Meistersinger
Transcription
Meistersinger
S001_Titel_Meister_ENGLISCH_2 07.01.14 11:02 Seite 1 UHREN Meistersinger — Pocket-watch movement with modular addition Paleograph — Simultaneously sporty and elegant Meistersinger — Back to the origins with a chronograph Paleograph — Monopusher chronograph with column-wheel Magazin January/February 2014 UHREN-MAGAZIN Special Issue Exclusively for MEISTERSINGER Meistersinger Paleograph S002_005_Meistersinger_e 07.01.14 11:02 Seite 2 TEST AND TECHNOLOGY Back to the Origins Meistersinger — Paleograph A chronograph in Meistersinger’s collection would seem to contradict this brand’s philosophic gesture, which invites us to experience time in a more relaxed way. With its new Paleograph, the watch brand from Münster combines the single-handed style of the first clocks with the look of the first stopwatches from the early 19th century, thus transporting watch lovers back to the origin in two different senses. Is this concept a success? Our test answers the question. I f you type the word »paleo« into a search engine, the first websites that appear on your list contain tips for a healthy diet. It seems that nowadays »paleo« denotes a nutritional fad. Click one of the links and a website will explain that the paleo diet is based on primeval tastes. A paleo menu features foods eaten by our Stone Age ancestors: if they ate it in prehistoric times, you’re allowed to eat it today; if not, not! Incidentally, this diet really touches the nerve of our times. In an era characterized by superfluity and excess, people yearn for the simple and the pure. So »paleo« means »original« and »primeval.« The neologism »paleograph« would denote a »primeval writer« or an instrument to show time in its primeval form. But can this type of time be stopped and measured as elapsed intervals? Meistersinger’s new wristwatch is a chronograph, and this fact alone suffices to stop a connoisseur in his tracks. After all, the brand’s philosophy is definitely not about pursuing time to the nearest fraction of a second, not about feeling hurried, and not about watching precious time slip through your fingers and run irretrievably away. Like a sundial and like the first mechanical clocks of the late Middle Ages, Meistersinger watches distill the time UHREN–MAGAZIN 1 / 2014 display into one lone indicator. This is intended to produce a welcome deceleration so the watch’s owner can perceive time with a greater sense of relaxation. And now Meistersinger wants to stop time altogether? This seems like a contradiction. This brand first launched a chronograph in 2008. The so-called »Monograph« is a classical two-button chronograph with vertically arranged totalizers: one for the elapsed minutes and another for the elapsed seconds. The timepiece is animated by a selfwinding ETA/Valjoux 7750. The elapsed seconds are shown from the center of the dial. The Chronograph Button Is Integrated into the Crown We tested the Monograph soon after its launch and we were duly impressed, although we noted that its concept seemed to contradict the brand’s philosophy. The difference between the Paleograph and its forerunner begins with the appearance. Each of the two models has two subdials, but the new watch arranges them along the dial’s equator: the subdial at the »9« shows the continually running seconds, while its counterpart at the »3« indicates the elapsed minutes. The chrono- 2 graph mechanism starts when the wearer presses its button, which is integrated into the crown. The time can be set by pulling this button outward. A slight but palpable resistance informs the user that the mainspring has been fully wound. The caliber has no stop-seconds function, so it’s difficult to set this watch to the nearest second after withdrawing its crown. This task is more likely to succeed if you first set the hour-hand to its proper position, return the crown to its zero position, and finally begin winding the watch when the time shown on the Paleograph’s dial is synchronous with the current time. All in all, the Paleograph’s user-friendliness and the displays on its dial concentrate on the essentials. The same can be said for the styling of the timepiece as a whole. The tripartite stainless steel case is 43 millimeters in diameter. The brushed, satin-finished middle piece of the case transitions smoothly into the horns, which are likewise brushed along their sides, but glossy polished on their upper and lower surfaces. The horns taper pointedly downward, but they don’t touch the wearer’s skin when the watch is worn, so the points aren’t uncomfortable. The alligator-skin wristband fits neatly between the horns and WWW.WATCHTIME.NET S002_005_Meistersinger_e 07.01.14 11:02 Seite 3 S002_005_Meistersinger_e 07.01.14 11:02 Seite 4 TEST AND TECHNOLOGY Rate Meistersinger Wearing Test Average daily rate + 2.8 s Fully wound After 24 hours Timing Machine Rate Amplitude Rate Amplitude ZO + 7.2 s 307° + 3.6 s 279° ZU – 2.7 s 312° + 3.8 s 260° 9H + 4.6 s 272° + 3.6 s 223° 6H + 0.2 s 258° – 0.9 s 231° 3H + 0.0 s 265° + 6.6 s 225° X + 1.9 s 283° + 3.3 s 244° D 9.9 s 54° 7.5 s 56° DVH – 0.7 s – 0.6 s DI – 7.0 s – 4.5 s Explanation of rate results Horizontal positions: DU dial up, DD dial down. Vertical positions: 9H nine o’clock up (crown down), 6H six o’clock up (crown left), 3H three o’clock up (crown up). X average of values (average daily rate), D difference between the largest and smallest value, DVH difference between the average value of the vertical positions and the average value of the horizontal positions, DI difference between 6H and DU. MYN13: The movement is embellished with a classical brushed pattern so that one’s gaze isn’t distracted by sophisticated ornamentation, but can fully concentrate on the finely crafted columnwheel mechanism. WWW.WATCHTIME.NET helps to make this chronograph comfortable to wear. The other end of the strap slips easily into the stainless steel folding clasp. The wristband is 20 millimeters wide where it joins the horns: this contributes to the elegant appearance of the timepiece, but initially seems too narrow for the relatively large and rather tall case. Our test on the wrist showed that this impression was mistaken: the strap keeps the watch comfortably and securely fastened to its wearer’s forearm. The slim, glossy polished bezel gives the dial ample space for optimal legibility. The silver-colored face bears an unobtrusive sunburst pattern. Arabic numerals and slender indices, both printed in black, mark the hours in five-minute increments. They’re surrounded by another scale: it’s accurate to the nearest second and is necessary for using the chronograph. The wearer shouldn’t allow himself to be confused by the fact that these indices are not collinear with the hour strokes. A bit of practice soon makes it easy to read the chronograph. The elapsed minutes, on the other hand, are effortlessly legible on their subdial at »3 o’clock.« This counter tallies up to 30 elapsed minutes before its little black hand comes full circle and begins another orbit. The subdial for the continually running seconds is positioned diametrically opposite at »9 o’clock.« Although we wondered whether this display makes 4 sense on a timepiece which lacks to-the-minute indication, it’s nonetheless an attractive detail because it assures that something on the dial is always clearly in motion. The hour-hand moves too, of course, but its slow progress isn’t instantly perceptible. Green luminous material has been applied to dots at »3«, »6«, »9« and »12 o’clock«. This too is a nice detail because it adds colorful accents to an otherwise very uniformlooking dial, but the luminosity isn’t genuinely useful because the hands don’t glow in the dark. When the lights are dim, this timepiece is difficult or impossible to read. The Paleograph’s unobtrusive styling fits tastefully into Meistersinger’s existing collection, but this watch’s inner life is all the more interesting. In many respects, this timepiece is indeed a »primeval writer«, with a construction enlivened by classical details. A hand-wound ETA/Unitas 6498-1 ticks inside the case. Originally conceived for pocket-watches, this caliber doesn’t necessarily seem appropriate for the chronographic complication. On Meistersinger’s behalf, the Swiss firm of Synergies Horlogeres added a modular plate to this archetypal caliber. Modules are usually inserted onto the dial-side of a movement, where they’re invisible to the wearer, but the Paleograph reveals the added construction through the case’s generously glazed UHREN–MAGAZIN 1 / 2014 S002_005_Meistersinger_e 07.01.14 11:02 Seite 5 TEST AND TECHNOLOGY Meistersinger Paleograph As a reference to the first timepieces with built-in elapsedtime function from the early 19th century, the Paleograph is equipped with a column-wheel mechanism. It can be started by pressing a button that’s integrated into the crown. back. Thanks to manual winding, there’s no rotor to block the view of the movement. Ample size is another advantage of the Unitas caliber: its spacious plane provides plenty of room for viewing the module. This marks the first time in the recent history of mechanical watches that a pocket-watch movement has been augmented with a chronograph module. In accord with Meistersinger’s philosophy, the engineers who accomplished this were inspired by the origins of the chronograph per se. The first portable timepieces with built-in stopwatch function were built in the 19th century. The start, stop and zero-return functions were controlled by a column-wheel and triggered by a single button. A Large Glazed Back Reveals a Neatly Crafted Movement Compared to coulisse chronographs, which were developed to facilitate mass production, column-wheel chronographs are considered to be the more technically elaborate variant. Cognizant of this prestige, Synergies Horlogeres equips the Paleograph with a columnwheel mechanism operated via a button integrated into the crown. Horizontal gear coupling is further evidence of horological savoir-faire. The tidy craftsmanship lavished on the components is readily visible through the glass back. A meticulously executed brushed pattern and sand-blasted bridges create a uniformly matte surface. This unpretentious look is a good match for the sleekly simple aesthetics of the Paleograph and is fully in harmony with the philosophy of the MeisterSinger brand. Everything looks very harmonious. One shouldn’t forget, however, that it’s quite challenging to equip a pocket-watch movement with a chronograph module. Our test confirmed the manufacturer’s claim that the Paleograph will keep running for 46 hours between windings, but it’s recommendable to wind a manually wound watch at approximately the same time every day in order to ensure a uniform rate. Our measurements on the timing machine confirmed this. The fully wound Paleograph gained an average of 1.9 seconds per day; the daily gain increased to 3.3 seconds after the watch was allowed to run for 24 hours. When fully wound and with the chronograph switched on, the amplitude declined from 283° to 254° on the average. Of course, this also affects the operation of the chronograph. The watch accordingly gains six sec-onds. Amplitudes decline farther after the Paleograph has run for 24 hours with its chronograph switched on. This suggests that the stopwatch function will create difficulties for the user after two days have elapsed with-out manual winding. The same findings were confirmed by a fourteen-day test. If this watch is regularly wound, it runs at a steady rate and no prob-lems are encountered when using the chronograph. A bit of practice is needed before you can swiftly read the elapsed time because you must concentrate your gaze on the relatively narrow scale along the dial’s outer ring. The uniform color scheme shared by the time display and the stopwatch function exacerbates the difficulty. Furthermore, the chronograph’s elapsed-seconds hand doesn’t advance in the same increments that are marked on the scale: instead, it progresses in much smaller motions, so genuinely exact measurements aren’t always possible. In all other respects, this watch is comfortable to wear and convenient to use. Its diameter of 43 millimeters isn’t unduly large, although the case is a noticeably tall 15.8 millimeters. This shouldn’t pose a problem for men with burly forearms. And with a weight of just 112 grams, the Paleograph thrones lightly atop its wearer’s wrist, where it occasionally calls attention to itself with its relatively loud ticking. But this audible volume is usual for a pocket-watch movement, and the steady ticking sound lends a special charm to this watch. Various details repeatedly remind the wearer of the meaning behind this watch’s name. The Paleograph’s styling consciously references the origins. Meistersinger not only pays homage to the genre of the monopusher column-wheel chronograph as it was built in the 19th century, but also opts for an authentic pocket-watch movement, to which a modular plate is added. This wristwatch could very well appeal to many enthusiasts of mechanical timekeeping. With neither fanfare nor self-aggrandizement, Meistersinger combines its philosophy of decel-erated time with both the modern zeitgeist and the desire to stop time and measure elapsed intervals. With a retail price of 5,498 euros, the Paleograph is a bit costlier than most other Meistersinger watches, but the extra expense is definitely justified for a chronograph wristwatch that encases a special caliber. Text: Melissa Gößling Photos: Zuckerfabrik Fotodesign Data about the Watch Meistersinger Manufacturer Meistersinger GmbH & Co. KG Model Paleograph Reference number EDSC101 Functions Hour with five-minute subdivisions, subdial for the seconds, chronograph (60 elapsed seconds, 30 minutes) Case • Diameter • Height • Crystals Stainless steel 43.0 mm 15.8 mm Sapphire, cambered, antireflective on inner surface (above dial), pane of sapphire crystal in back 50 meters/5 bar according to German Industrial Norm • Watertightness Wristband • Width at horns • Clasp Alligator skin 20 mm Double folding clasp Total weight 112.0 g Model variants With blue dial, Reference EDSC108: 5,498 euros Flaws in tested model None Data about the Movement MYN13 Basic caliber ETA/Unitas 6498-1, hand-wound Produced since 2013 Diameter 36.6 mm Height 7.60 mm No. of jewels 20 rubies Power reserve Ca. 46 hours Balance • Frequency • Shape • Hairspring • Hairspring’s shape • Shock absorption • Fine adjustment Gold-plated brass balance 18,000 A/h = 2.5 Hz Closed hoop Nivarox 2 Flat Incabloc Swan’s neck spring Decorative patterns Brushed pattern Beveled edges? Yes Skeletonized? No Screws Blued Modular architecture? Yes Chronometer certification? No Seal of quality? No Price category Under 10,000 euros Price of tested watch 5,498 euros Evaluation •••••• [4.83] Pros Constructive specialty User friendliness Rate values Timelessly elegant design Wearing comfort Cons Legibility of the chronograph Not legible in the dark Constructive height of the case Pangaea Automatic www.meistersinger.net