sacha
Finkelsztajn at 27 rue des Rosiers. At the end
of rue des Rosiers turn right and continue on rue
Vieille-du-Temple.
Rue des Blancs-Manteaux has some cute shops
as well as the 13. Bains du Marais at 31-33
rue des Blancs-Manteaux profiled in the Out of
the Ordinary section. This is the very chic Turk-
2
5

103
ish hammam and spa and is a great place to wind
down after a day of walking through Paris. Hammams, which are similar to a steam room, are all the
rage in Paris. (01 44 61 02 02) Call in advance to
reserve a massage and steam.
Continue along rue Vieille-du-Temple and you’ll cross
rue des Francs-Bourgeois again if you want to check
out some of the shops you missed earlier.
Back on rue Vieille-du-Temple continuing north you’ll
pass 14. Paul & Joe at 56 rue Vieille-du-Temple,
a shop we love for both men and women. Note: if
you are still hungry tuck into 109 rue Vielle du Temple for a scrumptious crepe at 14a. Breizh Café.
This is one of the best creperies in Paris.
15. Manoush at 75 rue Vieille-du-Temple across
the street is worthy of a look. 16. Robert and
Louise at 64 rue Vieille-du-Temple (01 42 78 55 89)
is an excellent restaurant on this street, which is profiled in our Dining section. Check it out and see if
you’d like to come back for dinner. We adore their
steak cooked over the open fire.
17. Des Gars dans la Cuisine is another restaurant a bit further down at 72 rue Vieille-du-Temple
(01 42 74 88 27) that attracts a crowd for its trendy
setting and good eats. Continuing further along you’ll
come to the corner of rue de la Perle and rue Vieilledu-Temple where you’ll find the most popular bar in
the Marais (not counting the gay bars) called 18. La
Perle at 78 rue Vieille- du-Temple profiled in our
Dining section under Bars. Forget getting a table
here at night. Everyone just stands and drinks on the
street hoping to see the models that often frequent
the place.
19. Consuelo Zoelly at 22 rue de la Perle (01 42
cont’d
Museum if you’d like to get some culture in. Take
a right on rue de la Perle and then left on rue de
Thorigny for the Musée Picasso** (The Picasso
Museum is temporarily closed for renovations until
2012.) It’s a small yet very well done museum covering a wide range of his work plus they have some
wonderful photographs of the artist. The mansion
that houses the museum is gorgeous, as is the garden out back. From here exit out to rue de Thorigny
and back to rue Vieille-du-Temple turning left then
left again on rue des Coutures-Saint-Gervais and
then right on rue Vieille-du-Temple. Continue to rue
de Poitou, where you’ll turn left. The street has
many small special shops as well as 21. Christian
Lacroix’s Hôtel du Petit Moulin at 29-31 rue
de Poitou, profiled in our Where To Stay section. Take a peek into the lobby and grab a brochure. Turn right at the end of the street onto rue
Charlot. Continue on Charlot just about to rue de
Bretagne where you’ll see an entrance to the 22.
Marché des Enfants Rouges on your left.
This is the oldest covered market in Paris. This
isn’t a proper food market although there are a
few stalls, but it is a great place to buy a cheap
and excellent lunch if you haven’t already
stopped. Enjoy Moroccan, or excellent Japanese, French, Italian or Caribbean food —
tables abound, but order first from the stalls.
Exit on rue de Bretagne and enjoy strolling
through all the small food vendors on this market
street. Turn right continuing on rue de Bretagne
until you reach rue de Saintonge where you’ll
turn left. Turn left again on rue de Turenne and
right on Charlot until you reach Blvd. du Temple.
If you turn left here you’ll hit the large metro station of République and if you turn right you can
72 09 16) is an American/Swiss designer residing in
Paris. This is her only shop in Paris. We appreciate
her inventive yet very wearable styles.
From here you are very close to the 20. Picasso
3
6

104
take a look at the 23. Murano Hotel at 13
Blvd. du Temple (one of the trendiest places in
Paris). Stop in for a drink if you are dressed for
it. Across the street is the historic Cirque
d’Hiver. Note the interesting architectural detail
on the side of this circular building. Metro home
but be sure to come back to the Marais for dinner one evening or at least drinks — it’s always
a hopping fun place to be at night. You won’t be
far from the Filles du Calvaire metro stop which
is slightly further down south on the Boulevard
du Temple at the corner of rue Filles du Calvaire.
cont’d
du Marais
14a.109 rue Vielle du Temple – Breizh Café
20. 5 rue Thorigny – Musee Picasso
21. 29-31 rue de Poitou– Hotel du Petit Moulin
1.
2.
6 Place des Vosges – Victor Hugo’s house and
museum
22. 39 rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants
Rouges
23. 13 Blvd. du Temple – Murano Hotel
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
3 rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Theiere
8.
7 rue des Rosiers – Custo
9.
9 rue des Rosiers – La Marthe
11. 2 rue des Hospitalieres – St. Gervais –
Chez Marianne
13. 31-33 rue des Blancs Manteaux – Les Bains
4
7

105
5th
h Arro
ondisssem
ment Walkk Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.
106
5th
h Arro
ondisssem
ment Walkk 1. Sh
hakespeare aand Compan
ny, 37, rue de
e la Bû
ûcherie, start
2. Egglise St.‐Julie
en‐le‐Pauvre,, rue St.‐Julie
en‐le‐
Paauvre 3. Egglise St.‐Séve
erin, 3, rue des Prêtres‐SSt.‐Séverin
4. M
Musée nation
nal du Moyen Age, 6, Plaace Paul Paainlevé 5. Laa Sorbonne
6. Paanthéon, Plaace du Panth
héon
7. Egglise St.‐Etienne‐du‐Mon
nt, Place Ste.‐
Geneviève
107
5th
h Arro
ondisssem
ment Walkk 8. Mu
usée de la prréfecture de
e police, 4, ru
ue de la Mon
ntagne‐Ste.‐‐Geneviève
9. Plaace Maubertt 10. Eric Kayser, 14,, rue Monge
e
11. Egllise St.‐Nicollas‐du‐Chard
donnet, 23, rrue des Bern
nardins
12. Heemingway’s H
House, 74, ru
ue du Cardin
nal Lemoine
13. Rue Mouffetarrd 14. Less Arènes de Lutèce, 47, rrue Monge 15. La G
Grande Mosq
quée de Paris, 2 bis, Placce du Puits d
de l'Ermite 16. Jard
din des Planttes, Muséum
m national d'histoire natu
urelle, La Grrande Galeriee de l'Evolution, 3
36, rue Geofffroy‐St.‐Hilaire
108
5th Arrondissement Walk
17. Jardin Tino Rossi (Musée de la sculpture en plein air), quai St.Bernard
18. Institut du Monde Arabe, Le Zyriab, 1, rue des Fossés-St.Bernard
19. La Tour d’Argent, 15, quai de la Tournelle
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
Shakespeare and Company, 37, rue de la Bûcherie
Eglise St.-Julien-le-Pauvre, rue St.-Julien-le-Pauvre
Eglise St.-Séverin, 3, rue des Prêtres-St.-Séverin
Musée national du Moyen Age, 6, Place Paul Painlevé
La Sorbonne
Panthéon, Place du Panthéon
Eglise St.-Etienne-du-Mont, Place Ste.-Geneviève
Musée de la préfecture de police, 4, rue de la Montagne-Ste.Geneviève
Place Maubert
Eric Kayser, 14, rue Monge
Eglise St.-Nicolas-du-Chardonnet, 23, rue des Bernardins
Hemingway’s House, 74, rue du Cardinal Lemoine
Rue Mouffetard
Les Arènes de Lutèce, 47, rue Monge
La Grande Mosquée de Paris, 2, Place du Puits-de-l'Ermite
Jardin des Plantes, Muséum national d’histoire naturelle, La
Grande Galerie de l'Evolution, 36, rue Geoffroy-St.-Hilaire
Jardin Tino Rossi (Musée de la sculpture en plein air), quai St.Bernard
Institut du Monde Arabe, Le Zyriab, 1, rue des Fossés-St.-Bernard
La Tour d’Argent, 15, quai de la Tournelle
109
This tour can be done in two half-day
sessions, or the hearty traveler can take an
entire day to visit the sights of the Latin
Quarter.
Welcome to the 5th Arrondissement, also
known as the Latin Quarter because of the
large number of international students who
spoke Latin in the area starting as far back
as the mid-12th century.
Begin at 1. Shakespeare and Company, at
37, rue de la Bûcherie, just off the quai de
Montebello and rue St.-Jacques. The closest
metro stop is St.-Michel. Shakespeare and
Company is a unique bookstore and a
favorite for any literary lover. It was
founded by George Whitman, an American
resting in Paris after World War II and
brushing up on his French at the Sorbonne.
The books he accumulated while studying
warranted the opening of the store, where
many notable writers passed through to
read, write or take a bed during tough
times. The store still encourages new and
established scribes to share their work
during regularly scheduled readings.
After perusing the many books, exit the
store and turn right, into the adjacent park
at Square René Viviani. Spin around for a
fabulous view of Notre Dame, and then find
a leaning tree in the back right corner.
You’re now looking at what is believed to
be the oldest tree in Paris, planted in 1602.
Continue past the tree to the gate in the
right corner and enter 2. Eglise St.-Julien-lePauvre on your left. It’s said that parts of
the church date as far back as the 6th
century, but most of it is a mix of Roman
and Gothic influences from the 11th and
12th centuries. It became a Greek Orthodox
church in the late 1800s because there
were so many other Catholic churches
nearby, including the one you will be
visiting next.
Turn left out of the church and cross rue du
Petit Pont ahead, and you’ll be looking at
the side of 3. Eglise St.-Séverin. Note the
expressive gargoyles hanging off the side of
the building, and then walk around to the
front of the church and admire the flames
above, which lend credence to its
architectural style, Flamboyant Gothic.
Compare the 16th-century stained glass in
the back of the church with the newer 19thand 20th-century designs in the front. Exit
at the back left and turn right onto St.Jacques, right onto St.-Germain and left into
the Square de Cluny.
Walk to the far left and admire the gardens
and the medicinal plants scattered
throughout. Follow the signs around to the
right for the 4. Musée national du Moyen
Age, inside of which you’ll find medieval art,
stained glass, gothic sculpture and the
museum’s most prized possession, a
collection of 15th-century tapestries called
"The Lady and the Unicorn.”
Exiting the museum, step into the small
garden across the street and you’ll be
looking at one of the buildings of the 5.
Sorbonne. It was founded in 1257, making
it one of the first universities in the world,
and now has 18 locations. Entrance to the
110
school is only possible with a student or
staff ID, but anyone can apply for
enrollment.
Turn left onto rue des Ecoles, and then right
onto rue St.-Jacques. Climb the hill and
make a right onto rue Soufflot, and you’ll be
staring at the 6. Panthéon. Honestly, it’s no
St. Peter’s, but you can tour the Panthéon
to see where some of the French greats
were buried, like Victor Hugo, Marie Curie
and Voltaire. Or go to the roof for expansive
views of Paris.
Exiting the building to the right, follow it
around to the back, and you’ll find the
impressive 7. Eglise St.-Etienne-du-Mont,
the site of many pilgrimages to visit the
patron saint of the church, who is honored
for saving Paris from Attila the Hun.
Completed in 1626, this Gothic church took
over 125 years to create.
Turn right down the windy rue de la
Montagne-Ste.-Geneviève and cross over
rue des Ecoles, and you’ll see an
institutional-looking building on your left,
which houses a police station as well as the
8. Musée de la prefecture de police. You
need to walk through the police station to
reach the museum on the second floor, but
you will be rewarded with something other
than your typical art and sculpture
collections. While most information is in
French, you can grab an English brochure to
read about the crimes and descriptions of
serial killers. You’ll also see an assortment
of murder weapons, such as a guillotine,
hammers, ice picks and pistols.
Outside on the corner, you’ll find the 9.
Place Maubert, and if you time your visit
for a Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday
morning, you’ll be in for a gastronomical
treat, thanks to a farmer’s market selling
the best of the season. Grab some fresh
fruit, a strong, French cheese and some
charcuterie for a spontaneous outdoor
picnic. Fromagerie Laurent Dubois, at 47,
boulevard St.-Germain, has some of the
best cheese in Paris.
If it’s not a market day, there are also good
specialty shops at the Place Maubert for
sampling similar local fare. You can also
turn right on St.-Germain and right onto rue
Monge for 10. Eric Kayser. Purchase a
baguette, pastry or any other bread product
that catches your eye at this award-winning
boulangerie. With cheese and bread, you’ll
be all set for a picnic in the Jardin des
Plantes, which you’ll find later in this tour.
Just across the street on the corner of rue
Monge and rue des Bernardins is 11. Eglise
St.-Nicolas-du-Chardonnet. This church is
the headquarters of the less-thantraditional Society of St.-Pius, which in the
1970s did not agree with many changes in
church laws and was to be expelled from
the location. It never left and still remains
today. It continues to believe in delivering
the mass in Latin with the altar and priest
facing away from the congregation.
Continue left up rue Monge, crossing rue
des Ecoles, and turn right on rue du
Cardinal Lemoine. Go up the hill to No. 74,
111
where you’ll see a plaque announcing the
residence of 12. Ernest Hemingway. This is
where Hemingway lived with his first wife
and wrote A Moveable Feast.
If your legs can take you no farther, end the
day’s tour ahead on 13. rue Mouffetard, a
foodie-filled street. Beware of the many
tourist spots, and head down the hill where
there are a few decent spots to eat.
Retrace your steps back to rue Lacépède
and cross rue Geoffroy-St.-Hilaire and enter
the gates to the 16. Jardin des Plantes and
the Muséum national d'histoire naturelle.
Stay to the left and you’ll dead-end into the
Cabinet d’Histoire, or continue to the right
to the Grande Galerie de l'Evolution, which
will entertain kids and adults alike with its
life-size animal displays. You’ll see whales,
monkeys and birds all hanging from the
ceiling, with elephants, dinosaurs and
giraffes surrounding them. Want something
more lifelike? Step into the garden’s
menagerie to interact with live animals, or
simply wander the beautiful grounds and
admire the flowers, trees and large
collection of medicinal plants.
For the diehards ready to see all of the 5th in
a day, retrace your steps back down to rue
Monge and continue until you see the
simple archway for the 14. Arènes de
Lutèce. Step inside and you’ll find an old
Roman arena that once held up to 15,000
spectators. Built around the end of the first
century AD, it was rediscovered under
debris in 1869. While you will no longer be
able to catch any gladiators doing battle,
you will find students playing sports or
French men playing boules. Walk all the way
through to see the gardens and fountain in
the back. Pass the playground, and exit the
gate to the left onto rue des Arènes. Turn
right on rue Linné, right on rue Lacépède
and left onto rue de Quatrefages.
Exit the opposite end of the gardens onto
the Place Valhubert, crossing the few
streets directly in front of you until you
reach the quai St.-Bernard. Turn left on the
quai and take the lower path down to the
water to 17. Jardin Tino Rossi (Musée de la
sculpture en plein air). Wander the series
of serene walkways, and just before you
reach the bridge, turn left to return to
street level.
Halfway down the block, you’ll see a
beautiful tiled archway for the 15. Grande
Mosquée de Paris. The mosque was
completed in 1926 as a sign of appreciation
to the Muslim community for helping the
French battle the Germans in World War I.
There is an area for worship and study, and
visitors can tour part of the facility and
enjoy the café’s mint tea and North African
food.
The large glass 18. Institut du Monde Arabe
will be in front of you. Cross the street and
enter the sun-sensitive building. You can
learn more about Islamic history,
archaeology and arts here. Enjoy the quality
bookshop on the ground floor, or go
straight to the roof for panoramic views of
Paris. If you want to enjoy a meal with your
view, make a reservation at the Lebanese
restaurant Le Zyriab, also on the roof.
112
If you’d prefer some French food after your
long tour of the 5th Arrondissement, make
a reservation at the high-end, one-starred
Michelin restaurant 19. La Tour d’Argent,
just down the street at 15, quai de la
Tournelle. It not only offers outstanding
food, but its dining room has spectacular
views of Notre Dame.
Alternately, a less expensive but very
romantic place to dine is Le Coupe-Chou, at
9–11, rue de Lanneau, near the Sorbonne.
There’s also the newer Restaurant Sola, at
12, rue de l'Hôtel Colbert, for sublime
French-Japanese fusion. All restos require
reservations.
113

The Girls` Guide to Paris Walking Tour Entire Set!

Transcription

Similar documents

5th arrondissement

4 COMPLEMENTARY ACTIVITY SECTORS

Programm

Battlegrounds and beluga - Office du tourisme de Québec

Two-part agritourism tour – 2 days

Chris Geary - Harness Racing NSW

Pacy-sur-Eure`s Town Centre Circuit

hotel astoria opera - Paris

Welcome to the IP Summit!

Article - Wide Painting