Growing Dwarf Lime Trees - Bedford Area Master Gardeners

Growing Dwarf Lime Trees
in the Piedmont Region of Virginia
Phyllis Turner, PhD, RN, Virginia Cooperative Extension Master Gardener, Bedford County, VA
There are many benefits to growing your own limes,
and you can grow them in Virginia. Dwarf lime trees,
created by grafting a standard variety onto a dwarf
rootstock, are especially suited for container growing
which allow gardeners to overcome poor soil
conditions, limited space in a landscape, and cold
winter weather. They bear fruit year round, have
beautiful shiny foliage and are very fragrant. A dwarf
lime tree (4-5 inches tall at purchase) can grow to a
three foot tall tree producing full size fruit within two
Lime Tree in large pot outside.
years. They can be kept as houseplants throughout the
Photo: Phyllis Turner
year, or kept outside in the summer and moved indoors
during the winter. Fruit development, from bloom to fruit, usually takes about 6 to 9 months.
My dwarf lime tree blooms in January / February and fruit ripens in early fall.
Here are some things you need to know to grow limes in Virginia.
Container: The size container is determined by the size of the plant. Do not start with a
container that is too large as it makes soil moisture levels harder to control with small trees. A
new lime tree will grow in an 8 inch container to start. However, when it becomes two or three
years old, it will need a container with about 10 – 12 inch diameter (often called a ‘five gallon’
container). Dwarf lime trees produce very shallow roots, so a deep container is unnecessary.
The composition of the container can be anything the
owner wants. For example, plastic, wood, or clay.
However, keep in mind that the plant must be moved, so
take the weight into consideration. The one critical
element in choosing a container is to choose one that has
sufficient drainage holes, multiple holes. Black colored
containers are not recommended as they retain too much
heat.
The Soil: Lime trees need well drained soil.
Always make sure there are holes in the bottom
Commercial potting mixes with peat moss, perlite,
of all pots. (Photo by Francis Chung: Flickr)
vermiculite and compost work well. Avoid commercial
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/
check-drainage-avoid-salt-build-planters
mixes that contain chemical wetting agents or fertilizers since
these may cause the roots of the tree to remain too wet. You can prepare your own mix of soilless
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BAMGA publication / July 2015
potting mix, perlite or vermiculite, and peat moss. If the mix is
heavy, add hardwood bark chips (even hamster bedding) to
increase the amount of air space. Do not use soil from your
garden as it is heavy and will have a negative impact on
drainage. There isn’t one ‘right’ mix. Just keep in mind it
needs to be light and drain well. I made a mix of 2/3 soilless
potting mix, 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 sand.
Photo: buncombemastergardener.org
Water: Dwarf lime trees like deep infrequent watering. Because consistency is the key to
watering technique, it is best to develop a watering schedule that allows the roots to maintain
even moisture, but not be waterlogged. Once or twice a week may work well. Signs the plant is
not getting enough water include wilting leaves, which may drop. Yellow or cupped leaves are a
sign of too much water. Water until you see drainage from the bottom of the container but make
sure that the plant does not stand in this water. One way to ensure that the plant does not stay in
standing water is to elevate the pot above any possible
standing draining water.
Planter with pot feet to protect roots
from standing water
Photo: http://kindcotton.com
Weather conditions impact the amount of water needed. In
the winter, when the plant in indoors, it will not need as
much water, however, if indoor humidity is very low, the
plant may dry out faster. Plants grown in containers dry out
more quickly than in the ground, so check your plant
frequently. Outside in the summer I water my lime tree
every other day. Inside in the winter, I give it one quart of
water once a week.
Fertilizer: Citrus trees feed heavily on nitrogen, so a fertilizer with a 2-1-1 ratio (first number is
nitrogen) will work well. Be sure to follow the directions on the package as fertilizers come in
different strengths, release rates, and application schedules. Most all-purpose fertilizers also
contain trace minerals like zinc, iron, and manganese that the lime tree needs. Slow release
fertilizers are preferred to plant stakes to decrease the risk of burning the roots. Yellowing
leaves, a sign of poor drainage, is also a sign of lack of fertilizer. I water my lime tree with a
water soluble fertilizer (like Miracle Grow) in the summer
months, but don’t fertilize in the winter.
Light: Lime trees prefer 8 or more hours of direct sunlight
per day. In the summer, place the tree outside where it will
receive full sun. The tree can remain outside as long as the
temperature stays above 40 degrees F. In the winter, bring
the lime tree inside and place in an unobstructed South or
Southwest facing window. If you don’t have a south or
southwest facing window you may need to supplement with
a grow light hanging about two feet above the tree.
Photo: Phyllis Turner
Lime tree in south facing window in winter
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BAMGA publication / July 2015
Pruning: Dwarf lime trees rarely need pruning. They may look fuller with occasional pruning
to shape leggy branches, and can be shaped as desired. Pruning can be done any time of year. It
is not unusual to have shoot growth below the graft. These “suckers”, growing from the root
stock, must be removed since they take nutrients from the top of the tree and will not produce
limes. Remove all suckers as soon as they appear.
Pests: Dwarf lime trees are occasionally plagued by pests
such as aphids, mites, mealy bugs and scale. Check your tree at
least once a week to catch any early signs of infestation. A
household spray bottle of water with a mild dish soap could be
all you need to remove aphids and mites. As an alternative
they can be eliminated with natural products such as orange
citrus degreasers. Scale can usually be gently scrubbed off
the bark with a toothbrush. If scale persists, you may use
Aphids on a leaf. Notice the ants “tending” the aphids.
a horticultural soap found at local garden centers. Mealy
http://www.justanswer.com/landscaping/83oll-lemonbugs may be handpicked, or dabbed with cotton swabs
tree-leaves-startt-curl-behind-sick-leaves.html
dipped in rubbing alcohol. It is important to keep your
tree free of ants when it is outdoors, because they will “farm” scales and other honeydewproducing pests, moving them from place to place, milking their secretions, and protecting them
from their natural enemies. Ant baits that contain boric acid may be helpful. Some insects are
actually beneficial for the lime tree. Spiders (not actually an insect), syrphid flies, lady beetles,
lacewings, and preying mantids are among the beneficial insects you may see around citrus trees
outdoors. These insects eat harmful insects. Bees love the nectar in the flowers.
Pollination Lime trees are self-fruitful indoors, and don’t generally require pollination to be productive.
There is some evidence that pollination increases fruit size. An indoor plant can be pollinated by
brushing a cotton tip into the bloom and rubbing it across other blooms.
Bringing Your Tree Indoors in the Winter: Dwarf limes can tolerate temperatures just above
freezing for short periods, but prefer 55 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. In the Piedmont area of
Virginia citrus trees must be brought indoors when temperatures dip into the 40s. Slowly
transition the trees to the indoor/outdoor environment in spring and fall by bringing them in and
out for one week. Alternatively, place the tree in a shady spot for about two weeks prior to
making the move. Indoors, place potted plants in a sunny south-facing window, away from heat
vents, reduce watering and consider placing a humidifier or other houseplants around to keep the
humidity high during the dry months. Once, I forgot and left my lime tree outside in a
temperature of 27 degrees. It lost all of its leaves, but did not die. During the rest of the winter
indoors, it slowly grew new leaves. It bloomed poorly that spring, but since has returned to its
normal production.
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BAMGA publication / July 2015
Selecting a Location Outdoors: Sunny, wind free locations with southern exposure are the
best. Reflected heat from sidewalks or houses can also help to create a warmer microclimate.
Avoid placing containerized citrus trees on or near lawns that get frequent, shallow watering.
Thorns: Dwarf lime trees frequently have thorns when they are young. This is their way of
defending against grazing animals. As the tree matures, thorns will not appear as often. Prune off
thorns if desired.
What Kind to Buy: Limes come in many shapes and sizes: the Kaffir lime (Citrus hystrix)
produces a bumpy fruit used in Thai cooking; the Key lime (Citrus aurantifolia) is neon green
and small; the sweet lime (Citrus limettioides) is yellow and more tart than the Key lime; the
Rangpur lime (Citrus x limonia) is orange and very sour; and the Persian Bearss is a Tahiti /
Persian seedless true lime.
References:
1. http://homeguides.sfgate.com/dwarf-lemon-lime-trees-45358.html Dwarf Lemon and
Lime Trees
2. http://www.homelife.com.au/gardening/how+to+grow/how+to+grow+citrus+trees+in
+pots,5354 How to Grow Citrus Trees in Pots
3. http://www.ndsu.edu/pubweb/chiwonlee/plsc211/student%20papers/articles00/dwillard/
dwillard.htm Growing dwarf citrus trees indoors
4. http://www.pallensmith.com/index.php?id=36 Growing Citrus in Containers
Bedford County Extension Office: (540) 586-7675 / Email: Help Desk @ [email protected]
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