Modest Fashion: the Way to Multicultural Fashion

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ISLAMIC ECONOMY AND FASHION “ Modest Fashion: the Way to
Multicultural Fashion”
Antea Brugnoni - ASSAIF
Sistema Moda Italia
Tuesday 28th January 2014
Milano
CONTENTS OF TALK
❖ ISLAMIC ECONOMY AND FINANCE: WHY BOTHERING?
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I.THE GLOBAL ISLAMIC ECONOMY DEFINED
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❖ II.CLOTHING/ FASHION SECTOR
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III. ABOUT DESIGN
IV. A FEW NOTIONS ON MODEST FASHION
❖ V. THE CONTAMINATION OF WESTERN FASHION
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VI. SOME FOOD FOR THOUGHTS
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❖ VII. OPPORTUNITIES
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❖ VIII. TO DO LIST
ISLAMIC ECONOMY AND FINANCE: WHY BOTHERING ?
❖ Not a value judgment but … just plain business
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Blue Ocean v Red Ocean Strategies
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Sectors in which Italy is a natural player
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❖ Intermediaries, such as trade associations, lawyers, advisory services, accountants,
taxation, media, etc. are playing a key role
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EXPO from Shangai to Dubai … through Milan
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❖ Because the world is moving on !!
I. THE GLOBAL ISLAMIC ECONOMY DEFINED
❖ DEMAND. There is a latent demand for large and growing Islamic economy core sectors
that:
→ extend across the globe
→ with burgeoning ecosystem of businesses that are starting to serve them
→ present large gaps and opportunities
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❖ NUMBERS. In aggregate, the global expenditure of Muslim consumers on food and
lifestyle sectors is being estimated to be $1,620 billion in 2012 (reach $2,470 billion by
2018) of which $224 billion for clothing.
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❖ MULTICULTURAL. The consumers of the Islamic economy are primarily Muslims but
also include others outside the Islamic faith who share similar values.
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❖ INNER DRIVERS. Such as demography, values, demographic growth..
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❖ OUTER DRIVERS. Communication technology, ethical consumption, growth
opportunities…
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II. CLOTHING/ FASHION SECTOR
About Trends and Numbers
❖ Muslim clothing/fashion is driven by underlying Islamic mandate to preserve modesty,
as laid forth in the Quran and the Sunna:
→ in addition, Muslims are also encouraged to wear good quality clothing so as to
celebrate the blessings bestowed upon them by God
→ Muslim clothing has traditionally reflected the dynamism and diversity of the Islamic
world, with varying styles that embrace local customs
→ there is a wide diversity in interpretation and adoption of ‘modesty’ among Muslims
across the world. In addition, geographic/cultural heritage also plays a strong role in its
adoption
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❖ Muslim populations extending from the far West to the far East are estimated to have
spent $224 billion in ‘clothing & footwear’ in 2012:
→ this compares to $2,100 billion of global expenditure (10.6%)
→ this expenditure is expected to reach $322 billion by 2018 (11.15% of global
expenditure of $2,900 billion)
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❖ Dubai Design City & Dubai Fashion Council. Established by official Decree. Tasked
with making Dubai a global design and fashion destination. Keywords: design, fashion,
luxury, art. Expo 2020 is set to spur investment in infrastructure, design and new ideas,
boosting local businesses.
II. CLOTHING/ FASHION SECTOR
About Trends and Numbers
❖ Top countries with Muslim consumers clothing consumption (based on 2012 data) are
Turkey ($25 billion), Iran ($21 billion), Indonesia ($17 billion), Egypt ($16 billion), Saudi
Arabia ($15 billion) and Pakistan ($14 billion)
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❖ Significant size of Muslim clothing market also exists in countries where Muslims are
minorities:
→ Muslims in Western Europe (Germany, France, UK, …) plus North America (US,
Canada) collectively spent an estimated $21 billion on clothing and footwear in 2012.
This would make the Western Muslim clothing market second only after Turkey
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❖ In 2013 faith and fashion have combined to showcase Muslim modest clothing
creativity through fashion shows taking place in Indonesia, Malaysia, Dubai, Turkey,
US, UK, Germany, and Russia
→ it’s a growing trend reflecting the young Muslim demographics desire to keep their faith
in a modern, presentable and creative ways
II. CLOTHING/ FASHION SECTOR - VALUE CHAIN
About Trends and Numbers
❖ The key segments of the global clothing industry value chain that are structurally
impacted by halal clothing needs are: clothing manufacturers (specifically on women
wear), distribution channels (i.e. retailers including those online), and designers. From
the wider industry support eco eco-system, marketing, media and financial services are
also impacted
Designers
Developing unique halal clothing designs
Clothing manufacturers
Manufacturing halal clothing
Distribution channels
Developing shelf space or distinct retail brands for halal
clothing
Financial services
Supporting Sharia compliant financing for Muslim clothing
businesses/startups
Marketing
Marketing campaigns that consider unique Muslim values
Media/Events
Media and events catering to halal clothing
Eco-System
R & D, Marketing, Technology, Financial Services,
Regulation, Training
III. ABOUT DESIGN
❖ What does “wide diversity in interpretation” mean?
III. ABOUT DESIGN
❖ Essential and traditional
III. ABOUT DESIGN
❖ Asiatic and traditional
III. ABOUT DESIGN
❖ Excessive
III. ABOUT DESIGN
❖ Excessive n2
III. ABOUT DESIGN
❖ Stylish
III. ABOUT DESIGN
❖ Geometric
III. ABOUT DESIGN
❖ Colorful
III. ABOUT DESIGN
❖ Aggressive
III. ABOUT DESIGN
❖ A market bigger than expected
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IV. A Few Notions on Modest Fashion - Raehan Afrilicia, Domus Academy
❖A market of $ 96 billion (Bloomberg) of which 10% Christians
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❖Modest fashion embraces cultures, faiths…and more. A research project by the London
School of Fashion states that even women not motivated by faith are now demanding
"something other than spaghetti straps on a mini-dress to wear”.
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❖Young women are main consumer of modest fashion. This is a generation who has grown
up with consumer culture, and who expects to express every aspect of itself through
participation in consumer a culture, therefore avoiding using traditional or so called ethnic
clothing.
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“This clothing is beautiful, and the beauty is made for every
woman”, Indonesian Fashion Designer Amy Atmanto
IV. A Few Notions on Modest Fashion - Raehan Afrilicia, Domus Academy
❖A quest for integration. "Young Muslims are increasingly looking for fashion that doesn't
set them apart from the rest of society. “, Jana Kossiabati, owner of the first blog on Islamic
fashion.
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❖A quest for identity. "I wanted to design prints and clothes that Muslims could look at and
instantly identify with”, says designer Sarah Elenany.
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❖A freedom for women’s bodies. “Performance sportswear that covers your body and gives
you the freedom to reach your fitness goals”, states Botswana-based Friniggi sportswear
maker. Same for ResportsOn: “Sports headscarf. Be yourself. Unveil your performance.”
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❖“Covered is the new couture”, Walker Tamara, examiner.com
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IV. A Few Notions on Modest Fashion - Raehan Afrilicia, Domus Academy
A Survey in Milan Shows That…
V. THE CONTAMINATION OF WESTERN FASHION…
V. THE CONTAMINATION OF WESTERN FASHION…
VI. SOME FOOD FOR THOUGHTS
❖ Clothing companies and brands are quite fragmented globally. In most OIC countries,
local clothing companies that are local culture-driven (national dresses) dominate the
market:
→ a special segment of Islamic/modest clothing companies are emerging globally
→ some of the more established producers and labels understandably come from
Muslim-majority countries
→ however, new labels from other countries — especially those targeting the younger
generation of Muslim women — are quickly gaining tractions in their local markets
and beyond
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❖ Some of the select ‘niche’ modest/Islamic clothing companies are as follows:
→ Shukr (Jordan) has been serving the Muslim consumers, especially those in the West,
through its selection of modest fashion since 2001. Shukr’s main retail markets are
North America and the UK, but there are substantial retail sales to over 50 countries
across the world as well as numerous wholesale customers and franchisee holders
→ Rabia Z (UAE) brand is sold in 45 countries, from the UK, GCC to Australia and
Southeast Asia. It has been showcased on many catwalks around the world
→ Tekbir (Turkey) is a leading manufacturer of fashion scarves since 1982. It has
distribution centers in Europe and Africa (Egypt) as well
VI. SOME FOOD FOR THOUGHTS
→ Balqees (UAE) is a high-end abaya brand from Dubai. It is famous for its diamondstudded abaya collections. Its current distribution covers Middle East, South Asia and
South East Asia
→ Armine (Turkey) aims to be the “Armani” for Muslim women through its complete
offering of high-end head scarves and Muslim apparels. Armine apparel and
accessories are sold in 1,400 stores, including in the U.S., the Netherlands, Britain
and the Middle East
→ Islamic Design House (UK) With “Faith, Fun and Fashion” as its tagline, it is one of
the pioneering enterprises in the western hemisphere that are in the business of
creating alternatives for Muslim apparels. It has distribution in UK, USA, Canada,
Egypt, UAE and Jordan
→ Hijup (Indonesia) is an Islamic fashion e-commerce service established in 2011. It
serves as an online mall offering a wide range of the products from Indonesian
Islamic fashion designers. It currently has 85 designers that have joined as tenants.
The company has served 40,000 customers thus far
VII. OPPORTUNITIES
❖ Islamic finance/investments & consolidation: a large sizeable market with thousands of
small retailers/ producers but without any sizeable companies should spell opportunity
for Islamic finance institutions. With a focus on SME development and financing, this
sector should be an important one to consider given its fragmented but large volume
activity
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❖ clothing production is a major industry for many of the OIC countries (Bangladesh,
Turkey, Indonesia, Morocco, and Pakistan). Manufacturers who are producing clothing
for global brands from the OIC already have the infrastructure to engage this market
segment in a much focused way
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❖ Western Muslim fashion market: this is a large segment in itself with relative
homogenous clothing patterns. While brands exist and certain Western retailers are also
looking at this segment, there still remains a big opportunity
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❖ centers of excellence: opportunity exists to further develop this sector. Especially given
no standardization requirements, such a center can also facilitate best practices in
ensuring integrity of ‘modest’ fashion
VII. OPPORTUNITIES
❖ consumer media platforms: tremendous opportunity exists in engaging this global
audience with modest fashion media solutions. Solutions could still be developed and
expanded to gain global reach and in multiple languages
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❖ Italian imprint ?
VIII. TO DO LIST
❖Reciprocal capacity building. Work with designers and brands to develop an offer
consequent with brand’s personality and specific for the target area.
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❖Structuring of a communication strategy.
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❖Monitoring of the whole production and communication (from photo shooting to press
clipping)
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❖Sharing the information with the target audience, reaching the commercial and distribution
sectors
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❖Use islamic financial tools to raise capital, partner with important distribution groups,
create a fund of top-quality Italian companies targeting the modest fashion sector with a
full range of products, ecc…
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Grazie
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www.assaif.org