tokyo - Paperplane

082
WORDS WILFRED BRANDT
PHOTOS CHRIS SEARL
TOKYO,
JAPAN
HOKKAIDO
HONSHU
TOKYO
KYUSHU
SHIKOKU
NAGANO
CENTURIES OLD TRADITIONS, SPACE AGE TECHNOLOGY, UNBRIDLED
RETAIL THERAPY, AND THE WORLD’S MOST DENSELY POPULATED
CITY STOCKED WITH ITS FRIENDLIEST INHABITANTS. HELLO TOKYO!
TOKYO
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084
TOKYO, JAPAN
The city of Tokyo is home to 12 million people, but the
population of greater Tokyo is 30 million. That means,
not only are Tokyo’s streets themselves packed with
residents, but every weekday, the city actually swells
to nearly three times its size, only to deflate again come
nightfall. It’s astounding that such a busy city should
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remain not only orderly, but quiet and clean. You can
spend a week here and count on one hand the number
of times you hear a car horn. You can spend all day on
the subway and never hear a mobile ring. You can stand
in the middle of Shibuya’s busiest thoroughfare during
peak hour and not have a single collision.
It’s hard to say why exactly Tokyo’s society works so
well, but the great thing for us foreigners is – it does.
Crime is virtually non-existent, so you don’t have to worry
about being robbed. People are extremely helpful, so you
don’t have to worry about getting lost. Food and drink are
easily affordable, so you don’t have to worry about going
broke. And the city is a psychedelic sensory overload, so
you don’t have to worry about growing bored. So jump
in headfirst. The worst thing that can happen to you is
nothing.
086
HOTEL EXCEL, SHIBUYA
SHIBUYA MARK CITY BUILDING
1-12-2, DOGENZAKA, SHIBUYA-KU
TOKYO 150-0043
+81-3-5457-0109
Situated directly above the Shibuya
train station, it’s impossible to get
lost on your way to this one. The
rooms are decent, though a bit
pricey for the size. The location can’t
be beat, but if you’re after a quiet
spot away from the hustle and bustle,
this isn’t it.
TOKYO, JAPAN
SLEEP
As you can tell by the number of skyscrapers wrenched into the city skyline, space in Tokyo is a hot commodity.
Therefore, if you’re looking for something grand and expansive, you will probably have to pay. Consider how much
time you will spend lounging around and weigh your options (locals scoff that the reason Scarlett Johansson was
so miserable in Lost In Translation was because she never left her hotel). If you bring along any electronics (laptop,
rechargeable batteries, etc) you will either need to borrow from your hotel, or in some cases, purchase from an
electronics store, a three-prong converter. Most hotels have incredibly fast internet access and all the amenities of
home, so you should sleep safe and sound anywhere you choose.
CERULEAN TOWER TOKYU
HOTEL, SHIBUYA
26-1 SAKURA-GAOKA-CHO,
SHIBUYA-KU TOKYO 150-8512
+81-3-3476-3000
ceruleantower-hotel.com
40 floors of spacious rooms and
stunning views (some as far as Mt.
Fuji!) situated just minutes away
from bustling Shibuya station; this
will set you back a bit but is worth
it. There’s a restaurant and lounge
on the 40th floor, as well as gym and
pool facilities, which are quite rare
in Tokyo. Request a corner room, as
they have views from the tub. Nice.
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PARK HYATT, SHINJUKU
3-7-1-2 NISHI-SHINJUKU,
SHINJUKU-KU TOKYO 163-1055
+81-3-5322-1234
parkhyatttokyo.com
Elegant and classy, this is the
ultimate luxury whilst visiting Tokyo
(and the ultimate expense), with
precision staff, all the comforts
of home, and your room cleaned
twice daily. Lost In Translation was
set here, and while the experience
staying there is fantastic, fans of the
film looking to visit the restaurant
and bar should be forewarned
they are overpriced an can be
unaccommodating.
HOTEL EXCELLENT, EBISU
1-9-5 EBISU-NISHI
SHIBUYA-KU TOKYO
Located in the more tranquil and
classy surroundings of Ebisu, the
accommodations here are smaller,
but much more affordable. It’s closer
to Daikanyama in a terrific building,
near lots of quaint stores, cafes,
and bars. If you’re looking for a less
raucous environment and some
quiet(er) streets to roam, this
is your place.
CHILDREN’S CASTLE HOTEL
5-53-1 JINGUMAE, SHIBUYA-KU
TOKYO 150-0001
Fun, cheap accommodation for
those with children or simply kids
at heart, this is a short walk to
downtown Shibuya and next to a
terrific ABC Books. It’s part of a
huge recreation center facility for
children, and guests may make use
of their pool, roof garden, and gym.
From the main road, look for the big
bizarre sculptures out front by artist
Taro Okamoto.
CLASKA, MEGURO
1-3-18 CHUO-CHO
MEGURO-KU TOKYO 152-0001
claska.com
This boutique hotel far off the
beaten path has a large gallery/DJ
party space, bookstore, fantastic
landscaped rooftop terrace, and
nine uniquely designed rooms. The
amenities are sparse, and some
rooms can run small, but it’s
definitely affordable, and a real treat
for any art and design aficionados.
The best looking hotel in Tokyo
hands down.
088
TOKYO, JAPAN
EAT & DRINK
The Japanese are artisans who take great pride in
everything they do. This includes cooking, so you’ll be
hard pressed to find a bad meal, and the good news is
you can eat easily for $5 and up. The cuisine is as varied
as the people; go traditional with sushi, ramen, or yakitori
(chicken skewers) or eat international cuisine from French
to Lebanese. Many restaurants have English menus, and
most at least feature pictures. For the quintessential
Japanese experience, try a slow, elegant “kaiseki” dinner,
which combines subtle flavors, peaceful surroundings,
and elegant presentation.
Tokyo bars are boisterous yet unthreatening. You will see
men passed out drunk, but you will probably never see
a fight. Buses and trains stop running around midnight,
which is also when the local taxi fares triple. So if you miss
the last train, you have three choices: spend a bundle on
a cab, check into a capsule hotel, or rent a karaoke room
and sing ‘till the trains start at 6AM.
OFFICE
YAMAZAKI BLDG. 2-7-18 KITAAOYAMA, MINATO-KU TOKYO
107-0061
+81-3-5786-1052
transit-web.com
Great concept – a bar fitted out as
an office. If you’re a workaholic you’ll
feel right at home, but if you’re a
bona fide slacker steer clear of this
one. The crowds have died down
since the opening, so get in for some
terrific tunes and a fantastic view.
GHEE
2-18-7 JINGUMAE, SHIBUYA-KU
TOKYO 150-0001
+81-3-3401-4023
Definitely some of the best Japanese
curry you’re going to come across
in Tokyo served in what feels like
your nana’s antique shop. They’ve
got a big central table to eat at and
play reggae music, which seems to
be the preferred hipster genre of late
in Japan.
BOMBAY BAZAAR, DAIKANYAMA
B1 20-11 SARUGAKU-CHO,
SHIBUYA-KU TOKYO 150-0033
+81-3-5144-8256
Tucked away in a basement
amidst the hip and edgy shops of
Daikanyama, this hippied out cafe
serves scrumptious veggie dishes
and curries. And the café’s sand and
cedar interior takes eco-friendly to
new levels by incorporating entirely
recycled furnishings (check out
the bird’s nest sculpture near the
entrance). They use only organic
veggies and grains, and all natural
feed and seasonings.
KINNDENMARU, SHIBUYA
SHIBUYAKU UDAGAWA + YOU
24-6 TOKYO (in the laneway with
all the sneaker stores behind
the 109 Building)
There’s hundreds of fantastic
ramen shops the size of glorified
phonebooths all over town - we just
picked one with a cute waitress. For
around $6 you get a basketball-sized
bowl of the heartiest, tastiest noodles
you’ve ever slurped (and slurping is
encouraged by local aficionados). In
some instances you’ll encounter a
vending machine at the entrance,
where you purchase a ticket to give
the waitress for your meal.
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BAPE CAFÉ, HARAJUKU
3-27-22 JINGUMAE, SHIBUYA-KU
TOKYO 107-0062
+81-3-5770-6560
Japanese branding goes far
beyond the reaches of our western
imaginations, and this is just one
clothing label that’s crossed over into
the food service industry, albeit easily
the most notable. After Bathing Ape
designer Nigo outfitted every kid in
Japan from hip-hop hipsters to infant
toddlers (check the Baby Milo store)
he decided, why not feed ‘em too? A
cozy, nicely outfitted café with Kaws
decorations and a regular queue.
DEAN & DELUCA,
VARIOUS LOCATIONS
deandeluca.co.jp
A New York institution that’s made
its way to Tokyo, D&D is a great
place to start your day with tasty
pastries, deli delights, and a strong
latte. With several locations around
town, their Shibuya station store is
situated within Foodshow, a buzzing
marketplace where you can pick up
lollies and treats for friends back
home, or fresh fish - if you have
somewhere to cook it, of course.
AIR
HIKAWAY BLDG. LEVEL B2 2-11
SARUGAKU-CHO, SHIBUYA-KU
TOKYO
+81-3-6415-6231
air-tokyo.com
This friendly, low attitude dance club
specializes in house music and was
featured in Lost In Translation. Slick,
modern interior and de riguer light
show with a kinda young crowd.
Check their schedule online to see
whose playing what kind of music
before you head over.
HIYOKOYA, AKIHABARA
ON THE GROUND FLOOR OF THE
TAKAO BUILDING IN SHOWA-DORI
TOKYO
+81-3-5812-5909
If you’ve always dreamt of being
served by Japanese waitresses
dressed as cartoon French maids,
this is the place for you. Popular
with anime-loving otakos, this
restaurant serves curry rice, pasta,
and pizza all for around $12, and
has a “no touching” policy regarding
their waitresses. Nearby is another
restaurant where waitresses dress up
as your choice of Snow White, a high
school girl, or Santa’s elf. Creepy.
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TOKYO, JAPAN
PLAY
MUSIC
At Airs Music Video, Shinjuku (airsonline.com) you’ll find two floors
of wall-to-wall music DVDs: film
clips, live footage, TV interviews,
and anything else music related.
All videos are rated on quality,
professional videos being assessed
with an A, B, or C, and amateur
videos an X, Y, or Z. If you’ve been
wondering where you can buy a
compilation of every Smiths video or
that live Guns N Roses show where
Axl jumped in the crowd and beat
up a fan, they’re all here. For great,
varied music cheap, Disk Union has
several stores, one of the best being
their 7-story Shinjuku shop. Other
stores worth checking out include
Jet Set and Chicken Records in
Shimokita, and Bonjour Records
in Daikanyama.
Shopping is Tokyo’s preferred leisure activity, and
the city is awash with eye-dazzling stores to suit
every budget and taste. Harajuku sparkles with trendy
teen boutiques; Daikanyama is the ‘hood for hardcore
streetwear; Akihabara is a mecca for ‘otako’- geeky anime
and tech-heads. Locals love Shimokitazawa for vintage
record shopping and low-key bars with an East Village /
Camden style vibe. Jinbo-cho is great for antiquarian and
art books (Misha, Skatething, and French director Gaspar
Noe shop here). Aoyama is home to edgier high-end fare.
And Shibuya has a terrific cross-section of fashion, book
and music stores. For extensively researched details and
maps to every shop you could possibly imagine, click on
the foreigners shopping bible, superfuture.com.
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CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES
No matter what your style, you’ll find
what you’re looking for in Tokyo. We
do have our favourites, here are a
few: In Harajuku, check out Head
Porter, Beams T, Neighbourhood, APC
Underground, X-Large/X-Girl, Train,
Visvim, and brand new Omatesando
Hills. In Daikanyama, we recommend
Silas, Supreme, Styles, Heaven 27
and Stitch. In Aoyama, don’t miss the
amazing flagship stores of Prada and
Comme des Garcons and drop by
Loveless, Black Flag and Rocket. If
you can find it, Desperado in Shibuya
is an eclectic gem with a cult following
amongst the super cool locals.
Stocking beautiful quality clothing,
hats, shoes and jewellery, it sells labels
such as Jessica Ogden, Peter Jensen
and Australian label Rittenhouse.
BOOKS
Shopping for books in Tokyo is like
shopping for anything in Tokyo. They
have everything you ever knew you
wanted, and a million things you never
knew you wanted, from architecture to
graphic design, science fiction to high
fashion, and everything in between.
Shibuya is a good place to start and
has a great cross-section of stores
including Tower Records and Books,
Gas Books, ABC Books, and Logos (in
the basement of Parco 1, which also
has a great adjoining gallery).
MUJI, SEVERAL LOCATIONS
Though consumerism may be their
Achilles heel, the Japanese aren’t
slaves to high-priced materialism.
Quality takes precedence over price
tag, and people are judged not by
personal wealth but sense of style,
as evidenced by the widespread
popularity of cheap, high quality
brands like Muji and Uniqlo. Muji
sells top-notch basics at double
take inducing prices, everything from
clothing to stationery to furniture to
pushbikes (for $100!!). muji.net/eng
092
TOKYO, JAPAN
PLAY
TSUKIJI CENTRAL FISH MARKET
This gargantuan market is like a
small village unto itself, peddling
2500 tonnes of fish daily not just to
Tokyo’s citizens but their restaurants
as well. It’s a sensory overload of
sights, sounds, and motion. Get here
by 8AM before all the little fishies are
sold, and best visit before 2012 when
the market is meant to move to new
digs. There’s a nearby produce and
handcraft market as well.
TOKYO DOME
tokyo-dome.co.jp
Known by the locals as “The Big
Egg”, Japan’s first domed stadium
opened in 1988 and hosts year
round concerts, conventions, and
sporting events (local baseball team
the Yorimuri Giants are extremely
popular). The surrounding area
features The Baseball Hall Of Fame
And Museum, a hotel, restaurants,
shops, a bowling alley, and a fullfledged amusement park with a roller
coaster that travels through a nearby
skyscraper.
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KARAOKE - EVERYWHERE
Karaoke venues are littered all over
Tokyo, and are a cheap, fun way to
spend an evening. For an hourly
rate you get a room with couches,
a table, and a remote controlled TV
screen/karaoke machine. A wallmounted phone connects you to the
front desk to order more pitchers of
Asahi (which you’ll need). Special
flourishes in some rooms include
gaudy black light decorations, and
you’ll be astounded at the song
selection, from Beck to Bob Marley
to Ben Kweller.
YOYOGI PARK, HARAJUKU
One of the largest parks in Tokyo,
adjacent to Harajuku Station and
Shibuya’s Meiji Shrine, this is a
tranquil slice of nature amidst the
flashing lights and electrical hum
of the city. There are bike paths
and bike rentals, and the park is
a popular hangout on Sunday
mornings (the Harajuku entrance is
where the radically adorned cartoon
goths featured in Fruits congregate).
094
TOKYO, JAPAN
DIARY
LOCAL HERO
Mayumi Horiguchi has lived her whole life in Tokyo
and knows the city like the back of her expertly
painted nails. In between countless parties and late-night
karaoke sessions, she and husband Daisuke Kawasaki
publish Beikoku Ongaku, a cutting edge arts and culture
mag printed in Japanese and English. Her karaoke
favorites include The Specials and Nirvana. Here’s five of
her other favorites.
HIYOKO RECORDS,
SHIMOKITAZAWA
HONDO APARTMENT 1F, 3-26-6
KITAZAWA, SETAGAYA-KU TOKYO
155-0031
+81-3-3485-6009
[email protected]
Open 15:00 – 21:00; closed Wed
“Hiyoko” in English means “chick”
or “chicken”, which is just what the
owner Makoto’s girlfriend draws on
each record bag used at the store.
Makoto (aka MAKOTROON, his DJ
name) used to run Weekend Records
in Williamsburg Brooklyn. Theo Parish,
DJ Shadow, and Cut Chemist all
love Hiyoko Records and have spent
hours shopping for records there.
DESIGN FESTA
May & November
designfesta.com
Over 50,000 people attend this, the
largest international arts event in
Asia, held in spring and autumn at
the Tokyo International Exhibition
Center. Open to professionals and
non-professionals it features art and
design exhibits, live music, and more.
HANAMI (CHERRY
BLOSSOM VIEWING)
late March/early April
This is easily the most jubilant
celebration all year. After each cold,
drab winter, Tokyo bursts into vibrant
pink as millions of Cherry Blossoms
bloom. People congregate beneath
these beautiful and unique fauna,
drinking and rejoicing.
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SANJA MATSURI
May
Matsuris, or “festivals”, occur
regularly throughout the Japanese
year. This particular event, Sanja
Matsuri, takes place at the Asakusa
Shrine in downtown where half
naked men and (clothed) women
carry mikoshi, or “portable shrines”,
through the temple grounds as the
crowd cheers.
KOYO (AUTUMN FOLIAGE)
mid-November/early December
Just as the cherry blossoms herald
the beginning of spring, each autumn
the leaves around Tokyo burst into
vibrant reds, oranges, and yellows,
signifying the end of a hot Tokyo
summer. There is a small window
of opportunity between when these
leaves change and when they drop
off – if you catch it, enjoy.
GANJITSU (NEW YEAR’S DAY)
Amazing to think that this insane
metropolis actually shuts down
for three days at New Years, but
apparently it does.
UNIT, DAIKANYAMA
ZA HOUSE BUILDING, 1-34-17
EBISU-NISHI, SHIBUYA-KU TOKYO
150-0021
unit-tokyo.com
This has three stories containing
a separate dance club, bar, and
café/lounge (open for lunch to late
night dinner). Promoters can rent
out the entire venue for events, and
people like Stussy and Chicks On
Speed have thrown parties here.
Their website lists upcoming events
in English also.
JET SET RECORDS,
SHIMOKITAZAWA
2-2-3-1F &2F KITAZAWA,
SETAGAYA-KU TOKYO 155-0031
+81-3-5433-3883
Open 365DAYS 14:00-22:30
jetsetrecords.net
Another great record store in the
Shimokita area, this Tokyo outlet
of Jet Set Records has been open
since 2002. A cozy two-storey shop
with friendly staff and sharp design,
you could browse for hours here.
They carry indie pop, breakbeats,
underground hip-hop, electronica,
techno, abstract, and more.
HALLELUJAH, OKUBO
1-5-6 HYAKUNIN CHO,
SHINJUKU-KU TOKYO
+81-3-3200-0112
hallelujah.gr.jp
A Korean Restaurant in Koreatown,
located in “Multicultural City” Okubo,
near Shokuan-dori Street (which is
full of signs with Korean writing). This
street makes you feel like you’ve
stepped into a town in South Korea.
It used to feel like a buffer zone
separating Kabuki-cho to the south
(the business district) from the Okubo
and Hyakunin-cho areas to the
north (the residential district), but in
recent years it has become a popular
commercial district in its own right.
The shops have also expanded.
MOMINOKI HOUSE, HARAJUKU
2-18-5 JINGUMAE, SHIBUYA-KU
TOKYO
+81-3-3405-9144
[email protected]
Open 7 days 11am - 11pm (Last
order 10:30pm)
www2.odn.ne.jp/mominoki_house
This natural food restaurant is not
only good for vegetarians but also
vegans. It is quite hard for vegans
to find a place to eat in Tokyo - but
here’s their place! Famous musicians
such as Stevie Wonder and Eric
Clapton are fond of this restaurant.
They use organic foods and
ingredients as well as electronically
ionized water in all their dishes.
096
TOKYO, JAPAN
READ / WATCH / LISTEN
THE FACTS
THANKS TO STA TRAVEL
LOCATION
Tokyo is located on the mid-eastern
part of Honshu, Japan’s largest
island. It is bounded on the
southeast by Tokyo Bay which, in
turn, opens into the Pacific Ocean.
WATCH
Densha Otoko, or “Train Man”, is
the true story of an otoko who finds
love on a Tokyo subway. A huge
hit that spawned a manga comic
and TV series, many critics have
echoed one reviewer’s comment
that it’s, “one of the most authentic
views of Japanese city life I’ve ever
come across”. Other good flicks
to get you in the mood for the
city are Lost In Translation, whose
dreamy cinematography and moody
atmospherics do Tokyo justice,
and Kill Bill.
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READ
For magazines, pick up OK Fred,
Relax, Beikoku Ongaku, Quest
(free arts & music mag available at
place like X-Large and Beams) and
Metropolis, “Japan’s No. 1 English
Magazine” as the cover claims, free
around town at Tower Records or
online at metropolis.co.jp. Other
good websites are superfuture.com,
“Yes! Tokyo” Tokyo Convention &
Visitors Bureau, www.tcvb.or.jp, or
read one of celebrated Japanese
author Haruku Murakami’s novels,
which are bestsellers all over the
world (Kafka On The Shore is his
most recent; Norwegian Wood and
The Wind-Up Bird Chronicles his
most popular).
LISTEN
Instrumental moody-andmoodswinging Mono sound like
a refined version of Mogwai, and
produce a chaotic yet precise sound
that sums up their city well. Other
Japanese noisemakers to psych
you up include The Boredoms, Acid
Mothers Temple, and Ghost, who
rumour has it have lived in run
down temples and disused subway
stations around Tokyo. For more
lighthearted trippy Tokyo sounds, try
Cornelius, Pizzicato Five, Fantastic
Plastic Machine, and newbie My
Bloody Valentine protégés Guitar.
And there’s always “the Japanese
Ramones”, Guitarwolf.
WILFRED BRANDT IS A
WRITER AND AMERICAN
EXPAT LIVING IN SYDNEY.
HE TOTALLY LOVES
IT THERE.
PAPERPLANE WOULD LIKE TO
THANK JAPAN AIRLINES FOR
THEIR ASSISTANCE. JAL NOW
HAS 35 FLIGHTS PER WEEK FROM
AUSTRALIA TO TOKYO AND OSAKA.
JAL.COM
LANGUAGE
Japanese
CURRENCY
Yen, $1 AUD = approximately 87 Yen
COST OF ITEMS AUD
Cup of coffee $3.50
Train ticket $2.00
Standard Meal $18.00
Bottle of Asahi $4.00
JAPAN RAIL - JR NETWORK
The JR network is extensive, as
one would expect from what used
to be the national rail system (now
privately owned). If you have a JR
Pass, you will almost certainly figure
out that even in large cities such as
Tokyo or Osaka, there is a JR station
fairly near where you want to go. In
the countryside JR also runs bus
services to connect places that don’t
have a rail service. Although JR is the
largest operator, there are other rail
networks worth checking out.
APPROXIMATE AIRFARES
STA Travel offers regular flights to
Tokyo from all Australian capital cities.
Return fares start at $999 plus $300
in taxes ex SYD/BNE.
TRANSPORTATION
The best way to get around Japan is
via the Japan Rail Network. Japan’s
railways are fast, highly efficient and
cover the majority of the country.
OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION
Aus/NZ passport holders do not
require a visa for up to 90 days for
tourist or business visits. Those who
require visas must apply in person.
Cold hard yen is the way to pay
in Japan. While credit cards are
becoming more common, cash
is still used much more widely
and travellers cheques are rarely
accepted. ATMs are extremely
common in Tokyo but some of them
do not accept foreign-issued cards
- even if they display the Visa/
MasterCard sign. An alternative is
to use ATMs at Post Offices as most
often these accept foreign-issued
cards.
Japan has a 5% consumer tax,
though if you eat at expensive
restaurants and stay at top hotels
you can encounter a service charge
that varies from 10-15%.
Tap water is safe to drink all over
Japan, and due to high levels of
hygiene in Japan, food rarely causes
any health problems.
CLIMATE/BEST TIME TO GO
Japanese are proud of their four
seasons, but the discerning
tourist should try to aim for two of
them. Spring is probably the best
time of year to be in Japan. The
temperatures are warm but not hot,
there’s not too much rain, and MarchApril brings the justly famous cherry
blossoms and is a time of revelry and
festivals. Just watch out for Golden
Week (April 27 to May 6), the longest
holiday of the year, when everybody
travels and everything is booked full.
WORK IN JAPAN
STA Travel has teamed up with
DaiJob to provide a free service that
gives young professionals a platform
to seek work in Japan. With more
jobs for bilinguals listed than any
other site in Japan, most industries
are covered – including jobs in
Hospitality, IT, Marketing/Advertising/
PR, Consumer Products, Finance.
Daijob is a free online service.
Most jobs will require a tertiary
qualification and relevant work
experience. See your STA
Travel adviser for details or
visit ‘Work in Japan’ section
at statravel.com.au/livelearn