Glossary - Bosweel

2016
Glossary
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ACC E SSO RI E S (French accessoires) Accessories, often ornamental items, e.g. buttons, handkerchiefs, cufflinks, ties and
bow ties.
APPLIQ U É Decorations sewn or glued on the fabric.
ALL-OV E R PRI NT Print or embroidery that completely covers
the item of clothing.
BABYCO RD O R PI N CO RD Corduroy is woven fabric with
a ridged pile. The number of ridges or wales per inch indicates
their width. Wide-wale corduroy is fabric with 0 - 10 wales
to the inch; standard corduroy has between 11 and 15 wales.
Needlecord is finer, with 14 - 18 wales, and babycord has
18 - 22 wales.
B I RD E YE A woven pattern that looks like a bird’s eye. Available as woven or knitted fabric in a characteristic geometric
pattern, with a centre something like a bird’s eye. Striking and
exclusive fabrics.
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B LEN D A blend or melange is the name for a yarn or fabric mixture. Mixing yarns of different colours produces a mottled fabric.
A blend may also be a mixture of different fibres of different
origins, such as polyester/cotton. Blending a natural fibre with a
synthetic produces a fabric with excellent qualities, since the fibres
complement each other.
BLO US E A woman’s shirt in a more feminine style.
BOW TI E (PRE-TI E D AN D S E LF -TI E D) Accessories with
dinner jackets and full evening dress. A bow tie is a narrow strip
of fabric tied at the neck in a bow. It is traditionally worn with
a dinner jacket. Bosweel’s range includes both pre-tied and selftied bow ties. Although a bow tie is considered an accessory for
a dinner jacket or evening dress, in fashion today it may be worn
with a suit as a smart alternative to a tie.
BOX PLE AT A double pleat (uniform style) at the centre of the
back or in a pocket. The pleat allows greater freedom of movement and mobility.
B ROC AD E A patterned fabric often used for waistcoats.
The name comes from Italian and means ‘embroidered’.
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B UT TO N - DOWN CO LL AR Collar with the points held down
by buttons.
C ANVAS Hard, coarsely woven cotton fabric.
C AS UAL Casual often means relaxed comfort in a sporty, easy-going and modern style. Casual is the opposite of formal wear.
C HAM B R AY Oxford Chambray is woven with a dyed warp yarn
and a white filling yarn, and has more weight than poplin. It is a
soft, strong fabric in basket weave, with two parallel warp yarns
and a softer filling yarn in the weft.
CO LLAR A collar is the piece of fabric on a shirt, dress, coat or
blouse that fastens at the neck. It consists of the collar and the
stand. There are countless types of collars, with points in different lengths and at different angles.
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CONTR AST A contrast is an effect in a different colour or
fabric. Some models from Bosweel has a contrast inside the cuff
or collar stand, or on the front or yoke, or in the colour of the
buttons. There may also be contrasting stripes on the front, or
contrasting thread may be used for the buttons or buttonholes.
A contrast may also be a decoration, such as visible stitching,
embroidery or a print.
COT TO N Cotton is a natural fibre obtained from the seed
capsules of the cotton plant. It is highly absorbent, breathable
and hard-wearing. Cotton clothing is easily machine washed and
often withstands high temperatures when washed and ironed.
C RIN KLE LOO K / C RUS H E D Fabrics with permanent fine
creases or a creased look. Often used in more casual clothes.
C U F F The cuff is the term for the end of a sleeve, and shirt
cuffs are held together by buttons or cufflinks. Cuffs come in
many different styles, and the height of the cuff varies. A more
formal shirt will usually have a double cuff (French cuff ), which
is folded back to reveal the inner side. French cuffs have extra
holes instead of buttons, and cufflinks are inserted to close the
sleeve at the wrist. Cufflinks are sold separately as accessories.
Bosweel’s cuffs have an extra buttonhole, so they can also be
worn with cufflinks
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C UM M E RB U N D (B L AC K TI E) A cummerbund is a garment
worn around the waist, often with a dinner jacket. It was
brought to Britain by army officers serving in India. The name
comes from the Urdu Kamarband. The form known today became popular in the 1920s. It is worn with the folds upwards, so
that a ticket can be placed in the folds.
CUTAWAY CO LL AR A collar with widely separated conical
corners. A classic that is acceptable with or without a tie.
D EN I M This usually means denim twill. White weft yarns are
used with blue or black warp threads. Denim withstands hard
washing and is very durable. Washing and wear effects are often
used to give denim a casual look, producing lighter areas in the
fabric.
D E NI M - LOO K A lighter fabric, often in cotton, which is not
washed as hard as ordinary denim.
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D I NN E R JAC KET (TUXE DO) A dinner jacket or tuxedo is
a formal jacket or suit with satin lapels. Dinner jackets are
normally black. They may be single or double-breasted, and are
worn over a white shirt, often with a wing collar. Dinner jackets
are worn for festive occasions after 6 pm. In terms of style a
dinner jacket (black tie) comes between a dark suit and full
evening dress (white tie). The dinner jacket originated in the late
19th century, when Henry Poole from London’s legendary Savile
Row made a short velvet jacket to be worn when smoking after
dinner. While a dinner jacket is called a ‘smoking’ in several
European languages, the garment called a ‘smoking jacket’ in
English is usually made in velvet and sometimes in other colours
besides black. In the USA a dinner jacket or suit was named a
tuxedo after Tuxedo Park in New York.
D IP- DYE I N G Colour effect achieved by dipping the garment
several times to different depths in the dye bath. It produces a
shaded effect on the garment.
DOU B LE FAC E Double face is a name for fabrics with a right
side on both sides. It can also mean two fabrics worked together.
DO B BY A dobby weave is usually an advanced construction that
creates a pattern in the surface of the fabric. Dobby weaving often
makes use of yarns in different thicknesses and different weaving
techniques, e.g. narrow twill edges on a single weave or a zig-zag
pattern.
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E ASY C ARE Care or treatment to make a garment crease resistant or dirt-repellent.
E L ASTAN E Elastane is an elastic synthetic fibre that is highly flexible
and dimensionally stable. It is primarily used in swimwear and lingerie,
but its stretch effect also improves fit and comfort in everyday clothing
including shirts.
E NZ YM E WAS H A softening wash with enzymes, which tones
down the colours of the fabric. A form of after treatment often
used on causal clothing.
F I L Á F I L End-on-end fabric (Fil à Fil) is woven with two
different yarns, producing an irregular effect in the fabric. It is a
fine, comfortable material, highly suitable for solid-coloured shirts
with structure.
F L AN NE L Flannel is fabric in a classic weave, woven as either
two-shaft or twill. It is made from loosely spun yarns, and
brushed on one side or both. This makes it very soft and warm.
Flannel is available both in solid colours and with patterns.
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F L AP POC KET A pocket with the opening covered by a flap.
This pocket type is seen on Bosweel’s uniform shirts.
F U LL E V E N I N G D RE S S White tie is the most formal festive
dress code for men. An open dress coat with tails is worn over
long trousers. Under the dress coat, a white shirt is worn, preferably with a starched front and wing collar, and a white waistcoat
and bow tie. The white tie and waistcoat are often made of piqué
fabric. The most formal dress code is known as white tie in English because of the obligatory white bow tie. It is worn at weddings and special evening occasions after 6 pm. In some formal
settings a black waistcoat is worn instead of white with evening
dress.
H E RRI N G BO N E Herringbone is a variation of twill weaving.
The difference is that the pattern zig-zags and looks like the
bones of a fish. An attractive weave with a fine effect.
HO U N DSTOOTH H Houndstooth is also known as dogtooth
or dogstooth. It is a two-toned textile pattern of broken squares
in four-pointed forms, often in black and white, although other
colours are also used. Very fine variants are called puppytooth.
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I NTE RLI N I N G Interlinings are made from woven material.
They are often single-coloured fabrics, used to stabilise the fabric of the garment. Interlinings are typically found in collars and
cuffs and on the button placket, and they are glued to the back
of the fabric. Bosweel only uses interlinings from the German
Wendler company.
JACQ UARD Often exclusive fabrics, jacquards are weaves or
knits in large and usually repeated patterns.
J E RS E Y Jersey is a generic name for all types of knitted goods
made of different materials.
J ETTE D POC KET Pocket openings with narrow fabric edges.
LINEN Linen fibre is obtained from the stalks of the flax plant,
and known for its high tensile strength. Linen is the strongest
plant fibre used for textiles, and is two or three times stronger
than cotton fibres. Linen fibres are also completely smooth, so
there is no pilling. At the same time linen fibres become softer
and more flexible the more they are washed. Linen fabrics are soft
and comfortable, with a cool feel when worn, and they crease naturally in use. Linen can be treated, for instance with an enzyme
wash, giving it a casual, extra soft look.
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MAN DARI N CO LL AR A mandarin collar is a short, upright stand
on a shirt without a collar. The mandarin collar starts at the placket, and is normally 2-5 centimetres high. The style came originally
from jackets and costumes worn by the Chinese Mandarins. The
front edges of a mandarin collar may be straight or rounded, and
the edges of the stand may meet or overlap.
M E RCE RIS E D COT TO N Mercerising is a process to improve
cotton. When fabric is treated with caustic soda, it shrinks by about
ten per cent, and thus becomes stronger, but dull. However, if the
fibre is held taut or even stretched while it is treated with caustic
soda, the fibres straighten out. (They are originally flat and form
spirals, though this can only be seen in a microscope.) This stretching changes the structure of the fibres, so that they become smooth
and shiny. Mercerisation gives cotton a sheen, which is retained
after washing and in use. The smooth surface is also more resistant
to wear, while the fabric is more receptive to dyes, and becomes
more durable. The attractive sheen is only achieved with the higher
qualities of cotton.
M I C ROF I B RE Microfibres are very fine fibres spun from polyamide or polyester. Fabrics woven from them are light and soft,
breathable but wind and waterproof, and easy to clean.
M ODAL Modal, e.g. as Polynosic / Modal fibre, is a type of
cellulose fibre, but its inner structure is different from viscose.
The cellulose molecules are longer, arranged closer together, and
more parallel.
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M OTH E R- O F - PE ARL Mother-of-pearl comes from the inner
layer of sea shells. It is used to make buttons and jewellery, and
is recognisable by its bright, shimmering lustre. Mother-of-pearl
is exclusive, varying from one button to another, so each has its
own unique appearance. Mother-of-pearl buttons are included
in Bosweel’s range as accessories to dress shirts.
NAT TÉ Natté is a French word for plaited, and the fabric is airy,
with a fairly loose, spaced-out weave with openings, making it
breathable. The weaving technique produces a fine fabric with a
sheen, exclusive material for an elegant shirt.
NATUR AL F I B RE All naturally occurring fibres, such as cotton,
linen, silk and wool.
N ECK L AB E L The tag or label at the neck. This shows the brand
name or logo – and is often sewn on the inside of the yoke of the
shirt.
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N O N- I RO N Shirts are never 100 % non-iron, but by combining fibres, yarns, bindings and weaves, fabric and treatment,
it is possible to achieve results that are more or less non-iron.
Non-iron properties can be achieved through the nature of
the yarn, mechanically (the weave) or chemically (by after
treatment). What a customer considers non-iron is individual,
and at Bosweel we use fabrics with an Easy Care finish. They
are crease-resistant, non-iron as far as possible, and withstand
repeated washing. It is advisable not to fill the washing machine
completely when washing non-iron shirts, and to hang them up
to dry immediately when the washing cycle is completed.
OXFO RD Fabrics named after the English university town,
with a weave that looks large, because double threads are always
woven together. The characteristic appearance is obtained by
weaving coloured and white threads together. Oxford fabric is
soft and breathable, and therefore very popular both for formal
shirts and for styles with a more casual look.
PAISLE Y A pattern with a teardrop shape, originally from
Persia.
PAT TERN RE PE AT The repeat or pattern repeat is the section
of a larger pattern which is always repeated.
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PE ACH F I N IS H Fabric treatment in which the fabric is brushed
or roughened to give it a very soft, downy surface: hence the
expression peach finish.
PETITE F LE U RS (French for small flower.) Small floral prints
that cover the whole of the fabric.
PI GM E NT DYE I N G A colouring method that leaves the fabric
with a casual, worn appearance, and it becomes increasingly
washed out with use and washing.
PI MA COT TO N The highest quality cotton. It was originally
cultivated by the Pima Indians in South America. It produces
long, very fine fibres, which are soft and strong and receptive
to colour.
PI N TU C KS A tuck sewn along the crease on trousers or an
appliquéd pleat on the front of a shirt.
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PIN STRI PE Contrasting fine stripes on a single-coloured
background.
PI PI N G Piping is a narrow strip, often in a contrasting colour,
often sewn onto the edge of a garment part, such as the edge of
the stand.
PI QU E Fabric with a relief-type weave that gives it a waffle
structure.
PLAI N WE AV E / C AN VAS B I N D I N G A strong, uniform and
slightly stiff fabric, depending on the nature of the yarn. The
name comes from the Dutch doek. Originally lighter than canvas,
but now synonymous with canvas. Fabrics with the same number
of threads and the same yarn quality in the warp and the weft are
square, and will not pull unevenly when washed.
PLE ATS A pleat is a fold between two pieces of fabric that are
sewn together. It allows greater freedom of movement and a better
fit. Pleats may be seen at the back, in the sleeves or near pockets.
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PLIS SÉ (French: Fold) Small creases or folds pressed into the
material while it is heated. Plissé may also be sewn tucks like
those on dress shirts.
PO LYAM I D E Polyamide has roughly the same properties as polyester. It has the greatest tensile strength of all synthetic fibres, and
is most hard wearing. Widely used in swimwear and sportswear.
PO LYESTE R In polyester the fibres are a category of polymer with
the units held together by ester linkages. Although there are many
different types of polyester, the term polyester often refers specifically to a material called polyethyleneterephthalate (PET). It is very
hard wearing, dimensionally stable and easy to care for. There are
different polyesters, which are often blended with other fibres and
used for practically all types of clothing. Polyesters do not crease
as easily as natural fibres, and have a high breaking strength. In
addition, polyesters can change their shape when exposed to heat,
which makes polyester blends ideal for plissé treatment to produce
permanent pleats.
POLYN OS I C Polynosic is another name for Modal, a modified
form of viscose. Some types of Polynosic can be mercerised.
Polynosic / Modal fibre is also a cellulose fibre, but the structure
in the core is different from viscose. The cellulose molecules are
longer; they are arranged closer together, and more parallel.
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PO PLI N Poplin is a closely woven fabric generally used for shirts.
Tightly woven weft and warp threads go over and under each other
to produce a smooth, uniform surface. Poplin can have an elegant
sheen, which is excellent for shirts. It is different from a single
weave in that the warp threads are closer, and often twice as close as
the filling yarn.
PRI N CE O F WALE S A woven check pattern inspired by a Scottish district check. The woven pattern is produced by colours in
both the warp and weft, which is used especially in woollen and
cotton fabrics.
RE PP Fabric with vertical and horizontal ribs. This effect is
obtained by using warp and weft threads in different thicknesses.
SATI N O R SATE E N Satin is used to describe any fabric woven
by the satin weave method in silk, cotton or wool. The weft
thread runs or floats over three to five warp threads before
running under a single warp thread. The crossings of the warp
threads on successive weft threads are staggered. This technique
gives the fabric a completely smooth appearance, so that the
woven structure is hard to see. Using warp threads in one colour
and weft threads in another produces a shot effect, with the colour changing at different angles. A satin weave can be used with
all fibres and threads, but is most often seen with silk, cotton
and various synthetic fibres. Satin is a closely woven fabric with
a smooth, shiny surface.
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S E E RS U C KE R The word seersucker derives from Persian šir o
šakar, meaning ‘milk and sugar’. Seersucker is fine cotton fabric,
woven in a special way to create the typical puckered stripes. It
is often used for summer clothes, or sportswear and casual wear.
Bosweel often has seersucker fabrics in the summer collection.
S H OT Elegant fabric that shimmers in two colours or more,
depending on the angle and the light. This effect is produced by
contrasting colours in the warp and weft. Often used as a lining
fabric.
S I LK Natural fibre obtained from the cocoon of silk moth
larvae (silkworms). Its low density makes it one of the most
comfortable fabrics, and it keeps its shape extremely well. Silk is
warm in the winter and cool in summer. Its appearance may be
light, shiny or shimmering. An exclusive natural material.
STRETC H When yarns with elastic properties are combined
with non-elastic yarns, the fabric becomes stretchable. The
clothes made from it allow greater freedom of movement and
comfort.
TH RE AD Sewing thread is specially robust yarn made of several
threads twisted together for maximum strength. Thread is used for
seams and buttonholes and for decorative stitching. The threads
used by Bosweel are European quality threads supplied exclusively
by the Amann company.
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TI E A tie is a long, lined and folded strip of fabric which hangs
from the collar to the waist of the trousers. Ties are normally worn
with a shirt and jacket, or simply with a shirt. They vary greatly in
width, according to fashion, and are made of many different materials. The tie developed from the cravat, and can be traced back to
the middle of the 17th century. Besides being an accessory, ties are
also used to show memberships of various groups, army regiments,
particular clubs, schools or lodges.
TRI M M I N G S A decorated or appliquéd edge, e.g. piping or
binding.
T WE E D This was originally hand-woven woollen tweel, Scottish for twill. Today hand-woven Harris Tweed comes from
the Hebrides, and Donegal Tweed from Ireland, but tweed is
also woven at weaving mills. Tweed is often used for overcoats,
jackets and suits.
TWI LL Twill is a method of weaving which produces a diagonal
pattern in the fabric. The warp and weft threads always cross at
least two other threads. The weave is stepped to give it the diagonal twill appearance. The materials are often fairly soft.
VE LO U R / VE LVET Velour is a knitted cotton fabric with a
soft pile. Velvet appears similar, but is a woven fabric with a silk
pile.
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VISCOS E Viscose is a regenerated fibre, produced or reconstituted from other materials such as wood, cotton waste or other
plant material with a high cellulose content. Viscose is absorbent and conducts heat away from the body well, while it has
an acceptable tensile strength. It is also easily dyed, withstands
cleaning and washing, and it is an inexpensive raw material, so
it is popular for producing textiles.
WAISTCOAT A waistcoat is a sleeveless garment normally worn
over a shirt and under a jacket. It is considered the third item in a
three-piece suit. A waistcoat has a vertical opening in front, often
closed with buttons, and it may be double or single breasted. A
waistcoat may also have lapels. Sometimes it is still customary to
leave the lowest button undone. A waistcoat is worn under the
jacket with full evening dress.
WOV E N PLE ATI N G A special fabric with a woven pleated
effect. Used on the front of exclusive dress shirts.
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Glossary
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WOO L Wool is generally made from the fleeces of sheep. Other
animal fibres which are suitable for spinning may also be called
wool together with the name of the animal. Examples of animal
fibres that resemble wool are alpaca, llama, vicuña, cashmere
and angora from goats or rabbits. Wool is a natural fibre that
varies a great deal. The quality of the fibres (staples) varies from
one animal to another, and also depends on the climate, the
breed and health of the animal, and what it feeds on. Woollen
products have a more or less water-repellent surface, because
they contain lanolin, but they still absorb moisture. The natural
crimp of the fibre gives it elasticity, and it is a fantastically warm
material for clothing.
There are countless names for qualities of wool – here are
just a few:
Cool wool is a very light fabric made of pure new wool. Cool
wool is good for temperature regulation and to some extent
crease resistant. Lambswool is the soft wool obtained the first
time a lamb is shorn, at the age of six months. Lambswool is
very fine and soft. Merino is very fine quality wool from merino
sheep. The fibres are long, soft and heavily crimped.
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Glossary
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YARN The yarn is defined as the thread used to weave the
fabric. It consists of fibres, which are processed to form the
yarn. Natural fibres are found in many different lengths, while
chemical fibres are cut to the desired lengths. The appearance
of the fabric depends very much on the surface and form of the
fibre, and a crinkled fibre with a rough surface is easier to spin
than a straight, smooth fibre.
When fibres are spun, they are twisted, so they become stronger and can be used for weaving fabrics. When two threads are
twisted together, they form a strong, durable yarn, which is
called a 2-ply. Shirt fabrics may be woven with 2-ply yarns, and
depending on the direction of the twist, they may be called
S-twist or Z-twist. The direction of the twist of the yarn can affect the final properties of the fabric, and combining both twist
directions can balance the tendency to skew in knitted fabric.
Fabrics are never better than the yarn that is used, and it is
often the yarn that has the greatest influence on the quality and
properties of the fabric.
YO KE
The yoke is a separately cut section at the top of a garment such
as a shirt. On Bosweel men’s shirts the yoke is in double fabric,
and supports the fit.
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