Crantock to Perran Sands
Transcription
Crantock to Perran Sands
Walks on and around the 4. Reaching the road in Holywell, turn right to pick up the South West Coast Path heading to the right again. Follow it around Penhale Point and on past the military camp, the masts and the mine workings, to Hoblyn's Cove. Carry on around Ligger Point and on to the dunes at Penhale Sands. A striking feature of this part of coastline is the extent of the mine workings on and around the cliffs. The earliest records of Penhale Mine show it as producing some 41 tons of lead ore in 1777, but undoubtedly the area's mineral resources were exploited for many centuries before this. Ligger House, on Penhale Point, is the former count house for the mine. Auctions were conducted in the building, and miners would bid for underground leases (or pitches). 5. The path passes a disused quarry with an old cave nearby and then carries on along the edge of the dunes. It is important to take heed of the notices along here requesting that you stay on the Coast Path. There is no right of way in the dunes behind, which are used by the MoD for firing practice, and the Coast Path travels along a permissive path to the natural valley running through the dunes about a mile from the quarry at 6. 6. Bear left with the Coast Path to head inland along the edge of the MoD land until you come to the footpath back to Perran Sands. Text and photos by Ruth Luckhurst from Perran Sands Holiday Park A Swanvale mouse Crantock to Perran Sands Take the bus to Crantock and walk back around the rocky coastline, above golden beaches and through dunes that are a haven for wildlife. Listen out for the mythical Gannel crake, and look out for real-life seals and dolphins. Reverse the directions to walk to Crantock and catch the bus back (remember to check the time of the last bus back!) The South West Coast Path Association (www.southwestcoastpath.org.uk) exists to help everyone enjoy the coast path. Other useful information Transport information - The Western Greyhound Bus 587 travels frequently between Newquay and Truro, stopping at Winstowe Terrace Hail & Ride in Crantock, as well as at Perran Sands. For details visit www.travelinesw.com or phone 0871 200 22 33 Toilets - In Crantock and Holywell Refreshments - In Crantock and Holywell Further information - Newquay Tourist Information Centre - 01637 854020 Other useful websites: www.visitnewquay.org www.newquay.co.uk www.newquayguide.co.uk www.haven.com/perransands Produced by the South West Coast Path Team with support from: Distance: 7¼ miles (11¾km) Estimated time: 3¼ hours Difficulty: Strenuous Starting point: Take the 587 bus towards Newquay from Perran Sands entrance to Crantock OS Explorer map 104 Redruth & St Agnes This is one of the many walks that can be found at The European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development: Europe Investing in rural areas www.southwestcoastpath.com Directions 1. Take the 587 bus towards Newquay from the bus stop at Perran Sands entrance and get off at Crantock. Head down Halwyn Hill to the square and turn left down Green Lane to take the footpath on your left, forking left again to walk to the South West Coast Path, above Crantock Beach. 2. Reaching the South West Coast Path, turn left and follow it around Pentire Point West and on to Porth Joke ('Polly Joke' as it is known to the locals). 'Porth Joke' comes from the Cornish 'Porth Lojowek', meaning 'cove rich in plants'. Traditional conservation techniques used here have encouraged an astonishing 154 species of wildflower to flourish. In a ne wyn Hal Start 3. Carry on along the Coast Path as it continues around Kelsey Head and drops into the dunes behind Holywell Beach to come out by the first houses in Holywell. Kelsey Head is a Site of Special Scientific Interest with a wide range of habitats, the most extensive being the sand dune system and the maritime grassland which has grown over wind-blown sand around the fringes of the headlands and on Cubert Common. Other important wildlife areas are the wet meadows alongside the stream as you walk to Porth Joke and the brackish marsh at Holywell Bay. rveymaps.co.uk RVEY 2012 www.ha Base mapping ©HA Listen out for the Gannel crake, a mythical bird whose desolate howl has been heard all around Crantock Beach. The name is attributed to two brothers who were once working beneath West Pentire, gathering seaweed to use as fertiliser. One of the brothers described the sound, which frightened their horses into galloping away, as 'like a thousand voices in pent-up misery with one long-drawn wail dying away into the distance.’ nL Hi l l Gre e Crantock is said to be the site of the Lost City of Langarrow, buried by a sandstorm after the hedonistic lifestyle of its inhabitants brought the wrath of God upon their heads. It is named after the sixth century Celtic saint, Carantoc, who supposedly arrived by sea on an altar and built an oratory here. This blossomed into a College of Priests, a major religious centre until it was dismantled under Henry VIII's Dissolution of Monasteries in the sixteenth century. The 'Round Orchard' in the centre of the village is thought to be the site of St Carantoc's sixth century chapel. There are also two medieval holy wells in the village. On the far side of Crantock Beach is the mouth of the River Gannel. In the fifteenth century the mouth of the River Gannel was a thriving port, and until as late as the end of the nineteenth century it was used extensively by shipping. Vessels brought their cargoes of coal, fertiliser, limestone and earthenware into Fern Pit on the Newquay bank of the river. This was then transferred to shallow-draught barges to be carried on the flood tide up to Trevemper, an important commercial centre three miles upstream. summer the headland is ablaze with the vivid heads of poppies and corn marigolds, also providing seeds for birds like buntings, partridge and finches. River Ga nnel A number of rare plants grow around here, including sea holly in the sand dunes and Babington's leek in the area of marshland. The particularly unusual and beautiful silverstudded blue butterfly has also been seen at Kelsey Head, and the stripe-winged grasshopper spotted here is one of only three sightings in Devon and Cornwall in recent years. The headland and the offshore islands are also noteworthy for the colonies of breeding seabirds including guillemots, shags and razorbills. The small island just offshore as you round the headland is known as The Chick. Look out for grey seals here, especially at low tide. Sometimes dolphins can be seen too. Finish at Perran Sands Holiday Park Evidence of human activity has been found around Kelsey Head dating back to Mesolithic (Middle Stone Age) times, around 8000-4000 BC. There are also tumuli, or burial barrows, dating from the Bronze Age, around 3000 BC, and archaeologists have identified two Iron Age cliff castles here. Walks on and around the A striking feature of this part of coastline is the extent of the mine workings on and around the cliffs. The earliest records of Penhale Mine show it as producing some 41 tons of lead ore in 1777, but undoubtedly the area's mineral resources were exploited for many centuries before this. Ligger House, on Penhale Point, is the former count house for the mine. Auctions were conducted in the building, and miners would bid for underground leases (or pitches). 9. The path passes a disused quarry with an old cave nearby and then carries on along the edge of the dunes. It is important to take heed of the notices along here requesting that you stay on the Coast Path. There is no right of way in the dunes behind, which are used by the MoD for firing practice, and the Coast Path travels along a permissive path to the natural valley running through the dunes about a mile from the quarry. 10. Bear left with the Coast Path to head inland along the edge of the MoD territory until you come to the footpath back to Perran Sands. from Perran Sands Holiday Park A Swanvale mouse Penhale and Holywell A long but enchanting walk through an area rich in wildlife and history. Lush streamside vegetation borders grassland dotted with wildflowers, and there is a delightful nature reserve in a tiny copse, as well as an abundance of species in Penhale Dunes. Holywell boasts two holy wells, as well as a sandy beach, and the rock features and old mine workings at Penhale are guaranteed to enthrall. The South West Coast Path Association (www.southwestcoastpath.org.uk) exists to help everyone enjoy the coast path. Text and photos by Ruth Luckhurst Other useful information Toilets - In Holywell Refreshments- In Holywell Further information - Newquay Tourist Information Centre - 01637 854020 Other useful websites: www.visitnewquay.org www.newquay.co.uk www.newquayguide.co.uk www.haven.com/perransands Distance: 7¾ miles (12½km) Estimated time: 3½ hours Difficulty: Strenuous Starting point: Reception at Perran Sands Holiday Park Produced by the South West Coast Path Team with support from: OS Explorer map 104 Redruth & St Agnes This is one of the many walks that can be found at The European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development: Europe Investing in rural areas www.southwestcoastpath.com Directions 1. From Reception in Perran Sands Holiday Park take the footpath past Wheal Retreat and Piran point, heading northwards into the dunes, towards St Piran's Oratory, which is marked with an interpretation board. The fifth century Irish missionary St Piran arrived here on a millstone, having been thrown into the sea with it tied around his neck. He built his Oratory here and preached to crowds of pilgrims who flocked to hear him (see the St Piran's Oratory Walk). Penhale Point between the fifth and eighth centuries. This is further evidence of the strong trade links known to have existed between Cornwall and Mediterranean lands at that time. 8 Cubert Well However, there is evidence of settlement in the area from much earlier. Traces of human activity have been found around Kelsey Head dating back to Mesolithic (Middle Stone Age) times, around 8000-4000 BC. Base mapping © HARVEY 2012 www.harveymaps.co.uk Hoblyn’s Cove 2. From the Oratory take the path heading to your right, eastwards, and follow it to the ruins of St Piran's Church, half-buried in the sand a little way to the left of the modern cross. En route you will pass the inland route of the South West Coast Path on your right. 7. Bear left and then turn left onto the path leading towards the bottom hedge and turning right onto the footpath, to follow it along the valley to Holywell. There are two wells in Holywell, and it is not known which gave the village its name. 9 This is the site of the church that was built sometime in the ninth century, after the Oratory was overwhelmed by wind-blown sand. The cross in the dunes beside it is believed to be the oldest of Cornwall's many ancient crosses, and was recorded in AD 960, by which time it was already long-established. St Piran’s St Piran’s Oratory Church 3. From the ruins of St. Piran’s church retrace your steps to the inland coast path and turn left onto it. Follow it ahead to Tollgate Road. 4. Turn left on the road and follow it past Higher Mount Farm and gently downhill through Mount, to where it takes a sharp turn to the right. 10 5. Turn left at the bend, onto the footpath beside the MoD drive. Follow the path as it bears gently right to lead into the trees beyond about half a mile ahead. 6. Reaching the path which crosses yours as you pull uphill out of the trees, turn left and follow this footpath along the bottom of the hill to Ellenglaze, ahead. Wheal Retreat Start and Finish at Perran Sands Holiday Park In 1945, archaeologists discovered lines of walls previously covered by wind-blown sand, about 280m west of Ellenglaze Manor. When the site was later excavated, fragments of pottery were found in the walls confirmed that and other similar walls nearby were from an early medieval settlement associated with Ellenglaze Manor. The original Manor dates from some time before the 1086 Domesday Book, although the present house is thought to have been built in the eighteenth century around a seventeenth-century core. During another dig, a quantity of brick red ware was found nearby and subsequently identified as Phoenician red slip ware from western Turkey, dating from sometime Mount Higher Mount Farm Holywell Cave (off the map to the north!) can be seen at low tide on Holywell Beach beneath the southern cliffs of Kelsey Head. Although it seems to be no more than a slit from the beach, on entering the cave it is possible to make out some slimy steps leading up a series of pools to a hole in the roof of the cave. Tinted red and blue, with the edges of the pools encrusted with calcareous deposits formed by water rich in minerals dripping from above, the cave was seized upon by Victorian Romantics as the holy well after which the bay was named. However, it is likely that it is an entirely natural feature, and the real well of Holywell is St Cubert's, in the Trevornick Valley and on land which is now part of the Holywell Bay Fun Park. Thought to be fourteenth century, Cubert Well is reached via a high Gothic arch set into an ivy-clad perimeter wall. Inside, ad a series of stepping stones leads across marshland to a Ro te granite well house, built into a rocky and overgrown bank. Two ga l l To sides of the well house are lined with stone seats and there are niches cut into the back well, probably for candles or statues. The well was discovered in a ruined state in 1916 and has been restored by the Newquay Old Cornwall Society. Cornish crime writer W. J. Burley, who was born in Falmouth, lived in Holywell until his death in 2002. Best known for his detective novels featuring Charles Wycliffe, televised in the mid 1990s, Burley won a scholarship to study zoology at Oxford after the Second World War and was Head of Biology at Newquay Grammar School until he retired in 1974, by which time he was well established as a novelist. 8. Reaching the road in Holywell, turn left to pick up the South West Coast Path heading to the right. Follow it around Penhale Point and on past the military camp, the masts and the mine workings, to Hoblyn's Cove. Carry on around Ligger Point and on to the dunes at Penhale Sands. Walks on and around the 3. Ignoring the path to the right, continue ahead on the Coast Path above rocky coves dotted with tiny islets, passing Green Island and heading to the seaward side of an old airfield. from Perran Sands Holiday Park This was a WWII airfield and the wartime shelters can be seen above the cliffs. The airfield is still in use by light aircraft, including gliders, whose pilots' clubhouse is in the buildings of the Old British and Colonial Explosives factory, at Cligga Head. A Swanvale mouse 4. Passing the headland at Pen a Grader, carry on above the spectacular red cliffs above Hanover Cove. Many of the cliffs along this part of the coastline are dramatically stained by the minerals in the rock. Hanover Cove is named after the Falmouth packet ship which was wrecked here in 1763, driven onshore with a cargo of gold coins worth £60,000. 5. Ignoring the network of paths heading inland, continue ahead as the Coast Path travels around the old mine workings at Cligga Head. The South West Coast Path Association (www.southwestcoastpath.org.uk) exists to help everyone enjoy the coast path. As well as tin, the mines at Cligga Head produced tungsten, used in World War II for armour-plating and armour-piercing shells. Other useful information The conical mesh caps over the mine workings here are known as 'bat castles'. They are designed to prevent people from falling into the old shafts while still allowing access to the colonies of bats living here, including the rare greater horseshoe bat. Transport information -The First Bus 985 travels to Threemilestone, Truro College, stopping at the Church on Churchtown in St Agnes. The Western Greyhound 547 to St Ives and the Travel Cornwall 403 to Truro both stop at Vicarage Road in St Agnes. For details visit www.travelinesw.com or phone 0871 200 22 33 6. After Cligga Head the path begins to descend, past Shag Rock and Droskyn Point, coming out on Cliff Road in Perranporth. From here either carry on along the beach to pick up the footpath through the dunes back to Perran Sands or turn right to go into Perranporth, and return to Perran Sands from there. Text and photos by Ruth Luckhurst St Agnes to Perran Sands Take the bus to St Agnes and walk back along the top of high cliffs, through the silent remnants of what was once one of Cornwall's busiest mining areas. In summer this is a riot of colour, with blazing gorse bushes and banks of vivid heather, wildflowers dotted between them and the mineral-stained cliffs startlingly red against the blue sea. There are some stretches of very steep ascent and descent, and in places the stony path passes close to high cliffs. Toilets - In Perranporth, Droskyn and Trevaunance Cove Refreshments- In Perranporth and St Agnes Further information - Newquay Tourist Information Centre 01637 854020 Other useful websites: www.visitnewquay.org www.newquay.co.uk www.newquayguide.co.uk www.st-piran.com www.haven.com/perransands Distance: 5¼ miles (8½km) Estimated time: 2½ hours Difficulty: Moderate Starting point: Take the bus from Perran Sands Holiday Park to St Agnes. OS Explorer map 104 Redruth & St Agnes Produced by the South West Coast Path Team with support from: The European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development: Europe Investing in rural areas This is one of the many walks that can be found at www.southwestcoastpath.com Directions In 1915/6, however, an unrepaired gap in the harbour wall led to its being demolished during a great storm, and now only the granite blocks around the cove remain of what was a busy port. 1. Take the 403 bus from the entrance of Perran Sands Holiday Park. It stops in St Agnes on Vicarage Road at the Institute. From there walk down 1.Vicarage Road, turning right onto 2.Town Hill and then left down 3.Stippy Stappy Lane to 4.Quay Road. Take the 5.footpath opposite and follow it as it climbs gently through the valley to join the South West Coast Path high above Trevaunance Cove. Turn right here, towards Perranporth, and follow the path along the top of the cliffs. From the sixteenth century until the 1920s, St Agnes ('Breanek' in Cornish) was one of Cornwall's busiest mining areas, employing up to 1000 men miners underground while their wives and children worked on the surface. Much of the World Heritage Site, the Cornwall and West Devon Mining Landscape, is in the parish. 5 The ore was shipped from St Agnes harbour, on the west side of Trevaunance Cove. 3 4 It was dropped down a chute from the ore 1 2 bins, which are still visible on the cliffs above. Imported coal was raised to the clifftop mines by means of a horse whim - a round platform where a horse would be led around a Pen a Grader winch. Blue Hills Town Golf Course 2. The path drops steeply to the road at Blue Hills. Turn left here and pick up the Coast Path again as it travels seawards, climbing gently above the stream and then turning to climb steeply to the top of the hill. This area is known as Jericho Valley, and for over a hundred years the steep roads by the Blue Hills tin works have been host to the Land's End Classic Trial, a motor race held every Easter, running from London to Land's End. Blue Hills is Cornwall's last tin stream works and still produces small quantities of tin today. The tin produced at Blue Hills is gathered along the coastline, having been mined by the sea and washed by the waves. This alluvial tin mining is a process that was exploited as long ago as 2000 BC, during the Bronze Age, and it led to links with traders from the Mediterranean as well as with communities across the English Channel. When the price of tin was high and the mines were producing large quantities, the prosperity would be celebrated with bunting and brass bands; but when the price slumped and the mines started to close, many of the miners emigrated in search of work, leading to the adage, 'Wherever there's a hole in the ground, you'll find a Cornish miner!' Mining was a dangerous occupation, and it led to strong community bonds. A Cornish miner working in South Africa in the last century told of one of his most moving memories of his early days in the Wheal Kitty mine at St Agnes. Quay Road There were many attempts to build a harbour at Trevaunance Cove, four of which, between 1632 and 1709, left the local lords of the manor deeply in debt. Another, built in 1710, was washed away in 1730. It was not until 1798 that a harbour was finally constructed which withstood the rigours of the sea. As well as the trade linked with mining, a pilchard fishing industry was established early in the nineteenth century, although it started to decline after only 30 years. Finish at Perran Sands Holiday Park The picturesque terrace of houses in Stippy Stappy Lane was built in the eighteenth century for ships' captains. The whole terrace, as well as its garden walls, is classed as a listed building. Hill Start Base mapping ©HARVEY 2012 www.harveymaps.co.uk As the miners gathered at the shaft at the end of their shift, waiting to be raised to the surface, someone began to sing. The others around him joined in, and then the song was taken up by miners waiting at stations higher up the shaft, so that the whole mine echoed with the sound of the singing. Cornish male voice choirs were as powerful as their Welsh equivalent, and both were an expression of the miners' ability to enjoy the good things in life despite its hardships. Walks on and around the The passage of these waves of sand can leave behind areas that have been eroded to the water table, leading to the development of extensive dune slacks which are seasonally flooded and low in nutrients. from Perran Sands Holiday Park The whole area is a Site of Special Scientific Interest for its wildlife, and is a candidate Special Conservation Area (it has been submitted to the European Commission, but has yet to be formally adopted). A Swanvale mouse To the north of the dunes there are well-protected humid dune slacks with interesting plant communities growing in these marshy areas and pools: scented meadowsweet and water mint, as well as greater willowherb and water horsetail. The drier slacks have short turf kept well-grazed by rabbits and ponies. Plants supported by the thin soil and of especial note here are shore dock, petalwort and early gentian. Pyramidal orchids also thrive, as do silverweed and common centuary. Elsewhere there are sedge and fern-dominated communities, and scrambled egg lichen. Sparrowhawks and peregrine falcons hunt overhead, and skylarks hover, singing their chirruping song high above. Wheatears and stonechats sing from the gorse and thorn bushes, while sanderlings and golden plovers thrive on the abundant supplies of insects.Butterflies also flourish: look out for the silver-studded blue, the small copper and the brown argus. Of especial note is the grizzled skipper, a rare butterfly found in only two colonies in Cornwall. The fifth century missionary St Piran is said to have washed up here on his millstone after he was banished from Ireland, and the walk visits the remnants of his oratory, as well as various other holy sites attached to his name. There is only a little gentle ascent and descent and the paths are mostly sandy and fairly easy underfoot. The South West Coast Path Association (www.southwestcoastpath.org.uk) exists to help everyone enjoy the coast path. Other useful information Toilets - In Perranporth The rock formation ahead, below the cliff as you approach Perranporth, is Chapel Rock. Although some of the chapel was still visible in the seventeenth century, most of it has been eroded by the sea. Refreshments- In Perranporth 5. Before reaching the Perranporth end of the beach, turn left onto the footpath and follow it to the main road at Tollgate. Other useful websites: www.visitnewquay.org 6. From here turn left onto the path back into Perran Sands. St Piran's Oratory Further information - Newquay Tourist Information Centre 01637 854020 www.newquay.co.uk www.newquayguide.co.uk www.st-piran.com www.haven.com/perransands Text and photos by Ruth Luckhurst Produced by the South West Coast Path Team with support from: The European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development: Europe Investing in rural areas Distance: 3¾ miles (6km) Estimated time: 2 hours Difficulty: Easy Starting point: Reception at Perran Sands Holiday Park This is one of the many walks that can be found at www.southwestcoastpath.com Directions 2w ww .ha 201 RV g© HA Bas em app in He built the Oratory in its present position some time later, and began to preach from here. His sermons were very popular, and at 29ft by 12ft the chapel was too small to accommodate all the congregation. Over the years the chapel was enlarged and improved, with stone walls added, and a rounded doorway decorated with three small heads. A priest's door was put in by the altar, as well as a wide ledge, and a tiny window was made to let in some light. Penhale dunes EY St Piran, Cornwall's national saint, is said to have built his first small chapel on a rocky outcrop on Perranporth Beach which still bears the name Chapel Rock. St Piran’s Church ry rve yma o rat ’s O ps. co. ran uk i StP 1. From Reception at Perran Sands follow the Natureboard Walk to Wheal Retreat. Then take the footpath northwards across the dunes and turn right on the footpath ahead. The modern cross is visible in the dunes to the right of the path ahead, and just beyond it, on the left-hand side of the path, are the remains of St Piran's Oratory. Currently a short flight of steps and a stone tablet are all that remain visible of the currently-buried Oratory, although plans are in place to excavate it in the near future. There were other structures around the Oratory, and a sizeable graveyard, as well as a small lake nearby which prevented the building from being buried in sand. However, this lake drained away in time, and the Oratory duly disappeared in windblown sand, although it kept a place in local legend. Nineteenth century archaeologist William Mitchell carried out excavations and found three skeletons under the floor, including a very large one minus its head. According to the legends, St Piran was a very large man, and after his death, at the age of 200, his head was kept in a sacred box, bound with iron and locked, and carried around the county, along with various other holy relics. In the past, occasionally human bones were found in the dunes around the Oratory, revealed by shifting sand, and when a mechanical digger was used to bury it again, to protect it following repeated problems with flooding and vandalism, about twelve cist graves were exposed. In June 2011 the volunteer-led charity, the St Piran Trust, announced that it had raised sufficient funds to begin to realise its dream of excavating the Oratory once more, thanks to some generous private donations, as well as grants from the Heritage Lottery Fund, the Cornwall Heritage Trust, Cornwall County Council and HRH the Prince of Wales and Duke of Cornwall. 2. From the Oratory, continue ahead along the path beyond it to the remains of St Piran's Church and the ancient cross beside it. Around the ninth or tenth century, after the Oratory first disappeared beneath the sand, its congregation crossed the stream and built a new church a little further inland, thinking the water would protect it from being similarly swamped. The oldest part of the church, (the old Perranzabuloe Parish Church), is thought to date back to the eleventh century and was recorded in the 1086 Domesday Book as Lanpiran (Cornish for 'St Piran's holy site'). At that time it consisted of a nave and chancel, south aisle, south transept and tower. A chancel aisle is thought to have been added in the late thirteenth or early fourteenth century, with the south nave aisle, tower and possibly porch added in the fifteenth. Wheal Retreat Start and Finish at Perran Sands Holiday Park Tollgate In the twelfth century it was a collegiate church and by the fourteenth century it had become a major centre for pilgrims travelling on the Way of St James, a major medieval pilgrimage route to the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain, where the apostle St James was said to be buried. Perranzabuloe's popularity is thought to have been partly due to St Piran's head being kept here in a sacred casket and his relics paraded. Shifting sand continued to be a problem, exacerbated by mining operations which drained the stream, and by the eighteenth century parishioners frequently had to dig out the porch to gain entry to the church. Early in the nineteenth century it was decided to build yet another church, this time inland on its present site in Perranzabuloe, and the old church was abandoned to its fate. A century later, when archaeologists came to excavate, it had become completely buried again, and something like a thousand cartloads of sand were removed from the chancel alone. Further excavations in 2005 revealed significantly older remains, including fragments of pottery from the Bronze Age, at least a thousand years before St Piran's arrival. Numerous sites of archaeological importance have been found throughout the area, showing that there were communities living and working here from Neolithic (Late Stone Age) times onwards. The early medieval cross in the dunes beside the ruined church was first mentioned in the tenth century, when it was referred to as the 'Cristel Mael'. It is thought to have marked ancient territorial boundaries, and it is one of only two three-holed crosses in Cornwall. Elsewhere around Perranporth ('Piran's cove') are St Piran's Well, to the north of Perranzabuloe, and Perran Round, at Rose a medieval 'plain an gwarry' or amphitheatre, unique to Cornwall, where miracle plays were staged. This is one of only two remaining in the county, and it is well worth a visit. 3. From the three-holed cross retrace your steps towards the path from Perran Sands, but carry on past it to the South West Coast Path, in the dunes. 4. Turn left to walk through the dunes to the path inland near the end of the beach. Alternatively, instead of walking through the dunes, carry on down to the beach from the three-holed cross and turn left to walk along the sand to the path at 5. Penhale Dunes are Britain's highest sand dunes, 90m above sea level, and at 650 hectares, Cornwall's largest dune system. They are thought to have been formed over 5000 years ago, when changing sea levels changed caused sand to build up on a rocky plateau. The dunes here are a what is known as a 'hindshore system': a dune system which develops above a beach with a good supply of sediment, exposed to strong onshore winds strong enough to drive large quantities of sand onto the land in huge arcs or ridges until they become stabilised, often some distance from the sea. At Penhale these winds are strong enough to blow sand onto the higher ground behind the dune system, leading to unusual communities of plants and insects. The author Winston Graham lived in Perranporth for many years. His Poldark novels are based on the area. Walks on and around the In past times the weather and sea claimed many vessels. The remains of the clipper ship La Seine can still be seen at low spring tides. Alma House was built using timbers from the wreck of that name and Hanover Close was named after another local wreck. When the sailing ship Voorspoed was wrecked on the beach the captain commented: - "I have been wrecked in different parts of the world, even the Fiji islands, but never amongst savages such as those of Perranporth". from Perran Sands Holiday Park Perranporth Take a soothing stroll through the dunes, spot the abundant wildlife, cross the golden sands and explore the bustling village of Perranporth. There are gentle ascents and descents and the paths are mostly sandy and fairly easy underfoot. 4. Having explored and enjoyed the village of Perrnaporth retrace your steps on the South West Coast Path. The path turns inland before Cotty's Point. 5. Turn right onto the footpath and follow it through Perranporth golf course to the main road at Tollgate. The South West Coast Path Association (www.southwestcoastpath.org.uk) exists to help everyone enjoy the coast path. 6. When you reach Tollgate Road you will see the entrance to Perran Sands Holiday Park. Turn left onto the path back into Perran Sands. Photos and text by Ruth Luckhurst & SWCP team Other useful information Toilets - In Perranporth Refreshments- In Perranporth Further information - Newquay Tourist Information Centre 01637 854020 Other useful websites: www.visitnewquay.org www.newquay.co.uk www.newquayguide.co.uk www.st-piran.com Distance: 3¼ miles (5¼km) www.haven.com/perransands Estimated time: 2 hours (not including browsing time in Perranporth!) Difficulty: Easy Starting point: Reception at Perran Sands Holiday Park OS Explorer map 104 Redruth & St Agnes Produced by the South West Coast Path Team with support from: The European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development: Europe Investing in rural areas This is one of the many walks that can be found at www.southwestcoastpath.com Directions The rock formation ahead, below the cliff as you approach Perranporth, is Chapel Rock. Although some of the chapel was still visible in the seventeenth century, most of it has been eroded by the sea. Base mapping ©HARVEY 2012 www.harveymaps.co.uk 1. From the Reception in Perran Sands Holiday Park take the path towards the beach, passing the car park on your left. Head through Chy-An-Mor (Cornish for House of the Sea) until you meet up with the South West Coast Path. 2. Turn left to walk through the dunes to the path inland near the end of the beach. Alternatively, instead of walking through the dunes, carry on down to the beach and turn left to walk along the sand. 1 Start and Finish at Perran Sands Holiday Park Penhale Dunes are Britain's highest sand dunes, 90m above sea level, and at 650 hectares, Cornwall's largest dune system. They are thought to have been formed over 5000 years ago, when changing sea levels changed caused sand to build up on a rocky plateau. As well as tin, the mines at Cligga Head produced tungsten, used in World War II for armour-plating and armour-piercing shells. The conical mesh caps over the mine workings here are known as 'bat castles'. They are designed to prevent people from falling into the old shafts while still allowing access to the colonies of bats living here, including the rare greater horseshoe bat. The dunes here are a what is known as a 'hindshore system': a dune system which develops above a beach with a good supply of sediment, exposed to strong onshore winds strong enough to drive large quantities of sand onto the land in huge arcs or ridges until they become stabilised, often some distance from the sea. At Penhale these winds are strong enough to blow sand onto the higher ground behind the dune system, leading to unusual communities of plants and insects. The passage of these waves of sand can leave behind areas that have been eroded to the water table, leading to the development of extensive dune slacks which are seasonally flooded and low in nutrients. The whole area is a Site of Special Scientific Interest for its wildlife, and is a candidate Special Conservation Area (it has been submitted to the European Commission, but has yet to be formally adopted). To the north of the dunes there are wellprotected humid dune slacks with interesting plant communities growing in In front of you can be seen the coastline leading to Cligga Head. To the right of Chapel rock is Droskyn Point. The Millennium sundial is located on the point of the Droskyn mine overlooking Perran Bay. The dial shows 'Cornish times' which are 20 minutes behind GMT. Then Shag Rock can be seen and behind it before the coastline turns southwards Cligga Head. these marshy areas and pools: scented meadowsweet and water mint, as well as greater willowherb and water horsetail. The drier slacks have short turf kept well-grazed by rabbits and ponies. Plants supported by the thin soil and of especial note here are shore dock, petalwort and early gentian. Pyramidal orchids also thrive, as do silverweed and common centuary. Elsewhere there are sedge and fern-dominated communities, and scrambled egg lichen. Sparrowhawks and peregrine falcons hunt overhead, and skylarks hover, singing their chirruping song high above. Wheatears and stonechats sing from the gorse and thorn bushes, while sanderlings and golden plovers thrive on the abundant supplies of insects. Butterflies also flourish: look out for the silver-studded blue, the small copper and the brown argus. Of especial note is the grizzled skipper, a rare butterfly found in only two colonies in Cornwall. 3. Keeping to the left of Chapel Rock, cross the beach. Don't get your feet too wet in the river. Explore the village of Perranporth. Perranporth's name is Cornish for Saint Piran's cove (Saint Piran is one of the patron saints of Cornwall). It is believed that Saint Piran founded a church at Perranzabuloe near Perranporth in the seventh century. Buried under sand for many centuries, it was unearthed early in the twentieth century, but again left to the mercy of the sands in the 1970s. Perran Beach, extends northwest from the town for nearly 2 miles to Ligger Point. There are lifeguard beach patrols from May to September and the beach is generally safe for bathing although there are dangerous rip currents around Chapel Rock at ebb tides.