Great Danish mix

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Great Danish mix:
lakes, food – and Elvis
Spectacular landscapes,
Scandinavian chic,
wonderful food and a great
sense of ‘hygge’ – ALEX
HURRELL explores
Denmark’s lakelands.
B
acon, Lego, Sandi Toksvig –
if that’s all Denmark means
to you, hop on a 90-minute
flight from Stansted and be
amazed.
Good things, they say, come
in small packages. The Jutland
peninsular is only a three-hour drive, top
to bottom, but it holds a wealth of
attractions, natural beauty, restaurants
and friendly Danes who all, happily for
us, speak English, and smile a lot while
doing so.
Our destination was the little-known
Danish lakelands, along the course of
Denmark’s longest river, the Gudenå,
which we followed from Randers in the
north, to Ry in the south, with a
diversion to Horsens, in the east.
Don’t think of our rugged Lake
District, think acres of forest, relativelyflat walking, room to breathe, and
charming riverside eateries.
For the more active there is cycling,
canoeing, wild and organised camping.
There are unusual museums, attractions
for children, and prices are generally on
a par with Britain.
Danes are big on cycling with paths and
hire facilities galore. Whole families take
to the saddle and follow the river and
forest trails.
Roads are quiet and dotted with neat
farms and villages, and short car
journeys from the river take you to
attractions ranging from a faithful
re-creation of Elvis’s Graceland home, to
a former prison (Fængslet Horsens)
where the story of former inmates’ lives
is told in an original and compelling way
– highly recommended.
A nation of islands (more than 100) is
bound to know its fish and there are
numerous opportunities to eat and/or
catch them yourself.
Noma, regularly ranked among the
world’s top three restaurants, is in
Copenhagen – off our route and beyond
our pockets – but it has set a Danish
standard and we ate at a number of
restaurants where the chefs cared
passionately about quality and
presentation, using fresh local, fish, meat
and produce.
Kitsch and wonderful, Graceland
Randers is a mansion inspired by Elvis
Presley’s Tennessee home.
It incorporates Henrik Knudsen’s large
and still-growing collection of authentic
Elvis memorabilia.
As you walk through the extravagant
gates, featuring Elvis in wrought iron,
the King’s music greets you piped
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the King s music greets you, piped
into the grounds where a recreation
of his humble birthplace home in
Tupelo, Mississipi, lines the path to
the entrance.
The mansion also houses a popular
Elvis-themed American diner. Among its
offerings is his favourite sandwich –
peanut butter, banana and bacon. Be
warned, the Danish version is a deepfried 1,465-calorie version.
We hopped on the world’s oldest
coal-burning paddle steamer to cross the
Gudenå in Silkeborg, arriving for lunch
at the decorative riverside Hotel Julsø
where the cooking is inspired by Italy.
After a delicious platter of five
different types of fish and shellfish (£23)
we walked off our lunch by climbing the
147m (482ft) Himmelbjerget, or Sky
Mountain, one of Denmark’s highest
points.
From a tower on the top the views
across river, lakes and forests are
ravishing.
Another “must” on the river trail is the
Silkeborg Museum, home of the Tollund
Man, whose 2,400-year-old body was
found in 1950, perfectly preserved in a
peat bog 10km west of the city.
He had a rope around his neck and
there have been many theories about
how he met his end – although you
would think with such a wealth of
Scandanavian TV detectives, someone
would have cracked it by now.
Staring at the features of our Iron Age
ancestor, whose face was only a few
centimetres away from my own, was – in
the original sense of the word –
awesome. Silkeborg is also home to
riverside Museum Jorn, housing work
by the internationally-renowned Danish
artist Asger Jorn (1914-1973).
A founder member of the avant-garde
COBRA movement, Jorn was an
abstract, expressionist artist and his
bold, complex work is well displayed in
the spare and intimate museum.
From modern art to ancient brewing
techniques - at the Øm Kloster Museum,
Ry, we wandered among the remains of a
12th-century Cistercian monastery
whose history is well preserved, with
skeletons, a living herb garden and a
medieval toilet seat among display
items.
The Klosterbryggeriet – or monastery
brewery – is one of Denmark’s growing
number of craft beer-makers and we
sampled its honeyed offerings in the
quiet of the cloistered museum setting.
Drinking and eating well was so easy
during our trip that the chance to canoe
a short length of the river provided
welcome exercise.
We were guided by angler Nils Thorup,
an expert on the excellent fishing
available on the river.
But all that rowing whetted the
appetite again. Among restaurants we
tried was the smart but casual Hotel Fru
Larsen, with warm candlelight and
animal fur-covered seats.
Guests can catch their own fish supper
from the nearby stream and have it
transformed into something Nordic and
tasty. Three courses at Fru Larsen cost
about £40.
Sunday lunch at Lyng Dal, Ry, was
stylish and memorable. The family
owners are dedicated and the results are
exquisite. Produce from the garden,
including flower heads for flavour and
decoration, is used liberally.
With three non-meat eaters in our
party we had prawns and egg with wild
garlic, asparagus, lemon and herbs,
followed by hake and scallop with fennel,
capers, cauliflower, dandelion, hazelnuts
and cabbage, and then rhubarb, vanilla
mousse, booze-soaked cake, and
homemade ice cream for pudding. Three
courses cost about £34.
At the busy, relaxed Café Evald in
Silkeborg we enjoyed a £19 satisfying
tapas plate which included Danish
cheese, raw fillet of beef with mustard,
fried fish and some of the many
varieties of Danish bread which were all
a wonderful revelation and would make
a satisfying meal in themselves.
After a stately and scenic trip on the
vintage Byrup-Vrads railway, we had tea
in the Vrads station café, including a
traditional Danish layer cake – lashings
of cream and berries. If there had been
no negative consequences, I’d have
polished off the whole thing.
Hygge (pronounced “hooga”) is an
untranslatable Danish word whose
nearest English equivalent is
“wellbeing” – our word “hug” is derived
from it. If you enjoy the “hygge” things
in life, get yourself to Denmark.
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Think
acres of
forest, flat
walking,
room to
breathe,
and
charming
riverside
eateries
■ Top: Canoeing on the Gudenå: Alex Hurrell is on the right.
Picture: STEPHANIE THOMPSON
■ Above, A dish served at the Lyng Dal restaurant, Ry.
Picture: SUBMITTED
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■ Elegant: The Hotel Julsø.
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Picture: GERT SKÆRLUND ANDERSEN
Travel facts
■ Travel: Ryanair offers direct flights from
Stansted to Billund twice a week from as
little as £9.99 one-way per person. Silkeborg
can be reached by car in 50 minutes from
Billund Airport, or just over an hour or by
bus. From Aarhus Airport, the travel time is
about 1 hr 20 minutes hours by car and 1hr
50 minutes by bus or train.
■ Randers is about 1hr 45 minutes from
Billund and 45 minutes from Aarhus
Airport.
■ A small car would cost £126 to hire for
a three-day weekend; a larger car would
cost £229 for a week, a full tank of petrol,
insurance and airport taxes included.
■ Visit: www.rejseplanen.dk or for car hire,
book with Europcar on www.europcar.dk
■ Accommodation: A huge range is
available from camping and B&B to
top-notch hotels. We stayed at Hotel
Randers, one of the oldest hotels outside
Copenhagen dating back to 1856, from £105
for a double room with breakfast: www.
hotel-randers.dk
■ We also spent a night at the comfortable
Radisson Blu Hotel Papirfabrikken,
Silkeborg, part of a former paper mill with
river views, £153 for a standard double room
including breakfast: www.radissonblu.com/
hotel-silkeborg/rooms
■ A good option for golfers and families
might be the Lübker Golf Resort, with a
27-hole championship golf course and
wellness centre, all in the middle of 200
hectares of countryside. It’s close to
attractions including Djurs Sommerland, an
amusement park featuring roller coasters
and waterslides.
You can stay at the Lübker resort and
play golf, or just stay there, in a house or
apartment which is modern and oozes
Scandanavian style. A house for six would
cost about £1,086 for a week in high season:
http://lubker.com
■ Restaurants mentioned: http://frularsen.
dk/GB.aspx www.lyngdal-hotel.dk/zimmer
■ http://www.evald.nu/media/16227/evald_
aften_net.pdf http://hotel-julso.dk/
■ For general information on the area visit:
http://www.visitdenmark.com/east-jutland
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■ Main picture: An
aerial view of
Denmark’s lakeland
district.
Picture: SUBMITTED
■ Top left,
Graceland Randers,
Denmark’s homage
to Elvis.
Picture: ALEX
HURRELL
■ Bottom left, Den
lange rejse (The
Long Journey), a
tapestry by Asger
Jorn.
Picture:
SUBMITTED
Log on
■ For more travel
features online visit
our website – www.
edp24.co.uk/
lifestyle
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