sundance buttress - Earthbound Sports, Inc.

LUMPY RIDGE
117
4 Rain Maker 5.8
Locate a large tree growing next to the upper left side of the west face, one rope
length left of Chimney Sweep. Climb triple cracks (with bushes) to a ledge, then
stay right of a red roof on the second pitch. FA: Larry Bruce and Molly Higgins,
1976.
5 Shake-en-Flakes 5.9
This route is on the unnamed, 200 foot red spire west of The Parish. Follow a wide
crack on the right side of the spire, escape it at a flake leaning left, then take a steep
crack to a belay. Stay left of the wide crack on the second pitch. As the name
suggests (and Snively confesses), this route is a choss pile. FA: Doug Snively and
Kimball, 1976.
6 Boulder Dike 5.8
Three rocks sit at the base of Sundance Needle; they are Needles One, Two and
Three. Boulder Dike climbs the west face of Needle Two via the obvious leftleaning weakness.
7 Cross Stitch 5.7
This route wanders up the long ridge of Sundance Needle. Start fifty feet left of the
low point at a vegetated slot. Follow the slot to a dihedral and a belay (120 feet).
Two short pitches of 5.6 cracks lead to the summit tower, which is won via a 5.7
crack. Descend north along a 4th class ridge. FA: Bob Bradley and Norman Harthill,
1964.
SUNDANCE BUTTRESS
Sundance Buttress, the largest sub-alpine cliff in the region, soars high above the
valley floor at the western end of Lumpy Ridge. The approaching climber sees
only the rounded nose of Turnkorner Buttress, which curves back to the west and
hides the extensive girth that Sundance possesses. A great variety of routes wind
up the towering walls of this marvelous vertical playground. Though a long approach is required to reach the rock, fantastic mountain views and superb climbing
offset the arduous hike.
Sundance Buttress is neatly divided into four noticeably different sections. The
Northeast Slabs make up the right side of the rock and face the Sundance Cathedrals. Turnkorner Buttress is the rounded, southeast nose of Sundance that houses
a famous route of the same name. The steep wall left of Turnkorner Buttress is
marked by a hanging blade in an inset box, which lies in the center of the face.
This is the Guillotine Wall. The left edge of Guillotine Wall drops away into an
enormous, left-facing dihedral (Eumenides) and the expansive face west of this is
called Eumenides Slab.
Approach: Hike for two miles on the Black Canyon trail, passing underneath the
entire western half of Lumpy Ridge. A small cairn marks the turnoff for the climbers’ trail, which meanders up the steep, wooded slope below Sundance Buttress
and ends near a huge flake leaning against Turnkorner Buttress. Allow at least an
hour for the approach. Almost all of the climbs are grade IIIs, so it’s not unusual to
be caught in an afternoon storm high on the wall — bring rain gear.
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Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climber's Guide
Descent: The standard descent from the summit ridge involves a 4th class down
climb on the northeast side, followed by tedious scrambling in the eastern gully
below the Northeast Slabs. Two options are available for the down climb. The first
begins in the large saddle behind (west of) Turnkorner Buttress and follows short
steps and ledges to the north, arriving in the gully after three hundred feet. The
second is longer but easier: It begins just before the summit of Sundance (opposite Eumenides Slab) and follows low-angled corners to the gully. Both of these
descents are made safer by rigging rappels off any of several trees — this is recommended in winter as the slabs usually hold snow. A third descent (which avoids the
technical difficulties) follows the ridge top all the way to Sundance West (the sizable wall left of Sundance) and then drops down a south-facing ravine. The choice
of descent is largely dictated by the route climbed. Most climbers use the saddle
descent for routes right of Grapevine, traversing into it on relatively easy ground.
The upper descent is standard for lines on Eumenides Slab. The last descent is
rarely used due to its length, though it’s handy for parties leaving gear at the base
of the western routes.
Routes are described from right to left, beginning on the Northeast Slabs and ending at Eumenides Slab.
Northeast Slabs
The Northeast Slabs form a 700 foot wall above the eastern descent gully. In rough
terms they extend from the saddle descent line on the right to the left edge of the
Dalke-Covington Flake, a huge 300 foot pillar on the east edge of Turnkorner
Buttress.
1 In the Rough 5.8 This is the rightmost line on Sundance. Begin 100 feet uphill from Plumb Line
right of a twenty foot inset. 1. Go up a mellow slab and head right to a belay tree.
2. Angle right along a short 5.7 ramp to a piton belay. 3. Climb a dead-end crack
and friction up past a spike (5.8). Belay on a grassy ramp. 4. Follow the ramp up
right. A 5.7 lieback up a left-facing flake ends at a big ledge with a large tree. 5.
Traverse right to the saddle descent. FA: Scott Kimball and Michael Covington,
1977.
2 Plumb Line 5.9 An enjoyable line runs more or less straight up the slabs left of a group of black
water streaks. Begin at the outside corner of a huge block that drops down from the
right side of a low roof band. This is about 100 feet uphill from the very prominent
Covert Action chimney and near a tall tree. 1. Edge up the corner on pretty rock
(5.6), tie off a knob, and step left above the roof band (exciting 5.8-). Lead up to a
dead tree with rappel slings and belay here or ten feet to the right (better). 2. Step
right into a left-facing flake and follow it for a full pitch, 5.9. Go left at a little
crystalline band to the belay. 3. Lead over the right side of a bulging blob and
continue along knobby 5.6 rock. Go back left to a bushy belay ledge below a short,
roof-capped, right facing dihedral. 4. Advance toward the overhang but escape left
at a flake. Go back right above the roof and enter a long right-facing corner. Chimney up to crux jams and stretch the rope out to a belay tree. 5. Go easily to the
summit. FA: Jim Pettigrew and Michael Covington, 1976.
LUMPY RIDGE
119
3 Lichentology 5.9+
This is the crusty, white, right-facing dihedral that hangs thirty feet right of Covert
Action. Climb into the corner with slab pitch (5.9 at a bulge) and lieback the
dihedral, turning the roof on the right (crux). Scramble down and right on ledges
to reach a rappel tree left of the first belay on Plumb Line (two ropes). FA: Kimball
and Greg Child, 1979.
4 Covert Action 5.8 Covert Action takes the right-facing chimney starting 100 feet above the descent
gully in the middle of the Dalke-Covington Flake. 1. Climb to the chimney along
pleasant 5.6 slabs. 2. Grunt up the corner, moving left to the top of the flake.
Follow Dalke-Covington. FA: Billy Westbay and Covington, 1974.
5 Jet Stream 5.10c A wide slab sits near the low point of Sundance Buttress. Look for a single bolt
(Indian Burn) in its center. 1. Begin at a tiny crack on the right edge of the slab,
just left of a dirty gully. Face climb left along the crack and continue left to a
sharper crack. Belay on a big ledge. 2. Take an easy crack off the right end of the
ledge to another ledge. 3. Go to the left side of the Dalke-Covington Flake and
edge along the arete for a long pitch, 5.9. 4. Easier ground (5.7) heads to the top of
the flake. Descend as with Lichentology (with more difficult down climbing) or
continue up Dalke-Covington. FA: Kimball and Carl Harrison, 1980.
6 Indian Burn 5.10d R
This route crosses over Jet Stream searching for new ground. 1. Climb to the bolt
in the middle of the slab and go the big ledge, staying left of Jet Stream, 5.10c R.
2. Climb 5.8 rock left of Jet Stream’s easy crack to the second ledge. 3. Scale the
steep, crusty cracks right of the arete (5.10b). Face climb past the end of the cracks
(crux) to the belay on Jet Stream. Follow that route. FA: Jack Roberts and Bret
Ruckman, 1988.
7 Dalke-Covington 5.8
Take the gully system bordering the Dalke-Covington Flake on the left (two long
pitches or more, 5.6). Stray left from the top of the flake to a wide, 5.8 crack that
ends on the big ledge cutting across Turnkorner Buttress (see below). The last two
pitches begin at a left-angling crack (5.7) and then follow moderate terrain to the
top. FA: Larry Dalke and Michael Covington, 1965.
Turnkorner Buttress
Turnkorner Buttress encompasses the cone-shaped east end of Sundance, beginning left of the Dalke-Covington Flake and ending at a deep chimney line (Banana Peels). It hosts a handful of difficult aid lines and several excellent free
climbs.
Two big flakes (the right one is huge) at the bottom of the wall provide good
reference points as well as shelter from storms. The big ledge 300 feet below the
summit of the buttress is another feature of which to be aware. The first nine routes
cross this ledge (as do the last four climbs on the Northeast Slabs if they are taken
to the top), and from here, there are several options leading to the saddle behind
the buttress (see topo). It is also possible to rappel from the far right side of the
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Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climber's Guide
SUNDANCE BUTTRESS
Northeast Slabs
The Saddle
7
1
2
4
11
9
5
THUNDER
BUTTRESS
LUMPY RIDGE
SUNDANCE BUTTRESS - Northeast Slabs
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
In the Rough 5.8 Plumb Line 5.9 Lichentology 5.9+
Covert Action 5.8 Jet Stream 5.10c Indian Burn 5.10d R
Dalke-Covington 5.8
Curve Grande 5.7 A4
The Nose 5.10b R- Firebird 5.9 A4
Idiot Wind 5.10b The Saddle
Saddle
descent
4th
class
5.9
see Turnkorner
Buttress topo
5.7
4th
class
join Saddle
descent
5.7
165'
5.7
bulging
blob
7
5.6
5.8
5.8
8
10
.10a
xx LB
5.9 x
.8
R
x
5.9 x x
11
xx
A3
down
climb
to tree
5.8
9
A3
5.8
5.6
A4
8
.10b
.9+
xx
5.9+
.10d
10
xx
5.9
arete
5.9
DalkeCovington
Flake
11
Turnkorner
Buttress
5.5
165'
6
5.10b
1
5.8
chim
5.8descent
gully
5.9
bulge
5.6
gully
7
9
.8
2
5.6
5.9
3
5.9
10
5.9
raised
pillar 5.10c
R
giant
flake
water
streaks
5.9
x
.10c
11
6
5
4
121
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Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climber's Guide
ledge. A long double-rope rappel from slings ends near the top of the DalkeCovington Flake. Down climb 5.0 rock to the ledge extending left from the first
belay on Plumbline, and then rappel from a tree (two ropes) to reach the descent
gully.
8 Curve Grande 5.7 A4
Begin with two leads up Dalke-Covington but stop before reaching the top of the
flake. Angle left to a left-curving flake and nail through an overlap to the fourth
belay on The Nose. Climb that route for a short piece, aid left, and pendulum left
to the final roof on Firebird. FA: Steve Shea and Dick Jimmerson, 1969.
9 The Nose 5.10b R- Loaded with exciting and exposed face climbing, The Nose seeks a line up the
right-hand edge of Turnkorner Buttress. Start at the left side of the Dalke-Covington
Flake. 1. Climb Dalke-Covington for fifty feet, then break left and jam the right
side of a raised pillar, strenuous 5.9 (and a long pitch). 2. Go up to a right-facing
flake and lieback to its top. Edge out left to a wide crack and belay at a stance with
bolts. 3. Climb a crack and traverse left to the very edge of the huge ceiling band.
Step left out of a little corner and face climb straight up to an exposed stance, 5.9+.
4. Go up to a thin slash shooting left across a bulge and lead through (crux) to a
slab. Run out 5.8 face leads right to a groove. Belay at a pin and bolt. 5. Climb the
groove to the right edge of the upper roof band and step right (5.8), then take a
crack to the big ledge. 6 and 7. Continue low angled rock to the rounded summit of
the buttress (300+ feet). FA: Filip Sokol, Dick Erb and Jock Jacoba, 1970.
FFA: Duncan Ferguson and Chris Reveley, 1973. The third and fourth pitches
feature marginal protection in several sections, with an old fixed copperhead at the
crux. Variations: The first pitch of Firebird is often used as an alternate start
(5.9). On pitch 2, one can step right from the right-facing flake to an intermittent
hand crack. Friction left from the top of the crack to reach the second belay, enervating 5.9.
10 Firebird 5.9 A4
Start just left of the Dalke-Covington Flake at a short crack leading into a leftleaning flake. 1. Climb to the flake and follow it left (5.9) to the dihedral on the left
edge of a raised pillar, 5.9. Jam to the top of the pillar, 5.8. 2. Face climb up left
(5.7 R) to an open book, and belay at the base of the left-facing dihedral that drops
down from the right edge of the big ceiling band. 3. Aid up the dihedral and arc out
(A2 or A4, with a pendulum?) to a zigzag crack that cuts through the roof. 4. Nail
the roof (wild A3) to a bolt belay over the lip. These two pitches are short and
could be combined with good rope management. 5. Friction right and aid through
the middle of the upper roof (A3) to a groove. Belay at a convenient spot in the
groove. 6 and 7. Easy free climbing leads to the big ledge and the top of the buttress. FA: Larry Dalke and Cliff Jennings, 1967.
LUMPY RIDGE
123
11 Idiot Wind 5.10b This is one of the finest routes on Lumpy Ridge, a wild climb with incredible
exposure. Empty your bladder before leading the crux pitches. Begin at a thin
crack left of Firebird. 1. Take the crack for forty feet and move right when it dies
(5.9+ R) to join Firebird. The run out climbing can be avoided by following
Firebird for the entire pitch. 2. Face climb up left (5.7 R) to an open book dihedral
(same as Firebird), then escape right at a short crack leading to the second belay
on The Nose. 3. Follow The Nose to the edge of the huge ceiling band, but keep
traversing left (instead of moving straight up) past two bolts to the bolt belay on
Firebird (heart-stopping exposure, 5.10b). 4. Take a short crack up right, then
make a rising traverse left above the lip of the roof (four bolts, 5.9) to a short crack.
Jam the crack (5.9) to a fixed pin and bolt at the left edge of the upper roof. This is
the hanging belay anchor used on the first ascent, but it is better to continue over
the roof (5.10a lieback, nice position) to a good ledge thirty feet higher. Your bladder should be empty at this point (whether you followed the advice given above or
not). 5. A 5.8 crack on the right goes to the big ledge that traverses across the
buttress. Easy climbing finds the top. FA: Ed Webster and Pete Athans, 1986.
12 Precipitation 5.8 A3
Start just right of the big flake leaning against the wall below two cracks. 1. Climb
the right crack for forty feet (5.8+), step over to the left crack, and jam through a
steep bulge (5.9-). Move right to the base of a long, left-leaning, left-facing dihedral (the left-hand and smaller of two such dihedrals). 2. Ascend the left dihedral
(5.8) to a belay above a big wedged flake. 3. Nail over a small roof, A2, then move
right to a thin crack (free?) leading to the hanging belay below the zigzag roof
crack mentioned in Firebird. 4. Do Firebird’s fourth lead (add this to the previous pitch if desired). 5. Traverse right (5.8 R) to join The Nose. FA: Layton Kor,
Tom Fender and Joe O’Laughlin, 1964.
13 Under the Big Top 5.10b Under the Big Top provides an interesting, indirect start to Turnkorner. 1. Do the
first pitch of Precipitation through the steep bulge, and continue straight up into a
short stemming corner. Belay at a stance just above the corner. 2. A delicate traverse
to the left gains a right-facing flake. Undercling the flake (5.9), then follow an
easy wide crack with several grassy stances. Traverse left out of the crack below
Precipitation’s wedged flake (5.8 R) or above it (5.7 R) to a stance at the lip of an
apexed roof (shared with Icarus) and at the base of a steep crack. 3. Jam the crack
to its end, 5.9, and step left to a rotten, left-leaning corner. Proceed to Turnkorner’s
sloping ledge, and set up a hanging belay on its left end (by the old bolt). The
original line avoided the rotten corner by utilizing Icarus’ third belay, but this
requires another short pitch. 4. Follow Turnkorner (with a 200 foot rope, one can
link both of its crux sections for a nice, continuous pitch). Bring at least two #4
Friends or Camalots for the second pitch and the final pitches of Turnkorner.
FA: Scott Kimball and Carl Harrison, 1980.
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Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climber's Guide
SUNDANCE BUTTRESS
Turnkorner Buttress
11
8
20
10
21
23
19
18
17
15
14
13
7
11
10
LUMPY RIDGE
125
SUNDANCE - Turnkorner Buttress
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
Dalke-Covington 5.8
Curve Grande 5.7 A4
The Nose 5.10b R- Firebird 5.9 A4
Idiot Wind 5.10b 4th class
decent
The Saddle
5.9
5.6
5.6
165'
Precipitation 5.8 A3
Under the Big Top 5.10b Icarus 5.11d R
Turnkorner 5.10b Turnkorner Direct 5.10b R Laura Scudders 5.10d R Mr. President 5.10d Bonzo 5.10b Chain of Command 5.11a Banana Peels 5.8
Great Roof Bypass 5.8+
Kor's Flake 5.7+ Hypo-Rok 5.9 Bushes 5.8 18
big shelf
5.10c crack
on wall
17
5.8
18
23
22
11
15
x
.11a
x
20
5.9 x
x .9 17
Kor's
Flake
5.10d R
xx
x
x 85'
5.8
5.11c
OW
.10a
OW
40'
24
25
9
5.9
xx
.10a
xx
5.11d
14
A3
x x 5.9
x
5.9 x
x
.10c R
5.10b
xxx pins
x
.8 R
.10b
R-
x
5.9
OW
xx
x
x x
5.9+
5.10c
5.9
x
x
x x 90'
chim
5.10d
x 5.10b
x
12
A2
13
20'
from
horn
7
x
.7 R
.9+
14
5.7
R
.8 R
.7
12
5.9
5.10a
5.8
5.9
16
5.9
5.9
11
5.9
(?)
19
Guillotine Wall
xx
10
.9
21
9
A4
x
5.9+
R
17
8
.10b
x
x
A4
xx
A3
5.10
x
aid
x
13 5.9
x 5.11d
x
x
5.8+
5.8
10 pillar
x
18
DalkeCovington
Flake
5.9
5.9 5.9
R
huge
flake
9
5.9.9
15
5.9+
5.10
R
(behind
flake)
14
5.8+
.9+
R
11
10
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Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climber's Guide
14 Icarus 5.11d R
Icarus frees part of an aid route called Big Flake (which traversed right after pitch
2 to join Precipitation, 5.9 A3), and then continues straight up through the large
roof right of Turnkorner. Start in the cave behind the big flake. 1. Link together
several tiny cracks on the left and belay on top of the flake, 5.10 (R?). 2. Climb
along an old bolt ladder (5.11d) to a left-facing corner that ends at an obvious
apexed roof, and pop over the roof (5.9+) to a stance at the base of a crack. 3.
Climb the crack described in Under the Big Top’s third pitch, and continue straight
up to three old pitons at the base of a right-facing dihedral (part of another old aid
route?). 4. Go up the dihedral and over a roof (bolt), then traverse right to a huge
leaning ceiling, 5.10 R. Work along its base (5.11d) to a hanging belay at two
bolts. 5. Jam the ceiling at a wide crack (5.11c) and belay — a short pitch. 6.
Continue along the wide crack to its end (5.7), then traverse left to Turnkorner.
Bring gear to a #5 Camalot. FFA: Jeff Lowe and Sandy East, 1980, without the
bolt on pitch 4. Variations: The original start to Big Flake climbs the short dihedral on the outside right edge of the flake, now free at 5.9+ R (FA: Jeff Lowe and
Charlie Fowler). On the second pitch, one can traverse left from the first bolt (5.10)
to a flake, and then go back right to the base of the corner.
15 Turnkorner 5.10b The quintessential crack climbing test piece of this grade at Lumpy Ridge.
Turnkorner takes a continuous system through the left end of the big ceiling band.
Start at a flared dihedral left of the big flake. 1. Jam and stem the corner to a good
ledge, 5.9. 2. Take the hand crack on the left to a belay on blocks at one old bolt,
5.9. 3. Face climb along a thin corner to a sloping ledge with an old bolt (5.9).
Fight out an overhanging jam crack off the left side of the ledge (5.10b). Stretch
the rope out through an offwidth section (5.9, old bolt) to a hanging stance below
the roof. 4. Turn the roof (wide 5.10a) and jam a long, deep flare (strenuous 5.9).
Move up and right at its end to a good stance in another flared crack. 5. Go easily
to the big ledge 300 feet below the summit and pick a finish (see topo). Rack up to
a #4 Camalot (doubles in bigger sizes), and save a big cam for leap frogging between smaller placements on pitch 4. FA: Layton Kor and Jack Turner, 1962.
FFA: Royal Robbins and Bob Boucher, 1964.
16 Turnkorner Direct 5.10b R This poorly named variation affords another indirect start to Turnkorner. 1. Climb
the easy left side of the smaller flake leaning against the wall. Pull onto the wall
from the right side of the flake at a jug (5.9 R) and angle left to a belay. 2. Go up a
right-facing crack and waver right on thin 5.9. Pass a ledge and stretch the rope out
to the blocky second belay on Turnkorner. It may be possible to reach the ledge in
the middle of pitch 2 with a long pitch from the ground. FA: Ray Jardine, George
Hurley and Chris Walker, 1969. FFA: Scott Woodruff, Mike Gilbert and Dan Hare,
1974.
17 Laura Scudders 5.10d R The thin, potato chip flakes found on the third pitch give rise to the name of this
exciting line. Do the first two leads on Turnkorner Direct but stop at the first
ledge (possibly one long lead from the ground). 3. Work up and left via thin cracks
LUMPY RIDGE
127
Jerry Hill climbing Chain of Command, Sundance Buttress.
128
Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climber's Guide
and flakes to the second belay of Mr. President, 5.9+. 4. Do the right-hand of two
parallel cracks (5.10d, hard to protect). 5. The original line joined Mr. President
here, but a better version takes the thin crack across the west-facing wall of the big
dihedral, 5.10c. 6. Join Turnkorner’s easy finish. FA: Jeff Lowe and Charlie Fowler,
1979. FA of fifth pitch variation: Jim Brink and Paul Hayliger, 1983.
18 Mr. President 5.10d Mr. President takes a direct line to the saddle beginning at a wide, right-facing,
flared crack. 1. Climb the crack with stems and jams, 5.9. 2. Continue the line as it
bends right to a thin crux. Switch left along short, steep cracks to a belay perch
below two parallel cracks. 3. Jam the left crack, 5.9+. 4 and 5. Easy ground finds
the saddle. FA: Layton Kor and Steve Komito, early 1960s. FFA: Jeff Lowe and
Ron Matous, 1979. The low roof right of Mr. President holds an apparent aid line
with a bolt. Another bolt above the roof presumably leads to the thin crack parallel
to Mr. President’s first lead. Join that route (?).
19 Bonzo 5.10b Bonzo ascends the hanging dihedral left of Mr. President. Traverse in from the
left (dicey 5.9) and jam the strenuous corner to a two-bolt belay. Rappel left into
the bottom of Banana Peels’ chimney (a long, one-rope rappel) and down climb,
or rappel 20 feet from a horn. Better yet, continue up Chain of Command.
FA: Scott Kimball and Al Rubin, 1983.
20 Chain of Command 5.11a Some of the bolts on this route may have been chopped. 1. Clip four bolts on the
outside edge of Bonzo’s dihedral (or climb Bonzo if no bolts are found). 2. Angle
left to the edge of Turnkorner Buttress and face climb past six bolts, 5.10c. Traverse
right to two-bolt belay on a cramped ledge. 3. Climb past two more bolts, 5.11a.
This is a short pitch; pitches 2 and 3 can be done as one lead with long runners.
Rappel the route or go to the saddle. Bring a light rack to two inches for the first
three pitches. FA: Randy Farris and Mike Caldwell, 1987.
21 Banana Peels 5.8
The dividing line between Turnkorner Buttress and Guillotine Wall. Start in an
obvious, parallel-sided chimney and follow the same system all the way to the
saddle. Four pitches. FA: Mike Neri and Jim Heiden, 1976.
Guillotine Wall
Featuring compact rock and titillating lines, the Guillotine Wall is the most climbed
section of Sundance Buttress. The path along the base of the wall moves up a level
from Turnkorner Buttress around a big block, the starting point for the next two
routes.
22 Great Roof Bypass 5.8+
Do the first two leads of Kor’s Flake. 3. Follow a dirty dihedral right (5.8) and aim
for a big roof. 4. Turn the roof on the right (5.8+) and go to the saddle. FA: Bob
Culp and Tom Haig, early 1960s. FFA: Jim Erickson and Luke Studer, 1973.
LUMPY RIDGE
129
23 Kor’s Flake 5.7+ Diverse climbing and frightening exposure combine on Kor’s Flake to produce
one of the finest 5.7 climbs of the area. The route begins in the short chimney
above a block fifty feet left of Banana Peels and follows a long, leaning flake 200
feet above. 1. Go up the chimney (the ground drops away to the right here) and
follow 5.6 rock to a good ledge at the bottom of a long, left-leaning ramp. 2.
Follow the ramp (the bottom portion of Kor’s Flake), 5.7+. A medium length pitch
is recommended, as a good belay stance is hard to find higher up. 3. Continue with
the flake, which turns to a 5.7 squeeze (mildly run out). Belay beyond the end of
the flake. 4. Work left into a group of small dihedrals and cross these left to a hand
crack, 5.7. Follow the crack to a piton belay. 5. Climb to an overhang and turn it on
the left, 5.7. Easy rock leads to the saddle. FA: Layton Kor and partner, late 1950s.
24 Hypo-Rok 5.9 This variation to Bushes climbs the underside of Kor’s Flake. Climb Bushes for a
pitch and traverse right on a grassy ledge. Go up a thin crack and offwidth up the
flake, 5.9. Step left back into Bushes and finish up that. Bring a five-inch piece.
FA: Chip Salaun and Aaron Walters, 1977.
25 Bushes 5.8 1. Climb the large, right-facing, open book dihedral past several bushes fifty feet
left of Kor’s Flake to a grassy ledge, 5.8. 2. Go up a right-facing dihedral for fifty
feet and angle right on 5.8 face to another right-facing corner. Belay soon after
Hypo-Rok joins this route. 3. Follow the dihedral (5.7), which leans left to become a ramp. Share Guillotine’s fourth belay. 4. Climb a deep groove to the saddle.
26 Guillotine 5.10c A solitary, thin crack shoots up the wall a few paces left of Bushes. 1. Jam the tips
crack (crux just off the ground) all the way to a good stance near rappel slings on
a horn. 2. Continue the system to a better ledge in an inset (the Bay Window), 5.7.
3. Step right to a fixed pin in an exposed crack. Jam the crack (5.9) and take a thin
crack up to a belay below the huge hanging flake (the Guillotine blade). 4. Work
right to the hanging chimney behind the blade, exciting 5.7. Belay up and right. 5.
Climb a deep groove to the saddle (the last pitch of Bushes). FA: Jim Disney and
Dean Moore, 1962. FFA: Pete Robinson and John Bryant, 1964. Variation: A
three-pitch variation takes the wide crack out the left side of the Bay Window (5.8)
and stays left of the Guillotine; see topo.
27 Whiteman 5.11c A slender, 300 foot pillar borders Guillotine on the left; its upper left edge is
marked by a leaning dihedral that switches from right-facing to left-facing. The
outside face of the pillar used to hold an excellent bolt route (Bosch Cassidy and
the Sundance Kid, 5.12a ), but it was chopped. 1. Climb into thin, left-facing
flakes that end just before reaching the dihedral, 5.10d with exciting protection.
Step left (two old bolts, 5.11c) to a belay at a single old bolt (back it up with tiny
wires). 2. Ascend the dihedral to the pillar’s top, 5.11b. 3-5. Thirty feet of easier
climbing joins the three-pitch variation on Guillotine. The belay atop pitch 1 is
130
Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climber's Guide
SUNDANCE BUTTRESS
Guillotine Wall
The Saddle
22
34
32
31
29
27
26
25
23
18
LUMPY RIDGE
131
SUNDANCE BUTTRESS - Guillotine Wall
21.
22.
23.
24.
Banana Peels 5.8
Great Roof Bypass 5.8+
Kor's Flake 5.7+ Hypo-Rok 5.9 25.
26.
27.
28.
to top
250'
to top
Bushes 5.8 29. Mainliner 5.9- Guillotine 5.10c
30. Betwixt'em 5.9 Whiteman 5.11c
31. Sidetrack 5.9 Hardliner 5.11c R
32. Grapevine 5.8+ 34. Progression 5.10c to Saddle
5.9
4th class
descent
.8+
.8
5.3
5.9
.10a
The Saddle
5.7
34
32
5.7
31
5.7
5.6
5.9
5.9
5.9bulge
5.8
5.7
29
5.9
5.7
chim
blade
5.9stem
5.7
26
5.6
23
5.9 R
22
5.8
wide
var.
5.7
SQ
34
x
5.11b
5.9
5.6
chim
5.8
5.9
OW
5.8
x
.10d
5.10d
25
5.8
24
.8
.9huge
dihedral
.8
x
x
x
5.12a
5.9
5.11c
5.7+
85'
R
x
x x
5.11b
x
x var.
Eumenides Slab
30
5.8
lichen
5.11c R
5.8+
32
Kor's
Flake
.8 open
book
5.11a
x 5.10b
5.8
21
31
5.10c
29
28
27
26
5.6
5.8
25
23
132
Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climber's Guide
currently unsafe and should be rebolted; the protection bolts need replacement as
well. FFA: John Long and Lynn Hill, 1980. Variation: A more difficult start
called Redman (5.12a R) underclings the leaning corner on the left, intersecting
Whiteman at its crux. FA: Malcolm Daly and Randy Joseph, 1983.
28 Hardliner 5.11c R
Just left of Redman is a similar (but thinner) L-shaped flake. 1. Go to a fixed wire
and lieback the flake (5.10b). Run out 5.11c reaches the first of four bolts; climb
past the bolts (5.11b) to the base of a thin, right-facing corner. 2. Go up the corner
to a bolt (5.10d), down climb a few feet and step left around a flake. Go up the
flake a ways, step back right to the base of a huge, left-facing pillar and move left
to a belay. 3. Traverse left to Mainliner. The first ascent party notes that a direct
finish past the final bolt may go free (5.12?), thus avoiding the roving finish. FA: Jim
Beyer and Pat McInerney, 1990.
29 Mainliner 5.9- A superior outing, among the best at Lumpy Ridge. Start at an open book some
150 feet left of Guillotine. 1. Stem the open book, exquisite 5.8. 2. Angle up and
left out of the corner (5.8 face) to a fine ledge. 3. Lead to two opposing corners,
stem up (crux), and jam a steep crack (also 5.9-). Move right to a sloping ledge
beneath a big dihedral. 4. Take the dihedral (5.7) to easier ground. 5. Traverse right
to reach the saddle or continue up on easy terrain. FA: Michael Covington and
Wayne Goss, 1972.
30 Betwixt’em 5.9 Betwixt’em parallels Mainliner on the left for three pitches before joining Sidetrack. Start at the squat pillar left of Mainliner. 1. Mount the pillar and jam a
clean 5.9 crack. 2. Stay just left of Mainliner all the way to its second belay. 3.
Step left and ascend the cracks just left of Mainliner’s crux. Belay at a ledge and
then link up with Sidetrack. FA: Douglas Snively and Billy Westbay, 1982.
31 Sidetrack 5.9 Sidetrack vies with Mainliner for the best 5.9 on Sundance. 1. Scale a thin crack
left of Betwixt’em and face climb to a stance below a boxed-out slot. 2. Do the
slot on the left (5.9) and turn the roof to the left. 3. Follow a wide, 5.8 crack to a
ledge below and left of Mainliner’s second belay. 4. Move left to a groove that
curves back right and ends on a good ledge. 5. Fire straight up a thin crack (5.9)
into an A-shaped roof. Wild stemming and jamming surmounts the roof, 5.9. 6. Go
up (easy), or traverse right (as in Mainliner) to the saddle area. FA: Covington,
Westbay and Snively, 1975.
32 Grapevine 5.8+ Grapevine follows continuous cracks on the left side of the wall. Start below an
orange lichen streak around the corner from the huge Eumenides dihedral. 1.
Climb a short crack just above the ground (5.8+) and move into the groove right of
the lichen streak. Go up the groove to a ledge on the left. 2. Begin with a short fist
crack (5.8) on the left, then take the obvious chimney line to a big ledge on the left
(a long pitch), 5.6. 3. Step left to an easy crack (Progression exits out of the huge
dihedral here), then angle back right to a 5.8 crack system. The crack can be reached
LUMPY RIDGE
133
directly with a bit of unprotected 5.9; it leads to a nice ledge below a pronounced,
left-facing dihedral. 4. Jam up the dihedral, strenuous 5.8+, and belay on the higher
of two ledges on the right. 5. Continue for 250 feet of easier climbing. FA: Layton
Kor and Larry Dalke, 1965.
The next three routes ascend the west-facing plane of the huge dihedral that sections off Guillotine Wall from Eumenides Slab. A forty foot, 3rd class scramble
arrives at the base of the climbs.
33 Hurley-Neri 5.10a
Start by the tree on the right, forty feet above the ground. Take the rightmost line
on the wall of the dihedral for two pitches, encountering wide, crusty cracks (5.9)
and a short crux section (several 4-5 inch pieces) above a fixed Titon. The line
joins Progression just above its crux. FA: George Hurley and Mike Neri, 1976.
FFA: Mike Caldwell and Mick Scarpella, 1988.
34 Progression 5.10c This compelling line links a series of left-facing corners just left of Hurley-Neri.
1. Begin at Hurley-Neri but branch left in a superb 5.8 dihedral. Follow this up to
an exposed stance below a short, white corner. 2. Progress up the corner (crux) and
enter a hanging chimney. Pop onto Guillotine Wall at a big ledge, but continue up
to a higher ledge (sharing ground with Grapevine) below a left-facing dihedral. 3.
Face climb just left of the dihedral (5.9) to a stance. Continue straight up a bulging
wall (mildly run out 5.9) or move right into Grapevine and belay on its nice ledge.
4. Step left into a left-leaning dihedral. The dihedral forks a bit higher; the right
branch is 5.8- while the left branch goes at 5.10a. Pop over a little roof above the
left branch (5.9) and go right to low-angled rock. Two hundred feet of low 5th
class rock leads to the summit. FA: Doug Snively and Cito Kirkpatrick, 1980.
35 Slim Pickens 5.10a The next line left of Progression. Start below a large patch of orange lichen. 1. Get
into the crack right of the lichen and take it to a belay below a deep chimney, 5.8.
2. Go up the chimney (5.7+) and exit left. 3. Climb big knobs to a grassy ledge,
5.6. 4. Choose the middle of three left-facing corners (with a sharp edge), and
lieback past the crux. 5. Move left to a roof-topped dihedral and turn it on the
right, 5.8. Go easily to the top. FA: Chip Salaun and Scott Kimball, 1978.
Eumenides Slab
Eumenides climbs along the bottom of the huge dihedral on the left side of Guillotine Wall; the broad slab to the left goes by the same name. A number of good
lines cross the slab (as well as crossing each other, making for some confusing
descriptions), yet they don’t see much traffic. A long ledge crosses two-thirds of
the slab about a third of the way up; this is Limber Pine Ledge.
36 Eumenides 5.8 Eumenides starts in the dihedral, but most of the route lies on the slabs to the west.
Scramble up 3rd class rock until a rope is warranted. 1. Climb the dihedral for a
rope length (5.8), then friction left (5.7) to a ledge. 2. Stay 20 feet left of the
dihedral for another long pitch, 5.7. Cut right to a belay in the corner. 3. Angle
up left to an exposed stance, piecing together a corner and short cracks, 5.8.
134
Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climber's Guide
EUMENIDES SLAB - Detail
5.9
5.8
5.8-
5.8+
.10a
.10a
LB
34
32
35
5.8
headwall
5.9
5.9
34
5.6
knobs
5.9 R
5.7+
chim
35
5.8
chim
5.7
5.6
chim
.10a
OW
36
32
x
.10c
5.7
34
33
5.8
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
Grapevine 5.8+ Hurley-Neri 5.10a
Progression 5.10c Slim Pickens 5.10a Eumenides 5.8 5.8
36 .8
lichen
35
4th class
to here
LUMPY RIDGE
135
4. Step right, go up, then head left to the base of the next major left-facing dihedral
on the left (English Opening joins in midway up the pitch). 5. Take the corner to
the top. A roof halfway up the corner can be turned on the right (5.8 jams) or the
left (also 5.8). FA: George Hurley and Walter Fricke, 1970.
37 English Opening 5.9 Scramble up to an alcove and climb the long, left-facing corner 100 feet left of the
Eumenides dihedral all the way to the top. The first and third leads contain sections of 5.9. On the fourth pitch the corner leans left; escape right with a crack that
leads to Eumenides. The original fifth pitch goes up 5.8 R rock right of the final
corner, but Eumenides is a better choice. FA: George Hurley and Dave Carlson,
1971.
38 Dance, Dance, Dance 5.9 Locate the obvious left-facing dihedral that drops down from the far right side of
Limber Pine Ledge. 1. Climb a long slab to the base of the dihedral, 5.7. 2. Go to
Limber Pine Ledge via the corner, 5.8. 3. Traverse right off the end of the ledge
and ascend to the base of a 150 foot long, left-facing dihedral. This corner is one
corner left of English Opening but right of a group of leaning dihedrals. Go up a
bit, then move left along a slanting crack to a fine stance, 5.9. 4. Climb right to
English Opening and belay. 5. Escape right as with English Opening, and go to
Eumenides’ fourth belay. 6. Move left into a 5.8 crack and follow that. FA: Westbay
and Covington, 1973.
39 Adrenaline 5.9 R Although Adrenaline starts right of English Opening, it crosses both that route
and Dance, Dance, Dance, ending far to the left. It is the longest route on Sundance,
covering 800 feet or more. 1. Take the left-facing dihedral just right of English
Opening, 5.9. 2. Cross into English Opening and follow it for a piece, then head
left again to the right edge of Limber Pine Ledge, 5.7. 3. Climb into the 150 foot
corner mentioned in Dance, Dance, Dance. Where that route goes left, step right
and ascend the outside face of the corner, 5.9 R, and belay at its top. 4. Climb to a
grassy, left-facing flake and follow it to a belay, 5.8. 5. Dance, Dance, Dance goes
right from here to join English Opening, but Adrenaline begins its long journey
left with a short pitch. Go up a little flake, traverse left and down climb an arching,
thin crack (5.8) to gain an angling ramp system. 6. Go left on the ramp, 5.8. 7. Go
left again until reaching a nice left-facing corner. Ascend this to a wide flake followed by thin 5.9 face work. 8. Climb to the top. FA: John Marrs and Chris Anne
Crysdale, 1983.
40 Stormwatch 5.11a
This circuitous line begins at a big tree 150 feet off the ground between Dance,
Dance, Dance and Cajun Capers. Scramble to the tree with a 4th class ramp on
the left or climb directly to it, 5.6. Climb a left-facing corner to a long roof band
and turn the roof on the far right side, 5.8. Finish this long pitch at Limber Pine
Ledge. The rest of the route follows the general line of several leaning flakes that
lead toward a notch on the right side of a large roof band, where it joins Rain
Dance. FA: The first two pitches to Limber Pine Ledge had seen several ascents
prior to 1990. Pat McInerney and Jim Beyer pushed the route to the top in 1990.
136
Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climber's Guide
EUMENIDES SLAB
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
39.
40.
41.
42.
Grapevine 5.8+ Hurley-Neri 5.10a
Progression 5.10c Slim Pickens 5.10a Eumenides 5.8 English Opening 5.9 Dance, Dance, Dance 5.9
Adrenaline 5.9 R Storm Watch 5.11a
Rain Dance 5.11b R
Cajun Capers 5.7 easy
to top
5.9
.8
5.8
200'
to top
36
38
37
5.8
see detailed topo
39
double
roof
5.8
R
.8
35
5.8
ramp
up
corners
5.8
5.10
.11a
32
38
bird .10
beak
fixed
head
5.7
42
40
x
5.8
5.9
39 5.9
5.10 R
36
5.9
R
5.9+
5.6
37
34
5.9
5.7
Limber Pine Ledge
5.7
5.7
35
5.8
41
5.8
5.11b
5.5
chim
40
5.7
32
5.9
33
34
5.5
42
4th
class
5.8
37
5.6
5.7
slab
5.9
36
lichen
39
4th
class
38
5.8
4th
class
LUMPY RIDGE
SUNDANCE BUTTRESS
Eumenides Slab
38 36 37
39
36
42
34
40
38
37
39
32
137
138
Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climber's Guide
41 Rain Dance 5.11b R
Even more wandering than Stormwatch, Rain Dance follows difficult ground out
left before joining Stormwatch at the big roof underneath Adrenaline’s ramp.
Climb through the long roof band at a left-facing corner (5.11b) forty feet left of
Stormwatch. Continue to Limber Pine Ledge on the (short) second pitch. Follow
the topo. FA: Jim Beyer, 1990.
42 Cajun Capers 5.7 Cajun Capers is the last of the worthwhile routes on Sundance. Many variations
exist due to the difficult route finding encountered. A deep, oval-shaped depression drops from the left edge of the Stormwatch roof band; begin just left of this
feature. 1. Climb 5.5 rock to the left end of the roof band. 2. Go to Limber Pine
Ledge, 5.5. 3. Locate a left-angling flake/roof above Limber Pine Ledge. Ascend a
short, right-facing dihedral to a point near the flake, but traverse left underneath it
(5.6, if the correct line is found). 4. Continue left, passing near the far end of the
flake, and angle up to a ledge, 5.7. 5. Climb to an expansive ledge with a big pine.
Either finish to the left on Last Gasp or choose a line to the right, linking up steep,
5.7 dihedrals in two pitches. FA: Chip Salaun and Aaron Walters, 1979.
43 The Last Gasp 5.6
Start fifty feet left of Cajun Capers at a slab. 1. Fire up the slab, 5.6. 2. Climb to
the west end of Limber Pine Ledge along a right-facing corner, 5.5. 3 and 4. A
long, right-facing dihedral begins off the left side of the ledge. Follow this for two
pitches to the expansive ledge on Cajun Capers, 5.6. 5 and 6. A big groove leaves
the ledge on the left and avoids the broken roof band above. Follow the line for
two pitches. FA: Salaun, 1979.
Note: several new routes were established in the area between Bushes and
Whiteman (on Guillotine Wall) as this book went to press. Look for some bolts
and expect hard climbing.