journal - Louis Moinet
Transcription
journal - Louis Moinet
tradition An exclusive Panerai OP XXV movement revives an historical link with Minerva. agility Panerai’s newest sports-ready timer brings tachymeter functionality to the Radiomir 1940. a sandow publication WEMPE VAN CLEEF & ARPELS VACHERON CONSTANTIN UNDERWOOD LONDON ULYSSE NARDIN ® TUTIMA TUDOR [journal] TOURNEAU TAG HEUER SIHH shinola SEIKO ROGER DUBUIS RICHARD MILLE RALPH LAUREN PIAGET PATEK PHILIPPE PARMIGIANI ORBITA OFFICINE PANERAI motoart MONTBLANC MAURICE LACROIX LUMINOX JAEGER-LECOULTRE IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN GREUBEL FORSEY GIULIANO MAZZUOLI FRED SEGAL CARTIER BREMONT BREGUET BELL & ROSS BAUME & MERCIER BALL WATCH CO. AUDEMARS PIGUET A. LANGE & SÖHNE 04: 2014 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . com the watch magazine redefined style The polished platinum case holds a thick Plexiglas crystal in a nod to history. OFFICINE PANERAI RADIOMIR 1940 CHRONOGRAPH PLATINO (PAM 518) APRIL 2014 Display until 05/19/14 + Five Minutes with... SCOTT DIXON | THE I RL CHAMP AND HIS D RI V I NG PASSI ON text by: Keith W. Strandberg 2013 IndyCar Series champion Scott Dixon is no stranger to success. He has been a “It’s a lot of fun to be involved in the creation of a watch and have input into the design.” champion at every level of open wheel racing. With three championships in all and an Indy 500 win (in 2008), the New Zealand–born driver is considered the most successful competitor in the Indy Racing League. And, over time, Dixon has become an ardent watch lover. — Scott Dixon ACCELERATION Louis Moinet Scott Dixon chronograph in its box COLLABORATION Dixon has collaborated with 060 04:2014 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . com louismoinet.com 1 1,9 0 0 + h, $ high-end Swiss watchmaker Louis Moinet on a special edition two-pusher chronograph (limited to 365 pieces) bearing his name, and he was wearing one when we did this interview. The project came about through a personal contact: Dixon’s manager is good friends with Louis Moinet president Jean-Marie Schaller, and they decided to produce a watch together. “It’s been a blast working with Louis Moinet, and I absolutely love the watch,” Dixon says. “It’s a lot of fun to be involved in the creation of a watch and have input into the design. In the future, I could see doing watches with specific functions that I would use, both in and out of the car.” So, in addition to watching Dixon on track, we may soon be watching this champ’s watch designing career gaining speed. ra p most important factor in racing. “Time is how we are measured,” he explains. “It’s all about getting around the lap the quickest and finishing the race quickest. Everything is down to the 1,000th of a second, and the competition is fierce.” “When I am in the middle of a race, I receive updates every three corners about how my lap is going, and I have a digital read-out in the car,” he continues. “Some of the changes we can make, dampers or aerodynamics, can make the car quicker in the straights but not as quick in the corners, so I need to be constantly aware of how the lap is going. Some drivers don’t use this kind of read-out, because it can be distracting—they might push harder and get reckless if they are losing too much time.” og while driving competitively in IRL races (watches and jewelry are deemed too dangerous in the event of a crash or a fire). But he often wears a watch when he is racing in other events. “During the 24 Hours of Daytona, for example, I wore a watch, and I looked at it often, because I wanted to have a sense of where I was in the 24 hours,” he points out. Not surprisingly, for Dixon, time is the on TIME ON TRACK Because it’s against the rules, Dixon doesn’t wear a watch Dixon on track for Target Chip Ganassi Racing hr “When I first started making any kind of money in racing, I bought a Rolex Daytona. It was an easy choice because it’s an iconic watch that has meaning for me as a racing driver,” Dixon explains. “Over the years, I eventually graduated to harderto-find pieces, like some of the limited Panerai pieces. Today, I have about 35 or 40 watches, some of which I keep in their boxes as collectibles. At some point, though, I will probably end up wearing them.” True to his nature as an athlete, Dixon prefers sporty watches. “I like chronographs,” he confirms. “And I don’t have any leather strap watches—for me, a rubber strap has become the norm.” T he L o uis M oi ne t S co ix tt D on c + WATCH JOURNAL REVIEW REWARDING ENDEAVOR | INTERNATIONAL CHRONOMETRY COMPETITION ANNOUNCES WINNERS TEXT BY: KEITH W. STRANDBERG Chronometry paired with competition—it’s an old idea that is making a comeback but not without both resistance and controversy. The modern, biennial International Chronometry Competition introduced by the Musée d’Horlogerie du Locle in 2009 puts entered timepieces through a tortuous program of testing in an effort to identify the best timekeepers being produced today. WINNERS’ CIRCLE CLASSIC CATEGORY: FIRST PLACE: Tissot Concours Calibre A86.502 SECOND PLACE: Tissot Concours Calibre A86.501 The testing involves three rounds of measurements carried out in the laboratories of the Besançon Observatory in France and the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute in Biel, Switzerland. The watches also undergo exposure to severe magnetic fields and shocks at the Haute École Arc in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, before the final round of timekeeping measurements. To put this in perspective, both the current COSC certification for chronometer precision and the prestigious Geneva Seal certification involve only one round of testing. The International Chronometry Competition requires that a watch meets the international chronometer standard three times in succes- sion, the third time after exposure to intense shocks and magnetic fields. Also, the watches are not allowed to be adjusted at any time after they are submitted to the competition. With such stringent criteria, it’s no wonder that participation is a hard sell. Of all the watchmakers in the world, only 17 participated in the latest edition of the competition, entering a total of 38 watches into the contest’s three categories: Classic (for non-tourbillon watches), Tourbillon, and School (for watches produced by students). By design, the International Chronometry Competition is extremely difficult to win, and any watches that survive the competition are to be applauded. The winners were an- nounced on October 24, 2013. In the Classic category, of the 20 pieces entered, 12 of them passed all three tests. In the tourbillon category, there were seven entries, and a tourbillon by Les Ateliers L. Leroy was the only survivor; the others could not withstand the ordeal of shocks and magnetism. And out of 12 entries in the School category, two were successful. (It is worth noting that the last time the contest was held, no school entries passed all the tests.) “I think the competition sets a good benchmark,” says Jean-Marie Schaller, president, Louis Moinet, which took the third-place prize in the Classic category. “The chronometry competitions that were held decades and centuries before From left: Tissot Concours Calibre A86.502, L. Leroy Osmior Tourbillon Régulateur, Louis Moinet Mecanograph 098 04:2014 | W A T C H J O U R N A L . C O M THIRD PLACE: Louis Moinet Mecanograph TOURBILLON CATEGORY: FIRST PLACE: Les Ateliers L. Leroy SCHOOL CATEGORY: FIRST PLACE: Mathieu Douik SECOND PLACE: Maxime Bettinelli were standards of excellence, and they were taken seriously by watchmakers.” Given the number of watches that fail, should the criteria be relaxed? Competition organizers don’t think so. Some makers will opt not to participate because they don’t want to lose, but that’s something the International Chronometry Competition is willing to accept in order to keep its standards high. This way, a win is really something worth celebrating. “The big names from historical chronometry championships, brands like Longines, Zenith and Rolex, should come back,” Schaller comments. “There are many awards around the world, but this one is based on technology. I hope that more companies come into it and take it seriously.” The deadline for submissions in the next International Chronometry Competition is January 31, 2015. concourschronometrie.org