Paddling Styles Primer 2009

Paddling Styles Primer
Shawn Burke
Copyright © 2009, Shawn Burke. All rights reserved.
The author grants the unlimited use of this document, in whole or in part, for non-profit use only,
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An Introduction to Paddling
“There is nothing, absolutely nothing better than messing about in boats,” said the Water Rat in
The Wind In The Willows. And he was right! Whether paddling across quiet mist-shrouded
ponds in early-morning light, descending churning rivers during spring run-off, flying across
flatwater in a canoe marathon, or exploring remote waters off the beaten path, canoeing is one of
the most wonderful ways to spend time outdoors.
This primer will introduce you to the breadth of paddling styles. This is by no means an
instruction manual! The best way to learn how to paddle, or to learn a new paddling style, is to
get good instruction and coaching at the start. This will help you avoid developing bad habits.
Then, get on the water and use your new-found skills. That’s really the point, isn’t it?
Boiled down to its essentials, the necessary elements of canoeing are (1) a canoe; (2) a paddle,
pole, and/or sailing rig; (3) a PFD; and (4) a sense of fun and adventure. We’ll be summarizing
the breadth of canoesport here and at the Maine Canoe Symposium; the basics of selecting a
canoe and a paddle are covered towards the end of this primer.
Intro Paddling
Intro paddling will give you the basis skills needed to propel a boat where you want it to go.
You will learn how to get into and back out of a canoe – and stay dry in the process! You’ll also
learn which end is the front (aka the bow) and the rear (aka the stern). Getting this wrong can
really cramp the bow paddler’s style – literally! Then, you’ll cover the strokes that form the
foundation of canoeing: the forward stroke, the draw, and the pry. The forward stroke moves the
boat forward, the draw moves your end of the canoe towards your paddle side, while the pry
moves your end of the boat away from your paddle side. Depending on the class and the
instructor, you may practice combinations of draws and prys that move the canoe sideways (a
“side slip”) and spin or turn the canoe. You may also learn sweep strokes, which are used to turn
the boat. Optional topics, selected by the instructors, may include selecting and fitting a PFD, or
an introduction to the J-stroke. Even if you’ve paddled a canoe before, the Intro class will help
you brush up on what you know before taking a more advanced class, correct a bad habit, or
even teach you something new.
Tandem Paddling
This class builds on the foundation developed in Intro paddling, and covers the key aspects of
paddling together as a team. Expect to learn side slips and ferries, Duffeks and braces, and other
nifty tricks to make your canoe behave on flatwater. Previous paddling experience, such as that
developed in Intro paddling, is a prerequisite.
Solo Paddling
Learning to paddle solo may be the only option when you can’t find a paddling partner. And, the
best tandem paddlers are usually excellent solo paddlers; you really learn how a canoe responds
to the variety of paddling strokes when you are the only means of propulsion! This class will
cover the aspects of flatwater canoeing unique to solo paddling, including paddle selection,
canoe selection, the C-stroke, and a variety of on-side moves for executing on-side and off-side
turns. Previous tandem paddling experience, including a working familiarity with draws, prys,
and the J-stroke, is a prerequisite.
The J-Stroke
If a stern paddler only does a simple forward stroke, the canoe will slowly turn away from her
paddle side. While this may be great for paddling Great Circle routes, most canoeists want to
travel straight; at least some of the time. By combining a forward stroke with a (correctlyoriented) pry at the end, you can counteract the boat’s tendency to turn, and make ‘er travel
straight as an arrow. While it takes a while to perfect the J, it is a must-have stroke for stern
paddlers, and for solo paddlers as well. So repeat after me: Turn the thumb down.
Whitewater Strokes
If you’re bored with flatwater, or plan on doing some backcountry trips that include moving
water, you’ll need to learn a few stroke combinations that help keep you on the right side of the
water in rapids. You’ll learn tandem combination strokes such as on-side and off-side eddy
turns, side slips, ferries, and setting (aka back ferries). Emphasis will be placed on becoming
comfortable with boat lean, and on learning high and low braces to keep a canoe in balance.
While the course will be taught on flatwater, the lessons carry over to moving water.
Northwoods Traditional Paddling
A variation on the “slicing J” (or “Canadian” stroke in Bill Mason’s lexicon), true Northwoods
paddling uses a narrow-bladed beavertail paddle at a fast stroke rate, a slight bob to the torso to
engage the abdominal muscles, and a slicing underwater recovery to cover a lot of miles with
less effort. And if all that sounds like mumbo jumbo, take the class to learn a traditional
paddling stroke used by Maine guides to paddle all day, and not get tired. A working knowledge
of the J-stroke is a prerequisite.
Classic Solo Paddling
If you’ve ever seen Becky Mason paddle at previous Symposia and said, “I want to learn how to
do that!”, this course is for you. Classic solo is a paddling style seen more commonly in Canada,
practiced by such notables as Omer Stringer and Bill Mason. In classic solo the paddler kneels
amidships in a tandem canoe, tucks their knees into one side of the hull (the chine), and leans the
boat aggressively to that side until the gunnel nearly breaks the water’s surface. This lifts the
bow and stern out of the water, effectively creating a shorter canoe that turns more easily.
Paddling is all done on-side, and includes stroke combinations that permit remarkable slips and
spins where the canoe seems to dance over the water’s surface. This is a fantastic paddling style
to learn and enjoy. You’ll get a lot more out of this class if you have a working familiarity with
the J-stroke, and basic strokes like the draw, the pry, and forward and reverse sweeps.
Freestyle Paddling
Freestyle paddling is a means of moving a canoe with style and grace forward, backwards,
sideways, and in turns and spins. Freestyle paddling is even done competitively, with paddlers
performing a connected series moves to music in an event judged much like skating. You’ll
learn the basic strokes of solo freestyle paddling, including the silent J-stroke, axles, and posts,
with emphasis on becoming comfortable in a heeled boat. And as I’ve often been heard to say,
developing freestyle paddling skills is an excellent way to become a better whitewater paddler.
Sit and Switch Paddling
It’s getting late in the day. You have many miles to cover before reaching your destination,
whether it be a choice campsite on a ledge point, or the comfort of home at day’s end. Sit and
Switch paddling, also called Hit and Switch, the Minnesota Switch, or North American Touring
Technique (NATT), is an excellent way to cover those miles. And you don’t need to learn the Jstroke, either! Sit and Switch paddling emphasizes a shortened forward paddling stroke, where
the bow and stern paddler work opposite sides of the canoe. When the stern paddler sees after
several strokes that the canoe is turning away from her paddle side, she calls “hut” (or something
similar), the paddlers both switch paddling sides, and the canoe continues moving forward. The
process is repeated, canoe starts to turn to the opposite side, whereupon the stern paddler calls
“hut”, both paddlers switch paddling sides… and so forth. Since neither paddler is performing
any corrective strokes, maximum effort is put into moving the hull forward. Naturally, this
stroke is the stroke of choice for canoe racing. Sit and switch is typically done with “bentshaft”
paddles, which are designed for maximum efficiency in forward propulsion and minimum
weight. In this class, you’ll learn the NATT stroke, how and when to switch sides, how to select
a bentshaft paddle, and how to trim a canoe fore-and-aft for best performance.
Double-Bladed Paddling
If a one-bladed paddle is good, shouldn’t a double-bladed paddle be twice as good? Doublebladed paddling was seen commonly in the Adirondacks in the days of Rushton and Nessmuck.
A double bladed paddle enables a solo canoeist to cover a remarkable amount of distance
efficiently. Also, it precludes the need to employ less efficient forward strokes such as the J
when paddling solo. This class will introduce you to double-bladed solo canoeing, and how to
select a double-bladed paddle for a canoe.
Recreational Poling
What’s the best way to move a canoe upstream against a current, even upstream through
whitewater? If you answered, “Hire a Sherpa to carry it,” you may be onto something. But for
the rest of us, the answer is… poling! In recreational (or even “traditional”) poling, you stand up
in the canoe, and propel it by pushing off on the river or lake’s bottom with a 12 to 14-foot long
wooden pole. Moves are generally done on one side of the boat, and include poling variations of
draws, prys, and something akin to the J-stroke. This is a wonderful way to move a canoe,
especially in shallow water. And it provides a welcome stretch of the legs, and the use of
different muscles, on a long day’s paddle.
Modern Poling
Stand tall in your canoe! We’re talking about poling: P-O-L-I-N-G, poling-poling-poling!
Modern poling, a complement to Recreational poling, once again has you stand in the canoe.
You use a lightweight aluminum pole on both sides of the canoe to move through the water,
whether it be shallow or deep. You’ll be introduced to modern poling’s interpretations of draws,
prys, and a kayak stroke for moving forward… or backwards! An emphasis is placed on
becoming comfortable standing in a canoe, and in learning to heel the canoe from the standing
position.
Canoe Sailing
To quote the late, great Jim Bowman, “Sail when you can; paddle when you must.” In the early
parts of the last century, you could find canoes equipped with sailing rigs crowding Boston’s
Charles River basin. Canoes can skim across a lake at remarkable speeds under sail. And all
you need to do is lay back and soak up the sun! In this class you’ll learn the basics of rigging a
canoe for sailing, and if the winds are right, you’ll take one out on Moose Pond. Those of us
using poles and paddles will only be a little jealous.
War Canoe Race
On Sunday, just before lunch, the tribes gather at Water Site ‘F’ to paddle restored 24-foot wood
& canvas canoes in a match race for MCS bragging rights. Everyone is invited to paddle; young
canoeists are especially encouraged to join in. The race organizer will divide paddlers (this
could be you!!!) into teams of around twelve. You’ll then race head-to-head down to the small
island offshore from Water Site ‘A’, around the island, and back to Water Site ‘F’. This race is
fun for participants and spectators alike! Besides, we haven’t had a boat dump since 1993…
Choosing a Canoe
I’m very opinionated when it comes to canoes. So be forewarned!
Canoes are amazingly varied craft. Once you get beyond the more common recreational
tandems, they embody increasingly specialized materials and designs. So how do you choose?
First and foremost, you should decide what you will be doing with your canoe. Will you be
puttering about on the local mill pond on calm Summer nights, pushing the limits of an open boat
in Class IV whitewater, racing the 70-mile General Clinton canoe marathon, or something in
between? Will you always paddle tandem, or will you sometimes paddle solo as well? Will you
only paddle solo? Will you go wilderness tripping? Will you ever want to race your canoe, and
if so, in what type(s) of water? Do you expect your interests and skills to evolve over time?
Once you answer these questions, you can select a hull material and shape appropriate to your
needs. It is best to consider your long-term aspirations and plans, and pick accordingly.
Then again, you could always buy more than one boat.
Materials
Birchbark – If you want a birchbark canoe, either find a nice stand of old white birch and stake
out a building bed (don’t forget the awl and crooked knife), place an order with one of the few
builders who actually make them and wait a few years, or inherit one. The native peoples of
eastern North America used hand-cut cedar planking and ribs, black spruce root lashings, pine
tar, and a skin of birch bark to build the most versatile watercraft ever invented. They could be
repaired in the field with readily-found materials. And they were durable enough to be used on
the long-distance fur trade routes that spanned Canada. While a birchbark canoe isn’t in the
cards for most paddlers, it’s nice to dream, isn’t it?
Wood & Canvas – Cedar ribs are bent over a form, sheathed with thin cedar planks, and then the
whole is covered with a taught layer of canvas. The canvas is then filled and painted. Wood &
canvas canoes are things of beauty. The material permits the construction of hulls with fine lines
– the old Kennebec canoes come to mind – and almost any shape or size. They are strong yet
flexible, and with a little maintenance can last a canoeing lifetime. With a few woodworking
skills, they can be repaired in the field. They tend to yield fairly heavy hulls, weighing 70 to 80
lbs for a 17-foot canoe (comparable to ABS). They aren’t cheap, either. At the turn of the
century there were a tremendous number of companies building canoes from wood & canvas.
Now, Cedarwood makes canoes based on the old Chestnut forms in New Brunswick, Muskoka
builds fine hulls in southern Ontario, and Maine’s own Jerry Stelmok and Rollin Thurlow build
gorgeous canoes based the classic designs of E.M. White. You’ll also find a number of local
builders as well who produce a handful of canoes a year.
Cedar Plank & Rib – Most commonly found in hulls made in and around Peterborough, Ontario,
these light, stiff hulls are things of beauty. I am unaware of anyone commercially building
canoes in this style at present. But I saw several at the Canadian Canoe Museum, and they are
stunningly beautiful. Canoes built in this style can have extremely fine lines, and comparatively
modest weights. Many were decked, or at least partially so, and many were designed to
accommodate sailing rigs.
Cedar Strip – Strips of cedar are bent over a strongback frame, and stapled and glued together.
Trim and sand the hull, fiberglass it, add gunnels and seats, finish with several coats of varnish,
and voila! Instant canoe! “Stripper” canoes are generally the province of home builders, and
cover the gambit from floating bathtubs to fine racing hulls. They weigh about the same or a
little less than ABS hulls depending on the thickness of cedar used to build the hull. They are
fairly durable, and repairable. You’ll see Morris wood strip racing canoes at many canoe races.
Fiberglass – Fiberglass can be used to construct canoes with fine lines and moderate to low
weights, but I must emphasize the word “can.” The best layups were made by companies like
Mad River “back in the day.” Fiberglass hulls are less expensive than more exotic composite
hulls made from Kevlar or carbon fiber. But, since it is comparatively easy to build canoes from
fiberglass, several companies build thick, heavy layups using chopped glass fiber that are pigs to
paddle. Buyer beware! Fiberglass hulls are flexible and fairly durable. Be prepared to have the
hull’s bottom show scars after a few seasons worth of rocks and gravel chew up the gel coat
(white or tan hulls show this less). Fiberglass canoes can be repaired at home with good results,
and in the field with mixed results.
Aluminum – After World War II, Grumman had excess capacity for producing aluminum
sheeting, a material used in military aircraft during the war. They found that aluminum could be
formed into canoe hulls for an American population ready for recreation. Aluminum canoes
were sold by the truckload to boys and girls’ summer camps, replacing wood & canvas canoes
that required far more maintenance. Aluminum canoes are durable, and weigh about the same as
an ABS hull of comparable size. Minor dents and dings can be repaired in the field with
judicious application of a rock or duct tape. Major damage can be difficult to repair in the field,
as these sometimes involve large rents in the sheathing from close encounters with sharp rocks in
whitewater. Aluminum hulls are noisy: every time you pry off the hull, or move in the boat, you
sound off like a large rusty oil drum. And aluminum can “stick” to rocks in rivers. Prices are
quite reasonable, and aluminum canoes require almost no maintenance. You can leave them
outside in the winter with no ill effects (as long as the snowload doesn’t hog the hull).
Polyethylene (“Crosslink” and other related layups) – The poor cousin of ABS, this material is
actually a composite “sandwich” of inner and outer sheathings surrounding an expanded plastic
foam core. Polyethylene will fatigue over time, leading to distorted hulls with diminished
paddling performance. The Old Town “Discovery” series is built using this technology, and
while the defect rate from manufacture is high, the overall manufacturing cost is modest. It can’t
be repaired effectively in the field since most things won’t stick to polyethylene; it can be
repaired in the shop with some care if you know how to activate the polymer’s surface to get a
proper bond. It yields hulls somewhat heavier than ABS. Avoid this material if you can. Save
your pennies for a better canoe.
ABS – ABS is another plastic composite “sandwich” of inner and outer sheathing surrounding an
expanded plastic foam core. However, unlike polyethylene, ABS hulls don’t fatigue
significantly over time. This material is durable, somewhat heavy, and can be repaired in the
field with fair results. It doesn’t permit the fine lines of a kevlar or fiberglass hull, or even a
wood and canvas hull. But for overall utility for the general paddler, ABS comes out on top with
me. Expect a 17 foot hull to weigh 65 to 80 lbs depending on the thickness of the layup. Note
that thinner layups may “oilcan” when paddled aggressively. Nice ABS hulls are made by Old
Town, Mad River, Swift, and Wenonah.
Kevlar – Light, stiff, and expensive, kevlar is used in touring and racing hulls. It is also used in
bullet-proof vests, so suffice it to say that the stuff is strong. Kevlar hulls consists of a honeycolored high-strength fabric filled and coated with an epoxy resin, formed around a mold. Some
recreational hulls add an outer gel coat layer that adds abrasion resistance, weight, and many
options for color. Kevlar can be patched in the field, but if you want to work with kevlar fabric,
or its higher tech cousin carbon fiber, invest in some carbon-faced shears, and gloves – torn hulls
have extremely sharp edges. A 18’ 6” foot tandem hull can weigh as little as 34 lbs, which is a
dream on long portages. It can be formed into hulls with beautiful, fine lines that are quite stiff.
Durability varies with the layup: thin layups are best confined to flatwater touring. Wenonah,
Bell, Clipper, and Souris River build some nice Kevlar hulls.
Carbon Fiber – A fairly recent addition to the canoe builder’s tool kit, carbon fiber cloth takes
the positive attributes of Kevlar to another level. The resulting black hulls are distinctive, light,
and stiff… and very expensive. You’ll most commonly find carbon fiber employed in flat water
marathon racing canoes – an 18’ 6” solo cruiser can weigh as little as 19 pounds – but companies
like Bell have incorporated a hybrid carbon/Kevlar cloth weave as an optional layup in several of
their touring hulls, and Savage River makes some nifty all-carbon fast touring canoes. Look for
carbon fiber racing hulls from Savage River, Wenonah, Gillies, and Crozier.
Canoe Hulls
Terminology Defined
BOW – The front end of the canoe.
STERN – The back end of the canoe.
STEM – The ends of a canoe, in particular the edge that cuts the water.
GUNWALE (“GUNNEL”) – The strips of wood, aluminum, or plastic that cap the edges of the
hull.
THWART – The wood or aluminum cross members that keep the hull spread apart.
SHEAR – Looking side-on, the curve along the top of the hull going from midships to either
stem.
TUMBLEHOME – Looking head-on, the inward curve at the top of the hull seen on solo canoes
and some tandems.
FREEBOARD – The height of the hull’s sides above the waterline.
ROCKER – The curve of the keel (if any) from stem to stem. (If the ends of the canoe lie lower
in the water than the center, this is called “hogged,” the opposite of rocker. Hogged hulls are
no fun to paddle.)
KEEL – Something you never, ever want on a canoe.
FLARE – Looking head-on, the widening of a hull from the chine to the gunnels seen on
whitewater hulls, and towards the ends of some touring canoes. Flare can help divert waves,
and keep a boat drier.
INITIAL STABILITY – The tippiness or lack thereof of a canoe from its initial vertical orientation.
SECONDARY STABILITY – The tippiness or lack thereof of a canoe after it is leaned.
TROUT SCOUTING – What one does after exceeding a canoe’s secondary stability.
Hull Types
Flatwater Touring – These are generally lighter weight fiberglass or kevlar hulls with a shallow
V-shaped cross-section, or “sharper” arch cross-section. Lengths are typically 17’ or more, with
fine squared stems. They sometimes sacrifice initial stability (the perceived “tippiness” of a
canoe) for speed, and are less maneuverable than a tripping or whitewater hull owing to the flat
keel and sharp ends. They also may have lower freeboard (7” to 8” even, compared to a
whitewater boat’s 14”), asymmetric shear, and even an asymmetric hull that is widest aft of
center. Good examples are the Mad River “Malecite,” Old Town “Canadienne,” Wenonah
“Minnesota II,” and Bell “Northwind.”
Tripping – These are typically ABS or wood & canvas hulls with a shallow arch cross-section.
Lengths are typically around 17’, although wood & canvas classics like the E.M. White “Guide”
can be found in 18’6” lengths and longer, and the Old Town “Tripper XL” is 20’ long. They
tend to be stable hulls, are reasonably maneuverable, and are not all that fast. They have higher
freeboard to facilitate greater load-handling capacity. Good examples are the Old Town
“Tripper”, E.M. White “Guide”, Chestnut “Prospector”, Mad River “Explorer”, and Dagger
“Legend”.
Solo – These are generally but not always shorter hulls than their tandem cousins. More
typically, they are narrower than tandem canoes so as to enable a solo paddler sitting amidships
to reach the water without using an inordinately long paddle. Flatwater touring hulls like the
Mad River “Independence,” Wenonah “Advantage,” and Bell “Magic” in composite layups are
fast, fairly tippy for the novice, and can keep up with most tandems if well paddled. Some of
these solo touring hulls have surprisingly low freeboard – witness the Independence and Slipper
hulls –making them less likely to be slowed by wind, but more likely to ship water in big waves.
Solo tripping canoes like the Mad River “Guide” and Old Town “Penobscot 15” are shorter ABS
layups well suited to tripping that includes whitewater. They consequently have higher
freeboard, and weigh more than a solo touring hull.
Whitewater – These are generally specialized ABS hulls with substantial rocker, flared bows,
curved stems, and strongly arched cross-sections. They turn exceedingly well, and consequently
track very poorly. They usually have poor initial stability, and a continuous transition from
initial to secondary stability. For serious whitewater enthusiasts they are outfitted with hullfilling flotation bags, EVA foam saddles, and thigh straps to secure the paddler to the hull for
radical maneuvering. Dagger, Mad River, and Old Town made some fine whitewater hulls.
Marathon Racing – The Ferraris of the canoeing world, marathon racing hulls look more like
javelins than canoes. These long, narrow canoes usually have no rocker, limited stability,
maximum width about a foot aft of the boat’s center, low freeboard, and squared stems. The
bow position in a tandem racer can get downright uncomfortable owing to limited space for your
feet. Solo racing hulls have a high dump factor. They are designed to go straight and fast,
reaching speeds of 7mph and higher on flatwater. Once you paddle one, it’s hard to go back to
an ABS tripping hull. Representative hulls include the Wenonah “V1” and “J-203,” and the
Savage River “JD Pro” and “D-IIx,”
My Favorite Canoes
If I had to pick one and only one canoe to own, it would be an Old Town “Tripper”, or preferably
a “Ranger” (a Tripper with wood gunnels). It is a versatile 17’2” ABS hull very loosely modeled
on the classic Chestnut Prospector. The Tripper can be paddled tandem or solo (the Canadian
kneel works well solo if you get down in the chines and really lean it to the rails); can handle a
big load of gear and kids; has good initial and secondary stability; is fairly adept at whitewater;
and is virtually indestructible. It’s drawbacks are that it has high freeboard, making it dry in
waves but a problem in wind; it’s heavy at 80 lbs; and because the hull’s shape is a compromise
for overall performance, it isn’t fast. You can save some money and buy a “second” at the Old
Town factory.
Other favorites include the Mad River “Independence” solo, Mad River “Slipper” solo, E.M.
White “Guide,” Chestnut “Prospector 16,” Dagger “Legend,” Swift “Osprey,” Wenonah
“Minnesota II,” Savage River “D-IIx” solo marathon cruiser, Wenonah “Advantage” solo, and
Old Town “Penobscot 17.” All are fine canoes. I wish I had one of each!
Paddles and Paddling Styles
So you’ve learned a spiffy new paddling stroke. And you’ve purchased the canoe of your
dreams. Why ruin everything by paddling with a hunk of lumber more suited to building a
campfire than propelling a canoe with style and grace?
Most canoeists spend too little time selecting their canoe paddles. After reviewing all of the
available canoes, then spending a thousand dollars or more on a beautiful new hull, selecting a
paddle is usually an afterthought. And newbies often rely on the advice of salespeople, many of
whom are only occasional canoe paddlers. But consider: on a wilderness canoeing trip you can
take from 6,00 to 15,000 paddle strokes per day! Spending a little time selecting the right paddle
now can make those hours on the water far easier… and even make you more comfortable at
day’s end.
So indulge yourself: Spend a little time trying a variety of paddles and paddle materials, learn
how to size a paddle, and for as little as $40US you can get a paddle that will make you smile.
Anatomy of a Paddle
Sizing and Selecting a Paddle
So I’ll let you in on a secret: There is no one correct way to size and pick a canoe paddle. Here’s
why: everyone has a unique torso and arm length, and the seats in canoes are set at various
heights with respect to the canoe’s waterline. Also, sometimes you’ll want to paddle from a
kneeling position, which can lead to a preference for shorter paddles. In whitewater you
generally want a longer paddle to execute those “must moves.” And if you paddle in a
traditional Maine Guide stance, e.g. standing in the stern, then all bets are off!
So where to you start? One way is to sit in a chair whose seat is the same height as the height of
your canoe seat from the waterline. Then, take a paddle, invert it, and rest the grip on the floor in
front of you. Then, look at the paddle while holding the shaft vertical. If the paddle’s shoulder
is at around eye level, then you’ve determined a good starting point for paddle length. If you are
sizing a bentshaft paddle (more on bentshaft paddles later), the shoulder should be around chin
height when held in the same way.
Or, you could shortcut the entire process, and purchase a 54” straightshaft paddle if you are
between 5’4” and 5’9” tall, or a 57” to 58” straightshaft paddle if you are 5’9” to 6’2” tall.
Similarly, 51” to 53” bentshaft paddles with 12 degree bends and cambered power faces (e.g.,
those made by Zaveral or Malone) work very nicely for most people in non-racing hulls. These
are not a hard and fast rules, but seems to be good starting points.
Paddles are constructed from a variety of materials. Now remember the little statistic I quoted
about how many paddle strokes you can take in a day of tripping? That should suggest to you
that you want to focus on a lightweight paddle materials in most (but not all) applications.
Eastern white spruce fits the bill quite well, especially if the paddle’s tip is reinforced either with
an inset strip of hardwood or covered with a phenolic strip. Cherry is a good second choice even
though it is a bit heavier, but few mass-market companies make a wide selection of paddles in
cherry. White ash, a traditional material owing to its strength and flexibility, is a good choice if
you don’t mind the extra weight. I’ve seen a few paddles made out of hickory that were
beautiful, springy, and light. You’ll also find laminates that combine cherry, spruce, and other
woods; just be sure the result doesn’t weigh a ton.
As far as composite materials, carbon fiber paddles are amazing… and extremely expensive.
However, my various 48” to 52” Zaveral carbon fiber bentshaft paddles weigh a mere 8.5
ounces, compared to 24 to 32 ounces for most wooden paddles, and after a long day on the water
my arms and shoulders thank me for the investment. There are other sturdy composites used in
specialized whitewater paddles, such as those employed by Werner. They weigh a lot, but in
whitewater you want to make sure your paddle stays in one piece while jousting with the rocks.
One note on composite paddles, including those with wooden composite shafts: They tend to be
very stiff. This can do a number on your elbows over time, since stiff composite paddles don’t
flex like most wood paddles when you paddle hard. If tendonitis is catching up on you, try not to
paddle with a composite paddle day in and day out.
Lastly, consider the shape of the paddle’s grip. You’ll want to confine yourself to nondirectional grips except for bentshaft paddles. If you sight along the paddle from the side, and
see that the shape of the grip favors holding the paddle only one way, don’t buy it! Many
paddling moves, especially transitions to and from low braces when running whitewater, may
require you to rotate the paddle one half turn. A directional grip will no doubt end up oriented
the wrong way when you need it most – this has happened to me. Again, this rule doesn’t apply
to bentshaft paddles: they are always oriented one way owing to the bend.
So let’s review paddle shapes so you can decide which are appropriate for you. What follows is
not an exhaustive list, but rather a summary of the more prominent designs.
Beavertail Paddles
Beavertail paddles have an oval blade shaped like… a beaver’s tail! Most are made from white
spruce, ash, or cherry. This is a traditional paddle shape – almost stereotypical for the sport.
Beavertail paddles with thin, narrow blades and flat grips are sometimes referred to as
“Northwoods” paddles. They lend themselves to most any paddling style, and are a good allaround choice. Grey Owl and Shaw & Tenney make nice beavertail paddles in white ash and
white spruce. Shaw & Tenney even make a traditional Guide paddle, an extra-long beavertail
paddle with a long, flat grip.
Ottertail Paddles
Ottertail paddles are very much like beavertail paddles, except their blades taper toward the tip.
They are “finesse” paddles best suited to Classic Solo paddling; they can also be employed in
Northwoods paddling. They are not suited for whitewater owing to their small blade. When
used in a J-stroke with an underwater recovery they are almost silent, making them ideal for
searching out wildlife. Grey Owl makes a nice ottertail paddle in cherry; Swift sells a nice
private labeled cherry ottertail as well. If you can find a Blackfeather cherry ottertail, buy it!
(And buy me one while you’re at it!)
Voyageur Paddles
These are modeled after the paddles used by the Voyageurs on the Canadian fur trade routes.
The grip on a Voyageur paddle tends to be smaller than those found on modern paddles. The
blade may taper slightly towards the end, or may start out narrow and be straight with no taper to
the end. The ends are always squared. Traditionally, they were painted red or some other bright
color. They paddle like an ottertail paddle, although their squared ends make them slightly
harder to finesse moves like underwater recoveries. Red Feather makes a gorgeous Voyageurstyle paddle in curly maple. Grey Owl also makes a Voyegeur-like paddle that’s a lot of fun to
use.
“Sugar Island” Paddles
Take a beavertail paddle, don’t taper the blade towards the end, and voila! A Sugar Island
paddle. These tend to have 8” wide blades, and a hardwood or phenolic plastic reinforcement at
the end to prevent cracks and splitting when saying hello to rocks. This is a great overall paddle
shape, useful in tripping and whitewater. The squared ends and wider blade make it difficult to
finess underwater recoveries – they tend to “grab” the water a bit. But if I had to own only one
paddle, it would probably be a Sugar Island. Grey Owl makes the best buy in a canoe paddle,
period, in their “Scout”. This is a white spruce Sugar Island paddle with an 8” wide blade and
phenolic reinforcing strip at the blade’s end. You can often buy them for less than $40US.
You’ll chew them up over a few seasons, but for that price you can buy 7 for the cost of one
composite bentshaft paddle! Beware of ash or cherry/spruce glue-ups, as they tend to be heavy
in this paddle shape. Voyageur makes a nice variant where the blade tip is rounded slightly at
the corners.
Whitewater Paddles
Most whitewater paddles have a Sugar Island shape with a wider blade, and a “T” grip. The T
grip let’s you really, positively grab the paddle and hold its axial orientation. However, I find T
grips tiring when paddled over great distances, so these don’t make good tripping or touring
paddles. Sawyer and Grey Owl make nice wood whitewater paddles in ash. Werner makes an
indestructible whitewater paddle with a slightly more oval blade shape in a nifty blue composite
shaft and white plastic blade. Heavy, but it will take a beating.
Bentshaft Paddles
Who sat on the paddle and broke it? I’ve heard people say that when they first see a bentshaft.
The blade is angled with respect to the shaft, hence the “bend.” These are used in Sit and Switch
(“NATT”) paddling, where the stroke is all power phase with no corrective action. By angling
this way, the blade stays oriented at or near the vertical throughout the short power stroke,
maximizing the amount of forward power imparted by the stroke. Zaveral makes outstanding
carbon fiber composite bentshaft paddles that weigh as little as 6.5 ounces. Malone makes a nice
wooden bentshaft, as does Foxworx. These manufacturers use 12 degree bends, and camber the
powerface. (I find that a 14 degree bend, like that found on Grey Owl and the old Barton
bentshafts, makes me adopt a less comfortable paddling position.) And the cambered power face
makes the catch phase of the stroke more forgiving of slight blade rotations. For true over-thetop paddling satisfaction at an over-the-top price, try a Zaveral PowerSurge paddle, which has a
doubly-concave powerface for an outstanding catch.
Customizing for Comfort – If you have a wooden paddle, sand all of the varnish off the grip.
Finish sand down to 220 grit. Then apply several coats of Watco’s Exterior Oil Finish (or
equivalent) to the bare wood. This will keep you from getting blisters. Over a season’s use the
grip will develop an extraordinarily smooth patina that is a pleasure to hold. I’ve even done this
to the shaft of some new paddles where I grip, to good result. No blisters!
Further Reading
This primer can only introduce the breadth of paddling styles and pursuits. The interested
paddler will benefit from spending more time on the water, taking a course or two, and reading
any number of excellent books on canoeing. Besides, they make great reading when the rivers
are frozen in wintertime. What follows is a sampling of books on canoeing technique.
Paddling Technique
Path of the Paddle by Bill Mason
Path of the Paddle: Quiet Water (VHS), Bill Mason
Path of the Paddle: Moving Water (VHS), Bill Mason
Paddle Your Own Canoe by Gary and Joannie McGuffin
Canoeing and Kayaking Instructors Manual by the American Canoe Association
Freestyle Canoeing by Lou Glaros and Charlie Wilson
Solo Canoeing by John Foshee
Poling Technique
Beyond the Paddle by Garrett Conover
Pole, Paddle, and Portage by Bill Riviere
The Basic Essentials of Canoe Poling by Harry Rock
Canoe Poling by Al, Syl, & Frank Beletz (out of print)
Racing
Canoe Racing by Fred Heese (out of print)
Canoe Racing by Peter Heed and Dick Mansfield
Tripping
The Complete Wilderness Paddler by Davidson and Rugge
Expedition Canoeing by Cliff Jacobson
The Wilderness Paddler’s Handbook by Alan Kesselheim
Canoeist’s Q&A by Cliff Jacobson
Song of the Paddle by Bill Mason
At Home in the Wilderness by Beth & David Buckley
Babes In The Woods: Canoe Camping with Children (VHS) by Northern Stars Planetarium
Other
River Rescue by Les Bechdel and Slim Ray
Canoeing Safety and Rescue by Doug McKown
Medicine for the Backcountry by Buck Tilton and Frank Hubbell