Log Book Of the Vessels Good Fortune and Myeerah Being the

Transcription

Log Book
Of the Vessels
Good Fortune2
and
Myeerah
Being the Narrative Journal of All Voyages
In 2006-2010
by
Joan and Peter Fortune
Contents
Trip
Naples, FL to Boca Grande, FL
Naples, FL to Everglades Nat’l Park, FL
Naples, FL to Fort Myers Beach, FL
Naples, FL to St. Petersburg, FL
Naples, FL to The Dry Tortugas, FL
Naples, FL to Nassau, the Bahamas
Nassau, the Bahamas to Boston, MA
Italy’s West Coast: Genoa to Naples
Boston, MA to Falmouth, MA
Annisquam to Tenants Harbor, ME
Newport to Long Island Sound
Cruising Maine
New Year’s Eve Dinner Cruise
Naples FL to Boca Grande FL
Naples FL to the Dry Tortugas
Naples FL to “The Ruins”
Naples FL to “The Ruins”
Naples FL to Everglades City FL
Cruising the Bahamas
Annisquam to Portsmouth NH
Annisquam to Isles of Shoals ME/NH
Cruising Maine with the Naples Yacht Club
Up the Hudson River: Manhattan to Albany
Down the Hudson River: Albany to Tarrytown
Cruising the Caribbean: The Spanish Virgin Islands
Cruising the Caribbean: The US and British Virgins
Naples to Key West with the Naples Yacht Club
Naples to the Dry Tortugas
Cruising the Outer Islands of the Bahamas
Portsmouth, NH to Portland, ME
Cruising the Maine Coast
Cruising Long Island Sound with the Naples Yacht Club
Naples, FL to South Seas Plantation, Captiva Island. FL
Naples, FL to Everglades City, FL
Portsmouth, NH to Castine, ME
Cruising in Maine with the Naples Yacht Club
Norfolk, VA to Beaufort, SC
Dates
Pg
Dec 30, 2005 to Jan 2, 2006
January 15 – 18, 2006
February 1, 2006
February 8 – 16, 2006
March 13 – 18, 2006
April 29 – May 13, 2006
May 14 – June 1, 2006
June 18 – 27, 2006
July 7 – 11, 2006
July 20 – 25, 2006
September 1 – 5, 2006
Sept 26 – Oct 2, 2006
December 31, 2006
January 5 – 8, 2007
February 26 – March 2, 2007
March 22, 2007
March 25, 2007
March 27 – March 29, 2007
May 14 – May 28, 2007
July 8 – July 10, 2007
July 21 – July 23, 2007
August 8 – August 15, 2007
August 28 – September 3, 2007
September 20 – 25, 2007
January 20 - 27, 2008
May 1 – 4, 2008
May 10-14, 2008
May 30 – June 13, 2008
July 17 – 21, 2008
August 22 – 28, 2008
January 12 – 17, 2009
March 10 -12, 2009
April 5 – 10, 2009
May 30, 2009 – June 13, 2009
July 19 – 24, 2009
August 11 – 14, 2009
October 11 – 17, 2009
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403
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457
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Trip
Naples, FL to Everglades City, FL via The Dry Tortugas
Naples, FL to South Seas Plantation, Captiva Island, FL
NYC Cruise to St. Petersburg, FL
Cruising the Bahamas: Harbour Island and the Exumas
Cruising Long Island Sound
To Falmoth, MA
Cruising the Chesapeake with the Naples Yacht Club
NYC Cruise to Boca Grande
Dates
Pg
January 24 – 29, 2010
February 20 – 26, 2010
March 9 – 12, 2010
March 16 – 18, 2010
April 11 – 17, 2010
May 9 – 23, 2010
July 19 – 23, 2010
July 28 – August 3, 2010
August 15 – 22, 2010
October 1 – 9, 2010
December 7 – 9, 2010
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707
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Naples, FL to Boca Grande, FL, MA
December 30, 2005 – January 2, 2006
Captain Ben Wentworth
First Mate Amanda Taylor
Stewardess Erin Fiske
Passengers Peter and Joan Fortune
Total Trip
110 miles, 10 hours running time, 11.0 kts average speed
600 gallons at 60.0 gph
Prologue
We flew down to Naples for the winter on December 26, a peak travel
day. Our private flight (Learjet 35, N721EC) was delayed at Logan for two hours because
of heavy traffic in the Fort Myers area. We filed a flight plan to Immokalee Regional
Airport about 30 miles northeast of Naples. Once in the air, we tried to get a diversion to
Naples but were told that we would have to circle the Naples area for two hours, for
which our fuel supply was insufficient.
As we began our approach to Immokalee we were given a go-ahead for Naples.
Apparently, Sentient, the charter broker, had called the regional controller and gotten
clearance. It was a good thing--unknown to us, the Immokalee airport closed before we
arrived and the gates were locked!
So, after three hours, six minutes and 9 seconds from start-of-roll at Logan to end
of end-of-roll at Naples, we had arrived. It was cool for Florida, but sunny.
The trip to Boca Grande is to spend New Year with the Nicholas’s. We would
take Myeerah and stay at Pete’s Sabrina Fisheries dock next to Hilarium.
Day 1: Friday, December 30
Naples to Boca Grande
5 hrs hrs, 55 nm, 11.0 kts, 300 gallons, 60.0 gph
A late morning start, at 10:30am. It was sunny and windless. We left Gordon Pass
into groundswell from the northwest coming broad on the port bow. It created a slow roll
that gave Joan some nausea, but it was otherwise a comfortable ride. At least our
stabilizers were working!
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At 3:00pm we entered Boca Grande Pass, and by 3:30pm we were backed into the
dock next to Hilarium. The channel has silted in since we were last here, and we saw a
small boat go aground about 10 feet to our port side as we turned around the “7” marker
to go to Sabrina Fisheries. It is new moon so the spring tide is very low.
After docking Joan and I took a long walk. Then we rested and prepared for the
Nicholas’s arrival at 7:00pm. At 7:30pm they and Alice Hollingsworth arrived, and after
a quick drink we went to the Pass Club on Boca Grande Pass. We met Ted and Debby
there, and had a delightful dinner—the “cowboy steak” was the best steak I’d ever had.
By 10:30pm we were back on Myeerah…and so to bed.
Day 2: Saturday, December 31
In Boca Grande
New Years Eve! Awake at 8:30am. It was foggy, cool, and very wet after an early
morning rain. After breakfast we read the New York Times and laid about until 11:00am,
when the Nicholas’s and Lilly’s arrived for a trip to Useppa Island in Fiddler, Pete’s 36
foot Bertram sportfisherman that had been converted into a gorgeous, teak-laden, twinengined open runabout. Doug Coe drove and I helped navigating in the zero-visibility
fog.
We broke out of the fog just as we arrived at Useppa. We walked to the Inn
(newly renovated after 2004’s Hurricane Charlie) and had lunch. Now it was sunny,
warm, and clear. We had a good lunch with brilliant conversation, made lively by a
nearby chimney fire due to an effort to force an osprey to leave a nest built in a chimney.
After lunch the men walked back to Fiddler and the women walked around the island.
At 2:30pm we headed back to Boca Grande. Fiddler cruises at a speedy 28 knots,
and its 14-foot beam and heavy weight give it great stability—a very fine boat, indeed.
Upon returning I took a nap while Joan walked.
At 7:30pm about 15 people arrived at Myeerah for cocktails. Following this we
had dinner at Hilarium, our next-door neighbor. By 11:30pm Joan and I were back on
Myeerah while the Nicholas’s went to a New Year’s Eve party at the Boca Grande Club.
At 1:30am we turned the lights out.
Day 3: Sunday, January 1, 2006
In Boca Grande
Another year starts. It was foggy and wet again. At 10:00am Pete came by and we
left for 9 holes of golf at his Coral Creek Club; Ted Lilly and Jim Curtis rounded out the
foursome. It stayed foggy and was very humid. After a delightful but handicapchallenging round we had lunch and returned home. On the way we dropped by the Coral
Creek airstrip, which was being lengthened from 4800 feet to 6000 feet and widened
from 75 to 125 feet so that Pete’s plane could be accommodated.
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At about 1:30pm we went to Pete’s house where Joan and the other ladies were
gathered. It had started to sprinkle. Joan and I returned to Myeerah and at 3:00pm she left
the slip to anchor outside for the night—we couldn’t have left on Monday until mid
afternoon because of the tides. I followed in T/T Myeerah in heavy rain. By 3:30pm we
were settled between Boca Grande and the Pass.
A nap from 4:00-6:00pm, and at 7:00pm Ginny and Pete arrived in Scout for
dinner. The rain had stopped but there was lightning in the north. At about 9:30pm they
returned to Boca Grande, leaving Alice to return with us to Naples. Joan, Alice and I
watched the last episode of HBO’s Rome. And so to bed…
Day 4: Monday, January 2
Boca Grande to Naples
5 hrs, 55 nm, 11.0 kts, 300 gallons, 60.0 gph
Anchors up at 7:30am. It was sunny but still cool as we headed out Boca Grande
Pass. The trip south to Naples was easy, with 2-3 foot waves coming on the bow. At
12:00pm we reached Gordon Pass. It was a holiday and the channel was extremely
crowded. At 12:30pm we arrived at our slip to find that a boat was in it. While they
prepared to leave we had to hold position in the Gordon River. Little boats would pass
with little clearance and Candy, a 45-foot Azimut, came off the fuel dock right into us,
just avoiding a collision. The amateur driver chided Ben for having no patience.
By 1:30pm we were at home.
Epilogue
A nice and easy trip, filled with good friends, good food, but not-so-good
weather. All is well!
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Page Intentionally Left Blank
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Naples, FL to Everglades Nat’l Park, FL, MA
January 15 - 18, 2006
Passengers Peter Fortune
Alan Keller
John Pearson
George Vyverberg
Total Trip
Prologue
Joan has joined friends at a golf camp in Sarasota for a few days, leaving
me to fend for myself. So this trip was arranged to keep me sane. John Pearson is the
husband of one of Joan’s golfing/bridge friends; he had recently retired from Smith
Barney, Alan Keller is a high school classmate who has moved to Naples after a career at
the World Bank, and George is the chief usual suspects on our boat trips. Our destination
was the Dry Tortugas, to which all but George had been. This was the third time I had
tried to do the trip with George—something always happens to prevent it (that’s called
“foreshadowing”).
A high pressure area (cold front) had moved through Naples the day before the
trip, bringing high west winds in the 30-40 knot range. Fortunately, it was forecast to die
down to the 15-knot level on the trip day, leaving 4-7 foot swells from the north. So it
was a “go.” George would finally get to the Dry Tortugas—or would he?
Day 1: Sunday, January 15
Naples to Everglades City
12 hrs, 110 nm, 9.2 kts, 480 gallons, 40 gph
A late morning start, at about 10:00am. It was cold and sunny, with an unusually
low tide exposing oyster banks I’d not seen before. We slowly moved out of Naples Bay
and exited Gordon Pass. There were breakers almost all the way across the channel, and
we had to stay far to the port side to clear the bottom. At 10:45pm we were clear and
heading south toward The Dry Tortugas. As we got further out from shore, the waves
became about 4-7 feet, mostly swells, on our starboard quarter. John was seasick and he
retired to his stateroom for the rest of the day.
At about 2:30pm, 50 nm from the Dry Tortugas (60 miles from Naples), the port
engine oil pressure dropped suddenly and the oil pressure alarm sounded. The engine was
shut down and Ben investigated the cause. It appeared that the rear main bearing seal had
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broken and oil was gushing from the crankcase. We had known that there was a minor
leak but had been advised by our MAN engine mechanic to delay any replacement until
major engine work was underway. That time had come!
So, on the starboard engine only—and without stabilizers, which are cooled by
the port engine—we diverted to the anchorage at Russell Pass a few miles from
Everglades City. It is easy to get into at night, has plenty of water, and was the same
distance as the Dry Tortugas. It also leaves a shorter trip to return to Naples. We will stay
there for tomorrow and return to Naples on Tuesday or Wednesday.
At 10:00pm we arrived at the anchorage in Everglades National Park: a perfectly
calm bowl of water under a clear starlit sky. We had had dinner, had watched West Wing,
and had rocked along for 12 hours before our arrival. And so to bed…
In Everglades National Park
Awake at 8:00am to a sunny sky, warmer than yesterday but still nippy for
Florida. After breakfast we fished off the aft deck, catching one small catfish and one
large pelican. Then Alan, George and I took T/T Myeerah down Russell Pass for a couple
of miles until it got shallow; John stayed aboard and read. We saw a flock of white
pelicans, which, Alan informed us, differ from the brown pelicans in their fishing
methods: the browns dive on fish, while the whites sit in shallow water and wait for fish
to come by. The whites clearly have higher IQs!
We then went out to Indian Key and caught a crab (actually, it caught us), after
which it was back to Myeerah to prepare for a tender ride into Everglades City for lunch.
At 12:00pm we departed for a fast ride into Everglades City, with Alan at the helm of T/T
Myeerah. After lunch (George had a high-salt fish stew, the rest had grouper sandwiches)
we toured the channels on the back side of the city. By 3:00pm we had returned to
Myeerah.
Ben and I planned our return to Naples. Normally a simple task, this was
complicated by the fact that we had no port engine and no stabilizers. The port engine
could be used very briefly to dock, but we had to do that at high and slack tide because
the current at the dock can be swift and we had only a brief time with both engines
operating. That meant we had to dock at about 2:00pm on Tuesday or at 2:30pm on
Wednesday. The 45 miles would take about 6 hours on one engine (at 7½ knots), so we
wanted to leave at 8:00am on Tuesday or 8:30am on Wednesday. On Tuesday the wind
would be 15-20 knots from the southwest, putting the seas on our port quarter—a
position that would be uncomfortable without stabilizers. A cold front would come
through on Tuesday night and Wednesday’s winds would be from the north, directly on
our bow, also at 15-20 knots. While that might create some pitching, it would avoid
nausea-inducing rolls. So it looked like Wednesday would be the day to return.
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At 5:00pm Ben gave me the good news that after conversations with Peter Angel
at Marine Diesel Specialists, and inspection of break-apart diagrams of our MAN
engines, he had concluded that our engine problem was not the rear main bearing seal.
Instead it was a gasket in the oil cooler—a much easier thing to fix. After this good news
I took the tender and trolled with ballyhoo for fish—it was the wrong bait, intended for
grouper that like rocks and reefs rather than open sandy bottoms—so I had no success.
At 6:00pm, sunset time, I returned to the boat and enjoyed appetizers and drinks
with Alan, George and John. At 6:30pm we sat down to a fine dinner of pork and noodles
with fine wines provided by John. After dinner we watched a 2 hour season opener of 24.
John had bailed out early, but Alan and George watched until the end at 10:00pm. And so
to bed…
Day 3: Tuesday, January 17
In Everglades National Park
Up at 8:00am, the wind was about 20-25 knots and clouds were coming in as a
cold front approached. I had left both rods out with ballyhoo in the water, and something
had eaten the bait but missed the hooks.
Before the market opened Boston Scientific had announced a large increase in its
bidding against J&J for Guidant: from $73 per share to $80. Having taken a sizable
position in GDT a few days ago, I had to decide whether it was time to sell it. John called
his colleague at Smith Barney, and I called my trader at Schwab. The bet was that J&J
would give up. So I put a limit order to sell at $77.50 (the price was about $76.26) and
decided to wait.
We sat around reading all morning, then at noon we took the tender to
Chokoloskee for lunch. The early clouds had given way to sunny skies, but a southwest
wind at 20 knots threw up chop in the bay and we couldn’t read the water depth. After a
long slow ride we reached Chokoloskee, but we kept churning up mud and couldn’t find
a place to dock. Apparently, the direct route to Chokoloskee is not navigable at low
tide—instead, one should go under the causeway connecting Everglades City and
Chokoloskee, then proceed along an inside passage. But that is charted at 1-2 feet deep,
so maybe you just don’t boat to Chokoloskee.
So at 1:30pm, after a lot of slow and wet travel, we went to Everglades City and
ate at the Café Thanks-a-Lot, located near the airboat docks. It was good fried food, and
the people were very nice—after lunch they took me in the golf cart to a gas station to get
several gallons of oil for Myeerah. Then it was a short and fast ride back to Myeerah.
By 3:30pm we were back on the boat resting from our exertions. At about
5:00pm Alan and I went fishing—trolling with lures along the mangrove banks. It was
beautiful, with the lowering sun shining on the mangroves, and a complete quiet. Only
one other boat was anchored within a mile. Who cared if a fish was caught?
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At 6:00pm, just as the sun set, we returned to the boat. After watching the national
news we had dinner. Then John retired and George, Alan, and I watched Commander in
Chief and Boston Legal. At 11:00pm George and Alan went to bed and I sat on the aft
deck for a while. The wind had died down and there was a full moon, You could hear the
dolphin blowing, and occasionally you could see them break water. All the world seemed
at peace.
And so, at midnight, to bed…
Day 4: Wednesday, January 18
Everglades Nat’l Park to Naples
7 hrs, 45 nm, 6.4 kts, 280 gallons, 40 gph
Awake at 8:00am--again. The sky was gray and a very light rain was falling. The
forecast was for 20-25 knot winds from the north, and 3-5 foot seas. It was low tide, so
our exit was extremely slow and we dragged the bottom at one point. At 8:30am we
reached Indian Key, the outermost land in the Everglades City channel. We still had as
little as 6 inches of water under us, so we were idling along on our one engine.
After Indian Key we headed west to clear the shoals. With a brisk wind from the
north, we had seas on our starboard beam and so we turned the stabilizers on to reduce
the roll; the stabilizers could be left on only for a short time without cooling by the raw
water ump that runs off of the dead port engine. We traveled very slowly because there
was not much water under us. At about 10:30am we turned north toward Naples. We had
cleared Cape Romano Shoals and the wind went to a steady 40 knots, with 5-7 footers
fine on our port bow. It was a bumpy trip indeed, and we could not have gone much
faster that the 7-8 knots we were doing, even with both engines.
At 3:00pm we turned into Gordon Pass. There were huge breakers on our port
stern, so Ben turned the port engine on for a few minutes to help in controlling the beast.
Once safe, we proceeded slowly to our slip and Ben expertly put us bow in at 3:30pm.
Epilogue
This was another of those unplanned surprises in boating. Unable to get to the Dry
Tortugas, we went to another peaceful and pleasant area. True, engine problems occurred,
but they had a bright side. We had a relaxing time together, with good conversation. It
was a low stress and very good time. We visited Everglades City (the next Florida
metropolis) and even viewed the lonesome village of Chokoloskee, where the men are
men and, I suspect, the sheep are nervous.
For my money, if Joan is going to leave me bereft and alone, this is the very best
way to spend the time. Alan, George and John were fun to be with, and notwithstanding
the engine problem, all went well.
400
Naples, FL to Fort Myers Beach, FL
February 1, 2006
George Vyverberg
Total Trip
Prologue
This is a one day excursion to get diesel fuel. The price in Naples is $2.67 per
gallon, but it is $2.30 at the Fort Myers Beach dock that services commercial boats.
Day 1: Naples to Naples via Fort Myers Beach
60 nm, 6 hrs, 10.0 kts
George and I met at the Naples Boat Club at 9:00am. It was sunny and warm, with very
light wind. The tide was unusually low—about 6 inches below the mean low low tide. At
9:30am we left the dock and inched out of Naples Bay. By 10:15am we were exiting
Gordon Pass.
Turning northward we had a north wind with some chop and slight swells. It was
delightfully sunny. As we approached Fort Myers Beach we had some excitement. A boat
about 30 feet in length approached us rapidly from behind. It was a Homeland Security
boat with four 250HP outboards and four men. We stopped and they asked innocuous
questions (where from, day’s destination, where to eventually). They were simply curious
about the boat and were covering their asses by pretending to be on business.
At 12:30pm we arrived at the fuel dock and had lunch. It took 2½ hours to refuel
and we were on our way at 3:00pm. The ride south was even better than the northbound
leg. At about 5:30pm we arrived at Gordon Pass, and at 6:00pm we were at the dock.
Epilogue
We used 180 gallons on the round trip, a cost of $415.80. The saving on the 1885
gallons we purchased was $678.60. So we had a beautiful day on the water, a relaxing
experience and we saved $262.80.
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February 8 - 16, 2006
Jack Curtin
Ted Ongaro
Woody Ives
Total Trip
Prologue
This is the Third Annual Spring Guy Golf Trip, the second on Myeerah. Joan’s
friends are visiting in Naples, leaving their spouses alone and bereft. So we are going to
St. Pete, then Boca Grande, for golf. Jack and Ted will meet Myeerah in St.Pete so I will
go up on her alone. Woody will meet us on February 13 at Boca Grande. We will return
th
to Naples on the 16 .
Day 1: Wednesday, February 8, 2006
Naples to Boca Grande
5 hrs nm, 55 nm, 11.0kts
At 10:00am Ben picked me up at the house and drove me to the Naples Boat
Club. It was sunny but quite cold. The wind was forecast to be from the north at 10-15
knots. In fact, it was blowing at 25-30 knots. Where do they get the meteorologists? Ben
suggested that we should take one captive and tie him on the bow of the boat to
experience reality.
We left the dock at 10:30am, and I guided the vessel expertly out through Naples
Bay. At about 11:15PM we exited Gordon Pass and turned northward. I read some
professional stuff and relaxed while Ben and Amanda handled Myeerah. The trip was
uneventful. At 3:30pm we arrived at Boca Grande and anchored just outside the channel.
The wind remained at 25-30 knots and it was cold.
At about 6:30pm I had a great dinner—tomato basil soup, Cornish game hen, and
apple pie a la mode. At 7:30pm I watched TV for a while, including, starting at 9:00pm,
The Name of the Rose, the Sean Connery movie based on Humberto Ecco’s famous book.
Then, At 11:45pm, to bed…
403
Day 2: Thursday, February 9, 2006
Boca Grande to St. Petersburg
7½ hrs, 85 nm, 11.3 kts
Not a great sleep last night. I think tonight I’ll sleep with Mr. Ambien. I was up at
8:00am with the starting of the engines and a huge wake from a passing party boat intent
on giving its passengers a close look. It was warmer than yesterday, but still cool. The
wind had died down to the predicted 10-15 knots.
At 8:30m we were exiting Boca Grande Pass into the swells thrown up by the
silting of the channel. The wind had risen to 15-20 knots in the Gulf and the seas were a
bit lumpier than yesterday. Ben spent much of the morning trying to figure out why
generator #2 was tripping the power converter. It had been doing that very infrequently
for a couple of years but since we had it “fixed” a few days ago it was doing it all the
time. That’s progress in the boating world: we were told by the technician that this was
good news: now that it was a constant problem they could properly diagnose it! Do I
detect the smell of rot drifting over from Denmark? Or is it simple American bullshit?
By lunchtime at 12:30pm we were steaming northward at a rocket-like 12 knots,
gulping fuel and having a grand time. The wind died down a bit and the ride got easier.
At about 3:30pm we arrived at Tampa Bay and at 4:00pm we settled into our face dock at
the St. Petersburg Yacht Club. Allie, the cheerful SPYC dockmaster, greeted us and told
us the drill (the gate combination is a Homeland Security-level code—2222)
After reading for a while, I joined myself at 7:00pm on the aft deck to listen to
some country music and wait for Ted and Jack to arrive. At 7:45 they arrived bright and
fresh. A few minutes of settling in, and we sat down for appetizers and drinks. By
8:30pm it was a dinner of pasta and veal, very good, indeed. Then to bed…
Day 3: Friday, February 10, 2006
In St. Petersburg
Thank you, Mr. A. Up at 8:30am to a nice breakfast. Ted had arranged golf at a
TPC course in Tampa. So at 10:00 am we left on a 45 minute drive. We were an hour
early for our 11:53 tee time so that Ted and Jack could practice. Our tee time was delayed
because of congestion and some confusion, but at 12:10 we were on our way.
This TPC course was preparing for an Outback Steakhouse tournament. For us
this meant “Cart Path Only.” The course was not that great, rated at less than the Weston
Golf course’s difficulty and not very interesting. But it had a lot of water. After 4½ hours
I had experienced the best and the worst of times—some truly great moments, some truly
bad moments. I ended with a score of 100 but with eight penalty strokes. It was as good
as I could hope for, but wouldn’t it be nice to put all those good holes together into one
round? And what about all those penalties? Even so, I won on skins so I da man!
404
We finished at 4:30pm and spent 45 minutes at the 19 th hole. By 6:30pm we were
back on Myeerah. At 7:00pm we met in the salon for appetizers and drinks. Then a very
fine dinner of grilled salmon and fine conversation. By 9:00pm we were in our rooms.
And so to bed…
Day 4: Saturday, February 11, 2006
In St. Petersburg
Up at 8:00am to a nice breakfast. It was sunny but a cold front was predicted with
rain in the afternoon. At 9:00am we began the 1¼ hour drive to World Woods, a famous
two-course facility north of Tampa. At 10:45am, following a wrong exit from the toll
road with its consequent delay, we arrived. It had clouded up.
We played the Pine Barrens course, which had broad fairways, lots of pine trees,
and huge waste areas that had been blasted out during WWII when the area was used for
bombing practice by B-17s. The play was complicated by high winds that blew the sand
in the waste areas around. It was covered with pines, and was barren except for the
fairways and greens—a well-named course. The greens were large and undulating, a real
challenge. It was a beautiful course, each hole delightful to the eye.
As we finished the seventh hole some rain began to spit, and near the end of the
ninth hole the skies opened up. We finished the ninth and fled for the clubhouse. In spite
of a weak score of 51 on the first nine, I was happy with my play. I drove well off the
tees and had good second shots, but I lost it in the putting (a three putt on almost every
green). I had changed my grip yesterday and it had made a big difference! In fact, I was
the day’s cash winner. I still da man!
Ted arranged a credit for the second nine and we got a tee time at noon on Sunday
on Rolling Oaks, the second course. After lunch we packed up and left for the long ride
to St. Pete. At 3:30pm we were back on Myeerah. After some down time we met at
6:15pm for appetizers, and by 7:00pm we were dining on Caesar salad, chicken sausage
and flavored pasta, and a large nectarine tart a la mode. The conversation was golf and
politics (the second allowed by the right-thinkingness of our trio). At 9:30pm we
disbanded. And so to bed…
Day 5: Sunday, February 12, 2006
In St. Petersburg
Up at 8:00am and upstairs at 8:30am. The sky was leaden, and it was very cold
(about 45 degrees!). At 9:45am we left for the 1¼ hour drive to World Woods Golf Club.
Along the way breaks in the clouds began to appear, and by our 12:00pm tee time the sun
was coming through. But it remained very cold and quite windy throughout our round.
The wind was gusting at 30-40mph, and it never reached 50 degrees. Ouch!!
We played the Rolling Oaks course, which was entirely different from the Pine
Barrens course. Instead of pines there were Live Oak trees bordering the fairways.
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Instead of huge waste areas there were large sand traps in abundance. The fairways were
lusher, and some holes were exquisite as they meandered up and down hills. I finished
with a 97, having had some very good holes in spite of the high wind. Once again, I was
the cash winner. It was a lot of fun for me. I STILL da man!
After exactly four hours on the course we went to the pro shop to warm up. Then
we started the drive back, arriving at about 6:30pm. At 7:15pm we met in the salon and
watched the news—the northeast was being hammered by a blizzard with NYC’s Central
Park collecting over 26” of snow, the largest snowfall in its recorded history. Boston was
getting about 15 inches.
At 8:00pm we sat down to a dinner of veal, mashed potatoes, string beans and
coconut custard pie. This is not half bad! At 9:30pm we each retired. And so to bed…
Day 6: Monday, February 13, 2006
In St. Petersburg
The original plan was that Ted and Jack would drive to Boca Grande, playing golf
around Sarasota. I would go with Myeerah to Boca Grande and meet them. Woody would
also arrive in Boca after dropping Elizabeth off at our house. But the weather forecast
was threatening—6 to 10 foot seas in coastal waters driven by several days of 20-25 knot
northwest winds. So we decided to stay in St. Pete and play another round of golf.
Tuesday would be our day to move.
Up at 8:00am and, again, an 8:30ish breakfast. At 10:00am we started off to
Waterlefe Golf and River Club in Bradenton. By 11:30am we were on the hardest course
I’ve ever played. Winding through a new residential area, this course has miles of water
and marshes. Designed for target golf, balls roll into one or the other if not placed in the
center of the fairway. Several holes are blind, with trees or grasses obscuring the greens.
One par 3 has a small green with very little area around it that is situated across 150 yards
of high growth—you can barely see the flag. I had a 57 on the first nine, and I gave up
th
th
after the 13 hole where I lost 3 balls, having lost 4 on the 12 . To cap it off, the high
winds continued. Needless to say, I NOT da man!
At 5:30pm we were back on Myeerah. I FTD’d Valentine’s Day flowers to the
ladies in Naples, and at 6:15pm we met in the salon for appetizers. After dinner, at
9:00pm, we watched 24. And so to bed…
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Day 7: Tuesday, February 14, 2006
St. Petersburg to Boca Grande
7½ hrs, 85 nm, 11.3 kts
Up at 7:30am to a sunny but very cold Valentine’s day. At 8:15am Ted and Jack
left for golf at Waterlefe, and at 8:30am I backed Myeerah out into the SPYC turning
basin, then headed out the breakwater for the trip to Boca Grande. The 5-10 knot wind
that had been forecast was moving at 15-20 knots, but it was from the east so the ride was
comfortable.
At 4:00pm we arrived at Boca Grande. As we entered the channel into the harbor
we watched a small sailboat heading inexorably toward the shallow water which was
very visible but he wasn’t paying attention. He went aground as we passed him on the
deep water side. It didn’t seem to faze him—it must happen all the time.
At 5:00pm Woody Ives arrived, and at 5:30pm Jack and Ted came aboard having
had a wonderful time losing golf balls. Ted reported that he had five pars and a birdy and
still scored over 100! It was the best of times…it was the worst of times. I called Joan to
wish her a happy Valentines Day and to find out that our flowers had not been
delivered—so much for FTD.
At 6:30pm we met in the salon. After an hour of appetizers, drinks, and
conversation we sat down to a dinner of mahi-mahi. At 9:00pm Ted, Jack and Woody
watched the Olympics downhill skiing while I went to my room and watched House and
Boston Legal. And so to bed…
In Boca Grande
Up at 7:30am to a sunny and cool morning. After breakfast Ted and Jack took
Woody on a tour of Gasparilla Island. They returned at 11:00am and we set out for the
Coral Creek Club, where Jack had arranged, through a club member, for us to play golf
with a pro and two forecaddies. We had lunch and an hour of practice, then we teed off at
1:15pm.
It had warmed up nicely and the course is always in perfect shape. We played the
members tees, which are rated at 70.8/131 (as opposed to the much harder course at
Waterlefe that was rated at only 69.9/124. We played very slowly, in part because the
three staff members created congestion and their abundant—and very helpful—advice
th
chewed up minutes on each hole. At 6:00pm we finished in a disastrous 18 hole, and at
6:30pm we were back at the boat.
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I called Joan to find that the flowers had still not arrived. At 7:15pm we met for
drinks and dinner. After dinner we watched the Winter Olympics for a while. And so to
bed…
Boca Grande to Naples
5 hrs nm, 55 nm, 11.0kts
At 9:00am Ted, Jack and Woody left for golf at the Gasparilla Inn. It was warm
and sunny with light winds when Myeerah left Boca Grande at the 11:30am high tide.
Just before we left, Pete, Ginny and their grandson, Jack, arrived to say hello. They had
just flown back from the Virgin Islands, and were about to head down to St. Martin
tomorrow.
The ride to Naples was uneventful—warm, sunny, and smooth. Myeerah and I
arrived at 4:00pm. Woody, Ted, and Jack arrived by car just as Myeerah settled into her
slip. Woody arrived at 5:00pm and we waited for Jack. He didn’t arrive so I called Joan
to find that he had led Ted, who had picked up a rental car at the Naples airport, to our
house. Jack arrived at the boat at 6:00pm as `Woody and I were leaving for the house.
Arriving at 6:20pm, we sat down to hors d’ouevres. Jack arrived and we all went
th
to Nektars, a restaurant on 7 Ave South. After an excellent meal Woody, Jack and I
returned to Myeerah and Ted went home with the ladies. At 10:30pm I was reading in my
room while Jack and Woody watched the Olympics. And so to bed…
In Naples
Up at 8:00am for breakfast. Ted and Katy had left early to go to a Palm Beach
exhibit in which Katy’s work was shown. At 9:00am Ben went to the house and brought
Tarhé to the Boat Club. At about 10:00pm Woody and I picked Jack and Nancy up in
Tarhé and we took a lunch cruise to Little Bar in Goodland. It was a beautiful day, so
we came back on the outside, arriving home at about 2:30pm.
Nancy and Jack then left to drive up to Boca Grande for a few days. Joan, the
Ives’s and I went to dinner at the Port Royal Club. On returning home we sat down to
watch some Olympics and heard a loud boom then our lights went out. A transformer had
blown and about three houses were without power—lucky us! The others went to bed and
I went to sleep on the boat because I needed power for my CPAP machine. At 2:00am the
lights came back on.
On Saturday the Ives’s left and the trip was over
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Epilogue
This was a great trip. The weather didn’t cooperate in the beginning, but it ended
on a much better note. I had five days of gold—Jack and Teddy played seven straight
days. The course were` very different, and, all in all, it was a good experience. We all got
along well, not a surprise but always a pleasure.
Myeerah worked well, and, as usual, Ben, Amanda and Erin made the trip very
comfortable and tasty.
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March 13 - 17, 2006
Passengers Peter, Joan and Smidgen Fortune
Total Trip
257 miles, 21½ hours running time, 12.0 kts average speed
Prologue
We’ve been in Florida for 10 weeks and five of those have been entertaining
family or friends. Each visit has been fun and well worthwhile, but cumulatively it has
been a tiring time. Michele, Thom, Riley and Tessa returned to Boston yesterday after
two weeks, and Joan and I decided to get away from it all. Our destination is the Dry
Tortugas. We planed to start out at 10:00am on Monday, March 13. But upon arriving at
Myeerah we were told that one of our five starting batteries had died and that we would
have to wait for Ben to find a replacement. In addition, the 10-15 knot southeast wind
that had been forecast was coming in at 20-25 knots. So, given our new ETA at Fort
Jefferson at about 8pm, and the likelihood of lumpy seas, we decided to go to Everglades
City and then to the Dry Tortugas the next day.
Our new passenger, Smidgen Fortune, is a four-month old Yorkie-Schon. This
was Smidgen’s first ride on Myeerah, and we were a bit anxious about how she would
take to the motion and noise of a boat.
Day 1: Monday, March 13, 2006
4 hrs, 42 nm, 10.5kts
We left the Naples Yacht Club at 12:15pm, with the wind gusting to 30 knots. By
12:45pm we had exited Gordon Pass and were heading southward. It was very warm and
sunny. Keeping close to the mainland put us in the lee and made for a very comfortable
ride. Smidgen quickly adjusted to the boat, sniffing everything out and finding new
things to chew. She even went to the bathroom in the socially approved area—but more
on this later.
At 3:00pm, after clearing the Cape Romano Shoals, we turned eastward toward
Indian Key. Both Joan and Smidgen were asleep in the salon. At 4:15pm we arrived at
Indian Key and anchored. At 6:15pm we had our appetizers and wine, and at 7:00pm,
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after the 6:30pm sunset, we had a good dinner of Orange Ruffy, Spanish rice and steamed
spinach.
At 8:00pm Joan went to take a shower and I watched some reruns of past March
Madness basketball games. From 9:00pm to 10:00pm it was a frantic hour of
counterterrorism on 24. And so to bed…
Day 2: Tuesday, March 14, 2006
Everglades City to The Dry Tortugas
9 hrs, 104 nm, 11.6 kts
Up at 8:00am after a poor night’s sleep. At 3:00am my sleep machine had shut off
because of a chronic problem with our #2 generator—sudden voltage drops when a load
comes on cause the converter, which gives us 110V AC power, to shut off. By 4:00am it
was corrected but there was a restless night ahead.
At 9:00am we left our anchorage off Indian Key and headed for The Dry
Tortugas. It was warm and sunny, with light winds, as we headed southwest. Because
Everglades City is southeast of Naples the mileage is almost exactly that of the direct
route from Naples to The Dry Tortugas.
The ride was very gentle, thank goodness, because we had to shut down the
stabilizers. It appears that the port-side fin has worn in its fitting and is pushing the
hydraulic rams and their devices around. The result is that some water is leaking in and
the fin makes terrible noises as it pushes the equipment around. Let’s see: on this trip
we’ve had battery failure, calling for a change of all 14 batteries (five starting and nine
service); the recurrence of the #2 generator problem, which shuts down all 110V AC
power, failure of the internet/satellite phone system; and the stabilizer problem (again).
It’s been a good day!
All in all it was a lazy day. We read, I worked on my week-long project to finish
the New York Times crossword puzzle, and we watched Smidgen, whose bowels seem to
have lost their keen sense of direction to the Puppy Pads. On the ride we had to stop and
lie-to twice, once to center the stabilizer fins and once to let Ben dive to cut
polypropylene line from the starboard propeller. Even so, at 6:00pm we reached Fort
Jefferson. We searched around for a spot in the harbor and, as the sun set, dropped anchor
outside the harbor. Then we kicked back with our appetizers and drinks. Boating might
suck when the inevitable mechanical problems come along, but at the end of the day it is
great to sit outside, watch a beautiful sunset, and be with the one you love.
After dinner we watched the first episode of I, Claudius, a DVD of a mid-1970s
PBS series, then it was Boston Legal at 10:00pm. And so to bed…
Day 3: Wednesday, March 15, 2006
At The Dry Tortugas
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Today is the Ides of March, the anniversary of Julius Caesar’s murder at the
Roman Senate. Up at 9:00am to a cloudy sky with brisk wind. We rocked and rolled a bit
at anchor, so after breakfast we dropped T/T Myeerah and Joan and I scouted out spots to
anchor in the harbor. We moved in to a spot next to Cold Duck, a 70-foot power boat that
had discouraged us from taking that spot last night, cheering when we gave up trying to
find a spot near them last night—nobody wants neighbors.
I dropped Joan off at the Fort Jefferson beach and scouted around the harbor
while she walked. Hurricane Wilma had changed the real estate. The sand spit connecting
Garden Key (where Fort Jefferson lies) and Bush Key (the sooty tern sanctuary) had been
created several years ago by a storm, closing the main channel into the harbor. That
channel had been restored to a depth of 10 feet! The southern rim of the harbor had been
reefs and low sand bars; the sand bars have gone. The Lord giveth, and the Lord taketh
away!
After lunch we had a slow afternoon. I fished off of Myeerah, catching significant
quantities of seaweed, while Joan read on the bow. In mid-afternoon Abracadabra, a 70foot Sunseeker, arrived and tried to find a spot in the harbor. She ended up out where we
had been anchored the night before. This is the charter boat from Naples that had the
accident a few days ago when it came off a large wave in the Gulf and a passenger, who
had locked his knees, had both knees shattered when the boat slammed down. Yuck!
Then a nap, and at 5:30pm I went up to the aft deck for some more seaweedcatching. We had a wonderful dinner: a Tahitian soup with shrimp, Erin’s concoction)
and grilled Florida lobster tails on egg noodles. Then two episodes of I, Claudius. And so
to bed…
Day 4: Thursday, March 16, 2006
At The Dry Tortugas
Up at 8:30am and breakfast at 9:00am. The wind has shifted to the east and it is
sunny and warm. Smidgen is still not oriented to her Puppy Pads--sometimes they seem
to get in the way when she has to go and we call it a success, but other times she just
finds a spot convenient to her and we note a failure. Still, we’re hopeful!
Today Joan must call the Port Royal Club to get reservations for 12 for the Easter
brunch. But, of course, all three of our phone systems have failed: the cell phone is out of
range, and both the main satellite phone and the backup satellite phone are not
functioning. The common element for the satellite phones (and the internet) is a
communications box that probably has failed.
Ben went in to Fort Jefferson to see if he could use a Park Service phone, but it
also is not working well and they asked him to come back later. At 11:00pm he returned
and did get a line out to make reservations. All’s well that ends well, so they say.
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After a 1:00pm lunch Joan and I took the tender to Loggerhead Key, about 5
miles to the west. A 20 knot wind from the east was kicking up waves, but it was a
following sea and reasonably comfortable. Our first destination was the shipwrecks south
of the key, where we trolled for fish. After the fish were well fed, taking two Ballyhoo
without even a fight, we tried to get onto the beach at Loggerhead Key but the surf was
too high. So we returned to Myeerah, taking a slow and tedious ride directly into the
waves.
Arriving at about 4:00pm we rested, read, and watched Smidgen until 6:00pm.
Then we watched the sunset and had dinner. Two more episodes of I, Claudius followed.
And so to bed…
Day 5: Friday, March 17, 2006
The Dry Tortugas to Naples
110 nm, 8½ hrs, 12.9 kts
St. Patrick’s Day—my mother’s wedding anniversary (to my now-deceased
stepfather). With Erin’s guidance, the crew wore green. The engines started early, at
7:00am, and we were quickly on our way to Naples. It was sunny and warm with almost
no wind. A slight swell on our beam gave us some roll because our stabilizers weren’t
operating, but it was very comfortable.
After breakfast on the aft deck, we lolled around and read. We were making very
good time—a blistering 13.5 knots—because we were light on both fuel and water.
Lunch at 1:30pm, arrival at Gordon Pass at 3:00pm, and at the dock by 3:30pm. The only
noteworthy event was that as we reached the latitude of Marco Island two dolphins
leaped high out of the water in near-perfect unison, then cavorted in our wake.
.
Epilogue
This trip was blessed with good weather and an opportunity to be together without
distractions. We both enjoyed it thoroughly, especially the two full days at Fort Jefferson.
But we were cursed by numerous system problems. As a result, tomorrow Ben
and Amanda will take Myeerah to Miami where she will be hauled out so the stabilizers
can be repaired. At that time the other problems will also be taken care of—fingers
crossed.
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Naples, FL to Nassau, the Bahamas
April 29 – May 13 , 2006
Charlie and Jane Gaillard
Total Trip
608 nm, 54 hours running time, 11.3 kts, 2,970 gallons at 55.0 gph (Myeerah)
608 nm, 34¾ hours running time, 17.5 kts, 500 gallons actual, 14.4 gph (Tarhé)
Prologue
Well, another Florida winter has passed and its time to move the boats north. We
decided to start with a visit to the Bahamas with the Gaillards, taking both Myeerah and
Tarhé. Tarhé would serve as the day boat in the shallow Abacos Islands, while Myeerah
would be a more stationary hotel. In mid-May (two days before her birthday) Joan would
fly back to Boston on May 13 just after John McGlennon arrived in Nassau to crew for
the long trek back to Boston. Dick Kopcke plans to join us in Charleston and depart in
Norfolk.
Myeerah left Naples on Thursday, April 27. She stayed in Key West that night,
taking on 2000 gallons of fuel, and then she traveled on Friday to our meeting spot at the
famous Ocean Reef Club on Key Largo. Her trip from Naples to Ocean Reef covered 210
nautical miles and took 18 hours
Day 1: Saturday, April 29, 2006
Naples to Ocean Reef Club, Key Largo FL
8½ hrs, 150 nm, 17.6 kts (Tarhé)
Charlie and I left Naples in Tarhé at 8:30am. It was sunny and warm with a strong
20-knot wind from the east. From Gordon Pass to Cape Romano we were close to land
and protected from the wind. But as we got to the Ten Thousand Island area the fetch
increased to over 20 miles and we had hard seas on the beam. It was sufficiently
uncomfortable that we headed eastward to get in the lee of the coast, after which we
followed the coastline to Cape Sable. Other than the lumpy seas there was nothing
noteworthy on this leg except for a manta ray that leaped out of the water in front of us.
At noon we reached Cape Sable and anchored for ½ hour off of Middle Cape. We
had an outstanding lunch of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches—Charlie considered them
the best he’d ever had! Our only companions were huge flies that had been waiting for
our arrival. They were hungry too!
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At 1:00pm, we set off into Florida Bay. It was 25 miles until we got close enough
to the Keys to get protection. In that hour and a half we were bouncing around quite a bit.
The strong wind was blowing against the current, generating steep waves. But by 2:30pm
things began to settle down as we turned northeastward along the north side of the Keys.
Along the way we passed through two narrow channels between shoals. At one of them a
sailboat was high aground on a falling tide; it would be a long day for them.
At 4:00pm we reached Ramshead Cut, a wide creek going across the town of
Tavernier on Plantation Key, about 20 miles southwest of the Ocean Reef Club at Key
Largo’s north end. As we traveled along the south side of the Keys we found that it was
easier than expected—being “inside the reef” makes a big difference.
At 5:30pm we entered Ocean Reef Harbor and refueled (118 gallons at $3.46!!).
By 6:00pm we were docked behind Myeerah at the long face dock. Tarhé was covered
with salt, and while Ben and Amanda cleaned it up, Charlie and I showered and cleaned
up also.
At 6:30pm we met on the aft deck for drinks and tasty appetizers then we had
dinner. Charlie went down to bed and I watched the last half of The Barefoot Contessa,
with Ava Gardner—not a great movie but Ava rescued it from oblivion. By 10:00pm I
was in bed and soon it was lights out.
Day 2: Sunday, April 30, 2006
At the Ocean Reef Club, Key Largo FL
Up at 8:00am. We had expected to cross the Gulf Stream today but the wind had
shifted to the northeast and the Stream was forecast to have 10-12 foot seas both today
and Monday. Being stranded at the Ocean Reef Club is far from a disaster, so we decided
to make the most of it.
After a light breakfast we walked around the Marina. There were many pedestrian
boats, some gorgeous boats and a few unusual designs. On the whole, it was the best
collection of boats I’d seen in one place since Myeerah had last been seen alone.
We rented a golf cart and toured the Club grounds. The Ocean Reef Club is an
amazingly large and well-kept development. It has two 18-hole golf courses (one, the
Hammock Course, we would play tomorrow), a number of restaurants, a general
shopping area, an airport with a 4000-foot runway, boutique-style shopping, and all the
amenities you could imagine. The landscaping is beautifully designed and very well
maintained. It is just gorgeous! And it is pricey—we would find that golf for three with
rented clubs, balls, and gloves ran to $900!
After our tour we returned to Myeerah for about an hour, then, at 1:00pm, we
went to the Palm Court Restaurant on the channel for lunch. After lunch we took the golf
cart to see the airport and the cultural center, including the theater and the library. We
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missed the Fitness Center and the Wildlife Center. By 2:30pm we had returned to
Myeerah to read and rest.
At 6:00pm Charlie and I met on the aft deck and enjoyed drinks, appetizers and a
grouper dinner. The no-see-ums arrived and chased us inside where we watched the news
and The Sopranos. And so to bed…
Day 3: Monday, May 1, 2006
At the Ocean Reef Club, Key Largo FL
Up at 7:00am, breakfast at 8:00am. At 8:30pm Charlie, Ben, and I took our rented
golf cart to the Golf Pro Shop where we were signed up for a 10:00am tee time on the
Hammock Course; the hardest of the two courses. After some practice at the driving
range we set out on the first hole—a narrow fairway with water on the right and a street
on the left. This was the pattern for the course: water on almost every hole, no real room
off of the fairways (deep brush, judiciously planted shrubs, etc). Several tees had long
carrys over dense brush to get to the fairway. We lost lots of golf balls—at least 12 on the
front nine. Then Ben began finding balls and we breathed a sight of relief--at least we
wouldn’t run out of balls. I hit the ball well but suffered from the tight layout and
abundant water. On one hole I chipped in from the sand—to save a 6! I did pretty well on
the back nine, breaking 50. Had it not been for at least 10 penalty strokes I would have
had a great day!
At 2:30pm we had lunch at the Raw Bar in the Fishing Village near the marina
(no, it’s not a strip club). By 3:30pm we were back on Myeerah. We immediately
checked the NOAA weather report and found that Wednesday was forecast to be much
better than previously predicted, with 3-5 foot seas in the Gulf Stream—down from the 912 feet experienced on Sunday and today Tuesday. So our plan is to go to Ft. Lauderdale
tomorrow, then, on Wednesday, to take the 70-mile jump over to West End on Grand
Bahama Island. We should arrive there just before Joan and Jane arrive at 3:00pm at the
Freeport airport 25 miles away.
By 4:00pm I was in my room reading and resting for a planned 6:00pm meeting
on the aft deck. I called Joan to find out the news of the day. Smidgen is still showing a
diarrheic stool; this has continued for over a week even after a day of fasting to clear her
system. Now the vet thinks she may have developed an allergy to something in her food,
apparently a common problem. So she’s now on a new puppy food. And I thought we
were through raising children.
At 6:00pm Charlie and I met on the aft deck. By 8:00pm we had finished dinner
(pasta primavera with a great apple tart for dessert), accompanied by no-see-ums. We
flipped through TV channels and read until 9:00pm, when 24 came on. Jack Bauer had
resolved one crisis only to end with another. This show is the gift that keeps on giving!
At 10:00pm we retired. And so to bed…
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Day 4: Tuesday, May 2, 2006
Ocean Reef Club, Key Largo FL to Ft. Lauderdale, FL
55 nm, 5½ hrs, 10.0 kts (Myeerah)
50 nm, 3½ hrs, 14.3 kts (Tarhé)
A morning with no wakeup time. Myeerah would not leave until the checkout
time at 11:00pm, when the tide would be high enough. But still, up at 8:00am to another
sunny day. At 11:00am sharp both boats left Ocean Reef Harbor.
The trip to Fort Lauderdale was uneventful. Tarhé arrived at the Bahia Mar
Marina at 3:00pm after a 2-mile diversion past the Ft. Lauderdale channel to “Birch
Ocean Front,” as Aunt Lonny’s 35-acre estate was called on the charts. All we could see
from the water was a broad expanse of undeveloped real estate on the far side of Route
1A.
We refueled (50 gallons), washed Tarhé down and waited until 4:30pm for
Myeerah to arrive. After cleaning up and a brief respite we had drinks and dinner, then
we watched Scrubs and House until 9:30pm. And so to bed…
Day 5: Wednesday, May 3, 2006
Ft. Lauderdale, FL to West End, Grand Bahama Island, the Bahamas
70 nm, 6 hrs, 11.7 kts (Myeerah)
70 nm, 4 hrs, 17.5 kts (Tarhé)
Crossing the Gulf Stream is almost an art form. The Stream is about 40 miles
wide with an average current of 2½ knots heading northeasterly at 10°.But it runs at up to
6 knots in the 20-mile center. You have to wait for a weather window. If, as in the last
few days, a brisk north wind comes against the north-bound current, high and steep
waves occur and even very large boats wait for the right time.
In addition, if one uses an autopilot to run a straight rhumb line to the destination
fuel will be wasted as the boat will be constantly steering against the strong current. West
End is a bearing of 64° from Fort Lauderdale, but for Myeerah the most efficient path to
West End is to steer a constant heading of 77°; for Tarhé, the faster boat, the best heading
is 72°. This way the current will carry the boats northward to the destination so that the
current is used rather than abused.
So at 8:15am we had breakfast and at 9:00am both boats left Bahia Mar Marina
for the trip across to the Bahamas. Winds were from the northeast at 10-15 knots, but
even in the middle of the Gulf Stream the seas were only 3-5 feet, mostly swells. At
1:00pm Tarhé arrived at West End’s Old Bahama Bay Marina. This is a new marina with
nice docks and good facilities, and with a resort and new housing under construction. It
looks as if it had been barren two years ago and a bunch of development elves had started
to work. It is a major spot for sportfishermen and boats on the way to somewhere else.
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After clearing customs (where do they get all those forms?) and checking in to the
marina, we washed Tarhé and waited for Myeerah. She arrived at 3:00pm and slid into a
spot behind us. One resident said that it looked like Myeerah had had a baby!
Joan and Jane took a private plane from Naples, departing at 2:00pm and
scheduled to arrive in Freeport at 3:00pm. After checking through customs, they had a 25
mile cab ride to West End. There is an airport at West End but we were told that it was
not a Port of Entry and could not be used. They arrived at 5:00pm. At 6:30pm, after they
had cleaned up and unpacked, we went to the sun deck for drinks, appetizers, and a
sunset somewhat obstructed by a house under construction.
Then we had a pork tenderloin dinner—excellent. After this, at about 9:00pm, we
retired to our rooms. And so to bed.
Day 6: Thursday, May 4, 2006
West End, Grand Bahama Island to Great Sales Cay
53 nm, 3hrs, 17.7 kts (Tarhé)
Up at about 8:00pm. We had expected to leave at 9:00am but it was low tide. The
weather report was encouraging: light west winds and calm water. At 10:00pm Charlie
and I got onto Tarhé and went to the basin to get in line for fueling. At 10:30am Myeerah
left, fighting her way through incoming traffic that seemed not to understand what a
narrow and shallow channel means to a big boat.
At 11:00pm Sea Breeze, a 50-foot Hatteras, came in and immediately went to the
fuel dock which had just been vacated. I tried to call the dockmaster to find out why I
was kept waiting but there was no answer, so I went in toward the fuel dock. The
dockmaster went ballistic, asking why I was trying to run the channel. So we shouted at
each other for a minute. It turned out that the boats that had been circling the basin were
waiting for entry, not for fuel, and we hadn’t announced our intentions. To make things
worse, we were on different VHF channels so we hadn’t been able to communicate!
Eventually Sea Breeze left and Tarhé finally got refueled—56 gallons at $3.68 per
gallon—less than in Fort Lauderdale! Finally, at 11:30am, we exited the channel. The
weather report was very wrong--we were head on into strong 25-knote west wind with
six-footers on our bow! After bouncing around badly while we tried to sort out where we
were going, Charlie earned his pay by eventually getting us on a heading through reefs
toward Little Bahama Bank. Once through the shallows we headed northeast toward
Mangrove Cay, then we turned to the east toward Great Sale Cay, where we would meet
Myeerah.
On the way we encountered several “fish muds.” These are large areas with a
milky white color that look like very shallow sand bars. But they are not shallow at all.
They are created by huge schools of bait fish that stir up the sandy bottom. In fact, it was
often deeper in the middle of the fish mud than at the edges!
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At 2:30pm we anchored in Tom Johnson Harbour on the east side of Great Sales
Island and waited for Myeerah. Great Sales Cay is a long low island with nothing on it. It
was a long and boring wait until Myeerah arrived at 6:00pm, anchoring well to the east of
the cay so she could have enough depth to make water. After a frenzied getting-backtogether period, followed by a quick cleanup, we all met on the bow at 6:30pm for the
evening ritual. Erin had made conch fritters, which were amazingly tasty and without the
usual rubbery texture; the conch had been bought fresh from the divers at West End and
she had pureed it. She had also made a mild horseradish sauce for cubes of sweet
Bahamian bread that had been bought from dockside vendors at West End. It was superb!
The sunset at 7:45pm was glorious, and we saw a mild green flash. The wind had
died down so it was very comfortable. Soon after we went to the aft deck for a dinner of
conch pasta. It was very creative, with delightful sweet sauce. Erin sure has a great sense
of tastes!
At 9:30pm we all went to our rooms. And so to bed…
Day 7: Friday, May 5, 2006
Great Sales Cay to Spanish Cay
33 nm, 1¾hrs, 18.9 kts (Tarhé)
Awake at 8:00am after a good night’s sleep. On deck at 8:30am to a light
breakfast of scrambled eggs and conch potato latkes (excellent!). It was very warm with
light west winds and a strong sun. To add to the warm glow it was Cinco de Mayo, the
Mexican Independence Day.
The Travel Committee met to plan the day, and it was recommended that we go to
Spanish Cay off of the northwestern tip of Great Abaco Island. The only voting member
(Joan) supported the motion after little debate. Among its charms is that it has a marina
with enough depth for us.
Spanish Cay is a three-mile long narrow cay with a mile of its western end
serving as a runway. In the 1950s and 1960s it was owned by Clint Murchison, a Texas
oil mogul. In the 1960s it was the venue where Murchison entertained a number of Mafia
figures who, some think, arranged the assassination of JFK (Trafficante, Giancana, etc).
Now it has the Spanish Cay Club, which is comprised of the marina, a restaurant, a store,
and some rooms/condos for rent. The Club is called “Downtown” by the locals, of which
there are three year-rounders. There are lots of opportunities to buy real estate.
But first we lazed around a bit. Joan and Jane swam off the boat, under the
watchful eyes of Ben, Charlie and I—Jaws still has it effects. Then at 11:15am Tarhé
unrafted and started out with all four of us aboard; Myeerah followed. The water was
deep the whole way—about 15-20 feet, and there was a slight following sea. We saw a
number of boats along the way because this is a well charted route down the out islands.
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At 1:00pm we arrived at the Spanish Cay Club’s marina, a collection of gaily
colored buildings. There was a very large Richmond yacht, Status Quo, owned by the
cay’s owner--at 138 feet she dwarfed anything else; she was hull #2, the first hull having
been built by Sovereign Yachts, a yard that went bust and was sold to a new owner who
renamed it Richmond for its location in Richmond, BC. Nearby Slow Dance, a Fleming
55, was docked.
After docking Ben and Amanda took Tarhé to get her fuel topped off (55 gallons)
while we and the Gaillards went to the Pointhouse Restaurant for lunch. This is a bar with
plastic tables and chairs, an island-funky place but with very good food and a charming
young waitress. At 2:30pm, as we finished, we saw Myeerah arrive. She looked huge
until she docked next to Status Quo.
At 3:00pm we rented a golf cart to explore the island. Clearly this island is not
ready for prime time. In addition to the Spanish Cay Club, where the marina is located, it
has a badly paved centerline road, a few small quadriplex condominiums, two or three
decent looking houses, lots of vegetation but no landscaping, and seaweed-covered
beaches. The cay is limestone rock with a thin layer of sand. It is a very downscale
version of Highbourne Cay! High hopes perhaps, but low results.
Just after 4:00pm we returned to Myeerah. I checked email on the club’s wi-fi
network while Joan played with Smidgen and the Gaillards read and rested. At 6:30pm
we watched Status Quo leave for the Ft. Lauderdale Air and Sea Show. Then we gathered
on the sundeck to watch a beautiful sunset. Because it was Cinco de Mayo Erin had
arranged a Mexican theme for our appetizers and dinner. The Gaillards had highly
decorated Margaritas with umbrellas, and for dinner we had refried beans and beef steak
tacos.
At 9:30pm we disbanded. And so to bed…
Day 8: Saturday, May 6, 2006
Spanish Cay to Treasure Cay
Awake at 8:00am after another good night’s sleep. On deck at 8:30am to a light
southwest breeze and sunny warmth. We had a leisurely morning before all four of us
piled into Tarhé for the trip to Treasure Cay after a visit to the Fowl Cay Preserve, a coral
reef area about 15 miles south of Treasure Cay. Because of her draft Myeerah would have
to take a route to Treasure Cay about 15 miles longer than a crow’s flight.
At 11:15am Tarhé left Spanish Cay; Myeerah left at 11:30am. Tarhé had a very
pleasant ride to Fowl Cay, arriving at 1:00pm. Fowl Cay is a low limestone ledge with no
vegetation, surrounded by azure water and, at a distance, coral reefs. We anchored on the
Atlantic side in a sandy bottom near the cay. After our picnic lunch we put the swim rope
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out and both Jane and Joan spent a half hour in the water, comforted by the eagle eyes
their husbands kept out for predators, like other men. At 2:00pm the ladies came aboard
and at 2:30pm we raised the anchor and headed for Treasure Cay.
When we arrived at the channel into the marina we saw Myeerah inching her way
through 7½ foot water, leaving only ½ foot beneath the props; this was at high tide (+2
feet). At 3:30pm she docked at a T-dock with 8 feet at MLW; Tarhé slid into a slip next
to her. Behind us was Osprey, a 2004 Fleming 55 (hull 134), owned by a California
couple who had been at Treasure Cay since January. They had a large fishing boat with
them, and were kind enough to give us some Mahi-Mahi that they had just caught.
After tying Tarhé up, an enterprising young man and his friend offered to wash
Tarhé for $1 a foot. She hadn’t been properly washed in a week, and they would use $36
better than we would. So they went to it.
While Joan and the Gaillards took a walk with Smidgen, I did these notes and
washed up. At 6:30pm we met on the sun deck—again—and just before the sunset we
started dinner on the aft deck. At 9:30pm we retired. And so to bed…
Day 9: Sunday, May 7, 2006
At Treasure Cay (Myeerah)
Treasure Cay to Hope Town, Elbow Cay, and Back
40 nm, 2¼ hrs, 17.8 kts (Tarhé)
Awake at 8:00am after yet another good night’s sleep. On deck at 8:30am and at
9:00am we had a light breakfast. The plan for the day is to take Tarhé to Hopetown on
Elbow Cay, across from Marsh Harbour, for lunch, then to do a driveby of Marsh Harbor
on the return trip.
But first we all took a walk around Treasure Cay with Smidgen. It was warm, and
we found a couple of shops and a residential area near one of the largest and best beaches
in the Abacos, if not all the Bahamas. Treasure Cay is an upscale marina with attractive
condos around it. It seems to be a very nice spot to stay for a while.
At 11:15am we headed for Hope Town, Ben driving Tarhé. We found it to be a
charming area, with narrow golf-cart wide streets, gaily-colored small houses, and the
feel of a real community—the first we had encountered. We ate at a harbor-side
restaurant with extremely casual island ambience but good food. For an hour it rained,
heavily at times; it was the first rain we had experienced for months!
After lunch we walked the streets looking at the houses, some new looking and a
few extremely old and dilapidated. Then we returned to Tarhé and headed back to
Treasure Cay, arriving at about 4:00pm.
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At 6:00pm we met on the sun deck, and by 7:00pm we were having a mahi-mahi
dinner provided by Osprey and cooked perfectly by Erin. At 8:00pm we watched West
Wing, then The Sopranos at 9:00pm. And so to bed…
Day10: Monday, May 8, 2006
Treasure Cay to Marsh Harbour
Up at 7:30pm because Charlie, Ben and I were heading out to deep sea fish. After
a quick breakfast we met Clark and Frank, our fishing guides. We got onto their beatenup 30+ foot cabin cruiser and headed out to the fuel dock, where we fueled up at $4.78
per gallon. Why they couldn’t do it before their trip I don’t know.
At a little after 9:00am we headed out Whale Cay Pass into the Atlantic. The
water depth was about 500 feet. Three lines were dropped: two had baits that skipped
along the water; these were for Mahi-Mahi, Wahoo, and Tuna. The third had a heavy
sinker for Marlin. By 11:30am we had had no strikes—the only thing that hit us was the
sun. I proposed that we co-author a book called Catching Fish: a Good Nap Spoiled.
At 11:30am we went from deep water trolling to trolling for grouper near a reef.
Charlie had several successful hits—successful for the fish because they took the bait
away with no harm to themselves. At the very end Ben caught a barracuda, which Frank
set aside to fry. We had seen him trying to bite into a sandwich with fried meat; it turned
out that he kept and fried all the barracudas that his clients caught. No wonder his teeth
were so crooked!
At 1:15pm we were back at Treasure Cay. We four quickly got onto Tarhé to go
to Green Turtle Cay Club for lunch, after which we would meet Myeerah at Marsh
Harbour. There was a short delay because we had to replace the 150A bus fuse for the
bow thruster. But at about 2:00pm we were on our way. After 45 minutes we reached
Green Turtle Key. The Green Turtle Club is deep in a harbor with several other clubs. At
the Club we saw Adios, a Fleming 75, and a number of other boats in the same size.
Upon receiving permission to dock for lunch we found that the main restaurant
had closed. However, we could—and did—eat at the Pool Bar. The food was not good—
we had cheeseburgers that were so overdone that any mad cow disease would have come
from a cow irritated at giving its life for such a wasted cause. However, the Hot Chicken
Wing appetizers were very good!
After our lunch we walked around the Club. It was a number of small cottages
and a pool, gift shop, etc. Not a lot was going on: There were few customers in sight. For
the Bahamas it was probably upscale, but for nowhere else!
At 4:30pm we headed for Marsh Harbour, a straight 22 mile trip past Treasure
Cay. We arrived at 5:30pm and toured the harbor. Then we headed back northward to
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meet with Myeerah. She arrived at 6:30pm and anchored about a mile from Marsh
Harbour, near an expedition yacht. Tarhé soon rafted to Myeerah and we climbed aboard
to clean up after a long day.
At 7:00pm we met on the sun deck for a beautiful sunset with a slight green tinge
even with a low line of trees in the way. Dinner at 7:30pm was chicken sausage,
excellent. At 9:00pm we watched 24, interrupted by signal problems because we were on
the fringe of reception.
At 10:00pm we retired. And so to bed…
Marsh Harbour to Little Harbour
30 nm, 2¾ hrs, 10.9 kts (Myeerah)
32 nm, 1¾ hrs, 18.3 kts (Tarhé)
Up at 8:30pm after a good night’s sleep, apparently improved (Joan said) by me
occupying the center of the bed. It was our first cloudy day as a weak cold front was
passing through. At 10:00am we took Tarhé to Marsh Harbour, Ben driving. While Ben
fueled up (101 gallons at $3.99) at the Conch Village Marina, we took a walking tour of
Marsh Harbour’s historic waterfront. It is the biggest town on Great Abaco Island and a
resident must experience a vibrant life; but transients need some local knowledge. We
were back in ½ hour hoping for something to do.
At Charlie’s suggestion we decided to investigate the harbor at Man of War Cay,
about 15 minutes across the Sea of Abaco. When we got there we entered a very narrow
passage between two limestone cays. This opened into a long harbor filled with boats at
anchor on the starboard and, on the port side, boats on moorings and tied up at the Man of
War Marina. The place was jumping with activity. Unfortunately, we couldn’t go ashore
because we had insufficient time and because the custom on Man of War Cay is that
“revealing clothing” is not allowed: Joan and Jane would have been deported! So after a
flyby—it really did look like an interesting place—we headed back to Myeerah for lunch.
At 1:00pm we sat down to lunch. At 1:45pm Tarhé cast off and Charlie and I took
the inside route to Little Harbor, 23 miles south. The route was pretty, along numerous
cays and white sand beaches. One cay had a little house in the middle with two large
solidly built gazebos, one at each end. We arrived at Little Harbor at 3:00pm. It was more
developed than I had imagined. Its development began in the very early 1950s when,
Randolph Johnston, an Assistant Professor of Art at Smith College, decided to drop out
and find a remote place to live and sculpt. He, his wife, and his young son came to the
Bahamas. They bought a 47-foot schooner named Langosta in which they explored the
area. When they saw Little Harbor they stopped and stayed. This is a remote peninsula on
Great Abaco with an almost prefect bowl of water for a harbor and deep limestone caves.
The only residents were the lighthouse keeper and his wife.
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For a while the Johnston family lived in a cave in the southwest corner of the
harbor. Eventually they built a house and an art studio, where Randolph sculpted bronze
figures in wax molds. Randolph wrote a well-known book about his life, and he became a
famous Bahamian sculptor. When he died his son, Peter, took over and built Pete’s Bar
from the Langosta’s deckhouse. He then adapted the art studio as the gallery, and
continued his fathers work in wax-molded bronze sculpture.
Today Little Harbor’s central feature is Pete’s Pub and Gallery. The pub is an old
shack with the bar on the sand underneath the shack. It is the epitome of the pub for
island-crazy dropouts or wannabes, with a dilapidated decadence and a large traffic light
decorating its front. Next door is the art gallery that shows and sells bronze sculptures
and gold jewelry.
On arriving we entered the shallow passage into the harbor (3½ feet at MLW) and
entered a 12-foot deep bowl almost circular in shape. Several beaten-up houses were on
the harbor’s port side near Pete’s Pub and Gallery. Other houses dotted the hillside. We
docked Tarhé at a long dock and walked to the gallery. Then we went to the pub and had
a coke while we looked out over the harbor. After this, we went back to Tarhé , toured
the perimeter, and then we went out to scout for anchorages. We decided that a prime
spot was just outside the harbor near Alemar, the same 54-foot Little Harbor sailboat that
Amanda and Ben ran before they came to Myeerah.
At 4:30pm Myeerah arrived. As soon as the anchor settled we rafted up and the
ladies decided to go in to Little Harbor. Ben and Amanda took them in Tarhé. At 5:30pm
they returned, having shopped to their hearts content (the gallery was closed). But they
did stop at the pub, where Jane was chatted up by an island drunk. On returning Joan and
Jane decided to swim off of Myeerah. By 7:00pm both were dressed and ready for dinner
on the aft deck.
At 9:00pm we sat down to see House, but the signal from the Fox channel was too
weak. And so to bed…
Little Harbour, Abacos to Nassau, New Providence
82 nm, 6¼ hrs, 13.1 kts (Myeerah)
98 nm, 5½ hrs, 17.8 kts (Tarhé)—via Royal Island
Up at 7:30am after a rolly night. Swells coming through Little Harbour Bar
created some rocking, but the worst part was that something was rolling around in a
drawer. Poor sleep but what the heck!
When we got on deck it was very cloudy with a squall passing southward in the
distance. It had rained overnight. We had a light breakfast and at 9:15am Tarhé started on
the long route to Nassau—via Royal Island off of Spanish Wells. At 9:30am Myeerah left
Little Harbor Bar for the direct route to Nassau.
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As Tarhé proceeded, following swells built to a few feet at times. When we left
the coast of Great Abaco Island a brisk southeast breeze kicked up the water. But the 2¾
hour and 53-mile ride to Royal Island was pretty comfortable. At 12:00pm we entered the
harbor at Royal Island, keeping the mid-channel rock on our starboard side. Ahead of us
was the abandoned 1920s stone villa that was the only structure on the island. It was built
by a rich Nassau resident for his bride, who did not like the isolation. At served as the
Royal Island Yacht Club for a while, but has been abandoned for decades. If it had been
built of wood it would have returned to nature long ago, but it is still an imposing
structure. Apparently Royal Island was recently bought by a group that plans a resort
with a Greg Norman golf course.
We anchored behind some sailboats just off the villa and had a welcome lunch.
The sun had come out and it was a very nice day. At 12:45pm we continued on our way
to Nassau, passing the famous wreck of the 260-foot Arimora a few miles southwest of
Royal Island. The Arimora was a freighter carrying fertilizer that caught on fire in 1970
in New Providence Channel. She drifted into a small reef near Royal Island and sank. All
that is visible now, 36 years and many hurricanes later, is a section of the bow, badly
rusted and soon to disappear. It has become a must-see for travelers to the Spanish WellsRoyal Island area.
We traveled down the west side of Eleuthra and passed through Fleeming
Channel from the north to the south side of the line of reefs and cays that runs from New
Providence Island to Eleuthra. It was a pleasant and swift ride until we approached the
eastern end of New Providence Island. The channel into Nassau has numerous rocks and
reefs, forcing us to slow to a crawl for several miles. The lack of navigational aids—a
Bahamian tradition—made the navigation difficult.
But at 3:30pm we had cleared through Nassau Harbor Control, a requirement, and
we were standing off of the channel into the Atlantis Marina on Paradise Island. To our
surprise, Myeerah arrived at 3:45pm. She had made a record-breaking 13 knots and had
come in at the easier and faster western end of the harbor. By 4:00pm both boats were
docked-- Tarhé at the very first slip inside the channel and Myeerah at the very last slip,
several zip codes away. Next to Myeerah was the 180-foot Huntress from the Caymans,
available for charter at $250,000 per week. Scott Free, which we have seen in the
Bahamas and Naples, was here.
Now, boys and girls, I will repeat the history of Paradise Island—pay attention! In
earlier years it was called Hog Island and it served as the source of agricultural products
and meat for Nassau. Nassau’s economy was in shambles in the 1960s and the island was
purchased by George Huntington Hartford, the heir to the Great Atlantic and Pacific Tea
Company (A&P), a magnificent wastrel and playboy. On the western end of Hog Island
he bought a magnificent estate called Shangri-La, paying a mere 13 million 1960 dollars.
He radically changed the place, adding its signature piece, The Cloisters, of which more
later. This is now the location of the One&Only Ocean Club, a very posh resort that is
part of the One&Only Resorts group. In 1969 Hartford had Hog Island renamed Paradise
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Island, but a name is not everything. He found that the island’s development was slower
than had been expected. In the early 1980s his estate was sold and became The Ocean
Club. In the 1990s the Star Corporation built Atlantis, which now employs over 6,000
Bahamians and rivals Disneyland as a destination. This livened up Paradise Island and
encouraged other development. Now Paradise Island is a place-to-be. And there you have
it in a nutshell, children.
At 4:30pm Charlie and I arrived at Myeerah, having cadged a ride on one of the
marina’s golf carts. I retired to my room to get out of the sun, which had burned through
my well-sunblocked face. At 6:30pm we met on the sun deck, surrounded by boats that
made Myeerah look like a tender.
At 7:00pm we had dinner, and at 8:30pm Joan and the Gaillards went to the
casino while I stayed on the boat to watch Lost at 9:00pm. And, at 10:00pm, so to bed…
In Nassau, New Providence
Up at 8:30am after a good night’s sleep for me, not so for Joan. We had a late
breakfast and at 10:30am set out to explore Atlantis. Navigating around it was harder
than entering Nassau Harbor, but eventually we circumnavigated the property, seeing the
Casino, the Aquarium, the Mayan Temple with its slides, and the Paradise Lagoon, along
with many separate swimming pools. It proves the adage that “too much is never
enough.” Still, Donald Trump might consider it understated!
At 1:00pm Charlie and I returned to Myeerah while Joan and Jane shopped. After lunch the ladies
went back to pick up their goods, then they went swimming. At 3:00pm I took a two-hour nap—my first of
the entire trip—and at 6:30pm we were on the sundeck watching the world go by. Another fine dinner. And
so to bed…
Today the plan is to go to the Adastarda Zoo and Gardens. At 10:30pm we will
see the Marching Flamingos, then at 11:00am the Parrot Feed. However, my plan to go
was not executed. At 9:30am Ben came back from fueling Tarhé (120 gallons at $3.46) to
report that something was wrong with the jet stick control. So I went with Ben to check it
out while Joan, Jane and Charlie followed the original plan.
The jet drive problem turned out to be an electronic failure that could not be
repaired by us. However, it can be bypassed by using an alternative “get home”
mechanical steering mechanism--so it is not a showstopper; it just will make docking a
bit harder. After this diagnosis Ben and I went to the restaurant just behind Myeerah for
lunch while Amanda and Erin took the afternoon off to go swimming. Then Ben joined
them while I stayed on Myeerah. It had clouded over and a few raindrops were beginning
to fall.
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At 6:00pm we took a cab to the One&Only Ocean Club on Huntington Hartford’s
former estate. Apparently, there are several Ocean Clubs around the world but this is the
one and only One&Only Ocean Club! After walking around the fabulous grounds
between Nassau Harbour and the Atlantic, we climbed the terraces to the Cloisters at the
highest point, from which we could see both the Atlantic and the Harbour. The Cloisters
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is the cloister of a 14 century Benedictine monastery that William Randolph Hearst had
bought in the 1920s during one of his international collection binges (You must have seen
Orson Wells’s Citizen Kane). The structure had been stored in a warehouse until Hartford
bought it in 1962 and rebuilt it on his Paradise Island estate.
At 7:00pm we went to The Dune, the Ocean Club’s restaurant, and had an
absolutely fabulous meal that almost matched Erin’s quality. As the evening wore on the
restaurant filled up with the young and the beautiful; in some cases the very beautiful!
We must have dramatically raised the average age.
By 9:30pm we were back on Myeerah. And so to bed…
This is the last day of our trip. At 2:00pm Charlie flies to Naples and at 3:00pm
Joan and Smidgen fly out to Boston on the same plane with Jane. It was another warm
and humid day, and we had an early breakfast of vegetable and cheese omelets. At
breakfast I gave Joan her birthday presents because I wouldn’t be with her on May 15.
She got a new putter and a pillow saying “I’m Still Hot…but its in flashes now.”
Charlie left for the airport at 10:00am and I left with the ladies at 12:15pm. The
ride to Nassau International was about 35 minutes, and once there Joan had to check in,
go through security, and then go through U.S. customs. We were concerned that traveling
with Smidgen would raise problems. Unfortunately, I could only go as far as the security
gate. So at about 1:00pm we said goodbye.
I waited for an hour to be sure she didn’t come back, then I went to meet John
McGlennon, whose plane arrived at 2:00pm; he would crew for the return to Boston.
John appeared looking fit and happy and we returned together to Atlantis. I had thought
he would play poker in the casino, but he stopped after he lost the magnificent sum of
$100 in one night. He is the consummate Scot!
After a short period we toured Atlantis and the several aquariums. John knows all
the fish by name (George, Hank, etc ) so it was an educational tour for me. We found
an aquarium that we had missed on our first tour with the Gaillards.
At 4:30pm John stayed at one of the Atlantis pools to swim and I returned to
Myeerah for a rest. At 6:15pm we met on the sun deck, and at 7:15pm we sat down on
the aft deck for meal, this time a light one of chicken and rice. At 8:00pm John headed
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off to the casino, and I stayed to get to bed for an early night’s start. And so, at 9:00pm,
to bed…
Epilogue
This was a very good trip—among the best we’ve had with guests. Charlie and
Jane were the perfect guests—socially compatible, great humor, self-sufficient, and just
fun to be with. Charlie was an attentive and expert navigator whose gentle nudging to
keep us off of rocks was very helpful.
The Abacos were a new and interesting destination, and the weather couldn’t have
been better. There were no problems with the boats until the electronic steering failure on
Tarhé, and that happened after the trip was over.
As always, the crew made us proud. They are so professional, yet so pleasant and
involved. They kept things going and made it a relaxing trip—for us.
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Nassau, the Bahamas to Boston, Massachusetts
May 14 – June 1, 2006
Chef, Stewardess and Fog Monitor Erin Fiske
John McGlennon (to Beaufort, NC)
Dick Kopcke (Charleston to Norfolk)
Total Trip
1729 nm, 146¼ hours running time, 11.8 kts, 8044 gallons at 55.0 gph (Myeerah)
Prologue
This will be a less leisurely leg of the return to Boston. Now the pleasant pace and
gentle rides will give way to a pedal-to-the-metal drive to get home. Our first stop in the
U.S will be off the schedule--the Hinckley yard at Stuart, FL, to get Tarhé’s steering
corrected. But first we must exit the Bahamas. We decided to make the first day a long
one: 137 miles from Nassau to West End on Grand Bahama Island. That would leave a
short jump to Stuart for Tarhé.
Nassau, New Providence Island to West End, Grand Bahama Island
137 nm, 7¼ hrs, 18.9 kts (Tarhé)
Up very early at:6:00am for a 7:00am start on the trip to Grand Bahama Island’s
West End. John and I had a light breakfast and then we took the Atlantis Marina jitney to
Tarhé. I have been concerned about this day because of the electronic steering problem
on Tarhé; I had to learn a very different way of manual docking. We left just after
Myeerah, but as we exited Atlantis the report came in that a cruise ship was coming into
the channel so both boats waited for a few minutes until it passed.
At 7:30am we were on our way. The wind was initially from the east, on our
starboard beam; but we only had mild swells. Tarhé headed directly toward the
Northwest Channel light on Great Bahama Bank, a few miles after the Berry Island’s
Chub Cay. As we approached the Bank the depth went quickly from 8,000 feet to 1,500
feet, then suddenly it went to as little as 8 feet—the Bahamas are, after all, the tops of an
undersea mountain range. At the NW Channel light we turned toward Grand Bahama
Island’s West End. Myeerah, on the other hand, went around the Berry Islands, then
turned toward West End. To my surprise, both routes were equal distances.
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As Tarhé crossed the Great Bahama Bank we found that the wind had shifted to
the south to give a following sea. It was comfortable until we passed Freeport on Grand
Bahama Island. At that time we encountered a strong outgoing tide against us with a wind
behind us. The following sea got stronger and our speed dropped from 20 knots to about
18 knots. A huge cruise ship was entering Freeport Harbor and several freighters were
waiting to enter. A Bahamian Defence Forces cruiser was standing off of Freeport. It was
a busy place.
At 2:45pm Tarhé reached the entrance to the Old Bahama Bay marina at West
End. I spent some time traveling down the side channels to practice docking with the
manual method. When I felt comfortable we went to the fuel dock and took on 107
gallons at $3.68. Then we moved to our assigned spot at the farthest end of the very long
face dock, where we docked next to Munich, a brand new 73-foot Outer Reef trawler,
which I hit—gently--in my inexperience with the new ways.
John and I immediately went to the restaurant bar and had two Ka-lik beers each.
Ka-lik is the beer of the Bahamas, and they were very refreshing. The first beers were
Kalik Regulars, but the barmaid said that real men drink extra-strength Kalik Gold, so we
tried that. Then we washed Tarhé and waited for two hours until Myeerah arrived at
6:30pm. Meanwhile, John had gone to the beach and pool to check out the swimming and
the honeys, but I stuck around Tarhé.
When Myeerah arrived at 6:30pm I immediately jumped on board to get the air
conditioning. At 7:00pm John and I sat down for drinks, and at 7:30pm we had a great
dinner of Peruvian potatoes and Rizzle, an Australian mixture of hamburger and
meatloaf. I was badly bitten by no-see-ums, as I had been in West End two weeks earlier.
They seem to go right past insect spray.
The last episode of The West Wing began at 8:00pm, but Ben was good enough to
tape it. At 9:00pm we watched The Sopranos. And then to bed…
West End, Grand Bahama Island to Palm Beach, Florida
111 nm, 6 hrs, 18.5 kts via Stuart (Tarhé)
Awake at 6:00am. It was cloudy with strong indications of rain, and the wind was
reasonably brisk though from the south. When we left at 7:00am we found that the course
to Stuart put a strong following sea on our port quarter, leaving us either stopped on the
crest of a wave or surfing down. So instead of heading northwest we headed due west
toward Palm Beach.
In the middle of the Gulf Stream we were hailed by a Coast Guard cutter and
asked many questions about identity, nationality, ownership, and so on. I was sure that
they were going to board us even in the heavy sea. But they let us continue on our way.
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As we approached Florida the seas calmed down and Tarhé turned northward
toward the St. Lucie Inlet—not an inlet to navigate in dirty weather, but it was fine for us
today. At 11:30am we docked at Hinckley’s Stuart facility. The 77 miles had taken four
hours, an average speed of 19¼ knots.
Immediately a technician came on board and began diagnosing the joystick
problem. Ultimately it was traced to a failure in the onboard computer’s power circuit
board. The joystick was operating correctly but the computer wasn’t sensing its signals.
A new circuit board and at 1:30pm we were on our way to meet Myeerah at the Rybovich
Shipyard in Palm Beach. The distance along the coast was only 28 miles, but the wind
had picked up and we were crashing into waves. We decided to enter the Jupiter Inlet
about 10 miles south, adding four miles to the trip. The entrance was a bit tricky because
it is narrow and there were strong following swells. But we did it.
Following the ICW southward was tedious because of the numerous slow speed
zones. Eventually we came into Lake Worth, where the brisk south wind was kicking up
significant waves for an inland waterway. At 3:30pm we docked in front of Myeerah at
the Rybovich fuel dock. The largest boats in the yard were Independence, a 156-foot
sailboat, Mia Elise a 153-foot Trinity motor yacht, and the humongous 228-foot
Floridian, owned by Wayne Huizenga who also owns the Rybovich yard. Myeerah and
her little baby were the smallest.
It had been another long day. It was time for a well-deserved rest, starting at
4:00pm. At 6:00pm we met on the aft deck facing the industrial strength structures of a
large shipyard. It had rained heavily--the first Florida rain that I had seen in months!
There would be no sunset tonight!
At 7:00pm we had dinner, then we watched the very last episode of The West
Wing, taped last night by Ben, master of all things. Then, at 9:00pm we watched 24,
another gripping repetition of previous gripping repetitions. And so to bed…
In Palm Beach
Awake at 8:00am. It was another cloudy day with much to do: check through
customs in person at the West Balm Beach office, refuel both boats, and have the
Quantum people come from Ft. Lauderdale to check out our recurring stabilizer problem.
Then we planned to rent a car and drive to Bonnet House for a tour.
At 9:30am we finished breakfast and the fuel truck arrived (2,820 gallons at
$2.96 per gallon). Just after this the Quantum stabilizer folks arrived. John and I chilled
out until the activity level died down (the crew’s, not ours—we were pegged at zero).
Once refueled and re-stabilized, we got a rental car for the day.
The first stop was Customs and Border Protection, located only a few blocks
away. There was a day when you could just call in with your customs decal number and
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that was it. But now we have Homeland Security in charge. First you call an automated
line where your call is appreciated frequently while you wait--you stay on hold until even
the computer feels sympathy. Then you get an agent who asks every question except
whether you have mercury in your dental fillings. Then you are given a reference
number. Then within 24 hours you present yourself in person with your reference number
at the closest Customs and Border Security office, where they process you. Only the very
honest would go through this charade. The waiting room at CBP was so small that they
clearly didn’t expect anyone to be dumb enough to be there.
By 1:00pm we were through CBP and looking for lunch. Now Palm Beach might
have the image of glitz, but a decent place to eat is clearly a local-knowledge issue. We
passed plenty of KFCs and McDonalds in the seedy areas we were navigating, but after
many false turns we finally managed to get to an area called City District, where we
found the Columbia Restaurant, specializing in Cuban food. It was a very large restaurant
with white linen tablecloths and absolutely nobody in it. By now it had started raining
heavily, so we stayed for lunch. The service was slow, possibly because it was so difficult
for the waitress to wind her way through all the empty tables. But the food was good. I
had a Cuban Black Bean soup, which was black beans and rice with almost no soup, and
a Cuban sandwich. Erin had only a huge desert.
By 3:00pm we had finished. It was raining very hard, so we canceled the hourlong drive to Bonnet House, where so much of the pleasure is in the outside. Instead, at
John’s suggestion, we decided to go to the Flagler Museum in West Palm Beach. This
was a stroke of genius.
In 1867 37-year old Henry Flagler started Standard Oil with John D. Rockefeller
and Samuel Andrews. Flagler was the man who created the business trust, allowing one
office to control operations in multiple states; prior to that multiple-state business
organizations were prohibited. By the mid-1890s, a very wealthy man, Flagler became
intrigued by the opportunity that he saw in Florida. By his death in 1913 he had built the
Florida East Coast Railway from Jacksonville to Key West, lining the route with posh
hotels and turning Florida from a swamp to a destination. St. Augustine, Palm Beach,
Key West, and St. Petersburg were only a few of his creations.
In 1902 Flagler completed Whitehall, his Palm Beach home, after only 18 months
of construction with 3,000 men working around the clock. It was built as a wedding
present for Flagler’s wife, Mary Lily Flagler. Whitehall is a 55-room mansion with
thirteen servants’ bedrooms, ten guest bedrooms, and a two-bedroom master suite. It is
built with a simple square layout with such large rooms that they feel open even when
filled with art, furniture, books, and other objects. The mansion is in the grand Newport
“cottage” tradition, but it exceeds even The Vanderbilt’s Breakers in its magnificence. Its
exterior is a brightly whitewashed Greek Revival style.
The Grand Hall, where one enters, is 4,400 square feet. Its counterpart space on
the other side is the 3,000 square-foot Grand Ballroom. The art on the walls, the
elaborately decorated ceilings, the exquisite moldings, the marble floors, and the easily
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navigated square layout all attest to a wonderful combination of simplicity and
ostentation. All this for a winter home occupied for less than two months a year! What
the house reveals is the chief characteristic of its builder—a great sense of vision and a
keen desire to do everything with the highest standards.
When Flagler died in 1913 his wife left Whitehall, returning for only one winter
before her death in 1917. Whitehall then became the property of Flagler’s niece who, in
1925, agreed to sell it for conversion into a large hotel. Whitehall was expanded and a
large hotel was built on the property, blocking its view of Lake Worth. By 1957 the hotel
was in poor financial shape and Flagler’s granddaughter led the effort to restore
Whitehall and to use it as a museum. The additional space built on to Whitehall in its
hotel days became office space, gift shop, cafeteria, and display rooms. The original
space was restored to its glory. The hotel was razed.
Then began the funniest hour I’ve had in years. We tried to return the rental car
but got hopelessly lost in the one way streets and bridges of Palm Beach. After many
false turns and calls to Enterprise for assistance, we found that even if we got there it
would be too late to return the car and get a ride back to Myeerah. So we decided to drive
back to the boat and return the car later.
But we still couldn’t find our way. We kept crossing bridges, encountering “Do
Not Enter” signs, going in circles, and in every way behaving like the Griswolds in
Chevy Chase’s European Vacation. It was hysterical! Ben, who was driving, had four
passengers in the car and at each turn there were six different opinions about what to do.
At one point John skillfully directed us into a parking garage. At another point I had us
turn right to get onto a parallel street, only to put us onto a bridge that led us back to the
Flagler Museum. We developed a mean U-turn, the admiration of any Boston driver. Ben
said he felt like a crash dummy, going wherever his program (read: passengers) said. I
haven’t laughed that hard in a long time.
Finally we got back to the boat at about 6:00pm. It had all been great fun. At
7:45pm we had dinner. And so to bed…
Palm Beach to Cape Canaveral
Awake and on deck by 6:30am. After breakfast we refueled Tarhé (85 gallons)
and at 8:15am both boats left Rybovich. Myeerah went on the outside while Tarhé went
outside for the 10 miles to Jupiter Inlet, then went inside because it was lumpy. It was
gray and noticeably cooler, and the weatherman’s 10-15 knot northwest wind was really
20-25 knots from the northeast.
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The ride past Jupiter Island was slow because of the many speed zones. But once
we reached St. Lucie Inlet those disappeared and we made good time. However, the wind
was whistling right down the Indian River and we faced a mean chop.
By the time we reached Fort Pierce the sun had come out. We decided to try to
find a restaurant to break the trip up, even though Erin had packed a lunch. The Fort
Pierce City Marina seemed a good spot since it had plenty of dock space and a waterfront
restaurant. It also had a 4-5 knot current as the tide raced in from Fort Pierce Inlet. As we
approached the marina we saw two guys in a little skiff trying to paddle against the
current to get from the restaurant back to their boat. They were working furiously, but the
harder they worked the faster they went backward. They were in for a long glide down
the Indian River until we took their bow line and dragged them back to the dock. A good
deed done, and we were on our way—too much current for us.
North of Fort Pierce we were stopped by Mr. Policeman, actually Ms. Policeman.
I had missed a sign saying “Slow Speed/Minimum Wake.” Its purpose was to slow boats
down as they went past an oceanographic institute. Now, let me tell you about Florida’s
warning signs—they have footnotes, and sub footnotes. For example, some say things
like “ Slow Speed/Minimum Wake/Nov 15-April 30/ ICW exempt.” A few have so
many lines they should be wrapped around to the back of the sign. You have to be a
fighter pilot to be able to read the small print at cruising speed, particularly since many
signs are well off the waterway. Most signs say ““Slow Speed/Minimum
Wake/ ICW Exempt,” meaning that you can go like a bat out of hell in the Intracoastal
Waterway, but if you are outside the channel go slow. The sign that I offended said
Slow Speed/Minimum Wake /ICW included”. Actually, it had a third line: “this means
you, idiot!.” But Ms. Policeman had undoubtedly had many people who couldn’t read fine
print at high speed, or English at any speed, so after chastising me she let us go on our
way.
Yet another exciting moment was when John was driving and he commented that
he couldn’t see any day markers—just as one on a telephone pole slid by one foot off the
starboard side. I commented “Gee, John. Can you get a little closer?” Typically, he acted
as if it was all in the plan. What a guy!
At about 3:30pm we reached the Cape Canaveral Barge Canal which goes due
east from the Indian River to Port Everglades and the Atlantic. It is seven miles long, and
our marina was at the fifth mile. At 4:00pm we reached the Cape Canaveral Lock that
separates the noncommercial traffic from Port Canaveral. By 4:30pm we were through
the lock and at Scorpion’s Newport Marina. We refueled (83 gallons) and at 5:15pm we
docked at their cruddy floating dock Myeerah arrived at 5:45pm and docked on the other
side of the floating dock. She reported that she had been a bit beaten up on the outside,
and that the galley table had fallen over with Erin’s computer on it; the computer was
OK..
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At 7:00pm John and I met for festivities. We watched Freedom, a 76-foot Lazarra
from Ft. Myers, back in to a slip that looked way too small, and we talked about life and
its strange turns. After a long day it was good to just lay back. We had a great dinner of
crab cakes (“its all in the folding”) and a good tapioca pudding for dessert. After some
post-dinner channel surfing, to bed…
Cape Canaveral to St. Augustine
I got up at 6:00am to change the engine and transmission oil and the oil and fuel
filters on Tarhé‘s Yanmar engine—a filthy job, but it was long overdue. After watching
the sun come up for the first time in years, I had a quick breakfast at 7:30am. At 8:00am
both Tarhé and Myeerah left the dock and headed east through the last two miles of the
Cape Canaveral Barge Canal. On exiting the canal both boats encountered a brisk west
Wind which would have been fine had they not been forced to stay three miles out
because of the security zone around the Cape’s space facilities. It was lumpy as we went
north until we cleared the 20-mile long security zone. When we moved close to shore and
got into the lee it was very comfortable.
At 11:00am Tarhé went through the Ponce de Leon Inlet, passed the famous red
lighthouse, and entered the ICW just north of New Smyrna Beach. We had bypassed one
of the longest slow speed zones in the world--from Mosquito Lagoon north of Canaveral
to New Smyrna--and we were able to get good speed on the ICW. We reached Daytona
Beach at noon and encountered a long speed zone through the four bridges that span the
waterway. I spaced out and went outside the channel, running gently aground with no
damage. One of the lessons of boating is that you only have to pay attention five percent
of the time—but you never know which five per cent!
About 20 miles south of St. Augustine we passed Newcastle Marine where True
North, a very large four-deck expedition yacht with a flag blue hull and off-white
superstructure—like Myeerah--was in the late post-splash stages of construction. I
thought she was beautiful; John thought otherwise. But we both agreed that she was
impressive.
About 10 miles south of St. Augustine we dropped the anchor off Fort Mantanzas,
a small square fort built by the Spanish in the 16th century to prevent unwelcome ships
from entering Matanzas Inlet and attacking St. Augustine from behind. It was sunny and
the stop gave us a welcome ½ hour respite from the engine noise and motion.
We arrived at the St. Augustine Municipal Marina at 3:15pm, refueled (84 gallons
at $2.99), and went to our slip. Before washing the boat we went across the street to A1A
Ale Works, a microbrewery and restaurant, where we had a beer. By 4:45pm we had
washed the boat and were waiting for Myeerah. She arrived at 5:15pm but had to wait for
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the 5:30pm opening of the Bridge of Lions drawbridge. By 5:45pm she was docked and
we could get to some creature comforts.
At 7:00pm John and I met on the aft deck and I sorted out the plan for the next
two days with Ben. We all watched Off Island, a 65-foot Hatteras with an attractive
female captain come in, spin, and back into a slip barely wide enough for the boat—nice
work! Then John and I went to dinner at the A1A Ale Works across the street. We sat on
the second-floor balcony with a wrought iron railing overlooking the harbor and
Myeerah, and we had a very nice dinner—gratis John. We both had steak a pouvre, which
was a bit too pouvre or my taste but it was excellent beef.
After dinner we chatted with an elderly gentleman at the next table who craved
male companionship. He and his wife were driving north. He wanted to talk about John’s
Green American Express card, saying that his wife had talked him into switching to a
new Blue card for reasons he didn’t understand. After a few minutes of hovering at our
table his wife called him back and he commented “I’m with her all day and she can’t give
me five minutes.”
By 9:30pm we were back on Myeerah. And so to bed…
St. Augustine, Florida to St. Catherine’s Island, Georgia
110 nm, 8¾ hrs, 12.6 kts (Myeerah)
125 nm, 6¼ hrs, 19.1 kts--via St. Marys, Georgia (Tarhé)
Awake at 7:00am to another sunny day. The forecast was for west winds at 10-15
knots in the morning, dying down to 5-10 knots in the afternoon. The St. Augustine
Municipal Marina that had been filled last night looked like a ghost town as the many
boats-on-the-move started their day. At 8:00am, after breakfast, John and I went to Tarhé
and the crew got Myeerah ready for the 8:30am bridge opening. At 8:30am both boats
were on their way.
Tarhé followed the coastline at a distance of about ¼ mile on the stretch from St.
Augustine to Fernandina Beach, Florida’s northernmost east coast city. The long stretch
from St. Augustine to the St. John’s River (Jacksonville) was fascinating. The beach is
continuous and very wide, with houses sitting on a ridge well above the beach. Most of
the houses are very large and sit on large lots. The interesting thing was the tremendous
variety of styles: Spanish and Mediterranean villas, Greco-Roman megahouses, subdued
but large Nantucket-style houses, Contemporaries in all shapes—everything you could
imagine. It was an architect’s heaven. There were a few condominium buildings scattered
along the way but, unlike most Florida coastal housing, it was predominantly singlefamily. After the St. John’s River the housing was the more common condominium
style—what a change!
At 11:15am we reached St. Mary’s Entrance, with Fernandina Beach on the
Florida side and St. Marys on the Georgia side. We arrived just ahead of a Navy
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submarine that was coming in to the Drum Point Naval Base on the Georgia side. She
was protected by four Navy jet boats that kept everyone at a 500 yard distance, and she
was accompanied by a large red and white Navy tugboat—probably a sub tender—to
provide assistance in the event of trouble. We stopped inside the entrance to watch the
action. We think it was an old sub used for training, and we dubbed it the USS Rusty
because it had visible rust on her—not shipshape!
Then we went a couple of miles “inland” to St. Marys, my first visit there after
having always gone to Fernandina Beach. It was a charming quiet village with a good
public dock and a large beautiful waterfront park with brick walkways. The houses were
traditional and very well kept. We had lunch at Trolleys on the waterfront: John had
shrimp and I had the best Philly cheese steak ever—it restored my faith in Philly cheese
steaks.
As we left St. Marys we refueled at a little marina (45 gallons at $2.69). We were
on our way at 1:45pm on the ICW in the Georgia Meanders, which switch back and forth
and are the entrance to the Low Country—low marshes interspersed with heavily-treed
areas, with no apparent housing. It was beautiful for a short period, but it became boring
and slow—from St. Marys to our destination off St. Catherine’s Island was 65 miles as
the crow flies, but it was 85 miles on the ICW!
So we exited out of St. Andrew Sound at the north end of Little Cumberland
Island, heading north in the Atlantic. We passed St. Simon Island, but the forecasted light
west wind was really a brisk 20-knot west wind, and the offshore shallow areas meant
that we had to stay far enough out to get quite a chop. So we went back inside on Doboy
Sound at the southern end of Sapelo Island.
At 5:15pm Tarhé approached our agreed meeting place from the west just as
Myeerah came in from the east. What timing! But it took 45 minutes to find good shelter.
Our first effort was in such a chop that we couldn’t safely raft the two boats together.
Eventually, at 6:00pm, we found a suitable spot. Unfortunately, there were colonies of
greenhead flies that liked the same spot, so we all voted to stay inside for one night; the
greenheads did not vote..
At 7:30pm we started the evening process—drinks, dinner, some TV, sleep. It was
very pretty outside, but we didn’t dare venture out. By 9:00pm we were watching the Red
Sox beat the Phillies! Then we went out to look at the stars—the flies were gone, the stars
were crystal clear, and the lights of Savannah, forty miles away, put a gentle glow on the
flat water. Gorgeous!
And so to bed…
St. Catherine’s Island, Georgia to Charleston, South Carolina
125 nm, 7 hrs, 18.0 kts--via Beaufort, SC (Tarhé)
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Awake at 7:30am to another sunny day. Light west winds were welcome, and the
greenheads had not awakened and gone to work yet. However, the 8:00am bell rang and
they arrived, joining a few that had stayed overnight.
At 8:15am Tarhé unrafted and John, our contraband greenheads, and I headed out
St. Catherine’s Sound. As we turned north toward Savannah’s Tybee Roads the flies
became concerned about their families and jumped ship. We continued past Tybee Roads
and entered Calibogue Sound, where we joined the ICW. This saved several miles by
avoiding the long entrance to the Savannah River and the ride up the ICW to Calibogue
Sound.
We had a delightful ride along Hilton Head Island and across Port Royal Sound,
arriving at Beaufort (“Bew-Fort”) at noon. We tried to stay for lunch and refueling, but
the public dock was full and the Beaufort Downtown Marina would not let us tie up for
an hour even though there was plenty of space available. It did offer to sell fuel, but since
one hand wouldn’t wash the other we went 10 miles north to Dataw Island Marina.
George Vyverberg and I had discovered this then-new marina on our trip down
with the Fleming in 1999. It had new heavy-duty docks, a ships store, a good restaurant
with lunch and dinner. Now it is aging and nobody was at the fuel dock. Repeated radio
calls got no answer so we docked at the fuel dock and walked to the main building. The
ships store was closed, and there was one person in the marina office but the door was
locked. He opened it and said he hadn’t heard any radio calls but he would give us fuel. It
turns out his radio was turned off! He also told us that the restaurant was permanently
closed. Hmmmm! Well, at least we got 118 gallons at $2.80.
At 1:45pm we were back on the ICW heading across St. Helena Sound. The ride
through the Low Country was very pretty, and there was little boat traffic to slow us
down. Nothing eventful happened and at 4:15pm we arrived at Charleston City Dock.
Near us were Teel, a 125-foot black-hulled Perini Navi sailboat, Karen Louise, a Fleming
75, and Themis, a 150-foot power boat that stays in Charleston. Bella Contessa, a 100foot Lazarra from Naples, was docked right behind Tarhé.
Before cleaning the boat we walked to a local dive and had a beer. By 5:00pm we
were back on duty. Myeerah arrived at 5:30pm, docking on the outside of the City
Marina’s Mega Dock. She had had a fast trip with helpful currents and a following sea.
Her average speed of 13 knots was a near-record.
By 6:00pm John and I were on Myeerah cleaning up. At 7:00pm I called to leave
message for Allie congratulating her on her 14 th birthday. Then we had dinner and, at
9:00pm, the Red Sox-Phillies game: the Sox won again.
And so to bed…
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In Charleston, South Carolina
A welcome day—no travel. John and I were both on deck at 8:00am, with the
Sunday New York Times to greet us. It was overcast and comfortably warm. We had
breakfast and just chilled out. Not moving felt very good.
At 9:30am Ben started refueling both boats—and the power for the entire dock
went out. It was remarkably quiet with no power and with boats not having turned their
generators on. A dockhand said it was the first time it had ever happened in his year at
the City Dock! Eventually the news came down that the entire downtown area was
blacked out—so the generators were turned on and civilization was back! But in an hour
the power was back.
At 11:00am John and I took the courtesy van to High Cotton, a restaurant on East
Bay Street where we would lunch. We walked down to the Battery, admiring the homes,
and by noon we were back at the restaurant. After waiting for ½ hour in the bar we sat
down. Very good food—and it was air-conditioned!
By 1:30pm we were back on Myeerah watching another Red Sox-Phillies game.
Ben had changed Myeerah’s oil and filters and was refueling her (1800 gallons at $2.52).
The sun was out and it was warm with a nice breeze. At 2:30pm Dick Kopcke arrived in
his signature straw bonnet. At 3:00pm he took a walk into the city, while I read and
napped and John napped while pretending to watch the ball game. There’s a high activity
level on the boat today!
By 5:30pm I was back on deck to find that Dick was still on his walkabout. At
6:00pm he returned and we started the evening ritual. It was sunny and warm on the aft
deck as we prepared for our 7:30pm reservation at Magnolias, our traditional Charleston
watering hole, located only a block from High Cotton.
Soon after 7:00pm we were at Magnolias, and we were immediately seated. We
had a great meal—I had a superb flounder and, even better, John and Dick picked up the
bill. We caught a cab back to the marina and sat on the aft deck and talked. At 10:00pm it
was to bed…
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Charleston, South Carolina to Southport, North Carolina
On deck at 7:15am to a flat mill pond in Charleston Harbor. It was overcast when
we left the dock at 8:15am. We passed the Battery and Fort Sumter on the way out. It was
low tide so you could see the mile-long jetties at the harbor’s entrance—those jetties have
captured many a boat when they are submerged at high tide.
We entered the Atlantic and turned north toward Cape Fear. There was a sizable
swell on our starboard quarter but no wind. However, as we went north the wind picked
up. With wind waves from the north and swells from the south it was a confused sea. So
we redirected Tarhé toward Georgetown SC. The entrance to Wynah Bay is long, and
there are also abandoned jetties that are mostly submerged, so caution is required. In
1999 George Vyverberg and I had entered this channel: it seemed crazy then and even
crazier now that I could see it.
We refueled at the Boat Shed Marina (95 gallons at $2.59) and continued
northward on the ICW. The sun came out and the first 30 miles were the most beautiful I
had seen. The Low Country south of Charleston had given way to a wide channel with
cypress trees along the banks. It was low tide so the roots were exposed, adding to the
beauty. There were very few boats, almost no houses, and no visible towns—and it was
flat calm.
But all good things come to an end. The serenity of the first 30 miles gave way to
the Myrtle Beach area with gazillions of big condo buildings, none of them appealing,
and houses that were new but tacky. A construction boom was going on as developers
competed to fill every square foot with increasingly unappetizing buildings. In addition,
there were lots of “No Wake” zones; in fact, almost everyone who had bought land on the
ICW had posted their personal No Wake signs. The sun had disappeared and it was
overcast again.
When we reached the Little River Inlet on the border of the two Carolinas we
decided to go outside on a rhumb line to Cape Fear. This 36-mile stretch was a bit lumpy
but anything was better than more Myrtle Beach-like travel.
At 5:45 we reached the South Village Harbor Marina in Southport. We refueled
(70 gallons at $2.60) and in about ½ hour Myeerah arrived. Tarhé had traveled almost 25
percent more miles to go the same distance! Inside is certainly twistier.
By 7:30pm we were cleaned up and were on the aft deck. Dinner at 8:15pm, then
the Red S006F-Yankees game—the Sox won! And, at 10:00pm—to bed…
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Southport, North Carolina to Beaufort, North Carolina
Because I slept with Mr. A we got a later start than normal. On deck at 8:00am to
breakfast, both boats left at 9:00am. Myeerah went southeast around Frying Pan Shoals,
adding about 20 miles to her trip. Tarhé went north on the Cape Fear River, then took
the cut over to the ICW and exited into the Atlantic at Carolina Beach Inlet. From there it
was about 75 miles to Beaufort. The only event was the failure of Tarhé’s GPS: it would
not recognize the chart cartridge, though it would give latitude, longitude and much of the
other data. We would have to use paper charts for the rest of the voyage.
The ride was pleasant until we neared Beaufort, when the wind shifted to the east
and became brisk. A steep chop developed and for a short period some effort was
required. At 2:00pm we entered Beaufort and soon we were tied up at Beaufort Town
Dock. We refueled (70 gallons at $2.85), then we walked around the waterfront
investigating the shops. Returning to Tarhé, I washed her under John’s careful
supervision. Dick was out shopping.
Then we just sat and waited. It was sunny with a very comfortable breeze. At
5:30pm John’s daughter, Lindsay, arrived. She would stay for the night and drive John to
Raleigh where he would get a plane to Boston. At 6:15pm Myeerah arrived and we all
piled on board.
Drinks and appetizers at 7:15pm, followed by a great veal dinner. There was lots
of laughter, Lindsay and John leading the parade with reminiscences of the family and of
John. John’s ability to handle boats in the Bahamas was part of the laughter—apparently
he hits everything but the lottery. It was really a fun and funny evening.
After dinner we watched the Red Sox-Yankees game; the Sox lost. And so to
bed…
Beaufort, North Carolina to the Alligator River, North Carolina
Awake at 6:30am and on deck at 7:00am. After breakfast John and Lindsay left.
Myeerah left at 8:15am, Tarhé at 8:30am. Our ride on the ICW was in sunny skies with
very light winds.
At noon Tarhé reached the town of Belhaven and we decided to stop and refuel at
a very dumpy marina (45 gallons at $2.95). They let us leave Tarhé at the dock while we
walked into town for lunch.
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Belhaven is an old town with well-kept simple homes. Everyone gave a cheerful
“Hello” with a big smile. It was like going back fifty years. But Belhaven’s “downtown”
is a commercial shambles, with many closed stores. The only restaurant we could find
was Fish Hook’s Restaurant, where for lunch there is a fishless lunch buffet or one can
have a shrimp melt sandwich. Still, everyone seemed cheerful and happy!
At 1:45pm we left Belhaven and continued northward. We soon reached the
Alligator River-Pungo River Canal, a 30 mile stretch with stumps of dead trees crowding
into the waterway—dangerous stuff. At 4:30pm we arrived at our designated meeting
spot on the north side of South Point, just past the Alligator River Bridge We dropped the
anchor and waited for Myeerah. We were soon inundated with black flies and spent an
hour swatting vigorously. At 5:30pm I called Myeerah on the radio and found that on
exiting the canal she had hit a submerged object, damaging a prop and slowing her speed
to 9 knots.
At 6:00pm Dick and I decided to backtrack about seven miles and meet Myeerah,
when she would anchor in the Alligator River. At 6:30pm we were rafting to her when
Tarhé’s bow thruster failed. Now both boats were wounded, with 85 miles to Norfolk and
a long weekend (Memorial Day) ahead.
At 8:00pm Dick and I met on the aft deck. It was cloudy and cool, and a brisk
wind had come up. We went inside and started watching the Red Sox-Yankees game. In
the fifth inning we had a great grilled chicken dinner, then at the 7th inning we were back
at the game: it was 8-5 Yankees. At 10:30pm we left the game as it went into the ninth
inning at 8-6. It stayed that way.
And so to bed…
Alligator River, North Carolina to Norfolk, Virginia
A late start today because the last bridge before Mile 0 at Norfolk is closed from
4:00pm to 6:00pm: We either start very early and make it by 4:00pm, or we start late and
arrive after 6:00pm: an easy choice!
At 9:00am both boats were on their way. A miracle happened: Ben reported that
the vibration in Myeerah’s starboard prop was gone. Whatever had been hit had gotten
stuck but had dislodged itself. That was great news. No need for a long stop in Norfolk.
Ahead of us was the most tedious and nerve-wracking part of the entire trip along
the ICW. We reached Coinjock, NC, at 10:45am and stopped to have lunch, to refuel (65
gallons at $2.67) and to chill out until Myeerah arrived. The next leg was through
Currituck Sound, a notoriously narrow, shallow, and shifting section of the ICW. It was
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dead low tide with a brisk following wind that pushed the water to the north—the worst
conditions for that section..
At 12:30pm Myeerah arrived and we went ahead of her to scout out the channel.
Immediately on leaving Coinjock Marina a boat’s automatic distress signal went off and
all VHF channels were useless. The boat’s MMSI was 367041320, which, fortunately,
was not ours or Myeerah’s. The Coast Guard traced it to a boat several miles ahead of us
in Currituck Sound, and they eventually got the captain to turn it off: a simple false
alarm, but one that blanked out local VHF transmissions.
It took 1½ hours to go the 18 miles across the Sound. Several times I lost the
channel and had to hunt for it. But at 2:00pm Tarhé was across and at cruising speed. We
passed a very large barge pushed by a tug, and reached several bridges at the right time
for opening. At 3:30pm we reached the Great Bridge Lock, which opened at 4:00pm, so
we waited at a side dock. As the first boat there, when the lock opened I entered first and
was frantically waved away. The entry light was red and the barge that I thought was far
behind was supposed to enter first—it had timed its arrival perfectly and I had no idea
that it was coming! Eventually the barge was in the lock and tied down, and other boats
started to enter even though the light was still red! I am very confused about the lock’s
communication system!
At 4:30pm we were out of the lock with 10 miles to go. We encountered a number
of other bridges but we could go right under them while other boats had to wait. The last
few miles were along the ICW just south of Mile 0 at Norfolk’s Waterside Marina. It was
a butt-ugly ten miles: hulks of rotting Navy ships, huge closed down cement plants, and
ugly but still operating tank farms. Yuck!
At 5:30pm we were at the Waterside Marina. We washed the boat thoroughly for
the first time in days, and then we waited for Myeerah’s arrival. She had had to wait for
all the bridges to open. Pete Nicholas’s Plugger was in the marina with Patrick captaining
his last trip, from Boca Grande to Falmouth.. He had an engine problem on the new
engine that replaced the one he had blown months earlier. We chatted a few minutes,
then, at 7:30pm, Myeerah arrived and docked just behind Silver Shaliss, a 125-foot jet
drive boat with twin coats of arms: the Ocean Reef Club and a red flag with a silver
chalice on it. Tacky!
At 8:30pm Dick and I went to Joe’s Crab Shack for the last supper. It was good
food and we had a deep conversation about the future of the Federal Reserve System, and
about his decision to separate from it. Apparently he has vowed, with his wife’s
prompting, never to darken the doors again—my loss. At 10:30pm we were back on
Myeerah to learn that the Red Sox had beat Tampa Bay.
And so to bed…
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In Norfolk, Virginia
This is a welcomed layover day. Awake at 7:30am with breakfast at 8:30am. The
weather is warm and humid, with a strong south wind—it feels like we might get a
thunderstorm later. Small craft advisories are out.
At 9:15am Dick and I took a short walk to the Waterside Mall, where we had
eaten last night. It is a collection of low-end restaurants with a few simple stores. One
store sells military paraphernalia and that is the one we wanted to visit—but it opens at
10:00am. So we waited on Myeerah for the grand opening.
At 11:00am Dick and I walked over to the store where he bought something for
his father. On the way we talked to Patrick who reported that the Detroit Diesel people
wouldn’t cover the heat exchanger problem on Plugger’s new (100-hour) engine—even
though the heat exchanger was also new. Then Dick and I walked a couple of blocks to
the Sheraton Hotel where he got a cab to the airport for his 12:45pm flight to Boston. He
has been a great help on this trip—an excellent and attentive navigator, and a great
companion. From here on Tarhé has a one-man crew. But the treacherous navigation
phase is over.
I’ve had guests on the boat for almost a solid month, and it seems very very quiet
now. I can’t believe how much I’ve enjoyed the trip and the people on it. Now I’m ready
to get home. I miss Joan and I’ve been on the move for too long.
After a chicken Caesar salad lunch I walked a few blocks to McArthur Square, a
large mall with the usual assortment of shops holding no interest for men. But I was on a
mission—to get a much-needed haircut. Barber Shop & Co. had eight chairs, five barbers
and no customers: This was my kind of place! My barber hadn’t passed the scissors
course; he relied solely on a lawn mower size electric razor with an ominous hum. A
New York native, he had been in Richmond since 1975. His goal for the next year is to
sell his house, lose his wife, and move to Naples FL, where he could be a dealer at the
Indian casino or on a casino boat.
I was back on Myeerah at 3:00pm, having seen the sights of downtown Norfolk. It
was time to read, and to do manly things, like nap. My current reading is A Voyage for
Madmen. Published in 2001, it is a true tale of the first round-the-world single-handed
sailboat race. Set in the late 1960s, a very odd assortment of men and boats accepted a
London Sunday Times challenge to circumnavigate the globe in the Southern Ocean
without stopping at any ports. Two prizes were given. The first was for the fastest time
and the second was for the first boat to return to the starting port (a boat could leave at
any time). Any outside help (provisioning, towing off groundings, etc.) would mean
disqualification.
I napped for about 45 minutes, then Joan called and we talked for a while. At
6:00pm I was on the aft deck. Erin laid on popcorn shrimp, vichyssoise, a huge and very
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tasty tostada, and a great desert. While eating I watched the gathering people and boats.
It’s a big weekend in Norfolk, with Memorial Day and, I imagine, Prom Weekend. Tents
and amusement rides are set up in the park by the marina, and boats are gathering at the
marina. By 7:00pm three go-fast boats were docked next to us: Hyper Active, Liquid X,
and Size Matters. One boat had no mufflers and was revving its engines to announce its
presence: Ouch!
At about 8:00pm two charter boats, American Rover, a sailing schooner, and
Spirit of NorfolkTM, left with lots of high-school age students aboard having fun.
Unfortunately, a splendid thunderstorm with dramatic lightning arrived soon after. A 60foot Viking, Outta Town from Hampton Beach VA, intent on getting in before the storm
hit, laid a gigantic wake right into the marina. Small boats were almost tossed onto the
dock, and Myeerah rolled very badly, threatening damage to its newly-painted hull. The
driver was lucky that he didn’t cause great damage. He was not a popular figure, and he
was so clueless that he actually came in to Waterside Marina for the night. I think the
Crackers will take care of him in the middle of the night.
The storm blew through quickly, as violent storms do, and by 8:30pm it was over.
I laid out the waypoints for tomorrow’s trip to Solomons Island, MD. The chartplotter on
Tarhé is not working because some pins were bent when I tried to change cartridges. Ben
and I tried to straighten the pins but with no success, But the instrument will still take
waypoints so I can program them into it in the morning. After dinner I watched TV for a
while then I watched the last episode of Desperate Housewives on my computer
(www.ABC.com). And so to bed…:
Norfolk, Virginia to Solomon’s Island, Maryland
Awake at 7:00am and off the boat with a breakfast sandwich by 7:30am. The
wind was forecast at 10-15 knots from the west, shifting later to the north. The
Chesapeake can be very uncomfortable when the wind whistles directly up or down it, so
we wanted an early start. Myeerah left at 7:30am, Tarhé at 8:00am. After our efforts to
fix the Northstar GPS on Tarhé last night we had succeeded in completely disabling it.
But I keep a handheld GPS as backup. That and paper charts worked as well.
At 10:15am Tarhé passed Silver Shaliss, which was heading north from Norfolk,
and at 10:45am Tarhé reached the entrance to the Potomac River, the halfway point for
the day. At 1:00pm she entered the Patunxent River, then into Solomons Island Harbor.
At 1:30pm, after refueling (105 gallons at $2.56) she was docked at Calvert’s Marina in
Solomon’s Island, MD. Glory, a Fleming 55, was docked at a nearby marina. There were
no other interesting boats.
Myeerah came in at 3:30pm. It had been a very good ride for both boats. After
discussing the GPS problem with Ben, I retired and read for a while, then napped. Boat
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driving is tiring for some reason. While I was napping Ben fixed the GPS—when we had
opened it up the internal power supply had been disconnected; he just plugged it back in
to its circuit board. At 6:00pm I was on the aft deck with my book, my wine, and my
cheese and crackers. All’s well that ends well, so they say!
At 8:00am I went below to read and watch GI Jane, a high-action movie with
Demi Moore becoming a Navy Seal over the strong objections of her Navy husband, the
U.S. Congress, her commanders and her fellow recruits.—I am woman, hear me roar!
And so to bed…
Solomon’s Island, Maryland to the Egg Island Point, Delaware Bay
161 nm, 11½ hrs, 14.0 kts (Tarhé)
Awake at 7:00am to a sunny and warm day. By 8:00am Myeerah and Tarhé
were both on their way. Initially we planned to stop at the Summit North Marina near the
east end of the C&D Canal. Plans changed!
The ride north was a bit bumpy until just south of Annapolis. From Annapolis all
the way north the Memorial Day boat traffic was extraordinarily thick—it felt like a day
in Maine with lobster traps—you could almost walk across the boats. Most were
sailboats, but motor boats were also abundant.
At 10:45am I took a ½ hour detour through Annapolis Harbor. .I had hoped to
stop to get ashore, but there was no room—every public spot was taken. So at 11:15am I
was on my way through the big bridge into the northern Bay.
At 1:00pm I reached the Sassafras River on Maryland’s east shore, just below the
long entrance to the C&D canal. I decided to take a 20-mile round trip to Fredericktown,
MD where Joan and I had spent the Memorial Day weekend on Myeerah last year—in
rain and fog! This year it was sunny, very warm, and very very busy. I docked at a spot
that I was told was for restaurant patrons and went to a nearby marine store for some
needed items. Then I went to the restaurant and ordered two pieces of pepperoni pizza to
go. They were left over from the lunch period and were pretty bad. But I had fulfilled my
obligation to the restaurant.
At 3:00pm I was back at the entrance to the Sassafras River and turning north to
the Canal. It was gentle water this far north, and the only event was passing a very large
freighter entering the canal. It had to blow the danger signal for a sailboat that was
stopped in front of him—they missed by 50 yards at the most!
For decades a traditional stopping spot for overnight and for fuel was Schaffer’s,
at the west entrance to the C&D. But Shaffer’s has gone out of business and I was in need
of fuel. I went across the canal to the Chesapeake Inn and Marina. It was filled with boats
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and partying people, but I couldn’t find a fuel dock. So I went further east to the Summit
North Marina, our intended destination. We had decided to push on toward Cape May
and to not stop there for the night. Thank God, because it had only 6 feet of water when I
went in the narrow channel; Myeerah could not have entered the marina. I refueled (84
gallons at $2.95), then Tarhé headed east in the canal. Soon after exiting from the marina
a SeaRay blew by at full speed about 20 feet off my port side, throwing a large wake. I
think I understand why the driver did this: the canal is only 200 yards wide and there
were no other boats pressing on him—he must have been lonely!
For once Myeerah was ahead of me. As I exited the canal I turned south into a
brisk south wind against the strong south-flowing current. The Delaware Bay can be
vicious in opposing tide and current—and I was being tossed around badly It was, for a
short time, as bad as the trip north on the Delaware Bay had been last November. Then it
had been a north wind against a north-flowing current, but it had been vicious for the
entire length of the Bay: I had hidden behind a barge and tug on that trip! This time it was
a shorter period, but at times the boat was out of the water and I could hear things crash
to the floor in the cabin.
I called Ben and we decided to stop short of our goal. But we miscommunicated
about where that would be. I ended up on the west side of the Bay and Myeerah was on
the east side. When we finally got together I thought that that it was still too choppy to
raft Tarhé with Myeerah, so we moved nine miles to the south, behind Egg Island Point.
Finally, at 8:00pm, after twelve hours, we were in the same spot. I was really
tired. Erin had a good dinner, but I couldn’t do it justice. By 9:15pm I was in bed
watching The Sopranos; but it was reruns, not the show finale that I expected. And so to
bed…
Egg Island Point, Delaware Bay to Mannesquan, New Jersey
Awake at 7:00am and on deck at 7:39am. The good news is that there is
absolutely no wind—the water is flat. The bad news is that we are in deep fog, with
perhaps 50 yards of visibility. This is déjà vu all over again: From New York to New
Jersey we had the same conditions when coming south last November.
At 8:00am Tarhé unrafted and followed Myeerah for ½ hour. Then I headed
toward the Cape May Canal. On the way there were lots of radar targets but I only got
close enough to see two boats. A 25 foot boat went by at high speed perhaps 100 yards
away, and a 35 foot boat went by at a slow speed.
I decided to go around Cape May rather than risk the busy canal in dense fog. As I
reached Cape May I could hear a Coast Guard “Small Boat” calling a boat (it turned out
to be Myeerah) asking her position and course. Clearly, the Coast Guard boat was afraid
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of getting run down; I wonder why they were out there in the first place. After Myeerah
identified herself the Small Boat kept calling for Myorga to update her position even
though Ben clearly repeated the correct name each time. Finally Ben told them that they
needed to get the name right in case there was another boat in the area with a name like
Myorga.
During this time Erin’s job description was expanded. Ben appointed her to Fog
Monitor. Her task was to periodically report on whether there was fog and, if so, where it
was. For example, when the captain requested a fog report, Erin might say that there is
fog both ahead and astern. This would be noted in the ship’s log. Ben reported that Erin
performed flawlessly—each time she reported fog there was, in fact, fog.
The fog and calm continued after I rounded Cape May and headed north. Just
before passing Atlantic City at 12:45am the visibility increased to about a mile. Soon
after there was full visibility. But as Tarhé got further north a southeast wind picked up at
15-20 knots and the following sea got so strong that I had to start hand steering to keep
Tarhé from digging her bow in.
I approached Manasquan Inlet at 3:00pm, entering at 3:30pm. There was a very
strong outgoing current against the brisk south wind, and a very confused but vigorous
sea had developed. Two Coast Guard boats were helping small boats that couldn’t handle
the seas and were about to go onto the jetty rocks.
Our destination, Brielle Marine Basin, was inside the Manasquan River on the
other side of a railroad draw bridge that had only three feet of clearance at high tide. .
There was a very strong five knot outgoing current, and I had to back Tarhé down into a
corner slip between two boats—Med style--with the anchor of a third boat threatening her
port side. It was not great fun, but I did it. I refueled at the slip (124 gallons at $2.89) and
thoroughly washed Tarhé for the first time in two days. Then I waited for Myeerah.
She arrived at the Inlet at 6:00pm. By then the tide had turned and the current was
fairly slow. Apparently it rips out because Barnegat Bay is emptying into the Atlantic; the
current is especially when a strong south wind is pushing the bay’s water into the
Manasquan Inlet. But it is gentler coming in, so Ben had much better conditions than I
expected, but he still had to navigate through the narrow drawbridge with a following
current.
At 7:30pm I sat down to dinner and watched the railroad bridge go up and down
for the Amtrak commuter trains. The bridge was a marvel of precision, with a huge
counterweight, and it is probably 100 years old and has opened and closed dozens of
times every day. I wonder how the bridge and trains communicate—it has a bridge
tender, but is it automatic but with a bridge tender present for emergencies?
After dinner I tried to watch The White Buffalo, an old Charles Bronson western
that was so bad I gave up. And so to bed…
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Mannesquan, New Jersey to Black Rock Harbor, Connecticut
On deck late today, at 8:30am. It was great to sleep late, but the delay was to
refuel (2,000 gallons at $2.86), not to tend to my sleep deprivation. It was sunny with a
north wind. As we refueled Fred, the owner and dockmaster, kept up a steady chatter. His
sister and co-owner, who runs the ships store and keeps the accounts, came along and
joined the conversation. They were very nice but also very rough-edged; they looked a bit
like Tony and Janice Soprano, but I think they were less lethal. Their parents had started
the marina in 1950, and now they were the only family members interested in keeping it
going.
At 9:30am both boats passed under the railroad bridge and headed out the
Manasquan Inlet against an incoming current. For the first twenty-five miles up the New
Jersey coast I followed Myeerah, intending to do so all the way through the intricacies of
New York harbor. But as we reached Sandy Hook the 13 knot pace got to me and I went
ahead. My plan was to anchor off of the Statue of Liberty and have a quiet lunch while
waiting for Myeerah. I reached my lunch spot at 12:15pm, but I hadn’t counted on the
heavy harbor traffic: ferries and water taxis were scurrying about, tugboats were on the
go with or without barges, schooners were carrying passengers on harbor cruises, and
huge freighters were coming in or were anchored while waiting for pilots. Even
helicopters got into it, adding noise to the constant wakes. It’s the city that never stops—
anywhere!
So I took Tarhé across the harbor to Governor’s Island and drifted while having
lunch. I was afraid that if I anchored I would be run down by a ferry or tugboat without a
thought of warning or of changing course. The wakes were a bit less, there being less
traffic, and the general noise level was down. At 12:45pm Myeerah came steaming in and
I picked up my station behind her.
It was sunny and hazy as we entered the East River and passed by Manhattan on
the port and Roosevelt Island, Hell Gate, Riker’s Island and City Island on the starboard.
The famous Hell Gate current, where the East River and the Harlem River join, was
subdued. At 2:00pm we passed under Throg’s Neck Bridge and entered Long Island
Sound.
We had hoped to get to Boston tomorrow, but the slow pace through New York
made that impossible without very long days. So we decided to stop at Black Rock
Harbor near Bridgeport, CT. As we headed east on the Sound we had a mild easterly
chop, then a period of slack tide with a near-doldrum calm. Then the chop began again as
the tide started flowing out (eastward) against the east wind. But it was the calmest travel
day since the ICW.
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I stayed with Myeerah all the way through Long Island Sound, taking the
opportunity to finish my book A Voyage for Madmen. Only one boat completed the race.
Another broke up about 1,000 miles short and the captain later committed suicide. Yet
another captain fabricated a fake circumnavigation and never left the Atlantic; he too
committed suicide by jumping overboard. A Frenchman loved the sea so much that he
disqualified himself by not returning to the point of origin (Plymouth, England)—instead
he decided to do the circumnavigation a second time!
As we went along we were overtaken by Lucky Duck, another Hinckley Picnic
Boat, and we encountered Avalon, a gorgeous 110-foot sailboat heading to New York. At
4:45pm we entered Black Rock Harbor and docked at Captain’s Cove Seaport, a very
large marina. I refueled Tarhé (62 gallons at $2.80) and at 5:15pm I was on Myeerah. I
showered and wrote these notes. At 6:30pm I was on deck.
It was a lovely evening, with sun shining on the harbor, but very cool. I chatted
with the young dock assistant, whose family has owned and run Captain’s Cove Seaport
for years. He is an economics and psychology major at the University of Connecticut.
Both the dock assistants and the guidebooks say that this is a nice place but that it is part
of Bridgeport and one shouldn’t walk outside the harbor. The projects are nearby!
After dinner I watched The Sheltering Sky, with John Malkovich and Debra
Winger as a couple traveling in North Africa with a male friend. They seem to be
disconnected expatriates who might never return home, wherever that is. It is an eerie
movie, seemingly pointless, with the message (I think) that we are all dead even if we are
alive.
And so to bed…
Black Rock Harbor, Connecticut to Hadley Harbor, Naushon Island, Massachusetts
On deck at 7:30am for an early start on a long day. It was very cool with dense
fog and an east wind. The water temperature was about 57 degrees; the air had to be
cooler than that to create such a heavy fog. After the Bahamas, this was raw weather
indeed.
At 8:00am both boats left Captain’s Cove Seaport. I stayed with Myeerah for
about ten miles because the fog was so thick and she has better electronics, as well as a
seasoned Fog Monitor. The east wind was kicking up 2-4 foot waves until the tide turned
to flood in the mid-morning. But after an hour the fog appeared to be lifting and I went
ahead.
The visibility soon closed in again and I was traveling on instruments. Radar
targets more than 1/4 mile away were invisible to the eye. There was little traffic on Long
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Island Sound, exceptions being a large blip that I took to be the ferry from New Haven to
Orient, and a red sailboat heading west. When I reached Valiant Rock, just off of Fisher’s
Island on the Connecticut coast, the visibility was nearly zero and the tide was ripping.
Fishing boats, some commercial, many not, dotted the area. Wending my way through
them while keeping to my desired heading was impossible. I spent a few minutes
wandering around to get back on track.
Soon after getting my bearings I encountered a tug with a barge on a long tow.
My radar showed multiple echoes so I couldn’t locate the tug and barge with any
precision. When I got close enough to see the barge I thought it was being pushed
northward by a tug, but in fact it was being towed southward and the tug wasn’t visible. I
almost went between them—a disastrous choice--but, fortunately, I saw the long tow line
coming off of the barge’s bow and I corrected my course to go behind the barge. Then I
got disoriented again--every time I tried to get back on my line the damn tug and barge
were in the way, like I was a moth drawn to a flame. Finally I got it sorted out.
The rest of the trip was uneventful, though blind. About ten miles from Woods
Hole the fog disappeared and the sun came out. I had gone 126 miles and seen almost
nothing! At 3:30pm I arrived at Hadley Harbor and anchored behind Bull Island. It was
actually warm, and I had two attentive seagulls floating beside me for company. I started
reading The Wreckers, a book that Ben loaned me about ship wrecks and vigilante
salvage operations in Britain since 1700.
At about 5:30pm fog began creeping into Vineyard Sound, just to the east. It
cooled down quickly, and the Nobska Point Light House began to bellow. At 6:00pm
Myeerah arrived and we rafted together. They had been in fog until the last ten minutes
of their trip.
After talking with Joan I went to the aft deck for dinner. We were anchored near
two large Victorian summer houses with a dock and boathouse. One house was dark, the
other partially lit—I imagine that caretakers lived there. The fog had rolled in and there
was an eerie feel to the place. Behind us was a ledge that stuck out darkly against the fog.
Stephen King’s novels are built on that strange and mystical feeling of darkness and fog;
perhaps he’s been to Hadley Harbor.
Dinner was Caesar’s salad, Shrimp Scampi, and Key Lime pie—all favorites.
After dinner I watched TV for a while. And so to bed…
Day 20: Thursday, June 1, 2006
Hadley Harbor, Naushon Island to Boston, Massachusetts
12 nm, ¾ hrs, 16.0 kts (Tarhé)
I have been on a boat continuously for 35 days since Charlie and I left Naples on
April 29, bound for the Bahamas. It is the longest period I have spent on a boat since the
Cuban Missile Crisis in 1962, 44 years ago. Yet in those 35 days I have not been on
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Myeerah when it is at sea. Today will remedy that--Tarhé will be delivered to Kingman
Yacht Center in Cataumet, MA for painting, and I will ride on Myeerah to Boston.
I was awakened at 8:00am by the phone ringing. It was Joan reminding me that
she had to report for jury duty today and might not be home when I arrived. At 9:00, after
my “last breakfast,” I unrafted from Myeerah and headed north to Red Brook Harbor. It
was—you guessed it—very foggy and a brisk west wind created four-foot seas on the
port quarter, pushing Tarhé around quite a bit. At 9:45am I was in the very twisted
channel to Kingman Yacht Center, and at 10:00am I was met by John Burman, the yard
manager. We went over the needs, the schedule, and other details. Then John showed me
the yard’s launch, a beautifully rebuilt teak-laden maroon-hulled canoe-stern launch with
two Yanmar engines. It was gorgeous--but still in the shop. The owner clearly took great
pride in his yard. The yard also had a gorgeously varnished teak sailboat for which it was
just finishing a refit. My impression was of high-quality work and attention to detail.
I was taken out to Myeerah by Jeff, a very friendly fellow, in Ghost Rider, the
yard’s small, ancient, and very battered tugboat. Built fifty years ago by Kingman
Marine, it sped along at a blistering six knot pace with an ear-shattering roar. The real
entertainment was when I had to get off at the swim platform. The waves were running
right down from Myeerah’s bow and efforts to bring the tug alongside the platform were
not successful. So Jeff threw two stern lines to the crew who secured them--and he handhauled Ghost Rider stern to the swim platform. This was a very nice piece of work! My
exit was not graceful, but it was successful.
At 10:45am Myeerah was on her way to Boston, moving carefully up Hog Island
Channel, the far western end of the Cape Cod Canal, toward Bourne. We were through
the canal by noon, pleased to see that the Massachusetts coastline was hazy but sunny,
and that we were in the lee of the west wind that was beating down Buzzards Bay.
After a very gentle ride up the coast, Myeerah passed Boston Light at 3:00pm and
arrived at its new slip at the Boston Waterboat Marina at 4:00pm. C’est finis!
Epilogue
This and the previous trip were two different parts of a 35-day journey. I’m
surprised at how accustomed I’ve gotten to a daily routine of driving Tarhé during the
day and staying on Myeerah at night. Each day has presented its unique challenges—
wind, fog, traffic, and so on, as well as its new opportunities—places to see, new
experiences. One would think that it is tediously repetitive, but it’s not. The sea always
changes!
In all this time the boats have held up very well—knock on wood. Each has had
its moments of difficulty: for Myeerah, the stabilizer problem and the blessedly
temporary propeller problem; for Tarhé, the electronic steering problem, the bow thruster
failure, and the chartplotter failure. But none of these problems was serious, and they
happened at times and in places that were very benign. I’m reminded of Clint Eastwood’s
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movie Unforgiven in which William Money, a reformed killer, goes back to his old ways.
At one point he kills three men simultaneously. Asked how he knew which opponent
would draw first, he replied “I’ve always been lucky in the order of my killing.” Well,
I’ve been lucky in the locations and times of my boat problems.
The crew deserves accolades. They have been on duty for 37 days, leaving Naples
two days before Tarhé left. They’ve had no time off, and there have been guests on board
on all but seven of the days. They’ve done wonderfully well, and I’m sure that if I said to
delay our return for a day they’d mutiny, and for good reason! They will get comp time,
but that can never make up for the constant attention they’ve given to us and our guests.
Erin’s great cooking and good cheer have been a fine addition to Ben’s and Amanda’s
humor, attention to the boats, and quiet competence. Guests often tell us that we are very
lucky to have this crew; we know it!
I’m grateful for good friends like John and Dick, who came along when a second
person was crucial. Their companionship, their navigational skills, and the relief from
constant driving that they provided made the trip far more pleasant and successful than it
otherwise would have been.
Most of all, I’m grateful to Joan for putting up with all this water stuff. She
cheerfully took on the Bahamas adventure, and she graciously let me spend three weeks
bringing Tarhé back to Boston, a time during which I missed her birthday and Mother’s
Day. I’ve missed her and I’m very ready to get back. But its been grand!
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Italy’s West Coast: Genoa to Naples
June 18 - 27, 2006
Prologue
This trip is on the Nicholas’s Hilarium. The group is the same that went to the
Mediterranean on Hilarium’s maiden voyage in 2004. It will begin in Portofino in
Tuscany, on the northwest coast of Italy, and it will end in Naples. We will have covered
over 400 nautical miles by boat and 4,800 statute miles by plane.
Day 1: Sunday, June 18, 2006
Bedford, MA to Portofino, Italy
3400 nm, 7 hours
The plan was to leave Hanscom Field at 8:00am in the Nicholas’s plane. We left
Boston at 7:45am and arrived at the Nicholas’s hangar at 8:15am. Our immediate
departure was set back by an unexpected event: one of our party (henceforth “the
miscreant”) had forgotten to bring the all-important passport. A flurry of activity ensued,
with the result that the Italian authorities would not allow the plane to enter the country
with an un-passported passenger. So the decision was made that the miscreant would stay
in Boston on Sunday night, have the passport Fedexed to them on Monday, and take a
commercial flight Monday night, meeting us at Portofino on Tuesday morning. Pete, as
always, was the perfectly gracious host, treating this snafu as another adventure in travel
and arranging the logistics. He is an adept at navigating the treacherous shoals of problem
solving.
At 9:00am (3:00pm Italian time), an hour later but still no wiser, we departed
Hanscom Field bound for Genoa, Italy. Flying northeastward to Newfoundland, we
caught the jet stream across the Great Pond, reaching speeds of up to 650 mph. It was an
easy flight with daylight until we reached the nightline near Italy. At 10:00pm we landed
at Genoa’s waterside airport, and by 11:00pm we had cleared Italian Immigration and
Customs.
Pete had arranged for a mid-size tourist bus to take us to Portofino. As we left the
airport an interesting charade began. The driver said that we had “a problem.” He had not
been told that we were going to Portofino and his bus didn’t have the necessary permit to
enter the town. So he would stop in Santa Margherita Ligure, about five miles from
Portofino, where he would get cabs for us.
After 45 minutes we reached a desolate Esso gas station on the outskirts of Sta.
Margherita. To our driver’s great surprise, no taxi he called would respond to our plight.
So, after a muted protest about his honor, he accepted a bribe to take us the rest of the
way. The bribe was, he said, enough to cover his fine if the police caught him entering
without a permit. He would, of course, keep the money if there were no police, a fact that
he ascertained by phone before committing himself. Pete was very gracious about this
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turn of events, noting only that “not all is good today.” (Later communications with the
transport handlers revealed that this was a blatant ripoff—the driver had been told that
Portofino was our destination, and no special permit is required for any vehicle to enter
Portofino.)
So, at midnight, we reached Portofino’s little harbor without police intervention.
We were soon on Hilarium, which was Med-moored cheek-to-jowl between Phoenix, a
90-footer hailing from Luxemburg, and a larger boat, Lady ” Something or Other”. There
was a swell coming in and Lady was tossing around like a cork, while the smaller boats,
with lower centers of gravity, were relatively stable. The rubbing of fenders was loud and
frequent.
At 4:00am (Italian time), after a light meal, Joan and I went to bed. The others
stayed up until 5:30am.
Day 2: Monday, June 19, 2006
In Portofino, Italy
Awake at 11:30am to a very light breakfast at noon. Joan and I were the first on
deck. The tourists of Portofino were inspecting the yachts. Our large tipsy neighbor had
left and a smaller boat, an Italian-built Maiora, had taken its place, giving Hilarium a bit
of space. The day was overcast with sun breaking through for short periods.
Joan and I took a short walk to a linen and lace store, where she bought placemats
for Myeerah from a charming younger (40ish) Italian woman with white leather pants
sprayed on. We returned to Hilarium and, at 2:30pm, had lunch. Then, just before
4:00pm, we walked to the bank to get some euros ($1.30). It was beginning to spit some
raindrops.
After the bank teller spent 20 minutes calculating the exchange on his computer,
we got the euros and we continued on up the steep street in search of the path to Castello
Brown, a large castle overlooking the harbor that had been built by Montague Brown, a
British envoy to Genoa in the 19 th century. Later owned by a German baron; it is now a
public attraction for those who can get there (mountain goats, hang gliders, etc). The road
seemed to go up and on forever, so we turned back and found some ancient steps up the
very steep hillside. We eventually gave up on those too because they were longer than the
steps to heaven with much less incentive to climb them.
Never finding the path, we returned to the boat. The ferries were arriving with day
trippers and the harborside shops were getting busy. The Maiora had left and One More
Toy, a large 150-foot Christensen from Georgetown, had pulled in next to us so that we
were again cheek-to-jowl. Joan returned to the shops while I retired to read and, perhaps,
to snooze a bit in preparation for 8:30pm reservations at the very-nearby Ristorante Puny.
At 7:30pm we all met on the aft deck for drinks, and at 8:30pm we were seated at
the Puny. The food was excellent, as was the wine, and at 11:00pm we were back on the
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boat. Joan and I went to bed at 11:30pm, while Pete and Marty stayed up until 2:30am
talking with the fellows on One More Toy. The two men were in venture capital together
and had formed and sold Expedia.com. They were chartering the boat for a week, and,
observation suggested, they might already have consumed the week’s supply of alcohol.
Day 3: Tuesday, June 20, 2006
Portofino, Italy to Viareggio, Italy
55nm
Viareggio, our destination today, is a large resort town and shipbuilding area with
major builders like Bennetti, Perini Navi, Maiora, Azimut, and Codesca. The attraction
for the guys is a tour of the yards; for the ladies it is shopping and a trip to the nearby
towns of Pisa and Lucca.
Captain Doug’s 9:15am wakeup call announced that soon the miscreant would be
arriving, having landed cum passport in Milan at 7:30am. It was sunny, warm, and very
comfortable. By 10:00am we were all seated for breakfast watching the people on the
quay watch us.
Phoenix, on our port side, left at 10:15am, leaving more room for our exit. I had
been wondering how easy our departure would be if both Phoenix and One More Toy
stayed, leaving only a foot on each side. This concern was compounded when I learned
that yesterday the big tipsy boat had hit Hilarium when departing (Tipsy had been hit the
day before by an arriving boat). I also saw another boat go the wrong way when
departing and back into the seawall. Apparently this is an at-risk boating area! But now
there would be plenty of room to maneuver.
At 10:30am the miscreant arrived, smiling and tired. We had missed him/her and
were happy to all be together. At 11:00am Hilarium began a slow departure from
Portofino, crawling out along its anchor rode until the anchor was raised then sedately
exiting the tight little harbor. We all went to the sundeck to enjoy a drive-by of Sta.
Margherita and Rappalo. Rappalo had high cliffs with houses having trams or finiculars
going down to the water Then we followed the coastline southward past other lovely
villages on the Italian Riviera. Many of the houses were impressive mansions with, it
appeared, a long history.
As we proceeded southward the terrain became less densely populated with
occasional villages dotting the hillsides. We passed the villages of Monte Rosso al Mare
and Casino and, at 1:00pm, we dropped the hook off Vernazza, a gorgeous small
medieval village with terraced vineyards climbing high into the hills and ancient stone
watchtowers along the water. Vernazza is one of the five towns that make up the
medieval Cinque Terre region, where each town grew up around a large castle designed
to defend against the Turkish Saracens. There we had lunch and all but your reporter
swam in the 72°F water. They were very brave until Doug announced that there were
jellyfish, at which point all leaped directly from the cold water to the aft deck in a single
bound—it was like a scene from a Chinese martial arts movie.
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At 3:30pm we were on our way again, passing more villages crowded into small
coastal areas by the surrounding high hills. In the area of La Spezia we saw purple
cliffs—where do those come from? Soon after, we reached Portovenere, an ancient town
dominated by a large stone fortress set back from the water, a big stone church built into
the cliff at the water, and colorful houses strewn along the waterfront. Passing through a
narrow channel between the town and the island of Palmaria, we entered the Gulf of
Spezia. The water was flat calm with a distant haze. It had been overcast and hazy for
most of the trip.
The coastline down to Viareggio was an almost unbroken beach populated with
umbrellas and hotels. Set far back were high mountains with, it seemed, snow fields near
the top. We later learned that this area is Italy’s major source of granite; the “snow fields”
were white granite quarries on the steep mountainsides! At 6:00pm, just before we
reached the harbor at Viareggio, we saw fog rolling in from the Med. Soon we had Medmoored (yes, a foot to spare on each side!) between Fortunate Sun, a 170-foot Oceanfast
owned by an Oklahoman, and Iskantar, a 1960s-era 100-foot canoe-sterned vessel. How
Captain Doug got Hilarium in without even touching the fenders of the adjacent boats is
a mystery. My hero!
At 7:30pm we met on the aft deck and at 8:00pm we walked to taxis to take us to
Romano, a restaurant in a deserted neighborhood with few other customers. We had a
decent meal but without sides like salad—very European—and with items that did not
appeal to all of us. Some liked their meal—others did not. I paid the bill and at 10:30pm
we started walking back through the desolate neighborhood around the restaurant. When
we reached the waterfront we found a promenade with high activity—restaurants, shops,
lots of people, and even big-screen TVs showing the World Cup soccer game between
Sweden and England. Wish we had found it first!
At 11:15pm we reached the marina and by 11:30pm we were on Hilarium. And
so to bed…
Day 4: Wednesday, June 21, 2006
Viareggio, Italy to Portoferraio, Elba Island, Italy
68nm
Today the men tour the shipyards while the ladies go to Pisa and Lucca. The
respective tours left at 9:30am. The first stop for the men was the Bennetti yard about 100
yards from Hilarium. We saw models of completed Bennettis up to 70m (240 feet) in
length, as well as four Bennettis under construction. We were not able to see a completed
boat. Our guides were the sales manager and her assistant. They didn’t seem very
knowledgeable, and my impression was that many Bennetti buyers just walk in and say
“Give me one of those.” It was a tour designed not to sell.
Perini Navi, next door to Bennetti, was just the opposite. Our guides were a
technical specialist and a sales person, both of whom were very knowledgeable and
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showed great pride in their products. The Perinis are spacious motor sailers not known
for sailing performance (they can’t sail very close to the wind) but comfortable for long
distances. Unlike the production-line Bennettis, the Perini Navis are custom boats in
design and detail even though they have a very identifiable shape. The impression given
was of the highest standards of engineering and the greatest attention to customer needs.
At 1:45pm we were all back on the boat. The ladies reported that their tour of Pisa
and Lucca were a great success. Joan said that Pisa had been cleaned up since we were
last there 30 years ago, and that Lucca was a quaint village with walls on three sides and
the fourth protected by a river. Their guide spoke fluent English and was very
informative, certainly a bonus.
At 2:00pm Hilarium left Viareggio on its way to Isola d’ Elba. It was another very
hazy day, making the view of Viareggio seem pale. Following the coastline, we passed
Livorno, another major shipbuilding area, where we saw the Queen Mary 2 as well as
several smaller cruise ships (they’re all smaller!) and an empty car carrier riding very
high in the water. At 4:00pm I retired to read and—I hoped—to nap.
After a refreshing rest I awoke, dressed, and went upstairs to oversee our entrance
to the small town of Portoferraio on Elba. The sun had come out and it was warm but not
at all humid. Entering a large bowl of water between two peninsulas and surrounded by
high hills, providing almost 360° of protection, we passed several large yachts at anchor.
The town is strung along the waterfront between a two forts, Forto Stella at the entrance
and Forto Medicciae set back on a hill. The waterfront is shops at the street level with
flats above, all in pink, yellow or gray colors.
Backing up to the quay between Emera, a 100-foot 1970’s Italian canoe-sterned
yacht, and Chibli, an 80-foot Italian yacht, we had a direct view of the street—and it of
us. Our entrance brought out much of the town’s population, perhaps 25 people, who
suppressed their desire to applaud, throw roses, and sing our national anthem. But
otherwise they seemed attentive, if not curious.
At 7:30pm the deed was done and all but your reporter took a short walk to
relieve the stress of the day. I needed no relief, so I stayed on board to be sure that Doug
felt comfortable with the boat’s position. At 8:30pm we sat down to a fine veal dinner on
the boat then we watched the first two episodes of the first season of 24—compliments of
Alice. Finally, at a late 1:00am, to bed…
Portoferraio, Elba Island to Porto Santo Stefano, Italy
45nm
Our 8:15am wakeup call worked and by 9:00am we were on deck for breakfast.
At 10:00am our 7-passenger van arrived and the eight of us climbed aboard. Silvano,
nicknamed “Silverado” by Pete, drove us for 45 minutes past hills and dales (mostly
hills) until we arrived at Capolivera, a medieval village set very high on a hillside. Along
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the way we learned a little bit about Elba. Settled by the Etruscans who mined its iron
ore, Elba was conquered and reconquered over the centuries. The oldest buildings date
from the 12 th century. Elba has a year-round population of 29,000 that swells to 200,000
in the summer. It has no industry, and, other than tourism, the only activities are making
white wine (rather sweet and fizzy), a granite quarry on the west end, and a stone and
gravel quarry near Portoferraio.
The town of Capolivera was called Caput Librum in the Middle Ages. It had two
walls. The outer defensive wall was called a caput (Italian: capo), and the inner wall
surrounding the town was a librum (Italian: livera). Librum is the Latin word for free. As
you know, the rise of the cities in Europe in the Middle Ages was both a cause and a
consequence of the decline of feudalism. Unlike the feudal estates, where serfs were
bound to a lord by obligations to serve and to work in exchange for land to cultivate,
housing, and protection, the cities were “free” territory, a sanctuary. Any serf who could
reach a city was safe from forced return to the estate, and was free to choose any
occupation. So Capolivera is, literally, a free walled city within an outer wall. It is one of
two such medieval cities on Elba, the second being Portoferraio.
The view from Capolivera is gorgeous. Steep hills fall down to a valley covered
with vineyards. The town is almost a single structure with apartments like combs in a
beehive. Its narrow streets, high buildings, and ancient churches, are crowded into a
complex web of activity. On this day there was a weekly market that moves to a different
area of Elba each day (Portoferraio tomorrow). Jewelry, agricultural produce and breads,
clothing, toys, and other goodies are packed into a narrow street filled with people. We
walked slowly through the market, then through some of the town’s streets. As we passed
small alleys we could get glimpses into other parts of the city—perhaps another street, or
a walkway that rose or fell into another section of the city, or a walkway that just ended
on the edge of a cliff. It was like peeling an onion and seeing the deeper layers.
At about noon we got back to our taxi and drove to the town of Viticcio for lunch.
The Ristorante Pizzeria da Giacomino, situated at the edge of a large bay that had several
boats, big and small, at anchor, is a lovely spot above the granite-strewn swimming
beach. We sat at a long table and met Sabrina, our lovable blond Elban who spoke
piccolo English; we, of course, spoke less than piccolo Italian. Thus began a hilarious
series of miscommunications.
The men were interested in meat, preferably atop pizza. Pete stated very clearly
“No Fish!” The ladies were more diverse in their tastes, but the negotiations apparently
were done on a table-level basis—we were to get things we could share, not individual
orders. Somehow, perhaps by default, Sabrina was given carte blanche to select our meal.
The fox was in charge of the henhouse.
The first course was antipasto, all of which was fish-laden. We thought that that
was our complete meal, and some ate it while others didn’t. Then, a bit to our surprise, a
pasta course arrived with gnocchi and spaghetti with lobster shells. This was a bit more
appealing, but the meat-hunters among us craved pizza. So we ordered three pizzas with
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prosciutto. Before our pizzas arrived yet another course of fish arrived—tuna, sardines,
octopus, and so on. We now began to see into the future and our level of hysteria
increased. We didn’t know how many more courses were coming, but we also couldn’t
communicate with the lovable Sabrina to put a stop to them. Just as our pizzas arrived yet
another course of fishy stuff was placed on the table. By now we were laughing so hard
that we had become the center of attention of a cute Italian couple at an adjacent table,
who had just wanted a quiet romantic meal.
Soon the piece de resistance arrived: a platter of grilled white fish with one eye
staring up at us. We didn’t know what to do—we considered giving it to Silverado or to
the cute couple. But we decided to eat it politely and leave. Before we could finish it, two
more platters arrived—prawns, squid, what looked like swordfish, and so on. We had
gone from worrying that we would have too little to knowing that we had had too much.
There was some thought given to a novel form of communicating our gastronomic
distress to Sabrina—electing a designated hurler to throw up on the table! Instead, taking
the high road, we asked that the fish be wrapped to go, and finally Sabrina understood.
All this time we had been laughing hard at ourselves and our predicament; the more
sensitive among us feared that we were laughing at her. Marty paid the bill and as we left
we each gave Sabrina a kiss and thanked her—in English. She had been a very good
sport! I fear that we had irritated the Italians by being so boisterous, but they will never
hate us like the French do.
So we climbed back into our taxi and, with Silverado at the wheel, we returned to
Portoferraio. We arrived at 2:45pm and at 3:00pm Hilarium was on its way to Porto
Santo Stefano on the Italian mainland. At 6:30pm we arrived at the Porto S. Stefano
harbor which had shops and apartments close along a road, with houses climbing up steep
hills and the inevitable castle. The town seemed to turn out for us—people even came out
on their balconies to watch us dock. We were clearly the biggest boat in town.
At 7:00pm we started walking along the waterfront. A wonderful promenade had
been created around the harbor, so it was an easy walk. Porto S. Stefano is an island
turned into a peninsula by two causeways to the mainland. We heard nothing but
Italian—this was not on the road more traveled by foreign tourists.
I returned to Hilarium at about 7:30pm; the others were back at 8:00pm. At
8:45pm we walked to a nearby restaurant which had outside seating (on an incline that
threatened to topple us), flimsy plastic chairs, and a waitress who spoke English! The
food was outstanding, even the beef. Alice and Debbie had treated us to a great meal.
By 11:30pm we were back on the boat watching another episode of 24. Joan and I
went to our room at 12:30pm, while everyone else stayed up for yet another episode of
24.
And so to bed…
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Day 6: Friday, June 23, 2006
Porto Santo Stefano to Ostia, Italy
74nm
Today is a boat day. The morning call was at 9:15am, and by 9:45am all were on
deck. It was sunny and the wind was light. The first order of the day was a walk, and the
stroll along the harbor road took about an hour. At 10:45am we had breakfast and at
11:30am we crawled out the anchor rode and left Porto Santo Stefano All of us had a
great view from the sun deck.
As we turned south around the point that protected the harbor, the wind came up
and the fog crawled in. Much of the next hour was in fog that masked the nearby
coastline. But by 12:30pm the fog had given way to a haze along the coast.
Our first stop was Isola di Giannutri, a small island about 13 miles south of Porto
S. Stefano and 60 miles from our destination near Rome. There is a lovely deep-water
cove that allowed Hilarium to back up almost to the rocks. After dropping the anchor,
Billy swam to shore to set a stern anchor and keep us stern-to-shore. Joan and Alice led
the way, with others straggling behind. The 71° water temperature led to some initial
whining, but as numbness overtook he sufferers they quieted down. After about 30
minutes the swimmers reboarded and soon after we raised anchor and headed toward
Rome. The sun was out, the sea was calm, and we saw very few boats. At 3:00pm we sat
down to a pizza lunch, and at 4:00pm we started watching episodes of 24.
At about 6:00pm we reached Porto di Roma, a large and new marina at the city of
Ostia, at the mouth of the Tiber River. Ostia is where the Emporer Claudius built a
massive harbor in the first century AD, around which the town developed. Ostia is now a
beach and resort area.
We had a fine dinner on board and watched more episodes of 24. And so to bed…
Day 7: Saturday, June 24, 2006
In Rome
Today is marathon day. At 11:00am we were picked up in a van by Dominico, our
driver, and Claudia, our lovely and charming guide. Claudia, a Ph.D. candidate in
Philosophy at the University of Rome, spoke excellent English as well as French,
German and passable Dutch. She is also a trained art historian.
On the one-hour drive to Rome we passed the ruins of the Roman city and harbor
of Ostia, and then got onto the highway to Rome. There were gazillions of cars going the
other way to the beach; there were only a gazillion were going our way into Rome.
Apparently, the standard Italian work week is six days with only Sunday off. So there is a
rush to the beaches on Saturday.
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We arrived at the Vatican at noon and were ushered into the entrance area through
the exit, passing the two hour wait to get in. We then joined the throngs for the 1½ hour
walk to the Sistine Chapel. On the way one goes through what seems to be hundreds of
rooms and hallways, each highly decorated and having loads of art and sculptures. It is an
amazingly beautiful—and long—trek. The Sistine Chapel has been restored since our last
visit in 1977, and it is glorious. The ceiling had originally been blue with stars, and the
allegorical frames that Michelangelo painted were a remarkable change The wall
frescoes, painted by major artists like Raphael, depict the life of Moses on one side and
Jesus on the other. Claudia expertly told us about the significance of the frescos on the
walls and ceiling.
After the Sistine Chapel we went into St. Peter’s, where I got separated from the
group. I waited at the exit until they came along and we were reconnected. Claudia said
that she had never yet lost a client. Once together, we walked through St. Peter’s Square
and drove to Piazza Navona, a famous square with fountains, obelisks, and statues that
was built on top of an ancient Roman stadium. We had lunch at Tre Scalini, a wellknown outdoor restaurant, where we watched the people and got a good view of the
piazza. After lunch we walked around the piazza, then hopped on the van for our next
stop—the Pantheon.
The Pantheon was built in the first century AD by Marcus Agrippa, Augustus’s
son-in-law. It originally was a temple to all the gods. Its key feature is a dome with a
large round opening at the top to let the gods enter. The rain comes in but is quickly
drained by holes strategically placed in the marble floor. The Pantheon now holds the
tombs of Raphael and Victor Emmanuel, the first king of Italy after the unification in
1871; Catholic services are still held there requiring a forced exit of tourists. It is a
beautifully proportioned structure with massive bronze doors and large columns in the
front.
After the Pantheon we took a driving tour around Rome. On the way we saw the
Constantine’s Gate next to the Coliseum. The Coliseum was built on the grounds of
Nero’s Golden Palace by the successor Emperor. Under Nero it had been a private home
with a lake. The next emperor made it a place for public entertainment to show his
concern for the people. Its lowest floor was a lake where mock naval battles were fought.
The lake would be covered by a wooden floor when other entertainment was done.
W also saw monument to Victor Emmanuel (now a monument to all Italian
soldiers who have died in wars), the Capitol area, the remains of Augustus’s palace on
the Palatine Hill—the first McMansion, the forum and many ruins.
At about 6:30pm we stopped at an outdoor bar and had drinks. Then we went to
the Hotel Splendide Rome, once a Cardinal’s home, for dinner. A very fancy restaurant,
with sommeliers hovering and waiters buzzing, it has outstanding food and a marvelous
view toward St. Peter’s and the hills. The dress code is very strict—men had to wear
coats; but in true Italian fashion (all rules are “cider house rules”) most men were in
shirts.
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At 10:30pm we hopped into the van and Dominico drove us back to Porto di
Roma. To our surprise, it took longer than the trip into Rome. Apparently, all of Italy was
going to Ostia at 11:00pm.
. It had been a truly wonderful day, and Pete and Ginny had set it up to perfection.
Claudia had been a superb tutor, giving us great detail on Rome, its history, and its art
and architecture. When Joan and I had been here in 1977 we had seen many of the same
places, but this time we understood and appreciated much more. What a treat!
And so to bed, to read and to sleep.
Ostia to Sant’ Angelo, Isola d’ Ischia, Italy
105nm
At 8:00am, well before we were ready to get up, the engines started and Hilarium
departed Porto di Roma. Our destination was the small perfect town of Santo Angelo on
Isola d’ Ischia just north of Capri and Naples.
At 10:30am Joan and I went up on deck. We were not the first to arrive, nor were
we the last. Breakfast was over at about noon and we all settled in for a nice ride with
light winds and sunny skies. Our first stop was Isola di Ponza, almost 60 miles south of
Ostia. This is a lovely island with high sandstone and limestone cliffs and deep caves
along the waterline. It is a destination place, with many boats anchored in Cala di Feola,
the harbor at the town of Feoli, where we dropped anchor at 1:00pm.The water was a
warm 77° so a swim was in order before we sat down to lunch. The ladies performed
high-precision aquabatics for the viewers, who all cheered and stamped their feet in
appreciation.
At 2:30pm we left Cala di Feoli and traveled southward along Ponza’s coast. It
was amazingly beautiful—high cliffs, some white, some gray, and others reddish, with
several small harbors at the bases holding boats at anchor. On one very high cliff a
lighthouse perched, a mountain road twisting toward it. Rock formations at the water
looked as if they had been sliced away like butter. What a glorious part of Italy. It
reminded me of a small Corsica.
After leaving the Isola di Ponza we had lunch and watched another two hours of
24. At 5:45 we approached within a few miles of Ischia. It had been almost a flat calm for
the whole day. At 6:15pm we were in the tiny harbor of Sant’ Angelo, backed up to the
seawall.
The ladies went for power shopping in Sant’ Angelo while Pete and I stayed on
board to read. At 7:30pm the ladies returned with triumphant looks on their faces, and at
8:30pm the walk to Ristorante Neptunus began. The ristorante overlooks a beautiful bay.
th
It was Marty and Carolyn’s 29 anniversary, a very special day. We had a wonderfully
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entertaining evening--they gave us whatever we wanted without asking what that might
be. It was Sabrina all over again. There was champagne, red and white wine, lots of
antipasto, and, finally, an entrée of pasta, sea bass and swordfish. The strolling musician
was wonderful, and at the end three cakes came out with the entire staff singing.
Throughout the evening the owner enthusiastically joined in the music and festivities,
including a restaurant-wide singing of Happy Birthday to Marty and Carolyn. It really
was a wonderful evening.
At 11:30pm we were back on Hilarium, and by midnight the old folks were
watching an episode of 24 while Carolyn and Marty walked the city, hand-in-hand. The
party was over at 1:00am.
And so to bed…
.
sant’ Angelo, Isola d’ Ischia to Isola d’ Capri, Italy via Positano
45nm
This is our last full day in Italy. We had an 8:30am wakeup call, and by 10:00am
we were all on deck for a pancake, egg, and bacon breakfast. It was already very warm
with the perpetual haze still hanging in the distance.
At 11:00am Hilarium backed out of the tiny harbor and we set a course for
Positano on the mainland. At 12:30pm we passed between Isola d’ Capri and Punta
Campanella on the mainland. This begins the Amalfi Coast, with Sorrento, Positano,
Amalfi, and Salerno lying along the northern edge of Golfo di Salerno. Amalfi was once
an Italian state with a bustling maritime trade. It was very defendable because the only
access was from the water so defensive forces could be focused on an invader. The
coastline from Sorrento to Positano (and beyond) has very high limestone cliffs dropping
quickly from 1000 feet down to the water. Ancient watch towers and natural caves dot
the coast. We could see cars moving slowly along the treacherous but beautiful Amalfi
Drive.
At 1:00pm we approached Positano, a pretty town with white-washed and pastelcolored homes climbing up the steep cliffs. We anchored off the beach, where most of the
restaurants and a large church dominate the scene. At 1:30pm Marty and the ladies
headed off in the tender for some shopping. To get to they climbed thousands of stone
steps straight up the hillside.
At 2:30pm Pete and I went ashore and waited ½ hour for the ladies. All but Joan
and Alice arrived and we took a large table in a beachside restaurant where Pete could
keep an eye on Hilarium. At 3:30pm Joan and Alice arrived loaded down with goodies
and we ordered lunch—most had pizzas without fish.
At 4:00pm the first group returned to Hilarium while Pete, Marty, Carolyn and
Debbie did a bit more shopping. By 4:30pm we were all together and suited up for a
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swim off of Hilarium. The water temperature was 80°, much warmer than on previous
swims, and the water was extremely salty. But oh how wonderful on such a warm day.
At 5:00pm we were on our way to Capri (“CAP-ree”), about 13 miles away. It
was still very calm and hazy. Ginny, Pete, and I watched an episode of 24, though I cut
my attendance short as we got close to Capri. The southern end of the island looks like
the remains of a massive crater but Capri is not volcanic like most other islands in the
Bay of Naples; rather, it is limestone. The “crater” enclosed about 75 percent of a circle
in high cliffs, leaving a protected cove with several boats. Just outside the cove several
very large rock formations jutted into the sky like fingers; one had a large hole in it at sea
level, giving the formation its name: Arco Naturale.
After seeing the southern end, we traveled around to the town and entered Marina
Grande, a small town whose sole function seems to be to serve a large tightly packed
marina. Capri Town, one of two main towns, is nestled 500 feet up a high cliff, and is
reached by funicular from Marina Grande. By now it seems like all coastal towns we’ve
seen (except, perhaps, Viareggio)—pastel colored buildings rising up from the sea or
perched high on hills, jumbled together like cars in a disorganized Italian parking lot.
By 6:30pm we were docked at the quay. Captain Doug had done a beautiful job
backing into the marina’s narrow fairway, dropping the anchor and twisting into position
to back in between two boats with almost no pivot room. We were between Tatasu, a
140-foot Feadship, and a lethal-looking gun-metal gray 90-foot Leopard.
The ladies and Marty headed out for a walk and a ride on the funicular to Capri
Town. Pete and I stayed on board. At 8:30pm the little wanderers returned with tragic
news: tomorrow there is a general strike in Capri to protest against the ferry boats’ offseason schedules. Apparently, they don’t run enough boats to and from the mainland so
islanders are deprived of convenient travel hours for commuting to work on the mainland.
So the shops and the major attractions like the Blue Grotto will be off limits on our only
morning in Capri. It seems a bit silly—my bet is that the ferries will just dump passengers
on Capri anyhow and the only losers will be the islanders.
At 9:00pm we sat down to at Last Supper of steak and lobster—really good! Then
another two episodes of 24 (it is going downhill) and, at 1:00am, to bed.
Isola d’ Capri to Boston, Massachusetts via Napoli, Italy
18nm
Captain Doug’s mellifluous voice shattered a deep sleep at 8:45am, announcing it
was time to wake up and it is going to be a hot one. I was on deck at 9:15am, and the
heavy haze attested to humidity and heat.
Apparently the strike is more effective than I thought. Small boats go out to block
a ferry’s entrance, and the ferry that is in the harbor hasn’t been able to leave. A crowd of
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hopeful deportees with baggage has formed. The tension does not seem very high—
perhaps this is commonplace in Italy. Cocoa Bean, a large Broward that had been next to
us, took a while to depart because of a blockade. Apparently the protesters let them
through after receiving beer and tee-shirts. What excitement!
At 11:30am, after a walk into town, we all were on Hilarious ready to leave. It
was too hot to sit outside so we sat in the salon. Our exit at 11:4am was entertaining. The
anchor was snagged on the mooring plate of the dock across from us, so for 15 minutes
we were crosswise in the fairway, blocking any exits or entrances. Once free, we entered
the short channel to the sea and were accosted by a local boat requesting, in a most
friendly way, that we give them something to drink. Tee-shirts, bottled water, and coca
cola were thrown to them, and they wished us Godspeed. So Italian!
At noon we were steaming toward Sorrento, located across Punta Campanula
from Position. At 12:45pm we were sliding along Sorrento’s waterfront. It is situated
very differently than the other towns we’ve seen. Instead of building spilling down a
steep hillside to the sea, Sorrento is built on a large flat area in top of a sheer cliff rising
up from the sea. The cliff is pockmarked by tunnels and fortifications constructed over
the years. It is quite beautiful.
During lunch we watched a gaggle of young boys jumping into the sea from an
ancient structure. At 2:30pm lunch was finished and some of the wanderers took a quick
swim in the warm water. At 3:00pm Hilarious left for the one hour trip to Naples. We
passed Mount Vesuvius but it was hidden in haze. At 4:00pm we backed up to the marina
seawall and quickly transported our bags to two waiting vans.
The 30 minute trip to the airport let us see the grand urban sprawl and traffic
congestion that is Naples. At 5:00pm we were at the airport waiting for our pilots. Soon
they showed up and we went through security, then took a bus to N801NP. At 6:20pm the
engines were lit, but they soon were turned off because the control tower had changed our
departure time to 5:45pm. The 4,200 mile flight against the jet stream would take an
estimated 8 ½ hours, putting us in Hansom at 2:15am Italian time, 8:15pm Boston time.
During our eight hour flight we made the time pass by watching eight 40-minute
episodes of 24, finishing the entire first season. It was packed with action all the way
through, with a couple of the middle episodes dragging a bit but with great beginning and
end. Everyone lied to everyone, and our hero Jack Bauer saved the lives of all the good
people except for his wife, who was a good person but a bad actress.
At 8:15pm Boston time—right on schedule—we landed at Hansom Field and
taxied to the Immigration and Customs building. After quickly checking in we taxied to
the hangar and by 9:30pm we were home. We had left Hansom before Pete but he greeted
us when we arrived home—that man can drive!
Epilogue
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Well, what can you say? Beautiful weather, great destinations, the perfect host
and hostess, and fine companions. It just doesn’t get better than this trip. Add to that the
comfort and convenience of a private plane, and a full twenty four episodes of 24, and
you’re over the top.
I have been on a boat for 45 of the last 60 days, starting with the late April
departure for the Bahamas. I would have thought I’d tire of it, but each day is different,
and the Hilarious is such a special vessel that it was even better at the end than at the
beginning.
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Boston, MA to Falmouth, MA
July 7 – 11, 2006
Chef, Stewardess and Fog Monitor Erin Fiske
Lara, Steve, Ben, Jacky and Maddy Balter
Total Trip
206 nm, 16 hours running time, 11.8 kts, 8044 gallons at 55.0 gph (Myeerah)
Prologue
This is our annual trip to visit Lara and family, who rent the house at Wood’s
Hole that we rented when she was a child. This year George and Paula Vyverberg also
rented the house behind Lara’s. They all had a great time together, but the Vyverbergs
have gone back to Naples.
On the way we will pass Kingman Yacht Center in Cataumet, where the newly
painted Tarhé is ready to be picked up; she had been left there at the end of May. Then
Myeerah and Tarhé will stay at the Nicholas’s dock. Hilarium is in the Med so there is
plenty of space.
Day 1: Friday, July 7, 2006
Boston to Falmouth
At 9:30am we caught a cab to the Waterboat Marina, and by 9:45am we were on
board with all our gear and with Smidgen. It was a very sunny day with almost no wind,
and our 10:00am departure was an easy stroll though the Harbor Islands. As we exited the
South Channel (Nantasket Roads) we saw ahead of us a string of Y-class navy boats.
These are training vessels that we have encountered several times before in the northeast.
At 1:45pm we reached the Cape Cod Canal. The current was against us so the ride
to Bourne took an hour. At 3:00pm we were anchored off Cataumet. A brief wait for the
launch and by 4:00pm I was at Kingman Yacht Center. Tarhé looked glorious in her new
paint. They did an excellent job of hull and bottom paint, and a superb cleanup to boot.
At 4:30pm Tarhé was on her way to Falmouth. Myeerah had left about 20
minutes earlier, and Tarhé caught up just before she entered Woods Hole Pass. At
5:30pm both boats entered Falmouth Harbor. After docking at Hilarium’s dock we all
cleaned up. Lara, Jacky, Maddy and Brooke, the babysitter, arrived at about 6:00pm, and
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Steve and Ben were on board at about 6:00pm and we sat down to dinner. The children
and Brooke had eaten earlier, but we had the pleasure of Ben’s company.
After dinner the adults played a video version of Trivial Pursuit called “Pop
Culture.” Brooke’s knowledge of music, movies, fads, and so on was encyclopedic, but
Steve ended up winning.
And so to bed…
Day 2: Saturday, July 8, 2006
Falmouth to Falmouth via Cuttyhunk Island
Up at 8:00am. Smidgen has now gotten to stay in our bed for the second night.
The first night she stayed at our feet, but last night she tried to stay on our pillows but had
to settle for a spot between us. She—and we—are very comfortable with the new
arrangement.
At 9:30am Steve took Ben to get a much-needed haircut, and at 10:30am Myeerah
left Falmouth Harbor for a 20-mile trip to Cuttyhunk. It was hazy with a strong sun
sending UV light to our skin.
Passing through Woods Hole was interesting—a 35-foot Sea `Ray crossed our
bow about 20 foot away, ignoring our danger signals. Perhaps he thought that he was in
the channel and we were not, unaware that there are several intersecting channels and that
we had the right-of-way. Then as we exited the Pass we saw the 235-foot Floridian going
the other way, her helicopter sitting on the boat deck. She is Greg Norman’s former boat
Aussie Rules, and is now owned by Wayne Huizenga. I had seen that helicopter heading
south as we left Falmouth; apparently Wayne was going to his boat.
At 12:15pm we reached Cuttyhunk’s outer harbor and anchored near Sea Owl, a
pretty green-hulled 90-footer. While we were having lunch Camille, a 110-foot Hatters,
arrived and went into Cuttyhunk’s inner harbor; I don’t think I ever saw a boat that big at
the town dock.
At 1:45pm five adults and three children piled into T/T Myeerah and went into
town. Joan, Lara and, Jacky, Maddy and Brooke walked to the top of the hill while
Steve, Ben, and I hung around the docks. Before leaving, ice creams were bought, and at
3:00pm we were all back at the boat.
At 3:15pm Captain Ben and Amanda took the kids tubing in Cuttyhunk’s outer
harbor. There was no need to worry about wakes—all boats arriving or leaving left as
large a wake as they could. A good time was had by all, and at 4:150pm Myeerah was on
her way back to Falmouth.
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At 6:00pm we reached Falmouth Harbor in bright sunshine, and by 6:15pm we
were at Hilarium’s dock. Lara and Joan headed out for a walk while Steve, Ben, Brooke
and I stayed behind to be sure that the girls were safe. At 7:30pm the adults went to the
sun deck for drinks and sunset, and at 8:30pm we sat down to dinner on the aft deck.
And so to bed…
Day 3: Sunday, July 9, 2006
Falmouth to Nantucket
On deck at 8:30am to slightly overcast skies and the gaze of passengers waiting
for the Island Queen to depart for Martha’s Vineyard. Today Steve and Ben will return to
Boston for several days of golf. Myeerah will go to the Nicholas’s dock at Nantucket.
After breakfast Joan and Lara took a walk. At 11:00am we started to leave the
dock but had a great deal of difficulty, as we had last year under similar circumstances. A
20-knot wind was pushing us onto the dock, and there was not much water under the
props, reducing their effectiveness. Finally we rigged an aft spring line and powered
forward, pivoting on the spring and bringing the stern out enough to back away from the
dock. At 11:30am we were out of Falmouth Harbor. It was sunny and cool, with only 2-3
foot waves in our beam.
The ride to Nantucket got a bit rocky as the wind on our starboard beam rose to
30 knots. But at 2:00pm we arrived at the jetty into the harbor. Hilarium’s slip was
occupied by Furling Hedzels, a brand new 74-foot Dolphin built by Mochi Craft, a
Ferretti division. The same boat is featured in the issue of Showboat International. It is a
beautifully designed blend of lobster boat and European styling with a light blue hull and
lots of teak rails.
Luckily, the Nicholas’s two slips so we backed in to the shorter slips. It was a bit
complicated since we had to back in port side-to so we couldn’t exit through the
starboard side door. It took a while to position ourselves properly, but at 3:00pm we all
walked out the passarel (the first time we’d used it in ages) and into town.
At 4:00pm I returned to Myeerah with Smidgen and both of us napped. At
5:30pm the ladies and girls returned. Joan’s left knee was hurting badly and she could
barely walk. Then Lara turned around and took the girls to a 6:00pm walking tour of
houses with ghosts. The guide was reported to be quite good. At 7:00pm they returned. It
was very sunny, promising a good sunset. But it was cool and windy. As we sat down to
dinner on the aft deck Joan found it too cold and went inside for dinner. Brooke, Lara,
and I stayed outside and enjoyed a great pork dinner.
After dinner Lara and Jackie decided to walk into town. Ben dressed up in a sheet
and greeted them as they walked off the boat, a reminder of their ghost tour. Both were
very surprised but Jackie burst into tears. Ben felt terrible, but after they returned both
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seemed to be in good spirits; Jackie had enjoyed the ghostly appearance, but had been too
surprised to show it!
At 9:00pm Brooke and I watched Deadwood and then Lara joined us to watch
Grey’s Anatomy. And, at 10:00pm, to bed.
Day 4: Monday, July 10, 2006
Nantucket to Falmouth
On deck at 8:30am to sunny but cool weather. Our mission today is to go on a
tour of Nantucket. After a pancake breakfast Lara walked to a drugstore to get knee brace
for Joan. Without it, Joan wouldn’t risk going on the tour. Lara returned with several
types of brace and the news that the 10:30am tour had been sold out, but we could go on
a 12:30pm tour.
So Joan and I sat around reading, doing crosswords, and watching the ferries
come and go with loads of tourists to dump into town. Meanwhile Lara, Brooke, and the
girls walked back into town. At 12:30pm we met Ara, owner of Ara’s Tours and began
our education about Nantucket. The first hour was a tour of Nantucket’s houses with an
emphasis on the prices and owners. One house on Brant Point was a new very large
duplex on land that had been bought for $12 million. Each unit was on the market for $16
million! The rich and famous have flocked to the island.
The second hour was a tour of the island. We drove to Siasconset, a beautiful
village at Nantucket’s east end, then we went to Sankaty light, the cranberry bogs, and
the golf course where Bill Clinton was not allowed to play because the Secret Service
wanted the course closed. By 2:30pm we were back on Myeerah. It had been a good tour
but it confirmed that while there is a lot on the island, there is not a lot to see.
At 3:00pm we left the Nicholas dock and headed back to Falmouth. The ride was
comfortable and at 5:30pm we were at Hilarium’s dock. Lara took Brooke and the girls to
the Nobska Point house. She would then return alone to have a last supper.
At 7:00pm Lara returned and we three sat on the aft deck talking about family,
children, and life. The wind was up, and we came inside for dinner. Over a wonderful
dinner of duck and sushi rice, we talked about the arrangements for Myeerah’s upcoming
Boston Harbor cruise that had been sold at auction for the American Cancer Society. The
event was scheduled for August 10, and it had raised $20,000 for the ACS.
At 9:00pm Lara returned to Nobska Point, and our wonderful weekend was over.
This has been a special trip for several years, made more special by the Nicholas’s
generosity in offering docks at Falmouth and Nantucket. And at 10:00pm, so to bed…
.
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Day 5: Tuesday, July 11, 2006
Falmouth to Boston
On deck at 8:30am. It was heavily overcast, and our planned 9:00am departure
was delayed by a thunderstorm that dumped rain for ½ hour. At 9:30am both Myeerah
and Tarhé left Falmouth Harbor. Both boats stayed together through the Cape Cod Canal,
where a 3-knot current ran against us.
At noon we reached the east end of the canal. Tarhé then went ahead at about 20
knots. It was an easy ride with a light following sea until the southwest wind built up as
Boston neared. At 2:00pm I anchored Tarhé off Georges Island and read for a while. The
horn was not working, and the VHF radio speaker had failed, so I tried to troubleshoot
them, with no success. Thunder could be heard in the distance, but there was no rain.
At 3:30pm Myeerah arrived and I joined her for the trip through the Harbor
islands. As we entered Boston Harbor daggers of lightning appeared and an ominous
black cloud lay over the city. At 4:00pm, just as we docked, the skies opened up for about
10 minutes.
Just after 4:00pm Joan and I got into a cab and entered the rush hour traffic jam. It
took 45 minutes to go the two miles to our home! Apparently all traffic from the Mass
Turnpike to I93 and Logan had been diverted through the city because heavy ceiling
panels had dropped from the I93-I90 connector!
Epilogue
We have done this trip so many times, but it is always fun to have Lara and family
aboard.
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NYC Maine Cruise: Annisquam to Tenant’s Harbor, ME
July 20 – 25, 2006
Chef, Stewardess, and Fog Monitor Erin Finke
Total Trip
254 nm, 21 hours running time, 12.1 kts, 1155 gallons at 55.0 gap
Prologue
John and Carol Banning, residents of Marblehead, MA and of Naples, FL, have
worked hard to arrange a “northern” cruise for members of the Naples Yacht Club. We
can join that cruise for only two days. We will board Myeerah in Manasquan on
Thursday, July 20, and go to Portland, ME for that night. On Friday we will go to
Boothbay Harbor, ME. On Saturday, July 22, the NYC group will gather in Boothbay
Harbor and will party that night. On Sunday the group goes to Tenants Harbor. After that
we will return to Portland, then to Manasquan on Tuesday, July 25. The other Nicer will
cruise northward to Bar Harbor.
On Wednesday afternoon, following work, Joan and I drove to Manasquan where
we had “family night” dinner at the Manasquan Yacht Club (AYC) with Rob’s family.
Day 1: Thursday, July 20, 2006
Annisquam to Portland, ME
68 nm, 6 hrs, 11.3 kts
For several years when we have started trips from Annisquam (perhaps 3 times
per summer) we have used the AYC launch to take us out to Myeerah, which anchors on
the west side of the sand bar across from the Annisquam lighthouse. We make the launch
request appreciating that at times of high demand we might have to wait quite a while or
forgo the service altogether. Using the launch allows us to avoid having the crew drop
and raise the tender, a time-saver under any conditions and a safety issue under some
conditions: When there are significant swells or wind waves it is treacherous to have a
1300 pound tender swinging at the end of the crane!
So at 9:30am I called the AYC launch only to learn that the young lady would not
take us out to Ipswich Bay—the launch, she said, “could not go beyond Cambridge
Beach because it took too much time.” I called Tony at the AYC to ask if this was the
result of a new policy or simply the launch captain’s personal preference. Tony was not
in but I could hear the girl at the office call the launch captain on the VHF radio. The
launch captain simply reiterated her position. There was absolutely no launch traffic at
the time (I was monitoring Ch 68 and heard no calls, and we could see both launches
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sitting unattended at the AYC dock), so this appeared to be personal laziness rather than a
concern about time.
Well, we couldn’t do anything about it—foiled by a teenager! Fortunately,
Ipswich Bay was calm, so we called Ben and Amanda to drop the tender. At 10:00am
Ben picked us up at our dock and by 10:10am we were on Myeerah.. I clocked the extra
time from Cambridge Beach to Myeerah at 3½ minutes, so those seven minutes roundtrip would have been “too much time” even when there was no demand for the launch.
Go figure!
But at least Joan and I were on board with all our gear and with Smidgen. At
10:15pm we were on our way. It was an overcast day with reports of Tropical Storm Burl
heading up the coast from North Carolina. The ride to Portland was uneventful, though a
bit rocky from swells on the starboard beam. At 4:15pm we arrived at Dimillo’s Marina
in Portland but we had to wait in the harbor for 45 minutes for Mystic, a 150-foot
Christensen, to leave our slip. By 5:15pm we were settled at the dock.
At 6:45pm Joan and I walked out to the street where Charlie and Jane Gaillard
picked us up and we drove to Hugo’s, a nearby restaurant. Hugo’s has a fixed menu with
four courses. Each course is a small serving but the food is absolutely fantastic. The
Gaillards treated us to a wonderful evening. After dinner they took us back to Dimillo’s
and drove the 45 minutes back to their home in Cape Neddick, Maine.
At 9:30pm we were on Myeerah. And so to bed…
Portland to Boothbay Harbor, ME
35 nm, 3 hrs, 11.7 kts
On deck at 9:00am to an overcast but comfortably warm. It was humid with light
wind. T.S. Burl had dumped a lot of rain in the middle of the night, but it had passed by
before morning light.
Smidgen quickly settled into the little basket in the salon that holds her leash and
combs. Clearly, she plans to go with us wherever we go! After breakfast Joan, Smidgen
and I walked in to the shopping district with, of course, Smidgen in the lead. At 11:30am
we were back on Myeerah and at 11:45am we left Dimillo’s dock.
There was very little wind, but ground swells from our starboard beam created a
slow roll that was not entirely comfortable for some female passengers. We headed
almost due east toward Boothbay Harbor, passing a number of island almost lost in a
light distant fog. Lunch was at 1:00pm, after which reading and resting were the order of
the day.
At 2:45pm we arrived at Boothbay Harbor. The sun was out, the lobster pots were
out, and the sailboats were out. By 3:00pm we were in our usual spot at Boothbay Harbor
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Marina. Once settled, Ben and Amanda dropped T/T Myeerah and Joan, Smidgen and I
walked into town for Smidgen’s comfort walk. By 4:00pm Smidgen and I were back on
the boat with a small bag of “comfort.” Joan continued on a power walk. It had now
become very overcast and rain seemed to be in the near future.
Smidgen and I went below where she caught up on much-needed sleep while I
read and wrote. Joan returned at 4:30pm. At 6:00pm we went to the aft deck for the
dinner ritual. It was overcast and cool, with threatening clouds in the distance. We had
dinner inside, then we watched the first hour of Brideshead Revisited, the 1970s
Masterpiece Theater series based on Evelyn Waugh’s book. It was as good now as it was
then, perhaps better because the intervening 30 years gave us a better understanding of
the story: a rich dissolute Lord and a poor boy meet at Oxford and live an increasingly
intertwined life. It is really about the fall of the aristocracy in England.
And so to bed…
In Boothbay Harbor, ME
Up at 9:00am after a long sleep. The only event was that Smidgen apparently felt
that I was taking too much of her pillow! It was overcast and fog had rolled in. Today is
the arrival date for the NYC cruise—I wonder if they’ll come, especially since tomorrow
is supposed to have 20-30 knot winds, making the planned trip to Tenants Harbor a rough
one.
At 11:00am Joan and I started out on a ride in T/T Myeerah. We went over to
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Wotton’s Docks, about ½ mile away, where the NYC boats had gathered: Eagle , Jim and
Marilyn Quinn’s Fleming 55; Challenger, Gordon and Marty Watson’s Sabreline, and
Paquet IV, a gorgeous black and teak Haddon built in Boothbay and owned by the
Bennings, had all arrived. The Gaillards Rocinante, a Little Harbor 54 SY, arrived later in
the afternoon. Only the Wilsons had not arrived—bad seas and heavy fog had stopped
them in Gloucester on their trip from Cape Cod.
After chatting a bit we continued on a tour of the shoreline as far as the near end
of Barters Island. The weather turned a bit toward windy and colder, and when we
returned to Myeerah for a 1:00pm lunch we ate inside. At 2:00pm it started raining—one
of those light rains that was settling in for a while. At 3:00pm Joan and I went out for a
walk. I returned to the boat just before a true gullywhumping downpour began. Joan got
back at 4:00pm--it was still raining hard.
At 5:30pm we were picked up by Gordon and Marty Watson and the Gaillards
and joined a convoy to Robby and Barbara Robert’s home on Barters Island. Robby and
Barbara were kind enough to host a cocktail party at their beautiful tongue-and-groove
home with a long screened-in deck along the front of the house. It overlooked the water
on the backside of Barters Island, and the gardens (Robby’s specialty) were gorgeous.
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Unfortunately it continued to rain heavily so the outdoor party became an indoor party.
Still, we all thoroughly enjoyed both the ambiance and the company.
By 9:00pm we were back on Myeerah—it had finally stopped raining. And so,
after the second episode of Brideshead Revisited, to bed.
Boothbay Harbor to Tenants Harbor, ME
27 nm, 2¼ hrs, 12.0 kts
The forecast for today is southwest wind gusting to 25 knots, leaving us with 4-7
foot seas. But at 8:30am it was almost windless, though still raining. The NYC group
decided to push on to Tenants Harbor, about 25 miles to the east.
At 9:30am we left Boothbay Harbor Marina and its nearby assortment of tee-shirt
shops. The rain had stopped but it was still heavily overcast. On the eastward trip to
Tenants Harbor we had 4-6 foot swells on our starboard beam, the remnants of T.S. Burl.
At 11:45pm we arrived and anchored in Long Cove, adjacent to Tenants Harbor, where
the swells were less.
After lunch Joan and I took Smidgen to town in T/T Myeerah. The NYC boats had
not arrived yet, and we wondered if they had ditched us. We docked at the Public
Landing and walked around town. There is definitely room for further development in
Tenants Harbor! Almost all the boats on mooring were from the lobster fleet, and the
homes looked pretty raggedy.
At 2:45pm we started back to Myeerah. The NYC boats had arrived—apparently
they had left about an hour behind us—and Marie and Bob Wilson had joined the fleet in
Just Perfect, having been delayed by weather. We learned that the Quinns were hosting a
cocktail party at 6:00pm on Eagle4. At 3:15pm, after checking in on each boat in the
fleet, we were back on Myeerah for R&R.
Ben and Amanda put both tenders into the water and at 6:00pm we set out to
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provide a fleet-wide taxi service to Eagle . By 6:30pm everyone was aboard and the
tenders returned to Myeerah with instructions to return at 7:15pm to take us all to the
town dock.
After a delightful cocktail party we hopped into the tenders and by 7:30pm we
were seated at the East Wind Inn, a large white structure overlooking the harbor. There
were 15 people split into two tables. The food was surprisingly good considering the
isolation of Tenants Harbor, and we had a fine time.
At 9:30pm the tenders returned to picks us up. By 10:00pm everyone had returned
to their boat. And so to bed…
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Tenants Harbor to Portland, ME
56 nm, 4¼ hrs, 13.2 kts
On deck at 8:30pm to the sunny skies and faint chill that make Maine so unique.
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At 9:45am, after breakfast, we were slid out of Long Cove and got behind Eagle and
Pacquet IV, he last NYC boats to depart. They continued eastward toward Rockland in
Penobscot Bay, while we went westward toward Portland. The Maine coast was at its
best—rough islands covered by pine trees, bays and inlets, and a blue sea under a bright
sun. How we would have liked to continue on the NYC cruise!
After some initial swells (nothing like yesterday’s) the water flattened out nicely
and the ride along the coast was very comfortable. At 2:00pm we reached Portland
Harbor and were soon tied up at Dimillo’s near Floridian. At 3:00pm Joan, Smidgen, and
I started out on a walk. At 3:30pm I returned and by 4:00pm the two ladies returned.
At 6:30pm Sally Jurgeleit, a good friend from the Watertown days, came to
dinner. She has lived in Portland for many years, and we occasionally get to see her when
we are there. At 9:30pm, after a nice evening of catching up, Sally left and so to bed…
Portland, ME to Annisquam
68 nm, 5½ hrs, 12.4 kts
The engines rumbled to life at 7:30am and at 8:00am Myeerah left DiMillo’s East
Dock. It was sunny and cool, with light wind but swells from the southeast. The ride to
Annisquam was a bit lumpy but was uneventful with the exception of a broaching by a
Minke whale right off our starboard side. As we approached Annisquam it became
calmer so at 1:30pm we dropped the tender and rode to our dock.
Epilogue
This was a nice trip. We got to “show the flag” at a Naples Yacht Club event, thus
keeping ourselves in the loop. We had a few days together, which was a treat. The
weather could have been better—it was a bit wet for the first three days--but we did not
have to activate our on-board fog monitor.
We plan no trips in August, though our kids will use Myeerah: Lara for a Boston
Harbor cocktail cruise, Michele and Rob on separate weekend trips from Newport. By
September we will be ready for our now-annual Labor Day cruise with the McGlennons
and Caroline Stride.
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Newport, RI to Long Island Sound
Chef, Stewardess, and Fog Monitor Erin Fiske
John and Mary Jane McGlennon
Caroline Stride
Jack Bullard
Total Trip
217 nm, 18½ hours running time, 11.7 kts, 1017 gallons at 55.0 gph
Prologue
This is the third annual Labor Day Expatriots Expedition. Moods dimmed by the
official passing of summer, abandoned by our children as they return home to prepare
their children for school, we leave the ancient town of Gloucester, where merriment will,
no doubt, mark the occasion, to cruise in exotic places and take sustenance from each
other’s company. (Whew!) This year the Merry Band will do Long Island Sound.
During August Myeerah had been used by our children. Lara and Steve hosted a
Boston Harbor dinner cruise, which had been bought at an American Cancer Society
fundraising auction; Rob and Victoria spent a weekend in Newport and Block Island with
friends and children (they found that Myeerah could drag anchor as it became entangled
with a moored sailboat); Michele and Thom took the next weekend at Block Island with
friends sans children—where they found that dockside at Champlin’s is a 24 hour party,
and learned of a dead body found on a nearby beach.
So this is our first time on Myeerah since the end of July. Joan and I drove down
to Newport, where Myeerah had spent the last half of August. We arrived at midafternoon on Thursday, August 31. Hurricane Ernesto, downgraded to a tropical storm
when it hit Florida, will send its remnants of wind and rain up to us over the weekend.
The weather, according to NOAA, will not be good!
After dinner we watched Moonlight Mile, a tepid romance about life and love
after tragedy: a daughter’s death brings her ex-fiancée and her dysfunctional parents
together. Even Susan Sarandon and Dustin Hoffman couldn’t breathe life into the film.
The writers should have died!
And so to bed…
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Day 1: Friday, September 1, 2006
Newport, RI to Port Jefferson, NY
90 nm, 7 hrs, 12.9 kts
On deck at 8:00am to an overcast day, but no rain yet. Our guests arrived just
after 9:00am and we quickly got underway. Departing Newport Shipyard at 9:30am,
under the steady helmsmanship of her owner, Myeerah enjoyed mild following seas and a
following current all the way to Port Jefferson, on Long Island’s north shore. Lunching at
12:30am, we passed Orient Point at 1:30pm and reached our destination at about 4:30pm.
Port Jefferson’s harbor is a large well-protected bowl entered through a narrow
jetty. On the starboard side is a large oil-fired generation plant, the only remnant of Port
Jefferson’s industrial history. We tied up at Danfords Marina’s 270-foot face dock and
walked into town. The shops are pretty low-end—salons (facial, nail, hair and tanning),
some kitschy are galleries, and small restaurants. The streets are clean and the town has
been revitalized, according to the literature.
By 5:30pm Smidgen and I were back on Myeerah while Joan took a longer walk,
as did the others. It was very overcast and the forecast was for rain and winds gusting to
40 knots.
At 6:30pm we met in the salon, it being a bit too cool on the aft deck. By 7:30pm
it had begun to drizzle and we began a dinner of scallops en papel in the dining room,
loaded with the sort of spirited conversation that Edith Wharton would enjoy (especially
in her present state).
And so to bed…
Day 2: Saturday, September 2, 2006
In Port Jefferson, NY
It rained throughout the night, while Smidgen stealthily worked her way from the
foot of the bed to sole occupancy of Joan’s pillow. I awoke at 9:00am and was soon at
breakfast with all but Mary Jane, who had stayed in her room to sleep and read. It was
occasionally drizzling, but on the whole was better than expected. Over breakfast we
decided on the day’s agenda, which turned out to be rest and relaxation. One idea—to
rent a car and go to Sagamore Hill, Theodore Roosevelt’s summer home at Oyster Bay—
was scotched when we learned that there were no rental cars available.
After breakfast Ben, John and I took T/T Myeerah to see what it was like outside
the jetty. An incoming sailboat reported 45-knot winds—a full gale—and even before we
left the protection of the harbor we were getting high winds and slosh from waves. So we
abandoned our expedition and returned to Myeerah to report that the forecasts were
correct.
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Upon returning we found that Mary Jane was up and breakfasted. Joan and
Smidgen took a walk, soon followed by all but your faithful narrator. The rain and wind
were building, and fog sat outside the harbor. We all went to lunch at Danfords’
restaurant, then we returned to Myeerah to watch Revenge of the Pink Panther—it was
absolutely hilarious so we looked forward to others in the series that the McGlennons had
brought.
In mid-afternoon the ladies went off for a walk and for facials and other selfpamperings. I stayed on board reading and napping until 6:30pm, when we met in the
salon for drinks and appetizers. After a fine dinner it was off to bed. What a demanding
day!
Day 3: Sunday, September 3, 2006
Port Jefferson, NY to Sag Harbor, NY
57 nm, 5½ hrs, 10.4 kts
On deck at 8:30am to sunny skies which quickly gloomed over as clouds came in.
After a blueberry pancake breakfast the sun came out and Joan, Caroline and John took a
Smidgenless walk. They were back by 10:15am and your fearless narrator took Myeerah
off the dock at 10:30am. The wind had died considerably since yesterday’s gale forces,
but the clouds rolled in again as we passed one of the huge car ferries arriving from New
Haven, New London, or Bridgeport.
Our destination was Sag Harbor, at Long Island’s eastern end. As we turned
eastward the sun came out and we encountered swells on the bow but almost no wind.
Further east even the swells flattened out. It was sunny, warm, comfortable and flat—four
for four, so to speak.
At 1:30pm we passed through The Race and rounded Orient Point into Gardiner
Bay, which was like a lake. By 2:30pm we had passed the quaint stone lighthouse that
guards the entrance to Shelter Island, and by 3:00pm we were backed into our slip at Sag
Harbor between Indiscretion, a 120-foot Broward with a car on its boat deck, and Life’s
Finest II, an equally long vessel with no identity.
Soon after, we all walked into Sag Harbor. I returned after ½ hour with Smidgen
while the others shopped. Ben dove for the bowline that had been dropped in the water
when we tried to put it on a piling. But soon all had arrived and we settled down to
prepare for a grand evening. At 6:00pm we met on the sun deck, where we watched all
the action on the adjacent boats. Regrettably, the only swimmers in Indescretion‘s jacuzzi
were two rubber ducks—we had hoped for more! And on our port side was a gentleman
who sat reading on the flybridge deck while young people came on the boat and thanked
him saying, in my imagination, “Don Frederico, I kiss your hand and thank you for your
help to my familia.”
At 7:30pm we went to dinner on the aft deck. After a great dinner we went to the
salon to watch The Pink Panther. But is was a farcical version of what we had all
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remembered, with no emphasis on Peter Sellers (Inspector Clouseau) and a great
emphasis on David Niven. It must have been intended as a parody (like Casino Royale,
David Niven’s parody of James Bond Movies)! Awful!!!
I remained awake until it was—blissfully—over. Others had bailed out early.
And so to bed…
Day 4: Monday, September 4, 2006
Sag Harbor, NY to Block Island, RI
46 nm, 4 hrs,11.5 kts
Ahhhh…Labor Day! The official end of a short summer. It is also Erin’s last full
day on Myeerah.
On deck at 8:30am to a sunny but cool morning. After breakfast Joan and
Caroline took a walk and, on their return, Myeerah slipped away. It was 10:45am. Our
destination was Block Island, but we took the long route around Shelter Island, past
Greenport, NY and, at noon, the Long Beach Light. Some of the estates along the way
were magnificent—huge house with vast lawns down to the seawall, some with
impressive formal gardens. It must be swell to be a swell!
At 12:15pm we were on our way to Block Island, engaged in a veritable frenzy of
reading. I finished Moby Dick while sitting on the aft deck. As we proceeded eastward
the following sea built up but it remained comfortable. At 2:45pm we arrived at Great
Salt Pond and dropped the hook. The sky had become cloudy, promising that the forecast
for rain would be correct, and the wind picked up.
Once settled, we began to think of our next steps. John, Mary Jane, and Jack
decided to take an island taxi tour, while Joan wanted to take a walk and Caroline wanted
to explore the Pond in the tender. So I took them in to Champlin’s dinghy dock on T/T
Myeerah. Caroline and I did a harbor tour, then we picked Joan and Smidgen up and
returned to Myeerah. Just after getting aboard we heard a small plane flying low and
looked up to see it towing a banner with big red letters saying ‘It’s Over—Go Home!”
At 4:30pm I took the tender back in to collect John, Mary Jane, and Jack after
their hour-long tour. They reported a very successful tour during which they were
thoroughly briefed on Block Island’s history, lore, geography, and social structure. We
watched Tiger Woods win yet another golf tournament, and at 6:00pm we all met on the
aft deck to give Erin an official well-wishing. Our gift to her was a Massachusetts pewter
mug engraved with “Erin K. Fiske—Fog Monitor—M/Y Myeerah.”
After dinner we watched On the Trail of the Pink Panther, the last in the series.
Apparently, Peter Sellers had died while it was being made, so it abruptly segued into
flashbacks from previous Panther films. It was not good. All in all, I wonder why the
series was so well received.
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Day 5: Tuesday, September 5, 2006
Block Island, RI to Newport
24 nm, 2 hrs,12.0 kts
Awake at 7:30am and on deck by 7:45am. It was sunny and warmish but with the
feel of fall in the air. The forecast had been for rain—another miss, perhaps, but as the
morning went on the clouds did build.
At 9:30am, after breakfast, we manned the capstan, raised the starboard bower
(John’s very words), and slipped quietly out of the Great Salt Pond. In doing so we were
following the advice of yesterday’s pilot—it is over, and we’re going home!
The trip to Newport was in very calm water. At 11:30am we were at the Newport
Shipyard, and by noon we were all driving home.
Epilogue
The Third Annual Labor Day Expatriates Cruise was deemed a success. In spite
of cool and sometimes wet weather, the ports were interesting in a very low-key way, and
the cruising was in calm waters. Regrettably, Jack had a bad cold and was a bit under the
weather, but all spirits were high and the good humor flowed freely.
Myeerah will head back to Boston today. Erin will leave her for good—a sad
moment for all, and in two days Ben and Amanda will take a well-earned vacation in
Ocean City, MD, near her family. Myeerah will sit in Boston until late September when a
guy trip to Maine is scheduled.
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Annisquam MA to Maine
September 26 – October 2, 2006
Second Mate and Chef Mark Fleischer
John McGlennon
Bill Stone
John Benning
Total Trip
Prologue
This is the last trip of the 2006 Northern season—a guy trip with no particular
itinerary. John McGlennon has done this before, but John Benning and Bill Stone are
newbies; poor them! On September 25 I drove up to Annisquam to finish varnishing the
Picnic Boat—four coats of AwlSpar on all the brightwork except the cabin. She was now
ready to be shipped to Naples without fear of brightwork deterioration.
At about 4:00pm Myeerah arrived at Ipswich Bay, anchoring off of Annisquam.
Mark and Ben came in to put away the summer things at the two houses. A job well
done!
Day 1: Tuesday, September 26, 2006
Annisquam to Christmas Cove, ME
86 nm, 7½ hrs, 12.9 kts
At 8:30am John, John, Bill and I gathered at the Barnacle dock and packed our
bags and ourselves into Drag On, which will be towed on our trip as a tender. By 9:00am
we were on Myeerah and ready to leave. After ½ hour of not proceeding I discovered that
the starboard winch had broken and that we couldn’t get the anchor up. It was the same
problem that we had had on the port side two years ago in Georgetown, Great Exuma
Island.. By 10:00am Ben had it fixed well enough to raise the anchor, and we were off.
The ride to Christmas Cove was uneventful—sunny and cool with a brisk wind on
our port quarter. At 5:30pm we arrived and took up the face dock at the Coveside Marina.
The marina had been for sale and to protect it from development a group of residents had
bought it. One of them, Tom, was managing the restaurant and acted as a gracious host.
By 7:00pm we were sitting on the deck at the Coveside Restaurant warming ourselves at
a fire. The dinner was excellent. It is so nice that such a gem will be preserved.
And so to bed…
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Day 2: Wednesday, September 27, 2006
Christmas Cove, ME to Dark Harbor, ME
45 nm, 4 hrs, 11.2 kts
Awake at 7:30am and on deck at 8:00am. It was sunny and very cool. After a very
good breakfast (blueberry pancakes) the four of us hopped onto Drag On. The plan was
to do some exploring and fishing, then to meet Myeerah at Metinicus Island off of
Penobscot Bay.
We first went to a nearby marina to fuel up (84.2 gallons at $3.37 per gallon),
then we went 15 miles up the Damariscotta River to the town of Damariscotta. It was a
beautiful ride on a lovely Maine waterway that was quite calm. We then returned to
Bristol, ME (just up the river from Christmas Cove) and went through a swing bridge and
along a channel into Johns Bay. The wind had come up and it was cold and lumpy as we
went down the bay to Pemaquid Point. I called Ben and we decided that Metinicus Island
would be a tough ride in light of winds and seas, so we redirected our destination to Dark
Harbor on the west side of Islesboro Island in Penobscot Bay.
The ride from Pemaquid Point to Egg Island, about 15 miles, was not pleasant.
We had 3-5 foot breaking waves on the starboard bow and it got pretty wet. Fortunately,
John Benning is an expert on Maine and is very familiar with Penobscot Bay, so he
directed us from Egg Island through a tortuous channel to Port Clyde. At noon we docked
at the Port Clyde General Store and bought fish chowder to go with the lunch that Mark
had packed for us.
After lunch we headed up Penobscot Bay to Rockland, where we stopped to buy
some oil for Drag On’s new Yamaha engines. The oil was supposed to be changed at 10
hours but 33 hours had passed. I had not planned to change it until winter storage, but the
decision to bring Drag On on the trip meant that it should be done sooner rather than
later. John Benning had assured me that Hamilton’s Discount Marine Supply Store was
the perfect place to find anything nautical--he was right!
Soon we left Rockland and rode the ten miles or so to meet Myeerah at Dark
Harbor on Islesboro. The skies had become cloudy but the ride was in the lee of some
islands so it was more pleasant. At 3:30pm we were rafted to Myeerah. It was time to
decompress after a rough day at sea. We read and rested while Ben changed the oil on the
Yamahas.
At 6:00pm we gathered on the aft deck for drinks, after which we enjoyed a very
good dinner of lobster and shrimp on rice, followed by cobbler and homemade ice cream.
After dinner the other three played cards while, at 8:30pm, I went to my room for an
early evening.
And so, at 9:00pm, to bed.
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Day 3: Thursday, September 28, 2006
Dark Harbor, ME to Roque Island, ME
86 nm, 7½ hrs, 12.3 kts
Awake at 7:30am and on deck at 8:00am for an early start to Roque Island. The
weather was perfect—for Maine: cold, very cloudy, with a brisk wind. I suppose that the
moose love it.
At 8:30am we headed north on the east side of Islesboro Island. By 10:00am we
had rounded the turn by Castine, ME, and soon after we entered Eggomoggin Reach. At
10:45am we reached Brooklin, ME, where the world-famous Wooden Boat School is
located. We hopped onto Drag On and went to the Brooklin Boat Yard for a look.
Myeerah then went on to Swan’s Island to wait for us.
The visit to the boat yard was very interesting. There were two sloops under
construction in a large shed, one 56 feet and the other 59 feet. They were both lying hull
up. One was being planked and the second was being faired: the wooden bungs that
covered brass screws were being sanded down to make a smooth wooden hull. Other
boats in various states of repair were in smaller sheds. The workmen were very nice,
happy to talk with us about the process.
At 11:45am we were back on Drag On headed toward Casco Passage. At noon we
met Myeerah at Swan’s Island, where we returned to warmth and comfort. To add to our
joy, the sun came out! After an excellent lunch of chicken, salad, and potatoes, followed
by vanilla sorbet, we all went into a stupor and enjoyed a brief rest in the salon.
At 3:00pm we reached Moosebec Reach and by 3:30pm we had reached
Jonesport, passing under the 39 foot bridge with at least three feet to spare. Soon after we
passed under the bridge a lobsterman quaintly flipped us the finger, expressing his
distaste at our presence. We proceeded the two miles to Roque Island, where, at 4:00pm,
we anchored in the Thorofare to avoid the perpetual swell. It was very peaceful and
tranquil, with no other boats around and with perfectly still water.
During the day I had finished The Templars, a book on the history of the Crusades
and of the “Poor Fellow-Soldiers of Jesus Christ and the Temple of Solomon,” a military
order commonly called the Knights Templar. Its basic message was that this was a group
of uneducated knights formed to protect pilgrims to Jerusalem and to reclaim the Holy
Land for Christianity; after 200 years it was violently disbanded by Philip IV of France
and Pope Clement II because Philip wanted to claim the Templar estates, which were
abundant in France. The author discredits the notion that the Templars were the keepers
of great wealth and great secrets (a la The Da Vinci Code). They were honest and pure,
with military power but without the smarts to defend themselves from Philip’s greed.
Well, to end the digression, when we arrived at Roque Island Drag On
disconnected from Myeerah and the four of us took a tour of the island. We first went
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through the Thorofare to Roque Island Harbor, then to the adjacent Lakeman Island
Harbor. Then we went around the island, visiting Shorey Cove, where the Gardiner
family has its compound, and back to Myeerah in the Thorofare. It was sunny, reasonably
calm, and very pleasant.
By 5:30pm we had returned to base. At about 6:00pm we met on the aft deck and
enjoyed drinks, repartee, and a beautiful sunset over calm water. Then we went inside to
a fantastically good veal dinner, warmed by John McGlennon’s predictions of global
warming and its disastrous consequences. By 9:00pm we had disbanded
And so to bed…
Day 4: Friday, September 29, 2006
Roque Island, ME to Southwest Harbor, Me
45 nm, 4½ hrs, 10.0 kts
Awake at 7:30am and on deck at 8:00am to heavy fog and a very brisk 30-knot
wind. After breakfast Drag On disconnected and Myeerah lifted anchor. Once she was
under way, Drag On led Myeerah out of the narrow channel. Reconnecting was a bit
dicey as swells were rolling in along with wind-driven waves. But at 9:30am we were
back on board and underway. Visibility was near zero and all we could do was sit tight.
Because of the lobster pots and the winding ledge-lined channel of Moosebec
Reach we decided to go outside. It was not pleasant—30-35 knot winds put heavy seas on
our port beam and we rolled quite a bit; Drag On got tossed around about 50 yards
behind, but she held fast. The fog made it very difficult to avoid lobster pots and when
we reached Southeast Harbor at 2:00pm lines of pots trailed us into the harbor; we had
hundreds of feet of lines fouling our rudders and propellers . It was raining as Drag On
disconnected. Myeerah’s maneuverability was so poor that we tied to a mooring rather
than attempt to get in to Great Harbor Marina at Southwest Harbor’s head.
John Benning and I took Drag On to the harbor’s head to get a rigging knife at the
West Marine store so Ben could cut away the line. It began to rain very heavily and we
returned to Myeerah very wet. Ben cut away the lines on one side before running out of
air in his scuba tank. He and Amanda then took Drag On in to get the tank refilled while
we four had a late lunch of Korean ribs, rice with black beans, and Asian salad.
By 4:30pm the rain had stopped and sun was peeking through in the West. Ben
and Amanda returned and he started working on the lines on the starboard rudder and
prop. Once that was all cleared I went down for a well-earned nap.
At 7:00pm we met in the salon for drinks and light appetizers. We were all a bit
tired from the day’s activities, though I was refreshed from my nap. At about 8:00pm we
sat down in the dining room for a very tasty scallop dinner—great sauce! After a spirited
conversation—John on global warming (again) and Al Gore’s merits, Bill and I on the
AYC yacht launch policy—we went to the salon to watch the DVD of Office Space. By
10:45pm we retired.
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Southwest Harbor, ME to Ebenecook Harbor, ME
97 nm, 8½ hrs, 11.4 kts
On deck at 8:00am to a sunny, calm, and very cool mooring—two out of three
ain’t bad! Ben and Amanda had gone into Southwest Harbor to get newspapers and drop
off our several hundred feet of lobster pot line. When they returned we set out for a ten
mile round trip down Somes Sound; it was 9:00am. The cliffs, the rugged shoreline, and
the magnificent houses were, and always are, a sight to see. We passed Fred Towers
home—he is a new member of the Naples Yacht Club. On the way down the Sound we
had breakfast.
By 10:00am we had returned to our starting place and were exiting Southwest
Harbor for Swan’s Island and Eggomogin Reach. Our destination was Boothbay Regional
Boatyard in Ebenecook Harbor on the Sheepscot River at the northwest end of Southport
Island (just west of Boothbay Harbor). After being so beaten up yesterday we decided to
go the more scenic and serene rout through Penobscot Bay. The view of Mount Desert
Island, and of Cadillac Mountain rising above it, was very impressive.
By noon we had passed through the Reach and entered East Penobscot Bay. Still
very cool, it was sunny and almost perfectly calm as we headed down the east side of
Islesboro Island. After lunch we passed through Muscle Shoal and entered the Atlantic,
where 3-5 foot seas had been accurately forecast. It was certainly more comfortable than
yesterday, but something of a setback after the earlier calm.
At 3:30pm we passed Monhegan Island with about 25 miles to go. Tiger Woods
had won the third day of a tournament with an eagle on the 18th hole, so the boat was
ecstatic. All was well in the world, with a few minor exceptions.
Reaching Pemaquid Point at 4:30pm, rounding Southport Island into the
Sheepscot River at 5:00pm, we were moored in Ebenecook Harbor at 5:30pm. At 6:30pm
John McGlennon’s step brother and his wife, Joe and Joan Parker, came aboard for
cocktails—their summer home was about 100 yards from our mooring; in the winter they
are in Marblehead. They were very nice and it was good of John to introduce us to them.
At 7:30pm we sat down to dinner—fantastic lamb chops!
After dinner we started watching Das Boot, but McGlennon and Benning fell fast
asleep, so we decided to watch it some other time.
And so to bed…
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Day 6: Sunday, October 1, 2006
Ebenecook Harbor, ME to Portland, ME
33 nm, 3 hrs, 11.0 kts
On deck at 8:30am to an overcast sky and an east wind at 25-30 knots. After
breakfast we took Drag On to the boatyard dock and dropped John B. and Bill off to walk
to the general store for newspapers. John M. and I toured the harbor and then hung off the
dock waiting for our papers. At 10:30am we were all back on Myeerah and underway.
Our plan was to go to Kennebunkport, but we had steady six-footers on our port
beam and it was a very uncomfortable roll. John M. and Bill slept through much of it!
The tow line was getting a workout as Drag On lurched around, sometimes almost
slipping sideways. Going into Kennebunkport would mean navigating between the
narrow jetties with a strong following sea and a boat in tow—not smart! So to take the
stress off of the boats and ourselves we diverted to Portland, arriving at DiMillo’s at
1:30pm.
After a 2:30pm lunch of Cornish Game Hen we started to walk to town but just as
we stepped out the rain began. Bill and John B. decided to continue by John M. and I
stayed behind to watch the American Express Championship being played in England.
Tiger Woods was 20 strokes below par and six strokes ahead when we started watching.
By the finish he was 23 strokes low and eight ahead.
At 4:00pm it was the Patriots-Bengals game, where the Pats won by a landslide.
At 7:00pm we met in the salon—it was raining and blowing hard outside—and at 8:30pm
we started dinner—perfectly cooked steak with herb butter. After dinner we watched
more of Das Boot, but once again all but me fell asleep. So we called it a night to leave
the rest for tomorrow.
And so to bed…
Day 7: Monday, October 2, 2006
66 nm, 5½ hrs, 11.0 kts
On deck at 8:00am to gray skies but no rain. The forecast is for winds at 20-25
knots but shifting to the northwest, with 4-6 foots seas. After breakfast of Eggs Benedict
we left the dock and connected Drag On with a long tow. At 8:45am we were on our way
out of Portland Harbor.
Much to our pleasure and surprise, the winds were light and the sea was
reasonably calm with some swells coming from the east. It was a very comfortable ride,
and a great improvement over yesterday. To occupy our time we watched the end of Das
Boot, then sat around in the salon, reading and watching CNN.
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After reaching the Isles of Shoals the wind picked up dramatically—to 35-40
knots. But it was from the shore so it wasn’t too bad, perhaps 3-5 foot waves. However,
when we arrived at Annisquam at 2:15pm it was too lumpy to safely transfer to Drag On,
so we went on to Rockport’s Sandy Bay where we were in the lee. From there we sped
around Rockport to Gloucester Harbor and up the Annisquam River. Our trip was over!
Epilogue
With the exception of the weather—always cold, often gray, and sometimes
windy—this has been a fun trip. Bill and the two Johns have been great companions, and
John B.’s knowledge of Maine has been a great asset. John M., as usual, has been very
creative in his recommendations and advice. Bill has been engaged and engaging, a
source of good conversation.
Mark has shown himself to be an outstanding chef. His culinary skills and his
marine knowledge and experience will be a great asset. Ben and Amanda have, as
always, been energetic and delightful.
Myeerah has performed well, with the exception of the starboard anchor winch
and the recurrence of the port-side stabilizer shudder in heavy seas. Those will get fixed
in Ft. Lauderdale, where a long list of maintenance items will be completed.
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New Year’s Eve Dinner Cruise
December 31, 2006
David and Julie Whately
Penny Love
Charlie and Jane Gaillard had invited us, along with other guests, to the New
Year’s Eve bash at the Port Royal Club, where we would have dinner and watch the
Naples fireworks. We had not used Myeerah since the fall, and we had been invited to the
Gaillards several times. So we asked them all to consider joining us for a dinner cruise
where we could see the fireworks from the boat. They agreed.
At 4:30pm we all boarded Myeerah and left its (new) slip at the Yacht Club. The
early departure was so that we could be outside Gordon Pass for the sunset. It was
overcast, so we doubted that the sunset would be very interesting, but when it came at
5:30pm the clouds had parted and it was quite nice.
We cruised north along the shore in calm water, then we returned to anchor off
the Naples Pier, with a number of other boats. After an excellent dinner of lobster and
filet mignon, we settled down to watch the 7:30pm fireworks. Amanda had bought New
Year finery—boas with dancing lights and tiaras for the ladies, hats for the men, and
exploding crackers which gave a delicately tiny “pop” when the string was pulled.
It was an extremely pleasant evening. The Whateleys were delightful—urbane,
articulate, interesting people. Penny Love was vivacious and energetic. And the Gaillards
were, as always, just plain fun to be with.
By 8:30pm the fireworks were over—they were quite a show—and we joined the
line of boats heading in through Gordon Pass. By 9:30pm we had docked and by
10:00pm Joan and I were at home. It had been a brief but very fun event.
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January 5 – 8, 2007
Total Trip
Prologue
This is a short trip—just Joan and me—for my 64th birthday. We will go to Boca
Grande and have dinner with Pete and Ginny Nicholas on Friday, then, on Saturday,
dinner with my cousin Jane Fortune, whom I haven’t seen in 30+ years, and her
significant other, Bob Hess.
Myeerah has been undergoing a major refit for two months in Ft. Lauderdale.
Almost all of the work has been mechanical, though the salon and two large staterooms
were redecorated. It was a long list: replacing the AC units, enlarging the stabilizer fins,
fixing our many hydraulic problems (rear stairs, swim ladder), installing a fender and rail
system for the swim platform so boats could safely tie up and passengers could embark or
disembark. In addition, major engine and generator work was done.
In spite of all the time allowed, much was not finished. The AC unit installation,
the installation of the new aft stairs, and the receipt of the new fender system would be
completed after our return to Naples. The message is that people will use every available
day and still leave you short!
Day 1: Friday, January 5, 2007
55 nm, 5¼ hrs, 11.0 kts
At 10:00am Joan and I arrived at the Naples Yacht Club, where Myeerah is now
docked after several years on a wait list. We were met by Ben and Mark, who carried our
stuff to the boat. It was windy and sunny with a humid haze.
At 10:15am we left the dock for the slow ride out through the Bay and Gordon
Pass. On exiting the pass we turned north. It was very comfortable with a slight following
sea. At 1:15pm, as we sat down to lunch on the aft deck, we reached the southern tip of
Sanibel Island. Now there was more fetch so the seas were larger, but still quite easy. It
was still mostly sunny with a brisk southeast wind.
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At 2:30pm we reached the outer buoy at Boca Grande Pass. The northern side of
the Pass was being dredged and we stayed outside the southern side of the channel. After
a slow entry to Boca Grande Harbor we backed into the Nicholas’s slip next to Hilarium.
Joan, Smidgen, and I took a nice walk to the Gasparilla Inn and back. As we
returned to Boca Grande Marina we saw Pete, who had been reviewing plans and
progress on the new facilities. He showed us through what will be the Eagle Grille. It will
be an extremely high-end restaurant with reproductions of his marine paintings (Fitz
Henry Lane, Samuel Badger, etc.) and of his carved Bellamy Eagles). Very impressive! It
was supposed to be completed by Thanksgiving, now by February (no way!).
Joan continued her walk while I returned to the boat with Smidgen. At 6:30pm,
after showering and reading, we went on deck to greet the Nicholases. We had a great
dinner and fine conversation and too much wine. By 10:00pm we had said our goodbyes/
And so to bed…
Day 2: Saturday, January 6, 2007
In Boca Grande, FL
Up at 8:30am to a warm and sunny day with little wind. After breakfast Joan and I
took a ride in the tender around the town. On the way we saw an absolutely gorgeous
light yellow Dolphin, Ferretti’s version of a Picnic Boat.
By 12:30pm we had returned to Myeerah for lunch. Since nothing is happening in
Boca Grande, we read and rested until 3:15pm, when we set out with Smidgen in a golf
cart to the doggie playground, which is for small dogs from 3:30pm to 4:00pm, then for
all dogs. We met some nice dogs and owners. Smidgen was very shy.
At 4:00pm we left the playground and took a tour of the town, such as it is. By
4:30pm we were back on Myeerah. A bit more resting was in order.
At 6:30pm Jane Fortune and Bob Hess arrived. We had a great evening catching
up on the last 20+ years, and both Joan and I thoroughly enjoyed meeting Bob. We
agreed to give Bob the assignment of organizing a family reunion in Indianapolis in
2008. He accepted the assignment with grace. By 9:30pm they were on their way back to
their condo.
And so to bed…
In Boca Grande, FL
Up again at 8:30am to a cooler and cloudier morning. After breakfast Joan,
Smidgen, and I took a long walk around town. Then back to the boat until 12:30pm,
when we started out in the tender for lunch at Cabbage Key, just across from Useppa
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Island. Cabbage Key was started in 1929 as a private island. After the owner’s death it
became an Old-Florida fishing resort for celebrities: Ernest Hemingway, Clark Gable,
etc. It now has a restaurant, several rental cottages, and some large private houses. It still
is about as Old-Florida as one can find.
We docked and walked the short distance to the restaurant. This was a real
experience. The restaurant is draped in dollar bills taped to the ceilings, counters, and
posts. Our waiter, a strange guy named Tricia, served us the worst food in Florida. But he
did it with panache and a very limp wrist. At the table next to us were two youngish
couples. One of the women had the largest breasts money could buy. They (the breasts,
not the people) were so excessive that I couldn’t take my eyes off them. They (the people,
not the breasts) were knocking back beers like Olympic champions.
After a short walk around the island we got back on the tender and returned to
Boca Grande. Then we took the golf cart to doggie playground. Smidgen played
vigorously with the other small dogs, and by 4:30pm we were back on Myeerah. Because
the tide would be low in the morning we decided to leave Boca Grande at high tide and
anchor off Useppa Island. By 5:00pm we were underway and by 5:30pm we were at
anchor between Useppa and Cabbage Key.
After a beautiful 5:45pm sunset we had appetizers and dinner. Then at 9:00pm we
watched the first episode of the new season Desperate Housewives.
And so, at 10:00pm, to bed…
Day 4: Monday, January 8, 2007
Boca Grande, FL to Naples, FL
55 nm, 5¼ hrs, 11.0 kts
At 8:00am I was on deck to a sunny, moderately warm, and almost windless
morning. Before Joan came up I finished the Sunday New York Times crossword
puzzle—the first time I had ever finished it (Amanda did bring her research skills and
high IQ to my assistance) and watched the boats go by.
At 9:45am, after a light breakfast, Myeerah lifted anchor and slowly crept out to
Boca Grande Pass (at one point we had only a foot of water below us). By 10:30m we
were out of the Pass heading south to Naples. It was almost dead calm. A pleasant ride to
Naples ended at 3:00pm when we docked at the Naples Yacht Club.
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502
Naples, FL to the Dry Tortugas
John “Jack” Curtin
Hugh “John” Pearson
John Benning
Total Trip
Prologue
This is a guy trip during which Joan entertains friends in Naples. All three guests
(The Three Johns) have been on previous trips. John Pearson was on the aborted Dry
Tortugas trip in March, 2006, when an engine problem forced diversion to Everglades
City, John Benning was on last September’s Maine trip, and Jack Curtin has been on
earlier Maine trips.
This is the first major trip since Myeerah’s refit in Ft. Lauderdale in NovemberDecember, 2006. Among the items done then was a major maintenance of the two diesel
generator engines, which had about 7,000 hours on them: injection pumps and fuel
injectors were removed, tested, reset, and reinstalled. Regrettably, this preventative
maintenance turned out to be destructive maintenance: After only 15 hours of operation
the large generator’s diesel engine suffered damage in two of the four cylinders. We
suspect that it was a timing problem introduced by the injection pump work, but whatever
it was, RPM Diesel did it and is trying every excuse to get off the hook.
Clearly, a bad piece of work had been done. Ben and I have now developed an “If
it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” maintenance schedule. Because the standards of workmanship
in the industry are so abysmally low, we will do routine maintenance but not try to
prevent problems. Instead, we will wait for problems to arise and, hopefully, do the work
once instead of twice.
Fortunately, we should be able to complete the trip on the smaller generator,
hoping that RPM Diesel didn’t trash it as well.
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110 nm, 10 hrs, 11.0 kts
Jack and Nancy Curtin arrived on February 25 from Boca Grande, where they had
stayed for a week. At 8:30am on the 26th John Benning and John Pearson arrived at the
Naples Yacht Club and boarded Myeerah, which then headed out to the Gulf. When it
passed our house, Jack and I hopped onto T/T Myeerah (now the name of our 20-foot
Boston Whaler) and followed Myeerah. At 9:30am we had the Whaler under tow and
were heading south in a deep fog.
There was very little wind and a slight swell from the south. After a noon lunch in
the pilothouse the fog began to lift, the swell disappeared, and we had a comfortable time
reading and talking as we headed toward Fort Jefferson.
At 6:00pm we reached the channel into the harbor and disconnected T/T Myeerah.
John Benning and I took the tender into the harbor to scout out a spot. In what was once a
crowded harbor there were only a few boats, but they were so spread out that stopping
space was limited. Eventually we found a spot and Myeerah anchored at 6:30pm. But we
expected to be asked to move in the morning because we were in the channel.
Soon after we were anchored, three large Goliath Groupers joined us, swimming
off the stern in the warm water of the generator’s exhaust. At 7:00pm we sat down to
dinner on the aft deck. After a fine dinner, some good wine, and spirited conversation, we
watched 24 at 9:00pm. And so, at 10:00pm, to bed.
At the Dry Tortugas
On deck at 7:30am to a sunny, warm and humid day. There was very little wind
and a dead calm harbor. At 9:30am, after breakfast, the four Johns and I (“Ben” included)
hopped onto T/T Myeerah with the fishing gear.
New regulations have restricted fishing to within one mile of Fort Jefferson fort or
outside a box with its southeast corner at 24˚36’N and 82˚51’ W. This puts my normal
fishing spot (the wreck south of Loggerhead Key) off limits, but we headed over there to
see the Key and the wreck.
Then we headed to a spot south of the Fort just past the reefs protecting the
harbor. We anchored and fished with ballyhoo and shrimp. Jack Curtin had several strong
strikes but lost each one until he brought in a small Yellowtail Snapper. I dropped a
ballyhoo just off the boat and watched in the shallow water as a large grouper took it.
Unfortunately, the line broke, but soon after that the same grouper took the next ballyhoo
and I boated it. It was a Red Grouper of about 15 pounds. After taking a picture we
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released it because new regulations prohibit recreational fishermen from taking any
grouper in the Gulf between February 15 and March 15..
Having no other success, we returned to Myeerah at 1:00pm for lunch. During
lunch we learned that there was a worldwide sell off of equities, starting in China and
Japan and working its way westward to the U.S., The dollar was sold heavily, but U.S.
Treasuries were up in price.
At 1:45pm Ben took the three Johns and Mark to the fort for a tour. I watched
CNBC for a bit, then went down to read and nap. At 5:00pm I was on deck with a fishing
rod and a ballyhoo trying to hook one of the three Goliath Groupers that was circling
under the boat. They were too smart!
We sat down for drinks and appetizers at 6:00pm and had a great lobster dinner,
during which we dissected the political situation and the day’s financial chaos—the Dow
had ended down over 400 points, having been down 560 points during the day!
And so to bed.
The Dry Tortugas to Key West
68 nm, 5½ hrs,
On deck by 8:00am. It was sunny and warm, with light wind. The Snooty Terns
were making a racket on Bush Key, and the Frigate birds were wheeling around above
the Fort on Garden Key. At 9:00am, after breakfast, we headed out of the Northwest
Channel and, on reaching the edge of the park, turned east toward Key West.
After two hours of comfortable travel, Jack, John Pearson and I sat down to play
three-handed bridge. It was—for me—very instructive because both would tell me what
they would have done. At 12:30pm we broke for a “light” lunch of chicken pot pie.
After lunch we read and watched CNBC until we entered the channel to Key
West. T/T Myeerah was disconnected and Jack and I followed Myeerah in to the Conch
Harbor Marina in Key West Bight. At 2:30pm we were rafted to Myeerah and all was
well. At 3:30pm the three Johns walked in to Mallory Square while Ben and I went to
West Marine for a bilge pump for T/T Myeerah.
On returning to Myeerah, I went to my room to catch up on email. At 6:00pm
Joan called and we chatted a bit. Then after a shower, I went up on deck to find that the
three Johns had returned after visiting Mel Fisher’s Atoche museum. Drinks, appetizers,
and dinner followed, with spirited discussion of (this time) nonpolitical matters. At
9:30pm we retired.
And so to bed.
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In Key West
On deck by 8:00am. It was sunny and warm. Our plan was to take the Key West
Trolley to see the sights, particularly the Truman White House, Hemingway’s house, and
the Butterfly Museum.
But at 9:00am Mark told us that a fishing guide he knew was at the docks and
would be happy to take us out for ½ day. I proposed this to the committee and it was
voted 3-to-1 to investigate further (John Pearson abstained). So Jack and I went to see
Captain Moe in Reel Easy, his not-too-well-maintained 30-foot Dorado. At 10:00am
Benning, Curtin, and I were on Reel Easy heading to the outer end of Northwest Channel.
Our targets were tarpon, snapper, and grouper (which Moe swore was legal for
recreational fishing in the Gulf). We arrived at our spot at 10:30am and anchored near
other hopefuls. The sun was strong but a breeze kept us cool.
After dropping the anchor, Moe instructed us on using the reels. He had buckets
filled with a small bait fish. For tarpon he would cut them in two and throw them
overboard one-by-one as chum. The idea was that you let your bait join the chum and
drift with the current. The two Johns took up the tarpon fishing gear while took a third,
smaller, rod to go for snappers. Within an hour I had caught several yellowfin and
mangrove (gray) snappers. These were stored to be filleted for tomorrow’s lunch.
Benning and Curtin were having less luck on the stronger gear, though several hits were
experienced.
Then the tables turned. The snappers got smart and ate without hooking on, while
Benning caught an American sharpnose shark (also called a Spinner). Then, with about
an hour left, Benning hooked a tarpon. The fight was on and the tarpon jumped several
times. As Moe said, it was a “horse.” When it was landed it turned in at 6½ feet long and
about 140 pounds—a beautiful and hard-won fish. The photos are very impressive.
It was close to the end of our four hours, so we headed home, arriving at 1:30pm.
Moe filleted our snappers and congratulated us on our success (and himself on earning
$500). We returned to Myeerah to meet Pearson, and the four of us went for lunch at the
nearby Turkey Kraals Restaurant.
After lunch I returned to the boat while the three Johns went on the trolley tour.
They returned at 5:00pm, having stayed on the trolley and missing the intended venues. I
was power-napping and met them on the deck at 6:30pm. At 7:00pm we took a cab to
Louie’s Backyard Restaurant, one of Key West’s finest. It is right on the Atlantic and we
were seated in the very large outdoor eating area. It was a balmy night with a full moon—
delightful. We all had the grilled shrimp with grits—excellent, but it was a huge portion
and very rich.
At 9:30pm we were back on Myeerah. And so to bed…
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Key West to Naples
95 nm, 8 hrs,
On deck at 7:30am to another warm, sunny, almost windless day. After breakfast
we prepared for departure and by 8:30am T/T Myeerah was under tow. As we headed
north a slight following sea pushed us along. There was a lot of reading and, before
lunching at 12:45pm, an hour of bridge.
At 4:00pm we arrived at Gordon Pass. It had been a great ride—and a great trip.
Epilogue
This was a great trip. The four of us all got along well—no surprise—the weather was
great, we caught memorable fish, and we enjoyed the rough life of boaters.
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Naples, FL to the “The Ruins”
March 22, 2007
Passengers Peter Fortune and Joan Fortune
Lara and Steve Balter
Allie, Ben, Jackie and Maddy Balter
Total Trip
48 nm, 2 hours running time, 12.0 kts, 110 gallons at 55.0 gph
Prologue
This is a day trip for lunch at “The Ruins,” a sandy beach at the southern tip of
Kice Island below Marco Island. Two houses have been settling into the water for 30
years since a storm took away most of the land in front of them. One house finally
disappeared with 2006’s Hurricane Wilma. The second—a modular structure of white
domes—is now just a shell.
The Balters have been visiting for a week and today is our only day on Myeerah.
Naples to Cape Romano and Back
48 nm, 4 hrs, 12.0 kts
We all arrived at the Naples Yacht Club at 10:00am and by 11:00am Myeerah
was underway. The sky was cloudy and threatening, and there was a strong east wind.
But, being intrepid and very brave, we headed south to the ruins.
We arrived at 1:00pm after a gentle ride in the lee of the coast. There was nobody
else on the beach at the ruins—for good reason. We had a lunch of homemade pizza, after
which Steve and the Balter kids joined me on the Nautica for a short exploration. I
dropped them off at the beach in a strong current, and they walked around a bit and threw
shells into the water. After about 10 minutes we returned to Myeerah and at 2:00pm we
headed back to Naples. It was gentle water but a spitting rain.
We arrived at the Naples Yacht Club at 4:30pm.
Epilogue
No big thing!
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Naples, FL to the “The Ruins”
March 25, 2007
Dick and` Charlotte Kopcke
Total Trip
Prologue
Dick Kopcke is a colleague and good friend who has appeared in this narrative
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many times over the years: he has crewed on Good Fortune and on Tarhe, and he has
been on Myeerah several times.
Dick and Charlotte visited Naples—she for the first time, he for the second—
arriving on Saturday, March 24, the day that the Balters left. We decided to invite them
for a lunch trip to The Ruins, it being one of the few close destinations accessible by
Myeerah.
Day 1: Sunday, March 25, 2007
Naples to Cape Romano and Back
48 nm, 4 hrs, 12.0 kts
The schedule was identical to the previous trip. At 11:00am Myeerah departed the
Naples Yacht Club. But this time the weather was very good—warm and sunny, but with
a strong east wind still blowing.
The trip south was gentle, being in the lee. We arrived off the ruins at 1:00pm.
There were many small boats on the beach and a larger 40-foot SeaRay anchored
offshore. After an excellent lunch of Chilean Sea Bass I took the Kopckes in the Nautica
for a short tour of the southern end of Kice Island. The houses that had once been along
the south-eastern tip of the island were gone-Hurricane Wilma was undoubtedly the
reason—so the only structure in sight was “the ruin.” The inlet to a shallow cove had
filled in. We saw dolphin, kitesurfers, and lots of people on the beach and on the
sandbars. Unlike our previous visit, this was a busy place.
Myeerah departed at 2:30pm and by 4:30pm we were back at the Naples Yacht
Club.
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Epilogue
This was a very pleasant trip. Dick and I talked about economics in particular and
the world in general; Joan and Charlotte discussed children, pets and the important
things.
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Naples, FL to the Everglades City
March 27 - 29, 2007
Dick Kopcke
Total Trip
Prologue
Charlotte Kopcke had to return to Boston on Tuesday, March27. But Dick stayed
for a short fishing trip to Everglades City. After seeing his wife off at Regional Southwest
Airport, Dick drove to our house for departure on the T/T Myeerah to meet Myeerah in
the Gulf.
48 nm, 4¾ hrs, 12.0 kts
At 11:00am Myeerah left the Naples Yacht Club for a meeting in the Gulf. At
11:20am Joan and I saw her go by the house, and at noon Dick arrived. We hopped into
the Whaler and by 12:15pm we were on board, heading south with the Whaler in tow. It
was cloudy and the wind was still brisk but from the east.
The ride to Indian Key was uneventful except for the discovery of a stowaway. A
small bird began flying alongside. He had probably been blown offshore and was too
tired to fly back to shore against the wind. He came on board and walked around the deck
finding edibles.
At 4:30pm we arrived at Indian Key and Dick and I took the tender for a visit to
Everglades City while Myeerah worked her way in to the anchorage just inside Indian
Key. Everglades City seemed bleaker than ever. The residential development at the
entrance (two condo buildings and docks ) had been abandoned after Hurricane Wilma,
and the only activity was the noisy airboats patrolling the rivers.
At 5:00pm we returned to Myeerah, cleaned up, and, at 6:30pm, we met for
dinner and drinks on the aft deck. A superb steak dinner later, we headed to our rooms for
an early shuteye. And so to bed…
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At Everglades City
On deck by 8:00am to a sunny but cool morning. Ben had taken T/T Myeerah to
Everglades City for newspapers—a daunting task—after trying four locations he returned
with the Naples Daily News!
At 9:30am, after a light breakfast, Dick, Ben and I piled onto T/T Myeerah and
headed out to catch the big fish. Ben had been charged with getting bait, and had bought
rubber mullets and shrimp that were soaked in smelly stuff. They were touted as catnip
for fish.
Regrettably, the fish didn’t know this. We went into a narrow channel through the
mangroves and anchored for an hour—no bites. Then we went to the mangroves near
Myeerah—no bites. Spying a large white yacht anchored off of Indian Key, we went to
investigate. She was Lady Val, a 120-footer built by North Coast Yachts.
We then headed into Indian Key Pass toward Everglades City. Anchoring well out
of the channel we tried to tease out fish bites, but with no success. We suddenly realized
where the fish were, so we sped to the Rod & Gun Club, where we enjoyed grouper
sandwiches.
By 2:00pm we were back on Myeerah for well-deserved reading and resting time.
After some time reading George Stigler’s essay on “The Ricardian Theory of Value and
Distribution” my eyelids drooped and sleep crept in on padded feet. But at 5:00pm I was
on deck, alert, and ready for more fishing. Perhaps we can catch the little critters at their
supper time. So at 5:30pm we took the tender to the mangroves and, once again, came up
empty—not even a bite.
At 6:45pm we were back on Myeerah. We left one line with rubber mullet in the
water just for luck and went to the sundeck for drinks, sunset, and Johnnie Cash. After a
fine sunset, we went down for dinner. A catfish had taken the bait—so we weren’t
entirely out of luck.
At 9:30pm we were in our staterooms. And so to bed…
Everglades City to Naples
48 nm, 4¾ hrs, 12.0 kts
Again, on deck by 8:00am. Sunny, little wind, and a bit cool. After breakfast we
fished off the tender while it was still tethered to the swim platform. Several catfish were
caught, and I caught a real fish—about 3 pounds with an elongated body and yellow
speckles on the top half; I think it was a mackerel.
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At 10:30am we left the anchorage, just after Lady Val had slipped in to anchor
next to us. The ride to Naples was uneventful, and at about 2:15pm Dick and I
disconnected from the mother ship and took T/T Myeerah to the house. Myeerah
continued on to the Naples Yacht Club.
Epilogue
Short but very sweet. Excellent weather, few fish, but good company. Dick had
not done that sort of trip and I think he really enjoyed it. We had lots of good
conversation, much of it about economics.
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March 14 - 28, 2007
John and Linda Flatley
Alan and Carolyn Keller
Total Trip
352 nm, 31¼ hours running time, 11.3 kts, 1,750 gallons at 55.0 gph
Prologue
This is the end of our winter in Naples. Myeerah left on April 27 for Fort
Lauderdale, where she would have her main generator rebuilt. Then on May 10 she left
for Emerald Bay Resort Marina at the north end of Great Exuma Island. On May 14 the
six of us boarded a Piper Navaho in Naples and, at 10:30am, left for Mosstown on Great
Exuma Island.
The flight was uneventful—2¼ hours and 357nm. Large brush fires in Georgia
had spewed smoke into the south Florida skies and the ground was obscured even at
7,000 feet. We skirted a thunderstorm over Miami, getting only a few jolts at the end.
Once we reached Andros Island the clouds dispersed and we could see the remarkably
shallow sand banks on the Exuma Banks.
Naples to Great Exuma Island, the Bahamas
357nm, 2¼ hrs, 159.0 kts
At 12:45pm we landed at Mosstown, quickly passing through customs and
boarding a decrepit rental van driven by Ben. Our first destination was the Packing House
at Mt. Thompson, where the Department of Agriculture took our $15 entry fee for
Smidgen. The Packing House is an old warehouse where food produced for export is
weighed. It is listed on the island brochures as a destination—NOT!
Then to Myeerah at Emerald Bay Marina, where we unpacked and had lunch on
the warm and sunny aft deck. Following lunch we drove the van into Georgetown, where
some light shopping was done. Then on to Rolletown, a few shacks situated above a
beautiful bay. There the Kellers saw a type of bird they had not seen before.
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At 5:30pm we were back on the boat. After an hour to clean up we met on the
boat deck for drinks, then we had a fine dinner on the aft deck.
And so to bed…
At Emerald Bay, Great Exuma Island, the Bahamas
On deck at 8:30am after a heavy rain. The winds were 15-20 knots but sizable
swells were forecast. After breakfast a committee was formed to plan our next few days.
It recommended that we cancel the Rum Cay-San Salvador Island leg and substitute for it
a cruise up the Exumas. We would stay at Emerald Cay today and head to Sampson Cay
tomorrow.
Today is Joan’s 65th birthday; she has requested that there be no recognition of the
event, but the crew has let the cat out of the bag. Before lunch I gave Joan her birthday
present—a gold necklace—and after lunch we were served a red velvet cake to recognize
Joan’s coming of age. That was the extent of the celebration.
The afternoon was a quiet one. John and I laid back and read while Alan and
Carolyn took the car to search for exotic birds, returning with news of a very rare
Mangrove Cuckoo. Joan, Carolyn, and Linda took a long walk along the Emerald Bay
golf course. Much of the day had threatening skies but no rain.
At 6:30 pm we met in the salon for drinks; it began to rain heavily and the wind
picked up. At 7:00pm Ben drove us to the restaurant at Emerald Bay’s Four Seasons
Resort. We had an outstanding dinner with excellent service, and by 9:30pm we were
back on Myeerah.
And so to bed…
Great Exuma Island to Sampson Cay, the Bahamas
50 nm, 4½ hrs, 11.1 kts
On deck at 8:30am to 35-knot winds and an all-night rain. We watches Lady
Frances IV, a 100-foot Broward, enter the marina driven sideways through the narrow
fairway between reefs by 7 foot swells—a heart stopping sight! Clearly, this was a “one
chance” entry—you either make it or you end up on the reefs.
After breakfast it began to clear and the wind died to about 20 knots from the
SSE. We left the dock at 10:00am and drove through some large swells before turning
NW to Dotham Cut at Black Point Settlement. Once we were on course the seas were on
our starboard quarter; when deep water was reached it was quite comfortable.
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Throughout the morning Alan had expressed deep fears of death when we exited
Emerald Bay. After strapping on all the Relief-Band watches we had, screwing his eyes
shut, and moaning continuously, he pronounced our departure, once completed, to be
“boring.” What a guy: like Li’l Abner’s Joe @#$%^&*() but with humor!
At 1:00pm we cleared Dotham Cut, entering Exuma Bank and passing Black
Point Settlement. I had expected a significant decrease in wave action because there were
SSE winds on the Exuma Sound side and we would be in the lee. But a brisk wind was
blowing from the SSW on the Exuma Bank side so it was not as calm as expected. Still, it
was an improvement. The sun was out and the weather had improved dramatically since
we had left Emerald Bay.
We lunched on the way to Sampson Cay, where Ben skillfully backed Myeerah
into the dock on the outside of the basin between a boat on the dock and an adjacent boat.
We were all settled by 2:30pm, when Smidgen took Joan for a short walk. At 3:00pm
John, Carolyn, Joan, and I walked to a beach where the ladies swam. There I met Alan
and he and I walked to the beach at the end of the road, then returned to the boat. Clouds
were coming in, but in the breaks between it was very hot.
At 4:00pm we all took T/T Myeerah on a ride north through Pipe Creek to
Compass Cay, where we toured the desolate marina and took a look at the large beach
across the cay from the marina, on the Exuma Sound side. By 5:30pm we were back at
Myeerah. At 6:30pm we met on the sun deck where we stayed until driven out by the nosee-ums. Then we had a fine dinner and, afterward, a spirited game of 31—a card game
introduced by the Flatleys.
And so to bed…
At Sampson Cay, the Bahamas
On deck at 8:45am. Swells coming into our dock were breaking up into strong
chop. The sun was strong and hot, like a cup of Starbucks. At 10:00am, after a light
breakfast, we all went off in the tender to Staniel Cay, via the east side of Big Majors
Spot. We saw the rock containing Thunderball Grotto, but the tide was too high to see the
grotto. We passed Staniel Cay to go to Dotham Cut, where Alan had seen some birds he
wanted to revisit. But the waves were a bit strong and we didn’t want to get too wet, so
we returned to Sampson Cay via the west side of Big Majors Spot, passing thru the
narrow but deep cut at the Fowl Cay Resort.
Before returning to the boat we stopped at the beach across from the basin at the
Sampson Cay Club, where we swam and snorkeled. The water was warm and the tide
was going out. T/T Myeerah got beached and we had some trouble getting her back to the
water for departure. But by 1:00pm we were back on the Myeerah.
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After a great gumbo soup lunch, some of us walked and others stayed on the boat
to read and nap. At 5:00pm Lara called with the news that George Vyverberg had gone
into the Tampa hospital for his heart transplant! Alan and I took the tender for a tour
around Sampson Cay. The wind had died and it was very calm—for once!
At 6:30pm we all met on the sun deck to watch a beautiful sunset. Then we had a
tuna dinner and played 31. John won handily—as usual. I was second.
And so to bed…
Sampson Cay to Warderick Wells, the Bahamas
22 nm, 2 hrs, 11.0 kts
At 7:45am the phone rang—it was Paula saying that George had gone into the OR
at 5:30am for his heart transplant. The operation was expected to take 6 or 7 hours.
Fingers crossed!
On deck at 8:00am. It was a repeat of yesterday morning—strong sun and enough
wind to create a roll at the dock. We had breakfast on the aft deck, then some folks
walked while the crew prepared to leave. Our destination was Warderick Wells, a cay
that once served as a fresh water port and is now the headquarters of the Exuma Cays
Land and Sea Park. It is only 15 miles north of Sampson Cay. The ride was pleasant but
slow because of shallow water on Exuma Bank.
At noon sharp we attached to mooring ball number 2 in the North Anchorage,
about ½ mile north of Park headquarters. A large rain squall was just approaching but
looked like it would pass by on our east side. Just to our south was light green water
where a sandy harbor opened for smaller boats. It was quite beautiful.
At about 12:30pm Ben took everyone but me to a nearby beach, where they took a
“ten minute” swim while Ben and Alan went to check in at headquarters. An hour later
Ben picked the others up at the beach—the young woman volunteer who was at the desk
had wanted to chat at great length.
While having lunch on the aft deck we were haunted by a laughing gull that
hovered near the stern watching our food. After lunch we were planning the afternoon
when dark clouds rolled in and it began to rain. So we went into rest mode until it
cleared.
At 2:30pm we took the tender to the dilapidated dinghy dock at the Park
headquarters and started a walk to Boo Boo Hill, elevation 70 feet. Legend has it that a
boat of missionaries fetched up on Wardewick Wells’s rocks in a storm and the bodies
were buried on that hill. Custom requires that anyone who climbs the hill must leave a
memento; we had brought a Myeerah pen.. Unfortunately, we chickened out when the
path turned in to a gnarly lava field. So we redirected to a swim at Turnabout Beach, the
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perfect crescent with a sand bottom just off of our mooring where the “ten minute swim”
had happened yesterday..
At 5:30pm we were back on Myeerah. Joan called Marty Telfer about George—
he had made it through surgery!!! At 6:30pm we gathered on the aft deck. Arietta, a
100-foot Westport, had taken the number 1 mooring spot. It was a beautiful sunset and a
fine dinner.
And so to bed…
Warderick Wells to Staniel Cay, the Bahamas
22 nm, 2 hrs, 11.0 kts
On deck at 8:45am. It was cloudy with waterspouts reported off Staniel Cay. Joan
was throwing the ball for Smidgen and it went overboard, inducing a doggy-ball
overboard rescue operation—a success.
At 10:00am Myeerah left its mooring and headed ten miles south, where she
anchored on the west side of Bell Island at 11:00am, just off what appeared to be a large
boat shed with a condo building next to it. Bell Island is now a private island that has
been developed by a wealthy owner for his family and staff; it has several houses and
living places as well as a large dry storage spot for boats. The guidebooks report it as
tasteless and oversized architecture.
The tender was dropped and we all headed to one of the best snorkeling spots in
the Exumas—the Sea Aquarium Coral Garden at the northwest tip of O’Brien Cay. This
is a very small (150 foot long) lava rock with two mooring balls for dinghies. The coral
reef is only about 50 feet square, but the fish are wonderful—yellow and black striped
Sergeant Majors, large yellow-tailed jacks, large blue fish, and small iridescent-blue fish.
By 1:00pm we were back at Myeerah, ready for lunch. It was Mexican day—
tortillas with chicken, rice, refried beans and, to top it off , Snickerdoodle cookies. After
lunch some swam off Myeerah—the water had become flat calm.
At 2:30pm, after a swim off the boat, we noticed a weather front moving in and
lifted the tender in preparation for departure to Staniel Cay. We headed out through
Conch Cut, between Bell Island and Compass Cay, and saw a poorly formed water spout
as we exited the cut. Rain started as we turned south toward Staniel Cay, but we soon left
it behind. At 3:30pm we entered the Staniel Cay cut and approached the docks at Staniel
Cay Yacht Club. There was some confusion—more boats had kept their appointments
than were expected--so it was 4:30pm before we were docked. The only other large boats
were Watercolours, a 110-foot Trinity, and Olga, an 80-footer.
Everybody but your narrator took a walk, but they returned soon because it began
to rain. I read for a while and at 6:00pm joined the group at the aft deck. We went to the
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sun deck and watched a lovely sunset over several boats anchored off of the yacht club.
Then we went to the aft deck for dinner--filet mignon. By 10:00pm we had disbursed.
And so to bed…
At Staniel Cay, the Bahamas
On deck at 8:00am. It was partly cloudy with large cumulus and darker rain
clouds in the distance. The Flatleys were flying out to Nassau on Flamingo Air at
9:45am. The plane was a bit late but we walked to a hill overlooking the air strip and
watched it take off at 10:15am. As we were returning to the boat a few raindrops fell.
We watched the weather come in and lazed around the salon. At about noon an
80-foot Hargrave named Hooter Patrol IV arrived at the adjacent dock, followed by its
30-foot tender, Hooters. The rain soon began to fall in earnest, so at 12:30pm we had
lunch in the pilothouse. After lunch we lazed in the salon while the rain continued.
At 2:45pm the fun began. The Kellers and eight other passengers got on a jitney
pulled by a golf cart, with about 12 tons of baggage in the back. As they bounced off
toward the airport, dropping bags along the way, Joan and I took a walk with Smidgen.
We ended up at the airstrip where everyone was waiting in the terminal—an open air
lean-to. The Flamingo Air rep, Samantha, reported that the weather was bad in Nassau
and the pilots would not fly. While everyone else hopped on to two charter planes and
flew to Ft. Lauderdale, we sat listening to Samantha try to square away the situation.
Eventually she announced that the Kellers could take the plane that would leave Nassau
for Staniel Cay at 9:00am tomorrow.
So we walked back to the boat dragging two carry-on bags, arriving at 4:30pm. It
was now sunny and bright as, we suspect, it had been in Nassau: Sunday is not a day that
pilots want to fly unless they are charter pilots who will lose big bucks. Tomorrow is
another day.
At 4:30pm Alan, Carolyn and Joan took the tender to birdwatching grounds and to
see the feral pigs on Big Majors Spot. The pigs swim out to you for food. They returned
at about 6:00pm to report that “King Pig” and a follower had tried to climb aboard in
their search for food.
Just before their return Hooter Patrol III arrived—a 45-foot boat which is a
companion to Hooter Patrol IV and to the large fishing tender, Hooter. The day had been
a succession of boats arriving—Vov, a 51-foot yellow-hulled Mochicraft Dolphin;
Pathfinder, a Fleming 55; Mrs. Red Stripe, a 90-foot Haakvoort Trawler named after the
Jamaican beer. Some came in only to fuel, others stayed at the dock.
At 7:00pm we had drinks, watched the sunset, and had a great dinner of Paella.
Then we watched The Sopranos tumble further into chaos.
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And so to bed…
Staniel Cay to Highborne Cay, the Bahamas
44 nm, 4¼ hrs, 10.1 kts
On deck at 8:00am. The weather seems perfect but the weather report for the next
few days is bad—ENE winds at 20-30 knots with 10 foot seas outside the islands. The
Kellers are hoping that Flamingo Air wants to fly, so at 8:45am Alan went to the airstrip
to talk with our friend Samantha, who was not there in spite of her assurances. But word
came that a Flamingo Air flight had left Nassau for Staniel Cay at 9:00am, so Alan
returned and he and Carolyn boarded a jitney again and headed back to the airstrip. Joan
walked over to see them off and returned, reporting that they had climbed aboard a very
small four-passenger plane with five passengers (one in the copilot’s seat) and had taken
off at 10:15am.
At 10:45am Myeerah left the Staniel Cay Yacht Club and headed up the Exuma
Bank to Highborne Cay. Clouds had begun to develop, but it was dry and a very nice ride
in the lee. At about 2:00pm we had gone 36 miles and were passing Norman Cay, home
of the 1970s Bahamian drug trade. At 2:30pm we approached Highborne Cay. Anchored
outside were two very large yachts, Ohana and the familiar Top Times, each about 150
feet. Just arriving to anchor outside was Litos, a 98 foot Azimut that was beautifully
Sunseeker-like. Litos charters for a mere $40,000 per week (plus all extras like fuel,
dockage, provisioning, and crew tips of 10-15%). By 3:00pm we were at our dock near
Octopussy, a 42m (140 foot) blue-hulled jet drive boat of built in 1988 by Heesen—at the
time she was the fastest private yacht in the world (53 kts).
Joan, Smidgen, and I took a walk, noting that Mr. Bones, the patient fellow
waiting for the bus, must have finally gotten aboard (it is a skeleton with a hard had
sitting on a bench at the “Bus Stop”). The planned-for development of the island had
made no progress in the past two years. Smidgen and I returned to the boat while Joan
walked further. I read and napped (Smidgen just read) and, after returning to the boat,
Joan went to the adjacent beach, where Amanda and Ben were also enjoying a respite. At
6:30pm we were in the pilothouse checking email. The marina had filled up for the night.
We had a great salmon dinner and watched the sunset light up the gaps in storm
clouds coming in. Among the walkers along the dock were the current charterers of
Litos—a nice young Mexican family with three young children.
And so to bed…
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Highborne Cay to Royal Island , the Bahamas
70 nm, 6 hrs, 11.7 kts
Our first morning without guests and we slept a bit late, about 8:30am. On deck at
9:00am to slate gray skies and steady but light rain. At 10:30am, after a Smidgen walk
and a light breakfast, we moved to the Highborne Cay Marina fuel dock, where we took
on 1,000 gallons at $3.81 per gallon. That will give us enough to get to Ft. Lauderdale if
we go slowly.
Our destination today is Current Cut, through which we will enter the bight
containing Spanish Wells and Royal Island. We will anchor south of the cut, off of
Current Island, where we can take the tender in to Current Settlement. The settlement was
heavily damaged by Hurricane Andrew and has since been rebuilt and freshened up.
At 12:00pm we left the fuel dock and headed across the Yellow Banks toward
New Providence Island, using the deep-water Ship Channel. Seas were 3-5 feet on our
beam, creating a rolling motion. The rain soon stopped and the clouds began to thin
slowly.
At about 2:30pm we turned to the northeast with the seas on our starboard bow,
heading toward Fleming Channel; our original plan to go to Current Cut had been
abandoned because we would not get much protection at anchor—we would now go to
the harbor at Royal Island off of Spanish Wells.
At 3:00pm Mark raced out of his cabin saying that his porthole had given way.
The starboard side porthole has had a chronic leak and it had sprung a leak again. There
was no danger as the porthole was in the head and the water would just go into the bilge
and be pumped out. But now we have to find a permanent solution—we will probably
just have the porthole glassed over and reinforced on the outside so water pressure can’t
create problems.
At 4:00pm we were entering Fleeming Channel, having traveled 50 miles and
with 20 miles to go. We reached Royal Island at 6;00pm and were quickly anchored. The
ruins of the old estate looked as they had when we were last here, but a new construction
dock had been built and signs told you to stay off the island. The work on the new Greg
Norman Golf Resort was in its very early stages.
There was a steady 30 knot wind, and even in the harbor there was a 1-2 foot
chop. At about 7:00pm, as we were sitting on the aft deck, I noticed that we were
dragging anchor and moving rather rapidly westward. Ben and Amanda reset the anchor
while we had dinner. Through the night they set an anchor watch.
I went to bed early and Joan stayed up to watch House and Boston Legal.
And so to bed…
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Day 9:Wednesday, May 23, 2007
At Royal Island , the Bahamas
Awake at 9:00am after a night in the arms of Mr. Ambien. On deck at 9:15am to a
continuation of yesterday’s 30-knot winds, Ben reported that they had seen 40-knot gusts
and that the anchor had dragged, but only slightly.
After a light breakfast Smidgen, Joan, and I headed out in the tender for a walk in
Spanish Wells, ten miles away. A mile of beating our 14-foot tender into 4 foot waves
convinced is to turn around and sled with the waves back to the island. We passed the cut
into Royal Island harbor and investigated the western tip of the island. Finally we saw
signs of construction—a large beach and several beach houses were constructed.
Apparently, if you build a beach, they will come!
By 11:00am we were back on Myeerah, a great pleasure to Smidgen. Amanda
called our weather service and found that this front had settled in and that the east winds
and high waves would continue, probably until we our scheduled return to Boston on
May 30. If we didn’t develop Plan B we might not get across the Gulf Stream to meet our
plane. So Plan B became an action plan—we rescheduled our plane to pick us up on
Monday the 28 th in Nassau.
The afternoon was a lazy one. I worked on notes for the seminar I’ll teach in the
fall, and I finished A Land Remembered, a novel about the development of southern
Florida from the vantage point of three generations of a pioneer family. Joan washed
Smidgen and walked around the deck a few times with Smidgen in attendance. At
6:00pm we went to the aft deck, where the wind was still blowing strong, a steady 35
with gusts up to 50 kts. We now had both anchors out—about 250 feet on each side-because we had dragged a bit; we were swinging like a monkey on an outhouse roof.
We had dinner inside. Then Joan went down to watch a DVD of Benji. I tried to
watch the last episode of Lost, but we were swinging so much that the satellite couldn’t
track. So I read until 10:30pm.
And so to bed…
Royal Island to Highborne Cay, the Bahamas
70 nm, 5¾ hrs, 12.2 kts
Awake at 8:30am and on deck at 9:00am. Ben reported that the wind had died
down by 7:00am, but that it was now building. Clearly, the check we’d sent to pay the
weather bill had bounced!
We decided to get the anchors up and start back to Highborne Cay as soon as
possible. By 9:30am we were on our way. The seas should be on our stern so it would be
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reasonably comfortable. For the first 3 hours that was true, but then—just after lunch—
we turned so that the seas were on our beam. Winds were 35 knots and we were rocking
and rolling.
With an hour left we began to get into the calmer water near the lee of Exuma
Bank. At 3:15pm we were docked at Highborne Cay—again. The wind speed had
reached forty knots as we entered the cut.
Octopussy was still here, and now Endurance, a 90-foot expedition yacht with
very high forward freeboard, was in the marina. At 4:00pm Joan and I took a walk to the
southern end of the cay. After this, we swam at the gorgeous small beach right across
from the marina. Then it was time for showers, drinks and dinner; we were carefully
watched by Laughing Gulls, one perched on each of the dock pilings.
And so to bed…
At Highborne Cay, the Bahamas
On deck at 9:30am—the island life is setting in! Octopussy was just leaving. The
skies were uniformly gray and the wind was still strong from the east. After breakfast,
Joan walked while I stayed behind and read. I have started on Quicksilver, the first of
Neil Stephenson’s Baroque Cycle trilogy. It is about the 17 th and 18th century intellectuals
who were charter members of the Royal Society: Samuel Pepys, Isaac Newton, Roger
Hooke, and so on. The discourse among them is riotous, as is their fumbling search for
knowledge in Natural Philosophy through bizarre experiments. Stephenson is a very
erudite writer deeply versed in the eras he writes about, who uses that as a platform for
some very funny passages. I highly recommend Cryptonomicon, his rip-roaring tale of
WWII.
After lunch I learned how to do a fax by email, then at 3:00pm Joan and I walked
the main (and only) road on the island; Mr. Bones was back! At 4:30pm we went for a
dip at the adjacent beach and watched the late afternoon arrival of big boats. The main
attractions were Za Zu, a beautiful 1970 canoe-sterned 95-foot Feadship; Entrepreneur, a
110-foot blue-hulled Broward; and Man of Steel, a 123-foot Heesen. All are charter boats.
At 6:30pm, after a rest, Joan and I went to the aft deck. The bad news was that Za
Zu was blocking our view of the sunset; the good news was that there wasn’t going to be
a sunset. But we had a great duck dinner looking at the beautiful prow of Za Zu.
And so to bed…
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Highborne Cay to Normans Cay, the Bahamas…and back
28 nm, 2½ hrs, 11.2 kts
Awake at 9:00am and on deck at 9:20am—a bit later each day. The sun was out
but the easterly wind was still strong. The marina had cleared out earlier when three
smaller boats left. Today it was supposed to be full for the Memorial Day weekend, but
the winds were keeping the arrivals away.
At 10:45am we left Highborne Cay Marina for a day trip to Norman’s Cay, 14
miles south. Norman’s Cay was famous in the 1960s and 1970s as a quiet island with a
very nice small resort, an airstrip, and nice private homes. But Carlos Lehder, a
Colombian drug king, took the island over in the late 1970s, driving the residents of the
pristine cay away and destroying the Norman Cay Club. While residents have since
returned, and a small three-cottage rental operation exists next to the air strip, the recent
housing has been built on Wax Cay, just to the south of Norman’s Cay. Wax Cay had no
housing in Lehder’s day except for two houses he constructed so he and his staff could
get away from the stress of business on Norman’s Cay. In the early 1980s U.S. federal
agents occupied Wax Cay and used it as a spot from which to spy on Lehder’s operation.
Soon the feds moved in and closed Lehder down, but not before his band of poordeportment thugs had closed the island down, even engaging in such eco-unfriendly
activities as leaving a bullet-riddled DC3 in the shallows of the harbor.
At 12:00pm we anchored off of a small lava cay between Norman’s and Wax
Cays. At 12:15pm Joan and I took the tender to the northern end of Wax Cay, where
about a dozen houses have been built on gorgeous beach around a boat basin cut through
the rock. At 1:00pm we returned to Myeerah for lunch, while Ben and Amanda took the
tender to explore Norman’s Cay.
After lunch Joan and I took the tender to explore Norman’s Cay. First we went to
the southwest end to see the three gaily-painted rental cottages by the airstrip. Then we
went around to the southern end of the harbor to see the DC3, now a very rusted and
almost-gone hulk; the only substantial piece is the left wing. On our way we were passing
the southern end of the airstrip when a twin engine prop plane screamed by about 30 feet
overhead on its approach to the airstrip. Later we saw a skiff heading over to Wax Cay,
probably with the plane’s occupants.
We docked at the old Norman Cay Club pier and took Smidgen for a walk. Our
first stop was the ruin of the club’s restaurant, situated at the top of a hill with great views
and now-overgrown gardens. It must have been beautiful in its day. Below it is a low
building probably used as offices, and at the nearby beach were the remains of an outdoor
bar with a large deck. Several small cottages could be seen in the woods.
At 3:00pm we were back on the boat, and at 3:15pm we were on our way back to
Highborne Cay. We docked at Highborne Cay at 4:30pm. Joan walked, then we both
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went to the beach for a last swim. As we were coming back to shore a brief and light rain
shower fell. Soon Jade Mary, a 106-foot Leopard made by Italyachts, arrived. She was
Azimut in style but with extremely high freeboard making her appear very seaworthy.
She was driven by three jet drives. A very pretty and impressive boat!
We had a great dinner—again—and retired to read.
And do to bed…
Highborne Cay to Nassau, New Providence Island, the Bahamas
46 nm, 4¼ hrs, 10.8 kts
Our last full day on Myeerah. Awake at 8:45am and on deck at 9:00am. It was
cloudy and still windy. After breakfast Joan walked and the crew prepared to depart for
Nassau. Jade Mary and Za Zu left, and at 11:00pm we followed.
Soon after leaving Highborne Cay we encountered Continental Drifter III, Jimmy
Buffet’s 124-foot yacht, a Delta with a Ted Hood-blue hull, also heading to Nassau. We
kept close to them—and them to us—for the remaining four hours. The seas were on our
beam and at times we felt like wholly rollers.
Most of the trip was spent reading, or communing with a solitary fly that kept
seeking our attention. It could have been Highborne Cay-bred, but its familiarity with
boats suggested that it had stowed away before. Smidgen tried to catch it through frontal
attacks. I was more subtle and tried to acquaint it with a good book. But its agility was
too much, so finally we all settled into a sort of laissez-faire.
At 2:00pm we entered the passage between New Providence Island and Paradise
Island, with Continental Drifter on our stern. Ben showed deep satisfaction at leading
Jimmy’s boat into Nassau Harbor, or so it seemed from the pumping of fists and the
victory chants. The victory was dulled only by the giant sucking sound of fuel being
consumed as Ben proceeded at full throttle.
The entrance to our slip at Hurricane Hole Marina was fearsome. Strong wind
pushed one way, strong current the other. We had been promised a spot on the 200-foot
face dock, but when we arrived they put us inside the very small basin. Ben had to come
through a narrow fairway bordered by two large boats (one had its large tender at its stern
with outboard motors in the up position narrowing the fairway even more. Then he had to
spin it 180 degrees in a basin not much longer that Myeerah. Finally, he had to back in to
a slip only two feet wider than Myeerah. It was all done very nicely, but with much to-ing
and fro-ing. When all was done we were tied up portside, with our exit door on the
starboard side. That led to some discussions about how to get off the boat, but that was
eventually solved.
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Joan and I took a short walk, during which we saw Jimmy’s boat coming to our
spot at the face dock! Then it was back to Myeerah to pack up for tomorrow’s flight to
Boston.
At 6:30pm we were on the aft deck. After dinner we watched The Sopranos.
And so to bed…
Nassau, New Providence Island, the Bahamas to Boston, Massachusetts
1350 nm, 3½ hrs, 386 kts
On deck at 8:30am to a quiet morning at Hurricane Hole Marina. It is Memorial
Day in the U.S., and a holiday in the Bahamas.
Our cab picked us up at 10:45am for the drive to the Million Air FBO at Nassau
International Airport. Our light jet (Lear 35, tail number N28MJ) was a bit late for its
noon departure, but at 12:40pm we were airborne and winging our way to Wilmington,
NC, where we would clear customs. We landed at Wilmington at 2:15pm and taxied to
the customs station, where we were required to leave the plane to check in.
And then the Imp of the Perverse struck. Probably because it was Memorial Day
and we had arrived from abroad, an FAA inspector came to check out our plane. Finding
a small hydraulic leak, he grounded it until a mechanic had given the go-ahead. So, at
3:00pm, we were driven from customs to our FBO, where we waited while our options
were being evaluated.
The mechanic arrived at about 3:30pm and said that the problem would require
more time and resources than were available on a holiday. So we were without a plane.
The good news was that a new plane would be flown down from Rhode Island to pick us
up and take us to Logan. The bad news was that the plane would not arrive until about
6:30pm. So we sat at the FBO for about 3 more hours, reading and eating an early dinner
from Steak-Out.” The new plane (Mitsubishi Diamond, tail number N779DC) arrived at
6:50pm, took on fuel, and we lifted off at 7:15pm.
At 9:15pm we touched down at Logan, and at 10:00pm we were home. A three
hour flight had become almost a ten-hour flight, but all’s well that ends well!
Epilogue
This was our longest trip of the year, and in spite of unsettled weather it was a
great one. The Flatleys and Kellers were delightful guests, fun to have around and very
willing to go with the flow. Their good humor and energy were a real bonus. The second
week of just Joan and me was a real treat. The boat worked well—no major issues. Mark
made a hit with every meal, and—as always—Ben and Amanda kept everything going
with good humor and great competence. I’m very proud of Myeerah.
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As always, midcourse corrections were required (Man plans, God laughs!).
Instead of going to the islands south of Eleuthra, we spent all of our time in the Exumas
except for a day at Royal Island. Still, it was not a bit shabby, and there are some great
memories: the big boat coming sideways into Emerald Bay, the glory of Rolletown, the
serenity of Sampson and Staniel Cays, the vicissitudes of Flamingo Air, the swimming
pigs and the many birds, the snorkeling at the Sea Aquarium off of O’Brien Cay, the
aborted walk to Boo Boo Hill on Wardericke Wells, the beach at Highborne Cay…and
many more.
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Annisquam, MA to Portsmouth, NH
July 8 - 10, 2007
Total Trip
Prologue
This is our first trip of the summer season. We took two weeks in June to go to
London, Normandy, and Paris with Allie, returning on June 23. Then we moved to
Annisquam on June 29, a few days after Rob broke his ankle while bringing things in
from the car on their first night in the cottage. The weather was very unsettled and on
July 5 some vicious thunderstorms passed through, knocking out Comcast service for
several days. This was a late and inauspicious start to the summer.
The Gaillards had invited us to dinner at their home in Cape Neddick, ME. We
decided to take Myeerah to Portsmouth, a few miles south of Cape Neddick and then stay
an extra day. Well, I decided because I was having boat withdrawal pains.
Annisquam to Portsmouth, NH
27 nm, 2½ hrs, 10.8 kts
Ben and Amanda brought Myeerah to Ipswich Bay in the morning (Mark would
drive the Ford Explorer to Portsmouth). At 11:30am Ben met us at the Barnacle’s dock in
T/T Myeerah. By noon we were on board and underway. The sky was leaden and haze
hung in the distance. The water was very calm.
On the way to Portsmouth we read, lunched, napped, and crossword puzzled. At
2:30pm we had arrived at our spot at The Marina at Harbor Place, right on the Piscataqua
River next to the >Route 1 lift bridge. Mark soon arrived with the car, so all was in place.
Joan, Smidgen, and I took a walk along the street fronting Strawberry Bank. Then
I took Smidgen back to the boat while Joan continued to walk. As I sat in the salon I
could see people walking by watching me watch them watching me.
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At 5:45pm we got into the car and started the trip to Cape Neddick. The sky was
dark and rain threatened. The southbound Sunday traffic on Route 1 was backed up or
miles, but northbound was fine. At 6:15pm we arrived at the Gaillard’s home—a
beautiful large “cottage” set right on the water. The views through the large windows
were magnificent. Joe and Carol Donnelly, longtime York residents, were there and soon
John and Betty Pearson arrived. It was a delightful evening with one of Jane’s gourmet
dinners.
At 10:15pm Ben arrived and drove us back to Myeerah.
And so to bed…
Day 2:Monday, July 9, 2007
In Portsmouth, NH
On deck at 9:30am to rain and cold. Soon after, a trio of tall ships passed us as
they went out the river. At 11:30am Jane Gaillard picked Joan up for a trip to the nearby
factory outlet stores in Kittery, ME. I stayed on the boat and read. The rain had stopped
and sun was trying to get through the clouds.
At 1:30pm Charlie arrived and soon Jane and Joan returned. We all went to a
clam shack out near Wentworth-by-the-Sea. Just as we returned to Myeerah, heavy rain
moved into the area. By 4:00pm it had stopped, but the rest or the afternoon was a washout. Time for a power nap.
At 6:00pm Joan and I froze on the aft deck, at my insistence, then at 7:00pm we
had a filet mignon dinner that is among the best we’ve ever had. By 8:30pm we were
reading in our stateroom.
And so to bed…
Portsmouth, NH to Annisquam
27 nm, 2½ hrs, 10.8 kts
On deck at 9:00am after a poor night’s sleep. It was cold and a deep fog was
creeping in. At 10:00am, after a light breakfast, we passed under the Route 1 lift bridge
and began our exit of the Piscataqua River.
The trip to Ipswich Bay was uneventful in spite of the low visibility. We arrived
at 12:30pm, dropped the tender, and Ben took us home.
Epilogue
Short and sweet, with poor weather.
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Annisquam, MA to Isles of Shoals
July 21 - 23, 2007
Total Trip
Prologue
This is a near repeat of the last trip. We go to Portsmouth, NH, then to the Isles of
Shoals on the NH/ME border. The goal is just to enjoy two days together on Myeerah.
Day 1: Saturday, July 21 2007
Annisquam to Portsmouth, NH
27 nm, 2½ hrs, 10.8 kts
At noon Ben met us at the Barnacle and we boarded the tender for Myeerah in
Ipswich Bay. It was sunny and warm, with almost no wind. The Bay was nearly dead
calm.
At 12:30pm we were underway, headed toward Portsmouth. The ride was
uneventful, and at 3:00pm we went under the Memorial lift bridge and docked at Harbor
Place Marina.
After settling in, Joan, Smidgen and I walked into the center of town and did light
shopping: invitation cards for an upcoming cocktail party, and a 5”x7” picture frame for a
photo of John Benning with his Tarpon, to be given to him on August 13 at the cocktail
party we will host on Myeerah, during the Naples Yacht Club Maine Cruise.
By 4:30pm Smidgen and I were back on bard, while Joan walked a bit longer.
When she returned she had a wooden model of an Apache attack helicopter—I had long
wanted a helicopter on the boat, and now I did.
At 6:30pm we went on deck for wine and a great swordfish dinner. Then to our
stateroom to read.
And so to bed…
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Day 2: Sunday, July 23 2007
Portsmouth, NH to the Isles of Shoals
10 nm, 1 hr, 10.0 kts
Awake at a late 9:00am ad on deck by 9:30am. It was warm and sunny. The only
intrusions were the wakes from the numerous boats speeding up and down the Piscataqua
River—there is no speed limit.
At 11:00am, after a light breakfast and reading the New York Times, Joan,
Smidgen, and I took a walk into the town center. I being Sunday morning, the crowds
were gone and it was a pleasant walk. At 11:30am I returned with Smidgen, and about 15
minutes later Joan arrived.
We left the dock and went under the bridge at its noon opening, heading the short
distance to Gosport Harbor in the Isles of Shoals. Arriving at 1:00pm, it took a while to
find a spot to anchor away from a slight ground swell.
At 1:30pm we had lunch on the aft deck and watched the boats going in and out
of the harbor. By 2:30pm the sunny skies were losing to incoming clouds, a prelude to the
front that was forecast to move in tonight. But by 3:15pm the sun had come out again and
Joan and I took a tender tour of the isles, returning at 4:00pm.
At 6:30pm we sat on the aft deck and watched a glorious late afternoon sun shine
on the rocks and the houses. It was very calm, and the harbor had cleared out as people
returned home. After a great lamb chop dinner, we retired to our stateroom to read.
And so to bed…
Day 3: Monday, July 24 2007
The Isles of Shoals to Annisquam
21 nm, 1¾ hrs, 12.0 kts
Awake at a late 9:00am ad on deck by 9:30am. The weather had changed—it was
cloudy and cool after a front had come in; the dead calm of last evening had given way to
a still-low wind. At about 9:30am we lifted anchor and headed for Annisquam.
The ride to Annisquam was uneventful, though the wind had picked up. We
arrived in Ipswich Bay at 11:00am and offloaded in somewhat difficult conditions—it
would have been nice to be able to call the Annisquam Yacht Club launch, but as the only
member without that service it is a no-go.
Epilogue
Again, short and sweet, but with much better weather.
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August 8 – 15, 2007
Second Mate/Chef Mark Fleischer
Don and Diana Wingard
Total Trip
1,980 gallons at 60.0gph
Prologue
This is the second annual cruise to Maine by the Naples Yacht Club. Organized
by John and Carol Benning, as was last year’s cruise, the numbers have increased
significantly: This year there are eight boats and a total of 28 club members, about half
coming by car.
On the afternoon of August 7, Don and Diana Wingard flew from Naples to
Boston and took a car to meet us in Annisquam, arriving at about 5:00pm. Myeerah
arrived at Ipswich Bay at about 3:00pm. I went out to get Ben and Amanda in Drag On,
our 25-foot Pursuit. They came in with me to pick up items left after a recent cocktail
party that they had served. Then they took Drag On back to Myeerah for the night.
It was a bit cool, but we sat on the deck and had our wine, then ate a great seafood
casserole made previously by Mark.
And so to bed…
Day 1: Wednesday, August 5, 2007
Annisquam to Clapboard Island, ME
68 nm, 5½ hours, 12.4 kts
At 6:45am we awakened for an early start. It was drizzling and foggy,
with a raw feeling in the air. At 8:00am Ben arrived in Drag On to pick us up. As we
loaded up, it began to rain heavily. The ride to Myeerah was very wet, but by 8:30am we
were on our way with Drag On on a long tow.
On the trip to Cape Elizabeth we had 4-5 foot seas on our starboard quarter,
giving us lots of opportunity to rock. One of our group became seasick and had a
miserable trip. To boot, there was fog ranging from very deep to moderate. But at
1:30pm, when we rounded Cape Elizabeth and entered the Portland area, the fog lifted
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and the waves moderated. At 2:00pm we reached Clapboard Island, off of Falmouth
Foreside, where we dropped the anchor.
Clapboard Island is owned by two families. One—Al and Dawn Hoffman—
would be our hosts for dinner this evening. Al is a real estate developer who is currently
the Ambassador to Portugal. He was a West Point senior (“Firstie”) when Bill
O’Meara—a NYC member who arranged the evening—was a freshman (“Plebe”). Al and
Dawn, his much younger wife, have a five-year old daughter.
After settling in a bit, I took Joan, Smidgen, and the Wingards in Drag On to the
Falmouth Foreside Marina, where they walked for about 20 minutes. Then we returned to
Myeerah to prepare for the evening. The sun was out, and it was warm and humid.
At 4:30pm Ben drove us to Paquet V, where we picked up John and Carol
Benning and their guests, Eyck and Rose-Marie Van Otterloo, for a very short ride to the
Hoffman’s dock. After a walk up the hill we arrived at the Hoffman’s 1898 house. It was
a magnificent structure--very old beams, restored to original heavy wood ambiance, large
porches looking over water on two sides, seventeen rooms, several outbuildings
(including a boathouse and a generator shed), and lots of land. It had been neglected, then
derelict, for 35 years before they bought it in 1998.
We—about 45 people--had a lovely seated dinner on the lawn. At 7:45pm the
“time to leave” announcement was made, and by 8:00pm we were on our way back to
Myeerah. By 9:00pm we were in our staterooms reading. My current book is Jared
Diamond’s Guns, Germs, and Steel.
And so to bed….
Day 2: Thursday, August 6, 2007
Clapboard Island, ME to Boothbay Harbor ME
35 nm, 3 hours, 11.7 kts
Awake at 9:00am, on deck at 9:30am. During the night a 35-knot wind (gusts to
55 kts) had come up, but we had no problems (except for Ben’s lost sleep). It was sunny,
cool, and dry with a 10-15 knot west wind. All of the boats anchored around us had
departed: Morrisson’s 110-foot La Dolce Vita, Wilson’s 57-ft Illumination, and
Benning’s 40-foot Paquet V. We were left alone.
At 10:30am, after breakfast, we started out toward Boothbay Harbor. It was very
pleasant—a great contrast with yesterday. The ride was gentle as we headed “Down East”
along the islands. For a while we all sat on the bow chatting about neighbors (the
problems posed) and about the Naples Yacht Club renovations currently under way.
After lunch in the pilothouse salon, we arrived at Boothbay Harbor. At 1:30pm
Drag On disconnected from Myeerah and Myeerah docked at Wotton’s Wharf. Soon
after, Don Wingard, Eyck Van Otterloo, and I took Drag On through Townsend’s Gut to
the Sheepscot River, then down the river and back to Boothbay harbor. Eyck’s 28-foot
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Albin, Seaquel, was just arriving as we returned at 3:00pm. Also on the dock were the
Morrison’s La Dolche Vita, the Gaillard’s Rocinante, the Krause’s Lady Patricia, the
Wilson’s Illumination, the O’Meara’s ReJoyce, and the Benning’s Paquet V.
At about 3:30pm we all piled into a bus for a drive to the Coastal Maine Botanical
Gardens on Barters Island. This is Robby Robert’s (a NYC member and Boothbay
Resident) major project. Started in 1996 with 128 acres of land on the Sheepscot River,
the garden has become a gorgeous 248-acre area with miles of road and paths connecting
spots with different flora and beautiful sitting areas (the Meditation Garden, the Fairy
Land Garden, etc). After a tour we had wine and hors d’ouevres on a patio, then an
appeal for donations. It was a lovely evening.
By 8:30am we had returned to Myeerah.
And so to bed…
Day 3: Friday, August 10, 2007
Boothbay Harbor, ME to Wiscasset, ME
21 nm, 2 hours, 10.5 kts
Awake at 8:00am and on deck by 8:30am to a cloudy, but not threatening, sky and
to cool temperatures. We spent a leisurely time having breakfast and visiting each other’s
boats on Wotton’s Wharf.
At 11:00am Myeerah left the dock bound for Wiscasset, at the western end of the
Sheepscot River. At 1:00pm, just after lunch, we arrived and, after disconnecting Drag
On, Don and I took Drag On down the Back River for a few miles. Then we returned to
Myeerah, which had anchored across the river from the town. Anchored nearby were La
Dolche Vita, ReJoyce, and Illumination; Seaquel was at the Sheepscot River Inn’s dock
on our side of the river. At the town dock were Rocinante, Lady Patricia, and Paquet V.
I took the Wingards, Joan, and Smidgen to the town dock so that they could walk
around the town poking into antique shops and art galleries. Then I returned to Myeerah
to read. At about 3:00pm Ben went to pick them up. John Benning saw them and asked
Ben to take Drag On to help Janus, a sailboat with the Gills on board that had run up on
rocks about a mile down the river, where there is a sharp jog around rocks. Apparently,
the boat zigged when it should have zagged! Ben returned to report that the boat was high
and dry on the rocks. But since it had hit at low tide and low speed, it should refloat.
Another “Adventure in Boating.”
At 4:45pm Ben took us to the Town Landing, where the Town Fathers and
Mothers welcomed us. Apparently, Wiscasset is not on the typical yacht club map. The
Naples Yacht Club was given a Selectmans’ resolution creating a Naples Yacht Club Day
on August 10, 2007. Of course, the local power plant was being converted to
condominiums with a 230 slip marina—any agenda there?
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At 6:30pm Ben took us to the Sheepscot River Inn’s dock for a lovely—and very
good—dinner engineered by the Bennings. The Janus crew soon arrived--we all were
happy that no serious damage had occurred that spontaneous applause broke out! The
food was superb, the company was wonderful, and it was a great evening. At 9:30pm we
wobbled back along the long dock where Ben was waiting in Drag On. We had a quick
ride back to the boat. And so to bed…
Day 4: Saturday, August 11, 2007
In Wiscasset, ME
Awake at 8:00am and on deck by 8:30am. Finally it was sunny and warm. Ben
was just diving to remove a clump of seagrass that was blocking the raw water intake for
the main generator—there is a lot of flotsam in this river.
Today the plan is to take the commuter train to Rockland, a 1½-hour trip. In
Rockland there is the Maine Boat Show, a museum, and several other things to do. The
train will return to Wiscasset at 3:30pm. Then at 6:30pm we will gather on La Dolche
Vita for a cocktail party.
I decided not to go on the day trip—there has been a fair amount of troop
movement on this trip, and this trooper is taking the day off! I plan to read, do some
work, and take Drag On further up the river. Don also decided to forego the trip to
Rockland.
At 11:00am Ben took us to the Town Dock to see the ladies off to get on the train.
Then Don, Smidgen, and I took a walk in Wiscasset. We spent some time at an antique
store talking to a gentleman who does giltwork—an interesting craft. Then at 12:15pm
we went to the dock to wait for Ben. During our wait we talked to a young couple who
were off to an island for an overnight camp. He was a lobsterman with 600 traps. They
were remarkably nice to us foreigners!
At 12:30pm Don and I were on Myeerah having lunch. Then, at 1:30pm, Don,
Ben, and I took Drag On for a 25 mile jaunt to Bath, Maine. We went down the Back
River, then up through Hell’s Gate to Bath. Then we turned around and came down to
Robin Hood Cove and over to the Sheepscot River for our return. Hell’s Gate was wide
and quiet—a great contrast to the passage through it on the Fleming, when Mark
Casasanta had to give the Good Fortune2 full power to climb a virtual waterfall of
current.
But downstream from Hell’s Gate there were major rips of current. After reaching
Robin Hood Cove and crossing to the Sheepscot River, we found that it was suddenly
very cold because of the wind off the ocean. But by the time we had returned to
Wiscasset, at 2:45pm, it had warmed up. After boarding Myeerah I went down to read
and nap, while Don stayed on the aft deck to read.
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At 5:15pm the ladies returned from their adventure, reporting that it was a great
experience! I know BS when I step in it!! Apparently, there was not much at the end of
the long trip on a dirty train! Don and I had made the right decision.
At 6:30pm Ben and Amanda started ferrying people from the town dock to La
Dolche Vita for the cocktail party. On their second trip they came by to pick us up, and
we joined the party. We stayed for about 45 minutes, during which I had a nice chat with
Glen, the Australian captain. The boat is a 109-foot Hargrave with incredible interior
space—a large salon on the weather deck, with a galley forward, and a large salon on the
third deck with bar and sitting area behind a well-equipped pilothouse. It was designed as
a charter boat—flashy décor (but very nicely done), a crew of six, and with plenty of
interior and exterior space.
At 7:45pm we and the Wingards returned to Myeerah just as the sun set over
Wiscasset. We had a lovely dinner in the aft cockpit, with plenty of good conversation
about life and the future. They are very down-to-earth nice people! At 10:30pm we
retired to our rooms. And so to bed…
Day 5: Sunday, August 12, 2007
Wiscasset, ME to Pulpit Harbor, ME
61 nm, 5¼ hrs, 11.6 kts
Awake at 8:00am and soon on deck. There was no wind, and the sun shone. We
had breakfast and then we prepared to go to Wiscasset’s town dock so Smidgen could
walk. But we heard a call for help from a disabled boat just off of the Sheepscot River
Inn dock, on our side of the river. So Joan, Don, Ben, Smidgen and I went to investigate
in Drag On.
When we arrived the disabled boat was under tow by Seaquel, so all was well. We
stopped at the Sheepscot River Inn dock and Joan took Smidgen for her walk. On
returning, we were accosted by a very bellicose man who roared that we had no right to
come on the property to walk our dog, and that--to boot--Smidgen had pooped and we
had just left it (true—one teaspoonful, but our bad!). He wanted to know what boat we
were on so he could be sure that we never returned. It was quite a display of over-the-top
anger. What a stupid way to develop a clientele at the Grand Opening! He kept
bellowing, and finally I asked if we could leave. I assured him that we would not return,
and we went on our way.
At 9:45am Myeerah left Wiscasset with Drag On under a long tow. Our
destination was Pulpit Harbor on North Haven Island, on the east side of Penobscot Bay.
The water was quiet and we had an easy trip, arriving at 3:00pm. There was room in
Pulpit Harbor, so we dropped anchor.
The Wingards, Joan and Smidgen took Drag On to the town dock, along with
Mark, who got a ride into North Haven for some provisions. At 6:00pm we gathered on
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the sun deck, huddling against the wind, and at 7:30pm went to the dining room for a
great salmon dinner.
And so to bed…
Day 6: Monday, August 13, 2007
Pulpit Harbor, ME to Seal Bay, ME
12 nm, 1¼ hrs, 9.6 kts
Awake at 7:30am and on deck by 8:00am. It was overcast and there had been an
overnight rain. This morning bags of ice would be delivered to us at the town dock for a
cocktail party and dinner tonight Then we would depart for Seal Bay on Vinylhaven
sland.
At 9:15am Drag On returned with 20 bags of ice, and at 9:45am we left Pulpit
Harbor for the short trip to Seal Bay. Arriving at 10:30am, we dropped the anchor in 45
feet of water—the first NYC cruising boat to arrive. The weather was worsening, and at
12:30pm, just as we sat down to lunch, a heavy rain moved in. Fortunately, it didn’t last
long; the sky began to clear, and it warmed up.
At 2:00pm Smidgen, the Wingards, and the Fortunes took Drag On for a tour of
the area. During the tour all the other boats arrived—Janus, Rocinante, Illumination,
Seaquel, Paquet V, Lady Patricia, and ReJoyce. We saw seals on a nearby ledge, and we
journeyed out to Winter Harbor, just outside of Seal Bay. We docked briefly at a deserted
property—a garage, with a hint of a house over a hill, and Smidgen was taken by Don
and Joan for a walk. Fortunately, there was no incident like the Wiscasset Rage.
By the time we returned to Myeerah, at 3:00pm, the sun was out and it was
warming up. But, unfortunately, this brought out the greenhead flies. At 6:00pm Don and
I boarded Drag On to start the taxi service to get folks on other boats to Myeerah for
cocktails and dinner. There were a total of 22 people, 18 on other boats, requiring two
trips. It was beginning to rain again, but soon it stopped. John Benning had brought his
“Sunset Canon” to use at 7:43pm. John, Ben, and I warned the party about what would
happen at 7:43pm, then we took it to the boat deck and blew it off; the result was a
deafening roar and black powder all over the place!
We all had a wonderful time enjoying each other and Mark’s food. John and
Carol Benning were given gifts to thank them for their hard work putting the trip
together: John got a framed photo of his 150 pound Tarpon, Carol got bath soaps, and the
two together got an antique telescope. At 9:00pm the return trips began and at 10:00pm
we had retired.
And so to bed…
Day 7: Tuesday, August 14, 2007
Seal Bay, ME to Castine, NE
540
42 nm, 3½ hrs, 12.0 kts
Awake at—can you believe it—9:30am. On deck at 10:00am, it was sunny, cool,
and windy. All the other NYC boats had left. We had breakfast, and at 10:30am Myeerah
left Seal Bay. We would cross to the east side of Penobscot Bay, head up to Eggemoggin
Reach, pass through the Reach, and head north to Castine.
On the way across Penobscot Bay, Ben looked back and saw that Drag On had
become disconnected; one end of the bridle had not been properly cleated off.
Fortunately, it had just happened, so Drag On was not far behind us. We turned around,
picked up the tow line, reattached it properly, and continued on our way. That was Easy!
After entering the islands area around Swan’s Island, we turned north toward
Eggemoggin Reach, then we went through the Reach—passing the Brooklin Wooden
Boat Yard and Bucks Harbor—then north to Castine. The weather had warmed up a bit,
and we were in easy water.
We arrived at Castine at 2:00pm, but we had to delay entering Smith Cove
because of a sailboat race in the cove (the Maine State 420 Championship). By 3:00pm
we were anchored deep into the cove. Ben dove to remove a lobster buoy that had
snagged on our port stabilizer fin. Then we, the Wingards, and Smidgen took Drag On to
the town dock, along with all of last night’s garbage and trash. After disposing of about
15 bags ($1 per bag), we walked into town.
None of our cell phones were working, so we found a pay phone to call the
Curtins, who would join us on Myeerah for dinner. Jack’s voicemail picked up with the
message “If it starts to rain or the sun goes down, we might call you back.” I left our
message, then we walked down Perkins Street—where the Curtins live--for some
distance. Smidgen made two deposits, and she was so happy to get a long walk that she
smiled. Diana and I returned to Drag On while Joan and Don walked further.
At 4:30pm we were all back on Myeerah. At 6:00pm Ben and Amanda took Drag
On to pick up the Curtins at the town dock; they had returned by 6:30pm. We had drinks
and appetizers on the aft cockpit, then at about 7:45pm we went inside for a lovely dinner
of scallops and rice, seasoned to perfection.
At 9:30pm Ben and Amanda returned the Curtins to the town dock, taking
Smidgen for a quick walk. By 10:30pm they, and Smidgen, were back on board.
And so to bed…
Castine, ME to Portland, ME
84 nm, 7 hrs, 12.0 kts
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Awake at 7:00am, on deck at 7:30am for an early departure. It was overcast and
very cool, with a forecast of a 15-20 knot northwest wind. At 8:00am we passed Castine
headed for Portland. The sun broke through the clouds and the sea was fairly calm as we
proceeded down Penobscot Bay. The wind was—forget the forecasts--from the
southwest, so we had it on our port beam after exiting the Bay.
Once we had exited the Bay and turned west, the seas built to 4-5 feet on our port
bow, so it felt pretty lumpy. At about 12:30pm we sat down for lunch; we were just a bit
short of Seguin Island, which marks about 25 miles to go.
As we approached Portland, the sea lay down a bit and it became more
comfortable. We arrived at the outer entrance at 3:00pm, then we disconnected Drag On
and went to DiMillo’s docks. The sky had cleared up, though there was a light overcast.
But in Portland it was warm, and the skies cleared even more. Near us were Big Zip and
Island Voyager, large 1970s-era Burger-like yachts, and Mamu VI, an expedition yacht
about 100 feet long.
At 3:30pm we all took a walk. Smidgen did a pee, but no poop. I returned to the
boat while Joan, Smidgen, Don, and Diana shopped. They returned to Myeerah at
5:30pm. Joan and Don soon left for a power walk, returning at 6:30pm. I was charged
with keeping an eye on Smidgen, but I wasn’t told which eye!
At about 7:15pm we gathered on the aft deck and had cocktails and hors d’ouvres,
followed by a great dinner of lamb chops. This was Diana’s 66 th birthday, which was
celebrated by a candle on her lemon tart. By 9:30pm we were in our staterooms.
And so to bed…
68 nm, 5¼ hrs, 13.0 kts
Awake at 7:30am to a windless morning with light fog. At 8:00pm The Cat--the
huge fast ferry to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia—left Portland. At 9:00am we disconnected
Drag On and Myeerah left the dock. It was so calm in the harbor that we quickly
reconnected and started on our way. At 9:15pm we were exiting the harbor.
After about an hour we stopped to try to unwind a lobster pot line that had been
picked up in the harbor. We couldn’t dislodge it so we had to slow down to about 9 kts.
Soon, Ben decided to put his dive gear down and cut the line away. It was almost
windless, but there was a small ground swell. I worried about the hull coming down on
him, or getting caught up in the line. But he had no problem and quickly cut away a long
ball of polyester line on the port prop.
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The remainder of the trip was uneventful. We arrived off of the mouth of the
Annisquam River at 2:30pm, quickly loaded onto Drag On, and were at the dock by
3:00pm.
Epilogue
This was a great trip. We enjoyed the Wingards immensely—they were perfect
guests and companions. The weather was good (for Maine) and the events and venues
arranged by the Bennings were great fun—they did a super job. With the exception of the
bellowing jerk in Wiscasset, there was not a bad moment.
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Up the Hudson River: Manhattan to Albany
August 28 – September 3, 2007
Second Mate/Chef Mark Fleischer
John and Mary Jane McGlennon
Caroline Stride
Total Trip
630 gallons at 45.0gph
Prologue
This is the fourth annual Labor Day getaway for the same group. The only nonreturnee is Jack Bullard, who moved from nearby Newport, RI to Philadelphia, PA. Last
year he arrived on the boat with a flu which he passed on to others, so he is persona non
grate this year.
In previous years we had started in Newport and cruised the Connecticut and
Long Island area. This year is different. We started in Jersey City, NJ (Ugh! Yuck!) and
went 140 nm up the Hudson to Albany.
At 9:30am our small Piper Navaho (N9278Y) left Hanscom Field in Bedford, MA
and took us to Teeterboro Airport in New Jersey. The ride was fine, and we had landed
and unfolded ourselves by 11:00pm.
We climbed into two cabs (the McGlennons and Caroline in one, the Fortunes in
the second) and began a wild New Jersey taxi ride to the Newport Yacht Club & Marina
in Jersey City, just across from lower Manhattan. The marina is right next to a major mall
and adjacent to the PATH station for ferries to Manhattan. The crew reported that it was a
very nice spot, and that wakes from the river traffic were not a problem.
At 11:30am we left the marina and headed south for a short ride to see Ellis Island
and the Statue of Liberty. At 12:30pm we turned northward and started on our trip to
Upper Nyack, just past the Tappan Zee Bridge.
Staten Island, NY to Upper Nyack, NY
30 nm, 2½ hrs, 12.0 kts
The initially sunny sky had given way to building clouds by 12:30pm, when we
left the Statue of Liberty. As we proceeded northward the sun returned. On the starboard
side we saw the busy Manhattan waterfront, with its numerous municipal piers, the
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northern tip of Manhattan, and Yonkers. On the port side we reached the Palisades—high
undeveloped cliffs on the New Jersey side.
Lunch was served at 1:00pm, as we passed under the George Washington Bridge.
John told us the tale of an alien abduction 20 or 30 years ago, when a woman was seen by
many people on the GW bridge as she was drawn up a ray of light to a waiting
mothership. Apparently, this woman had been abducted many times, and was so desirable
to aliens that they overcame their natural shyness and abducted her in plain sight of
numerous observers. She was gone for about two hours; regrettably, nobody saw her
return.
At 3:00pm we passed Tarrytown and Sleepy Hollow (the former North
Tarrytown) and went under the Tappan Zee Bridge. Just beyond, on the New York side,
was our destination—the Julius Petersen Marina. If Upper Nyack is the Gem of the
Hudson (as it is called), the Petersen Marina is its rhinestone. It is a falling-down, junkstrewn, ugly little spot on the Hudson. A builder of sub-chasers and sea rescue vessels in
WWII, it has fallen on hard times.
At about 3:45pm we all started on the one-mile walk to the town of Lower Nyack.
It was very warm! The walk started with a steep uphill trudge to Broadway Street, then a
flat walk into a not-very-attractive town center. But along the way were many wonderful
Victorian homes, with turrets, fretwork, bay windows—the whole nine yards. Many were
in some state of restoration, a few had been restored.
After seeing the town center we returned to the boat, arriving at 4:45pm. The air
conditioning had failed while we were gone, and Ben was waiting for a return call from
Matthews Marine. We sat out on the aft deck and chatted.
At 6:15pm we gathered on the sun deck for drinks and sunset, and by 7:00pm we
had moved to the aft deck for a great salmon dinner. After dinner, John and I watched the
Red Sox lose to the Yankees (putting the Sox only seven games ahead).
And so to bed…
Upper Nyack, NY to Haverstraw Bay, NY
10 nm, 1 hrs, 10.0 kts
Awake at 8:00am sharp, on deck by 8:15am. It was sunny and warm. After
breakfast, a Nyack Taxi minivan came to pick us up. At 10:00am we were on board the
taxi with our driver, Robinson, a young man from the Dominican Republic who is
studying for a criminal justice degree. He was very nice and wanted to be helpful, but
knew little about touring the area. We headed for the Tappan Zee Bridge and went over
the Hudson to Tarrytown. Our goal was the a tour of Kykuit (“Kai-Cut”), the Rockefeller
estate in Sleepy Hollow. Kykuit is Dutch for “High Place,” and its view over the Hudson
from several miles away is exquisite.
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After some confusion we found our way to Phillipsburg Manor, the jumping off
point for tours to Kykuit and several other sights (Washington Irving’s Sunnyside,
Lyndhurst, and the Union Church of Pocantico Hills. We arrived at 10:45am and bought
tickets for the 11:45pm tour of Kykuit.
With an hour to kill, we decided to visit Phillipsburg Manor. This was a working
farm with an old (now restored) house and garden. To reach it, one walked over a long
wooden bridge crossing Mill Pond. On the other side were a grist mill, a restored twostory house used for several purposes: warehouse, distribution point for internationally
traded goods, and occasional residence of the Phillips family, who rarely visited. Tour
guides were dressed in period (18th century) costume. We got a quick tour of the house
from a retired high school history teacher, then we crossed back over the bridge to meet
the shuttle bus.
Our tour guide was a high-energy woman with extensive knowledge of Kykuit’s
history, architecture, and art. The huge (4000-acre) estate was bought in the late 1890’s
by John D. Rockefeller (JDR). Several family houses and a nine-hole golf course were
built on it. In 1906 JDR started construction of a large “cottage,” into which he and his
wife moved in 1908. The cottage was built in (for that time) an unassuming style—JDR
was a confirmed Baptist and didn’t like ostentation. The house was found wanting in
design: JDR’s bedroom was over the kitchen and servants’ entrance, impeding his search
for peace and quiet, and the second floor had guest rooms with slanted ceilings, a feature
not liked by JDR’s wife, who believed it insulted guests to be put into attic-like rooms.
JDR’s adult son, John D. Rockefeller Jr. (Junior) oversaw a major renovation
under the proviso that the first floor not be changed. Junior changed the entire façade,
giving the cottage a more impressive square appearance. He rebuilt the top two floors,
and he created an underground tunnel for the servants’ entrance. Junior occupied Kykuit
after JDR’s death, then Junior’s son, Nelson Rockefeller, took it over in 1962 after
Junior’s death in 1960. It was Nelson’s principal residence during his four terms as New
York’s governor and his time as Gerald Ford’s vice president. Nelson was a modern art
collector and he located statuary around the house and grounds as well as creating a
major art collection.
The tour of Kykuit’s first floor and gardens, followed by a tour of the Coach Barn
(with its collection of old coaches and cars), took two hours. It was very impressive, not
because of Newport glitz but because the house showed such care and feeding by a
family that loved it; it had personality.
At 2:00pm we were back at Phillipsburg Manor. Our taxi took us to lunch at
Sunset Cove, a waterfront restaurant between two Tarrytown marinas (one was the
Washington Irving Boat Yard). It was an excellent lunch, after which our driver took us
back toward Kykuit so we could visit the nearby Union Church at Pocantico Hills. This
church was a Spartan nondenominational structure until Baron Collier, who wintered
nearby, joined with JDR to built a new stone church with stained glass windows designed
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by Henri Matisse and Marc Chagall. The church building is simple but beautiful, and the
windows are wonderful.
Then we started back to the boat, arriving at 4:00pm. Robinson, our driver, was
paid, and by 4:15pm Myeerah took off for the next stop. That was supposed to be
Haverstraw Marina, about 8 nm north, but we decided to drop the hook instead when the
marina told us that it closed at 5:00pm. Beginning at 5:15pm we sat on engines for a
while until a second marina told us that the spring tide would give too little water to come
in. By 5:45pm we had dropped the hook off of Croton Point Park, near Croton-onHudson, NY.
At 6:30pm we met on the sundeck. The sun was dropping, and we enjoyed the
sunset while we talked about Iraq, politics, and life. At 7:30pm we went to the aft deck
for dinner: mashed potatoes and lamb shank, with peaches and ice cream for desert. At
9:00pm we started to watch the Red Sox-Yankees game. It was Sox 1 and Yankees 3 for
quite a while, so everyone but me gave up and went below. But at the top of the eighth
inning the Sox got two runs, bringing the game to Sox 3, NY 4. But there it stayed—two
losses in a three game sequence!
At 10:30pm it was all over. And so to bed…
Haverstraw Bay, NY to Poughkeepsie, NY
36nm, 3 hrs, 12.0 kts
Awake at 8:45am and on deck by 9:15am. Sunny skies, warm and humid. We had
breakfast, and at 10:30am we departed for Poughkeepsie. The river was gorgeous, with
high hills on each side and very little sign of habitation. Freight trains and passenger
trains zipped by on each bank. Several power plants, including the Indian Point nuclear
plant, lined the shore. We passed a number of interesting structures, including some old
castle-type buildings looking down from high places.
We went under Bear Mountain Bridge, passing a long barge as we did, then we
reached West Point, after which we passed Storm King Mountain, marking the end of the
Highlands: The steep granite cliffs gave way to lower hills. At 12:00pm we passed
Pollepel Island, also called Bannerman’s Island. Here Francis Bannerman built a large
Scottish castle and munitions arsenal in 1900. In 1918 it burned down and several efforts
to renovate and rejuvenate it have failed.; it is now in ruins.
At 12:15pm we passed the town of Newburgh, with its reconditioned waterfront
showing large university-like buildings with restaurants and shops. In Newburgh we went
by a large Coast Guard ship at anchor and, as we passed under the tin Newburgh-Beacon
Bridges, we were stopped by an orange USCG inflatable with five men on it. Three of
them boarded Myeerah for a paperwork-safety-drugs-weapons inspection (our first).
They were very polite and business-like, and were motivated (I think) by their boredom
and their desire to see Myeerah. At 12:45pm they left and we continued on our way.
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At 2:00pm we reached our destination—the Hyde Park Marina on the west side of
the river in Poughkeepsie. It was very warm and humid, and we were unsure about seeing
the housing sights until next morning. The Hyde Park Marina is a very under-maintained
blight on the waterfront, located between the river and the railroad tracks. The face dock,
where we were located, is a bird-crap covered wooden eyesore. It had suffered a fire a
year ago, burning down its restaurant. The dockmaster sat in his car all day watching the
bird-crap build up!
We all stayed on board for the afternoon—it was too hot and humid to wander
around. Ben picked up a Ford Expedition from Enterprise for our tour tomorrow. At
5:30pm, after a nice nap, I went on deck to prepare for the evening. At 6:30pm we met on
the sun deck for drinks and an appetizer dubbed “bulls balls,” which, as you can imagine,
was not very popular.
At 7:33pm we went to the swim platform and shot our new sunset cannon. It gave
off a deafening roar, and a huge flash of light. After this we had dinner and watched as a
front came through, bringing high wind and lightning in the distance. It was very Hudson
River—shades of Ichabod Crane.
And so to bed…
Poughkeepsie, NY to Kingston, NY
14nm, 1¼ hrs, 11.2 kts
Awake at 8:00am to learn that I had been a bad bed partner, occupying more than
my share of the space. I got no credit for letting the dog barf on me in the middle of the
night! Life is so unfair!!!
On deck by 8:30am to cooler temperatures and cloudy skies. At 10:00am we left
for a day touring the area. Our first stop was the FDR estate at Hyde Park, NY: The house
is called Springwood. We took a tour of Springwood, where FDR was born and lived
much of his life. It was in a state of decay, needing lots of paint and carpentry. The
grounds were very pretty—it had been a working farm before FDR’s death. Springwood
was a very unassuming home—large, but not at all ostentatious.
Our next stop was The Culinary Institute of America (CIA), where we had lunch
in one of its five restaurants. The CIA was quite a surprise. It has a huge campus, with
very large and impeccably maintained brick buildings. The CIA has a two-year
Associates degree in culinary arts, and a Bachelors degree in management. The food was
good to very good, and the student wait staff was very attentive.
After lunch we went to the Vanderbilt Mansion, once called ”Hyde Park,” a few
miles up the road from the FDR estate. This was built in 1898 by Frederick William
Vanderbilt, a third generation Vanderbilt who died in 1938. Frederick was the only male
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in his generation to increase his wealth; he did this by expanding the New York Central
Railroad, which he had inherited from his father.
The house has 54 rooms covering 50,000 square feet. It has six floors—two living
floors, two basements, and two servants’ floors. The central feature is a large oval entry
hall from which rooms radiate. The second floor follows the same design, with a smaller
central opening looking down to the first floor hall, surrounded by a balustrade. For an
ornate mansion, it had a very livable design. The property was built for $2.5 million and
was inherited by Frederick’s niece, who tried to sell it for $250,000 but couldn’t find a
buyer. She went down the road to ask FDR’s advice. The result was that she gave it to the
federal government, receiving a tax deduction worth more than her asking price.
The next stop was Myeerah, which we reached at 3:30pm. Ben returned our Ford
Expedition, during which time a large group of young studs appeared at the parking lot
and began to undress. Amanda had the binoculars and would not give them up. But the
ladies found another pair, soon there were eight female eyes peeled. It turned out that it
was a training exercise for water rescue personnel; they all donned life vests and paddled
off downriver.
At 4:15pm we left the dismal Hyde Park Marina and headed north to Kingston.
We passed many large estate houses, including the Vanderbilt mansion and another even
larger. At 5:15 we reached Rondout Creek, the entrance to our destination. Kingston is
the first town we’ve seen where boaters are visibly present. The entrance to Rondout
Creek, marked by an old lighthouse, is narrow and bordered by rocky jetties and
marshes;. The waterfront is lined with boats, docks, and restaurants. As we idled down
the creek, the sunlight reflected beautifully off of the boats and buildings.
By 5:30pm we were docked at the Hudson River Maritime Museum. Myeerah
was greeted by the museum director and staff members as she docked next to the
Mathilda, a large Hudson River tugboat that was on display next to the museum. The
museum has two maritime themes: river transportation (tugboats, etc.) and iceboats (one
of the local iceboats was clocked at over 100mph). They have rebuilt their docks in the
hope of attracting larger boats, and we were among the first. Pete Seeger’s yacht,
Clearwater is scheduled to arrive tomorrow, as are several boats on a lighthouse cruise.
We had to visit the museum this afternoon because we must leave the dock by 1:00pm
tomorrow and the museum doesn’t open until noon.
Learning of the need for speed, John exercised leadership by identifying himself
as Myeerah’s owner and chatting vigorously with the museum people as they escorted
him and Mary Jane on the tour. I stayed behind—the museum’s WiFi was the first
internet connection I had seen in days—while Joan and Caroline took Smidgen for a
walk.
A 38-foot SeaRay from Brooklyn, the Fuhgeddaboudit, came in to dock at or
stern. It had two nifty blonds and two identical-looking Soprano capo types on board. As
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soon as it hooked up to shore power the entire dock lost electricity. So we switched to
generators, as did the SeaRay. That was it for power on all the other boats.
At 6:45pm we gathered on the aft deck, foregoing the sundeck because we were
under an auto bridge. It was a lovely evening, with sun glinting off the water and boats
idling by. We had an absolutely superb fillet dinner (dry aged prime beef). At 9:00pm we
retired to the salon to watch a retrospective on Princess Diana, whose very tragic death
was exactly ten years ago. By 9:30pm I had given up, but John and the ladies finished the
show. There wasn’t a dry eye in the house!
And so to bed…
Kingston, NY to Catskill, NY
21 nm, 2¾ hrs, 9.3 kts
Awakened at 6:00am by Smidgen’s barking, and kept awake by sonorous
rumbling from the other side of the bed, I was out of bed by 7:30am and on deck by
8:00am. It was sunny and very cool, with a brisk wind.
We must be off the dock by 1:00pm, and can’t get into the Catskill Marina until
4:00pm, so we will idle up the river for 21 miles. At about 10:00am we all walked into
the small historic waterfront district of Kingston. Boats lined the north side of Rondout
Creek for quite a distance, and the old buildings on the waterfront have been lovingly
renovated and turned into shops and restaurants.
Kingston was the first capital of New York, but not for long: The government
located there in 1776, but in 1777 the British burned the town and the government moved
to Albany. There are three sections to Kingston: Downtown (the waterfront), Midtown,
and Uptown (the affluent historic district). Unfortunately, it is too far to walk to Uptown,
and the trolley didn’t start until noon. So we couldn’t visit Uptown. John and I wandered
along Rondout Creek looking at boats and people, then we walked around the small
Downtown shopping area, ending up in an antique shop where we found the ladies. I
bought Joan a wall hanging: a painted plate of a scene from Carousel with Shirley Jones
and Gordon McCrae sitting on a bench. It was so tacky I couldn’t resist. It will be perfect
in the Annisquam cottage.
By noon we were all back on Myeerah, and at 12:45pm she left the dock, pivoted,
and headed toward the Hudson River. A brisk wind was coming down the river, kicking
up whitecaps. As we exited Rondout Creek we saw Clearwater, Pete Seeger’s very large
sloop, holding position in the river.
On the way up the Hudson there were a number of large houses, including some
in the “stately home” category. At 2:00pm we reached the Esopus Creek lighthouse—
now a B&B--and took a short side trip down the creek. There was a large marina area, at
which we turned around and headed back to the Hudson.
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At 3:30pm we arrived at Catskill, NY and slowly followed Catskill Creek to the
Catskill Marina. The entire world seemed to be watching as we passed lots of oats tied up
on the north side. We docked at the fuel dock, next to the swimming pool. Catskill
Marina is very basic, but it has better amenities than any place we had been. It even had
functioning 100A power!
At 5:30pm, after walks, we got in the tender and went to a wildlife sanctuary
about a mile south. It was a gorgeous creek meandering back through marshes and trees
for about a mile. At 6:15pm we were back at Myeerah, and at 6:45pm we gathered on the
sun deck. Boats arrived for the evening, many saluting us, and at 7:30pm we went to the
aft deck for dinner. We had a great meal, and at 9:15pm we watched fireworks over
Catskill, NY. Then some of us watched the Red Sox-Orioles game, which the Sox won
10-0 with a no-hitter pitched by a rookie!
And so to bed…
Day 6: Sunday, September 2, 2007
Catskill, NY to Albany, NY
30 nm, 3½ hrs, 8.6 kts
A late start—on deck at 9:15am. The sky was clear and bright, the temperature
was cool but pleasant. At about 10:00am we sat down to Eggs Benedict—our first blowout breakfast. At 10:45am we started on a walk into the town of Catskill, seat of Greene
County. It is a poor town with an old-time charm. There are papier-mâché cats around the
town center, each available at an upcoming auction.
Our walk was cut short when Ben called to say that he thought we should leave
soon—the tide was going out and the entrance to Catskill Creek was getting low. So at
11:15am we were back on Myeerah, and at 11:30am we left the Catskill Marina. Once
again, everyone turned out for the show!
The trip upriver was gentle—yesterday’s wind was gone, and it was sunny and
warm. The speed was slow because we were now in boating territory. The upper Hudson
has lots of islands and heavily vegetated low shores. It is active with campers, boaters,
kayakers, and canoers--especially this Labor Day weekend. We had several large barges
go past, and as we passed under a bridge a 50-foot Carver named Moroni blew by about
ten feet away, leaving a huge wake. Later we learned that Moroni had waked a boat
carrying a lady in a wheelchair—she fell out of the chair and lost her cane overboard.
As we approached Albany the shoreline turned into heavy commercial use—steel
scrap, gravel, wood chips, oil storage and so forth. At 3:15pm we arrived at the Albany
Yacht Club, which is actually across the river in Rennsalear. NY. Joan and Smidgen took
a walk; I prepared for a nap, but instead spent my time doing the Sunday New York Times
crossword puzzle.
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At 6:30pm we gathered on the sun deck. Soon after, Maroner, a 50-foot
Neptunus, arrived. She was the boat that had waked the crippled woman earlier in the
day. After an hour she left, and we went down to dinner. It was a great pork dinner with
ginger bread for desert. At 9:30pm we were finished.
And so to bed…
Day 7: Monday, September 3, 2007
Albany, NY to Bedford, MA
30 nm, 3 hrs
On deck at 8:15am. The sky was clear and bright, the temperature cool. Today is
Labor Day, so there won’t be much to do until our 3:00pm flight to Hanscom Field.
Well, there was more to do than I thought. After breakfast Mary Jane took a bad
step going down the stars and fell. She hit her head, knee and shoulder, and was in a great
deal of pain. Ed, the dockmaster, called for an ambiance and three fire truck, the
ambulance, and two police cars arrived quickly. Eventually, MJ was able to hobble up the
steps (thank God!) and off the boat, where she was put onto a stretcher and taken to
Albany Medical Center. We followed in a rented car, and waited in the emergency room
waiting room for news.
While X-rays had not been taken yet, the guess was that she had a fractured collar
bone. There appeared to be no concussion, and no damage to hips or knees. John and MJ
wanted us to go back to the boat and depart as scheduled. They would have Ben drive
them to Gloucester either tonight or tomorrow.
After a couple of hours I called John and we made a plan: He and MJ would come
to the boat for the night, and tomorrow Ben would drive them to Gloucester. Caroline,
Joan, and I would return to Boston as planned. So at 2:00pm Ben drove us to the Million
Air FBO at Albany International Airport, where our Piper Navaho Chieftain (Tail
Number N555GT) was waiting. At 3:15pm we lifted off, and at 4:00pm we were at the
Jet aviation FBO at Hanscom. The flight was rougher than the flight to Teeterboro
Airport, but not bad.
By 4:30pm Joan and I were home, and Caroline was on her way to Gloucester in
the McGlennon’s car.
Epilogue
This was an excellent trip, except for the unfortunate accident on the last day. The
Hudson was beautiful, the estates visited—and some of the towns—were exquisite, the
weather was good, and the companionship was great.
At last report, a week after the event, Mary Jane was doing much better. She had
not broken a collar bone, but instead had a separated shoulder—one of the three bones in
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the shoulder had pulled out. This injury is rated on a 1-5 scale: 1-2 means no surgery, 4-5
means surgery, and 3—which she had—is likely to heal on its own, but might require
surgery. Her shoulder seems to be healing on its own.
The next trip will be from Albany back to Manhattan. That should also be fun,
and perhaps we will find some new places to see.
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Down the Hudson River: Albany to Tarrytown
September 20 - 25, 2008
First Mate Amanda Wentworth
Chef Mark Fleischer
Richard Kopcke
Wes Marple
John McGlennon
Total Trip
106 miles, 9¾ hours running time, 10.9 kts average speed
Prologue
This guy-trip is the last trip of the northern season. Once we get off, Myeerah
heads to Ft. Lauderdale for her semi-annual yard work. The guests were all very good
friends who had been on previous trips.
Day 1: Thursday, September 20
Bedford, MA to Catskill, NY
At 10:30am our Piper Chieftain (N555GT) left Hanscom Field in Bedford, MA
and took us to Albany International Airport, where we landed at 11:30am. Ben met us
and drove us to Myeerah, which had stayed at the Albany Yacht Club in Rennsalear.
We departed immediately for Catskill, NY, about an hour south. After docking at
the Catskill Marina, the gentlemen took a long walk. I stayed aboard to supervise
activities. The most prominent sight they reported was a series of papier mache cats that
were placed on the sidewalks. These were to be auctioned off on Saturday, as had been
cod statues in Boston, cow statues in Beaufort, SC, and lobster statues in Gloucester.
At 6:30pm we met on the sundeck for sunset and drinks. Newly abstemious, I
enjoyed a Fresca. Then dinner and bedtime.
Day 2: Friday, September 21
In Catskill, NY
On Friday, September 21, Ben got a rental car and we drove across the river to
tour Olana, Frederic Church’s Persian-style estate across the Hudson. Our guide was
informed and enthusiastic. Church was the leader of the Hudson River School, having
achieved that status after his painting Niagara was shown in 1857. His teacher had been
Thomas Cole, the founder of the school. The house was somewhat weird because of its
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Persian theme and its eclectic façade. The property was landscaped with an artist’s eyeapparently he was constantly cutting new road to create new views.
After Olana we drove down to Hyde Park to see the Vanderbilt Mansion. John
and I had recently seen it, so we stayed in the car while Wes and Dick took the tour. John
slept the entire time, while I kept watch. At 2:00pm we headed back to Catskill, where
we had a great dinner on the aft deck and watched another Sox-Yankees game (the Sox
lost in 14 innings).
Day 3: Saturday, September 22
Catskill, NY to Kingston, NY
On September 22 we cruised down to Kingston, NY, where we stayed at the
Hudson River Maritime Museum. The gents took a walk in town while I stayed on the
boat. After drinks and appetizers on the sun deck, we had another fine dinner,. After
dinner we watched the first episode of the first season of Jeeves and Wooster, a DVD that
Wes had given to the boat.
Day 4: Sunday, September 23
Kingston, NY to Newburgh, NY
On the morning of Saturday, September 23, we rented a car and drove across the
river to Rhinebeck, NY, where we toured Wilderstein, the home of the Suckely
(“Soakley”) family. Wilderstein means “Wild Man Rock,” a name taken from an old
Indian pictograph on a rock showing an American Indian with a spear. Margaret
(“Daisy”) Suckeley was a “close friend” and confidante of FDR throughout his life. She
lived at Wilderstein until her death in 1991 at age 99. The house is a tri-colored Gothic
Revival style with a five-storey round tour topped by a turret. It had begun as a two-story
Italianate house and been converted in the 1880s when Richard Suckeley, Daisy’s father,
bought the house. It was an interesting design, but was in a state of semi-repair. The
group that acquired it in 1991 had taken on a real white elephant that hadn’t been painted
since 1910.
After Wilderstein we drove to FDR’s estate, where John and I visited the
Presidential Library while Dick and Wes visited Springwood. The library, built in 1941
when FDR was President, was very impressive, filled with personal mementos and
displays depicting the Depression and World War II.
After FDR’s estate, we drove back to Rhinebeck and had lunch in a nice pub. I
fear that our raucous talk, involving alien abductions, the Mothership, and colonoscopies,
was hard on other diners: As we left we passed a couple having lunch; the woman stuck a
fork up her nose and the man said “Well, that’s better than a colonoscopy.” We had made
our mark!
Our next stop was Myeerah, which left Kingston and cruised to an anchorage
between Storm King Mountain and Newburgh, NY. We were just across from
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Bannerman Island, where the ruins of Francis Bannerman’s Scottish Castle were like bare
bones against the sky. We had dinner on the aft deck—it was a gorgeous sunset with the
rising moon showing bright over Storm King Mountain. After dinner we watched the first
episode of Ken Burns’s The War—a seven-episode series on World War II.
Day 5: Monday, September 24
Newburgh, NY to Tarrytown, NY
On the morning of Sunday, September 24, we took the tender to inspect
Bannerman Island. It really was quite a complex, with a huge castle and a smaller castle
on the back side, and with several small fortress-like structures placed around the island.
After it had been destroyed by fire it had been converted to an arsenal. Now public events
are done on the island.
After returning to Myeerah we cruised past Storm King, West Point, and
Poughkeepsie to Tarrytown, where we anchored off of the Tarreytown Marina at about
1:00pm. Ben rented a car and we drove Dick and Wes to Phillipsburg Manor, where they
and Ben took the tour to Kykuit.
Meanwhile, John and I drove to Sunnyside, Washington Irving’s home in
Irvington, NY. Irving bought the house located right at the river in 1835. Five years later
the railroad tracks were laid between the house and the river, and the very frequent
Amtrak commuter trains to New York City made it hard to appreciate the serenity that
might have been. The house was small by Hudson River standards. Irving, his widowed
brother, his brother’s five daughters, and three servants lived in its five small bedrooms.
It was a charmingly eclectic fairy-tale-style home, where Irving died in 1859.
After Sunnyside we drove through the grounds of the adjacent estate, Lyndhurst.
Lyndhurst was at the opposite end of the standard-of-living spectrum. Jay Gould, the 19 th
century financier and railroad robber baron, had built it in the 1850s. It was a sprawling
estate with a (now unglazed and unused) greenhouse that must have been 5,000 square
feet; only the white metal frame remains. Nearby was the mansion, and at some distance
from the mansion were the bowling alley (a long shingled house with living quarters on
the second floor and a bowling alley below) and a large brick building housing the
swimming pool. Coaches must have been used to take guests between the venues.
After this, we returned to Phillipsburg Manor, just as the shuttle bus returned from
Kykuit. We all returned to the Tarrytown Marina, where Amanda was waiting in the
tender. After dinner we saw another episode of The War and a third episode of Jeeves
and Wooster. And so to bed…
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Tarrytown, NY to Boston, MA
On Tuesday, September 25, we spent the morning on the boat. At 11:00am Ben
drove us to the Westchester County Airport in White Plains, where we boarded our return
flight and departed at 12:15pm. We were at Hanscom just after 1:00pm. After goodbyes,
I drove Wes home and was in Boston at 2:00pm.
Epilogue
This was one of the best mens’ trips I’ve had. The weather was great for all six
days, and the Hudson was a calm cruising ground. We saw a lot of estates along the way,
and we had a marvelous time together—lots of laughter, some serious conversation, and
an easy congeniality. It was a perfect recipe of guests—Wes has such a dry sense of
humor, Dick is zany and sometimes off-the-wall, and John plays the cantankerous
curmudgeon. Wes and Dick engaged in long and deep discussions about business,
economics, and the larger world. John and I engaged in our continuous tweaking of each
other. It was just lots of fun with something for everyone.
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Cruising the Caribbean: The Spanish Virgin Islands
January 20 - 27, 2008
First Mate Peter Fortune
Chef Meghan Perrone
Passengers Joan Fortune
Frank and Julie Keally
Alan and Carolyn Keller
John and Betty Pearson
Total Trip
Prologue
Well, much has happened since our last trip four months ago. Amanda has gotten
pregnant and will move to land. Mark, upon hearing that he might have to do more work,
has quit. Ben will (Thank God!) stay on as captain, but he has had to replace two crew
members, one of them irreplaceable. He has hired Meghan Perron and Eric Jussame, a
24-tear-old couple with limited experience but the right attitude. Meghan will be the chef
and Eric will be trained to become mate.
It has been four months since we have overnighted on Myeerah. Indeed, only two
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short day trips have occurred since the 25 of September. This near-maiden trip is with
Joan’s bridge group in Naples, all very good friends
Day 1: January 20, 2008
Naples, FL to San Juan, PR
Although we had noon flights to San Juan from Miami, we had to leave our home
at 6:00am because the Naples streets would be closed for the annual half-marathon. At
6:30m we all met at the Pearsons, where they had very kindly arranged a 14-passenger
van to take us to Miami International Airport. We arrived at the airport 9:30am, checked
in with Smidgen, and waited for our flight in the American Airlines Admiral’s Club.
The flight was uneventful, and at 1:30pm we arrived at the San Juan Bay Marina,
accompanied by a double rainbow. Ben met us, reporting two important events. First,
during the very rough trip to Puerto Rico our 20-foot Boston Whaler, which was being
towed, had been lost at sea—the tow ring had pulled out of its bow. Second, Eric’s 94year-old grandmother, to whom he was very close, had just died and he had gone home
for the week. That left only two crew for eight passengers, so it put considerable stress on
Ben and Meghan. But they vowed to soldier on!
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After getting settled, everyone took a walk toward Old San Juan. They returned
reporting that the walk had been through a seedy area along a major highway, past
commercial docks and housing projects Then at 4:00pm we sat down to “watch” the
Patriots-Chargers playoff game on my Blackberry—we were out of satellite TV range.
The Patriots won, continuing their undefeated season (now 18-0) and winning a spot at
the Superbowl against the New York Giants, who had defeated the Green Bay Packers.
After a great shrimp dinner, well served by Ben and Meghan, the bridge players
retired to the bridge table, and I retired to bed.
San Juan, PR to Puerto del Rey, PR
40 nm, 4 hrs, 10.0 kts
Ben gave us a 7:00am wake-up call. We wanted an early start to our 40-mile trip
to the marina at Puerto del Rey on the east end of the island, near the town of Fajardo: a
brisk east wind with 6-8 foot seas was forecast and we hoped to catch the calmer part of
the trip.
At 8:45am, after a good breakfast, we started out. Once we had left the calm port,
we turned into seas on our port bow; they were just as advertised. The frequency of the
waves was long enough to create a strong pitch rather than a high-frequency shudder.
Soon Alan was seasick, eventually filling three plastic bags. Soon after, Julie followed
suit. At about 11:00am we were hit by rain and a fog bank, after which we rounded the
southeast end of the island and entered a more protected area.
We approached Puerto del Rey Marina at 12:30pm and at 12:45pm we were
docked. The marina is newly built and huge, with 1,000 boats. After getting settled we
went to the marina restaurant for lunch, leaving Julie and Alan at the boat to recuperate
from their travels. The lunch was surprisingly good.
In the afternoon a tragedy struck. Betty reported that her watch was missing. She
claimed that she had given it to John to hold, and that they could not find it.
While eating we saw a Spanish-language broadcast on TV announcing flood
warnings for the Fajardo area. Mindful of our safety—and the need for some to play
bridge, and others to nap—we returned to Myeerah at 3:15pm.
While the rains never came, the wind did build and it was great to be at a sturdy
dock. At 6:30p we huddled in the salon, then we had a very well-prepared veal dinner. By
9:30pm we had retired.
And so to bed…
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Day 3: Tuesday, January 22
In Puerto del Rey, PR
On deck at 8:00am to a sunny but windy morning, At 10:30am we all piled into a
rented 15-passenger van and, with Ben at the helm, drove to the world-famous Sizzler
restaurant in San Juan. There, at 11:30am, we met Richard, our guide to Old San Juan.
We transferred to Richard’s van and set out. The first ½ hour was a harangue on
Puerto Rico while Richard drove at 25mph on a major highway,. Ignoring horns ad even
a police car’s effort to speed up his dragging ass. He was going to finish his spiel
regardless of the consequences! We learned of Puerto Rico’s high birth rate (encouraged
by a 7:1 female-to-male ratio that allowed men to act like alley cats), slack parental
attitudes, loyalty to the U.S., the high employment share by government (one-third), the
loss of agriculture, the rise of an industrial base in medical research and pharmaceutical
production, and many other items of some interest. The harangue ended on cue as we
passed the Sizzler on our way to Old San Juan-we had been going in a circle for the full
½ hour!
Old San Juan was much better than expected. We had heard that it was given over
to T-shirt shops, but instead it was a charming, well-maintained area with a very upbeat
historical feel. Our first stop, after a more informative flyby of high spots, was a hotel
that protected an old fort. In the hotel’s pond swam a black swan—they do exist!
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Then it was on to the large early 17 century fort of San Cristobel. Wellmanicured, it was like any other old Spanish fort. After this, we went to a restaurant at El
Convento, a hotel that once was the nunnery for the cathedral across the street; the lunch
was very good and our waiter had a cheerful sense of humor.
After a quick walk through the cathedral, and a short shopping trip, we returned to
the Sizzler, arriving at 4:30pm. We thanked Ricardo and started on the hour-long return
to Puerto del Rey. Delayed by a false start, heavy traffic exiting San Juan, and a stop at
an Amigo grocery store, we reached the boat at 6:30pm.
Betty’s watch was still missing!
A brief rest, dinner, and so to bed…
Day 4: Wednesday, January 23
Puerto del Rey, PR to Isla de Culebra, PR
21 nm, 2½ hrs, 8.4 kts
On deck at 8:30am to another sunny morning, Our plan was to go to the
rainforest at El Yunque Park, but the wind had laid down a bit so we decided to go to Isla
de Culebra. Of course, by 9:30am when we left the dock, the wind had picked up again,
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but the ride to Culebra was not too bad in spite of a 5-foot head sea. Indeed, not one
breakfast was lost!
At noon we rounded Punta del Soledad (“Soldier Point,” named for a British
soldier found on the point long ago) and entered the narrow channel between two reefs
that marked the mouth of Ensenada Honda (“Deep “), the largest harbor on the island.
Proceeding to the head of the harbor, we dropped the anchor off the town of Dewey,
named after Admiral Dewey. Its 2,000 year-round residents showed no sign of life.
At 2:00pm, after much to-ing and fro-ing, we sat down to lunch. Then at 3:00pm
Ben, Joan, and all six guests left on T/T Myeerah to go to Playa Santa Rosario, a famous
beach at the northwest end of Culebra. The goal was “The Wall,” a popular snorkeling
area with a 15-foot coral-strewn cliff. The tender looked like an overstuffed sausage as it
started on its way. Smidgen watched forlornly as the eight heads disappeared into the
short canal leading through Dewey to the west side of Culebra. Gilligan’s Island came to
mind.
Lost in the slough of Despond, Smidgen and I settled back to deal with our
newfound loneliness. The view was marvelous, with high hills surrounding the harbor,
each dotted with houses, and the metropolis of Dewey lying at the water. The sun shone
and the swinging of Myeerah on her anchor imparted a sense of peace and wellbeing.
John had found Betty’s watch, located just where she had left it while playing
bridge in the pilothouse salon. Wondering how long it would take before finding the
watch that he had lost, he strapped it on his wrist and began waiting for her to notice.
At 4:30pm the explorers returned, reporting that the water had been too
murky with sand stirred up by the waves to snorkel. A period of rest and recovery
followed. At 6:00pm I took the tender for a tour of the harbor, returning at 6:30pm when
we all sat in the salon enjoying crab cakes and drinks. At 8:30pm we sat down to a
swordfish shish-kebob dinner; among the items of conversation was the mystery of
Betty’s lost watch, which John still had on his wrist and Betty still had not noticed.
After dinner we played a game that Betty and John Pearson introduced. Called
“:RCL” it is a fun but skill-free dice game with the objective of starting with six quarters
each and shifting quarters according to the throw of three dice. The last person with a
quarter wins.
By 10:00pm we had retired. And so to bed.
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Day 5: Thursday, January 24
Isla de Culebra, PR to Isla de Venues, PR
40 nm, 3½ hrs,11.4 kts
On deck at a late 9:00am. Once again, sunny with brisk east winds. After a light
breakfast, Carolyn and I took the tender through the short channel between East Dewey
and West Dewey, passing under the lift bridge that is now a foot bridge. It was not a very
attractive route though mangroves that hinted of a more appealing past. Now it is taken
over by old buildings and old boats.
At 11:00am we left Dewey and headed for Isabel Segunda, the town on the north
side of Vieques. I had been to Vieques in 1962, as a young Marine during the Cuban
Missile Crisis. It was on a very different type of boat—a troop transport vessel—that had
left San Diego CA and gone through the Panama Canal. We spent most of our Caribbean
time steaming up and down the coasts of Jamaica and Cuba, with stops in Kingston,
Vieques, and Guantanamo Bay. The Vieques stop found us billeted in tents on the eastern
end of the island, near a large absolutely pristine white sand beach. In deference to the
young ladies of the town, and their parents, we were quarantined on the Naval
Reservation.
Since that time the U.S. Navy presence on Vieques has been scaled back and the
island is no longer used for bombing and naval target practice, an undoubted relief to the
natives. The scaling back of the naval presence undoubtedly damaged the fragile Viequen
economy, but safety from errant armaments must have been an important offset.
We had the seas on our stern, so the 16-mile ride to Isabel Segundo was
comfortable. At 12:30pm we arrived to find a picturesque town well above the level of
Dewey. Unfortunately, the seas were coming directly into the area where we could
anchor—a more protected area was too shallow. So we did a flyby and continued on our
way around the western end of the island. Our destination was Esperanza (“Hope”), a
town with a protected anchorage in the southwest of Vieques.
At 2:30pm we arrived at Esenada Sun Bay (“Sun Bay Cove”), the bay just east of
the town of Esperanza. After dropping the anchor we discovered a severe roll due to
breakers coming over a reef. So we lifted anchor and moved over to the bay at Esperanza.
By 4:00pm we were settled just off the town. There was still a roll, but it was less
pronounced.
Joan called a meeting of the Committee of the Whole. The unanimous decision
was to stay at Esperanza for two nights. Tomorrow night we would go on a tour of Bahia
Mosquito, also known as Bioluminescent Bay. Tonight we would eat at Tradewinds, a
restaurant in town.
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At 4:30pm I drove all but John, Betty, and Frank to the town dock. Smidgen
joined them, having held her poop for the entire day. Betty, John and Frank swam off the
boat while I waited for the call to pick up the landlubbers. The call came and my job was
done.
At 7:00pm Ben took us to land in two shifts. We walked a very short distance to
El Quepeno, a semi-open air restaurant on the waterfront. It was filled, and the food was
excellent, though the sound level was extremely high. It certainly had an island ambience.
All agreed that it was a “10.”
All day long, a study in desperation, John had been flashing the arm with Betty’s
watch. She remained oblivious.
By 10:00pm we were all on board, soon to retire from the stresses of a difficult
day.
Day 6: Friday, January 25
At Esperanza, Isla de Vieques, PR
On deck at a late 9:30am. A rainsquall had just passed through, catching Alan
who was on shore hiking and birding. Frank was reading on the aft deck, while everyone
else was playing bridge in the pilothouse.
The plan for today is to have no plan. In keeping with this, all but Alan hung
around the boat playing bridge or reading, until 12:30pm, when we sat for lunch in the
dining room (a rain squall having just ended). After lunch Ben and I took the ladies to a
nearby reef where they swam and snorkeled. The men then took a tender ride to Ensenada
Sun Bay, the adjacent cove, and inspected the very long pristine beach.
At 2:00pm, as we returned to Myeerah, Alan called for a pickup at Esperanza’s
dock. He had walked the seven miles across Vieques to Isabel Segundo. He reported
seeing no interesting birds but having eaten his way across the island as people along the
way took pity on him. One young lady told him “Oiga Viejo, mejor que tome el publico!”
(“Listen old man, better you should take the bus!”). Alan, alive and invigorated after
exceeding the young lady’s expectations (though he did take the bus back from Isabela
Segunda) joined us for an inspection of Esperanza’s beachfront. Then it was back to the
boat.
At 3:00am Ben and I picked the ladies up at the reef. We were all on board by
3:30pm.. At 6:30p we sat down for dinner, and at 7:45pm we started into Esperanza to
meet a dilapidated, windowless school bus that would take us to Bahia Mosquito, known
in the marketing literature as Bioluminescent Bay.
The bus picked us up at 8:15pm and took us to the check-in location, where we
had an abbreviated briefing on the bay—abbreviated because we had to get to the bay
before the full moon rose. After a tortured trip down back roads that had potholes bigger
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than the bus, we arrived at our destination. Boarding onto a large pontoon boat driven by
an electric motor, we were take to the middle of a small, enclosed bay where we
anchored. After a lecture on the stellar constellations, most of us went into the water.
Both the water and the experience were really cool! The water felt wonderful, and
any movement excited sparkles of phosphorescence from the dynoflaggelates,
microscopic plankton that emit light when irritated. The peak of the season is in May,
when small harmless jellyfish breed. But even in January the effect was magical. This
was really an 11 on a scale of 10.
After our immersion we returned to land and piled onto the bus. By 10:30pm we
were on board. And so to bed…
Day 7: Saturday, January 26
Isla de Vieques, PR to Puerto del Rey, PR
24 nm, 2 hrs, 12.0 kts
On deck at 8:00am. It was very sunny and calm, the wind having shifted to the
northeast and putting us in the lee. At 9:00am, after breakfast, we were on our way back
to Puerto Rico’s mainland.
The two-hour ride was extraordinarily gentle, especially given our recent
navigations. It was sunny and warm, with a slight sea on our starboard bow. At 11:00am
we arrived at our dock and immediately formed the Committee of the Whole to organize
our day. It was decided that we would go to Fajardo for lunch, then to the El Yunque rain
forest. After this, we would return to Myeerah, where a swim was planned.
At noon we started the long walk to the parking lot, and at 12:30pm we were
seated in the Metropole Restaurant, a Cuban restaurant in Fajardo. We enjoyed large
Cuban lunches, and at 1:45pm we were on our way to El Yunque. After missing the
poorly marked turnoff, we backtracked and found our way onto Route 191, heading
south. Passing through the town of Yunque, we entered the El Yunque National
Reservation.
The road from El Yunque North to El Yunque South is 13 km long; exit is
impeded at the south end by a landslide that occurred a decade ago. We drove the very
narrow and winding road for about 11 km, stopping briefly at Coco Falls, at the Yokahu
Tower (an observation tower built in 1962), and, finally, at a visitors area, from which
some of us started a walk on the 1 km trail to El Mina Waterfall. However, the trail was
longer and more difficult than expected, so the trekkers turned back before reaching the
falls.
At 4:15pm we started on our return trip. The rainforest had been an interesting
sight, with a high canopy climbing 2,000 feet above sea level and with occasional grand
views of the lower forest and the Caribbean. But little wildlife was seen, and there was
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usually no view from the road except thick vegetation. It clearly was a place for hikers,
not gawkers.
At 5:00pm we were back on the boat. It was too late for a swim, so we retired for
bridge and reading. At 6:30pm we gathered in the salon, and at 8:00pm we sat down to
the last supper, a huge surf and turf dinner with the largest lobster tails I’ve ever seen!
After dinner we played a round of RCL. The conversation turned to the lost
watch, with John almost pirouetting to display his wrist. Betty still did not notice.
Realizing that he might have to spend the rest of his life wearing Betty’s watch, John
finally shoved it in front of her face and said “Does it look like this?” She carefully
looked at the watch, assessing the answer she should give. Finally awareness struck and
John was able to give her the watch. A sigh of relief was heard around the boat! None is
so blind as she who will not see!!
Frank won RCL, and at 10:00pm, just as the South Carolina Democratic Primary
polls closed, we retired for the night.
And so to bed…
Day 8: Sunday, January 27
Puerto del Rey, PR to Naples, FL
All good things come to an end! At 9:00am we were on deck. It had rained
heavily earlier and a double sunset had occurred, just as when we arrived. It was sunny
and dead calm, for the first time in a week.
At 10:45am golf carts arrived to take us to the van. At 12:00pm we were at the
airport for our 2:00pm flight to Miami. The flight landed in Miami at 3:20pm local time
and sat on the tarmac for 45 minutes because another plane was at the gate. We finally
reached our van and arrived at home at 7:00pm.
Our trip to Paradise was over!
Epilogue
This was a great trip that started out poorly, with bad weather and boat-crunching
seas from San Juan to Puerto del Rey. Alan, having filled three bags on that leg (e claims
five and a wastebasket), held up extremely well for the rest of the trip. Fortunately, the
weather improved each day.
The high spot was the visit to Vieques: The bioluminescent bay, the walk across
the island (for Alan), hanging out on Myeerah, and the dinner ashore, were all great fun.
It has clearly improved since my last visit 45 years ago!
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The best news (for me) was that while the boat was understaffed, with only two
crew for eight passengers, Meghan and Ben did a great job. Meghan’s cooking was really
good, and she was a good trouper. Ben, as always, was a “let’s do it!” guy.
Another pleasant part—though no surprise—was that all eight of us got along
extremely well in spite of close quartets for a week. It was a fine group.
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Cruising the Caribbean:
The American and British Virgin Islands
First Mate Eric Jussame
Chef Meghan Perrone
John and Nancy Curtin
Woody and Elizabeth Ives
Total Trip
701 gallons at 55.0gh
Prologue
During the last month our three children have each spent a week on the boat: first,
Lara and a friend; then Rob and Victoria sans children; finally, Michelle and Thom with
children. The crew has had just two days between each trip; we fully expect a mutiny.
Lara and her friend reported a very nice time on Myeerah. The winds were high
so they ended up based at the Bitter End on Virgin Gorda, doing day trips when possible.
After her week she came home and took Rob’s three children for his week (seven
children in her house!?!). After that relaxing week she had a knee operation scheduled for
the day after Rob and Victoria returned.
Rob and Victoria followed a similar schedule, basing their visit at the Bitter End.
By all reports they enjoyed great weather, super sunsets and starlit nights at such venues
as Jost Van Dyke and Virgin Gorda.
Michele and Thom, with Riley and Tessa, then had their week. They spent most
of their time at the dock at the Bitter End, where the kids had fun on the beach and at the
pool. A special treat for the kids was playing “pirates,” an activity enhanced by flying the
Jolly Roger on Myeerah’s mast.
Our guests are the Curtins and the Ives, representing the northern branch of Joan’s
bridge partners. I feel like a Bridge Groupie. But in spite of their card-sharpery, they are
delightful people who have taken trips with us before and know the drill. Conversation is
always lively and interesting!
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Naples to Red Hook, St. Thomas, USVI
Joan, Smidgen and I took a chauffer-driven car to the Miami Airport for the
12:45pm departure to St. Thomas. Leaving our house at 8:45am we had an uneventful
trip, arriving at 10:45am. Miami is the airport with the worst signage imaginable, so
finding our way to the ticket counter took a while, as did going through security. Our gate
was the very last one on a concourse that passed through several zip codes. We arrived at
12:15pm, just as boarding began.
Once we had settled on the plane we saw the Curtins boarding. They had stayed in
Miami the previous night, having driven from Mountain Lake, FL. The plane took off on
time, and the flight was uneventful and quite smooth.
At 4:00pm (3:00pm Miami time) we landed. After a 45-minute wait for checked
bags, we took a taxi to the American Yacht Harbor at Red Hook. The ride was on narrow
winding roads up and down mountainsides. For the first time in my life I thought I would
be sick as the taxi leaned left, then right, tilting upward then downward. But we made it
alive and without incident, arriving at 5:30pm.
The Ives had arrived an hour earlier. So after an hour to unpack and clean up, we
all met in the salon (it was too windy outside) for appetizers. At 7:30pm we sat down for
an excellent salmon dinner and spirited conversation bout politics, energy policy, and
other important matters.
At 9:45pm we disbanded. And so to bed…
Day 2: Saturday, March 1, 2008
Red Hook, St. Thomas, USVI to Jost Van Dye, BVI
12 nm, 1 hr, 12.0 kts
On deck at 9:00am to a 20-knot wind. At 10:30am, after breakfast, we left Red
Hook for the 9-mile ride to Maho Bay on St. John. We passed Lovango Cay, named for
its early history as the location of a brothel named ”Love and Go.” Arriving at 11:15am,
we dropped the anchor and the tender. Ben drove us to the well-populated beach at
11:45am. While Ben stood off in the tender we swam and snorkeled. The water was
delicious, and the fish life was brightly colored.
At 1:00pm we were back on board and headed on the short 3-mile ride to Jost Van
Dyke. Ben took Myeerah way in toward the shore so we could get out of what had
become a 30-knot wind. Fortunately, we had arrived early enough to find a good space to
anchor.
At 2:30pm we sat down for a bean pie lunch on the aft deck—delicious! Ben had
collected our passports and was at the Customs House. At 3:30pm we were finished; Ben
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had not returned, boding poorly for the staffing of the BVI entry station. On returning he
reported that the paperwork load had increased and, with 9 on board, it had taken quite a
while. The good news was that they had checked him in AND out.
At 6:30pm we gathered on the aft deck, and at 7:30pm we boarded the tender for
the ride in to Foxy’s for a Saturday night blowout, with a BBQ buffet and live reggae
music. But business is slow: Foxy’s was half full at best, and though we were the oldest
folk there, the average age was probably 50. The food was plentiful, as mediocre food
often is, and the live reggae turned out to be a CD with Frank Sinatra and other music
popular in the States.
By 9:15pm we were back on Myeerah. And, after some conversation in the salon,
so bed…
Jost Van Dyke, BVI to Soper’s Hole, Tortola, BVI
9 nm, ¾ hr, 12.0 kts
Awake at 7:45am and on deck by 8:30am, the last to appear. After a leisurely
breakfast and a period of boat-people-town seeing, Myeerah departed for Little Jost Van
Dyke, three miles away. Woody, Jack and I followed in the tender, passing closer to the
shore and watching birds feasting on reef-fish.
At 10:30am we anchored just off Sandy Spit, a well-filmed postage stamp-size bit
of palm completely surrounded by a wide sandy beach. At 11:00am we took the tender to
the spit and anchored it off while we swam and snorkeled. There were several other
people on the island, including some young women with ripe plums.
At 1:00pm, after some difficulty retrieving the tender—it had to be dragged to
shore by the anchor rode in my teeth because it was in water too deep to climb in—we
returned to Myeerah for lunch and a well-deserved rest. The lunch conversation turned
into a round robin of jokes. One (Woody’s) was about the grandfather, father, and son
who went golfing. A ravishing young woman was added as the fourth. At one hole she
was uncertain about the line for a putt and said that she would go to bed with the fellow
who advised her so well that she sank it. The son investigated carefully and reported his
view. The father did the same, with a slightly different line. Then it comes to the
grandfather, who doesn’t even look before announcing “It’s a gimme!”.
Jack told one about the neurology professor at a Texas medical school who was
trying to explain to his class that under some circumstances people lost awareness of
what their body parts were doing. The students had difficulty understanding this, so he
picked out an attractive female student and said “For example, Miss Jones, suppose
you’re in the middle of an orgasm. Do you know at that time what your asshole is
doing?” Miss Jones thought for a split second and responded “Well, he’s probably out
hunting—he usually is!”
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And so it went until 3:00pm, at which time Joan and Elizabeth swam off the swim
platform. To prevent them from being swept away by the current Ben set out one of the
dock lines in a large U-shape, each end being tied to the cleat on opposite sides of the
boat. The center of the line was held up by a huge ball fender dubbed “Wilson,” a
reference to the soccer ball that served as Tom Hanks, companion in the movie
“Castaway.”
At 4:00pm we set out for Soper’s Hole, just six miles away. This is a great harbor
between high hills, bedecked by gaily-colored houses—some quite nice—strung out in
the hills. It has a small but active and upscale waterfront, quite a contrast with Jost Van
Dyke.. We tied up at a face dock at the Soper’s Hole Marina after winding through the
many sailboats in the mooring field. After getting settled a bit we all walked the short
distance to the waterfront stores, where I bought a great Tilly hat at Pusser’s Company
Store and Joan got a present for Riley. Then we had a drink at Pusser’s outside bar, after
which we returned to Myeerah.
At sunset we were on the sundeck with a fantastic view directly up the harbor of
the sun dipping down over St. Thomas, with the craggy hills of St. John and Great
Thatcher Island framing the scene. Then it was appetizers and a great curried sea bass
dinner.
At 9:00pm Jack and the ladies went up to the pilothouse salon for some bridge. I
retired to my room. Having finished my hardcover book (“The Panic of 1907”) I began
an electronic book on my new Kindle, a gift from Lara.
And so to bed…
Soper’s Hole, Tortola, BVI to The Bitter End, Virgin Gorda, BVI
27 nm, 2½ hrs, 10.8 kts
Awake at 8:00am. It had rained heavily during the night, and after one last
downpour the clouds drifted away and the sun came out. Near us were La Buscadera,
Truman’s Presidential yacht, and Cheetah Moon, a large vessel with the mien of a prison
ship. We were at the fuel dock for the night, so we had to leave by 9:30am. Several boats
were circling in wait when we left at 10:00am.
Ben expertly wove Myeerah through the mooring field, coming quite close to
several boats, and we headed for Leinster Bay on St. John, two miles away. There is a
god snorkeling area, a nice beach, a restored sugar distilling mill, and a walk along the
beach and up through dense woods past foundations of old villas once associated with the
sugar mill.
As we entered the bay a lady hopped into her dinghy and came over to tell us that
we could not anchor less than 200 feet from any buoy. We moved but soon afterward a
100-footer with a St. Vincent flag came and anchored just where we had been. The
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lady—who was a Park Service volunteer—told them to move but they refused. Nothing
happened, indicating that once again considerate people came in second.
At 11:30am all but me piled into the tender to head for the beach. The east wind
had come up to 25 knots and we were rolling a bit. By 12:30pm they had returned,
reporting the sighting of manta rays, turtles, and exotic fish. At 1:15pm, after showers,
we headed out to anchor at Peter’s Island, in a more protected spot than Leinster Bay.
Arriving in the cove south of the resort, we anchored near Sacagawea, a 130-foot
Hatteras trailing its toys. There we had lunch, and then headed east to The Bitter End on
Virgin Gorda.
Arriving at 4:30pm, we dropped the anchor at 4:45pm. What I remember as an
anchorage with lots of very large power boats (Aussie Rules, Boudica) is now almost
empty with few owe boats—we were the largest. The tender was dropped and I took
Joan, Smidgen, the Curtins and the Ives to The Bitter End Resort for a walk and look-see.
After ½ hour of a harbor tour I returned to pick them up.
At 7:15pm we all went to the Biras Creek Restaurant, high on a hill overlooking
the harbor. The Curtins and the Ives treated Joan and me to an excellent meal in a circular
open-air fieldstone building. At 10:00pm Ben picked us up in the tender and by 10:30pm
we had disbanded.
And so to bed…
The Bitter End, Virgin Gorda, BVI to The Bitter End, Virgin Gorda, BVI
47 nm, 4¼ hrs, 11.0 kts
Awake at 8:00am. Today is the Ohio and Texas Presidential primaries—(Hilary)
Clinton’s last stand. We were on deck at 9:00am, after a night of Smidgen-barfing. The
winds were still high, at about 20-25 knots.
At 10:30am, after a leisurely breakfast, we raised the best bower and left The
Bitter End. Our destination was the island of Anegada, 15 nm northeast of Virgin Gorda.
Unlike the other BVIs, which are steep volcanic piles of forested rock, Anegada is a low
sand pile with a maximum elevation of 28 feet; it is the third largest barrier reef in the
world, and the least visited of the BVIs, but is rumored to be an interesting destination.
At 11:45am we stood off of Anegada. The sky had turned gray with darkening
cumulus overhead. We would have to anchor with only three feet of water under us, and
the weather was not inviting. So, having “seen” Anegada, we set a southeast course for
Marina Cay off of Tortola’s Beef Island. The time en route was spent reading and
napping in the salon, By the time we arrived at 1:30pm, the sky had turned to a uniform
leaden color and a fog was building. This was soon followed by about ½ hour of rain.
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After lunch in the dining room, the wind quieted remarkably, the sun came out,
and it turned warm. We took the tender to the Marina Cay dinghy dock next to Pusser’s
Company Store. Pusser’s leases the cay, on which there are about six small bungalows.
The ladies shopped while the men took a short walk around the tiny cay. During that time
Ben took Smidgen to walk on another cay where dogs were allowed—the BVIs are not
dog-friendly.
At 4:30pm we all returned to Myeerah. Elizabeth and Joan swam with “Wilson”
while I took Woody and Jack to a nearby reef to snorkel; they reported the best
snorkeling so far. At 5:30pm we were all back on the boat. A wind had come up again
and more dark clouds had drifted in.
At 6:00pm Ben decided to move to a spot more in the lee with a wider harbor in
event we drifted at night. He first tried Spanish Harbor on Virgin Gorda, about seven
miles away. There was little wind there, but a sea swell was coming in. So we picked up
the anchor again and headed for The Bitter End. Arriving in Gorda Sound at 7:45pm, we
had made a large circle.
After an excellent meal in the dining room, we all retired, exhausted from a very
full day.
And so to bed…
The Bitter End, Virgin Gorda, BVI to Coral Bay, St. John, USVI\
33 nm, 2¾ hrs, 12.1 kts
Awake at 9:00am. It was sunny and warm, and we had a super treat for breakfast.
A dish with bacon and sausage bed and an egg on top, baked for 15-18 minutes at 325.
Hilary Clinton had won the Texas, Ohio and Rhode Island primaries (Obama got
Vermont). This still left her behind in the delegate count, but it broke Obama’s winning
streak.
At 10:45am we left The Bitter End heading for The Baths at the west end of
Virgin Gorda. On the way we passed Harle, a 147-foot Feadship with extremely high
freeboard. She had a helicopter circling her with someone standing outside, probably
taking photographs.
At 11:30am we arrived at The Baths and anchored near Coy Koi, a beautiful bluehulled 75-foot trawler-style yacht that had been stalking us since Jost Van Dyke. We took
the tender I to one of the beaches and snorkeled for about an hour. On returning we
decided to move the boat to avoid a swell coming into the anchorage. We first tried
Spanish Town abut a mile away, then we moved on to Little Dix Bay, about two miles
farther. Jack and I followed in the tender, taking a little side tour through Virgin Gorda
Yacht Harbour to see the large yachts.
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At 2:00pm we were anchored at Little Dix, which was a better spot than The
Baths. At 3:00pm, after a nice lunch, we set out for Coral Bay on St. John. With a
following sea we had a very nice ride, arriving at 5:00pm at our anchorage in a small very
protected cove, one of three coves in an area known as Hurricane Hole.
Soon after, Ben and Jack took the tender to Coral Bay, about two miles away.
After touring the metropolis, a task taking five minutes, they returned. Bridge was the
activity of Woody and the ladies.
At 6:30pm we were on the aft deck for appetizers. The Ives brought to our
attention a New Yorker article by Honor Moore about her father, Paul Moore, the
archbishop of St. John’s Cathedral in NYC. After his recent death she had learned that he
was gay. He had been the archbishop of the Indianapolis diocese, and I had met him as a
teenager. It was a very interesting piece!
At 9:30pm, after an excellent snapper dinner, we retired.
And so to bed…
Coral Bay, St. John, USVI\to Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, USVY
23 nm, 1¾ hrs, 13.1 kts
Awake at 9:00am after a poor night’s sleep complete with a nightmare, probably
induced by memories of teenage life with my stepmother brought on by the Moore
article. At 10:00am we had a breakfast of Meghan’s great omelets. The sun was shining
on our coy and quiet cove.
The ladies went swimming with “Wilson,” exercising to the beat of disco music
blaring on the aft deck. Woody, sitting inside and reading, was discomfited by the music
and suggested turning it down, but to no avail: It was concluded that he could control his
personal noise level by removing his hearing aid. He didn’t want to do that, probably
because it would interfere with his reading.
At 12:00pm Myeerah departed, heading directly to St. Thomas. With a following
sea we made good time and were docked at the new Yacht Harbor Grande Marina by
1:45pm. Ahead of us was the 187-foot Excellence III, and next to us was Relentless, a
142–foot Trinity (formerly Mia Else). Nearby were other very large boats, two carrying
small helicopters. Our stern was backed up to the shore, along which were upscale
jewelry and clothing stores. The ladies were salivating!
At 3:30pm all nine of us walked a short distance to the Customs and Immigration
office, where we were speedily checked in by a very pleasant customs official. The ladies
headed off for some power shopping, while the crew returned to the boat and the guys
walked along the waterfront. I soon returned to Myeerah to supervise her first thorough
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washing in a week. Smidgen slept on her countertop, showing a highly developed island
lifestyle.
At about 6:00pm Joan called to say that she had found a gorgeous 8-carat
diamond ring. She wanted to know if she should buy it. I said, “Yes.” She equivocated
and asked me again, and I responded, “Yes!” This went on several times, so finally I
asked why she had called me if she didn’t want my advice. She said, “Well, I called to
find out if I should buy it.” After 43 years of marriage I still don’t understand the
feminine mind.
.
The ladies did not return from shopping until 7:00pm; they reported that their trip
seemed all too short. Joan had bought the diamond ring, and it is quite beautiful.
Meghan gave us plump succulent lamb rack for an appetizer, a great Lobster
Alfredo entrée, and a perfect Amoretto crème Brule for desert. It was quit a last supper.
At 10:00am we disbanded to pack our bags for tomorrow’s departure.
And so bed…
Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, USVI to Naples, FL
The Fortunes and the Ives had an 8:45am flight to Miami. The Curtins would
depart at 4:00pm, allowing Jack more time to shop in Charlotte Amalie.
At 5:55am Ben gave us a wake-up call for our 7:00am cab to the nearby airport.
The plane departed on time, arriving in Miami at 10:30am (Miami time). Within an hour
we in our car being driven home. Smidgen seemed happy.
Epilogue
Another fantastic trip! The chemistry between and among us was great—we
enjoyed good times together, interesting conversations, and lots of laughs. The Ives and
the Curtins are very easy and companionable. The days flew by!
The boat performed well, and we had interesting destinations. Though the winds
stayed high, the cruising was reasonably comfortable, and rain came primarily at night so
it didn’t dampen the trip.
The crew was great. Ben, as always, worked hard and cheerfully to make
everything work. Meghan and Eric were also super. Meghan’s good cheer and
outstanding food lightened the ambience, but not the bodies. Eric worked very hard to
assist both Meghan and Ben, and was a cheerful presence. We are very pleased with our
new crew.
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Naples to Key West
With theNaples Yacht Club
May 1 - 4, 2008
Chef Meghan Perrone
Phil and Jane Francoeur
John and Betty Pearson
Total Trip
935 gallons at 55.0gh
Prologue
This is our first overnight trip since early March, and only the fourth overnight
with the Naples Yacht Club. Because we had to leave early in the morning on May Day,
Joan and I slept on Myeerah the night before departure. It was a bit windy, but we
enjoyed a quiet time together while we had dinner while sitting at the NYC dock.
Our six guests are the Francouers (Phil was NYC Commodore in 2007), the
Gaillards (Charlie is the 2008 Commodore), and the Pearsons, who are about to become
NYC members. This is the Francouers’ first overnght trip on Myeerah. To make the trip
th
even more memorable, May 3 would be Phil’s 67 birthday, so we can share it with him.
Naples, FL to Key West, FL
100 nm, 8½ hrs, 11.8 kts
Awake at 7:15am after a so-so night of sleep for me, and a poor night for Joan.
We were on deck to greet our guests by 7:45am. It was sunny with a brisk easterly
breeze. The forecast was for 15-20 kt winds from the shore, putting some lumpy waves
on our port beam after we cleared the lee of the coast.
We left the dock at 8:15am, enjoying an easy ride during the first two hours. On
the way we noticed a rhythmic groaning sound like cavitation. Ben slowed down and
went into reverse. Whatever was there, probably sea grass, disappeared and we continued
on our way.
Thereafter the seas built up and the winds rose to well beyond the forecast 15-20
kts. By the time we reached the halfway point we were rocking vigorously. At one point
John, who was sitting in a chair on the aft deck, toppled over as the boat rolled. He was
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bruised but not bady hurt. After that, we all stayed in the relative safety of the salon or
our staterooms.
We had lunch at about 2:00pm and sat around for the remainder of the trip. Joan
was verging on seasickness, and even Smidgen seemed to wish that she were somewhere
else. But, finally, at 4:00pm we entered the Northwest Channel into Key West. Once we
entered the outer jetty it calmed down enough to be comfortable.
As we passed through the channel we saw wind gusts to 40 kts. Yup—the weather
gods had fooled the weather forecasters one more time! At 4:45pm we were at our dock
at the Galeon Marina. No other boat had ventured the trip—all would come tomorrow.
Wimps!
The boat was thickly covered with salt. While the crew washed it down, everyone
took a walk into town. By 6:00pm we were back on board preparing for a 6:30pm
cocktail hour at The Commodore, a nearby restaurant.
We met in the salon at 6:30pm, but didn’t head out to the restaurant until 7:15pm.
At the restaurant Joan and I sat with the Gaillards and with John and Susan Howell. After
a very nice time—and OK food—we returned to the boat at 9:00pm. By 9:45pm we had
all retired.
And so to bed…
In Key West, FL
Awake at 7:30am and on deck by 8:00am. It was bright and sunny, but a strong 20
kt wind was still blowing. At 9:45am, after breakfast, Charlie and I took the tender for a
tour while John went below to put ice on the sore back he got when he toppled yesterday.
We toured the Bight looking for a fishing guide, but no luck—they were all
booked up, probably by cruise ship customers. So we went a couple of miles out to look
at Legacy, a 158-foot Perini Navi grounded just north of Key West Harbor. She was
blown onto a sandbar during Hurricane Wilma in October, 2005. She has been gradually
dragged to deeper water. She was pretty beaen up, with no mast, its sides scarred from
rolling on the sandbar, and no equipment on board that we could see.
Then we went over to Mallory Square, which was deserted except for Carnival
Imagination, a large cruise ship. Anchored nearby was Itasca, a 177-foot trawler-style
private vessel. And then it was back to Myeerah, where we arrived just as the ladies were
leaving for a walk.
At 12:30pm everyone was back on board. They had gone to the Truman Annex
and then had window-shopped. I had spent much of the time on the phone trying to
arrange a fishing guide, but everyone still in business was booked for the weekend.
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After lunch I took Smidgen for a brisk walk along the waterfront. She moved
quickly until she just sat down and refused to go farther, declaring our walk to be half
over. We were back on board by 2:45pm. While the bridgeplayers played bridge, I retired
to my stateroom to do the Wall Street Journal’s Friday crossword and nap.
At 6:00pm Ben drove the Fortunes and the Pearsons to the Conch Harbor Marina,
where the Foggs were hosting a cocktail party on Keewaydin, their georgeous 110-foot
sailboat with brightwork inside and out that matches the quality on Hilarium. The
Francouers and the Gaillards walked. At 7:00pm Ben picked us up and took us back to
the Galeon Marina, where we walked to the Bagatlle Restaurant on Duval Street.
The restaurant put all 24 of us on the veranda overlooking Duval Street. Music
was blasting from the Hogsbreath Tavern across the street, and the street noise was high.
But it was a pleasant evening and an active ambience,. The food was very good.
At 9:30pm we walked back to Myeerah, chatted for a few minutes, then retired.
And so to bed…
In Key West, FL
Awake at 8:30am and on deck by 9:00am. It was bright and sunny, but a strong
20-knot wind was (still) blowing. After breakfast everyone walked to the southernmost
point in the U.S. while I took the tender on another tour.
By 12:30pm everone was back on board. At 1:30pm we sat down to a great lunch
of seafood crepe, followed by a mousse cake for Phil Fracouer’s 67th birthday.
At 6:00pm after a lazy afternoon, we hosted all nineteen NYC cruise member for
an on-board cocktail party. The Kentucky Derby was started just after the party began.
The ladies had written each horse’s name on a slip of paper and, as our guests arrived,
each picked a slip and rooted for that horse. The winner was the 3-2 favorite, Big Brown;
he had been picked by Jane Gaillard. Jane received the grand prize—an ugly coffee mug
that had been found in Key West, possibly in an alley. My horse, the filly Eight Bells,
came in second on two broken ankles and had to be put down.
At 7:15pm we all gathered at the nearby A&B Lobster House for another good
dinner. By 9:00pm we were back on Myeerah for coffee.
And so to bed…
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Key West, FL to Naples, F3
100 nm, 8½ hrs, 11.8 kts
Awake at 7:00am for an 8:00am departure. The wind had died down and it was
partly sunny. At 8:15am, after yet another hearty breakfast, I backed Myeerah out of the
fairway, weaving to avoid pointy-bowed boats sticking out. Spinning the boat when we
got to the bight’s main channel, we were set to go.
The ride to Naples was calm and comfortable—a great contrast with the trip
down. There was reading, napping, and bridge as we worked our way to a 1:30pm lunch:
a great Kobe beef salad. The water was very quiet as we approached the coast, so our
stress levels were low.
After lunch, bridge recommenced for those of that persuasion. Others were less
ambitious. The ride kept getting better and at 3:45pm we closed in on Gordon Pass.
Because it was a beautiful day, the channel was chock full of boats, slowing our progress
considerably. At 4:45pm we were at the NYC dock.
Epilogue
This was our fourth overnight trip with the NYC: Key West (2005), St..
Petersburg (2005), Bca Grande (2008), and Key West (2008) E ach has been great fun,
and this was certainly no exception. It is remarkable that only three boats made it down
(us, Keewaydin, and Sea Jaws, a 49-foot East Bay), but there were as many as 24 people
at the evening events. Some flew down in the Fehrenbach’s turboprop and others drove.
It is testimony to the great community that the NYC has built!
We enjoyed our guests immensely. The Pearsons got to meet other NYC
members, so their introduction as new members will be easy.
Let’s do it again!
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Naples to the Dry Tortugas
May 10 - 14, 2008
Chef Meghan Perrone
Norman Berg
Charlie Gaillard
John McGlennon
Total Trip
1,020 gallons at 55.0gh
Prologue
Joan has flown to Boston to spend Mother’s Day with the children. I have invited
three very good friends to join me on a trip to the Dry Tortugas for some R&R and
fishing. At 3:30pm I took T/T Myeerah, the newly painted 25-foot Pursuit, to Myeerah.
At about 5:00pm Norm and John arrived, having flown from Boston on Jet Blue. At
5:30pm Charlie arrived.
At 6:00pm we went to the aft deck for appetizers and drinks, and at about 7:00pm
we began dinner—an excellent swordfish on a relatively tasteless bed of pasta. We talked
until about 9:00pm, when John sat down to watch the Minnesota Twins and Boston Red
Sox Game. Norm and I retired to read and contemplate. John soon followed when the TV
went out of service.
110 nm, 8½ hrs, 12.9 kts
Awake at 7:30am after a poor night. At 8:00am Norm, John and I took T/T
Myeerah for a tour of the area while Myeerah prepared to depart. At 8:30am we had
exited Gordon Pass behind Myeerah. The sea was only slight chop, so we could easily
transfer to Myeerah and put T/T Meerah under a long tow.
Here is where it got interesting. I nosed the Pursuit up to Myeerah’s swim
platform and Norm scooted on his butt off the bow and onto the platform. John, for
reasons known only to the angels, thought that he could stand up on the Pursuit’s bow
and step off onto the swim platform. Failing to appreciate the hazards from such a long
step, he fell sideways into the water. Fortunately, he did not fall bacward or forward, so
serious damage was avoided. Also fortunate was that Myeerah’s engines were in neutral..
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But there was a strong current carrying him past the Pursuit. I grabbed him and he
worked his way upto the swim platform, where Ben and Eric hauled him out of the water.
At which point he fell into the water again!
But read on—there’s more. Sopping wet, John went down to his room to dry and
change clothes. On the way down the stairs he slipped and fell—an accident eerily
identical to his wife’s fall on the Hudson River trip. So now we had a sopping John
moaning in agony at the bottom of the stairs. Eventually he was able to stand and, a few
minutes later, he appeared on the aft deck for breakfast, claiming through clenched teeth
that he was well..
At 9:00am we were finally on our way. The wind was light from the southwest,
and the ride was easy and comfortable. At 5:30pm, after hours of reading and napping—
both are manly pursuits—we arrived at Fort Jefferson. Disconnecting the Pursuit, Norm,
Charlie and I toured the harbor to pick out a spot to anchor. The Park Service had reset
the navigtion aids to make about 50% of the harbor inaccessible, so even though there
were only a few boats in the harbor we had to position ourselves outside of the fort in the
channel heading toward Loggerhead Key. We were all set by 6:15pm.
And then it was appetizers inside (too hot outside) followed by a great Kobe beef
filet dinner. We discussed many things, some of them political and the rest having to do
with economics. At times, the conversation became heated, as when John lauded the
prospect of Barack Obama’s grandmother, who lived in a Kenyan hut, being a family
representative at his inauguration. Charlie, believing (correctly in my mind) that this was
applause for Obama’s family moving into the White House, took vigorous exception.
At 9:30pm I excused myself, feeling that my useful contribution to the debate was
over.
And so to bed…
At the Dry Tortugas
Awake at 7:30am after a good sleep. At 9:30am, after breakfast, Ben joined us on
T/T Myeerah and we drove John, Norm, and Charlie to Fort Jefferson. They toured the
fort while Ben and I drove over to Loggerhead Key to see the old windjammer wreck off
its south end.
At 10:30am we picked the guys up at the fort. We returned Ben to Myeerah so he
could move it to the fort’s harbor. Then we went fishing. Our first spot was south of the
fort near a reef, where I had caught my 25-pound grouper last year. We caught four rocks
very quickly and had to cut the lines. So we started trolling in deeper water.
Soon John caught a 5-pound Red Grouper, which would become part of tonight’s
dinner. We continued trolling, getting three barracudas. Finally, just before returning to
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Myeerah for lunch, Norm caught a gorgeous 5-pound Red Snapper—also to become part
of our dinner.
By 12:30pm we were back on Myeerah and ready for lunch. Meghan served a
beautiful Florida lobster salad with lots of meat. At 2:30pm Charlie and John went out
fishing again, with Ben driving the boat. The wind had died down and it was serenc and
sunny. On returning the fishermen reported a catch of one Spanish Mackeral, which was
released.
At 6:00pm we met on the sun deck for appetizers and drinks. The view over the
calm harbor was exquisite, and the jazz music of Satchmo added to the relaxed feeling.
This really is an unusually pleasant way to spend time!
At 7:00pm we went to the aft deck for our dinner of grouper and snapper. It was
excellent, a status not accorded to our conversation, which became political and a bit
argumentative—déjà vu all over again.. After dinner Charlie and John retired, leaving
Norm and me to resolve all the issues that had been raised. We did our best, but we
adjourned at 11:00pm.
And so to bed…
Day 3: Monday,, May 12, 2008
At the Dry Tortugas
On deck at 8:15am. Humidity had arrived along with a brisk northwest wind.
After breakfast we prepared for another successful day. At 10:30am we and Ben headed
out in T/T Myeerah to troll around the fort area. Several barracuda were caught, along
with one Red Grouper and one large Red Snapper—a repeat of yesterday.
At 12:30pm we returned to the mothership for some R&R and air conditioning. At
1:00pm we sat down to lunch. As we ate, the Fort Jefferson, a National Park Service
workingboat over 110-feet long, came in and tied up to the NPS nooring buoy that is new
to the harbor. I was sure that we and other boats would have to move, but to my surprise
there was sufficient swing room.
Just after the Fort Jefferson arrived a school of tarpon came through the harbor
right past Myeerah. It was a pretty sight. Then the Fort Jefferson left after dropping some
supplies, and things returned to normal. John went in to the salon to read and nap, and
soon we were all resting in our rooms.
At 5:30pm John, Norm and I headed off to Loggerhead Key for a swim. There
were breakers along all but the northernmost shore, and the only place to drop an anchor
was north of the Park Service dock. But a woman from the Service came out to tell us
that we had to anchor in an area with breakers, so we headed back to Myeerah.
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Arrving at 6:15pm, we started on cocktails and drinks. At one point John wsent
off like a rocket on me during a line of questioning involving the EPA; this, sadly,
crossed the line into bad behavior, and it altered our views of each other After that, we
talked about important matters: whether club soda should be used to remove stains, for
example. We had a wonderful meal of Snapper and Grouper, with no meaningful
conversation, and at 9:00pm I went to my room.
And so to bed…
At the Dry Tortugas
This is the date of the West Virginia Primary. The conclusion is foregone—Hilary
Clinton will win this battle butr lose the war. The next democratic nominee will be
Barack Obama, of which I will say no more.
After a poor night of sleep I was on deck at 7:30am; only Charlie had beat me.
The sky looked threatening, but very soon it cleared up and turned beautiful, with low
humidity.
At 10:00am we all took T/T Myeerah to see the windjammer wreck off of
Loggerhead Key.We then trolled along the reefs off Garden and Bush Keys. A number of
barracuda were hooked, some fighting with leaps and runs, but they all either broke away
or were released: We threatened no edible fish!
At 12:15pm we returned to Myeerah. Lunch was finshed by 2:00pm and we set
3:00pm as our target time of departure for our last attack on the fish population. Until
then, some napping and reading occurred. First we dropped anchor in the old channel east
of the fort, which had once been closed by a sandbar but had been reopened by a storm in
2007; our reason was that tarpon were running. All navigation aids had been removed
since the sandbar-creating storm years ago, so it was (I imagined) no longer a channel
restricted to anchoring. But almost instantly a ranger called on the radio to tell us that
even though there were no indications of a channel, it was a channel and anchoring was
not allowed. So that was my second infraction of unwritten rules in 24 hours.
After this we trolled outside the fort and over to Hospital Key, which my
chartplotter indicated was within the accessible area in a one-mile radius of the fort. Very
soon te Peter Gladding, a 60-foot aluminum NOAA boat with armed agents, came by and
flashed its lights. They came alongside and boarded us. The boarding agent informed us
that we were outside the allowed fishing area, John sarted to intervene but was told by
Charlie to shut up. The officer, who was very nice and professional, let us go after giving
us a completely inscrutable chart of the Sanctuary showing restricted areas all over the
place. My third infraction within 24 hours!
My prediction is that within 10 years—probably much sooner—the Dry Tortugas
will be completely off limits to boaters and accessible only by customers who come from
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Key West by ferry or sea plane and pay Park Service fees. Bureaucracies can not help but
proliferate new rules and restrictions!
By 5:00pm we were back on Myeerah; a good nap had been wasted. But after a
brief tiff with John, when he told me that my comment that “we” would not return to the
Dry Tortugas was wrong and that I was too autocratic. I replied that that was an amazing
comment coming from him, and that I was not amused John was being John, but it wears
thin. Silence reigned!
We went to the sun deck at 6:30pm for drinks and a great view of the sun
descending over a clear horizon—hopes for a green flash were high. At 7:15pm we went
to the aft deck for dinner. The sun was low on the horizon, and as it settled from a perfect
orb into the water it remained a glorious sight. Sadly, no green flash was seen, though
there was a darkening of the last bit as it settled below the horizon.
We had a wonderful dinner of large thick lamb chops, a pleasant relief from the
fish of the last two nights (which was also excellent). We discussed matters ranging from
the social advantages/disadvantages of the draft, to the possibility that John might fall
overboard when, after dinner, he went to fish off of the swim platform.
At 9:00pm I went to my room, leaving the last question to my two colleagues.
After ascertaining that the West Virginia primary was a significant 2:1 victory for
Hillary, I wrote these notes.
And so to bed…
110 nm, 10 hrs, 11.0 kts
Awake at 6:00am, unusually early. When I got on deck at 6:30am I saw that a
brisk southeast wind had come up and that we had dragged anchor overnight, drifting
toward the metal stanchions that once supported a coaling pier. I called Ben and he
gathered the crew to begin preparations for departure. T/T Myeerah was released from her
position on the hip, and I took her away from Myeerah.
At 7:30am Myeerah departed. The tender was soon attached, and we were on our
way to Naples. Now the wind was at least 20 knots from the northeast, so we had sixfooters on the starboard bow with occasional eight-footers. We were beaten up pretty
badly—the galley cooktop was shattered when an appliance set next to it rose and fell on
the top; one of the brand-new aft seat cushions went away; flower vases fell over. Norm
got sick and went to sit on the aft deck, where he fell over with his chair when a big wave
hit. This was not the fun part of the trip.
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By 11:00am it moderated a bit as we got to the northern edge of Florida Bay. and
by 2:00pm the seas were much better as we got closer to the coast. We could actually
speed up from 10 to 12 knots!
Finally, at 5:30pm, we reached Gordon Pass. It had taken 10 hours to do what had
been an 8½-hour trip on the way down. After disconnecting T/T Myeerah I took her to
our dock and washed the heavy salt off. Then I went to meet Myeerah at the Naples
Yacht Club.
After goodbyes, Charlie went home. Norm, John, and I took the Pursuit to
Pinchers, a waterfront restaurant in Tin City that had been Bill’s, and Merriman’s Wharf
before that. The food was pretty bad!
At 9:30am we were back on Myeerah. The trip was officially over, but we would
stay on the boat this one last night. John and Norm would get a ride to the airport at
10:00am tomorrow.
And so to bed…
Epilogue
This has been the most mixed trip I have had in ten years of boating. On the one
hand, we had excellent weather (except on the return), the crew performed expertly and
professionally, Norm and Charlie were perfect guests, as they have always been, and we
caught some fine fish. On the other hand, a longtime friend had crossed a boundary that
threatened to weaken our relationship.
The difficulty of navigating the new bureaucracy in the Dry Tortugas was another
debit: boaters are faced with unwritten rules and restrictions that change it from a
welcoming venue to an almost Kafka-esque experience. And that will only get worse
over time.
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Cruising the Bahamas’ Outer Islands
May 30 – June 13, 2008
Chef Meghan Perrone
Total Trip
1,600 gallons at 35.0 gph
Prologue
We have spent the last two weeks clearing the decks for major renovation of the
Naples house. Joan has borne the brunt of it—designing, arranging contractors, packing,
and having all furniture moved to storage. I have focused on prepping the boats for either
summer storage (T/T Myeerah) or transportation to Boston (Tarhe).
On May 30 we awoke to our last morning in the house. Except for my office, our
bed, and an old plastic chair in the living room, there wasn’t a stick of furniture. At
10:00am we went to Naples airport where we boarded a chartered Swiss-made Pilatus
PC-12 (N977XL) to fly to Mosstown’s Exuma International Airport on Great Exuma
Island. The plane took off at 10:30am and we landed at 12:00pm. As we disembarked,
Amanda and Cullen Wentworth boarded for the return flight to Fort Myers.
Five days earlier Myeerah had made the 570-mile trip from Naples to Emerald
Bay on Great Exuma in 60 hours. By traveling slowly, at about 9½ knots, she had
consumed only 1200 gallons of fuel, as opposed to the estimated 2,600 gallons at a
normal 12-knot cruising speed. This was a saving of over $6,000 at current fuel costs.
Ben met us after a slow pass through Customs—there was nobody else there, but
our Bahamian customs agent was on island time. Then we drove to Emerald Bay Resort
Marina, which was in the same stage of nonconstruction we had seen last year. Myeerah
had been waiting for five days, and she looked great!
Next to us was Finish Line, a 76-foot Lazarra that we had seen in Sampson Cay
last year. Ben reported that the captain did nothing but supervise the mate, and the mate
did nothing but supervise the cook/stew (who was—get this—his girlfriend!)—she did all
the work.
At 1:30pm we had lunch, then we spent a lazy afternoon until appetizers at
6:30pm and dinner at 7:00pm. After dinner I retired to read while Joan walked Smidgen
and then took a shower.
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And so to bed…
Day 1: Saturday, March 31 2008
Emerald Bay, Bahamas to Clarencetown, Long Island, Bahamas
76 nm, 7¾ hrs, 9.8 kts
Awake at 7:45am after a sound night, and on deck at 8:00am. It was sunny and
warm, with a 10-15 knot breeze. After breakfast we prepared to leave, and at 10:00 we
passed through the narrow, twisted, fairway into Exuma Sound. Our destination was
Clarencetown, on the east side of Long Island. Our guidebook says that the Tropic of
Capricorn goes through Clarencetown, and that the islands below that Tropic (Ragged,
Crooked, Acklin’s) are not worth the fuel and time. So this might be as far south as we
will go.
The ride was very comfortable with a slight pitching as we went into 2-3 foot
head seas. Joan, Smidgen, and I rested and prepared for the energy and vitality of
Clarencetown (NOT!). As we approached the northern tip of Long Island we were passed
at a distance by a very large yacht, apparently headed toward San Salvador.
At 1:30pm, just as we finished lunch, we rounded the northern tip of long island
and headed south along the Atlantic coast. We now had the sea on our port beam, but it
was still very comfortable. Soon we were hit by a rainsquall with 40-knot winds. It
dropped a lot of rain, but it only lasted about ten minutes.
Long Island has earned its name. Sixty miles long, it took us an additional four
hours to reach Clarencetown going at a slower-than-normal speed, about ten knots, to
conserve fuel—now over $5 per gallon in the Bahamas.
At 5:15pm we arrived at Clarencetown Harbor and docked at the Flying Fish
Marina, on the port side just inside the jetty. There were two other boats from Naples,
one of which had experienced a blown MAN engine on the way over (Good Luck!).
While Myeerah was being hosed down—the squall hadn’t properly done its job—
Joan, Smidgen, and I took a ½-hour walk to the Government Dock and the Department of
Agriculture and Fisheries building; the walk was along a dirt road around the waterfront.
At 6:30pm Joan and I went to the aft deck for appetizers and drinks. We talked
with the captain and mate of Patience, a 75-foot blue-hulled Marlow flagged in the
Marshall Islands. They wee returning to Sarasota after a 10½ month cruise to the Amazon
River, Guyana, and other South American ports; it had been the first private yacht to
travel 1300 miles up the Amazon. At one point they had 14 on board—owner family,
guests, and two security guards. Their description of the trip made it sound wonderful.
After sunset and dinner we watched a DVD of Charlie Wilson’s War, which was
very good.
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And so to bed…
Day 2: Sunday, June 1 2008
In Clarencetown, Long Island, Bahamas
Awake at 9:45am—a long night of deep sleep—and on deck at 10:15am. Patience
had left in the early morning. At 11:00am, after a light breakfast-, Joan and I took a
Smidgenless ½ hour walk up a bleak and barren paved street. It was Sunday morning, so
people were either in church or had expired from boredom. It is said that nobody came to
Clarencetown before the Flying Fish Marina was built in 2000, but I think nobody comes
now.
At noon, Ben, Joan, Smidgen and I got into a rented car and started driving
northward. Our first stop was Hermitage, a large white catholic church designed and built
by Father Jerome, a once-Anglican priest on Cat Island who had taken up architecture,
become a Roman Catholic, and had built several churches on the islands in the 1930s. It
had a stark white exterior and a very simple interior befitting its location; it was really
quite charming.
On our drive we passed many churches, some abandoned, others in poor repair,
and very few looking well cared-for. The paved road passed very few interesting
buildings, and it was bounded by the low scraggly vegetation that takes root in land with
lots of wind and little topsoil. There were no signs pointing to any of the tourist
“attractions,” like Dean’s Blue Hole—a well-known deep-dive spot just north of
Clarencetown. So we saw nothing of interest on our trip except gorgeous bays and
beautiful water.
At 1:15pm we arrived in Stella Maris near the north end of Long Island. On the
map it showed as a grid of streets, signaling a metropolis. On the ground it was nothing.
We drove by the Stella Maris Marina, a bleak bowl of water with a few docks and only
one boat, reached by a short, narrow, and shallow channel. No, Myeerah would not be
stopping here!
Then we found (almost by chance) the Stella Maris Resort. Located on a hill
overlooking the water, it was a simple but attractive spot with duplex-style apartments
and a restaurant, where we had a very good lunch. That we were there was a testament to
the marketing value of hanging a sign on the paved road.
At 3:00pm we started back, reaching the marina at a few minutes after 4:00pm.
Joan, Smidgen, and I took a short walk in the heat, then we returned to Myeerah. While
we had been gone Savannah Ann, another 75-foot Marlow (this one white-hulled) had
settled next to us in Patience’s place.
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After some R&R we went to the bow for libations, then at 7:00pm we sat down to
dinner. At 8:30pm we started watching Capote, a truly great movie. And at 1030pm we
retired.
And so to bed…
Day 3: Monday, June 2 2008
Clarencetown, Long Island to French Wells Point, Crooked Island
55 nm, 5 hrs, 11.0 kts
Awake at 8:00am. I had slept soundly but Joan had experienced a nightmare and
had not slept well. She was up and out on a walk when I went on deck at 8:30am.
Smidgen was whining for her leash, so I walked her down the dock and we met Joan as
she returned. We all went back to the boat and quickly left before the tide got too low.
Our destination was an anchorage at Crooked Island. It is part of an archipelago
formed by Acklin’s Island on the east, Fortune Island (aka Long Cay) on the southwest,
and Crooked Island on the north and northwest. These islands form a large inland sea.
This archipelago is near the southern boundary of the Bahamas. I first learned of it when
I read The Doctor Done Reach, a memoir written by an island doctor who served the
southern out-islands. It is a fine example of local history.
At 9:00am we left the Flying Fish Marina and headed southeastward. Cumulus
clouds had built and a swell from the east had arrived. The ride southeast was reasonably
comfortable, and at 1:00pm, as we lunched, we passed Bird Rock Lighthouse, a 110-foot
lighthouse built in 1876 just off the northeast coast of Crooked Island. Though long
abandoned, it is an unusual size for Bahamas lighthouses and it remains a landmark.
We investigated the anchorage off of the resort at Pittstown Landing Resort, with
its long and luscious beach, but there was a swell that deterred us. So we cruised down
Crooked Island’s west coat to French Wells Point, which was more protected. This is
where Crooked’s southern tip and Fortune Island’s northern tip form a shallow passage
into the inland sea, where Flamingos are reported to gather. For the hour-long trip down
Crooked Island’s west coast we had seen squalls traveling to the northwest, across
Acklin’s Island and up Crooked Island’s coast. Each had passed nearby but none had hit
us.
At 2:00pm we had found our spot. We anchored and dropped the tender. At
3:00pm Joan, Ben, Smidgen and I took the tender to the channel between Crooked Island
and Fortune Island to explore the inland sea. The entry was shallow on the starboard side
but there was plenty of water on the port. Once inside we found a huge open area dotted
by mangrove islands and sandbars. About a mile inside were three abandoned boats, high
and dry on shoals. Our guess is that they had taken shelter there in a storm and had been
driven onto the shoals.
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We found a series of stakes that marked a tiny boat channel into Turtle Sound.
This channel snaked between grassy shoals along mangroves for quite a distance. At one
spot near the entrance to the channel sat a very old rusted cannon from the French fort
that had once been there. Regrettably there was almost no wildlife to see, certainly no
flocks of flamingos.
As we exited from the inland sea we stopped at a white sand beach on Crooked’s
southern tip to swim. Smidgen bounded up and down the beach, happily hunting for
anything she came across. She swam into the water, finding the current a bit unsettling,
and dried off by rolling in the sand. Joan and I swam in the warm water—a delicious
experience. This is what I had hoped to find in the outer islands--privacy, beaches and
unusual natural sights! It was a special treat to be sharing it with Joan.
By 4:30pm we were back on Myeerah. The wind had shifted from the southeast to
the northeast, and squalls continued to pass close by as they had all afternoon. Joan gave
Smidgen a proper bath, and then we showered and rested.
At 6:00pm we went up for appetizers. The wind was now from the east and it
brought the train of squalls over us. Fortunately, they were light in both wind and rain.
After a dinner inside, we watched the first two episodes of the first season of Brothers
and Sisters. It was really quite good, with Sally Field holding it down as the mother.
And so to bed…
Day 4: Tuesday, June 3 2008
French Wells Point, Crooked Island to Port Nelson, Rum Cay
65 nm, 6½ hrs, 10.0 kts
Awake at 8:30am and on deck at 9:00am. The skies were leaden, suggesting little
sunshine for he day. Our next destination—Rum Cay—required some tide-timing to get
into the marina. At 10:00am we started on our way, planning to arrive at about 5:00pm
and hang on the hook until high tide at 6:00pm.
The sea was gentle so we had a good ride. The only boats we saw were two
container ships heading south and one freighter coming n from the east. The only activity
was reading and napping.
After a 1:00pm lunch we returned to our R&R. At 4:30pm we arrived off of Port
Nelson, the non-town on Rum Cay, where the only marina—the Sumner Point Marina—
is located. We were concerned about our ability to get in to the marina, so we dropped the
tender and drove in. It was a spring tide, one-foot higher than the normal high tide, and
after careful evaluation, we decided that the fairway was doable, but that any error would
be costly. We also inspected the marina and found that it was without both charm and
amenities.
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We also investigated spots to anchor and found a reasonably protected spot with
enough water. So we dropped the anchor there. There was some roll, but it moderated as
nighttime arrived. By 6:30pm we were on deck for sunset and festivities. At 8:30pm,
after dinner, we watched the third and fourth episodes of Brothers and Sisters.
And so to bed…
Day 5: Wednesday, June 4 2008
Port Nelson, Rum Cay to Sampson Cay, the Exumas
102 nm, 9 hrs, 11.3 kts
Awake at 7:00am when the engines started for an early departure. We left at
7:15pm but I was not on deck until 9:00am when we were well underway. Today is a
long day to get to Sampson Cay, one of our favorite spots in the Exumas.
The ride across Exuma Sound was pleasant, with sunny skies partly clouded with
cumulus. The following sea rocked us gently. At one point we saw a squall on our
starboard side following at a distance—no contact.
At 1:00pm we sat down to lunch, and at 2:45pm we passed though Dotham Cut
from the Sound to the Exuma Bank: Black Rock Settlement was on our port, and Staniel
Cay could be seen about 6 miles away on our starboard side. The banks showed gorgeous
blue water with occasional shallow bars. This is a very pretty stretch!
The slow ride on flat water to Sampson Cay was very pleasant. We arrived at the
shallows outside of Sampson Cay at just past low spring tide. As we inched our way in
we encountered spots with less than one foot of water under the props, but it deepened at
the outside dock. At 4:15pm we were tied up and ready to rock.
At 5:00pm Smidgen, Joan, and I took a short walk to the beach at the inside basin.
Joan left Smidgen and me at the beach while she walked farther. It was low tide so the
sand bars were exposed. Smidgen and I walked across them to some deeper water, where
I swam while she was tied to a post.
When Joan returned we went back to the beach and swam in a deep spot behind
Promises, an 80-foot Hatteras. The owners, who live on the boat year-round, were also
swimming and we chatted. They planned to stay at Sampson Cay until the hurricanes
begin, then return to Fort Lauderdale. They had stories of a rat giving birth on their
boat—the wife hadn’t slept for two weeks because they could not find the rat (they had
disposed of the rat kids). He had stories about boating experiences.
At 6:00pm we were back on Myeerah for showers. Smidgen had been swimming
and rolling in the sand, so she looked like a breaded chicken leg. At 6:30pm we were on
the aft deck with a direct view of the sunset. Following dinner we enjoyed another two
episodes of Brothers and Sisters.
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And so to bed…
Day 6: Thursday, June 5 2008
In Sampson Cay, the Exumas
Awake at 9:00am and on deck for a light breakfast at 9-30am. After breakfast
Joan, Smidgen, and I took the tender to Staniel Cay. The Staniel Cay Yacht Club was
almost empty, a sharp contrast to last year when it and Sampson Cay were both very
busy.
We docked at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club and took a walk to the Happy People
Marina (still closed though it had some signs of life). It was very hot: Joan kept saying
“Mad dogs and Englishmen…”
At about 12:30pm we had lunch at the SCYC restaurant—BLT sandwiches with
more bacon than you can imagine. Then we returned to Myeerah, where we turned the
tender over to Meghan and Eric so they could go to snorkel at the Thunderball Grotto off
of Staniel Cay. A 100-fot Burger, Lady Pat, had joined us; later a 110-foot Westport,
Andiamo, also came in to our dock.
At 3:00pm we walked to the bathtub beach at Sampson Cay’s inner basin. For an
hour we swam and watched Smidgen bound along the beach after birds, leaves, and
another dog that seemed supremely indifferent to her. She also swam and rolled in the
sand.
At 4:00pm we started back to Myeerah. Smidgen was very tired so we showered,
rested, and Ben and I worked on trying to figure out how the internet satellite system
worked—we have had some connection problems. At 6:00pm Joan and I went to the aft
deck, but the sun was in our eyes and it was very harsh, so we had to go inside.
After the sun had gotten low, we went outside for dinner. Following a
scrumptious filet mignon in puff pastry, we sat down for another two episodes of
Brothers and Sisters.
And so to bed…
In Sampson Cay, the Exumas
Awake at 8:30am and on deck at 9:00am. After breakfast Ben and I took the
tender for my annual obligatory trip up Piper’s Creek to Compass Cay. We first inspected
the back side of Sampson Cay, where there is an airfield and hangar, a house, and a 50foot sportfishing boat. This, I have been told, is where one of the earlier owners of
Sampson Cay, from the time before it was renovated, now lives; there have been at least
two owners since then.
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We then passed the Tamarind Resort on Overyonder Cay, which appeared closed
for renovation, then on up Piper Creek to Compass Cay. On this leg we heard a sudden
roar behind us and a small single-engines plane flew by at about 50 feet over our heads; it
must have taken off from Sampson Cay. What a shock!
Piper Creek is usually a busy anchorage, but we saw only two boats at anchor.
Compass Cay Marina had not changed a whit; though it had several larger boats, it still
had an air of indolent desolation and there was little sign of life, except for the lazy nurse
sharks waiting to be fed.
Our return trip was on the outside. We met a rainsquall just as we approached
Sampson Cay—but it was only a sprinkle of rain and not much wind. We arrived at
Myeerah at 12:45pm, the time scheduled for lunch. Our lunch motto is “Never late,
always full!”
After lunch I turned the TV on for the first time in a week. CNN gave me a
needed shot of news: Hilary Clinton had apparently given a concession speech in which
she failed to concede; Israel had made threatening comments about Iran’s nuclear
capacity; Oil had hit $135 per barrel; the U.S. unemployment rate had risen to 5.5% in
the face of a sharp decline in payroll employment; the Dow was down 400 points.
At 3:00pm Joan, Smidgen, and I went to the bathtub for an hour. It is so relaxing,
and the dog just loves paddling back and forth between us. At 4:30pm we were back on
Myeerah showering and resting; Smidgen showered also.
6:00pm—the appetizer bell rang and we went to the sun deck. But it was far too
windy to stay, so we moved to the aft deck, which was in the lee. We watched the sun set,
spoiled by low clouds, and had another great dinner. At 8:00pm we watched yet another
two episodes of Brothers and Sisters.
And so to bed…
Sampson Cay, the Exumas to Royal Island, Eleuthra
104 nm, 9½ hrs, 10.9 kts
On deck at 8:30am as Myeerah began to inch her way out at low tide toward the
Exuma Bank. Joan and Smidgen had just returned from a good walk. It was sunny and
warm. Our destination was the harbor at Royal Island off of Spanish Wells. We will
anchor there and tomorrow we will pick up a pilot to get us through the Devil’s backbone
to Harbor Island.
Our course was northwestward toward Nassau on New Providence Island. Once
past the Yellow Banks, we would turn toward the east and Fleeming Channel, which
passes through the reef structure joining New Providence to Eleuthra. After passing
through Fleeming Channel we would continue to the east-northeast to Royal Island.
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The trip was comfortable in spite of a brisk east wind. During it I finished Look
Homeward, Angel, which I had first read as a teenager. Thomas Wolfe certainly used a
lot of words, but his poetic eloquence, though dated by modern standards, was very
fetching: O Lost, and by the wind grieved, ghost, come back again…A stone, a leaf, an
unfound door. It is a painful near-autobiography of a crazy boy-genius raised in a crazy
family in Asheville, North Carolina. Its appeal to the young is in its angst and anger, to
the old it is in the detailed description of love and hate in its complex characters.
At 6:00pm we arrived at Royal Island, where a sailboat, a 40-foot boat named San
Dollar, and 57 Heaven, a Fleming 55, were already anchored. We later learned that the
Fleming had a problem—when it came into the harbor at Royal Island it had wrapped a
very large polyester line around its shaft. No amount of cutting would release it, so the
owners had to abandon the rest of their trip until it could be removed.
The shoreline had changed since last year: the ruined estate was still there, but a
new dock area had been built on the opposite shore with several nice boats: a Hinckley
Picnic Boat knockoff, a slightly smaller lobster-type boat, and two 30-foot Pursuit-style
fishing boats. At that dock was a guard-type house, a larger structure used for worker
housing, and—of all things—an astroturfed putting green. Above it was a large low
building. West of the ruins a staging area had been cleared, and what looked like a large
well-drilling rig had been built.
Soon after arriving Joan, Smidgen, Ben, and I took the tender to the ancient
concrete dock at the ruins. It had been changed by removing the low segment that once
gave easy access—possibly to reinforce the new “Private Property” sign. A tender from
an anchored sailboat was there with a gentleman who reported that the estate had been
abandoned in 1960, but a caretaker had stayed there until the mid-1970s.
We climbed the stairs to the estate complex. The main house, which had been
easily accessible at my first visit in 2001, was overrun with vegetation, and the outer
structures were in a late state of ruination. A rough dirt road had been cut along the
narrow spine of the island eastward toward Spanish Wells. Along this road were signs to
mark lots that could be developed (“Turtle Beach 12,” on one side, “Port Royal 14,” on
the other side, and so on). But no lots had been carved out of the thick vegetation—we
could only see the whisper of distant expectations.
At 7:00pm we returned to the dilapidated concrete dock, crawled gracelessly onto
the tender, and returned to Myeerah. Smidgen had neither peed nor pooped on our walk.
Perhaps the sense of ruination had stopped her bodily functions.
At 7:30pm we had appetizers and dinner, and at 9:00pm we watched another two
episodes of Brothers and Sisters.
And so to bed…
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Royal Island, Eleuthra to Harbour Island, Eleuthra
17 nm, 2 hrs, 8.5 kts
On deck at 9:30am, having wakened with Smidgen lying next to me looking into
my face. Joan came on deck at 10:30am and we had breakfast. 57 Heaven had left long
before, and Sand Dollar left while we ate. It was sunny and comfortably warm, and even
though it was Sunday a boat arrived carrying workers.
At 11:30am we left Royal Island’s Harbour for a very slow stroll to Meek’s Patch,
an uninhabited island off of Spanish Wells. There we met Woody, a local who would
pilot us through the Devil’s Backbone and into Harbour Island; Woody arrived on his
boat Little Woody, which we took in tow.
Woody drove the boat into Spanish Wells, down and around the southern tip, and
out past Ridley Point into the Devil’s Backbone. All the time he kept up an entertaining
patter about sights along the way, and about his daughter, who is a very talented artist and
who graduates high school in two days and his wife, who bakes great bread and cakes.
The backbone seemed easy with him driving, but you could tell that he could read
the water in ways we could not—much of it is an extremely narrow deep channel
between reefs that looked like grass; it would be very easy to make a mistake. At one
point he turned the boat sharply to port to round one reef on our port side and avoid
another directly ahead. Just at that point a sailboat was approaching us. Woody radioed to
them to give us room, but sailors don’t use radios. He tried to warn them that they were
heading directly onto a reef, but they were not listening. The sailboat avoided us by
clipping the reef—moral: use your radio!
On the way we saw Who Cares? and her 45-foot sportfishing boat So What? at
anchor just north of Harbour Island. At 1:30pm we arrived at Valentine’s Marina on
Harbour Island. Before leaving Woody sold us bread, carrot cake, and stone crab.
Valentine’s had been rebuilt a few years ago after a hurricane wiped it out. It is a
large marina with some very big boats. On one side of us was Patience, the 75-foot
Marlow that we had seen in Clarencetown. On the other side of us was Copasetic, a 141foot expedition yacht that looked half as tall as its length. Across from our stern was
Ohana, a 153-foot Admiral that we had seen in St. Thomas. As we ate lunch, Inspiration,
a 154-foot Trinity, came in to block our view from the stern.
We had lunch on the aft deck staring at Inspiration‘s starboard side. After lunch
Joan took a walk into the village, while I read and rested. At 6:00pm we met on the bow,
where there was a decent view. While we were there we saw Woody arrived in Little
Woody,; he was on business unrelated to us. Smidgen barked at everything that moved.
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At 7:00pm we went to the aft deck for dinner after which we watched—you
guessed it—another two episodes of Brothers and Sisters.
And so to bed…
At Harbour Island, Eleuthra
On deck at 9:00am to a sunny and warm day at Valentne’s Marina and Resort. At
11:00am Joan and I walked to the office and rented a golf cart for two days. Then we
toured the island.
It was much less busy than at our last visit with the McGlennons in 2005. The
lovely pastel-colored cottages along the waterfront and Dunmore Street were still
attractive and appealing. There seemed to be fewer shops than I remembered, and
restaurants seemed closed or deserted.
We drove to the Pink Sands Hotel and walked down to the Pink Sands Beach,
which was still pink. Joan picked up a brochure and we decided not to stay there—they
have a three-night minimum at $1200 per night for a two-bedroom ocean-view cottage;
the one-bedroom was $700 per night. But it is a very attractive place.
Then we drove down Crown Street, the prime shopping street (both blocks) with
its Piggly Wiggly Food Mart, its hardware store, and its clothing boutique. No, not much
there!
Our next stop was the Rock House, a boutique resort hotel, where we had a nice
lunch at the small pool, in which one of the best female bodies I’ve ever seen was
swimming. It was a very attractive spot.
Finally, at 2:00pm we returned to Myeerah for some R&R in the AC. As we
arrived, Pier Pressure, a 75-foot sportfishing boat, backed in next to us. At 3:15pm we
left on the tender to find a beach so Smidgen could swim. We first tried to go around the
south end of Harbour Island to Pink Sands Beach. But the breaking waves on the Atlantic
side would have kept us from going ashore. So we found an almost-deserted beach on the
inside of Eleuthra’s northernmost point. It was absolutely delightful—warm quiet water,
the snuffling sounds that Smidgen made as she paddled, and the very warm sun combined
to give a feeling of perfect serenity.
By 4:30pm we were back on Myeerah. As we arrived we could see her dwarfed
by the huge boats around her. She could have been their tender! When we arrived Ben
was diving to scrape large barnacles off of the shafts, props, and stabilizer fins.
At 6:00pm we went to the aft deck for dinner. Then it was another two episodes
of B&S.
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And so to bed…
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On deck at 10:00am—a late start. At 11:00am after a breakfast of Woody’s
Johnny cakes, Joan and I left on another golf cart tour. This time we went south on
Queen’s Highway until it ended at South Beach Club, where some of the largest houses
on the beach were located. Then we returned to town and explored the smaller streets.
At 12:30pm we returned to Myeerah for lunch. It was good to get out of the hot,
harsh, sun and into air conditioning. We had a good lunch of tuna steak salad, during
which we watched Inspiration leave. Because Ohana had left yesterday, our view came
back. Tonight we could eat out and see something other than a massive white hull.
At 3:15pm we got into the tender to go for a swim. We first explored the northern
end of Harbour Island for a beach. The best candidate was a beach with a very old faded
sign saying “Private Property-Do Not Land-Curb Your Dog.” Of course, the sign was
meaningless because (a) all beaches in the Bahamas are public, (b) it was very old and
out-of-date, and (c) the message of don’t be here but curb your dog was unacceptably
mixed—it invited you to land so you could curb your dog.
But that beach was a bit rocky, so we went to the south end and swam at
yesterday’s beach. Smidgen paddled happily, then ran up and down the beach with great
enthusiasm. While we were in the water I saw a head pop up about 50 feet away—it was
a Sea Turtle. After that heads began to pop up all over. They stayed in a grassy area,
probably so that predators couldn’t see them, but at one point a small turtle swam into the
sandy shallows so that we could see it clearly. I had no idea that they could swim so fast.
At 4:30pm we were back on Myeerah, where Smidgen was shampooed and
bathed. At 6:00pm we were on the aft deck enjoying our expanded horizon. After dinner
we watched more B&S.
And so to bed…
Harbour Island, Eleuthra to Nassau, New Providence Island
65 nm, 6½ hrs, 10.0 kts
On deck for an 8:30am departure. We met Woody just off the docks and began
the slow winding trip through the Backbone. Instead of going through Spanish Wells we
left Woody off at 10:15pm at Bridge Point on North Eleuthra and proceeded to Nassau on
the outside. The weather was very good.
Our trip was intentionally slow, and extremely comfortable. After a 1:00pm lunch
we watched two episodes of B&S in the hope of finishing it before our return to Boston—
only four episodes left!
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At 3:00pm we arrived at the lighthouse on Nassau Channel’s west end. By
3:30pm we were docked at Hurricane Hole. Party Girl, a 146-foot Christensen, and the
130-foot Hatteras Sacagawea were on the face docks. Joan and Smidgen quickly started
on a walk, while I retired for a nap. She returned to report that Hurricane Hole was in a
state of demolition—the shopping area was being torn down to be replaced by a parking
lot for the nearby Atlantis theme park. Hopefully, the docks will be repaired or
replaced—they are in a sad state.
At 6:00m we were on deck. Soon after we sat down the 110-foot green-hulled
Broward Redemption arrived with a strong current making it difficult to get in. She was
the former Arriva, which we had seen at Simpson Bay in St. Martin in 2004. After dinner
we watched two more episodes of B&S, only one more left..
And so to bed…
In Nassau, New Providence Island
On deck at 9:30am, breakfast at 10:00am. At noon Joan and I started on a walk
over to the Atlantis Marina, where there are large boats and shops. We saw Redemption,
which had just moved to Atlantis from Hurricane Hole; da Bubba, a 100-foot blue-hulled
Hargrave, also a recent Hurricane Hole resident; and Murphy’s Law, a 124-foot Broward
yacht, and several other large boats.
We had lunch at Bimini Roads, a restaurant in the marina’s shopping complex,
then we walked back to the boat. It was very hot, and getting into the boat’s air
conditioning was a blessed relief. Smidgen was happy to see us when we boarded at
2:00pm.
The afternoon was spent working feverishly on R&R. In the late afternoon
Carcharias, a 90-foot Pershing, arrived at the adjacent slip and slammed into the pilings
while docking—I missed all the fun. Over the years we have seen lots of goofs at
Hurricane Hole, often by big boats, probably because of the strong current that runs
between Paradise Island and New Providence Island.
At 6:00pm we sat down for appetizers, then we had an absolutely amazing surf
and turf dinner with Kobe beef; it was the most tender and tasty beef I’ve ever
experienced.
At 8:30pm we started watching There Will Be Blood, a highly rated recent movie
about miners and wildcatters in the early 20 th century.
And so to bed…
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Nassau, New Providence Island to Boston Massachusetts
Our last morning in paradise. On deck at 8:30am. At about 10:30am we met
Morris, our driver who would take us to the Odyssey FBO at the Nassau Airport.
At 11:00am we arrived at the FBO and met the crew of N53FT, an older Citation
II. At 11:30am we took off to the customs check-in at Wilmington NC, where we arrived
at 2:00pm. This first leg was an easy and comfortable flight.
The check-in was simple: Passports? Any Contraband? Thank you and have a
good trip! The plane topped off with fuel and at 2:45pm we were in the air again. We
landed at Logan at 4:45pm. The trip had been 4½ hours of flight time and ¾ hour of
customs time.
At 5:30pm we were home.
Epilogue
This was not a good trip—this was a GREAT trip. Joan and I enjoyed a totally
relaxing time with very good weather and easy seas. We saw some out-of-the-way places,
such as Long Island and Crooked Island, and some very upscale (for the Bahamas)
venues, such as Sampson Cay and Harbour Island. We relaxed thoroughly and enjoyed
our time together. We--and Smidgen--swam, walked a bit on land and beaches, read (not
Smidgen, who rejects education), and rested (Smidgen does very well on this score).
Both the boat and the crew performed admirably. As always, Ben kept everything
clipping along. Meghan’s cooking was outstanding. And Eric kept everything together by
making sure that Ben was assisted, Meghan was supported, and we were well kept.
To top things off, Eric and Meghan became engaged on this trip. Could anything
be more perfect?
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Portsmouth, NH to Portland, ME
July 17 – 20, 2008 1 - 4, 2008
Chef Meghan Perrone
Total Trip
100 miles, 9¼ hours running time, 101.8 kts average speed
370 gallons at 40 gph
Prologue
We have not been on Myeerah since June 13, except for one lunch at the
Wentworth Marina dock. Joan and I have enjoyed a couple of weeks in Annisquam with
Michele and her family, and we decided that during the changing of the guard—Michele
is returning home and both Lara and Rob are moving up to Annisquam—we would take
a long weekend on Myeerah. Fuel prices being high (about $5 per gallon of diesel) we
did not plan to go far.
At 11:00am on Thursday, July 17 we started the drive to Wentworth. At 12:15pm
we arrived in Portsmouth NH, where we and Smidgen had lunch at an outdoor café. At
1:00pm we were at the marina.
At 5:30pm the Gaillards arrived to take us to the White Barn Inn in
Kennebunkport, an hour’s drive away. This is a five-star restaurant,reported to be G.H.W.
Bush’s favorite. The food was outstanding, as was the company—the Gaillards are
always fun to be with.
By 10:30pm we were back at Myeerah. And so to bed…
Day 1 Friday, July 18, 2008
50 nm, 4½ hrs, 11.1 kts
Wentworth-by-the-Sea to Portland, ME
Today is our 44 th anniversary. It is hard to believe that time has assed so quickly.
We have completed two careers, had three children and (almost) ten grandchildren.
We’ve lived in California, Indiana, Massachusetts, and now Florida. We have had four
dogs, working our way down from a Saint Bernard to Smidgen. We’ve owned seven
houses (about to have the eighth). And in spite of some rough periods, we have become
closer every year. It has been a very good life so far! The bestr day of it was the day we
married, because that set everything else on its path.
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Awake at 8:30m and on deck at 9:00am for breakfast. It was cool with a light fog
in the distance. At 10:30am we left the marina and headed north to Portland. Very light
winds made the ride easy, though a ground swell on the starboard bean did create a roll.
The roll was accentuated by a minor hydraulic failure that forced Ben to shut the
stabilzers down.
As we approached Cape Elizabeth we could see a large thunderhead an forks of
lightning. A squall was approaching, and at 2:00pm it hit us with rain and wind, forcing
us to move inside for lunch.
At 3:00pm we arrived at Dimillo’s Marina in a light rain. Near us were Adios, a
Fleming 75, and Saltwind, a 75-foot Marlowe. We are seeing a lot of Marlowes these
days! At 4:30pm Joan, Smidgen and I walked into Portland. Smidgen and I returned at
5:00pm while Joan walked further. At 5:00pm Joan returned as the skies darkened.
Heavy rain soon followed and it stayed for a while.
At 6:30pm we were in the salon for drinks, and by 7:00pm we sat down to dinner
in the dining room. After dinner we watched TV for a while, and at 9:00pm we retired.
And so to bed…
Day 2 Saturday, July 19, 2008
In Portland, ME
Awake at 8:30am and on deck to a gray day. This unsettled weather is supposed
to hang around the region for several days. We spent the morning reading. Before lunch
Joan took her power walk. After a 1:00pm lunch the skies cleared and boats came out on
the dead flat waters of Portland Harbor.
Joan, Smidgen, and I took a walk into the waterfront shopping district (both
blocks) and bought toys and games for the grandchildren. At 3:30pm we were back on
the boat. The sunny skies had become leaden and soon a thunderstorm rushed though,
dumping a load of water. But soon it was clear again.
At 6:30pm Sally Jurgeleit—a very old friend from our Watertown days in the
early 1970s—came on board. She had recently retired from the staff of Maine’s Senator
Susan Collins. We had a great dinner and caught up on family and events.
After Sally left we retired to read.
And so to bed…
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Day 3 Sunday, July 20, 2008
50 nm, 4¾ hrs, 10.5 kts
Portland, ME to Isles of Shoals, NH
On deck at 9:00am to rain and heavy gray skies. Today doesn’t look like one of
those in again-out again days: it is socked in. Have we ever been in Maine during good
weather?
At 11:00am Meerah left DiMillo’s and headed out into fog and occasional rain.
The ride south was very comfortable but very lazy since it was an inside day. Our
original destination was the Isles of Shoals, where we would anchor for the night and
return to Wentworth tomorrow. But the lousy weather led us to go back to Wentworth
instead.
We arrived at Wentworh at 3:45pm. Joan took Smidgen for a walk while I began
The Tale of Edgar Sawtelle, a just-published first novel that has received great reviews. It
seems to deserve it reputation!
At 6:00pm Joan and I went on deck to enjoy drinks, appetizers, cool raw air, and
rain. Eventually we moved inside to dry out. It really has been a bad-hair day! We had a
nice chat with Ben about all sorts of matters. After dinner we retired early to read.
And so to bed…
Epilogue
During the night there were several loud and bright thunderstorms coming
through, with heavy rain. In the morning it was still gray so we had a quick breakfast and
drove back to Annisquam.
Great company, lousy weather!
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Cruising the Maine Coast
August 22 - 28, 2008
Chef Meghan Perrone
Dick Kopcke
Total Trip
1,260 gallons at 40 0 gph
Prologue
Myeerah has not been used much this summer. However, her end-of-summer
schedule has been busy. Two weekends ago Lara and Ben took two of Ben’s friends for a
long weekend at Wentworth, the Isles of Shoals, and Portland, ME. Last weekend Rob,
Vctoria and the children spent a long weekend in Ipswich Bay and at Wentworth.
This trip is only my second of the summer. Dick Kopcke, my only guest, and I
have no specific itinerary, though I would like to get up to Penobscot Bay.
At 2:00pm on August 22 I left Annisquam in Drag On, bound for Wentworth
Marina 26 miles north. It was sunny and reasonably calm, with a slight following sea. By
3:00pm I had arrived after an easy ride. Dick was already at the boat: he and Charlotte
had spent the night at Wentworth-By-The-Sea.
Soon after arriving, Dick and I took Drag On around the back channel into the
Piscataqua Rver, and out to the Isles of Shoals for a quick visit. The winds had come up
and it was a pretty bouncy ride, but we survived. At 5:00pm we were back on Myeerah.
At 6:00pm we met on the aft deck. It had turned chilly, so we had sweaters. But it
was still sunny. We had a great dinner, lots of wine and Dick’s vintge port, and great
conversation.
And so to bed…
74 nm, 7 hrs, 10.6 kts
Wentworth-By-Se, New Castle, NH to East Boothbay, the Damariscotta River, ME
On deck at 8:30am to fnd that Dick had been up since 6:00am. It was sunny,
warm, and very calm. At 9:45am, after breakfast, Dick and I slipped the bonds of earth in
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Drag On, and followed Myeerah out of the marina. We reconnected well outside the
harbor, in a “dead zone” past the chronic swells that come into the breakwater.
The ride to the Damariscotta Rver was uneventful. The wind was behind us so we
had a following sea. The air was chilly—it IS Maine! Reading, interlarded with
discussions of economics and politics, kept us from napping.
At 4:45pm we arrived at a nice anchorage across from South Bristol and a bit
west of Christmas Cove. Soon after our anchor had set a very nice Mainer came out in his
boat and offered his empty mooring, suitable for 100-footers. We thanked him, but we
stayed where we had dropped the anchor since it had set so well.
Dick and I hopped into Drag On for a tour of the area. We visited Christmas
Cove, the Hodgdon Boat Yard at East Boothbay, and South Bristol, where The Gut cuts
through to the Johns River. By 5:30pm we were back on Myeerah.
At 7:30pm we went to the swim platform where Dick and I donned our Russian
navy hats. Ben had set up the signal cannon, and at 7:33pm we woke the entire county
with a very satisfying BOOOOOM!
After a very good Asian Pork dinner, I retired early—at about 8:30pm. Dick
stayed up and read till 11:00pm.
And so to bed…
Day 2: Sunday, August 24
44 nm, 4¾ hrs, 9.3 kts
East Boothbay, Damariscotta River to Pulpit Harbor, North Haven Island
On deck at 8:45am. The sky was gray and it was pretty cool. Rain had fallen in
the night. Dick and Ben were off touring in Drag On. They soon returned with the
Sunday New York Times—a godsend.
Just as breakfast ended, deep fog rolled up the river. Soon we could barely see the
shore about 100 yards away. It IS Maine!
At 10:00am we left in deep fog. Two hours later, as we passed Monhegan Island,
the fog began lifting and eventually the sun came out, though it remained quite cool.
At 2:45pm we arrived at Pulpit Harbor. There was a fair amount of room for us,
so we rode in, dropped anchor and kicked back. At about 4:00pm Dick and I left in Drag
On for a tour around North Haven Island. We did a counter-clockwise trip—south to the
Fox Island Thorofare between North Haven and Vinylhaven Islands, east to East
Penobscout Bay, then up and around the northern tip of Northaven Island. It was sunny
but chilly. The trip was very pretty, with views of large summer houses on high ledges
surrounded by abundant pine trees.
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At 5:00pm we returned to Pulpit Harbor, where we encountered two guys in a
dinghy whose engine had conked out. We towed them the short distance to 3 Cats, their
sailboat, then we returned to Myeerah.
At 6:00pm we gathered on the aft deck. The wind had died down and it felt
warmer. We watched the sun set, and at 7:31pm we gave it a BOOOOM! with the signal
cannon. After dinner we watched some of the Olympics closing ceremony (very flashy in
a Chinese automoton sort of style), then the last episode of the first season of The Sarah
Connor Chronicles: everyone died to the mournful sound of a Johnny Cash dirge. The
second season begins in two weeks.
And so to bed…
Day 3: Monday, August 25
17 nm, 2 hrs, 8.5 kts
Pulpit Harbor, Northaven Island to Castine, ME
On deck at 8:45am. There was heavy fog and a raw feel in the air. Ben and Dick
were off in Drag On visiting the town of North Haven. At about 9:30am they appeared
out of the fog and reported that North Haven was a dump and no newspapers could be
found.
At 11:15am we left Pulpit Harbor. The fog had partially lifted and Penobscot Bay
was like glass. As we headed north we encountered another fog bank, but at 1:00pm we
came out of it at the entrance to Castine’s Bagaduce River. By 1:15pm we were anchored
deep in Smith Cove, where it was warmer and sunny.
At 2:30pm, after lunch, Eric, Meghan, Dick and I (and three bags of trash) left in
Drag On for Castine’s town dock. We arrived at 2:45pm and agreed to reconvene at
3:30pm. Dick and I walked up Main Street’s long hill, then I returned to the boat while
Dick walked farther. At 3:30pm, as agreed, we met at the boat and left the dock. After a
short, and fast, exploratory ride up the Bagaduce River, we returned to Myeerah at
4:00pm, just before a rain squall came through. It passed quickly and the sunny calm
returned.
At 5:45pm I took Drag On to pick up the Curtins, their daughter Maggie, and her
husband Peter, and the three grandchildren (Clark, Carter, and Colton) at the town dock.
They were—as one would expect—on time, and at 6:00pm we started the trip back to
Myeerah, arriving at 6:15pm. Dinner was set for the aft deck, but soon a strong wind
blew in and we reset the venue for the dining area.
We had a wonderful evening. Dick and Jack hit it off talking about economic
policy, the three grandchildren loved exploring the nooks and crannies of Myeerah, and I
enjoyed talking with them all.
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At 7:29pm, after salad, we had the sunset ritual, particularly enjoyed by the
children. With each kid wearing a new Myeerah cap, and me wearing my Russian naval
officers hat, we recognized sunset with our BOOOOOM!
At 9:30pm, after a marvelous dinner of lamb steaks, Ben took the Curtin family
back to Castine. A brisk wind had come up and the mill pond had become a bit frothy,
but they all made a safe return. Dick and I stayed up for a while talking about economic
matters, but at 10:15pm we called it a night.
Ad so to bed…
Day 4: Tuesday, August 26
53 nm, 5 hrs, 10.6 kts
Castine, ME to Hurricane Sound, Vinylhaven Island, ME
On deck at 8:15am to sunny skies and 15-20 knot wind. Dick and Ben were in
Castine, but returned without newspapers—they don’t come in until 10:00am.
At 9:15am we started on our way out of Smith Cove, then we headed north to the
Penobscot River for a trip to Bangor. Once we entered the Penobscot River we
encountered a strong head current, so we only went as far as Bucksport—about ½ way to
Bangor. At 11:00am, after going under the new 400-foot bridge and passing Fort Knox,
we turned around. We had been followed all the way by a small Boston Whaler, whose
pilot informed us that he would trade his boat for Drag On and throw in a few lobsters as
well. He shared with us his pride in the new bridge, which, he said, had the tallest
observation tower of any U.S. bridge. All of this was said in an authentic Maine accent.
After turning at Bucksport we almost planed down the river, running at 13 knots
at only 1200RPM. At 2:15pm we reached the southern end of Vinylhaven Island and
entered Hurricane Sound. This is a Roque Island-like collection of small islands with a
large protected bowl of water. As we dropped the anchor between Leadbetter Island and
Vinylhaven Island we saw a drawback: very large horseflies began to arrive—Ben calls
them the “state bird.”
At 3:30pm Dick, Ben, and I started a tour of the area. Our first destination was
Hurrcane Island at the south end of Hurricane Sound. This has an Outward Bound camp
with a number of large buildings. It is rimmed with large cut granite blocks, the residue
from its years as a quarry for granite in major public buildings, including New York
City’s Metropolitan Art Museum.
Next we crossed the Sound to Old Harbor, a real fishing village at the north end
of The Reach. Just around the corner at the south end of The Reach is the town of
Vinylhaven.
Finally, we headed back toward Myeerah and investigated a cove just east of
Hurricane Sound.
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At 4:30pm we returned to Myeerah.After some R&R we sat on the aft deck
marveling at the pristine wilderness around us. We had dinner and watched a DVD of
Snatch, a very clever British movie with Brad Pitt as a conniving gypsy (is there any
other kind?)
And so to bed…
Day 5: Wednesday, August 27
72 nm, 7¾ hrs, 9.3 kts
Hurricane Sound, Vinylhaven Island, ME to Portland, ME
On deck at 8:30am to sunny skies and light wind. The islands of Hurricane Sound
glistened. What a spot! Its magnificence reminds me of the islands in Washington’s
Straits of Juan De Fuca, or in Alaska—low ledges populated with tall pine trees.
At 9:15am Myeerah started its travel toward Portland. The water was extremely
calm as we headed westward. At 12:00am we passed Monhegan Island. The only surprise
was that flies had congregated on the aft deck, many with their little noses pressed to the
glass. We could hear faint cries of “Let us in!”
At 4:30pm we arrived at Portland. After 30 minutes we were at anchor between
Clapboard Island and the town of Falmouth-Foreside, ME. It was dead calm, sunny—and
warm, for the first time in days. Ths is the spot we had anchored at during last year’s
Naples Yacht Club Cruise, when the owner of ½ the island, serving as the U.S.
Ambassador to Portugal, invited us to dinner at his magnificent restored summer house.
Dick and I took Drag On for a spin, visiting the Portland waterfront and the
diamond-shaped fort in the middle of Portland Harbor. At 6:30pm we were back on
Myeerah to enjoy drinks, sunset, and dinner. We discussed important matters—careers,
graduate education at Harvard, professors that we had known and loved, and the state of
the profession we had chosen.
At 9:45pm we called it a night. And so to bed…
Day 6: Thursday, August 28
47 nm, 5 hrs, 9.4 kts
Clapboard Island, Falmouth-Foreside, ME to Wentworth-By-The-Sea, New Castle, NH
On deck at 8:15am to sunny skies and very light wind. Dick and Ben were in
Portland getting fuel papers, and a looksee. At 9:00am they returned. Dick, having
explored the town center, pronounced it uninteresting. He did, however, remark on the
condom store nestled next to a bar.
After a breakfast of miniature blueberry pancakes and chicken apple sausages, we
lifted the anchor and departed. The ride south was very easy—we have had quite a bit of
luck on the weather on this trip. At 3:15pm Myeerah settled into her nest at Wentworth.
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Atfter dinner Dick and I started watching the last night of the Democratic
National Convention in Denver. It was losts of canned speeches given in a football
stadium with 75,000+ people—very Busby Berkeley, and not very nteresting. So we
opted to retire early.
And so to bed…
Epilogue
This was a good trip in terms of weather, company, and destination. We anchored
each evening, often in breathtakingly beautiful spots. While it was unusually cool for late
summer, that didn’t present much of a problem. All in all, it was very relaxing!!!!
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Cruising Long Island Sound with the Naples Yacht Club
September 6 - 13, 2008
Chef Meghan Perrone
Bill and Joyce O’Meara
Penny Love
Total Trip
670 gallons at 40 0 gph
Prologue
This is the third annual NYC cruise in the northeast, organized by John and Carol
Benning. The plan was for us all to meet in Newport on Friday, September 5, then to take
Myeerah to the first venue—Sag Harbor on Long Island—on the morning of the sixth.
Man plans, God laughs! Hurricane Hanna hit the east coast at North Carolina and
was forecast to create 40-knot winds and ten foot seas in Long Island Sound. So we
informed our guests that we would be skipping Sag Harbor. Instead we would stay in
Newport until the weather cleared.
Penny Love and the Gaillards decided to drive to Sag Harbor and then meet us in
Essex, CT. The O’Mearas arrived at Myeerah at about 4:30pm. It was warm and very
sunny. We had a great dinner and went to bed early.
56 nm, 5 hrs, 11.2 kts
Newport, RI to Sag Harbo,r NY
On deck at 9:00am. NOAA weather reports for today and tomorrow are much
improved—instead of seven-foot seas today there will be five-footers; three-footers
replace the ten-footers tomorrow. But tonight is supposed to be horrible, with Hanna’s
remains passing directy overhead.
So we decided to go to Sag Harbor in spite of a thick fog. At 10:00am we left the
Newport Shipyard. Once outside Newport Neck we ecountered sizable ground swells, but
eventually these moderated as we came into Long Island’s lee. Everyone but me had
taken medicatios and went int a loooong nap to while away the hours.
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On the way we found tht a slip had becom available and at 3:00pm we were
docked at the Sag Harbor Yacht Club. Ben skillfully backed our 23-foot beam into a 25foot wide slip. As soon as we stopped the engines, Hanna’s first heavy rains arrived.
At 5:00pm we climbed into a van for a ride to Patty and George Krause’s home in
Southhampton; Patt is Lady Patricia of Adamtown, Ireland—a title bought for her by
friends on her 60 th birthday.. The 40-minute drive was through beautiful country with
vineyards, large horse farms, beautiful fields, and lush grass everywhere. We arrived at
5:40pm to a gorgeous estate on the ocean. It had a perfectly manicured grass tennis court,
an absolutely gorgeous late 19th century house—once a boarding house and bought from
Ann Ford a decade ago--that had been completely renovated, a large pool, and over three
acres of land with dunes and beach.
We enjoyed great company, excellent food, music—and Hanna’s wind and rain.
At 9:00pm we climbed back on to the van and returned to Sag Harbor. Ben was waiting
for us in foul weather gear—he had been waiting for 1½ hours! We walked to Myeerah,
talked for a while, and retired at 10:30pm with rain still falling heavily..
And so to bed…
Day 2: Sunday, September 7
In Sag Harbor, NY
On deck at 9:00am after a great night’s sleep—it must have been the Gran
Marnier! After a very windy and wet night, we had a morning of sun and warmth. At
10:00am, just as we and the O’Mearas were finishing breakfast, the rest of our party
arrived: the Gaillards and Penny Love.
At 11:00am the ladies went off to the Krauses house. Bill and Charlie went for a
walk in Sag Harbor, returing at noon to report that it was pretty uninteresting, except for
the American Hotel.
At :00pm the New England Patriots-Kansas City Chiefs game began—poorly for
us: Tom Brady got a knee injury and the Patriots were frequently fumbling. But the Pats
won 17-10 in a cliffhanger—they held the Chiefs from scoring in the last minute by
stopping them for four downs straight on the Pats eight-yard line!
The ladies returned at about 3:00pm reporting great success. They had gone to the
Krauses and inspected the gardens, then they went to the home of one of Patty’s
friends—an ancient barn brought over from England and redone to a tee. There they had
mimosas, after which they had lunch in Southhampton and shopped. Each of them bought
a Brahmin handbag, made by a company run by Bill and Joan Martin (who are with us on
this cruise).
At 4:00pm Joan and I retired to rest, and at 6:00pm we met everyone on deck. It
was a perfect evening, sunny and comfortably warm. As we sat and talked, a 106-foot
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Burger named Ingot arrived next to us. The crew got off with a teacup poodle and we
chatted with them. It turned out that the captain and mate were a couple whom we had
interviewed fr a job several years ago. They were great, but the timing didn’t work out.
We had a great dinner, and retired.
And so to bed…
Day 3: Monday, September 8
26 nm, 2¾ hrs, 9.5 kts
Sag Harbor, NY to Essex, CT
On deck at 8:30am. It was suny, warm, and low wind. At 10:5am we left the Sag
Harbor Yacht Club and enjoyed an easy, leisurely ride across Long Island Sound.
We arrived at Essex Island Marina at 1:00pm and quickly sat down for lunch. At
2:00pm 17 of us gathered to catch the very short ferry hop to the mainland, where 13
piled on to a comfortable small bus and four got into the Gaillrd’s car. Our destination
was the Gillete Castle at East Haddam, CT. Joan and I had been there in September of
2005, and we thought it would be a great side trip.
The ride to the Castle was beautiful, especially because it was such a
perfect day. The very idiosyncratic castle had not changed. Situated on a hill called the
“Seventh Sister,” built of stone in a primitive style, construction of the castle was started
in 1914 and ended in 1919. The owner, William Hooker Gillette, was a train buff who
also built a three-mile miniature train route that he called “The Seventh Sister Shortline.”
Among its passengers was Albert Einstein! Gillette was an actor, director and playwright
whose primary claim to fame was that he played the original Sherlock Holmes. He died
in 1937 and in 1943 the state of Connecticut bought his 184 acres for $30,000 and
converted it to a state park. The house is a three-story, 14,000 square foot structure,
renovated in 1999-2002 at a cost of $11.5 million cost.
It is well worth seeing, Made of fieldsone in a medieval Macbeth-like form, its
rooms are all of wood, even the window locks and door latches. The walls are covered in
fabric, and the doors are roughly, but intricately, carved. It overlooks the Connecticut
River and has a breathtaking view. Unfortunately, there were no guides so the historical
side of the experience was missing. Even so, it was great fun.
By 4:30pm we were back at the marina ready for a rest before our 6:30pm dinner
at the Griswold Inn in Essex. At 6:00pm we gathered for a quick drink, and at 6:30pm we
hoped onto the ferry for the 50-yard hop to Essex.
The Griswold Inn, built in 1776, was very nice, and the food was excellent. There
was one drawback—we were packed into an ancient and very lovely room with
hardwood floors and walls, and the noise was deafening. Te evn of us were at one table,
so we could keep together.
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At 9:30pm we returned to the boat while others gathered in the Griswold’s bar for
Monday night sing-along.
And so to bed…
Day 4: Tuesday, September 9
28 nm, 3 hrs, 9.3 kts
Essex, CT to Fisher’s Island, CT
On deck late, at 9:15am. In stark contrast to yesterday, the sky was very gray, it
was cool, and severe thunderstorms were forecast. We all had a late breakfast, after
which a group walked to the Connecticut River Historical Museum in Essex.
At noon we left the marina and headed up the river. Our plan was to go about
eight miles to the swing bridge at East Haddam, then return down-river and head to
Fisher’s Island. But after about 15 minutes a thunderstorm came through, heavy rain
arrived, and visibility became limited. So we turned around early. Even so, the houses
along the river made the short side trip worthwhile.
The ride to Fisher’s Island was fine because the seas were on our quarter. It
remained threatening, but no storms caught us. At 3:00pm we docked next to La Dolce
Vita in a very light rain. The ladies decided to play bridge. I read and napped.
At 6:30pm we all walked across the dock for cocktails and supper on La Dolce
Vita. It was a great evening. At 9:00pm we were back on Myeerah.
And so to bed…
Day 5: Wednesdy, September 10
8 nm, 1 hrs, 8.0 kts
Fisher’s Island, CT to Mystic, CT
On deck at 9:00am. Joan and others had already walked through the “town” of
Fisher’s Island. It was a bright sky, near-cloudless, but very cool and windy.
At 10:00am we departed for Mystic, CT. The other boats would go to Stonington
where we planned to catch up with them in the afternoon. The ride to Noank, CT,
entrance to the Mystic River, was quick and the trip up the river was very pretty. We
reached the swing bridge at 10:40am, just at its hourly opening, and at 11:00am we
glided into our dock at the Mystic Seaport Museum.
A committee of the whole was formed and we decided to forego Stonington and
stay at the Museum. Then we started a walking tour of the Museum. The high point for
me was the wonderful collection of Butterworth nautical paintings. At 1:30pm we had
lunch at the Seaport Inne Restaurant and Pub, just off of the museum grounds. By
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2:30pm we were back on Myeerah. On the way we met many of the other NYC cruisers,
who had rented a van to come to the Museum.
The ladies decided to walk into Mystic to inspect the art galleries. Ben took them
in the tender. Upon returning they reported little shopping was accomplished. At 6:00pm
I took the tender northward to the end of Mystic River; the O’Mearas and Gaillards
joined me. It was high tide, so we did not run aground as I had in the past. We went to
what had been a beat-up marina where boats under repair were docked: it had been
dismantled and was now a dock for a new property.
We returned at 6:45pm and went to the salon for drinks: outside it was a bit chilly
and mosquitos had arrived. At 7:30pm we sat down for dinner in the dining area. The
conversation turned to book, movies and bad jokes, and to past lives. It was great
conversation. By 10:00pm we had retired to prepare for another day.
And so to bed…
Day 6: Thursday, September 11
24 nm, 2¾ hrs, 8.7 kts
Mystic, CT to Block Island, RI
On deck at 8:30am, just as everyone else departed for a walk to the Mystic
Aquarium. It was sunny and cool, with low wind. I stayed behind to read.
At 11:25am the party returned and we quickly left the dock to catch the 11:40am
opening of the Mystic River Bridge. We sat on the bow for the trip downriver, and at
noon we were in Long Island Sound, heading toward Block Island.
We arrived at Great Salt Pond at 2:00pm and were docked at Champlin’s at
2:15pm. The dockmaster was an unhelpful jerk, but we got over it. After a walk around
the area, everyone began to prepare for a 6:30pm cocktail party-light supper on Myeerah.
The party went very well. A total of 27 people were wined and dined. The crew
had everything immaculate, and Meghan did a great job preparing excellent hors
d’ouevres and several entrees.
At about 9:30pm the group began to disband. We sat and talked for a while,
during which Penny told a hilarious joke about Ruby and Begonia.
And so to bed…
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Day 7: Friday, September 12
24 nm, 2¼ hrs, 10.7 kts
Block Island, RI to Newport, RI
On deck late, at 8:30am. It was cool and gray. At 10:00am, after breakfast, we
walked to the parking lot to meet John, our taxi driver who would give us a guided tour
of the island. For the next 1½ hours we were treated to a very thorough delivery of the
history, topography, and folklore of Block Island, given in an authentic Rhode Island
accent.
At 11:30am we returned to Myeerah. Ben had her engines running, and at
11:45am we left Champlin’s, just after the arrival of the Montauk ferry, which dumped a
lot of people onto the island.
The ride to Newport was fine, with a bit of seas on our starboard beam. We
arrived at Goat Island Marina at 2:00pm. Ben, Joan, and the Gaillards walked over the
Goat Island Bridge and got our cars at the Newport Shipyard.
At 5:45pm we all drove to the New York Yacht Club on the other side of the
harbor for the penultimate dinner, arranged by Joe Fogg. Entry into the club is made
difficult by the rarified atmosphere which impedes breathing. It was raining lightly,
which dimmed the view of the harbor from the manor house that had become the New
York Yacht Club iabout 15 years ago.
The meal folloing cocktails on the patio was excellent. By 10:00pm we were back
on Myeerah watching 20/20s replay of Charles Gibb’s interview of Sarah Palin, John
McCain’s VP choice.
And so to bed…
Epilogue
Early on Saturday morning our little band disbanded. The last evening would be
in Edgartown, where Penny would host a cocktail party and the NYC cruisers in
attendance would dine at the Edgartown Yacht Club. To get there, they had to drive to
Woods Hole to catch the ferry. The rest of the group would take their boats.
Joan and I drove back to Boston. We were sad to miss the final festivities, but
responsibilities required our return.
This was a great cruise, the best of the three NYC Northeast cruises. Our group of
seven might have been picked in heaven—we had a super time together! It was fun to get
to know the O’Mearas and Penny Love.
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The crew was magnificent. They have had a very busy month, with two weeklong trips and two long weekends. They have been energetic and enthusiastic.Ben has
been everywhere, Meghan and Eric have kept the group very happy, and Meghan’s meals
have been great! And to top it off, they have been very cheerful.
Myeerah will now head down to Fort Lauderdale for a yard period, then to
Naples.
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January 12 – 17, 2009
Chef Meghan Perrone
Total Trip
1,265 gallons at 55 0 gph
Prologue
Except for two lunch cruises with family, and a New Year’s Eve trip with NYC
members to watch the fireworks off Naples Pier, we have not used Myeerah since last
September. This trip is my 66th birthday present (I suppose I have to have a birthday to
get my First Mate on the boat!)
We are going up the West Coast to St. Petersburg, where we will see Joan’s sister,
Mary. Our first stop is in Venice, FL, where we stay for two nights. Then to St. Pete for
two nights. On the way back we will stop for a night at Boca Grande.
Naples to Venice, FL
81 nm, 6½ hrs, 12.5 kts
We arrived at Myeerah at 10:00am, just as a morning fog was burning off. The
night before we had enjoyed a party at the NYC, where we had watched a gorgeous huge
orange moon rise over Myeerah.
It was sunny, warm, and windless—a perfect day. By 10:40pm we had exited
Gordon Pass and were steaming north. Diesel fuel prices were back town to $2.50 per
gallon (from a peak of $4.75 per gallon a few months ago) so we put the pedal to the
medal and cruised at 12-13 knots on a very calm sea.
At 4:00pm we approached the channel into Venice, and at 4:30pm we were
docked at the Crow’s Nest Marina’s face dock. Clouds were coming in on a low-pressure
band, but it was humid and about 75 degrees when Joan, Smidgen, and I took a walk. At
5:00pm Smidgen and I returned to the boat while Joan walked further.
I retired to our stateroom to read. My new book is Shadow Country, Peter
Mathiesson’s single-volume rewrite of his three-volume story of the killing of Mr.
Watson (The Killing of Mr. Watson, Lost Man’s River, and Bone by Bone). So far I find
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the story much less compelling than the original; it is written in a more passive voice with
less dialogue, as if the narrators were distant observers rather than participants.
Joan returned at 5:30pm and at 6:00pm we went to the aft deck for drinks,
appetizers, and dinner. At 8:00pm I sat in the salon watching the second night of the new
season of 24. Joan returned phone calls (Lara and Alice Hollingsworth), passing up the
chance to watch Jack Bauer save the world again. Jack was still working at it at 10:00pm,
when the episode ended.
And so to bed…
Day 2: Tuesday, January 13, 2009
In Venice, FL
Awake at 8:15am and on deck at 8:30am. It was cooler and cloudier. We had
breakfast (scrambled eggs with great sausages especially ordered by Meghan), then we
sat around reading for a while.
Ben had rented a car and at 11:00am Joan and I set off for a tour of Venice and
Sarasota. Venice retains some of the old Florida feel—small houses, older
condominiums, and neatly-kept tree-lined streets. We drove through its business district
and over the bridge to the Route 41 Bypass, then we headed north to Sarasota.
On arriving in Sarasota we headed out over long bridges to the keys in the harbor
(Bird Key, St. Aram’s Key). At St. Aram’s Key we stopped for lunch in a tourist-heavy
area. As we ate a strange lunch (nothing was quite what we thought it would be) rain
began to fall. It became heavier so we decided to return to the boat.
On the return we experienced some strong squalls with near-white-out conditions
and winds gusting to perhaps 50 knots. The visibility on the highway was quite limited as
torrential rains fell.
At 3:30pm we were back on Myeerah. Wind gusts were high but not as bad as
they had been further north, but it was clearly an inside-day from then on. So we sat in
the salon and read until 5:30pm, when Joan took Smidgen for a walk.
At 6:00pm, as the wind howled outside, we watched the news and then had
dinner. I had looked forward to a PBS show, The Ascent of Money, which started at
9:00pm. But within 15 minutes I gave up on it—it was one of those flashy productions
with short substance.
And so to bed…
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Day 3: Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Venice, FL to St. Petersburg, FL
58 nm, 4½ hrs, 12.9 kts
On deck by 9:15am. It was sunny but very cold, about 50 degrees. We had
breakfast inside, and at 10:00am Myeerah headed out of the Venice Inlet.
The ride north was pretty good because the wind was offshore, though swells
from last night’s low were coming from the west. At 2:30pm we arrived at St.
Petersburg’s Renaissance Vinoy Resort Marina, newly rebuilt after a 2006 hurricane had
destroyed it. This time the docks are built to last!
Joan walked with Smidgen (and then more after returning her to the boat) while I
read and computed. At 6:00pm we went to the salon to greet Joan’s sister, Mary, and her
husband, Steve Paul; they have a condo in a building just behind The Vinoy. We sat in
the salon for drinks and hors d’ oeuvres, then sat for dinner at 7:00pm. We had Beef
Wellington, and lots of good conversation, and at 9:45pm the Pauls departed.
And so to bed…
Day 4: Thursday, January 15, 2009
In St. Petersburg, FL
On deck at 8:30am. The sky was gray and it was VERY cold, perhaps in the 40s.
Smidgen snuggled close, more for warmth than out of affection. We had breakfast in the
salon.
At 11:30am we met Mary at the parking lot and went on a tour of The Old North
residential area. St. Petersburg is a lovely town with a Florida feel. We saw very nice
houses, some large, but no megahouses.
We then went to the Museum of Fine Arts on the waterfront a short walk from
The Vinoy. After a walk-through of the museum we had a good lunch at the café with a
great view of Myeerah. Mary seemed to know everyone—she is a meeter and greeter!
After lunch Mary drove me home and she and Joan headed off for a shopping trip.
At 4:30pm Joan returned to the boat. It was still gray and cold, but her presence warmed
the boat.
We watched the news report of a US Airways plane that had gone down on the
Hudson River after hitting geese while taking off. Everyone was rescued, but the news
went on and on.
At 5:30pm Joan and Smidgen headed out for a freezing walk. By 6:00pm they had
returned, dripping as they defrosted. At 6:30pm Joan ad I sat for dinner—grouper with
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corn salsa plus banana split. After dinner we watched George W. Bush’s farewell
address.
At 9:00pm Joan watched Grey’s Anatomy while I went below to read. It had been
a very relaxing day.
And so to bed…
St. Petersburg, FL to Boca Grande, FL
91 nm, 7 hrs, 13.0 kts
On deck by 9:00am. Today it is between VERY cold and VERY VERY cold,
though it is sunny. We finally turned the heat on—not a simple task.
Our plan to stay at the Nicholas dock in Boca Grande has been scrapped. The
northeast wind has pushed the water out of the harbor, making passage impossible.
Instead we will go to Boca Grande Pass and anchor off of Useppa Island.
At 10:00 am we left the Vinoy Marina. This is the third time we have been in St.
Pete, and it has been bad weather each time: In 2005 the NYC cruise encountered rain,
often torrential; in 2006 a guy trip for golf had very cold weather; and now it has been
extremely cold. A pattern has emerged…
The seas were sloppy as we headed south, but they were on our stern so it was
comfortable. At 4:30pm we entered Boca Grande Pass, and by 5:00pm we were at anchor
between Useppa and Cabbage Key.
Day 6: Saturday, January 17, 2009
Useppa Island, FL to Naples, FL
60 nm, 5 hrs, 12.0 kts
At 7:00am the engines fired up for an early departure. By 7:15am we were
heading out of Boca Grande Pass. The forecast had been for lighter winds, but they were
blowing at about 5 knots. Fortunately it was a northeast wind so it would be on our port
quarter as we headed to Naples. It was 40 degrees (Brrrrr!!).
Once we cleared Sanibel the fetch increased and the beam sea got worse. But as
we approached Naples we got in the lee and it was more comfortable. At 12:15pm we
arrived at the Naples Yacht Club. My birthday trip was over.
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Epilogue
It was great to be back on Myeerah, to share a few days with Joan, and to get
away from the near-nonstop parting of Naples. But the cold weather, combined with
heavy rain on our day in Venice, put a damper on the trip.
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Chef Meghan Perrone
Passengers Peter Fortun3
Jon Christensen
Fran Engelhart
Bob Wilson
Total Trip
Prologue
Joan is at home with Alice Hollingsworth visiting, so I arranged a fishing trip
with three good friends from the Naples Yacht Club. It is the first trip since Joan and I
went to St. Petersburg. Myeerah has not been busy in these difficult economic times!
60 nm, 5 hrs, 12.0 kts
At 9:30am I drove T/T Myeerah to the Naples Yacht Club to meet my guests on
Myeerah. Jon, Bob, and Fran had already arrived. It was sunny with a brisk easterly wind,
which would be offshore once we exited Gordon Pass.
At 10:00am we left Naples; by 10:30am we had exited Gordon Pass. The ride
northward was comfortable, as predicted. At 2:30pm we reached Boca Grande Pass, and
by 2:45pm we were off of Boca Grande harbor. T/T Myeerah disconnected and went into
the harbor to await Myeerah. By 3:00pm we were nestled together next to Hilarium.
After such strenuous effort we kicked back for a while. At 5:00pm we hopped
onto T/T Myeerah and started an hour-long journey through Boca Grande’s waterways.
From this view Boca Grande is much more populated than one would guess.
At 6:00pm we returned to Myeerah, and at 6:30pm we went to the sundeck for
drinks and appetizers. As the sun fell it became very cool, and the brisk east wind began
to make the sundeck uncomfortable. So at 7:15pm we went to the aft deck, where dinner
was soon served.
At 9:30pm, after a hearty dinner and too many drinks, we retired. And so to bed…
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In Boca Grande, FL
Awake at 7:45am and on deck at 8:00am. After a breakfast of Eggs Benedict we
walked over to the marina to greet Jimmy, our fishing guide. Jimmy hadn’t opened his
eyes for weeks, and was clearly dysfunctional. His boat, Julie Jean, was an absolute
disaster—it showed no signs of maintenance since it was built in 1787. The same was
true of Jimmy.
Jimmy hopped up to the tuna tower and we left the marina at 9:00am. His plan
was to fish for tripletails. These fish are found near the surface at stone crap trap buoys,
where they spend the day eating algae off the anchor lines. According to Jimmy, they eat
like pigs and all you have to do is cast a line with live shrimp next to the buoy. The fish
will attack almost instantly.
So we left Boca Grande Pass and headed northward at a slow speed, weaving by
the crab buoys as we went. After two hours we saw only two buoys with fish. Well,
Jimmy said there were fish but all we saw were blobs that could easily have been
seaweed. The fish did not bite even when a shrimp was cast in front of it, supporting
some suspicion that Jimmy was pulling our leash; either (a) the tripletail does not eat like
a pig, or (b) Jimmy could not tell the difference between a fish and seaweed.
On our return trip, still weaving through crab buoys, we encountered our third
“fish,” which turned out to be a black plastic glove that had been carefully attached to the
line below the buoy. We now got the picture—Jimmy or his friends had tied gloves to
buoys so that paying customers would believe that the blobs were fish! No wonder the
“fish” didn’t bite.
But then we encountered two buoys with actual fish—they moved! But still, no
bites—not even a whiff of a nibble. So we decided to return to Myeerah. On the way
Jimmy lost steering twice, each time the result of a worn part in the steering system that
disengaged the tiller from the rudder. But the assistant had it fixed quickly, having done
this many times. It is so much better to have an assistant effect temporary repairs than to
do actual maintenance!!!
At 2:00pm we were back at the marina. Jimmy’s eyes were still not open—but
ours were! After lunch on Myeerah we all retired to nap and read. It had been an
interesting morning, and we had returned alive.
Doug Coe, Captain of Hilarium, told us later that Jimmy was truly odd, but a
great fisherman. Last year he had taken Julie Jean to Cozumel, Mexico, to enter a fishing
contest. The other boats were well equipped, well manned, and powerful. Not only did
Jimmy make it to Cozumel (and back), but he won the tournament, taking home a new
pickup truck and a $100,000 cash prize. Of course, none of that went to Julie Jean.
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At 6:00pm we met on the aft deck. Stories were told until 7:00pm, when we
wandered over to the Eagle Grill for dinner. At 9:00pm, after a very good meal, we
returned to the boat.
And so to bed…
In Boca Grande, FL
Awake at 7:30pm and on deck by 8:00am. It was a sunny day, warm but a bit
cooler than yesterday. At 9:00am, after a blueberry pancake breakfast, we joined Joe
Crook on his shallow-draft boat and headed south to the yacht anchorage between Caya
Costa and Useppa Island.
For two hours we fished with success: five trout, some puffers, a ladyfish, and a
catfish. The trout were kept for dinner. Then we moved to the outer coast of Gasparilla
Island and fished for grouper and snapper. This was less successful—three grouper, one a
three-pounder—but they all had to be released because no takes are allowed in February
and March.
By 12:30pm we were out of gas, as Jon put it, and Joe brought us back to the
marina. He filleted the trout and we went to Myeerah for lunch.
At 2:30pm we—and Ben—hopped onto T/T Myeerah and headed to our morning
fishing spot. The wind had come up, so casting was a bit more complicated. But by
4:30pm we found that the fish had taken more shrimp than vice-versa—several puffers
had been caught and released, but dozens of shrimp were lost and never returned.
By 5:00pm we were back at Myeerah. And, after some R&R, at 6:15pm we met
on the aft deck for drinks and dinner. It was a delightful evening, with trout soup and
ribeye steak, and with many jokes and observations made and enjoyed. At 8:30pm we
disbanded.
And so to bed…
In Boca Grande, FL
Awake at 8:00am and on deck by 8:30am. It was sunny with light wind, but the
forecast was for increasing wind, clouds, and rain. And the forecast was accurate—soon
clouds came in, wind increased, and rain began to fall.
So we read the paper, talked, and—at 1:00pm—went to the marina café for lunch.
By 3:00pm we were back on the boat. It was too cool and windy for fishing, so we rested
up for tomorrow!
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At 6:15pm we gathered in the salon, at 7:30pm we sat inside for dinner, and by
9:30pm we were retired. Another successful day!
And so to bed…
In Boca Grande, FL
Awake at 8:00am and on deck by 8:30am. It was very cold—a high of 60 degrees
was forecast—with a 20-knot wind.
Just after breakfast Doug Coe came by to say hello. He had just returned from a
40 birthday party for Shannon, his wife and Hilarium’s first mate. The party was at
Harbor Island in the Bahamas. Doug then gave a guided tour through Hilarium, a treat for
all of us.
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At about 10:30am we headed out to the fishing hole that Joe had introduced to us.
It was not comfortable fishing, and it was unsuccessful to boot: Jon caught a small trout,
and that was it.
At 12:30pm we picked up the anchor and headed to Cabbage Key for lunch. Our
waitress, Christine, was a very cute young blond with a great personality. It was her first
day on the job! There were few customers, but what idiots would be out on a boat in this
weather?
After lunch we returned to Boca Grande in search of warmth. By 3:00pm we were
on Myeerah. At 6:15pm we met in the salon and watched the national news. Then we sat
inside for dinner. After spirited conversation covering the exploitation of labor by
management and the role of unions, we disbanded and retired.
And so to bed…
In Boca Grande, FL
Awake at 8:00am and on deck at 8:30am. It was still cold, but not quite as breezy
as yesterday. My colleagues thought it was warmer because we were in the lee and
protected from the wind, so at 11:00am they decided that we would go fishing in the old
fishing hole.
As we left the harbor we realized that it was still unpleasant. The temperature was
low 60s and the north wind qwas brisk. But we fished until about 12:30pm. Only one
small puffer was caught!
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Buy 1:00pm we were back at Myeerah. After lunch at the Eagle Grill we kicked
around for the afternoon. At 6:00pm we had drinks in the salon and at 7:15pm we sat
down to dinner. By 9:00pm we retired.
And so to bed…
Boca Grande, FL to Naples, FL
60 nm, 5 hrs, 12.0 kts
Awake at 8:00am. The wind was still brisk from the north, but at about 10:00am it
quieted down. On starting the engines there was a loud “pop.” One of the batteries had
exploded! This created a delay while Ben ferreted out a new battery. We found that a
standard 12-volt battery could be used temporarily.
At 2:30pm the engines started and we left Boca Grande. The return trip was
gentle under sunny warmth—the first in five days. At 6:00pm T/T Myeerah disconnected
and I took her home. Myeerah was at the dock by 6:30pm.
Epilogue
This was a good guy trip. We all enjoyed each other’s company. Unfortunately,
the weather was not obliging, but I’d rather be on a boat in mediocre weather than on
land in the best weather.
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Naples, FL to Southseas Plantation, Captiva Island, FL
March 10-12m, 2009
Chef Megha Perrrone
John and Milly Stewart
Total Trip
Prologue
This is a Naples Yach Club cruise. We will have to return a day early because I
am giving a talk at the Port Royal Club on the state of the economy. Our guests are John
and Milly Stewart, and Charlie and Jane Gaillard.
Naples, FL to South Seas Plantation
40nm, 4 hrs, 10.0 kts
Because I have to be back for my presentation, and in light of the starting problem
experienced on the last trip, I decided to drive T/T Myeerah up to Captiva Island. That
way I could be sure of getting back in time.
Joan (and Smidgen and Patches) met our guests at the Yacht Club and by 9:00am
Myeerah was underway. At 10:15am I started off in T/T Myeerah. There were flat seas
with a slight swell. At about 12:30pm I arrived at Red Fish Pass, just as Myeerah was
entering the Pass. By 1:00pm we were at our dock with T/T Myeerah rafted to Myeerah.
It had been sunny, warm, and calm the whole way.
South Seas Plantation has an exquisite marina, a nin-hole golf course, a
restaurant, and well maintained condos and houses. It really is a nugget in Pine Island
Sound. We were docked next to the restaurant, which was not a problem at all—easy
access to everything and a quiet ambiance.
At 6:00pm we walked the few feet to a dock-side cocktail party for a “meet and
greet.” By 6:45pm I was back on the boat. The others arrived just after 7:00pm, and we
had an excellent dinner.
And so to bed…
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At South Seas Plantation
Awake at 8:00am for a quick breakfast before an 8:45am shotgun teeoff at the
golf course—a beautiful par three course along the ICW. It was warm as we (Charlie,
John, Ken Weg and me) teed off on the nine-hole course, which we would play twice. At
about 12:30pm we finished play with a score of 50 gross, 46.5 net. It turned out that we
tied for first on gross score, but we won on net score!
By 1:00pm we were on Myeerah for lunch and a little down time before the
mandatory putting contest at 3:15pm. I was teamed with Carol Gill, and she couldn’t
carry us to victory in spite of her keen eye.
At 6:15pm we climbed onto the trolley to go for diner at the Captiva Island Yacht
Club, adjacent to Tween Waters Marina. We had a great evening woth excellent food and
good cheer. But by 9:00pm we were back on the trolley.
On returning to Myeerah, Charlie uncaged his guitar, sat in a chair on the dock,
and entertained us with song for about an hour. He had quite a crowd around him, and he
was quite good. What a range of talents1 It was a perfect end to a great day and aliovely
evening.
And so to bed…
South Seas Plantation t0 Naples, FL
40nm, 3¼ hrs, 12.3 kts
Awake at 9:00am and at a good breakfast by 9:30am. It was another gorgeous
warm and windless day. Many of the group are staing for another day, but I have to get
back to give an early evening talk at he Port Royal Club. The topic is the
currenteconomic and financial malaise.
At 10:30am I left in T/T Myeerah for a quick 1½ hour ride home. Myeerah had to
wait for higher tide; she left at 11:30am. I arrived at noon, and Myeerah arrived at the
Naples Yacht Club at about 3:00pm.
Epilogue
This was a very short but very fun trip. The NYC crowd is a lot of fun, and South
Seas Plantation was a beautiful spot to spend time.
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April 5 – 10, 2009
Chef Megha Perrrone
Phil Francouer
George Vyverberg
Gordon Watson
Total Trip
Prologue
This is another guy trip, to fish in the Everglades City area. It is timed to occur
when Joan is on a Colonial Dames Trip to Winston-Salem, NC to see historic houses.
The night before Myeerah left Naples Joan and I hosted a dinner cruise with six
guests who had bought a dinner cruise at an auction to benefit a group supporting abused
women. After the cruise I spent the night on Myeerah so that I could be there when my
guests arrived.
At 9:00am on Sunday, April 5, Phil Francouer and George Vyverberg arrived.
The third Guest, Gordon Watson, would meet us the next day at Everglades City.
Naples FL to Russell Pass, Everglades National Park, FL
40 nm, 3¾ hrs, 10.7 kts
At 10:15am we left the dock. It was hot and humid, with a dead flat sea. As we
approached Cape Romano the wind came up a bit, but it was a good ride.
The anchorage in Russell Pass, near Everglades City, has a sandbar running most
of he way across the entrance, so at Indian Key I took T/T Myeerah and led Myeerah in
through the deeper channel; the trick is to head from Indian Key to the green marker on a
mangrove point just outside of Russell Bay, then turn 45 degrees to port and skirt the
mangrove into a large bowl of water about 15 feet deep.
At 2:00pm we were at anchor. The wind was about 10 knots and it was warm and
comfortable. We took time for reading and naps, then at 5:30pm George, Phil and I took
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T/T Myeerah into the Barron River for a look at Everglades City. It has changed slightly
since last year—the condo buildings that were under construction when Hurricane Wilma
hit in 2005 have been demolished, and the RV park at the defunct marina was empty but
recently reopened. Other than that, it seemed unchanged.
At 7:00pm we were back at Myeerah having dinner. By 9:00pm we had retired.
And so to bed…
Day 2: Monday, April 6, 2009
At Russell Pass, Everglades National Park, FL
Awake at 8:30am and on deck by 9:00am. Ben had taken T/T Myeerah to the Rod
& Gun Club in Everglades City, where he met Gordon Watson. By 9:15am they were
back on Myeerah for breakfast.
At 10:15am our fishing guide, Captain Jim Ponder, arrived from Port of the
Island. His boat, Ol’ Pelican, was a pontoon-style boat that was perfect for the four of us.
Jim had been a GM dealer in Missouri until 1991, when he semi-retired and came to
Florida; he still has a logging business in Missouri, but is an absentee owner.
Until 2:15pm we jumped from spot to spot in the mangrove islands. Lots of fish
were caught: Many mangrove snappers (five keepers), a 12-pound goliath grouper that
had to be thrown back because it is endangered, A gag grouper that was released because
it was too small…and lots of catfish.
At 2:30pm we were back on Myeerah. At 4:15pm, after lunch and lots of chat we
took a break from our activities to read and rest.
At 6:00pm we met in the salon for drinks and snapper fingers. Though heavy
clouds had come in and the wind had picked up to 25 knots, we had dinner on the aft
deck. As we were eating a small squall hit, blowing a cushion off the boat. Ben took the
tender to catch it just as rain hit. What adventure!
At 9:00pm, after much conversation, we watched a new episode of 24. At
10:00pm we retired.
And so to bed…
Day 3: Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Awake at 7:30am and on deck at 8:00am. It was still windy, very cloudy, and
quite cool. At 10:00am, after breakfast, Captain Jim arrived in Ol’ Pelican and we headed
off into the mangroves.
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The catch today was better than yesterday. We released one 8-pound goliath
grouper, many catfish, some ladyfish, and one snook; but we kept eight mangrove
snappers and one whiting (southern kingfish). Our most successful fisherman in the two
days was Ol’ Catfish Watson, who had had the worst catch (23 catfish) and the best catch
(the 12-pound goliath grouper, the gag grouper, and the whiting. I had enjoyed catching
the smaller goliath grouper and the snook, as well as many snappers.
At 2:30pm we were back on Myeerah for lunch. Captain Jim was paid and
thanked. We really had enjoyed his easy manner and affability, and in spite of less than
favorable conditions we had caught a lot of fish! To top it off, the sun had come out but it
was still very windy and cool.
The afternoon was spent watching the Red Sox season opener (they beat the
Tampa Bay Rays), reading, napping, and so on. At 6:00pm we met in the salon for drinks
and appetizers, then at 7:30pm we sat inside for dinner. Our fish did not show up in the
meal so we should see it tomorrow.
At 9:00pm we retired.
And so to bed…
Day 4: Wednesday, April 8, 2009
Awake at 8:30am after a not-so-good sleep., so we breakfasted inside. At 9:30am
Ben and Gordon returned from their search for bait in Everglades City and Chokoloskee,
having found some almost-alive shrimp at their third stop.
At 10:00am we headed out to fish. It was 55 degrees and windy. We first tried to
get back into the mangroves as had aptain Jim. But it was low tide and there just wasn’t
enough water. Then we headed toward Everglades City and fished at a couple of fishless
spots off the channel. Finally, we went to he backside of Everglades City and dropped
hooks in a back-water bay. The bay was so dark and brackish that the fish probably
couldn’t see the almost-live shrimp.
So we headed to the Rod & Gun Club for lunch. After lunch we headed back to
Myeerah, arriving at about 2:45pm. George went to sleep while the rest of us read. At
6:30pm we sat on the aft deck for the last supper.
And so to bed…
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Day 5: Thursday, April 9, 2009
Russell Pass, Everglades National Park to FL Naples FL
40 nm, 3¾ hrs, 10.7 kts
At 10:00am, after breakfast, Gordon and Phil to EvergladesCity so they could
drive back to Naples. George and I stayed on Myeerah, and at 1:00pm, when the tide was
sufficient, we left for Naples.
The ride was pleasant, and at 4:30pm we reached Gordon Pass. I tok T/T Myeerah
home while George went to the Naples Yacht Club.
Epilogue
This was a short but pleasant trip. We all got along well, and everything on the
boat was working.
The main lesson I learned was the importance of a good fishing guide—you just
can’t do as well on your own.
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May 30, 2009 – June 13, 2009
Chef Meghan Perron
Total Trip
1,069 gallons at 45 gph
Prologue
The last two weeks have been spent preparing for the move back north—packing
clothes and files, shipping Tarhe, etc. Now we have a two-week break on Myeerah in the
Bahamas. Then we “enjoy” the summer-that-will-not-be: Moving out of our Beacon Hill
house and into our Weston house, and moving from the Barnacle to the Periwinkle in
Annisquam.
On Saturday, May 30 we boarded our chartered Pilatus PC-12 (N977XL) at the
Naples airport for a flight to Nassau. The flight was uneventful but majestic—weaving
between massive thunderheads.
Captain Ben met us after Customs and Immigration, and by 1:00pm we were on
Myeerah at Hurricane Hole Marina. We had lunch and spent the afternoon on R&R. It
was warm and humid, with occasional light rain.
After dinner we read for a while. I finished Christopher Buckley’s Losing Mum
and Pup, a warm-hearted roast of his mother and father (William F. Buckley Jr.,
“conservative icon”), who died within a year of each other. Mum went first to be sure that
the bed linens were clean in heaven. It is very funny in a painful sort of way.
And so to bed…
Nassau, The Bahamas to Highbourne Cay, The Bahamas
37 nm, 3¾ hrs, 9.9 kts
Awake at 9:00am. Again—warm and humid, with a low stratus cloud layer. At
11:15am, after a late breakfast, Myeerah left Hurricane Hole. Black clouds chased us as
we headed across the Yellow Bank. A light rain began to fall. We saw several boats on
the Nassau-Highbourne Cay rhumb line, only one of much size.
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At 2:45pm we arrived outside of Highbourne Cay Marina. The wind had picked
up to 40 knots, and a very heavy rain was falling. At 3:00pm we were tied up at the north
dock, next to Dividend, a 100-footer.
The afternoon was spent reading. I started on David McCullough’s The Path
Across the Sea, about the Panama Canal. I’ve always enjoyed his epics about great people
and events.
After a very good dinner, we read until bedtime.
Highbourne Cay to Sampson Cay
44 nm, 4½ hrs, 9.8 kts
Awake at 8:30am after a cozy night with Joan, Smidgen, and Patches—each o us
fighting for space. On deck at 9:00am just after a short downpour. The sky was leaden
but appeared to be lightening up.
At 11:15am we left Highbourne Cay and headed lowly south to Sampson Cay. On
the way we encountered a large squall with 45-knot winds and heavy rain. At 3:45pm we
were at the dock at Sampson Cay. The squall had passed and there was a light drizzle. At
3:45pm we were settled at the marina on the long face dock in the south basin.
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After dinner we watched Valkyrie, the Tom Cruse movie about the 15 and last
attempt on Hitler’s life. It was pretty good, for a Tom Cruise movie.
And so to bed…
In Sampson Cay
Awake at 8:30am, on deck at 9:00am. It was sunny!!!!!!! And comfortably
warm!!!!!
At 10:30am, after breakfast, Joan, Smidgen, Patches and I went for a swim at the
little beach just forward of Myeerah. It was warm, and the dogs huffed and puffed as the y
paddled around. Patches was clearly less enthusiastic than Smidgen, but she would not b
left behind. But the swim was short because the princesses started shivering.
At 1:00pm we ate lunch on the aft deck. It was still warm and sunny. At 2:00pm
Joan, Ben, and I took the tender to Compass Cay. We had heard that it had new docks,
had been dredged, and was now a destination. The source was our Nassau taxi driver,
who was the cousin of “Tucker,” Compass Cays owner. I had thought that this was an
odd coincidence until I learned that Tucker’s last name was Rolle: Almost every
Bahamian is in, or a cousin to, the Rolle family!
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The ride to Compass Cay was beautiful, and Compass Cay had been improved.
But it seemed no more desirable than in the past. The dock improvements had attracted
boats, but it seemed very congested. And there was really nothing appealing about the
cay even though its website made it appear to be the center of Bahamian life.
By 3:30pm we were back on Myeerah. A low but light cloud layer arrived with
us, but there were no threats in the clouds.
After dinner we watched the first half of The Curious Case of Benjamin Button,
the quirky story of a “baby” born at age 80 with cataracts and severe arthritis who gets
younger as he “ages.” Adapted from an F. Scot Fitzgerald short story, it is very creative.
Can’t wait to see the second half tomorrow.
In Sampson Cay
Awake at 9:00am, soon on deck. It was another sunny, warm morning. After
breakfast we read, and at noon Joan, Ben, and I took the tender to the Staniel Cay Yacht
Club for lunch and to pick up an electronic part that was shipped to us from Ft.
Lauderdale.
Staniel Cay was busy with boats at the marina so it took a while to find a spot for
the tender. Ben picked up the part and we had lunch—I will never again complain about
the hamburgers at the Naples Yacht Club!
By 2:30pm we were back at Sampson Cay, enjoying Myeerah’s air conditioning.
Ben installed the part and—voila!—our internet service worked again. More reading, and
at 3:45pm Smidgen and Patches took us for a swim at the marina beach. It was high tide,
and low beach, with a strong current running. The dogs huffed and puffed in the water,
and once they returned to shore they stayed to chase whatever could be found.
At 4:15pm we were back on Myeerah. Joan, having been bitten by some small
two-fanged sea monster, went under the care of Nurse Meghan. Soon all was well and we
went into hibernation for a while.
At 6:30pm a rain squall came through with strong downpour and brisk wind.
After dinner we watched the rest of Benjamin Button. This half was depressing as
Benjamin slides past everyone he knows and loves—they grow old and die while he
grows young and dies!
And so to bed…
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In Sampson Cay
Awake at 8:30am, on deck at 9:00am. Yesterday’s sun had given way to clouds.
We spent the day doing nothing except have lunch at the Sampson Cay café. Soon
after it began to drizzle. A hullabaloo occurred while Joan took the dogs for a walk.
While returning they broke for an area where wild chickens lived, catching and killing a
half-grown chick. Smidgen then disappeared into the bushes with her catch, and a halfhour was spent finding and capturing her. On returning to Myeerah she was unhurt but
had a strange smile on her face: First Blood!
After dinner we watched An Unfinished Life, a mediocre movie with Robert
Redford, Morgan Freeman, and—believe it!-Jennifer Lopez. In the end, all was forgiven
and the grizzly bear was free.
And so to bed…
Sampson Cay to Royal Island, Eleuthra
95 nm, 9 hrs, 10.6 kts
Awake at 8:15am when Myeerah left Sampson Cay, but not on deck until 9:30am.
During the night there had been thunderless lightning and heavy rain—I missed it! By the
time I was up it was sunny with partially cloudy skies.
The ride to Royal Harbor was uneventful. Moderate winds with a following sea
made it comfortable; the sky was overcast. On the way I finished McCullough’s The Path
Between the Seas, a blockbuster of 600+ pages with both broad vision and fine detail.
The first two parts were the most interesting: The failed French effort; the Roosevelt
strategy to separate the Isthmus region from Colombia by fomenting a revolution that
created the Republic of Panama; the immense technical and organizational challenges.
At 5:00pm we approached Royal Island in bright sunshine, and by 5:15pm we
were at anchor. Little had changed since our visit at this time last year: The heavy brush
around the old plantation house had been cleared away, and the staging area for
construction had been expanded. The plans for a hotel, golf course, marina, and housing
development were clearly on hold, I not dust, as were—and always had been--many such
plans in the Bahamas.
At 5:30pm I took Ben, Joan, and the princesses to the concrete quay at the ruins.
The sun was strong and bright. They walked the empty road down the spine of the island,
returning at about 6:15pm. By 6:30pm we were on Myeerah taking showers.
At 7:15pm we sat on the aft deck for hors d’oeuvres. We watched the sun set into
a low band of dark clouds, and had an excellent dinner from Chef Meghan. As night fell
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we watched the development of lightning in the west. And at 9:00pm we retired to the
salon to read; no movies tonight. I started Per Petterson’s Out Stealing Horses, a sparely
written novel about growing up in Norway.
Just after 9:30pm we retired to read a bit more.
And so to bed…
Royal Island, Eleuthra to Harbour Island, Eleuthra
17 nm, 2 hrs, 8.5 kts
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This is the 65 anniversary of D-Day. We should watch Saving Private Ryan to
remember the agonies suffered on and after that day.
At 7:15am Myeerah left Royal Island to meet Woody, our pilot, outside of
Spanish Wells. Woody guided us expertly through Spanish Wells and through the Devil’s
Backbone to Harbour Island, On the way he carried on a lengthy monologue in the quant
Spanish Wells accent. Among other things we learned that recently two large boats had
run up on reefs trying to get to Harbour Island. A 165-footer with a 9 foot draft, which
Woody had refused to pilot, found a willing but inexperienced pilot (A-1’s brother) who
ran it into a reef; it extricated itself by powering forward, then it limped back to Florida.
A 43-footer decided to save the cost of a pilot ($100!) and also ran itself on a reef. I
suspect that there were two ex-captains after this.
We arrived at Harbour Island Marina at 9:30am, docking next to Melia, an
expedition-style boat from Destin, FL She was 100-footer carrying two large tenders: a
20-foot Nautica and a 33-foot Pursuit-like boat. She was the mother ship for Dana Ann, a
45-foot sportfishing boat. Melia carried 13,000 gallons of fuel and 5,000 gallons of water.
Gray skies and an occasional light drizzle accompanied us from Royal Island, butt soon
after arrival the sun came out and it became very warm and beautiful. We read for a
while, had a tuna salad lunch, and at 2:00pm Joan and I set out with the princesses on a
golf cart tour.
Harbour Island Marina is at the “posh” south end of the island, where several
clubs are located. The housing there is upscale by island standards (four upright walls).
But as you head north and pass from the burbs to the urbs the living gets more dismal—
the city center is OK, but the north end is clearly the low-rent district.
The activity level, including that in the miniscule shopping area (anchored by the
Piggly Wiggly Market) was much lower than last year. I have several suggestions for the
Town Fathers and Mothers: first, rename Dunmore Street to Unless Street; second, after a
few hundred years it is time to consider repaving some streets; third, require that golf
carts have been built within the last 50 years.
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By 3:00pm we were back at Myeerah, our curiosity sated. Again, it was reading
time. After dinner we watched Traffic, a movie about drug trafficking and its insidious
effects.
Before retiring I finished Out Stealing Horses. It was a beautifully written tale of
loss and depression in Norway. Depressing but powerful!
And so t bed…
Got up at 9:30am—the princesses had begun barking at 5:00am! On deck at
10:00am to leaden skies. After a late breakfast, while Joan was walking the highnesses, a
very light drizzle began. This will be a quiet and lazy day, unlike those that preceded it.
At 2:00pm Joan, the girls, and I took the tender on a tour, just as another light rain
began. We went to the downtown area, then retraced our steps and went to the little beach
on Eleuthra that we had enjoyed last year. After following the Eleuthra coastline for a
while, we returned to Myeerah for a much-needed nap.
At 7:00pm we walked to Aquapazza, the Italian restaurant at the marina, and
enjoyed an excellent meal—Hogfish with a profiterole dessert. As we were eating a
couple was seated at an adjacent table: Peter and Judy Stanton, whom we had known in
Weston. They have been coming to Harbour Island for 46 years, and now stay for 8
months each year. Judy reported that each day she learns something new.
At 8:30pm we returned to Myeerah and began watching the first season of
Desperate Housewives. At 10:00pm we retired.
And so to bed…
Slept even later than usual, following a night of thunder, lightning, and heavy
rain. On deck at 9:30amto even more rain. After breakfast, Joan and I took Patches out on
the dock for her first obedience lesson. She could not get “sit,” even though she does
respond to it off-leash. “Heel” is a complete disaster. But if we keep at it, it will come—
Javanese are very smart dogs.
At 1:30pm, seeing a break in the rain, Joan and I walked to our golf cart for a tour
of the town. We had lunch at the Boardwalk Restaurant at Valentine’s Marina, during
which another heavy downpour arrived. Then we went shopping for housewarming
presents Joan could give to Betty Pearson and Jane Gillard when they host the bridge
marathon in July—no success.
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By 4:00pm we were back on Myeerah, just before another downpour. We read—
and feebly attempted more Patches-training. At 6:30pm—as the sky cleared—we sat on
the aft deck for dinner. It was much cooler and less humid . Another great dinner was
enjoyed.
At 8:00pm we started watching more Desperate Housewives—two additional
hours. It is interesting and painfully funny.
And so to bed…
Awoke at 9:00am to sunshine—WOW! At 10:30am Joan, the highnesses, and I
took the tender to the beach. The dogs explored the beach and picked up hundreds of pine
needles. Smidgen swam out to us several times, and was carried back to the beach each
time. Patches did not swim but bounded along the beach most of the time.
When it was time to leave we discovered that the tide had been going out. After
much huffing and puffing we wrestled the tender back to deeper water, and by 12:30pm
we were on Myeerah. At 1:00pm we sat down to lunch and watched a large squall come
toward us.
The afternoon was spent in R&R. We had a good dinner on the aft deck and
watched a decent sunset. After dinner we watched two more episodes of Desperate
Housewives.
And so to bed…
Awoke at 9:00am to sunshine—AGAIN! After breakfast Joan and I prepared for a
hard day at the office. At 11:00am we took the golf cart for an extended tour of Dunmore
Town. An extended tour is 37 seconds longer than the abbreviated tour.
At 12:30pm we went to the Coral Sand Club for lunch: a white veranda-style
main building overlooking the Atlantic, with hidden cottages on the property. It is very
upscale in an island-style ambience. We ate at the beachside restaurant located downhill
from the main building looking out on Pink Sand Beach. When we arrived there were
very few customers, plus three chickens trolling for food.
We had decent salads, during which black clouds and rain arrived. Near the end of
the meal eight Spanish/English-speaking couples came in. The women sat just behind us,
and the show began: In piercing voices they all called their orders to the waitress at the
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same time, then changed them repeatedly. One woman kept trying to control the process
but made things worse by giving incorrect corrections. It was a “Who’s On First”
experience, and it took at least 20 minutes for them to order. The poor waitress was very
confused but very polite. While they were holding her attention, we were kept waiting to
pay.
Finally we could leave and we returned to Myeerah in a light rain. After R&R we
sat for dinner as a very bright, hot, sun slid down over the flat coast of Eleuthra—the best
sunset we’ve had on this trip.
After dinner—more Desperate Housewives.
And so to bed…
Harbour Island, Eleuthra to Paradise Island, Nassau
58 nm, 4½ hrs, 12.9 kts
On deck at 9:15am to breakfast as we watch a rain squall approach. It hit at
10:15am, just as we left Harbour Island under Woody’s guidance; a Hatteras followed us.
The sun soon came back out.
At 10:15am we reached Bridge Point, where Woody left us and we headed toward
Nassau; the Hatteras headed into Spanish Wells. The ride to Nassau was glorious—strong
sun, with a high anvil-shaped squall cloud following at a distance, bathtub calm water.
Rarely is it this good.
We arrived at Paradise Island at 3:30pm, and by 3:45pm Ben had backed our 23foot beam into a 25 foot-wide slip at Hurricane Hole. Darker clouds approaehed from the
west. Immediately on arriving Joan took the girls for a walk. After returning them, she
went alone for a longer walk.
At 6:30pm we sat for dinner-a grilled grouper over rice in a coconut broth, with
jalapeños so strong my ears spewed steam like a calliope. And after dinner, again,
Desperate Housewives.
Before retiring I finished a wonderful book, The Help, about the experiences—
good and bad--of black housemaids in Mississippi in the 1960s. It rang so true, especially
in the light of my youth in Indianapolis, with a southern bigot-bitch stepmother and a
kind black housemaid.
And so to bed…
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In Nassau, Paradise Island
On deck at 9:30am. A boat had pulled in next to us at 6:30am, causing an excited
ruckus among the princesses. It was sunny and warm. Our plan was to walk over to the
shopping area near the Atlantis Marina, have lunch, and shop for whatever.
But at about 11:00am clouds rolled in and it began to rain. So we watched n
episode of Desperate Housewives, completing the 12th of 24 first season episodes. Finally
the rain stopped and at about 1:00pm we walked to the Atlantis shopping area. Joan
shopped a bit, we looked at some of the yachts (Redemption, formerly News, was there),
and had lunch at the Bahamas Bistro. It had become very hot and humid.
By 3:00pm we were back on Myeerah. Joan gave the girls a shower, cooing to
them as she dried and combed them. At 5:30pm all of us took a cab to The One & Only
Ocean Club for Dinner at the Dunes Restaurant: A “Happy Wedding” dinner for Meghan
and Eric. We spent 45 minutes wandering around the grounds of Huntington Hartford’s
former estate, and then sat for an excellent meal.
At 8:30pm we were back on Myeerah. Patches had vented her anger by tearing up
a pad of paper. A few minutes watching TV and we retired.
And so to bed…
Nassau, The Bahamas to Boston, MA
At 10:00am we took a cab to Odyssey FBO at Nassau’s Pinder Airport, arriving at
10:15am. Our plane was waiting--A Hawker 400P (N452TM) operated by Travel
Management Corp, Elkhart, IN. At 11:00pm, right on schedule, we took off.
At 12:30pm we landed at Wilmington, NC for customs. It was a very easy
process, but we didn’t take off until 1:30pm because of time spent refueling. The flight to
Boston was easy since we could fly above the high cumulus clouds. We touched down at
3:00pm and were home by 3:30pm.
Epilogue
This was a very pleasant trip, as our Bahamas trip had been last year. It did rain
quite a bit, but we had brought plenty of books and our goal was simply to relax. We
achieved our goal. Myer was on good behavior—only minor problems easily fixed by
Ben. The dogs behaved, with Patches being a slight delinquent on the paper-eating side.
Ben, Eric, and Meghan did a great job.
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Portsmouth, NH to Castine, ME
July 19 - 24, 2009
Chef Meghan Perron Jussame
Charlie Gaillard
John Pearson
John Stewart
Total Trip
302 nm, 27¼ hours running time, 11.1 kts, 1,362 gallons at 50.0 gph
Prologue
Joan has been invited to the First Annual Bridge Boot Camp, to be held at Jane
Gaillard’s house in York, ME for three days and move to Betty Pearson’s house on
Sebago Lake for two days. The men are persona non grata for the week, and I have
invited Charlie Gaillard, John Pearson, and John Stewart (Milly is also at boot camp) on a
cruise to Maine. We have no firm itinerary, but it will be fun to be on Myeerah with good
friends.
Portsmouth NH to Portland ME
49 nm, 4 hrs, 12.3 kts
At 10:45am I started off in Drag On to meet Myeerah in Portsmouth. In spite of a
forecast of west winds at 5-10 knots, the ride was a bit choppy so I aborted the direct
route in favor of a route close to shore so I could be in the lee. Even so, there was chop
much of the way.
At noon I arrived at Wentworth-by-the-Sea Marina—and the fun began. As I entered
Little Harbor the tide was ripping on its way out (it passes through a very narrow cut and
runs at up to 5 knots). I planned to nestle up to Myeerah’s swim platform, but I didn’t
account for the strength of the current that would be directly on Myeerah’s bow, and on
Drag On’s beam as it approached the swim platform. As I approached Myeerah the
current swept me away toward the boats on an adjacent dock. After my stern hit the bow
of a nice blue-hulled boat, I was pressed against the finger of the slip that the victimized
boat was in. When I finally got some control and began to move into the clear, a line
crossing from the bow of the victimized boat to the finger got caught under one of Drag
On’s stern cleats. I was unable to move forward, and if I left the helm I would be swept
back into the other boat!
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Finally two of Wentworth’s staff from the fuel dock noticed my predicament and
extricated my stern from the fouled line. I was able to make headway against the current,
and eventually rafted alongside Myeerah, abandoning the idea of tying up to the swim
platform. I think I was the object of great entertainment. But only my pride was hurt.
Once aboard Myeerah, I greeted my guests and then hopped back onto Drag On
to disconnect so that Myeerah could depart. I followed Myeerah out of little Harbor to the
mouth of the Pisqataqua River, where we tried to reconnect. Once again the current was
too strong, and the problem was compounded by waves and wakes. After several tries,
and some bumps into the swim platform, we finally connected. Fortunately, the only
thing hurt in the debacle was what remained of my pride.
By 1:30pm we were on our way to Portland in sunny skies with a slight following
sea. By 5:30pm we were anchored at a favorite spot between Falmouth Foreside and
Clapboard Island. The wind calmed, the sun shone, and a pervasive sense of well-being
enveloped us.
At 7:30pm we had a very good dinner (Kbi Steak), and by 9:00pm I had retired to
read.
And so to bed…
Portland ME to Christmas Cove, Bristol ME
42 nm, 4 hrs, 10.5 kts
I was on deck by 8:30am. It was sunny, warm, and perfectly calm. At 7:00am
Charlie and John Pearson had gone with Ben to the General Store in Falmouth Foreside
to get papers and to drop in on one of John’s friends who lived there. By 8:45pm they
returned and we sat for a breakfast of Eggs Benedict with lobster instead of ham—very
unusul!
At 10:00am we started on our way to Christmas Cove. It was—and it remained—
a beautiful day. The leisurely cruise along the Maine Coast was gorgeous, with the rock
islands and trees glistening in the sun. At 2:00pm we entered Christmas Cove. A small
boat (25-30 feet) was tied up in our space at the face dock and the staff didn’t know who
owned it. So they walked it to another spot and we docked, taking up the entire face dock.
At about 3:00pm John, John, Charlie and I started out in Drag On to go up the
Damariscotta River to the town of Damariscotta. It was a reasonably successful trip by
recent standards: We fouled one lobster buoy and ran aground only twice (the channel is
very poorly marked); but, again, no harm was done. Clouds had come in and the ride was
cool on the way upriver and downright cold on the downriver leg against the wind. But it
is a pretty river, with nice Maine-style houses along the edge, and well worth the effort.
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At 4:00pm we returned. Ben informed us that we had missed some fun.
Apparently the guy who had left his boat in the wrong spot had returned to find it moved.
Ben tried to be polite but the fellow kept railing at him about his boat being moved, and
about how we didn’t belong there. He wouldn’t take his complaint to the Coveside Inn,
which had moved his boat and taken our reservation and finally, seeing that this was a
very unreasonable fellow, Ben said “Well, aren’t you Mister Grumpypants!” That seemed
to help end the “conversation.” Mr. Grumpypants and his guests soon left.
At 4:30pm I retired to study the insides of my eyeballs, and to take these notes. At
6:00p we gathered on the aft deck. The sun shone on the harbor and the boats, and it was
warm. Occasional calls from the Coveside Restaurant were heard, such as “Have you any
Grey Poupon?” We had great conversation, and an excellent pork chop dinner. At
9:00pm, chased by gnats, we disbanded.
And so to bed…
Christmas Cove, Bristol ME to Castine ME
62 nm, 6 hrs, 10.3 kts
On deck at 8:30am. Ben, Charlie and John Pearson had walked to the general
store for papers. It was cloudy and cool when we had breakfast, with rain in the forecast.
At 10:00am we departed for Castine. Soon after, our cellphones came back to life
and John Pearson retrieved a call from Steve Anderson, who was in My Cyn with some
friends, heading toward Boothbay Hrbor from th Isles of Shoals. We will try to connect
with them tomorrow when we start heading south.
Our time was spent in the salon, reading and watching CNBC. At 1:30pm, as we
sat for lunch in the pilothouse, we entered the Fox Island Thorofare between Vinylhaven
and Northaven. IN spite of a solid cloud cover that had settled in, the houses along the
Thorofare were attractive. Activity was much reduced from the level of previous years—
few boats under way, and fewer boats on moorings.
At 2:30pm we exited the east end of the Thorofare and headed toward Castine,
arriving at 4:00pm. By 4:15pm we were anchored in Smith Cove. It had begun to rain,
but I called Jack Curtin and he invited us to take a tour of Castine with him. At 4:30pm
we left in Drag On. After a car tour we were back at the town dock waiting for Ben.
When he arrived, a fellow who had just arrived in a schooner asked us to turn the tender’s
engines off—these are 4-stroke engines that give off very little exhaust at idle: one
encounters an amazing array of hyper-sensitive people in the boating world!
By 6:00pm we were back on Myeerah. The rain had hardened and fog was
creeping in. So we gathered in the salon before dinner and watched news programs. At
8:00pm we sat for dinner in the dining room. A spirited session conversation on politics
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was moderated by John Pearson. With no fatalities, we all adjourned at 9:00pm. A steady
rain had begun and fog had thickened.
And so to bed…
Day 4: Wednesday, July 22, 2009
Castine ME to Boothbay Harbor, ME
65 nm, 6 hrs, 10.8 kts
On deck at 8:30am to a very deep fog that cleared off by 9:30am. At 10:00am we
started out from Smith Cove toward Boothbay Harbor. Our original plan had been to
meet Steve Anderson on his My Cyn in Camden and have lunch, then head to Boothbay
Harbor. But the fog had diverted him to another port, and the connection couldn’t be
made.
As we headed down the west side of Penobscot Bay we had heavy gray clouds but
good visibility. On the way to Boothbay Harbor we passed My Cyn as it went toward
Penobscot Bay. The clouds lifted and as we approached our destination the sun came out.
We entered the broad entrance to Boothbay Harbor, leaving Southport Island on
our port. As we rounded up into the wind to disconnect Drag On, a catamaran sailboat
(Silver Bear) was heading in our direction but was still some distance away. Clearly they
saw us from a distance, but apparently they were very unhappy folks: as they passed—
never moving their rudder and almost hitting Drag On—they shouted obscenities galore
and waved the bird vigorously. They were still in high dudgeon as they disappeared.
Now, here we are in an open area with plenty of water and room to maneuver, and we
encounter the most unnecessarily obscene road rage! Is there no social veneer left? I have
to say—it is sailors who behave the worst, with sportfishing boats running second. The
first just hate powerboats and often behave in overtly inflammatory ways; the second just
plow ahead leaving huge wakes with nary a concern for others.
Anyhow, at 4:00pm we were at the Carousel Marina among powerboaters, who
seem to be much nicer. Maybe it is a class thing—the plumbers and butchers become
sailors while the literate and cosmopolitan folk are power boaters. The sun was out,
though it was cool and a bit windy. But all was well.
The gentlemen took a walk while I worked. At 6:00pm we met on the aft deck.
Soon after, much to my surprise, Papi du Papi from London arrived at the fuel dock. She
is a 30m Ferretti Navetta like Myeerah but ten feet longer. She’s the only other Navetta
that I’ve seen in the U.S.
At 8:00pm, while we were dining on the aft deck, President Obama began his
press conference pushing health care reform. He is remarkably articulate, and he took the
right stance: promoting reform but not being specific about which of the current
proposals he will support—the very liberal House plan or a more moderate plan.
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After dinner we had a discussion about health care costs. Last night there had
been three against one (John Pearson) on politics. Tonight there were three against one
(me) on health care costs. At 10:00pm we retired.
And so to bed…
Boothbay Harbor ME to Portland ME
36 nm, 3¼ hrs, 11.1 kts
On deck at 8:30am to heavy leaden skies and a light fog. At 10:00am Papi dy Papi
left just as rain began. When we left at 11:15am there was a light drizzle and the fog had
thickened a bit. The ride to Portland was comfortable as winds remained light, though a
ground swell did create some motion.
We arrived at 2:30pm at Dimillo’s Marina, where Ben skillfully backed Myeerah
up to the restaurant, naxt to Thirteen, a very large yacht. The O’Meara’s Rejoyce was at
the same dock but further in toward shore.
At 3:15pm John Pearson and Chalie took a walk while I went down to shower. Ad
at 6:00pm we all went to Five Fifty-Five, a restaurant at 555 Congress Street. The food
was fabulous, and (for me) it was free! Our driver on the cab ride back was Henny
Youngman himelf—a real entertainer.
And so to bed…
Portland ME to Portsmouth NH
48 nm, 4 hrs, 12.0 kts
On deck at 8:30am to heavy rain. Today the weather is forecast as “rotten, with
terrible on the side.” 20-25 knot northeast winds with heavy rain in the morning, abating
in the afternoon. The first part is certainly right.
At 9:45am we left Dimillo’s. First we headed into heavy seas and took a
pounding. But as we cleared Cape Elizabeth and headed south we put the seas on our port
quarter and the pounding stopped. Still, with 5-7 foot seas, it was not a smooth ride.
Heavy fog followed us for most of the trip.
At 1:45pm we reached the outer jetty at Wentworth-by-the-Sea. The rain had
stopped and the sun was beginning to creep in. By 3:00pm Charlie, John, and John had
started n their trip home. I decided to stay for the night to avoid the trip to Annisquam in
Drag On through heavy seas. Tomorrow will be a better day!
After a nice dinner on the aft deck, I watched some CSI shows and retired at
9:00pm. And so to bed…
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Epilogue
Except for the weather, this was a good trip. The four of us got along well in spite
of spirited disagreements, the crewwere magnificent, and Myeerah worked well. The
Maine coastline is magnificent, especially when you can see it.
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Cruising in Maine with the Naples Yacht Club
August 11 - 19, 2009
Fran and Janette Engelhardt
Bob and Marie Wilson
Total Trip
426 nm, 38 hrs running time, 11.2 kts, 1,900 gallons at 50 gph
Prologue
This is the fourth annual Naples Yacht Club Cruise. After last year’s cruise to
Long Island Sound, we are returning to the State of Maine. The trip has been skillfully
constructed by John Benning, our traditional MC. Our guests are Fran and Janette
Engelhardt, who will meet us in Portsmouth, and Bob and Marie Wilson, who will make
the connection at Boothbay Harbor.
On this same day we are closing on our new house in Weston, having sold our
Beacon Hill house three weeks ago.
Portsmouth NH to Portland ME
48 nm, 4¼ hrs, 11.3 kts
At 9:45am Joan, the dogs, and I left Annisquam to do an errand in Gloucester,
then we drove to Wentworth-by-the-Sea. As luck would have it, President Obama was
scheduled to fly to Portsmouth today and give a Town Hall talk at the Portsmouth High
School (right on our route). Fortunately, there was no congestion as we passed the high
school area.
We arrived at Wentworth at 11:30am. It was sunny and very calm. We were
greeted by the Engelhardts as we boarded Myeerah At 12:15pm we left Little Harbor and
headed toward Portland.
The trip was strange. It remained calm, but we went from sun to deep fog, to light
fog, and—as we approached Portland—light rain. At 4:30pm we docked at Dimillo’s.
After the rain stopped, Joan, the Engelhardts, and the princesses took a walk.
At 6:15pm we met in the salon. By 7:00pm we were seated outside for dinner.
After delightful dinner and conversation, we retired at 9:30pm. And so to bed…
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Portland ME to Boothbay Harbor ME
36 nm, 3¼ hrs, 11.1 kts
On deck at 8:30am. It was sunny and very calm. At 9:30am we sat outside for a
breakfast of French Toast and sausage (yum!). After breakfast walks were taken.
At 11:15am Myeerah left Dimillo’s just as fog crept into Portland Harbor. The
ride to Portland was very comfortable, though the sights were dimmed by clouds and
occasional fog. At 2:30pm we arrived at Wotton’s Wharf and docked in goods company:
Lined up behind us were the Benning’s Paquet V, The O’Meara’s Rejoyce, The Scott’s
Southerly (an Eastbay 49), and Annastar, a beautiful blue-hilled 117-foot Delta; there was
a parade of NYC burgees. The Wilsons had not arrived: at 3:00pm they called reporting
that they had just reached Newburyport, MA. Mary Alice, a 130-foot Westport chartered
by the Morrisons, was at a dock in town.
After hellos all around, Fran and Janette joined me on T/T Myeerah (the
inflatable) to tour the Boothbay Harbor area. After that we went on a search for tonight’s
dinner venue: the Boothbay Harbor Yacht Club. A careful reading of the charts showed
that it was quite a hike—westward through the channel to the Sheepscot River.
Regrettably, after this jaunt we discovered that the BHYC was not where it was supposed
to be: it had mysteriously moved to a location close to Wotton’s Wharf! So much for my
careful reading of charts.
We returned to Myeerah at about 4:30pm. The Wilsons had not arrived yet, but
they finally arrived at 6:00pm, just as we and the Engelhardts left in T/T Myeerah for the
Boothbay Harbor Yacht Club. They drove over to meet us.
We had a fun dinner at the BHYC, then at 9:30pm Fran and I took the tender back
to Myeerah while the ladies drove back with the Wilsons. Once gathered, we sat in the
salon telling jokes until retiring at 10:15pm.
And so to bed…
Boothbay Harbor ME to Seal Bay, Vinylhaven Island ME
48 nm, 4¼ hrs, 11.3 kts
On deck at 9:00am to cloudy and cool weather. Ben was working diligently
replacing a seawater pump for the AC system. At 11:30am, after a late breakfast and
walk, Myeerah departed Wotton’s Wharf, the last boat to leave; the AC system was back
in operation (not that it was needed now).
The ride to Seal Bay was pleasant—very calm with cloudy skies. We went up to
Penobscot Bay, then north in the Bay to the Fox Island Thorofare, east through the
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Thorofare, and into Seal Bay. We arrived at 3:45pm just as the sun began to break
through.
Once settled we took the tender on a tour with the dogs. We found a dock with a
closed-up shack and Bob and Fran took the dogs for a brief, but unsuccessful, attempt at
evacuation. We returned to Myeerah at about 6:00pm, and at 6:30pm Ben took everyone
but me to Rejoyce for cocktails. At 7:30 pm they returned with the Andersons and
Gaillards (from My Cyn). After the sunset cannon at 7:50pm, we had dinner on
Myeerah—the ladies in the dining room and the men on the cold aft deck. As we ate,
Rebecca arrived. She is a gorgeous 120-foot blue-hulled sailing ketch from Newport RI.
At 9:45pm we disbanded and retired.
And so to bed…
Seal Bay, Vinylhaven Island ME to Orcutt Harbor, Eggomoggin Reach, ME
35 nm, 3½ hrs, 10.0 kts
On deck at 9:30am to a clear skies and a sunny day. After breakfast, Fran, Bob
and I took the tender to explore. As we passed Annastar we chatted with Rob, the
captain, who had been the captain of True Grit, Pete Nicholas’s original Hilarium, a 96foot Burger. Annastar is a very attractive boat—lots of room, beautiful hull. One of the
few other boats that I could be interested in. She was built by Delta in 1996 to look like a
classic Feadship, but has been refitted and painted Flag Blue.
At 11:45am we left Seal Bay The only boat remaining from our fleet was My Cyn.
Our plan was to cruise slowly to Smith Cove in Castine, have lunch, then cruise to Orcutt
Harbor at the east end of Eggomoggin Reach to meet the fleet. The northward cruise to
Castine was very pleasant. We dropped anchor in Smith Cove at 2:00pm.
At 3:00pm, after a great lunch, we started off to Orcutt Harbor. As we left we
passed Annastar, anchored off of Castine; apparently her captain had taken my that
Castine was well worth a stop. We were later informed that the Flatleys and Millers had
docked at the town dock, and were eating on land as we passed by.
At 4:15pm We arrived at Orcutt Harbor, a very beautiful spot just west of Bucks
Harbor on Eggomoggin Reach. At 6:00pm Ben took everyone in the tender to Dick and
Ann Silven’s home, where cocktails and heavy hors d’oeuvres were served. I went in at
7:00pm,. The Silven’s live in rustic home way above water level, requiring quite a climb.
By 7:30pm we were back on Myeerah, where Ben had repaired the signal cannon for
sunset detonation.
After chatting and laughing for a while, we retired early.
And so to bed…
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Orcutt Harbor, Eggomoggin Reach, ME To Blue Hill ME
33 nm, 3 hrs, 11.0 kts
On deck at 9:30am, a tribute to a good night’s sleep. Sunny, light wind,
comfortable. While we had a late breakfast, Ben cleaned the waterline and dove on the
props to cut lobster line away.
We were the last boat to leave, departing at 11:15pm for Blue Hill. We cruised at
slow speed through Eggomoggin Reach and Casco Passage, arriving at Blue Hill at
2:15pm. The smaller boats had anchored in the Inner Harbor; we were in the Outer
Harbor with Annastar, Rejoyce, and Mary Alice.
After settling in, Ben took everyone in to the town of Blue Hill. The idea was that
he would come back to get me, but I waited and waited Eventually I got a call that they
were delayed because the town dock was also the hospital’s medevac helicopter landing
site. A helicopter had come in and blocked the area.
Eventually Ben returned with Joan and the Engelhardts—the Wilsons were a lost
patrol. Ben and I headed back in to get them, with success.
At 6:00pm we went over to Mary Alice, where the Morrisons were generously
offering cocktails and dinner. It was my first visit to a 130-foot Westport. It is well laid
out, much like Hilarium.
At 7:00pm Ben came to pick us up, and we returned to Myeerah for dinner. At
9:30pm, after great conversation and many chuckles, we retired.
And so to bed…
Blue Hill ME to Southwest Harbor ME
48 nm, 5 hrs, 9.6 kts
On deck at 9:00am. Ben, Fran, and Bob had gone into town, returning at 9:45am.
Mammoth horseflies had chased us off the aft deck, so we got underway at 10:00am—the
last to leave. It was flat calm and sunny.
We first went south to Swan’s Island, where we entered Toothacker Cove and
tooted three long blasts at the McCahans’ house; we had called but there was no answer.
On the way I finished The Professor and the Madman, an interestingly quirky book about
William Minor, a Yalie committed to a lunatic asylum in 1872, and James Murray, the
editor of the OED: Minor had been a major contributor to the OED is spite of his
incarceration, and he had struck up a friendship with Murray, who was one of the 19 th
centuries greatest lexicographers.
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Then we retraced our path and turned east into Casco Passage. At 1:30pm we
passed Bass Harbor and the Bass Harbor Light, and at 2:00pm, as we sat for lunch, we
passed Southwest Harbor and entered Somes Sound for a quick run up and down
America’s only fijord.
By 3:00pm we were docked at Dysart’s Marina at the head of Southwest Harbor.
Just as we had been the last boat to leave Blue Hill, we were the last to arrive at Dysart’s.
Dogs and people were walked, and at 5:30pm we all boarded a bus to go to Ken and
Carol Weg’s house for cocktails and dinner. The Weg’s house is gorgeous, situated in a
family compound located on the south channel between Cranberry Island and Southwest
Harbor. We had a very good catered dinner—all 48 of us.
At 9:00pm we all climbed onto the bus and returned to our boats. After about an
hour of conversation, we retired.
And so to bed…
Southwest Harbor ME to Southwest Harbor Me, via Bar Harbor ME
26 nm, 2¼ hrs, 11.6 kts
On deck at 9:00am with a planned departure at 10:30am. Steve and Cynthia
Anderson joined us for the day, arriving at 10:00am. But delays happen—we had
arranged for a Hinckley tech to come to upgrade the software for our internet satellite; it
had been having trouble tracking the satellite. He arrived at 9:45am and didn’t leave until
11:15am. But at 11:30am we were on our way.
We arrived at 12:45pm and anchored outside the mooring field. At 2:00pm, after
a brief lunch, Ben took a group to shore. When they returned at 2:45pm they reported that
it was very hot and not very interesting—too touristy. We immediately set off for
Southwest Harbor so we could arrive in time to spruce up for the 5:00pm bus ride to the
Fogg’s home and gardens at Seal Harbor.
At 5:15pm our bus left, with Heather at the wheel. The ride to the Fogg’s house
took about 40 minutes—up the west side of Somes Sound and down the east side to Seal
Harbor. Their house is high on rocks overlooking the passage from Southwest Harbor to
Bar Harbor. It is 20 years old but built to look like a very old summer house—very
attractive—with Old Maine furnishings and fine art. The gardens are small but
beautifully done.
At 7:00pm we piled on the bust for the short ride to the Seal Harbor Yacht Club
for dinner; Joe and Leslie Fogg had generously made the arrangements. I had thought that
the Annisquam Yacht Club was as minimalist as they come, but not so. The SHYC is one
room, about half the size of the AYC. It has no kitchen, one coed bathroom, and some
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docks for the sailing program. Members’ boats (including Martha Stewart’s beige
Hinckley and the Fogg’s 110-foot ketch, Keewaydin) are kept on moorings.
We had an awful dinner: bad catered food, and extreme heat and noise from 60
people packed into a hardwood-floored-and-walled room. Very disappointing.
At 9:00pm we piled into the buss gain, and at 9:45pm we were back at Dysart’s.
After chatting a bit, we gratefully retired.
And so to bed…
Southwest Harbor ME to Portland ME
104 nm, 8½ hrs, 12.2 kts
The engines started at 7:45am, just as the Wilsons left for a rental-car ride to
Boothbay Harbor. At 8:00am Myeerah was underway on the hike to Portland. The sky
was hazy and the seas were calm, with a slight ground swell.
Naps were taken as we headed westward. At 1:00pm, as we sat in the pilothouse
for lunch, we passed Boothbay Harbor and Sequin Island. At 4:30pm we were docked at
Dimillo’s Marina, after having passed our favorite trimaran, Silver Bear, on the way in
(see previous trip-Boothbay Harbor): the urge to give them a huge wake was stifled!.
Portland ME to Portsmouth NH
48 nm, 4 hrs, 12.0 kts
Engines on at 7:15am, departure at 7:30am, on deck t 9:00am—a perfect
schedule! It was very sunny and warm. I had breakfast alone; Joan and the Engelhardts
had given up on me!
The trip to Portsmouth was easy with some heavier swells near Cape Elizabeth;
they were probably being pushed northward by several tropical storms developing in the
Caribbean.
We arrived at Wentworth-by-the-Sea at 11:30am and quickly transferred to our
cars. The Engelhardts would visit their daughter in Boston, then drive back to
Birmingham MI. Joan and I would go to Annisquam so I could start a 2:00pm conference
call with the Asheville School board.
Epilogue
We seem to be very lucky in our guests—both the Engelhardts and the Wilsons
were delightful: easy and fun to be with. The Maine venues were beautiful, and we were
treated generously by our hosts: The Morrissons at an on-board party, and the Wegs and
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Foggs at their home on Mt. Desert. The weather cooperated, a great and pleasant surprise
after the miserable June and July.
Myeerah also cooperated, showing no weaknesses during the trip. Meghan’s food
was outstanding, and—as always—Ben and Eric kept things moving smoothly.
It was very good trip, marred only very slightly by the cocktail hours and the Seal
Bay Harbor Yacht Club experience.
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Norfolk, VA to Beaufort, SC
October 11 - 17, 2009
Dick Kopcke
Total Trip
497 nm, 47 hrs running time, 10.6 kts, 2,115 gallons at 45 gph
Prologue
Since our last trip on Myeerah in early August we have taken a family trip to
Montana to celebrate our 45 th anniversary and moved into our new house in Weston.
There has been no time for boats. So I arranged to follow the October 8-10 Trustee
meeting at Asheville School with a trip down the ICW as Myeerah heads to Florida. My
guest, Dick Kopcke, joined me for the entire trip.
Dick and I met at Hanscom Field on October 8 and boarded a chartered
turboprop, a TBM 850 (N302RJ) with two pilots and room for four passengers. We took
off at 2:00pm and arrived at Asheville Regional Airport at 5:00pm. Dick spent two days
inspecting property he owns near Asheville, and enjoying the Asheville experience. I
spent two days in meetings: two hours on the evening of the 8th , 9 hours on the 9th, and
five hours on the 10th. It was my inaugural meeting as chairman of the audit committee.
The only times Dick and I came together were for dinner at Fig, a great restaurant
near my hotel, and for the flight from Asheville to Norfolk, VA. Our plane departed at
2:00pm on the 10th. We arrived at 3:15pm and by 4:00pm we were on Myeerah at
Waterside Marina.
At 7:00pm we had a great dinner. Then we watched two episodes of NCIS
(reruns) and retired at10:00pm.
And so to bed…
Norfolk, VA to Coinjock,NC
45 nm, 7 hrs, 6.4 kts
On deck at 8:30am, after a sound sleep, to a cloudy and cool day. At 8:45am
Myeerah left the Waterside Marina and headed south on the ICW; an exotic pancake-andsausage breakfast was enjoyed as we passed the rotting hulks of decommissioned naval
vessels.
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Progress was very slow due to the many bridges, two requiring ½ hour wait each.
At 11:30am we reached the Great Bridge Lock, having traveled about ten nautical miles
in 2¾ hours. From that point on, the landscape changed from marine-industrial to
residential low marshland.
The narrow North Landing River was attractive, as always, but the riverside
marina and restaurant at Pungo Ferry at the river’s southern end had fallen on hard times,
and traffic on the river was sparse. We exited into Currituck Sound and headed on the last
push to Coinjock, arriving at 3:45pm. Once settled at the long face dock, sandwiched
between large boats, Dick and I went to the store.
The main attraction is the walls of tee-shirts from boats that have passed through.
Souvenir and Eitel Time, both from Naples, and News, Traveler, Red Baron—all familiar
from the past--were represented. But neither Myeerah nor Hilarium could be found.
Clearly, there is a conspiracy afoot!
At 4:30pm I went to my stateroom for some R&R. At 6:30pm Dick, Ben,
Meghan, Eric and I went to the Coinjock Marina Restaurant, home of the 32-ounce prime
rib. The place was hopping with locals and boaters. I had the “small” (16-oz.) prime rib
and it was very good. By 8:30pm we were back on Myeerah. Dick and I flipped through
some TV channels but found nothing. So we retired.
And so to bed…
Coinjock, NC to Swanquarter, NC
98 nm, 9 hrs, 10.9 kts
On deck at 8:30am, to another cloudy and cool day. At 9:00am, after breakfast,
Myeerah left the Coinjock Marina and headed south through the marsh country. After a
few miles we entered Albemarle Sound. After navigating a particularly shallow stretch
near Roanoke Island, the rest of the trip was far from land.
The clouds became heavier as we went south, and some rain fell. The afternoon
was spent reading, resting and being otherwise unproductive. At 6:00pm we dropped the
anchor off of the town of Swanquarter at the mouth of the Pamlico River.
At 6:30pm Dick and I started watching NCIS; the boat goes not get local channels
so CNN is the only news channel available. We have had enough of the Situation Room.
Following NCIS we retired.
And so to bed…
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Day 3: Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Swanquarter, NC to Charleston, SC
297 nm, 24 hrs, 12.4 kts
The engines roared to life at 7:45am, and by 8:00am we were headed up the
Pamlico River toward Goose Creek, which would take us south to the Neuse River,
across the Neuse, down Adams Creek and to Beaufort NC—a 75-mile trip.
The day started with heavy clouds, but as we reached Goose Creek the sun broke
through and the clouds cleared out. The ride down Goose Creek was very pretty, with
uninhabited marshes close on each side. At 11:15am we passed the Coast Guard Station
in the burg of Hobucken NC, then we entered the Neuse River.
We reached Adams Creek at 1:00pm, and exited at 2:15pm. It is a pretty ride,
with substantial houses on one side and bare dunes on the other. There has been a fair
amount of new housing construction on the creek. More to come?
We reached Beaufort at 3:00pm. Our original plan to stop there had been deepsixed: The weather is predicted to deteriorate, so we decided to pass Beaufort and go
outside all the way to Charleston, arriving tomorrow morning. We are supposed to have
6-foot seas on our port quarter, so it is manageable though not optimal.
But as we left Beaufort the sea was calm. We had a very nice ride under sunny
skies. At 7:00pm we had dinner, watched an old episode of Bones, and retired.
And so to bed
Day 4: Wednesday, October 14, 2009
In Charleston, SC
On deck at 7:00am, after a night of engine noise. We arrived at Charleston at
8:00am on Wednesday. Ben had taken only 2 hours off from the helm. There had been a
ground swell on our port quarter, but the wind had remained light and the ride had been
comfortable. The weather was very gray, with rain approaching, and it was cool and
becoming windy. So we had wisely used the weather window.
We docked at the Charleston City Marina and had breakfast. Soon after rain came
in, as forecast, and became heavier throughout the day, as forecast. It was a washout!
Rain off and on—mostly on—throughout the day. So we just hunkered down.
At dinnertime we learned that the wind had come up and the passage from
Beaufort now had 6-8 foot seas. So we ate in the dining room with a sense of great
satisfaction, having missed all that tossing around.
After dinner we watched some old NCIS shows. At 9:00pm we retired.
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And so to bed…
Day 5: Thursday, October 15, 2009
In Charleston, SC
On deck at 8:30a. It was gray and misty. Dick and I had a leisurely breakfast and
at 11:00am we all piled into a rented car for a jaunt. Our first stop was Drayton Hall, one
of the plantations on the Ashley River. We arrived in time for the noon tour.
Drayton Hall is unimpressive. Built in 1742, it was a rice plantation in its
heyday—though where the fresh water came from is a mystery as the Ashley River is
brackish. In its later years it was turned to phosphate mining and the house was
abandoned. When that played out, Drayton Hall became a vacation home for the Drayton
family. In the 1970s it was abandoned and left open to vandals and the elements.
Drayton Hall is a large, square, Georgian mansion in poor shape. The original 350
acres, once cleared, has become overgrown forest surrounding a large lawn bordered by
live oak trees. Its interior it is painted a bland and weathered blue-green. It is a lifeless
building, interesting to preservationists but, I suspect, not to many visitors.
At 1:00pm we left Drayton Hall to return to Charleston. We ate at Toast, a
middling restaurant on Meeting Street. After lunch we drove to the Battery and then up
East Bay Street, viewing the stunning mansions. I had just finished Pat Conroy’s book
South of Broad, about Charleston, so the drive seemed timely. Once we reached Broad
Street we turned toward the marina and at 3:00pm we were on board Myeerah. To our
delight, the sun had come out and it had warmed up.
At 4:30pm I went to my room to read and cogitate. Dick and I met on the aft deck
at 6:00pm, but it had turned cool and windy, so we went soon in to the salon. At 7:00pm
we had dinner in the dining room, after which we watched an episode of House. At
9:00pm we retired.
And so to bed…
Day 6: Friday, October 16, 2009
Charleston, SC to Beaufort, SC
57 nm, 7 hrs, 8.1 kts
The engines fired up at 7:45am and Myeerah departed for Beaufort at 8:00am.
After about two miles we were stuck at a bridge that wouldn’t raise until 9:00am. So we
had breakfast under a light drizzle with leaden skies and waited.
At 9:00am we proceeded on our way, passing through the South Carolina low
country with interesting houses, live oaks, and palmetto trees. This is the best section of
the entire ICW, even in bad weather! As we proceeded the tide was falling. At one point
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a very nice couple in a small boat guided us through some particularly shallow spots—
thank you, Jewel.
It remained dark with occasional rain. The trip was an occasion for some unusual
news: two F-16s collided over Charleston, a boat was on fire at a fuel dock, and a 35footer that had passed us earlier had gotten out of the channel and run up on a sand bar
near Beaufort.
We arrived at Beaufort for the 3:00pm bridge opening, and within five minutes
we were at the Downtown Marina. After arriving Dick took a walk into Beaufort’s
historic section. He returned to report that it was MCRD Parris Island’s graduation day
and parents with their newly-minted marine sons were wandering the area.
At 6:00pm we met for appetizers, and at 7:00pm we had dinner, followed by two
episodes of NCIS. We retired at 9:00pm.
And so to bed.
Day 7: Saturday, October 17, 2009
Homeward Bound
This was our last day. At 9:00am Amanda and Cullen Wentworth arrived with
Susan, Amanda’s mother. Susan lives on Hilton Head and Amanda and Cullen had been
visiting with her during our trip.
Susan drove Dick and me to the Hilton Head Island Airport, where we boarded a
charted Hawker 400 jet (N435CT) out of Elkhart, Indiana. At 10:40am we took off, and
at 12:20pm we landed at Hanscom Field. It was a surprisingly short flight because of a
120 mph tailwind.
My car was waiting, and I drove Dick to Alewife Station where his wife met him.
Was home by 1:00pm. Trip over!
Epilogue
In spite of the poor weather, I enjoyed this trip. Dick is a great traveling
companion, and Myeerah is a great way to travel. Ben, Eric, and Meghan were super so
we were well kept. Perhaps this could become a regular fall event!
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January 24 – 29, 2010
Charles Gaillard
Chris Palmer
George Vyverberg
Total Trip
92 nm, 9 hrs running time, 10.2 kts, 495 gallons at 55 gph
Prologue
This is my first trip on Myeerah since the trip down in October with Dick Kopcke, and
the inaugural trip for 2010. George Vyverberg, Charlie Gaillard, and I are going fishing.
Joan is going to Boston for corrective eye surgery. On Wednesday Charlie will leave and
Chris Palmer, a very good friend from Weston, will arrive.
Naples, FL to Russell Pass, Everglades City, FL
46 nm, 4½ hrs, 10.2 kts
On the way to the Yacht Club in T/T Myeerah I had forgotten that it was a
weekend and sped through a low-speed area, attracting the attention of Emerson, the
Naples Marine Patrolman on duty. He was very generous, giving me a warning rather
than a $90 ticket. I think he knows Ben!
By noon Gerorge, Charlie and I had gathered at Myeerah and she left. It was very
windy—gusts to 30 knots—but we discovered that the ride south was very comfortable
because the wind was from the southeast. On the way we watched the Colts-Jets playoff
game, won handily by the Colts.
At 4:00pm we approached Indian Key and I disconnected with T/T Myeerah to
scout at the shoal at the mouth of our anchorage. By 4:30pm Myeerah was settled at
anchor in Russell Pass, the only boat in sight. After reading and resting up from our
exertions, we settled in at 6:30pm to watch the Vikings-Saints playoff game.
After dinner on the aft deck we sat to watch the rest of the game. At 9:00pm I retired with
Patches and Smidgen, leaving George and Charlie to watch the Vikings lose in overtime.
The Superbowl will be an Indianapolis Colts-New Orleans Saints event.
And so to bed…
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At Russell Pass, Everglades City, FL
Awake at 7:15am and on deck at 7:30am to prepare for our guides arrival at
9:00am. The weather was lousy—overcast and very windy. Ben took Smidgen to the Rod
and Gun Club for a walk, pee, and poop. Patches was beside herself to be without
Smidgen—pacing frantically, refusing to settle down for about ½ hour. While he was
gone, Jim Ponder, our fishing guide, called and reported that a squall line was coming.
We delayed our fishing until 11:30am.
After a leisurely breakfast we waited for the squall, which arrived with 45-knot
gusts at about 10:30am. At 11:00am Jim called. It was still windy, but the squall line had
passed. So at 11:30am we and Ben hopped onto Ol’ Pelican, Jim’s pontoon boat, and we
headed into the backcountry. It was very gray and windy, but we are brave and intrepid.
The early results were good: Charlie caught a 29-inch redfish, too large to keep;
Ben caught a sheepshead, and George caught a trout. But after that things slowed down—
in the next 3½ hours I caught a trout (keeper) and several small groupers came aboard
and left. The sun came out, it warmed up, and it was a pretty afternoon. At 3:30pm we
bagged it and went back to Myeerah.
From 4:00pm to 6:00pm we rested and recovered. At 7:00pm we sat down to a
lobster and Portugese sausage newburg—yummy! At 8:00pm we watched House. At
9:00pm we retired to prepare for another trying day.
And so to bed!
Day 3: Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Awake at 7:30am and on deck by 7:45am. It was sunny but very cool, with a
breeze making it even more chilly. At 9:00am, after our breakfast, Jim arrived for our
second day of fishing.
Once again, we went into the backcountry. Eventually it warmed up and became
very comfortable. But the fish refused to warm up. Infrequently we landed small losers,
and by noon we had only three keepers, none particularly large. Then we hit a hot hole
and pulled in a good size sea trout and numerous mangrove snappers. It lasted for about
½ hour, at which time the current--and the fishing--died.
We tried several other spots with no success, and by 1:45pm we were back on
Myeerah for lunch, with Jim joining us. It was a gorgeous afternoon with little wind and
no neighbors. What a treat!
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At 2:30pm Jim left, proudly holding his brand-new Myeerah teeshirt. Ben,
Charlie, George and I took the dogs for a walk at the Rod and Gun Club. Neither dog did
diddly, and by 4:00pm we were back aboard for R&R.
Drinks in the salon and dinner inside (it was still chilly outside), followed by
NCIS at 8:00pm.
And so to bed…
Day 4: Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Awake at 7:30am. Once again a cool morning. After a leisurely breakfast, George,
Ben, Charlie and I, along with the dogs, took T/T Myeerah to Everglades City. Charlie
left us to go back to Naples, and Ben took the dogs for a walk.
At 10:00am we were back on Myeerah. At noon Ben, George, and I went into the
city for lunch at the Rod and Gun Club. It was warming up, and we had a good lunch.
After lunch we left for an adventure—going to the Chatham River to find the Watson
Place (from). I’ve wanted to see it ever since I read Killing Mister Watson.
We arrived at the Gulf end of the river at about 2:45pm. The river is wide but very
shallow, so we crept up it with occasional mild groundings. By 3:30pm we were within ½
mile of the Watson Place, but we had to turn around to get back to the Rod and Gun Club
to pick up our next guest, Chris Palmer, at 4:00pm. Getting out of the Chatham River was
harder than getting in because the tide was going out, but we made it.
We arrived at the Club at 4:30pm, ½ hour late. Chris was waiting patiently at the
dock. By 5:00pm we were back at Myeerah. After a brief tour and R&R period, we met at
6:15pm on the aft deck. The sun had set behind a veil of stratus clouds, and it was cool
again. But we had a nice time chatting.
At 7:30pm we sat inside for dinner. We broke up just before 9:00pm to listen to
President Obama’s State of the Union Address. This is a much-expected event because
the political environment may have changed dramatically with the election of Scot Brown
to replace recently-deceasedTed Kennedy as the Senator from Massachusetts: the Dems
have lost their 60-40 margin in the Senate.
After the speech—well presented but empty of substance—we retired.
And so to bed…
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Day 5: Thursday, January 29, 2010
On deck at 7:30am. It was warmer than previous mornings, and the high was forecast
in the high 70s. Soon George and Chris were on deck also, and we sat for breakfast.
At 9:00am our new guide, Jack Lloyd, arrived in his flats boat. Jack was recommended
by Jim, who was booked for the day. Jack is a former DEA agent who led the famous
raids on Everglades City and Chokoloskee in the early 1980s. He “met” a number of
locals, including Toch Brown.
We took off for the back country, fishing many of the holes that Jim had taken us to. The
day warmed up and it was delightful in the mangroves. But the fish were absent. A few
losers, and only one keeper—a trout. Disappointing, but still well worth it!
At 1:30pm we were back on Myeerah. The wind had died and it was warm and
sunny. Jack joined us for lunch and tld us about his life as a federal agent and, later, as a
member of the Colklier County Sherriff’s Office. He is a very interesting fellow.
The afternoon was spent on R&R. At 6:00pm we met on the aft deck—it was a bit
cool but much better than on previous days. After dinner we retired.
And so to bed…
Russell Pass, Everglades City, FL to Naples, FL
46 nm, 4½ hrs, 10.2 kts
On deck at 7:30am. It was warm enough to have breakfast outside, but there was a
heavy, gray cloud layer.
At 9:00am George, Chris, and I took T/T Myeerah to Goodland to show Chris an
old-time fishing village. The 45-minute trip was uneventful, though a bit brisk. By
10:30am we were back at Myeerah, and at 10:45am Myeerah departed from Russell Bay.
The ride to Naples was easy and the sun came out as we headed north. At 2:30pm
I disconnected at Gordon Pass in T/T Myeerah and took the dogs home. Then I went to
the Yacht Club to say goodby to George and Chris. Myeerah arrived at 3:45pm, goodbyes
were said, and I headed home with T/T Myeerah.
Le voyage c’est finis!
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Epilogue
This was one of my most enjoyable trips. The fishing was fun in spite of the chill,
and it was good company. It was also fun to see Chris and to introduce him to a bit of the
real Florida that was.
All went well on the boat, and Ben, Eric and Meghan were—as always—super.
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Naples, FL to Everglades City, FL via The Dry Tortugas
February 20 - 26, 2010
Chef Meghan Jussame
Jon Christensen
Fran Englehardt
Total Trip
274 nm, 23 hrs, 11.9 kts, 1,265 gallons at 55 gph
Prologue
Some weeks ago Joan and I had a lovely dinner at the Engelhardts, during which
we concocted this men’s’ fishing trip to the Keys. Jon and Fran were able to follow
through, but the third fellow, Fred Towers, could not.
I’ve been on fishing trips with Jon and Fran before—it has always turned out to
be brutally cold. We’ll see what happens this time! The forecast is good.
108nm. 9 hrs, 12.0 kts
At 9:00am Myeerah departed from the Naples Yacht Club with T/T Myeerah
under tow. The forecast was for a much warmer day (75
) than this cooooold winter has
given us, and very light winds.
The ride to the Dry Tortugas was easy, though the warmth didn’t materialize and
the wind was brisker than forecast. In fact, as we approached Fort Jefferson it was
gusting at 20 knots! Our first contact was a call from a Park Ranger discouraging us
(unsuccessfully) from coming into the harbor: according to him, a large boat had recently
run aground in the harbor. I attributed this to the usual warm welcome given visitors in
boats.
At 6:00pm we were settled at anchor and ready for drinks. We sat inside because
of the brisk wind, and had dinner at 7:00pm, after which we watched some of the Winter
Olympics (two-man luge).
And so to bed…
Day 2: Sunday, February 21, 2010
At The Dry Tortugas, FL
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Awake at 7:30am and on deck by 8:30am. It was sunny but the wind was still
brisk. At 10:00am, after breakfast, Ben, Jon, Fran and I went fishing. We first trolled
around the fort; Fran caught a large barracuda, but that was the only fish on.
Then we bottom-fished around the old coal pier, again with no success. Finally,
we trolled out of the harbor and around the sand-grass line on the shoals. Here we had
great success: a very large mutton snapper, a spanish mackerel, and several good fights
with fish that got away. I was about to land a large and vigorous seatrout when the line
broke!
While fishing we heard a Coast Guard Cutter and an NPS boat arranging a
meeting spot to transfer a PIW (Person-in-water) to the cutter. Both came into the harbor
just after we returned for lunch. It turned out that a man and wife had flipped in their
kayak on the way to Loggerhead Key. The man had stayed on the kayak while the
woman was swept away. Sadly, she drowned and the NPS boat had retrieved her body.
By 1:00pm we were back on Myeerah. It had clouded up and begun to rain. Will
this weather never stop?
After lunch I took a long and pleasant nap. At 6:00pm I met Jon and Fran in the
salon and we sat outside for a while watching fog roll in and feeling the 20-knot wind.
This drove us inside, where we sat for dinner at 7:00pm.
After dinner we watched the Canada-USA hockey game. Jon and Fran retired at
8:30pm, but I stayed on until 10:00pm watching House.
And so to bed…
At The Dry Tortugas, FL.
10 nm, 1 hr, 10.0 kts
It was a dark and stormy night--a terrible night. Gale Force winds (40 knots) and
rain through the night; the forecast had been for 10-20 knot wind. At 2:30am there was a
loud pop as our snubber line broke. Ben discovered that our anchor was dragging so
started the engines and we reset the anchor. He and Fran stayed up all night to be sure we
were safe from the sailboats anchored behind us. All seemed well until 6:45am, when a
grinding noise told us that we had slipped back into MH Daze, a sailboat behind us. It
turned out that our port stabilizer had hooked the sailboat’s anchor line, pulling its pulpit
into our side. Apparently the anchor had slipped so quickly that Ben had no time to avoid
collision.
After some effort we disentangled from MH Maze and took Myeerah out to Bird
Key anchorage. We then got a call from Blue Heron, a 40-foot catamaran that had been
anchored well off our starboard bow, claiming that between midnight and 2:00pm we had
swung on our anchor chain and our stern had clipped their dinghy; their dinghy and
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motor was gone! True, their dinghy was gone, but our role in the loss was questionable
because (a) Blue Heron had been well off our port bow and out of the way, (b) the owner
said that he had repeatedly called us on the radio after the event, but later the Park
Service Ranger on all-night duty reported that he had never heard Blue Heron call us, and
(c) there was no evidence that we were responsible (a parted line still attached to a cleat,
or a damaged cleat).
In the morning Ben took T/T Myeerah in to meet the victims and file an accident
report with NPS. The damage to MH Daze, the boat we actually hit, was a bent anchor
roller, which we saw was perfectly serviceable. To get this event over with, I paid MH
Daze $1,000 for pulpit repairs, which will never happen. I also paid Blue Heron $3,850
for the highly questionable dinghy and motor loss. Life is too short to fight the small
battles.
At noon, after the kerfluffle, we started out to Key West. We were heading
directly into five-to-eight footers and getting badly beaten up. After about ½ hour I called
an audible and we returned to Fort Jefferson, anchoring outside the harbor in Bird Key
anchorage. We will cancel the Key West fishing guide and head to Everglades City
tomorrow, when the weather is forecast to be much better (Hah!).
We arrived at 1:00pm. At 2:00pm we had lunch and decided to search for the lost
dinghy. At 2:00pm we took T/T Myeerah to Loggerhead Key and went south along its
east side. The further south we went, the less protection we had from high waves. We got
as far as the Windjammer wreck, and found that it was too dangerous to continue—waves
were breaking over the side of the boat. So we headed back to Myer, arriving at 3:30pm.
At 4:00pm I headed down for a nap. This had been a very troubling day!!! And
when I came on deck at 6:00pm it was a different world—the wind had died, and it had
warmed up. We sat outside for the 6:30pm sunset and for dinner (the red snapper that we
had caught—deliciously mild meat prepared perfectly).
After dinner we watched some ski jumping at the Vancouver Olympics. By pm
we retired. A terrible day is over!!!!!
And so to bed!
The Dry Tortugas, FL to Russell Pass, Everglades City, FL
108 nm, 9 hrs, 12.0 kts
On deck at 7:30m after an Ambien night. It was sunny, warm, and flat calm. What
a change! At 8:00am, Myeerah left for the trip to Everglades City. The weather remained
great, though by our 1:00pm lunchtime a cloud cover had arrived and it began to cool
down. At 3:00pm a light fog had settled.
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We spent the trip reading and talking. It was a very pleasant time. On the way I
called Jim Ponder to see if he could be a fishing guide tomorrow. He was booked, but he
found somebody else for us. What a nice guy!
By 5:00pm, when we arrived at Russell Pass, the fog was gone and a light wind
had arrived. As Myeerah anchored, Jon, Fran and I took a ride several miles up Russell
Pass, passing Hog Jaws, an old sailboat, and Coral Bay, an old trawler-type yacht from
London. Both seemed abandoned, but their dinghies were attached so the owners must
have been resting.
By 5:30pm we were back on Myeerah. Talk, Olympic luge, the PBS News Hour,
and the Nightly Business Report took us to 7:30pm, when we sat outside for a very good
dinner. By 8:30pm mosquitoes had driven us in and we watched a bit of Olympic
activity, retiring at 9:00pm. It had been a very nice day, particularly in comparison with
previous days.
And so to bed…
At Russell Pass, Everglades City FL
On deck at 7:45am. At 9:00am Jesse Karen, our fishing guide, arrived in a 27’
bathtub of a boat and we headed out to get fish. But at 9:30am a large violent
thunderstorm cell arrived from the west. It was a beautiful anvil front, and fortunately it
went north of us. But we headed back to Myeerah and heavy rain started as soon as we
arrived.
It was over in ½ hour and the sun came out, so we returned to the battle. Jesse was
a very interesting guide. Not only did we get a lot of fish (two spanish Mackerels, one
unusually large, and several large trout), but he also educated us in fishing by not just
telling us what to do, but why. He is a naturalist by inclination and education, who sold a
successful real estate agency to move to Port of the Isles and become a fishing guide.
At 1:30pm we were back on the boat. Jesse filleted our catch while we had lunch
(he was asked to join us but didn’t have time). We asked him about getting to the Watson
Place. He said that it was more doable by taking the Huston River to its junction with the
Chatham River.
At 2:45pm Ben, Jon, Fran and I started on an adventure: getting to the Watson
Place. We figured that though it was a falling tide, the water would still be sufficient to
make it as it was charted. But apparently Hurricane Wilma had negated the charts. When
we got to the mouth of the Huston River we soon found that small island on the charts
were no longer there, and that deep water spots (5 feet) were now very shallow—and vice
versa.
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To make long story short, we turned around at about 3:45pm and were doing well
until I hit a shoal. Though it happened at idle speed, we were stuck and the tide was going
out. Things looked bleak, but after about five minutes a fishing guide with four clients
sped by. He was good enough to advise us on the route out of our problem, then he spent
some time tugging us into deeper water.
We followed him out of the river, and headed home at high speed. Fortunately,
Fran noticed that the starboard motor was not peeing: otherwise it would have overheated
and self-destructed. After some effort we got the water pump cleared of the mud that had
clogged its flow. As we proceeded it began to rain.
We returned to Myeerah at 5:00pm, changed clothes, and at 6:15pm we took T/T
Myeerah to the Rod and Gun Club for dinner with nine NYC members who had come for
a fishing tournament tomorrow. It was a good dinner, and we had a great time swapping
stories and wisdom; well, mostly stories. At 8:30pm we started our return trip in a dark
and moonless night. It took three people: Jon handled the searchlight, Fran monitored the
chartplotter, and I drove. We reached Myeerah safely at 9:15pm and by 9:45pm we had
retired.
And so to bed…
At Russell Pass, Everglades City FL
On deck at 7:45am to sun, 45 degrees, and 20-knot wind—it was brutal. At
9:00am our regular guide, Jim Ponder, arrived in Ol’ Pelican. He reported that the fishing
prognosis was not good because it was so cold, and because the strong north wind had
pushed water out and combined with a low tide, had made it too shallow to get to some of
the good holes.
But we forged ahead. The first two hours were uncomfortable and unproductive
as we went from spot to spot. Jim said he would do the trip for free if we wanted to bag
it. I said we would give it another half hour. We then went to the hole where we had been
very successful on our previous trip with Jim. And the fish were there. We caught a large
trout, many mangrove snappers, several sheepshead, and some swamp grass. The wind
died and it warmed up, so we were doubly happy.
At 1:00pm we moved to another hole where I caught a large trout. At 1:30pm we
returned to Myeerah. Jim filleted the fish while we ate lunch in the warm pilothouse.
The afternoon was spent recovering from our exertions. At 6:00pm we gathered in
the salon, and at 7:00pm we sat inside for dinner. After dinner we watched women’s
downhill skiing, and by 9:00pm we retired.
And so to bed…
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48nm. 4 hrs, 12.0 kts
On deck by 8:00am. It was very cold, about 50
, with a north wind at about 15
knots. We had planned to try the Watson Place again before heading back to Naples. But
it was just too cold.
At 10:30am Ben donned his diving gear to clear some lines from the port
propeller. Then at 11:15am Myeerah left Russell Pass with the tender in tow. It was
sunny with clear skies, and still very cold.
The ride to Naples was very nice. At 2:45pm I disconnected with T/T Myeerah
outside Gordon Pass and took her home. Jon and Fran continued on with Myeerah to the
Naples acht Club, arriving at 3:15pm. It was over!
Epilogue
This was the best of times and the worst of times. The fishing and the
companionship were great. I had a lot of fun and adventure with Jon and Fran; they are
great friends and mates.
But the weather sucked, and the night of the Big Bump was absolutely no fun,
though nobody was hurt and it turned out better than it could have. But the Dry Tortugas
are definitely off my list. As Ben pointed out every time we go there is some problem.
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March 9 – 12, 2010
Chef Meghan Jussame
George Vyverberg
Total Trip
92 nm, 9 hrs, 10.2 kts, 495 gallons at 55 gph
Prologue
Another fishing trip to Everglades City. George Vyverberg has agreed to join me. A
Naples Yacht Club friend, Ken Weg, was also supposed to come but he developed
muscle spasms in his back and couldn’t make it.
46 nm, 4½ hrs, 10.2 kts
At 9:45am I took the Pursuit to Myeerah and met George. It was a windless
morning, with heavy overcast. At 10:00am Myeerah left the dock. The ride to the
Everglades was great—flat calm. We arrived at Russell Pass at 2:30pm.
At 4:15pm Ben, George and I tried for the third time this year to get to the Watson
Place. This time we would attempt the Chatham River on a rising tide. It was still gray
but windless, and we arrived at the mouth of the river at 4:45pm. The ride up the river
was very slow, but at 5:20pm we arrived—finally—at the Watson Place. It was heavily
wooded, but had an open area for camping. Lots of tents were up and about 20 canoeists
were eating dinner.
There was not much to see. The foundation of the old boathouse, a large wok-like
pan probably used to boil sugar cane for syrup, several low fireplaces, the supports for
the Watson house, and large cistern. But at least we had finally done it.
We left the dock at 5:35pm. The ride down the river was easy because of the
rising tide and because we followed our up-river trail. By 6:45pm we were back on
Myeerah.
We sat inside for dinner at 7:30pm—it was still cool outside. At 8:30pm we
watched the last ½ hour of NCIS, then a new episode of Lost. At 10:00pm we retired.
And so to bed…
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I uncharacteristically awoke at 7:00am and thought it was 8:00, getting on deck
by 7:30am. It was not until I called Joan and she remarked on how early it was that I
realized my mistake. But at least it was sunny and warm enough for an 8:30am breakfast
on the aft deck. At 9:45am, Jack Lloyd, our fishing guide, arrived. Ben had to stay with
the boat because an air conditioning technician was coming, so Eric joined George and
me.
We headed into the mangroves with high hopes of lots of fish. We soon hit a spot
where I caught several keepers (whiting) and others caught small releasers. After that
there was a long dry spell as we jumped from spot to spot. At 1:30pm we returned to the
hot spot and Eric caught a keeper (silver trout). By 2:15pm we were back on Myeerah
having lunch while Jack filleted our catch. Ben had just returned the tech to Everglades
City: everything was working properly.
The afternoon was spent recuperating from the earlier exertions. I finished
Churchill, Paul Johnson’s adoring biography, and began Bill Brysons memoir of
childhood, The Life and Times of the Thunderbolt Kid. Bryson, the author of A History of
Nearly Everything, is both erudite and funny—an outstanding writer.
At 6:00pm George and I had appetizers in the salon, then dinner on the aft deck;
with the exception of the lights of Everglades City in the distance, clouds made for a very
dark night. At 8:15pm we moved inside to search the 500 DirectTV channels for
something worth watching. But to no avail—we watched an old Bones, then retired at
9:00pm.
And so to bed…
On deck at 8:00am. It was gray and a bit windy, but warm. At 9:00pm our guide
du jour, Jim Ponder, arrived in Ol’ Pelican and we went into the backcountry. I’m
beginning to know where I am there—almost.
We jumped from spot to spot for four hours. With the exception of a brief episode
of rain, we had good fishing weather—warm but overcast with a good breeze. We caught
lots of keepers—mangrove snappers, sheepsheads, one trout and a whiting—as well as a
number of releasers. The best spot, now dubbed “Old Reliable,” is the spot that has been
successful every time we’ve been with Jim. He says that he doesn’t take anyone else
there!
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At 1:00pm we were back on Myeerah ready for a good lunch. Jim ate with us,
then filleted the fish before heading home. George and I watched the news for a while,
then retired at 4:00pm. I to read the New York Times crossword puzzle, George to nap
and watch TV.
At 6:30pm we met in the salon and watched the PBS Newshour, then we had
dinner—our daily catch, baked in parchment—on the aft deck. At 8:00pm we began to
cast around for TV shows. Finding none, we settled on the Military Channel’s
documentary on listenng and camera decices used by the US and USSR during the cold
war. At 9:00pm we retired.
And so to bed…
52 nm, 5 hrs, 10.4 kts
On deck at 8:30am to a warm but very overcast morning, with light fog in the
distance. At 9:30am Myeerah left Russell Pass and soon entered thick fog. As we headed
west past Cape Romano Shoals the sea was reasonably calm with a low ground swell.
George and I read and napped until lunch at 12:30pm. At 1:30pm we approached
Gordon Pass just as a strong squall with 45-knot winds, gusting higher, hit. So we trolled
about three miles up the coast waiting for it to abate. At 2:15pm we entered Gordon Pass
with a 6-7 knot head current. The east wind had pushed mountains of water into the Pass,
and it was gushing out, leaving he wakes as it passed the navigation aids. What a sight!
Once we were well inside the Pass, I disconnected with T/T Myeerah and headed
home. George continued with Myeerah to the Yacht Club, arriving at 2:30pm.
Epilogue
This was a very nice and easy-going trip. Once again, the weather could have
been better. But George and I have spent countless hours together on the water, and I
always fid him an easy companion.
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March 16 - 18, 2010
Second Mate and Chef Meghan Jussame
Passengers Peter And Joan Fortune
Lara, Ben, Jacky and Maddy Balter
Total Trip
Prologue
This is our first NYC cruise of 2010. It coincides with Lara’s visit, so we are all
going to enjoy a few days on Captiva Island with about 100 of our best friends. Because
we have to leave early on Tuesday to catch the high tide coming in to Captiva, we are
staying on Myeerah on Monday night.
Joan, the girls, and I arrived at Myeerah at 6:00pm. Lara, Ben, Jacky, and Maddy
arrived at 6:30pm after an uneventful flight from soggy, flood-riven, Boston. At 7:30pm
we sat inside for dinner, and at 8:00pm we watched House, then 24.
And so to bed…
41 nm, 3½ hrs, 11.7 kts
On deck at 9:15am, after a night of fighting for territory with the dogs. The
engines had started and we were leaving Naples Bay. As we left Gordon Pass we
encountered northwest seas of 3-4 feet. Some felt queasy, so much napping was done as
we headed north toward Redfish Pass.
We arrived at South Seas at 12:45pm. After the dogs had walked we sat on the aft
deck for lunch. After lunch Lara and Joan walked; Ben and Ben went to play golf, Ben
was along to drive the cart. Ken Weg, the cruise organizer, dropped by and Don Wingard,
whose Good Fortune was docked next to us, also checked in.
At 6:00p we all walked to the “Docktail,” the welcoming event for the NYC. It
was very cool and overcast. After chatting with friends for 45 minutes, Maddy and Jacky
found some new friends and went to the game room while we were at the Docktail. We
all returned to Myeerah for dinner while the other NYC members ate a potluck dinner.
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Following our 7:00pm dinner inside (too cold outside) Ben, Jacky, and I we
watched NCIS and Lost, while Joan and Lara watched American Idol. At 10:00pm we
retired.
And so to bed…
At South Seas Plantation, Captiva Island, FL
On deck at 7:30am after a mediocre night sleep: a mild gastric disorder hit me at
3:00am. The NYC golf tournament was scheduled to start at 8:30am—my team is the
defending champion. Ben Balter will replace Ken Weg this year, and Ben is rarin’ to go.
But it was cold and rainy (Will this EVER stop?) so the tournament was cancelled; in its
place a nine hole tournament was scheduled for 10:30am. That tournament did start. Our
team—Ben, John Stewart, Charlie Gaillard, and me—did our best. We tied for low gross
score, but lost on net score.
At noon we were back on Myeerah for lunch, after which we read and napped
until 6:30pm. I had an especially long nap, and felt much better when I awoke. Dinner
was on the aft deck with all children present, two wearing our Russian naval hats. It was
chilly but with fleeces on it was OK.
At 7:30pm we went inside to watch a DVD of Inglorious Basterds. Joan and I had
watched the (terrible) 1978 cult classic Inglorious Bastards before this trip—awful
acting, location shots all in the same spot, and a banal story. But the new movie is very
different and well worth seeing, if only for its style. At 11:00pm we retired.
And so to bed…
South Seas Plantation, Captiva Island, FL to Naples, FL
41 nm, 3½ hrs Naples, FL to, 11.7 kts
On deck at 8:15am. It was sunny but still cool and windy. This was planned as a
day of leisure with tomorrow being the return date. But most NYC members left today, as
did we.
At 10:00am Ben and I started nine holes of golf. With nobody in front of us we
finished the par-3 nine-hole course in less than an hour. Ben parred every hole, while I
had mostly 4’s and a few 3’s. We were back on Myeerah by 11:00am. Lara and Joan
were walking, but they soon returned and at noon exactly Myeerah started the trip back to
Naples.
The ride back was comfortable. We had lunch outside, everyone huddled in
blankets and jackets. At 3:00pm we reached Gordon Pass, and at 3:30pm we were at the
dock. Home by 4:00pm. C’est finis!
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Epilogue
This was not a very good trip. The weather was cold and windy, with periods of
rain. This has been the worst weather year-to-date in southwest Florida for decades, and
there was no break for this trip. On top of that, my gastric disorder on the one day of
scheduled activity kept me from enjoying the social life.
The good news was that the boat was working, as was the crew. Meghan, Ben,
and Eric spent many happy (?) hours entertaining Ben, Jacky, and Maddy. Ben took the
girls jet skiing twice, and drove Ben for a round of golf on the day we arrived. That was a
big plus! And it was super to be with Lara and her kids.
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NYC Cruise to Sarasota and St. Petersburg
April 11 – 17, 2010
Dick and Clair Mohn
Total Trip
270 nm, 25¾ hrs, 10.5 kts, 1,416 gallons at 55gph
Prologue
This is the main NYC overnight cruise of the season. The destination is Sarasota,
then on to St. Petersburg. For the first time since January we have had a ten day period of
warm and sunny days, so the prognosis is good. We are leaving a day before the rest of
the fleet because we cruise at a slower speed.
Our guests are Charlie and Jane Gaillard, who are among the usual suspects, and
Dick and Clair Mohn, who are new to Myeerah. We have met them several times at club
events and dinner parties, and Clair is among Joan’s bridge buddies.
The night before departure was the Welcome Aboard evening at the NYC, when
members could inspect boats and then have dinner at the Club. We joined the Gaillards
for that event, then slept on Myeerah so we could have an early morning start.
Naples, FL to Venice, FL
78 nm, 7 hrs, 11.1 kts
On deck at 8:30am to overcast skies with a brik east wind. After a light breakfast
our guests arrived. At 9:45am we left the dock. Just after 10:00am we left Gordon Pass
and headed north. It was calm because of the land breeze, so the ride was comfortable.
There is a rumor that whenever I am on a boat the weather is bad. It must be true,
because at 11:30am we were hit by a squall with wind gusts of 50 knots, accompanied by
thunder and lightning. By noon the squall had passed leaving behind white caps that
knocked us around for another hour.
At 2:00pm. After lunch, we turned the TV on to watch the fourth and last day of the 2010
Masters Tournament. Tiger Woods started close to the leader but faded during the day, as
did Lee Atwood, the previous day’s leader. Phil Mickelson, who had jumped into
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contention yesterday with two back-to-back eagles followed by a near-eagle birdy, played
a strong game.
We passed Steve Anderson’s My Cyn and, as we neared Venice, Bob Wilson’s
Illumination. At 4:15pm, with the sun finally out, we arrived at Venice Inle and docked
at the Crow’s Nest Marina. Soon after Illumination came in, then at around 6:00pm, My
Cyn arrived.
The Masters Golf Tournament wound up at 6:30pm, just as appetizers and drinks
arrived; Phil Mickelson won for the second time. At 7:00pm we sat down for dinner on
the aft deck, and a major storm cell blew in with heavy rain and wind. So we moved
inside.
At 9:00pm we watched the fifth episode of The Pacific, then at 10:00pm we
retired.
And so to bed…
Day 2: Monday, April 12, 2010
Venice, FL to Sarasota, FL
15 nm, 2½ hrs, 6.0 kts
On deck at 8:30am, breakfast at 9:30am, and off the dock at 10:15am. It was
windy and slightly cool, but sunny. Illumination followed behind as we slowly went
north on the ICW. The waterway was bordered by houses and docks, and blocked by four
bridges that had to open for our passage.. All in all it was a very pleasant trip!
At 12:45pm, after passing through the last bridge, we arrived at Marina Jack’s in
Sarasota. It is a very upscale marina with an art deco style restaurant, to which we backed
up. It nestles inside a well-kept waterfront park, and is looked down on by high
residential buildings.
At 1:30pm we sat for lunch on the aft deck, watched by tourists eating at the
restaurant. Gordon Watson dropped by to tell us that Larry King’s Passages, a 45’ Sea
Ray, had gotten outside the channel in Lemon Bay. He was running fast and went so hard
aground that it will be the next spring tide before Sea Tow can refloat it—perhaps two
weeks! It seems that on every trip there is some disaster!
At 4:00pm Ben returned from Enterprise Rental with a Chevy Suburban. A short
excursion around Sarasota followed. At 6:00pm we all went to “Docktails” at Marina
Jack’s for a bit of schmoozing. By 7:00pm we were back on Myeerah ready for dinner.
As we sat on the aft deck for dinner a big wind arrived—WILL THIS NEVER
END? So, once again, we moved inside for a great sea bass dinner. After dinner we
watched 24, then retired at 10:00pm.
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And so to bed…
Day 3: Tuesday, April 13, 2010
In Sarasota, FL
On deck at 8:45am to a sunny—but windy—morning. What’s new?
At 10:30am we all left for the Ringling house and museum. It is on 66 acres
developed by John and Mabel Ringling in the 1020s. The main attractions are the
grounds, the circus museum (with a gigantic elaborate model of a circus area), the circus
transportation museum (circus wagons, train cars), a world-class art museum showing
Ringlings’ collection of Old Masters, and Ca d’Zan (“House of John”), a magnificent
Venetian-style mansion right on Sarasota Bay. It is well worth a visit!
At 1:30pm we drove to St. Armands Circle, a high class shopping area, nd at at
the Columbia Restaurant, an offshoot of the Tampa restaurant started in 1905. The meals
were large and very good. The Mohn’s very generously treated us all.
By 3:00pm we were back on Myeerah. Charlie and Jane decided to walk to the
nearby botanical Gardens, but the rest of us settled in for showers and naps. Then at
6:45pm we walked 50 feet to the cocktail party and dinner at Marina Jack’s. The dinner
started at 7:00pm, and was pretty good though the service was slow.
At 9:00pm I left early to catch Lost. Joan stayed with the table, returning at
9:30pm. At 10:00pm we retired.
And so to bed…
Day 4: Wednesday, April 14
Sarasota, FL to St. Petersburg, FL
35 nm, 4 hrs, 8.8 kts
On deck at 9:45am to sun with the usual brisk east wind. After breakfast, Joan,
Jane, Clair and Meghan went to shop for costume jewelry at Patrice’s, while Ben returned
the car; the ladies would take a taxi back. We were on a short schedule because we had a
tide to catch—some shallow spots on the ICW to St. Petersburg were a concern.
At 10:30am all were on board, and at 10:45am Myeerah left Marina Jack’s. The
ride to St. Petersburg was slow—long waits at two bridges plus some very shallow and
narrow sections—but it was warm and sunny. The brisk east wind was still with us, and
as we entered Tampa Bay we experienced some rocking.
We had lunch in the pilothouse at 1:30pm and reached the Vinoy Marina at
2:45pm. The other NYC boats were being tossed round by the waves cming in from the
east, but we were comfortably stable—a very pleasant surprise!
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The remainder of the afternoon was spent walking, reading, and resting. At
6:00pm we all walked to the Vinoy for the NYC cocktail hour. By 7:00pm we were back
on Myeerah. At 7:30pm we sat outside for dinner. But when Man plans, God laughs—
once again we moved inside because of the wind.
At 8:45pm we finished dinner and moved to the salon for talk and laughs. By
9:30pm we were in our rooms.
And so to bed…
Day 5: Thursday, April 15
In St. Petersburg, FL
On deck by 8:15am to continued wind and sun. It had been a calm night’s sleep in
spite of the tossing that other boats were getting. After breakfast Ben drove us on a tour
of the residiential area---Old Northeast and Snell Island. Clair had lived on Snell Island
as a child so she was our guide. The houses—including the house she was raised in—
have been preserved in their original condition. They are very attractive and give a strong
community sense.
After our tour Joan and I went to the Salvador Dali Museum near the Vonoy
Resort. It was a surprise to see how many art formshe worked in—traditional painting
surrealism, jewelry, floral prints. He even had an interest in alchemy. Oh, those Spaniards
(Picasso, Miro, Dali, etc).
At noon Ben picked us up and returned us to Meerah. Soon after, the Mohn’s left
for lunch with her brother and sister-in-law, Joan left for lunch with Mary, and Ben and I
joined the Gaillards for lunch at a nearby restaurant. During lunch a few small dark
clouds rolled by, leaving very light rain sprinkles.
By 2:00pm we all but Joan were back on Myeerah. Joan arrived at 2:30pm and
Jane, Joan, Clair and Dick sat down for some bridge. I retired to read.
At 6:30pm we were driven to the St. Petersburg Yacht Club for the last supper. It
was a good dinner, and a last opportunity for most of us to gather (some will go to
Longboat Key tomorrow).
By 8:30pm we were back on the boat. The staff at the SPYC had departed before
us, terminating the evening early! At 9:00pm we retired.
And so to bed…
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Day 6: Friday, April 16
St. Petersburg, FL to Useppa Island, FL
85 nm, 7¼ hrs, 11.7 kts
On deck at 8:45pm—still windy but now cloudy. A line of NYC boats departed at
9:00pm, and we left the Vinoy Marina at 9:45am. The east wind was still brisk as we
headed out of Tampa Bay, but it turned to the southeast as we headed down the coast
toward Useppa Island. As the day proceeded the sun came out and the seas were about 23 feet.
At 1:30pm we had lunch on the aft deck, and at 2:00pm we passed My Cyn on the
same course. Steve and Cynthia Anderson, with John and Betty Pearson, refused to wave
back at us; no doubt they were embarrassed by their speed as we thundered by at 12
knots! At 4:00pm we passed the Wilson’s Illimination, poking along at the mandatory ten
knots. The slow boats were on parade!
At 5:00pm we dropped anchor off of the northwest end of Useppa Island, just
outside of the Useppa Island Club docks. It had been a very pleasant ride down from St.
Pete.
At 6:30pm we all sat on the bow and talked until called to dinner at 7:15pm.
Dinner was on the aft deck, a rare opportunity. While there were cloudy skies, the sun set
below them giving an orange orb falling into the trees on Caya Costa.
At 8:30pm we sat inside to watch Up in the Air, one of the best movies of 2009. It
is about a man whose life is spent flying over 300 days a year to destinations where he
fires people. An equally footloose woman comes into his life, making him question his
lack of commitment. It turns out that while he begins to feel a commitment to her, she is
married with family and views him as “…a parenthesis.” The gender tables are turned! At
10:15pm we retired.
And so to bed…
Day 7: Saturday, April 17, 2010
Useppa Island, FL to Naples, FL
57 nm, 5 hrs, 11.4 kts
On deck by 9:00a to overcast but warm weather. Ben had taken the tender to land
to walk the dogs and get newspapers. When he returned we got set to leave, and at
9:30am the anchor was up and we were on our way.
We had breakfast as we exited Boca Grande Pass. The east wind put us in the lee
so it was very comfortable as we passed Caya Costa, Captiva, and Sanibel Islands. It was
very vercast, but no rain arrived. At 2:30pm we were tied up at the Naples Yacht Club.
C’est finis!
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Epilogue
Our very first NYC cruise in 2005 had been to St. Petersburg. At that time we
experienced repeated thunderstorms and often-torrental rains. In spite of that, we
thoroughly enjoyed the trip and the opportunity to meet new people.
This trip has been equally delightful, especially since the seas have been calmn
when we were underway and, in spite of a wind that kept us inside more than we wished,
the weather was very good. The brutal cold of the year-to-date had given way to a
comfortable warmth.
We enjoyed our guests. Charlie and Jane are always a pleasure. The Mohns were
cheerful, witty, very easy to be with, and a complete delight.
On top of it all, Myeerah ran like a charm. What more could one want?
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Cruising the Bahamas: Harbour Island and the Exumas
May 9 – 24, 2010
Jon and Hetty Christensen
Total Trip
387 nm, 36½ hrs, 10.6 kts, 2,008 gallons at 55gp
Prologue
This is the annual excursion to the Bahamas before returning to Boston. Our
guests for the first week are Jon and Hetty Christensen and Fran and Janette Engelhardt.
The second week is solo. Myeerah has been waiting at Nassau’s Atlantis Marina for a
week.
At 11:00am on Sunday, May 9 (Mother’s Day), we all gathered at Naples General
Aviation for a one-hour flight to New Providence Island on a chartered Pilatus: six people
two dogs, and one pilot. The flight was very calm, arriving at 12:15pm. A quick pass
through customs and we were on a van to Atlantis.
We arrived on Myeerah at 1:15pm, settled in, and had lunch. The afternoon was
spent investigating Atlantis—the casino, the aquariums, the pools—followed by watching
the end of a riveting PGA Players’ Tournament.
At 7:00pm we went to the sun deck for sunset and drinks. Then we had dinner on
the aft deck. At 9:00pm, after dinner, we watched the penultimate episode of The Pacific,
about the progression of the Marines from island to island as they approached Japan.
And so to bed…
Nassau, New Providence Island, Bahamas to Harbour Island, Bahamas
60 nm, 6¼ hrs, 9.2 kts
Off to a late start—on deck at 9:00am after a poor night of sleep fighting with
Smidgen for space on the bed. It was very warm with bright sun. Jon ad Hetty had just
returned from the Atlantis clinic, where she had gotten medication for a sore throat.
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At 9:30am we had breakfast on the aft deck, and at 10:00am Myeerah left Atlantis
and headed for Spanish Wells, where we would meet Woody for a trip through the
Devil’s Backbone to Harbour Island.
As we got several miles east of Nassau a large rain cloud approached. In the
distance was an impressie sight: a sizable waterspout. However, it all passed behind us,
leaving a clear day. As we neared Royal Island we passed Pole Star at anchor: a 208-foot
yacht that had arrived to go to Harbour Island but couldn’t do it because of a 12-foot
draft. Arriving at Royal Island at 3:00pm, we dropped the anchor to wait for our 5:00pm
appointment with Woody at Meek’s Patch.
At 4:45pm we met Woody and started our trip through Spanish Wells and the
Devil’s Backbone. Woody regaled is in his quaint accent with stories of island life. There
were beam seas coming over the reef as we passed the McGlennon’s house on Eleuthra,
then the famous Preacher’s Cave. Followed by a 45-foot sportfishing boat, and behind
another sportfisherman led by a guide, we crawled to our dock at Harbour Island Marina.
Our favored spot, Valentine’s Marina, was full; apparently, there is a big fishing
tournament this week. We arrived at 6:00pm.
At 7:00pm we sat for dinner with two empty seats—Jon and Hetty were at a
medical clinic having her sore throat attended. They returned just after salad—good
news: it wasn’t strep, and she got amoxicillin.
After dinner we watched the first lecture of Justice, the lectures on political
philosophy of Harvard’s Michael Sandel. More to come…
And so to bed…
At Harbour Island, Bahamas
On deck at 8:30pm after a decent sleep. It was overcast, but looked hopeful.
Today is Janette’s 69th birthday, an event we expect to celebrate wildly at their expense.
After breakfast we kicked back for a bit. Then at 10:30pm we started off on golf
carts to explore Harbour Island. We visited the Pink Sands Hotel and the adjacent Coral
Sands Hotel, we tracked down Sip-Sip, a highly recommended lunch spot, and we did a
bit of shopping.
At 12:30pm we went to Rock House for lunch to celebrate Janette’s birthday.
Unknown to us, they no longer serve lunch to the public, but we walked in and they
decided to serve us. At the table next to us were the owner and some hotelemplyees doing
a tasting of the menu for the renovated-and-soon-to-open Dunmore House. We struck up
a conversation with the owner, Mr. Tuttle III, the self-described “arbiter of good taste in
the Americas and beyond.” The lunch was very good, and the shared deserts were
outstandingly divine: red velvet cake, “turtle ice cream cake,” and rum cake.
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After lunch we returned to Myeerah and took the tender to the beach on
Eleuthra’s northern tip for a swim. It was delightful!
We were back on Myeerah at 4:00pm. After naps, we met in the salon at 6:30pm
for news and appetizers. Dinner outside was uproarious, with more laughter than normal:
Fran was really on. Memories, like the youthful joys of oleo-coloring, flooded over us.
After dinner I retired to watch the almost-final episode of Lost in our stateroom.
The others watched more of Justice in the salon. Unfortunately, Harbour Island is at the
edge of DirectTV service area, so Lost was lost.
It had been one of the best birthdays I’ve had, and it wasn’t even mine.
And so to bed…
On deck at 9:00am; sunny, warm, and breezy. After breakfast Jon and Fran
walked to Valentine’s Marina to inspect the fishing boats awaiting tomorrow’s
tournament. The ladies went to the aft deck for a conspiratorial discussion (what are they
plotting?). Today is a day for more subdued celebration—we have designated it as
Hetty’s birthday so we can justify any excesses.
At 12:30pm we started off in the golf carts for the Blue Bar on the ocean beach at
Pink Sands Hotel. As we arrived it began to spit rain, but that quickly ended. We had a
very filling lunch on the Christensen’s tab, then went to Rock House for desert. Hetty and
Jon also throw great birthday parties. Afterward we toured the eastern end of the island,
then returned to Myeerah at 4:00pm. By acclamation it was nap time.
6:00pm was meeting time in the salon. At 7:30pm we had dinner on the aft deck.
After dinner we watched the third lecture of Justice: Bentham’s utilitarianism and a
modern consequence, cost-benefit analysis involving the value of life.
And so to bed…
Harbour Island, Bahamas to Highbourne Cay, The Exumas, Bahamas
88 nm, 7¾ hrs, 11.4 kts
On deck at 7:00am for Woody’s arrival. At 8:15am we started through the Devil’s
Backbone, followed by a 50-foot power catamaran. At 9:30am we were through Spanish
Wells and were on our way toward Nassau. Before reaching Nassau we would turn
southeast and go over the Yellow Banks to Highbourne Cay.
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The southeasterly leg toward Nassau was very pleasant: sunny with a slight
following sea. The order of the day was reading and lounging. There was some bad news,
however: an email reporting that Janette’s brother-in-law, who is dying of pancreatic
cancer, was rushed to the hospital last night. We have gotten no further information.
After turning to the southeast we had the seas on our port bow, and it got a bit
rough. At 4:00pm we entered Highbourne Cay Marina. All but Fran and I had been
napping much of the way, so they were ready to party. I was not, so while others walked
and went to the beach, I went down for a nap.
Once again we met at 6:00pm in the salon and had dinner on the aft deck (though
it was windy). After dinner we watched the fourth lecture of Justice, this one John Stuart
Mill’s interpretation of utilitarianism and the problem of measuring pleasure.
And so to bed…
Highbourne Cay, The Exumas, Bahamas to Sampson Cay, The Exumas, Bahamas
42 nm, 4¼ hrs, 10.0 kts
On deck at 9:00am. Everyone was out swimming, but they all returned at 9:30am.
At 11:00am Myeerah left Highbourne Cay and traveled at a leisurely pace down the west
(banks) side of the Exumas.
Our first stop was off Norman’s Cay. There was a 30-40 knot east wind kicking
up whitecaps (even with a short fetch) when we arrived at 12:15pm. But we dropped the
tender and the men departed for a tour. It was a very wet and convoluted ride: wet
because of the waves, convoluted because of the backtracking required to finally avoid
shallow areas and get to the channel into the harbor. Once there, we visited the ancient
plane wreck, viewed the old resort ruins, then returned to Myeerah.
We had lunch in the pilothouse, and at 2:00pm we departed for Sampson Cay.
Our original plan had been to anchor off Bell Island and take the tender to the coral reef
aquarium at Obrien Cay for snorkeling. But our previous experience with wind and water
led us to table that plan.
The afternoon was spent watching Something’s Got to Give, a Diane Keaton-Jack
Nicholson movie. At 5:00pm we arrived at Sampson Cay, docking on the outside in front
of Adventurer, a 100-foot old-style Burger. In one of those weird small-world
experiences, one of Adventurer’s guests was the owner of Blue Heron, who had copped a
free dinghy in the Dry Tortugas!
After walks, and talk in the salon, we sat for dinner on the aft deck. A stiff east
wind was blowing, but we are hardy folk. After dinner we watched one more Justice
lecture: Libertarianism. Adam Smith, Robert Nozick, Ron Paul. Government should not
restrict individual choices unless those choices adversely affect others.
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And so to bed…
Sampson Cay, The Exumas, Bahamas to Staniel Cay, The Exumas, Bahamas
5 nm, ¾ hrs, 6.7 kts
On deck at 9:00am. It was overcast and still very windy,. This is Joan’s 68th
birthday, so it is a very special day.
At 11:00am, after breakfast, all six of us left in the tender for a ride up to
Compass Cay Marina, then down to Staniel Cay. Myeerah moved from Sampson Cay to
Staniel Cay while we were touring.
The ride to Compass Cay was uneventful. At Overyonder Cay, just north of
Sampson Cay, what had been a simple island resort (the Tamarind Club) had been
replaced by an expanded marina and heavy construction of cottages. Compass Cay
Marina was full, including two Flemings: Exodus, a 65-footer, and a 55-footer.
We returned on the western side of the atoll, encountering some heavy chop and
crossing back to the inside between Kemp Cay and Rat Cay, just above Overyonder Cay.
Passing Sampson Cay and Fowl Cay, we headed toward Staniel Cay on the east side of
Big Major Spot. On the way we encountered a large wrecked sailboat that had been
driven onto that island. We passed Thunderball Grotto and arrived at Myeerah at
12:45pm. There was another Fleming 55, Black Diamond, at the dock!
At 1:30pm we sat for lunch on the aft deck, watching the boat traffic around
Staniel Cay. Of particular interest was a couple who arrived on a small boat and tied to
the dock about 6 feet above them. There was no ladder there, so we watched with some
dread as they tried to climb up on the dock. Ultimately they were successful, but at what
a risk!
At 3:00pm we all went to the beach on the west side of Big Major Spot. There
were 25 boats anchored there, but our interest was the feral pigs. Five of them were on
the beach rooting around. They started swimming toward us as we threw bread and
lettuce to them. We beat a hast retreat before they could board us!
By 3:45pm we were back on Myeerah. Showers and reading time went until
5:30pm. I went with Jon and Fran on a golf cart tour of the cay. One stop was a grocery
store to buy Joan a birthday card.
At 6:30pm we were back on the boat for appetizers and drinks. After dinner we
watched another lecture of Justice: Libertarianism ala Nozick and Milton Friedman, with
an ending on John Locke.
And so to bed…
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Staniel Cay, The Exumas, Bahamas to Sampson Cay, The Exumas, Bahamas
5 nm, ¾ hrs, 6.7 kts
Awake at 7:15am for an early breakfast. Our guests are flying out on Flamingo
Air’s 8:45am flight to Nassau, then to Ft. Lauderdale. It is sunny and very comfortable,
with the lightest wind we’ve seen in days.
At 8:30am we all went to the airstrip. In true Bahamian fashion, the hours spent
on the phone had been only partially effective: flight confirmations had been faxed to
them, but the agent on Staniel Cay insisted on the actual tickets. Eventually those were
faxed to her, so all was well.
The incoming flight arrived at 9:15am and disgorged several passengers. Then it
filled up with outgoing passengers. Fran rode in the copilot’s seat; he was grinning from
ear to ear. At 9:30am they took off.
We returned to Myeerah and at 10:30pm we started the slow trip back to Sampson
Cay, where we had the same spot we had left yesterday. Just after we arrived Sir Jon II, a
90-foot sportfisherman, arrived. She is owned by the owner of Sandal’s Resorts, which
owns Fowl Cay (now called Royal Plantation Island Resort). It turns out that one of
Ben’s captain buddies now manages the resort and runs the boats.
After lunch we lolled around for most of the day. The quiet was wonderful, but it
would also have been great to have a couple of days more with our friends.
At 3:30pm Joan and I walked to the interior harbor beach for a ½ hour swim. We
swam off the stern of Promise, an 80-foot Hatteras from Ft. Lauderdale. She had been in
the same spot last year—the owners stay at Sampson Cay for much of the summer! The
water was cool but very refreshing, but at 4:15pm we returned to Myeerah. On the return
walk we passed Pathfinder, a Fleming 55. This was the fourth Fleming I’ve seen in the
area.
At 6:30pm we sat in the pilothouse for dinner. The weather was beautiful, but the
flies were hungry! After dinner we watched two lectures of Justice: John Locke’s view of
natural and unalienable rights to life, liberty, and property mixed with governments right
to take them. At 9:00pm we watched the last episode of The Pacific.
And so to bed…
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At Sampson Cay, The Exumas, Bahamas
Awake at 8:30am and soon on deck to a beautiful day: low wind, strong sun, and
clear skies. Breakfast was on the aft deck (the flies were still sleeping). The morning was
spent at leisure.
At 1:30pm we went to the little Sampson Cay restaurant for a surprisingly good
lunch. While we were there Eric and Meghan took the tender to Staniel Cay for
provisions. At 3:00pm the tender was back so Joan and I got into swim suits for a tender
ride, followed by a swim.
We first went past Fowl Cay to check out the boats moored in the anchorage west
of Big Major Spot. Then we went to Overyonder Cay, where a great deal of construction
was under way—a new marina, cottages, and houses. We checked out the backside of
Sampson Cay, with its small community of locals next to the airstrip. Finally, we
returned to the Sampson Cay harbor and swam behind Promise for a few minutes.
At 4:30pm we were back on Myeerah. Joan, with Eric’s invaluable assistance,
washed the dogs and blew them dry, while I rested from my labors. At 6:30pm I went up
to the salon and Joan went down to shower after her labors.
At 7:00pm we sat outside for dinner. We were soon driven back in by the flies.
After dinner we watched two Justice lectures: Locke’s notion of consent to be governed,
and its implications for military conscription and parental surrogacy.
And so to bed…
Sampson Cay, The Exumas, Bahamas to Highbourne Cay, the Exumas, Bahamas
45 nm, 4 hrs, 11.3 kts
Awake late and on deck at 9:30am. There was a gray overcast, but winds were
light for our trip to Highbourne Cay.
At 11:30am we left the dock. At noon we heard a report of a sailboat burning a
few miles out. According to the report it was abandoned and “no problem.” But we
investigated anyway. It was one of the small wooden Bahamian coastal sloops that carry
goods from island to island. Plumes of black smoke had given way to white smoke, but
there were still flames visible from below the deck. Nobody was on board or floating
nearby, so we went on our way.
Unlike our earlier transit to the Exumas, it was very calm and a wonderful ride.
We read, ate lunch in the pilothouse, and lolled around until our 3:30pm arrival at
Highbourne Cay. Just before arrival the overcast had given way to bright sun, nice!
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Soon after arrival Joan and I walked to the beach for a swim. It was delightful—a
great white beach, calm water, no rocks. By 4:30pm we were back on Myeerah reading
and showering.
At 6:30pm we sat in the salon watching CNN’s take on the day’s news. We had
dinner on the aft deck, but once again, flies made it uncomfortable so we moved inside
for dessert and coffee. Soon we were watching Justice: Immanuel Kant’s Critique of
Pure Reason on the roles of Motive, Reason, and Autonomy in defining morality.
And so to bed…
Highbourne Cay, The Exumas, Bahamas to Harbour Island, Bahamas
82 nm, 7¾ hrs, 10.6 kts
On deck at 8:45am. We had departed Highbourne Cay at 8:30am. It was hot,
sultry, overcast, and calm. CNN reported that Arlen Spector—longtime Republican
senator from Pennsylvania recently turned Democrat—lost in a primary election. Good
riddance! He was OK when he was our son of a bitch, but not when he’s theirs!!
At 12:30pm we sat outside for lunch. It was still overcast, but warm and calm, and
no flies. What a great ride! As we approached Spanish Wells a slight rain began. It was
calm enough that we wouldn’t have to pass through Spanish Wells, so at 3:15pm we met
Little Woody off Bridge Point for another trip through the Devil’s Backbone.
Woody tied Lil Woody up, hopped aboard, and put the peddle to the metal; if we
hit a reef we would be on it till the end of time! But he did slow up as we went through
the especially skinny patch; a ferry going the other way just kept on trucking
At 4:15pm we reached Harbour Island Marina in a light rain. Joan took the dogs
for a walk. They left fluffy and returned scraggy and bedraggled.
At 7:15pm we sat inside for dinner. After dinner, more Justice: Kant and John
Rawls on just contracts; Kant emphasized autonomy and duty to the categorical
imperative, Rawls argued for a veil of ignorance--disinterestedness from particularities
(ethnicity, wealth, health, etc).
And so to bed…
On deck at 10:00am, after a long sleep. It was warm and mostly cloudy. We had
breakfast on the aft deck and lolled around until lunchtime.
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At 1:00pm Joan and I took the golf cart for lunch and a tour. Lunch was at SipSip, overlooking the atlantic. It was very good, very busy, and very pricey! Well worth it,
but not often. Our golf cart tour consisted of traveling the same circuit we’ve traveled
before—nothing new there.
At 3:00pm we were back on Myeerah. Reading, dog walking, and watching CNN
took all of our time until 7:00pm dinner on the aft deck: wonderful osso bucco. A slight
breeze kept the flies away. During dinner a mid-size fuel tanker arrived to fill the dock
storage tanks; we would see that tanker or sister ships for several days. That and a nice
sunset were the only happenings. After dinner it was time for another two lectures on
Justice: John Rawls on Distributive Justice; a person has the right to the fruits of natural
talents only if it benefits the poorest.
And so to bed…
On deck at 9:15 am to sun, warmth, and light wind. Our fuel tanker is still
anchored off our stern. Today is another day without expectations or responsibilities.
After breakfast we read and groomed the dogs. At 1:00pm we walked to
Aquapazza, the marina’s restaurant, for lunch. After asking the waitress what would a
hamburger look like if I ordered medium rare, I was told “It would look medium rare.”
Knowing that this was island talk for “Deal with it!” I ordered medium rare and got well
done.
At 3:00pm we returned to Myeerah and took the tender for a ride. We first passed
down the row of marinas: Ramora Bay, Valentines, and the Government Dock (where the
natinal celebration was blaring). Among the boats we saw was Gratitude, a Fleming 75;
the fifth Fleming seen on this trip.
Then we went to our favorite beach. The wind had become brisk, but our swim
among the turtles was warm and very pleasant. At 4:30pm we returned. On the way we
could see several sportfishing boats planing through the cut on large waves; one mistake
and the boat is toast!
At 6:30pm Joan and I sat in the salon watching CNN for a hint of the day’s news.
Dinner outside was very pleasant, with music wafting from two sources: the town center,
where celebration of a Bahamian national holiday on Monday was underway, and a
private party at Aquapazz.
After dinner we watched two more lectures in Justice: Affirmative Action and the
role of “desert” in distributive justice (is distributive justice correlated to the notion of
“deserving”? Are justice and virtue connected?)
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And so to bed…
On deck at 9:30am. Another sunny day but cooler and more windy. We sat for a
very light breakfast and watched the little red tanker deliver fuel to the Ramora Bay
Marina next door.
After breakfast we watched two more lectures of Justice: Aristotle’s teleology:
Justice is what serves the purposes of the practice in question, and it is inextricably
connected with the notion of virtue. The virtuous person, who fits the role best, should
reap the rewards.
After Justice it was time for a light lunch. It was still windy and a bit cool, so we
bagged the idea of a swim. Instead, Joan and Eric would wash the dogs while I settled in
for some reading: a short, Pulitzer-prize-winning novel called Tinkers. It is one of those
out-of-the-woodwork surprises, like 1981’s Confederacy of Dunces. It’s a sad, elegiac,
Thomas Wolfeian story of three generations of men in an inconsequential family.
At 3:00pm, while Joan and Eric were dog-washing again, Ben and I took the
tender for a short ride around the harbor. By 3:30pm we were back and the tender was put
back on the boat deck. At 5:00pm I finished Tinkers: a very idiosyncratic but powerful
book. My next book is Justice, the hardcopy offshoot of the Harvard course
At 6:30pm we gathered in the salon, and at 7:00pm we sat outside for dinner. The
deep bass thumps from the island celebration music had gone on all day, and continued
through dinner. It sounds like the same beat, so it must be recorded and played over and
over.
After dinner we watched another two episodes of Justice: To what community
should you be obligated?
And so to bed…
Harbour Island, Bahamas to Nassau, New Providence Island, Bahamas
60 nm, 5 hrs, 12.0 kts
The engines started at 6:45am for our 7:00am meeting with Woody for the return
to Nassau. I dozed until 8:00am while Woody led us, followed by two boats, to Bridge
Point.
The ride to Nassau was comfortable, with a 3-4 foot sea on our starboard quarter.
On the way we passed one of the small fuel tankers as it headed to Nassau for a new load.
Joan, the “girls,” and I read and dozed as we headed southeast (well, the girls just dozed).
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We came in the east side of Nassau/Paradise Island, passing Adventurer (the 94-foot
Burger we had been with at Sampson Cay) as she left for the States. We also passed the
enormous Carnival Lines cruise ship Oasis of the Seas as she was moored on the Nassau
side. She swarfed another cruise ship moored next t her.
At 12:00pm we arrived at Hurricane Hole Marina and backed in next to Black
Diamond, the Fleming 75 we had seen at Staniel Cay. After lunch Joan and I walked to
the shopping village at Atlantis. While Joan shopped for Allie’s graduation and birthday
presents, I checked out the boats and the people. Jimmy Buffet’s Continental Drifter III
was in the high-rent part of Atlantis Marina (we had seen Continental Drifter II at
Hurricane Hole a few years ago).
By 3:30pm we were back on Myeerah. At 6:30pm went to the salon for news. For
the first time in two weeks qwe have local (network) channels. Thank God—tonight is
the finale (after six years) of Lost!
At 7:30pm we sat outside for the last supper. After dinner we watched the last two
Justice lectures. Then I watched the final finale of Lost until 11:00pm.
And so to bed…
Epilogue
At 10:00am on Monday the 24th we took a taxi to the Odyssey FBO at Nassau
airport. At 11:15am our light jet took off for Bedford MA’s Hanscom Field, a customs
stop and our destination. We arrived at Hanscom at 2:30pm. Lara met us and took us to
Weston. C’est finis! Myeerah would start north to New Hampshire on Wednesday the
26th, weather permitting.
This has been a very good cruise. The week with the Christensens and
Engelhardts was great fun—a good time was had by all. Our week alone was at an even
slower pace—lots of reading, learning, and contemplating. I read Brian Green’s massive
The Fabric of the Cosmos, an excellent survey of gravity, quantum mechanics, and
cosmology; I also read Tinkers and started Justice. Joan read From the Heart, Laura
Bush’s autobiography, and started on Tinkers.
The weather was generally good, unlike last year’s rain-filled trip. There was little
rain, no storms, generally light to moderate winds. And Myeerah worked well, with very
few glitches, all fixable by Ben.
What made this such a good trip was the crew. Ben, Eric, and Meghan were on
for 24/7 but always were pleasant, helpful, and faithful to their jobs. Meghan’s cooking
was a step up from previous levels: it has always been very good, but now it was
outstanding. We are very proud of them all. They make Myeerah a super experience for
us and for our guests.
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Cruising Long Island Sound
July 19 - 23, 2010
Chef Meghan Jussame
Sud Ellwood
John Pearson
John Stewart
Total Trip
163 nm, 17¾ hrs, 9.1 kts, 800 gallons at 45 gph
Prologue
This is the week of the Second Annual Bridge Boot Camp in which Joan, Lynne
Ellwood, Jane Gaillard, Betty Pearson, and Milly An Stewart gather with a bridge teacher
to continue their assault on the mysteries of bridge. Last year it was held in Maine at the
homes of Betty Pearson on Sebago Lake and Jane Gaillard in York. This year it has been
organized by Joan and is held at the Chilton Club in Boston.
The Exiled Men are taking a cruise on Myeerah in eastern Long Island Sound.
Everyone had gathered at the Chilton Club by 3:00pm when I picked up Sutherland
(“Sud”) Ellwood, John Pearson, and John Stewart. They, along with Smidgen, Patches,
and me, drove to Newport Shipyard at Newport, RI to meet Myeerah. We arrived at
5:15pm. It was very busy, being Race Week in Newport.
Newport Shipyard was filled with large boats, including Joe Fogg’s Keewaydin
and Pangaea, a very large expedition yacht.
At 6:00pm we gathered on the aft deck for appetizers. After interesting
discussions ranging from politics to fishing, we enjoyed a baked lobster dinner. At
8:15pm we went to the salon to catch some Justice, the DVD of Michael Sandel’s
Harvard course. I retired at 9:00pm; the others stayed on to watch a second lecture.
Newport, RI to Mystic, CT
38 nm, 4½ hrs, 8.5 kts
On deck at 8:00am to a very warm but overcast day. The sailboats were preparing
to leave for the races as we ate a hearty breakfast on the aft deck. Ben had brought
newspapers so we were all set for the morning.
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At 9:30am we left the Newport Shipyard. There was a light south wind with
ground swells as we passed Point Judith and headed westward. At about 11:00am we
entered an area of squalls with heavy rain. This lasted until we passed Fisher Island and
entered the Mystic River at 12:45pm.
We followed Mamu VI about our size, from Palatine, IL, up the river. The trip
was slowed by a wait for the 1:40pm opening of the railroad bridge at Mystic. But at
2:00pm we were at the Museum and docked at a new (for us) spot. Mamu was in our
traditional spot.
The sun came out just after we arrived, heralding a magnificent afternoon. John,
John and Sud toured the Museum while I took Patches and Smidgen for a walk. Neither
did anything meritorious, but they did meet a small Shitzon (Shitzu-Biscon mix) who was
taking its nice family for a walk.
John Pearson and Sud returned to Myeerah by 3:30pm, but John Stewart was not
with them. By 4:30pm we were worried about him, and called security to keep an eye
out. By 5:00pm we were very concerned. Ben had been out searching for him for quite a
while. Finally, he was found. He had been engrossed in some of the exhibits, so there was
no problem. Thank God!
At 6:00pm we gathered in the salon, and at 7:30pm we sat outside for an excellent
lamb dinner. The humidity had disappeared and it was calm and very beautiful. At
9:00pm I retired to read while the others watched another two episodes of Justice.
And so to bed…
Mystic, CT to Essex, CT
27 nm, 3¾ hrs, 7.2 kts
On deck at 8:15am to a dry, warm, and sunny morning. It had not been a great
night: Smidgen had insisted on sleeping in the salon, and Patches had to join her. At
about 12:30pm they both started barking, and I had to get up to bring them down. They
accepted this relocation, and slept well. But I didn’t!
After a waffle breakfast (yummy!) we took the tender on a ride to the head of the
Mystic River, a mere two miles but with very shallow water: we bumped bottom quite a
bit. At 10:15am we were back on Myeerah. At 10:35am we left Mystic Seaport in time
for the 10:40am bridge opening; at 10:45am we passed through the bridge. We only
encountered one rude shout from a sailor on the ride down the Mystic River: a banner
day!
The ride to the Connecticut River was wonderful: almost flat calm, warm (though
overcast). At 1:00pm we sat outside for lunch just as we came into Old Saybrook, CT.
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This was an ancestral location for Joan and the original home of Yale College. Cheroso, a
large green-hulled yacht, was at the Old Say Brook Marina. She had been there on
previous visits, so Old Saybrook must be her home port.
The ride up the river was pleasant but slow, requiring a wait for a railroad bridge
opening. At 2:00pm we arrived at the Essex Yacht Center. After settling in, Ben went to
get a rental car for us. Ben and I then went to a nearby pharmacy to get a few day’s
supply of medication that I had left behind.
On returning I read until 6:00pm, when the four of us took the short (30 second)
ferry ride to Essex Village for dinner at the Griswold Inn. “The Gris” is the oldest
continuously operating Inn in America, have started in 1801. Good food and a great
Revolutionary War-era ambiance.
At 9:00pm we were back on Myeerah having had a wonderful dinner and the
usual bright conversation. Another two episodes of Justice were the evening’s
entertainment, but I soon retired with Patches and Smidgen.
And so to bed…
Day 3: Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Essex, CT to Sag Harbor, Long Island, NY
39 nm, 3¾ hrs, 10.4 kts
On deck at 8:15am. Ground fog covered the river, but by 9:30am it had lifted and
become hot and humid. After breakfast John Pearson and Sud walked to a nearby store.
At 10:30am John Stewart, Ben, and I met at the car and we drove to the Essex Railroad
Station for our hour-long steam train ride.
The train left at 11:00am. The ride was disappointing because the route along the
river was through heavy vegetation that hid any interesting views. Probably 15 minutes of
the hour-long trip was taken shifting the engine to allow it to pull the train back.
Apparently, there is a dinner train that goes farther up the river and runs through open
territory, but this ride was abbreviated and obscured.
We were back on Myeerah at 12:20pm. Ben retured the van and we sat for lunch
at 1:00pm.At 2:15pm, after a great swordfish salad lunch, we left Essex Yacht Center and
headed up the river as far as the Gillette Castle at Hadlyme. Then we went downriver to
Old Saybrook and into the Sound. We arrived at our anchorage between Shelter Island
and Sag Harbor at 6:00pm. A thunderstorm was throwing lightning bolts to the north.
The thunderstorm passed directly over us, leaving driving rain and a recorded 68knot wind, equivalent to a category 1 hurricane). Within ten minutes the squall had
passed. But more squalls came through. So we had dinner inside for the first night on this
trip.
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After dinner I retired with “the ladies” while John, John, and Sud watched the last
two lectures of Justice.
And so to bed…
Sag Harbor, Long Island, NY to Block Island, RI
35 nm, 3½ hrs, 10.0 kts
On deck at 8:30am to a bright, cool, but windy morning. We had breakfast
outside, reading the newspapers that Ben and John Pearson had picked up in Sag Harbor.
At 10:00am Ben, Sud, John Stewart, Smidgen, Patches and I took the tender into Sag
Harbor. Ben walked the dogs while John and Sud walked through the town. I rode around
the harbor looking at boats. Sag Harbor has a lot of large boats, some very pretty. Jimmy
Buffet’s 130-foot Continental Drifter III was there, as was Bayou, a 110-foot blue-hulled
Burger with an amphibious car, styled like a Studebaker, on its boat deck. Carbon Copy,
last seen in the Bahamas, and Far Niente were also there. Summerwind, a 150-foot Cheoy
Lee, had honors as the biggest boat.
Continental Drifter III
Bayou with Car
At 11:00am we were back on Myeerah. At 11:30am, after bringing the tender on
board, we set out for Block Island. The trip to Great Salt Pond was eventful. The
forecasted 10-15 knot wind ran eastward at 20-25 knots. On the way we passed a
submarine headed for New London, and as we approached the channel into Great Salt
Pond we passed a sailboat whose spinnaker had come loose and was blowing free, held
only by its top line to the mast; how it would be retrieved is a mystery to me. Just after
this we followed a Sea Tow boat towing a disabled 50-foot sailboat into the Pond; A
Coast Guard RIB was following them.
At 3:00pm we were in the Pond, but it took another 20 minutes to find a safe spot
to anchor. The wind was still brisk, so Ben was concerned about the anchor dragging. We
settled next to an old tugboat that I remember from previous trips. Soon after we had
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settled in a gorgeous 12-meter J boat anchored near us. Later a unique 35-footr power
boat arrived at raft with it. Other sailboats also settled in, but the wind was dying down so
our concern about congestion abated.
J Boat wth Tender, Block Island
At 6:00pm I got a call from Steve White. He and Ginna were also at Great Salt
Pond, in Teal IV, their 36-foot Catalina. I invited them for drinks and dinner; they arrived
at 6:30pm. We all had a nice time together, and an excellent dinner. At 9:30pm they
returned to their boat and I retired with the ladies to read.
And so to bed…
Block, RI to Newport, RI
24 nm, 2¼ hrs, 10.7 kts
On deck at 8:30am after a better nights sleep. It was heavily overcast and coolish.
After breakfast we laid back until 10:15am, whren we took the tender to a marina to meet
our tour taxi. The tour took about 1½ hours. It was my third time but the first for
everyone else. We all agreed that Block Island was a nice place for a short visit.
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At 12:00pm we were back on Myeerah, and at 12:30pm we left Great Salt Pond.
The trip to Newport was very comfortable—no wind, an occasional mist but no real rain.
We arrived at Newport Shipyard at 2:45pm.
At 5:00pm it began to rain, and at 6:00pm Ben drove us to 41 North, a restaurant
on Thames Street, where we enjoyed a very good dinner in a bright modern setting on the
water. By 8:30pm we were back on Myeerah. At 9:15pm, after a long discussion of
favorite movies we have seen, I retired with the ladies to read and sleep. It was raining
heavily.
And so to bed…
Epilogue
We had breakfast and left at 9:30am for the drive back to Boston. At 11:00am we
arrived at the Chilton Club where we dropped Sud and John Stewart off. Betty and John
Pearson, and Joan and I, then drove back to Weston where they had left their car. Another
fine trip was over!
We have had good weather and interesting stops in our brief hop around eastern
Long Island Sound. The girls and I are ready to be back home with Joan, but we will have
good memories of time well spent.
Meghan served fine meals—there was far too much eating and far too little
willpower. Eric and Ben kept the boat in fine shape, ready for our next trip in a few days.
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To Falmouth, MA
July 29 – August 3, 2010
Chef Meghan Jussame
Passengers Peter and JoanFortune
Total Trip
50 nm, 5 hrs, 10.0 kts, 275 gallons at 55 gph
Prologue
Last year we had to pass on our usual trip to Falmouth on Cape Cod, where Lara
and family rent a house for the summer. So we decided to sandwich a trip into the
schedule this summer.
Myeerah had stayed in Newport after the Long Island Cruise. On July 27, after
Hilarium left the Nicholas dock at Falmouth Harbor (bound for Nova Scotia), Myeerah
moved to Falmouth and took Hilarium’s spot.
On Thursday, July 29 Joan and I drove to Falmouth to meet Myeerah, arriving at
about 3:00pm. Lara came by with Ben and Maddy. At 7:00pm they all went to Judy
Balter’s for dinner. Had picked up a bug so I stayed on Myeerah.
In Falmouth Harbor
On deck at 7:30am after a very bad night. At Joan’s urging we had left the
stateroom door open Smidgen went upstairs to the salon, and was unable to come back
down on her own. So she barked off and on throughout the night. Each time Smidgen
barked, Patches would leave our bed to find out what was so exciting; then she would
return. Between the barking and the to-and-fro-ing, there was no good sleep. Against all
odds, Joan slept through most of it.
Friday was spent mostly on Myeerah. Lara, Allie, Ben, and Maddy came in the
morning, then they left with Joan to go to the Willow Bend Golf Club in Mashpee for
lunch. At noon I drove to meet them. The Club they belong to is very nice: built by Paul
Firestone, the clubhouse is very nice with great views of the 18th green.
We had a nice lunch and I returned to Myeerah. At 4:00pm Joan was dropped off.
I took a good—much-deserved, nap. At 7:00pm Ginny and Pete Nicholas arrived for
dinner. Lara and Steve arrived with Ben and Maddy. We had a nice dinner inside (it was
cool outside), ad at 10:00pm everyone left.
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And so to bed…
Falmouth Harbor to Falmouth Harbor via West Falmouth
25 nm, 2½ hrs, 10.0 kts
On deck at 9:30am after a good night: Smidgen and Patches were no longer freerange dogs. Joan and I had a light breakfast and Lara arrived. After Lara had a noon
lunch, she and Joan drove off to get Ben to his driving lesson: a requirement to convert
his learner’s permit to a full license.
At 1:30pm I had a light lunch. The plan was that at 2:00pm Joan and Lara would
return and Myeerah would leave on an extended afternoon and sunset-dinner cruise. At
3:00pm Lara and Joan arrived, having left Ben to wait for the instructor. By 3:15pm
Myeerah was leaving Falmouth Harbor. Our destination was West Falmouth Harbor,
where Lara’s house is. On the way we cruised by Liberty Hall, Peter Nicholas Jr’s
mansion on Chapaquoit Island in West Falmouth: Peter was there to wave at us.
At 4:30pm we were anchored off of West Falmouth Harbor. We dropped the
tender and Joan, Lara, and I went into the dinghy dock to pick up Steve, Ben, and Maddy.
By 5:30pm we were back on Myeerah heading through Woods Hole to Falmouth Harbor.
We were dockside at 6:45pm.
At 7:00pm we had dinner outside. Lara, Allie (who was at work), and Maddy
decided to sleep on the boat. At 8:30pm we disbanded and Lara left to pick Allie up after
work. Steve and Ben went home so they could leave early in the morning for Vermont,
where Ben had a golf tournament. Joan and I retired.
And so to bed…
In Falmouth Harbor
On deck at 9:15am. Lara was out for a long walk. Joan and I had breakfast and
then Lara took another walk with Joan. At noon Joan, Lara, Maddy, and I started off on
an adventure. The weather was perfect—sunny but comfortably cool with no humidity.
We drove along the coast to Woods Hole, passing our old rental house at Nobska
Point and Katie Nicholas’s multi-housed estate at Woods Hole. Then we parked on
Woods Hole’s main street, across from Pie in the Sky, Allie’s workplace. After a quick
visit to watch Allie working the cash register, we went to the Landfall Restaurant for
lunch with a view of the harbor.
After lunch we returned to Pie in the Sky for coffee and a cookie. Then we drove
to Lara’s house at West Falmouth Harbor. It was once a grand house set on a large lawn
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facing the harbor. It now is a rather poorly kept summerhouse: the owners took out the
heating system and eliminated many of the fine touches, such as paneling and
wainscoting. But it is very serviceable and they enjoy it.
At 3:30pm we were back on the boat. I took a luxurious nap while Joan and Lara
walked and chatted. At 5:00pm Lara, Allie, and Maddy went to a beach party in West
Falmouth, returning at 6:30pm. Joan and I sat outside for dinner at 7:00pm.
After dinner, Lara and Joan watched a DVD of We Own the Night, a Mafia movie
with Joaquin Phoenix; I dropped out early to read, having seen the movie.
And so to bed…
Falmouth Harbor to Falmouth Harbor via Osterville
25 nm, 2½ hrs, 10.0 kts
On deck at 9:45am to a gorgeous day with low wind, sun, and cool but
comfortable temperature. Lara and Joan were walking while Meghan was playing
hunchback with Maddy, carrying her around on her back). At 10:30am we all had
breakfast and at 11:15am Myeerah left on her adventure du jour: a trip to Osterville and
Cotuit. The Sound was calm! As we left Falmouth Harbor we noticed a small singleengine plane flying extremely low along the coast toward Woods Hole.
At 12:45pm we dropped anchor well offshore. Ben, Lara, Joan, Maddy, and I took
the tender to Osterville. It was a long trip into and through West Bay, past the Wianno
Yacht Club and under the bridge. We docked at Crosby Marine and ate at the Islander
Restaurant at the docks. Then everyone but me walked into town for an ice cream cone.
On their return we took a long ride through North Bay, into Cotuit Bay, and back to
Myeerah. The ride was gorgeous: magnificent waterfront houses and a beautiful
coastline. We arrived at 4:15pm to the news that a small single-engine plane had crashlanded in the water a few miles away. The plane had been doing aerial photography and
experienced engine trouble. The two passengers escaped with little harm. We are sure it
was the plane we saw over Falmouth.
We started back to Falmouth at 4:45pm. At 6:00pm we were docked. After a
7:00pm dinner with Lara and Allie the trip was over. Allie and Lara left, and Joan and I
retired to read.
And so to bed…
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Epilogue
After breakfast Joan and I drove back to Annisquam. This has been such a great
trip. We’ve had fun with Lara and family, and the weather has been super. It doesn’t get
better than this!
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August 15 – 22, 2010
Chef Meghan Jussame
Passengers Peter and JoanFortune
Steve and Harriet Toadvine
Total Trip
447 nm, 38¼ hrs, 11.8 kts, 2,104 gallons at 55 gph
Prologue
This is the fourth annual NYC Cruise in Maine, arranged this year by Dick and
Ann Silven from Orcutt Harbor, ME. The venue is Penobscot Bay. We will connect with
the NYC in Castine for the first two nights, and in Southwest Harbor on Mount Desert for
the last night. In between we will do a side trip to Roque Island, the most pristine
anchorage in Maine. Curiousle, a book review of a family Memoir by one of the owners
of Roque had just appeared in the New York Times.
Our guests are Harriet and Steve Toadvine, who, in July, hosted Joan at the
Wianno Club Bridge Tournament in Osterville on Cape Cod. I have met Steve through
the Monday Boater’s Lunch at the Naples Yacht Club.
Annisquam Village, MA to Portland, ME
65 nm, 5½ hrs, 11.8 kts
At 10:00am the Toadvine’s arrived in Annisquam, having driven from Osterville
in a record time of two hours. We were still getting organized, so at 10:30am we loaded
onto Drag On, our tender for the trip, and headed out to Ipswich Bay to meet Myeerah.
At 11:15am the anchor was raised and we were on our way to Portland. The forecast was
for sun and light winds. However, as we proceded the wind picked up and the seas did as
well; fortunately, they were on our starboard quarter.
We had lunch inside at 1:00pm, then continued to read and relax until, at 5:45pm,
we arrived at the fort outside Portland Harbor. After disconnecting Drag On, Steve and I
proceeded to DiMillo’s where we waited for Myeerah to moor at the fuel dock. We
refueled Drag On and Ben took her to another spot for the night. The wind was cutting
across the harbor at 25 knots, and whitecaps were slapping against Myeerah. So much for
5 to 10 knot winds.
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After dinner We talked for a bit and I retired early, having come down with a
cold.
And so to bed…
Portland, ME to Castine, ME
90 nm, 7½ hrs, 12.0 kts
On deck at 7:30am for an 8:00am departure in rain and light fog. The wind had
died down a bit, but there were 4-6 foot waves on our beam as we exited Portland and
turned “down east.” As we proceeded, we were occasionally buffeted by especially large
waves on our starboard beam. Things crashed, fell, or just slid. The dogs were in distress,
as were we. Ben took to tacking our way through the mess. No fun!
After about 3 hours we achieved more stability as we approached Muscongous
Bay. At 12:30pm we turned northward into Penobscot Bay, putting the seas on our stern
and easing the ride. A 1:00pm lunch inside, watching the fog-bound isles of the
Penobscot Bay slip by, was followed by additional sitting, reading, and so on.
At 3:00pm we approached Castine, and at 3:30pm we were anchored deep into
Smith Cove, where there was some relief from the wind. Steve, Harriet, Joan and the girls
took the tender to Castine to walk, while I tried to nap. The napping was thwarted by the
onset of a cold that I had been fighting for a couple of days.
At 5:30pm we all piled into the tender for another ride to Castine for dinner at the
Pantagoet Inn with the other NYCers. The Inn had been the site of lodgings for British,
French and American officers (at separate times) in the 18th century. There were 18
NYCers: four from Myeerah, six from the Wilson’s Illumination, two from Pacquet V,
and four drivers. The Inn had great ambiance and, according to most reports, very good
food. We and the Toadvines sat with Richard and Barbara O’Leary, new club members
from Ogunquit.
At 8:15pm we returned to the town dock where Ben was waiting, and at 8:30pm
we were back on the boat. After a nice chat, we retired.
And so to bed…
In Castine, ME
On deck at 9:30am after a great night with Mrs. Ambien. The cold I’ve been
fighting has now won, so the sniffles, drips, and coughs are here. Still, the temperature is
warm, the sun is out, and the wind is low. All in all, a good start.
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Steve and Eric were in at the Maine Maritime Academy learning about their cargo
ship simulator. Steve enjoyed crashing the cargo ship into a cruise ship: fortunately, no
lives were lost. On their return, I took the tender back to pick up Joan and Harriet. By
12:30pm we were all aboard.
After lunch Joan and the Toadvines played three-handed bridge while I read. At
6:00pm they left for cocktails on Illuminations and dinner on shore; I declined because of
illness. While they were gone both of our generators went out—one due to a decrepit
impeller, the other to a bad fuel line. Ben got them restarted but the poor maintenance
was noted.
At 9:30pm the dinner party returned. Joan reported that the one despicable person
in the group—Mrs. B—had loudly insisted that they sit at her table. Mrs. B then held
court; the evening was ruined. Why is it that the people who most want attention behave
in ways that get them the least? Or do they know just what they are doing?
And so to bed…
Castine, ME to Southwest Harbor, ME
37 nm, 3½ hrs, 10.6 kts
On deck at 8:45am after another night in the arms of Mrs. Ambien. It was cool
and very calm. At 9:15am, as we sat for breakfast, we started out of Smith Cove for a
nice trip to Southwest Harbor.
As we proceeded through Eggomoggin Reach we were put back into contact with
the world: while in Castine we had had only sporadic phone service and no data or
satellite service. As we approached Southwest Harbor, AT&T phone service kicked in,
but not the data service. Satellite service came back, so that will have to be our data
service until we get back to civilization (wherever that is).
At 12:45pm we were docked at Dysart’s Great Harbor Marina. An hour later
Illumination arrived with the Wilsons, Christensens and Wingards. After lunch Steve,
Ben, and I walked to West Marine for equipment; Joan and Harriet walked into town with
the girls.
A technician from Hinckley arrived at 2:00p to look at the ARPA on our radar.
ARPA places selected radar targets on the chartplotter screen and reports their headings,
speed, and time to collision: a great help in fog. The tech moved some wires around and
left thinking that the problem was still not solved. Fortunately, he was wrong: when we
encountered deep fog on our next leg, we found that ARPA worked perfectly!
At 5:30pm Joan returned with news of great jewelry to buy. At 6:30pm we
gathered in the salon and at 7:00pm sat outside for dinner. At 8:15pm the Wilsons,
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Christensens, and Wingards arrived to join us for Meghan’s counterfeit Turtle desert,
copied very precisely from the ice cream pie desert at the Rock House on Harbor Island.
A good time was had by all!
At 9:15pm the Illumination crowd left and I retired. Joan retired at 10:30pm.
And so to bed…
Southwest Harbor, ME to Roque Island, ME
41 nm, 4 hrs, 10.3 kts
I slept late and was on deck at 9:45am. The cold is improving, at least the
congestion is reduced. We had a great breakfast outside in the Maine chill, with ground
fog lifting to reveal a clear blue sky.
After breakfast the ladies left for a final shop-a-round; Joan was intent on jewelry.
At 12:30pm the shoppers returned—Joan adorned with a new bracelet and ring—and
Myeerah left. Just outside the harbor we entered a fog bank that thickened to pea soup as
we proceeded. On the radio Illumination reported that it was returning to Southwest
Harbor after a near collision created a mutiny. We heard Keewaydin and Paquet V on the
radio attempting to coordinate. The party on Keewaydin was moved from Burnt Coat
Harbor to Mackerel Cove for a much smaller gathering than expected.
At 4:00pm we had passed through Jonesport’s Moosabeck Reach. Suddenly the
fog lifted and the sun came out. At 4:30pm we were anchored in Bunker Cove on Roque
Island, and at 5:00pm Harriet, Steve, Joan and I took the tender on an hour-long ride
around the Throrofare into Roque Island Harbor. We investigated Seal Ledge (the tide
was too high for seals), and rode along the lengthy sand beach. A tractor was working on
the field that abutted the beach-the first sign of agricultural activity I’ve seen at Roque
island. The area is gorgeous when the sun shines and the wind is low.
On our return we read for a bit and watched sailboats come through the Thorofare
on their way to Lakesman Harbor, one of the little anchorages on Roque Island: Only one
sailboat anchored in Bunker Cove, well away from us to avoid the taint.
We had dinner inside and at 9:15pm I retired; Joan soon followed. Meghan and
Steve played cribbage for a while before retiring.
And so to bed…
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Roque Island, ME to Southwest Harbor, ME
46 nm, 4½ hrs, 10.2 kts
On deck at 8:45pm. I am over my cold, but Joan is just starting it: The family that
sneezes together stays together! Myeerah is sitting in deep fog, so doing our tour
yesterday was perfect.
At 9:45am Myeerah left Bunker Cove, still in deep fog. After about 45 minutes
we snagged a line of lobster pots. Efforts to disengage the lines were unsuccessful, so we
continued on our way, dragging a bevy of buoys and shaking like jello. Patches was
shaking in time with the boat, apparently very stressed by the motion.
At 11:00am we left the fog bank and moved under clear blue sky with light wind
and a proper Mine chill in the air. Soon after we caught another line of pots, but seemed
to shake these off after a few minutes. We still were dragging several buoys but the
shakes had disappeared.
At 1:00pm we sat in the wheelhouse for lunch. Deciding to go up Somes Sound
we crawled through a fleet of sailboats in a regatta, then idled up Somes Sound looking at
the fancy houses and gorgeous hills. On the way back to Southwest Harbor Stardust,
Freddy Towers’ Picnic Boat, passed us as it headed past Southwest Harbor over toward
the Cranberry Islands.
At 2:15pm Myeerah was docked at Dysarts. Illumination was in the space we had
had, while we took her space. Steve and the ladies took a well-earned walk. Ben put on
his wet suit and dove to cut off several hundred feet of lobster line and attachments from
the port shaft and prop. A good time was had by all!
At 6:15pm the Toadvines and Fortunes took Drag On to the Towers’ dock, where
we enjoyed a great time with 24 NYCers. The talk was lively, the hamburgers and hot
dogs were perfect, and the lcation and character of the house were exquisite. I learned
that the near collision that Illumination experienced was a lobster boat coming out of the
fog straight toward their beam: a dime-a-dozen event in Maine. The ladies were so
panicked that they sent their men to ask Bob to return to Southwest Harbor.
At 8:30pm we started back in the dark, with Steve handling the portable
searchlight I had just bought for this occasion. We arrived at Myeerah at 8:45pm, had
coffee, chatted a bit, and retired.
And so to bed…
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Bunker Cove, Roque Island
Southwest Harbor, ME to Portland, ME
103 nm, 8 hrs, 12.9 kts
On deck at 7:45am: sunny, warmer but still cool, and calm. Joan and Harriet were
walking while Steve and I held the command. At 8:45am we were off the dock and
heading to Portland.
The sea was very calm. We had breakfast inside and lolled around. After about
three hours the sky became overcast: a cold front is expected tomorrow night. At 1:30pm
we had lunch in the pilothouse, then continued our loll until 4:45pm, when we entered
Portland Harbor.
Portland, ME to Annisquam, MA
65 nm, 5¼ hrs, 12.3 kts
On deck at 9:00am. Myeerah had been underway since 7:30am so we were well
away from Portland. It was overcast but the seas were low. At 9:30am we finished
breakfast and retired to the salon.
We arrived at Ipswich Bay at 12:45pm. The ride had been very comfortable. We
piled into Drag On and went to our dock. C’est finit!
Epilogue
This has been a very good trip. With the exception of the second day, when the
sea was lumpy, and the cold snap that settled in, the weather was good—especially for
Maine. We enjoyed the Toadvine’s: Steve has a very laid-back style and a great sense of
humor; Harriet is engaging and upbeat. Together they make perfect traveling
companions!
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The Hardy Explorers
Capt. Ben—Triumphant
The Captain’s Catch
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Cruising the Chesapeake with the NYC
October 1 – 9, 2010
Chef Meghan Perrone
Don and Diana Wingard
Total Trip
167 nm, 17¾ hrs, 9.4 kts, 977 gallons @ 55gph
Prologue
This is the second northern cruise of the Naples Yacht Club in 2010. It is timed to
fit with the annual trip south of boats owned by members who summer in New England.
Joan and I will meet the group, and Myeerah, in Baltimore. Then the group will go to
Annapolis, then to the Eastern Shore. The trip will end in Oxford, MD.
At 10:00am on October 1 we left Hanscom Field in Bedford, MA, and flew to
Baltimore-Washington International Airport on a chartered plane. Tropical Storm Natalie
had dumped lots of water in Baltimore and southward, and was scheduled to make a big
delivery to Boston after we left. It created some turbulence en route, but we survived.
Captain Ben met us and by 12:30pm we were on board.
In Baltimore, MD
On arrival at Inner Harbor Marine Center we quickly settled in. It was very
pleasant—warm, sunny, light wind. The Gaillards arrived at about 3:00pm, having driven
down from Maine. The Wingards arrived at 6:00pm after a flight up from Naples.
At 7:30am we had dinner inside, with brilliant conversation and witty repartee. At
9:00pm we all retired to rest for a busy day.
And so to bed…
In Baltimore, MD
On deck at 9:00am. Sunny and coolish. We had breakfast inside, and at 10:15pm
we walked to a chartered school bus that would take the group to the Baltimore Museum
of Art. Harriet Toadvine had arranged a tour followed by lunch at Gertrude’s Restaurant
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in the museum. The BMA tour, led by a good friend of Harriet’s, was excellent There
were many fine things to see: The European Arts section had Renoirs, Gaugins, Pissaros,
Monets, and much more. The Contemporary Arts section had fine displays of dirt piles
and materials arts.
At 2:00pm, after a good lunch at Gertrude’s we hopped on the bus for a return
trip. After dropping a number of people off at Fell’s Point, a young area with bars,
restaurants and—today—a street festival, we drove past the dismal housing projects and
returned to Myeerah.
At 3:30pm Charlie, Jane, Don and I took the tender for a cruise of the harbor. We
went out to Fort McHenry, which a convention of Boy Scouts had taken over for the
weekend. Fort McHenry is where Francis Scott Key saw the bombs bursting in air. We
returned down the other side of the harbor to the USS Torsk, a WWII submarine on
display at the Baltimore Aquarium. By 4:15pm we were back on Myeerah.
Fort McHenry
At 6:00pm Ben drove us the Mount Vernon Club in Mount Vernon Square. A
ladies club like the Chilton Club in Boston, it is in a Greek Revival building in Mount
Vernon Square, just across from Baltimore’s Washington Monument. Harriet had
arranged a brief tour of the square with by a doctoral student whose specialty was the
history and architecture of the area. He told us about the Washington Monument, the
square’s centerpiece, and the square’s history.
At 6:30pm we gathered on the Club’s patio for drinks, then went upstairs for
dinner. All was perfectly orchestrated by Harriet, who was a very gracious hostess. The
food was absolutely outstanding, as was the ambience and service. At 9:15pm Ben
arrived to take us home. After arriving, we chatted for a while and retired at 10:00pm.
And so to bed…
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Baltimore, MD to Annapolis, MD
28 nm, 2¼ hrs, 12.4 kts
On deck at 9:45am to a cloudy and very cool day. The Wingards and Gaillards
were off at the Aquarium. On their return, Joan, Diana, and Jane went to the Visionary
Arts Museum gift shop to buy goodies. By noon we were the only NYC boat that hadn’t
departed. At 12:45pm we sat for lunch while Ben went back to the gift store to buy more
fake diamond stuff for grandchildren.
At 1:30pm, after lunch in the pilothouse, Myeerah left Inner Harbor Marina
Center following four YP-Class patrol boats from the Naval Academy. The channel to the
bay is quite long, and it was busy with a tanker, barges, pleasure boats, and the U.S. Navy
coming or going. Once in the bay we turned south with a moderate sea on the stern.
At 3:15pm we went under the bridge to the Eastern Shore, just a few miles from
Annapolis. Ahead of us was Hilarium, on its way into Annapolis. She is on her way to
Washington DC, where the Nicholases will meet her.
At 3:45 we docked at the Annapolis Yacht Basin’s face dock, just in front of
Hilarium. It had started to rain, and would continue until a large storm front passes
tomorrow.
At 6:45pm we walked one block to the Annapolis Yacht Club for dinner. Dinner
was in a narrow room with hard walls that magnified the noise. We were at long tables
that made it very difficult to hear. The rock fish entrée was rated as excellent; the pork
loin as mediocre at best. The service was slow—we waited 45 minutes for an excellent
crab bisque. Too bad, because Bill and Audrey Demas had worked so hard to make it a
smooth event. Still, it was an elegant problem! At 9:15pm we were back on Myeerah.
After some conversation we retired.
And so to bed…
In Annapolis, MD
On deck at 9:45am, just as everyone else finished breakfast. It had rained all night
and was still raining. The storm is supposed to pass this morning. It is quite cool. The
Gaillards went for a tour of the Naval Academy, Jane attractively dressed in Ben’s orange
rubber foul weather outfit. Joan and Don decided to wait for the rain to stop, but gave up
and left at about 11:30am.
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Dressing Mrs. Gaillard
At 12:30pm the tourers returned with glowing reports of their adventures. It was
still raining. After lunch the Gaillards went on a 3-hour walking tour of Annapolis
arranged by the Demases. The rain kept everyone else away so they got his full attention.
At 6:00pm we gathered in the salon. The rain had stopped but the sky was still
heavy and it was cold. During the day temporary docks had been set up for the upcoming
Annapolis Boat Show, so the harborscape had changed quite a bit.
After a 7:00pm dinner we sat to watch the Patriots play the Dolphins on Monday
Night football. At 9:30pm it was 7-3 Miami, and we retired. The Patriots won handily!
And so to bed…
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Day 5: Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Annapolis, MD to Solomon’s Island, MD
47 nm, 4 hrs, 11.8 kts
On deck at 9:00am. The rain had finally stopped, but it was gray and very cool
(low 50’s). At 10:15am, after breakfast, we all took the tender for a ride down the Severn
River, which had been recommended as a great house tour. Unfortunately, it was windy
and cold, and about eight YP-class patrol boats from the Academy crowded the river
doing Man Overboard Drills. So by 11:00am we were back on Myeerah. In better
conditions it would be a great trip.
Everyone except Charlie and me took a walk; on their return the engines were
fired up for the trip to Solomon’s Island. At noon sharp we left the Annapolis Yacht
Basin. The sun had just come out! Are we blessed, or what?
The ride to Solomon’s Island was very comfortable with a west wind having short
fetch. At 1:30pm we had lunch in the pilothouse. At 4:00pm we docked at Zahniser
Yacht Center’s face dock. After a walk, we read and relaxed until 6:00pm, when we
gathered in the salon for appetizers, drinks, and the evening news.
After dinner we started watching Something the Lord Made, a movie loaned by
Bill Martin from Tut Tuttle. It was a good movie, but we started late (at 8:30pm) so only
two stayed to the end.
And so to bed…
Day 6: Wednesday, October 6, 2010
Solomon’s Island, MD to St. Michaels, MD
50 nm, 4 hrs, 12.5 kts
On deck at 9:00am; sunny but cool. At 10:30pm Charlie took a walk, the
Wingards rode out on bicycles, and Joan, Jane, Ben and I borrowed a car to go to
Annmarie Sculpture Gardens. The car, a Mustang, required a bit of folding to get four
people in, but it was only a few miles to the garden so spirits remained high.
Annmarie Gardens is a looping walk through the woods with modern sculptures,
most on loan from the Smithsonian Institution’s Hirschorn Collection. It was a lovely
walk, but the sculptures were not particularly interesting to old folks with no sense of
modern art. One creative piece, which I call “Car Wreck,” is shown below.
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Car Wreck
At noon we were aboard Myeerah and at 12:15pm we were on our way to St.
Michaels. The clouds had come in and there was some rain on the way. On our trip north
we were followed by a gigantic car carrier, a tug pulling a barge of containers, and a large
American Lines cruise ship. The ride was extremely comfortable.
At 4:15pm we sidled up to the dock at St. Michaels Marina, just behind
Morrison’s La Dolche Vita. Near us were Discovery, a Fleming 55, Bill Demas’ Sea
Jaws, Jim Miller’s Treasure, and Bob Wilson’s Illumination. The clouds had rolled in
again. Everyone took a walk, leaving me to clean the boat and cook dinner.
The Marina flew British flags to commemorate the time during the War of 1812
when the townspeople fooled the British. It seems that the folks hung lanterns high in
trees outside the village. The British thought the lanterns pinpointed the town and blasted
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the distant trees with cannon fire! The town was untouched except for one cannon ball
that went through a roof.
St Michaels, MD
At 5:45pm we gathered on the aft deck for eats and sips. At 6:30pm the Gaillards
left to have dinner with the group at a local restaurant. The Wingards and we stayed on
board for dinner. We retired at 8:45pm. The Gaillards didn’t come back until 10:00pm.
And so to bed…
Day 7: Thursday, October 7, 2010
In St. Michaels, MD
On deck at 9:00am; sunny and warmer, but still cool. After breakfast Charlie left
for a tour of the St. Michaels Maritime Museum, Jane and Joan took a long walk, and the
Wingards went out to enjoy the view from a bench.
At 12:30pm Joan and I walked into town for a good lunch at Capenter’s Saloon,
followed by a short bit of shopping. By 3:00pm we were all back aboard getting ready for
a 4:00pm bus to take us to Peter and Dee Sulick’s house for dinner.
We arrived at 4:45pm after a few wrong turns of our gigantic party bus (TVs,
luxury side seating, a bar). The Sulick’s house is on a large and private waterfront lot on
the Choptank River in the town of Royal Oak, very near Oxford MD. After an hour of
carousing, we sat for dinner and watched a beautiful sunset on the Bay. Hank Dinardo, an
NYC member who has a catering business with 1,000 subcontractors, catered the dinner;
731
he has the White House, the Smithsonian, and other major Washington DC institutions as
clients. The food was superb, especially the deserts, and the ambience and company
were perfect.
At 8:00pm we got back on the bus and by 8:30pm we were back on Myeerah.
After chatting a bit, we all retired.
And so to bed…
St. Michaels, MD to Oxford, MD
42 nm, 3¼ hrs, 12.9 kts
On deck at 9:00am; sunny but cool in the shade, warm in the sun. At 10:30am
Harriet and Steve Toadvine arrived with Eliza, their Cavalier King Charles. They will all
be with us on the Boca Grande cruise in December, so we wanted the dogs to have a meet
‘n greet. There was much butt-sniffing, some snarling, but they seemed to sort it out.
At 11:15pm we left St. Michaels. It was very calm and pleasant as we rounded
Tilghman Island and headed for Oxford.
The ride was exquisite: sunny, flat calm, and comfortably cool. We had lunch in
the pilothouse and watched the boats and coast slide by. At 2:00pm we passed the
Sulick’s house at a sedate pace. We arrived at Mears Yacht Haven in Oxford at 2:30pm,
docked at the fuel dock, and immediately began refueling for Myeerah’s trip south.
Everyone took a walk into town, including the girls. On their return we dispersed
for R&R. At 6:30pm we hopped into a car for the short ride to the Robert Morris Inn for a
group dinner. We were seated at 7:15pm for dinner. Joan ordered duck while I had a giant
crab cake: both were excellent. At 9:15pm we headed back to Myeerah. A good time was
had by all!
And so to bed…
Oxford, MD to Weston, MA
On deck at 9:00am. Our guests had left for BWI airport. It was a super morning,
warm enough to have breakfast outside-finally!
At 10:30am we took a cab to Easton/Newnam Field in Easton, MD for our flight
back to Hanscom Field in Bedford, MA. Scotty our driver, was very nice but a dim bulb:
he didn’t have any dea what was the population of Easton (his lifelong home), he didn’t
know how much to charge, and he dropped us at the wrong part of the Easton airport. We
got it straightened out and at 11:30am N302RJ left.
732
We arrived at Hanscom at 1:00pm, hopped into the car, and were home by
1:30pm.
Epilogue
We have been in the Chesapeake before but always just passing through, usually
in poor weather. This tip has been great: we realized what a super cruising ground the
Chesapeake is, with lots of destinations. It was perhaps the best NYC cruise we’ve done:
Bill Demas’s logistcs were perfect, the destinations were interesting, the company was
fine, and the weather was acceptable (with the exception of two days of rain in
Annapolis). To top it off, both the boat and crew were hitting on all cylinders.
733
734
NYC Cruising to Boca Grande
December 7 – 9, 2010
Chef Meghan Perrone
Steve and Harriet Toadvine
Total Trip
114 nm, 10½ hrs, 10.9 kts, 525 gallons @ 50gph
Prologue
This is the Naples Yacht Club’s annual cruise to Boca Grande. This year the
cruise leader is yours truly, who has been planning it since June. At its peak we had 15
boats and 54 people signed up. At the cruise briefing on November 30 we were down to
45 people and 10 boats. At the event we had 3 boats and 36 people. Man plans, God
laughs!
Myeerah’s guests on this trip are the Toadvines and the Engelhardts. Freddy and
Laurie Towers will ride up and back with us, but will stay at the Gasparilla Inn. Because
of my responsibilities, we will travel to Boca Grande a day early, on Monday, December
6.
Day 1: Monday, December 6
57 nm, 6 hrs, 9.5 kts
By 9:45am we had all gathered at the boat. It was very cool—about 50 degrees—
with a brisk northwest wind blowing. At 10:15am we left the dock. Upon exiting Gordon
Pass we encountered four-foot seas, with waves up to six feet. The ride was lumpy,
particularly because we were nose into the waves; but it was bearable. Nevertheless, we
decided to take the inside route on the ICW from Punta Rassa to Boca Grande. This was a
new event for Myeerah, and it worked well.
On the way I received several phone calls. Four boats dropped out (weatherrelated), and nine people dropped. So we were down to three boats and thirty-six people.
Last year we had twenty boats and fifty-seven people. The weather was certainly part of
the last-minute cancellations, but earlier cancellations had been mostly due to knee and
rotator cuff operations: we are getting older.
At 4:15pm we entered Boca Grande Harbor at high tide. The north wind had been
pushing water out of the harbor, creating a less-than-normal depth. For the first time we
knocked the bottom as we rounded the Green “7” at the turn around the growing shoal.
735
After settling in, Ben took the Towers and their bags in our rented golf cart to the
Gasparilla Inn. At 6:30pm they returned in their golf cart for dinner. We had a fine time
over appetizers and drinks, and at 7:30pm we sat in the dining room for an exquisitely
prepared meal of lamb with honey mustard sauce—one of Meghan’s finest. We discussed
politics, economics, and life. Then at 9:30pm we turned to the Patriots-Jets game: The
Pats won 45-3!
And so to bed…
Day 2: Tuesday, December 7, 2010
In Boca Grande, FL
It’s Pearl Harbor Day. On deck at 9:15am. Cold and windy. Boats are not
scheduled to arrive until 2:00pm or later. We are down to only three boats (including
Myeerah). The brave boaters are Paul and Cathy Boltz (with the O’Mearas) in Blue
Heaven, and Rick and Chris Zantop in Christine.
After breakfast we put on our warm-and-woolies and went out on golf carts. Fran,
Steve and I went to the Boca Bay Pass Club to check the arrangements for tomorrow’s
lunch. I’m glad we did, because it was almost impossible to find: We traveled up and
down Gulf Boulevard for about 45 minutes. Finally we went to the spot shown by Google
Maps; it was a “Boca Bay” club, but it was the wrong one, and it was closed: Google had
put the Pass Club at the wrong location! We finally called for directions and ended up at
the right place, where we were met by Terry, the manager. It is a beautiful club, located
on the Gulf and having tennis courts, a pool, and a large clubhouse with a beautiful
dining room on the Gulf.
The ladies, less Harriet, who had gone shopping, arrived back at Myeerah after
our return. Harriet, lost in the shops, finally arrived as we sat upstairs for lunch. After
lunch I printed some material for distribution to our now-34 people.
At 6:00pm people started arriving for the cocktail party on Myeerah. It was very
cold, so 34 of us huddled in Myeerah’s salon. In spite of the congestion, and the
consequent heat, the group seemed to enjoy each other and the ambience.
At 7:00pm we went to the marina’s Eagle Grille, where we had an excellent meal
in a very nautical setting. Joan and I sat with the Toadvines and had stimulating
conversations. At 9:00pm the group disbanded, each trundling off to his or her
accommodations. A good day had been had by all!
And so to bed…
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Day 3: Wednesday, December 8, 2010
In Boca Grande, FL
This is the 30 th anniversary of John Lennon’s assassination. Not as infamous as
Pearl Harbor Day to those of our age, but undoubtedly more serious to the younger set. I
was on deck at 9:00am to sun and a very cold 37temperature, with a brisk wind.
At 9:45am all 34 of us met in the parking lot for a 10:00am Digital Scavenger
Hunt. Teams of 4 in golf carts scattered to take photos in three categories: architectural
design and detail, flora and fauna, and seascape or landscape. Each team selected one
photo in each category to submit via email. The judges (WaterPriceHouse), of which I
was the CEO, selected winners.
At noon 32 of us gathered at the Boca Bay Pass Club for lunch. It was a fine meal
with a great ambience, super service, and a fetching view of the Gulf. Unfortunately, as
we were leaving Steve Toadvine missed a step and took a header. Fortunately, his head
fell into some bushes and his only damage seemed to be a bruised elbow—a scare for us
all!
At 2:30pm many of us went to the Gasparilla Inn for Bocce, an event organized
by Ken and Carol Weg. Bill and Joyce O’Meara were the winners, with Dick Christensen
and Susan Power, the defending champs) the runner-ups.
At 6:00pm all 36 of us went to the Gasparilla Inn. Cocktails at 6:00pm ended at
7:00pm with the awards ceremonies. Winners in the three scavenger hunt categories and
bocce were given an award certificate and a gift certificate to the NYC ship astore. At
7:15pm we went to the main dining room for an excellent dinner.
By 9:30pm we were back on Myeerah, which immediately left to anchor outside
Boca Grande. The tide was too low for us to leave the harbor in the morning, especially
with a north wind pushing water out of the harbor.
At 1:00pm we were settled at anchor, and we retired.
And so to bed…
Day 4: Thursday, December 9
Boca Grande,FL to Naples, FL
57 nm, 4½ hrs, 12.7 kts
On deck by 9:00am. It was raining and cool. Harriet had gone to Boca Grande on
the tender to have her hair done. She was back by 10:00am with the Towers and their
bags. At 10:30am Myeerah headed for Naples on the outside route.
737
The ride to Naples was a bit wobbly after we left Sanibel Island’s shelter from the
northeast wind, but it was pleasant. We had lunch in the wheelhouse, we read, and some
of us dozed.
At 2:45pm we entered Gordon Pass, and at 3:00pm we were at our face dock at
the Naples Yacht Club.
Epilogue
A fun trip, apart from the cold weather. People seemed to really enjoy it, and my
idea of a digital scavenger hunt was very popular. We enjoyed our company, and the
company of all. For the cruise leader there was a sense of satisfaction—and relief.
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Log Book Of the Vessels Good Fortune and Myeerah Being the

Transcription

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