PDF version - American Gem Trade Association

PRISM
Volume I 2013
a tribute to an
industry titan
color forecast
kevan hall’s
spring collection
actress morena baccarin
Sooner or later, the world’s most
extraordinary gems will cross paths with
RaHul KadaKia.
Here, Christie’s Senior VP, Head of Jewelry Americas,
shares priceless insight into the jewelry business
and the value of an expert education.
A master eye for gems … born or made? Coming from four generations of jewelers undoubtedly piqued my interest in this great business. But one
needs to constantly train their eye by looking at gems – the more you learn, the better you will be at identifying and pricing gems, as well as being an effective
salesperson and well-rounded businessman.
Something most people don’t know about you. GIA is what brought me to Christie’s. After studying in Santa Monica, I attended a GIA Career Fair where
I had my first interview with the company.
Ok. Definitely a story there? I started work when I was 17 and five years into it, I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know … until I enrolled at GIA.
The Institute’s meticulous training and high standards exposed me to a whole new world of expertise.
Ultimate sales edge … emotion or expertise? Jewelry is an emotional shopping experience, but expertise plays a decisive role. It’s wonderful to show
people a brilliant diamond, but it means more when you can follow up with a skillful explanation of the 4Cs exemplified in that particular gem.
Lean economy. Less jewelry? At the nexus of the downturn in late 2008, we sold the Wittelsbach Blue Diamond for $24 million, a world record price back
then for any gem ever sold at auction. When you have great gems and jewels, the money makes itself available.
Any advice to the up and coming? Don’t lose the passion that brought you to this business, and above all, keep learning every day.
GIA gratefully acknowledges those who use our resources to further world
expertise in gems. Invest in your success at www.giA.eDU
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AGTA BoArd
direcTors
of
President
Ruben Bindra
B & B Fine Gems
Vice Presidents
Robert Bentley
Robert Bentley Company, Inc.
M
e M B e r s h i p
B
e n e f i T s
The American Gem Trade Association is a not-for-profit Association of United States and Canadian
gemstone professionals dedicated to promoting awareness and appreciation of natural colored gemstones
Kambiz Sabouri
Gem 2000, Inc.
secretary
Cynthia Renée
Cynthia Renée, Inc.
treasurer
John Bachman
John M. Bachman, Inc.
and cultured pearls. Founded in 1981, the AGTA has over 1,200 Members representing leading colored
gemstone and cultured pearl wholesalers, retailers, manufacturers, designers, colored diamond dealers,
estate dealers and industry professionals.
AGTA Members are proud to uphold the highest ethical standards, agreeing to the Association’s strict
Code of Ethics & full disclosure of gemstone enhancements. Membership provides exclusive benefits
and services:
Members are eligible to exhibit in some of the most important annual events in the gemstone and jewelry
industry, including AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, AGTA GemFair™ at the JCK Las Vegas Show, and
directors
Peter Bazar
Imperial-Deltah, Inc.
AGTA Pavilions at the JA New York Show & The Smart Jewelry Show in Chicago and Dallas.
Jeffrey Bilgore
Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC
Members stay informed about the AGTA, hot topics surrounding our industry, gemstone & jewelry
Bruce Bridges
Bridges Tsavorite
Members are featured in the printed AGTA Source Directory and online version. This is a powerful
Richard Drucker
Gemworld International, Inc.
Members can also access our AGTA Online Community and gain valuable knowledge from our GemFair
Tucson Seminar DVD and eLearning Platform.
fashion with Prism & weekly ePrism.
tool that gives access to a valuable network of fellow gemstone professionals. Over 15,000 copies
are distributed!
Members have access to leading industry programs. These programs include Bank of America Merchant
Services, FedEx Express® Shipping, FedEx Declared Value, FedEx Kinko’s, GE Money Luxury
Cecilia Gardner
Jewelers Vigilance Committee
Sushil Goyal
Liberty Gems, Inc.
Program, Association Health Programs, the Office Depot: Taking Care of Business program and car
rental services through Avis and Budget.p
The professionalism of AGTA Members continues to set them apart from the competition.
Pr ism
Betty Sue King
King’s Ransom
F o r f u r t h e r i n fo r m a t io n o r t o a d ve r t i s e , ple a s e c o nt a c t :
Bill Larson
Pala International, Inc.
Joshua Garcia
American Gem Trade Association
Gerry Manning
Manning International, Inc.
Niveet Nagpal
Omi Gems, Inc.
Sampat Poddar
Byrex Gems, Inc.
3030 LBJ Frwy., Ste. 840 Dallas, TX 75234
800-972-1162 214-742-7334 FAX
Cover by Roger Erickson.
2013 AGTA Spectrum Awards™
winning earrings by Dallas
Prince Designs and cuff by
Lois Wacholtz
Christopher’s Fine Jewelry
John “Bear” Williams
Bear Essentials
Eclat Jewels, Inc. 2013 AGTA
Spectrum Awards™ Collection
ring by David Gardner Jewelers.
Past President
Benjamin Hackman
Intercolor, Inc.
chief executiVe officer
Douglas K. Hucker
American Gem Trade Association
AG T A PRI S M p V o l u m e I
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FROM THE PRESIDENT
Dear Friends,
I wish each and every one of you a Very Happy New Year!
I hope that you all had a great Holiday Season and that you got some down time with your families. Now
it is time to get back to work and make 2013 a successful and rewarding year.
As I write this, our country is in the midst of political negotiations regarding our looming fiscal cliff.
Broadcasters and economists alike will tell you that we are headed to every direction imaginable: up,
way up, down, way down, or sideways depending on who you read or listen to. I hope our leaders in
Washington can find solutions that are business-friendly and that we can all go on with our day to day
lives. I sincerely hope that the solutions found and deals made are not quick fixes but those that bring longterm solutions for our economy. Given any circumstance, I personally never lose track of the fact that we
are the United States of America and that we are the most resilient people in the world. Our business WILL
come back and we WILL thrive.
In spite of a difficult business environment in 2012, the AGTA as an Association is doing quite well.
We’ve increased our Membership while many industry associations have lost members. The AGTA is
financially sound and continuing to budget for programs to promote our mission. We are committed to
remain industry leaders in setting ethical standards in strict disclosure and in the promotion of gemstones
and cultured pearls. Our e-learning programs are well received and we are continuing to expand them.
This being said, we are very excited that the 2013 AGTA GemFair™ Tucson is upon us! This is the world’s
premier colored gemstone fair— a marketplace like no other. Hundreds of gemstone and cultured pearl
dealers come together under one banner of the AGTA to showcase their products. AGTA Firm Members
show the largest inventory of gemstones and cultured pearls anywhere. Buying from an AGTA Firm
Member means that you are buying from a professional who is committed to the highest ethical standards
in the industry. Every Firm Member is bound by the AGTA Code of Ethics which they sign annually, so
you can shop at our show with the confidence that is delivered with the goods like nowhere else. Just like
we say at the AGTA, Buy Smart, Buy Safe, Buy AGTA.
Once more, wishing you all a Very Happy, Healthy and Prosperous 2013.p
Sincerely,
Ruben Bindra
President
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FROM THE CEO
Dear AGTA Members,
I cannot help but begin this letter with a note of extreme pleasure I feel in the success our Association
and our Members have achieved with the AGTA Spectrum Awards™ competition. Gracing our cover in
this special Prism issue is Morena Baccarin, a stunning actress appearing in television’s Homeland. A few
months ago Morena was featured on the cover of Vanity Fair magazine and deemed the “Most Beautiful
Woman in the World.” I quite agree. This month, she graces the cover of our Prism magazine. Watch out
Vanity Fair. But to brutalize a political phrase, “It’s about the jewelry, stupid.”
If there is anything that completes a beautiful woman, it is beautiful jewelry. On our cover, Morena
is wearing jewelry from the AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Collection, designed by AGTA Members
Dallas Prince Designs and David Gardner Jewelers. I should also note that, when these premier
designers envisioned the perfect gemstones for their designs, they sourced those gemstones from AGTA
Firm Members.
I love it when a plan comes together. You see, when you look beyond the glamour and glitz of our
Spectrum Awards, and the positive part it has played in the explosion of popularity in colored gemstones
and pearls, you have to remember why we began the competition over 29 years ago. Simply put, we wanted
our jewelry designers to become part of the AGTA, we wanted them to use more color in their creations,
and we wanted them to buy that color from AGTA Firm Members. And darned if it didn’t work.
While you needn’t be an AGTA Member to enter our Spectrum Awards, nearly 72 percent of our
entries are submitted by AGTA Members. Of the nearly 500 entries submitted for the competition, 44
percent were designed using gemstones or cultured pearls purchased from AGTA Firm Members. This is
really a manifestation of a core principle of our Mission Statement:
The American Gem Trade Association is an association of United States and Canadian trade
professionals dedicated to promoting the long term stability and integrity of the natural colored gemstone
and Cultured Pearl industries. The Association pursues its goals through the combined use of educational
programs, publicity, industry events, government and industry relations, and printed materials for both
the trade and consumer. The AGTA is well-known in the gemstone and jewelry industries for maintaining
the highest ethical standards.
The AGTA Spectrum Awards has been a catalyst for growing hundreds of our Member’s businesses.
Our Firm Members scour the globe searching out the finest gem materials which they supply to our
Manufacturing and Designing Members. These designers in turn, surround these precious gems with artful
and exotic precious metal creations, pursuing a synergy that has been the jeweler’s art for centuries.
And when these creations are complete, many of these designers chose to show their work, and
validate their artistic efforts in the most important jewelry design competition in our industry, the AGTA
Spectrum Awards. Winning pieces are featured on the cover of industry publications, industry blogs and in
recent years, have been increasingly showing up in mainstream consumer media such as W magazine and
even on billboards in Times Square. Each year there are approximately 50 winners in our competition; but
there are no losers. Through our collaboration with the Platinum Guild, the Women’s Jewelry Association
and the Palladium Alliance, jewelry pieces entered into the competition are benefitting from an even
broader promotional outreach. Our Editor’s Event, in which every piece entered is on display, attracts
nearly a hundred top consumer fashion media editors, bloggers and stylists. Winning and non-winning
pieces are selected for runway events, fashion articles, television shows and even major motion pictures
occurring throughout the year.
The Spectrum Awards are a perfect example of the success that can come from collaboration between
our Members; it is also a lesson that can be translated to our everyday business. None of our Members, be
they gemstone traders, manufacturers or retailers can achieve the success alone that they can by working
in concert. It calls to mind the famous line, uttered in the closing scene of the immortal film Casablanca,
when Rick says, “Louie, I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship.”p
Sincerely,
Douglas K. Hucker
Chief Executive Officer
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A TRIbuTE
TO AN
INDuSTRy TITAN
by Danielle Barber
In November 2012, the jewelry industry lost an
icon. Richard Krementz Jr., third generation
of the well-known jewelry manufacturing
family, passed away at age 86. Tantamount to
how he lived his life, Richard defied the odds
to the end, continuing to run the company
until two weeks short of his passing, refusing
to allow anything to interfere with his passion
and drive. With him, a 146-year old jewelry
legacy of extraordinary color and exceptional
quality also has ended. Without him, our
industry is certainly a less interesting place.
Richard was a force of nature. Physically robust, energetic and
tenacious, he had an unbridled intensity and intrinsic passion for
his profession. He was a fascinating man: one of bold extremes and
powerful convictions. He absolutely and unequivocally loved and
believed in what he did, often putting in 6 full days at the office. His
buying prowess was legendary. His word was mint.
Richard had presence. He was not exceptionally extroverted to those
outside his familiar circle, yet he commanded a room. Despite his
accomplished jewelry pedigree, he usually eschewed the spotlight,
often turning down personal interviews, never wanting to draw attention
to himself. Professionally, he was happiest in his element, buying
extraordinary gems and creating exceptional jewelry. Personally, he
loved travelling the globe with Peggy, his adored wife of 60 years, or
spending time on Criehaven, their island off the coast of Maine.
Krementz & Co. historically was known for its exceptional quality, but
Richard took the benchmark to another level with handmade pieces
of unrivaled craftsmanship. He looked upon jewelry making as a fine
art. He adored unique, imaginative jewelry; encouraging designers to
“go wild” and not constrain their creativity by worrying how a piece
would be made. It was the design aesthetic that mattered most to him.
“My concern is how to make it,” he would say with a smile. And
that he did. Richard’s eye was razor sharp. He could easily envision
a rendering in the third dimension and relished spending time with
master jewelers engineering its construction. He was a perfectionist,
and while extremely detail-oriented, he also was surprisingly openminded and fearless to try something new. It was his devotion to design
and manufacturing that earned the company well over a dozen AGTA
Spectrum Awards™, including a Best of Show in 1999.
But it was the color—the glorious, resplendent color—that moved
and inspired him most. Richard’s sheer exuberance for gems was
incomparable. For decades he travelled and purchased gems abroad,
but as global commerce evolved and his notoriety grew, dealers would
come to him first with their crème de la crème. Richard’s one-of-akind cache adorned an extremely specialized niche in the industry. No
other collection featured such a diverse spectrum of so many exquisite
hues. From alexandrite to zircon and everything in between, Richard
had a passion for every color.
Anyone in the industry attending AGTA GemFair™ through the years
has surely either known him or known of him. With a purposeful gait
Sapphire, Fancy Yellow
Sapphire, Fancy Pink
Sapphire, Red Beryl
and Emerald rings
in platinum and 18K
yellow gold.
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rings. This was the forerunner of what later would become Richard
Krementz Gemstones.
After serving in the Navy, Richard graduated from Yale in 1949 and
entered the family business, eager to learn all of the aspects of jewelry
manufacturing. It didn’t take long for him to realize his fascination for
gems. At the time, all of them were purchased domestically. It was not
until the early 1960s when Richard embarked on his first buying trip.
That single venture opened up an entire world—quite literally—of
fantastic color. He was hooked. The first major stone he purchased
was an incredible black opal, one of his favorite gems along with
emerald. He soon established strong connections in Idar-Oberstein,
India and Sri Lanka. Krementz & Co. became international and was
among the first American manufacturers to exhibit in Basel. Satellite
offices were opened in Idar-Oberstein, Brussels and Paris.
24 ct. Emerald and
Diamond (27 ctw.)
hand-made necklace
in platinum.
and resolute stamina, he seldom kept still, briskly bounding down the
aisles as he scanned booth after booth for the most beautiful gems.
When something piqued his interest, he barreled straightaway through
the exit doors of the convention center and quickly set up camp at an
outside table to consider his find in the daylight. He drove the hardest
of bargains and could—and would—tirelessly argue a point. But at the
end of the day, the deal with him was fair and honest. The year paraiba
made its debut in Tucson, Richard bargained
an entire day outside the GJX for two fantastic
gems. Returning to our booth at closing with a
peacock blue oval and a neon green pear-shape,
the likes of which we had never seen, Richard
continued to contemplate his acquisition. “I
definitely overpaid,” he fretted, folding his
arms across his chest and pursing his lips.
“Tourmaline for $160 a carat is preposterous.”
In the years since that first purchase, Richard
constantly jested that he wished he had bought every last piece of
paraiba from Tucson to Brazil for $160 a carat. Always thinking—that
was his style.
The 1990s were a challenging decade for Krementz & Co., leading up to
the closing and sale of several divisions, including the branded overlay
line. Richard’s primary focus turned to the one-of-a-kind gemstone
collection. Nothing made him prouder than hearing “Krementz color”
and “Krementz quality” used in the industry’s lexicon to describe
the highest standards. He beamed when he overheard retailers
talking one year in Las Vegas about how their client only wanted
“Krementz color.”
Richard relished travelling and soaking in the culture and history of
a destination. His thirst for knowledge was unquenchable. During
the early years, he rarely allocated time for long vacations but rather
worked in holidays with Peggy and his children, Rick and Betsy,
before or after an international buying
trip. His idea of a vacation was to hike to a
high-altitude monastery in Nepal or scuba
dive with indigenous sea life off a remote
archipelago in the South Pacific. He
explored every climate on every continent,
including multiple trips to Antarctica,
a favorite, because of his fascination
with explorer Ernest Shackleton. He was
most captivated with off-the-beatentrack itineraries and fringe destinations
such as Burma, Persia and Yemen. Whether sailing the Amazon or
circumnavigating the North Pole, Richard had a zest for intriguing
adventure that never once quelled.
“It all starts with a
beautiful gem.”
—RICHARD KREMENTZ
Richard had a sterling reputation. Professionally and personally, he
lived by a canon of ethics. He was a man of his word. Deals were
sealed on a handshake or a nod. An early member of both AGTA and
the International Colored Stone Association (ICA), Richard served
on both boards and also was a strong proponent of the American
Gem Society and Jewelers Board of Trade. He was an advocate of
the industry trade shows and was among one of the first exhibitors at
JCK, Couture and Centurion. He was very forthcoming to vendors and
customers alike. In fact, Richard felt so strongly about integrity that
he and two colleagues penned the first draft of the Jewelry Disclosure
Manual over the course of a weekend many years ago.
At its zenith, Krementz & Co. employed more than 700 people. Many
in the jewelry industry have actually worked for Richard at one point
or another. Richard was fiercely loyal and steadfast to his friends and
colleagues. He provided a gratifying environment for his employees,
a casual, family-like atmosphere where scores of enduring friendships
took seed. Those who knew him personally often have retold colorful
Black Opal rings from
Lightning Ridge in
platinum and 18K
yellow gold.
Richard’s jewelry heritage was rooted in post-civil war America.
In 1866, his grandfather, George Krementz, and a partner started
Krementz & Co. in a former tannery in Newark, New Jersey. One of
their first orders of business was to install a steam engine to generate
electricity, foreshadowing what would be the company’s knack for
ingenuity and innovation. Krementz & Co. was best known for its
14-karat gold overlay jewelry, a branded line spanning decades of
ever-evolving fashions as far as the 1990s. Throughout its long and
vibrant history, Krementz had acquired various jewelry firms and often
integrated their diverse product mixes into the corporate structure.
In 1938, Krementz purchased Jones and Woodland, a Newarkbased manufacturer that specialized in gemstone jewelry, primarily
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Cat’s Eye Chrysoberyl
and Diamond ring in
platinum with 18K
yellow gold prongs
and Star Sapphire
and Diamond ring
in platinum and 18K
yellow gold.
AGTA Spectrum Award
Winning Peridot and
Diamond necklace
in platinum with 18K
yellow gold prongs.
anecdotes over the years. There also is a glossary of enunciations, such
as the famous, “Fine. Fine. Fine,” which was Richard’s quintessential
verbal punctuation. It was either an affirmation or adjournment of a
conversation, sometimes both. Though many would never suspect,
Richard had a marvelously clever sense of humor. He also was a very
good sport when the jesting was directed
at him. An impersonation always evoked
a hearty guffaw.
My tenure with Krementz was 26 years.
In the most recent years, we were a small,
amicable group at the office and I had the
opportunity of working very closely with
Richard. The experience was remarkable.
entirely new aspect. His mind worked like no one else I’ve known—
always analyzing, always deliberating. Richard was a tremendous
man. My respect for him was boundless. And even though we were
generations and worlds apart, a surprising and unlikely friendship
was forged.
Each piece is a miniature
sculpture. It must be beautiful
from every angle. There should
be an absolute harmony among
the design, gem, diamonds
and craftsmanship.”
I found him to be a fascinating man: so
accomplished, cultured and travelled
yet refreshingly down to earth. Though
he was born in a bygone era, Richard
was decidedly progressive, voracious
to constantly learn something new. He
would tear out provoking newspaper articles and advertisements,
recommend good books, discuss current movies and events. Richard
was an excellent source of history; not only could he give a first-hand
chronicle of our developing industry through the decades, he had
actually lived through some of the most compelling events in modern
history. He was indefatigable. He rigorously exercised every morning
on a rowing machine but had a wicked sweet tooth. He was herculean.
A few years ago, he built an airstrip on his island so small planes could
land. He was practical. He preferred doing things himself without fuss
or fanfare. Richard was ever the consummate gentleman; an old world
cavalier who always held open doors and walked on the outside of
the sidewalk.
—RICHARD KREMENTZ
But most of all, Richard was a wonderful teacher. He educated me about
gems: I kept him up to date with pop culture. We would vehemently
argue semantics one day, then joke about our run-in with a celebrity on
the streets of New York City the next. Though he often lamented that
I “talked entirely too much,” he genuinely enjoyed the constant banter
and was always primed for an animated debate. I happily obliged,
regardless of the subject. Just when you thought you covered every
possible discussion point on a topic, Richard inevitably thought of an
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One day last year, as he sat in his office
debating whether or not to purchase an
important sapphire, I asked him to choose only
one word to describe what attracted him most
to the countless gems that he purchased over
the years.
In typical Richard style, he reclined and
folded his arms behind his head, pondering the
question with great seriousness. After awhile,
he held up the gem to the warm afternoon
sunlight streaming through the windows. The
sapphire glowed with deep blue fire as little
prisms danced across his desk.
He looked at me and smiled. “Brilliant.”
And you were, dear sir, you really were.p
Danielle Barber and Richard Krementz.
AGTA GemFair Tucson • February 5-10, 2013 • Booth 401
The Smart Jewelry Show Chicago • April 13-15, 2013 • INDESIGN Pavilion 2311
877.OMI.GEMS | omigems.com | [email protected]
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2 0 1 3 C o l or F orecast
by Lorraine DePasque
When the Pantone Color
Institute talks, style lovers
listen—but when they announce
their choice for “Color of the
Year,” fashionistas everywhere
turn up the volume! And adding
to the excitement of this year’s
big color reveal is that the
world-renowned color authority
picked a jewel tone: Emerald is
the “2013 Color of the Year.”
Why Emerald, and why now? To
get some inside scoop and learn
more about the color forecaster’s
current love affair with allthings-emerald-shaded, AGTA
spoke with Pantone‘s Executive
Director, Leatrice Eiseman, in
an exclusive interview.
First Stop: Emerald City
Often referred to as “The International Color
Guru,” Eiseman explains, “Around the globe,
there’s a strong focus on the emerald color—from
jewelry and fashion collections to luxury cars and
the many areas of home décor. Have you seen the
Camaro Synergy Green concept cars?” And all the
jade, green apple, and spinach in everything from
mixers and choppers to tea kettles? “All the big
brands are doing greens--Cuisinart, Kitchen Aid,
Le Creuset,” she points out, adding, “Think about
it--you’re seeing great greens even in packaging,
plastics, and paint!”
But when it comes to jewelry and fashion, that’s
where Emerald and other greens really sparkle.
Emeralds started to trend from jewelry designers
well over a year ago. “I do color presentations a
few times a year, and I often tell people at those
presentations to look to high-end jewelry for
future influence.” This season, when it comes
to emerald-colored clothing, it’s the third most
popular shade from fashion’s famous musthave brands.
And Eiseman is happy about that—“Because
Emerald is good for any complexion, as it has
both warm and cool undertones. It’s a perfectly
balanced green. It looks good paired with
different greens, too. In our Women’s Spring/
Summer Fashion Forecast—we do one for Fall/
Winter, too—three of the top ten colors are
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Emerald by Equatorian Imports
greens! Emerald is one of them, obviously, as it
will trend throughout the entire year. But there is
also Grayed Jade, which is very subtle, with a
sophisticated touch. And the third green is Tender
Shoots, which is a very bright and lively yellowgreen. Emerald falls midway between both. So
during the first half of this year, I say get whatever
green makes you feel most comfortable. Then
work your way toward trying the other greens
as well.”
Eiseman takes her own advice. “As soon as we
realized from our research how important Emerald
was going to be this year, I started to incorporate
it into my personal wardrobe. Everyone should
do that because it immediately updates your style.
I haven’t decided yet which emerald gemstone
jewelry pieces I’m going to buy, but on a recent
trip to Italy, I bought an emerald green scarf and,
after that, a top in the same shade, which I layer
over a black turtleneck. It’s a nice pop of color to
the black. When I do buy my jewelry, I’m also
going to get pieces with gems that have that same
bright hue as an emerald.”
What gems might they be? For starters, tsavorite,
chrysoprase, green sapphire, peridot, and green
jade. They share that similar color boldness—
“colors that build up your confidence,” notes
Eiseman. Many highly artistic jewelry designers
are also doing some gotta-have-‘em pieces this
year with these gorgeous green gems: opal, green
Aquamarine earrings by
Mark Schneider Design
moonstone, green amethyst, green tourmaline,
green garnet, Zultanite, green onyx, green agate,
green quartz, green chalcedony, prehnite, chrome
diopside, and malachite. So surely there’s almost
no limit to the selection of great green gemstone
jewelry you’ll find!
Green’s Next-door Neighbors: Blue
and Yellow
While the rich green hue of an emerald—the gem
that Cleopatra herself supposedly favored—is the
top color of Twenty-Thirteen, being in fashion
this year means mixing in clothing, jewelry, and
other accessories in certain other key shades.
For the warm-weather months, Pantone points
to two blues and a yellow as favorites. “If you
look at the classic color wheel, anything that lies
on either side of the greens will always work,”
explains Eiseman. With that in mind, this season,
think Monaco Blue, Dusk Blue, and Lemon Zest.
“Monaco Blue has a shot of sparkle, while Dusk
Blue is sort of a calming Zen blue. As for Lemon
Zest, it’s an attention-getting shade--the more you
see it, the more you’ll like it.”
One of fashion’s popular names, Tommy Hilfiger,
is a particularly big fan of the Monaco Blue this
year, says Eiseman, “He believes deep navy is a
preppy staple that looks good on everyone.” That’s
pretty much true when it comes to Monaco Blueesque gemstones, too. This year, be sure to take
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Citrine pendant by Syna
a second look (and even a third) at blue sapphire,
lapis-lazuli, tanzanite, and ioilite. And for softer
statements in blue gemstone jewelry, designers
are loving the translucence of blue moonstone,
blue chalcedony, and labradorite. Blue gems
that are midway in color are also capturing the
creative eye of many award-winning jewelers, so
be sure to consider aquamarine, turquoise, blue
topaz, zircon, apatite, and sodalite. Some of these
gems are so special that you don’t often see them,
so be sure to talk with your jeweler about them.
It’s always a great fashion statement to wear
gemstones that are unusual!
You also want to ask your favorite jeweler about
beautiful natural yellow stones this year—the
delicious assortment of lemons and pineapples
that speak to Pantone’s Lemon Zest color choice.
So dig in to amber, agate, citrine, golden topaz,
and yellow sapphire—as well as the more subtle
chrysoberyl and yellow moonstone as side
dishes!
And for High-end Color Combos . . .
If you bought some great orange gemstone
jewelry last year—because Tangerine Tango
was 2012’s “Color of the Year,” is tangerine’s
time over? “Absolutely not,” says Eiseman,
noting that, “As part of the orange movement
from last year, which is continuing, Nectarine
is one of spring and summer’s top ten fashion
shades for women. “And all of the oranges look
fabulous with Emerald. As do the deep wines and
rose pinks.”
Actually, she tells us,” Anything in the red
family looks beautiful paired with emeralds this
year--it’s really a very artistic pairing. So, for
example, if you layer in some emerald-colored
gemstone jewelry with pieces gems in a red hue
similar to our Poppy Red, it will look elegant
and sophisticated.”
Finding elegant and sophisticated new jewelry
spotlighting the orange/red/pink palette will
not only be easy this year but perhaps eyeopening, as you may never have seen some of
the gorgeous gems in this particular spectrum.
“Also be sure to select something in the purple
family,” suggests Eiseman, “for those days when
you want to go for less drama. I personally like
African Violet from our Top Ten. It’s not a knockyour-socks-off-purple, but it still has a kick to
it. And it’s a beautiful combination color with
anything emerald.”
In the fab four of this sophisticated palette, here
are several gem suggestions, based on what
some of the country’s best jewelry brands seem
obsessed with:
ORANGES: Mandarin garnet, peach mother-ofpearl, carnelian, sapphire, coral, jasper, Mexican
fire opal, sunstone.
REDS: Ruby, spinel, garnet, agate, sapphire.
Ruby ring by Shaftel & Co.
PINKS:
Sapphire, moonstone, chalcedony,
tourmaline, morganite, kunzite, rubellite
tourmaline, quartz, rhodochrosite.
PURPLES: Amethyst, lavender mother-ofpearl, sapphire, sugilite, alexandrite.
The Not-Quite-White Neutral
On a final fashion note, be sure to sprinkle in
some neutrals this year in addition to whatever
on-trend other colors you select for your unique
fashion statement. You always need a neutral in
both your jewelry and fashion wardrobe. And
from now until fall, for sure, that neutral is Linen,
says Eiseman. “It’s not an off-white or creamy
color but, instead, more a weathered linen--kind
of a nude shade that blends well with many other
colors and suits a lot of different skin tones.
You may want to take a look at fashion designer
Pamela Roland’s spring line, in which she uses
this nude-ish neutral a lot.” Be sure to consider
some out-of-the-ordinary “nude hues” in gems,
too, conversation-starters like rutilated quartz and
some of the light shades of drusy and agate.
The important thing is to have fun with color.
“Don’t ever abandon a certain color—even if
someone once criticized you about wearing it.
Try it again,” Eiseman emphasizes, “maybe with
some touch of it in a pattern. But surely a great
piece of colored gemstone jewelry is also always
a great way to start!”p
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AT
THE
COvER SHOOT
Who: Morena Baccarin, actress from Golden
Globes-winning series, Homeland
What: AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Photo Shoot
Where: Studio 1342
Cover Credits
Jewelry: 2013 AGTA Spectrum Awards™winning Morganite and Diamond earrings by
Dallas Prince Designs and Amethyst cuff by Eclat
Jewels, Inc. 2013 AGTA Spectrum Awards™
Collection Morganite and Sapphire ring by David
Gardner Jewelers. Evening gown by Oscar de la
Renta Evening Gowns.
Stylist: Tod Hallman for THPFashion Inc.
Hair: Lucy Gedjeyan
Makeup: Lina Hanson for Tracey Mattingly
Manicurist: Beth Fricke for Artist By Timothy
Priano Agency – using OPI
Photo: Roger Erickson
Read more about Morena Baccarin in the flip side
of this issue.p
Erickson
Graham and Roger
a Baccarin, Adam
ren
Mo
r,
cke
Hu
uglas
Tod Hallman, Do
“I wore these beautiful drop earrings with
pale pink stones. I was drawn to their
simplicity and to the color of the gems.”
—Morena Baccarin
11
A G TA P R ISM p Volume I
AG T A PRI S M p V o l u m e I
12
K e v an H a l l ’ s 2 0 1 3 S prin g
C o l l ection P resented b y A G T A
Fashion Designer Los Angeles-based designer Kevan Hall
unveiled his Spring 2013 collection December 5th with an
intimate runway production at his atelier, presented by the
American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), harkening back to
the salon presentations of the 1950’s. Celebrities including
Estelle, Teri Hatcher, who made it a mother-daughter date
night with daughter Emerson Rose Tenney, Virginia Madsen,
Mayim Bialik, Alfre Woodard, Twilight’s Christian Serratos
and more were in attendance to take in the drama on
the runway.
Known for his modern take on glamour, Hall’s Spring 2013 collection derives inspiration from the strong
colors of Fauve landscapes. Ribbons and bows co-exist with structured silhouettes, accented with patent
leather, creating an exuberant collection aimed at awakening the senses and returning to a feminine moment
in fashion. The runway presentation consisted of ready-to-wear as well as red carpet-worthy eveningwear and
culminated in a passage of bridal gowns from Kevan Hall’s new White Label collection. The designer, who once
helmed iconic fashion house Halston, has enjoyed success as a perennial Red Carpet favorite, dressing many of
Hollywood’s leading ladies including Katherine Heigl, Vanessa Williams, Jordin Sparks, Debra Messing, First
Lady Michelle Obama, plus countless others.
The show was presented by The American Gem Trade Association Collection™ featuring fine jewelry by
Erica Courtney, Baggins, Mark Schneider Designs, Somewhere in the Rainbow Collection and Yael Designs.
“With Kevan’s obvious love of color in his designs, we thought this was a great opportunity to promote colored
gemstones and pearls,” stated Douglas K. Hucker, AGTA’s CEO. “We were able to bring together a wide
variety of jewelry to accessorize Kevan’s looks from a group of AGTA Member designers, all of whom have
won multiple AGTA Spectrum Awards™.”
Visit www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUzy0LGXruo to see the stunning jewelry on the runway!
Adam Graham (AGTA), Amandla Stenberg (Hunger Games), Erica Courtney (Erica
Courtney, Inc.), Jacqueline Emerson (Hunger Games), Yehouda Saketkhou (Yael Designs),
TERI HATCHER
13
Anil Maloo (Baggins Pearls), and Mark Schneider (Mark Schneider Designs).
A G TA P R ISM p Volume I
2013Prism.indd 13
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The following were dressed in Kevan Hall for the occasion:
•Christian Serratos from Twilight stunned in a holiday-perfect bordeaux
matte jersey twist-front dress.
•Teri Hatcher, the stylish Desperate Housewives star sparkled in Kevan
Hall’s v-neck silver tweed sequin dress with rosette detailing.
The AGTA Collection™ participates in many events throughout the year.
•Jacqueline Emerson, the Hunger Games co-star, selected a copper
Upcoming 2013 events include the Golden Globes, the Academy Awards®,
illusion neckline sequin sheath, also paired with a Lauren Merkin
the AGS Conclave, the JIC Annual Jewelry Preview and the Primetime
“Lucca” minaudiere.
Emmys. All AGTA Members are eligible to participate. If you would like
•Marisa Quinn from Twilight selected a marigold silk taffeta surplice wrap
more information on participating in the AGTA Collection™, Danielle
dress accented with a thin snakeskin belt.
Pelletiere ([email protected]) at the AGTA office – 214-742-4367.p
JACQUELINE EMERSON
MARISSA QUIN
CHRISTIAN SERRATOS
AG T A PRI S M p V o l u m e I
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N e w M em b ers
Firm Members
Estate Members
Nice Gems, Inc.
Deepak Kavadia
Excalibur
Kurt Rothner
Robert Shapiro
Robert Shapiro
RCG Antiques
Celia Mamby
Soham Diamonds
Sumit Modani
Introductory
Members
Associated
Industry
Professional
Members
American Society
of Appraisers
Laura Wood
15
Platinum 1911 Fine
Jewelry, LLC
Troy Perkins
Manufacturing
Members
ADA Gems Corp/
Mordechai Collection
Amnon Mordechai
Liu Research
Laboratories, LLC
Yan Liu
Aluma USA, Inc.
Doron Sharfman
Presentation Box
& Display
John J. Cavanagh Jr.
BHI Campbellian
Collection
Bella Campbell
Uniquely K
Custom Gems
Stephen Kotlowski
C. Kirk Root Designs
Kirk Root
Caroline C
Caroline Chartouni
Loretta Castoro, LLC
Loretta Castoro
Zsa Zsa Jewels
Meena Catalano
Casting House
Troy Agler
Mirjam Butz &
Brown Jewelers
Mirjam Butz-Brown
Retail Members
Coast Diamond
Jay Gilbert
Dawes Design
Jennifer Dawes
Devta Doolan Jewelry
Devta Doolan
Frederic Sage
Frederic H. Sage
Holloway Designs
David Holloway
Joe Worley Designs
Joe Worley
Jordan Scott
Designs, Ltd.
Jordan Schantz
Lightsource Specialties
Michael Clow
Misha of NY Co.
Mikhail Zakhalov
Naifeh Design
Valerie Naifeh
Orolink
Joseph Owadeyah
S & I Creations
Shaul Reznik
Signature Engraving
Systems, Inc.
Eric Parent
Susan Marie
Designs, Inc.
Susan Phipps
Tony Maccabi Designs
Tony Maccabi
Carla Morrison
Fine Jewelry
Carla Morrison
D. Muscio Designs
Dawn Muscio
Elyse Fine Jewelers Gemologist
Richard Berberian
It’s a Cin, LLC
Cindy Saad
Jack Miller
Jewelry Designs
Jack Miller
Mark Michael
Diamond Designs
Mark Lauer
My Blue Heaven
Cara Lichtenstein
Student Members
Alina Rusu Schwartz
Andrew Alcalde
Ann Helen Meilahn
Anne Marie Carter
Bo Ai
Christian Price Frazer
Claire De Biasio Paris
David Lee Pauli
Elizabeth Malouin
Faisal Nayani
Hannah Turner
Hsuan Chang
Indubala Narula
Jane Li Jen Tseng
Jennifer Wolfe
Jennifer Yan
Jessica Meng
Jiazhi Wu
Kathleen Hukalowicz
Lisa Paley
Mary-Kay Tilden
Mike Gillespie
Nai-Chen Hou
NancyAnn Lawton
Peggy Blickhan
Roselyn Polk
Sandra Lundgren
Shelia Allen
Xiaobo Lang
Yi-Chun Chen
Yingying Zhong
A G TA P R ISM p Volume I
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C o l or T ick l es M en ’ s F anc y
By Deborah Yonick
Even more exciting, sales for men's accessories,
including bags, hats, scarves, shoes and jewelry have
soared in the last year. Most notable has been a big
hike in bracelet sales, say style experts, who hail it
one of the strongest trends among young men. While
leather, rubber and contemporary metals are trending
in this category, there is strong demand for colored
gemstones in the mix. Understated designs in classic
styles with high quality gems resonate with men.
As male consumers take to style and fashion with the
same gusto as their female counterparts, menswear is a
growing priority for luxury and fashion brands. NYCbased jewelry style consultant, Michael O’Connor,
notes that smart designers and brands caught the news
early that the men’s jewelry category was on the rise.
He cites artists like Mark Schneider, Todd Reed and
Alan Friedman as some of the leaders in this category.
Even popular women’s brands like Bulgari, Gucci and
Cartier are focusing on men’s jewelry.
Iconic celebrities are influencing menswear trends,
says O’Connor, who cites guys like Brad Pitt and
Johnny Depp as harbingers of what’s to come. TV
shows like “Boardwalk Empire,” where the cool
characters dress with panache, have a big influence,
as have male-oriented fashion blogs that make
following fashion a sport. But while the youth market
gravitates to more affordable materials like leather,
hemp and shell, he says the direction of simplicity
and unconventionality also is translated in designs in
precious gems and metals.
“Accessories give men more options to showcase
their individuality and make a personal statement
on traditional fashion,” describes O’Connor. “The
recession has taught men that looking fashionable
can be a key component to getting and keeping a job.
Men are feeling more confident to experiment and
realizing that they have more options, and it’s showing
in sales.”
17
Model in 2013 AGTA Spectrum Award™-winning ring by Costen Catbalue, cufflinks by Somewhere In The Rainbow, and pin by Cynthia Renee, Inc.
Menswear is hailed as one of the bright spots in apparel several years running, with
Spring 2013 shows in major fashion hubs debuting more collections to tickle men’s
fancy. Bain & Co.’s latest market study describes “a strong men-ization of the market”
the past two years, with menswear sales worldwide expected to reach $34.3 billion in
2012, a 10 percent gain over 2011.
A G TA P R ISM p Volume I
2013Prism.indd 17
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JOAN’S Collections
Designer Fine Jewelry
WWW.JOANScollections.com
Holiday Inn/Holidome - Ballroom - Booths 12 & 13
February 7-15, 2013 at G&LW-Holiday Inn Ball Room, Booth #12 & #13
South Sea Pearls is our Specialty
P.O.Box 4836 Cerritos CA 90703-4836 Tel: 714-827-0863 Fax: 714-933-4339
[email protected] www.JOANScollections.com
AG T A PRI S M p V o l u m e I
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Art of Color
a lighter material and opt for palladium. I enjoy
Bain & Co. credits the “men-ization” movement
working with these metals because they put a
on a growing thirst for looks that blend fashion
different spin on my product.”
trends and sartorial quality. It’s no wonder
classic accessories like cufflinks are stronger
With four Spectrum Awards in the men’s division
than ever, a great way for men to add a pop
under his belt, three in one year, Beverly Hills
of color and personality, promotes New York
jeweler Alan Friedman is another leader in this
City designer Jack Bigio. A two-time AGTA
product category, which he promoted heavily
Spectrum Awards™ winner in the men’s
during the holidays with hot new designer rings
division, Bigio is recognized for his extensive,
including styles set with crystal, rutilated or
and colorful cufflink collection featuring gem
brown quartz or onyx in 18K rose gold and steel
slices and cabochons including tourmaline,
with open metalwork.
rutilated quartz, sapphire and ruby in 22K gold
There’s also strong demand among male clients
or platinum.
for rough diamonds, adds Schneider, particularly
in cognac, brown and black because the look
Demand for men’s jewelry is on the rise.
Albuquerque,
New
Mexico
artist
Paula
Crevoshay, who has crafted custom designs
for men for over 30 years, is adding a lot more
Todd Reed raw Diamond cube dog
tag in 22K and 18K yellow gold and
sterling silver with patina.
is organic and rugged, not glitzy. Sharing the
sentiment, Boulder, Colorado designer Todd Reed
says raw is totally tangible for a guy. “Men don’t
gent’s jewelry to her collection because she has
want it so slick,” Reed says. “We craft designs
a greater call for it. The AGTA Member designer
that layer sheets of fine silver with pure gold to
says she sold a lot of men's jewelry for the
create an effect unattainable through casting.
holidays. Gold cuff links, unusual belt buckles in
Adding to the cool factor, we set raw diamonds
gold and bytriodal hematite, stickpins for lapels,
in rivets that emphasize the masculine allure of
and black and white diamond black tie sets.
unconquered terrain.” Among his bestselling
styles for men are pins, bands and dog tags.
While Crevoshay plays with a broad spectrum
Schneider and Reed acknowledge a greater
of colors in her designs, the colors she tends
to use for men are a bit more masculine. “I use
blacks and rich greens, diamonds and opals,
Stuller Carnelian, Mother of Pearl and
Onyx cufflinks in 22K sterling silver.
openness among men to embrace different metal
options for their hardware. Mark Melancon,
when introducing more color,” she shares,
contemporary metals manager for Stuller, says
acknowledging that men can rock baby pink.
that primarily men lean toward carbon fiber
“I’ve used many more colors, but when I’m
inlays, black jewelry, and leather and metal
building for a market, I feel these shades are
mixed for wrist and neck. “The X/Y generation
more wearable for men.”
male customers tend to prefer contemporary
materials as a base with precious material
Typically, designs that appeal to men are not
mixed in,” he describes. Most notable, adds
ornate, more understated. Yet this tendency does
Alix Gonsoulin, fashion jewelry director for
not preclude them from enjoying designs with
the Lafayette, Louisiana supplier and AGTA
colored gemstones, especially rich color gems
Member, is the black and white trend, which is
like rubellite, tells designer Mark Schneider of
not just relevant for women. “A mix of black and
Long Beach, California. A leader in this arena,
white diamonds and onyx is a bestseller in men’s
Schneider is a nine-time winner of the AGTA
color fashion jewelry.”
Spectrum Awards™ in the men’s category. Some
of the gems featured in his acclaimed designs
Eric Jennings, men’s fashion director at Saks
are spessartite garnet, indicolite tourmaline,
Fifth Avenue, told Men’s Week that the retailer’s
tanzanite, blue sapphire, ruby and black Tahitian
men’s customer “is definitely more savvy than he
cultured pearl.
was a year or two ago. He’s been going through
a fashion renaissance so to speak and is much
Schneider cites a strong business in custom
more comfortable with personal style, correct
work for men. “We do a lot of rings and some
fit and accessorizing his look.” He anticipates
cufflinks, primarily in platinum and palladium,”
tailored clothing will be strong in the coming
he shares. “Many men like the substantial weight
of platinum, especially for rings. But some prefer
Mark Schneider Designs Star
Sapphire ring in platinum.
seasons, with a definite desire to be different and
special without being too extreme.p
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2013
Through the AGTA Spectrum Awards™, the American Gem Trade Association has been
honoring excellence in jewelry design and lapidary arts for 29 years. The competition
is viewed by the industry as a mark of outstanding quality and achievement. Earning
a Spectrum Award is regarded as one of the industry’s most esteemed honors, and
winners of this illustrious award truly define greatness.
......
AGTA Spectrum Awards categories include: Bridal Wear, Business/
The competition was judged October 20-21 in New York, NY. Judges for
Day Wear, Classical, Evening Wear, and Men’s Wear. Fashion Forward
the 2013 competition were Candace Edelman of Alex Sepkus, Jennifer
Honors recognizes the outstanding use of colored gemstone and/or cultured
Heebner of JCK Magazine, fine jewelry buyer Abby Huhtanen of Bergdorf
pearls in artful, trend-setting jewelry. Manufacturing Honors recognizes
Goodman, lapidarist Kiwon Jang, and designer Kimberly McDonald. The
the outstanding use of colored gemstones and cultured pearls in jewelry
annual AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Media Day was held October 22 and
appropriate to be manufactured in production quantities. Platinum Honors™
featured all of the jewelry and gemstone submissions. Attendees included
sponsored by Platinum Guild International, recognizes outstanding use of
top fashion/accessory editors from the trade and consumer press, stylists,
platinum in colored gemstone and/or pearl jewelry in the five Spectrum
and bloggers. Publications represented included Vogue, W, Elle, Harper’s
Awards categories and for the Best Use of Color and Platinum. Platinum
Bazaar, InStyle, Women’s Wear Daily, Marie Claire, Essence, NY Times
Honors™ includes: Entry Platinum Honors – Bridal Wear under $2,500
Magazine, and many more. The Editor’s Choice Award was selected by the
(semi-mount only), Platinum Honors Innovation – Classical under $3,500
media attendees.
and Platinum Honors Innovation – Day Wear under $2,000 (all prices
retail). Palladium Prestige™ sponsored by Palladium Alliance International,
Winning entries will be displayed during the 2013 AGTA GemFair™
recognizes outstanding use of palladium in colored gemstone and/or pearl
Tucson to be held February 5 - 10, at the Tucson Convention Center in
jewelry in the five Spectrum Awards categories and for the Best Use of
Tucson, Arizona. Stop by and vote at the Spectrum display for your favorite
Color and Palladium. New for 2013 is the Gem Diva™ Awards sponsored
winning design for the Buyer’s Choice Award. Please join us for this year’s
by the Women’s Jewelry Association, which will be presented in the Bridal
AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Gala sponsored by the Diamond Council of
Wear, Evening Wear and Business/Day Wear categories and is open to all
America where recipients will be recognized. The event starts at 7:00
women who enter.
pm Saturday, February 9. Tickets for the gala are $100, and cocktail attire
is encouraged.
The AGTA Cutting Edge Awards honor excellence and creativity of the
lapidary arts, including natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls,
Congratulations to all of our participants and winners. Special thanks to
carvings, other gem materials and objects of art in the U.S. and Canada.
the Spectrum Awards Committee and Judges, Platinum Guild International,
Classic Gemstones is limited to outstanding examples of ruby, emerald and
Palladium Alliance International, Women’s Jewelers Association and Last
sapphire with traditional gemstone cutting techniques. All Other Faceted
Word Communications.
Gemstones is open to outstanding examples of any gemstone that is faceted
with traditional gemstone cutting techniques. Phenomenal Gemstones is
On the following pages, youwill find the winning pieces.p
open to outstanding examples of any phenomenal gemstone (stars, cat’s
eyes, opals, etc.) with traditional gemstone cutting techniques. Pairs &
Suites is two or more gemstones to be judged as a set. Innovative Faceting
features innovative faceting and lapidary techniques. Carving is of any
natural gem material in any style. Objects of Art include carvings, bowls,
sculpture, intarsia, etc., of gem materials not intended to be worn. These
may or may not incorporate other non-gem materials as base, frame or
decorative component.
All entries go through a rigorous judging process. Judging is based on such
criteria as overall beauty and wearability, innovative design, effective use
of materials, quality of gemstones, quality of workmanship, broad-base
Pr ism
is distributed quarterly. F o r f u r t h e r i n fo r m a t io n
o r t o a d ve r t i s e , ple a s e c o nt a c t :
Joshua Garcia
American Gem Trade Association
3030 LBJ Frwy., Ste. 840 Dallas, TX 75234
800-972-1162 214-742-7334 FAX
consumer appeal and potential to generate positive publicity for natural
Cover: 2013 AGTA Spectrum Awards™- winning earrings by Erica Courtney.
colored gemstones and cultured pearls.
WINNERS PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN PARRISH PHOTOGRAPHY
A GT A P R I SM p V o l u m e I AG T A S p e c tr u m Awa r d s 2 0 1 3
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Best of Show
James W. Currens
J.W. Currens, Inc.
“Lava” Ruby and
Diamond ring
in Platinum.
Celebrating Color
Best Use of Color
Erica Courtney
Erica Courtney
Opal, Apatite and
tsavorite Garnet earrings
in 18K yellow gold.
“The AGTA Spectrum Awards™ competition
continues to grow,’” says Douglas K. Hucker,
CEO of the AGTA. Almost 500 entiries were
submitted, which is a 10% increase from last
year. Some of the most notable trends were
fine quality emerald, ruby and sapphire.
From designing with rough slices or visiting
a modern-day Victorian era, designers are
celebrating color.p
Editors’ Choice
Parul Kuki Seth
Parulina (Zaq, Inc.)
“Two Finger Glam”
ring featuring
Emeralds in 18K
yellow gold.
3
Best Use of Pearls
Anil Maloo
Baggins, Inc.
Akoya Pearls, South Sea
Pearls, Tahitian Pearls
and Diamond earrings
in14K white gold.
A G TA P R ISM p Volume I AGTA Spect rum Aw ards 2013
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Best Use of Palladium
& Color
Fashion Forward
Jennifer Dawes
Dawes Design
Aquamarine, Emerald and
Diamond necklace in 18K
yellow gold.
Cynthia Renée
Cynthia Renée, Inc.
“Owl Queen” brooch featuring
a carved petrified palm owl,
Mother of Pearl, a Tourmaline
crystal and Diamonds in
Palladium and stainless steel.
Best Use of Platinum & Color
Deirdre Featherstone
Featherstone Design
“Shangri-La” earrings featuring Opals,
Tanzanites, Sapphires, Tourmalines,
tsavorite Garnets, Diamonds and
Turquoise in Platinum.
A GT A P R I SM p V o l u m e I AG T A S p e c tr u m Awa r d s 2 0 1 3
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BRIDAL
1st Place
Robert Pelliccia
J.R. Dunn Jewelers
Pink Sapphire and Diamond ring
in Platinum.
Honorable Mention &
Palladium Prestige Award
Darryl Alexander
Alexander’s Jewelers
“Purple Passion” ring featuring a
freshwater Pearl accented with Sapphires
and Diamonds in Palladium.
2nd Place
Bella Campbell
Campbellian
Moonstone and Diamond earrings in
18K white gold.
Gem Diva
Pamela Froman
Pamela Froman Fine Jewelry
“Ice Princess” cuff featuring Moonstones
and Diamonds in Palladium.
3rd Place &
Manufacturing Honors
Giraux Fine Jewelry
“Rain Drop” earrings featuring pink
Spinels and Diamonds in 18K white gold.
Platinum Honors
Deirdre Featherstone
Featherstone Design
“Scheherazade” earrings featuring
Tahitian baroque Pearls and Diamonds
in Platinum.
Entry Platinum Innovation
Jake Wosinski
William Travis Jewelry
Sapphire and Diamond hand-engraved
ring in Platinum.
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5
3
2
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Congratulations to the 2013 AGTA Spectrum Awards “Platinum Honors” Winners.
Your exceptional designs beautifully demonstrate how well platinum, the world’s most precious naturally white metal,
complements brilliantly colored stones. Your achievements inspire us all.
To see these and other winning designs, visit preciousplatinum.com.
“PLATINUM HONORS” 2013 WINNERS
1. PLATINUM HONORS EVENING WEAR: CARA BECKER LICHTENSTEIN
2. PLATINUM BUSINESS DAY WEAR: ALISHAN
3. ENTRY PLATINUM INNOVATION CLASSICAL: JOE WORLEY DESIGNS 4. PLATINUM BRIDAL WEAR: FEATHERSTONE
5. BEST USE OF PLATINUM AND COLOR: FEATHERSTONE 6. ENTRY PLATINUM HONORS BUSINESS/DAY WEAR: MARK SCHNEIDER DESIGNS
7. PLATINUM FIRST PLACE MEN’S WEAR: NAOMI SARNA 8. PLATINUM HONORS CLASSICAL: RICHARD KREMENTZ GEMSTONES
9. BEST OF SHOW AND FIRST PLACE CLASSICAL: J.W. CURRENS 10. FIRST PLACE BRIDAL WEAR: J.R. DUNN JEWELERS
11. PLATINUM EVENING WEAR HONORABLE MENTION: LEON MEGÉ 12. ENTRY PLATINUM INNOVATION BRIDALWEAR: WILLIAM TRAVIS JEWELRY
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13. PLATINUM HONORS MENS WEAR: ANDREW COSTEN
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B U S I N ES S DAY W E A R
2nd Place
Manufacturing Honors
Honorable Mention
Gem Diva
Platinum Honors
Entry Platinum Innovation
Palladium Prestige Award
Gregore Morin
Gregore Joailliers
Japanese Plum Blossom earrings
featuring pink Opal and black and white
Diamonds in18K white gold.
Adeleh Petochi
Eclat Jewels, Inc.
Amethyst and Diamond cuff in 18K
rose gold.
Alishan Halebian
Alishan
Tahitian Pearl pin/pendant with Chrome
Diopside and Diamonds in Platinum.
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3rd Place
1st Place
Gregore Morin
Gregore Joailliers
Opal, Diamond and spessartite Garnet
ring in 18K white gold and black
ruthenium.
Devta Doolan
Devta Doolan Jewelry
Jade and black Diamond pendant in
22K yellow gold.
Mark Schneider
Mark Schneider Design
Freshwater Pearls and Diamond earrings
in Platinum.
Gregore Morin
Gregore Joailliers
“Lady leaf” earrings featuring Jade, Opal,
white Diamonds (.36 ctw.) and black
Diamond ladybugs in 18K white gold.
Caroline Chartouni
Caroline C
Rose Quartz and Diamond earrings in
18K pink gold.
Steph Farber
LeRoy Jewelers
Chalcedony, Quartz, Sapphire
and Diamond pendant in Palladium.
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John Parrish Photography
Illuminating Heroic Designs For Over 3 Decades
John Parrish 214.742.9457 Quitze Nelson 214.660.0887
www.johnparrishphotography.com
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CLASSICAL
1st Place
James Currens
J.W. Currens, Inc.
“Lava” ring featuring a Ruby and
Diamonds in Platinum.
2nd Place
Gigi Vivian Fitzmorris
The Gigi Collection
Bug pin featuring a Tahitian cultured
Pearl, Paraiba Tourmalines, Diamonds,
Sapphires and tsavorite Garnets in 18K
yellow gold and black rhodium.
3rd Place
Lilly Fitzgerald
Lilly Fitzgerald – Goldsmith
Labradorite necklace in 22K yellow gold.
Honorable Mention
Manufacturing Honors &
Honorable Mention
Cynthia Bach
Cynthia Bach, Inc.
Peacock brooch
featuring a carved
Labradorite, Coral,
Tanzanites, Paraiba
Tourmalines and multicolored Diamonds in
18K gold and platinum.
Monica Rich Kosann
“Secret” ring featuring an Alexandrite
and Diamonds in 18K yellow gold.
Platinum Honors
Maria Canale
Richard Krementz Gemstones
Alexandrite and Diamonds ring
in Platinum.
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Entry Platinum Innovation
Joe Worley
Joe Worley Designs
Spessartite Garnet pendant with
Sunstone, Garnets and Diamonds
in Platinum.
Gem Diva
Dallas Prince
Dallas Prince Designs
“Twilight Blush” earrings featuring
Morganites and white and black
Diamonds in 14K rose gold.
Palladium Prestige Award
Cynthia Renée
Cynthia Renée, Inc.
Tsavorite Garnet trio ring in Palladium.
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EVENING WEAR
1st Place
2nd Place
3rd Place
Manufacturing Honors
Honorable Mention
Honorable Mention
Gem Diva
Platinum Honors
Palladium Prestige Award
Anil Maloo
Baggins, Inc.
Akoya, South Sea and Tahitian Pearl
earrings accented with Diamonds in 14K
white gold.
Brent Malgarin
Elegant Gems, Ltd.
Multi-colored Sphalerite and Diamonds
earrings in 18K yellow gold.
Annie Fensterstock
White and fancy-colored Diamond cuff
accented with Sapphires in blackened
sterling silver and 22K yellow gold.
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Parul Kuki Seth
Parulina (Zaq, Inc.)
“Two Finger Glam” featuring Emeralds in
18K yellow gold.
Leon Mege
Leon Mege, Inc.
Purple Sapphire, Diamond and Ruby ring
in Platinum.
Cara Becker Lichtenstein
My Blue Heaven
Black Opal and Diamond pendant/
brooch in Platinum and black enamel.
Frank Caballero
Peridot and Diamond ring in 18K white
gold with black rhodium.
Caesar Azzam
Caesar’s Designs
“Printemps” ring featuring a pink
Tourmaline, tsavorite Garnets and white
cultured Pearls in 18K rose gold.
Elizabeth Garvin
Elizabeth Garvin Fine
Spiral cocktail ring featuring rose Quartz
and Diamonds in Palladium.
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MEN’S WEAR
1st Place
Naomi Sarna
Naomi Sarna Designs
Baroque Pearl cufflinks with multi-colored
Sapphires in Platinum.
3rd Place & Palladium Prestige Award
2nd Place
Daniel Allen
C. Kirk Root Designs
Alexandrite ring in 18K white gold.
Mark Schneider
Somewhere In The Rainbow
Rough-cut Diamond cufflinks with colorchange Garnet and Diamonds in Palladium.
Platinum Honors
Manufacturing Honors
Jack Bigio
Basser & Bigio, LLC
Paraiba Tourmaline cufflinks in 22K yellow gold.
Andrew Costen
Costen Catbalue
“Meteoric Sapphire” men’s
ring featuring a Gibeon
Meteorite and a Sapphire
in Platinum.
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C L A S S I C G EM S TO N ES
1st Place
Stephen Kotlowski
Uniquely K Custom Gem’s
3.46 ct. magenta custom-mixed
oval/marquee Sapphire.
2nd Place
Ray Zajicek
Equatorian Imports
3.08 ct. round natural Colombian
Emerald.
3rd Place
Sailesh Lakhi
Sparkles and Colors USA, Inc.
21.91 ct. oval blue Sapphire from
Sri Lanka.
Honorable Mention
Sailesh Lakhi
Sparkles and Colors USA, Inc.
70.08 ct. unheated oval yellow
Sapphire.
A L L OT H E R FAC E T E D G E M S TO N ES
1st Place
Ben Kho
Kho International, Inc.
16.02 ct. “Galaxy” cushion-cut
Rhodochrosite.
2nd Place
John Dyer
John Dyer & Co.
7.89 ct. radiant-cut, marquiseshaped Imperial Topaz.
3rd Place
Lisa Elser
Custom Cut Gems Co.
14.24 ct. oval red Tourmaline.
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CARVINGS
1st Place
Naomi Sarna
Naomi Sarna Designs
“L’Heure Bleu” Tanzanite (725
ctw.) carving on a sterling
silver base.
2nd Place
Naomi Sarna
Naomi Sarna Designs
Carved blue Topaz (147 grams)
on a sterling silver base.
3rd Place
Darryl Alexander
Doug Malby
43.81 ct. “Under the Sea”
carved and faceted multicolored Sunstone.
I N N OVAT I V E FAC E T E D G E M S TO N ES
1st Place
Jean-Noel Soni
Top Notch Faceting
7.7 ct. pink and gold bi-colored
West African Tourmaline.
2nd Place
Richard Homer
Gems by Design, Inc.
36.74 ct. antique, cushioncut Topaz.
3rd Place
Darryl Alexander
Nirinjan
94.5 ct. “Outa This World”
diamond-shaped negative and
bubble-faceted multicolored Sunstone.
Honorable Mention
Larry Woods
Jewels from the Woods
74.59 ct. specialty-cut golden Beryl.
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PA I R S & SU ITES
1st Place
Nandu Nichani
Temple Trading Co.
Graduated necklace, earring and
ring suite of blue Moonstones in
pear and heart-shaped cabochons
(137.50 ctw.).
2nd Place
Allen Kleiman
A. Kleiman & Co.
Suite of 16 unheated pear-shaped
and oval yellow Sapphires
(91.58 ctw.).
3rd Place
Aivan Pham
Somewhere in the Rainbow
“Dionysus Tears” 24 piece African
Amethyst (236.33 ctw.) suite
and pairs.
PH EN O M EN A L G EM S TO N ES
1st Place
Naomi Sarna
Naomi Sarna Designs
8.80 ct. fossil clam Opal.
2nd Place
Barbara Lawrence
Barbara Lawrence, Fine Gemstones
9.84 ct. oval rainbow “Moonstone”
Labradorite.
3rd Place
Robyn Dufty
DuftyWeis Opals, Inc.
41.20 ct. Mexican fire Opal titled
“The Rose.”
Honorable Mention
Stephen Kotlowski
Uniquely K Custom Gem’s
5.94 ct. oval color-change natural
Sapphire.
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OBJECTS OF ART
Somewhere In The Rainbow
1st Place
A Modern Gem & Jewelry Collection
Gregore Morin
Gregore Joailliers
“Aiko” - a Japanese
“Kokeshi” sculpture
featuring a Green
Opal accented with
Coral, Ferro-Horn
blende and Diamonds
set in platinum atop a
silver base.
Men’s Wear Palladium Prestige Award
Rough-cut Diamond cufflinks by Mark Schneider
2nd Place
Mark Schneider
Mark Schneider Design
“Haagen-Dazs Ice
Cream Bar” featuring
a Quartz covered with
sterling silver with a
brown patina, accented
with a brushed and
engraved 18K yellow
gold “stick”.
Pairs & Suites 3rd Place
"Dionysus Tears" by Aivan Pham
Your Hands-on Fine Colored Gemstone
Resource for Education, Exhibits
and Private Shows
Please Visit Us at AGTA
GemFair™ Tucson, Booth 1850
[email protected] photography by John Parrish
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comes to gemstones, I find I like light-colored stones—pink
love? “My style is classic with a little bit of an edge. When it
What kind of jewelry and fashion does Baccarin typically
jewelry and fashion.”
approach shopping in that way, you can’t go wrong—for both
they find something they love, they should buy it. When you
should try to become aware of interesting pieces and, when
unaware of what’s really out there in fine jewelry. People
“I think the average person is like me in that respect—we’re
few diamonds accenting.”
and rich and artistic—no ordinary pendants or rings with just a
piece. But everything in the Spectrum Collection was very intricate
to see was a lot of jewelry with so many different gems on a single
so many designers doing this kind of jewelry. One thing I didn’t expect
the 2013 AGTA Spectrum Awards. “Until now, I was unaware that there were
Baccarin’s eyes were opened to a genre of creativity she hadn’t known about through
many different roles in movies, TV, and theatre.
High School of Music & Art and Performing Arts and the Juilliard School—preparing her well for
she was young. Living in New York City, she attended such prestigious schools as the LaGuardia
journalist father and stage and TV actress mother, Baccarin and her family moved to the states when
of beauty and different art forms has been a significant force throughout her life. The daughter of a
design contest. While modeling artisanal jewelry of this ilk is new to Baccarin, her appreciation
Association (AGTA), is considered North America’s premier colored gemstone jewelry
The competition, now in its 29th year and sponsored by the American Gem Trade
By Lorraine DePasque
Whether she’s playing the wife of an American war
hero on Showtime’s Homeland, or wearing some
of America’s finest gemstone jewelry, Morena
Baccarin does it beautifully. The Brazilian-born
actress, who stars as Jessica Brody on the awardwinning TV drama, is also currently a celebrity
muse for the winning jewelry designs of the 2013
AGTA Spectrum Awards™.
M o r e n a B a cc a r i n S p a r k l e s
in
—Morena Baccarin
“My style is classic
with a little bit of an
edge. When it comes
to gemstones, I find
I like light-colored
gemstones.”
Spectrum Jewelry
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Ironically--or perhaps not--Morena Baccarin’s
family.”
Kahn Russell.
AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Collection bracelet by Amy
Joailliers and ring by Elizabeth Garvin Fine. 2013
Spectrum Awards™ winning earrings by Gregore
On Morena Dolce and Gabbana Dress. 2013 AGTA
AddMoreColorToYourLife.comp
See the hautest looks visit
wears from the 2013 AGTA Spectrum Awards.
creative, high-quality, individualized jewelry she
clothing choices sound very much like the very
things that are a bit edgy but still have a
classic longevity.”
casual dinner with friends or
were passed down to me, which I
often wear when going out to a
“Because they’re independent and they make
very creative, high-quality, individualized
earrings, both in black onyx, which
Wang, Romona Keveza, and Gary Graham,
instead of bigger, more well-known names.
herself choosing designers like Alexander
designs. “And when I put on gemstone jewelry,
ring. I have a simple gold ring and small
actress happens to be in, Baccarin finds
finds herself selecting smaller, more understated
I mostly prefer just a pair of earrings and a
But whatever color phase the acclaimed
professed “jeans and flats and tee-shirt kind of girl,”
pale. Other than that, I go through phases with
David Webb jewelry, which tend to be more statement
into really bright orange.”
gray a lot—all of it, from gunmetal to very
type events. “For those occasions, I’ve worn a lot of
the colors I buy in clothes--right now, I’m
and accessories in many shades of gray. “I like
bolder gemstone pieces when dressing for red carpet-
Conversely, in her private life for everyday, the self-
closet that’s filled with sweaters, dresses, jackets,
for her off-screen “civilian” life, she usually chooses
pieces and with brighter colored gemstones.”
The black onyx gems complement Baccarin’s
Although Baccarin favors a pastel palette of gemstones
monochromatic look.
-are set in 14K rose gold, giving them an easy-to-wear
pink cushion-cut gemstones-- 30.18 total carat weight-
that she designed “Twilight Blush,” as the rare lush-
jewelry designer, Dallas Prince, calls those earrings
gems.” The gems, in fact, were morganites. California
I was drawn to their simplicity and to the color of the
wore these beautiful drop earrings with pale pink stones.
that especially caught her eye? “Yes, in one of the shots, I
she wore during the AGTA Spectrum Awards photo shoot
gemstones—kind of smoky orange.” Was there anything
and pale yellow are pretty constant. I also like amber colored
......
......
AGTA Spectrum Award Winner 2013
myblueheavenjewels @ gmail.com
Chicago
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2013
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