September 2010 – #129 - HH Franklin Club, Inc.

September 2010
Copyright © 2010
Newsletter of the H. H. Franklin Club
Cazenovia College, Cazenovia, New York, U. S. A. 13035-7903
Number 129
Page 1 of 8
The H. H. Franklin Club publishes Franklin Service Station solely as a convenience to its Members. No endorsement is made by the Club or the editor, of anything advertised in FSS.
No claim or warranty is made as to the accuracy of an advertisement; no responsibility is assumed for any transactions resulting from the ads.
ADVERTISEMENTS: Please state full car and engine serial numbers (all characters) when selling cars, engines, or crankcases. Type or print your ad clearly, be brief and precise, and
specify the classification: VEHICLES, ENGINES, REPRODUCTION PARTS, PARTS, SERVICES, or MISCELLANEOUS—FOR SALE (with prices) or WANTED. Ads run once
per request/donation. A DONATION is requested, although members’ ads can be free, and suitable nonmembers’ ads may be accepted. Selected company ads (member and
nonmember) are $3 per line. One line contains 50 characters/spaces. Make payment to the H. H. Franklin Club, Inc. Misrepresentation in advertisements may result in a member being
dropped from the Club rolls. The publication of your ad entails an obligation to answer all inquiries. The acceptance of advertisements is at the Editor’s discretion. NO PHONE AD
ORDERS but Editor will answer questions 610/573-8013.
MAIL YOUR AD TO:
Tim Miller, FSS Editor, 3438 Oakhill Road, Emmaus PA 18049-4421 USA
DEADLINES: (for issues dated): MAR 7 (for March); JUN 7 (June); SEP 1 (September—Hershey); NOV 30 (December—Christmas)
Membership in the H. H. Franklin Club is open to anyone interested in air cooled cars & trucks through 1942. Ownership is not required. Dues are $35 per calendar year ($45US for
foreign) for family membership. Yearly publications include three magazines (Air Cooled News), four newsletters (FSS), annual Trek notice, renewal notice, and when published, a
Roster of members, Register of Franklins, and Technical Index. Please send address changes to Membership Services, 80 Luke Avenue, Bergenfield NJ 07621-3406.
EDITORIAL POLICY:
To publish information that will enable you to make your Franklin run well and safely.
CLUB LIBRARY & PUBLICATIONS
Reprints—INSTRUCTION BOOKS: S10, $26; S11, $28.50;
S12, $24; S130, $7.50; S14, $22.50; S15,, $18; S16/19, $7..50;
S17, $9; S18, $7.50. PARTS CAT: S11, $48; S12, $43.50; S13,
$34.50; S14, $40. ACN 11—20: $67.50. Instruction book, S135137, $24; & $2 postage. Checks to: The H.H.F.C Library, Lloyd
Davis, RFD#1 Box 3899, Rutland VT 05701-9217.
CAR BLUEPRINTS: Order by drawing number from Parts
Catalog, call for others. $5 each for first 3, then $3 ea.; you’ll be
billed. Jeff Hasslen, 13311 95th St. NE, Elk River, MN 55330.
Tel.: 763/441-7815
VEHICLES FOR SALE
1923 S-10B Touring: S/n: n/a Eng.: 82445 Blue body/Blk
fenders, new top & door panels, recent tune up, runs great,
manuals, tools & spare parts. $23,950 obo. Gary W.
Lawing, Tampa FL Tel.: 813/932-5248
(129)
PARTS WANTED
FOR 1910 MODEL D: Flywheel (Part # 8291) and Clutch
Spring. Bruce Weir. 4785 Hutdon Dr.,
Parkdale OR
97041 Tel.: 541/352-6278
(129)
Misc. For Sale
Franklin Pictures: Nicely framed watercolors by Edna
Wilkinson: 1912 D Torp. Phaeton in summer Victorian
setting; 1925 S11A w Pa Stone Barn. 1912 D Torp Phaeton
Wood inlay tray by Geo.Clapp (193 pcs—stunning!) w
correspondence. $100/ea for water colors, $300 for Tray.
Tim Miller (for Edna) Tel.: 610/573-8013 for email images. I
will be at Hershey CA94-95-96
(129)
“RADAR” — searching for homeless Franklins:
These are current on the www.franklincar.org site:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
’23 S10B 4Dr 585/230-7671
[email protected]
‘26 S11A 4drSdn.,
Mary Voitrano 414/581-5196 WI
‘26 S11A Sport Touring John MacKiernan 508/746-1988 MA
‘27 S11B 4drSdn
Dale Sanderson 608/289-5701 Cell WI
‘28 S12A 4dr Paul/Judy 845/628-0799 [email protected] NY
’29 S130 4drSdn 360/297-2549
[email protected] WA
‘30 S145 4dr 208/756-3629 [email protected] AL
’30 Sport Sedan
[email protected] 925/202-9554 CA
‘31 S153 Twn Car Lee 661/599-1670 [email protected]
’31 S151 Sdn 360/456-2588 Bret [email protected] WA
’32 4dr Sdn 219/252-2692 Adam [email protected]
’33 Sdn w extra parts
Norm Miller 563/320-2096 IA
The ads in the website have detailed descriptions and photos and
asking prices. Also, included are Parts Wanted, Franklin Parts,
Repro Parts and Accessories, Literature and Services. Get on a
computer or to a library and have a look !
Franklins for sale, Aug’10 HMN: (none) Sept’10 HMN: ’27
S11B 4sdn CT, ’29 4dr Sdn PA, ’29 4dr sdn MI, ’29 Vic Br WI, 30
4dr sdn PA Oct’10 HMN: ’06 G Trng(Auct Hrshy), ’11 D
Torp(Auct Hrshy), ’23 10B Trng FL, ’24 S10 Trng(Auct Hrshy),
’25 4dr ME, ’26 Trng PA, ’26 S11A Trng MA, ’27 11B 4dr CT,
’29 4dr PA.
July/Aug HCCA: (none listed—nice cover picture of Tom
Rasmussen’s 1913 M Roadster!) Jul/Aug AACA: (none listed)
Sept/Oct AACA: (none)
MISCELLANEOUS
Sales
ORIGINAL FRANKLIN LITERATURE:
brochures and manuals for most models. SASE for free list.
Please specify Franklin as I have lists for all
cars/trucks/motorcycles, U.S. & foreign. Walter Miller,
6710 Brooklawn Pkwy, Syracuse NY 13211 Tel: 315/4328282 Fax: 315/432-8256
www.autolit.com
REGIONS & LOCAL GROUPS
Lehigh Valley Franklinites (PA) meet on 3rd Tuesday of
each month near Allentown PA for dinner & drinks. Usually
attracts 10-15 people. If you are visiting eastern PA or NJ call Tim
Miller at 610/573-8013, anytime. Leave a message or email:
([email protected])
Midwest Region: The Midwest Region covers the states of IL,
IN, MI, OH, WI, MN, KY MO, and IA. Many faithful members
from NY, NJ, TX, AZ, PA, NC and KS meet with us. You too
are invited to join us at our planned 2010 meets. With or without a
Franklin, consider joining us.
To host a meet or require information please call Ralph Gack,
President, 13900 Ridgewood Drive, Plymouth, MI 481702431, email: [email protected].
Hey HHFC Club Members ! You can now pay your H H
Franklin Club, Inc. dues on-line using a credit card.
First if you check the page marked “Join the Franklin
Club” you will find you can now use PayPal or your
credit card. Check it out on the Web Page. WebMaster,
Frank Hantak, 37770 So. Silverwood Dr., Tucson AZ 857392015 [email protected]
5
WEB PAGE: http://www.franklincar.org for news, more
classifieds, events & tech talk. Have a Franklin event
planned H. H. Franklin Foundation Franklin Museum
Page 2 of 8
Franklin Service Station
AIRCOOLED EVENTS
Hershey 2010: October 5,6,7,8 & 9 — HHFC spaces RNE 812. (Red North Field) Stop & say hello to friends on “Franklin
row” in the upper North Red Field.
Midwest Region Spring meet-Jackson, MI, May 12-14, ‘11
WesTrek ’11: Likely Santa Barbara area, June 12-17, 2011
The Mailing will probably be sent out in November.
58th Franklin Trek, 2011: August 6-13, 2011, Cazenovia NY
(SE of Syracuse)
THE FRANKLIN CLUB PROJECTS
Contact for information or to order: Bob Harrison, 59 Reuben
Brown Lane, Exeter RI 02822. Cell: 401-269-9122, Hm. 401667-0214 .
[email protected]
Prices listed do not include shipping.
Item#
Item:
Price:
FCP-1 1930 Ser. 145 outer Tail Light Lens, clear glass. $5.00 ea
FCP-2 Red plastic inner lens for use with FCP1
$5.00 ea.
FCP-3 1928 on—Swing out W.shield Weather Seal
$25.00 ea.
FCP-3.2 Series 17—Windshield Weather Seal
$40.00 ea.
FCP-4 1928 to Series 151 W.shield Hinge Cover-52” $ 2.00 ea.
FCP-5 S10-S130 Sp.Plug rubber Escutcheons(set of 6) $65.00set.
FCP-6 1930-on Side draft motor. Pushrod Set of 12 $150.00/12
These are direct replacement hollow push rods with hardened solid ends.
12” Twilite Head Light Lens
(out of stock)
Cowl vent seal (cut to your length)
$0.25/in
Hood Door Pulls for Side draft hoods 1931-’34
Bronze castings that require Chrome Plating. $10.00ea
FCP-10 1929-1932 Brake Drums for cars with wire wheels or demountable wood wheel. Will require riveting to your
hubs and turned to finish size. Include rivets and detailed
instructions. Note: For safety reasons, to be sold only in
sets of 2.
$150.00 pr.
FCP-11 Series 11 “STOP” ruby tail light lens
Made of Acrylic Urethane
$35.00 ea.
FCP-12 Series 11 “Beehive” ruby tail light lens
Made of Acrylic Urethane
$35.00 ea.
FCP -13 Head Light Bracket to Sill cap screw
3/8”-16 X 3 2” long slotted oval head
$ 4.00 ea.
FCP-14 Head Light Bracket to Sill Cap Screw
3/8”-16 X 4 1” long slotted oval head
$ 4.00 ea.
FCP-15 Spring Pivot Bolt Washer
Series 9 to Series 147 cars
$ 2.50 ea.
FCP-16 Copper Washer for Master Cylinder fitting
0.034” thick x 1.125” OD x 0.885” ID
$ 1.00 ea.
FCP-17 Copper washer for brake fitting
0.065” thick x 0.565 OD x 0.345” ID
$ 0.75 ea.
FCP-18 Mandrel bent Aluminized Exhaust Pipe for S145, 148,
163 & ?? This project is not complete. Will bring a prototype
FCP-7
FCP-8
FCP-9
to the Trek. I can email pictures of pipe installed on my ’32.
Contact me if you are interested. Sample clears crankcase, air
filter housing, air box, brake pedal, steering box, frame cross
members, etc.
Est. Price is $180 to $200 each.
FCP-19 S16 Tresslite Tail light yellow Segment lens
Made of Acrylic Urethane
$35.00 ea.
FCP-20 S16 Tresslite Tail light white/clear Segment lens
Made of Acrylic Urethane
$35.00 ea.
FCP-21 S16 Tresslite Tail light Ruy Red Beehive lens
Made of Acrylic Urethane
$35.00 ea.
FCP-22 S16 Tresslite Tail light clear license plate lens
Made of Acrylic Urethane
$35.00 ea.
FCP-23 Rebuilding Kit for Gemmer Steering box.
This kit is manufactured by Dick Pratt
$375.00 ea.
The newest item. the Gemmer steering box kit FCP-23, is supplied to the
club by Dick Pratt. Members can buy the kit and rebuild their steering box
themselves or have someone else rebuild their steering box. Another
No. 129 (September 2010)
option would be to buy the kit and save it until it is needed. This way they
can be sure to get a kit before they are all gone. When the time comes to
rebuild their steering box they could send kit and steering box to Dick
Pratt for rebuild or rebuild it themselves.
Franklin Carburetors—the later years
This is the first of two articles covering carburetors
used on Franklins by the factory. In the early years, the
Carburetors were made by and unique to Franklin. Most of
these early carbs were the throttle controlled air valve type
to provide load variation compensation of air/fuel mixture.
The early air valve models were cast Aluminum, in keeping
with their high quality and in line with H.H. Franklin’s
background.
Later in 1924, Franklin started using
Stromberg carburetors with single throat venturis. The
aerodynamic venturi provided a much simpler means of
improved air/fuel compensation because fuel flow through
the specially designed venturi throat essentially eliminated
fuel overload with increasing air flow. This eliminated the
need for the air valve on the early carbs.
Since the early carbs were made from aluminum, they
were durable and stable. But in the later years, competitors
made better performing and more convenient units.
Unfortunately, while many of the later carbs performed
beautifully, some literally begin to crumble after 30 to 40
years of existence and service.
This deterioration in the later cars (mainly S-12 and S13) require owners to search for replacement. This article
describes the problems and suggests strategies to keep the
cars running safely and well.
Single Throat Venturi Carburetors since 1924
The table at the top of page 3 summarizes various
features of the various single throat carbs used by Franklin
since 1924.
OE-1 and OE-2 Carbs (S-10C, S-11A & B): This main
body was cast in bronze and nickel plated—a truly
handsome unit. An Aluminum electric primer is attached to
the float bowl and feeds into the intake manifold above the
carb. This primer was used by to boil off or vaporize some
fuel into the intake manifold, bypassing the carburetor for
cold weather starting. It was helpful with the low octane
and less volatile fuels available in those days. There was an
accelerator well or reservoir which provided an extra supply
of fuel during sudden throttle opening. The well filled
during light loads (high vacuum) and emptied during low
vacuum and a valve passage in the throttle shaft— when the
driver “floored” it.
During that period, the factory and dealers offered a
retro-fit OE-1 carb for the earlier S-10A & 10B cars. It
became quickly evident that the new carburetor was more
convenient and performed much better than the air-valve
Franklin carb. In fact, the carb was offered and fitted to
many S-9’s.
The OE-2 is a slightly larger version used on some
Series 11B in 1927. The S-11B engine had many detail
design changes including larger main and rod bearings and
slightly more power and torque.
T-2 Carb (Series 12A & B): The T-2 represented
several
design,
performance
and
manufacturing
improvements. The Series 12 cars performed smoothly and
No. 129 (September 2010)
Franklin Service Station
were convenient to start. Punching the accelerator gave a
more satisfying result due to the new positive action
accelerator pump (or “syringe”) which give a quicker
response fuel enrichment for sudden increased load demand.
The load-sensitive economizer was improved to maintain
good fuel economy despite the increase in power. The
Series 12 with the new carburetor was a pleasure to drive.
The manufacturers developed new fabricating processes
which reduced cost and allowed for the easy addition of
more compensation and performance features. This new
process was die casting using an alloy of Zinc, Tin, Copper,
Aluminum and other elements, called “pot metal”. This
material was a manufacturer’s dream. It had a low melting
point and was easy to die-cast. However, problems with diecast, pot metal products began in the late 30’s. Most
Franklin T-2 carbs were OK through the 1950’s but
increasing evidence of deterioration began in the late ‘50’s.
(Ironic, since H.H.Franklin got his start in Aluminum diecasting.)
The main problem is Zinc which oxidizes very easily.
Oxidation occurs preferentially at the microscopic grain or
crystal boundaries resulting in literally nil strength between
the solidified crystals in the structure. The result was
distortion, swelling, cracking and catastrophic failure over
time. Poor metallurgy, high temperature, vibration of a
hanging updraft carb and probably modern gasoline are all
aggravating factors.
Page 3 of 8
Later in the early ‘30’s, the manufacturers learned to
improve the quality of Pot Metal by mainly eliminating Zinc
or going with various grades of Aluminum. By 1935 to
1950, the problem was essentially solved in carburetors.
In 2010, the total-failure rate of T-2 carburetors
approaches 100%. The result is deteriorating performance
and the risk of catastrophic fire hazard.
What to do about Pot Metal Carbs. There are a lot of
Series 12 cars running. What’s a poor owner to do? There
are three basic strategies, two of which are currently
available to S-12 owners. However, this writer, a graduate
metallurgist, believes that repairing Pot Metal carburetors
is not an option. The sudden catastrophic fire risk is too
great. Even after competent repairs, the surrounding metal
still continues to deteriorate. Most repairs involve a
soldering process and the applied heat hastens the decay of
the metal adjacent to the repair.
The first strategy is to replace the carb with a
contemporary carb, often another make. There are various
early brass carbs similar to the OE-1 & 2 units (like the Oseries used on trucks) by Stromberg or other brands like
Zenith, Tillotson, Marvel and Schebler. Basically, you have
to match the engine displacement (cubic inches and/or HP),
throat size and flange mount to the original size (or make a
flange-size adaptor).
Page 4 of 8
Franklin Service Station
The second strategy is to use a later updraft carburetor
made of die cast metal not subject to decay. A prime
example is using the Carter BB series. These were made for
trucks, mainly Chevrolet Cab-over-engines made from the
late 1930’s through the 1960’s. Some Ford and a few
Dodge models also used them. They are very good
performing modern carbs. These fit very well on the U-2
(S-13) and later but can be successfully used on S-12 with
an adaptor plate (BB flange is larger) and by restricting the
max throttle opening. We tried this successfully on one of
Doc Boyer’s S-12 cars. However, BB-1 carbs are getting
increasingly expensive. Franklins are not the only make to
suffer from Pot Metal decay.
I have a BB-1 with an
adjustable main jet needle and it has seen trial service on a
wide variety of Franklins and Brass era cars.
The third strategy is to reproduce the original T-2
carburetor using Aluminum or a modern grade of Pot Metal.
Currently this is not available but may be worthwhile for the
HHFC to look into since there are a lot of S-12’s out there.
It has been done for the Stromberg U-2, which is discussed
below.
U-2 Carb (Series-13): The U-2 carb was used on S-13
Franklins and various other brands models (Chrysler,
Dodge, Durant, Hupp, Jordan and Studebaker). It is a
functional and quality improvement over the T-2. However
decay on this carb was evident by the 1970’s. The first
significant problem was decay of the float bowl cover from
which the float hung. Don Kitchen made Aluminum float
bowl covers (availability today is unknown). The Antique
Chrysler club were also experiencing major U-2 decay and
more recently arranged with an Austalian founder to recast
major parts or assemble whole carbs. The throat/flange
segment and lower body has held up better than the T-2 but
all three major segments are showing decay.
Strategies: Pretty much the same as the T-2 strategies
concerning contemporary and more modern replacements.
In the “modern” case the Carter BB-1 replacement works
easily and very well on S-13 cars. U-3’s and URO2’s are
also possible fits here.
However there is the availability of an Australian
reproduction U-2, Figure 1, p.5 below. The Aussie web site
(see reference list below) is very interesting showing close
up pictures of the available major segments and the whole
carb. (They also have S-W vacuum tank tops.) These carbs
are listed in their catalog for the Franklin and several other
makes (including Chrysler). I haven’t seen one in the flesh
but the pictures look very good. If you want the whole carb,
you send them your old carb with internal jets and pumps
and control levers and they assemble a new repro carb for
your car. The “problem” is they are expensive. The cost for
the assembled whole carb is $1730 plus shipping (both
ways). The replacement cover, top and bottom are more
“reasonable” but without fittings.
Perhaps some of our members has tried these Aussie
parts or the whole carb option and they could relate their
experience with it.
U-3 Carb (S-14 thru S16A&B, S18A,B&C): The Cast
Iron bodied U-3 was a functional improvement over the U-2
and it appears that Stromberg began to realize the pot metal
problem. But not completely. A common problem with U-
No. 129 (September 2010)
3 since the ‘70’s has been the carb halves getting stuck
together on disassembly due to swelling of the venturi. The
Venturis were made from pot metal, which lead George
Clapp to make aluminum venturi replacements in the mid to
late ‘70’s (Aluminum replacement Drawing reference in the
Reference List, below—FSS editor will email the drawing
to anyone who requests it.)
URO2 Carb (Late S-18 & 19’s): The URO2 is very
similar in functional performance to the U-3. The main
functional difference is a three position adjustment of the
accelerator pump. There seem to be no documented pot
metal complaints about the URO2. This carb probably
would make a good replacement for the U-2 and U-3.
However, the main jet would likely have to be replaced with
a smaller one (or Paul Fitzpatrick’s adjustable jet needle or
similar) for the U-2 replacement on an S-13.
Other cars which used the URO2 were the ’32 Auburn
8 and the ’34 Graham. (Hmmm, I bet there are a lot of
those around.)
Final Comments:
Updraft carbs were the norm until the 1930’s. They
hung low in the engine increasing the available gravity
pressure from gas tanks (under-seat in brass era, upper cowl
in later Model T & Model A’s and in Vacuum tank
equipped cars). The updraft orientation minimized the
effects of flooding during starting and facilitated fast
recovery from flooding because the excess gas drained out
instead of into the intake manifold. The hanging position
aggrevated pot metal failures because the carburetors
vibrated and oscilated below the intake manifold. Many
factories and garages installed stabilizing links from carb to
engine block (to a cylinder mounting bolt in Franklins).
Save your old pot metal carbs. They do have the
correct jets, accelerator pump gear and control linkages, and
correct venturi inside diameter. This could be handy if you
find a suitable Stromberg replacement (jet fittings often
same thread size). This also applies if someone makes repro
T-2’s and is already required for the Aussie U-2.
It is likely that the cast iron U-3 and URO2 can be used
successfully on the earlier car with smaller main jets on the
S-12 and S-13 and adaptor plate for the S-12.
There are lots of earlier bronze bodied Strombergs out in
the flea markets at reasonable prices(O-series for example).
Take you’re your inside throat and flange dimension with
you when looking for a replacement. Zenith made good
quality, non-pot metal units during this period. Make sure
the flange/body orientation is not 90° or right angles.
On all of these old carbs, disconnect the electric primer
or fuemer. They are a major wiring and fire hazard!
The Carter BB1 is one of the best functional
replacement solutions available from S-13 on for 6 cylinder
models. It is possible to adapt one to the S-12 models with
a flange adaptor. It is an updraft carb with most modern
features and it looks pretty old. They are getting expensive;
upwards of $300 at this writing.
Finally, any Franklin owners who have found solutions
to the various carburetor problems (pot metal and otherwise)
are encouraged to relate their procedures and results to the
FSS editor. We will publish your comments so others may
benefit.
No. 129 (September 2010)
Franklin Service Station
REFERENCE LIST—Franklin Carburetors:
Air Cooled News:
3/68-V43, p28—Reprint S12 Instructions, Carb Adjustmnt
7/70-V50, p36—Interchangeability:various Franklin Carbs
3/71-V57. P34—OE-1 replacement on earlier S-10’s
7/74-V61, p25—Preheater issues & corrective action
11/74-V62, p33—Carb Adjust, late S11B (prob OE-2)
11/85-V95, p30—U-3 Venturi decay, bowl & shaft rebuild
3/86-V96, p32—Adjustable needle valve for U-3, adj proc.
11/89-V107, p30-1—Disconnect electric primers, pot
metal problems, repairing brass floats, Zenith
replacements
7/91-V112, p31-2—Service Bull on U-2 adjustments
11/91-V113, p31—Kitchin’s Al-float bowl cover for U-2
FSS:
11/79—Engineering Dwg of U-3 Venturi (Aluminum)
5/82—Service Bull: U2 float level adjustment,
T-2 loose main jet problem.
1/86—Adjustment procedure for S10 OE-1
5/87—Mods to throttle plate on U-2, adjustment
differences on S130 vs 135/137 installations.
Skinned Knuckles, 6/96—Stromberg U-series carburetor
applications to various makes and models (table),
Sizes of Venturis, main jet and bypass jets (table)
Aussie Web Site:
(www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com)—Interesting
Web catalog of repro parts for numerous cars, including
Franklins. Features repro U-2 parts and whole carb as
well as Stewart-Warner Vacuum tank top for Franklins.
Well illustrated. Can be used to check interchangeability
The Carburetor Shop, LLC, Eldon MO:
(www.thecarbureorshop.com)—Extensive rebuild kits and parts.
Tables of carburetor applications are good for finding candidate
contemporary substitutes for T-2 and U-2’s. Lots of carb
info.Covers Stromberg, Carter, Holley, Marvel and Zenith.
Stromberg terminology
The Franklin Web Site: Repro instructions on U-series and OE-1
Page 5 of 8
First, and most important to club members, Michael
reported that the Franklin Collection, which opened
officially on May 15, has been a huge hit both with visitors
and the Gilmore staff. “You’ve raised the bar for all of us,”
he said.
The success of the collection may be best
understood by a remark from a Classic Car Club director
about a proposed addition to their building. “We can’t let
those Franklin people outdo us,” he said.
Spezia also outlined some coming additions to the
Gilmore. The Cadillac LaSalle Club has committed to
building a showroom that will be located across the road
from the Franklin Collection. The Lincoln Club’s plans to
build next door to Franklin are moving ahead. The Lincoln
building, when complete, will be connected by a doorway to
the Franklin collection. With an additional entrance, traffic
through our building should grow.
The Model A Ford Club has also decided to build
across from the Franklin building, Spezia said. Their
current plan is to build a replica dealership as we have.
Ultimately, the south road of the museum will be a
miniature ‘automobile row.’
Spezia said that the Gilmore is now the largest car
museum in the country, in terms of revenue. And it
continues to grow. He expects to break ground for the new
Automotive Heritage Center. The center will have meeting
rooms, a library, and an atmospherically controlled archive
storage area. The center will be located to the north and east
of our Franklin building, with a new museum entrance and
parking area to serve it.
Before making his after-dinner presentation Michael
joined the Wednesday tour to Norwich and the Northeast
Classic Car Museum where he had an opportunity to
compare notes with the director.
His report generated a number of questions from the
audience and a big round of applause. Afterward Trekkers
crowded around to share their hopes, concerns, and issue an
invitation to come again next year.
True Confession of a Franklin fan.
Figure 1. Australian Repro U-2 Carburetor
Gilmore Director Wows Trekkers
By Arthur Einstein
People who know Michael Spezia, Executive Director
of the Gilmore Car Museum have never accused him of
being a ‘shrinking violet’. He’s a car enthusiast as much as
a museum director and his passion for the old car hobby was
never more in evidence than on the evening of August 4
when he reported to Trekkers in the basement of Hubbard
Hall on the latest goings on in Hickory Corners.
Once upon a time, many years before I became a
Franklin enthusiast, I had a brief affair with Packards. I was
young and still wet behind the ears.
What did I know?
Anyway, back then, when you could buy a Twelve for
$500, I was wandering through graduate school and wrote a
thesis about Packard and its advertising. I had a great
summer doing it and interviewed many people who had
worked for the company.
A couple of years ago I showed it to an editor who said
“Hey, we’d like to publish this - but it’s a little dry. How
about we add, say, 150 illustrations - ads and such.” Which
is how “Ask the Man Who Owns One - an Illustrated
History of Packard Advertising” came to be. If you love
automotive history you might find it interesting
You can learn more about it and see some awesome
Packard ads at the website http://packardadbook.com. You
can find out how to own one, too. —Arthur Einstein
(Ed note: Arthur is in the advertising business and this book
should be very interesting. Gee, maybe with some arm-twisting,
he could write one on Franklin Ads.)
Page 6 of 8
Franklin Service Station
No. 129 (September 2010)
Answer
cont.:
Classic
&
Exotic
Services
Inc. has Watson
WISDOM & WIT from Tom & Paul
Stabilator
straps
and
parts.
(www.classicandexotic.com)
Selected Q & A’s from the website
Bill Joline
Question: Broken hinge plate—I have a 1930 Model 147
and a broken hinge plate. This plate is affixed to the forward
Question: Expanding brake lining material—I have a
side of the firewall connecting the gas pedal linkage to the
non-Franklin that uses the same brakes as the large
carburetor. The plate is made of cast metal (pot metal). It is
Franklins did: Lockheed internal expanding brakes. What
a fairly simple part, is there a replacement part available?
type of brake lining Franklin used? I think it was woven but
Where would I look?
the coefficient of friction of the material seems more
Answer: The early gas pedal pivots were pot metal. But, in
important then the material? I have read the woven expands
1931 Franklin switched over to stamped steel pivots. You
and contracts more then the molded so the molded while
can either look for a later, steel pivot from another Club
having lower coefficient of friction may be better?
member's spare parts, or contact Jerry Verdun (listed in the
Answer: I have never seen any factory info listing which
website's "Parts for Sale" section, under "Reproduction
type linings were recommended, or sold by the dealers. I've
Parts") & get a cast stainless steel one from him. Paul Fitz.
driven cars with both types of linings and I don't really see
any difference, other than occasionally the woven linings
Question: Sidedraft running problem—Carburetor
have rivets pulled through when they get worn down.
emptied 10 gallons of nasty gas. New battery and we're off.
What I see mostly accounting for poor braking is the
Startix working fine. Here's the problem. She started and ran
result of the linings not properly fitted to the arc of the
for 5 minutes. When I decided to head down the driveway
drums, or the drums are worn, or cut too thin, the shoes are
the car repeatedly started and died. Could be gunk in the
adjusted incorrectly, or the linings are oil soaked from wheel
carb. Could be fuel pump. But I suspect the fuel line might
bearing leaks. But, all too often, the poor braking gets
be partly clogged. I can disconnect the fuel line at the pump
blamed on the type of lining material that was used.
and blow some air back through the line. Fairly easy but no
I'm told asbestos brake lining is still available from
guarantee the problem won't recur. Symptom is: it gets
sources outside the USA, but being a restoration shop, by
some fuel, starts, runs for a few seconds and then dies - need
law I can't install asbestos brake, or clutch linings in my
to do it with full choke, too.
customer's cars. The only "legal" brake lining available in
Where should I start with this? The car is so nice. I'm
this country that works best on the early expanding brake
falling in love again :)
systems is "flex-molded non-asbestos", which works very
Answer: Odd that it ran o.k. for 5 minutes, now will not. If
well if properly installed.
you look at the carb, on the front of the carb, at the bottom
One of the other advantages of the non-asbestos linings
of the bowl, pointing toward the front of the car is the main
is
that
they don't wear the drums as much as the asbestos
jet. Factory plugs are a plain hex. Sometimes they have
did. A few years ago, I had a chance to check one car that I'd
been converted to an adjustable jet with a knurled knob. Go
put non-asbestos linings in about 15 years ago. The owner
ahead and remove that jet - I think it's a 7/16" wrench.
uses the car alot, and keeps a detailed log book. The linings
When you pull it out, the gas will drain out of the carb.
were only worn to less than half the wear depth. The
You might try to catch the gas in a container to see if it's
odometer, and the owner's log book, showed about 40,000
nasty, or you get a bunch of gunk. You could even spray
miles since those linings were installed. I also checked with
some carb cleaner into the carb through that main jet hole.
a drum micrometer and found that the brake drums had only
Then just put it back in - careful not to tighten too much,
worn about .001-.002 inch from the measurements I'd
it's brass. If it has an adjustable knob, try not to turn it.
scratched inside the drums years earlier. Paul Fitz.
That will tell you a lot if you can drain it, shoot some
Answer: Thank you for your response. I agree with
carb cleaner into it and then maybe even blow it out. tom
everything you are saying. I was hoping to find is the
Answer cont.: Don't rule out the fuel pump.If the check
coefficient of friction recommended. I stopped and talked
valves of the fuel pump are not seating well as a result of
with the "Brake Place" in Minneapolis MN. He has a large
also having the "nasty gas" in there. The motor starting,
selection of different coefficient of friction linings available.
idling with the choke out, and then dies every time the cars
The woven material is generally more aggressive than the
is moved, can also be a symptom of low output from the
molded. From what I have read historically (it was a big
fuel pump.
topic in 1933) the molded material was more stable and that
The car needs very little fuel to start and idle, but more
was the reason it was preferred, a big issue with heat and
when moving. If the pump check valves are coated with crud
water. But like you said in your email the new woven
they may not be sealing as well as they should thus
material is much better than the old asbestos. The new
reducing pump output. Then, the carb will only get enough
woven material can also be bonded to the shoe removing the
fuel to keep up with idle. When the engine load increases to
rivet issues and giving more braking area, all good. My
move the car the fuel demand also increase. The carb will
goal is two fold, document what coefficient of friction works
starve due to float level drop, die and re-start with the choke
best on Lockheed brakes with pressed drums, and find a
out because the choke can easily over come a too-low float
combination that will be able to lock up the brakes in an
level...up to a point. Paul Fitz
emergency situation. Thank you
Question: Watson shock straps:—I placed an order for
Question: Brake fluid proof sealer: Speaking to Arnie
shock strap material with Restoration Supply today, and
Christiansen on Friday about my master cylinder weeping at
was told that they have very recently discontinued the item.
the threaded connection between front and rear halves, and
Do you have an alternate source for strap material? I was
he suggested I contact you. The aluminum disc-seal is still
planning to fix my shocks before the Trek. Thanks,
in fairly good condition, but with each disassembly will
Answer: I do not know, will send this to the Club web site
compress a little, but, still need a "back-up" sealant.
for others to chime in. Tom
No. 129 (September 2010)
Franklin Service Station
Page 7 of 8
.020 to .030 inch to slide easily between the band and drum
Answer: The original aluminum washer was a "dead-soft"
when the band is fully released.
crush type seal meant to seal under pressure the first time
To check.... With the parking brake handle fully released,
only. I've never been able to get the crushed originals to rethe
transmission
in neutral, rear wheels off the ground, turn the
seal with the front/rear sections back in proper alignment.
parking brake drum and listen for any dragging noise from the
Or, to make new crush washers that will seal the sections in
band touching the drum. If so, find where and by either bending
proper alignment like Lockheed did originally.
I do as most master cylinder rebuilders do - wash that
the band to better match the drum, and or bending/adjusting the
threaded connection with solvent, then using a high quality,
band's mountings gain clearance at the point the band/drum are
slow cure (marine grade) epoxy coat the threads and thread it
touching.
back to the same alignment. Then let it cure for several
My preferred method of re-shaping the band is to hand bend
days. Good quality slow cure epoxies don't reach 100% for
the brake band to match it to a circular template the size of the
about 7 days. Then the threaded joint is more than strong
brake drum with the band off the car.
enough, the threads are sealed by the epoxy, and DOT 3, 4,
On the car, the best way to gain clearance, where the band is
and 5 brake fluids will not react with the fully cured epoxy.
too tight to the drum, is to insert the shank (not the blade) of a
Paul Fitz.
screw driver at the tight spot and pull hard on the brake lever to
Question: Emergency Brake adjustment:—My car is a
re-bend a bit tighter curvature into the band and lining at that
'28 Sport Runabout. I've found that when I move the Etight point. Original Franklin bands, a 3/16 screw driver shank
brake lever, either full forward to the fire-wall, or full aft,
works well. Paul Fitz
the clamps of the brake grab the drum! As the lever travels
Question: Removal of tires from metal spoke wheels:—I got
from stop to stop, the brake "opens" slightly, and then
lucky on one totally deflated tire and I popped the lock ring out
clamps together again at each extreme. The owner's manual
easily. On the rest of my tires, even fully deflated, I'm worried
mentions adjusting tension through some form of a wing-nut
about damaging the lock ring to get the tires removed from the
on the side of the drum clamp, but the re-produced photo is
rims.
too grainy to figure out what exactly the immaculately
Answer: Snap rings are still used on commercial and farm
sleeved magic hand is tinkering with! I'm also clueless on
equipment. I got my snap ring pry bars at a farm supply. They
what position the lever should be in when the brake is
are about 30 inches long to give you controllable leverage. One
engaged vs. off, ie. does full forward = off or on?
type of pry bar has a slightly curved "spoon" end. The other type
Any guidance on the proper adjustment of the E-brake ?
bar not only has a spoon end, it also has a narrow, flattened end
Answer: The problem is that you don't have all the original
much like a screw driver blade. It is used to get under the cutout
parking brake set up as Franklin had it. The brake handle
part of one of the snap ring ends and get it started out of the rim
should be fully off when it's forward. The fact that you can
groove. You can use a very large screw driver to get the ring
pull on the lever and it starts to tighten, then loosens, then
started out. You'll need two spoon bars to get the ring out safely
re-tightens tells me something is wrong with the linkage,
and with the least wheel rim paint damage.
but, since so much is not original, I'd need more photos of
First, get as much air as you can out of the tube. Because
all of the hand brake and linkage to see where the problem
you have to move the tire sidewall away from the snap ring, one
is. Also, no way to tell for sure which way is off by that
way to make sure you’re not fighting any air left in the tube is
info. What I do see is quite a large gap between the band
sto remove the valve using a valve wrench or toothed valve cap.
and drum on the passenger side that tells me two things.
Stepping on the tire side wall to move it away from the snap ring
First, it's backed off way too much. Second, the band is not
and rim where your prying makes it easier to get the snap ring up
concentric to the drum, which means it would probably
and out of it's rim groove. Also helps hold the tire from moving
touch somewhere if you adjusted it tighter to close up that
while your working on it.
passenger side gap.
Once you have the snap ring started out of it's rim groove,
For now, I can tell you how it "should" work. When
insert the spoon bar under the snap ring to lever it out and hold it
properly adjusted any hand brake band should be VERY
while you "leap-frog" the other pry bar ahead of the spoon bar to
close to the drum, but not touch it anywhere. Since it's very
lever more of the snap ring out and over the side of the wheel
difficult to get the band perfectly concentric to the drum,
rim. Leap-frog the bars in 3-4 inch "jumps". Somewhere after
sometimes it is given excessive amount of clearance to get
you pass the half-way point, it may pop loose. Keep going until
brake band clearance in all areas. That excessive amount of
it pops, then remove the rest of the way pulling by hand.
backed-off adjustment uses up travel when you pull on the
The tube and rim band/tube flap may be stuck to the rim by
hand brake lever. The band has to be as perfectly formed to
age and rust. Rubber is water proof, but it absorbs moisture, so
the drum as possible, and it has to be mounted so that once
it's not uncommon to find what looks like good rims, are actually
the band is concentric to the drum, it stays concentric when
very rusted under the rim band. Carefully slide a putty knife with
released so that the band doesn't drag on the drum at all !
smoothed edges under the band/flap to work it loose from the
Your yellow arrow is pointing to what appears to be an
rim.
adjusting bolt. It's lock nut is just visible at the bottom of
If the rims are deeply pitted, check the depth of the pits. It
that bolt. Not clear in the photos, but that bolt should ONLY
may need repair by a professional welder. The usual rust failure
limit how far the band will release. It should not affect how
pattern is when a crack can travel from pit to pit because the pits
much the band will tighten. Try changing the length of that
are deep and close together. Paul Fitz.
adjustment bolt until you can just get a feeler gauge of about
FIRST-CLASS MAIL
U.S. POSTAGE
PAID
Bethlehem, PA
Permit No. 100
The H. H. Franklin Club, Inc.
c/o Cazenovia College
Cazenovia NY 13035-7903
2010
SEPTEMBER
Page 8 of 8
You meet the nicest people in a Franklin
Franklin Service Station
Remember the Honda motorbike ads from the late ‘60’s and
early ‘70’s. “You meet the nicest people on a Honda.” Well, this
year I found that out at the WesTrek and the Trek. I got four rides
this year. I met Jim and Ann Demartini at the WesTrek who carted
me in their ’29 Sport Sedan in the Sacramento area. I had never met
them before and they were fun and delightful people. Next I rode
with Jerry Houchins in his beautiful ’30 coupe which runs as good as
it looks. I’ve known Jerry casually from years of attending the
HCCA Bakersfield meet and the Webb’s annual party. Jerry and I
got to know each other and found we had a lot in common—the
military. He is a retired Navy CPO (my grandfather was one too) and
I was an Army brat. We had many similar experiences from our
military backgrounds. Finally as the WesTrek, I rode with Mike
Knips, whom I knew well from the Bakersfield experiences and
through Marlene and Chet Zimmerman. We had a pleasant ride over
to the Ag/truck museum. At the Trek, I rode with Art Lee and his
wife and cute kid over to Cooperstown in their ‘23 S-10B touring
which runs really well. We even got lost twice on the way over to be
rescued by my cell phone’s GPS.
No wonder the Franklin reunion relatives like each other.
Franklin’s Military Experience
Dick Seabury from NJ called me last month and sent over an
interesting article in the October issue of Hemmings Classic Car.. In
1929, Franklin and several others submitted armored car prototypes
to the Armyy for consideration. The Franklin looked like a pretty
good design but the really interesting thing was that it appeared to
feature the 90 HP side-drafter engine in ’29. Apparently no contract
was awarded to anyone, but there were some interesting beasts.
No. 129 (September 2010)
It’s not the editorial charter of FSS to cover history but it may
be worth contacting Hemmings and doing future research on the
details of the Franklin Armored car for ACN.
Franklin Carburetor Problems
The carburetor article in this issue of FSS discusses the
problems of the Stromberg T-2 (S-12), the U-2 (S-13) and U-3 (other
side drafters). My direct experience with substitutes for these
decaying carbs (T-2, U-2 and U-3 venturis) is limited. However the
problem continues to get worse with time for those three units. The
pot metal problem is pretty much irreversible with the T-2’s
approaching 100% failures.
The purpose of this article is not to strike fear into S-12-13
Franklin owners. Rather, to emphasize that there are good functional
solutions out there—I only covered a few of the common solutions.
There are a lot of S-12’s and S-13’s out there. These owners
would greatly benefit from the experience of owners who have made
successful solutions. So again, I invite you to submit your
experiences for repairing and replacing T-2’s and U-2’s. Send me
your stories and I’ll compile them into a more comprehensive
carburetor solutions article.
Another solution would be to reproduce T-2’s. It would be
expensive but technically doable, and possible a worthwhile club
project. The Chrysler boys and the Aussies have a decent
replacement for the U-2. Making venturi’s for the U-3 is pretty
simple. So save your old dead T-2’s and U-2’s; the internal and
control parts are still good.
Tim Miller