Crantock to Perran Sands

Transcription

Crantock to Perran Sands
Walks on and around the
4. Reaching the road in Holywell, turn right to pick
up the South West Coast Path heading to the right
again. Follow it around Penhale Point and on past
the military camp, the masts and the mine
workings, to Hoblyn's Cove. Carry on around
Ligger Point and on to the dunes at Penhale
Sands.
A striking feature of this part of coastline is the
extent of the mine workings on and around the
cliffs. The earliest records of Penhale Mine show it
as producing some 41 tons of lead ore in 1777, but
undoubtedly the area's mineral resources were
exploited for many centuries before this. Ligger
House, on Penhale Point, is the former count
house for the mine. Auctions were conducted in the
building, and miners would bid for underground
leases (or pitches).
5. The path passes a disused quarry with an old
cave nearby and then carries on along the edge of
the dunes. It is important to take heed of the
notices along here requesting that you stay on the
Coast Path. There is no right of way in the dunes
behind, which are used by the MoD for firing
practice, and the Coast Path travels along a
permissive path to the natural valley running
through the dunes about a mile from the quarry at
6.
6. Bear left with the Coast Path to head inland
along the edge of the MoD land until you come to
the footpath back to Perran Sands.
Text and photos by Ruth Luckhurst
from Perran Sands Holiday Park
A Swanvale mouse
Crantock to Perran Sands
Take the bus to Crantock and walk back around the
rocky coastline, above golden beaches and through
dunes that are a haven for wildlife. Listen out for the
mythical Gannel crake, and look out for real-life seals
and dolphins. Reverse the directions to walk to
Crantock and catch the bus back (remember to check
the time of the last bus back!)
The South West Coast Path Association
(www.southwestcoastpath.org.uk)
exists to help everyone enjoy the coast path.
Other useful information
Transport information - The Western Greyhound Bus 587
travels frequently between Newquay and Truro, stopping at
Winstowe Terrace Hail & Ride in Crantock, as well as at
Perran Sands. For details visit www.travelinesw.com or
phone 0871 200 22 33
Toilets -
In Crantock and Holywell
Refreshments -
In Crantock and Holywell
Further information -
Newquay Tourist Information
Centre - 01637 854020
Other useful websites: www.visitnewquay.org
www.newquay.co.uk
www.newquayguide.co.uk
www.haven.com/perransands
Produced by the South West Coast Path Team with support from:
Distance:
7¼ miles (11¾km)
Estimated time:
3¼ hours
Difficulty:
Strenuous
Starting point:
Take the 587 bus towards
Newquay from Perran
Sands entrance to Crantock
OS Explorer map
104 Redruth & St Agnes
This is one of the many walks that can be found at
The European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development:
Europe Investing in rural areas
www.southwestcoastpath.com
Directions
1. Take the 587 bus towards Newquay from the bus stop at Perran Sands
entrance and get off at Crantock. Head down Halwyn Hill to the square
and turn left down Green Lane to take the footpath on your left,
forking left again to walk to the South West Coast Path, above
Crantock Beach.
2. Reaching the South West Coast Path, turn left and follow
it around Pentire Point West and on to Porth Joke ('Polly
Joke' as it is known to the locals).
'Porth Joke' comes from the Cornish 'Porth Lojowek', meaning
'cove rich in plants'. Traditional conservation techniques used here
have encouraged an astonishing 154 species of wildflower to flourish. In
a ne
wyn
Hal
Start
3. Carry on along the Coast
Path as it continues around
Kelsey Head and drops into
the dunes behind Holywell
Beach to come out by the
first houses in Holywell.
Kelsey Head is a Site of
Special Scientific Interest with
a wide range of habitats, the most
extensive being the sand dune system
and the maritime grassland which has grown over
wind-blown sand around the fringes of the headlands and
on Cubert Common. Other important wildlife areas are the
wet meadows alongside the stream as you walk to Porth
Joke and the brackish marsh at Holywell Bay.
rveymaps.co.uk
RVEY 2012 www.ha
Base mapping ©HA
Listen out for the Gannel crake, a mythical bird whose
desolate howl has been heard all around Crantock Beach.
The name is attributed to two brothers who were once
working beneath West Pentire, gathering seaweed to use
as fertiliser. One of the brothers described the sound,
which frightened their horses into galloping away, as 'like a
thousand voices in pent-up misery with one long-drawn
wail dying away into the distance.’
nL
Hi l l
Gre
e
Crantock is said to be the site of the Lost City of Langarrow,
buried by a sandstorm after the hedonistic lifestyle of its
inhabitants brought the wrath of God upon their heads. It is
named after the sixth century Celtic saint, Carantoc, who
supposedly arrived by sea on an altar and built an oratory
here. This blossomed into a College of Priests, a major
religious centre until it was dismantled under Henry VIII's
Dissolution of Monasteries in the sixteenth century. The
'Round Orchard' in the centre of the village is thought to
be the site of St Carantoc's sixth century chapel. There
are also two medieval holy wells in the village.
On the far side of Crantock Beach is the mouth of the
River Gannel. In the fifteenth century the mouth of the
River Gannel was a thriving port, and until as late as the
end of the nineteenth century it was used extensively by
shipping. Vessels brought their cargoes of coal, fertiliser,
limestone and earthenware into Fern Pit on the
Newquay bank of the river. This was then transferred to
shallow-draught barges to be carried on the flood tide up
to Trevemper, an important commercial centre three miles
upstream.
summer the headland is ablaze with
the vivid heads of poppies and
corn marigolds, also providing
seeds for birds like buntings,
partridge and finches.
River Ga
nnel
A number of rare plants grow around here, including sea
holly in the sand dunes and Babington's leek in the area of
marshland. The particularly unusual and beautiful silverstudded blue butterfly has also been seen at Kelsey Head,
and the stripe-winged grasshopper spotted here is one of
only three sightings in Devon and Cornwall in recent years.
The headland and the offshore islands are also noteworthy
for the colonies of breeding seabirds including guillemots,
shags and razorbills.
The small island just offshore as you round the headland
is known as The Chick. Look out for grey seals here,
especially at low tide. Sometimes dolphins can be seen
too.
Finish at
Perran Sands
Holiday Park
Evidence of human activity has been found around
Kelsey Head dating back to Mesolithic (Middle Stone
Age) times, around 8000-4000 BC. There are also tumuli,
or burial barrows, dating from the Bronze Age, around
3000 BC, and archaeologists have identified two Iron Age
cliff castles here.
Walks on and around the
A striking feature of this part of coastline is the extent of the
mine workings on and around the cliffs. The earliest
records of Penhale Mine show it as producing some 41
tons of lead ore in 1777, but undoubtedly the area's
mineral resources were exploited for many centuries before
this. Ligger House, on Penhale Point, is the former count
house for the mine. Auctions were conducted in the
building, and miners would bid for underground leases (or
pitches).
9. The path passes a disused quarry with an old cave
nearby and then carries on along the edge of the dunes. It
is important to take heed of the notices along here
requesting that you stay on the Coast Path. There is no
right of way in the dunes behind, which are used by the
MoD for firing practice, and the Coast Path travels along a
permissive path to the natural valley running through the
dunes about a mile from the quarry.
10. Bear left with the Coast Path to head inland along the
edge of the MoD territory until you come to the footpath
back to Perran Sands.
from Perran Sands Holiday Park
A Swanvale mouse
Penhale and Holywell
A long but enchanting walk through an area rich in
wildlife and history. Lush streamside vegetation borders
grassland dotted with wildflowers, and there is a
delightful nature reserve in a tiny copse, as well as an
abundance of species in Penhale Dunes. Holywell
boasts two holy wells, as well as a sandy beach, and the
rock features and old mine workings at Penhale are
guaranteed to enthrall.
The South West Coast Path Association
(www.southwestcoastpath.org.uk) exists to
help everyone enjoy the coast path.
Text and photos by Ruth Luckhurst
Other useful information
Toilets -
In Holywell
Refreshments-
In Holywell
Further information -
Newquay Tourist Information
Centre - 01637 854020
Other useful websites: www.visitnewquay.org
www.newquay.co.uk
www.newquayguide.co.uk
www.haven.com/perransands
Distance:
7¾ miles (12½km)
Estimated time:
3½ hours
Difficulty:
Strenuous
Starting point:
Reception at
Perran Sands Holiday Park
Produced by the South West Coast Path Team with support from:
OS Explorer map
104 Redruth & St Agnes
This is one of the many walks that can be found at
The European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development:
Europe Investing in rural areas
www.southwestcoastpath.com
Directions
1. From Reception in Perran Sands Holiday Park take
the footpath past Wheal Retreat and Piran point,
heading northwards into the dunes, towards St Piran's
Oratory, which is marked with an interpretation board.
The fifth century Irish missionary St Piran arrived here on
a millstone, having been thrown into the sea with it tied
around his neck. He built his Oratory here and preached
to crowds of pilgrims who flocked to hear him (see the St
Piran's Oratory Walk).
Penhale
Point
between the fifth and eighth centuries. This is further evidence of the strong
trade links known to have existed between Cornwall and Mediterranean
lands at that time.
8
Cubert
Well
However, there is evidence of settlement in the area from much
earlier. Traces of human activity have been found around
Kelsey Head dating back to Mesolithic (Middle Stone Age)
times, around 8000-4000 BC.
Base mapping
© HARVEY 2012
www.harveymaps.co.uk
Hoblyn’s Cove
2. From the Oratory take the path heading to your right,
eastwards, and follow it to the ruins of St Piran's Church,
half-buried in the sand a little way to the left of the modern
cross. En route you will pass the inland route of the South West
Coast Path on your right.
7. Bear left and then turn left onto the path leading towards
the bottom hedge and turning right onto the footpath, to follow
it along the valley to Holywell.
There are two wells in Holywell, and it is not known
which gave the village its name.
9
This is the site of the church that was built sometime in the ninth
century, after the Oratory was overwhelmed by wind-blown sand. The
cross in the dunes beside it is believed to be the oldest of Cornwall's
many ancient crosses, and was recorded in AD 960, by which time it
was already long-established.
St Piran’s St Piran’s
Oratory Church
3. From the ruins of St. Piran’s church retrace your steps to the inland
coast path and turn left onto it. Follow it ahead to Tollgate Road.
4. Turn left on the road and follow it past Higher Mount Farm and
gently downhill through Mount, to where it takes a sharp turn to the
right.
10
5. Turn left at the bend, onto the footpath beside the MoD drive. Follow
the path as it bears gently right to lead into the trees beyond about half a
mile ahead.
6. Reaching the path which crosses yours as you pull uphill out of the trees,
turn left and follow this footpath along the bottom of the hill to Ellenglaze,
ahead.
Wheal
Retreat
Start and Finish
at Perran Sands
Holiday Park
In 1945, archaeologists discovered lines of walls previously covered by wind-blown
sand, about 280m west of Ellenglaze Manor. When the site was later excavated,
fragments of pottery were found in the walls confirmed that and other similar walls
nearby were from an early medieval settlement associated with Ellenglaze Manor.
The original Manor dates from some time before the 1086 Domesday Book, although
the present house is thought to have been built in the eighteenth century around a
seventeenth-century core.
During another dig, a quantity of brick red ware was found nearby and subsequently
identified as Phoenician red slip ware from western Turkey, dating from sometime
Mount
Higher
Mount Farm
Holywell Cave (off the map to the north!) can be seen
at low tide on Holywell Beach beneath the southern
cliffs of Kelsey Head. Although it seems to be no more
than a slit from the beach, on entering the cave it is
possible to make out some slimy steps leading up a
series of pools to a hole in the roof of the cave.
Tinted red and blue, with the edges of the pools
encrusted with calcareous deposits formed by water
rich in minerals dripping from above, the cave was
seized upon by Victorian Romantics as the holy well
after which the bay was named. However, it is likely
that it is an entirely natural feature, and the real well of
Holywell is St Cubert's, in the Trevornick Valley and on
land which is now part of the Holywell Bay Fun Park.
Thought to be fourteenth century, Cubert Well is reached via
a
high Gothic arch set into an ivy-clad perimeter wall. Inside,
ad
a
series
of stepping stones leads across marshland to a
Ro
te
granite well house, built into a rocky and overgrown bank. Two
ga
l
l
To
sides of the well house are lined with stone seats and there
are niches cut into the back well, probably for candles or
statues. The well was discovered in a ruined state in 1916 and
has been restored by the Newquay Old Cornwall Society.
Cornish crime writer W. J. Burley, who was born in Falmouth, lived in Holywell until his
death in 2002. Best known for his detective novels featuring Charles Wycliffe, televised in
the mid 1990s, Burley won a scholarship to study zoology at Oxford after the Second World
War and was Head of Biology at Newquay Grammar School until he retired in 1974, by
which time he was well established as a novelist.
8. Reaching the road in Holywell, turn left to pick up the South West Coast Path heading to
the right. Follow it around Penhale Point and on past the military camp, the masts and the
mine workings, to Hoblyn's Cove. Carry on around Ligger Point and on to the dunes at
Penhale Sands.
Walks on and around the
3. Ignoring the path to the right, continue ahead on the
Coast Path above rocky coves dotted with tiny islets,
passing Green Island and heading to the seaward side of
an old airfield.
from Perran Sands Holiday Park
This was a WWII airfield and the wartime shelters can be
seen above the cliffs. The airfield is still in use by light
aircraft, including gliders, whose pilots' clubhouse is in the
buildings of the Old British and Colonial Explosives factory,
at Cligga Head.
A Swanvale mouse
4. Passing the headland at Pen a Grader, carry on above
the spectacular red cliffs above Hanover Cove.
Many of the cliffs along this part of the coastline are
dramatically stained by the minerals in the rock.
Hanover Cove is named after the Falmouth packet ship
which was wrecked here in 1763, driven onshore with a
cargo of gold coins worth £60,000.
5. Ignoring the network of paths heading inland, continue
ahead as the Coast Path travels around the old mine
workings at Cligga Head.
The South West Coast Path Association
(www.southwestcoastpath.org.uk) exists to
help everyone enjoy the coast path.
As well as tin, the mines at Cligga Head produced
tungsten, used in World War II for armour-plating and
armour-piercing shells.
Other useful information
The conical mesh caps over the mine workings here are
known as 'bat castles'. They are designed to prevent
people from falling into the old shafts while still allowing
access to the colonies of bats living here, including the rare
greater horseshoe bat.
Transport information -The First Bus 985 travels to
Threemilestone, Truro College, stopping at the Church on
Churchtown in St Agnes. The Western Greyhound 547 to St
Ives and the Travel Cornwall 403 to Truro both stop at
Vicarage Road in St Agnes. For details visit
www.travelinesw.com or phone 0871 200 22 33
6. After Cligga Head the path begins to descend, past
Shag Rock and Droskyn Point, coming out on Cliff Road in
Perranporth.
From here either carry on along the beach to pick up the
footpath through the dunes back to Perran Sands or turn
right to go into Perranporth, and return to Perran Sands
from there.
Text and photos by Ruth Luckhurst
St Agnes to Perran Sands
Take the bus to St Agnes and walk back along the top of
high cliffs, through the silent remnants of what was once
one of Cornwall's busiest mining areas. In summer this
is a riot of colour, with blazing gorse bushes and banks
of vivid heather, wildflowers dotted between them and
the mineral-stained cliffs startlingly red against the blue
sea. There are some stretches of very steep ascent and
descent, and in places the stony path passes close to
high cliffs.
Toilets - In Perranporth, Droskyn and Trevaunance Cove
Refreshments- In Perranporth and St Agnes
Further information - Newquay Tourist Information Centre
01637 854020
Other useful websites:
www.visitnewquay.org
www.newquay.co.uk
www.newquayguide.co.uk
www.st-piran.com
www.haven.com/perransands
Distance:
5¼ miles (8½km)
Estimated time:
2½ hours
Difficulty:
Moderate
Starting point:
Take the bus from
Perran Sands Holiday Park
to St Agnes.
OS Explorer map
104 Redruth & St Agnes
Produced by the South West Coast Path Team with support from:
The European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development:
Europe Investing in rural areas
This is one of the many walks that can be found at
www.southwestcoastpath.com
Directions
In 1915/6, however, an unrepaired gap in
the harbour wall led to its being
demolished during a great storm, and
now only the granite blocks around the
cove remain of what was a busy port.
1. Take the 403 bus from the entrance of Perran Sands Holiday Park. It stops in St
Agnes on Vicarage Road at the Institute. From there walk down 1.Vicarage Road,
turning right onto 2.Town Hill and then left down 3.Stippy Stappy Lane to 4.Quay Road.
Take the 5.footpath opposite and follow it as it climbs gently through the valley to join
the South West Coast Path high above Trevaunance Cove. Turn right here, towards
Perranporth, and follow the path along the top of the cliffs.
From the sixteenth century until the
1920s, St Agnes ('Breanek' in Cornish)
was one of Cornwall's busiest mining
areas, employing up to 1000 men
miners underground while their wives
and children worked on the surface.
Much of the World Heritage Site, the
Cornwall and West Devon Mining
Landscape, is in the parish.
5
The ore was shipped from St
Agnes harbour, on the west
side of Trevaunance Cove.
3 4
It was dropped down a
chute from the ore
1 2
bins, which are
still visible on
the cliffs
above.
Imported coal was raised to the clifftop mines by
means of a horse whim - a round platform
where a horse would be led around a
Pen a Grader
winch.
Blue Hills
Town
Golf Course
2. The path drops steeply to the road at
Blue Hills. Turn left here and pick up the
Coast Path again as it travels seawards,
climbing gently above the stream and then
turning to climb steeply to the top of the
hill.
This area is known as Jericho Valley, and
for over a hundred years the steep roads
by the Blue Hills tin works have been host
to the Land's End Classic Trial, a motor race
held every Easter, running from London to
Land's End.
Blue Hills is Cornwall's last tin stream works
and still produces small quantities of tin today.
The tin produced at Blue Hills is gathered along the
coastline, having been mined by the sea and washed
by the waves. This alluvial tin mining is a process that
was exploited as long ago as 2000 BC, during the Bronze
Age, and it led to links with traders from the Mediterranean
as well as with communities across the English Channel.
When the price of tin was high and the mines were producing
large quantities, the prosperity would be celebrated with bunting and
brass bands; but when the price slumped and the mines started to
close, many of the miners emigrated in search of work, leading to the
adage, 'Wherever there's a hole in the ground, you'll find a Cornish miner!'
Mining was a dangerous occupation, and it led to strong community bonds. A
Cornish miner working in South Africa in the last century told of one of his most
moving memories of his early days in the Wheal Kitty mine at St Agnes.
Quay Road
There were many attempts to
build a harbour at
Trevaunance Cove, four of
which, between 1632 and
1709, left the local lords of
the manor deeply in debt.
Another, built in 1710, was
washed away in 1730. It was
not until 1798 that a harbour
was finally constructed which
withstood the rigours of the
sea. As well as the trade
linked with mining, a pilchard
fishing industry was
established early in the
nineteenth century, although it
started to decline after only 30
years.
Finish at
Perran Sands
Holiday Park
The picturesque terrace of houses in
Stippy Stappy Lane was built in the
eighteenth century for ships' captains.
The whole terrace, as well as its garden
walls, is classed as a listed building.
Hill
Start
Base mapping ©HARVEY 2012 www.harveymaps.co.uk
As the miners gathered at the shaft at the end of their shift, waiting to be raised to the
surface, someone began to sing. The others around him joined in, and then the song was
taken up by miners waiting at stations higher up the shaft, so that the whole mine echoed
with the sound of the singing. Cornish male voice choirs were as powerful as their Welsh
equivalent, and both were an expression of the miners' ability to enjoy the good things in life
despite its hardships.
Walks on and around the
The passage of these waves of sand can leave behind areas that
have been eroded to the water table, leading to the development
of extensive dune slacks which are seasonally flooded and low in
nutrients.
from Perran Sands Holiday Park
The whole area is a Site of Special Scientific Interest for its
wildlife, and is a candidate Special Conservation Area (it has
been submitted to the European Commission, but has yet to be
formally adopted).
A Swanvale mouse
To the north of the dunes there are well-protected humid dune
slacks with interesting plant communities growing in these
marshy areas and pools: scented meadowsweet and water
mint, as well as greater willowherb and water horsetail.
The drier slacks have short turf kept well-grazed by rabbits
and ponies. Plants supported by the thin soil and of especial
note here are shore dock, petalwort and early gentian.
Pyramidal orchids also thrive, as do silverweed and common
centuary. Elsewhere there are sedge and fern-dominated
communities, and scrambled egg lichen.
Sparrowhawks and peregrine falcons hunt overhead, and
skylarks hover, singing their chirruping song high above.
Wheatears and stonechats sing from the gorse and thorn
bushes, while sanderlings and golden plovers thrive on the
abundant supplies of insects.Butterflies also flourish: look out
for the silver-studded blue, the small copper and the brown
argus. Of especial note is the grizzled skipper, a rare butterfly
found in only two colonies in Cornwall.
The fifth century missionary St Piran is said to have
washed up here on his millstone after he was banished
from Ireland, and the walk visits the remnants of his
oratory, as well as various other holy sites attached to
his name. There is only a little gentle ascent and descent
and the paths are mostly sandy and fairly easy
underfoot.
The South West Coast Path Association
(www.southwestcoastpath.org.uk) exists to
help everyone enjoy the coast path.
Other useful information
Toilets -
In Perranporth
The rock formation ahead, below the cliff as you approach
Perranporth, is Chapel Rock. Although some of the chapel was
still visible in the seventeenth century, most of it has been
eroded by the sea.
Refreshments- In Perranporth
5. Before reaching the Perranporth end of the beach, turn
left onto the footpath and follow it to the main road at
Tollgate.
Other useful websites: www.visitnewquay.org
6. From here turn left onto the path back into Perran
Sands.
St Piran's Oratory
Further information - Newquay Tourist Information Centre
01637 854020
www.newquay.co.uk
www.newquayguide.co.uk
www.st-piran.com
www.haven.com/perransands
Text and photos by Ruth Luckhurst
Produced by the South West Coast Path Team with support from:
The European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development:
Europe Investing in rural areas
Distance:
3¾ miles (6km)
Estimated time:
2 hours
Difficulty:
Easy
Starting point:
Reception at Perran Sands
Holiday Park
This is one of the many walks that can be found at
www.southwestcoastpath.com
Directions
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He built the Oratory in its present position some time later, and began to
preach from here. His sermons were very popular, and at 29ft by 12ft
the chapel was too small to accommodate all the congregation. Over
the years the chapel was enlarged and improved, with stone walls
added, and a rounded doorway decorated with three small heads. A
priest's door was put in by the altar, as well as a wide ledge, and a
tiny window was made to let in some light.
Penhale
dunes
EY
St Piran, Cornwall's national saint, is said to have built his first small chapel
on a rocky outcrop on Perranporth Beach which still bears the name
Chapel Rock.
St Piran’s
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1. From Reception at Perran Sands follow the Natureboard Walk to Wheal Retreat.
Then take the footpath northwards across the dunes and turn right on the footpath
ahead. The modern cross is visible in the dunes to the right of the path ahead,
and just beyond it, on the left-hand side of the path, are the remains of St Piran's
Oratory. Currently a short flight of steps and a stone tablet are all that remain
visible of the currently-buried Oratory, although plans are in place to excavate
it in the near future.
There were other structures around the Oratory, and a sizeable
graveyard, as well as a small lake nearby which prevented the
building from being buried in sand. However, this lake drained
away in time, and the Oratory duly disappeared in windblown sand, although it kept a place in local legend.
Nineteenth century archaeologist William Mitchell carried
out excavations and found three skeletons under the
floor, including a very large one minus its head. According
to the legends, St Piran was a very large man, and after
his death, at the age of 200, his head was kept in a sacred
box, bound with iron and locked, and carried around the
county, along with various other holy relics.
In the past, occasionally human bones were found in the dunes
around the Oratory, revealed by shifting sand, and when a
mechanical digger was used to bury it again, to protect it following
repeated problems with flooding and vandalism, about twelve cist graves were
exposed.
In June 2011 the volunteer-led charity, the St Piran Trust, announced that it had raised
sufficient funds to begin to realise its dream of excavating the Oratory once more, thanks to
some generous private donations, as well as grants from the Heritage Lottery Fund, the
Cornwall Heritage Trust, Cornwall County Council and HRH the Prince of Wales and Duke of
Cornwall.
2. From the Oratory, continue ahead along the path beyond it to the remains of St Piran's
Church and the ancient cross beside it.
Around the ninth or tenth century, after the Oratory first disappeared beneath the sand, its
congregation crossed the stream and built a new church a little further inland, thinking the
water would protect it from being similarly swamped.
The oldest part of the church, (the old Perranzabuloe Parish Church), is thought to date back to
the eleventh century and was recorded in the 1086 Domesday Book as Lanpiran (Cornish for
'St Piran's holy site'). At that time it consisted of a nave and chancel, south aisle, south transept
and tower. A chancel aisle is thought to have been added in the late thirteenth or early
fourteenth century, with the south nave aisle, tower and possibly porch added in the fifteenth.
Wheal
Retreat
Start and
Finish at
Perran Sands
Holiday Park
Tollgate
In the twelfth century it was a collegiate church and by
the fourteenth century it had become a major centre for
pilgrims travelling on the Way of St James, a major
medieval pilgrimage route to the cathedral of Santiago
de Compostela in northwestern Spain, where the apostle
St James was said to be buried. Perranzabuloe's
popularity is thought to have been partly due to St Piran's
head being kept here in a sacred casket and his relics
paraded.
Shifting sand continued to be a problem, exacerbated by
mining operations which drained the stream, and by the
eighteenth century parishioners frequently had to dig out the
porch to gain entry to the church. Early in the nineteenth century
it was decided to build yet another church, this time inland on its
present site in Perranzabuloe, and the old church was
abandoned to its fate.
A century later, when archaeologists came to excavate, it had
become completely buried again, and something like a thousand
cartloads of sand were removed from the chancel alone. Further
excavations in 2005 revealed significantly older remains,
including fragments of pottery from the Bronze Age, at least a
thousand years before St Piran's arrival. Numerous sites of
archaeological importance have been found throughout the
area, showing that there were communities living and working
here from Neolithic (Late Stone Age) times onwards.
The early medieval cross in the dunes beside the ruined church
was first mentioned in the tenth century, when it was referred to as
the 'Cristel Mael'. It is thought to have marked ancient territorial
boundaries, and it is one of only two three-holed crosses in Cornwall.
Elsewhere around Perranporth ('Piran's cove') are St Piran's Well, to the
north of Perranzabuloe, and Perran Round, at Rose a medieval 'plain an
gwarry' or amphitheatre, unique to Cornwall, where miracle plays were staged. This is one
of only two remaining in the county, and it is well worth a visit.
3. From the three-holed cross retrace your steps towards the path from Perran Sands, but carry
on past it to the South West Coast Path, in the dunes.
4. Turn left to walk through the dunes to the path inland near the end of the beach. Alternatively,
instead of walking through the dunes, carry on down to the beach from the three-holed cross and
turn left to walk along the sand to the path at 5.
Penhale Dunes are Britain's highest sand dunes, 90m above sea level, and at 650 hectares,
Cornwall's largest dune system. They are thought to have been formed over 5000 years ago,
when changing sea levels changed caused sand to build up on a rocky plateau.
The dunes here are a what is known as a 'hindshore system': a dune system which develops
above a beach with a good supply of sediment, exposed to strong onshore winds strong enough
to drive large quantities of sand onto the land in huge arcs or ridges until they become stabilised,
often some distance from the sea. At Penhale these winds are strong enough to blow sand onto
the higher ground behind the dune system, leading to unusual communities of plants and
insects.
The author Winston Graham lived in Perranporth
for many years. His Poldark novels are based on
the area.
Walks on and around the
In past times the weather and sea claimed many
vessels. The remains of the clipper ship La Seine
can still be seen at low spring tides. Alma House
was built using timbers from the wreck of that
name and Hanover Close was named after
another local wreck. When the sailing ship
Voorspoed was wrecked on the beach the captain
commented: - "I have been wrecked in different
parts of the world, even the Fiji islands, but never
amongst savages such as those of Perranporth".
from Perran Sands Holiday Park
Perranporth
Take a soothing stroll through the dunes, spot
the abundant wildlife, cross the golden sands
and explore the bustling village of Perranporth.
There are gentle ascents and descents and
the paths are mostly sandy and fairly easy
underfoot.
4. Having explored and enjoyed the village of
Perrnaporth retrace your steps on the South West
Coast Path. The path turns inland before Cotty's
Point.
5. Turn right onto the footpath and follow it through
Perranporth golf course to the main road at
Tollgate.
The South West Coast Path Association
(www.southwestcoastpath.org.uk)
exists to help everyone enjoy the coast path.
6. When you reach Tollgate Road you will see the
entrance to Perran Sands Holiday Park. Turn left
onto the path back into Perran Sands.
Photos and text by Ruth Luckhurst & SWCP team
Other useful information
Toilets -
In Perranporth
Refreshments- In Perranporth
Further information - Newquay Tourist Information Centre
01637 854020
Other useful websites: www.visitnewquay.org
www.newquay.co.uk
www.newquayguide.co.uk
www.st-piran.com
Distance:
3¼ miles (5¼km)
www.haven.com/perransands
Estimated time:
2 hours (not including
browsing time in
Perranporth!)
Difficulty:
Easy
Starting point:
Reception at Perran Sands
Holiday Park
OS Explorer map
104 Redruth & St Agnes
Produced by the South West Coast Path Team with support from:
The European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development:
Europe Investing in rural areas
This is one of the many walks that can be found at
www.southwestcoastpath.com
Directions
The rock formation ahead, below the cliff
as you approach Perranporth, is Chapel
Rock. Although some of the chapel was
still visible in the seventeenth century,
most of it has been eroded by the sea.
Base mapping ©HARVEY 2012 www.harveymaps.co.uk
1. From the Reception in Perran Sands
Holiday Park take the path towards the
beach, passing the car park on your left.
Head through Chy-An-Mor (Cornish for
House of the Sea) until you meet up with
the South West Coast Path.
2. Turn left to walk through the dunes to the
path inland near the end of the beach.
Alternatively, instead of walking through the
dunes, carry on down to the beach and turn
left to walk along the sand.
1
Start and Finish at
Perran Sands
Holiday Park
Penhale Dunes are Britain's highest sand
dunes, 90m above sea level, and at 650
hectares, Cornwall's largest dune system.
They are thought to have been formed over
5000 years ago, when changing sea levels
changed caused sand to build up on a
rocky plateau.
As well as tin, the mines at Cligga Head
produced tungsten, used in World War II
for armour-plating and armour-piercing
shells. The conical mesh caps over the
mine workings here are known as 'bat
castles'. They are designed to prevent
people from falling into the old shafts
while still allowing access to the colonies
of bats living here, including the rare
greater horseshoe bat.
The dunes here are a what is known as a
'hindshore system': a dune system which
develops above a beach with a good
supply of sediment, exposed to strong
onshore winds strong enough to drive large
quantities of sand onto the land in huge
arcs or ridges until they become stabilised,
often some distance from the sea.
At Penhale these winds are strong enough
to blow sand onto the higher ground behind
the dune system, leading to unusual
communities of plants and insects.
The passage of these waves of sand can
leave behind areas that have been eroded
to the water table, leading to the
development of extensive dune slacks
which are seasonally flooded and low in
nutrients. The whole area is a Site of
Special Scientific Interest for its wildlife,
and is a candidate Special Conservation
Area (it has been submitted to the
European Commission, but has yet to be
formally adopted).
To the north of the dunes there are wellprotected humid dune slacks with
interesting plant communities growing in
In front of you can be seen the coastline
leading to Cligga Head. To the right of
Chapel rock is Droskyn Point. The
Millennium sundial is located on the point
of the Droskyn mine overlooking Perran
Bay. The dial shows 'Cornish times' which
are 20 minutes behind GMT. Then Shag
Rock can be seen and behind it before
the coastline turns southwards Cligga
Head.
these marshy areas and pools: scented meadowsweet and
water mint, as well as greater willowherb and water
horsetail.
The drier slacks have short turf kept well-grazed by rabbits
and ponies. Plants supported by the thin soil and of
especial note here are shore dock, petalwort and early
gentian. Pyramidal orchids also thrive, as do silverweed
and common centuary. Elsewhere there are sedge and
fern-dominated communities, and scrambled egg lichen.
Sparrowhawks and peregrine falcons hunt overhead, and
skylarks hover, singing their chirruping song high above.
Wheatears and stonechats sing from the gorse and thorn
bushes, while sanderlings and golden plovers thrive on the
abundant supplies of insects.
Butterflies also flourish: look out for the silver-studded blue,
the small copper and the brown argus. Of especial note is
the grizzled skipper, a rare butterfly found in only two
colonies in Cornwall.
3. Keeping to the left of Chapel Rock,
cross the beach. Don't get your feet too
wet in the river. Explore the village of
Perranporth.
Perranporth's name is Cornish for Saint
Piran's cove (Saint Piran is one of the
patron saints of Cornwall). It is believed
that Saint Piran founded a church at
Perranzabuloe near Perranporth in the
seventh century. Buried under sand for
many centuries, it was unearthed early in
the twentieth century, but again left to the
mercy of the sands in the 1970s.
Perran Beach, extends northwest from
the town for nearly 2 miles to Ligger
Point. There are lifeguard beach patrols
from May to September and the beach is
generally safe for bathing although there
are dangerous rip currents around Chapel
Rock at ebb tides.