Contents - LessonPaths
Transcription
Contents - LessonPaths
Contents Articles Culture of France 1 Brittany 20 Normandy 47 Languedoc 65 Dauphin€ 71 Burgundy 81 Picardy 86 Provence 91 Alsace 121 County of Flanders 144 Lorraine (duchy) 155 Corsica 159 Savoy 171 References Article Sources and Contributors 179 Image Sources, Licenses and Contributors 182 Article Licenses License 189 Culture of France 1 Culture of France Masterpiece painting by Eug€ne Delacroix called Liberty Leading the People portrays the July Revolution using the stylistic views of Romanticism. Since Liberty is part of the motto •Libert‚, ‚galit‚, fraternit‚ƒ, as the French put it, this painting has became the primary symbol of the French Republic. Part of a series on the Culture of France People Cuisine Festivals Religion Art Literature Sport „ „ „ „ France portal v t e [1] The culture of France and of the French people has been shaped by geography, by profound historical events, and by foreign and internal forces and groups. France, and in particular Paris, has played an important role as a center of high culture since the 17th century, first in Europe, and from the 19th century on, world wide. From the late 19th century, France has also played an important role in cinema, fashion and cuisine. The importance of French culture Culture of France has waxed and waned over the centuries, depending on its economic, political and military importance. French culture today is marked both by great regional and socioeconomic differences and by strong unifying tendencies. =Problems in defining "French" culture Wherever one comes from, "culture" consists of beliefs and values learned through the socialization process as well [2][3] as material artifacts. "Culture is the learned set of beliefs, values, norms and material goods shared by group members. Culture consists of everything we learn in groups during the life course-from infancy to old age." The conception of "French" culture however poses certain difficulties and presupposes a series of assumptions about what precisely the expression "French" means. Whereas American culture posits the notion of the "melting-pot" and cultural diversity, the expression "French culture" tends to refer implicitly to a specific geographical entity (as, say, "metropolitan France", generally excluding its overseas departments) or to a specific historico-sociological group defined by ethnicity, language, religion and geography. The realities of "Frenchness" however, are extremely complicated. Even before the late 18th-19th century, "metropolitan France" was largely a patchwork of local customs and regional differences that the unifying aims of the Ancien R‚gime and the French Revolution had only begun to work against, and today's France remains a nation of numerous indigenous and foreign languages, of multiple ethnicities and religions, and of regional diversity that includes French citizens in Corsica, Guadeloupe, Martinique and elsewhere around the globe. The creation of some sort of typical or shared French culture or "cultural identity", despite this vast heterogeneity, is the result of powerful internal forces € such as the French educational system, mandatory military service, state linguistic and cultural policies € and by profound historic events € such as the Franco-Prussian war and the two World Wars € which have forged a sense of national identity over the last 200 years. However, despite these unifying forces, France today still remains marked by social class and by important regional differences in culture (cuisine, dialect/accent, local traditions) that many fear will be unable to withstand contemporary social forces (depopulation of the countryside, immigration, centralization, market forces and the world economy). In recent years, to fight the loss of regional diversity, many in France have promoted forms of multiculturalism and encouraged cultural enclaves (communautarisme), including reforms on the preservation of regional languages and the decentralization of certain government functions, but French multiculturalism has had a harder time of accepting, or of integrating into the collective identity, the large non-Christian and immigrant communities and groups that have come to France since the 1960s. The last 70 years has also seen French cultural identity "threatened" by global market forces and by American "cultural hegemony". Since its dealings with the 1943 GATT free trade negotiations, France has fought for what it calls the exception culturelle, meaning the right to subsidize or treat favorably domestic cultural production and to limit or control foreign cultural products (as seen in public funding for French cinema or the lower VAT accorded to books). The notion of an explicit exception fran€aise however has angered many of France's critics.[4] The French are often perceived as taking a great pride in national identity and the positive achievements of France (the expression "chauvinism" is of French origin) and cultural issues are more integrated in the body of the politics than elsewhere (see "The Role of the State", below). The French Revolution claimed universalism for the democratic principles of the Republic. Charles de Gaulle actively promoted a notion of French "grandeur" ("greatness"). Perceived declines in cultural status are a matter of national concern and have generated national debates, both from the left (as seen in the anti-globalism of Jos‚ Bov‚) and from the right and far right (as in the discourses of the National Front). According to Hofstede's Framework for Assessing Culture, the culture of France is moderately individualistic and high Power Distance Index. Now, the interracial blending of some native French and newcomers stands as a vibrant and boasted feature of French culture, from popular music to movies and literature. Therefore, alongside mixing of populations, exists also 2 Culture of France a cultural blending (le m•tissage culturel) that is present in France. It may be compared to the traditional US conception of the melting-pot. The French culture might have been already blended in from other races and ethnicities, in cases of some biographical research on the possibility of African ancestry on a small number of famous French citizens. Author Alexandre Dumas, p€re possessed one-fifth black Haitian descent, and Empress Josephine Napoleon who was born and raised in the French West Indies from a plantation estate family. We can mention as well, the most famous French-Canadian singer Celine Dion whose grandmother was a North African from Kabylie.[5] For a long time, the only objection to such outcomes predictably came from the far-left schools of thought. In the past few years, other unexpected voices are however beginning to question what they interpret, as the new philosopher Alain Finkielkraut coined the term, as an "Ideology of miscegenation" (une id•ologie du m•tissage) that may come from what one other philosopher, Pascal Bruckner, defined as the "Sob of the White man" (le sanglot de l'homme blanc). These critics have been dismissed by the mainstream and their propagators have been labelled as new reactionaries (les nouveaux r•actionnaires),[6] even if racist and anti-immigration sentiment has recently been documented to be increasing in France at least according to one poll. Language Main articles: French language, Languages of France and Language policy in France The Acad‚mie fran…aise sets an official standard of language purity; however, this standard, which is not mandatory, is even occasionally ignored by the government itself: for instance, the left-wing government of Lionel Jospin pushed for the feminization of the names of some functions (madame la ministre) while the Acad•mie pushed for some more traditional madame le ministre. Some action has been taken by the government in order to promote French culture and the French language. For instance, there exists a system of subsidies and preferential loans for supporting French cinema. The Toubon law, from the name of the conservative culture minister who promoted it, makes it mandatory to use French in advertisements directed to the general public. Note that contrary to some misconception sometimes found in the Anglophone media, the French government neither regulates the language used by private parties in non-commercial settings, nor makes it compulsory that France-based WWW sites should be in French. France counts many regional languages, some of them being very different from standard French such as Breton and Alsatian. Some regional languages are Roman, like French, such as Occitan. The Basque language is completely unrelated to French and, indeed, to any other language in the world; its area straddles the border between the south west of France and the north of Spain. Many of those languages have enthusiastic advocates; however, the real importance of local languages remains subject to debate. In April 2001, the Minister of Education, Jack Lang, admitted formally that for more than two centuries, the political powers of the French government had repressed regional languages, and announced that bilingual education would, for the first time, be recognized, and bilingual teachers recruited in French public schools. English is taught in schools as a second language. A revision of the French constitution creating official recognition of regional languages was implemented by the Parliament in Congress at Versailles in July 2008.[7] 3 Culture of France 4 Religion Main article: Religion in France France is a secular country where freedom of thought and of religion is preserved, by virtue of the 1789 Declaration of the Rights of Man and of the Citizen. The Republic is based on the principle of la‚cit•, that is of freedom of religion (including of agnosticism and atheism) enforced by the Jules Ferry laws and the 1905 law on the separation of the State and the Church, enacted at the beginning of the Third Republic (1871•1940). A January 2007 poll found that 61% of the French population describe themselves as Roman Catholics, 21% as Atheists, 4% as Muslims, 3% as Protestants, 1% as Buddhists, and 1% as Jews. France guarantees freedom of religion as a constitutional right and the government generally respects this right in practice. A long history of violent conflict between groups led the state to break its ties to the Catholic Church early in the last century and adopt a strong commitment to maintaining a totally secular public sector.[8] Catholicism Main article: Roman Catholicism in France Notre-Dame de Reims is the Roman Catholic cathedral where the The Roman Catholic Church has always played a kings of France were crowned until 1805. significant role in French culture and in French life. Most French people are Roman Catholic Christians, however many of them are secular but still place high value on Catholicism. The Roman Catholic faith is no longer considered the state religion, as it was before the 1789 Revolution and throughout the various, non-republican regimes of the 19th century (the Restoration, the July Monarchy and the Second Empire). The Official split of Catholic Church and State ("S‚paration de l'Eglise et de l'Etat") took place in 1905, and this major reform emphazises the Laicist and anti-clericalist mood of French Radical Republicans in this period. At the beginning of the 20th century, France was a largely rural country with conservative Catholic mores, but in the hundred years since then, the countryside has become depopulated, and the population has largely become more secular. A December 2006 poll by Harris Interactive, published in The Financial Times, found that 32% of the French population described themselves as agnostic, a further 32% as atheist and only 27% believed in any type of [9] God or supreme being. Culture of France 5 Islam Main article: Islam in France After Catholicism, Islam is the second largest faith in France today, and the country has the largest Muslim population (in percentage) of any Western European country. This is a result of immigration and permanent family settlement in France, from the 1960s on, of groups from, principally, North Africa (Morocco, Algeria, Libya, Tunisia) and, to a lesser extent, other areas such as Turkey and West Africa.[10] While it is prohibited in France for the government census to collect data on religious beliefs, estimates and polls place the percentage of Muslims at between 4% and 7%.[11] The Grande Mosqu•e in Paris. Judaism Main article: History of the Jews in France The current Jewish community in France numbers around 600,000, according to the World Jewish Congress and 500,000 according to the Appel Unifi‚ Juif de France, and is found mainly in the metropolitan areas of Paris, Marseille and Strasbourg. The history of the Jews in France dates back over 2,000 years. In the early Middle Ages, France was a center of Jewish learning, but persecution increased as the Middle Ages wore on. France was the first country in Europe to emancipate its Jewish population during the French Revolution, but despite legal equality anti-Semitism remained an issue, as illustrated in the Dreyfus affair of the late 19th century. However, through the 1870 D•cret Cr•mieux, France secured full citizenship for the Jews in then French-ruled Algeria. Despite the death of a quarter of all French Jews during the Holocaust, France currently has the largest Jewish population in Europe. French Jews are mostly Sephardic and span a range of religious affiliations, from the ultra-Orthodox Haredi communities to the large segment of Jews who are entirely secular. Buddhism Main article: Buddhism in France Buddhism is widely reported to be the fourth largest religion in France, after Christianity, Islam, and Judaism. France has over two hundred Buddhist meditation centers, including about twenty sizable retreat centers in rural areas. The Buddhist population mainly consists of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants, with a substantial minority of native French converts and "sympathizers". The rising popularity of Buddhism in France has been the subject of considerable discussion in the French media and academy in recent years. Culture of France Cults and new religious movements France created in 2006 the first French parliamentary commission on cult activities which led to a report registering a number of cults considered as dangerous. Supporters of such movements have criticized the report on the grounds of the respect of religious freedom. Proponents of the measure contend that only dangerous cults have been listed as such, and state secularism ensures religious freedom in France. Regional customs and traditions Modern France is the result of centuries of nation building and the acquisition and incorporation of a number of historical provinces and overseas colonies into its geographical and political structure. These regions all evolved with their own specific cultural and linguistic traditions in fashion, religious observance, regional language and accent, family structure, cuisine, leisure activities, industry, and including the simple way to pour wine, etc. The evolution of the French state and culture, from the Renaissance to today, has however promoted a centralization of politics, media and cultural production in and around Paris (and, to a lesser extent, around the other major urban centers), and the industrialization of the country in the 20th century has led to a massive move of French people from the countryside to urban areas. At the end of the 19th century, around 50% of the French depended on the land for a living; today French farmers only make up 6-7%, while 73% live in cities.[12] Nineteenth century French literature abounds in scenes of provincial youth "coming up" to Paris to "make it" in the cultural, political or social scene of the capital (this scheme is frequent in the novels of Balzac). Policies enacted by the French Third Republic also encouraged this displacement through mandatory military service, a centralized national educational system, and suppression of regional languages. While government policy and public debate in France in recent years has returned to a valorization of regional differences and a call for decentralization of certain aspects of the public sphere (sometimes with ethnic, racial or reactionary overtones), the history of regional displacement and the nature of the modern urban environment and of mass media and culture have made the preservation of a regional "sense of place or culture" in today's France extremely difficult. The names of the historical French provinces € such as Brittany (Bretagne), Berry, Orl‚anais, Normandy (Normandie), Languedoc, Lyonnais, Dauphin‚, Champagne, Poitou, Guyenne and Gascony (Gascogne), Burgundy (Bourgogne), Picardy (Picardie), Provence, Touraine, Limousin, Auvergne, B‚arn, Alsace, Flanders, Lorraine, Corsica (Corse), Savoy (Savoie)... (please see individual articles for specifics about each regional culture) € are still used to designate natural, historical and cultural regions, and many of them appear in modern r‚gion or d‚partement names. These names are also used by the French in their self-identification of family origin. Regional identification is most pronounced today in cultures linked to regional languages and non-French-speaking traditions - French language itself being only a dialect of Langue d'o†l, the mother language of many of the languages to-be-mentioned, which became a national vehicular language, like (in alphabetical order): Alsatian, Arpitan, Basque, Brezhoneg (Breton), Burgundian, Corsu (Corsican), Catal‡ (Catalan), Francique, Gallo, Lorrain, Norman, Occitan, Picard, Poitevin, Saintongeais,etc., and some of these regions have promoted movements calling for some degree of regional autonomy, and, occasionally, national independence (see, for example, Breton nationalism, Corsica and Occitania). There are huge differences in life style, socioeconomic status and world view between Paris and the provinces. The French often use the expression "la France profonde" ("Deep France", similar to "heartland") to designate the profoundly "French" aspects of provincial towns, village life and rural agricultural culture, which escape the hegemony of Paris. The expression can however have a pejorative meaning, similar to the expression "le d‚sert fran…ais" ("the French desert") used to describe a lack of acculturation of the provinces. Another expression, "terroir" is a French term originally used for wine and coffee to denote the special characteristics that geography bestowed upon these products. It can be very loosely translated as "a sense of place" which is embodied in certain qualities, and the sum of the effects that the local environment (especially the "soil") has had on the growth of the product. The use of the term has since been generalized to talk about many cultural products. 6 Culture of France 7 In addition to its metropolitan territory, France also consists of overseas departments made up of its former colonies of Guadeloupe, Martinique and French Guiana in the Caribbean, and Mayotte and R‚union in the Indian Ocean. (There also exist a number of "overseas collectivities" and "overseas territories". For a full discussion, see administrative divisions of France. Since 1982, following the French government‚s policy of decentralisation, overseas departments have elected regional councils with powers similar to those of the regions of metropolitan France. As a result of a constitutional revision which occurred in 2003, these regions are now to be called overseas regions.) These overseas departments have the same political status as metropolitan departments and are integral parts of France, (similar to the way in which Hawaii is a state and an integral part of the United States), yet they also have specific cultural and linguistic traditions which set them apart. Certain elements of overseas culture have also been introduced to metropolitan culture (as, for example, the musical form the biguine). Industrialization, immigration and urbanization in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries have also created new socioeconomic regional communities in France, both urban (like Paris, Lyon, Villeurbanne, Lille, Marseille, etc.) and the suburban and working class hinterlands (like Seine-Saint-Denis) of urban agglomerations (called variously banlieues ("suburbs", sometimes qualified as "chic" or "pauvres") or les cit•s ("housing projects") which have developed their own "sense of place" and local culture (much like the various boroughs of New York City or suburbs of Los Angeles), as well as cultural identity. Other specific communities Paris has traditionally been associated with alternative, artistic or intellectual subcultures, many of which involved foreigners. Such subcultures include the "Bohemians" of the mid-nineteenth century, the Impressionists, artistic circles of the Belle ‚poque (around such artists as Picasso and Alfred Jarry), the Dadaists, Surrealists, the "Lost Generation" (Hemingway, Gertrude Stein) and the post-war "intellectuals" associated with Montparnasse (Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir). France has an estimated 280,000-340,000 Roma, generally known as Gitans, Tsiganes, Romanichels (slightly pejorative), Boh•miens, or Gens du voyage ("travellers"). There are gay and lesbian communities in the cities, particularly in the Paris metropolitan area (such as in Le Marais district of the capital). Although homosexuality is perhaps not as well tolerated in France as in Spain, Scandinavia, and the Benelux nations, surveys of the French public reveal a considerable shift in attitudes comparable to other Western European nations. As of 2001, 55% of the French consider homosexuality "an acceptable lifestyle."[13] The past mayor of Paris, Bertrand Delanoˆ, is gay. In 2006, an Ipsos survey shows that 62% support same-sex marriage, while 37% were opposed. 55% believed gay and lesbian couples should not have parenting rights, while 44% believe same-sex couples should be able to adopt.[14] See also LGBT rights in France. Social class Main article: Social class in France Despite the egalitarian aspects of French society, French culture remains marked by social-economic class and by many class distinctionsWikipedia:Citation needed. Families and romantic relationships Household structure Growing out of the values of the Catholic Church and rural communities, the basic unit of French society was [15] traditionally held to be the family. Over the twentieth century, the "traditional" family structure in France has evolved from extended families to, after World War II, nuclear families. Since the 1960s, marriages have decreased and divorces have increased in France, and divorce law and legal family status have evolved to reflect these social Culture of France 8 changes.[16] According to INSEE figures, household and family composition in metropolitan France continues to evolve. Most significantly, from 1982 to 1999, single parent families have increased from 3.6% to 7.4%; there have also been increases in the number of unmarried couples, childless couples, and single men (from 8.5% to 12.5) and women (from 16.0% to 18.5%). Their analysis indicates that "one in three dwellings are occupied by a person living alone; one in four dwellings are occupied by a childless couple.." [17] Voted by the French Parliament in November 1999 following some controversy, the pacte civil de solidarit• ("civil pact of solidarity") commonly known as a PACS, is a form of civil union between two adults (same-sex or opposite-sex) for organizing their joint life. It brings rights and responsibilities, but less so than marriage. From a legal standpoint, a PACS is a "contract" drawn up between the two individuals, which is stamped and registered by the clerk of the court. Individuals who have registered a PACS are still considered "single" with regard to family status for some purposes, while they are increasingly considered in the same way as married couples are for other purposes. While it was pushed by the government of Prime Minister Lionel Jospin in 1998, it was also opposed, mostly by people on the right-wing who support traditionalist family values and who argued that PACS and the recognition of homosexual unions would be disastrous for French society. Currently, same-sex marriage is legally recognized in France. However, same sex marriage was a large contributing factor in the presidential election of 2012 between Fran…ois Hollande and Nicolas Sarkozy. Sarkozy, who represents the right-wing UMP party opposed gay marriage, while Fran…ois Hollande, of the left wing socialist party (France) supported it. Hollande was elected in May 2012 and the French legislative branch is currently in the process of writing and enacting a law for same-sex marriage. Role of the State The French state has traditionally played an important role in promoting and supporting culture through the educational, linguistic, cultural and economic policies of the government and through its promotion of national identity. Because of the closeness of this relationship, cultural changes in France are often linked to, or produce, political crisis.[18] The relationship between the French state and culture is an old one. Under Louis XIII's minister Richelieu, the independent Acad‚mie fran…aise came under state supervision and became an official organ of control over the French language and seventeenth-century literature. During Louis XIV's reign, his minister Jean-Baptiste Colbert brought French luxury industries, like textile and porcelain, under royal control and the architecture, furniture, fashion and etiquette of the royal court (particularly at the Ch‰teau de Versailles) became the preeminent model of noble culture in France (and, to a great degree, throughout Europe) during the latter half of the seventeenth century. At times, French state policies have sought to unify the country around certain cultural norms, while at other times they have promoted regional differences within a heterogeneous French identity. The unifying effect was particularly true of the "radical period"" of the French Third Republic which fought regionalisms (including regional languages), supported anti-clericalism and a strict separation of church from state (including education) and actively promoted national identity, thus converting (as the historian Eugen Weber has put it) a "country of peasants into a nation of Frenchmen". The Vichy Regime, on the other hand, promoted regional "folk" traditions. The cultural policies of the (current) French Fifth Republic have been varied, but a consensus seems to exist around the need for preservation of French regionalisms (such as food and language) as long as these don't undermine national identity. Meanwhile, the French state remains ambivalent over the integration into "French" culture of cultural traditions from recent immigrant groups and from foreign cultures, particularly American culture (movies, music, fashion, fast food, language, etc.). There also exists a certain fear over the perceived loss of French identity and culture in the European system and under American "cultural hegemony". Culture of France Education Main article: Education in France The French educational system is highly centralised. It is divided into three different stages: primary education, or enseignement primaire, corresponding to grade school in the United States; secondary education, or collƒge and lyc•e, corresponding to middle and high school in the United States; and higher education (l'universit‚ or les Grandes •coles). Primary and secondary education is predominantly public (private schools also exist, in particular a strong nationwide network of primary and secondary Catholic education), while higher education has both public and private elements. At the end of secondary education, students take the baccalaur‚at exam, which allows them to pursue higher education. The baccalaur‚at pass rate in 2012 was 84.5%. In 1999•2000, educational spending amounted to 7% of the French GDP and 37% of the national budget. France's performance in math and science at the middle school level was ranked 23 in the 1995 Trends in International Math and Science Study.[19] Since the Jules Ferry laws of 1881-2, named after the then Minister of Public Instruction, all state-funded schools, including universities, are independent from the (Roman Catholic) Church. Education in these institutions is free. Non-secular institutions are allowed to organize education as well. The French educational system differs strongly from Northern-European and American systems in that it stresses the importance of partaking in a society as opposed to being responsibly independent. Secular educational policy has become critical in recent issues of French multiculturalism, as in the "affair of the Islamic headscarf". Minister of Culture Main article: Minister of Culture (France) The Minister of Culture is in the Government of France, the cabinet member in charge of national museums and monuments; promoting and protecting the arts (visual, plastic, theatrical, musical, dance, architectural, literary, televisual and cinematographic) in France and abroad; and managing the national archives and regional "maisons de culture" (culture centres). The Ministry of Culture is located on the Palais Royal in Paris. The modern post of Minister of Culture was created by Charles de Gaulle in 1959 and the first Minister was the writer Andr‚ Malraux. Malraux was responsible for realizing the goals of the "droit ‡ la culture" ("the right to culture") -- an idea which had been incorporated in the French constitution and the Universal Declaration of Human Rights (1948) -- by democratizing access to culture, while also achieving the Gaullist aim of elevating the "grandeur" ("greatness") of post-war France. To this end, he created numerous regional cultural centres throughout France and actively sponsored the arts. Malraux's artistic tastes included the modern arts and the avant-garde, but on the whole he remained conservative. The Ministry of Jacques Toubon was notable for a number of laws (the "Toubon Laws") enacted for the preservation of the French language, both in advertisements (all ads must include a French translation of foreign words) and on the radio (40% of songs on French radio stations must be in French), ostensibly in reaction to the presence of English. 9 Culture of France Acad€mie fran•aise Main article: Acad‚mie fran…aise The Acad•mie fran€aise, or the French Academy, is the pre-eminent French learned body on matters pertaining to the French language. The Acad‚mie was officially established in 1635 by Cardinal Richelieu, the chief minister to King Louis XIII. Suppressed in 1793 during the French Revolution, it was restored in 1803 by Napoleon Bonaparte (the Acad‚mie considers itself having been suspended, not suppressed, during the revolution). It is the oldest of the five acad•mies of the Institut de France. The Acad‚mie consists of forty members, known as immortels (immortals). New members are elected by the members of the Acad‚mie itself. Acad‚micians hold office for life, but they may be removed for misconduct. The body has the task of acting as an official authority on the language; it is charged with publishing an official dictionary of the language. Its rulings, however, are only advisory; not binding on either the public or the government. Military service Until 1996, France had compulsory military service of young men. This has been credited by historians for further promoting a unified national identity and by breaking down regional isolationism.Wikipedia:Citation needed Labor and employment policy In France, the first labour laws were Waldeck Rousseau's laws passed in 1884. Between 1936 and 1938 the Popular Front enacted a law mandating 12 days (2 weeks) each year of paid vacation for workers, and a law limiting the work week to 40 hours, excluding overtime. The Grenelle accords negotiated on May 25 and 26th in the middle of [20] the May 1968 crisis, reduced the working week to 44 hours and created trade union sections in each enterprise. [21] The minimum wage was also increased by 25%. In 2000 Lionel Jospin's government then enacted the 35-hour workweek, down from 39 hours. Five years later, conservative prime minister Dominique de Villepin enacted the New Employment Contract (CNE). Addressing the demands of employers asking for more flexibility in French labour laws, the CNE sparked criticism from trade unions and opponents claiming it was lending favour to contingent work. In 2006 he then attempted to pass the First Employment Contract (CPE) through a vote by emergency procedure, but that it was met by students and unions' protests. President Jacques Chirac finally had no choice but to repeal it. Healthcare and social welfare The French are profoundly committed to the public healthcare system (called "s‚curit‚ sociale") and to their "pay-as-you-go" social welfare system. In 1998, 75% of health payments in France were paid through the public healthcare system. Since 27 July 1999, France has a universal medical coverage for permanent residents in France (stable residence for more than three months). Using five performance indicators to measure health systems in 191 member states, it finds that France provides the best overall health care followed among major countries by Italy, Spain, Oman, Austria and Japan (The World Health Report). 10 Culture of France Lifestyle Food and alcohol Main article: French cuisine Traditional French culture places a high priority on the enjoyment of food. French cuisine was codified in the 20th century by Georges Auguste Escoffier to become the modern version of haute cuisine. Escoffier's major work, however, left out much of the regional character to be found in the provinces of France. Gastro-tourism and the Guide Michelin helped to bring people to the countryside during the 20th century and beyond, to sample this rich bourgeois and peasant cuisine of France. Basque cuisine has also been a great influence over the cuisine in the southwest of France. Ingredients and dishes vary by region (see: Regional cuisine). There are many significant regional dishes that have become both national and regional. Many dishes that were once regional, however, have proliferated in different variations across the country in the present day. Cheese (see: List of French cheeses) and wine (see: French wine) are also a major part of the cuisine, playing different roles both regionally and nationally with their many variations and Appellation d'origine contr„l•e (AOC) (regulated appellation) laws, (lentils from Le Puy-en-Velay also have an AOC status). Another French product of special note is the Charolais cattle. The French typically eat only a simple breakfast ("petit d‚jeuner") which consists of coffee or tea, served traditionally in a large handleless "bol" (bowl) and bread or breakfast pastries (croissants). Lunch ("d‚jeuner") and dinner ("d‹ner") are the main meals of the day. Formal four course meals consist of a starter course ("entr‚e"), a salad, a main course ("plat principal"), and finally a cheese or dessert course. While French cuisine is often associated with rich desserts, in most homes dessert consists of only fruit or yogurt. Food shopping in France was formerly done almost A sweet crŠpe. CrŠpes are originally from Brittany. daily in small local shops and markets, but the arrival of the supermarket and the even larger "hypermarch•s" (large-surface distributors) in France have disrupted this tradition. With depopulation of the countryside, many towns have been forced to close shops and markets. Rates of obesity and heart disease in France have traditionally been lower than in other north-western European countries. This is sometimes called the French paradox (see, for example, Mireille Guiliano's 2006 book French Women Don't Get Fat). French cuisine and eating habits have however come under great pressure in recent years from modern fast food, American products and the new global agricultural industry. While French youth culture has gravitated toward fast food and American eating habits (with an attendant rise in obesity), the French in general have remained committed to preserving certain elements of their food culture through such activities as including programs of taste acquisition in their public schools, by the use of the appellation d'origine contrŒl‚e laws, and by state and European subsides to the French agricultural industry. Emblematic of these tensions is the work of Jos‚ Bov‚, who founded in 1987, the Conf•d•ration Paysanne, an agricultural union that places its highest political values on humans and the environment, promotes organic farming and opposes genetically modified organisms; Bov‚'s most famous protest was the dismantling of a McDonald's franchise in Millau (Aveyron), in 1999. In France, cutlery is used in the continental manner (with the fork in the left hand, prongs facing down and the knife in the right hand). French etiquette prohibits the placing of hands below the table and the placing of elbows on it. The legal drinking age is officially 18 (see: Legal drinking age). 11 Culture of France France is one of the oldest wine producing regions of Europe. France now produces the most wine by value in the world (although Italy rivals it by volume and Spain has more land under cultivation for wine grapes). Bordeaux wine, Bourgogne wine and Champagne are important agricultural products. Tobacco and drugs The cigarette smoking age is 18 years. According to a widespread clich‚, smoking has been part of French culture € actually figures indicate that in terms of consumption per capita, France is only the 60th country out of 121. France, from 1 February 2007, tightened the existing ban on smoking in public places found in the 1991 •vin law: [22] Law nŽ91-32 of 10 January, 1991 , containing a variety of measures against alcoholism and tobacco consumption. Smoking is now banned in all public places (stations, museums, etc.); an exception exists for special smoking rooms fulfilling drastic conditions, see below. A special exemption was made for caf‚s and restaurants, clubs, casinos, bars, etc. which ended, 1 January 2008.[23] Opinion polls suggest 70% of people support the ban. Previously, under the former implementation rules of the 1991 •vin law, restaurants, caf‚s etc. just had to provide smoking and non-smoking sections, which in practice were often not well separated. Under the new regulations, smoking rooms are allowed, but are subjected to very strict conditions: they may occupy at most 20% of the total floor space of the establishment and their size may not be more than 35 m•; they need to be equipped with separate ventilation which replaces the full volume of air ten times per hour; the air pressure of the smoking room must constantly be lower than the pressure in the contiguous rooms; they have doors that close automatically; no service can be provided in the smoking rooms; cleaning and maintenance personnel may enter the room only one hour after it was last used for smoking. Popular French cigarette brands include Gauloises and Marlboro. The possession, sale and use of cannabis (predominantly Moroccan hashish) is illegal in France. Since 1 March 1994, the penalties for cannabis use are from two months to a year and/or a fine, while possession, cultivation or trafficking of the drug can be punished much more severely, up to ten years. According to a 1992 survey by [24] SOFRES, 4.7 million French people ages 12•44 have smoked cannabis at least once in their lives. Sports and hobbies Main article: Sport in France Football (French: Le Foot) is the most popular sport in France. Other popular sports played in France are rugby union, cycling, tennis, handball, basketball and sailing. France is notable for holding and winning the FIFA World Cup in 1998, and holding the annual cycling race Tour de France, and the tennis Grand Slam tournament the French Open. Sport is encouraged in school, and local sports clubs receive financial support from the local governments. While football is definitely the most popular, rugby union and rugby league takes dominance in the southwest, especially around the city of Toulouse (see: Rugby union in France and Rugby league in France). The modern Olympics was invented in France, in 1894 by Pierre de Coubertin. Professional sailing in France is centred on singlehanded and shorthanded ocean racing with the pinnacle of this branch of the sport being the Vendee Globe singlehanded around the world race which starts every 4 years from the French Atlantic coast. Other significant events include the Solitaire du Figaro, Mini Transat 6.50, Tour de France a Voile and Route du Rhum transatlantic race. France has been a regular competitor in the America's Cup since the 1970s. ther important sports include: „ 24 Hours of Le Mans - The world's oldest sports car race. „ Skiing - France has an extensive number of ski resorts in the French alps such as Tignes. Ski resorts are also located in the Pyr‚n‚es and Vosges mountain chains. „ P‚tanque - The international federation is recognized by the IOC. 12 Culture of France 13 „ Fencing - Fencing leads the list of sports for which gold medals were won for France at the Summer Olympics (see: France at the Olympics). „ Parkour - Developed in France, Parkour is a training discipline with similarities to self-defense or martial arts. „ Babyfoot (table football) - A very popular pastime in bars and homes in France, and the French are the predominant winners of worldwide table football competitions. „ Kitesurfing Like other cultural areas in France, sport is overseen by a government ministry, the Minister of Youth Affairs and Sports (France) which is in charge of national and public sport associations, youth affairs, public sports centers and national stadia (like the Stade de France). Fashion Main article: French fashion Along with Milan, London and New York, Paris is center of an important number of fashion shows. Some of the world's biggest fashion houses (ex: Chanel) have their headquarters in France. [25] The association of France with fashion (la mode) dates largely to the reign of Louis XIV when the luxury goods industries in France came increasingly under royal control and the French royal court became, arguably, the arbiter of taste and style in Europe. France renewed its dominance of the high fashion (couture or haute couture) industry in the years 1860•1960 through the establishing of the great couturier houses, the fashion press (Vogue was founded in 1892; Elle was founded in 1945) and fashion shows. The first modern Parisian couturier house is generally considered the work of the Englishman Charles Frederick Worth who dominated the industry from 1858 to 1895.[26] In the early twentieth century, the industry expanded through such Parisian fashion houses as the house of Chanel (which first came to prominence in 1925) and Balenciaga (founded by a Spaniard in 1937). In the post war year, fashion returned to prominence through Christian Dior's famous "new look" in 1947, and through the houses of Pierre Balmain and Hubert de Givenchy (opened in 1952). In the 1960s, "high fashion" came under criticism from France's youth culture while designers like Yves Saint Laurent broke with established high fashion norms by launching pr…t-†-porter ("ready to wear") lines and expanding French fashion into mass manufacturing and marketing.[27] Further innovations were carried out by Paco Rabanne and Pierre Cardin. With a greater focus on marketing and manufacturing, new trends were established in the 70s and 80s by Sonia Rykiel, Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Lacroix. The 1990s saw a conglomeration of many French couture houses under luxury giants and multinationals such as LVMH. Since the 1960s, France's fashion industry has come under increasing competition from London, New York, Milan and Tokyo, and the French have increasingly adopted foreign (particularly American) fashions (such as jeans, tennis shoes). Nevertheless, many foreign designers still seek to make their careers in France. Pets In 2006, 52% of French households had at least one pet:[28] In total, 9.7 million cats, 8.8 million dogs, 2.3 million rodents, 8 million birds, and 28 million fish were kept as pets in France during this year. Media and art Art and museums Main article: French art The first paintings of France are those that are from prehistoric times, painted in the caves of Lascaux well over 10,000 years ago. The arts were already flourishing 1,200 years ago, at the time of Charlemagne, as can be seen in Culture of France many hand made and hand illustrated books of that time. Gothic art and architecture originated in France in the 12th century around Paris and then spread to all of Europe. In the 13th century, French craftsmen developed the stained glass painting technique and sophisticated illuminated manuscripts for private devotion in the new gothic style. The final phase of gothic architecture, known as Flamboyant, also began in France in the 15th century before spreading to the rest of Europe. The 17th century was one of intense artistic achievements : French painting emerged with a distinct identity, moving from Baroque to Classicism. Famous classic painters of the 17th century in France are Nicolas Poussin and Claude Lorrain. French architecture also proved influential with the Palace of Versailles, built for the powerful king Louis XIV, becoming the model of many European royal palaces. During the 18th century the Rococo style emerged as a frivolous continuation of the Baroque style. The most famous painters of the era were Antoine Watteau, Fran…ois Boucher and Jean-Honor‚ Fragonard. At the end of the century, Jacques-Louis David and Dominique Ingres were the most influential painters of the Neoclassicism. G‚ricault and Delacroix were the most important painters of the Romanticism. Afterwards, the painters were more realistic, describing nature (Barbizon school). The realistic movement was led by Courbet and Honor‚ Daumier. Impressionism was developed in France by artists such as Claude Monet, Edgar Degas, Pierre-Auguste Renoir and Camille Pissarro. At the turn of the century, France had become more than ever the center of innovative art. The Spaniard Pablo Picasso came to France, like many other foreign artists, to deploy his talents there for decades to come. Toulouse-Lautrec, Gauguin and C‚zanne were painting then. Cubism is an avant-garde movement born in Paris at the beginning of the 20th century. The Louvre in Paris is one of the most famous and the largest art museums in the world, created by the new revolutionary regime in 1793 in the former royal palace. It holds a vast amount of art of French and other artists, e.g. the Mona Lisa, by Leonardo da Vinci, and classical Greek Venus de Milo and ancient works of culture and art from Egypt and the Middle East. Music Main article: Music of France France boasts a wide variety of indigenous folk music, as well as styles played by immigrants from Africa, Latin America and Asia. In the field of classical music, France has produced a number of notable composers such as Gabriel Faur‚, Claude Debussy, and Hector Berlioz while modern pop music has seen the rise of popular French hip hop, French rock, techno/funk, and turntablists/djs. The FŠte de la Musique was created in France (first held in 1982), a music festival, which has since become worldwide Wikipedia:Please clarify. It takes place every June 21, on the first day of summer. Theater Main article: Theater of France Cinema Main article: Cinema of France France is the birthplace of cinema and was responsible for many of its early significant contributions: Antoine Lumi€re realized, on 28 December 1895, the first projection, with the Cinematograph, in Paris.[29] Philippe Binant realized, on 2 February 2000, the first digital cinema projection in Europe, with the DLP CINEMA technology developed by Texas Instruments, in Paris.[30] Several important cinematic movements, including the Nouvelle Vague, began in the country. Additionally, France is an important Francophone film production country. A certain amount of the movies created share international distribution in the western hemisphere thanks to Unifrance. Although French cinema industry is 14 Culture of France 15 rather small in terms of budget and revenues, it enjoys qualitative screenplay, cast and story telling. French Cinema is often portrayed as more liberal in terms of subjects (Sex, Society, Politics, Historical). Wikipedia:Citation needed Within the domestic market, French movies are ranked through nŽ of entries. Movies are premiered on Wednesdays. "Going to the movies" is a popular activity within metropolitan areas. Many cinema operators offer a "flat-rate pass" for approx. ƒ30 per month. Prices per movie range between ƒ5.50 and ƒ10. French major cinema operators are UGC and Path‚, mainly located in city suburbs due to the number of screens and seating capacity. Within France many "small" cinemas are located in the downtown parts of a city, resisting the big cinema operators [31] nationwide. Paris has the highest density of cinemas (movie theaters) in the world: biggest number of movie theaters per inhabitants, and that in most "downtown Paris" movie theaters, foreign movies which would be secluded to "art houses" cinemas in other places, are shown alongside "mainstream" works as Parisians are avid movie-goers. Proximity of restaurants, accessibility, ambiance and the showing of alternative foreign movies is often cited as being the advantage of these small theaters. The Cin‚math€que Fran…aise holds one of the largest archives of films, movie documents and film-related objects in the world. Located in Paris, the Cin‚math€que holds daily screenings of films unrestricted by country of origin. Television Main article: Television in France Books, newspapers and magazines Main articles: French media and French literature [32] France has the reputation of being a "literary culture", and this image is reinforced by such things as the importance of French literature in the French educational system, the attention paid by the French media to French book fairs and book prizes (like the Prix Goncourt, Prix Renaudot or Prix Femina) and by the popular success of the (former) literary television show "Apostrophes" (hosted by Bernard Pivot). Although the official literacy rate of France is 99%, some estimates have placed functional illiteracy at between 10% and 20% of the adult population (and higher in the prison population).[33] While reading remains a favorite pastime of French youth today, surveys show that it has decreased in importance compared to music, television, sports and other activities. The crisis of academic publishing has also hit France (see, for example, the financial difficulties of the Presses universitaires de France (PUF), France's premier academic [34] publishing house, in the 1990s). Literary taste in France remains centered on the novel (26.4% of book sales in 1997), although the French read more non-fiction essays and books on current affairs than the British or Americans.[35] Contemporary novels, including French translations of foreign novels, lead the list (13% of total books sold), followed by sentimental novels (4.1%), detective and spy fiction (3.7%), "classic" literature (3.5%), science fiction and horror (1.3%) and erotic fiction (0.2%).[36] About 30% of all fiction sold in France today is translated from English (authors such as William Boyd, John le Carr‚, Ian McEwan, Paul Auster and Douglas Kennedy are well received).[37] An important subset of book sales is comic books (typically Franco-Belgian comics like The Adventures of Tintin and Ast•rix) which are published in a large hardback format; comic books represented 4% of total book sales in [38] 1997. French artists have made the country a leader in the graphic novel genre and France hosts the AngoulŠme International Comics Festival, Europe's preeminent comics festival. Like other areas of French culture, book culture is influenced, in part, by the state, in particular by the "Direction du livre et de la lecture" of the Ministry of Culture, which oversees the "Centre national du livre" (National Book Center). The French Ministry of Industry also plays a role in price control. Finally, the VAT for books and other cultural products in France is at the reduced rate of 5.5%, which is also that of food and other necessities (see here). Culture of France In terms of journalism in France, the regional press (see list of newspapers in France) has become more important than national dailies (such as Le Monde and Le Figaro) over the past century: in 1939, national dailies were 2/3 of the dailies market, while today they are less than 1/4.[39] The magazine market is currently dominated by TV listings magazines[40] followed by news magazines such as Le Nouvel Observateur, L'Express and Le Point. Architecture and housing Main article: French architecture Transportation Main article: Transport in France There are significant differences in lifestyles with respect to transportation between very urbanized regions such as Paris], and smaller towns and rural areas. In Paris, and to a lesser extent in other major cities, many households do not own an automobile and simply use efficient public transport. The clich‚ about the Parisien is rush hour in the M•tro subway. However, outside of such areas, ownership of one or more cars is standard, especially for households with children. The TGV high-speed rail network, train † grande vitesse is a fast rail transport which serves several areas of the country and is self-financing. There are plans to reach most parts of France and many other destinations in Europe in coming years. Rail services to major destinations are punctual and frequent.Wikipedia:Citation needed Holidays Main article: Public holidays in France Despite the principles of la‚cit• and the separation of church from state, public and school holidays in France generally follow the Roman Catholic religious calendar (including Easter, Christmas, Ascension Day, Pentecost, Assumption of Mary, All Saints Day, etc.). Labor Day and the National Holiday are the only business holidays determined by government statute; the other holidays are granted by convention collective (agreement between employers' and employees' unions) or by agreement of the employer. The five holiday periods of the public school year[41] are: „ „ „ „ „ the vacances de la Toussaint (All Saints Day) - one and a half weeks starting near the end of October. the vacances de No‡l (Christmas) - two weeks, ending after New Years. the vacances d'hiver (winter) - two weeks in February and March. the vacances de printemps (spring), formerly vacances de Pˆques (Easter) - two weeks in April and May. the vacances d'•t• (summer), or grandes vacances (literally: big holidays) - two months in July and August. On May 1, Labour Day (La F…te du Travail) the French give flowers of Lily of the Valley (Le Muguet) to one another. The National holiday (called Bastille Day in English) is on the 14 of July. Military parades, called D‚fil‚s du 14 juillet, are held, the largest on the Champs-•lys‚es avenue in Paris in front of the President of the Republic. On November 2, All Souls Day (La F…te des morts), the French traditionally bring chrysanthemums to the tombs of departed family members. On November 11, Remembrance Day (Le Jour de la Comm•moration or L' Armistice) is an official holiday. Christmas is generally celebrated in France on Christmas Eve by a traditional meal (typical dishes include oysters, boudin blanc and the b•che de Noˆl), by opening presents and by attending the midnight mass (even among Catholics who do not attend church at other times of the year). 16 Culture of France Candlemas (La Chandeleur) is celebrated with crŠpes. The popular saying is that if the cook can flip a crŠpe singlehandedly with a coin in the other hand, the family is assured of prosperity throughout the coming year. The Anglo-Saxon and American holiday Halloween has grown in popularity following its introduction in the mid-1990s by the trade associations. The growth seems to have stalled during the following decade. Conventions „ France is the home of the International System of Units (the metric system).[42] Some pre-metric units are still used, essentially the livre (a unit of weight equal to half a kilogram) and the quintal (a unit of weight equal to 100 kilograms). „ In mathematics, France uses the infix notation like most countries. For large numbers the long scale is used. Thus, „ „ „ „ the French use the word billion for the number 1,000,000,000,000, which in countries using short scale is called a trillion. However, there exists a French word, milliard, for the number 1,000,000,000, which in countries using the short scale is called a billion. Thus, despite the use of the long scale, one billion is called un milliard ("one milliard") in French, and not mille millions ("one thousand million"). It should also be noted that names of numbers above the milliard are rarely used. Thus, one trillion will most often be called mille milliards („one thousand milliard…) in French, and rarely un billion. In the French numeral notation, the comma (,) is the decimal separator, whereas a space is used between each group of three digits (fifteen million five hundred thousand and thirty-two should be written as 15 500 032). In finance, the currency symbol is used as a decimal separator or put after the number. For example, ƒ25,048.05 is written either 25 048ƒ05 or 25 048,05 ƒ (always with an extra space between the figure and the currency symbol). In computing, a bit is called a bit yet a byte is called an octet[43] (from the Latin root octo, meaning "8"). SI prefixes are used. 24-hour clock time is used, with h being the separator between hours and minutes (for example 2:30‘pm is 14h30). The all-numeric form for dates is in the order day-month-year, using a slash as the separator (example: 31/12/1992 or 31/12/92). References „ Bernstein, Richard. Fragile Glory: A Portrait of France and the French. Plume, 1991. „ Carroll, Raymonde. Carol Volk, translator. Cultural Misunderstandings: The French-American Experience. University of Chicago Press, 1990. „ Darnton, Robert. The Great Cat Massacre and Other Episodes in French Cultural History. Vintage, 1984. ISBN 0-394-72927-7 „ Dauncey, Hugh, ed. French Popular Culture: An Introduction. New York: Oxford University Press (Arnold Publishers), 2003. „ DeJean, Joan. The Essence of Style: How The French INvented High Fashion, Fine Food, Chic Caf•s, Style, Sophistication, and Glamour. New York: Free Press, 2005. ISBN 978-0-7432-6413-6 „ Forbes, Jill and Michael Kelly, eds. French Cultural Studies: An Introduction. Clarendon Press, 1996. ISBN 0-19-871501-3 „ Girod, Andr‚. " French-American class: It's a long way to France" Redleadbooks <www.usa-decouverte.com> „ Gopnik, Adam. Paris to the Moon. Random House, 2001. „ Hall, Edward Twitchell and Mildred Reed Hall. Understanding Cultural Differences: Germans, French and Americans. Intercultural Press, 1990. „ Howarth, David and Georgios Varouzakis. Contemporary France: An Introduction to French Politics and Society. New York: Oxford University Press (Arnold Publishers), 2003. ISBN 0-340-74187-2 17 Culture of France „ Kelly, Michael. French Culture and Society: The Essentials. New York: Oxford University Press (Arnold Publishers), 2001. (A Reference Guide) „ Kidd, William and Si‰n Reynolds, eds. Contemporary French Cultural Studies. Arnold Publishers, 2000. ISBN 0-340-74050-7 „ Marmer, Nancy, "Out of Paris: Decentralizing French Art," Art in America, September 1986, pp.‘124•137, 155-157. „ Nadeau, Jean-Beno‹t and Julie Barlow. Sixty Million Frenchmen Can€t Be Wrong: Why We Love France But Not The French. Sourcebooks Trade, 2003. ISBN 1-4022-0045-5 „ Robb, Graham. The Discovery of France: A Historical Geography, from the Revolution to the First World War. New York: Norton, 2007. ISBN 978-0-393-05973-1 „ (French) Wylie, Laurence and Jean-Fran…ois Bri€re. Les Fran€ais. 3rd edition. Prentice Hall, 2001. „ Zedlin, Theodore and Philippe Turner, eds. The French. Kodansha International, 1996. Notes [1] http:/ / en. wikipedia. org/ w/ index. php?title=Template:Culture_of_France& action=edit [2] Jary, D. and J. Jary. 1991. The HarperCollins Dictionary of Sociology, page 101. [3] Hoult, T. F, ed. 1969. Dictionary of Modern Sociology, p. 93. [4] see, for example, Jonathan Fenby: On the Brink; the Trouble with France Warner Books London, 1943 [5] A†cha Sa†d Ben Mohamed (1876 - 1930) was born in Kabylie, G•n•alogie Magazine, N‰ 233, p. 30/36 [6] Le Point, February 8, 2007 [7] Article 75-1: (a new article): "Les langues r‚gionales appartiennent au patrimoine de la France" ("Regional languages belong to the patrimony of France"). See Loi constitutionnelle du 23 juillet 2008. [8] Fran’a nu mai e o ’ar“ catolic“ (http:/ / www. cotidianul. ro/ index. php?id=8749& art=22782& cHash=597202ac5o) (France is no longer a Catholic country), Cotidianul, 2007-01-11; "France 'no longer a Catholic country'", [[Daily Telegraph (http:/ / www. telegraph. co. uk/ news/ main. jhtml?xml=/ news/ 2007/ 01/ 10/ wfra10. xml)], 10 January 2007] [9] Religion Important for Americans, Italians (http:/ / www. angus-reid. com/ polls/ index. cfm/ fuseaction/ viewItem/ itemID/ 14255), Angus Reid Global Monitor, December 16, 2008 [10] Kidd and Reynolds, 104-5. [11] Kidd and Reynolds, for example, give a figure of 4 million Muslims, or 6.9%, based on sources dated 1993, 1994, 1999. (102). See Islam in France for more on recent estimates. [12] Kidd and Reynolds, 30-31. [13] Embassy of France in the US - The PACS - A civil solidarity pact (http:/ / www. ambafrance-us. org/ atoz/ pacs. asp) [14] Gay News From 365Gay.com (http:/ / www. 365gay. com/ Newscon06/ 12/ 121406france. htm) [15] Kelley, "Family", 100. [16] Ibid. [17] http:/ / www. insee. fr/ en/ ffc/ chifcle_fiche. asp?ref_id=NATTEF02313& tab_id=31 [18] Kelley, 246-7. [19] TIMSS 1995 Highlights of Results for the Middle School Years (http:/ / timss. bc. edu/ timss1995i/ HiLightB. html). France has not participated in later TIMSS studies. (http:/ / nces. ed. gov/ timss/ countries. asp) [20] fr:section syndicale d'entreprise December 27, 1968 law [21] fr:SMIG [22] http:/ / www. legifrance. gouv. fr/ texteconsolide/ ADEAN. htm [23] Decree nŽ2006-1386 over 15th November, 2006 (http:/ / www. legifrance. gouv. fr/ texteconsolide/ SQHYN. htm) taken as application of article L3511-7 (http:/ / www. legifrance. gouv. fr/ WAspad/ UnArticleDeCode?commun=& code=CSANPUNL. rcv& art=L3511-7) of the Public Health Code, banning smoking in public places. [24] http:/ / www. cedro-uva. org/ lib/ boekhout. france. html [25] Kelly, 101. DeJean, chapters 2-4. [26] Kelly, 101. [27] Dauncey, 195. [28] Le march• des aliments pour chiens et chats en Belgique. Mission Economique de Bruxelles, 2006. Read this document (in French) PDF (http:/ / www. ubifrance. fr/ download/ download. asp?cleautonomy=3204091) [29] December 28, 1895. (http:/ / www. universalis. fr/ encyclopedie/ presentation-du-cinematographe-lumiere/ ) [30] Cahiers du cin•ma, nŽhors-s‚rie, Paris, April 2000, p. 32 (cf. also Histoire des communications, 2011, p. 10. (http:/ / academiecine. tv/ files/ 8113/ 7674/ 5261/ Histoire_communications. pdf)). [31] 20 questions about studying in France |url=http:/ / old. campusfrance. org/ en/ a-etudier/ faq. htm 18 Culture of France [32] [33] [34] [35] [36] Theodore Zedlin, quoted in Kidd and Reynolds, 266 Kidd and Reynolds, 261. Kidd and Reynolds, 266. Kidd and Reynolds, 258 and 264. Kidd and Reynolds, 265. [37] Donald Morrison, "The Death of French Culture", Time, Wednesday Nov. 21, 2007. {http:/ / www. time. com/ time/ magazine/ article/ 0,9171,1686532,00. html} [38] Kidd and Reynolds, 264. [39] Kidd and Reynolds, 232. [40] Kidd and Reynolds, 236 [41] French schoolyear calendar {fr} (http:/ / www. education. gouv. fr/ pid184/ le-calendrier-scolaire. html) [42] International System of Units (SI) (http:/ / www. nist. gov/ physlab/ div842/ fcdc/ si-units. cfm) - Physics Laboratory [43] English translation of "Octet" (http:/ / dictionary. reverso. net/ french-english/ octet) on Reverso (http:/ / dictionary. reverso. net/ ) - External links „ Frenchculture.org (http://www.frenchculture.org/) „ Frenchcultureguide.com (http://www.frenchcultureguide.com/) - French culture news website „ France in Brief / France From A to Z (http://info-france-usa.org/spip.php?rubrique160) - Embassy of France in the US „ National Institute for Statistics and Economic Studies (http://www.insee.fr/en/home/home_page.asp) (INSEE) „ Morrison, Don. " The Death of French Culture (http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/ 0,9171,1686532,00.html?xid=site-cnn-partner)," TIME „ Chardin's paintings are just an example of the importance of the French culture in the history of art (http://www. non-solo-arte.com/chardin-paintings.html) „ French Painters who contributed to the Rococo and Neoclassical period are Boucher, Bouguereau and Jean-L‚ome G‚rŒme famous forgotten artists (http://www.non-solo-arte.com/famous-forgotten-artists.html) „ The French Culture in Lyon (http://lyoncityblog.fr/) 19 Brittany 20 Brittany This article is about the cultural region in the north-west of France. For the current French administrative region, see Brittany (administrative region). For other uses, see Brittany (disambiguation). Brittany Bretagne / Breizh / Berta€yn Historical province Flag Coat of arms Motto: None (de jure) Historical: Kentoc'h mervel eget bezaŠ saotret Rather death than dishonour Anthem: None (de jure) De facto "Bro Gozh ma Zado‹" Old Land of My Fathers Country ‘France Largest settlements Area ‚€‚Total 34,023‘km2 (13,136‘sq‘mi) Population (2010) ‚€‚Total 4,475,295 Demonym Bretons Time zone CET (UTC+1) ‚€‚Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) ISO 3166 code FR-E Brittany (French: Bretagne [b†‡.taˆ]‘( ); Breton: Breizh, pronounced [br‰js] or [br‰”]; Gallo: Bertaƒyn, pronounced [b‡†.ta‰ˆ]) is a cultural region in the north-west of France. Covering the western part of Armorica, as it was known during the period of Roman occupation, Brittany subsequently became an independent kingdom and then a duchy before being united to the Kingdom of France in 1532 as a province. Brittany has also been referred to as Less, Lesser or Little Britain (as opposed to Great Britain). It is bordered by the English Channel to the north, the Celtic Sea and the Atlantic Ocean to the west, and the Bay of Biscay to the south. Its land area is 34,023‘km• (13,136 sq mi). The historical province of Brittany is now split between five French departments: Finist€re in the west, CŒtes-d'Armor in the north, Ille-et-Vilaine in the north east, Loire-Atlantique in the south east and Morbihan in the Brittany south on the Bay of Biscay. Since reorganisation in 1956, the modern administrative region of Brittany comprises only four of the five Breton departments, or 80% of historical Brittany. The remaining area of old Brittany, the Loire-Atlantique department around Nantes, now forms part of the Pays de la Loire region. At the 2010 census, the population of historic Brittany was estimated to be 4,475,295. Of these, 71% lived in the region of Brittany, while 29% lived in the Loire-Atlantique department. In 2008, the largest metropolitan areas were Nantes (854,807 inhabitants), Rennes (654,478 inhabitants), and Brest (311,735 inhabitants). Brittany is the traditional homeland of the Breton people and is recognised by the Celtic League as one of the six Celtic nations, retaining a distinct cultural identity that reflects its history. A nationalist movement seeks greater autonomy within the French Republic. Etymology The word "Brittany", and its French, Breton, and Gallo equivalents "Bretagne", "Breizh" and "Berta€yn" derive from the Latin Britannia, which means "Britons' land". This word has been used by the Romans since the 1st century to name Great Britain, and more specifically the Roman province of Britain. This word derives from a Greek word, •–—˜˜™š›œ• (Prettanike) or ž–—˜˜™šŸ™› (Brettaniai), used by Pytheas, an explorer from Massalia who visited the British Islands around 320 BC. The Romans called Brittany Armorica, together with the region called nowadays Lower Normandy. This term probably came from a Gallic word, aremorica, which means "close to the sea". Another name, Letauia (in English "Litavis"), was used until the 12th century. It possibly means "wide and flat" or "to expand" and it gave the Welsh name for Brittany: Llydaw. After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, many Britons settled in the Western part of Armorica, and the region started to be called Brittania. However, the name Armorica persisted for some centuries, and it had not fully disappeared until the 5th century. Later, authors like Geoffrey of Monmouth used the terms Britannia minor and Britannia major to distinguish Brittany from Britain. Breton speaking people may pronounce the word "Breizh" in two different ways, according to their region of origin. Breton can be divided in two main dialects, the KLT (Kerne-Leon-Tregor), and the dialect of Vannes. KLT speakers pronounce it [br‰js], and would write it "Breiz", and the Vannetais speakers pronounce it [br‰”], and would write it "Breih". The official spelling is a compromise between both variants, with a z and a h together. Besides, in 1941, efforts to unify the dialects led to the creation of the so-called "breton zh", a standard which has never been widely accepted. On its side, Gallo language has never had a widely accepted writing system and several ones coexist. For instance, the name of the region in that language can be written "Berta€yn" in ELG script, or "Bert€gn" in MOGA, and a couple of other scripts also exist. 21 Brittany 22 History Main article: History of Brittany Prehistoric origins Brittany has been inhabited by humans since the Lower Paleolithic. The first settlers were Neanderthals. This population was scarce and very similar to the other Neanderthals found in the whole of Western Europe. Their only original feature was a distinct culture, called "Colombanian". One of the oldest hearths in the world has been found in Plouhinec, Finist€re. It is 450,000 years old. The homo sapiens settled in Brittany around 35,000 BC. They replaced or absorbed the Neanderthals and developed local industries, similar to the Ch‰telperronian or to the Magdalenian. After the last glacial The Carnac stones. period, the warmer climate allowed the area to become heavily wooded. At that time, Brittany was populated by relatively large communities who started to change their lifestyles from a nomadic life of hunting and gathering, to become settled farmers. Agriculture was introduced during the 5th millennium BC by migrants who came from the South and the East. However, the Neolithic Revolution in Brittany did not happen because of a radical change of population, but by slow immigration and exchange of skills. Neolithic Brittany is characterised by an important megalithic production, and it is sometimes designated as the "core area" of megalithic culture.[1] The oldest monuments, cairns, were followed by princely tombs and stone rows. The Morbihan d•partement, on the southern coast, comprises a large share of these structures, including the Carnac stones and the Broken Menhir of Er Grah in Locmariaquer, the largest single stone erected by Neolithic man. Celtic era During the protohistorical period, Brittany was inhabited by five Celtic tribes: „ The Curiosolitae, who lived around the present town of Corseul. Their territory encompassed parts of CŒtes-d'Armor, Ille-et-Vilaine and Morbihan d•partements. „ The Namnetes, who lived in the current Loire-Atlantique d•partement (in today's administrative r•gion of Pays de la Loire), north of the Loire. They gave their name to the city of Nantes. The south bank of the river was occupied by an allied tribe, the Ambilatres, whose existence and territory remain unsure. The five Gallic tribes of Brittany. „ The Osismii, who lived in the western part of Brittany. Their territory comprised the Finist€re d•partement and the western extremity of CŒtes-d'Armor and Morbihan. „ The Redones (or Rhedones), who lived in the eastern part of the Ille-et-Vilaine d•partement. They gave their name to the city of Rennes (Rhoazon in Breton language, in the center of the d‚partement) and to the town of Redon (in the south of the d•partement, bordering the d•partement of Loire-Atlantique in the administrative r•gion of Pays de la Loire, where its suburb town of Saint-Nicolas-de-Redon is located; however the city of Redon was founded around 832 CE under the initial name of Riedones, long after the Redones people were assimilated to Bretons ; the cultural link between Riedones and the former Redones people is highly probable but difficult to recover and the name of Riedones may have been written from a local usage preserving the name of the former people in the vernacular oral language from a reading of an ancient Greek othography). Brittany 23 „ The Veneti, who lived in the present Morbihan d•partement and gave their name to the city of Vannes. Despite confusion by the classical scholar Strabo, they were unrelated to the Adriatic Veneti. Those people had strong economic ties to the Insular Celts, especially for the tin trade. Several tribes also belonged to an "Armorican confederation" which, according to Julius Caesar, gathered the Curiosolitae, the Redones, the Caletes, the Osismii, the Lemovices, the Unelli and the Ambibarii. Gallo-Roman era The region became part of the Roman Republic in 51 BC. It was included in the province of Gallia Lugdunensis in 13 BC. Gallic towns and villages were redeveloped according to the Roman standards, and several cities were created. These cities are Condate (Rennes), Vorgium (Carhaix), Dariotirum (Vannes) and Condevincum (Nantes). Together with Fanum Martis (Corseul), they were the capitals of the local civitates. They all had a grid plan and a forum, and sometimes a temple, a basilica, thermae or an aqueduct, like Carhaix. The Romans also built three major roads through the region. However, most of the population remained rural. The free peasants lived in small huts, whereas the landowners and their employees lived in proper villae rusticae. The Gallic deities continued to be worshiped, and were often assimilated to the Roman gods. Only a small number of statues depicting Roman gods were found in Brittany, and most of the time they combine Celtic elements. The temple of Mars in Corseul. During the 3rd century, the region was attacked several times by Franks, Alamanni and pirates. At the same time, the local economy collapsed and many rural exploitations were abandoned. To face the invasions, many towns and cities were fortified, like Nantes, Rennes and Vannes. Immigration of Britons At the end of the 5th century, the Britons began to emigrate to Armorica. The history behind such an establishment is unclear, but medieval Breton and Welsh sources connect it to a figure known as Conan Meriadoc. Welsh literary sources assert that Conan came to Armorica with the Roman usurper Magnus Maximus, who took his British troops to Gaul to enforce his claims and settled them in Armorica. Regardless of the truth of this story, Brythonic (British Celtic) settlement probably increased during the Anglo-Saxon invasion of Britain in the 5th century. Scholars such as L‚on Fleuriot have suggested a two-wave model of migration from Britain which saw the emergence of an independent Breton people and established the dominance of the Brythonic Breton language in Armorica.[2] Over time the Armorican British colony expanded, forming a group of petty kingdoms which were later unified in the 840s under Nominoe in resistance to Frankish control.[3] Among the immigrant Britons, there were some clergymen who helped the evangelisation of the region, which was still pagan, particularly in rural areas. Brittany 24 Middle Ages At the beginning of the medieval era, Brittany was divided between three kingdoms, Domnonea, Cornouaille and Broˆrec. These realms eventually merged into a single state during the 9th century. The unification of Brittany was carried out by Nominoe, king between 845 and 851 and considered as the Breton pater patriae. His son Erispoe secured the independence of the new kingdom of Brittany and won the Battle of Jengland against Charles the Bald. The Bretons won another war in 867, and the kingdom reached then its maximum extent: it received parts of Normandy, Maine and Anjou and the Channel Islands. A 1922 nationalist engraving Brittany was heavily attacked by the Vikings at the beginning of the 10th century. The of Nominoe, first duke of kingdom lost its eastern territories, including Normandy and Anjou, and the county of Brittany. Nantes was given to Fulk I of Anjou in 909. However, Nantes was seized by the Vikings in 914, and was eventually liberated by Alan II of Brittany in 937. Alan II totally expelled the Vikings from Brittany and recreated a strong Breton state. He paid homage to Louis IV of France and thus Brittany ceased to be a kingdom and became a duchy. Several Breton lords helped William the Conqueror to invade England and received large estates there. Some of these lords were powerful rivals. Medieval Brittany was far from being a united nation. The French king maintained envoys in Brittany, alliances contracted by local lords often overlapped and there was no specific Breton consciousness. For example, Brittany replaced Latin with French as its official language in the 13th century, 300 years before France did so Tournament of Chivalry between a Breton and a itself, and the Breton language never had any formal status. The Bourbon knight. Miniature by Barth‚lemy foreign policy of the duchy changed many times; the dukes were d'Eyck, from King Ren‚'s Tournament Book. usually independent but they often contracted alliances with England or France. Their support for each nation became very important during the 14th century, because the English kings then started to claim the French throne. The Breton War of Succession, a local episode of the Hundred Years War, saw the House of Blois, backed by the French, fighting with the House of Montfort, backed by the English. The Montforts won in 1364 and enjoyed a period of total independence until the end of the Hundred Years War, because France was weakened and stopped sending royal envoys to the Court of Brittany. However, Brittany lost the Mad War against France in 1488, mostly because of its internal divisions. Indeed, some Breton lords were fighting on the French side. Brittany 25 Union with France and modern period Main article: Union of Brittany and France After the Mad War, the duke Francis II could not marry his daughter Anne without the King of France's consent. Nonetheless, she married the Holy Roman Emperor in 1490, but this led to a severe crisis with France. Charles VIII of France besieged Rennes and had the marriage cancelled. He eventually married Anne of Brittany. After he died childless, the duchess had to marry his heir and cousin Louis XII. Anne unsuccessfully tried to preserve Breton independence, but she died in 1514 and the union between the two countries was formally carried out by Francis I in 1532. He granted several privileges to Brittany, such as exemption from the gabelle, a tax on salt which was very unpopular in France.[4] From the 15th to the 18th century, Brittany reached an economic golden age. The region was located on the seaways between Spain, England and the Anne of Brittany. Netherlands and it greatly benefited from the creation of a French colonial empire. Local seaports like Brest and Saint-Brieuc quickly expanded, and Lorient, first spelled "L'Orient", was founded in the 17th century. Saint-Malo was then known for its corsairs, Brest was a major base for the French Navy and Nantes flourished with the Atlantic slave trade. On its side, the inland provided hemp ropes and canvas and linen sheets. However, Colbertism, which encouraged the creation of many factories, did not favour the Breton industry because most of the royal factories were opened in other provinces. Moreover, several conflicts between France and England led the latter to restrain its trade, and the Breton economy went into recession during the 18th century. Two significant revolts occurred in the 17th and 18th centuries: the Revolt of the papier timbr‚ (1675) and the Pontcallec Conspiracy (1719). Both arose from attempts to resist centralisation and assert Breton constitutional [5] exceptions to tax. Since 1789 The mutineers of Fouesnant arrested by the National Guard of Quimper in 1792. The Duchy was legally abolished during the French Revolution, in 1789, and divided into five departments. Brittany also lost all its privileges. Three years later, the area became a centre of royalist and Catholic resistance to the Revolution during the Chouannerie. During the 19th century, Brittany remained in economic recession, and many Bretons emigrated to other French regions, particularly to Paris. This trend remained strong until the beginning of the 20th century. Nonetheless, the region was also modernising, with new roads and railways being built, and some places being industrialised. Nantes specialised in shipbuilding and food processing (sugar, exotic fruits and vegetables, fish...), Foug€res in glass and shoe production, and metallurgy was practised in small towns such as Ch‰teaubriant and Lochrist, known for its labour movements. The region remained deeply Catholic, and during the Second Empire, the conservative values were strongly reasserted. When the Republic was re-established in 1871, there were rumours that Breton troops were mistrusted and mistreated at Camp Conlie during the Franco-Prussian War because of fears that they were a threat to the Republic. Brittany 26 During the 19th century, the Breton language started to decline precipitously, mainly because of the Francization policy conducted under the Third Republic. On one hand, children were not allowed to speak Breton at school, and were punished by teachers if they did. Famously, signs in schools read: "It is forbidden to speak Breton and to spit on the floor" ("Il est interdit de parler breton et de cracher par terre"). On the other hand, Breton (like Latin) was considered as a language that kept Brittany in the hands of the Roman Catholic church and learning French was a way, especially for women, to free A Royal Air Force attack on Saint-Malo in 1942. themselves from the influence of the church. As a result, a generation of native Breton speakers were made to feel ashamed of their language and avoided speaking it or teaching it to their children. These factors contributed to the decline of Breton. The Amoco Cadiz oil spill in 1978 deeply marked Breton people. At the same time, the Celtic Revival led to the foundation of the Breton Regionalist Union (URB) and later to independence movements linked to Irish, Welsh and Scottish independence parties in the UK and to pan-Celticism. However, the audience of these movements remained very low and their ideas did not reach a large public until the 20th century. The Seiz Breur movement, created in 1923, permitted a Breton artistic revival[6] but its ties with Nazism and the collaborationism of the Breton National Party during World War II weakened Breton nationalism in the post-war period. Brittany lost 240,000 men during the First World War. The Second World War was also catastrophic for the region. It was invaded by Nazi Germany in 1940 and freed after Operation Cobra in August 1944. However, the areas around Saint-Nazaire and Lorient only surrendered the 10 and 11 May 1945, several days after the German capitulation. The two towns had been totally destroyed by air raids, like Brest and Saint-Malo, and other towns, such as Nantes and Rennes, had also suffered. In 1956, Brittany was legally reconstituted as the Region of Brittany, although the region excluded the ducal capital of Nantes and the surrounding area. Nevertheless Brittany retained its cultural distinctiveness, and a new cultural revival emerged during the 1960s and 1970s. Bilingual schools were opened, singers started to write songs in Breton, and ecological catastrophes such as the Amoco Cadiz oil spill or the Erika oil spill and water pollution because of intensive pig farming favoured new movements to protect the natural heritage. Government and politics See also: Politics of France Traditional subdivisions Brittany as a political entity disappeared in 1790, when it was divided into five d‚partements. The Breton d‚partements more or less correspond to the nine Catholic dioceses that appeared at the beginning of the Middle Ages. They were often called "pays" or "bro" ("country" in French and Breton) and they also served as fiscal and military districts. Brittany is also divided between Lower Brittany ("Basse Bretagne" and "Breizh Izel"), corresponding to the western half, where Breton is traditionally spoken, and Upper Brittany ("Haute Bretagne" and "Breizh Uhel"), corresponding to the eastern half, where Gallo is traditionally spoken. The historical Breton dioceses were: „ Upper Brittany: „ The Pays nantais, around Nantes, corresponding to the Loire-Atlantique d•partement. Brittany 27 „ The Pays rennais, around Rennes, forming part of the Ille-et-Vilaine d•partement. „ The Pays de Dol, around Dol-de-Bretagne, corresponding to the northern part of the Ille-et-Vilaine d•partement. „ The Pays de Saint-Brieuc, around Saint-Brieuc, forming part of the CŒtes-d'Armor d•partement. „ The Pays de Saint-Malo, around Saint-Malo, divided between Ille-et-Vilaine, CŒtes-d'Armor and Morbihan. „ Lower Brittany: „ „ „ „ The Pays vannetais, around Vannes, corresponding to the Morbihan d•partement. The Cornouaille, around Quimper, divided between Finist€re and CŒtes-d'Armor. The L•on, around Saint-Pol-de-L‚on, corresponding to the northern part of the Finist€re d•partement. The Tr•gor, around Tr‚guier, forming part of the CŒtes-d'Armor d•partement. During the French Revolution, four dioceses were suppressed and the five remaining ones were modified to have the same administrative borders as the d‚partements. Capital cities Brittany has several historical capital cities. When it was an independent duchy, the Estates of Brittany, which can be compared to a parliament, met in various towns: Dinan, Ploˆrmel, Redon, Rennes, Vitr‚, Gu‚rande, and, most of all, Nantes, where they met 17 times, and Vannes, 19 times. The Court and the government were also very mobile, and each dynasty favoured its own castles and estates. The dukes mostly lived in Nantes, Vannes, Redon, Rennes, Foug€res, Dol-de-Bretagne, Dinan and Gu‚rande. It is interesting to notice that all these towns except Vannes are located in Upper Brittany, thus not in the Breton speaking area. The ch‰teau des ducs de Bretagne in Nantes, permanent residence of the last dukes. Among all these towns, only Nantes, Rennes and Vannes, which were the biggest ones, could really pretend to the capital status. The dukes were crowned in Rennes and they had a large castle there; it was however destroyed during the 15th century. Vannes, on its side, was the seat of the Chamber of Accounts and of the Parliament until the union with France. The Parliament was then transferred to Rennes, and the Chamber of Accounts to Nantes. Nantes, nicknamed "the city of the Dukes of Brittany", was also the permanent residence of the last dukes. The Ch‰teau des ducs de Bretagne still stands in the city centre. Nowadays, Rennes is the only official capital of the region of Brittany. It is also the seat of an ecclesiastical province encompassing Brittany and the Pays de la Loire region. Brittany 28 Present subdivisions See also: Administrative divisions of France, Brittany (administrative region) and Loire-Atlantique During the French Revolution, Brittany was divided into five d•partements, each made up of three or four arrondissements. The arrondissements are further divided in cantons, which are themselves made up of one or several communes. The communes and the d‚partements have a local council elected by their citizens, but arrondissements and cantons are not run by elected officials. The cantons serve as an electoral district for the election of the d‚partement councils and arrondissements are run by a subprefect appointed by the French president. The president also appoints a prefect in each d‚partement. Because the d‚partements are small and numerous, the French government tried to create wider regions during the 20th century. For The region Brittany comprises four historical the Breton nationalists, it was an occasion to recreate Brittany as a Breton d•partements. Loire-Atlantique, in light political and administrative entity, but the new region had to be blue, is part of the Pays de la Loire region. economically efficient. Nantes and its d•partement, Loire-Atlantique, raised concerns because they were off-centered, more integrated with the Loire Valley than with the Breton peninsula. The French government and local politicians also feared that Nantes, because of its population and its former Breton capital status, would have maintained a harmful competition with Rennes to get the regional institutions and investments. Several drafts for French regions had been proposed since the 1920s, and the definitive regions were drawn in 1956. The new Brittany had four d‚partements, and Loire-Atlantique formed the Pays de la Loire region together with parts of Anjou, Maine and Poitou. In 1972, the regions received their present competencies, with an elected regional council. Since then, the region of Brittany has had its own council and administrative bodies. The reunification question When the region of Brittany was created, several local politicians opposed the exclusion of Loire-Atlantique, and the question still remains. The obstacles to reunification are the same as in 1956: having Nantes in Brittany could harm the position of Rennes and create an economic imbalance between Lower and Upper Brittany. Moreover, the Pays de la Loire region could not exist without Loire-Atlantique, because it would lose its political and economic capital. Without Loire-Atlantique, the other d‚partements would not form an efficient region any more, and would have to integrate neighbouring regions such as the Centre region and Poitou-Charentes. This Loire-Atlantique road sign reads "welcome to historical Brittany". However, several institutions have backed the reunification, such as the regional council of Brittany since 2008 and the Loire-Atlantique council since 2001. Some politicians like Jean-Marc Ayrault, the French prime minister and former mayor of Nantes, favour instead the creation of a "Greater West region", which would encompass Brittany and the Pays de la Loire region. Polls show that 58% of the Bretons and 62% of the inhabitants in Loire-Atlantique favour the reunification. Brittany 29 Political tendencies Main article: Politics of Brittany Until the end of the 20th century, Brittany had been characterised by a strong Catholic and conservative influence. However, some areas such as the industrial region around Saint-Nazaire and Lorient and the surroundings of Tr‚guier are traditional Socialist and Communist strongholds. Left-wing parties, mainly the Socialist party and the Greens, have become more and more powerful after the 1970s and they have formed a majority in the Regional Council of Brittany since 2004. The Loire-Atlantique and Ille-et-Vilaine councils have also been held by the left since 2004. The Socialist party has held the CŒtes-d'Armor council since 1976, and the Finist€re council since 1998. On its side, Morbihan remains a right-wing stronghold. The local parties have a very small audience, except the Union D‚mocratique Bretonne which has seats at the Regional Council and in other local assemblies. It advocates more autonomy for the region and its positions are very close to the Socialist party's. It also has a strong ecological orientation. The audience of far-right parties is lower in Brittany than in the rest of France. Geography and natural history Brittany is the largest French peninsula. It is around 34,030‘km2 (13,140‘sq‘mi) and stretches towards the northwest and the Atlantic Ocean. It is bordered to the north by the English Channel, to the south by the Bay of Biscay and the waters located between the western coast and Ushant island form the Iroise Sea. The Breton coast is very indented, with many cliffs, rias and capes. The Gulf of Morbihan is a vast natural harbour with some forty islands that is almost a closed sea. In total, around 800 islands lie off the mainland; the largest being Belle le, in the south. Brittany has over 2,860‘km (1,780‘mi) of coastline; it represents a third of the total French coastline. The Pink Granite Coast around Tr‚gastel. The region is generally hilly because it corresponds to the western end of the Armorican massif, a very old range that also extends in Normandy and the Pays de la Loire region. Because of this continuity, the Breton border with the rest of France is not marked by any strong geographical landmark, apart from the river Couesnon, which separates Brittany from Normandy. The Armorican massif reaches its maximal elevation outside of Brittany, in neighbouring Mayenne, at 417 m, and slopes towards the west before straightening on its western extremity, with the Montagnes Noires and the Monts d'Arr‚e. The highest hill in Brittany is the Roc'h Ruz in the Monts d'Arr‚e, at 385‘m (1,263‘ft). It is closely followed by several neighbouring hills culminating at around 384 m above sea level. A bog around the Monts d'Arr‚e. Coastal areas are usually named Armor or Arvor ("by the sea" in Breton), and the inland is called Argoat ("by the forest"). The best soils were primitively covered by large forests which had been progressively replaced by bocage during the Middle Ages. The Breton bocage, with its small fields enclosed by thick hedgerows, has almost disappeared since the 1960s to fit the modern agricultural needs and methods, particularly mechanisation. Several forests still exist, such as the Paimpont forest, sometimes said to be the Arthurian Broc‚liande. The poor and rocky areas are covered by large heathland and moorlands, and Brittany has several marshes, like the Bri€re, included in a Regional natural park. Another regional park encompasses the Monts d'Arr‚e and the Iroise seacoast. Brittany 30 The Iroise Sea is also a UNESCO biosphere reserve. Geology The Breton peninsula appeared during the Cadomian Orogeny, which formed its northern coastline, between Guingamp and Foug€res. The southern part emerged during the Hercynian orogeny. At the same time, an intense volcanic activity left large quantities of granite. Between the Cadomian and Hercynian periods, the region was submerged several times and the sea left fossils and sedimentary rocks, mostly schist and sandstone. Because of the absence of limestone, soils in Brittany are usually acid. The Armorican massif straightened and flattened several times during the formation of the Pyrenees and the Alps. Changes in sea levels and climate led to a strong erosion and to the formation of more sedimentary rocks. Metamorphism is responsible for the distinctive local blue schist and for the rich subsoil of the Groix island, which comprises glaucophane and epidote. The Pointe du Raz, one of the westernmost extents of both Brittany and France. During the Quaternary glaciations, Brittany was covered by loess and rivers started to fill the valleys with alluvial deposits. The valleys themselves were a result of a strong tectonic activity between the African and the Eurasian plate. The present Breton landscape did not acquired its final shape before one million years ago. The Breton subsoil is characterised by a huge amount of fractures that form a large aquifer containing several millions square meters of water. Climate Brittany lies within the north temperate zone. It has a changeable, maritime climate, similar to Cornwall. Rainfall occurs regularly but sunny, cloudless days are also common. In the summer months, temperatures in the region can reach 30‘ŽC (86‘ŽF), yet the climate remains comfortable, especially when compared to the French regions located south of the Loire. The temperature difference between summer and winter is about fifteen degrees, but it varies depending on the proximity of the sea. The weather is generally milder on the seacoast than in the inland but rainfall occurs with the same intensity on both. The Monts d'Arr‚e, despite their low elevation, have much more rainfall than the rest of the region. The south coast, between Lorient and Pornic, enjoys more than 2,000 hours of sunshine per year.[7] Flora and fauna Brittany's wildlife is typical of France with several distinctions. On one hand, the region, due to its long coastline, has a rich oceanic fauna, and some birds cannot be seen in other French regions. On the other hand, the species found in the inland are usually common for France, and because Brittany is a peninsula, the number of species is lower in its western extremity than in the eastern part. A variety of seabirds can be seen close to the seaside, which is home to colonies of cormorants, gulls, razorbills, Northern Gannets, Common Murres and Atlantic puffins. Most of these birds breed on isolated islands and rocks and thus are hard to observe. The inland is home to common European species: pheasants, swallows, woodcocks, Common Swifts, partridges... An ocean sunfish exhibiting its characteristic horizontal basking behaviour several miles off Penmarch. Brittany 31 A Breton horse. Like Cornwall, Wales and Ireland, the waters of Brittany attract marine animals including basking sharks, grey seals, leatherback turtles, dolphins, porpoises, jellyfish, crabs and lobsters. Bass is common along the coast, small-spotted catsharks live on the continental shelf, rattails and anglerfish populate the deep waters. River fish of note include trouts, Atlantic salmons, pikes, shades and lampreys. The Breton rivers are also home to beavers and otters and to some invasive American species, such as the coypu which destroys the ecosystem and accelerated the extinction of the European mink. Among the invertebrates, Brittany is notably home to the escargot de Quimper, the freshwater pearl mussel and the white-clawed crayfish. The larger Breton mammals died out during the modern period, including the wolf. Today, mammals of note include roedeers, wild boars, foxes, hares and several species of bat. Brittany is widely known for the Breton horse, a local breed of draft horse, and for the Brittany gun dog. The region also has its own breeds of cattle, some of which are on the brink of extinction: the Bretonne pie noir, the Froment du L‚on, the Armorican and the Nantaise. The Breton forests, dunes, moorlands and marshes are home to several iconic plants, such as endemic cistus, aster and linaria varieties, the horseshoe vetch and the lotus maritimus. Education See also: Education in France Brittany has the same education system as the rest of France. As in other French regions, formal education before the 19th century was the preserve of the elite. Before 1460, Brittany did not have a university, and Breton students had to go to Angers, Poitiers or Caen. The University of Nantes was founded under the duke Francis II, who wanted to affirm the Breton independence from France. All the traditional disciplines were taught there: arts, theology, law and medicine. During the 17th century, it had around 1,500 students. It declined during the 18th century, mostly because Nantes was flourishing with the Atlantic slave trade and paid no attention to its cultural institutions. A mayor eventually asked the University to be relocated to Rennes, more devoted to culture and science, and the [8] faculties progressively moved there after 1735. The transfer was interrupted by the French Revolution, and all the French universities were dissolved in 1793. A battalion of the Saint-Cyr-Coˆtquidan military academy. Napoleon reorganised the French education system in 1808. He created new universities and invented two secondary education institutions: the "coll€ges" and the "lyc‚es" which were opened in numerous towns to educate boys and form a new elite. A new University of Rennes was progressively recreated during the 19th century. In the meantime, several laws were promoted to open schools, notably for girls. In 1882, Jules Ferry succeeded in passing a law which made primary education in France free, non-clerical (la†que) and mandatory. Thus, free schools were opened in almost every villages of Brittany. Jules Ferry also promoted education policies establishing French language as the language of the Republic, and mandatory education was a mean to eradicate regional languages and dialects. In Brittany, it was forbidden for the pupils to speak Breton or Gallo, and the two were strongly depreciated. Brittany 32 Humiliating practices aimed at stamping out the Breton language and culture prevailed in state schools until the late 1960s.[9] In response, the Diwan schools were founded in 1977 to teach Breton by immersion. They have taught a few thousand young people from elementary school to high school, and they have gained more and more fame owing to their high level of results in school exams.[10] Bilingual approach has also been implemented in some state schools after 1979, and some Catholic schools have did the same after 1990. Besides, Brittany, with the neighbouring Pays de la Loire region, remains a stronghold for Catholic private education with around 1,400 schools During the 20th century, tertiary education was developed with the creation of the •cole centrale de Nantes in 1919, the University of Nantes in 1961, the ESC Bretagne Brest in 1962, the University of Western Brittany in 1971 and the University of Southern Brittany in 1995. The Catholic University of the West, based in Angers, also opened classes in several Breton towns. In 1969, the University of Rennes was divided between the University of Rennes 1 and the University of Rennes 2 • Upper Brittany. After the Second World War, the Ecole Sp‚ciale Militaire de Saint-Cyr, the foremost French military academy, settled in Coˆtquidan. Economy Brittany, apart from some areas such as Lorient, Nantes and Saint-Nazaire, has never been heavily industrialised. Today, fishing and agriculture remain important activities. Brittany has more than 40,000 agricultural exploitations, mostly oriented towards cattle, pig and poultry breeding, and cereals and vegetables production. The number of exploitations tends to diminish, but as a result, they are merged into very large estates. Brittany is the first producer in France RMS Queen Mary 2, once the world's largest for vegetables (green beans, onions, artichokes, potatoes, tomatoes...). passenger ship, was built in Saint-Nazaire. Cereals are mostly grown for cattle feeding. Wine, especially muscadet, is made in a small region south of Nantes. Brittany is the first region in France for fishing. The activity employs around 9,000 people, and more than 60 firms work in fish and seafood processing. A fishing trawler from Le Guilvinec. Although relatively new, the Breton industry has been constantly growing since 1980. Food processing (meat, vegetables...) represents a third of the industrial jobs, but other activities are also important for the local economy. Shipbuilding, both commercial and military, is implanted in Saint-Nazaire (Chantiers de l'Atlantique), Lorient and Brest, Airbus has plants in Saint-Nazaire and Nantes and Peugeot has a large factory in Rennes. Brittany is the second French region for telecommunication and the fifth for electronics, two activities mainly developed in Rennes, Lannion and Brest. Tourism is particularly important for the seacoast and Brittany is one of the most visited regions in France. The unemployment rate in Brittany is lower than in other French regions and it is usually around 6 or 7% of the active population. Because of the global financial crisis started in 2007, unemployment has arisen to 8.7% in the Region Brittany and 8.4% in Loire-Atlantique in late 2012. However, these results remain under the French national rate (9.9% at the same period). Some activities, such as construction, industry, catering or transport, usually have difficulties to find employees. In 2009, Region Brittany's gross domestic product reached 82 billion euros. It was the seventh richest region in France and it produced 4.4% of the national GDP. The Breton GDP per capita was around 25,739 euros in 2009. It was lower than the French result, 29,897 euros, but higher than the European one, 23,500 euros. The GDP of the Loire-Atlantique d•partement is around 26 billion euros, and the GDP of the five historical Breton d‚partements Brittany would be at around 108 billion euros. Demographics See also: Demography of France In 2012, the population in Region Brittany was estimated to 3,195,317 and Loire-Atlantique had around 1,303,103 inhabitants, thus historical Brittany's population can be estimated at 4,552,918, the highest in its history. The population in Region Brittany had grown by 0.9% between 1999 and 2000, and the growth rate reached more than 1% in Ille-et-Vilaine and Morbihan. The region around Rennes and the south are the more attractive areas, whereas the population is declining in the centre and in the westernmost parts. While most of the metropolitan Rennes, the most populated city in Region areas are growing, the cities themselves tend to stagnate or regress, Brittany and the second in historical Brittany, such as for Brest, Lorient, Saint-Brieuc and Saint-Malo. In 2008, behind Nantes. Ille-et-Vilaine had 967,588 inhabitants, it was followed by Morbihan, 710,034 inhabitants, Finist€re 890,509 inhabitants, and CŒtes-d'Armor, with 581,570 inhabitants. The largest cities in Region Brittany were Rennes, with 206,655, Brest, 142,097, Quimper, 63,929, Lorient, 58,148, Vannes, 52,983, Saint-Malo, 48,211, and Saint-Brieuc, 45,879. All the other communes had under 20,000 inhabitants. Brittany is also characterised by a great number of small towns, such as Vitr‚, Concarneau, Morlaix or Auray. Loire-Atlantique has two major cities, Nantes, with 283,288 inhabitants and an urban area emcompassing 873,133, and Saint-Nazaire, with 67,031 inhabitants. Loire-Atlantique's population is more rapidly growing than Region Brittany's and it is the 12th most populated French d‚partement. Nevertheless, since the 1990s, Rennes has consistently ranked as one of France's fastest growing metropolitan areas. In 1851, Brittany had around 2,7 million inhabitants and the demographic growth stayed low until the second half of the 20th century, mainly because of an important emigration. Brittany had 3,2 million inhabitants in 1962 and the growth was mainly due to Loire-Atlantique and the steady growth of Nantes. Without the Loire-Atlantique's figures, the Breton population only numbered 2,4 millions in 1962, and 2,3 in 1851. After the 1960s, the whole region has had a strong demographic growth because of the decline of the traditional emigration to richer French regions. Instead, Brittany has become attractive, particularly for families, young retired persons and active people over 35 years old. Brittany do not have a strong share of foreign residents. Together with naturalised French people, they form approximately 2% of the total population. They mainly come from European countries such as the United Kingdom, Portugal and Spain, from former French colonies like Morocco, Algeria, Vietnam, CŒte d'Ivoire or Senegal, and from Turkey.[11] Brittany is the region of France that has the smallest proportion of immigrants. 33 Brittany 34 Regional identity Breton political parties do not have a wide support and their electoral success is small. However, Bretons have a strong cultural identity. According to a poll made in 2008, 50% of the inhabitants of the Region Brittany consider themselves as much Breton as French, 22.5% feel more Breton than French, and 15.4% more French than Breton. A minority, 1.5%, considers itself Breton but not French, while 9.3% do not consider to be Breton at all.[12] 51.9% of the poll respondents agreed that Brittany should have more political power, and 31.1% thought that it should stay the same. Only 4.6% favoured the independence, and 9.4% did not know what to think. Breton women wearing the Bigouden distinctive headdress, one of the symbols of Breton identity. A 2012 poll realised in the five d‚partements of historical Brittany showed that 48% of the respondents considered themselves to belong first to France, 37% to Brittany, and 10% to Europe. It also showed that Breton identity is stronger among people younger than 35, 53% of them considering themselves to belong first to Brittany, while 50% of the older respondents considered themselves to belong first to France. The Breton feeling is at its lowest among the respondents over 65: 58% consider themselves to belong first to France. European feeling is also stronger among older people, 21% of the respondents over 65 considering themselves to be European first. At last, Breton feeling is much stronger among left-wing people and employees than persons with high qualifications. Regional languages Main articles: Breton language and Gallo language French, the only official language of the French Republic, is spoken today by everybody in Brittany, and it is the mothertongue of almost every Breton. Nonetheless, French was not widely known before the 19th century, and two regional languages exist in Brittany: Breton and Gallo. They are separated by a language border that has constantly moved back since the Middle Ages. The actual border runs from Plouha on the English Channel to the Rhuys Peninsula on the Bay of Biscay. Because of their origins and practice, Breton and Gallo can be compared to Scottish Gaelic and Scots language in Scotland. Both have been recognised as "Langues de Bretagne" ("languages of Brittany") by the Regional Council of Brittany since 2004. Lower Brittany (in colours), where the Breton language is traditionally spoken and Upper Brittany (in shades of grey), where the Gallo language is traditionally spoken. The changing shades indicate the advance of Gallo and French, and retreat of Breton from 900 AD. Breton Main article: Breton language Brittany 35 Breton is a Celtic language derived from the historical Common Brittonic language, and is most closely related to Cornish and Welsh. Since the 13th century, long before the union of Brittany and France, the main administrative language of the Duchy of Brittany had been French, which had replaced Latin. Breton remained the language of the rural population, but since the Middle Ages the bourgeoisie, the nobility, and the higher clergy have been speaking French. Bilingual road signs can be seen in traditional Breton-speaking areas. Government policies in the 19th and 20th centuries made education compulsory and, at the same time, forbade the use of Breton in schools to push non-French speakers into adopting the French language. Nevertheless, until the 1960s Breton was spoken or understood by many of the inhabitants of western Brittany. During the 1970s, Breton schools were opened and the local authorities started to promote the language, which was on the brink of extinction because parents had stopped teaching it to their children. Having declined from more than one million speakers around 1950 to about 200,000 in the first decade of the 21st century, of whom 61% are more than 60 years old, Breton is classified as "severely endangered" by the UNESCO Atlas of the World's Languages in Danger. However, the number of children attending bilingual classes has risen [13][14] 33% between 2006 and 2012 to 14,709. The Breton language has several dialects which have no precise limits but rather form a continuum. Most of them are very similar to each other, with only some phonetic and lexical differences. The three main dialects spoken in the western end of Brittany, the 'Cornouillais, around Quimper, the L•onard, around Saint-Pol-de-L‚on, and the Tr•gorrois, around Tr‚guier, are grouped into the KLT group (Kerne-Leon-Treger), in opposition to the Vannetais, spoken around Vannes, which is the most differentiated Breton dialect. Gallo Main article: Gallo language Gallo is spoken on the eastern half of Brittany. It is one of the romance Langues d'o†l, but has some Celtic influences, particularly in its vocabulary. Unlike Breton, Gallo does not have a long promotion history and it is still often perceived as a poor rural dialect. Moreover, because of its similarities with Gallo, French imposed itself more easily as the main language in Upper Brittany than in Breton speaking areas. Gallo was felt as a wrong way of speaking French more than as a proper dialect or language. The Gallo transmission from parents to children is extremely low and efforts to standardise and publish books in Gallo did not revert the decline of the language and its lack of prestige. Gallo is also threatened by the Breton language revival, because Breton is gaining ground in territories that were not previously part of the main Breton-speaking area, and most of all because Breton appears as the national language of Brittany, thus leaving no place for Gallo. Signs in Gallo are very rare and the writing systems they use are unknown by most of the speakers. Gallo had never been written before the 20th century, and several writing systems were created. They are however rarely known by the population and signs in Gallo are often unreadable, even for fluent speakers. In Brittany 36 Loire-Atlantique, where Gallo is not promoted at all by the local authorities, many people do not even know the word "Gallo" and have no idea that it has writing systems and publications. The Gallo speaking community is estimated between 28,300 and 200,000 locutors. The language is taught on a non-compulsory basis in some schools, high-schools and universities, particularly in Ille-et-Vilaine. Religion Bretons are mainly Catholic and the Christianisation occurred during the Roman Gaul and Frank era. During the Briton emigration to Brittany, several Christian missionaries, mostly Welsh, came in the region and founded dioceses. They are known as the "Seven founder saints": „ Paol Aoreliann, at Saint-Pol-de-L‚on, „ Tudwal, at Tr‚guier, „ Brieg, at Saint-Brieuc, „ Malo¡, at Saint-Malo, „ Samsun of Dol, at Dol-de-Bretagne, Sculpted "calvaries" can be found in many villages in Lower Brittany. „ Padarn, at Vannes, „ Kaourintin, at Quimper. Other notable early evangelizers are Gildas and the Irish saint Columbanus. In total, Brittany numbers more than 300 "saints" (only a few recognised by the Catholic Church) and, since the 19th century at least, it has been known as one of the most devoutly Catholic regions in France, together with the neighbouring Pays de la Loire region. The proportion of students attending Catholic private schools is the highest in France. The patron saint of Brittany is Saint Anne, the Virgin's mother, but Ivo of Kermartin, a 13th-century priest, called Saint-Yves in French and Sant-Erwan in Breton, can also be considered as a patron saint. His feast, the 19 May, is Brittany's national day. Many distinctive traditions and customs have also been preserved in Brittany. Among them, the "Pardons" are one of the most traditional demonstrations of popular Catholicism. These penitential ceremonies occur in some villages in Lower Brittany on the feast day of the parish's saint. The penitents form a procession and they walk together to a shrine, a church or any sacred place. Some Pardons are reputed for their length, and they all finish by large meals and popular feasts. A chapel and a calvary in Locronan, Finist€re. Brittany There is a very old pilgrimage called the Tro Breizh (tour of Brittany), where the pilgrims walk around Brittany from the grave of one of the seven founder saints to another. Historically, the pilgrimage was made in one trip (a total distance of around 600‘km) for all seven saints. Nowadays, however, pilgrims complete the circuit over the course of several years. In 2002, the Tro Breizh included a special pilgrimage to Wales, symbolically making the reverse journey of the Welshmen Sant [15] Paol, Sant Brieg, and Sant Samzun. The most powerful folk figure is the Ankou or the "Reaper of Death". Sometimes a skeleton wrapped in a shroud with the Breton flat hat, sometimes described as a real human being (the last dead of the year, A sculpted Ankou in Ploudiry. devoted to bring the dead to Death), he makes his journeys by night carrying an upturned scythe which he throws before him to reap his harvest. Sometimes he is on foot but mostly he travels with a cart, the Karrig an Ankou, drawn by two oxen and a lean horse. Two servants dressed in the same shroud and hat as the Ankou pile the dead into the cart, and to hear it [16] creaking at night means you have little time left to live. As official religious statistics are forbidden in France, there are no official figures about religious practices in Brittany. However, successive polls show that the region tends to be more and more nonreligious. Catholic religion has started to decline after the Second World War, during the urbanisation of Brittany. A poll conducted in 2006 showed that Morbihan was the only d•partement to have a strong Catholic population, around 70% of its inhabitants belonging to that religion. Loire-Atlantique and CŒtes-d'Armor were among the least Catholic French d•partements, with only 50% of Catholics, while Ille-et-Vilaine and Finist€re were at around 65%. Other religions are almost non-existent, apart from Islam which gathers between 1 and 3% of the inhabitants in Ille-et-Vilaine and Loire-Atlantique. Culture Architecture Brittany is home to many megalithic monuments; the words menhir and dolmen come from the Breton language. The largest menhir alignments are the Carnac stones. Other major sites include the Barnenez cairn, the Locmariaquer megaliths, the Menhir de Champ-Dolent, the Mane Braz tumulus and the Gavrinis tomb. Monuments from the Roman period are rare, but include a large temple in Corseul and scarce ruins of villas and city walls in Rennes and Nantes. Brittany has a huge quantity of medieval buildings. They include Josselin Castle. numerous Romanesque and French Gothic churches, usually built in local sandstone and granit, castles and half-timbered houses visible in villages, towns and cities. Several Breton towns still have their medieval walls, such as Gu‚rande, Concarneau, Saint-Malo, Vannes, Foug€res and Dinan. Major churches include Saint-Pol-de-L‚on Cathedral, Tr‚guier Cathedral, Dol Cathedral, Nantes Cathedral and the Kreisker chapel. Most of the Breton castles were rebuilt between the 13th and the 15th century, such as the Ch‰teau de Suscinio, the Ch‰teau de Dinan, the Ch‰teau de Combourg, the Ch‰teau de Largoˆt, the Ch‰teau de Tonqu‚dec, the Josselin Castle and the Ch‰teau de Tr‚cesson. The most impressive castles can be seen along the border with France, where stand the Ch‰teau de Foug€res, the Ch‰teau de Vitr‚, the Ch‰teau de Ch‰teaubriant and the Ch‰teau 37 Brittany 38 de Clisson. The French Renaissance occurred when Brittany lost its independence. The Renaissance architecture is almost absent in the region, apart in Upper Brittany, close to the border with France. Major sites include the Ch‰teau des ducs de Bretagne, the last permanent residence of the dukes, which displays the transition from late Gothic to Renaissance style. The Ch‰teau de Ch‰teaubriant, a former fortress, was transformed into a vast palace in the Italian style. A traditional house in Plougoumelen. In Lower Brittany, the medieval style never totally disappeared. However, local innovations permitted some changes and the birth of a particular style. Its most distinctive feature is the parish close, which displays an elaborately decorated church surrounded by an entirely walled churchyard. Many villages still have their closes, they date from the 16th and 17th centuries and sometimes include an elaborately carved calvary sculpture. During the 17th and the 18th centuries, the main seaports and towns obtained a typical French look, with baroque and neoclassical buildings. Nantes, which was at the time the biggest French harbour, received a theatre, large avenues and quays, and Rennes was redesigned after a fire in 1720. At the same period, the wealthy ship-owners from Saint-Malo built many mansions called "Malouini€res" around their town. Along the coast, Vauban and other French architects designed several citadels, such as in Le Palais and An Art Deco villa in B‚nodet. Port-Louis. In rural areas, Breton houses remained simple, with a single floor and a longhouse pattern. They were built with local materials: mostly granit in Lower Brittany and schist in Upper Brittany. Slates and reeds were usually used for roofing. During the 19th century, the Breton architecture was mainly characterised by the Gothic Revival and Eclecticism. Clisson, the southernmost Breton town, was rebuilt in an Italian Romantic style around 1820. The Breton lighthouses were mostly built during the 19th century. The most famous are Ar Men, Phare d'Eckm¢hl, La Vieille and La Jument. The lighthouse on the le Vierge is, with 77 meters, the highest in Europe. At the end of the 19th century, several seaside resorts were created along the coast and villas and hotels were built in historicist, Art Nouveau, and later in the Art Deco styles. These architectures are particularly present in Dinard, La Baule and B‚nodet. Architecture from the 20th century can be seen in Saint-Nazaire, Brest and Lorient, three cities destroyed during the Second World War and rebuilt afterwards, and in the works of the Breton nationalist architects like James Bouill‚ and Olier Mordrel. Brittany 39 Fine arts Until the 19th century, Catholicism had been the main inspiration for Breton artists. The region has a great number of baroque retables, made between the 17th and the 19th century. Breton sculptors were also famous for their ship models that served as ex-votos and for their richly decorated furniture, which features na†ve Breton characters and traditional patterns. The box-bed is the most famous Breton piece of furniture. The Breton style had a strong revival between 1900 and the Second World War and it was used by the Seiz Breur movement. The Seiz Breur artists also tried to invent a modern Breton art by rejecting French standards and mixing traditional techniques with new materials. The leading artists of that period were the designer Ren‚-Yves Creston, the illustrators Jeanne Malivel and Xavier Haas, and the sculptors Raffig Tullou, Francis Renaud, Georges Robin, Joseph Savina, Jules-Charles Le Bozec and Jean Fr‚our. The Beautiful Angƒle by Paul Gauguin. Brittany is also known for its needlework, which can be seen on its numerous headdress models, and for its faience production, which started at the beginning of the 18th century. Quimper faience is known worldwide for its bowls and plates painted by hand, and other towns, such as Pornic, also maintain a similar tradition. The potteries usually feature na†ve Breton characters in traditional clothing and daily scenes. The designs have a strong traditional Breton influence, but Orientalism and Art Deco have also been used. Because of its distinct culture and beautiful landscapes, Brittany has inspired many French artists since the 19th century. The Pont-Aven School, which started to emerge in the 1850s and lasted until the beginning of the 20th century, had a decisive influence on modern painting. The artists who settled in Pont-Aven wanted to break away from the Academic style of the •cole des Beaux-Arts and later from Impressionism when it began to decline. Among them were Paul Gauguin, Paul Signac, Marc Chagall, Paul S‚rusier and Raymond Wintz. Before them, Brittany had also been visited by Academic and Romantic painters like Jean Antoine Th‚odore de Gudin and Jules Achille Noˆl who were looking for dramatic seascapes and storms. Music Main articles: Music of Brittany and Breton dance Since the early 1970s, Brittany has experienced a tremendous revival of its folk music. Numerous festivals were created, along with smaller festo‹ noz (popular feasts). The bagado‹, bands composed of bagpipes, bombards and drums (including snare), are also a modern creation, inspired by the Scottish pipe bands. The Lann-Bihou‚ bagad, one of the most well-known, belongs to the French Navy. It is the only one that does not take part to the annual bagado¡ competitions. Celtic harp is also common, as are vocals and dances. The Kan ha diskan is the most common type of singing. The performers sing calls and responses The Lann-Bihou‚ bagad. while dancing. Breton dances usually imply circles, chains or couples and they are different in every region. The oldest dances seem to be the passepied and the gavotte, and the newest ones derive from the quadrille and French Renaissance dances. In the 1960s, several Breton artists started to use contemporary patterns to create a Breton pop music. Among them, Alan Stivell highly contributed to popularise the Celtic harp and Breton music in the world. He also used American Brittany 40 rock and roll in his works and influenced 1970s Breton bands such as Kornog, Gwerz and Tri Yann, who revived traditional songs and made them popular across France. Soldat Louis is the main Breton rock band and the most famous Wikipedia:Avoid weasel words Breton singers are Gilles Servat, Glenmor, Dan Ar Braz, Yann-Fa£ch Kemener, Denez Prigent, Nolwenn Korbell and Nolwenn Leroy. The Manau Hip hop group from Paris has strong Breton and Celtic inspirations. Yann Tiersen, who composed the soundtrack for Am•lie, the Electro band Yelle and the avant-garde singer Brigitte Fontaine are also from Brittany. The 19th-century composer Louis-Albert Bourgault-Ducoudray was one of the first western European composers to be influenced by what is now known as world music. Legends and literature Brittany is closely associated with the Matter of Britain and King Arthur. According to Wace, Broc‚liande is located in Brittany and it is nowadays considered to be Paimpont forest. There, ruins of a castle surrounded by a lake are associated with the Lady of the Lake, a dolmen is said to be Merlin's tomb and a path is presented as Morgan le Fay's Val sans Retour. Tristan and Iseult are also said to have lived in Brittany. Another major Breton legend is the story about Ys, a city swallowed by the ocean. Breton literature before the 19th century was mostly oral. The oral tradition entertained by medieval poets died out during the 15th century and books in Breton were very rare before 1850. At that time, local writers started to collect and publish local tales and legends and wrote original works. Published between 1925 and the Second World War, the literary journal Gwalarn favoured a modern Breton literature and helped translating widely known novels into Breton. After the war, the journal Al Liamm pursued that mission. Among the authors writing in Breton are Auguste Brizeux, a Romantic poet, the neo-Druidic bard Erwan Berthou, Th‚odore Hersart de La Villemarqu‚, who collected the local legends around King Arthur, Roparz Hemon, founder of Gwalarn, PŠr-Jakez Helias, Glenmor, PŠr Denez and Meavenn. The singer-songwriter Th‚odore Botrel dressed in traditional Breton costume. Breton literature in French includes 19th-century historical novels by •mile Souvestre, travel journals by Anatole Le Braz, poems and novels by Charles Le Goffic, the works of the singer-songwriter Th‚odore Botrel and of the maritime writer Henri Queff‚lec. Brittany is also the birthplace of many French writers like Fran…ois-Ren‚ de Chateaubriand, Jules Verne, Ernest Renan, F‚licit‚ Robert de Lamennais and Pierre Ab‚lard. The comic books covering the adventures of Asterix the Gaul set during the time of Julius Caesar and written in the 2nd half of the 20th century was set in Amorica- now Brittany. Brittany 41 Museums The Museum of Brittany, located in Rennes, was founded in 1856. Its collections are mainly dedicated to the history of the region. Museums dedicated to Prehistory and local megaliths are located in Carnac and Penmarch, while several towns like Vannes and Nantes have a museum presenting their own history. The Museum of Fine Arts of Rennes owns a large collection of Egyptian, Greek and Roman antiquities as well as drawings and engravings by Domenico Ghirlandaio, Parmigianino, Albrecht D¢rer and Rembrandt. Its French art collection gathers works by Georges de La Tour, Fran…ois Boucher, Paul Gauguin, Auguste Rodin, Camille Corot and Robert Delaunay. It has also works by Pablo Picasso, Rubens, Peter Lely and Paolo Veronese. The collections of the Museum of Fine Arts of Nantes are more dedicated to modern and contemporary art and contain works by Edward Burne-Jones, Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, Eug€ne Delacroix, Gustave Courbet, Paul Signac, Tamara de Lempicka, Wassily Kandinsky, Max Ernst, Pierre Soulages and Piero Manzoni. The Museums of Fine Arts of Brest and Quimper offer similar collections, with large quantities of French painting together with the works of some Italian and Dutch artists. The Museum of Fine Arts Pont-Aven is dedicated to the School of Pont-Aven. Contemporary sculptures can be seen in the park around the Ch‰teau de Kergu‚hennec, in Bignan. Museums in Saint-Malo, Lorient and Douarnenez are dedicated to ships and maritime traditions and history. The Mus‚e national de la Marine has a large annexe in Brest and a submarine is opened to visitors in Lorient. In the same town, it is also possible to visit the Keroman Submarine Base built in 1942, and the Cit• de la voile Œric Tabarly, a museum dedicated to sailing. In Saint-Nazaire, where many transatlantic ships where built, including SS Normandie and SS France, a museum showing transatlantic interiors was installed in a Second World War base. Nantes has a museum dedicated to Jules Verne, a Natural History Museum and a museum of archaeology and design, the Mus‚e Dobr‚e. Festivals Brittany has a vibrant calendar of festivals and events. It hosts some of France's biggest contemporary music festivals, such as La Route du Rock in Saint-Malo, the Vieilles Charrues in Carhaix, the Rencontres Trans Musicales in Rennes, the Festival du Bout du Monde in Crozon, the Hellfest in Clisson and the Astropolis in Brest. The Festival Interceltique de Lorient welcomes each year participants all the Celtic nations and their diasporas. La Folle Journ‚e, in Nantes, is the largest classical music festival in France. The G•theborg at the Brest tall ship meeting in The Breton culture is highlighted during the F…te de la Bretagne, 2012. which occurs in many places around Saint-Yves's day (19 May), and during the Festival de Cornouaille in Quimper. Several towns also organise historical re-enactments and events around local traditions, such as the Filets Bleus in Concarneau which celebrates fishing. Brittany also has some film festivals like the Three Continents Festival in Nantes. The Utopiales international science fiction festival is held in the same city. Brest and Douarnenez both organise large tall ship meetings. Brittany 42 Sport Football, cycling and sailing are the three most popular sports in Brittany. Major football teams are the FC Nantes, the Stade rennais, the FC Lorient, the Stade brestois the Vannes OC and the En Avant de Guingamp. Professional footballers coming from the region also form the Brittany national football team which sometimes plays with national teams. Several Bretons have won the Tour de France: Bernard Hinault, Cyrille Guimard, Louison Bobet, Jean Robic and Lucien Petit-Breton. Sailing is particularly important for sea-resorts like La Trinit‚-sur-Mer, Pornichet, Concarneau, Lorient and the ‹les de Gl‚nan, where a prestigious school is located. A great number of Bretons have become acclaimed sailors: •ric Tabarly, Lo†ck Peyron, Jean Le Cam, Michel Desjoyeaux, Olivier de Kersauson, Thomas Coville, Vincent Riou, Marc PajotŠ The Route du Rhum, the Transat Qu‚bec-Saint-Malo, the Jules Verne Trophy are the main Breton sailing competitions. The Solitaire du Figaro stages often start in Brittany. Gouren, a style of folk wrestling, is the most popular Breton sport. The Boule bretonne is related to p‚tanque. The Palets, common in Upper Brittany and in other French regions, is also related to p‚tanque, but players use iron disks instead of balls and they have to throw them on a wooden board. Cuisine Although Muscadet and Gros Plant white wines are produced south of the Loire, the traditional drink of Brittany is cider. Brittany is the second largest cider-producing region in France. It is traditionally served in a bowl or a cup. Brittany also has a long beer brewing tradition, tracing its roots back to the 17th century. Young artisanal brewers are keeping a variety of beer types alive, such as Coreff de Morlaix, Tri Martolod and Britt. Stronger alcohols include the chouchen, a sort of mead made with wild honey, and an apple eau de vie called lambig. Galettes served with eggs and sausages. CrŠpes and galettes are the two most iconic Breton dishes. The crŠpe made and served with butter, are eaten for dessert or breakfast, and the galettes are usually salty and made with buckwheat. They traditionally replaced bread as basic food and they can be served with cheese, sausages, bacon, mushrooms or eggs. They can be accompanied by Breton buttermilk called lait ribot. Brittany also has a dish similar to the pot-au-feu known as the Kig ha farz, which consists of stewed pork or beef with buckwheat dumplings. Surrounded by the sea, Brittany offers a wide range of fresh seafood and fish, especially mussels and oysters. Among the seafood specialities is a fish stew called cotriade. The Beurre blanc sauce, invented in Saint-Julien-de-Concelles, close to Nantes, is often served with fish. Brittany is also known for its salt, mainly harvested around Gu‚rande and used in butter and milk caramels. The region is notable for its biscuit factories, many towns having their own: Quimper, Lorient, Pont-Aven, Saint-Brieuc, BN and LU in Nantes, La Trinitaine in La Trinit‚-sur-Mer, and Galettes Saint-Michel in Saint-Michel-Chef-Chef. They usually make their biscuits with salted butter and sell them in iron boxes. Famous Breton pastries include the kouign amann ("butter cake" in Breton) made with bread dough and high quantities of butter and sugar, the far, a sort of sweet Yorkshire pudding, and the clafoutis, usually made with plums. Brittany 43 Transport Road Until the 1970s, the Breton road network was poor because maritime and rail transport prevailed. The French president Charles de Gaulle implemented a major road construction plan in the 1970 and Brittany received over 10 billion francs of investments during 25 years.[17] More than 10,000‘km of motorways were built, permitting Breton road transport to multiply by four. The Breton motorways are not toll roads, contrarily to the usual French highways.[18][19] The main road artery linking cities and other settlements along the north coast is the Route nationale 12 which connects the cities of Rennes, Saint-Brieuc, Morlaix and Brest. It also provides a link to An old road sign on the Route Nationale 786 in southern Normandy, terminating in Paris. In south Brittany the Route Tr‚veneuc. nationale 165 performs a similar role along the south coast providing connections between Nantes, Vannes, Lorient, Quimper and Brest. The Route nationale 164 crosses the centre of the peninsula and connects Rennes to Loud‚ac, Morlaix and Ch‰teaulin, and the Route nationale 166 links Rennes to Vannes. The Route nationale 137 provides connections between Saint-Malo, Rennes and Nantes and terminates in Bordeaux. Nantes is linked to Paris by the A11 autoroute, and Rennes is both on the A81 autoroute to Paris and the A84 autoroute to Caen. These highways are standard French toll road. Air The Morlaix railway viaduct is one of the highest in France. The biggest Breton airport is Nantes Atlantique Airport. It serves destinations in the United Kingdom, Italy, Germany, Ireland, Morocco... It will be replaced around 2017 by the new A‚roport du Grand Ouest, located 30‘km to the north-west of Nantes. The Brest Bretagne Airport is the second airport in Brittany. It is followed by Rennes • Saint-Jacques, Lorient South Brittany and Dinard • Saint-Malo. The Saint-Brieuc • Armor airport serves flights between Brittany and the Channel Islands. Others smaller airport operates domestic flights in Quimper, and Lannion. Rail Brittany is on two major TGV lines, one linking Paris to Nantes and Le Croisic, on the south coast, and another linking Paris to Rennes and Brest. The LGV Atlantique which stops at Le Mans will be extended to Rennes in 2017, providing faster connections between Paris and Brittany. TGV train services also link the region with cities such as Lyon, Strasbourg, Marseille, and Lille. Secondary train services are operated by TER Bretagne which provides connections between small The Brittany Ferries MS Bretagne off Saint-Malo. Brittany 44 towns such as Vannes, Carhaix, Roscoff and Paimpol. TER Bretagne also manages coach lines and connections between Rennes and Nantes. TER Pays de la Loire operates trains between Nantes and smaller towns in Loire-Atlantique. Sea There are ferry services that take passengers, vehicles and freight to Ireland, England and the Channel Islands. The main companies are Brittany Ferries which operates lines between Plymouth and Roscoff, Portsmouth and Saint-Malo, and Roscoff and Cork. Irish Ferries operates the route Rosslare-Roscoff and Condor Ferries link Saint-Malo with Jersey. Symbols The modern flag of Brittany was designed in 1923. It is called Gwenn ha Du ("white and black" in Breton) and it features eleven ermine spots (their number may vary) and nine stripes, the black ones represent the Breton speaking historical dioceses, and the white ones symbolise the gallo speaking dioceses. The flag was created to replace the traditional ermine plain standard, considered too aristocratic and royalist. It was [20] inspired by the American flag and the British Red Ensign. Since the 1920s, the flag has become very popular and it is flown from a large number of institutions. Apart from the ermine flag, Breton historic banners include the Kroaz Du, a white flag with a black cross, the perfect negative of the Cornish flag. The ermine was the badge of several dukes of Brittany. The modern flag of Brittany. The coat of arms of Brittany, ermine plain, was adopted by John III in 1316. Ermine had been used in Brittany long before, and there is no clue about its origin. It was probably chosen by the dukes because of its similarity with the French fleur-de-lis. The ermine, or stoat, as an animal became the badge of John IV at the end of the 14th century. It appeared later on numerous locations, including churches and castles. According to popular traditions, Anne of Brittany was hunting with her court when she saw a white ermine who preferred to die than to cross a dirty marsh. This episode would have inspired the duchess' motto : "Potius mori quam foedari" ("rather death than dishonour").[21] The motto has later been reused by Breton regiments, local World War II Resistants and cultural movements. The Breton anthem, although not official, is Bro Gozh ma Zado‹ ("Old Land of My Fathers"). It reemploys the Welsh anthem's music and its lyrics were written at the end of the 19th century. Colloquial Breton emblems include the Celtic triskelion, the menhirs and dolmens, local dishes such as the galettes, the Bigouden headdress and the traditional black round hat, the fisherman and his yellow raincoat, etc. BZH is a common abbreviation for "Breizh" ("Brittany" in Breton) and people often put BZH stickers on their car-plates, [22] although it is forbidden under French laws. .bzh is a proposed Internet top level domain for the Breton culture and [23] languages. Brittany 45 Image gallery Merlin's tomb in the A dolmen in The city wall of Castle of Saint-Malo, Broc‚liande forest, Paimpont Plouharnel Gu‚rande Qui Qu'en Grogne Tower Ch‰teau de Suscinio le Vierge lighthouse Abbey and lighthouse Ar Meilho‹ Glaz, a Bagad Festival du chant de A Breton of Saint-Mathieu from Quimper marin, sea songs headdress festival in Paimpol from Batz-sur-Mer Modern Brittany Illustration from Legends & Romances of Brittany by Lewis Spence, illustrated by W. Otway Cannell. References [1] Mark Patton, Statements in Stone: Monuments and Society in Neolithic Brittany, Routledge, 1993, p.1 [2] L‚on Fleuriot, Les origines de la Bretagne: l€•migration, Paris, Payot, 1980. [3] Smith, Julia M. H. Province and Empire: Brittany and the Carolingians, Cambridge University Press, 1992, pp.80•83. [4] Constance De La Warr, A Twice Crowned Queen: Anne of Brittany, Peter Owen, 2005 [5] Joˆl Cornette, Le marquis et le R‚gent. Une conspiration bretonne ‡ l'aube des Lumi€res, Paris, Tallandier, 2008. [6] J. R. Rott‚, Ar Seiz Breur. Recherches et r•alisations pour un art Breton moderne, 1923•1947, 1987. [7] Donn‚es des stations fran…aises (http:/ / www. infoclimat. fr/ climatologie/ index. php?s=& d=) [8] ŽLa Lente Mise en Place des Universit•s Bretonnes• (http:/ / www. espace-sciences. org/ science/ 10065-sciences-ouest/ 20106-Annee-1993/ 10235-93/ 10880-gros-plan/ 16926-histoire/ 16927-la-lente-mise-en-place-des/ index. html), Science Ouest NŽ93 [9] ICBL information about Breton (http:/ / www. breizh. net/ icdbl/ saozg/ endangered. htm#Image No. 2: Breton is a hindrance to good citizenship) at breizh.net [10] Diwan FAQ, #6 (http:/ / www. diwanbreizh. org/ sections. php4?op=viewarticle& artid=6). [11] Insee Bretagne • Atlas des immigr‚s en Bretagne (http:/ / www. insee. fr/ fr/ insee_regions/ bretagne/ rfc/ docs/ fasild. pdf) Brittany [12] Sondage CNRS, TMO-Ouest. R‚sultats (http:/ / www. agencebretagnepresse. com/ pdfs/ 15280_2. pdf) comment‚s dans Ouest-France, 14-05.2009, page 7 (http:/ / www. ouest-france. fr/ region/ bretagne_detail_-Breton-et-Francais-la-double-identite-affirmee-_8619-932595_actu. Htm). [13] Fa£ch Broudic, 2009. Parler breton au XXIe siƒcle • Le nouveau sondage de TMO-R•gions. (including data from 2007: 172,000 speakers in Lower Brittany; slightly under 200,000 in whole Brittany; 206,000 including students in bilingual education) [14] Donn‚es cl‚s sur breton, Ofis ar Brezhoneg (http:/ / www. ofis-bzh. org/ fr/ langue_bretonne/ chiffres_cles/ index. php) [15] Bretagne: poems (in French), by Amand Gu‚rin, Published by P. Masgana, 1842: page 238 [16] Anatole le Braz, La Legende de la Mort, BiblioBazaar reprint, LLC, 2009, pp. 430ff. [17] Plan routier breton (2) (http:/ / www. espace-sciences. org/ science/ 10065-sciences-ouest/ 20109-Annee-1996/ 10195-125/ 10680-gros-plan/ 12801-histoire-et-societe/ 12803-le-plan-routier-breton/ index. html) [18] Plan routier breton (3) (http:/ / www. espace-sciences. org/ science/ 10065-sciences-ouest/ 20109-Annee-1996/ 10197-123/ 10690-gros-plan/ 15348-histoire-et-societe/ 15350-le-plan-routier-breton-2/ index. html) [19] Plan routier breton (4) (http:/ / www. espace-sciences. org/ science/ 10065-sciences-ouest/ 20109-Annee-1996/ 10196-124/ 10685-gros-plan/ 12851-histoire-et-societe/ 12852-le-plan-routier-breton-3/ index. html) [20] Francis Favereau, Bretagne contemporaine • Culture, langue, identit•? page 210, Skol Vreizh, Morlaix, 2005, . [21] Gwenc'hlan Le Scouˆzec, Guide de la Bretagne, page 40, Coop Breizh, Sp‚zet, 1987; and Le Journal de la Bretagne des origines † nos jours, page 106, Larousse, Paris, 2001 [22] L'arrŠt‚ du 7 juin 1967 (http:/ / www. legifrance. gouv. fr/ jopdf/ common/ jo_pdf. jsp?numJO=0& dateJO=19670707& numTexte=& pageDebut=06810& pageFin=) [23] http:/ / www. domainesinfo. fr/ english/ 136/ brittany-s-bzh-the-next-regional-domain. php External links „ Brittany : in the West, the end of the world (http://www.france.fr/en/regions-and-cities/ brittany-west-end-world) • Official French website (in English) „ Brittany (http://www.dmoz.org/Regional/Europe/France/Regions/Brittany) at DMOZ „ The official site for Brittany Tourism‘• Brittany Regional Tourist Board (http://www.brittanytourism.com/) „ Personelezh Breizh e saozneg‘• Breton identity (http://www.breizh.net/identity/) „ Western France Tourist Board (http://westernfrancetouristboard.com/brittany.html) Brittany tourism information „ Bretagne.com: Tourisme et Loisirs en Bretagne (in French) (http://www.bretagne.com) Coordinates: 48Ž00‹N 3Ž00‹W (http:/ / tools. wmflabs. org/ geohack/ geohack. php?pagename=Brittany& params=48_00_N_3_00_W_region:FR_type:adm1st_source:kolossus-cawiki) 46 Normandy 47 Normandy For other uses, see Normandy (disambiguation). Normandy Normandie / Nourmaundie Historical province Flag Coat of arms Motto: • Diex A†e ! ƒ Country ‘France ‘United Kingdom ( ‘Jersey ‘Guernsey) Largest settlements Area ‚€‚Total 30,100‘km2 (11,600‘sq‘mi) Population (2005) ‚€‚Total 3,450,388 Demonym Normands Time zone CET (UTC+1) ‚€‚Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Normandy (French: Normandie, pronounced [nŒ†.m•Ž.di], Norman: Nourmaundie, from Old French Normanz, plural of Normand, originally from the word for "northman" in several Scandinavian languages) is a geographical region of France corresponding to the former Duchy of Normandy. [1] The continental territory covers 30,627‘km• and forms the preponderant part of Normandy and roughly 5% of the territory of France. It is divided for administrative purposes into two regions: Lower Normandy and Upper Normandy. The population of Normandy is around 3.45‘million. The continental population of 3.26‘million accounts for 5.5% of the population of France (in 2005). The Channel Islands (referred to as •les Anglo-Normandes in French) are historically part of Normandy, cover 194‘km• and comprise two bailiwicks: Guernsey and Jersey, which are British Crown dependencies. Upper Normandy (Haute-Normandie) consists of the French departments of Seine-Maritime and Eure, and Lower Normandy (Basse-Normandie) of the departments of Orne, Calvados, and Manche. The earlier province of Normandy comprised present-day Upper and Lower Normandy, as well as small areas now part of the d•partements of Eure-et-Loir, Mayenne, and Sarthe. The name is derived from the settlement of the territory by Vikings ("Northmen") from the 9th century, and confirmed by treaty in the 10th century. For a century and a half following Normandy 48 the Norman Conquest of England in 1066, Normandy and England were linked by Norman and Frankish rulers. During the Second World War, the D Day landings on the Normandy beaches, under the code name Operation Overlord, started the lengthy Battle of Normandy and resulted in the Liberation of Paris and the restoration of the French Republic. These landings were a significant turning point in the war. Lower Normandy is predominantly agricultural in character, with cattle breeding the most important sector (although in decline from the peak levels of the 1970s and 1980s). The bocage is a patchwork of small fields with high hedges, typical of western areas. Upper Normandy contains a higher concentration of industry. Normandy is a significant cider-producing region, and also produces calvados, a distilled cider or apple brandy. Other activities of economic importance are dairy produce, flax (60% of production in France), horse breeding (including two French national stud farms), fishing, seafood, and tourism. The region contains three French nuclear power stations. There is also easy access to and from the UK using the ports of Cherbourg, Caen (Ouistreham), Le Havre and Dieppe.[2] History Main article: History of Normandy Archaeological finds, such as cave paintings, prove that humans were present in the region in prehistoric times. Belgae and Celts, known as Gauls, invaded Normandy in successive waves from the 4th to the 3rd century BC. When Julius Caesar invaded Gaul, there were nine different Gallic tribes in Normandy. The Romanisation of Normandy was achieved by the usual methods: Roman roads and a policy of urbanisation. Classicists have knowledge of many Gallo-Roman villas in Normandy. Roman theatre in Lillebonne In the late 3rd century, barbarian raids devastated Normandy. Coastal settlements were raided by Saxon pirates. Christianity also began to enter the area during this period. In 406, Germanic tribes began invading from the east, while the Saxons subjugated the Norman coast. The Roman Emperor withdrew from most of Normandy. As early as 487, the area between the River Somme and the River Loire came under the control of the Frankish lord Clovis. The Vikings started to raid the Seine Valley during the middle of 9th century. After attacking and destroying monasteries, including one at Jumi€ges, they took advantage of the power vacuum created by the disintegration of Charlemagne's empire to take northern France. The fiefdom of Normandy was created for the Norwegian/Danish Viking leader Hrolf Ragnvaldsson, or Rollo (also known as Robert of Normandy). Rollo had besieged Paris but in 911 entered vassalage to the king of the West Franks, Charles the Simple, through the Treaty of Saint-Clair-sur-Epte. In exchange for his homage and fealty, Rollo legally gained the territory which he and his Viking allies had previously conquered. The name "Normandy" reflects Rollo's Viking (i.e. "Northman") origins. The descendants of Rollo and his followers adopted the local Gallo-Romance language and intermarried with the area's original inhabitants. They became the Normans • a Norman-speaking mixture of Scandinavians, Hiberno-Norse, Orcadians, Anglo-Danish, Saxons and indigenous Franks and Gauls. Rollo's descendant William, Duke of Normandy, became king of England in 1066 in the Norman Conquest culminating at the Battle of Hastings, while retaining the fiefdom of Normandy for himself and his descendants. Normandy 49 Norman expansion Besides the Norman conquest of England and the subsequent conquests of Wales and Ireland, the Normans expanded into other areas. Norman families, such as that of Tancred of Hauteville, played important parts in the Crusades. Tancred's sons William Iron Arm, Drogo of Hauteville, Humphrey of Hauteville, Robert Guiscard and Roger the Great Count conquered the Emirate of Sicily and additional territories in Southern Italy. They also carved out a place for themselves and their descendants in the Crusader states of Asia Minor and the Holy Land. Norman possessions in the 12th century The 14th century Norman explorer Jean de B‚thencourt established a kingdom in the Canary Islands. B‚thencourt received the title King of the Canary Islands but recognised as his overlord Henry III of Castile, who had provided aid during the conquest. 13th to 17th centuries In 1204, during the reign of England's King John, mainland Normandy was taken from England by France under Philip II of France. Insular Normandy (the Channel Islands) remained under English control. In 1259, Henry III of England recognised the legality of French possession of mainland Normandy under the Treaty of Paris. His successors, however, often fought to regain control of mainland French Normandy. The Charte aux Normands granted by Louis X of France in 1315 (and later re-confirmed in 1339) • like the analogous Magna Carta granted in England in the aftermath of 1204 • guaranteed the liberties and privileges of the province of Normandy. French Normandy was occupied by English forces during the Hundred Years' War in 1345•1360 and again in 1415•1450. Normandy lost three-quarters of its population during the war. Afterward Animated map of the Hundred Years' War prosperity returned to Normandy until the Wars of Religion. When many Norman towns (Alen…on, Rouen, Caen, Coutances, Bayeux) joined the Protestant Normandy 50 Reformation, battles ensued throughout the province. In the Channel Islands, a period of Calvinism following the Reformation was suppressed when Anglicanism was imposed following the English Civil War. Samuel de Champlain left the port of Honfleur in 1604 and founded Acadia. Four years later, he founded Quebec City. From then onwards, Normans engaged in a policy of expansion in North America. They continued the exploration of the New World: Ren‚-Robert Cavelier de La Salle travelled in the area of the Great Lakes, then on the Mississippi River. Pierre Le Moyne d'Iberville and his brother Lemoyne de Bienville founded Louisiana, Biloxi, Mobile and New Orleans. Territories located between Quebec and the Mississippi Delta were opened up to establish Canada and Louisiana. Colonists from Normandy were among the most active in New France, comprising Acadia, Canada, and Louisiana. Honfleur and Le Havre were two of the principal slave trade ports of France. Modern history Although agriculture remained important, industries such as weaving, metallurgy, sugar refining, ceramics, and shipbuilding were introduced and developed. In the 1780s, the economic crisis and the crisis of the Ancien R•gime struck Normandy as well as other parts of the nation, leading to the French Revolution. Bad harvests, technical progress and the effects of the Eden Agreement signed in 1786 affected employment and the economy of the province. Normans laboured under a heavy fiscal burden. In 1790 the five departments of Normandy replaced the former province. 11 July 1793, the Norman Charlotte Corday assassinated Marat. The Normans reacted little to the many political upheavals which characterised the 19th century. Overall they warily accepted the changes of r‚gime (First French Empire, Bourbon Restoration, July Monarchy, French Second Republic, Second French Empire, French Third Republic). There was an economic revival (mechanization of textile manufacture, first trains...) after the French Revolutionary Wars and the Napoleonic Wars (1792•1815). And new economic activity stimulated the coasts: seaside tourism. The 19th century marks the birth of the first beach resorts. During the Second World War, following the armistice of 22 June 1940, continental Normandy was part of the German occupied zone of France. The Channel Islands were occupied by German forces between 30 June 1940 and 9 May 1945. The town of Dieppe was the site of the unsuccessful Dieppe Raid by Canadian and British armed forces. The Allies in this case involving Britain, the U.S, and Canada coordinated a massive build-up of troops and supplies to support a large-scale invasion of Normandy in the D-Day landings on 6 June Allied invasion of Normandy, D-Day, 1944 1944 under the code name Operation Overlord. The Germans were dug into fortified emplacements above the beaches. Caen, Cherbourg, Carentan, Falaise and other Norman towns endured many casualties in the Battle of Normandy, which continued until the closing of the so-called Falaise gap between Chambois and Mont Ormel. The liberation of Le Havre followed. This was a significant turning point in the war and led to the restoration of the French Republic. The remainder of Normandy was liberated only on 9 May 1945 at the end of the war, when the Occupation of the Channel Islands effectively ended. Normandy 51 Geography The historical Duchy of Normandy was a formerly independent duchy occupying the lower Seine area, the Pays de Caux and the region to the west through the Pays d'Auge as far as the Cotentin Peninsula. The region is bordered along the northern coasts by the English Channel. There are granite cliffs in the west and limestone cliffs in the east. There are also long stretches of beach in the centre of the region. The bocage typical of the western areas caused problems for the invading forces in the Battle of Normandy. A notable feature of the landscape is created by the meanders of the Seine as it approaches its estuary. A typical northeastern Norman village The highest point is the Signal d'•couves (417m) in the Massif armoricain. Normandy is sparsely forested:[3] 12.8% of the territory is wooded, compared to a French average of 23.6%, although the proportion varies between the departments. Eure has most cover (21%) while Manche has least (4%), a characteristic shared with the Islands. Regions „ The Avranchin „ The Bessin „ The Bauptois „ The bocage virois „ The campagne d'Alen…on „ The campagne d'Argentan „ The campagne de Caen „ The campagne de Falaise „ The campagne du Neubourg „ The campagne de Saint-Andr‚ (or d‚•vreux) Former Cistercian Abbey of Gruchet-le-Valasse. „ The Cotentin „ The Perche „ The Domfrontais or Passais „ The Hi‚mois „ The Lieuvin „ The Mortainais „ The pays d'Auge, central Normandy, is characterized by excellent agricultural land. „ The pays de Bray „ The pays de Caux „ The pays d'Houlme „ The pays de Madrie: territoire entre la Seine et L'Eure „ The pays d'Ouche „ The Roumois et Marais-Vernier „ The Suisse normande (Norman Switzerland), in the south, presents hillier terrain. „ The Val de Saire „ The Vexin normand Marais-Vernier Normandy 52 Channel Islands „ The bailliage of Jersey „ The bailliage of Guernsey The Channel Islands, although British Crown Dependencies, are considered culturally and historically a part of Normandy. Although the British surrendered claims to mainland Normandy, France, and other French possessions in 1801, the monarch of the United Kingdom retains the title Duke of Normandy in respect to the Channel Islands.Wikipedia:Citation needed The Channel Islands Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Mer et bateaux (Sea and (except for Chausey) remain Crown dependencies of the British Crown ships), 1883, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New in the present era. Thus the Loyal Toast in the Channel Islands is La York. Reine, notre Duc ("The Queen, our Duke"). The British monarch is understood to not be the Duke with regards to mainland Normandy described herein, by virtue of the Treaty of Paris of 1259, the surrender of French possessions in 1801, and the belief that the rights of succession to that title are subject to Salic Law which excludes inheritance through female heirs.Wikipedia:Citation needed Rivers Rivers in Normandy include: „ the Seine and its tributaries: „ the Andelle „ the Epte „ the Eure „ the Risle „ the Robec And many coastal rivers: The Seine in Les Andelys „ the Bresle „ the Couesnon, which traditionally marks the boundary between the Duchy of Brittany and the Duchy of Normandy „ the Dives „ the Orne „ the S‚e „ the S‚lune „ the Touques „ the Veules, the shortest French river „ the Vire The Bresle Normandy 53 Towns See: Category:Towns in Normandy The principal cities (population at the 1999 census) are Rouen (518,316 inhabitants in the metropolitan area), the capital of Upper Normandy and formerly of the whole province; Caen (420,000 inhabitants in the metropolitan area), the capital of Lower Normandy; Le Havre (296,773 inhabitants in the metropolitan area); and Cherbourg (117,855 inhabitants in the metropolitan area). See also: Norman Toponymy Half-timbered Houses in Rouen Population In January 2006 the population of Normandy (including the part of Perche which lies inside the Orne d•partement but excluding the Channel Islands) was estimated at 3,260,000 with an average population density of 109 inhabitants per km•, just under the French national average, but rising to 147 for Upper Normandy. Economy Year Area Labour force in agriculture Labour force in industry Labour force in services [4] 2.30 % 36.10 % 61.60 % 2006 Lower Normandy[5] 6.50 % 25.00 % 68.50 % 2.20 % 20.60 % 77.20 % 2003 2006 Upper Normandy [6] France Area GDP (in million of Euros) [7] [8] (2006) Unemployment (% of the labour force) (2007) Upper Normandy 46,853 6.80 % Lower Normandy 34,064 7.90 % France 1,791,956 7.50 % Food and drink Parts of Normandy consist of rolling countryside typified by pasture for dairy cattle and apple orchards. A wide range of dairy products are produced and exported. Norman cheeses include Camembert, Livarot, Pont l'•vŠque, Brillat-Savarin, Neufch‰tel, Petit Suisse and Boursin. Normandy butter and Normandy cream are lavishly used in gastronomic specialties. Norman CattleNorman cow Normandy 54 Fish and seafood are of superior quality in Normandy.Wikipedia:Citation needed Turbot and oysters from the Cotentin Peninsula are major delicacies throughout France. Normandy is the chief oyster-cultivating, scallop-exporting, and mussel-raising region in France. Normandy is a major cider-producing region (very little wine is produced). Perry is also produced, but in less significant quantities. Apple brandy, of which the most famous variety is calvados, is also popular. The mealtime trou normand, or "Norman hole", is a pause between meal courses in which diners partake of a glassful of calvados in order to improve the appetite and make room for the next course, and this is still observed in many homes and restaurants. Pommeau is an ap•ritif produced by blending unfermented cider and apple brandy. Another aperitif is the kir normand, a measure of cr€me de cassis topped up with cider. B•n•dictine is produced in F‚camp. Cider from Normandy Apples are also widely used in cooking: for example, moules † la normande are mussels cooked with apples and cream, bourdelots are apples baked in pastry, partridges are flamed with reinette apples, and localities all over the province have their own variation of apple tart, that is more popular named tan tan tan tan, because the people can't say the correct name "Tarte Tatin", a classic pastry dish from the region is Norman Tart a pastry-based variant of the apple tart. Other regional specialities include tripes † la mode de Caen, andouilles and andouillettes, salt meadow (pr• sal•) lamb, seafood (mussels, scallops, lobsters, mackerelŠ), and teurgoule (spiced rice pudding). Normandy dishes include duckling † la rouennaise, saut‚ed chicken yvetois, and goose en daube. Rabbit is cooked with morels, or † la havraise (stuffed with truffled pigs' trotters). Other dishes are sheep's trotters † la rouennaise, casseroled veal, larded calf's liver braised with carrots, and veal (or turkey) in cream and mushrooms. Normandy is also noted for its pastries. It is the birthplace of brioches (especially those from •vreux and Gisors) and also turns out douillons (pears baked in pastry), craquelins, roulettes in Rouen, fouaces in Caen, fallues in Lisieux, sabl•s in Lisieux. Confectionery of the region includes Rouen apple sugar, Isigny caramels, Bayeux mint chews, Falaise berlingots, Le Havre marzipans, Argentan croquettes, and Rouen macaroons. Normandy is the native land of Taillevent, cook of the kings of France Charles V and Charles VI. He wrote the earliest French cookery book named Le Viandier. Confiture de lait was also made in Normandy around the 14th century. Culture Symbols The traditional provincial flag of Normandy, gules, two leopards passant or, is used in both modern regions. The historic three-leopard version (known in the Norman language as les treis cats, "the three cats") is used by some associations and individuals, especially those who support reunification of the regions and cultural links with the Channel Islands and England. Jersey and Guernsey use three leopards in their national symbols. The three leopards represents the strength and courage Normandy has towards the neighbouring provinces. The unofficial anthem of the region is the song "Mon Normandie". Normandy 55 "Two-leopard" version, which is the main one. "Three-leopard" version Nordic Cross of Le Mouvement Normand Normandy 56 "Two-leopard" flag of Sark Coat of arms of the Duchy of Normandy Coat of arms of Guernsey Coat of arms of Jersey Normandy 57 Literature See also: Anglo-Norman literature and Gesta Normannorum Ducum The dukes of Normandy commissioned and inspired epic literature to record and legitimise their rule. Wace, Orderic Vitalis and Stephen of Rouen were among those who wrote in the service of the dukes. After the division of 1204, French literature provided the model for the development of literature in Normandy. Olivier Basselin wrote of the Vaux de Vire, the origin of literary vaudeville. Among notable Norman writers in French are Jean Marot, R‚my Belleau, Guy de Maupassant, Jules Barbey d'Aurevilly, Gustave Flaubert, Octave Mirbeau, and Remy de Gourmont, and Alexis de Tocqueville. The Corneille brothers, Pierre and Thomas, born in Rouen, were great figures of French classical literature. Guy de Maupassant Gustave Flaubert David Ferrand (1591•1660) in his Muse Normande established a landmark of Norman language literature. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the workers and merchants of Rouen established a tradition of polemical and satirical literature in a form of language called the parler purin. At the end of the 18th century and beginning of the 19th century a new movement arose in the Channel Islands, led by writers such as George M‚tivier, which sparked a literary renaissance on the Norman mainland. In exile in Jersey and then Guernsey, Victor Hugo took an interest in the vernacular literature. Les Travailleurs de la mer is a well-known novel by Hugo set in the Channel Islands. The boom in insular literature in the early 19th century encouraged production especially in La Hague and around Cherbourg, where Alfred Rossel, Louis Beuve and CŒtis-Capel became active. The typical medium for literary expression in Norman has traditionally been newspaper columns and almanacs. The novel Zabeth by Andr‚ Louis which appeared in 1969 was the first novel published in Norman. Normandy 58 Painting Normandy has a rich tradition of painting and gave to France some of its most important artists. In the 17th century some major French painters were Normans like Nicolas Poussin, born in Les Andelys and Jean Jouvenet. Romanticism drew painters to the Richard Parkes Bonington and J. M. from Great Britain, attracted by the G‚ricault, a native of Rouen, was a Channel coasts of Normandy. W. Turner crossed the Channel light and landscapes. Th‚odore notable figure in the Romantic movement, its famous Radeau de la M•duse being considered come the breakthrough of pictorial romanticism in France when it was officially presented at the 1819 Salon. The competing Realist tendency was represented by Jean-Fran…ois Millet, a native of La Hague. The landscape painter Eug€ne Boudin, born in Honfleur, was a determining influence on the impressionnists and was highly considered by Monet. Breaking away from the more formalised and classical themes of the early part of the 19th century, Impressionist painters preferred to paint outdoors, in natural light, and to concentrate on landscapes, towns and scenes of daily life. Leader of the movement and father of modern painting, Claude Monet is perhaps one of the best known Impressionists and a major character in Normandy's artistic heritage. His house and gardens at Giverny are one of the region's major tourist sites, much visited for their beauty and their water lilies, as well as for their importance to Monet's artistic inspiration. Normandy was at the heart of his creation, from the paintings of Rouen's cathedral to the Branch of the Seine near Giverny (1897) by Claude Monet Robert Antoine Pinchon, Un aprƒs-midi † l'Ile aux Cerises, Rouen, oil on canvas, 50 x 61.2 cm famous depictions of the cliffs at Etretat, the beach and port at F‚camp and the sunrise at Le Havre. It was Impression, Sunrise, Monet's painting of Le Havre, that led to the movement being dubbed Impressionism. After Monet, all the main avant-garde painters of the 1870s and 1880s came to Normandy to paint its landscapes and its changing lights, concentrating along the Seine valley and the Norman coast. Landscapes and scenes of daily life were also immortalised on canvas by artists such as William Turner, Gustave Courbet, the Honfleur born Eug€ne Boudin, Camille Pissarro, Alfred Sisley, Auguste Renoir, Gustave Caillebotte, Paul Gauguin, Georges Seurat, Paul Signac, Pierre Bonnard, Georges Braque and Pablo Picasso. While Monet's work adorns galleries and collections all over the world, a remarkable quantity of Impressionist works can be found in galleries throughout Normandy, such as the Museum of Fine Arts in Rouen, the Mus‚e Eug€ne Boudin in Honfleur or the Andr‚ Malraux Museum in Le Havre. Maurice Denis, one of the leaders and theoricists of the Nabis movement in the 1890s, was a native of Granville, in the Manche department. The Soci•t• Normande de Peinture Moderne was founded in 1909 by Pierre Dumont, Robert Antoine Pinchon, Yvonne Barbier and Eug€ne Tirvert. Among members were Raoul Dufy, a native of Le Havre, Albert Marquet, Francis Picabia and Maurice Utrillo. Also in this movement were the Duchamp brothers, Jacques Villon and Marcel Duchamp, considered one of the father of modern art, also natives of Normandy. Jean Dubuffet, one of the leading French artist of the 1940s and the 1950s was born in Le Havre. Normandy 59 Languages Main article: Norman language French is the only official language in continental Normandy. English is also an official language in the Channel Islands. The Norman language, a regional language, is spoken by a minority of the population on the continent and the islands, with a concentration in the Cotentin Peninsula in the far West (the Cotentinais dialect), and in the Pays de Caux in the East (the Cauchois dialect). Many place names demonstrate the Norse influence in this O†l language; for example -bec (stream), -fleur (river), -hou (island), -tot (homestead), -dal or -dalle (valley) and -hogue (hill, mound).[9] Architecture Main article: Architecture of Normandy Architecturally, Norman cathedrals, abbeys (such as the Abbey of Bec) and castles characterise the former Duchy in a way that mirrors the similar pattern of Norman architecture in England following the Norman Conquest of 1066. Domestic architecture in upper Normandy is typified by half-timbered buildings that also recall vernacular English architecture, although the farm enclosures of the more harshly landscaped Pays de Caux are a more idiosyncratic response to socio-economic and climatic imperatives. Much urban architectural heritage was destroyed during the Battle of Ch‰teau d'•telan (1494) Normandy in 1944 • post-war urban reconstruction, such as in Le Havre and Saint-LŒ, could be said to demonstrate both the virtues and vices of modernist and brutalist trends of the 1950s and 1960s. Le Havre, the city rebuilt by Auguste Perret, was added to Unesco‚s World Heritage List in 2005. Vernacular architecture in lower Normandy takes its form from granite, the predominant local building material. The Channel Islands also share this influence • Chausey was for many years a source of quarried granite, including that used for the construction of Mont Saint-Michel. The south part of Bagnoles-de-l'Orne is filled with bourgeois villas in Belle Œpoque style with polychrome fa…ades, bow windows and unique roofing. This area, built between 1886 and 1914, has an authentic „Bagnolese… style and is typical of high-society country vacation of the time. The Chapel of Saint Germanus (Chapelle Saint-Germain) at Querqueville with its trefoil floorplan incorporates elements of one of the earliest surviving places of Christian worship in the Cotentin • perhaps second only to the Gallo-Roman baptistry at Port-Bail. It is dedicated to Germanus of Normandy. Normandy 60 Religion Since the 1905 French law on the Separation of the Churches and the State there is no established church in mainland Normandy. In the Channel Islands, the Church of England is the established church. Christian missionaries implanted monastic communities in the territory in the 5th and 6th centuries. Some of these missionaries came from across the Channel. The influence of Celtic Christianity can still be found in the Cotentin. By the terms of the treaty of Saint-Clair-sur-Epte, Rollo, a Viking pagan, accepted Christianity and was baptised. The Duchy of Normandy was therefore formally a Christian state from its foundation. The cathedrals of Normandy have exerted influence down the centuries in matters of both faith and The Abbey of Jumi€ges politics. King Henry II of England, did penance at the cathedral of Avranches on 21 May 1172 and was absolved from the censures incurred by the assassination of Thomas Becket. Mont Saint-Michel is a historic pilgrimage site. Normandy does not have one generally agreed patron saint, although this title has been ascribed to Saint Michael, and to Saint Ouen. Many saints have been revered in Normandy down the centuries, including: „ „ „ „ Aubert who's remembered as the founder of Mont Saint-Michel Marcouf and Laud who are important saints in Normandy Helier and Samson of Dol who are evangelizers of the Channel Islands Thomas Becket, an Anglo-Norman whose parents were from Rouen, who was the object of a considerable cult in mainland Normandy following his martyrdom „ Joan of Arc who was martyred in Rouen, and who is especially remembered in that city „ Th‚r€se de Lisieux whose birthplace in Alen…on and later home in Lisieux are a focus for religious pilgrims. „ Germanus of Normandy People from Normandy See Category:People from Normandy Gallery William the Conqueror, the Bayeux Tapestry Normandy 61 Mont Saint-Michel in Normandy.‘ Rouen Cathedral by Claude Monet World War II German gun in Normandy.‘ Pegasus Bridge Normandy 62 Ch‰teau Gaillard Honfleur Le Havre Arromanches, Mulberry Harbour Port Racine‘ Normandy 63 Half-timbered houses in Rouen Saint-Cen‚ri Le Gerei‘ Mont-Saint-Michel Mont-Saint-Michel Normandy 64 Field covered by snow in Normandy‘ References [1] Administrative Normandy (http:/ / 195. 7. 104. 1/ normandy/ gb/ 01bienv/ index. html) [2] Houses and properties for sale (http:/ / normandyproperty. com/ ). Normandy Property. Retrieved on 2013-09-19. [3] Normandie, Bonneton, Paris 2001 ISBN 2-86253-272-X [4] L‚‚tat des r‚gions fran…aises 2004, page 189 [5] INSEE, Emploi-ChŒmage (http:/ / www. insee. fr/ fr/ regions/ basse-normandie/ default. asp?page=faitsetchiffres/ presentation/ presentation. htm#tab4) [6] "France in CIA factbook" [7] INSEE (http:/ / www. insee. fr/ fr/ insee_regions/ basse-normandie/ rfc/ chifcle_fiche. asp?nat=1& ref_id=CMRSOS08114& tab_id=481) [8] INSEE (http:/ / www. insee. fr/ fr/ insee_regions/ basse-normandie/ rfc/ chifcle_fiche. asp?nat=1& ref_id=CMRSOS03311& tab_id=476) [9] The Scandinavian Contribution in Normandy (http:/ / www. viking. no/ e/ france/ contribution. html) 14. http://www.thecanadianencyclopedia.com/articles/french-language#SEC820952 External links „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ (French) Normandie H‚ritage (http://www.normandie-heritage.com) The Norman Worlds (http://www.mondes-normands.caen.fr/angleterre/index.htm) Gallery of photos of Normandy (http://www.pbase.com/ericdeparis/normandie) New Normandy Commemorative Project Cauquigny (http://www.pararesearchteam.com/ Stained-Glass-Project/Cauquigny-Project.html) Normandy Regional Tourist Board (http://www.normandie-tourisme.fr/normandy-tourism-109-2.html) Official Normandy Tourist Board website containing information on all aspects of the region from history and culture to local transport and current events. A History of Normandy (http://bdaugherty.tripod.com/normandie/history.html) Contains a useful list of and detail about the rulers of Normandy TVNormanChannel (http://www.tvnc.tv/) WebTelevision of current events and history on Normandy, in English and French. Mount St. Michael, Storm on the Coast, Normandy, 1857 by D.J. Kennedy, Historical Society of Pennsylvania (http://digitallibrary.hsp.org/index.php/Detail/Object/Show/object_id/3868) „ Western France Tourist Board (http://www.westernfrancetouristboard.com/normandy.html) Languedoc 65 Languedoc For the language called Langue d'oc, see Occitan language. For the German/Italian wine grape also known as Languedoc, see Languedoc (grape). For the French wine grape also known as Languedoc, see Mondeuse noire. Languedoc Flag Coat of arms Country France Time zone CET Languedoc (/•l•¤‘‡’d•k/ ; French:‘[l•Ž‘.dŒk] ; Occitan: Lengad‘c [•le¤‘Œ’¥Œ]) is a former province of France, now continued in the modern-day r•gions of Languedoc-Roussillon and Midi-Pyr‚n‚es in the south of France, and whose capital city was Toulouse, now in Midi-Pyr‚n‚es. It had an area of approximately 27,376 square kilometers. Geographical extent The traditional provinces of the kingdom of France were not formally defined. A province was simply a territory of common traditions and customs, but it had no political organization. Today, when people refer to the old provinces of France, they actually refer to the gouvernements as they existed in 1789. Gouvernements were military regions established in the middle of the 16th century and whose territories closely matched those of the traditional provinces. However, in some cases, small provinces had been merged with a large one into a single gouvernement, so gouvernements are not exactly the same as the traditional provinces. Historically, the region was called the county of Toulouse, a county The gouvernement of Languedoc (including independent from the kings of France. The county of Toulouse was G‚vaudan, Velay, and Vivarais) among the made up of what would later be called Languedoc, but it also included former gouvernements of France. the province of Quercy (now d•partement of Lot and northern half of the d•partement of Tarn-et-Garonne) and the province of Rouergue (now d•partement of Aveyron), both to the northwest of Languedoc. At some times it even included the province of Agenais (now eastern half of the d•partement of Lot-et-Garonne) to the west of Languedoc, the province of G‚vaudan (now d•partement of Loz€re), the province of Velay (now the central and eastern part of the d•partement of Haute-Loire), the southern part of the province of Vivarais (now the southern part of the d•partement of Ard€che), and even all the northern half of Provence. After the French conquest the entire county was dismantled, the central Languedoc 66 part of it being now called Languedoc. The gouvernement of Languedoc was created in the middle of the 16th century. In addition to Languedoc proper, it also included the three small provinces of G‚vaudan, Velay, and Vivarais (in its entirety), these three provinces being to the northeast of Languedoc. Some people also consider that the region around Albi was a traditional province, called Albigeois (now d•partement of Tarn), although it is most often considered as being part of Languedoc proper. The provinces of Quercy and Rouergue, despite their old ties with Toulouse, were not incorporated into the gouvernement of Languedoc, instead being attached to the gouvernement of Guienne and its far-away capital Bordeaux. This decision was probably intentional, to avoid reviving the independently-spirited county of Toulouse. In the rest of the article, Languedoc refers to the territory of this gouvernement of Languedoc. Area and location of Languedoc The province of Languedoc covered an area of approximately 42,700‘km• (16,490 sq. miles) in the central part of southern France, roughly the region between the RhŒne River (border with Provence) and the Garonne River (border with Gascony), extending northwards to the C‚vennes and the Massif Central (border with Auvergne). Old administrative structures and the question of the capital city of Languedoc The governors of Languedoc resided in P‚zenas, on the Mediterranean coast, away from Toulouse but close to Montpellier. In time they had increased their power well beyond military matters, and had become the real administrators and executive power of the province, a trend seen in the other gouvernements of France, but particularly acute in Languedoc, where the duke of Montmorency, governor of Languedoc, even openly rebelled against the king, then was defeated and beheaded in Toulouse in 1632 by the order of Richelieu. The kings of France became fearful of the power of the governors, so after King Louis XIV (the Sun King) they had to reside in Versailles and were forbidden to enter the territory of their gouvernement. Thus the gouvernements became hollow structures, but they still carried a sense of the old provinces, and so their names and limits have remained popular until today. For administrative purposes, Languedoc was divided in two g•n•ralit•s, the g•n•ralit• of Toulouse and the g•n•ralit• of Montpellier, the combined territory of the two generalities exactly matching that of the gouvernement of Languedoc. At the head of a generality was an intendant, but in the case of Languedoc there was only one intendant responsible for both generalities, and he was often referred to as the intendant of Languedoc, even though technically speaking he was in fact the intendant of the generality of Toulouse and intendant of the generality of Montpellier. The generality of Toulouse is also referred to as Upper Languedoc (Haut-Languedoc), while the generality of Montpellier, down to the level of the sea, is referred to as Lower Languedoc (Bas-Languedoc). The intendants of Languedoc resided in Montpellier, and they had a sub-delegate in Toulouse. Montpellier was chosen on purpose to diminish the power of Toulouse, whose parlement was very influential, and which symbolized the old spirit of independence of the county of Toulouse. The intendants replaced the governors as administrators of Languedoc, but appointed and dismissed at will by the king, they were no threat to the central Saint-Sernin Basilica in Toulouse, displaying the typical pink brick architecture of Upper Languedoc. state in Versailles. By 1789 they were the most important element of the local administration of the kingdom. Languedoc For judicial and legislative matters, Languedoc was overseen by the Parlement of Toulouse, founded in the middle of the 15th century. It was the first parlement created outside of Paris by the kings of France in order to be the equivalent of the Parlement of Paris in the far-away southern territories of the kingdom. The jurisdiction of the Parlement of Toulouse included the whole of the territory of the gouvernement of Languedoc, but it also included the province of Rouergue, most of the province of Quercy, and a part of Gascony. The Parlement of Toulouse was the supreme court of justice for this vast area of France, the court of last resort whose rulings could not be appealed, not even to the Parlement of Paris. The Parlement of Toulouse could also create case law through its decisions, as well as interpret the law. It was also in charge of registering new royal edicts and laws, and could decide to block them if it found them to be in contravention with the liberties and laws of Languedoc. Finally, for purposes of taxation, Languedoc was ruled by the States of Languedoc, whose jurisdiction included only Languedoc proper (and Albigeois), but not G‚vaudan, Velay, and Vivarais, which kept each their own provincial states until 1789. Languedoc proper was one of the very few provinces of France which had the privilege to decide over tax matters, the kings of France having suppressed the provincial states in most other provinces of the kingdom. This was a special favor from the kings to ensure that an independently-spirited region far-away from Versailles would remain faithful to the central state. The States of Languedoc met in many different cities, and for some time they established themselves in P‚zenas, but in the 18th century they were relocated definitively to Montpellier, where they met once a year, until 1789. For religious purposes, Languedoc was also divided into a certain number of ecclesiastical provinces, which had great importance at the time, but are less relevant to this article. Resulting from this intricate entanglement of administrations and jurisdictions so typical of France before the French Revolution, it is hard to say which city was the capital city of Languedoc. Toulouse and Montpellier both often claim to be the capital of Languedoc. As a matter of fact, in the 18th century the monarchy clearly favored Montpellier, a city much smaller than Toulouse, and with less history and memories attached to it than the ancient metropolis of Toulouse, of which the kings of France were always fearful. However, most people consider that Toulouse is the real capital city of the province of Languedoc, due to its old status as center of the county of Toulouse, and due to the mighty power of its parlement. On maps (both ancient and modern) showing the provinces of France in 1789 (in fact the gouvernements as was explained above), Toulouse is always marked as the capital city of Languedoc. Modern administrative divisions The province of Languedoc has been divided between four modern-day r•gions: „ 55.5% of its former territory lies in the Languedoc-Roussillon r•gion, capital city Montpellier, covering the d‚partements of Gard, H‚rault, Aude, Loz€re, and the extreme-north of Pyr‚n‚es-Orientales, which account for 86.5% of the territory of Languedoc-Roussillon. The remaining 13.5% is Roussillon (Pyr‚n‚es-Orientales), a province which was never part of Languedoc historically. „ 24.8% of its former territory lies in the Midi-Pyr‚n‚es r•gion, capital city Toulouse, covering the d•partement of Tarn, as well as the eastern half of Haute-Garonne, the southeast of Tarn-et-Garonne, and the northwest and northeast of Ari€ge, which account for 23.4% of the territory of Midi-Pyr‚n‚es. The remaining 76.6% is made of Quercy and Rouergue (of which was talked above), as well as the province of County of Foix (which had been a vassal of the county of Toulouse in the Middle Ages), several small provinces of the Pyr‚n‚es mountains, and a large part of Gascony. „ 13% lies in the RhŒne-Alpes r•gion, covering the d•partement of Ard€che, which accounts for 12.7% of the territory of RhŒne-Alpes „ 6.7% lies in the Auvergne r•gion, covering the central and eastern part of the d•partement of Haute-Loire, which account for 11% of the territory of modern-day Auvergne r•gion 67 Languedoc 68 Population and cities On the traditional territory of the province of Languedoc there live approximately 3,650,000 people (as of 1999 census), 52% of these in the Languedoc-Roussillon r•gion, 35% in the Midi-Pyr‚n‚es r•gion, 8% in the RhŒne-Alpes r•gion, and 5% in the Auvergne r•gion. The territory of the former province shows a stark contrast between some densely populated areas (coastal plains as well as metropolitan area of Toulouse in the interior) where density is between 150 inhabitants per km•/390 inh. per sq. mile (coastal plains) and 300 inh. per km•/780 inh. per sq. mile (plain of Toulouse), and the hilly and mountainous interior where density is extremely low, the C‚vennes Typical view of the mountainous C‚vennes area in the thinly-populated interior of Languedoc: plateaus (the Causses) with deep river canyons area in the south of Loz€re having one of the lowest densities of Europe with only 7.4 inhabitants per km• (19 inh. per sq. mile). The five largest metropolitan areas on the territory of the former province of Languedoc are (as of 1999 census): Toulouse (964,797), Montpellier (459,916), N‹mes (221,455), B‚ziers (124,967), and Al€s (89,390). The population of the former province of Languedoc is currently the fastest-growing in France, and also among the fastest-growing in Europe, as an increasing flow of people from northern France and the north of Europe relocating to the sunbelt of Europe, in which Languedoc is located. Growth is particularly strong in the metropolitan areas of Toulouse and Montpellier, which are the two fastest growing metropolitan areas in Europe at the moment. However, the interior of Languedoc is still losing inhabitants, which increases the difference of density that was mentioned. Population of the coast of Languedoc as well as the region of Toulouse is rather young, educated, and affluent, whereas in the interior the population tends to be much older, with significantly lower incomes, and with a lower percentage of high school and especially college graduates. Economy Agriculture Languedoc is a significant producer of wine, and a major contributor to the surplus known as the "wine lake". Today it produces more than a third of the grapes in France, and is a focus for outside investors. Wines from the Mediterranean coast of Languedoc are labeled as Languedoc, those from the interior have other labels such as Fronton, Gaillac, or Limoux to the west • and CŒtes du RhŒne towards east. Other crops include wheat (the traditional crop which made the fortune of the landlords and parliamentarians based in Toulouse, and for whose trade the famous Canal du Midi was built), maize (the new and nowadays most popular crop in the region), olives (only on the Mediterranean coast of Languedoc), fruit, and rice (in some coastal areas). In the hilly and mountainous areas of the interior, sheep and goat are raised for meat and cheese. The coastal area is, naturally, a source of fish and shellfish. Languedoc 69 Industry Aerospace (Airbus, EADS, CNES, etc.), electronics (Motorola, etc.), and bio-tech industries in Toulouse; high-tech, electronics, and computer (IBM) industries in Montpellier; pharmaceutical industry (Pierre Fabre Group) in Castres. There is also a significant chemical sector in Toulouse, which has been quite battered since the terrible explosion of AZF on 21 September 2001. It has been decided that chemical industries would be moved out of Toulouse, and a large campus devoted to cancer research and bio-tech R&D will be opened on the site. The first completed Airbus A380 at the "A380 Reveal" event on 18 January 2005 in Toulouse, home base of the European aerospace industry. Elsewhere in the region industries are small and in decline, in particular around the formerly mining areas of Al€s and Carmaux in the interior of the region. Services and tourism Services are the largest sector of the economy in the region. In particular, government services employ a significant part of the workforce, especially in small towns. Key administrations have been relocated to the region, such as France's National Meteorology Office (M‚t‚o-France) relocated from Paris to Toulouse in 1982. The area is also a major tourist destination. There exists three types of tourism. First, a massive summer tourism industry on the coast, with huge sea resorts such as Cap d'Agde, Palavas-les-Flots, or Le Grau-du-Roi, built in the 1970s. Tourism related to history and art is also strong, as the region contains the historic cities of Carcassonne, Toulouse, Montpellier, countless Roman monuments (such as the Roman arenas in N‹mes), medieval abbeys, Romanesque churches, and old castles (such as the ruined Cathar castles in the mountains of Corbi€res, testimony of the bloody Albigensian Crusade). More recently, "green" and sports tourism is on the rise, with the gorges of the Tarn River, the Ard€che Gorges, as well as the vast preserved expanses of C‚vennes, Ard€che, Lauragais, and other sites. Tourism on the Canal du Midi combines history (for example viewing the nine locks of Fonseranes near B‚ziers) with activities such as boating on the Canal, and walking or cycling on the towpaths. Toulouse and Montpellier are also popular places for business congresses and conventions. Sports Rugby union is the "national" sport in Languedoc, unlike most other parts of France where football is more popular. The Toulouse rugby club (Stade Toulousain) is one of most successful in Europe; it regularly competes for the French championship and has won four European titles (1996, 2003,2005 and 2010) in the ten years of the European championship's existence. Bullfighting and other bull-related events are popular in the eastern part of Languedoc. Sea jousts (Joutes nautiques) are held on the coast. Dating from the 11th century, this sport has local leagues and attracts large crowds. Languedoc 70 Property Property in the Languedoc is quite varied and ranges from beautiful newly built villas with swimming pools and tennis courts, to rambling old village houses set into the old ramparts of ancient fortified towns. Some of these village houses date back a very long time. A small house in the village of Magalas, H‚rault d•partement, has a date of 13th century carved into its stonework. Being a large area, the type of property available in Languedoc varies a lot, from apartments in beach resorts such as Cap D'Agde to isolated bastides in the rural interior. References „ Languedoc-Roussillon Tourist Board [1] Official Tourism Website for the Region (in English) „ The Canal du Midi at B‚ziers [2] Official B‚ziers Website (in English) „ (French) The Languedoc-Roussillon [3] Official Site of the R‚gion. [4] „ The H‚rault tourist board website Department of H‚rault in Languedoc R‚gion. All informations to discover H‚rault and to book your holidays in Languedoc. Free brochures and lodging. The Rue de la pousterle in Magalas „ An introduction to the Languedoc for tourists [5] including regional overview and main tourist attractions. „ (French) Atlas historique de la province de Languedoc, de l'‚poque romaine ‡ nos jours [6], by •lie P‚laquier, CNRS. „ The Languedoc and Roussillon [7] history, geography, climate, cities, towns and historic monuments. „ http://congenies.canalblog.com quakers end Methodists since 18 th century Coordinates: 43Ž40‹N 3Ž10‹E [8] References [1] http:/ / www. sunfrance. net/ UK/ [2] http:/ / www. beziers-tourisme. fr/ [3] http:/ / www. cr-languedocroussillon. fr/ [4] http:/ / www. herault-tourisme. com/ [5] http:/ / about-france. com/ regions/ languedoc. htm [6] http:/ / recherche. univ-montp3. fr/ crises/ index. php?option=com_content& task=view& id=309& Itemid=1 [7] http:/ / midi-france. info/ [8] http:/ / tools. wmflabs. org/ geohack/ geohack. php?pagename=Languedoc& params=43_40_N_3_10_E_region:FR_type:adm1st Dauphin‚ 71 Dauphin€ Dauphin€ Flag Coat of arms Country France Time zone CET The Dauphin€ (pronounced:‘[dofine]) or Dauphin€ Viennois[1] is a former province in southeastern France, whose area roughly corresponded to that of the present departments of Is€re, DrŒme, and Hautes-Alpes. The Dauphin‚ (also historically called the Dauphiny in English) was originally the County of Albon, but the counts took the title Dauphin, from which the region gets its name. It was a state of the Holy Roman Empire, although after 1349 it was ruled by the King of France, and often by his heir, with the title of Dauphin. It remained an imperial state until the French Revolution, but after 1457 it was controlled by the French crown without outside interference or internal autonomy. The historical capital is Grenoble and the other main towns are Vienne, Valence, Mont‚limar, Gap and Romans-sur-Is€re. Its inhabitants are called Dauphinois. Le Dauphin• Lib•r• is a famous regional French newspaper, and organized the Crit‚rium du Dauphin‚ Lib‚r‚ (now known as the Crit‚rium du Dauphin‚) cycle stage race prior to 2010. Geography Under the Ancien R‚gime, the province was bordered in the North by the River RhŒne which separated the Dauphin‚ from the Bresse ("BrŠsse") and Bugey ("BugŠ"). To the east it bordered the Savoy and Piedmont, and to the south the Comtat Venaissin and Provence. The western border was marked by the RhŒne to the south of Lyon. The Dauphin‚ extended up to what is now the centre of Lyon. It was divided into the "High Dauphin‚" and "Low Dauphin‚". The first covered: „ the Gr‚sivaudan „ the Royans „ the Champsaur „ the Tri€ves Massif du Vercors Dauphin‚ 72 „ the Brian…onnais „ the Queyras „ the Embrunais „ the Gapen…ais „ the D‚voluy „ the Vercors „ the Bochaine „ the Baronnies The second included: La Meije, 3,983 meters „ the County of Albon with the Viennois around the city of Vienne, annexed in 1450 and the Turripinois around the city of La Tour-du-Pin. „ the County of Valentinois with the city of Valence, annexed in 1404 „ the County of Diois, around the episcopal city of Die, also annexed in 1404 „ the Tricastin „ the Principality of Orange annexed to Dauphin‚, (in 1793 it was included in the Vaucluse) The province also included the current Italian Dauphin‚, which belonged to France and to Brian…onnais until 1713. Vivaro-Alpine dialect was still spoken there until the 20th century: Proven…al DrŒme „ the Oulx valley „ the Pragela (Pragelato et Val Chisone) „ the Castelade de Ch‰teaudauphin (Casteldelfino in Italian). The province offers a range of terrain, from the alpine summits of the High-Dauphin‚ (the Barre des Ecrins is 4,102 meters at its highest point), the Prealps (Vercors and Chartreuse), and the plains of the DrŒme, which resemble the landscapes of Provence. History Dauphin‚ 73 Classical Antiquity and The Middle Ages Roman rule and the early Middle Ages The area of the future Dauphin‚ was inhabited by the Allobroges and other Gaulish tribes in ancient times. The region was conquered by the Romans before Gallia conquest by Julius Caesar. Vienne became a Roman colony and one of the most important cities of Gallia. After the end of the Western Roman Empire, the region suffered from invasions of Visigoths and Alans tribes. The Burgundians settled in Vienne.[2] After the Treaty of Verdun in 843, the region became part of the kingdom of Lotharingia. However, the King of France Charles the Bald soon claimed authority over this territory. Map of the Kingdom of Arelat The governor of Vienne, Boson of Provence, proclaimed himself king of Burgundy and the region became part of [3] the Kingdom of Arelat, which remained independent until 1032, when it became part of the Holy Roman Empire. At that time, the development of feudal society and the weakness of the Emperor's rule allowed for the creation of several small ecclesiastic or secularist States (the region of Viennois, for example, was under the rule of the archbishop of Vienne). In the middle of that chaos, the Counts of Albon succeeded in uniting these different territories under their rule.[4] The independent state (1040•1349) Main article: List of Counts of Albon and Dauphins of Viennois Amidst the chaos of feudal rule, the Counts of Albon began to rise above other feudal lords and acquire dominance over the region. Their story begins with Guigues I the Old (died 1070), Lord of Annonay and Champsaur. During his reign, he gained significant territories for his province: a part of the Viennois, the Gr‚sivaudan and the Oisans. Moreover, the Emperor gave him the region of Brian…on. The territories combined under his personal rule became a sovereign mountain principality within the Holy Roman Empire. The count made a significant decision when[5] he chose the small city of Grenoble as capital of his state instead of the prestigious city of Vienne, which was the long-established seat of a powerful bishop. This choice allowed him to assert authority over all his territories. Coat of arms of Dauphin‚ before 1349 In the 12th century, the local ruler Count Guigues IV of Albon (c.1095•1142) bore a dolphin on his coat of arms and was nicknamed le Dauphin (French for dolphin). His descendants changed their title from Count of Albon to Dauphin of Viennois. The state took the name of Dauphin‚. However, the Dauphin‚ did not, at this point, have its modern borders. The region of Vienne and Valence were independent and even in Grenoble, the capital, the authority was shared with the bishop. Furthermore, the cities of Voiron and la CŒte-Saint-Andr‚ were parts of the County of Savoy, while the Dauphins had the Faucigny and territories in Italy. This tangle between Dauphin‚ and Savoy resulted in several conflicts. The last Dauphin, Humbert II of Viennois, made peace with his neighbour. He also acquired the city of Romans. He finally created the Conseil Delphinal and the University of Grenoble and enacted the Delphinal Status, a kind of constitution that protected the Dauphin‚ 74 rights of his people. Union with France (1349) The significant debts of Humbert II and the death of his son and heir led to the sale of his lordship to King Philip VI in 1349, by the terms of the treaty of Romans, negotiated by his protonotary, Amblard de Beaumont. A major condition was that the heir to the throne of France would be known as le Dauphin, which was the case from that time until the French Revolution; the first Dauphin de France was Philippe's grandson, the future Charles V of France. The title[6] also conferred an appanage on the region. Charles V spent nine months in his new territory. Humbert's agreement further stipulated that Dauphin‚ would be exempted from many taxes (like the gabelle); this statute was the subject of much subsequent parliamentary debate at the regional level, as local leaders sought to defend this regional autonomy and privilege from the state's assaults. Hundred Years' War and Louis XI's rule The nobility of the Dauphin‚ took part in the battles of Poitiers (1356) and Agincourt (1415). The province was also the setting for military events during the war. The Duke of Savoy and the Prince of Orange, with the help of the English and Burgundians authorities, planned to invade the Dauphin‚, but at the battle of Anthon in 1430, the army of the Principality of Orange was defeated by the troops of the Dauphin‚, preventing the invasion. Louis XI was the only Dauphin of France to administer his territory, from 1447 to 1456. It was during his reign as Dauphin that the Dauphin‚ became totally integrated into France. At that time, it was an anarchic state, with conflicts [7] between nobles still common. Louis XI prohibited these conflicts and forced the nobles to recognize his authority. The Conseil Delphinal became the third Parlement of France. Moreover, Louis XI politically united the Dauphin‚. He forced the archbishop of Vienne, the bishop of Grenoble and the Abbot of Romans all to pledge allegiance to him. He also acquired Mont‚limar and the Principality of Orange. In addition, he developed the economy of the province, by constructing roads and authorizing markets. He finally created the University of Valence founded 26 July 1452, by letters patent. Nevertheless, he also tried to institute the gabelle without referring the issue to the estates of the province, resulting in discontent on the part of the nobility and the people of the province. Because of his opposition to his father, Charles VII, he was forced to leave the Dauphin‚. The King took back the control of the province and forced the Estates to pledge allegiance in 1457, putting an end to the autonomy of [8] Dauphin‚. Dauphin‚ 75 Modern History Time of troubles During the Italian Wars (1494•1559), French troops were quartered in Dauphin‚. Charles VIII, Louis XII and Francis I stayed often in Grenoble, but the people of the province suffered the exactions of the soldiers. Moreover, the nobility of the region took part in the different battles (Marignano, Pavia) and gained an immense prestige.[9] The best-known of its members was Pierre Terrail de Bayard, "the knight without fear and beyond reproach". The province suffered from the French Wars of Religion (1562•98) between Catholics and Protestants at the end of the 16th century. The Dauphin‚ was a center of Protestantism in France, in cities such as Gap, Die, and La Mure. Fran…ois de Beaumont, the Huguenot leader, became famous for his cruelty and his destructions. The cruel execution of Charles du Puy-Montbrun, leader of the Protestants, by the king of France, led to more violence and struggles between the two parties. Fran…ois de Bonne, duc de Lesdigui€res In 1575, Lesdigui€res became the new leader of the Protestants and obtained several territories in the province. After the accession of Henry IV to the throne of France, Lesdigui€res allied with the governor and the lieutenant general of Dauphin‚. However, this alliance did not put an end to the conflicts. Indeed, a Catholic movement, la Ligue, which took Grenoble in 1590, refused to make peace. After months of assaults, Lesdigui€res defeated the Ligue and took back Grenoble. He [10] became the leader of the entire province. Administration of Lesdiguiƒres (1591•1626) Dauphin‚ circa 1638 The conflicts were over, but Dauphin‚ was destroyed and its people exhausted. The enactment of the Edict of Nantes (1598) restored some civil rights to the Huguenots and brought peace for a short time, but the wars resumed soon afterward. Lesdigui€res defeated the army of Savoy several times and helped the reconstruction of the region. His most famous construction is the Palace of Vizille, built for his personal use. The last meeting of the Estates of Dauphin‚ took place in 1628. It symbolizes the end of the liberty of the province. From that time, the important decisions were taken by the representatives of the king. It shows the progress of Absolutism. The Day of the Tiles From Louis XIV to the French Revolution The revocation of the Edict of Nantes by Louis XIV in 1685 caused the departure of 20,000 Protestants from Dauphin‚, weakening the economy of the province. Some valleys lost half of their inhabitants.[11] In 1692, during the Nine Years' War, the Duke of Savoy invaded the Dauphin‚. Gap and Embrun were badly damaged. But the Savoy armies were defeated by Philis de la Charce. Dauphin‚ In 1713, the Treaty of Utrecht changed the borders of Dauphin‚. The province gained the town of Barcelonette but lost the major part of the Brian…onnais. The 18th century was a period of economic prosperity for the region, with the development of the industry (glove-making in Grenoble, silk mills in the RhŒne valley). Important trade shows also occurred at Grenoble or Beaucroissant. In 1787, the province was one of the first to demand the meeting of the Estates General of France. The turning point occurred in 1788 with the Day of the Tiles. The King ordered the expulsion of the parliamentarians from Grenoble. But the economy of the city was dependent on its Parliament. As a result, the people attacked the royal troops to prevent the expulsion of the magistrates. This event allowed the sitting of the Assembly of Vizille, which instigated the meeting of the old Estates General, thus beginning the Revolution. Contemporary History Revolutionary period and Empire During the French Revolution, Dauphin‚ was highly represented in Paris by two illustrious notables from Grenoble, Jean Joseph Mounier and Antoine Barnave. In 1790, Dauphin‚ was divided in three departments, the current Is€re, DrŒme, and Hautes-Alpes. The approval of the establishment of the Empire was clear and overwhelming (in Is€re, the results showed 82,084 yes and only 12 no).[12] In 1813, Dauphin‚ was under the threat of the Austrian army which had invaded Switzerland and Savoy. After having resisted at Fort Barraux, the French troops withdrew to Grenoble. The city, well-defended, contained the Austrian attacks, and the French army defeated the Austrians, forcing them to withdraw at Geneva. But the invasion of France in 1814 resulted in the capitulation of the troops in Dauphin‚. During his return from the island of Elba in 1815, the Emperor was welcomed by the people in the region. At Laffrey, he met the royalist 5th Infantry Regiment of Louis XVIII. Napoleon stepped towards the soldiers and said those famous words: "If there is among you a soldier who wants to kill his Emperor, here I am." The men all joined his Statue of Napoleon at Laffrey cause. Napoleon was then acclaimed at Grenoble. After the defeat at Waterloo, the region suffered from a new invasion of Austrian and Sardinian troops. 19th century This century corresponds to a significant industrial development of Dauphin‚, particularly in the region of Grenoble (glove-making reached its Golden Age at that time) and the Rhone Valley (silk mills). The shoemaking industry also developed in Romans. During the Second Empire, the Dauphin‚ saw the construction of its railway network (the first trains arrived at Valence in 1854 and Grenoble in 1858). The driving of new roads in the Vercors and Chartreuse ranges allowed the beginning of tourism in the province. Moreover, several notable persons such as Queen Victoria came in the region with the success of thermal stations such as Uriage-les-Bains. In 1869, Aristide Berges played a major role in industrializing hydroelectricity production. With the development of his paper mills, industrial development spread to the mountainous region of Dauphin‚. 76 Dauphin‚ 77 20th century During the Belle Epoque, the region benefited from major transformations thanks to its economic growth. The Romanche Valley became one of the most important industrial valleys of the country.[13] World War I accelerated that trend. Indeed, in order to sustain the war efforts, new hydroelectric industries settled next to different rivers of the region. Several other businesses moved into armament industries. Chemical companies also settled in the region of Grenoble and near Roussillon in the Rhone Valley. Gate of the International Exhibition of Hydropower and Tourism exposition The textile industry of Dauphin‚ also benefited from the war. The occupation of northern France resulted in the settlement of many textile enterprises in the region. Vienne for instance produced one fifth of the national production of sheets for the army in 1915.[14] Several Alpine troops, the Chasseurs Alpins, were killed at war. They were nicknamed the "Blue Devils" for their courage on the field. The economic development of the region was highlighted by the organisation at Grenoble of the International Exposition of the "Houille Blanche" in 1925, visited by thousands of people. The interwar period was also characterized by the beginning of the winter sports in Dauphin‚. The ski resort of l'Alpe d'Huez was constructed in 1936, and Jean Pomagalski created there the first platter lift in the world. In World War II, during the Italian invasion of France, the Chasseurs Alpins contained the Italian troops, preventing an invasion of the region. But the German victories in northern France quickly threatened the troops in Dauphin‚. The Nazis were stopped near Grenoble, at Voreppe. The French forces resisted until the armistice. The Dauphin‚ was then part of the French State, before being occupied by the Italians from 1942 to 1943, when the German occupied southern France. Due to its mountainous character, Dauphin‚ was the seat of strong partisan activity. The best known was the Maquis du Vercors. In 1944, its members suffered from German attacks. The martyr village of Flag of the Free Republic of Vercors proclaimed in 1944 Vassieux as well as Grenoble were made Compagnon de la Lib‚ration by General Charles de Gaulle, to underline [15] their actions against the Nazis. In 1968, Grenoble welcomed the Xth Olympic Winter Games, allowing a major transformation of the city, the development of infrastructure (airport, motorways, etc.) and new ski resorts (Chamrousse, Les Deux Alpes, Villard-de-Lans, etc.). Dauphin‚ 78 Demography The various territories of Dauphin‚ experienced diverging demographic evolutions. Although the plains of Low Dauphin‚ and the big cities saw a strong increase in population during the 20th century (thanks to the industrial development and immigrant workers' arrival), the mountainous regions of High-Dauphin‚ suffered from a pronounced exodus. These days, the entire territory is experiencing population growth because of economic development and tourism. Demographic evolution of the Dauphin€ and its departments since 1801 Territoire 1975 1999 2006 297,000 275,280 361,847 437,657 468,608 Haute-Alpes department 112,500 132,000 109,510 85,067 121,338 133,000 Is€re department 413,109 578,000 544,000 587,975 860,339 Dauphin‚ 760,966 1,037,000 950,510 948,322 1,319,544 1,651,773 1,771,263 DrŒme department 1801 1851 235,357 327,000 1901 1954 97,358 1,092,778 1,169,655 Source : INSEE There were a relative stability of the population of Dauphin‚ until the mid-20th century, when the growth became extremely stronger. It must be reminded nonetheless that several cities of northern Dauphin‚ (Villeurbanne, V‚nissieux, Bron and many others) had been included in the department of RhŒne. These cities represented in 1999 more than 460,000 inhabitants. Histogram of the evolution since 1801: Dauphin‚ has a population density of 90.78/km•, with a very clear differentiation between Is€re (159/km•) and Hautes-Alpes (23/km•). Grenoble concentrates around the third of the population of Dauphin‚. Valence is now the second big Dauphin‚ metropolis. Dauphin‚ also benefits from an important network of mid-sized cities covering all the territory (Vienne, Mont‚limar, Gap, etc.). The aires urbaines of Dauphin‚ are:[16] Valence Dauphin‚ 79 Grenoble Vienne Brian…on Aire urbaine Population (1999) 1 Grenoble 514,559 2 Valence 167,155 3 Romans-sur-Is€re 65,933 4 Mont‚limar 58,557 5 Vienne 53,843 6 Gap 44,773 7 Voiron 44,226 8 Roussillon 40,002 9 Bourgoin-Jallieu 35,952 Dauphin‚ 80 10 Brian…on 17,023 11 Livron-sur-DrŒme 15,711 Gastronomy Dauphin‚ is famous for some culinary specialities: „ the gratin dauphinois „ the pommes dauphines „ the Saint-Marcellin „ the Saint-F‚licien „ the Picodon [17] „ the Bleu du Vercors-Sassenage (auparavant bleu de Sassenage) „ the Nougat de Mont‚limar Gratin dauphinois „ the Coteaux du Tricastin „ the clairette de Die „ the Chartreuse (verte, jaune, etc.) „ the crozes-hermitage „ the Hermitage Further reading „ Pfeiffer, Thomas, Le Br’leur de loups, Lyon, Bellier, 2004. „ F‚lix Vernay, Petite Histoire du Dauphin•, 1933. External links „ (French) Les Pays du Lyonnais-Dauphin‚ [18] Notes Green Chartreuse [1] The archaic is seen in documents. [2] Petite histoire du Dauphin• , F‚lix Vernay, 1933, p22 [3] Petite Histoire‚, F‚lix Vernay, 1933, p24 [4] Petite histoire‚ , F‚lix Vernaix, 1933, p25 [5] F‚lix Vernay, Petite histoire du Dauphin•, 1933, p9 [6] The Crown of France also absorbed Humbert's other titles: prince du Brian…onnais, duc de Champsaur, marquis de C‚zanne, comte de Vienne, d'Albon, de Gr‚sivaudan, d'Embrun et de Gapen…ais, baron palatine of La Tour, La Valbonne, Montauban and M‚vouillon. [7] Georges Bordonove, Les Valois, 2007, p1045 [8] F‚lix Vernay, Petite histoire du Dauphin•€€, 1933, p58 [9] Petite histoire du Dauphin•€€, F•lix Vernay, 1933, p78 [10] Petite Histoire du Dauphin• , F‚lix Vernay, 1933, p88 [11] Petie Histoire‚, F‚lix Vernay, 1933, p97 [12] Petite Histoire du Dauphin•, F‚lix Vernay, 1933,p115 [13] L€histoire de l'Isƒre en BD, Tome 5, Gilbert Bouchard, 2004, p40 [14] L€histoire de l'Isƒre en BD, Tome 5, Gilbert Bouchard, 2004, p42 [15] Ordredelaliberation.fr (http:/ / www. ordredelaliberation. fr/ us_doc/ 4_2_commune. html) [16] Insee • Populations l‚gales 2006 (http:/ / www. insee. fr/ fr/ ppp/ bases-de-donnees/ recensement/ populations-legales/ ) [17] Francefromages.com (http:/ / www. francefromages. com/ m3_fiche. asp?IdFromage=150) Dauphin‚ 81 [18] http:/ / chateau-de-lyon. forumactif. com/ hrp-lecture-f172/ les-pays-du-lyonnais-dauphine-t15614. htm Coordinates: 45Ž23‹N 5Ž44‹E (http:/ / tools. wmflabs. org/ geohack/ geohack. php?pagename=Dauphin¦§& params=45_23_N_5_44_E_type:landmark_source:kolossus-cswiki) Burgundy For other uses, see Burgundy (disambiguation). "Bourgogne" redirects here. For other uses, see Bourgogne (disambiguation). Burgundy Bourgogne Region of France Country Prefecture ‘France Dijon Departments Government ‚€‚President Fran…ois Patriat (PS) Area ‚€‚Total 2 31,582‘km (12,194‘sq‘mi) Population (2008-01-01) ‚€‚Total 1,631,000 ‚€‚Density 52/km (130/sq‘mi) Time zone CET (UTC+1) 2 ‚€‚Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) ISO 3166 code FR-D GDP‚(2012) Ranked 16th Total ƒ42.7 billion (US$55.0 bn) Per capita ƒ25,996 (US$33,436) NUTS Region FR2 Website cr-bourgogne.fr [1] Burgundy (French: Bourgogne, IPA:‘[bu†.‘Œˆ]‘( )) is an administrative and historical region of east-central France. Burgundy comprises the following four departments: CŒte-d'Or, SaŒne-et-Loire, Yonne and Ni€vre. Historically, "Burgundy" has referred to numerous political entities, including kingdoms and duchies spanning territory from the Mediterranean to Benelux. Burgundy 82 Name The name comes from the Burgundians, an ancient Germanic people originating in Bornholm who settled in the area during the early Middle Ages. The Old Norse name for Bornholm was Burgundaholmr. An example of an equivalent name in present-day Scandinavia is Borgund in Norway.Wikipedia:Citation needed History Main article: History of Burgundy Burgundy was inhabited in turn by Celts, Romans (Gallo-Romans), and in the 4th century, the Romans who were then allied with the Burgundians, a Germanic people possibly originating in Bornholm (Baltic Sea), who settled there and established their own kingdom. However, Agathias identifies Burgunds (“”•–”•—”•˜™”š) and Ultizurs as Bulgaric people of Hunnic circle tribes, near relatives of Turkic Cotrigurs and Utigurs.[2][3] This Burgundian kingdom was conquered in the 6th century by another Germanic tribe, the Franks who continued the kingdom of Burgundy under their own rule. Coat of arms of the second Duchy of Burgundy and later of the province Later, the region was divided between the Duchy of Burgundy (to the west) and the County of Burgundy (to the east). The Duchy of Burgundy is the better-known of the two, later becoming the French province of Burgundy, while the County of Burgundy became the French province of Franche-Comt‚, literally meaning free county. Burgundy's modern existence is rooted in the dissolution of the Frankish Empire. In the 880s, there were four Burgundies, which were the Kingdom of Upper and Lower Burgundy, the duchy and the county. During the Middle Ages, Burgundy was the seat of some of the most important Western churches and monasteries, among them Cluny, C‹teaux, and V‚zelay. During the Hundred Years' War, King John II of France gave the duchy to his youngest son, Philip the Bold. The duchy soon became a major rival to the crown. The court in Dijon outshone the French court both economically and culturally. In 1477, at the battle of Nancy during the Burgundian Wars, the last duke Charles the Bold was killed in battle, and the Duchy itself was annexed by France and became a province. However the northern part of the empire was taken by the Austrian Habsburgs With the French Revolution in the end of the 18th century, the administrative units of the provinces disappeared, but were reconstituted as regions during the Fifth Republic in the 1970s. The modern-day administrative r•gion comprises most of the former duchy. Burgundy 83 Geography The region of Burgundy is both larger than the old Duchy of Burgundy and smaller than the area ruled by the Dukes of Burgundy, from the modern Netherlands to the border of Auvergne. Today, Burgundy is made up of the following old provinces: „ Burgundy: CŒte-d'Or, SaŒne-et-Loire, and southern half of Yonne. This corresponds to the old duchy of Burgundy (later called province of Burgundy). However, the old county of Burgundy (later called province of Franche-Comt•) is not included inside the Burgundy region, but it makes up the Franche-Comt‚ region. Also, a small part of the duchy of Burgundy (province of Burgundy) is now inside the Champagne-Ardenne region. „ Nivernais: now the department of Ni€vre. „ the northern half of Yonne is a territory that was not part of Burgundy (at least not since the 11th century), and was a frontier between Champagne, le-de-France, and Orl‚anais, depending from each of these provinces at different times in history. Major communities „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ Autun Auxerre Beaune Chalon-sur-SaŒne Dijon Le Creusot M‰con Montceau-les-Mines Nevers Pr‚mery Sens Climate Chardonnay vineyards in the south of the CŒte de Beaune surrounding the town of Meursault. Arboretum de P‚zanin The climate of this region is essentially oceanic (Cfb in K¨ppen classification), with a continental influence (sometimes called a "half-continental climate"). Burgundy 84 Politics The regional council of Burgundy is the legislative assembly. Its seat is in the capital city Dijon, at 17 boulevard de la Tr‚mouille. Since 2004 the council is chaired by the Socialist Fran…ois Patriat. Culture Wine Main article: Burgundy wine Seat of the regional council of Burgundy in Dijon Burgundy is one of France's main wine producing areas. It is well known for both its red and white wines, mostly made from Pinot noir and Chardonnay grapes, respectively, although other grape varieties can be found, including Gamay, Aligote, Pinot blanc, and Sauvignon blanc. The region is divided into the CŒte-d'Or, where the most expensive and prized Burgundies are found, and Beaujolais, Chablis, the CŒte Chalonnaise and M‰con. The reputation and quality of the top wines, together with the fact that they are often produced in small quantities, has led to high demand and high prices, with some Burgundies ranking among the most expensive wines in the world. Cuisine Famous Burgundian dishes include coq au vin, beef bourguignon, and •poisses de Bourgogne cheese. Sites Some cultural sites include La roche de Solutr•, l'Arboretum de P•zanin (in Dompierre-les-Ormes), and V‚zelay Abbey. References [1] http:/ / www. cr-bourgogne. fr/ [2] Agathias, Histiriae, V,11,3•4 [3] Runciman S., A history of the First Bulgarian empire, London, G.Bell & Sons, 1930, p.7, & notes Further reading „ Burgundy, What a Story! by Bernard Lecomte and Jean-Louis Thouart (Ed. de Bourogne, 2004) ISBN 978-2-902650-02-6 „ Davies, Norman (2011), "Ch.3 : Burgundia: Five, Six or Seven Kingdoms (c. 411-1795)", Vanished Kingdoms: The History of Half-Forgotten Europe, London: Allan Lane, pp.‘85•150, ISBN‘978-0-141-04886-4 External links „ (English) Burgundy : history in the open air (http://www.france.fr/en/regions-and-cities/ burgundy-history-open-air)€Official French website „ (French) Burgundy statistics (http://www.insee.fr/fr/regions/bourgogne/) on INSEE website „ (French) Regional Council website (http://www.cr-bourgogne.fr) „ (English) Short guide to Burgundy (http://about-france.com/regions/burgundy.htm) with main tourist attractions Burgundy „ (English) Burgundy (http://www.dmoz.org/Regional/Europe/France/Regions/Burgundy) at DMOZ „ Burgundy in the 1913 Catholic Encyclopedia at BibleWiki (http://bible.tmtm.com/wiki/ Burgundvy_(Catholic_Encyclopedia)) „ Burgundy in the 1913 Catholic Encyclopedia at NewAdvent.org (http://www.newadvent.org/cathen/03068a. htm) Coordinates: 47Ž00‹N 4Ž30‹E (http:/ / tools. wmflabs. org/ geohack/ geohack. php?pagename=Burgundy& params=47_00_N_4_30_E_region:FR_type:adm1st) 85 Picardy 86 Picardy This article is about the French region. For other uses, see Picardy (disambiguation). Picardy Picardie Region of France Country ‘France Prefecture Amiens Departments Government ‚€‚President Claude Gewerc (PS) Area ‚€‚Total 2 19,399‘km (7,490‘sq‘mi) Population (2007-01-01) ‚€‚Total 1,890,000 ‚€‚Density 97/km (250/sq‘mi) Demonym Picards Time zone CET (UTC+1) 2 ‚€‚Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Picardy (French: Picardie, northern part of France. ISO 3166 code FR-S GDP‚(2012) Ranked 14th Total ƒ45.7 billion (US$58.8 bn) Per capita ƒ23,751 (US$30,548) NUTS Region FR2 Website cr-picardie.fr French pronunciation:‘ [1] [pi.ka†.di]) is one of the 27 regions of France. It is located in the Picardy 87 History The historical province of Picardy stretched from north of Noyon to Calais, via the whole of the Somme department and the north of the Aisne department. The province of Artois (Arras area) separated Picardy from French Flanders. Middle Ages In the 5th century the area was part of the Frankish Empire, and in the feudal period it encompassed the six countships of Boulogne, Montreuil, Ponthieu, Ami‚nois, Vermandois, and Laonnois.[2] The name "Picardy" (which may have referred to a Frankish tribe of picards or pike-bearers) was not used until the 12th or 13th century. The historical province of Picardy within modern During this time, the name applied to all lands where the Picard French borders language was spoken, which included all the territories from Paris to the Netherlands. In the Latin Quarter of Paris, people identified a "Picard Nation" (Nation Picarde) of students at Sorbonne University, most of whom actually came from Flanders.[3] Modern era In the 16th century, the government (military region) of Picardy was created. This became a new administrative region of France, separate from what was historically defined as Picardy. The new Picardy included the Somme d•partement, the northern half of the Aisne d•partement, and a small fringe in the north of the Oise d•partement. In the 17th century, an infectious disease similar to English sweat originated from the region and spread across France. It was called Suette des picards or Picardy sweat. Sugar beet was introduced by Napoleon I during the Napoleonic Wars in the 19th century, in order to counter the United Kingdom, which had seized the sugar islands possessed by France in the Caribbean. The sugar industry has continued to play a prominent role in the economy of the region. One of the most significant historical events to occur in Picardy was the series of battles fought along the Somme during World War I. From September 1914 to August 1918, four major battles, including the Battle of the Somme, were fought by British, French, and German forces in the fields of Northern Picardy. Picardy today In 2009, the Regional Committee for local government reform proposed to reduce the number of French regions and cancel additions of new regions in the near future. Picardy would have disappeared, and each department would have joined a nearby region. The Oise would have been incorporated in the le-de-France, the Somme would have been incorporated in the Nord-Pas-de-Calais and Aisne would have been incorporated in the Champagne-Ardenne. The vast majority of Picards were opposed to this proposal, and it was scrapped in 2010 (see newspaper: "Courrier Picard"). This painting by Pierre Puvis de Chavannes recalls the "Golden Age" in the history of the province of Picardy. The Walters Art Museum. Today, the modern region of Picardy no longer includes the coastline from Berck to Calais, via Boulogne (Boulonais), that is now in the Nord-Pas-de-Calais region, but does incorporate the pays of Beauvaisis, Valois, Noyonnais, Laonnois, Soissonnais, Omois, among other departments of France. The older definition of Picardy survives in the name of the Picard language, which applies not only to the dialects of Picardy 88 Picardy proper, but also to the Romance dialects spoken in the Nord-Pas de Calais r•gion, north of Picardy proper, and parts of the Belgian province of Hainaut. Geography Between the 1990 and 1999 censuses, the population of Oise increased 0.61% per year (almost twice as fast as France as a whole), while the Aisne department lost inhabitants, and the Somme barely grew with a 0.16% growth per year. Today, 41.3% of the population of Picardy live inside the Oise department. Picardy stretches from the long sand beaches of the Somme estuary in the west to the vast forests and pastures of the Landscape in Picardy with Champagne (Champagne picarde) to the south. Thi‚rache in the east and down to the chateaux of Chantilly or Pierrefonds near the Paris Area and vineyards of the border Picardy 89 Administration The president of the regional council is Claude Gewerc, a Socialist in office since 2004. That year he defeated longtime UDF incumbent Gilles de Robien. Since 2008, the mayor of the city of Amiens, the regional capital, has been Socialist Gilles Demailly. He defeated longtime mayor Gilles de Robien of the New Centre party. Language and culture Historically, the region of Picardy has a strong and proud cultural identity. The Picard (the local inhabitant and traditionally Picard language speakers) cultural heritage includes some of the most extraordinary Gothic churches (Amiens and Beauvais cathedrals or Saint-Quentin basilica), distinctive local cuisine (including ficelle picarde, flamiche aux poireaux, tarte au maroilles), beer (including from P‚ronne's de Clercq brewery) and traditional games and sports, such as the longue paume (ancestor of tennis), as well as danses picardes and its own bagpipes, called the pipasso. The villages of Picardy have a distinct character, with their houses made of red bricks, often accented with a "lace" of white bricks. A minority of people still speak the Picard language, one of the languages of France, which is also spoken in Artois (Nord-Pas de Calais r•gion). "P'tit quinquin", a Picard song, is a symbol of the local culture (and of that of Artois). Arts and architecture Distinctive brick building style demonstrated on a monument in Somme, Picardy Picardy is the birthplace of Gothic architecture, housing six of the world's greatest examples of Gothic cathedrals, which envelop the history of Gothic architecture in its entirety. Amiens Cathedral, standing as the largest cathedral in Europe, which according to John Ruskin is the "Pantheon of Gothic architecture", could house the Notre-Dame de Paris twice over. It was built in as little as 50 years. Picardy also holds the tallest transept in the history of the Gothic period located on Saint-Pierre cathedral in Beauvais, Oise. The Museum of Picardy, built between 1855 and 1867, houses a vast array of great works, spanning centuries. Archaeology from ancient Greece and Egypt to works of Pablo Picasso. The museum was built for the very reason it is used today. Although Picardy is one of the least-known regions in France, its influence from art and most certainly architecture is vivid throughout the world. Picardy 90 Major communities „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ Abbeville Amiens Beauvais Compi€gne Creil Laon Saint-Quentin Soissons Amiens In popular culture „ The song "Roses of Picardy" is a ballad written in 1916 during World War I. In 1927, the song title was used as the title of the silent British film of the same name. „ Picardy is one of the minor characters in the Japanese manga series Hetalia: Axis Powers. References [1] http:/ / www. cr-picardie. fr/ [2] Dunbabin.France in the Making. Ch.4. The Principalities 888•987 [3] Encyclop©dia Britannica Online. History of Picardy. External links „ (English) Picardy : the other north of France (http://www.france.fr/en/regions-and-cities/ picardy-other-north-france) - Official French website „ (French) Official regional council website (http://www.cr-picardie.fr/) „ (English) Picardy, brief guide to the region and attractions (http://about-france.com/regions/picardy.htm) „ (English) Pictures of Picardy (http://www.images-en-somme.net/en/) „ (English) photos from Southern Picardy (http://www.offrench.net/photos/gallery-10.php) „ (English) War Memorials in the Aisne region of Picardy „ (English) War Memorials in the Oise region of Picardy „ (English) War Memorials in the Eastern Somme „ (English) War Memorials in the Western Somme Coordinates: 49Ž30‹N 2Ž50‹E (http:/ / tools. wmflabs. org/ geohack/ geohack. php?pagename=Picardy& params=49_30_N_2_50_E_region:FR_type:adm1st) Provence 91 Provence For other uses, see Provence (disambiguation). Not to be confused with Province. Provence (French pronunciation:‘ [p†Œ.v•Žs]; Proven…al: Proven€a in classical norm or Prouvƒn€o in Mistralian norm, pronounced‘[p“u’v‰”sŒ]) is a geographical region and historical province of southeastern France, which extends from the left bank of the lower RhŒne River on the west to the Italian border on the east, and is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea on the [1] south. It largely corresponds with the modern administrative r•gion of Provence-Alpes-CŒte d'Azur, and includes the d•partements of Var, Bouches-du-RhŒne, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence and parts of Alpes-Maritimes and Vaucluse.[2] The Romans made the region into the first Roman province beyond the Alps and called it Provincia Romana, which evolved into the present name. It was ruled by the Counts of Provence from their capital in Aix-en-Provence until 1481, when it became a province of the Kings of France. While it has been part of France for more than five hundred years, it still retains a distinct cultural and linguistic identity, particularly in the interior of the region.[3] The modern region of Provence-Alpes-CŒte d'Azur The historical province of Provence (orange) within the modern region of Provence-Alpes-CŒte d'Azur in southeast France Provence 92 Gallery of Provence Mont Ventoux and a field of lavender The old port of Marseille. Proven…al country Flamingos in the Camargue. Place Republique in Arles Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, in Upper Provence road lined with plane trees History Main article: History of Provence See also: Lower Burgundy Prehistoric Provence The coast of Provence has some of the earliest known sites of human habitation in Europe. Primitive stone tools dated to 1 to 1.05‘million years BC were found in the Grotte du Vallonnet near Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, between Monaco and Menton.[4] More sophisticated tools, worked on both sides of the stone and dating to 600,000 BC, were found in the Cave of Escale at Saint Estªve-Janson, and tools from 400,000 BC and some of the first fireplaces in Europe were found at Terra Amata in Nice.[5] Tools dating to the Middle Paleolithic (300,000 BC) and Upper Paleolithic (30,000•10,000 BC) were discovered in the Observatory Cave, in the Jardin Exotique of Monaco. The entrance to the Cosquer Cave, decorated with paintings of auks, bison, seals and outlines of hands dating to 27,000 to 19,000 BC, is located 37 meters under the surface of the Calanque de The Paleolithic period in Provence saw great changes in the climate, Morgiou near Cassis. with the arrival and departure of two ice ages, and dramatic changes in the sea level. At the beginning of the paleolithic period, the sea level in western Provence was 150 meters higher than it is today. By the end of the paleolithic, it had dropped 100 to 150 metres lower than today's sea level. The cave dwellings of the early inhabitants of Provence were regularly inundated by the rising sea or left far from the sea and swept away by erosion.[6] Provence The changes in the sea level led to one of the most remarkable discoveries of signs of early man in Provence. In 1985, a diver named Henri Cosquer discovered the mouth of a submarine cave 37 metres below the surface of the Calanque de Morgiou near Marseille. The entrance led to a cave above sea level. Inside, the walls of the Cosquer Cave are decorated with drawings of bison, seals, auks, horses and [7] outlines of human hands, dating to between 27,000 and 19,000 BC. The end of the Paleolithic and beginning of the Neolithic period saw A bronze-age dolmen (2500 to 900 BC) near the sea settle at its present level, a warming of the climate and the Draguignan retreat of the forests. The disappearance of the forests and the deer and other easily-hunted game meant that the inhabitants of Provence had to survive on rabbits, snails and wild sheep. In about 6000 BC, the Castelnovian people, living around Ch‰teauneuf-les-Martigues, were among the first people in Europe to domesticate wild sheep, and to cease moving constantly from place to place. Since they were settled in one place they were able to develop new industries. Inspired by the imported pottery from the eastern Mediterranean, in about 6000 BC they created the first pottery to be made in France. Around 6000 BC, a wave of new settlers from the east, the Chasseens, arrived in Provence. They were farmers and warriors, and gradually displaced the earlier pastoral people from their lands. They were followed in about 2500 BC by another wave of people, also farmers, known as the Courronniens, who arrived by sea and settled along the coast of what is now the Bouches-du-RhŒne department. Traces of these early civilisations can be found in many parts of Provence. A Neolithic site dating to about 6,000 BC was discovered in Marseille near the Saint-Charles railway station. and a Dolmen from the Bronze Age (2500•900 BC) can be found near Draguignan. Ligures and Celts in Provence Between the 10th and 4th century BC the Ligures were found in Provence from Massilia till modernday Liguria. They were of uncertain origin; they may have been the descendants of the indigenous neolithic peoples.[8] Strabo distinctly states they were not of Celtic origin and a different race from the Gauls. They did not have their own alphabet, but their language remains in place names in Provence ending in the suffixes -asc, -osc. -inc, -ates, and auni. The ancient geographer Posidonios wrote of them: "Their country is savage and dry. The soil is so rocky that you cannot plant anything without striking stones. The men compensate for the lack of wheat by hunting... They climb the mountains like goats."[9] They were also warlike; they invaded Italy and went as far as Rome in the 4th century BC, and they later aided the passage of Hannibal, on his way to attack Rome (218 BC). Traces of the Ligures remain today in the dolmens and other megaliths found in eastern Provence, in the primitive stone shelters called 'Bories' found in the Luberon and Comtat, and in the rock carvings in the Valley of Marvels near Mont B‚go in the Alpes-Maritimes, at an altitude of 2,000 meters.[10] Between the 8th and 5th centuries BC, tribes of Celtic peoples, probably coming from Central Europe, also began moving into Provence. They had weapons made of iron, which allowed them to easily defeat the local tribes, who were still armed with bronze weapons. One tribe, called the Segobriga, settled near modern-day Marseille. The Caturiges, Tricastins, and Cavares settled to the west of the Durance river.[11] Celts and Ligurians spread throughout the area and the Celto-Ligures eventually shared the territory of Provence, each tribe in its own alpine valley or settlement along a river, each with its own king and dynasty. They built hilltop forts and settlements, later given the Latin name oppida. Today the traces 165 oppida are found in the Var, and as many as 285 in the Alpes-Maritimes. They worshipped various aspects of nature, establishing sacred woods at Sainte-Baume and Gemenos, and healing springs at Glanum and Vernª€gues. Later, in the 5th and 4th centuries BC, the different tribes formed confederations; the Voconces in the area from the Is€re to the Vaucluse; the Cavares in the Comtat; and the Salyens, from the RhŒne river to the Var. The tribes began to trade their local products, iron, silver, alabaster, marble, gold, resin, wax, honey and cheese; with their neighbours, first by trading routes along the 93 Provence 94 RhŒne river, and later Etruscan traders visited the coast. Etruscan amphorae from the 7th and 6th centuries BC have been found in Marseille, Cassis, and in hilltop oppida in the region. The Greeks in Provence Traders from the island of Rhodes were visiting the coast of Provence in the 7th century BC. Rhodes pottery from that century has been found in Marseille, near Martigues and Istres, and at Mont Garou and Evenos near Toulon. The traders from Rhodes gave their names to the ancient town of Rhodanousia (now Trinquetaille, across the RhŒne river from Arles), and to the main river of Provence, the Rhodanos, [12] today known as the RhŒne. The first permanent Greek settlement was Massalia, established at modern-day Marseille in about 600 BC by colonists coming from Phocaea (now Fo…a, on the Aegean coast of Asia Minor. A second wave of colonists arrived in about 540 BC, when Phocaea was destroyed by the Persians.[13] Remains of the ancient harbour of Massalia, near the Old Port of Marseille Massalia became one of the major trading ports of the ancient world. At its height, in the 4th century BC, it had a population of about 6,000 inhabitants, living on about fifty hectares surrounded by a wall. It was governed as an aristocratic republic, by an assembly of the 600 wealthiest citizens. It had a large temple of the cult of Apollo of Delphi on a hilltop overlooking the port, and a temple of the cult of Artemis of Ephesus at the other end of the city. The Drachma coins minted in Massalia were found in all parts of Ligurian-Celtic Gaul. Traders from Massalia ventured inland deep into France on the Rivers Durance and RhŒne, and established overland trade routes deep into Gaul, and to Switzerland and Burgundy, and as far north as the Baltic Sea. They exported their own products; local wine, salted pork and fish, aromatic and medicinal plants, coral and cork. The Massalians also established a series of small colonies and trading posts along the coast; which later became towns; they founded Citharista (La Ciotat); Tauroeis (Le Brusc); Olbia (near Hy€res); Pergantion (Breganson); Caccabaria (Cavalaire); Athenopolis (Saint-Tropez); Antipolis (Antibes); Nikaia (Nice), and Monoicos (Monaco). They established inland towns at Glanum (Saint-Remy) and Mastrabala (Saint-Blaise.) The most famous citizen of Massalia was the mathematician, astronomer and navigator Pytheas. Pytheas made mathematical instruments which allowed him to establish almost exactly the latitude of Marseille, and he was the first scientist to observe that the tides were connected with the phases of the moon. Between 330 and 320 BC he organised an expedition by ship into the Atlantic and as far north as England, and to visit Iceland, Shetland, and Norway. He was the first scientist to describe drift ice and the midnight sun. Though he hoped to establish a sea trading route for tin from Cornwall, his trip was not a commercial success, and it was not repeated. The Massalians found it cheaper and simpler to trade with Northern Europe over land routes.[14] Provence 95 Roman Provence (2nd century BC to 5th century AD) In the 2nd century BC the people of Massalia appealed to Rome for help against the Ligures. Roman legions entered Provence three times; first in 181 BC the Romans suppressed Ligurian uprisings near Genoa; in 154 BC the Roman Consul Optimus defeated the Oxybii and the Deciates, who were attacking Antibes; and in 125 BC, the Romans put down an uprising of a confederation of Celtic tribes.[15] After this battle, the Romans decided to establish permanent settlements in Provence. In 122 BC, next to the Celtic town of Entremont, the Romans built a new town, Aquae Sextiae, later called Aix-en-Provence. In 118 BC they founded Narbo (Narbonne). Pont du Gard, first century BC The Roman general Gaius Marius crushed the last serious resistance in 102 BC by defeating the Cimbri and the Teutons. He then began building roads to facilitate troop movements and commerce between Rome, Spain and Northern Europe; one from the coast inland to Apt and Tarascon, and the other along the coast from Italy to Spain, passing through Fr‚jus and Aix-en-Provence. In 49 BC, Massalia had the misfortune to choose the wrong side in the power struggle between Pompey and Julius Caesar. Pompey was defeated, and Massalia lost its territories and political influence. Roman veterans, in the meantime, populated two new towns, Arles and Fr‚jus, at the sites of older Greek settlements. In 8 BC the Emperor Augustus built a triumphal monument at La Turbie to commemorate the pacification of the region, and he began to Romanize Provence politically and culturally. Roman engineers and architects built monuments, theatres, baths, villas, fora, arenas and aqueducts, many of which still exist. (See Architecture of Provence.) Roman towns were built at Cavaillon; Orange; Arles; Fr‚jus; Glanum (outside Saint-R‚my-de-Provence); Carpentras; Vaison-la-Romaine; N‹mes; Vern€gues; Saint-Chamas and Cimiez (above Nice). The Roman province, which was called Gallia Narbonensis, for its capital, Narbo (modern Narbonne), extended from Italy to Spain, from the Alps to the Pyrenees. The Roman arena at Arles (2nd century AD) The baptistery of Fr‚jus Cathedral (5th century) is still in use The Pax Romana in Provence lasted until the middle of the 3rd century. Germanic tribes invaded Provence in 257 and 275. At the beginning the 4th century, the court of Roman Emperor Constantine (280•337) was forced to take refuge in Arles. By the end of the 5th century, Roman power in Provence had vanished, and an age of invasions, wars, and chaos began. The arrival of Christianity in Provence (3rd•6th centuries) There are many legends about the earliest Christians in Provence, but they are difficult to verify. It is documented that there were organised churches and bishops in the Roman towns of Provence as early as the 3rd and 4th centuries; in Arles in 254; Marseille in 314; Orange, Vaison and Apt in 314; Cavaillon, Digne, Embrun, Gap, and Fr‚jus at the end of the 4th century; Aix-en-Provence in 408; Carpentras, Avignon, Riez, Cimiez (today part of Nice) and Vence in 439; Antibes in 442; Toulon in 451; Senez in 406, Saint-Paul-Trois-Ch‰teaux in 517; and Gland€ves in Provence 96 541.[16] The oldest Christian structure still surviving in Provence is the baptistery of the cathedral in Fr‚jus, dating from the 5th century. At about the same time, in the 5th century, the first two monasteries in Provence were founded; L‚rins, on an island near Cannes; and Saint-Victor in Marseille. Germanic invasions, Merovingians and Carolingians (5th•9th centuries) Beginning in the second half of the 5th century, as Roman power waned, successive waves of Germanic tribes entered Provence; first the Visigoths (480); then the Ostrogoths; then the Burgundians; finally, the Franks in the 6th century. Arab invaders and Berber pirates came from North Africa to the Coast of Provence in the beginning of the 7th century. During the late 7th and early 8th century, Provence was formally suzerain to the Frankish kings of Merovingian dynasty, but it was in fact ruled by its own regional nobility of Gallo-Roman stock, who King Boson and San Stephen (fragment of fresco ruled themselves according to Roman, not Frankish law. Actually, the at Charlieu Abbey) region enjoyed a prestige that the northern Franks hadn't, but the local aristocracy feared Charles Martel's expansionist ambitions. In 737 Charles Martel headed down the RhŒne Valley after subduing Burgundy. Charles attacked Avignon and Arles, garrisoned by the Umayyads. He came back in 739 to capture for a second time Avignon and chase the duke Maurontus to his stronghold of Marseille. The city was brought to heel and the duke had to flee to an island. The region was thereafter under the rule of Carolingian Kings, descended from Charles Martel; and then was part of the empire of Charlemagne (742•814). In 879, after the death of the Carolingian ruler Charles the Bald, Boso of Provence, (also known as Boson), his brother-in-law, broke away from the Carolingian kingdom of Louis III and was elected the first ruler of an independent state of Provence. The Counts of Provence (9th•13th centuries) Three different dynasties of Counts ruled Provence during the Middle Ages, and Provence became a prize in the complex rivalries between the Catalan rulers of Barcelona, the Kings of Burgundy, the German rulers of the Holy Roman Empire, and the Angevin Kings of France.Wikipedia:Please clarify The Bosonids (879•1112) were the descendants of the first King of Provence, Boson. His son, Louis the Blind (890•928) lost his sight trying to win the throne of Italy, after which his cousin, Hugh of Italy (died 947) became the Duke of Provence and the Count of Vienne. Hugh moved the capital of Provence from Vienne to Arles and made Provence a fief of Rudolph II of Burgundy. In the 9th century, Arab pirates (called Saracens by the French) and then the Normans invaded Provence. The Normans pillaged the region and then left, but the Saracens built castles and began raiding towns and holding local residents for ransom. Early in 973, the Saracens captured Maieul, the Abbot of the Monastery at Cluny, and held him for ransom. The ransom was paid and the abbot was released, but the people of Provence, led by Count William I rose up and defeated the Saracens near their most powerful fortress Fraxinet The Catalan Ramon Berenguer I, Count of Provence, in the Castle in Fos, painted by Mari‡ Fortuny (Reial Acad€mia Catalana de Belles Arts de Sant Jordi, on deposit at the Palace of the Generalitat of Catalonia, Barcelona). Provence 97 (La Garde-Freinet) at the Battle of Tourtour. The Saracens who were not killed at the battle were baptised and made into slaves, and the remaining Saracens in Provence fled the region. Meanwhile, the dynastic quarrels continued. A war between Rudolph III of Burgundy and his rival, the German Emperor Conrad the Salic in 1032 led to Provence becoming a fiefdom of the Holy Roman Empire, which it remained until 1246. In 1112, the last descendant of Boson, Douce I, Countess of Provence, married the Catalan Ramon Berenguer III, Count of Barcelona, who as a result became Raymond Berenguer I, Count of Provence. He ruled Provence from 1112 until 1131, and his descendants, the Catalan Dynasty ruled Provence until 1246. In 1125, Provence was divided; the part of Provence north and west of the Durance river went to the Count of Toulouse, while the lands between the Durance and the Mediterranean, and from the RhŒne river to the Alps, belonged to the Counts of Provence. The capital of Provence was moved from Arles to Aix-en-Provence, and later to Brignoles.[17] The Coat of Arms of Ramon Berenguer III, Count of Barcelona and his descendants, who as Counts of Provence ruled Provence from 1112 until 1246 Coat of Arms of the Counts of Provence of the House of Valois-Anjou, who ruled Provence from 1246 until it became part of France in 1486 Under the Catalan dynasty, the 12th century saw the construction of important cathedrals and abbeys in Provence, in a harmonious new style, the romanesque, which united the Gallo-Roman style of the RhŒne Valley with the Lombard style of the Alps. Aix Cathedral was built on the site of the old Roman forum, and then rebuilt in the gothic style in the 13th and 14th centuries. The Church of St. Trophime in Arles was a landmark of Romanesque architecture, built between the 12th and the 15th centuries. A vast fortress-like monastery, Montmajour Abbey, was built on an island just north of Arles, and became a major destination for medieval pilgrims. In the 12th century three Cistercian monasteries were built in remote parts of Provence, far from the political intrigues of the cities. S‚nanque Abbey was the first, established in the Luberon 1148 and 1178. Le Thoronet Abbey was founded in a remote valley near Draguignan in 1160. Silvacane Abbey, on the Durance river at La Roque-d'Anth‚ron, was founded in 1175. The Church of Saint Trophime in Arles (12th century) Provence 98 In the 13th century, the French kings started to use marriage to extend their influence into the south of France. One son of King Louis VIII of France "the Lion", Alphonse, Count of Poitou, married the heiress of the Count of Toulouse, Joan. Another, Louis IX "the Saint" of France or Saint Louis (1214•1270), married Marguerite of Provence. Then, in 1246, Charles, Count of Anjou, the youngest son of Louis VIII, married the heiress of Provence, Beatrice. Provence's fortunes became tied to the Angevin Dynasty and the Kingdom of Naples.[18] The Popes in Avignon (14th century) Main article: Avignon papacy In 1309, Pope Clement V, who was originally from Bordeaux, moved the Roman Catholic Papacy to Avignon. From 1309 until 1377, seven Popes reigned in Avignon before the Schism between the Roman and Avignon churches, which led to the creation of rival popes in both places. After that three Antipopes reigned in Avignon until 1423, when the Papacy finally returned to Rome. Between 1334 and 1363 Popes Benedict XII built the old Papal Palace of Avignon, and Clement VI built the New Palace; together the Palais des Papes was the largest gothic palace in Europe.[19] The fa…ade of the Palais des Papes. The 14th century was a terrible time in Provence, and all of Europe: the population of Provence had been about 400,000 people; the Black Plague (1348•1350) killed fifteen thousand people in Arles, half the population of the city, and greatly reduced the population of the whole region. The defeat of the French Army during the Hundred Years' War forced the cities of Provence to build walls and towers to defend themselves against armies of former soldiers who ravaged the countryside. The Angevin rulers of Provence also had a difficult time. An assembly of nobles, religious leaders, and town leaders of Provence was organised to resist the authority of Queen Joan I of Naples (1343•1382.) She was murdered in 1382 by her cousin and heir, Charles of Durazzo, who started a new war, leading to the separation of Nice, Puget-Th‚niers and Barcelonnette from Provence in 1388, and their attachment to the territories of Savoy. From 1388 up to 1526, the name of this new area acquired by the House of Savoy at the expense of the rest of Provence was Terres Neuves de Provence. After 1526 it took officially the name of County of Nice. Provence 99 Good King Ren€, the last ruler of Provence The 15th century saw a series of wars between the Kings of Aragon and the Counts of Provence. In 1423 the army of Alphonse of Aragon captured Marseille, and in 1443 they captured Naples, and forced its ruler, King Ren‚ I of Naples, to flee. He eventually settled in one of his remaining territories, Provence. History and legend has given Ren‚ the title "Good King Ren‚ of Provence", though he only lived in Provence in the last ten years of his life, from 1470 to 1480, and his political policies of territorial expansion were costly and unsuccessful. Provence benefitted from population growth and economic expansion, and Ren‚ was a generous patron of the arts, sponsoring painters Nicolas Froment, Louis Br‚a, and other masters. He also completed one of the finest castles in Provence at Tarascon, on the RhŒne river. When Ren‚ died in 1480, his title passed to his nephew Charles du Maine. One year later, in 1481, when Charles died, the title passed to Louis XI of France. Provence was legally incorporated into the French royal domain in 1486. Detail of the Burning Bush triptych by Nicolas Froment, showing Ren‚ and his wife Jeanne de Laval 1486 to 1789 Soon after Provence became part of France, it became involved in the Wars of Religion that swept the country in the 16th century. Between 1493 and 1501, many Jews were expelled from their homes and sought sanctuary in the region of Avignon, which was still under the direct rule of the Pope. In 1545, the Parliament of Aix ordered the destruction The Chateau of Ren‚ in Tarascon (15th century) of the villages of Lourmarin, M‚rindol, Cabri‚res in the Luberon, because their inhabitants were Vaudois, of Italian Piedmontese origin, and were not considered sufficiently orthodox Catholics. Most of Provence remained strongly Catholic, with only one enclave of Protestants, the principality of Orange, Vaucluse, an enclave ruled by Prince William of the House of Orange-Nassau of the Netherlands, which was created in 1544 and was not incorporated into France until 1673. An army of the Catholic League laid siege to the Protestant city of Mªnerbes in the Vaucluse between 1573 and 1578. The wars did not stop until the end of the 16th century, with the consolidation of power in Provence by the House of Bourbon kings. The semi-independent Parliament of Provence in Aix and some of the cities of Provence, particularly Marseille, continued to rebel against the authority of the Bourbon king. After uprisings in 1630•31 and 1648•1652, the young King Louis XIV had two large forts, fort St. Jean and Fort St. Nicholas, built at the harbour entrance to control the city's unruly population. At the beginning of the 16th century, Cardinal Richelieu began to build View of Toulon Harbour around 1750, by Joseph a naval arsenal and dockyard at Toulon to serve as a base for a new Vernet. French Mediterreanean fleet. The base was greatly enlarged by Jean-Baptiste Colbert, the minister of Louis XIV, who also commissioned his chief military engineer Vauban to strengthen the fortifications around the city. Provence 100 At the beginning of the 17th century Provence had a population of about 450,000 people.[20] It was predominantly rural, devoted to raising wheat, wine, and olives, with small industries for tanning, pottery, perfume-making, and ship and boat building. Proven…al quilts, made from the mid-17th century onwards, were successfully exported to England, Spain, Italy, Germany and Holland. There was considerable commerce along the coast, and up and down the RhŒne river. The cities: Marseille, Toulon, Avignon and Aix-en-Provence, saw the construction of boulevards and richly-decorated private houses. Marseille in 1754, by Vernet At the beginning of the 18th century Provence suffered from the economic malaise of the end of the reign of Louis XIV. The plague struck the region between 1720 and 1722, beginning in Marseille, killing some 40,000 people. Still, by the end of the century, many artisinal industries began to flourish; making perfumes in Grasse; olive oil in Aix and the Alpilles; textiles in Orange, Avignon and Tarascon; and faience pottery in Marseille, Apt, Aubagne, and Moustiers-Sainte-Marie. Many immigrants arrived from Liguria and the Piedmont in Italy. By the end of the 18th century, Marseille had a population of 120,000 people, making it the third largest city in France. During the French Revolution Main article: French Revolution Though most of Provence, with the exception of Marseille, Aix and Avignon, was rural, conservative and largely royalist, it did produce some memorable figures in the French Revolution; Honor‚ Gabriel Riqueti, comte de Mirabeau from Aix, who tried to moderate the Revolution, and turn France into a constitutional monarchy like England; the Marquis de Sade from Lacoste in the Luberon, who was a Deputy from the far left in the National Assembly; Charles Barbaroux from Marseille, who sent a battalion of volunteers to Paris to fight in the French Revolutionary Army; and Emmanuel-Joseph Siey€s (1748•1836), an abb‚, essayist and political leader, who was one of the chief theorists of the French Revolution, French Consulate, and First French Empire, and who, in 1799, was the instigator of the coup d'‚tat of 18 Brumaire, which brought Napoleon to power. Provence also produced the most memorable song of the period, the La Marseillaise. Though the song was originally written by a citizen of Strasbourg, Claude Joseph Rouget de Lisle in 1792, and it was originally a war song for the revolutionary Army of the Rhine, it became famous when it sung on the streets of Paris by the volunteers from Marseille, who had heard it when it was sung in Marseille by a young volunteer from Montpellier named Fran…ois Mireur. It became the most popular song of the Revolution, and in 1879 became the national anthem of France. The Revolution was as violent and bloody in Provence as it was in other parts of France. On 30 April 1790, Fort Saint-Nicolas in Marseille was besieged, and many of the soldiers inside were massacred. On 17 October 1791 a massacre of royalists and religious figures took place in the ice storage rooms (glaciere) of the prison of the Palace of the Popes in Avignon. La Marseillaise 1792 When the radical Montagnards seized power from the Girondins in May 1793, a real counter-revolution broke out in Avignon, Marseille and Toulon. A revolutionary army under General Carteaux recaptured Marseille in August 1793 and renamed it "City without a Name" (Ville sans Nom.) In Toulon, the opponents of the Revolution handed the city to a British and Spanish fleet on 28 August 1793. A Revolutionary Army laid siege to the British positions for four Provence months (see the Siege of Toulon), and finally, thanks to the enterprise of the young commander of artillery, Napoleon Bonaparte, defeated the British and drove them out in December 1793. About 15,000 royalists escaped with the British fleet, but five to eight hundred of the 7,000 who remained were shot on the Champ de Mars, and Toulon was renamed "Port la Montagne". The fall of the Montagnards in July 1794 was followed by a new White Terror aimed at the revolutionaries. Calm was only restored by the rise of Napoleon to power in 1795. Under Napoleon I Napoleon restored the belongings and power of the families of the old regime in Provence. The British fleet of Admiral Horatio Nelson blockaded Toulon, and almost all maritime commerce was stopped, causing hardship and poverty. When Napoleon was defeated, his fall was celebrated in Provence. When he escaped from Elba on 1 March 1815, and landed at Golfe-Juan, he detoured to avoid the cities of Provence, which were hostile to him.Wikipedia:Citation needed 19th century Provence enjoyed prosperity in the 19th century; the ports of Marseille and Toulon connected Provence with the expanding French Empire in North Africa and the Orient, especially after the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869. In April•July 1859, Napoleon III made a secret agreement with Cavour, Prime Minister of Piedmont, for France to assist in expelling Austria from the Italian Peninsula and bringing about a united Italy, in exchange for Piedmont ceding Savoy and the Nice region to France. Marseille in 1825 He went to war with Austria in 1859 and won a victory at Solferino, which resulted in Austria ceding Lombardy to Piedmont, and, in return, Napoleon received Savoy and Nice in 1860, and Roquebrune-Cap-Martin and Menton in 1861. The railroad connected Paris with Marseille (1848) and then with Toulon and Nice (1864). Nice, Antibes and Hy€res became popular winter resorts for European royalty, including Queen Victoria. Under Napoleon III, Marseille grew to a population of 250,000, including a very large Italian community. Toulon had a population of 80,000. The large cities like Marseille and Toulon saw the building of churches, opera houses, grand boulevards, and parks. After the fall of Louis Napoleon following the defeat in the Franco-Prussian War barricades went up in the streets of Marseille (23 March 1871) and the Communards, led by Gaston Cremieux and following the lead of the Paris Commune, took control of the city. The Commune was crushed by the army and Cremieux was executed on 30 November 1871. Though Provence was generally conservative, it often elected reformist leaders; Prime Minister L‚on Gambetta was the son of a Marseille grocer, and future prime minister Georges Clemenceau was elected deputy from the Var in 1885. The second half of the 19th century saw a revival of the Proven…al language and culture, particularly traditional rural values. driven by a movement of writers and poets called the Felibrige, led by poet Fr‚d‚ric Mistral. Mistral achieved literary success with his novel Mir•io (Mireille in French); he was awarded the Nobel Prize for literature in 1904. 101 Provence 20th century Between World War I and World War II, Provence was bitterly divided between the more conservative rural areas and the more radical big cities. There were widespread strikes in Marseille in 1919, and riots in Toulon in 1935. After the defeat of France by Germany in June 1940, France was divided into an occupied zone and unoccupied zone, with Provence in the unoccupied zone. Parts of eastern Provence were occupied by Italian soldiers. Collaboration and passive resistance gradually gave way to more active resistance, particularly after Nazi Germany invaded the Soviet Union in June 1941 and the Communist Party became active in the resistance. Jean Moulin, the deputy of Charles de Gaulle, the leader of the Free France resistance movement, was parachuted into Eygali€res, in the Bouches-du-RhŒne on 2 January 1942 to unite the diverse resistance movements in all of France against the Germans. In November 1942, following Allied landings in North Africa (Operation Torch), the Germans occupied all of Provence (Operation Attila) and then headed for Toulon (Case Anton). The French fleet at Toulon sabotaged its own ships to keep them from falling into German hands. The Germans began a systematic rounding-up of French Jews and refugees from Nice and Marseille. Many thousands were taken to concentration camps, and few survived. A large quarter around the port of Marseille was emptied of inhabitants and dynamited, so it would not serve as a base for the resistance. Nonetheless, the resistance grew stronger; the leader of the pro-German militia, the Milice, in Marseille was assassinated in April 1943. On 15 August 1944, two months after the Allied landings in Normandy US 3rd Infantry Division landing at (Operation Overlord), the Seventh United States Army under General Cavalaire-sur-Mer Alexander Patch, with a Free French corps under General Jean de Lattre de Tassigny, landed on the coast of the Var between St. Raphael and Cavalaire (Operation Dragoon). The American forces moved north toward Manosque, Sisteron and Gap, while the French First Armored Division under General Vigier liberated Brignoles, Salon, Arles, and Avignon. The Germans in Toulon resisted until 27 August, and Marseille was not liberated until 25 August. After the end of the War, Provence faced an enormous task of repair and reconstruction, particularly of the ports and railroads destroyed during the war. As part of this effort, the first modern concrete apartment block, the Unit‚ d'Habitation of Corbusier, was built in Marseille in 1947•52. In 1962, Provence absorbed a large number of French citizens who left Algeria after its independence. Since that time, large North African communities settled in and around the big cities, particularly Marseille and Toulon. In the 1940s, Provence underwent a cultural renewal, with the founding of the Avignon Festival of theatre (1947), the reopening of the Cannes Film Festival (begun in 1939), and many other major events. With the building of new highways, particularly the Paris Marseille autoroute which opened in 1970, Provence became destination for mass tourism from all over Europe. Many Europeans, particularly from Britain, bought summer houses in Provence. The arrival of the TGV high-speed trains shortened the trip from Paris to Marseille to less than four hours. At the end of the 20th century and the beginning of the 21st century, the residents of Provence were struggling to reconcile economic development and population growth with their desire to preserve the landscape and culture that make Provence unique. 102 Provence 103 Extent and geography The original Roman province was called Gallia Transalpina, then Gallia Narbonensis, or simply Provincia Nostra ('Our Province') or Provincia. It extended from the Alps to the Pyrenees and north to the Vaucluse, with its capital in Narbo Martius (present-day Narbonne). Borders In the 15th century the Cont‚ of Provence was bounded by the Var river on the east, the RhŒne river to the west, with the Mediterranean to the south, and a northern border that roughly followed the Durance river. The Comtat Venaissin, a territory which included Avignon, and the principality of Orange were both papal states, ruled by the Pope from the 13th century until the French Revolution. At the end of the 14th century another piece of Provence along the Italian border, including Nice and the lower Alps, was detached from Provence and attached to the lands of the Duke of Savoy. The lower Alps were re-attached to France after the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713, but Nice did not return to France until 1860, during the reign of Napoleon III.[21] The Roman Province of Gallia Narbonensis around 58 BC The administrative region of Provence-Alpes-Cote d'Azur was created in 1982. It included Provence, plus the territory of the Comtat Venaissin around Avignon, the eastern portion of the Dauphin‚, and the former county of Nice. Location of Comt‚ de Provence Rivers The RhŒne river, on the western border of Provence, is one of the major rivers of France, and has been a highway of commerce and communications between inland France and the Mediterranean for centuries. It rises as the effluent of the RhŒne Glacier in Valais, Switzerland, in the Saint-Gotthard massif, at an altitude of 1753 m. It is The RhŒne at Avignon joined by the river SaŒne at Lyon. Along the RhŒne Valley, it is joined on the right bank by C‚vennes rivers Eyrieux, Ard€che, C€ze and Gardon or Gard, on the left Alps bank by rivers Is€re, DrŒme, Ouv€ze and Durance. At Arles, the RhŒne divides itself in two arms, forming the Camargue delta, with all branches flowing into the Mediterranean Sea. One arm is called the "Grand RhŒne"; the other one is the "Petit RhŒne". Provence 104 The Durance river, a tributary of the RhŒne, has its source in the Alps near Brian…on. It flows south-west through Embrun, Sisteron, Manosque, Cavaillon, and Avignon, where it meets the RhŒne. The Verdon River is a tributary of the Durance, rising at an altitude of 2,400 metres in the southwestern Alps near Barcelonette, and flowing southwest for 175 kilometres through the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence and Var (d‚partements) before it reaches the Durance at near The Gorge du Verdon. Vinon-sur-Verdon, south of Manosque. The Verdon is best known for its canyon, the Verdon Gorge. This limestone canyon, also called the 'Grand Canyon of Verdon', 20 kilometres in length and more than 300 metres deep, is a popular climbing and sight-seeing area. The Var River rises near the Col de la Cayolle (2,326 m/7,631‘ft) in the Maritime Alps and flows generally southeast for 120 kilometres (75‘mi) into the Mediterranean between Nice and Saint-Laurent-du-Var. Before Nice was returned to France in 1860, the Var marked the eastern border of France along the Mediterranean. The Var is the unique case in France of a river giving a name to a department, but not flowing through that department (due to subsequent adjustments to the department's boundaries). The Camargue With an area of over 930‘km• (360‘mi•), the Camargue is Western Europe's largest river delta (technically an island, as it is wholly surrounded by water). It is a vast plain comprising large brine lagoons or •tangs, cut off from the sea by sandbars and encircled by reed-covered marshes which are in turn surrounded by a large cultivated area. The Camargue is home to more than 400 species of birds, the brine ponds providing one of the few European habitats for the greater flamingo. The marshes are also a prime habitat for many species of insects, notably (and notoriously) some of the most ferocious mosquitoes to be found anywhere in France. It is also famous for bulls and the Camargue horse. Mountains By considering the Maritime Alps, along the border with Italy, as a part of the cultural Provence, they constitute the highest elevations of the region (the Punta dell'Argentera has an elevation of 3,297 m). They form the border between the French d•partement Alpes-Maritimes and the Italian province of Cuneo. Mercantour National Park is located in the Maritime Alps. On the other hand, if the d•partement Hautes Alpes is also considered as part of the modern Provence, then the alpin •crins mountains represent the highest elevations of the region with the Barre des •crins culminating at 4102m. Vallon de Molli€res, Mercantour National Park. Provence 105 Alpilles landscape near Le Destet. View of Mont Ventoux from Mirabel-aux-Baronnies. Outside of the Maritime Alps, Mont Ventoux (Occitan: Ventor in classical norm or Ventour in Mistralian norm), at 1,909 metres (6,263‘ft), is the highest peak in Provence. It is located some 20‘km north-east of Carpentras, Vaucluse. On the north side, the mountain borders the DrŒme d‚partement. It is nicknamed the "Giant of Provence", or "The Bald Mountain". Although geologically part of the Alps, is often considered to be separate from them, due to the lack of mountains of a similar height nearby. It stands alone to the west of the Luberon range, and just to the east of the Dentelles de Montmirail, its foothills. The top of the mountain is bare limestone without vegetation or trees. The white limestone on the mountain's barren peak means it appears from a distance to be snow-capped all year round (its snow cover actually lasts from December to April). The Alpilles are a chain of small mountains located about 20 kilometres (12‘mi) south of Avignon. Although they are not particularly high • only some 387 metres (1,270‘ft) at their highest point • the Alpilles stand out since they rise abruptly from the plain of the RhŒne valley. The range is about 25‘km long by about 8 to 10‘km wide, running in an east-west direction between the RhŒne and Durance rivers. The landscape of the Alpilles is one of arid limestone peaks separated by dry valleys. Montagne Sainte-Victoire is probably the best-known mountain in Provence, thanks to the painter Paul C‚zanne, who could see it from his home, and painted it frequently. It is a limestone mountain ridge which extends over 18 kilometres between the d‚partements of Bouches-du-RhŒne and Var. Its highest point is the Pic des mouches at 1,011‘m. Mont Sainte-Victoire, painted by Paul C‚zanne Provence 106 The Massif des Maures (Mountains of the Moors) is a small chain of mountains that lies along the coast of the Mediterranean in the Var Department between Hy€res et Fr‚jus. Its highest point is the signal de la Sauvette, 780 metres high. The name is a souvenir of the Moors (Maures in Old French), Arabs and Berbers from North Africa, who settled on the coast of Provence in the 9th and 10th centuries. The massif des Maures extends about sixty kilometres along the coast, and reaches inland about thirty kilometres. On the north it is bordered by a depression which is followed by the routes nationales 97 and 7 and the railroad line between Toulon and Nice. On the south it ends abruptly at the Mediterraenan, forming a broken and abrupt coastline. The massif des Maures The peninsula of Saint-Tropez is part of the Massif des Maures, along with the peninsula of Giens and the islands offshore of Hy€res; Porquerolles, Port-Cros, and ‹le du Levant. Cape Sici‚, west of Toulon, as well as the massif of Tanneron, belong geologically to the massif des Maures. The Calanques The Calanques, also known as the Massif des Calanques, are a dramatic feature of the Provence coast, a 20-km long series of narrow inlets in the cliffs of the coastline between Marseille on the west and Cassis on the east. The highest peak in the massif is Mont Puget, 565 metres high. The best known calanques of the Massif des Calanques include the Calanque de Sormiou, the Calanque de Morgiou, the Calanque d'En-Vau, the Calanque de Port-Pin and the Calanque de Sugiton. Calanques are remains of ancient river mouths formed mostly during Tertiary. Later, during quaternary glaciations, as glaciers swept by, they further deepened those valleys which would eventually (at the end of the last glaciation) be invaded with sea and become calanques. Calanque de Sugiton The Cosquer cave is an underwater grotto in the Calanque de Morgiou, 37 metres (121‘ft) underwater, that was inhabited during Paleolithic era, when the sea level was much lower than today. Its walls are covered with paintings and engravings dating back to between 27,000 and 19,000 BC, depicting animals such as bison, ibex, and horses, as well as sea mammals such as seals, and at least one bird, the auk. Landscapes The Garrigue, typical landscape of Provence The Garrigue is the typical landscape of Provence; is a type of low, soft-leaved scrubland or chaparral found on limestone soils around the Mediterranean Basin, generally near the [22] seacoast, where the climate is moderate, but where there are annual summer drought conditions. Juniper and stunted holm oaks are the typical trees; aromatic lime-tolerant shrubs such as lavender, sage, rosemary, wild thyme and Artemisia are common garrigue plants. The open landscape of the garrigue is punctuated by dense thickets of Kermes oak. Provence 107 Climate Most of Provence has a Mediterranean climate, characterised by hot, dry summers, mild winters, little snow, and abundant sunshine. Within Provence there are micro-climates and local variations, ranging from the Alpine climate inland from Nice to the continental climate in the northern Vaucluse. The winds of Provence are an important feature of the climate, particularly the mistral, a cold, dry wind which, especially in the winter, blows down the RhŒne Valley to the Bouches-du-RhŒne and the Var Departments, and often reaches over one hundred kilometres an hour. Mistral wind blowing near Marseille. In the center is the Ch‰teau d'If Bouches-du-Rh„ne Marseille, in the Bouches-du-RhŒne, has an average of 59 days of rain a year, though when it does rain the rain is often torrential; the average annual rainfall is 544.4‘mm. It snows an average of 2.3 days a year, and the snow rarely remains long. Marseille has an average of 2835.5 hours of sunshine a year. The average minimum temperature in January is 2.3‘ŽC., and the average maximum temperature in July is 29.3‘ŽC. The mistral blows an average of one hundred days a year. The Var Toulon and the Department of the Var (which includes St. Tropez and Hy€res) have a climate slightly warmer, dryer and sunnier than Nice and the Alpes-Maritime, but also less sheltered from the wind. Toulon has an average of 2899.3 hours of sunshine a year, making it the [23] sunniest city in metropolitan France, The average maximum daily temperature in August is 29.1‘ŽC., and the average daily minimum temperature in January is 5.8‘ŽC. The average annual rainfall is 665‘mm, with the most rain from October to November. Strong winds blow an average of 118 days a year in Toulon, compared with 76 days at Fr‚jus further east. The strongest Mistral wind recorded in Toulon was 130 kilometres an hour.[24] Sisteron • la Baume rock Alpes-Maritimes Nice and the Alpes-Maritimes Department are sheltered by the Alps, and are the most protected part of the Mediterranean coast. The winds in this department are usually gentle, blowing from the sea to the land, though sometimes the Mistral blows strongly from the northwest, or, Forcalquier Cathedral turned by the mountains, from the east. In 1956 a mistral wind from the northwest reached the speed of 180 kilometres an hour at Nice airport. Sometimes in summer the scirocco brings high temperatures and reddish desert sand from Africa. (See Winds of Provence.) Rainfall is infrequent • 63 days a year, but can be torrential, particularly in September, when storms and rain are caused by the difference between the colder air inland and the warm Mediterranean water temperature (20•24 degrees‘C.). The average annual rainfall in Nice is 767‘mm, more than in Paris, but concentrated in fewer days. Provence Snow is extremely rare, usually falling once every ten years. 1956 was a very exceptional year, when 20 centimetres of snow blanketed the coast. In January 1985 the coast between Cannes and Menton received 30 to 40 centimetres of snow. In the mountains, the snow is present from November to May Nice has an annual average of 2694 hours of sunshine. The average maximum daily temperature in Nice in August is 28‘ŽC., and the average minimum daily temperature in January is 6‘ŽC. Alpes-de-Haute-Provence The Department of Alpes-de-Haute-Provence has a Mediterranean climate in the lower valleys under one thousand metres in altitude and an alpine climate in the high valleys, such as the valleys of the Blanche, the Haut Verdon and the Ubaye, which are over 2500 metres high. The alpine climate in the higher mountains is moderated by the warmer air from the Mediterranean. Haute-Provence has unusually high summer temperatures for its altitude and latitude (44 degrees north). The average summer temperature is 22 to 23‘ŽC. at an altitude of 400 metres, and 18 to 19‘ŽC. at the altitude of 1000 metres; and the winter average temperature is 4 to 5‘ŽC. at 400 metres and 0 C. at 1000 metres. The lower valleys have 50 days of freezing temperatures a year, more in the higher valleys. Sometimes the temperatures in the high valleys can reach •30‘ŽC. Because of this combination of high mountains and Mediterreanean air, it is not unusual that the region frequently has some of the lowest winter temperatures and some of the hottest summer temperatures in France. Rainfall in Haute-Provence is infrequent • 60 to 80 days a year • but can be torrential; 650 to 900‘mm. a year in the foothills and plateaus of the southwest, and in the valley of the Ubaye; and 900 to 1500‘mm. in the mountains. Most rainfall comes in the autumn, in brief and intense storms; from mid-June to mid-August, rain falls during brief but violent thunderstorms. Thunder can be heard 30 to 40 days a year. Snow falls in the mountains from November to May, and in midwinter can be found down to altitude of 1000•1200 metres on the shady side of the mountains and 1300 to 1600 metres on the sunny side. Snowfalls are usually fairly light, and melt rapidly. The Mistral (wind) is a feature of the climate in the western part of the Department, blowing from the north and the northwest, bringing clear and dry weather. The eastern part of the department is more protected from the Mistral. The Marin (wind) comes from the south, bringing warm air, clouds and rain. Haute-Provence is one of the sunniest regions of France, with an average of between 2550 and 2650 hours of sunshine annually in the north of the department, and 2700 to 2800 hours in the southwest. The clear nights and sunny days cause a sharp difference between nighttime and daytime temperatures. Because of the clear nights, the region is home of important observatories, such as the Observatory of Haute-Provence in Saint-Michel-Observatoire near of Forcalquier. The Vaucluse The Vaucluse is the meeting point of three of the four different climatic zones of France; it has a Mediterranean climate in the south, an alpine climate in the northeast, around the mountains of Vaucluse and the massif of the Baronnies; and a continental climate in the northwest. The close proximity of these three different climates tends to moderate all of them, and the Mediterranean climate usually prevails. Orange in the Vaucluse has 2595 hours of sunshine a year. It rains an average of 80 days a year, for a total of 693.4‘mm a year. The maximum average temperature in July is 29.6‘ŽC., and the average minimum temperature in January is 1.3‘ŽC. There are an average of 110 days of strong winds a year. 108 Provence 109 Language and literature Scientists, scholars and prophets „ Pytheas (4th century BCE) was a geographer and mathematician who lived in the Greek colony of Massalia, which became Marseille. He conducted an expedition by sea north around England to Iceland, and was the first to describe the midnight sun and polar regions. „ Petrarch (1304•1374) was an Italian poet and scholar, considered the father of humanism and one of the first great figures of Italian literature. He spent much of his early life in Avignon and Carpentras as an official at the Papal court in Avignon, and wrote a famous account of his ascent of Mount Ventoux near Aix-en-Provence. „ Nostradamus (1503•1566), a Renaissance apothecary and reputed clairvoyant best known for his alleged prophecies of great world events, was born in Saint-Remy-de-Provence and lived and died in Salon-de-Provence. Occitan literature Main articles: Occitan language and Occitan literature Historically the language spoken in Provence was Proven…al, a dialect of the Occitan language, also known as langue d'oc, and closely related to Catalan. There are several regional variations: vivaro-alpin, spoken in the Alps; and the proven…al variations of south, including the maritime, the rhoadanien (in the RhŒne Valley) and the ni…ois (in Nice). Ni…ois is the archaic form of proven…al closest to the original language of the troubadours, and is sometimes to said to be literary language of its own.[25] Proven…al was widely spoken in Provence until the beginning of the 20th century, when the French government launched an intensive and largely successful effort to replace regional languages with French. Today Proven…al is Raimbaut de Vaqueiras, from a taught in schools and universities in the region, but is spoken regularly by a small number of people, probably less than five hundred thousand, mostly elderly. collection of troubadour songs, BNF Richelieu Manuscrits Fran€ais 854, Bibliothƒque Nationale Fran€aise, Paris. Provence 110 Writers and poets in the Occitan language The golden age of Proven…al literature, more correctly called Occitan literature, was the 11th century and the 12th century, when the troubadours broke away from classical Latin literature and composed romances and love songs in their own vernacular language. Among the most famous troubadours was Folquet de Marselha, whose love songs became famous all over Europe, and who was praised by Dante in his Divine Comedy. In his later years, Folquet gave up poetry to become the Abbot of Le Thoronet Abbey, and then Bishop of Toulouse, where he fiercely persecuted the Cathars. In the middle of the 19th century there was a literary movement to revive the language, called the F•librige, led by the poet Fr‚d‚ric Mistral (1830•1914), who shared the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1904. Proven…al writers and poets who wrote in Occitan include: „ Raimbaut de Vaqueiras (1180•1207) „ Louis Bellaud (1543•1588) "Folquet de Marselha" in a 13th-century chansonnier. Depicted in his episcopal robes „ Th‚odore Aubanel (1829•1886) „ Joseph d'Arbaud (1874•1950) „ Robert Lafont (1923•2009) French authors „ Alphonse Daudet (1840•1897) was the best-known French writer from Provence in the 19th century, though he lived mostly in Paris and Champrosay. He was best known for his Lettres de mon moulin (eng: Letters from my Mill) (1869) and the Tartarin de Tarascon trilogy (1872, 1885, 1890). His story L'Arl•sienne (1872) was made into a three-act play with music by Bizet.[26] „ Marcel Pagnol (1895•1970), born in Aubagne, is known both as a filmmaker and for his stories of his childhood, Le Chˆteau de la Mere, La Gloire de mon Pere, and Le Temps des secrets. He was the first filmmaker to become a member of the Acad‚mie fran…aise in 1946. Alphonse Daudet „ Colette (Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette) (1873•1954), although she was not from Provence, became particularly attached to Saint-Tropez. After World War II, she headed a committee which saw that the village, badly-damaged by the war, was restored to its original beauty and character „ Jean Giono (1895•1970), born in Manosque, wrote about peasant life in Provence, inspired by his imagination and by his vision of Ancient Greece. „ Paul Ar€ne (1843•1896), born in Sisteron, wrote about life and the countryside around his home town. Emigr€s, exiles, and expatriates In the 19th and 20th centuries, the climate and lifestyle of Provence attracted writers almost as much as it attracted painters. It was particularly popular among British, American and Russian writers in the 1920s and 1930s. Provence 111 „ Edith Wharton (1862•1937), bought Castel Sainte-Claire in 1927, on the site of a former convent in the hills above Hy€res, where she lived during the winters and springs until her death in 1937. „ F. Scott Fitzgerald (1896•1940) and his wife Zelda first visited the Riviera in 1924, stopping at Hy€res, Cannes and Monte Carlo, eventually staying at St. Raphaˆl, where he wrote much of The Great Gatsby and began Tender is the Night. Colette „ Ivan Bunin (1870•1953), the first Russian writer to win the Nobel Prize for Literature, went to France after the Russian Revolution, set several of his short stories on the CŒte d'Azur, and had a house in Grasse. „ Somerset Maugham (1874•1965) bought a house, the Villa Mauresque, in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat in 1928, and, except for the years of World War II, spent much of his time there until his death. Other English-speaking writers who live in or have written about Provence include: „ „ „ „ „ „ Peter Mayle Carol Drinkwater John Lanchester Willa Cather Charles Spurgeon (who spent long periods in Menton Katherine Mansfield Music Music written about Provence includes: „ The saxophone concerto Tableaux de Provence (Pictures of Provence) composed by Paule Maurice. „ „ „ „ The opera Mireille by Charles Gounod after Fr‚d‚ric Mistral's poem Mireio. Georges Bizet, 'L'Arl‚sienne' incidental music to play by Alphonse Daudet. Darius Milhaud, 'Suite Proven…ale' Two song settings of Vladimir Nabokov's poem "Provence" in Russian and English versions by composers Ivan [27] Barbotin and James DeMars on the 2011 contemporary classical album Troika. „ The piece "Suite Provencale", written for symphonic band by Jan Van der Roost. Provence 112 Painters Artists have been painting in Provence since prehistoric times; paintings of bisons, seals, auks and horses dating to between 27,000 and 19,000 BC were found in the Cosquer Cave near Marseille. [28] The 14th-century wooden ceiling of the cloister of Fr‚jus Cathedral has a remarkable series of paintings of biblical scenes, fantastic animals, and scenes from daily life, painted between 1350 and 1360. They include paintings of a fallen angel with the wings of a bat, a demon with the tail of a serpent, angels playing instruments, a tiger, an elephant, an ostrich, domestic and wild animals, a mermaid, a dragon, a centaur, a butcher, a knight, and a juggler.[29] Nicolas Froment (1435•1486) was the most important painter of Provence during the Renaissance, best known for his triptych of the The 14th-century ceiling of the cloister of Fr‚jus Cathedral is decorated with paintings of animals, people and mythical creatures Burning Bush (c. 1476), commissioned by King Ren‚ I of Naples. The painting shows the Annunciation to the shepherds, with the Virgin Mary and Christ above the burning bush. The wings of the triptych show King Rene with Mary Magdalene, St. Anthony and St. Maurice on one side, and Queen Jeanne de Laval, with Saint Catherine, John the Evangelist, and Saint Nicholas on the other.[30] Louis Br‚a (1450•1523) was a 15th-century painter, born in Nice, whose work is found in churches from Genoa to Antibes. His Retable of Saint-Nicholas (1500) is found in Monaco, and his Retable de Notre-Dame-de-Rosaire (1515) is found in Antibes. Pierre Paul Puget (1620•1694), born in Marseille, was a painter of portraits and religious scenes, but was better known for his sculptures, found in Toulon Cathedral, outside the city hall of Toulon, and in the Louvre. There is a mountain named for him near Marseille, and a square in Toulon. Triptych of the Burning Bush, by Nicolas Froment, in Aix Cathedral (15th century) In the 19th and 20th centuries, many of the most famous painters in the world converged on Provence, drawn by the climate and the clarity of the light. The special quality of the light is partly a result of the Mistral wind, which removes dust from the atmosphere, greatly increasing visibility. „ Adolphe Monticelli (1824•1886) was born in Marseille, moved to Paris in 1846 and returned to Marseille in 1870. His work influenced Vincent van Gogh who greatly admired him.[31] „ Paul C‚zanne (1839•1906) was born in Aix-en-Provence, and lived and worked there most of his life. The local landscapes, particularly Montagne Sainte-Victoire, featured often in his work. He also painted frequently at L'Estaque. Paul C‚zanne, L'Estaque, 1883•1885 Provence 113 „ Vincent van Gogh (1853•1890) lived little more than two years in Provence, but his fame as a painter is largely a result of what he painted there. He lived in Arles from February 1888 to May 1889, and then in Saint-Remy from May 1889 until May 1890. „ Auguste Renoir (1841•1919) visited Beaulieu, Grasse, Saint Raphael and Cannes, before finally settling in Cagnes-sur-Mer in 1907, where he bought a farm in the hills and built a new house and workshop on the grounds. He continued to paint there until his death in 1919. His house is now a museum. „ Henri Matisse (1869•1954) first visited St. Tropez in 1904. In 1917 he settled in Nice, first at the Hotel Beau Rivage, then the Hotel de la Mediterran‚e, then la Villa des Allies in Cimiez. In 1921 he lived in an apartment at 1 place Felix Faure in Nice, next to the flower Cafe Terrace at Night, September 1888 market and overlooking the sea, where he lived until 1938. He then moved to the Hotel Regina in the hills of Cimiez, above Nice. During World War II he lived in Vence, then returned to Cimiez, where he died and is buried. „ Pablo Picasso (1881•1973) spent each summer from 1919 to 1939 on the CŒte d'Azur, and moved there permanently in 1946, first at Vallauris, then at Mougins, where he spent his last years. „ Pierre Bonnard (1867•1947) retired to and died at Le Cannet. „ Georges Braque (1882•1963) painted frequently at L'Estaque between 1907 and 1910. „ Henri-Edmond Cross (1856•1910) discovered the CŒte d'Azur in Paul Signac, The Port of Saint-Tropez, oil on canvas, 1901 1883 and painted at Monaco and Hy€res. „ Maurice Denis (1870•1943) painted at St. Tropez and Bandol. „ Andr‚ Derain (1880•1954) painted at L'Estaque and Martigues. „ Raoul Dufy (1877•1953), whose wife was from Nice, painted in Forcalquier, Marseille and Martigues. „ Albert Marquet (1873•1947) painted at Marseille, St. Tropez and L'Estaque. „ Claude Monet (1840•1927) visited Menton, Bordighera, Juan-les-Pins, Monte-Carlo, Nice, Cannes, Beaulieu and Villefranche, and painted a number of seascapes of Cap Martin, near Menton, and at Cap d'Antibes. „ Edvard Munch (1863•1944) visited and painted in Nice and Monte-Carlo (where he developed a passion for gambling), and rented a villa at Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat in 1891. „ Paul Signac (1863•1935) visited St. Tropez in 1892, and bought a villa, La Hune, at the foot of citadel in 1897. It was at his villa that his friend, Henri Matisse, painted his famous Luxe, Calme et Volupt•" in 1904. Signac made numerous paintings along the coast. „ Pierre Deval (1897•1993), a French modernist and figurist painter, lived and worked at the Domaine d'Orv€s in La Valette-du-Var from 1925 until his death in 1993. „ Nicolas de Staˆl (1914•1955) lived in Nice and Antibes. „ Yves Klein (1928•1962), a native of Nice, is considered an important figure in post-war European art. „ Sacha Sosno (b. 1937) is a French painter and sculptor living and working in Nice. Source and Bibliography about artists on the Mediterranean „ M•diterran•e de Courbet › Matisse, catalogue of the exhibit at the Grand Palais, Paris from September 2000 to January 2001. Published by the R‚union des mus‚es nationaux, 2000. Provence Film Provence has a special place in the history of the motion picture • one of the first projected motion pictures, L'Arriv•e d'un train en gare de La Ciotat (eng: the entry of a train into the station of Ciotat), a fifty-second silent film, was made by Auguste and Louis Lumi€re at the train station of the coastal town of La Ciotat. It was shown to an audience in Paris on 28 December 1895, causing a sensation.[32] Before its commercial premiere in Paris, the film was shown to invited audiences in several French cities, including La Ciotat. It was shown at the Eden Theater in September 1895, making that theatre one of the first motion picture theatres, and the only of the first theatres still showing movies in 2009.[33] Three other of the earliest Lumiere films, Partie de cartes, l'Arroseur arros• (the first known filmed comedy), and Repas de b•b•, were also filmed in La Ciotat in 1895, at the Villa du Clos des Plages, the summer residence of the Lumi€re Brothers. Two modern French film classics particularly capture the idyllic qualities of Provence: Jean de Florette and its sequel Manon des Sources. A modern day British film, "A Good Year", shows off the true beauty of Provence and its vineyards. Parks and gardens in Provence Main article: Gardens of Provence-Alpes-CŒte d'Azur Cuisine The cuisine of Provence is the result of the warm, dry Mediterranean climate; the rugged landscape, good for grazing sheep and goats but, outside of the RhŒne Valley, with poor soil for large-scale agriculture; and the abundant seafood on the coast. The basic ingredients are olives and olive oil; garlic; sardines, rockfish, sea urchins and octopus; lamb and goat; chickpeas; local fruits, such as grapes, peaches, apricots, strawberries, cherries, and the famous melons of Cavaillon. The fish frequently found on menus in Provence are the rouget, a small red fish usually eaten grilled, and the loup, (known elsewhere in France as the bar), often grilled with fennel over the wood of grapevines. „ A†oli is a thick emulsion sauce made from olive oil flavoured with crushed garlic. It often accompanies a bourride, a fish soup, or is served with potatoes and cod (fr. Morue). There are as many recipes as there are families in Provence. „ Bouillabaisse is the classic seafood dish of Marseille. The traditional version is made with three fish: scorpionfish, sea robin, and European conger, plus an assortment of other fish and shellfish, such as John Dory, monkfish, sea urchins, crabs and sea spiders An A†oli made of garlic, salt, egg yolk and olive included for flavour. The seasoning is as important as the fish, oil including salt, pepper, onion, tomato, saffron, fennel, sage, thyme, bay laurel, sometimes orange peel, and a cup of white wine or cognac. In Marseille the fish and the broth are served separately • the broth is served over thick slices of bread with rouille (see below.)[34] „ Brandade de Morue is a thick cream made of cod crushed and mixed with olive oil, milk, garlic and sometimes truffles. 114 Provence 115 „ Daube proven…ale is a stew made with cubed beef braised in wine, vegetables, garlic, and herbes de provence. Variations also call for olives, prunes, and flavouring with duck fat, vinegar, brandy, lavender, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, juniper berries, or orange peel. For best flavour, it is cooked in several stages, and cooled for a day between each stage to allow the flavours to meld together. In the Camargue area of France, bulls killed in the bullfighting festivals are sometimes used for daube. „ Escabeche is another popular seafood dish; the fish (usually sardines) are either poached or fried after being marinated overnight in vinegar or citrus juice. Pissaladi€re „ Fougasse is the traditional bread of Provence, round and flat with holes cut out by the baker. Modern versions are baked with olives or nuts inside. „ Oursinade is the name of a sauce based on the coral of the sea urchin, and usually is used with fish, and also refers to a tasting of sea urchins. „ La pissaladiƒre is another speciality of Nice. Though it resembles a pizza, it is made with bread dough and the traditional variety never has a tomato topping. It is usually sold in bakeries, and is topped with a bed of onions, lightly browned, and a kind of paste, called pissalat, made from sardines and anchovies, and the small black olives of Nice, called caillettes. A bowl of ratatouille with bread „ Ratatouille is a traditional dish of stewed vegetables, which originated in Nice.[35] „ Rouille is a mayonnaise with red pimentos, often spread onto bread and added to fish soups. „ Socca is a speciality of Nice • it is a round flat cake made of chickpea flour and olive oil, like the Italian farinata. It is baked in the oven in a large pan more than a meter in diameter, then seasoned with pepper and eaten with the fingers while hot. In Toulon socca is [36] known as La Cade. Socca of Nice also known as La Cade in Toulon „ Soupe au pistou, either cold or hot, usually made with fresh basil ground and mixed with olive oil, along with summer vegetables, such as white beans, green beans, tomatoes, summer squash, and potatoes. „ Tapenade is a relish consisting of pureed or finely chopped olives, capers, and olive oil, usually spread onto bread and served as an hors d'«uvre. The Calissons from Aix „ The calisson is the traditional biscuit of Aix-en-Provence, made from a base of almond paste flavoured with confit of melon and orange. They have been made in Aix-en-Provence since the 17th century. „ The g‰teau des Rois is a type of epiphany cake found all over France; the Proven…al version is different because it is made of brioche in a ring, flavoured with the essence of orange flowers and covered with sugar and fruit confit. „ The tarte Trop€zienne is a tart of pastry cream (cr€me p‰tissi€re) invented by a St. Tropez pastry chef named Alexandre Micka in the 1950s, based on a recipe he brought from his native Poland. In 1955, he was chef on the Provence 116 set of the film And God Created Woman when actress Brigitte Bardot suggested he name the cake La Trop‚zienne. It is now found in bakeries throughout the Var.[37] „ The Thirteen desserts is a Christmas tradition in Provence, when thirteen different dishes, representing Jesus and the twelve apostles, and each with a different significance, are served after the large Christmas meal. „ Herbes de Provence (or Proven•al herbs) are a mixture of dried herbs from Provence which are commonly used in Proven…al cooking. Wines Main article: Provence wine The wines of Provence were probably introduced into Provence around 600 BC by the Greek Phoceans who founded Marseille and Nice. After the Roman occupation, in 120 BC the Roman Senate forbade the growing of vines and olives in Provence, to protect the profitable trade in exporting Italian wines, but in the late Roman empire retired [38] soldiers from Roman Legions settled in Provence and were allowed to grow grapes. The Romans complained about the competition from and poor quality of the wines of Provence. In the 1st century AD the Roman poet Martial condemned the wines of Marseille as "terrible poisons, and never sold at a good price."[39] As recently as the 1970s the wines of Provence had the reputation of being rather ordinary: In 1971 wine critic Hugh Johnson wrote: "The whites are dry and can lack the acidity to be refreshing; the reds are straightforward, strong and a trifle dull; it is usually the ros‚s, often orange-tinted, which have most appeal." He added, "Cassis and Bandol distinguish themselves for their white and red wines respectively. Cassis (no relation of the blackcurrant syrup) is livelier than the run of Proven…al white wine, and Bandol leads the red in much the same way."[40] Vineyards near Montagne St. Victoire, producing wines of the AOL CŒtes de Provence Since that time, cultivation of poorer varieties has been reduced and new technologies and methods have improved the quality considerably. The wines of Provence are grown under demanding conditions; hot weather and abundant sunshine (Toulon, near Bandol, has the most sunshine of any city in France) which ripens the grapes quickly; little rain, and the mistral. The great majority of the wines produced in Provence are ros‚s. The most characteristic grape is mourv€dre, used most famously in the red wines of Bandol. Cassis is the only area in Provence known for its white wines. There are three regional classifications (Appellation d'origine contrŒl‚e (AOC)) in Provence: „ AOC C„tes de Provence. This AOC classification dates to 1997, though these wines were recognised in the 17th and 18th century, notably by Madame de S‚vign‚, who reported the habits and preferred wines of the Court of Louis XIV. The title CŒtes de Provence was already in use in 1848, but production was nearly destroyed by phylloxera later in that century, and took decades to recover. The appellation today covers 84 communes in the Var and Bouches-du-RhŒne departments, and one in Alpes-Maritimes. The principal grapes used in the red wines are the grenache, mourv€dre, cinsault, tibouren, and syrah. For the white wines, clairette, vermentino, s‚millon, and ugni blanc. The appellation covers 20,300 hectares. 80 percent of the production is ros‚ wine, fifteen percent is red wine, and 5 percent white wine. „ AOC Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence was classified as an AOC in 1985. The wines of Aix were originally planted by veterans of the Roman legions in the 1st century BC, and were promoted in the 15th century by Ren‚ I of Naples, the last ruler of Provence. Most vineyards were destroyed by phylloxera in the 19th century, and very slowly were reconstituted. The principal grapes for the red wines and ros‚s are the grenache, mourv€dre, cinsault, Provence syrah, counoise, carignan, and cabernet sauvignon. White wines are made mainly with bourboulenc, clairette, grenache blanc, and vermentino. There are 4000 hectares in production. 70 percent of the wines are ros‚s, 25 percent red wines, and 5 percent white wines. „ AOC Coteaux varois en Provence is a recent AOC in Provence. The name Coteaux Varois was first used in 1945, and became an AOC in 1993. the name was changed to Couteaux Varois en Provence in 2005. The red wines principally use the grenache, cinsaut, mourv€dre, and syrah grapes. White wines use the clairette, grenache blanc, rolle blanc, S‚millon Blanc, and Ugni Blanc. There are 2200 hectares in this AOL. It produces 80 percent ros‚s, 17 percent red wines, and 3 percent white wines. In addition, there are five local classifications: (Les appellations locales): „ Bandol AOC, grown in the Var on the coast west of Toulon, mostly around the villages of La Cadiere d'Azur and Castellet. Wines of this appellation must have at least fifty percent Mourv€dre grapes, though most have considerably more. Other grapes used are grenache, cinsault, syrah, and carignan. „ AOC Cassis, made near the coastal town of Cassis, between Toulon and Marseille, was the first wine in Provence to be classified as an AOC in 1936, and is best known for its white wines. Wines from Cassis are described in French literature as early as the 12th century. The grapes most commonly used are the marsanne, the clairette, the ugni blanc, sauvignon blanc, and the Bourboulenc. Ros‚ wines use the grenache, carignan, and mourv€dre. „ AOC Bellet; at the time of the French Revolution, the little town of Saint Roman de Bellet (now part of Nice) was the center of an important wine region. Production was nearly destroyed by the phylloxera and by the two wars, and only in 1946 was the region again producing fully. It was classified as an AOC in 1941. Today the region is one of the smallest in France; just 47 hectares. The grapes are grown on terraces along the left bank of the Var River, east of the town. The major grapes grown for red wines and ros‚s are the braquet, Folle, and Cinsault, blended sometimes with grenache. For white wines, the major grapes grown are rolle blanc, roussane, spagnol, and mayorquin; the secondary grapes are clairette, bourboulenc, chardonnay, pignerol, and muscat. „ Palette AOC; the little village of Palete, four kilometres east of Aix-en-Provence, has long been famous for the production of a vin cuit, or fortified wine, used in the traditional Provence Christmas dessert, the Thirteen desserts, and the Christmas cake called pompo ‡ l'oli, or the olive-oil pump. This production was nearly abandoned, but is now being recreated. The main grapes for red wine are grenache, mourv€dre, and cinsaut; for the white wines clairette. „ AOC Les Baux de Provence; was established as an AOC for red and ros‚ wines in 1995. South of Avignon, it occupies the north and south slopes of the Alpilles, up to an altitude of 400 metres, and extends about thirty kilometres from east to west. The principal grapes for the red wines are the grenache, mourv€dre, and syrah. For the ros‚s, the main grapes are the syrah and cinsault. 117 Provence 118 Pastis Pastis is the traditional liqueur of Provence, flavoured with anise and typically containing 40•45% alcohol by volume. When absinthe was banned in France in 1915, the major absinthe producers (then Pernod Fils and Ricard, who have since merged as Pernod Ricard) reformulated their drink without the banned wormwood and with more aniseed flavour, coming from star anise, sugar and a lower alcohol content, creating pastis. It is usually drunk diluted with water, which it turns a cloudy color. It is especially popular in and around Marseille. P€tanque or boules P‚tanque, a form of boules, is a popular sport played in towns and villages all over Provence. The origins of the game are said to be ancient, going back to the Egyptians, ancient Greeks, and Ancient Romans, who are said to have introduced it to Provence first. The sport was very popular during the Middle Ages throughout Europe, known as bowls or lawn bowling in England, and as boules in France. A more athletic version of the sport called jeu proven€al was popular throughout Provence in the 19th century • this version is featured in the novels and memoires of Marcel Pagnol; players ran three steps before throwing the ball, and it resembled at times a form of ballet. The modern version of the game was created in 1907 at the town of La Ciotat by a former champion of jeu proven€al named Jules Hugues, who was unable to play because of his rheumatism. He devised a new set of rules where the field was much smaller, and players did not run before throwing the ball, but remained inside a small circle with their feet together. This gave the game its name, lei peds tancats, in the Proven…al dialect of occitan, 'feet together.' The first tournament was played in La Ciotat in 1910. The first steel boules were introduced in 1927. A glass of diluted pastis Men playing p‚tanque next to the Port St. Louis in Toulon The object is to throw a ball (boule) as close as possible to a smaller ball, called the cochonnet, (this kind of throw is called to faire le point or pointer); or to knock away a boules of the opponent that is close to the cochonnet (this is called Cochonnet next to the boule to tirer). Players compete one-on-one (t…te-†-t…te), in teams of two (doublettes) or teams of three (triplettes). The object is to accumulate thirteen points. The point belongs to the ball the closest to the cochonnet. A player pitches balls until he can regain the point (reprenne le point) by having his ball closest to the cochonnet. Each ball from a single team, if there are no other balls from the other team closer to the cochonnet, counts as a point. The points are counted when all of the balls have been tossed by both teams.[41] Genetics A recent genetic study in 2011 analysed 51 southern French individuals from Provence and 89 Anatolian Greek subjects whose paternal ancestry derives from Smyrna and Asia Minor Phokaia, the ancestral embarkation port to the 6th century BCE ancient Greek colonies of Massalia (Marseilles) and Alalie (Aleria, Corsica). The study found that 17% of the Y-chromosomes of Provence may be attributed to Greek colonisation. The study also concluded that "estimates of colonial Greek vs indigenous Celto-Ligurian demography predict a maximum of a 10% Greek contribution, suggesting a Greek male elite-dominant input into the Iron Age Provence population." This evidence supports the persistence of the gene pool of the Ancient Greeks among the modern southern French. Provence Sources and references [1] See article on Provence in the French-language Wikipedia. [2] Le Petit Robert, Dictionnaire Universel des Noms Propres (1988). [3] Eduouard Baratier (editor), Histoire de la Provence, Editions Privat, Toulouse, 1990, Introduction. [4] Max Escalon de Fonton, L'Homme avant l'histoire, article in Histoire de la Provence, edited by Edouard Baratier, Editions Privat, Toulouse, 1990. Pg. 14 See also Henry de Lumley, La Grand Histoire des premiers hommes europ•ens, Odile Jacob, Paris, 2010 [5] Max Escalon de Fonton, L'Homme avant l'histoire, pg. 15 [6] Escalon de Fonton, L'Homme avant l'histoire, pg. 16•17 [7] Aldo Basti‚, Histoire de la Provence, Editions Ouest-France, 2001 [8] J.R. Palanque, Ligures, Celts et Grecs, in Histoire de la Provence. Pg. 33. [9] J. Cited by R. Palanque, Ligures, Celts et Grecs, in Histoire de la Provence. Pg. 34. [10] J. R. Palanque, Ligures, Celts et Grecs, in Histoire de la Provence. Pg. 34. [11] J. R. Palanque, Ligures, Celts et Grecs, in Histoire de la Provence. Pg. 34 [12] J.R. Palanque, Ligures, Celtes et Grecs, in Histoire de la Provence, pg. 39. [13] R. Palanque, Ligures, Celtes et Grecs, in Histoire de la Provence, pg. 41. [14] R. Palanque, Ligures, Celtes et Grecs, in Histoire de la Provence, pg. 44. [15] Basti‚, Histoire de la Provence, pg. 9 [16] Aldo Basti‚, Histoire de la Provence, (pg. 13.) [17] Histoire de la Provence, pg. 16 [18] Bastiª, Histoire de la Provence [19] Bastiª, Histoire de la Provence, pg. 20. [20] Basti‚, Histoire de la Provence, (pg. 35) [21] Edward Baratier, Histoire de la Provence, 6•7. [22] See Mediterranean climate. [23] Precipitations a Toulon (http:/ / www. infoclimat. fr/ climatologie/ index. php?s=07660& aff=details). [24] M‚t‚o-France. site [25] from the article "Provence" in the French-language Wikipedia. [26] Atlantic Brief Lives, A Biographical Companion to the Arts, pg. 204, Atlantic Monthly Press, 1971. [27] "Troika: Russia‚s westerly poetry in three orchestral song cycles" (http:/ / www. amazon. fr/ dp/ B005USB24A), Rideau Rouge Records, ASIN: B005USB24A, 2011. [28] Aldo Basti‚, Histoire de la Provence, Editions Ouest-France, 2001. [29] Fixot, Michel, and Sauze, Elisabeth, 2004: La cath•drale Saint-L•once et le groupe •piscopale de Fr•jus. Monum, •ditions du patrimoine. [30] The cult of Mary Magdalene was very important in medieval Provence; What was believed to be her sarcophagus had been found in a Gallo-Roman crypt in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume in 1279, and the construction of a large church, the Basilica Sainte Marie-Madeleine, was begun on the spot in 1295. [31] See exhibition "Van Gogh • Monticelli" in Marseille's Centre de la Vieille Charit•, Sep 2008 • Jan 2009 (http:/ / www. rmn. fr/ Van-Gogh-et-Monticelli-Centre-de) [32] * Complete film (http:/ / www. youtube. com/ watch?v=1dgLEDdFddk) on YouTube „ The Lumiere Institute, Lyon, France (http:/ / www. institut-lumiere. org/ ) [33] "...Onze autres projections en France (Paris, Lyon, La Ciotat, Grenoble) et en Belgique (Bruxelles, Louvain) auront lieu avec un programme de films plus ‚toff‚ durant l'ann‚e 1895, avant la premi€re commerciale du 28 d‚cembre, remportant ‡ chaque fois le mŠme succ€s." From the site of the Institut Lumiere in Lyon. see Site of the Institut Lumiere (http:/ / www. institut-lumiere. org/ ) [34] See the Michelin Guide Vert, CŒte d'Azur, pg.31 (in French), for this classic version. There are countless others. [35] Ratatouille. Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd edition. [36] Socca [37] Targe trop‚zienne [38] Cicero, Book III Chapter 9 of De Republica, quoted in Histore sociale et culturelle du Vin, Gilbert Garrier, Larousse, 1998. [39] Martial, Epigrams X-36, cited by Garrier, op.cit. [40] Hugh Johnson, The World Atlas of Wine, Mitchell Beazley Publishers, 1971 [41] Marco Foyot, Alain Dupuy, Louis Dalmas, P•tanque • Technique,Tactique, Entrainement Robert Laffont, Paris 1984. This seems to be the definitive book on the subject, co-written by p‚tanque champion Marco Foyot. 119 Provence Bibliography „ „ „ „ „ Edouard Baratier (editor), Histoire de la Provence, Editions Privat, Toulouse, 1990 (ISBN 2-7089-1649-1) Aldo Basti‚, Histoire de la Provence, Editions Ouest-France, 2001. Michel Verg‚-Franceschi, Toulon • Port Royal (1481•1789). Tallandier: Paris, 2002. Cyrille Roumagnac, L'Arsenal de Toulon et la Royale, Editions Alan Sutton, 2001 Jim Ring, Riviera, The Rise and Fall of the C„te d'Azur, John Murray Publishers, London 2004 „ Marco Foyot, Alain Dupuy, Louis Dalmas, P•tanque • Technique, Tactique, Entrainement, Robert Laffont, Paris, 1984. „ Denizeau, Gerard, Histoire Visuelle des Monuments de France, Larousse, 2003 „ LeMoine, Bertrand, Guide d'architecture, France, 20e siecle, Picard, Paris 2000 „ Jean-Louis Andr‚, Jean-Fran…ois Mallet, Jean daniel Sudres, Cuisines des pays de France, •ditions du ChŠne, Hachette Livre, Paris 2001 „ Prosper M‚rim‚e, Notes de voyages, ed. Pierre-Marie Auzas (1971) „ Martin Garrett, Provence: a Cultural History (2006) „ James Pope-Hennessy, Aspects of Provence (1988) „ Laura Raison (ed.), The South of France: an Anthology (1985) External links Media related to Provence at Wikimedia Commons „ Official Provence area Tourist Board (http://www.provenceguide.co.uk/) Provence area Tourist Board „ Official PACA Tourist Board (http://www.decouverte-paca.fr/us/) Provence Alpes CŒte d'Azur Tourist Board „ Areas of Provence (http://www.aixenprovencetourism.com/uk/aix-provence.htm) Aix-en-Provence Tourist Office „ Tours of Provence (http://onedayinprovence.com) Tours in Provence „ Visit Provence (http://www.visitprovence.com/en) Visit Provence 120 Alsace 121 Alsace For other uses, see Alsace (disambiguation). "Elsa¬" redirects here. For the battleship, see SMS Elsa¬. Alsace Region of France Flag Coat of arms Country Prefecture ‘France Strasbourg Departments Government ‚€‚President Philippe Richert (2010•) (UMP) Area ‚€‚Total 2 8,280‘km (3,200‘sq‘mi) Population (2006) ‚€‚Total 1,815,488 ‚€‚Density 220/km2 (570/sq‘mi) Demonym Alsatian Time zone CET (UTC+1) ‚€‚Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) ISO 3166 code FR-A GDP‚(2012) Ranked 12th Total ƒ53.6 billion (US$69.0 bn) Per capita ƒ28,849 (US$37,105) NUTS Region FR4 Website region-alsace.eu [1] Alsace Alsace (French: Alsace [al.zas]‘( ); Alsatian: €s Elsass [’‰ls•s]; German: Elsass, pre-1996: Elsaœ [’‰lzas]‘( ); 2 Latin: Alsatia) is the fifth-smallest of the 27 regions of France in land area (8,280‘km ), and the smallest in metropolitan France. It is also the seventh-most densely populated region in France and third most densely populated region in metropolitan France, with ca. 220 inhabitants per km2 (total population in 2006: 1,815,488; 1 January 2008 estimate: 1,836,000). Alsace is located on France's eastern border and on the west bank of the upper Rhine adjacent to Germany and Switzerland. Historical decisions, wars, and strategic politics have resulted in Alsace being administered as a "region" within the Republic of France. The political, economic and cultural capital as well as largest city of Alsace is Strasbourg. Because that city is the seat of dozens of international organizations and bodies, Alsace is politically one of the most important regions in the European Union. The name "Alsace" can be traced to the Old High German Ali-saz or Elisaz, meaning "foreign domain". An alternative explanation is from a Germanic Ell-sass, meaning "seated on the Ill",[2] a river in Alsace. The region, as part of Lorraine, was part of the Holy Roman Empire, and then was gradually annexed by France in the 17th century, and formalized as one of the provinces of France. The Calvinist manufacturing republic of Mulhouse, known as Stadtrepublik M•lhausen, become a part of Alsace after a vote by its citizens on 4 January 1798. Alsace is frequently mentioned with and as part of Lorraine and the former duchy of Lorraine, since it was a vital part of the duchy, and later because German possession as the imperial province (Alsace-Lorraine, 1871•1918) was contested in the 19th and 20th centuries; France and Germany exchanged control of parts of Lorraine (including Alsace) four times in 75 years. The historical language of Alsace is Alsatian, a Germanic (mainly Alemannic) dialect spoken in Lorraine and across the Rhine, but today most Alsatians speak French, the official language of France. 43% of the adult population, and 3% of children (3•17 years old), stated in 2012 that they speak Alsatian.[3][4] The place names used in this article are in French; for the German place names, see German place names (Alsace). History Roman Alsace In prehistoric times, Alsace was inhabited by nomadic hunters, but by 1500 BC,Wikipedia:Citation needed Celts began to settle in Alsace, clearing and cultivating the land. By 58 BC, the Romans had invaded and established Alsace as a center of viticulture. To protect this highly valued industry, the Romans built fortifications and military camps that evolved into various communities which have been inhabited continuously to the present day. While part of the Roman Empire, Alsace was part of Germania Superior. Frankish Alsace Main article: Duchy of Alsace With the decline of the Roman Empire, Alsace became the territory of the Germanic Alemanni. The Alemanni were agricultural people, and their language formed the basis of modern-day dialects spoken along the Upper Rhine (Alsatian, Alemannian, Swabian, Swiss). Clovis and the Franks defeated the Alemanni during the 5th century AD, culminating with the Battle of Tolbiac, and Alsace became part of the Kingdom of Austrasia. Under Clovis' Merovingian successors the inhabitants were Christianized. Alsace remained under Frankish control until the Frankish realm, following the Oaths of Strasbourg of 842, was formally dissolved in 843 at the Treaty of Verdun; the grandsons of Charlemagne divided the realm into three parts. Alsace formed part of the Middle Francia, which was ruled by the youngest grandson Lothar I. Lothar died early in 855 and his realm was divided into three parts. The part known as Lotharingia, or Lorraine, was given to Lothar's son. The rest was shared between Lothar's brothers Charles the Bald (ruler of the West Frankish realm) and Louis the German (ruler of the East Frankish realm). The Kingdom of Lotharingia was short-lived, however, becoming the stem duchy of Lorraine in Eastern Francia after the 122 Alsace Treaty of Ribemont in 880. Alsace was united with the other Alemanni east of the Rhine into the stem duchy of Swabia. Alsace within the Holy Roman Empire At about this time the surrounding areas experienced recurring fragmentation and reincorporations among a number of feudal secular and ecclesiastical lordships, a common process in the Holy Roman Empire. Alsace experienced great prosperity during the 12th and 13th centuries under Hohenstaufen emperors. Frederick I set up Alsace as a province (a procuratio, not a provincia) to be ruled by ministeriales, a non-noble class of civil servants. The idea was that such men would be more tractable and less likely to alienate the fief from the crown out of their own greed. The province had a single provincial court (Landgericht) and a central administration with its seat at Hagenau. Frederick II designated the Bishop of Strasbourg to administer Alsace, but the authority of the bishop was challenged by Count Rudolph of Habsburg, who received his rights from Frederick II's son Conrad IV. Strasbourg began to grow to become the most populous and commercially important town in the region. In 1262, after a long struggle with the ruling bishops, its citizens gained the status of free imperial city. A stop on the Paris-Vienna-Orient trade route, as well as a port on the Rhine route linking southern Germany and Switzerland to the Netherlands, England and Scandinavia, it became the political and economic center of the region. Cities such as Colmar and Hagenau also began to grow in economic importance and gained a kind of autonomy within the "Decapole" or "Dekapolis", a federation of ten free towns. As in much of Europe, the prosperity of Alsace came to an end in the 14th century by a series of harsh winters, bad harvests, and the Black Death. These hardships were blamed on Jews, leading to the pogroms of 1336 and 1339. In 1349, Jews of Alsace were accused of poisoning the wells with plague, leading to the massacre of thousands of Jews during the Strasbourg pogrom. Jews were subsequently forbidden to settle in the town. An additional natural disaster was the Rhine rift earthquake of 1356, one of Europe's worst which made ruins of Basel. Prosperity returned to Alsace under Habsburg administration during the Renaissance. German central power had begun to decline following years of imperial adventures in Italian lands, ceding hegemony in Europe to France, which had long since centralized power. France began an aggressive policy of expanding eastward, first to the RhŒne and Meuse Rivers, and when those borders were reached, aiming for the Rhine. In 1299, the French proposed a marriage alliance between Philip IV of France's sister Blanche and Albert I of Germany's son Rudolf, with Alsace to be the dowry; however, the deal never came off. In 1307, the town of Belfort was first chartered by the Counts of Montb‚liard. Petite-France, Strasbourg During the next century, France was to be militarily shattered by the Hundred Years' War, which prevented for a time any further tendencies in this direction. After the conclusion of the war, France was again free to pursue its desire to reach the Rhine and in 1444 a French army appeared in Lorraine and Alsace. It took up winter quarters, demanded the submission of Metz and Strasbourg and launched an attack on Basel. In 1469, following the Treaty of St. Omer, Upper Alsace was sold by Archduke Sigismund of Austria to Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy. Although Charles was the nominal landlord, taxes were paid to Frederick III, Holy Roman Emperor. The latter was able to use this tax and a dynastic marriage to his advantage to gain back full control of Upper Alsace (apart from the free towns, but including Belfort) in 1477 when it became part of the demesne of the Habsburg family, who were also rulers of the empire. The town of Mulhouse joined the Swiss Confederation in 1515, where it was to remain until 1798. By the time of the Protestant Reformation in the 16th century, Strasbourg was a prosperous community, and its inhabitants accepted Protestantism in 1523. Martin Bucer was a prominent Protestant reformer in the region. His 123 Alsace 124 efforts were countered by the Roman Catholic Habsburgs who tried to eradicate heresy in Upper Alsace. As a result, Alsace was transformed into a mosaic of Catholic and Protestant territories. On the other hand, M¨mpelgard (Montb‚liard) to the southwest of Alsace, belonging to the Counts of W¢rttemberg since 1397, remained a Protestant enclave in France until 1793. Incorporation into France This situation prevailed until 1639, when most of Alsace was conquered by France so as to keep it out of the hands of the Spanish Habsburgs, who wanted a clear road to their valuable and rebellious possessions in the Spanish Netherlands. The French in the context of the Thirty Years' War (1618•48). Beset by enemies and seeking to gain a free hand in Hungary, the Habsburgs sold their Sundgau territory (mostly in Upper Alsace) to France in 1646, which had occupied it, for the sum of 1.2‘million Thalers. When hostilities were concluded in 1648 with the Treaty of Westphalia, most of Alsace was recognized as part of France, although some towns remained independent. The treaty stipulations regarding Alsace were complex; although the French king gained sovereignty, existing rights and customs of the inhabitants were largely preserved. France continued to maintain it customs boundary along the Vosges mountains where it had been, leaving Alsace more economically oriented to neighbouring German-speaking lands. The German language remained in use in local administration, in schools, and at the (Lutheran) University of Strasbourg, which continued to draw students from other German-speaking lands. The 1685 Edict of Fontainebleau, by which the French king ordered the suppression of French Protestantism, was not applied in Alsace. France did endeavour to promote Catholicism; Strasbourg Cathedral, for example, which had been Lutheran from 1524 to 1681, was returned to the Catholic Church. However, compared to the rest of France, Alsace enjoyed a climate of religious tolerance. The warfare that had partially depopulated the region created opportunities for a stream of immigrants from Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Lorraine, Savoy and other lands that continued until the mid-18th century.Wikipedia:Citation needed Between 1671 and 1711 Anabaptist refugees came from Switzerland, notably from Bern.Wikipedia:Citation needed Strasbourg became a main centre of the early Anabaptist movement.Wikipedia:Citation needed France consolidated its hold with the 1679 Treaties of Nijmegen, which brought most remaining towns under its control. France seized Strasbourg in 1681 in an unprovoked action. These territorial changes were recognised in the 1697 Treaty of Ryswick that ended the War of the Grand Alliance. Louis XIV receiving the keys of Strasbourg in 1681 Alsace 125 French Revolution The year 1789 brought the French Revolution and with it the first division of Alsace into the d‚partements of Haut- and Bas-Rhin. Alsatians played an active role in the French Revolution. On 21 July 1789, after receiving news of the Storming of the Bastille in Paris, a crowd of people stormed the Strasbourg city hall, forcing the city administrators to flee and putting symbolically an end to the feudal system in Alsace. In 1792, Rouget de Lisle composed in Strasbourg the Revolutionary marching song "La Marseillaise" (as Marching song for the Army of the Rhine), which later became the anthem of France. "La Marseillaise" was played for the first time in April of that year in front of the mayor of Strasbourg Philippe-Fr‚d‚ric de Dietrich. Some of the most famous generals of the French Revolution also came from Alsace, notably Kellermann, the victor of Valmy, Kl‚ber, who led the armies of the French Republic in Vend‚e and Westermann, who also fought in the Vend‚e. Alsatian sign, 1792: Freiheit Gleichheit Br•derlichk. od. Tod (Liberty Equality Fraternity or Death) At the same time, some Alsatians were in opposition to the Jacobins and sympathetic to the invading forces of Austria and Prussia who Tod den Tyranen (Death to Tyrants) Heil den V•lkern (Long live the Peoples) sought to crush the nascent revolutionary republic. Many of the residents of the Sundgau made "pilgrimages" to places like Mariastein Abbey, near Basel, in Switzerland, for baptisms and weddings. When the French Revolutionary Army of the Rhine was victorious, tens of thousands fled east before it. When they were later permitted to return (in some cases not until 1799), it was often to find that their lands and homes had been confiscated. These conditions led to emigration by hundreds of families to newly vacant lands in the Russian Empire in 1803•4 and again in 1808. A poignant retelling of this event based on what Goethe had personally witnessed can be found in his long poem Hermann and Dorothea. In response to the restoration of Napoleon I of France in 1815, Alsace along with other frontier provinces of France [5] was occupied by foreign forces from 1815 to 1818, including over 280,000 soldiers and 90,000 horses in Bas-Rhin alone. This had grave effects on trade and the economy of the region since former overland trade routes were switched to newly opened Mediterranean and Atlantic seaports. The population grew rapidly, from 800,000 in 1814 to 914,000 in 1830 and 1,067,000 in 1846. The combination of economic and demographic factors led to hunger, housing shortages and a lack of work for young people. Thus, it is not surprising that people left Alsace, not only for Paris • where the Alsatian community grew in numbers, with famous members such as Baron Haussmann • but also for more distant places like Russia and the Austrian Empire, to take advantage of the new opportunities offered there: Austria had conquered lands in Eastern Europe from the Ottoman Empire and offered generous terms to colonists as a way of consolidating its hold on the new territories. Many Alsatians also began to sail to the United States, settling in many areas from 1820 to 1850.[6] In 1843 and 1844, sailing ships bringing immigrant families from Alsace arrived at the port of New York. Some settled in Illinois, many to farm or to seek success in commercial ventures: for example, the sailing ships Sully (in May 1843) and Iowa (in June 1844) brought families who set up homes in northern Illinois and northern Indiana. Some Alsatian immigrants were noted for their roles in 19th-century American economic development. Others ventured to Canada to settle in southwestern Ontario, notably Waterloo County. Alsace 126 Jews Main article: History of the Jews in Alsace By 1790, the Jewish population of Alsace was approximately 22,500, about 3% of the provincial population. They were highly segregated and subject to long-standing anti-Jewish regulations. They maintained their own customs, Yiddish language, and historic traditions within the tightly-knit ghettos; they adhered to Talmudic law enforced by their rabbis. Jews were barred from most cities and instead lived in villages. They concentrated in trade, services, and especially in money lending. They financed about a third of the mortgages in Alsace. Official tolerance grew during the French Revolution, with full emancipation in 1791. However, local antisemitism also increased and Napoleon turned hostile in 1806, imposing a one-year moratorium on all debts owed to Jews. In the 1830-1870 era most Jews moved to the cities, where they made enormous progress toward integration and acculturation, as antisemitism sharply declined. By 1831, the state began paying salaries to official rabbis, and 1846 a special legal oath for Jews was discontinued. Antisemitic local riots occasionally occurred, especially during the Revolution of 1848. Merger of Alsace into Germany in 1871-1918 lessened antisemitic violence.[7] Between France and Germany Main article: Alsace-Lorraine France started the Franco-Prussian War (1870•71), and was defeated by the Kingdom of Prussia and other German states. The end of the war led to the unification of Germany. Otto von Bismarck annexed [8] Alsace and northern Lorraine to the new German Empire in 1871; unlike other members states of the German federation, which had governments of their own, the new Imperial territory of Alsace-Lorraine was under the sole authority of the Kaiser, administered directly by the imperial government in Berlin. Between 100,000 and 130,000 Alsatians (of a total population of about a million Traditional costumes of Alsace and a half) chose to remain French citizens and leave Reichsland Elsaœ-Lothringen, many of them resettling in French Algeria as Pied-Noirs. Only in 1911 was Alsace-Lorraine granted some measure of autonomy, which was manifested also in a flag and an anthem (Els-ssisches Fahnenlied). In 1913, however, the Saverne Affair (German: Zabern-Aff-re) showed the limits of this new tolerance of the Alsatian identity. An Alsatian woman in traditional costume, photographed by Adolphe Braun During World War I, to avoid ground fights between brothers, many Alsatians served as sailors in the Kaiserliche Marine and took part in the Naval mutinies that led to the abdication of the Kaiser in November 1918, which left Alsace-Lorraine without a nominal head of state. The sailors returned home and tried to found a republic. While Jacques Peirotes, at this time deputy at the Landrat Elsass-Lothringen and just elected mayor of Strasbourg, proclaimed the forfeiture of the German Empire and the advent of the French Republic, a self-proclaimed government of Alsace-Lorraine declared independence as the "Republic of Alsace-Lorraine". French troops entered Alsace less than two weeks later to quash the worker strikes and remove the newly established soviets and revolutionaries from power. At the arrival of the French soldiers, many Alsatians and local Prussian/German administrators and bureaucrats cheered the re-establishment of order (which can be seen and is described in detail in the reference video below).[9] Although U.S. President Woodrow Wilson had Alsace 127 insisted that the r•gion was self-ruling by legal status, as its constitution had stated it was bound to the sole authority of the Kaiser and not to the German state, France tolerated no plebiscite, as granted by the League of Nations to some eastern German territories at this time, because Alsatians were considered by the French public as fellow Frenchmen liberated from German rule. Germany ceded the region to France under the Treaty of Versailles. After World War I, the establishment of German identity in Alsace was reversed, as all Germans who had settled in Alsace since 1871 were expelled.Wikipedia:Citation needed Policies forbidding the use of German and requiring that [10] of French were introduced. However, in order not to antagonize the Alsatians, the region was not subjected to some legal changes that had occurred in the rest of France between 1871 and 1919, such as the 1905 French Law of Separation of Church and State. Alsace-Lorraine was occupied by Germany in 1940 during World War II. Although Germany never formally annexed Alsace-Lorraine, it was incorporated into the Greater German Reich, which had been restructured into Reichsgaue. Alsace was merged with Baden, and Lorraine with the Saarland, to become part of a planned Westmark. During the war, 130,000 young men from Alsace and Lorraine were inducted into the German army and in some cases, the Waffen SS.[11] Today the territory enjoys laws in certain areas that are significantly different from the rest of France • this is known as the local law. German stamps of Hindenburg marked with "Elsa¬" (1940) In more recent years, Alsatian is again being promoted by local, national and European authorities as an element of the region's identity. Alsatian is taught in schools (but not mandatory) as one of the regional languages of France. German is also taught as a foreign language in local kindergartens and schools. However, the Constitution of France still requires that French be the only official language of the Republic. Timeline Year(s) Event Ruled by Official or common language € None 2300•750 BC Bell Beaker cultures € None; Proto-Celtic spoken 750•450 BC Halstatt early Iron Age culture (early Celts) € None; Old Celtic spoken 450•58 BC Celts/Gauls firmly secured in entire Gaul, Alsace; trade with Celts/Gauls None; Gaulish variety of Celtic Greece is evident (Vix) widely spoken 5400•4500 Bandkeramiker/Linear Pottery cultures BC 58 / 44 BC• Alsace and Gaul conquered by Caesar, provinciated to AD 260 Germania Superior Roman Empire Latin; Gallic widely spoken 260•274 Postumus founds breakaway Gallic Empire Gallic Empire Latin, Gallic 274•286 Rome reconquers the Gallic Empire, Alsace Roman Empire Latin, Germanic (only in Argentoratum) 286•378 Diocletian divides the Roman Empire into Western and Roman Empire Eastern sectors around 300 Beginning of Germanic migrations to the Roman Empire Roman Empire 378•395 The Visigoths rebel, precursor to waves of German, and Hun Roman Empire invasions 395•436 Death of Theodosius I, causing a permanent division between Western and Eastern Rome Western Roman Empire 436•486 Germanic invasions of the Western Roman Empire Roman Tributary of Gaul Alsace 128 486•511 Lower Alsace conquered by the Franks Frankish Realm Old Frankish, Latin 531•614 Upper Alsace conquered by the Franks Frankish Realm 614•795 Totality of Alsace to the Frankish Kingdom Frankish Realm 795•814 Charlemagne begins reign, Charlemagne crowned Emperor of the Romans on 25 December 800 Frankish Empire Old Frankish 814 Death of Charlemagne Carolingian Empire Old Frankish, Old High German 847•870 Treaty of Verdun gives Alsace and Lotharingia to Lothar I Middle Francia (Carolingian Frankish, Old High German Empire) 870•889 Treaty of Mersen gives Alsace to East Francia East Francia (German Frankish, Old High German Kingdom of the Carolingian Empire) 889•962 Carolingian Empire breaks up into five Kingdoms, Magyars Kingdom of Germany Old High German, Frankish and Vikings periodically raid Alsace 962•1618 Otto I crowned Holy Roman Emperor Holy Roman Empire Old High German, Modern High German (Alemannic spoken widely) 1618•1674 Louis XIII annexes portions of Alsace during the Thirty Holy Roman Empire German Kingdom of France French Years' War 1674•1871 Louis XIV annexes the rest of Alsace during the Franco-Dutch War, establishing full French sovereignty over the region 1871•1918 1919•1940 (Alsatian and German tolerated) Franco-Prussian war causes French cession of Alsace to German Empire German Empire German Treaty of Versailles causes German cession of Alsace to France French France 1940•1944 Nazi Germany conquers Alsace Nazi Germany German 1945•present French control France French Tourism Having been early and always densely populated, Alsace is famous for its high number of picturesque villages, churches and castles and for the various beauties of its three main towns, in spite of severe destructions suffered throughout five centuries of wars between France and Germany. Alsace is furthermore famous for its vineyards (especially along the 170‘km of the Route des Vins d'Alsace from Marlenheim to Thann) and the Vosges mountains with their thick and green forests and picturesque lakes. „ Old towns of Strasbourg, Colmar, S‚lestat, Guebwiller, Saverne, Obernai „ Smaller cities and villages: Molsheim, Rosheim, Riquewihr, Ribeauvill‚, Kaysersberg, Wissembourg, Neuwiller-l€s-Saverne, Marmoutier, Rouffach, Soultz-Haut-Rhin, Bergheim, Hunspach, Seebach, Turckheim, Eguisheim, Neuf-Brisach, Ferrette, Niedermorschwihr and the gardens of the blue house in Uttenhoffen „ Churches (as main sights in otherwise less remarkable places): Thann, Andlau, Murbach, Ebersmunster, Niederhaslach, Sigolsheim, Lautenbach, Epfig, Altorf, Ottmarsheim, Domfessel, Niederhaslach, Marmoutier and the fortified church at Hunawihr „ Ch‰teau du Haut-K«nigsbourg Ch‰teau du Haut-K«nigsbourg Alsace 129 „ Other castles: Ortenbourg and Ramstein (above S‚lestat), Hohlandsbourg, Fleckenstein, Haut-Barr (above Saverne), Saint-Ulrich (above Ribeauvill‚), Lichtenberg, Wangenbourg, the three Castles of Eguisheim, Pflixbourg, Wasigenstein, Andlau, Grand Geroldseck, Wasenbourg „ Mus‚e de l'automobile de Mulhouse „ Cit‚ du train museum in Mulhouse „ The EDF museum in Mulhouse „ Ungersheim's "•comus•e" (open air museum) and "Bioscope" (leisure park about the environment, closed since September 2012) The main entrance of the Ouvrage Schoenenbourg from the Maginot Line „ Mus‚e historique in Haguenau, largest museum in Bas-Rhin outside Strasbourg „ Biblioth€que humaniste in S‚lestat, one of the oldest public libraries in the world „ Christmas markets in Kaysersberg, Strasbourg, Mulhouse and Colmar „ „ „ „ „ Departmental Centre of the History of Families (CDHF) in Guebwiller The Maginot Line: Ouvrage Schoenenbourg Mount Ste Odile Route des Vins d'Alsace (Alsace Wine Route) M‚morial d'Alsace-Lorraine in Schirmeck „ Natzweiler-Struthof, the only German concentration camp on French territory during WWII „ Famous mountains: Massif du Donon, Grand Ballon, Petit Ballon, Ballon d'Alsace, Hohneck, Hartmannswillerkopf „ National park: Parc naturel des Vosges du Nord „ Regional park: Parc naturel r‚gional des Ballons des Vosges (south of the Vosges) Alsace 130 Climate Alsace has a semi-continental climate with cold and dry winters and hot summers. There is little precipitation because the Vosges protect it from the west. The city of Colmar has a sunny microclimate; it is the second driest city in France, with an annual precipitation of just 550‘mm, making it ideal for vin d'Alsace (Alsatian wine). Topography 2 Alsace has an area of 8,283‘km , making it the smallest r•gion of metropolitan France. It is almost four times longer than it is wide, corresponding to a plain between the Rhine in the east and the Vosges mountains in the west. It includes the d•partements of Haut-Rhin and Bas-Rhin (known previously as Sundgau and Nordgau). It borders Germany on the north and the east, Switzerland and Franche-Comt‚ on the south, and Lorraine on the west. Several valleys are also found in the r•gion. Its highest point is the Grand Ballon in Haut-Rhin, which reaches a height of 1426‘m. Topographic map of Alsace Geology Alsace is the part of the plain of the Rhine located at the west of the Rhine, on its left bank. It is a rift or graben, from the Oligocene epoch, associated with its horsts: the Vosges and the Black Forest. The Jura Mountains, formed by slip (induced by the alpine uplift) of the Mesozoic cover on the Triassic formations, goes through the area of Belfort. The Grand Ballon, southern face, seen from the valley of the Thur Flora It contains many forests, primarily in the Vosges and in Bas-Rhin (Haguenau Forest). Alsace 131 Politics Main article: Alsace Regional Council Alsace is one of the most conservative r•gions of France. It is one of just two r•gions in metropolitan France where the conservative right won the 2004 r•gion elections and thus controls the Alsace Regional Council. Conservative leader Nicolas Sarkozy got his best score in Alsace (over 65%) in the second round of the French presidential elections of 2007. The president of the Regional Council is Philippe Richert, a member of the Union for a Popular Movement, elected in the 2010 regional election. The frequently changing status of the r•gion throughout history has left its mark on modern day politics in terms of a particular interest in national identity issues. Alsace is also one of the most pro-EU regions of France. It was one of the few French regions that voted 'yes' to the European Constitution in 2005. Administrative divisions The Alsace region is divided into 2 departments, 13 departmental arrondissements, 75 cantons (not shown here), and 904 communes: Department of Bas-Rhin (Number of communes in parentheses) „ Arrondissement of Haguenau (56) „ Arrondissement of Molsheim (69) „ Arrondissement of Saverne (128) „ Arrondissement of S‚lestat-Erstein (101) „ Arrondissement of Strasbourg-Campagne (104) [12] „ Arrondissement of Strasbourg-Ville (1) „ Arrondissement of Wissembourg (68) Department of Haut-Rhin (Number of communes in parentheses) „ Arrondissement of Altkirch (111) „ Arrondissement of Colmar (62) „ Arrondissement of Guebwiller (47) „ Arrondissement of Mulhouse (73) „ Arrondissement of Ribeauvill‚ (32) „ Arrondissement of Thann (52) Administrative map of Alsace showing d‚partements, arrondissements and communes Alsace 132 Economy According to the Institut National de la Statistique et des Œtudes Œconomiques (INSEE), Alsace had a gross domestic product of 44.3‘billion euros in 2002. With a GDP per capita of ƒ24,804, it was the second-place r•gion of France, losing only to le-de-France. 68% of its jobs are in the services; 25% are in industry, making Alsace one of France's most industrialised r•gions. Alsace is a r•gion of varied economic activity, including: „ viticulture (mostly along the Route des Vins d'Alsace between Marlenheim and Thann) „ hop harvesting and brewing (half of French beer is produced in Alsace, especially in the vicinity of Strasbourg, notably in Strasbourg-Cronenbourg, Schiltigheim and Obernai) „ forestry development „ automobile industry (Mulhouse) „ life sciences, as part of the trinational BioValley and „ tourism „ potassium chloride (until the late 20th century) and phosphate mining Alsace has many international ties and 35% of firms are foreign companies (notably German, Swiss, American, Japanese, and Scandinavian). Demographics Alsace's population increased to 1,836,000 in 2008. It has regularly increased over time, except in wartime, by both natural growth and migration. This growth has even accelerated at the end of the 20th century. INSEE estimates that its population will grow 12.9% to 19.5% between 1999 and 2030. With a density of 222/km2, Alsace is the third most densely populated r•gion in metropolitan France. Immigration Place of birth of residents of Alsace (at the 1968, 1975, 1982, 1990, 1999, and 2010 censuses) Census Born in Born in the rest Born in Alsace of Metropolitan Overseas France France 71.6% 15.3% Immigrants countries with French citizenship at birth 2010 [b] Born in foreign 0.4% [a] 2.3% 10.4% from Europe from the [c] Maghreb from Turkey from the rest of the world 4.6% 1999 73.6% 15.4% 0.4% 2.4% 1.6% 2.1% 1.8% 8.5% from Europe 4.2% from the [c] Maghreb 1.9% 1990 75.9% 13.4% 0.3% 2.4% 7.9% 1982 76.8% 12.5% 0.3% 2.6% 7.8% from from the Turkey rest of the world 1.3% 1.1% Alsace 133 1975 78.3% 11.6% 0.2% 2.6% 7.3% 1968 81.7% 9.8% 0.1% 2.8% 5.6% ^a Persons born abroad of French parents, such as Pieds-Noirs and children of French expatriates. ^b An immigrant is by French definition a person born in a foreign country and who didn't have French citizenship at birth. Note that an immigrant may have acquired French citizenship since moving to France, but is still listed as an immigrant in French statistics. On the other hand, persons born in France with foreign citizenship (the children of immigrants) are not listed as immigrants. ^c Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria Source: INSEE Transportation Roads Most major car journeys are made on the A35 autoroute, which links Saint-Louis on the Swiss border to Lauterbourg on the German border. The A4 toll road (towards Paris) begins 20‘km northwest of Strasbourg and the A36 toll road towards Lyon, begins 10‘km west from Mulhouse. Spaghetti-junctions (built in the 1970s and 1980s) are prominent in the comprehensive system of motorways in Alsace, especially in the outlying areas of Strasbourg and Mulhouse. These cause a major buildup of traffic and are the main sources of pollution in the towns, notably in Strasbourg where the motorway traffic of the A35 was 170,000 per day in 2002. Ponts Couverts, Strasbourg At present, plans are being considered for building a new dual carriageway west of Strasbourg, which would reduce the buildup of traffic in that area by picking up north- and southbound vehicles and getting rid of the buildup outside Strasbourg. The line plans to link up the interchange of H«rdt to the north of Strasbourg, with Innenheim in the southwest. The opening is envisaged at the end of 2011, with an average usage of 41,000 vehicles a day. Estimates of the French Works Commissioner however, raised some doubts over the interest of such a project, since it would pick up only about 10% of the traffic of the A35 at Strasbourg. Paradoxically, this reversed the situation of the 1950s. At that time, the French trunk road left of the Rhine not been built, so that traffic would cross into Germany to use the Karlsruhe-Basel Autobahn. To add to the buildup of traffic, the neighbouring German state of Baden-W¢rttemberg has imposed a tax on heavy-goods vehicles using their Autobahnen. Thus, a part of the HGVs travelling from north Germany to Switzerland or southern Alsace bypasses the A5 on the Alsace-Baden-W¢rttemberg border and uses the untolled, French A35 instead. The French Assembl‚e Nationale allowed a tax on HGVs using the alsatian road network in 2005. It must be applicated since beginning 2008. Alsace 134 Trains TER Alsace is the rail network serving Alsace. Its network is articulated around the city of Strasbourg. It is one of the most developed rail networks in France, financially sustained partly by the French railroad SNCF, and partly by the r•gion Alsace. Because the Vosges are surmountable only by the Col de Saverne and the Belfort Gap, it has been suggested that Alsace needs to open up and get closer to France in terms of its rail links. The TGV Est (Paris • Strasbourg) had its first phase brought into service in June 2007, bringing down the Strasbourg-Paris trip from 4h to 2h20. Work on its second phase in 2010, which will further bring down this time to 1h50 started in 2010. Further plans include: Place de l'Homme de Fer Tram Station „ the TGV Rhin-RhŒne or a Dijon-Mulhouse line (to start in construction in 2006, with anticipated completion in 2011) „ an interconnection with the German InterCityExpress, as far as Kehl and/or Ottmarsheim „ a tram-train system in Mulhouse (May 2006), then Strasbourg (2011) However, the abandoned Maurice-Lemaire tunnel towards Saint-Di‚-des-Vosges was rebuilt as a toll road. Rivers Port traffic of Alsace exceeds 15‘million tonnes, of which about three-quarters is centred on Strasbourg, which is the second busiest French fluvial harbour. The enlargement plan of the Rhine-RhŒne channel, intended to link up the Mediterranean Sea and Central Europe (Rhine, Danube, North Sea and Baltic Sea) was abandoned in 1998 for reasons of expense and land erosion, notably in the Doubs valley. Air traffic There are two international airports in Alsace: „ the international airport of Strasbourg in Entzheim „ the international EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg, which is the seventh largest French airport in terms of traffic Strasbourg is also two hours away by road from one of the largest European airports, Frankfurt Main, and 2h30m of Charles de Gaulle Airport through the direct TGV service stopping in Terminal 2. Cycling network Crossed by three EuroVelo routes „ the EuroVelo 5 (Via Francigena from London to Rome/Brindisi), „ the EuroVelo 6 (V‚loroute des fleuves from Nantes to Budapest (H)) and „ the EuroVelo 15 (V‚loroute Rhin / Rhine cycle route from Andermatt (CH) to Rotterdam (NL)). Alsace is the most well equipped region of France with 2 000 kilometers cycle routes. The network is of a very good standard and well signposted. All the tow pathes of the canals in Alsace (canal des houill€res de la Sarre, canal de la Marne au Rhin, canal de la Bruche, canal du RhŒne au Rhin) are tarred. Alsace Religion Most of the Alsatian population is Roman Catholic, but, largely because of the region's German heritage, a significant Protestant community also exists: today, the EPCAAL (a Lutheran church) is France's second largest Protestant church, also forming an administrative union (UEPAL) with the much smaller Calvinist EPRAL. Unlike the rest of France, the Local law in Alsace-Moselle still provides for to the Napoleonic Concordat of 1801 and the organic articles, which provides public subsidies to the Roman Catholic, Lutheran, and Calvinist churches, as well as to Jewish synagogues; public education in these faiths is offered. This divergence in policy from the French majority is due to the region having been part of Imperial Germany when the 1905 law separating the French church Temple Saint-Œtienne (architect : Jean-Baptiste and state was instituted (for a more comprehensive history, see: Schacre), the main Calvinist church of Mulhouse. Alsace-Lorraine). Controversy erupts periodically on the appropriateness of this legal disposition, as well as on the exclusion of other religions from this arrangement. Following the Protestant Reformation, promoted by local reformer Martin Bucer, the principle of cuius regio, eius religio led to a certain amount of religious diversity in the highlands of northern Alsace. Landowners, who as "local lords" had the right to decide which religion was allowed on their land, were eager to entice populations from the more attractive lowlands to settle and develop their property. Many accepted without discrimination Catholics, Lutherans, Calvinists, Jews and Anabaptists. Multiconfessional villages appeared, particularly in the region of Alsace bossue. Alsace became one of the French regions boasting a thriving Jewish community, and the only region with a noticeable Anabaptist population. The schism of the Amish under the lead of Jacob Amman from the Mennonites occurred in 1693 in Sainte-Marie-aux-Mines. The strongly Catholic Louis XIV tried in vain to drive them from Alsace. When Napoleon imposed military conscription without religious exception, most emigrated to the American continent. In 1707, the simultaneum was established, by which many Reformed and Lutheran church buildings were forced to allow Catholic services. About 50 such "simultaneous churches" still exist in modern Alsace, though they tend to hold Catholic services only occasionally. 135 Alsace 136 Culture Alsace historically was part of the Holy Roman Empire and the German realm of culture. Since the 17th century, the region has passed between German and French control numerous times, resulting in a cultural blend. Germanic traits remain in the more traditional, rural parts of the culture, such as the cuisine and architecture, whereas modern institutions are totally dominated by French culture. Language Although German dialects were spoken in Alsace for most of its history, the dominant official language in Alsace today is French. The traditional language of the r•gion is Alsatian, an Alemannic dialect of Upper German spoken on both sides of the Rhine and closely related to Swiss German. Some Frankish dialects of West Central German are also spoken in the extreme north of Alsace. Neither Alsatian nor the Frankish dialects have any form of official status, as is customary for regional languages in France, although both are now recognized as languages of France and can be chosen as subjects in lyc‚es. Although Alsace has been annexed by France several times in the past, the region had no direct connection with the French state for several centuries. From the end of the Roman Empire (5th century) to the French annexation (17th century), Alsace was politically part Spatial distribution of dialects in Alsace prior to the expansion of standard French in the 20th century of the Germanic world. The towns of Alsace were the first to adopt German language as their official language, instead of Latin, during the Lutheran Reform. It was in Strasbourg that German was first used for the liturgy. It was also in Strasbourg that the first German Bible was published in 1466. From the annexation of Alsace by France in the 17th century and the language policy of the French Revolution up to 1870, knowledge of French in Alsace increased considerably. With the education reforms of the 19th century, the middle classes began to speak and write French well. The French language never really managed, however, to win over the masses, the vast majority of whom continued to speak their German dialects and write in German (which we would now call "standard German").Wikipedia:Citation needed Between 1870 and 1918, Alsace was annexed by the German Empire in the form of an imperial province or Reichsland, and the mandatory official language, especially in schools, once again became High German. French lost ground to such an extent that it has been estimated that only 2% of the population spoke French fluently and only 8% had some knowledge of it (Maugue, 1970). After 1918, French was the only language used in schools, and particularly primary schools. After much argument and discussion and after many temporary measures, a memorandum was issued by Vice-Chancellor Pfister in 1927 and governed education in primary schools until 1939. During a reannexation by Germany (1940•1945), High German was reinstated as the language of education. Population was forced to speak German. 'French' family names were Germanized. Following the Second World War, the 1927 regulation was not reinstated and the teaching of German in primary schools was suspended by a provisional rectorial decree, which was supposed to enable French to regain lost ground. The teaching of German Alsace became a major issue, however, as early as 1946. Following World War II, the French government pursued, in line with its traditional language policy, a campaign to suppress the use of German as part of a wider Francization campaign. In 1951, Article 10 of the Deixonne Law (Loi Deixonne) on the teaching of local languages and dialects made provision for Breton, Basque, Catalan and old Proven…al, but not for Corsican, Dutch (West Flemish) or Alsatian in Alsace and Moselle. However, in a Decree of 18 December 1952, supplemented by an Order of 19 December of the same year, optional teaching of the German language was introduced in elementary schools in Communes where the language of habitual use was the Alsatian dialect. In 1972, the Inspector General of German, Georges Holderith, obtained authorization to reintroduce German into 33 intermediate classes on an experimental basis. This teaching of German, referred to as the Holderith Reform, was later extended to all pupils in the last two years of elementary school. This reform is still largely the basis of German teaching (but not Alsatian) in elementary schools today. It was not until 9 June 1982, with the Circulaire sur la langue et la culture r•gionales en Alsace (Memorandum on regional language and culture in Alsace) issued by the Vice-Chancellor of the Acad‚mie Pierre Deyon, that the teaching of German in primary schools in Alsace really began to be given more official status. The Ministerial Memorandum of 21 June 1982, known as the Circulaire Savary, introduced financial support, over three years, for the teaching of regional languages in schools and universities. This memorandum was, however, implemented in a fairly lax manner. Both Alsatian and Standard German were for a time banned from public life (including street and city names, official administration, and educational system). Though the ban has long been lifted, Alsace-Lorraine is today very French in language and culture. Few young people speak Alsatian today, although there do still exist one or two enclaves in the Sundgau region where some older inhabitants do not speak French, and where Alsatian is still used as the mother tongue. A related Alemannic German survives on the opposite bank of the Rhine, in Baden, and especially in Switzerland. However, while French is the major language of the region, the Alsatian dialect of French is heavily influenced by German and other languages such a Yiddish in phonology and vocabulary. This situation has spurred a movement to preserve the Alsatian language, which is perceived as endangered, a situation paralleled in other r•gions of France, such as Brittany or Occitania. Alsatian is now taught in French high schools. Increasingly, French is the only language used at home and at work, whereas a growing number of people have a good knowledge of standard German as a foreign language learned in school. The constitution of the Fifth Republic states that French alone is the official language of the Republic. However, Alsatian, along with other regional languages, are recognized by the French government in the official list of languages of France. A 1999 INSEE survey counted 548,000 adult speakers of Alsatian in France, making it the second most-spoken regional language in the country (after Occitan). Like all regional languages in France, however, the transmission of Alsatian is on the decline. While 39% of the adult population of Alsace speaks Alsatian, only one in four children speaks it, and only one in ten children uses it regularly. In 1992, the French government signed the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. However visitors to Alsace can see indications of renewed political and cultural interest in the language • in Alsatian signs appearing in car-windows and on hoardings, and in new official bilingual street signs in Strasbourg and Mulhouse. 137 Alsace 138 Cuisine Alsatian cuisine, somewhat based on Germanic culinary traditions, is marked by the use of pork in various forms. Traditional dishes include baeckeoffe, flammekueche, choucroute, and fleischnacka. Southern Alsace, also called the Sundgau, is characterized by carpe frite (that also exists in Yidish tradition). The festivities of the year's end involve the production of a great variety of biscuits and small cakes called bredela as well as pain d'•pices (gingerbread cakes) which are baked around Christmas time. Flammekueche Alsace is an important wine-producing r•gion. Vins d'Alsace (Alsace wines) are mostly white and display a strong Germanic influence. Alsace produces some of the world's most noted dry rieslings and is the only r•gion in France to produce mostly varietal wines identified by the names of the grapes used (wine from Burgundy is also mainly varietal, but not normally identified as such), typically from grapes also used in Germany. The most notable example is Gew¢rztraminer. Alsace is also the main beer-producing r•gion of France, thanks primarily to breweries in and near Strasbourg. These include those of Fischer, Karlsbr-u, Kronenbourg, and Heineken International. Hops are grown in Kochersberg and in northern Alsace. Schnapps is also traditionally made in Alsace, but it is in decline because home distillers are becoming less common and the consumption of traditional, strong, alcoholic beverages is decreasing. Riesling Grapes The gastronomic symbol of the r•gion is undoubtedly the Choucroute, a local variety of Sauerkraut. The word Sauerkraut in Alsatian has the form s’rkr’t, same as in other southwestern German dialects, and means "sour cabbage" as its Standard German equivalent. This word was included into the French language as choucroute. To make it, the cabbage is finely shredded, layered with salt and juniper and left to ferment in wooden barrels. Sauerkraut can be served with poultry, pork, sausage or even fish. Traditionally it is served with Strasbourg sausage or frankfurters, bacon, smoked pork or smoked Morteau or Montb‚liard sausages, or a selection of other pork products. Served alongside are often roasted or steamed potatoes or dumplings. Alsace is also well known for its foie gras made in the region since the 17th century. Additionally, Alsace is known for its fruit juices and mineral waters. Alsace 139 Architecture The traditional habitat of the Alsatian lowland, like in other regions of Germany and Northern Europe, consists of houses constructed with walls in timber framing and cob and roofing in flat tiles. This type of construction is abundant in adjacent parts of Germany and can be seen in other areas of France, but their particular abundance in Alsace is owed to several reasons: 1. The proximity to the Vosges where the wood can be found. 2. During periods of war and bubonic plague, villages were often burned down, so to prevent the collapse of the upper floors, ground Colmar's old town floors were built of stone and upper floors built in half-timberings to prevent the spread of fire. 3. During most of the part of its history, a great part of Alsace was flooded by the Rhine every year. Half-timbered houses were easy to knock down and to move around during those times (a day was necessary to move it and a day to rebuild it in another place). However, half-timbering was found to increase the risk of fire, which is why from the 19th century, it began to be rendered. In recent times, villagers started to paint the rendering white in accordance with Beaux-Arts movements. To discourage this, the region's authorities gave financial grants to the inhabitants to paint the rendering in various colors, in order to return to the original style and many inhabitants accepted (more for financial reasons than by firm belief).Wikipedia:Citation needed Symbolism The stork is a main feature of Alsace and was the subject of many legends told to children. The bird practically disappeared around 1970, but re-population efforts are continuing. They are mostly found on roofs of houses, churches and other public buildings in Alsace. The Easter Bunny was first mentioned in Georg Franck von Franckenau's De ovis paschalibus (About Easter Eggs) in 1682 referring to an Alsace tradition of an Easter Hare bringing Easter Eggs. Alsatian stork Alsace 140 Alsatians „ Paul •mile Appell „ Jean Arp „ Fr‚d‚ric Bartholdi „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ Max Bense Hans Bethe Karl Brandt Sebastian Brant David Emil Bronnert Henry Bronnert Martin Bucer Theodore Deck Mireille Delunsch Artur Dinter Gustave Dor‚ Alfred Dreyfus Mathieu Dreyfus Charles de Foucauld Charles Friedel Georges Friedel Charles Fr‚d‚ric Gerhardt Charles Fr‚d‚ric Girard „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ Gottfried von Stra¬burg Albert Kahn Johann Geiler von Kaisersberg Xavier Haegy Alfred Kastler Fran…ois-Christophe Kellermann Jean-Baptiste Kl‚ber Katia and Maurice Krafft Johann Heinrich Lambert Pope Saint Leo IX Bernard Lauth Julius Leber Jean-Marie Lehn S‚bastien Loeb Philip James de Loutherbourg Marcel Marceau Sam Marx, father of the Marx Brothers Otto Meissner Hans-Otto Meissner Johannes Mentelin Paul Meyer Germain Muller Yvan Muller Charles M¢nch Viktor Nessler Statue of Martin Schongauer by Fr‚d‚ric Bartholdi in front of the Unterlinden Museum, Colmar Alsace 141 „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ Jean-Fr‚d‚ric Oberlin Fran…ois-Joseph Offenstein Beatus Rhenanus Claude Rich Jean Sandherr The Schlumberger brothers Martin Schongauer Albert Schweitzer Pierre Seel Charles Spindler Philipp Jakob Spener Fran…ois Spoerry Sebastian Stoskopff Jacob Sturm von Sturmeck „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ Marie Tussaud Tomi Ungerer Claude Vig‚e Thomas Voeckler Jean-Georges Vongerichten •mile Waldteufel Jean-Jacques Waltz aka Hansi Ars€ne Wenger Alfred Werner Eugene Wilhelm Andr‚ Wilms Bob Wollek Charles-Adolphe Wurtz William Wyler Major communities German original names in brackets if French names are different „ „ „ „ „ „ „ Bischheim Colmar (Kolmar) Guebwiller (Gebweiler) Haguenau (Hagenau) Illkirch-Graffenstaden (Illkirch-Grafenstaden) Illzach Lingolsheim „ „ „ „ „ „ „ Mulhouse (M¢lhausen) Saint-Louis (St. Ludwig) Saverne (Zabern) Schiltigheim S‚lestat (Schlettstadt) Strasbourg (Stra¬burg) Wittenheim Alsace 142 Sister provinces There is an accord de coop•ration internationale between Alsace and the following regions:[13] „ „ „ „ „ „ „ Gyeongsangbuk-do, South Korea Lower Silesia, Poland Upper Austria, Austria Quebec, Canada Jiangsu, China Moscow, Russia Vest, Romania Footnotes [1] http:/ / www. region-alsace. eu/ [2] Roland Kaltenbach: Le guide de l€Alsace, La Manufacture 1992, ISBN 2-7377-0308-5, page 36 [3] (http:/ / www. insee. fr/ fr/ insee_regions/ alsace/ rfc/ docs/ cpar12_1. pdf) "L'alsacien, deuxi€me langue r‚gionale de France" Insee, Chiffres pour l'Alsace no. 12, December 2002 [4] http:/ / www. olcalsace. org/ fr/ observer-et-veiller/ le-dialecte-en-chiffres [5] Veve, Thomas Dwight (1992). The Duke of Wellington and the British army of occupation in France, 1815•1818, pp. 20•21. Greenwood Press, Westport, Connecticut, United States. [6] http:/ / members. cox. net/ smithgen/ sources/ ships/ ships18201850notes. htm#sully1838match [7] Vicki Caron, "Alsace," in Richard S. Levy, ed., Antisemitism: A historical Encyclopedia of prejudice and persecution (2005) 1:13-16 [8] In fact, France ceded more than nine-tenths of Alsace and one-fourth of Lorraine as stipulated in the treaty of Frankfurt. De jure, that wasn't an annexation any more. [9] Have a look at this archive video (http:/ / www. ina. fr/ archivespourtous/ popup. php?vue=partenaire& partenariat=1df07ccad656b16c3f7dcd36ce620f11). [10] However, propaganda for elections was allowed to go with a German translation from 1919 to 2008. [11] St‚phane Courtois, Mark Kramer. Livre noir du Communisme: crimes, terreur, r•pression (http:/ / books. google. com/ books?id=H1jsgYCoRioC& pg=PA323). Harvard University Press, 1999. p.323. ISBN 0-674-07608-7 [12] Note: the commune of Strasbourg is not inside the arrondissement of Strasbourg-Campagne but it is nonetheless the seat of the Strasbourg-Campagne sous-pr•fecture buildings and administration. [13] Les Accords de coop‚ration entre l‚Alsace et... (http:/ / www. region-alsace. eu/ dn_coopration-internationale1/ accords-cooperation-international. html) Bibliography „ Assall, Paul. Juden im Elsass. Z¢rich: Rio Verlag. ISBN 3-907668-00-6. „ Das Elsass: Ein literarischer Reisebegleiter. Frankfurt a.‘M.: Insel Verlag, 2001. ISBN 3-458-34446-2. „ Erbe, Michael (Hrsg.) Das Elsass: Historische Landschaft im Wandel der Zeiten. Stuttgart: Kohlhammer, 2002. ISBN 3-17-015771-X. „ Faber, Gustav. Elsass. M¢nchen: Artemis-Cicerone Kunst- und Reisef¢hrer, 1989. „ Fischer, Christopher J. Alsace to the Alsatians? Visions and Divisions of Alsatian Regionalism, 1870•1939 (Berghahn Books, 2010). „ Gerson, Daniel. Die Kehrseite der Emanzipation in Frankreich: Judenfeindschaft im Elsass 1778 bis 1848. Essen: Klartext, 2006. ISBN 3-89861-408-5. „ Haeberlin, Marc. Elsass, meine groœe Liebe. Orselina, La Tavola 2004. ISBN 3-909909-08-6 • Rezension (http://www.bad-bad.de/buecher/haeberlin.htm) ¢ber das –Schlaraffenland„ Elsass „ Herden, Ralf Bernd. Straœburg Belagerung 1870. Norderstedt: BoD, 2007, ISBN 978-3-8334-5147-8. „ Mehling, Marianne (Hrsg.) Knaurs Kulturf•hrer in Farbe Elsaœ. M¢nchen: Droemer Knaur, 1984. „ Putnam, Ruth. Alsace and Lorraine: From Cžsar to Kaiser, 58 B.C.•1871 A.D. New York: 1915. „ Schreiber, Hermann. Das Elsaœ und seine Geschichte, eine Kulturlandschaft im Spannungsfeld zweier V•lker. Augsburg: Weltbild, 1996. Alsace 143 „ Schwengler, Bernard. Le Syndrome Alsacien: d'Letschte? Strasbourg: •ditions Oberlin, 1989. ISBN 2-85369-096-2. „ Ungerer, Tomi. Elsass. Das offene Herz Europas. Stra¬burg: •dition La Nu‚e Bleue, 2004. ISBN 2-7165-0618-3. „ Ungerer, Tomi, Dani€le Brison, and Tony Schneider. Die elsŸssische K•che. 60 Rezepte aus der Weinstube L'Arsenal. Stra¬burg: •dition DNA, 1994. ISBN 2-7165-0341-9. „ Vogler, Bernard and Hermann Lersch. Das Elsass. Morstadt: •ditions Ouest-France, 2000. ISBN 3-88571-260-1. External links „ Alsace : at the heart of Europe (http://www.france.fr/en/regions-and-cities/alsace-heart-europe) • Official French website (in English) „ Tourism-Alsace.com (http://www.tourism-alsace.com/) Info from the Alsace Tourism Board „ Official website of the Alsace regional council (http://www.region-alsace.eu/index.php?lg=en) „ Rhine Online • life in southern Alsace and neighbouring Basel and Baden Wuerrtemburg (http://rhine-online. com/html/alsace-france-english.htm) „ Alsatourisme (http://www.alsatourisme.fr/) Tourism in Alsace (French) „ Alsace (http://www.dmoz.org/Regional/Europe/France/Regions/Alsace) at DMOZ „ Statistics and figures on Alsace (http://www.insee.fr/fr/insee_regions/alsace/home/home_page.asp) on the website of the INSEE (French) „ Alsace.net: Directory of Alsatian Websites (http://www.alsace.net/) (French) „ "Museums of Alsace" (http://www.musees-alsace.org/) (French) „ Churches and chapels of Alsace (http://www.photo-alsace.com/thematique/architecture/ „ „ „ „ „ architecture_religieuse.php) (pictures only) (French) Medieval castles of Alsace (http://www.photo-alsace.com/thematique/chateaux/index.php) (pictures only) (French) "Alsatian language Wiki" (http://els.assisch.eu/) (Elsassisch) "Origins of Alsace" (http://decouverte.orgue.free.fr/) (French) The Alsatian Library of Mutual Credit (http://www.bacm.creditmutuel.fr/) (French) The Alsatian Artists (http://www.alsace-culture.com/) (French) Coordinates: 48Ž30‹N 7Ž30‹E (http:/ / tools. wmflabs. org/ geohack/ geohack. php?pagename=Alsace& params=48_30_N_7_30_E_region:FR_type:adm1st) County of Flanders 144 County of Flanders County of Flanders Graafschap Vlaanderen (nl) Fiefdom of France, then State of the Holy Roman Empire part of the Burgundian Netherlands (1384•1482) part of the Habsburg Netherlands (1482•1584) part of the Southern Netherlands (1584•1795) — ˜ ˜ 862•1795 Flag Coat of arms County of Flanders in northern France, 1350 Capital Bruges, later Ghent and Lille Languages Old Frisian, Old Dutch, Middle Dutch, Dutch, Flemish, Old French, Middle French, Picard Religion Catholic Church Protestantism Government Feudal monarchy Historical era Middle Ages - Fief granted to ‘‘‘‘Count Baldwin I 862 - Acquired by ‘‘‘‘Duke Philip the Bold 1384 County of Flanders 145 - To Maximilian I ‘‘‘‘of Habsburg 1477 - Burgundian Circle 1512 - Renounced by France 1526 - Annexed by France 1795 The County of Flanders (Dutch: Graafschap Vlaanderen, French: Comt• de Flandre) was one of the territories constituting the Low Countries. The county existed from 862 to 1795. It was one of the original secular fiefs of France and for centuries was one of the most affluent regions in Europe. The area under the French crown was located completely west of the Scheldt river and was called "Royal Flanders" (Kroon-Vlaanderen). This fief was finally removed from French control after the Peace of Madrid in 1526 and the Peace of Ladies in 1529. Aside from this the count of Flanders also held land east of the Scheldt river from the 11th Topographic map of the county of Flanders at the end of the 14th century, century on, as a fief of the Holy Roman Empire; the French-Imperial border marked in red this area was called "Imperial Flanders" (Rijks-Vlaanderen). Except for French Flanders, Flanders is the only part of the medieval French kingdom that is not part of modern-day France. Etymology Flanders and Flemish (Dutch: Vlaanderen, Vlaams) are likely derived from the Frisian *fl ndra and *fl misk (in Old Frisian flamsk), the roots of which are Germanic *flaumaz meaning "overflow, flooding". The coastal area of Flanders was flooded twice per day from the 3rd century to the 8th century by the North Sea at the time when the coast was frequently visited by Frisian (cattle) traders and probably partly inhabited by Frisians. The Flemish people are first mentioned in the biography of Saint Eligius (ca. 590-660), the Vita sancti Eligii. This work was written before 684, but only known since 725. This work mentions the "Flanderenses", who lived in "Flandris". Geography The geography of the historic County of Flanders only partially overlaps with present-day region of Flanders in Belgium, though even there it extends beyond West Flanders and East Flanders. Some of the historic county is now part of France and the Netherlands. The land covered by the county is spread out over: „ Belgium: „ two of the five Flemish provinces: West-Flanders and East-Flanders „ part of the Flemish province Antwerp: the land of Bornem „ part of the Walloon province Hainaut: Tournaisis and the region around Moeskroen (that belonged to West-Flanders until 1962) „ France: County of Flanders „ French Flanders (in the Nord departement) „ the French westcorner: the region around Dunkirk, Bergues and Bailleul, an area where Flemish used to be the main language „ Lilloise Flanders, where the Picard language, closely related to French, was spoken. „ Artois (in the Pas-de-Calais department): removed from Flanders in 1191 and created as independent county in 1237 „ Netherlands: „ Zeelandic Flanders, a region between Belgium and the Western Scheldt, in the southern part of the province of Zeeland Flag and arms Main article: Coat of arms of Flanders The arms of the County of Flanders were allegedly created by Philip of Alsace, count of Flanders from 1168 to 1191; a climbing or rampant black lion on a gold field. In the story about the Guldensporenslag, the arms and its corresponding battlecry Vlaendr'n den leeuw ("Flanders, the Lion!") plays a crucial role in the forming of a Flemish consciousness, which was popularised in recent times by the book De Leeuw van Vlaanderen by Hendrik Conscience. As a result, the arms of the county live on as arms of the Flemish Community. It is said that Philip of Alsace brought the lion flag with him from the Holy land, where in 1177 he Count Philip (2nd from right) as swordbearer at the coronation of King Philip II of France, supposedly conquered it from a Saracen knight, but Jean Fouquet, 1455 this is a myth. The simple fact that the lion appeared on his personal seal since 1163, when he had not yet set one step in the Levant, disproves it. In reality Philip was following a West-European trend. In the same period lions also appeared in the arms of Brabant, Luxembourg, Holland, Limburg and other territories. It is curious that the lion as a heraldic symbol was mostly used in border territories and neighbouring countries of the Holy Roman Empire. It was in all likelihood a way of showing independence from the emperor, who used an eagle in his personal arms. In Europe the lion had been a well-known figure since Roman times, through works such as the fables of Aesop. 146 County of Flanders History Ancient and Roman times The future county of Flanders had been inhabited since prehistory. During the Iron Age the Kemmelberg formed an important Celtic settlement. During the times of Julius Caesar, the inhabitants were part of the Belgae, a collective name for all Celtic and Germanic tribes in the north of Gallia. For Flanders in specific these were the Menapii, the Morini, the Nervii and the Atrebates. Julius Caesar conquered the area around 54 b.c. and the population was partially romanised from the 1st to the 3rd century. The Roman road that connected Cologne with Boulogne-sur-Mer was used as a defense perimeter. In the south the Gallo-Romanic population was able to maintain itself, while the north became a no-mans land that also suffered from regular floods from the North sea. In the coastal and Scheldt areas Saxon tribes gradually appeared. Saxon was a general term for the Romans, and included Angles, Saxons, Jutes and Erules. The coastal defense around Boulogne and Oudenburg, the 'Litus Saxonicum', remained functional until about 420. These forts were manned by Saxon soldiers. From their base land Toxandria the Salic Franks further expanded into the Roman empire. The first incursion into the lands of the Atrebates was turned away in 448 at Vicus Helena. But after the murder of the Roman general Flavius Aˆtius in 454 and Roman emperor Valentinianus III in 455, the Salic Franks encounterd hardly any resistance. From Duisburg, king Chlodio conquered Cambrai and Tournai, and he reached the Somme. After his death two Salic kingdoms emerged. Childeric is recorded in 463 as king of Tournay and ally of the Romans against the Visigoths. He was also administrator of the province of Belgica Secunda. His son Clovis I conquered from 486 on all of Northern France. 6th century The abandoned coast and Scheldt region had been partially repopulated since the 4th century by Saxonian groups that retained their Germanic culture and language. In the 5th century Salic Franks settled in present day Northern-France and Wallonia, primarily around the cities of Courtrai, Tournai and Bavay. They adapted to the local Gallo-Romanic population. From the 6th century on the no-mans-land farther north was filled by Franks from the Rhinelands and other Germanic groups from the Netherlands and Germany. The first wave of immigration in the present day Flemish territory was accompanied by limited Christianisation. In the wake of the immigrants, missionaries tried to convert the heathen population, but they had little success. The bishoprics were reinstated, usually with the same natural borders of the Late-Roman era; the Silva Carbonaria separated the Bishopric of Cambrai from the Bishopric of Tongeren, while the Scheldt again became the border between the bishoprics of Cambrai and Tournai. Vedastus and Eleutherius of Tournai were assigned to reinstate the bishoprics of Arras and Tournai. However, these bishoprics failed to survive independently. In the late 6th century the bishopric of Atrecht was connected to that of Cambrai, and at the start of the 7th century the same was done to the bishoprics of Tournai and Noyon. At the end of the 6th century the duchy of Dentelinus was created in the north of what would later constitute Neustria. This duchy presumably included the bishoprics Boulogne, Terwaan, Atrecht, Tournai, Cambrai and Noyon, thus the northwestern region between the North Sea and the Silva Carbonaria, an area whose outlines were very similar to the later Flanders. The duchy of Dentelinus was primarily meant as a military and strategical deterrent against Frisian and Saxon invasions. It was a cornerstone in the military defense of the Merovingian Empire. In 600 Chlotar II (584-628) was forced to temporarily cede the duchy of Dentelinus to Austrasia, but after restoration of Austrasian dual-monarchy in 622/623 the duchy was returned. 147 County of Flanders 7th century At the end of the 6th and the 7th century a new inflow emerged from the western Pas-de-Calais. This area had been germanised in the 5th century and descendants of the Saxons and Franks had settled in future Flanders and the Duchy of Brabant. New groups of germanic settlers also came in from the Netherlands and Germany. Their new settlements often received the name of their germanic leader, with '-inga haim' added. -Inga haim meant 'the settlement of the tribe of X'. For example: Petegem comes from Petta-inga-haim, which meant 'the settlement of the tribe of Petta'. The colonisation and germanisation of Flanders took place primarily in the 6th and 7th centuries. In the 7th century the population-level had risen sufficiently to start rebuilding the religious, military and administrative infrastructure. In the area of linguistics, the situation stabilised so that a large, bilingual region with a linear language border could emerge in the 8th century. In Pas-de-Calais, which had been densely populated a long time, a language barrier had emerged in the 6th-7th century, but in the 9th century a romanisation-movement started that has continued until the present day. The Christianisation attempts in the 6th century by bishops like Eleutherius and Vedastus had largely failed. Thus, in the 8th century a different strategy was chosen. A new Christianisation attempt was made under influence from king Dagobert I. He appointed several devoted missionaries from the southern parts of his kingdom to his royal domains in the northern parts of his kingdom. The missionaries were tasked with founding monasteries and abbeys there, that were to serve as centers of Christianity in a pagan region. From these centers, the conversion of the local populace could be started. In 649 Audomar founded an abbey at Sithiu (the Abbey of Saint Bertinus) and in 680 Aubertus founded the Abbey of St. Vaast near Arras. The Christianisation of the population was mainly the work of missionaries like Amandus (St. Bavo's Abbey and St. Peter's Abbey in Ghent) and Eligius (coastal region and Antwerp). In his 'vita', Eligius makes the first mention of the word 'Flanders', when he toured the area around 650. During the 7th century the first Gaue or pagi were created in the Flemish territories. Gaue were administrative subdivisions of the civitates. The Gaue from the 7th and 8th century would form the basis of the county of Flanders. The pagus Tornacensis dates from ca. 580, and from the 7th century we know of the 'pagus Cambracinsis' in 663, the pagus Taroanensis from 649 and the pagus Bracbatensis at the end of the century. From the 8th century we know of the pagus Rodaninsis from 707, the pagus Gandao from the first quarter of the 8th century, the pagus Mempiscus from 723 and the pagus Flandrensis from around 745. Lastly, the pagus Austrebatensis and the pagus Curtracensis are also counted as Merovingian gaue. 148 County of Flanders The Carolingians In 751 the Carolingian Mayors of the Palace succeeded in removing the Merovingians from power and obtaining the throne for themselves. The last Merovingian king, Childeric III, was placed in captivity at the later Abbey of Saint Bertinus in St. Omer, and his long hair, a symbol of royal power, was cut off. Charlemagne succeeded his father Pippin the Short in Neustria and Austrasia, and after the death of his brother Karloman he was able to reunite the entire Frankish Empire. Though he resided in Aachen, he spent map of the county of Flanders from 1609 by Matthias Quad, cartographer, and Johannes much time travelling through his Bussemacher, engraver and publisher, Cologne territories. In 811 he inspected the fleet that he had ordered built in Boulogne and Ghent, to protect against Viking invasions. The region comprising future Flanders was, from an economic point of view, a flourishing region, with a series of ports along the Scheldt river: Ghent, Tournai, Valenciennes, Cambrai and Lambres at Douai on the Scarpe and a number of seaports: Quentovic, Boulogne and Is€re portus, a port at the mouth of the Yser. Moreover, the region included a number of rich abbeys, such as Abbey of St. Bertin, St. Bavo's Abbey, Saint-Amand Abbey and the Abbey of St. Vaast. Charlemagne was succeeded by his son Louis the Pious. Even during Louis' life his three sons started fighting over his heritage. They eventually concluded multiple treaties, of which the Treaty of Verdun, signed in 843, would be the definitive treaty. These treaties created East Francia, Middle Francia and West Francia. West Francia, inherited by Charles the Bald, included the original county of Flanders, that spanned roughly between Oudenburg, Aardenburg and Torhout. After the Middle-Frankish kings died out, the rulers of the West and East-Frankish Kingdoms divided the Middle-Frankish kingdom amongst themselves in the treaty of Meerssen in 870. Now Western Europe had been divided into two sides: the solid West Francia (the later France) and the loose confederation of principalities of East Francia, that would become the Holy Roman Empire. In the north these two powers were separated by the Scheldt river, which had previously separated West Francia from Middle Francia. This separation remained unchanged until the times of Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor. 149 County of Flanders 150 Growth in the 9th, 10th and 11th centuries (864•1071) Militarily, economically and politically, Europe went through a deep crisis. The Vikings invaded from the north, the Magyar from the east and the Saracens from the south. All left trails of destruction. The central authorities of the two Frankish kingdoms were unable to organise an effective defensive, causing the population to lose faith and trust in their far-removed rulers. In the wake of this power vacuum, local powerful individuals saw their chance. Often these individuals were the descendants of people associated with Charlemagne. The county of Flanders originated from the Gau of Pagus Flandrensis, led by the Forestiers dynasty, who had been appointed by Charlemagne, who had made a small contribution by uniting small feudal territories in the higher parts of the Flemish Valley. The forestiers dynasty also strengthened the hold of the church on the relatively desolate area. Institution of Baldwin I, the first count of Flanders by Charles the Bald, the Frankish king. The first Count of Flanders was Baldwin I of Flanders, who became count in 862, and a romantic anecdote is connected to this: Baldwin eloped with the daughter of the Frankish king Charles the Bald, Judith of West Francia. Judith, who had previously been married to two English kings, refused her father's command to return to him. After mediation by the pope, the Frankish king reconciled with his son-in-law, and gave him the title of count, and the corresponding feudal territories as dowry. Initially the French kings meant to secure the safety of the northern French border from Viking invasions with this act. The counts, however, made good use of the crisis situation by incorporating the surrounding plundered territories into the county. The counts expanded the influence of the original Flemish pagus over the years over all territories south and west of the Scheldt river, including presentday the lordship of the Four Amts, Zeelandic Flanders, the burgraviate of Aalst to the east and the County of Artois to the south, which remained part of Flanders until it became a separate county in 1237. After that date, the county of Artois at various times still came under the dominion of the count of Flanders as a separate title, until it was absorbed by the French crown. County of Flanders Prosperity in the 12th and 13th century (1071•1278) The House of Flanders stayed in power until 1119, when Baldwin VII of Flanders died heirless, and the county was inherited by Charles the Good, of the House of Denmark. After a short interlude under William Clito of Normandy (1127 to 1128), the county went to Thierry of Alsace of the House of Alsace. Under Thierry (1128•1168) and his successor Philip of Alsace, Flanders' importance and power increased. In the second half of the 12th century, the county went through a period of great prosperity when Philip of Alsace The Gravensteen at Ghent, Built by Philip of Alsace managed to incorporate the County of Vermandois into Flanders through the inheritance of his wife. The territories he controlled now came to within 25 kilometers of Paris, and were larger than the territories his Feudal Lord, the French King, directly controlled. During the rule of the House of Alsace, cities developed and new institutions were formed. The ports of Gravelines, Nieuwpoort, Damme, Biervliet, Dunkirk, and Mardijk were founded, as well as Calais by Philip's brother Matthew of Alsace. Aside for colonisation, the ports also functioned to reduce the silting of the Aa, Yser and Zwin rivers, which were endangering the accessibility of Saint-Omer, Ypres and Bruges. Biervliet also served as a counter to Hollandic influence. Trade partners included England, the Baltic countries and France over sea, and the Rhineland and Italy over land. The wool trade with England was of special importance to the rising cloth industry in Flanders. The wealth of many Flemish cities (as their Belltowers and cloth halls testify) came from the drapery industry. Aside from this, the grain trade with England and through Holland with Hamburg were also important. Saint-Omer became the most important transit-port for French wine in the 12th century. These were the centuries of the breakthrough of the Flemish merchants, with their trade with England, the Baltic area and South-West France, as well as the landrouters to the Rhineland and Italy, though later only the yearly fairs of Champagne. Flanders' flourishing trading towns made it one of the most urbanised parts of Europe. In 1194, Baldwin I of Constantinople of the House of Hainaut, succeeded the House of Alsace. The crisis of the 14th century (1278•1384) In 1278 Guy of Dampierre, of the House of Dampierre, became count of Flanders. The king of France wanted to definitively conquer Flanders, and started the Franco-Flemish War (1297•1305). Increasingly powerful in the 12th century, the territory's autonomous urban centres were instrumental in defeating the French invasion attempt, defeating the French at the Battle of the Golden Spurs in 1302. But finally the French prevailed at the battle of Mons-en-P‚v€le and with the subsequent treaty of Athis-sur-Orge (1305) Flanders lost Lille, Douai, and Orchies to France and had to pay exorbitant fines but retained their independence as a fief of the French kingdom. During this period, Flanders experienced a period of relative prosperity with its strong cloth industry and diverse artwork. Trade in Flanders was so extensive that statues of the Madonna and Child were made in Flanders with ivory, which was only accessible on the Indian Ocean trade networks. 151 County of Flanders Flemish prosperity waned in the following century, however, owing to widespread European population decline following the Black Death of 1348, the disruption of trade during the Anglo-French Hundred Years' War (1338•1453), and increased English cloth production. Flemish weavers had gone over to Worstead and North Walsham in Norfolk in the 12th century and established the wool industry. The Burgundian 15th century (1384•1506) Through his marriage with Margaret of Dampierre in 1369, Philip the Bold, duke of Burgundy, made an end to the independence of Flanders. Flanders became the possession of the House of Valois-Burgundy, that ruled over the Duchy of Burgundy. In 1449 the city of Ghent revolted against duke Philip the Good. In 1453 Philip crushed the rebels at the battle of Gavere, ending the revolt. The cities of Ghent and Bruges had previously operated :49 virtually as city-states, and upon the death of duke Charles the Bold attempted to re-assert this position by means of the Great Privilege that they wrested from Wijnendale Castle with a view of the medieval part Mary of Burgundy, Charles' daughter and successor. In 1482 this last Burgundian ruler died, making her young son Philip I of Castile of the House of Habsburg the new count, and her husband Maximilian I of Austria the regent. The Flemish cities staged two more revolts, but these were ultimately subdued by the armies of the Holy Roman Empire. The 1493 Treaty of Senlis established peace between France and the Habsburgs; per the terms of the treaty, Flanders would henceforth be a territory of the Holy Roman Empire. The seventeen provinces in the 16th century (1506•1598) Under Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor, Flanders became a member of the Burgundian Circle. The county was later involved in the Guelderian Wars. Through the Pragmatic Sanction of 1549, the County of Flanders was officially detached from France. It became an independent territory of the Holy Roman Empire. This constitutional act made Flanders part of the Seventeen Provinces, that constituted the Low Countries and from then on would be inherited as a whole. The Low Countries held an important place in the Empire. For Charles personally, they were the region where he spent his childhood. Because of trade and industry and the rich cities, they were also important for the treasury. Lordship transferred to the Spanish branch of the House of Habsburg with Philip II of Spain, and after 1556 belonged to the Kings of Spain. It was in Steenvoorde (In French Flanders) in 1566 that the Beeldenstorm broke loose. The Beeldenstorm spread through all of the Low Countries and eventually led to the outbreak of the Eighty Years' war and the secession of the Republic of the Seven United Netherlands. Originally Flanders cooperated with the northern provinces as a member of the Union of Utrecht, and also signed the Act of Abjuration in 1581, but from 1579 to 1585, in the period known as the "Ghent (Calvinist) Republic", it was reconquered by the Spanish army. See also: Eighty Years' war 152 County of Flanders The Spanish 17th century (1598•1713) Flanders stayed under Spanish control. Through the efforts of the French king Louis XIV, the entire southern part of Flanders was annexed by France, and became known as South-Flanders or French Flanders. This situation was formalised in 1678 at the Treaty of Nijmegen. The Austrian 18th century (1713•1789) After the extinction of the Spanish branch of the Habsburgs, the Austrian branch of the Habsburgs became counts of Flanders. Under Maria Theresa of Austria, the Austrian Netherlands flourished. Last years (1789-1795) In 1789 a revolution broke out against emperor Joseph II. In 1790 the county of Flanders and a separate province called West-Flanders (1713), which constituted the territories given back by France to the Emperor, were two of the founding members of the Austrian soldiers at Neerwinden during the Revolutionary Wars, 1793 United States of Belgium. Just like the other parts of the Austrian Netherlands, the county of Flanders declared its independence. This took place on the Friday-market at Ghent on 4 January 1790. The "Manifest van Vlaenderen" was drawn up by Charles-Joseph de Graeve and Jan Jozelf Raepsaet. The county of Flanders officially ceased to exist in 1795, when it was annexed by France, and divided into two departments: Lys (present day West Flanders) and Escaut (present day East Flanders and Zeelandic Flanders). After the French Revolution the county was not restored, and instead the two departments continued their existence as the provinces of East- and West-Flanders in the Unitarian United Kingdom of the Netherlands, and later after the Belgian Revolution in Belgium. Count of Flanders title From 1840 onwards, the title "Count of Flanders" has been appropriated by the monarchy of Belgium. As a rule it was given to the second in line of succession to the Belgian throne. The title of count of Flanders was abolished by royal decision on 16 October 2001. Important treaties and battles which involved the County of Flanders „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ Battle of Cassel (1071) Battle of Axpoele in 1128 Peace of Peronne in 1199 Battle of Bouvines in 1214 Peace of Melun in 1226 Battle of West-Kapelle in 1253 Guldensporenslag in 1302 Battle of Arke in 1303 Battle of Zierikzee in 1304 Battle of Mons-en-Pevele in 1304 Treaty of Athis-sur-Orge in 1305 153 County of Flanders „ „ „ „ „ „ Battle of Cassel (1328) Battle of Westrozebeke in 1382 Eighty Years' War from 1568 to 1648 Pacification of Ghent in 1576 Union of Utrecht in 1579 Act of Abjuration in 1581 References Bibliography „ Gysseling, M. en Dhondt, J. (1948): Vlaanderen, oorspronkelijke ligging en etymologie, in Album Prof. Dr. Frank Baur p.‘192-220, Leuven, „ De Mallie/de Maille, Jonathan Robert (1955 a.d.) ' ' "Kingdom of Flanders" ' ' „ Gysseling, M. (1960): Toponymisch woordenboek van Belgi‡, Nederland, Luxemburg, Noord-Frankrijk en West-Duitsland (voor 1226), Tongeren, „ Blok, D.P. (red) et al (1977•1983): Algemene Geschiedenis der Nederlanden, Fibula-Van Dishoeck, Haarlem, ISBN 90-228-3800-5 „ Blom, J.C.H., Lamberts, E., redactie (2006): Geschiedenis van de Nederlanden, HBuitgevers, Baarn, ISBN 90-5574-474-3 „ Dhondt, J. (1943): Korte geschiedenis van het ontstaan van het graafschap Vlaanderen van Boudewijn de IJzeren tot Robrecht den Fries, Brussel • Den Haag. „ Dhondt, J. (1941•1942): Het ontstaan van het vorstendom Vlaanderen, Belgisch tijdschrift voor filologie en „ „ „ „ geschiedenis, XX, 553-572 en XXI, 53-93. Ganshof, F.-L. (1944): Vlaanderen onder de eerste graven, Antwerpen. Nicolas, D. (1992): Medieval Flanders, Londen, ISBN 0-582-01679-7 Niermeyer, J.F., Presser, J., Van Houtte, J.A. (1949•1958): Algemene Geschiedenis der Nederlanden, Haarlem • Antwerpen. Voet, L. (1942): De graven van Vlaanderen en hun domein, 864-1191, Wetenschappelijke Tijdingen, VII, 25-32. External links „ Maps (900-1350) (http://www.wazamar.org/Nederlanden/graafschap-vl.htm) „ Summary of the French expansionism into Flanders (http://www.nordpasdecalais.fr/reperes/France/Histoire/ 05/05-04.htm) (French) 154 Lorraine (duchy) 155 Lorraine (duchy) Duchy of (Upper) Lorraine Duch• de (Haute-)Lorraine (fr) Herzogtum (Ober-)Lothringen (de) State of the Holy Roman Empire — 959•1766 Flag ˜ Coat of arms Duchy of Lorraine (pink) within France Capital Nancy Government Feudal monarchy Duke - 959•978 Frederick I of Bar - 1737•1766 Stanis®aw Leszczy¯ski Lotharingia divided 959 History - Joined ‘‘‘‘Upper Rhenish Circle 1500 - Annexed by France 1766 The Duchy of Lorraine (French: Lorraine, IPA:‘[lŒ†‰n]; German: Lothringen), originally Upper Lorraine Haute-Lorraine; Oberlothringen), was a duchy roughly corresponding with the present-day region of Lorraine in northeastern France. Parts of the former duchy are now also in Belgium, Luxembourg and Germany. The historic Lorraine (duchy) 156 capital was Nancy. Other important centres were Metz, Verdun and •pinal. History Lotharingia Main article: Lotharingia Lorraine's predecessor Lotharingia was an independent Carolingian kingdom under the rule of King Lothair II (855•869). Its territory had originally been a part of Middle Francia, created in 843 by the Treaty of Verdun, when the Carolingian empire was divided between the three sons of Louis the Pious. Middle Francia was allotted to Emperor Lothair I, therefore called Lotharii Regnum. Upon his death in 855, it was further divided into three parts, of which his son Lothair II took the northern one. His realm then comprised a larger territory stretching from the County of Burgundy in the south to the North Sea. In French, this area became known as Lorraine, while in German, it was eventually known as Lothringen. In the Alemannic language once spoken in Lorraine, the -ingen suffix signified a propertyWikipedia:Citation needed; thus, in a figurative sense, "Lotharingen" can be translated as "Land belonging to Lothair". As Lothair II had died without heirs, his territory was divided by the 870 Treaty of Meerssen between East and West Francia and finally came under East Frankish rule as a whole by the 880 Treaty of Ribemont. After the East Frankish Carolingians became extinct with the death of Louis the Child in 911, Lotharingia once again attached itself to West Francia, but was conquered by the German king Henry the Fowler in 925. Stuck in the conflict with his rival Hugh the Great, King Louis IV of France in 942 renounced all claims to Lotharingia. Duchy of Upper Lorraine In 953 the German king Otto I had appointed his brother Bruno the Great Duke of Lotharingia. In 959, Bruno divided the duchy into Upper and Lower Lorraine which became permanent following his death in 965. The Upper Duchy was further "up" the river system, that is, it was inland and to the south. Upper Lorraine was first denominated as the Duchy of the Moselle, both in charters and narrative sources, and its duke was the dux Mosellanorum. The usage of Lotharingia Superioris and Lorraine in official documents begins later, around the fifteenth century. The first duke and deputy of Bruno was Frederick I of Bar, son-in-law of Bruno's sister Hedwig of Saxony. Cross of Lorraine, symbol of Lorraine since the 15th century Lorraine (duchy) 157 Lower Lorraine disintegrated into several smaller territories and only the title of a "Duke of Lothier" remained, held by Brabant. After the duchy of the Moselle came into the possession of Ren‚ of Anjou the name "Duchy of Lorraine" was adopted again, only retrospectively called "Upper Lorraine". At that time several territories had already split off, like the County of Luxembourg and the Electorate of Trier, or the County of Bar and the "Three Bishoprics" of Verdun, Metz and Toul. Lorraine (blue) about 1400 The border between the Empire and the Kingdom of France remained relatively stable throughout the Middle Ages. In 1301 Count Henry III of Bar had to receive the western part of his lands (Barrois mouvant) as a fief by King Philip IV of France. The Burgundian duke Charles the Bold in 1475 campaigned for the Duchy of Lorraine, but finally was defeated and killed at the 1477 Battle of Nancy. In 1552 a number of insurgent Protestant Imperial princes around Elector Maurice of Saxony by the Treaty of Chambord ceded the Three Bishoprics to King Henry II of France in turn for his support. In the 17th century, the French kings began to covet Lorraine. While the central Imperial authority decayed in the course of the Thirty Years' War, Chief Minister Cardinal Richelieu urged the occupation of the duchy in 1641. France again had to vacate it after the 1648 Peace of Westphalia, which however won France several positions in Alsace, east of Lorraine. In 1670, the French invaded again, forcing Duke Charles V to flee to a Viennese exile, where he formed strong ties to the Imperial House of Habsburg. France occupied the Duchy for almost thirty years, only giving it up in the Treaty of Ryswick which ended the Nine Years' War in 1697. During the War of the Spanish Succession, parts of Lorraine, including the capital Nancy, were again occupied by France, but Duke Leopold Joseph continued to reign at the Ch‰teau de Lun‚ville. In 1737, after the War of the Polish Succession, Lorraine was part of an agreement between France, the House of Habsburg and the Lorraine House of Vaud‚mont: The Duchy was given to Stanis®aw Leszczy¯ski, the former king of Poland and father-in-law to King Louis XV of France, who despite French support had lost out to a candidate backed by Russia and Austria in the War of the Polish Succession. The Lorraine duke Francis Stephen, betrothed to the Emperor's daughter Archduchess Maria Theresa, was compensated with the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, where the last Medici ruler had recently died without issue. France also promised to support Maria Theresa as heir to the Habsburg possessions under the Pragmatic Sanction of 1713. Leszczy¯ski received Lorraine with the understanding that it would fall to the French crown upon his death. When Stanis®aw died on 23 February 1766, Lorraine was annexed by France and reorganized as a province by the French government. Full coat of arms of the Duchy, Siebmachers Wappenbuch, 1703 Lorraine (duchy) Between France and Germany Lorraine remained a part of France, but its northern part known as Moselle, along with Alsace, largely German-speaking regions, were annexed by the newly founded German Empire, following the Franco-Prussian War, and French language was forbidden. The territories were not annexed by any state of the Empire or organised into a separate state, but were governed as the Reichsland Elsass-Lothringen under a governor directly appointed by the German Emperor. Alsace-Lorraine remained a part of Germany until after the end of World War I, when France occupied the area and annexed it. Policies forbidding the use of German and requiring that of French were then begun, as well as expulsions of Germans who had moved to the region after 1871. In 1940, Nazi Germany re-annexed Alsace-Lorraine during World War Coat of arms of the Duchy (1697) II combining Moselle with the Saarland and Alsace with Baden. The French language was again proscribed and education at German schools made compulsory. The war-torn area returned to France in November 1944. Because of the fighting in the area, Lorraine is home to the Lorraine American Cemetery and Memorial, the largest American war cemetery in France. Culture Two regional languages survive in the region. Lorraine Franconian, known as francique or platt (lorrain) in French, is a Germanic dialect spoken by a minority in the northern part of the region. This is distinct from the neighbouring Alsatian language, although the two are often confused. Neither has any form of official recognition. Lorrain is a Romance dialect spoken by a minority in the southern part of the region. Like most of France's regional languages (such as Breton, Proven…al, Alsatian and Basque) Lorrain and Lorraine Franconian were largely replaced by French with the advent of mandatory public schooling in the 19th and 20th centuries. Foodstuffs and dishes associated with Lorraine include quiche lorraine, Mirabelle plum, baba au rhum, bergamotes, macarons, and madeleines. 158 Lorraine (duchy) 159 References Further reading Publications in English „ Herrick, Linda & Wendy Uncapher. Alsace-Lorraine: The Atlantic Bridge to Germany. Janesville, WI: 2003. „ Hughes, S. P. (2005) "Bilingualism in North-East France with specific reference to Rhenish Franconian spoken by Moselle Cross-border (or frontier) workers." (http://www.ruc.dk/isok/skriftserier/mobility/mobility2/ Hughes/) „ Putnam, Ruth. Alsace and Lorraine: From Cžsar to Kaiser, 58 B.C.-1871 A.D. New York: 1915. External links „ Alsace-Lorraine.info (http://www.alsace-lorraine.info/) „ Lotharingia (http://www.lotharingia.de/) Corsica "Corse" redirects here. For other uses, see Corse (disambiguation) and Corsica (disambiguation). Corsica Corse (French) Corsica (Corsican) Region of France Flag Coat of arms Country Prefecture ‘France Ajaccio Departments Government ‚€‚President Paul Giacobbi (PRG) Area ‚€‚Total 2 8,680‘km (3,350‘sq‘mi) Corsica 160 Population (Jan. 2013) ‚€‚Total 322,120 ‚€‚Density 37/km (96/sq‘mi) Time zone CET (UTC+1) 2 ‚€‚Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) ISO 3166 code FR-H GDP‚(2012) Ranked 24th Total ƒ8.17 billion (US$10.5 bn) Per capita ƒ25,523 (US$32,827) NUTS Region FR8 Website www.corse.fr [1] Corsica (/’kŒrs™k‡/; French: Corse [kŒ†s]; Corsican: Corsica) is a French island in the Mediterranean Sea. It is located west of Italy, southeast of the French mainland, and north of the Italian island of Sardinia. Mountains make up two-thirds of the island, forming a single chain. Before French annexation, Corsica was under the ownership of the Republic of Genoa. Corsica is one of the 27 r•gions of France, although it is designated as a territorial collectivity (collectivit• territoriale) by law. As a territorial collectivity, Corsica enjoys some greater powers than other French r•gions but is referred to as a r•gion in common speech and is almost always listed among them. Although the island is separated from the continental mainland by the Ligurian Sea and is closer to Italy than to the French mainland, politically Corsica is part of Metropolitan France. Corsica is split into two departments, Haute-Corse (Upper Corsica) and Corse-du-Sud (Southern Corsica), with its regional capital in Ajaccio, the prefecture city of Corse-du-Sud. Bastia, the prefecture city of Haute-Corse, is the second-largest settlement in Corsica. After rule from the Republic of Genoa starting in 1282, Corsica was briefly an independent Corsican Republic from 1755 until its conquest by France in 1769. Corsica's culture contains both French and Italian elements, and its constitution while a Republic was written in Italian. The native Corsican language is recognised as a regional language by the French government. The French emperor Napol‚on Bonaparte was born in 1769 in the Corsican capital of Ajaccio. His ancestral home, Casa Buonaparte, is today used as a museum. The northern town of Calvi claims to be the birthplace of the explorer Christopher Columbus. Corsica 161 History Main articles: Prehistory of Corsica, History of Corsica and Medieval Corsica The origin of the name Corsica is subject to much debate and remains a mystery. To the Ancient Greeks it was known as Kalliste, Corsis, Cyrnos, Cernealis, or Cirn•. The latter Greek names are based on the Phoenician word for 'peninsula' (kir). Corsica has been occupied continuously since the Mesolithic era. It acquired an indigenous population that was influential in the Mediterranean during its long prehistory. After a brief occupation by the Carthaginians, colonization by the ancient Greeks, and an only slightly longer occupation by the Etruscans, it was incorporated by the Roman Republic at the end of the First Punic War and, with Sardinia, became a province of the Roman Empire. In the 6th century, the Roman Empire collapsed, and the island was invaded by the Vandals, the Ostrogoths, the Byzantines, the Lombards and the Saracens. Pepin the Short, king of the Franks and Charlemagne's father, expelled the invaders and granted Corsica to Pope Stephen II through the exarchate of Ravenna (756), which was the starting point of the temporal power of the papacy. The medieval influence of Pisa in Corsica can be seen in the Romanesque-Pisan style of the Church of Aregno The Genoese took possession of the island in 1347, and governed it until 1729 • interrupted only by a brief occupation by forces of a Franco-Ottoman alliance in the Invasion of Corsica (1553).Wikipedia:Citation needed The [2] Barbary pirates from North Africa frequently attacked Corsica, resulting in many Genoese towers being erected. Independent Corsica In 1729 the Corsican Revolution for independence began. After 26 years of struggle against the Republic of Genoa, the independent Corsican Republic was formed in 1755 under the leadership of Pasquale Paoli and remained sovereign until 1769 when it was conquered by France. The first Corsican Constitution was written in Italian (the language of culture in Corsica until the end of the 19th century) by Paoli. He proclaimed that Italian was the official language of Corsica. Seafront boulevard in Ajaccio, the island's capital and Napoleon I's birthplace The Corsican Republic was unable to eject the Genoese from the major coastal bodies. Following French losses in the Seven Years' War, Corsica was purchased by France from the Republic of Genoa in 1764. After an announcement and brief war in 1768•69 Corsican resistance was largely ended at the Battle of Ponte Novu. Despite triggering the Corsican Crisis in Britain, whose government gave secret aid, no foreign military support came for the Corsicans. Corsica was incorporated into France in 1770, marking the end of Corsican sovereignty. However, nationalist feelings still ran high. Following the outbreak of the French Revolution in 1789, Pasquale Paoli was able to return to Corsica from exile in Britain. In 1794 he invited British forces under Lord Hood to intervene to free Corsica from French rule. Anglo-Corsican forces drove the French from the island and established an Anglo-Corsican Kingdom. Following Spain's entry into the war the British decided to withdraw from Corsica in 1796. Corsica then returned to French Corsica rule. In 1814, near the end of the Napoleonic Wars, the island was briefly occupied again by British troops. The Treaty of Bastia gave the British crown sovereignty over the island, but it was later repudiated by Lord Castlereagh who insisted that the island should be returned to a restored French monarchy. The code of vendetta required Corsicans to seek deadly revenge for offences against their family's honor. Between 1821 and 1852, no fewer than 4,300 murders were perpetrated in Corsica.[3] Modern Corsica After the collapse of France to the German Wehrmacht in 1940, Corsica came under the rule of the Vichy French regime, which was collaborating with the Nazis. Following its liberation by Italian and Free French Forces shortly after the Italian armistice in 1943, the US military established 17 airfields on Corsica, nicknamed "USS Corsica" during the war, which served as bases for American tactical bomber groups attacking targets in German-occupied Italy. During the May 1958 crisis, French paratroopers landed on Corsica on 24 May, garrisoning the French island in a bloodless action called "Operation Corse." In recent decades, Corsican nationalism has been a feature of the island's politics, with calls for greater autonomy and protection for Corsican culture and the Corsican language. In 2013, Corsica hosted the first three stages of the 100th Tour de France, which passed through the island for the first time in the event's 110-year history. Geography Corsica was formed approximately 250 million years ago with the uplift of a granite backbone on the western side. About 50 million years ago sedimentary rock was pressed against The Bay of Calvi: Corsica is the most mountainous Mediterranean island. this granite, forming the schists of the eastern side. It is the most mountainous island in the Mediterranean, a "mountain in the sea". It is 183 kilometres (114‘mi) long at longest, 83 kilometres (52‘mi) wide at widest, has 1,000 kilometres (620‘mi) of coastline, more than 200 beaches, and is very mountainous, with Monte Cinto as the highest peak at 2,706 metres (8,878‘ft) and 20 other summits of more than 2,000 metres (6,600‘ft). Mountains comprise two-thirds of the island, forming a single chain. Forests make up 20% of the island. Approximately 3,500‘km2 (1,400‘sq‘mi) of the total surface area of 8,680‘km2 (3,350‘sq‘mi) is dedicated to nature reserves (Parc Naturel R‚gional de Corse), mainly in the interior. Corsica contains the GR20, one of Europe's most notable hiking trails. The island is 90 kilometres (56‘mi) from Tuscany in Italy and 170 kilometres (110‘mi) from the CŒte d'Azur in France. It is separated from Sardinia to the south by the Strait of Bonifacio, a minimum of 11 kilometres (6.8‘mi) wide. 162 Corsica 163 Major communities Main articles: Communes of the Haute-Corse department and Communes of the Corse-du-Sud department In 2005 the population of Corsica was settled in approximately 360 communities. Climate Under K¨ppen climate classification: hot-summer Mediterranean climate (Csa). Climate data for Ajaccio, central-western part of island Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year Average high …C (…F) 13.3 (55.9) 13.7 (56.7) 15.0 (59) 17.4 (63.3) 20.9 (69.6) 24.5 (76.1) 27.6 (81.7) 27.7 (81.9) 25.4 (77.7) 22.0 (71.6) 17.5 (63.5) 14.4 (57.9) 19.95 (67.91) Daily mean …C (…F) 8.6 (47.5) 9.0 (48.2) 10.1 (50.2) 12.3 (54.1) 15.7 (60.3) 19.1 (66.4) 21.9 (71.4) 22.1 (71.8) 19.9 (67.8) 16.7 (62.1) 12.6 (54.7) 9.6 (49.3) 14.80 (58.64) Average low …C (…F) 3.9 (39) 4.3 (39.7) 5.3 (41.5) 7.3 (45.1) 10.6 (51.1) 13.8 (56.8) 16.2 (61.2) 16.5 (61.7) 14.4 (57.9) 11.4 (52.5) 7.7 (45.9) 4.8 (40.6) 9.68 (49.42) 69.7 58.1 52.0 40.2 19.0 11.0 19.9 43.6 87.0 95.9 75.5 645.7 Precipitation 73.8 (2.906) (2.744) (2.287) (2.047) (1.583) (0.748) (0.433) (0.783) (1.717) (3.425) (3.776) (2.972) (25.421) mm (inches) Avg. precipitation days (‚ 1‚mm) 8.9 8.7 8.3 7.2 5.7 2.8 1.3 2.4 4.3 7.3 8.6 9.1 74.6 Mean monthly sunshine hours 133.3 145.0 189.1 225.0 282.1 321.0 365.8 331.7 264.0 210.8 150.0 127.1 2,744.9 Source: Hong Kong Observatory [4] Climate data for Bastia, north-eastern part of island Month Average high …C (…F) Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun 13.6 13.8 15.6 (56.5) (56.8) (60.1) 17.8 (64) 22.0 25.8 29.1 29.3 25.8 21.9 17.4 14.5 20.55 (71.6) (78.4) (84.4) (84.7) (78.4) (71.4) (63.3) (58.1) (68.97) Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year Daily mean …C (…F) 9.1 9.4 10.8 12.9 16.3 (48.4) (48.9) (51.4) (55.2) (61.3) Average low …C (…F) 5.1 4.9 6.7 8.8 12.4 16.0 19.0 19.4 16.5 13.3 9.2 6.3 11.47 (41.2) (40.8) (44.1) (47.8) (54.3) (60.8) (66.2) (66.9) (61.7) (55.9) (48.6) (43.3) (52.63) Precipitation mm (inches) Mean monthly sunshine hours 20.0 (68) Jul 23.2 23.3 20.6 17.1 12.9 10.1 15.48 (73.8) (73.9) (69.1) (62.8) (55.2) (50.2) (59.85) 67 57 60 76 50 41 13 21 81 (2.64) (2.24) (2.36) (2.99) (1.97) (1.61) (0.51) (0.83) (3.19) 134 158 192 214 268 296 345 304 232 Source: Quid 2004, page 618 and M•t•o-France, data for 1981•2010 127 (5) 176 114 93 800 (4.49) (3.66) (31.49) 133 128 2,580 Corsica 164 Ecology Corsica Native name: Corsica Nickname: L€‚le de Beaut• The Isle of Beauty Topography of Corsica Corsica (France) Geography Location Mediterranean Sea Area 8,680‘km (3,350‘sq‘mi) Length 184‘km (114.3‘mi) Width 83‘km (51.6‘mi) Coastline 1,000‘km (600‘mi) 2 Highest‚elevation 2,706‘m (8,878‘ft) Highest‚point Monte Cinto Country France R€gion Corsica Largest city Ajaccio‘(pop. 63,723) Demographics Corsica 165 Population 322,120 (as of January 2013) Density 37‘/km (96‘/sq‘mi) 2 Zones by altitude The island is divided into three major ecological zones by altitude. Below 600 metres (2,000‘ft) is the coastal zone, which features a Mediterranean climate, with hot, dry summers and mild, rainy winters. The natural vegetation is Mediterranean forests, woodlands, and shrubs. The coastal lowlands are part of the Tyrrhenian-Adriatic sclerophyllous and mixed forests ecoregion, in which forests and woodlands of evergreen sclerophyll oaks predominate, chiefly Holm Oak (Quercus ilex) and Cork Oak (Quercus suber). Much of the coastal lowlands have been cleared for agriculture, grazing and logging, which have reduced the forests considerably. There is considerable birdlife in Corsica. In some cases Corsica is a delimited part of the species range. For example, the subspecies of Hooded Crow, Corvus cornix ssp cornix occurs in Corsica, but no further south.[5] From 600 to 1,800 metres (2,000 to 5,900‘ft) is a temperate montane zone. The mountains are cooler and wetter, and home to the Corsican montane broadleaf and mixed forests ecoregion, which supports diverse forests of oak, pine, and broadleaf deciduous trees, with vegetation more typical of northern Europe. The population lives predominantly below 900 metres (3,000‘ft), with only shepherds and hikers at 600 to 900 metres (2,000 to 3,000‘ft). From 1,800 to 2,700 metres (5,900 to 8,900‘ft) is a high alpine zone. Vegetation is sparse. This zone is uninhabited. Parc Naturel R€gional de Corse The island has a natural park (Parc Naturel R‚gional de Corse, Parcu di Corsica), which protects rare animal and plant species. The Park was created in 1972 and includes the Golfe de Porto, the Scandola Nature Reserve (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), and some of the highest mountains on the island. Scandola cannot be reached on foot, but people can gain access by boat from the village of Gal‚ria and Porto (Ota). Two endangered subspecies of hoofed mammals, the mouflon (Ovis aries musimon) and Corsican red deer (Cervus elaphus corsicanus) inhabit the park. The Corsican red deer was re-introduced after it was extinct due to overhunting. This Corsican subspecies was the same that survived on Sardinia, so it's endemic. There are other species endemic to Corsica especially in the upper mountain ranges, i.e. Corsican Nuthatch, Corsican Fire Salamander and Corsican Brook Salamander and many plant subspecies. Extinct animals Corsica, like all the other Mediterranean islands, was home to indigenous animals of the Pleistocene, some endemic to it and some to it and Sardinia (as Sardinia was joined to Corsica for much of the Pleistocene). After the proliferation of humans in the Mesolithic, these began to disappear, partly from extinction of the species, and partly from eradication only in Corsica. However, it is now known that many species managed to survive the Mesolithic, and many were still present well into recorded history. The totally extinct species are Cynotherium sardous, Megaloceros cazioti, Asoriculus corsicanus, Talpa tyrrhenica, Prolagus sardus, Tyrrhenicola henseli, Rhagamys orthodon, Bubo insularis and Athene angelis. Birds were especially hard-hit. Some that were eradicated from the vicinity are Haliaeetos albicilla and Aquila heliaca. Corsica 166 Demographics See also: Corsican people Corsica has a population of 322,120 inhabitants (Jan. 2013 estimate). In the 1999 census, 87.1% of the population of Corsica were of French nationality[6] while 10% (26,018) had been born outside of France. The majority of immigrants were from the Maghreb region, particularly Moroccans (41.9% of immigrants) but also Italians (18.7%) and Portuguese (12.3%). Immigration Place of birth of residents of Corsica (at the 1982, 1990, 1999, and 2010 censuses) Census Born‚in‚Corsica Born in Born‚in Born‚in‚foreign Immigrants‡ Continental‚France Overseas‚France countries‚with‚French citizenship‚at‚birth† 2010 56.8% 28.1% 0.3% 5.1% 9.7% 3 1999 59.5% 24.8% 0.3% from‚the‚Maghreb from‚Southern‚Europe 4.4% 3.7% 5.5% 4 from‚the‚rest‚of‚the‚world 1.6% 10.0% 3 from‚the‚Maghreb from‚Southern‚Europe 5.3% 3.3% 1990 62.0% 21.3% 0.2% 6.0% 10.5% 1982 61.6% 20.4% 0.2% 6.0% 11.8% 4 from‚the‚rest‚of‚the‚world 1.4% °Essentially Pieds-Noirs who resettled in Corsica after the independence of Tunisia, Morocco and Algeria, many of whom had Corsican ancestry. •An immigrant is by French definition a person born in a foreign country and who didn't have French citizenship at birth. Note that an immigrant may have acquired French citizenship since moving to France, but is still listed as an immigrant in French statistics. On the other hand, persons born in France with foreign citizenship (the children of immigrants) are not listed as immigrants. 3 4 Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria Portugal, Italy, Spain Source: INSEE Corsica Culture Language Main article: Corsican language Corsica is one of the few regions of France that retains its own language in everyday usage: Corsican, which is more closely related to Italian than to French. However, since its takeover by France in the 18th century, French has dominated the media and commerce, and today it is estimated that only 10% of Corsica's population speak Corsican natively, with only 50% having some sort of proficiency in Corsican. Cuisine From the mountains to the plains and sea, many ingredients play a role. Game such as wild boar (Cingale, Singhjari) is popular. There also is seafood and river fish such as trout. Delicacies such as ficatellu (also named as ficateddu), coppa, ham (prizuttu), lonzu are made from Corsican pork (porcu nustrale). Cheeses like Chart of the dialects of the Corsican language, which also extends into northern Sardinia. brocciu, casgiu merzu, casgiu veghju are made from goat or sheep milk. Chestnuts are the main ingredient in the making of pulenta. A variety of alcohol also exists ranging from aquavita (brandy), red and white Corsican wines (Vinu Corsu), muscat wine (plain or sparkling), and the famous "Cap Corse" ap‚ritif produced by Mattei. Maquis, the brush that grows in the area, is eaten by local animals and grows near certain plants, resulting in the noticeable taste in the food there. Art Corsica has produced a number of known artists : Alizee, A Filetta (polyphonic chant group), Canta U Populu Corsu (band), Laetitia Casta (model/actress), Julien de Casabianca (cineast), J‚rŒme Ferrari (writer), Patrick Fiori (singer), Petru Guelfucci (singer), I Muvrini (band), Jenifer (singer), Fran…ois Lanzi (painter), Ange Leccia (visual art), Henri Padovani (musician, original guitarist from Police), Thierry de Peretti (cineast), Marie-Claude Pietragalla (dancer), Jean-Paul Poletti (singer), Robin Renucci (comedian), Tino Rossi (singer), C‚sar Vezzani (opera singer). 167 Corsica 168 Administration Before 1975, Corsica was a d•partment of the French region of Provence-Alpes-CŒte d'Azur. In 1975 two new d‚partements, Haute-Corse and Corse-du-Sud, were created by splitting the hitherto united departement of Corsica. On 2 March 1982, a law was passed that gave Corsica the status of territorial collectivity (collectivit• territoriale), abolishing the Corsican Regional Council which had existed before. Unlike the regional councils, the Corsican Assembly has executive powers over the island. In 1992, three institutions were formed in the territorial collectivity of Corsica: „ The Executive Council of Corsica, which exercises the type of executive functions held in other French regions by the presidents of the Regional Councils. It ensures the stability and consistency needed to manage the affairs of the territory; „ The Corsican Assembly, a deliberative, unicameral legislative body with greater powers than the regional councils on the mainland; „ The Economic, Social and Cultural Council of Corsica, an advisory body. A local referendum held in 2003, aimed at abolishing the two d•partements Map of Corsica to leave a territorial collectivity with extended powers, was voted down by a narrow margin. However, the issue of Corsican autonomy and greater powers for the Corsican Assembly continues to hold sway over Corsican politics. Economy Corsica is the least economically developed region in Metropolitan France. Tourism plays a big part in the Corsican economy. The island's climate, mountains, and coastlines make it popular among tourists. The island has not had the same level of intensive development as other parts of the Mediterranean and is thus mainly unspoiled. Tourism is particularly concentrated in the area around Porto-Vecchio and Bonifacio in the south of the island and Calvi in the northwest. In 1584 the Genoese governor ordered all farmers and landowners to plant four trees yearly; a chestnut, olive, fig, and mulberry tree. Many communities owe their origin and former richness to the ensuing chestnut woods.[7] Chestnut Corsica's coastline is a major driver for tourism • coastline by the town of Propriano [8] bread keeps fresh for as long as three weeks. Corsica produces gourmet cheese, wine, sausages, and honey for sale in mainland France and for export. Corsican honey, of which there are six official varieties, is certified as to its origin (Appellation d'origine contrŒl‚e) by the French National Institute of Origin and Quality (Institut National des Appellations d'Origine • INAO). Corsica's main exports are granite and marble, tannic acid, cork, cheese, wine, citrus fruit, olive oil and cigarettes. Corsica 169 Transport Railway Corsica has 232 kilometres (144 miles) of metre gauge railway. The main line runs between Bastia and Ajaccio and there is a branch line from Ponte-Leccia to Calvi. Chemins de Fer de la Corse (CFC) is the name of the regional rail network serving the French island of Corsica. For a list of stations, see Railway stations in Corsica. The railroad retains the air of a friendly local railroad and is an excellent way to get around the island, for both the inhabitants and [9] tourists. There is a third line along the east coast that is not in use due to heavy damage during World War II. There has been talk of restoration, but no progress has occurred. Politics There are several nationalist movements on the island calling for some degree of Corsican autonomy from France or even full independence. Generally speaking, autonomist proposals focus on the promotion of the Corsican language, more power for local governments, and some exemptions from national taxes in addition to those already applying to Corsica. The French government is opposed to full independence but has at times shown support for some level of autonomy. There is support on the island for proposals of greater autonomy, but polls show that a large majority of Corsicans [10] are opposed to full independence. In 1972, the Italian company Montedison dumped toxic waste off the Corsican coast, creating what looked like red mud in waters around the island with the poisoning of the sea, the most visible effects being cetaceans found dead on the shores. At that time the Corsican people felt that the French government did not support them since it did not complain to Italy to make this situation change. To stop the poisoning, one ship carrying toxic waste from Italy was bombed. Organisations started to seek money, acting like the Mafia, to fund violence. Some groups that claim to support Corsican independence, such as the National Liberation Front of Corsica, have carried out a violent campaign since the 1970s that includes bombings and assassinations, usually targeting buildings and officials representing the French government or Corsicans themselves for political reasons. A war between two rival independence groups led to several deaths in the 1990s. The peaceful occupation of a pied-noir vineyard in Al‚ria in 1975 marked a turning point when the French government responded with overwhelming force, generating sympathy for the independence groups among the Corsican population. Corsican nationalists have used means such as the removal of French names on road signs. In 2000, Prime Minister Lionel Jospin agreed to grant increased autonomy to Corsica. The proposed autonomy for Corsica would have included greater protection for the Corsican language (Corsu), the island's traditional language (similar to Italian), whose practice and teaching, like other regional or minority languages in France, had been discouraged in the past. According to the UNESCO classification, the Corsican language is currently in danger of becoming extinct. However, plans for increased autonomy were opposed by the Gaullist opposition in the French National Assembly, who feared that they would lead to calls for autonomy from other r•gions (such as Brittany, Alsace, or Provence), eventually threatening France's unity as a country. In a referendum on 6 July 2003, a narrow majority of Corsican voters opposed a project from the government of Jean-Pierre Raffarin and then-Interior Minister Nicolas Sarkozy that would have suppressed the two d•partements of Corsica 170 the island and granted greater autonomy to the territorial collectivity of Corsica. Notes [1] http:/ / www. corse. fr [2] " Ancient Corsica beckons with deserted beaches and historic structures (http:/ / articles. baltimoresun. com/ 1992-03-01/ features/ 1992061173_1_maquis-corsica-french-resistance/ 2)". The Baltimore Sun. 1 March 1992 [3] " Wanderings in Corsica: its history and its heroes (http:/ / books. google. com/ books?id=udhEAAAAYAAJ& pg=PA196& dq& hl=en#v=onepage& q=& f=false)". Ferdinand Gregorovius (1855). p.196. [4] "Climatological Information for Ajaccio, France" (http:/ / www. weather. gov. hk/ wxinfo/ climat/ world/ eng/ europe/ fr_sw/ ajaccio_e. htm) • Hong Kong Observatory [5] C. Michael Hogan. 2009. Hooded Crow: Corvus cornix, GlobalTwitcher.com, ed, N. Stromberg (http:/ / www. globaltwitcher. com/ artspec_information. asp?thingid=26307) [6] 2004 statistics: Atlas des populations immigr‚es en Corse (http:/ / www. insee. fr/ fr/ insee_regions/ corse/ themes/ dossiers/ atlasimmig/ atlasimmig. pdf) (French) [7] The Chestnut Tree (http:/ / www. terracorsa. info/ chestnut/ chestnut. html) in terracorsa. [8] The Grocer's Encyclopedia • Encyclopedia of Foods and Beverages (http:/ / digital. lib. msu. edu/ projects/ cookbooks/ books/ grocersencyclopedia/ ency. html). By Artemas Ward. New York. 1911. [9] For a detailed description of the railroad system see Simms, Wilfrid S., "The Railways of Corsica" (1997)(ISBN 0952888122). [10] EnquŠte: la Corse vue par les Corses - Rue89, Le nouvel observateur (http:/ / www. rue89. com/ rue89-politique/ 2012/ 08/ 06/ quoi-pensent-les-corses-quand-ils-pensent-la-corse-234434) Bibliography „ Loughlin, John. 1989. "Regionalism and Ethnic Nationalism in France: A Case-study of Corsica". Thesis. San Domenico, Italy: European University Institute. „ Loughlin, John, and Claude Olivesi (eds.). 1999. Autonomies insulaires: vers une politique de diff•rence pour la Corse. Ajaccio: Editions Albiana. ISBN 2-905124-47-4 „ Saul, John Ralston. 1992. Voltaire's Bastards: The Dictatorship of Reason in the West. New York: Free Press; Maxwell Macmillan International. ISBN 0-02-927725-6 External links „ Corsica : a mountain in the sea (http://www.france.fr/en/regions-and-cities/corsica-mountain-sea) • Official French website (in English) „ Costa, L.J.; C‚cile Costa (2005). "Pr‚histoire de la Corse" (http://www.prehistoire-corse.org/). Kyrnos Publications pour l'arch‚ologie. Retrieved 26 April 2008. (French) „ "TerraCorsa,I Muvrini and much more Corsican music" (http://www.terracorsa.info). TerraCorsa. Retrieved 22 August 2011. „ Dumas, Alexandre (2003) [1845]. "The Corsican Brothers" (http://web.archive.org/web/20080419073755/ http://arthursclassicnovels.com/arthurs/dumas/corsic10.html). Arthur's Classical Novels. Archived from the original (http://arthursclassicnovels.com/arthurs/dumas/corsic10.html) on 19 April 2008. Retrieved 27 April 2008. „ Corsica (http://www.dmoz.org/Regional/Europe/France/Regions/Corsica) at DMOZ (English) „ "National Geographic Magazine: Corsica Map" (http://yellowbordermagazine.com/ngm/0304/feature3/map. html). National Geographic Society. 2003. Retrieved 5 May 2008. „ "Corsica rejects autonomy offer by Paris" (http://web.archive.org/web/20080408111248/http://www.cnn. com/2003/WORLD/europe/07/06/corsica.poll/index.html). CNN. 6 July 2003. Archived from the original (http://www.cnn.com/2003/WORLD/europe/07/06/corsica.poll/index.html) on 8 April 2008. Retrieved 26 April 2008. „ Keyser, Will. "Corsica from the inside!" (http://www.corsica-isula.com). Corsica Isula. Retrieved 26 April 2008. Corsica 171 „ jabro. "Getting around in Corsica by bicycle" (http://www.jabro.net/photos-fotky/by-bicycle/category/ 2-korsika-corsica-corse). jabro.net. Retrieved 28 August 2009. „ Guiderdoni, jf. "A different visit of Corsica" (http://www.corsicaexperience.com). corsica_experience. Retrieved 5 June 2011. „ Ferries to Corsica (http://www.traghettiper-corsica.it/Navi_per_la_Corsica.pdf) Detailed technical specifications of the various ferry vessels, history, deckplans. (Italian) Coordinates: 42Ž9‹N 9Ž5‹E (http:/ / tools. wmflabs. org/ geohack/ geohack. php?pagename=Corsica& params=42_9_N_9_5_E_region:FR_type:adm1st) Savoy This article is about the historical region of Savoy. For other uses, see Savoy (disambiguation). For the two French d‚partements of the region of Savoy, see Savoie and Haute-Savoie. Savoy Savoie (French) Savou€ (Arpitan) Savoia (Italian) Sapaudia (Latin) Flag Anthem:‚Le Chant des Allobroges The Song of the Savoyards/Allobroges Capital and largest city Official languages Ethnic‚groups Chamb‚ry French French, Savoyard Savoy 172 [1] Demonym Savoyard (in widespread use nowadays), Savoyan(historic; today uncommon) Legislature Sovereign Senate of Savoy(dissolved in 1860) Savoisian (name before annexation), Annexed‚Annexed to France on June 14, 1860 ‘-‘ Savoy raised to a duchy by Emperor Sigismund February 19, 1416‘ Area ‘-‘ Total 10,416‘km2 4,022‘sq‘mi Population ‘-‘ 2008‘estimate Time zone ‘-‘ Summer‘(DST) 1,125,119 CET (UTC+1) CEST‘(UTC+2) Drives on the right Calling code 33 Savoy (/s‡’vŒ™/; Arpitan: Savouƒ, IPA:‘[sa’vw‰]; French: Savoie, IPA:‘[savwa]; Italian: Savoia) is a region of France. It comprises roughly the territory of the Western Alps between Lake Geneva in the north and Dauphin‚ in the south. The historical land of Savoy emerged as the feudal territory of the House of Savoy during the 11th to 14th centuries. The historical territory is shared between the modern republics of France, Italy, and Switzerland. Installed by Rudolph III, King of Burgundy, officially in 1003, the House of Savoy became the longest surviving royal house in Europe.[2] It ruled the County of Savoy to 1416 and then the Duchy of Savoy from 1416 to 1714. The territory of Savoy was annexed to France in 1792 under the French First Republic, before being returned to the Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia in 1815. Savoy, along with the county of Nice, was finally annexed to France by a plebiscite, under the Second French Empire in 1860, as part of a political agreement (Treaty of Turin) brokered between the French emperor Napoleon III and King Victor Emmanuel II of the Kingdom of Sardinia that began the process of unification of Italy. Victor Emmanuel's dynasty, the House of Savoy, retained its Italian lands of Piedmont and Liguria and became the ruling dynasty of Italy. Geography In modern France, Savoy is part of the RhŒne-Alpes region. Following its annexation to France in 1860 by a plebiscite, the territory of Savoy was divided administratively into two separate departments, Savoie and Haute-Savoie. The traditional capital remains Chamb‚ry (Ciamber±), on the rivers Leysse and Albane, hosting the castle of the House of Savoy and the Savoyard senate. The state included six districts: „ Savoie Propre, sometimes known as Ducal Savoy (capital Chamb‚ry) „ Chablais (capital Thonon-les-Bains) „ Faucigny (capital Bonneville) „ Tarentaise (capital Mo•tiers) „ Maurienne (capital Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne) Alpine landscape of Les Saisies, as seen from Mont Bisanne. Savoy 173 „ Genevois (capital Annecy) The County and Duchy of Savoy incorporated Turin and other territories in Piedmont, a region in northwestern Italy that borders Savoy, which were also possessions of the House of Savoy. The capital of the Duchy remained at the traditional Savoyard capital of Chamb‚ry until 1563, when it was moved to Turin. History Early history The region occupied by the Allobroges, a Celtic people became part of the Roman Empire. The name Savoy stems [3] from the Late Latin Sapaudia, referring to a fir forest. It is first recorded in Ammianus Marcellinus (354), to [4] describe the southern part of Maxima Sequanorum. According to the Gallic Chronicle of 452, it was separated [5] from the rest of Burgundian territories in 443, after the Burgundian defeat by Flavius Aetius. Early and High Middle Ages Further information: County of Savoy By the 8th century, the territory that would later become known as Savoy was part of the Kingdom of the Franks, and at the division of Francia at the Treaty of Verdun in 843, it became part of the short-lived kingdom of Middle Francia. After only 12 years, at the death of Lothair I in 855, Middle Francia was divided into Lotharingia north of the Alps, Italy south of the Alps, and the parts of Burgundy in the Western Alps, inherited by Charles son of Lothair. This latter territory comprised what would become known as Savoy and Provence. From the 10th to 14th century, parts of what would ultimately become Savoy remained within the Kingdom of Arles. Beginning in the 11th century, the gradual rise to power of the House of Savoy is reflected in the increasing territory of their County of Savoy between 1003 and 1416. The County of Savoy was detached de jure from the Kingdom of Arles by Emperor Charles IV in 1361. It acquired the County of Nice in 1388, and in 1401 added the County of Genevois, the area of Geneva except for the city proper, which was ruled by its prince-bishop, nominally under the duke's rule: the bishops of Geneva, by unspoken agreement, came from the House of Savoy; this agreement came to an end in 1533.[6] Duchy of Savoy Main article: Duchy of Savoy Duchy of Savoy (red) and other Italian states in 1494. Savoy On February 19, 1416, Sigismund, Holy Roman Emperor, made the County of Savoy an independent duchy, with Amadeus VIII as the first duke. Straddling the Alps, Savoy lay within two competing spheres of influence, a French sphere and a North Italian one. At the time of the Renaissance, Savoy [7] showed only modest development. Its [8] towns were few and small. Savoy derived its subsistence from [9] agriculture. The geographic location of Savoy was also of military importance.[10] During the interminable wars between France and Spain over the Map of Savoy in the 16th century, white lines are modern borders control of northern Italy, Savoy was important to France because it provided access to Italy.[11] Savoy was important to Spain because it served as a buffer between France and the Spanish held lands in Italy.[12] In 1563 Emmanuel Philibert moved the capital from Chamb‚ry to Turin, which was less vulnerable to French interference.[13] Vaud was annexed by Bern in 1536, and Savoy officially ceded Vaud to Bern in the Treaty of Lausanne of 30 October 1564. In 1714, as a consequence of the War of the Spanish Succession, Savoy was technically subsumed into the Kingdom of Sicily, then (after that island was traded to Austria for Sardinia) the Kingdom of Sardinia from 1720. While the heads of the House of Savoy were known as the Kings of Sardinia, Turin remained their capital. French Revolutionary Wars Savoy was occupied by French revolutionary forces between 1792 and 1815. The region was first added to the d‚partement of Mont-Blanc, then in 1798 was divided between the d‚partements of Mont-Blanc and L‚man (French name of Lake Geneva.) In 1801, Savoy officially left the Holy Roman Empire.[14] On September 13, 1793 the combined forces of Savoy, Piedmont and Aosta Valley fought against and lost to the occupying French forces at the Battle of M‚ribel (Sallanches). Two-thirds of Savoy was restored to the Kingdom of Sardinia in the First Restoration of 1814 following Napoleon's abdication; approximately one-third of Savoy, including the two most important cities of Chamb‚ry and Annecy, remained in France. Following Napoleon's brief return to power during the Hundred Days and subsequent defeat at Waterloo, the remaining one-third of Savoy was restored to the Kingdom of Sardinia at the Congress of Vienna to strengthen Sardinia as a buffer state on France's southeastern border. 174 Savoy 175 Modern history From 1815 until 1860 Savoy was part of the Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia. Annexation to France The French Second Republic first attempted to annex Savoy in 1848. Corps were dispatched from Lyons and invaded the capital of Savoy [Chamb‚ry] and proclaimed the annexation to France. On learning about the invasion countrymen rushed to Chamb‚ry. The corps were chased away by the local population and many were massacred.[15] Robert L‚opold Leprince - View of Savoy (Walters Art Museum). In order to secure an alliance against Austria in the wars of unification of Italy, the Prime Minister of the Kingdom of Sardinia Camillo Cavour met in secret with the French emperor Napoleon III on July 21, 1858 in Plombi€res (Vosges). During the discussion, Cavour promised that Sardinia would cede the County of Nice and Duchy of Savoy to France in exchange for military support in a planned war against Austria. Though this was a secret arrangement, it quickly became widely known.[16] The treaty annexing Nice and Savoy to France was signed in Turin on March 24, 1860 (Treaty of Turin). In the northern provinces of the Chablais and Faucigny, there was some sympathy for annexation to neighboring Switzerland, with which the northern provinces had longstanding economic ties. To help reduce the attractiveness of Switzerland, the French government conceded a free-trade Zone that Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia (blue) and other Italian states in 1843. maintained the longstanding duty-free relationship of northern Savoyard communes to Geneva. The treaty was followed on April 22•23 by a plebiscite employing universal male suffrage, in which voters were offered the option of voting "yes" to approve the treaty and join France or rejecting the treaty with a no vote. The disallowed options of either joining Switzerland, remaining with Italy, or regaining its independence, were the source of some opposition. With a 99.8% vote in favour of joining France, there were allegations of vote-rigging, notably by the British government, which opposed continental expansion by its traditional French enemy. The correspondent of The Times in Savoy who was in Bonneville on April 22 called the vote "the lowest and most immoral farce(s) which was ever played in the history of nations".[17] He finished his letter with those words: I leave you to draw your own conclusions from this trip, which will show clearly what the vote was in this part of Savoy. The vote was the bitterest irony ever made on popular suffrage. The ballot-box in the hands of those very authorities who issued the proclamations; no control possible; even travellers suspected and dogged lest they should pry into the matter; all opposition put down by intimidation, and all liberty of action completely taken away. One can really scarcely reproach the Opposition with having given up the game; there was too great force used against them. As for the result of the vote, therefore, no one need trouble himself about it; it will be just as brilliant as that in Nice. The only danger is lest the Savoy authorities in their zeal should fare as some of the French did in the vote of 1852, finding to their surprise rather more votes than voters inscribed on the list. Savoy 176 In his letter to the ambassador of Vienna Lord A. Loftus, the then Foreign Secretary Lord John Russell said "Voting in Savoy and Nice a farce ... we are neither entertained or edified".[18] The annexation was promulgated on June 14, 1860. On August 23, 1860 and March 7, 1861, two agreements were signed between the French Empire and the Kingdom of Sardinia to settle the remaining issues concerning the annexation. French annexation in 1860 (black) after the signing of the Treaty of Turin and a regional referendum in favor of the attachment to France. 20th century In 1919, France officially (but contrary to the annexation treaty) ended the military neutrality of the parts of the country of Savoy that had originally been agreed to at the Congress of Vienna, and also eliminated the free trade zone - both treaty articles having been broken unofficially in World War I. France was condemned in 1932 by the international court for noncompliance with the measures of the Treaty of Turin regarding the provinces of Savoy and Nice. The Ch‰teau de Chamb‚ry, seat of government, was given a grand new fa…ade following In 1960, the term annexation having acquired negative connotations in France, particularly after Germany's 1871 annexation of annexation Alsace-Lorraine, the annexation was renamed Rattachement de la [19] Savoie † la France (Incorporation of Savoy to France). It was the latter term which was used by the French authorities during the festivities celebrating the 100th anniversary of the [20] annexation. Daniel Rops of the French Academy justified the new title with these words: Savoy has begun to solemnize the feasts in 1960, commemorating the centenary of its incorporation (rattachement) to France. It is on purpose that the word incorporation (rattachement) is highlighted here: the Savoyards attach great value to it, and it is the only one they have resolved to use in the official terminology of the Centenary. In that, they are infinitely right. Yesterday another term that was used: annexation. Looking at it more closely it was wrong! Can we say annexation when we talk about a decision which was approved by 130,889 voters over 135,449? [...]. Savoy was not annexed [...] but actually incorporated freely and by the will of its inhabitants. A former French deputy, P. Taponnier, spoke of the annexation: In late March 1860, the betrothal ceremony of Savoy to France took place in Tuileries Palace [...], a ceremony which was a pact of love and fidelity [...] it is with free consent that she [Savoy] gave itself to France by a solemn plebiscite which our leaders can ignore neither the terms nor the commitments. [...] Savoy 177 May the bells of our cities [...] in Savoy vibrate in unison to glorify, in this magnificent Centenary, the indefectible commitment of Savoy to France. The Savoyards did not feel Italian. Besides, they spoke French. This explains why in 1858-1859 when rumours ran of the Plombi€res secret agreement, where Napoleon III and Cavour decided of the fate of Savoy, the Savoyards themselves took the initiative to ask for the incorporation (rattachement). [...] Incorporation, not annexation [...] The incorporation was an act of free will, in the logical order of geography and history [...]. Modern regionalist politics Since the mid twentieth-century, regionalist movements have appeared in Savoy much as in other historic provinces of France. The Mouvement R•gion Savoie (Savoy Regional Movement) was founded in December 1971 as a 'movement' (rather than a traditional political party) in favour of regional autonomy. Unlike other historic provinces, including Alsace and Brittany, Savoy does not currently have its own region within France and is part of the RhŒne-Alpes region. In the 1996 local elections, the Savoy Regional Movement received 19,434 votes; it received 4,849 in the 1998 regional elections. A new non-party organisation, La R•gion Savoie, j€y crois ! (I believe in the Savoy Region!), was founded in 1998. The organisation campaigns for the replacement of the Savoie and Haute-Savoie departments with a regional government, separate from the RhŒne-Alpes region, with greater devolved powers. A very marginal separatist movement has also appeared in Savoy within the past twenty years, most prominently represented by the Ligue Savoisienne, founded in 1994. In the March 1998 regional elections, 1 seat (out of 23) was won by Patrice Abeille, leader of the Ligue, which won a total of 17,865 votes across the two departments. In 2004, Waiting for Freedom in Savoy[21] was founded to promote the peaceful separatist cause to young people. According to surveys conducted in 2000, between 41% and 55% of the population were in favour of the proposal for a separate Savoy region, while 19% to 23% were in favour of separation from France. Towards the end of 2005, Herv‚ Gaymard called for Savoie to be given special status, similar to a French region, under his proposed "Conseil des Pays de Savoie".[22] Modern historiographical debates In recent years, sparked by the admittedly tiny Savoyard separatist movement, much attention has been focused on questioning the validity of the 1860 annexation. The Ligue Savoisienne, for example, rejects the Treaty of Turin and subsequent plebiscite as null and void, arguing that the plebiscite did not meet the standards of a free and fair vote. Today, historians generally acknowledge that the plebiscite of 1860 did feature irregularities, but they also affirm that the annexation instrument was the Treaty of Turin and not the plebiscite, whose main purpose was to demonstrate favorable public opinion in Savoy for the annexation after the signature of the treaty.[23] In an interview for the newspaper Le Dauphin• Lib•r•, Sylvain Milbach, a historian at the University of Savoy, qualifies the vote as Napoleonic, but also argues that a completely free and fair vote would not have dramatically changed the outcome, [24] as the majority of Savoyards wished to become French. This is today the official stance of the General Council of Savoie. Savoy 178 Notes [1] Jack D. Street. "The Independence of Savoy and the Autonomy of the Valle d'Aosta", The French Review, Vol 71, No 3, Feb. 1998, pp 396-404 accessed 4 Oct 2008. [2] The Romance of the House of Savoy;(Vol.1)Weil,Alethea.Putnam,New York(1898)openlibrary.org/books/ol23330616m,Intro.pg.1 [3] Modern French sapin; sapini€re signifies "fir forest". [4] The territory, which has no modern counterpart, was perhaps bounded by the rivers Ain and RhŒne, Lac L‚man, the Jura and the Aar, though historians differ, and there seems to be insufficient evidence: see Norman H. Baynes, reviewing A. Coville, Recherches sur l'Histoire de Lyon du Ve au IXe Siƒcle (450-800) in The English Historical Review 45 No. 179 (July 1930:470-474) p 471. [5] Sapaudia Burgundionum reliquiis datur cum indigenis dividenda. (in T. Mommsen, Chronica Minora II:660, 128. [6] See the career of the last prince-bishop Pierre de La Baume. [7] Henry S. Lucas, The Renaissance and the Reformation (Harper & Bros. Publishers: New York, 1960) p. 42. [8] Ibid. [9] Ibid. [10] Henry S. Lucas, The Renaissance and the Reformation (Harper & Bros. Publishers: New York, 1960) p. 42. [11] Henry S. Lucas, The Renaissance and the Reformation, p. 42. [12] Ibid. [13] Robert Katz, The Fall of the House of Savoy (The MacMillan Company: New York, 1971) p. 18. [14] Heiliges R¨misches Reich [15] [Journal de Gen€ve], 22 avril 1860. Le Temps, Archives historiques (http:/ / www. letempsarchives. ch/ ) Articles (http:/ / docs. google. com/ View?id=dhkjtttj_128n72dfwcq) [16] Lord John Russell address to the House of Common, July 5, 1861, HC Deb 05 July 1861 vol 164 cc436-61 (http:/ / hansard. millbanksystems. com/ commons/ 1861/ jul/ 05/ question-2) [17] The Times (http:/ / archive. timesonline. co. uk/ tol/ archive/ ), April 28, 1860, Universal Suffrage In Savoy (http:/ / blog. regionleman. com/ post/ annexion-rattachement-reunion-annexation-savoie-savoy-150-ans-anniversaire). [18] PRO 30/22/98 Austria. Vol 1. Legation (from Nov. 1860) embassy in Vienna. Private correspondence (drafts). Lord John (from 1861 earl) Russell, foreign secretary to Hon. Julian Fane, legation later embassy secretary; Lord Augustus Loftus, envoy; Lord Bloomfield, ambassador. Document conserved at The National Archives (http:/ / www. nationalarchives. gov. uk/ ) [19] The word rattachement (incorporation) was preferred to r•union which may remind of the Anschluss. [20] La Savoie au miroir du Centenaire de son Rattachement ‡ la France (http:/ / doc-iep. univ-lyon2. fr/ Ressources/ Documents/ Etudiants/ Memoires/ MFE2001/ lacharmea/ these. html), Lacharme Amandine [21] Waiting for Freedom in Savoy (http:/ / www. wffis. org/ ) [22] R‚gion Savoie (http:/ / www. regionsavoie. com/ fichiers/ CDP_du_031105. pdf). [23] 1860, La Savoie de l'Annexion (http:/ / www. savoie. fr/ archives73/ expo_annexion/ pano_5_/ thumb. html), Archives D‚partementales de la Savoie [24] Savoie Fran…aise: Sylvain Milbach: •Le "oui" ‚tait acquisƒ (http:/ / www. ledauphine. com/ savoie-francaise-sylvain-milbach-le-oui-etait-acquis--@/ index. jspz?article=122676) External links „ The History of the Annexation of Savoy and Nice to France according to the United Kingdom, Switzerland and the others... (http://sites.google.com/site/savoyannexation/) „ Universal Suffrage under Napoleon III by Adams, Charles Kendall (http://digital.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/ text/pageviewer-idx?c=nora;cc=nora;q1=savoy;rgn=full text;idno=nora0117-2;didno=nora0117-2;view=image;seq=364;page=root;size=s;frm=frameset;) „ Savoy Region Movement (http://www.regionsavoie.fr) (in French) „ Ligue Savoisienne (in English) (http://notre.savoie.free.fr/) „ Francia Media}: a territorial and genealogical disambiguation of Lorraine and Burgundy, with a section on Savoy (http://www.friesian.com/lorraine.htm) Article Sources and Contributors Article Sources and Contributors Culture of France ‘Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?oldid=611603926 ‘Contributors: *Paul*, 16@r, 1exec1, A Retarded Grandmother, A3 nm, A412, Acroterion, Adam78, Adambiswanger1, Adrian, Afro-Eurasian, After Midnight, Aherunar, Akuru, Alansohn, Alex.muller, AlexCovarrubias, Alexandre8, AlexiusHoratius, Alkivar, Allstarecho, Alpha Quadrant 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