The incredible Mohonk Mountain House, in New Paltz, N.Y. The

The incredible Mohonk Mountain House, in New Paltz, N.Y.
Love the outdoors? Ulster County,
located in the Catskill Mountain area of
the Hudson River Valley, is just the ticket. There’s beautiful scenery and loads
of things to do outdoors, plus there great
shopping and dining as well. And Ulster
County is the home of Mohonk Mountain
House.
Mohonk Mountain House
Photo by Jim Smith
The classic main dining room at the Mohonk
Page 22, Vitality, June 2008
At least once in your life, you have
to stay at the Mohonk Mountain House,
located six miles west of New Paltz. It is
truly one-of-a-kind...magical.
The Mohonk is a 265-room Victorian
castle retreat on 2200 acres that has been
roughly compared to New Hampshire’s
Balsams. But unlike the latter, the Mohonk
is still family owned and operated--and has
been since its inception 140 years ago--and
by the SAME FAMILY. It is one of American’s oldest family-owned resorts, and is
completely unspoiled. In fact, in 1994 the
resort received an award from the UN Environmental Programme recognizing 125
years of environmental stewardship.
The history of Mohonk goes back to
1869 when a Quaker named Albert K. Smiley bought 280 acres, an inn with ten small
bedrooms, and all of Lake Mohonk, for
$28,000. The place became a retreat with
A calm early morning on Lake Mohonk
The Mohonk’s ice skating rink
Quaker values: no drinking in public areas,
no dancing, no cards. It was instead a place
to drink in nature in all its beauty, quiet,
and solitude. In spite of its never advertising much, word of the place spread over
the next 140 years, and the place grew and
grew.
Presently run by Bert Smiley (the
fourth Smiley generation), you can drive
up and park at the Mountain House upon
arriving. Up until the 1940’s, however,
they’d have you park at the gatehouse and
take a horse-drawn carriage to the place—
the idea being for guests to get in the right
frame of mind. Even today, walking trails
are off-limits to motor vehicles, and signs
on the entrance road say “Slowly and Quietly Please.” And you even notice the delightful chorus of birdsong you hear upon
awakening each morning at the Mohonk.
The Mohonk has 85 miles of hiking
trails, several tennis courts (Har-Tru clay
and conventional), lake swimming, boating, fishing, ice skating, cross country
skiing, snowshoeing, rock climbing and
golfing on a 110-year-old course that is
fashioned in the old links tradition of St.
Andrews, Scotland.
In keeping with the Quaker-inspired
love of quiet and solitude, you will find no
phone or TV in your room—although TVs
and phones are available in public areas.
Pretty much all the guests “get this.”
There is loads for you to do on your
own; plus, there are optional scheduled
group activities all day. There’s a movie
screened nightly in the resort as well as a
live presentation--maybe a talk of some
sort. Plus there’s often live music.
The resort’s historic observance of
temperance has been modified. The resort’s
three restaurants serve alcohol; and there is
a Lounge. Of course, they didn’t have that
until 1969.
Rates are all-inclusive, with the exception of horseback riding, carriage rides,
weekend golf and Spa services. Three
meals daily are included in room rates, as
A walk through the Mohonk’s Barn Museum is a trip back in time.
Overlooking the lake from the Mohonk Mountain House
well as afternoon tea.
The food is absolutely superb. There’s
no lack of options or quality. Breads and
other baked goods and desserts are all made
on the premises, and are only served fresh.
The daily lunch buffet is impressive, with
six different meat dishes plus a carving
station, served in the high-ceilinged Main
dining room with century-old woodwork
that is to die for. The tables are linen-covered and you have an expansive view of the
Rondout Valley. One wonders how you can
top this come dinner time.
(And by the way, if you hook a legal
sized trout in Lake Mohonk while you’re
staying at the resort, they’ll gladly cook it
for you.)
The Mohonk is a self-contained community on the mountain. It has 800 fulltime employees, owns and maintains its
own roads, forests, and plantings.
The 30,000 sq. foot Spa wing—com-
pleted in 2005--is another great reason to
visit the Mohonk. There’s an indoor heated
swimming pool, comprehensive fitness
center, and Spa treatments ranging from
massages to manicures. For more information, call 877-877-2664.
Before you leave the Mohonk, don’t
forget to visit the Barn Museum. This is
where everything that the Mohonk has
purchased and used for the past 130 years
goes to rest, including an assortment of
their 19th century horse-drawn carriages.
Plus you’ll see curator Jim Clark give craft
demonstrations, including rustic carpentry,
blacksmithing, restoration of carriages and
farm machinery and pottery making. Clark
enjoys his work at the barn immensely,
saying of the barn, “They have the entire
19th century squirelled away in there.” Indeed, it is really interesting to see centuryold appliances or tools, especially in regard
to how substantially they were made back
Page 23, Vitality, June 2008
then. Most are still reportedly in working
order.
The Mohonk’s clientelle tends to
come from New York City, Connecticut,
New Jersey and western Massachusetts.
However, it is largely unknown to those
living in eastern Massachusetts. That will
change however. With the economy the
way it is, and flying not much fun anymore,
folks are thinking more in terms of driveto vacations. Cape Codders tiring of their
old vacation haunts in Vermont and New
Hampshire, are discovering upstate New
York. Many are delighted to learn that the
driving time to a place like the Mohonk is
no more than driving to North Conway,
New Hampshire—about 5 to 5 1/2 hours.
This summer will feature a Festival of
Arts at the Mohonk from July 6th to Aug.
22nd. For more information, go to www.
mohonk.com.
The Old Dutch Church in Kingston, N.Y.
Page 24, Vitality, June 2008
New Paltz:
While you’re at the Mohonk, you’ll
want to visit the city of New Paltz—just
15 minutes away. This college town--home
of S.U.N.Y./New Paltz--is located at exit
18 off the N.Y. Thruway. The town offers a
myriad of great shopping and dining downtown. And yes, you can tell it’s a college
town—one with a decidedly 70’s feel to it.
While there, be sure not to miss the Water
Street Market, located at 10 Main St. It contains many antique dealers, boutiques and
eateries. (www.waterstreetmarket.com)
For lunch, try the Village Tea Room,
on Plattekill Ave. Their baked goods, desserts and breads are made from natural
ingredients, and the desserts are made
with a European sensibility as far as not
oversweetening. (www.thevillagetearoom.
com)
Also, be sure to visit the Huguenot
Settlement along Huguenot St., which
dates from 1678 when a dozen Calvinist
The restored Old French Church and Cemetery on Huguenot St., Kingston, N.Y.
families from south Belgium and France
made New Paltz their home. Today the
20-acre site is surrounded by a 50-acre
preserve. All the stone homes are open as
home museums--many supported financially by descendants of the families who
originally lived in each house.
A walk through the cemetery on Huguenot St. reveals stones that go back to the
early 1700’s. (www.huguenotstreet.org)
Kingston:
Located off the N.Y. Thruway’s exit
19, Kingston was the original capital of
New York. It was also the largest intact
early Dutch settlement in New York, and
the third oldest city in New York. Since
the government of New York was formed
there, the history of the area makes it an
interesting place to visit, expecially the socalled Stockade Area.
In 1658, sixty or seventy European
settlers living along the Esopus Creek
were ordered by Colonial Governor Peter
Stuyvesant to resettle in an area fortified by
a 14’ high stockade within Kingston—an
area which became known as the Stockade.
And although the city was later torched by
the British during the Revolutionary period (1777), the original stone (rubble-constructed) homes still stand. They bear the
The Bevier House on Huguenot St.
history today of one of the oldest neighborhoods in America. A wonderful self-guided
tour map is available from the Friends of
Historic Kingston, located across from the
old Dutch Church. There are also walking
tours by appointment (845-339-0720).
Kingston’s Old Dutch Church was
erected in 1852. The magnificent steeple
contains a bell made in Amsterdam in
1794. In the churchyard is buried the first
governor of New York, George Clinton—
one of the most revered men in American
history--yet one you never hear about today. Clinton was Brigadier General in the
Revolutionary War. He was the first governor of New York and was re-elected to that
office SEVEN TIMES. Clinton also served
as Vice President of the United States under Thomas Jefferson and James Madison,
started the Univ. of the State of N.Y., invented the ROTC program to maintain a
peacetime military capability, started the
Public School system in N.Y., and helped
rescue Washington’s men at Valley Forge.
He was considered by all to be a truly
moral man, and was thought of so highly
by those in Kingston, that his body was returned from Washington, DC to lay at rest
in Kingston in 1907.
The Senate House historic site is another must-do in Kingston. It was actually
the home of Abraham van Gassbeek, and
doubled as the meeting place of the state’s
early Senate. A nearby museum on the
grounds celebrates this chapter in history.
(http://tinyurl.com/3sr2dv)
While in Kingston, don’t miss dining
at Le Canard Enchaine, on Fair St. This
French restaurant has a most atmospheric
Piano Bar. The food is superb, and the presentation is five-star. (www.le-canardenchaine.com)
One of the most charming restaurants
in the area is the Hoffman House, on North
Arcaded sidewalks line the street in the Stockade area of Kingston
A young explorer finds his way along a marsh causeway to the Saugerties Lighthouse
Front St. The building dates from 1679 and
was saved from the wrecking ball a few
years ago by Pat and Ginny Bradley, who
turned it instead into a showplace. On warm
days, there’s nothing better than lunching
al fresco under their canopied terrace out
back. Plus their menu isn’t one you have to
look over repeatedly to find something you
like. (www.hoffmanhousetavern.com)
Downtown shopping in Kingston is a
delight as the old downtown is punctuated
with sidewalk arcades, originally designed
by John Pike and built in the 1970’s. Visitors love going through the art and antique
galleries and boutiques.
While in Kingston, drive across town
to Rondout Landing, a spot whose origin
is explained by the fact it is one of only three
deep-water ports on the Hudson. Today,
this is a fun area that celebrates Kingston’s
riverfront with boutiques, shops, galleries,
restaurants and bars that occupy former
19th century maritime buildings. Be sure to
take in the Hudson River Maritime Museum. (www.hrmm.com). And there’s also
a Trolley Car Museum across the parking
lot that is a stroll down memory lane for
those who ever hopped a trolley.
Emerson Resort & Spa
A half-hour west of Kingston is the
new incarnation of the Emerson Resort &
Spa, located at Mt. Tremper. The original
24-room bed and breakfast, which was
built in 1864, burned down two years ago
in a tragic forest fire. That structure had
the theme of traveling to foreign lands,
and was known for its imaginative, eclectic decor. The new Emerson actually improves on this, with its more unified Silk
Road decor theme, and rooms designed by
Anthony di Giuseppe to offer a genuinely
Morrocan decor. The adults-only Inn consists of 25 suites, which each have: a fireplace, an air-jetted tub and a private deck
with a view of the Esopus Creek. There is
Page 25, Vitality, June 2008
The corner of Crown and John Sts. in Kingston is the oldest intersection in US where there are four 18th century stone buildings still standing.
also a neighboring “Lodge” at the Emerson
with larger suites geared towards families.
(www.emersonresort.com)
The Spa at the Emerson is their biggest drawing card. It is New York’s only
4-star rated Spa outside of Manhattan (according to Mobil Travel guide). Resort/Spa
packages are so popular that guests are
warned to make their spa arrangements
when originally booking their stay. An extensive fitness club is also available on the
premises. And there’s golfing just minutes
down the road.
Dining at the Emerson’s Phoenix
Restaurant is sheer pleasure. The decor
is totally Moroccan. And the menu offers
many attractive choices, including one of
the most flavorful sea bass entrees you’ll
ever have. Lighter fare is available at the
Spa Cafe.
The Country Store at the Emerson
is a sprawling facility that offers a little of
everything, from furniture to clothing. And
then there’s the Kaleidoscope Shop, which
has an interesting genesis: The structure
housing the Country Store was originally
a barn and a silo. The owners wanted to
save the silo, but needed a reason to. So
they ingeniously designed a 37-foot high
kaleidoscope, using the silo as the barrel.
Page 26, Vitality, June 2008
To see their ten minute show you enter the
silo and watch the ceiling. After the show,
one appreciates the dozens and dozens of
hand-crafted kaleidosopes on display for
sale in the Country Store all the more. You
won’t see anything like them anywhere.
It’s amazing how artistically a kaleidoscope can be designed. There’s also an
assortment of cardboard-constructed ones
available for the kids. (www.kaleidostore.
com)
Woodstock:
No, the Woodstock festival was not
actually held here. It took place in Bethel,
NY, in Sullivan County--one county south
of Ulster County. But that little fact hasn’t
stopped this enterprising town from taking
advantage of the commonly held myth. The
town’s commercial area is lined with several colorful (a la 70’s) shops, boutiques
and eateries. It’s great fun and worth the
visit.
Saugerties:
Take Rt. 212 east from Woodstock and
you’ll wind up in Saugerties, whose downtown shopping area is a bit more down to
earth in its offerings.
While in town, be sure to follow signs
to the Saugerties Lighthouse. This is a
park-and-hike situation. You trek across a
marsh pedestrian causeway for about 20
minutes before the sight of this storybooklooking lighthouse breaks through the tall
marsh grass. Located on the Hudson River,
this 1869 original construction doubles as
a bed and breakfast. And the owners don’t
mind if you walk out and make yourself at
home (briefly) on the back deck that’s right
on the Hudson. The tricky part is that it is a
fairly long walk getting to the Lighthouse.
Turns out those staying at the B&B have
to make the same walk. But it must be part
of the place’s charm; this B&B is booked
a year in advance. (www.saugertieslighthouse.com)
While in Saugerties, take time to drive
down some of the roads between the downtown shopping area and the Lighthouse’
parking lot. There are many stately Victorian homes.
Special notes:
- Ulster County is a four-season at-
The suites at the Emerson Resort & Spa all share a Silk Road theme.
The Emerson Resort and Spa. To the far right is the Country Store. Left of that is the Kaleidascope Silo, then the Phoenix Restaurant, the Spa, and the Resort to the left.
traction for tourists. For Cape Codders,
there are closer destinations for skiing. But
Ulster’s Belleayre Ski Area is a state-run
facility that is much more economical than
the privately-owned ones located in other
parts of New England (www.bellayre.
com).
- Ulster County even has two Dude
Ranches: Pinegrove (www.pinegroveranch.com) and Rocking Horse (www.
rockinghorseranch.com).
- Golfers will be amazed at how inexpensive the greens fees are in Ulster
County. Public golfing ranges from $3560, with cart, and although you need tee
times, there’s usually no waiting.
- Antique lovers will really enjoy Ulster County. For the locations of area antique dealers, go to www.ulsterantiques.
com.
- There are 12 wineries in the county.
At the Whitecliff Vineyard, located 20
minutes southwest of New Paltz, partner
Yancey Stanforth indicated that 2007 was
a banner year in both flavor and size of
harvest, for grape growers in the area. As
she poured wine for tasters, she explained,
“When you are tasting wines: gum, coffee
and toothpaste keep you from really tasting
the wines accurately. She also explained
that there should always be two sips. “On
the first sip your palate is adjusting to the
acidity. The second sip is actually when
you find out what the wine tastes like.” She
also mentioned that this is one of the oldest
grape growing areas in the country...going
back to the Huguenots. “That all changed
with Prohibition, when the area changed
from growing grapes to growing apples.
It’s slowly changing back to grapes, however.” Whitecliff is in their 10th year and
have 25 acres planted with grapes. Unfortunately, New York boutique vineyards like
Whitecliff cannot ship wine to Massachusetts. (www.whitecliffwines.com)
- There are dozens of farms and farm
stands all over the county. Some towns
have their own Farmer’s Markets – usually on Saturdays. There are also a number of places in the county where you can
buy local grass fed, organic beef, at prices
that are more down to earth than buying
through the internet.
- Esopus Creek has world-class trout
fly-fishing. It is also a Class IV kayaking
stream.
- Birdwatchers can secure a free map
featuring the best birdwatching from Ulster
County Tourism, or go to www.jbnhs.org.
- For those who would like to take in
all the Hudson River lighthouses, go to
www.hudsonlights.com.
- There are hiking opportunities galore in Ulster County. For a free brochure
outlining your hiking options, or for other
information on visiting Ulster County, call
800-342-5826, or go to www.ulstertourism.info.
To get to Ulster County, you simply
take 495 to the Mass Pike west, and then
the N.Y. Thruway south to exits 18 through
20. It’s a comfortable drive from Cape
Cod.
And thanks for traveling!
The exquisitely Morroccan Lounge at the Emerson Resorts “Phoenix Restaurant”
Page 27, Vitality, June 2008