Where Fashion Meets Couture Jewellery
Transcription
Where Fashion Meets Couture Jewellery
IIJW: Chief guest Rashmi Thackeray being felicitated by Vipul Shah and Pankaj Parekh. Where Fashion Meets Couture Jewellery The India International Jewellery Week (IIJW) celebrated its fifth edition from July 14-17 at the Grand Hyatt in Mumbai. The four- day glittering affair organised by the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) saw some of the most reputed jewellery brands showcase their innovative designs on the ramp along with budding designers from the National Institute of Design (NID) and the Indian Institute of Gems and Jewellery (IIGJ). 56 solitaire INTERNATIONAL august 2014 The show was inaugurated by chief guest Rashmi Thackeray along with Vikram Merchant, manager, Rio Tinto’s Indian Representative Office; Amit Pratihari, director for retail, Forevermark; R.K. Sharma, CEO and executive director of PC Jeweller, and Mehul Choksi, chairman of Gitanjali Jewels along with GJEPC’s top brass. Vipul Shah, GJEPC chairman, said, “The IIJW has seen four very successful IIJW Special editions held in Mumbai, India’s premier city for style, fashion and luxury. Each year the event has been growing bigger and getting better with the best creative designers presenting their enthralling lines of jewellery. IIJW as a property has proved to the world that India is one of the prime destinations for jewellery globally, with design talents, which are indeed world class.” Vikram Merchant said, “Rio Tinto, one of the world’s leading diamond producers, is proud of its partnership with the Indian gems and jewellery industry. We are reinforcing this collaboration by taking a leading role at IIJW – an event that gives Indian jewellery international exposure while engaging the Indian consumer with this category.” While the show began with the Leading Jewellers of the World by Gitanjali Group, the grand finale opened with the title sponsor Nazraana by Rio Tinto’s presentation of glamorous jewellery featuring a piece from each of the seven collections that they launched at the IIJS. As the display of the gorgeous jewellery from the various brands came to a close on the fourth day, IIJW’s brand ambassador Sonam Kapoor walked the ramp in fabulous creations by Ganjam. The show ended with participants of the India International Jewellery Week 2014 being honoured with mementoes presented by Sonam Kapoor along with GJEPC’s chairman Vipul Shah, vice chairman Pankaj Parekh and convenor of promotion, marketing and business development and IIJW, Sanjay Kothari who thanked all those who made the event a great success. The show was presented by Nazraana by Rio Tinto in association with PC Jeweller and had partnered with Azva by World Gold Council, Forevermark and the UB Group. (From left) Yogesh Lakhani, James Courage, Roland Lorie, Sachin Jain, Sonam Kapoor, Vipul Shah, Yash Agarwal, Vasant Bhandari and Vikram Merchant at the IIJW Grand Finale. IIJW as a property has proved to the world that India is one of the prime destinations for jewellery globally, with design talents, which are indeed world class.” solitaire INTERNATIONAL august 2014 57 IIJW Special Bridal Offerings Aks Jewels by Alka Kumar opened Day 2 at the IIJW with a dramatic collection of diamondstudded bridal jewellery. Famed singer Shibani Kashyap sang foottapping numbers as the models walked down the ramp in glittering creations ornamented with fancy and uncut diamonds, bright red rubies, enchanting emeralds and mystifying amethysts. Shibani herself wore a dressy uncut diamond flat collar accompanied by cascading chandelier earrings. Broad necklaces, rings, earrings and bracelets were fashioned in traditional and contemporary designs. A carved square pendant seductively hung from a pearl chain, while a triple-row diamond emerald necklace fringed with diamonds caught the audience’s attention. Diamond jhumkas dazzled with rubies, long chandeliers perfectly balanced gold and diamonds and diamond hoop earrings were complemented with imposing pearl drops. Bangles adorned with peacocks, broad cuffs and dainty bracelets with a hint of gemstones offered brides a wide range of jewellery. Shibani once again walked the ramp, bringing an end to the riveting show by Aks Jewels. Mirroring Bygone Eras Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers of Jaipur presented a stunning collection called the Aks. The collection was showcased against the backdrop of a glittering palace with ornate pillars and intricate mosaic arches transporting the audience into an era of beauty and grandeur reflecting bygone cultures and splendid eras. The show opened with an intense monologue by super actor and theatre personality Rajit Kapur, who mesmerised the audience. As the lights dimmed, India’s three top super models sashayed down the ramp – Ujjwala Raut wore a three-strand rani haar of pearls with a square diamond pendant and a haath phool; Nina Manuel displayed a diamond choker with an emerald centre, and matching cuffs, earrings and rings; Dipannita Sharma was adorned with a long necklace of flat medallions, a choker set with uncut diamonds, earrings, bangles and rings. 58 solitaire INTERNATIONAL august 2014 The brand’s creative director Yash Agarwal displayed a repast of stunning pieces crafted with vintage coins; one of the stunners on the ramp was the heavy coin bangle crafted in 18-karat yellow gold, and lavished with flat and full-cut diamonds and emerald beads along with delicate filigree work. Rubies reigned at the show with chains interjected with rubies and pearls, bold pendants shaped like minarets, ruby collars edged with huge polkis and a sunburst bangle. Making a showstopping entry was the very charming Parineeti Chopra dressed in a sexy velvet corset and layered tulle lehenga. She wore a multi-row strand of pearls with a giant pendant, a kada with enormous emerald prongs, floral ring and earrings. The gorgeous bridal wear and saris encrusted with elaborate embroidery were by top designers Shyamal and Bhumika. IIJW Special Diamonds are Forever Emerald Jewel Industry India Ltd. launched its high-end couture diamond collection Athena at the jewellery week. Designed by Indra Jadwani, the jewellery collection encompassed an array of necklaces, earrings, bracelets ranging from elaborate statement pieces to delicate evening wear. Inspired by the beauty of Mughal architecture and nature, simple designs made a big impact with openwork cuffs, diamond drop earrings, diamond jhumkis, lattice work necklaces and bracelets, triplerow necklaces and floral pendant sets that graced the runway. An attractive peacock with a diamond-encrusted plumage was one of the statement pieces on the runway, while the elaborate trendy haath phool stole the show. The finale piece was a gorgeous floral necklace which was draped over one shoulder in ripples and waves as the model glided down the ramp. Enjoying the thunderous applause from the audience was the very lovely Indra Jadwani who happily walked down the ramp acknowledging the accolades. Jewellery Extravagance Sponsoring the ‘Best of the Best’ presentation for the fourth consecutive year, the PC Jeweller show called ‘Beau Mariee’ (Beautiful Bride) was a scintillating part of the IIJW Grand Finale. Audiences got to see a perfectly designed display of 17 entries from various collections; the pieces were gorgeous in form and design as they dazzled on the ramp. PC Jeweller presented a never-seen-before line of wedding jewellery that encompassed eye-catching kundan and polki creations. Models bedecked in elaborate jewels, walked down the ramp as Bollywood singer Ankit Tiwari of Aashiqui 2 and Ek Villain fame crooned melodious numbers. The gold temple jewellery line was embossed with forms of great deities, while uncut diamond-studded rani haars glistened in the arc lights. The designer collection showcased the brilliance of diamonds and coloured stones. Contemporary forms highlighted with enamelled floral designs and meenakari work, were apt for the modern Indian woman. From the sapphire blue lake stone on the finger to a circle of emerald green leaves around the neck, from sunset colours for bangles to glittering diamonds; P C Jeweller had everything and much more for the connoisseurs of fashion and style. Ending the show was the stunning Bipasha Basu, who glided down the ramp in a luxurious green embroidered net lehenga teamed with an elaborate polki choker fringed with pearls, shoulder dusters, and an impressive cocktail ring. After a superb line of scintillating jewellery, Sachin Gupta and Nitin Gupta the dynamic duo from PC Jeweller, walked the ramp with Bipasha Basu. 60 solitaire INTERNATIONAL august 2014 IIJW Special Victorian Finery Recreating the splendour of the Victorian era, designer sisters Dipti-Amisha showcased their collection called “Reset the Mindset”. The show opened with Bollywood star Amyra Dastur modelling a sensational rani haar and a choker in gold with stunning jhumkas and kadas. The collection featured designs in classic gold with accents of colour, cut and diamonds that combined the fire of rubies, the brilliance of amethysts, the luxurious green of emeralds and the purity of pearls. With glamorous ornaments for Western as well as Indian wear, the designers ensured that the pieces had unlimited global appeal. Beaded necklaces suspending gem-set pendants, fashionable diamond chokers accented with gemstones, and white and yellow gold jewellery juxtaposed with precious stones, gold beads, vilandis and textures created timeless glitter. Mikita Javeri, Dipti’s daughter made a pleasing appearance on the ramp with Amyra Dastur. A Bridal Affair Bollywood’s “Mast Mast” girl Raveena Tandon ended the show looking ravishing wearing a layer of necklaces including emerald rows, diamond and ruby chains, kundan-set polki haars and a pearl choker with diamond motifs. Completing the look were the statement chand balis, maang tika and huge rings. To match the beauty of the jewellery, the elegant garments were dreamt up by fashion designer Amisha. Kolkata’s top jewellery brand Mahabir Danwar Jewellers and KIK Jewells displayed a dazzling collection called “Bollywood Brides”. Founded by the late Mahabir Prasad Soni in 1970, the jewellery brand has two outlets in Kolkata. Giving a feel of timeless royalty to the jewellery along with flawless workmanship teamed with traditional glamour, the ornaments looked sensational on the models as they glided down the ramp. The show, divided into two segments, Indian and western, flaunted gorgeous polki bibs with pear-shaped earrings. Solid gold neckpieces and chokers bore three dimensional jewelled flowers; rani haars with carved deities in antique gold, jhumkis with tassels, paisley-shaped gem-studded earrings and the grand haar studded with rubies and emeralds took the audience’s breath away. The next segment saw an array of modern jewellery encrusted with diamonds, rubies, emeralds and pearls. Ruling the catwalk were necklaces with clusters of grape designs, rows of rubies set in broad cuffs, a sloping diamond collar with emerald drops – all the jewellery shimmered under the spotlights. The showstopper was the very beautiful rising star from the film “Heropanti” Kriti Sanon, who modelled a stunning V-shaped diamond necklace and shoulder duster diamond earrings. The gorgeous Indian bridal wear was from SVA by Sonam and Paras, and the sensuous flowing evening gowns were designed by Gavin Miguel. Taking the ramp after the show were the directors of the Mahabir Danwar Group, Vijay Kumar Soni, Arvind Kumar Soni, Amit Kumar Soni, Sandeep Kumar Soni and Pankaj Parekh, vice chairman of the GJEPC. IIJW Special Bridal Glamour Offering fabulous jewellery to the fashion-conscious woman for several decades the world’s leading brand, Swarovski has had a beautifully balanced collection of genuine gemstones and created stones since 1965. The ballroom of the Grand Hyatt was turned into a marriage mandap with dozens of marigold streamers hanging from the ceiling, while the ramp was edged with a border of marigolds. The stage was set for a mega wedding celebration featuring brides from India. The Swarovski Gemstones Gemvisions – “The Brides of India” collection was a mind-blowing mélange of genuine sapphires, topazes, rhodolites, peridots, amethysts, citrines, black spinels, marcasites, zirconia and synthetic stones. From Punjab it was beautiful Simran Kaur Mundi, Miss India who looked stunning in a diamond set with cuffs and rows of bangles from Sangam Jewels N Gold. Prachi Mishra, Miss India was the Maharashtrian bride who modelled a splendid rani haar in pearls and gold from Gunjan Jewels and Tara Jewels. The Gujarati bride, Pooja Chopra, Miss India was decked in a gold flat trellised collar, earrings, bangles and rings from Tanishq. The South Indian bride, Amruta Patki looked lovely in a diamond haar from Emerald Jewel Industry and Ganjam. 64 solitaire INTERNATIONAL august 2014 The bride from Bengal, Natasha Suri, Miss India added glamour to a ruby and diamond set from Diosa by Darshan Dave. The Christian bride, Manasi Moghe glided down the ramp in all white wearing a lacy diamond set from Farah Khan Fine Jewellery. Zoya Afroz, Miss India made a delightful Muslim bride when she wore jewellery by Swarnmandir. Finally the gorgeous Bollywood showstopper, Zarine Khan stepped out of an ornate palanquin, dressed as a Rajasthani bride decked in a giant neckpiece featuring a tableau from Mahi, Sangam Jewels N Gold, Swarnmandir and Kundan Jewels. Also featured was fabulous jewellery for each segment from Surya Golds, Diosa by Darshan Dave, Karwar Ornaments, Jewel Creations, Delhi Chains, Poonam Jeweldiam, Bhindi Manufacturers, Kundan Jewellers, RKR Gold, Sangam Jewels N Gold, Raj Jewellers, Jewels by Queenie, and ORO by Raia Jewels. Swarovski presented the popular trends Daydream Princess, Natural Affairs, Urban Minimalist and Cultural Roots that will appeal to lovers of fine jewels. To match the beauty of the bridal collection the garments were designed by top designer Archana Kochhar. Royal Essence Vijay Golecha of Golecha Jewels showcased a breathtaking array of bridal jewellery which was presented by HRD Antwerp on day 3 of the IIJW in Mumbai. Two stands with multiple lamps on either side of the stage and a blue velvet covered ramp set the stage for a grand show titled, ‘Brides by Golecha Jewels’. Models were decked from head to toe in jewels that recalled the grandeur and splendour of the erstwhile royal era. Splendid creations of unmatched beauty and craftsmanship were a sight to behold and were teamed with regal outfits designed by Vikram Phadnis. Multiple necklaces edged with rubies, myriad hair ornaments, a large carved Ganesha pendant, chandeliers with rubies and diamonds that were on display would dazzle any bride-to-be. Rani haars with emeralds, haath phools luxuriously covered with rubies and diamonds were breathtaking. The pearl story was magnificent as chokers with huge uncut diamonds were edged with round pearls; while rows of the same appeared for chand balis, kadas, bangles and rings. Large rubies were embedded in a backdrop of gold, pearls and emeralds. Elegant Artistry 66 solitaire INTERNATIONAL august 2014 The showstopper was the evergreen superstar Sridevi, who glided in wearing a regal diamond rani haar with a grand square gleaming pendant teamed with matching earrings, a bracelet and a ring. Taking a bow at the end of the show, were Vijay and Rupali Golecha, Vikarm Phadnis, Serge Courvreur, CEO of HRD Antwerp and the gorgeous Sridevi. Surya Golds, an ISO 9001-2008 TUV-certified company, presented a unique collection of jewellery in association with Swarovski. Flawless designs and finish have been the hallmark of Surya Golds and it displayed an exciting blend of Indo-Western styling for the New Age woman. Presenting an unconventional mélange of styles with hints of contemporary touches, the jewellery in 18- and 22-karat white and yellow gold dazzled with the beauty of Swarovski Zirconia, the finest stones created in the world. Surya Golds’ latest presentation called “Nature Inception” displayed a range of luxurious traditional jewellery in its contemporary avatar. The show opened with the pretty Kavita Verma, who performed in the film “Policegiri”, wearing a dazzling set to create a feel of the lovely jewellery that followed. The stunning range of jewellery including square pendants edged with pearl drops, woven diamond and ruby patterns in necklaces, angular pendants on a diamond bed created an impact on the ramp. A choker with a pear-shaped diamond pendant with rubies was the highlight of the show. Bollywood star Ameesha Patel, the lovely showstopper looked gorgeous modelling a flat scalloped collar studded with rubies, emeralds and edged with pearls; she also wore a lacy cuff and imposing earrings. The clothes for the collection were a beautiful line-up of sorbet coloured garments designed by Mitali Jagtap. IIJW Special Traditional Parlance Ganjam has a long-drawn affair with traditional heritage Indian jewellery and the audience at the IIJS 2014 were taken on a royal traverse through their immaculate, fine craftsmanship that has been perfected over centuries. Opening the show for Ganjam, was their signature Heritage collection. Twenty two-karat gold richly coloured with shimmering rubies, emeralds and diamonds in traditional South Indian motifs were the cynosure of all eyes. Traditional haars, paisley-motif necklaces, flat gold chokers and an assortment of round and triangular jhumkis, bangles and rings delicately adorned the models. Next on display was their diamond jewellery collection inspired by Chestnut trees. Clusters of diamonds created three dimensional forms of handcrafted organic leaves with fancy pear and round diamonds outlining the veins. Another collection Blossoms recreated the beautiful colours of flowers with intricate layered petals; the jewellery was studded with precious and semi-precious coloured gemstones and white diamonds. Created in yellow and white gold, the collection was dainty and elegant. The fine jewellery brand also showcased two of their creations specially commissioned for Swarovski’s Gemvision 2013 and 2015 respectively. Sagarika Ghatge made a stunning entrance wearing the piece-derésistance of the show. It was an exquisite neckpiece called Mayuratna designed with 15 drop-shaped Zambian emeralds weighing 243 carats along with white brilliant and pear cut diamonds weighing 80.80 carats. A labour of love crafted over nine months, the piece truly deserved the applause it received. Assistant jewellery designer Juhee Bolakhe of Ganjam walked the ramp with Sagarika Ghatge to acknowledge the applause from the audience. Architectural Wonders The opening show on day three at the IIJW featured the talented graduates from the Jaipur-based Indian Institute of Gems and Jewellery presented by Derewala World Jewellery, Jaipur. The “Astitva” collection was presented by 21 design graduates who showed one ornament each. The first sequence was a tribute to architecture from the various regions of the country. A side-ribbed cuff with gold chains, the modern question mark design for earrings, South Indian motifs for pendants and the pink silk tassel edged in gold caps hanging on a thread were interesting interpretations of the theme. A peacock inspired pendant had a contemporary touch as well as the 3D flower creation pendant that looked alluring. The second sequence was an ode to the beauty of City Palace in Jaipur. Here the magnificent pieces dazzled with diamonds, precious stones and metals. Minarets appeared on armlets and danglers had intricate shields. Kadas with dome structures, necklaces with palace carvings highlighted the segment. The pearl trellis earrings, lacy kadas, chand balis with streamers of pearls and a kandeel pendant on a string of beads recreated the grandeur of the palace. The lovely Indian and fusion outfits seen during the show were designed by Muni and Girija and blended perfectly with the jewellery. solitaire INTERNATIONAL august 2014 67 IIJW Special Fab Fusion Creative Expressions Doctor-turned-jewellery designer, Preeti Jain showcased her passion for jewels at the IIJW. Jewels by Preeti presented Amour, a collection for the woman in love with herself. Bringing in a captive amalgamation of rare precious stones, Preeti worked with rubies, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds in cut and uncut forms. Her designs were spread over a wide spectrum from traditional to contemporary and experimental. Designed in a variety of settings, Preeti also showcased a line of lightweight jewellery for the young trendy woman. Chokers with imposing emerald centres were edged with pearls; ‘V’-shaped collars with shimmering diamonds were clasped around the slender necks of the models, while circular and square pendants were tantalisingly connected to three strands of diamonds. Crescent-shaped chand balis teamed with crescent-shaped pendants accented with pearls and diamonds, luxurious necklaces inspired by flowers and diamond-studded curvaceous chokers were some of her signature pieces on display. Ending the show in great style was the effervescent Kalki Koechlin wearing an elaborate ‘V’-shaped antique finish jadau choker encrusted with rubies, emeralds and diamond necklaces teamed with matching earrings and an elegant kada. Preeti Jain walked the ramp after her fabulous show of innovatively designed and perfectly crafted ornaments. The models were garbed in clothes from Preeti’s own label called Divinno. 68 solitaire INTERNATIONAL august 2014 Shobha Shringar Jewellers unveiled the scintillating “Neesha Collection” for brides at the IIJW. From small beginnings nearly 25 years ago selling pearls and silver jewellery from her home, Shobhana Choksey created Shobha Shringar Jewellers, one of the most valued brands for bridal jewellery in India. “The Neesha Collection” now created by Snehal Choksey and wife Neesha has been a hot-seller and they are perfectly aware of Shobhana Choksey’s creativity and clients’ requirements. Opening the show was the gorgeous Dia Mirza in a superb collar that flowed into a bib, chandelier shoulder dusters, maang tika and a cluster of bangles. Preserving India’s jewellery heritage in the designs, the show continued with gorgeous ethnic antique jewellery, which are heirloom pieces. Incorporating the beauty of jewellery styles from around the country, the fusion presented by Shobha Shringar Jewellers was unique in form and design. The ‘U’ shaped rani haar, the draped gold beaded necklace, paisley pendant at the centre of a gold neckpiece were the cynosure of all eyes. Some of the stunning armlets with intricate details were presented on the ramp – the pieces had lacy pearl designs or multi strands. Pendants were given pride of place like the black carved Ganesha on a stunning rani haar. Kadas made strong fashion statements and cuffs were kept between elegant bangles. Earrings ranged from chand balis edged with tiny gems to danglers or shoulder dusters. The assortment of rings was mind boggling with floral, abstract and traditional designs vying for the attention of the audience. The stunning Dia Mirza closed the show with a superbly crafted necklace, sensationally designed earrings, kada and rings. The gorgeous gowns, ethnic wear and saris created by Ismaya Couture were perfectly matched by the rich bridal ornaments. Taking a bow on the ramp at the end of the show were Shobhana Choksey the lady behind the fabulous brand and Snehal Choksey. Jewellery Soiree Like every year, the 5th edition of the India International Jewellery Week raised its curtains with a spectacular show by the Gitanjali Group. Leading Jewellers of the World presented ‘the Bridal Collection’ that featured glittering collections from Gili, Asmi, Parineeta, Nakshatra and Nizam. Paying tribute to the Indian woman and the cause of the girl child, the show featured a dazzling array of glittering jewellery from five brands. Ankita Shorey, Miss India International 2011 looked gorgeous in a stunning maang tikka, a broad necklace and diamond danglers, as she gracefully walked down the ramp, wearing jewellery from the Gili and Asmi collections. The Parineeta collection tantalised the bride-to-be with bridal jewellery that glistened with jadau, gold, diamonds and precious stones. The Nakshatra diamond jewellery collection dazzled with a mélange of beautiful gems. Looking lovely in a gorgeous Nakshatra set, Konkana Bakshi, former Miss India displayed a luxurious diamond fringe with emerald tips. Finally the Nizam collection recreated the glory of the golden era with antique finished rani haars, chokers and elaborately textured gold bridal necklaces. Neha Dhupia looked regal in a splendid diamond and ruby set teamed with a maang tikka and shoulder dusters, all designed by Queenie Singh for the Parineeta collection. Top designer duo Ashima and Leena complemented the jewellery with their innovative clothes while the show was conceptualised and visualised by Queenie Singh along with Raell Padamsee’s ACE production and the Create Foundation in memory of late Pearl Padamsee. Walking down the ramp to thunderous applause at the end of the fabulous show were Mehul Choksi, chairman, Gitanjali Group, Queenie Singh, Tiara Dhody, Ankita Shorey, Konkana Bakshi, Neha Dhupia, Leena Singh and Raell Padamsee. A Modern Spin Closing day two at the IIJW, Leading Jewellers of the World presented an evening of glittering jewels, music and dance extravaganza. Presenting the latest addition to their bouquet, the Leading Jewellers of the World introduced “Viola Italia – Fine Gioielli”, the range of lightweight, affordable fine ornaments with a touch of Indo-Western fusion to suit Indian sensibilities. The show opened to the rendition of “Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friend” sung by Delna Mody, who also gave a spirited performance with the foot tapping “New York New York” from Raell Padamsee’s ACE Production with international dancers adding zing to the evening. The jewellery divided into four ranges had a line-up of necklaces with prong accents, hints of topaz, long pendants on diamond chains, beautiful trio of topazes spread out from the centre of neckpieces. Dazzling on the ramp was the “Bubbles Collection” which sparkled in pink and yellow gold plating, textured beads, coloured stones and white topaz. The “Noir Collection” gave large cabochon cut white topaz and black spinel alternately studded in 92.5 silver an avant-garde appearance on the ramp. The “Torse Collection” was a dream to behold with twisted wire imagery that surrounded semi-precious gems and white topaz, once again set with pink and yellow gold plating and 92.5 silver. The “Mélange Collection” was a grand conglomeration of many shapes and multi coloured stones like cabochon cut white topaz all studded in 92.5 silver. Konkana Bakshi, Miss India and brand ambassador made a graceful entry in a dazzling white and gold topaz flecked set. Closing the show was the very beautiful Bollywood star and brand ambassador, Shraddha Kapoor who glided down displaying a scintillating diamond and amethyst set. The seductive gowns for the show were created by Karn Malhotra. Bridal Grandeur PN Gadgil Jewellers in association with HRD Antwerp showcased bridal jewellery in all its splendour. Crafted for the modern Indian woman, the collection encompassed traditional motifs revamped with a contemporary edge. Showcasing a medley of diamonds and rubies, the crisply edited show opened with delicate necklace inspired by foliage. Openwork diamond necklaces with a hint of rubies, ‘U’-shaped necklaces with mini rings, tasselled earrings, small jhumkis fringed with pearls and subtle diamond collars ruled the runway. The jewellery was articulated with geometric and floral motifs. PN Gadgil also showcased their Balgandharva jewellery collection as well as Golden Jazz, their Italian-inspired collection. Models walked the ramp in elaborate polki and jadu pieces from their Royal jewellery collection while the Swarajya Maharashtrian collection encompassed symbolic elements such as thushi, mohanmal, bhudge and saaz, inspired by the Peshwai rule. The audience also got a glimpse of their temple jewellery collection as well as a tribal jewellery collection inspired by the North-East Indian culture. PN Gadgil’s latest collections studded with diamonds dazzled on the runway. Director-actor Divya Khosla, PN Gadgil’s showstopper looked electrifying in a white outfit teamed with a grand three-strand pearl necklace and a diamond choker replete with lace cuffs and rings. Saurabh Vidyadhar Gadgil, managing director of P N Gadgil Jewellers walked the ramp along with Serge Courvreur, CEO of HRD Antwerp, Divya Khosla and fashion designer Manali Jagtap. Cutting-Edge Designs Extremely talented graduates’ collections from the National Institute of Design (NID), Ahmedabad were featured by Sun Jewels at the IIJW. Pushing the design envelope, the six collections presented by seven students of the Lifestyle Accessory Design of NID displayed a single metal in unique perspectives like geometric structures, folding techniques, weaving and undulating forms. Anantaya by Srishti Gupta symbolised the everlasting circular forms intriguingly entwined to create necklaces, rings, bangles and pendants. The garland neckpiece and the huge circular neck ornament were stunners. Concord by Tanaya Agarwal worked around the basic folds in paper. The accordion-like layers formed the basis of the collection of necklaces, bracelets and rings. A rear shoulder harness and a flat asymmetric neck ornament created a stir on the ramp. Coins were the main motif in the collection Sikka by Sukanya Pasi. The coins were put together in tiered moulds or layered for extra elongated necklaces, and some interspersed with chains. Tornado by Krupa Patel and Manoj Kuldeep evoked the tribal look in a contemporary manner. Swirls in yellow metal strips were created and wound cleverly into ornaments for the neck and wrist. Petals in bronze were the focus of attention in the line Stritva by Anshula Mittal. Be it the bunched up petals on chains or petal brooches and angular cross body harness, the designer brought in an unconventional design element in accessories for the contemporary woman. Inspired by geometrics and abstract forms, the Crescenzo collection by Sanskruti Thorat featured modular pieces using origami. Geometric blocks towered around necks, wrists and ankles, while brooches and earrings matched the structures of the theme. The draped shoulder neckpiece, which gracefully snaked down the body of the model created a stunning entry on the ramp. IIJW Special Global Appeal Blending the beauty of the east and the west, Saboo Fine Jewels showcased three sensational collections at the IIJW. The Yaksha Kuba collection was inspired by the royal Rajput and Mughal eras. Bringing together art, motifs, sculptures and palace detailing that were in vogue during the erstwhile eras, the Yaksha Kuba jewels recreated the handmade artistry; showcasing intricate inlay and enamel work. A magnificent rani haar with four rows of graduating polkis, medallions speckled with emerald centres and the square engraved emerald pendant made for an eye-catching piece. The Lissome collection on the other hand offered slender, graceful and beautiful diamond-encrusted jewellery with a hint of coloured stones. Brooches were set with diamonds and emeralds while the ruby and diamond angular shawl-draped necklace had an ethereal elegance to it. The Kaustubh collection was a creation of unsurpassed beauty which included the magnificent Chandra Mukta, designed with white natural Basra and seed pearls, and the Agna Mukta, an unusual and rare pink/orange gem with a stunning flame pattern. Adding international style and elegance to the show, the last two collections were presented to the melodious live music by ace electronic violinist Sunita Bhuyan, winner of the Indira Gandhi Priyardarshini award. The designer of the gorgeous outfits, Amy Billimoria was the showstopper for the evening and walked the ramp in a sizzling red gown paired with a two-strand diamond necklace lavishly decorated with Burmese ruby florets. The very elegant and fast paced show comprising 17 entries revealed the beauty of Saboo Fine Jewels and the applause that greeted Suman Saboo, design head and Pranay Saboo, director of the brand along with Amy Billimoria proved that the presentation was an enthralling one. Sophisticated Symphony The Gemmological Institute of India presented Farah Khan ’s fine craftsmanship on the fashion runway. Her collection called Quaintrelle showcased an enthralling display of creativity, craft and cuts. Farah’s jewellery offers the modern woman a melange of options for parties, lunches, and haute couture events. Blending and juxtaposing her precious metals and stones, Farah showcased a line of soft sorbets and serene classics. Rubies, emeralds and other precious stones were carefully collaborated with pearls and diamonds. Cocktail floral rings, shimmering hoops with tassels for the ears, rows of rubies with an artistic bow pendant and bangles flecked with pearls and diamonds had a mesmerising effect on the audience. Hoops were looped together with a discreet glitter, while rows of emeralds were cinched with jewelled centres. Diamond chains had a collage of emerald leaves, strands of pearls had a burst of floral bouquet and chokers were given side slashes for an avant garde touch. The ethereal Lisa Ray walked the ramp for Farah Khan, wearing a pair of stunning diamond, pearl and emerald danglers with ear lobe chains, a cocktail ring and an encrusted bangle. Farah’s jewellery was perfectly complemented by flowy, whimsical outfits by Wendell Rodricks. The acclaimed jewellery designer walked the ramp with showstopper Lisa Ray and Sanjay Kothari, trustee, Gemmological Institute of India to the accompaniment of thunderous applause from the audience. solitaire INTERNATIONAL august 2014 71 IIJW Special Edgy meets Tribal Laksh Pahuja and Apala by Sumit Sawhney shared the final slot on the first day of the IIJW. Showcasing diverse creations, the show celebrated talent. The Gemological Science International (GSI) presented Laksh Pahuja’s segment titled Luminous Laksh which showcased the Itan Jewels collection of finely crafted cuffs and bangles in 18- and 22-karat gold. The bangles were adorned with trellis work, while strands of gold twirled around to form wider cuffs. The second part of the show consisted of seven iconic pieces from Laksh’s past collections. The imposing majestic dragon neckpiece dazzled under the ramp lights. While the medallion neckpiece inspired by Mahatma Gandhi’s vision and the Freedom Movement had touches of history on it. The Hawa Mahal armlet was intricately crafted with ruby droplets while the Amazon Beauty showcased an exquisite trio of dolphins. For the finale, Laksh showcased a hairpiece inspired by the Palm Jumeirah in Dubai. Depicting a bird’s eyeview of the iconic location, the hairpiece ended with a falcon, the national bird of the UAE. Crafted in gold and silver, the innovative creation weighed one kilo. Laksh Pahuja walked down the ramp with Mark Gershburg, CEO of GSI. After having received rave reviews for his IIJW debut in 2013, Sumit Sawhney of Apala showcased yet another spectacular collection called the Royal Tribe. Fusing royal inspirations with tribal touches, the jewellery collection is created in fine silver and 22-karat gold plating studded with precious and semi-precious stones. Drawing inspiration from art, architecture, nature and spirituality Sumit combined them with his bold contemporary designs for his brand Apala which means “most beautiful” in Sanskrit. Opening the display was the gorgeous Sunny Leone who walked down the ramp with Sumit Sawhney in an opulent Victorian neckpiece with elements of the hasli, albeit with a tribal touch. The rear piece with an amazing wreath effect in jade, added further drama to her ensemble. 72 solitaire INTERNATIONAL august 2014 Opulence was the key word for the collection and jewellery for men and women featured giant necklaces, nose rings and maang tikas. Necklaces sprinkled with emeralds while chunky cummerbunds and ear cuffs and shields added to the rustic touch of the jewellery. Sumit’s signature style was reflected in the magnificent beaded necklaces with majestic silver tribal pendants. Chokers flowed into flat collars with polkis and were edged with tribal motifs. Silver kadas had regal lion heads at the centre, while long neckpieces constituted a combination of precious stones and dramatic pendants. Statement rings, tasselled ruby pendants at the end of chains, elephants and giant circles graduated into neckpieces while haath phools varied in size and design. Sawhney’s pieces in gold were striking with ear muffs, nose clips, large rosettes for tribal pendants and temple altars as great pendants. The Victorian earrings were inspired by peacocks and were encrusted with rubies, diamonds, and green, orange, & blue sapphires. Mughal earrings with malachite and kundan were carved to perfection. Marking the end to a royal sojourn was Dipti Gujral who arrived in a palanquin wearing a grand temple jewellery-inspired pendant necklace. The fabulous clothes for the collection were by Atithi Gupta whose creativity captured the beauty of the jewellery. Diamond Dazzlers Rio Tinto’s Nazraana collection created from the top global mines in Canada, Zimbabwe and Australia was a gorgeous extravaganza at the IIJW. The seven collections from Nazraana priced from H5,000 onwards were stylishly designed pieces ranging from daily wear to bridal wear in diamonds set in 14- and 18-karat gold as well as 92.5 silver. Opening the show was IIJW brand ambassador Sonam Kapoor, who glided down the ramp displaying delicate earrings in a four-leaf clover design and rings. “Infinity” was a line of sparkling diamonds entwined into loops. Displaying the many permutations and combinations of the infinity swirls, the line of earrings, rings, bracelets and tiny pendants appeared on satin ribbons. The “Love” collection featured a variety of hearts including lucky charms. The “Floral” line consisted of necklaces, earrings, bracelets and rings with the blossoms appearing in delicate forms. Flowers bloomed in tiny shapes for brooches or on neckpieces. Daisies and tiny buds added to the delicate beauty of the jewellery, while leaves crept gracefully for the earrings. Inspired by ancient motifs and architecture, the “Heritage” collection featured lacy filigree pendants, cuffs, necklaces with floral insets and jewels like kadas and rings with traditional yet fusion touches. The “Spirituality” line showcased stylised divine charms that bring good fortune and luck. With a hint of enamelling and accented with precious stones, the Aum pendants, the Swastikas, Crosses, Ganeshas in various designs and sizes flooded the ramp. The “Contemporary” line highlighted the New Age styles with a mélange of diamonds meshed with gemstones in minimalistic designs. Modern options revolved around tasselled rubies and emeralds for necklaces, green satin ribbons gave tiny fringes on pendants a sophisticated look; while earrings and bangles also followed the fluid designs. Men’s Luxury featured a line of masculine accessories such as cuff-links, button pendants, jewelled buttons, wristbands and discreetly glittering diamond rings. Ending the show was graceful Yami Gautam, brand ambassador of Nazraana who looked stunning wearing a floral bracelet, necklace, ring and earrings which dazzled with glittering diamonds. The wide range of lovely garments that moved from casual to formal wear was created by Gavin Miguel. Period Pieces The jewellery show by Moni Agarwal presented by Solitaire Gemological Laboratories was a mesmerising experience of great beauty for the audience. Solitaire Gemological Laboratories, one of the top testing labs in the world ensures the quality of each diamond that passes through it. Moni Agarwal’s “Meeravali” collection was created from the highest quality polkis and Colombian emeralds. The leitmotif of the line was inspired by Rajasthani traditions and beauty. Aimed at the New Age bride, the collection had distinct touches of royal grandeur. Jhumkas with clusters of tiny pearls were set with striking rubies, pear-shaped emeralds and uncut diamonds set in gold. The tiniest of pearls were strung together in myriad strands and ended in emerald pyramids for a stunning neckpiece. Seven rows of polkis were clasped with a majestic centre pendant ideal for the blushing bride. Creating more drama on the ramp were the gorgeous haslis, luxurious pearl entwined gold and diamond waistbands, and emerald chains with angular pendants. Kundan-set shoulder dusters, giant circular centres for gold-beaded chains formed necklaces, while rows of emeralds, pearls, diamonds for rani haars were breathtaking in their grandeur and craftsmanship. Chitrangada Singh, Bollywood’s glamorous diva made a lovely showstopper for the collection wearing a dazzling rani haar, studded diamond collar, intricate cummerbund, nose ring, haath phool and a bracelet. The clothes called “Mirror Miracle” for the collection were exclusively created by talented Hyderabad designer, Anitha Reddy. Shirin Bandukwala and Chirag Soni, directors of the Solitaire Gemological Laboratories took the ramp at the end of a glorious show. solitaire INTERNATIONAL august 2014 73 IIJW Special BRight Sparks Six graduates from the Indian Institute of Gems & Jewellery (IIGJ), Mumbai proudly showcased their creations at the IIJW 2014. Mehul Baradia, who was sponsored by Chennai Diamonds, showcased four looks for a sparkling bride. His jewellery essentials included an elaborate cummerbund, a rani haar, maang tikkas, a looped emerald and diamond necklace and lacy interpretations crafted in gold. Neha Sharma presented a collection called Quirky Copper. She pushed the envelope with an innovative armlet-cum-ring, a striking finger shield, haath phool and triangular enamelled earrings. Baljinder Kaur Bahl presented Vivah, a crisp collection comprising a diamond choker, an open emerald necklace and a diamond encrusted necklace bejewelled with fluttering butterflies that are ideal for the fashion conscious woman of today. Forum Parekh and Raina Bhansali presented their ‘Statement’ collection, opening their segment with the Canvas of Nature that had shoulder dusters and a matching cuff decorated with a leafy design, they followed it up with innovative necklaces. Mihika Verma, Miss India 2004 and the star of the popular TV series “Yeh Hai Aashiqui” ended the show for the duo. Harshini Jethani showcased a couture collection of lush necklaces that flowed from the neck to the navel. Multi strands of pearls, delicate lace designs and pearl encrusted kadas were eyecatchers. The very popular model and actress, Gauhar Khan was Harshini’s showstopper. Taking the ramp after the fabulous presentation was a very proud moment for Vasant Mehta, chairman, IIGJ Andheri, Namita Pandya, convener, IIGJ Tardeo and Col. Sushil Arora, head IIGJ Mumbai. Eclectic Charm Three graduates from the Indian Institute of Gems & Jewellery (IIGJ), Delhi presented by P P Jewels showcased the sensational collections that scored in creativity and beauty. Drawing inspiration from nature, Rahul Luthra’s line Ra Abta presented five entries that were gorgeous floral cascades of beautiful jewellery called “Bridal Stories”. The handcrafted gold and silver pieces used sapphires, rubies, tanzanite and diamonds; the kalirey on the wrists with dangling pearls matched rani haars interspersed with gold spheres, earrings and a pearl-edged maang tika. The toe-cumanklet added glamour to the feet while a shimmer of lacy diamonds circled the neck of the model. The bridal wear was designed by Abhinav Mishra to match the beauty of the ornaments. The floral tones of the collection comprising six entries by Cherry Sahni for her collection Diamondtree were revealed in rose and white gold, set with sparkling diamonds. Concentrating on rings of myriad full finger shields to thumb covers and three-finger ornaments, and triple chained rings, the designer also added hand cuffs worn on the palms to balance the look. The two polki entries also had necklaces with ornate pendants with golden South Sea pearls with matching contemporary jhumkis. The lapel pins teamed with pearl and carved emeralds was a smart innovation. Having a distinct style for her creativity, Sabina Batra’s jewellery was very intricate, bold but utterly feminine. For the five entries set in gold using different textures, Sabina dreamt up handmade chains set with exotic gems. Striking entry was a ring-cum-bracelet, the coiled necklace with onyx and diamonds, the innovative lacy placket style neckpiece, paired with chand baalis-cum-jhumkis and matching necklace and the white gold linear neck ornament were entries that demanded attention from the audience. n 74 solitaire INTERNATIONAL august 2014