fish simmered with otoshibuta - Washoku Cooking by Elizabeth Andoh

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LESSON FIVE
秋刀魚の味噌煮
Sanma no Miso Ni
Miso-Simmered Sanma
As the summer winds down and evenings begin to get cooler, SANMA (Pacific
saury; Cololabis saira) comes to market in most parts of Japan. Although the
usual default mode for cooking sanma is a simple salt grill or shio yaki, a
preparation called MISO NI (miso-simmering) is also delicious. In fact, miso
simmering is particularly well suited to cooking any type of oily fish (what the
Japanese call ao-zakana, literally “blue” fish). The pungent miso helps hold fishy
flavors at bay, especially when ginger peels are added to the simmering broth.
Here is what you will need to make this dish for four people:
4 whole sanma fish OR 4 pieces of mackerel, Spanish mackerel, or kingfish,
each about 4 ounces with center bone remaining intact (the skeleton adds to the
flavor of the simmering broth)
small knob fresh ginger, about 1/2 ounce
4-6 inch piece kombu (kelp)
3 tablespoons full-bodied “red” miso (Sendai miso is a good choice)
2 tablespoons saké
2 tablespoons sugar
© Copyright 2011. All rights reserved by Elizabeth Andoh
adapted from
WASHOKU: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen (Ten Speed Press, 2005)
1
www.WASHOKUcooking.com
LESSON FIVE
Begin by cutting whole sanma into segments, then gutting by rinsing the
intestional tract (see images below).
If you are using mackerel or kingfish, slash the skin with two or three horizonal
cuts to enable heat to penetrate better and to keep the skin from tearing in an
unattractive patterns (above, right).
Shimo furi “frosting” can be performed in one of two ways: either wrap the fish in
a double layer of cheesecloth – this protects the delicate skin and makes it
slightly easier to dip-and-remove the fish from scalding hot water…Or, briefly
lower the fish into the pan of boiling hot water and remove (with a slotted spoon)
as soon as the surface appears white. Either way, you need to have a bowl filled
with ice water nearby. Plunge the frosted fish in the ice water immediately, lift
and pat dry.
Next, prepare neri miso: Combine the red miso with the saké and sugar in a
saucepan. Stir ingredients with a wooden spatula until they are thoroughly mixed.
Add a tablespoon of water and stir again.
Peel a small knob of ginger, setting aside the peels. Grate the ginger, then press
on the gratings to extract 2 or more teaspoons of ginger juice. Add half the juice
© Copyright 2011. All rights reserved by Elizabeth Andoh
adapted from
WASHOKU: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen (Ten Speed Press, 2005)
2
www.WASHOKUcooking.com
LESSON FIVE
to the miso sauce mixture, setting aside the remainder to add in the final few
moments of cooking.
Cook the miso sauce, stirring constantly, over medium-high heat until the
mixture is glossy and the consistency of tomato ketchup. (The sauce will stiffen
and thicken a bit as it cools.) The sauce will bubble and splatter a bit as you cook,
so use caution, and long-handled pans and spatulas. Use a spoon to take a
small sample from the pot. Allow the sample to cool before tasting. Adjust, as
needed, by adding more sugar (if too salty) and/or water (if too stiff). Set aside.
Place a 4 to 6-inch piece of kombu (kelp) In a skillet just large enough to hold the
pieces of frosted fish in a single layer. Add just enough water to barely make 1/2
inch depth (about 1 and 1/4 cups). Add the ginger peels you have reserved.
Place frosted fish in the skillet, cover with an otoshi-buta (wooden lid that sits on
the food, not on the rim of your pot) and over gentle heat bring the liquid to a
simmer, about 1 minute. Remove one spoonfull of liquid from the skillet and mix
with the miso sauce. Return this thinned sauce to the skillet, raise the heat to
medium and re-lid with the otoshi-buta. Simmer for 2 minutes or until the sauce
is very thick and glazing the fish. Add the remaining ginger juice and swirl the
pan to mix it well. Serve the fish hot, or let it cool to room temperature. Spoon
extra sauce over the fish.
© Copyright 2011. All rights reserved by Elizabeth Andoh
adapted from
WASHOKU: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen (Ten Speed Press, 2005)
3