I used the following parts from McMaster Carr

I used the following parts from McMaster Carr: Their shipping is really fast and
reasonable.
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1 4931T132 Steel Nestable Square Tubing Solid, Plain Finish, 1-3/4" Outside SQ
Sz, 4'L $17.22 Each
1 4931T31 Steel Nestable Square Tubing Solid, Plain Finish, 1-1/2" Outside SQ
Sz, 4'L $17.08 Each
1 98935A838 Plain Steel General Purpose Acme Threaded Rod Right Hand, 3/4"6 Acme Size, 3' Length (Same as 98935A300) $14.43 Each
3 94815A109 Plain Steel Acme 2G Hex Nut Right-Hand, 3/4"-6 Acme Size $3.09
Each
1 9959K22 Chrome-Plated Steel One-Piece Clamp-on Collar 3/4" Bore, 1-1/2"
Outside Diameter, 1/2" Width $4.42 Each
1 6655K39 Steel Ball Thrust Bearing Stainless Steel, for 3/4" Shaft Dia, 1-1/4"
OD $5.83 Each
Note: Original thread link:
http://www.elitearchery.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16097
Originally Posted by Maybee-R
How do you hold the bow on the peg and crank on the press to draw the bow?
I have a similar set up but dont like the bow swinging in the air. I need to make some kind
of holder to hold the bow on the peg and free up an extra arm LOL!
Or did I miss it?
I just set the length so there is a little tension on the string when I attach the clip and it
stays fine after that. I can reach both the bow and the crank at the same time. There are
some systems that hold the bow more rigidly, but so far this seems to be working
well.
I placed the parts like this:
The collar went inside the 1-3/4" tubing (I had to grind down the allen head after
tightening). The washer is a 2" outside diameter washer with a 3/4" bore. This got welded
to the outside of the 1-3/4" tubing. Then I put the thrust washer. The 2 nuts are then
"jammed" together tightly. The socket is for an oil sensing unit and worked well because
it had a 3/8" drive opening. This allowed me to use the ratcheting breaker bar ($10 at
Harbor Freight) for fine adjustments or my drill for making long movements.
Here are some of the dimensions:
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1 main 1-3/4" tubing- 33"
1 secondary 1-1/2" tubing-33-1/2"
2 90 degree arms for mounting fingers (1-1/2" tubing)- 5"
4 sleeves for mounting fingers (1-3/4" tubing)- 1-1/2"
4 Fingers 1-1/2"x5"x1/4" bar stock (3 are notched 1/4", one is flat to accomodate
the draw stop on my Alley)
1-3/4" tubing for mounting in vise or whatever- 9"
This all left me about 6" of 1-1/2" tubing as leftover.
It will press down to 22" and out to about 52". I guess that would handle about any bow.
The collar is used to anchor the rod on the other side of the washer (which is welded to
the end of the 1-3/4" tubing). This holds the rod in place while it is rotating inside the 13/4" tubing. I think if you look at these pictures you will see how it sets up.
In the following picture the collar is on the left. The washer would be on the right of it,
followed by the bearing and the 2 nuts.
Here you can see the welded washer. The collar is on the other side of the washer, inside
the tubing.
You could weld the nut on the rod, but by jamming 2 nuts together, I can take it back
apart if I ever need to.
In order to install the nut on the end of the smaller tubing, I ground 2 of the edges of the
nut down slightly until it slid snugly into the tubing and then welded it in place.
The good thing is if you have the pieces in front of you, it really falls into place easily.
Finally finished my press today, after following EANole's thread on another forum. I
made a few changes, mainly where my finger mount is welded onto tubing which has two
holes. It is set up now for my Madness with the short hole. I can turn the tubes around,
move the fingers to the other hole, which tips the fingers further back so I can press a
more conventional bow. I cut 5/16" bronze bushings for a preset overall width of the
fingers plus tapped the ends of the shafts an added a compression spring to keep tension
on the sides of the fingers. It probably wasn't necessary but I'm a bit anal. And I didn't
like how the fingers were a bit loose tipping back and forth so I drill a 1/4" underneath
the front and added a small compression spring there as well. The finger will still move
but they have a sort of postive stop to them now. The two attachments underthe press are
for a future draw board attachment. I fogot to add - these were coolhandluke fingers.
Original link location: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=969316
Note: Coolhandluke made the fingers shown below!
The tension springs on the finger shaft came from the spring display at the hardware
store. I bought one that would slipped over the shaft that was 2" long. Then I cut it the
right length after a bit of trial and error, grinding the cut edge and deburring it so it will
sit flat. The short 3/4" springs under the fingers came from the same place.
Components ran $135 and another $30 for welding. I'm not going to press a bow until the
Plasti Dip on the fingers cure out. But here's a link when I was playing around with the
setup upside donw. One is my old conventional High Country, the other is my new
Madness.
An option:
I really like the fact that you did not weld the finger plate directly to the press arm but
instead to a removable 1 3/4" tube, or "finger tube".
By doing this you can easily remove the "finger tubes" and replace them with
attachments for a drawboard / shooting machine.
If I build a press like yours is I would not weld the legs on the press, but rather use 2"
nestable tubing with setscrews to create "leg tubes" that can rotated from straight down
like legs, straight back like wall mounts, or remove one and center the other straight
down for a Reese hitch mount etc. My legs would be made from perforated nestable
tubing, 1 3/4" and 1 1/2" with the 1 3/4" welded to the removable 2" leg tubes. You could
then also rotate the press vertically and use as a vice of sorts if you wanted.
Oh, and one last thing I would do, I would order a 1 3/4" and two 1 1/2" sample square
tube plugs for the open ends of my press tubing from this company:
http://www.harmancorp.com/products/p...bingplugs.aspx
The first pic is my old PSE FireFlight with the finger rods in the higher (upside down)
holes to allow more adjustment. The second pic is my PSE Madness with the finger rods
in the shorter hole for minimum adjustment. I played with these setups and the bows are
much easier to load from the top.
Flat Line’s Bow Press under construction:
BowhunterJT
2nd Amendment Supporter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Smithville, Missouri
Posts: 36
Go to my public profile on here and you can see how I did mine. I used 1/2" plate and
flame cut them out by hand. I drilled a 5/8" hole to be able to slide them on to a 5/8" cold
roll rod welded to another 1/2" plate. I made it this way because this metal is what I had
laying around my shop. I didn't have to buy anything. The fingers work fine but I do have
a clearance issue if I'm not careful so I am going to cut out another set from my own
revised drawing. From my experience there is no need for any type of set screw or spring.
They do not move when under a load when pressing the bow. I hope this helps ,see my
drawing below.
JT
Another style:
92safari
Registered User
yet2getthebig1
Platinum Supporting Archer
Feedback: 72 reviews, 100%
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: K.C.
Posts: 416
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2nd Generation Caution Bar Press!!!! New design and features
I have been working hard on trying to make the best bow press with the most features
that has ever been built. I think I am getting close. I have totally redisgned the Caution
Bars to give you an amazing amount of adjustability. My bars are now adjustable in all
three axises. I have added a threaded knob to tighten them wherever you need. You also
have the option of removing the bars in seconds by losening the knob and taking them
out. Second, I have designed a string tensioner to put a small amount of tension on the
string when you press it so the string always stays on the cams and wheels. No more
holding up on the string when you let the pressure off the limbs.
For directions you can call Brian at: 816 365-8264.
In the process, I thought about trying to make all of the tools we use to tinker on our rigs.
This is my draw board attachment. This was me trying to overcome a lot of the problems
with a lot of the DBs out there. Not all bows are the same. Which means not all draw
boards should be the same. With my press you get a lot of options on how to draw your
bow. You can just pull it from the throat. You can strap it in with the bungees. Or best of
all, you can use the Caution Bars to lock it in just like it were in your hand. This way you
keep the bow straight up and down. I also thought about some of you guys who are a
little short on space and said to myself, "how bout a vise?". I tried to make your press
also quad as a bow vise. It worked. It’s not the best vise out there but it works. On all my
presses, I will plasti-dip the Caution bars from now on so you are not using the foam for
the vise. I am selling this whole set up for $400TYD. I promise you guys that I will not
quit trying to come up with new things to make your dollars go further. These are tough
time and this is a great sport. There are not a lot of other sports out there that has the
support of all its members like this one has. I also will be more than happy to share how I
build these and give anyone the dimensions they need to build their own. I hope you guys
like what I have done. Also here is a link to my older press if anyone would like to see
some of the response from my press.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=882854
Here is the pics finally of the bow vise part. It works for all you guys who don't have one.
I think I will work next on an actual attachment for one of the arms to hold an actual vise.
It should be pretty easy. YThanx again guys. Remember I still offer my old press for
$315TYD and all of the attachments can be ordered seperate if things are tight.
I know that times are getting tough all over right now, I can see it in my own town right
now. I have been getting a lot of you guys asking for dims for my press. This should get
you started, if not you can always email me and I can help out.
[email protected]. . Here is what you will need. Make sure to de-bur all
pieces inside and out.
2x2x14ga tube steel
1@30” main body
2@8” arms
4@2” feet and caution bar. Drill 7/16 hole in the center of one side on two and weld a
3/8” nut. A 5/16” hole ½” down and center of the other two all the way through then weld
to whatever feet you chose.
2@1-1/2”
1-3/4x1-3/4x14ga tube
1@31” insert tube
2@10” legs
1@25-7/8 caution bar
1 piece of flat bar (preferably cold rolled) 1/4x2x3 and punch or drill a 1-3/8” hole in
coming in 1” and 1” from one end.
1 FB 1/4x1-3/4x1-3/4 and punch a 15/16 hole in the center and weld a 3/4” hardened nut
making sure the nut and hole are perfectly aligned. Then weld it to the INSIDE of the 31"
insert tube.
1 piece of ¾” all thread 31” long. Damage the threads on one end.
1 3/4" id wheel bearing (you cand find one at Westlake Ace hardware)
There is a lot to these so if you need call me and I’ll walk you through it. 816 365-8264
Thanks, Brian
yet2getthebig1
Platinum Supporting Archer
Feedback: 72 reviews, 100%
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: K.C.
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Looky What I got. Brand new super tight tolerence waterjetted fingers. I will be shipping
the first sets of presses out hopefully late next week. For all you guys who have prepaid,
your orders will be filled first of course. I will be building 15 presses this weekend.
Thank you all for beeing so patient. For the couple people who got a press last week that
the fingers were to tight, let me know if you want me to replace the press. We seem to be
having some trouble keeping the heat down on the small center pieces and some of them
were out of spec. I do not want anyone having one that isn't perfect. Also please note that
I only have the ability to paint three presses for every three days. I will ship as fast as I
possibly can. Thanks again.
Been hard at it today guys. I don’t know if you all can see but there are a lot of pieces
there. Every press has 27 pieces to cut, 6 holes to drill and two holes to punch. There are
enough parts there for 15 presses. I am building 10 total presses and 5 regular presses.
Just wanted to keep you all updated. Thanks.
Bowtechie
short for Bow Technician
Feedback: 140 reviews, 100%
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Chillicothe, OH
Posts: 3,244
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Motorized mine!
Got my press last week and did something I've been thinking about for a while.
I had a motor and a speed controller that I was going to try and build a string server but
found a better use for it. Works like a dream.
Some of you guys have been asking for some pics of the different finger options and
different press options so I will post a link to the other two of my presses. As far as the
fingers go, in order of left to right: Elite, Adjustable, Fixed. Thanx. Hope this helps.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=976029
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=882854
A Very Different Press Idea!