Parador of the month – Parador de Zamora

Parador of the month – Parador de Zamora
Why Zamora?
Steeped in history and one of the Spain’s finest original cities.
When the Romans came to these lands they were inhabited by the Zoela tribe. So extreme and lengthy
was their resistance that the invaders developed a fearful admiration for this Celtiberian tribe who formed
small groups of armed men to attack the Roman legions. Having finally won the war, the invaders settle
peacefully in the area and their camp became a town of some importance. Zamora was then known as
Ocellum Durii –the eyes of the Duero- and would soon become a supply point, a resting place for soldiers
and a centre for trade. This is one of the most important locations along the Vía de la Plata, the “Silver
Route” built by the Roman legions and Spanish slaves to consolidate the power of the empire. Eventually
this road would link the sea at Huelva in the south to the coast at Gijón in the north.
Situated to the west of Valladolid, close to the Portuguese border, Zamora was the focus of much fighting
between the Christians and the Moors who were not allowed to relax here for long. They gave the town the
name of Samurah, meaning “City of Turquoise”. Perhaps they were captivated by the beautiful waters of the
Duero, or the intense green of the fields along its banks. Then came the Reconquest and this territory came
to form part of the strategically located area: “Duero Desert” (an historical term related to the Christian
Conquest against the Muslim power).
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Zamora experienced most of its glorious moments between the 10 and 13 centuries when most of its
churches and palaces were built. Nowadays the castle is a good starting point, as it was the original nucleus
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of the first walled area, to visit the Barrio Viejo or Old Town where you will be transported back to the 12
century, the birth of Romanesque style. The Cathedral is one of the finest examples of this architecture in
Spain, alongside other temples like the Church of San Isidro, the Church of San Pedro and the Church of La
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Magdalena. The mid 15 -century brought renewed vigour with the development of trade and a cottage
industry in woollen cloth based around the prestigious “Zamoran blanquets”. The city also boasts fine lateth
19 century architecture; many examples of that may be found in its semi-circular market, the Bandstand,
the Old Casino and The Principal Theatre.
Why do we rate the Parador highly?
The Parador of Zamora “Palacio de los Condes de Alba y Aliste”, is
situated in the historic centre of the capital. It offers you the
opportunity to discover the beauty of a landscape both natural and
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urban. The hotel is a 15 -century Renaissance palace built over the
ruins of an Arab fortress. The building has retained many of the
magnificent original features such as the Renaissance courtyard, the
coats of arms or the glazed wooden gallery combined with medieval
armours, tapestries and attractive canopied beds. Wooden floors and
beams give warmth to the baronial décor.
The restaurant offers excellent typical traditional dishes such as
Bacalao a la tranca (cod), Pulpo a la sanabresa (octopus), Presas de
ternera (beef) and desserts such as Natillas almendradas (almond
custard). Diners will do well to approach the Zamoran table with all
due ritual and deliberation. A prudent start would be a Garlic Soup or
Zamoran Rice, often served with potatoes, pork jowls and pig’s ear,
and bacon. Nor should we forget the traditional “Dos y pingada”,
Zamaro-style bacon and eggs, which is always eaten on Eastern
Sunday. All of these meals go with the excellent wines of Toro,
Fermoselle and Benavente.
What, Why and When?
The Parador is surrounded by the Ethnographic Museum of Castilla y León –featuring the region’s habits
and traditions. The Museum of Semana Santa (Easter) and The Fine Arts Museum which has two sections:
Archeological and Fine Arts. The Cathedral is one of the most important in Spain, an icon of the
Romanesque Zamoran style, and famous because of the Flemish tapestries.
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Here, Semana Santa (Easter week) –from 25 March to 4 April 2010- is recognized as one of the most
exciting and spectacular throughout Spain. The town is completely transformed and processions of
seventeen brotherhoods take place in the streets between Good Friday (Viernes de Dolores) -which this year
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falls on 26 March- and Easter Sunday. Special moments are “Juramento del silencio” (oath of silence) when
the mayoress invites a period of silence to the town presided over by El Santísimo Cristo de las Injurias
(Holy Christ), the austerity of the procession of “Capas pardas” (brown capes) and the song of Miserere
(typical Easter song) in the procession of “El yacente” (Christ at rest). Semana Santa is a ritual that
everybody feels; medallions, robes and candles, everything has a very important meaning and it requires
both preparation and organisation during the year before.
There are too many reasons to visit the region of Zamora and to enjoy its tourist attractions. However we
can give you some suggestions on what to see and visit.
• Toro: 20 miles drive from Zamora, a land full of vineyards where you can visit La Colegiata de Santa
María La Mayor.
• Sanabria: the most mountainous area of the province is to the Northwest. A visit to that verdant place
is a delight for the eyes and the spirit and you will enjoy the beauty of the Natural Park of the Lake of
Sanabria located in the highest mountains. A wonderful natural space with valleys, small lakes and the
Lake which is the biggest of the Spanish glacier lakes. The village is 62 miles’ drive from Zamora but if
you want to move on afterwards you can stay at the Parador de Puebla de Sanabria situated in the
lower part of the town of Sanabria.
• Miranda do Douro, 35 miles away, a village on the Portuguese border situated in a Natural Park where
cliffs form a deep gorge known as the Cañon de Arribes de Douro. You can enjoy an excursion in a boat
across the river.
• San Pedro de la nave (Saint Peter of the ship) is a Visigothic church located in the town of Campillo
which was declared a national monument. Originally the temple was sited on the banks of Esla river,
but, when the Ricobayo dam was built, it was moved to avoid the submersion in the higher waters of
the Esla.
Zamora has good transport links with Valladolid whose airport is the closest, 45 minutes’ drive by main
road, and Salamanca is only 30 minutes by car. Madrid is 152 miles away by car or you can take the fast
train (AVE) from Madrid to Valladolid. It is a fabulous destination which combines culture, history and
nature; the region’s main attraction is also for religious, adventure and wine tourism. The city has the best
Romanesque architecture throughout the Peninsula and the Duero, flowing through the town, adds more
to the panorama.
Looking at the month ahead…
Travel to the heart of Extremadura to enjoy the Cherry Blossom Festival at the Valley of Jerte. A delight to
the senses both sight and smell; white snow gives way to white flowers. The blossom season usually starts
during the last fortnight of March and the first week of April, although it can change because it depends on
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the weather during the previous winter. You can stay at the Parador de Plasencia, a 15 / 17 century
convent strategically located in the historic centre of the town and a delightful Parador to experience.
Easter processions: you can visit Valverde de la Vera on Maundy Thursday to discover the mystery of the
procession of a group of penitents known as “Los Empalaos”. They are bound by rope to a crucifix and walk
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barefoot through the streets. Parador de Jarandilla de la Vera, 11 miles away drive, is a 15 -century
palace/castle where you will find a relaxing, intimate atmosphere and a warm welcome.
Elsewhere, immerse yourself in the authentic experience of Semana Santa in Andalucía using the
conveniently located, spectacular Paradors in the region, we recommend: Carmona (half an hour from
Sevilla), Córdoba, Málaga Gibralfaro, Jaén and Granada.