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Santiago de Chile
Cuba and Dominican Republic
May – June 2009
Jim Russell
Contents
Contents ........................................................................................................................ 1
Monday 25-May-2009
Trinidad to Camagüey................................................ 48
Itinerary ......................................................................................................................... 3
Tuesday 26-May-2009
Camagüey to Santiago de Cuba ............................... 53
Itinerary – Chile – Cuba – Dominican Republic – May - June 2009 ...................... 3
Maps.............................................................................................................................. 7
Wednesday27-May-2009
Thursday 28-May-2009
Caribbean Flights....................................................................................................... 7
Friday 29-May-2009
Cuba and the Dominican Republic ............................................................................. 8
Saturday 30-May-2009
Santiago de Chile, Cuba and the Dominican Republic.................................................... 9
Wednesday 13-May-2009
Friday 15-May-2009
Melbourne to Santiago de Chile............................. 9
Santiago de Cuba ................................................. 57
Santiago de Cuba to Guardalavaca ......................... 65
Guardalavaca ............................................................... 67
Guardalavaca to Havana .......................................... 69
Sunday 31-May-2009
Havana - Departure day ............................................. 71
Domincan Republic ...................................................................................................... 73
Santiago de Chile .................................................... 10
Monday 01-June-2009
Cabarete................................................................... 73
Santiago de Chile ......................................................... 15
Tuesday 02-June-2009
Cabarete.................................................................. 74
Santiago to Havana.................................................. 18
Cuba............................................................................................................................ 19
Wednesday 03-June-2009
Thursday 04-June-2009
Cabarete............................................................. 75
Cabarete to Santo Domingo.................................... 76
Sunday 17-May-2009
Havana ...................................................................... 19
Friday 05-June-2009
Monday 18-May-2009
Havana...................................................................... 23
Saturday 06-June-2009
Tuesday 19-May-2009
Havana (Viñales) ...................................................... 29
Sunday 07-June-2009
Havana to Santiago de Chile ..................................... 91
Monday 08-June-2009
Santiagode Chile to Auckland ................................... 92
Wednesday 20-May-2009
Friday 22-May-2009
Sunday 24-May-2009
Havana to Cienfuegos (via Bay of Pigs)............... 31
Cienfuegos (Santa Clara) ........................................ 35
Cienfuegos to Trinidad ................................................. 40
Santo Domingo............................................................ 82
To Havana via Panama City .................................... 91
Tuesday 09 - Wednesday 10-June-2009
Arrive Auckland 0400 Auckland to
Melbourne
93
Trinidad.................................................................... 41
Group Members – Cuba ............................................................................................. 94
Trinidad...................................................................... 46
Web References – Santiago de Chile, Cuba and the Dominican Republic .................. 95
1
2
Itinerary
Itinerary – Chile – Cuba – Dominican Republic – May - June 2009
Trip
Day
Day
Date
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday
13-May-2009
14-May-2009
15-May-2009
16-May-2009
Sunday
17-May-2009
Monday
18-May-2009
Tuesday
19-May-2009
Wednesday
20-May-2009
Melb to Santiago 0630 Mel-Sydney QF404 0700
Sydney to Santiago QF321 0955 Arrive 1210
Ian arrives LA 1446 13:50
Santiago to Havana LA588 1535
Day 1 - Havana - Arrival Day
This evening we will have a group meeting and enjoy dinner in a local
restaurant
Day 2 – Havana
Today we are on tour in the stunning capital. We begin on foot walking
through the historic colonial centre stopping in the plaza and visiting the
fortresses. These structures were built by the Spaniards between the 16th and
19th centuries. We also stop at a cigar factory and the Museum of the
Revolution. Soak up the atmosphere of the cobbled streets and avenues of
the Old Havana. Dinner at the fabled “La Bodeguita del Medio”
Day 3 - Havana (Viñales)
We depart early for our full day trip to the lovely Viñales Valley. Heading out to
Pinar del Río in the westernmost province of Cuba this is where the best
tobacco trees are to be found. We take in the grand vista at the lookout point
of 'Los Jazmines'. We stop to view a prehistoric mural and then enjoy a Creole
lunch at a local restaurant. In the afternoon we visit the Indian’s Cave taking a
boat journey through the underground cavern
Day 4 - Havana to Cienfuegos (via Bay of Pigs)
After breakfast we head south east to Cienfuegos known as the “Pearl of the
South”. We are in for an interesting day as we visit the National Park with a
HOSTAL
AMAZONAS PLAZA
ITALIA
AV. VICUÑA
MACKENNA 47, next
to Argentina
Embassy
FONO/FAX: (56 2)
635 16 31
SANTIAGO- CHILE
1
2
3
4
Hotel Armadores de
Santander
53 (7) 8628000
5
Hotel Armadores de
Santander
53 (7) 8628000
6
Hotel Armadores de
Santander
53 (7) 8628000
7
Jagua Hotel
53 (43) 551003
8
3
Thursday
21-May-2009
Friday
22-May-2009
Saturday
23-May-2009
large swamp and diverse ecosystem. We also visit the Bay of Pigs, scene of
the failed US lead invasion with a stop at the museum. There may even be
time for a swim
Day 5 - Cienfuegos (Santa Clara)
Cienfuegos is a charming town with interesting art and colonial architecture on
show. We take trip to nearby Santa Clara which is the main city of Villa Clara
province. We are here to visit the monuments to “Mi Amigo”, Che Guevara.
We tour the sites which include the museum, mausoleum and memorial. In the
afternoon we head back to our base in Cienfuegos
Day 6 - Cienfuegos to Trinidad
A leisurely drive to the stunning city of Trinidad which was declared by
UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1988. There is a definite feeling of
walking through an outdoor museum. We stay at the beautiful 4 star Trinidad
del Mar very close to lovely Ancon Beach
Day 7 - Trinidad
We have a comprehensive tour of the city planned today. Included in our
stops are the ‘Museo Romantico’, the Sugar Mill Valley, and the Manaca
Iznaga Tower. We lunch at the ‘Canchanchara’ and enjoy a cocktail to break
up the day. The Museum of History is also worth a visit
Jagua Hotel
54 (43) 551003
9
Costa Sur Hotel
53 (41) 996174
10
Costa Sur Hotel
53 (41) 996174
11
Costa Sur Hotel
53 (41) 996174
12
Gran Hotel
53 (32) 292093
13
San Juan Hotel
53 (22) 687200
14
San Juan Hotel
53 (22) 687200
15
Day 8 - Trinidad
We have set aside the whole day for exploration. There are limitless streets
and neighborhoods to wander through as well as a multitude of historical
buildings and plaza to locate. You may choose to take the short trip to the
beaches of ‘Playa Ancon’ for a more leisurely day of swimming, snorkeling or
sailing
Sunday
24-May-2009
Day 9 - Trinidad to Camagüey
We have a travel day today heading to Camagüey city, which is a provincial
capital. We have time in the late afternoon to explore the narrow winding
streets and the picturesque churches. We will find a local restaurant and enjoy
dinner in the old town
Monday
25-May-2009
Day 10 - Camagüey to Santiago de Cuba
We move on to Santiago de Cuba the second most important city in Cuba.
Exuding both music and history, it is considered the capital of the eastern part
of the island and birthplace of ‘son’ music and of the Cuban Revolution. En
route we take lunch in a local restaurant in Bayamo City, capital of Granma
province. This town was the second Spanish settlement in Cuba, which Diego
Velázquez founded in 1513
Tuesday
Wednesday
4
26-May-2009
27-May-2009
Day 11 - Santiago de Cuba
Our tour of Santiago includes a visit to Cespedes Park and the Moncadas
Garrison. There is so much to see in this vibrant city. In the evening we will
seek out some local clubs to enjoy the musical flavours of the traditional
Cuban sound. Bring your dancing shoes or just sit back and enjoy a 'Cuba
Libre'. Try stopping those toes tapping!
Day 12 - Santiago de Cuba to Guardalavaca
We journey north to coastal town of Guardalavaca stopping at Playa Blanca
en route. Legend has it that this is the first place that Christopher Columbus
landed when he arrived in the “New World”. There are a variety of sites to
commemorate this event for us to enjoy. We arrive in Guardalavaca late in the
afternoon
Thursday
28-May-2009
Day 13 - Guardalavaca
A day to savour. You have earned a days relaxation to rejuvenate. You can
spend it in the sun with a good book or be as active as you like in this lovely
north coast beach resort. If you are feeling adventurous there is an opportunity
to explore many of the smaller beach side villages
Friday
29-May-2009
Day 14 - Guardalavaca to Havana
We transfer to Holguin Airport and take the short flight (included) to Havana.
We are back in time to ready ourselves for a Cuban 'grand finale'. A night
savouring the in depth journey we have enjoyed together
Saturday
Sunday
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
04-June-2009
05-June-2009
Saturday
06-June-2009
Sunday
07-June-2009
53 (24) 430444
16
Club Amigo
Guardalavaca
53 (24) 430444
17
53 (7) 8628000
18
Day 15 - Havana - Departure day
To Santo Domingo DR Copa Airlines CM295 07:20 to Panama City
Panama City to Santo Domingo CM308 0959 Arrive 13:29
Bus to Puerto Plata
Hotel Armadores de
Santander
Ken & Elaine Brown
#33 Vista de Oro
Cabarete
Dominican Republic
Phone: 809 571
9742
Ken 829 451 9666,
Elaine 829 451 9669
Early morning bus to Santo Domingo
Mercure Comercial
Sto Domingo
El Conde Esquina
Hostos
Santo Domingo,
Dominican Republic
Phone: (+1)809/6885500
30-May-2009
31-May-2009
01-June-2009
02-June-2009
03-June-2009
Club Amigo
Guardalavaca
To Havana via Panama City. Havana to Panama City CM271 09:10
Panama City to Havana CM246 12:18
Havana to Santiago 0255 LA587
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
HOSTAL
AMAZONAS PLAZA
ITALIA
26
5
AV. VICUÑA
MACKENNA 47, next
to Argentina
Embassy
FONO/FAX: (56 2)
635 16 31
SANTIAGO- CHILE
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
6
08-June-2009
09-June-2009
10-June-2009
11-June-2009
Santiago to Auckland 2250 QF322
Arrive Auckland 0400 Auckland to Melbourne QF132 0630 Arrive 0835
26
26
26
26
Maps
Caribbean Flights
7
Cuba and the Dominican Republic
8
Santiago de Chile, Cuba and the Dominican Republic
Wednesday 13-May-2009 Melbourne to Santiago de Chile
The flight Melbourne –
Auckland –
Sydney
–
Day 01
Feeling rather bloated we walked back to the Hostas and bed.
important residents. The first settlers formed a cabildo or town
Santiago was long and
uneventful. Arriving in Santiago around
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santiago,_Chile
council for administrative purposes. The Santiago council
became the administrative center of all of Chile, while Spanish
midday, almost 24 hours after leaving
home, I had about 90minutes to wait for
chapel, some warehouses, and the dwellings of the most
History
forces continued their conquest southward. The Council was
freed from its executive and military power when the Spanish
Ian Marsh to arrive via Buenos Aires
before we caught the shuttle to the Hostas
Santiago was founded by Spanish Conquistador Pedro de
King named a new governor for Chile. Because the governor
Amazonia near the centre of Santiago.
Valdivia on February 12, 1541 with the name Santiago del
had its residence in Santiago, the city became the capital of the
Nuevo Extremo, as a homage to Saint James and Extremadura,
Kingdom of Chile.[5]
We were both pretty tired nevertheless we
Valdivia's birth place in Spain. The founding ceremony was held
went for a short walk along Avenida
on Huelén Hill (later renamed Cerro Santa Lucía). Valdivia
The first few years of settling were harsh and proved to be a
Alameda Libertador Bernardo O'Higgins
chose the location of Santiago because of its climate, abundant
great endeavor. Mineral wealth was rare, the near surroundings
past the impressive Biblioteca Nacional de
vegetation and the ease with which it could be defended—the
did not provide with sufficient foods and the indigenous
Chile to the river and back.
Mapocho River then split into two branches and rejoined further
inhabitants fiercely refused to be subjugated by the invaders.
downstream, forming an island.[4]
On September 11, 1541 the city was completely destroyed by
native forces under the chief Michimalonco, endangering the
Dining is late here so we had a couple of
hours rest before heading across the river
The first buildings were erected with the help of the native
whole process of colonization. During the 1550s Santiago was
to the restaurant area of Bella Vista for a
Picunche. The south bank of the Mapocho River was later
able to consolidate its position thanks to the construction of the
meal.
drained and converted into a public promenade, known as the
Port of Valparaíso, which allowed for speedier reinforcements
mushrooms and chips each and a bottle of
Alameda
Bernardo
and provisions from Peru. it also became more peaceful as the
beer between us. The chicken was huge
O'Higgins). The city was built following the traditional Hispanic
conflict with the Indians moved south, which gave the
and so was the serving of chips.
grid pattern used in American colonies, made up of 126 square
inhabitants more time and resources to invest in the city. The
blocks of 138 varas in length separated by 12 varas wide lanes.
Spanish King acknowledged this progress and conferred
We
ordered
a
half
chicken,
(now
Avenida
Alameda
Libertador
A main square was located at the city's center, along with a
9
Santiago the title of city along with a coat
building used as the colonial mint, and a few churches and
1552.[5]
other civic buildings. The Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús
of arms in April 5,
caught fire during an 1863 church service, and 2000 people
With the Disaster of Curalaba in 1599,
died, one of the worst modern
fires.[6]
several settlers from the south of Chile
Geography
The city lies in the center of the Santiago Basin, a large bowlshaped valley consisting of a broad and fertile plain surrounded
by mountains. It is flanked by the main chain of the Andes on
took refuge in Santiago, and the city's
In the 1880s extraction of nitrate fertilizer in Northern Chile
the east and the Chilean Coastal Range on the west. On the
population grew exponentially. The city
brought prosperity to the country, and promoted the capital
north, it is bound by the Cordón de Chacabuco, a transverse
was severely damaged by earthquakes in
city's development. Important landmarks were built in 1910
mountain range of the Andes, whereas at the southern border
1647 and 1730.[4] The first of these is the
during the Centennial celebrations of independence from Spain,
lies Angostura de Paine, where an elongated spur of the Andes
Das
such as the National Library, the Museum of Fine Arts and the
almost reaches the Coastal Range. Santiago Basin is part of
Erdbeben in Chili (The Earthquake in
Mapocho Train Station (Estación Mapocho, now an events
the Intermediate Depression and is remarkably flat, interrupted
Chile) by the 19th Century German writer
center).
only by a few hills. Among those are Cerro Renca, Cerro Blanco
subject
of
the
famous
novella
Heinrich von Kleist.
and Cerro Santa Lucía.
Santiago began its transformation into a modern city in the
During the War of Independence (1810–
1930s, with the building of the Barrio Cívico, surrounding
The Andes mountains around Santiago are quite tall,
18), in the Battle of Maipú, which was
Palacio de La Moneda. The city also grew in population, due to
culminating in Tupungato volcano at 6,570 m (21,555 ft). Other
fought south-west of the city, there was
migration from the north and south of Chile. In 1985 an
volcanoes include Tupungatito, San José and Maipo. Cerro El
only slight damage. Santiago was named
earthquake destroyed some historically significant buildings in
Plomo is the highest mountain visible from Santiago's urban
capital of the republic in 1818.
the downtown area.
area.
During the early 19th century, Santiago
Nowadays, Santiago is among the largest and most important
remained a small town with few buildings
financial centers in Latin America.[7]
excepting Palacio de La Moneda, the
Santiago de Chile
Day 02
After a good night’ s sleep we are ready
We commence walking along the Avenida Alameda Libertador
At the Plaza of Culture there was a memorial ceremony going
for a day of walking around the city centre.
Bernardo O'Higgins about two kilometres to Citizenry Square
on complete with brass band, small cannon and dignitaries in
and the former Bulnes Square, now called the Plaza La Culture.
military uniform. The honour guard and band were all dressed in
a rather a Prussian uniform and were probably from the Palacio
10
de La Moneda guard. The monument is a
of Chile. It also houses the offices of three cabinet ministers:
military memorial commemorating those
Interior, General Secretariat of the Presidency and General
who died in military campaigns. The
Secretariat of the Government. It occupies an entire block in
ceremony was probably to commemorate
downtown Santiago, in the area known as Civic District.
some dignitary. I have no idea who it was.
Burnt out Pinochet era Edificio Diego Portales - Santiago
de Chile
National Library - Santiago de Chile
History
La Moneda, originally a colonial mint (moneda means coin),
was designed by Italian architect Joaquín Toesca. Construction
began in 1784 and was opened in 1805, while still under
Monumento a Carabineros de Chile en
Alameda - Avenida Alameda
Libertador Bernardo O'Higgins –
Santiago de Chile
The Government palace
La Moneda
across the road is a most imposing
building with an interesting history. The
park was being closed off as we arrived.
construction. The production of coins in Chile took place at La
Moneda from 1814 to 1929.
Entrance to Santa Lucia Hill - Santiago de Chile
Palacio de La Moneda
In June, 1845 during president Manuel Bulnes's administration,
the palace became the seat of government and presidential
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Moneda
residence. In 1930, a public square —named Plaza de la
Palacio de La Moneda (Spanish: Palace of the Mint (Coin)), or
Constitución ("Constitution Square") — was built in front of the
simply La Moneda, is the seat of the President of the Republic
11
palace. After the presidency of Gabriel
although some bullet marks have been preserved and can still
González Videla it ceased to serve as a
be seen nowadays.] An underground office complex (the so
presidential residence.
called "bunker") was built under the front square, during the
1973-1980 restorations to provide a safe escape for Pinochet in
case of an attack.
Catedral de Santiago - Plaza de Armas - Santiago de
Chile
Ceremony - Plaza of Culture - Santiago de Chile
‘Times Square’ Paseo Ahumada Santiago de Chile
During
the
military
coup
d'etat,
on
September 11, 1973, the palace was
Courtyard - Museo de Arte Precolombino - Santiago de
Chile
partially destroyed by aerial bombing.
President Salvador Allende allegedly killed
During President Ricardo Lagos's administration, the palace's
himself in the palace as it was under
assault
by
the
armed
inner courtyards were opened to the public during certain hours
forces.
of the day. Lagos also re-opened Morandé 80 — a gate used by
Reconstruction and restoration projects
were completed on March 11, 1981,
12
Palacio de La Moneda - Santiago de Chile
Chilean presidents to enter the palace since the early 20th
century. It was eliminated during the
In April 2006, a new square named Plaza de la Ciudadanía
restoration of the palace as not being in
("Citizenry Square") was opened behind its southern façade,
the original plans, but was restored
replacing a parking lot. The square was originally planned to
because of the heavy symbolism attached
unite the palace with Bulnes square, forcing the Alameda
to it as being the gate through which
avenue in between to go underground, but such plans were
Chilean Presidents entered La Moneda
scrapped. Because the square is presently cut in two by the
skipping the main's gate guard protocol or,
avenue, the southern part was named Plaza de La Cultura
in other words, as ordinary citizens of the
("Square of Culture").
Republic. It was also the gate through
which the body of President Allende was
taken out after the 1973 coup.
Central Market - Santiago de Chile
We continued our walk along the main shopping mall to the
Plaza de Armas, the main square of Santiago. The Basilica is a
massive, rather somber cathedral except for the altar which is
This building now houses the Museo de Arte Precolombino.
Nearby is the Palacio Viejo de los Tribunales or Antiguo Palacio
The Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino is reputed to be
de la Aduana
Catedral de Santiago - Plaza de
Armas - Santiago de Chile
rather spectacular as are some of the side chapels.
Santiago 's finest museum, with a beautifully presented
collection of pre-Hispanic art drawn from the whole South
American
continent.
Highlights
include
elaborate
Meso-
13
American
incense
burners,
Andean
in this curious structure, which looks like something out of a
textiles dating back as far as 3,000 years,
Victorian English railway station.
and Maya carvings. The museum currently
has
a
temporary
Columbian
exhibition
maritime
of
activities
pre
with
excellent displays of the maritime and
fishing activities of the coastal inhabitants,
mainly of the Atacama Desert region of
Chile.
The Central Market is in Calle Ismael Valdes Vergara, 900,
Santiago.
Santiago de Chile
http://www.allsantiago.com/centro/stodom.html
Although this has long been dethroned as the capital's principal
wholesale market, most visitors in search of a lively ambience,
excellent food and vociferous fruiterers and fishmongers find
themselves satisfied in this intricately ornate marketplace. Its
origins can be traced back to the Mercado de Abastos which
used to operate at the Plaza de Armas until 1817. That year,
Bernardo O’ Higgins, the then ruler of Chile, ordered the
transfer of the market to a purposely built structure at the
present-day site. The works for the current building started in
Catedral de Santiago - Plaza de
Armas - Santiago de Chile
Mercado Central
Iglesia Recoleta Franciscana - Santiago de Chile
It is famous for its fresh fish and seafood, but the small crowds
which throng the market from Sunday to Thursday also come
here for a wide variety of fresh products which they hope to find
14
1864, including a roof structure manufactured in England in
1872.
A recent drive to exploit the Market's tourist potential has
On a clear day the views should be across all of Santiago but
resulted in a partial loss of its original use. Nowadays, you’ ll
today the smog/fog obscures most of the city with visibility
find several restaurants in the Market's main hall, most of which
limited to about 2km.
offer exactly what visitors want: simple and authentic Chilean
dishes with an emphasis on freshness. The stalls themselves
On our return to the hostal we are told of a concert at the
continue to offer an unrivalled –
University Radio station tomorrow night and that there are a few
if slightly overpriced –
selection of fruit, vegetables and fish, making this a true
tickets left. A quick trip on the Metro takes us to the radio station
‘ foodie’
where we find the tickets are all sold so we walk the 2-3 km
heaven.
back to the hostal for a siesta before we walk across the river to
Funicular del Cerro San Cristobal
Bella Vista and nice little café where we have a small pizza for
dinner. After the enormous lunch we had at the Central Market
The funicular goes up the side of the Cerro San Cristobal in
that was all we could manage.
Providencia. The official inauguration of the Funicular del Cerro
San Cristobal took place on September 25, 1924. It owes its
creation to the initiative of Intendente Alberto Mackenna.
San Cristobal in Providencia Santiago de Chile
Friday 15-May-2009
Santiago de Chile
Day 03
Today we have booked a day trip into the Andes
After a short trip downtown to pick up the other three
We have fleeting views of the Aconcaqua Mountain, the
Mountains with Chile Experience. Pick up is at 0845 and
passengers we are on out way out of town. As promised
highest mountain outside the Himalayas at 6,962m.
right on time the driver arrives. He assures us that the
the fog clears as we climb out of the valley.
Initially the river muddy with contamination from a
fog is only in the valley and up in the mountains it will be
clear.
copper mine deep inside the mountain, but once we
We are heading towards the town of Los Andes and the
pass the entrance to the mine the river becomes crystal.
Los Liberadores frontier pass between Chile and
Argentina. Our route follows the Aconcaqua River valley.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aconcagua
15
As we climbed we have also been close to the remains
of the Transandine Railway. The only section still in use
The Transandine Railway (in Spanish: Ferrocarril
is from the copper mine to Valparaiso. There are plans
Trasandino) was a 1,000 mm (3 ft 3⅜ in) metre gauge
to restore the railway ‘ sometime’ . The very steep
combined rack (Abt system ) and adhesion railway which
grades require the use of a rack to maintain traction.
operated between Mendoza in Argentina across the
Andes mountain range via the Uspallata Pass to Santa
Rosa de Los Andes in Chile, a distance of 248 km. The
railway has been out of service since 1984, and has
been partly dismantled. It is now being reconstructed.
Due to the lack of concrete actions to restore this link,
Mount Aconcaqua
the most recent estimations are that the line could be
restored around October, 2009. However, as of October
2007, there is no indication of any restorative work
underway.[1][2]
Road to Liberatore Pass
Road to Liberatore Pass
Continuing up the valley we climb steadily until we reach
the final ascent via a winding road with 30 bends that
takes us to over 3000m and the Los Liberatore Pass.
We make one stop on the way up to take pictures and at
the top we stop to take pictures. Views are breathtaking;
snow capped mountains all around. The road is very
busy with trucks travelling between Chile and Argentina.
Chile – Argentina Border - Liberatore Pass
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transandine_Railway
16
Section of Rack – Transandine Railway Liberatore Pass http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rack_railway#Abt
similar to Lake Louise in British Columbia except that we
are above the tree line and the scenery is much starker.
Lunch is at a truckles’
stop. Excellent steak and salad,
but rather large, so small dinner tonight.
Our final stop is at the Viña San Esteban Winery for a
tour and tasting. Grapes are grown organically and the
nearby
Aconcaque
river
creates
a
more
humid
microclimate in the otherwise very dry climate.
Lake (Laguna Inca) - Portillo Ski Resort
Viña San Esteban Winery
www.vse.cl
Viña San Esteban is located in central Chile, near the
city of Los Andes, at the mountainous, eastern edge of
the Aconcagua Valley.
Our vineyards are beautifully situated along the
Aconcagua River and over the foothills of the Andes
Mountains, where sunny days and night breezes create
the temperature variability needed to reach optimal
Portillo Ski Resort
ripeness of color and structure of the grapes. San
Just below the pass is the Portillo Ski Resort.
Esteban's distinct geography and climate deliver a one-
Established over 100 years ago it is the oldest ski resort
in South America. The ski season is due to open in
June. There will need to be some good dumps of snow
before then.
The resort overlooks the Laguna Inca and today it is like
a mirror, reflecting the surrounding mountains. It is
Wine Barrels - Viña San Esteban Winery
of-a-kind character to its grapes, which together with the
The riverbanks of the Aconcagua River present soil of
delicate work in the winery, bring forth an excellent wine,
fluvial origin, consisting of fragments of drift stones from
marked by its origin.
the Andes Mountains. The sandy texture of the soil
restricts water retention, avoiding excessive vigor and
A pioneer in hillside-vineyard planting, our Paidahuen
favoring the concentration of aromas and tannins in the
estate offers the rocky soil and unique solar exposure
grapes.
necessary to obtain grapes rich in structure and
character.
17
The total planted surface area is 120 hectares, including
With a 2.5 million liter capacity, the winery houses ample
Our reserve wines are aged in French and American oak
the following grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon,
and ventilated cellars where we are able to combine
barrels from some of the world's most prestigious
Merlot, Carmenère, Syrah, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc,
modern technology with traditional procedures in wine
cooperages.
Mourvedre, Petit Verdot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc
production.
and Viognier.
The latest systems of pressing and refrigeration allow for
As we head back into town we encounter dense Friday
gentle juice extraction and strict temperature control
night traffic and it is 1900 before we are dropped off. It is
during the fermentation and stabilization of the wine.
just as well we did not get tickets for the concert.
Viña San Esteban continues to change and improve as
the demand for quality wines increases in world markets.
Santiago to Havana
Day 04
As we have to leave the hotel for the airport at midday there is little point in going out
The flight is scheduled for 1535 but it is delayed an hour so we now expect to arrive
so the morning is spent catching up with the diary notes for the last few days.
in Havana at about 0130 tomorrow including a 45minute stop in Guayaquil in
Ecuador not far from Quito.
18
Cuba
Sunday 17-May-2009
Havana
Day 05
http://www.hotelarmadoresdesantander.info/
Fuente de los Leones (Lions Fountain) - Plaza de San
Francisco – Havana
Avenida san Pedro - Havana
The Hotel Armadores de Santander (Shipowners of Santandar)
on Havana’ s Avenida del Puerto was built by shipowners in
Old Havana
It is almost 0300 when we arrive at the
Hotel Armadores de Santander on the
waterfront in old Havana. Ian and I are
finally in bed about 0330 –
exhausted
and it is 1030 when we are finally awoken
by a phone call from Mike who arrived
from Toronto yesterday.
the 19th C and restored as a one of the historic building in Old
Havana in 1998-2002.
The three of us meet for coffee on the verandah and chat while
we wait for Stewart to arrive at around 1300. He duly arrives
and we set out through the Plaza de San Francisco to find a
place to change money and a restaurant to have lunch.
Park – Old Havana
19
http://www.oldhavanaweb.com/squares/plaza_de_san_fr
For many years it also served to stockpile the goods
auspices of the Villanueva Count. This fountain is called
ancisco_san_francisco_square.html
arriving from the harbor. Chronicles of the time say that
Fuente de los Leones (Lions Fountain). At that time it
the square had a busy commercial life. The people, in
was protected by an iron fence, as seen in some
humble carts or afoot, sold and bought a variety of
pictures of 1835. Later on, because it was feared that it
goods. It’ s important to know that through this place
could be damaged, it was relocated to the Paseo de
the Spanish immigrants arrived to Cuba.
Isabel II, nowadays Paseo de José Martí (or Paseo del
Prado, as it was also called). Finally, the fountain was
returned to its original location where it still remains
The Convent is now a Museum and Concert Hall.
http://www.oldhavanaweb.com/churches_and_convents/
convento_de_san_francisco_de_asis.html
Ian knows a place in the Plaza de Cathedral and we
have a long lunch there, watching the passing Sunday
Convento de san Francisco de Asis - Plaza de San
Francisco – Havana
crowd, mainly tourists, and listening to the band playing
at the restaurant.
Plaza de la Catedral – Old Havana
Among the houses built around the plaza, as was
already usual, the house of the Arostegui family,
residence of the Captain Generals until the completion of
the City Hall at the end of the 18th century, was erected.
During a long period of the Spanish dominion, the San
Cathedral – Old Havana
Francisco Fairs took place at the square, beginning on
October 3. It is said that around the year 1600 the first
Called San Francisco because of the convent next to it,
fountain of the city could be seen at the plaza. In 1836 it
this square was conceived in 1628, with the objective of
was replaced by a beautiful fountain made of white
supplying water to the ships trading with the metropolis.
Carrara marble by Giuseppe Gaggini, under the good
20
http://www.oldhavanaweb.com/squares/plaza_de_la_cat
edral_cathedral_square.html
The area where the Plaza de la Catedral is located used
to be, according to 17th century records, a marshland
renewed each year during the rainy season. At the place
where the plaza was created, and due to its surface’ s
properties, the waters became stagnant, so that the
place was known at the beginning as Plaza de la
Ciénaga (Swamp Square). Nevertheless, around the
middle of 16th century, the first requests by the
neighbors to buy nearby lots were made, because during
the dry season the stagnant waters disappeared and the
find the crossing of San Ignacio Street and Callejón del
for sale or to build on. Until the beginning of the 18th
living conditions improved.
Chorro.
century the square was used for the restocking of the
metropolis navy and commercial fleet’ s water supplies.
In order to overcome the difficulties that the rainy season
In 1592 the engineer Juan Bautista Antonelli finished his
meant for communications with the city proper, in the
work on the Zanja Real, the first aqueduct built by the
In 1727 the work on the church that would give this plaza
year of 1577 the authorities projected the construction of
Spanish in America. One of its branches reached to the
a greater importance began. Eventually it came to be
a wooden bridge. Ten year later, Governor Gabriel Luján
Callejón del Chorro, next to the Plaza de la Catedral.
known as Plaza de la Catedral (Cathedral Square).
wrote to the king due to the widespread drought
suggesting the creation of a pond to take advantage of
In spite of the distribution of the lots at the swamp, and
some springs streaming out of the spot where today we
as a request from the crown, the Plaza was not intended
Street Entertainer – Plaza de la
Catedral – Old Havana
Banco Nationale de Cuba – Old Havana
Capitolio - Havana
Russian Orthodox Cathedral – Old
Havana
21
windows, grilles and huge gates with thick pillars are
peculiar uneven towers made by the architect Pedro
usual elements in these houses.
Medina.
http://www.oldhavanaweb.com/churches_and_convents/i
Afterwards, during the bishopric of Espada, who was an
glesia_de_la_catedral_cathedral_church.html
enlightened man, lots of alterations were made to the
building. The bishop dispensed with the shrines and
The Iglesia de la Catedral (Cathedral Church) is the
saints statues that he considered lacked taste and
result of a turbulent long historical process that started
changed the old baroque shrines for new neoclassic
on the first half of the 17th century. As early as 1658 the
ones. Espada sent for the Italian painter Giusseppe
license to build a college and its church was requested
Perovani who worked on two of the frescos still
Cigar Smoking old Lady - Plaza de la Catedral –
Old Havana
from the king, because the inhabitants of Havana were
remaining. When the painter passed away he was
in need of a higher education institution, since they
replaced in 1815 by the great French painter Jean B.
This is one of the most valuable historical sites in the
couldn’ t always go to Mexico or Spain. After some
Vermay.
city, especially for its majestic early 18th century houses.
disagreements among the town council, the Society of
A good example of this kind of architecture is the house
Jesus – that would be in charge of running the
In 1796 the remains of the Admiral Cristóbal Colón were
of the Captain General Luis Chacón, facing the
institution– and the king himself, the last, in April, 1727
moved to the cathedral church from the island of Santo
Cathedral. To the west we find the house the former
ordered the Society’ s headquarters to be built on the
Domingo where they rested as the Genovese sailor had
alderman Francisco F. Ponce de León, Third Marquis of
well known spot of San Ignacio.
wished. This was their resting place until December 12,
Aguas Claras built; later on acquired by the counts of
1898, when as the Spanish domination over Cuba ended
San Fernando de Peñalver. In front of the house of the
In 1749 the Jesuits began to enlarge the temple and had
Marquis of Aguas Claras there are two adjoining houses,
almost finished the church when they were thrown off
one belonging to the Count of Lombillo (corner of
the Spanish possessions, so that the works were left
Finally we decide it is time to explore, find a restaurant
Empedrado Street) and the other to the Marquis of
unfinished. In 1777 the church was roofed and the
for dinner, and return to the hotel.
Arcos, Royal Treasurer whose name was Diego
Parroquial Mayor seat moved there due to the ruinous
Peñalver Angulo and who earned the title because of its
state in which its former seat at the Plaza de Armas was.
There are few modern buildings in old Havana. Many of
services during the English siege and occupation. In
In 1793 after the island was divided in dioceses, the
the old buildings are in need of major restoration.
1825 the Post Office moved into this house.
church was made into a cathedral and the first bishop of
However many significant buildings have been restored.
they were taken to Spain.
Havana, José Felipe Tres Palacios, endowed the church
All these domestic buildings have been preserved
with riches according to its new station. We owe this
Old Havana is a World Heritage Site and restoration is
thanks to the mastery of its builders and the quality of
bishop the church’ s façade we see today, with its
being undertaken to a plan to restore first those buildings
the construction materials employed. Wide doors and
22
most likely to attract visitors and therefore revenue. This
policy has been successful and profits are ploughed
back into further restorations.
Plaza de San Francisco - Havana
Port - Havana
After a short siesta we meet again at 1900 for the usual
La Plaza Vieja – Old Havana
pre trip formalities and a drink before heading to the
restaurant at the El Meson de la Flota, where besides
good food there is an excellent flamenco floor show.
Monday 18-May-2009
Havana
John Lennon – Parque John Lennon – Vedado
Day 06
Ti Chi Group - Parque John Lennon – Vedado
Stately House - Parque John Lennon – Vedado
23
There is also an abstract sculpture by Yoko Ono’ s sister.
Elderly people are exercising in the park. The park is
surrounded by elegant buildings, some restored, and some in
need of substantial repair.
Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana – Havana
Cannon Balls - Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana –
Havana
Sculpture by Yoko Ono - Parque John
Lennon – Vedado
Today we have a tour of central Havana.
We are picked up by our guide, Carlos,
and our driver, Thomas, at 0900. However
after yesterday’ s enjoyable, but rather
more money, so our first stop is at bank
Cigar Maker - Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana –
Havana
where we have to queue outside while one
Eventually cashed up we make our way through town to the
person at a time is allowed inside to
Verdado district in ‘ new’
transact their business.
The park was where forbidden western music was played
extravagant eating we all need to change
Havana and the Parque Lennon.
during the days when Cuba was influenced by Russia. A statue
of John Lennon sitting on park bench is a feature of the park.
24
Entrance - Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana –
Havana
This hyperrealistic bronze statue is of ex-Beatle John Lennon,
and was unveiled by Fidel Castro in December 2000 on the
20th anniversary of the singer's death. Culturally speaking, it
was one of the Cuban leader's more remarkable policy U-turns,
as the Beatles' music had been banned in Cuba in the 1960s
for being too 'decadent.'
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/cuba/havana/sights/370327
But following Lennon's strong social activism and opposition to
US involvement in the Vietnam War, he quickly became a hero
among Cuban music fans, causing Castro to quickly rebrand
him as a 'revolutionary.' The 21st-century reincarnation of
Castillo de los Tres Santos Reyes Magnos del Morro –
Havana
Lennon in bronze has suffered the ignominy of having his
glasses stolen on a number of occasions and a guard has now
been employed to keep a regular watch.
Jose Marti Memorial - Plaza de la
Revolution – Havana
Havana from Castillo de los Tres Santos Reyes
Magnos del Morro
Moat - Castillo de los Tres Santos Reyes Magnos
del Morro – Havana
Bullet holes from Batista assassination attempt Museum of the Revolution – Havana
25
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plaza_de_la_Revoluci%C3%
B3n
Museum of the Revolution – Havana
Museum of the Revolution – Havana
‘Granma’ - Museum of the Revolution – Havana
Batista Assassins Truck - Museum of the
Revolution – Havana
Our next stop is the Plaza de la Revolution. Predating
the revolution it was once called the Plaza de la
Republica and is famous for the huge political rallies in
the 1960’ s. Fidel Castro and the Pope have addressed
crowds of up to 1.2 million people here. The statue and
142m tower is a memorial to Jose Marti, a hero of the
second war of independence against the Spanish.
26
Three Cretins – George W Bush, Ronald Reagan,
Fugencio Batista - Museum of the Revolution –
Havana
Havana’ s harbour is entered by a narrow easily
defended channel. To defend the port against pirates the
Castillo de los Tres Santos Reyes Magnos del Morro
was erected between 1589 and 1630 and cannon were
placed on both sides of the entrance. Further a chain
was laid across the entrance at night.
Hotel Inglaterra, José Marti Memorial – Central
Park – Havana
However in1762 the English landed and attacked the fort
from the land and captured it and Havana. The English
did not stay long and in 1763 the Spanish commenced
building one of the largest colonial forts, Fortaleza de
San Carlos de la Cabana, to deny invaders access to
the ridge used by the English.
military equipment used by the revolutionaries including the
bullet ridden van that carried the students who attempted to
shoot their way into the Presidential Palace and assassinate
dictator Fulgencio Batista on March 13, 1957.
Cockroaches- Museo Nacional e Belas
Artes – Havana
Great Theater of Havana
Former Bacardi Rum Offices – Havana
The Museum of the Revolution is housed
in the former Presidential Palace and
features a display of photographs with
Spanish and English explanations tracing
the Cuban revolutions from the Wars of
Independence from Spain in the 19th C to
the
Revolution
against
the
Batista
government and the victory by the forces
lead by Fidel Castro. Outside the palace is
a pavilion housing ‘ Granma’
the motor
yacht that brought Fidel Castro to Cuba
from Mexico in 1956. It is surrounded by
Capitolio – Havana
1950’s American Cars outside Capitolio – Havana
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morro_Castle_(fortress)
27
http://www.cuba-museums-
Capitol in Washington it is more ornately decorated and
Next door the afternoon sun glistens on the golden domes of
guide.com/cuba_museums/museum_revol
features 17m bronze statue of The Republic and immediately
the Russian Orthodox Cathedral. Raul Castro was present at
ution.htm
below the centre of the dome a replica of a 24 carat diamond
the opening in 2008.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Museum_of_th
marks the point from which distances from Havana are
e_Revolution
measured.
http://www.eni.ch/featured/article.php?id=2389
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Granma_(yacht
)
http://www.hotelinglaterracuba.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Capitolio
Lunchtime Music – el Meson de la Flota - Old Havana
View from the Steps of the Capitolio – Havana
It is approaching 1330 and we turn towards the cobbled streets
of Old Havana, looking for a place for a sandwich and a drink.
We find one with an excellent band playing, el Meson de la
La Republica – Capitolio – Havana
We continue our tour on foot, making our
way the to Central Park, past the neoclassical Hotel Inglaterra, built in 1875,
and
the
ornate
Great
Theater
of
Havana to the National Capitol building
(el Capitolio). Built as a copy on the
28
Flota. The sandwich seems to take forever to make but the
music is great and it is approaching 1500 before we make our
way out into the sun. It is too hot to continue tramping the street
so we head for the hotel for a siesta and an opportunity to write
up the days notes before we go out for dinner.
Russian Orthodox Cathedral – View from Hotel Window –
Old Havana
We ate early tonight at the La Bodeguita
Ernest Hemingway as tomorrow we have an early start for an
del Medio, famous for its association with
excursion into the countryside to the West of Havana.
Tuesday 19-May-2009
Havana (Viñales)
Day 07
http://www.cubajunky.com/pinar-del-rio/vinales-
Although this part of the tour was a little disappointing as
home.htm
it did not provide a view of how the rather large
industries are organized.
We depart early, 0730, for our full day trip to the Viñales
Valley. With more hotel pickups it is almost 0830 before
Limestone mountains surround the valley and the
we are heading out of town along the highway through
scenery is very similar to karst formations in Asia and
sugar cane and banana fields towards Pinar del Rio in
Europe.
the western most province of Cuba where the best
tobacco is grown.
Our first stop is a rum factory in Vinales. Our visit
Rum Bottling Plant – Viñales
consists of a tasting and inspection of the almost cottage
industry factory. Most of the time in the factory was
devoted to explaining why a small pickled guava is
added to the rum. It does modify the taste, probably for
the better.
We continue our tour with a visit to a tobacco farm and a
Siérra del Rosario – Cuba
demonstration of cigar rolling and some explanation of
Lunch is at the site of a huge, rather bizarre mural
the different types of cigars. Selected tobacco leaves are
painted on the cliff face. The mural was created by
used for the centre and these are wrapped in leaves with
Leovigildo Gonzales, a Mexican Painter. in 1959 and
more elasticity that is grown in greenhouses.
portrays the prehistory of the region. Personally I don’ t
think it enhances the scenery but it is clearly a tourist
Rum Barrels – Viñales
attraction.
29
Tobacco Farm – Viñales
Tobacco Drying Shed – Viñales
Mural de la Prehistoria by Leovigildo Gonzales –
Viñales
During the afternoon we visit the Cueva
del Indio, which might once have been a
colourful limestone cave but now is rather
colourless
probably
due
to
tourists
touching the formation and fumes from the
outboard motors powering the boats on
the subterranean river flowing through the
cave. Not the most spectacular caves I
have seen.
Finally, before heading back to Havana
we climb, in the bus, to the lookout point
'Los Jazmines', from where we have
sweeping views of the Viñales valley.
The return trip is a chance for a siesta and
we are back at the hotel at about 19:00.
30
Karst Formations – Viñales
Cueva del Indio – Viñales
Exit from Cueva del Indio – Viñales
Horseman - Mural de la Prehistoria – Viñales
Hotel - 'Los Jazmines' – Viñales
View from 'Los Jazmines' – Viñales
At around 2000 we head to the Plaza de Armas and the
Despite the negative comments about some of the
Café La Mina for a ‘ light’
places visited it was an enjoyable day in the countryside.
dinner, an almost
impossible concept in Cuba.
Wednesday 20-May-2009 Havana to Cienfuegos (via Bay of Pigs)
Day 08
We start our journey eastward on the
Autopista
Nacional
eventually
turning
south past the Central Australia sugar mill,
the site of Fidel Castro’ s command post
during the abortive Bay of Pigs invasion
sponsored by the CIA in 1961.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bay_of_Pigs_In
vasion
Fiesta Campesina
Guinea Pig Roulette - Fiesta Campesina
31
http://www.roughguides.com/website/travel/destination/content/
default.aspx?titleid=150&xid=idh352121424_0310
Cueva de los Peces (Cave of Fishes) - Playa Larga
The Peninsular de Zapata is located in the Gran Parque Natural
Bay of Pigs - Cueva de los Peces (Cave of Fishes) – Playa
Larga
Fiesta Campesina, a Cuban wildlife park
Approaching Playa Larga (Long Beach), scene of some of the
serving excellent coffee in the café. At the
fighting, we pass memorials to the Cuban Militia who died
entrance is Cuba’ s only legal roulette.
defending the country. These memorials are well compared for
For 1 Peso you can choose the house a
compared with the comparative neglect of memorials to fallen
guinea pig will go to after it is spun and
North Vietnamese soldiers in Vietnam
then released from a box in the centre of
the ring of houses. If you win you receive
http://www.cuban-beaches.com/matanzas/playa_larga
a bottle of rum. The odds are about 15:1
32
the large population of pigs made it a source of meat for ship
known as the Bay of Pigs.
Shortly afterwards we stop for coffee at
good for the operator!
people in the area relied on charcoal burning for a living. Later
sailing back to Europe and perhaps this is why the bay became
Coconut Palm - Fiesta Campesina
and a bottle of rum costs 3-4 Peso. Pretty
Montemar is relatively uninhabited and largely swamp. Formerly
Cueva de los Peces (Cave of Fishes) – Playa Larga
http://www.roughguides.com/website/travel/Destination/content/
default.aspx?titleid=150&xid=idh252105048_0306
Lizard - Cueva de los Peces (Cave of Fishes) Playa Larga
Mike, Ian, Stewart - Cueva de los Peces (Cave of
Fishes) - Playa Larga
Museo de Playa Girón
We stop for lunch at Cueva de los Peces (Cave of
Fishes), a huge flooded tectonic fault, or cenote, about
70 meters deep where you can swim in crystal waters.
The pools are formed by the partial collapse of the cave
roof. The restaurant is set beside a deep pool connected
to the sea by a cave. Colourful tropical fish swim in the
deep water. The location is a good location for
snorkeling and scuba diving. The water is crystal clear.
Some went for a swim after lunch before we continued
on to.
Wild Flowers - Cueva de los Peces (Cave of Fishes)
- Playa Larga
Hawker Sea Fury - Museo de Playa Girón
The final battle of the abortive invasion
the three days of fighting, showing disposition of troops and the
As towns in Cuba go Cienfuegos is relatively young having
took place here and the small Bay of Pigs
final victory at Playa Girón. Cuban and some captured weapons
been established in 1819 by a French émigré. The town
museum,
Girón,
are on display. The final humiliation for the US was the return of
became a major sugar exporting port and has many fine
commemorates the Cuban victory over the
the captured invaders in exchange for substantial, food, clothing
buildings around the main square. Notably the Teatro Tomas
invading force sponsored by the American
and medical supplies.
Terry, built by the family of a Venezuelan slave trader who
Museo
de
Playa
CIA. It is a straightforward presentation of
bought sick slaves, restored them to health and resold them.
33
The square is a leafy shaded area and a pleasant place to relax
out of the sun.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cienfuegos
Old Lady - Parque Marti – Cienfuegos
Teatro Tomas Terry - Parque Marti – Cienfuegos
Tomás Terry (died 1886)[1] was a Cuban business magnate.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom%C3%A1s_Terry
Cienfuegos
Of Venezuelan origin, Terry initially became involved in the
slave trade in Cuba, making his first $10,000 by buying sick
slaves, nursing them back to health, and then reselling them
healthy for a large profit.[2] He bought the Caracas sugar mill for
$23,000, and upgraded it to be the first in Cuba to use
electricity.[2] He went on to make a fortune through involvement
in all aspects of the economy, from the sugar trade and slave
trade to banking and imports, becoming the dominant
businessman in Cienfuegos and earning the nickname the
"Cuban Croesus".[1] His fortune grew to be among the largest in
the world, with a net worth of about $725,000 in 1851,
$3,090,00 in 1860, $7,890,000 in 1870, $13,760,000 in 1880,
Tomas Terry - Teatro Tomas Terry
34
and over $25,000,000 at his death in 1886.[1] He married a
Parque Marti – Cienfuegos
daughter of Andrés Dorticós, a prominent local merchant.[3]
Teatro Tomas Terry
building, which can hold up to 950 people, contains wood
carved seats and the ceiling is adorned with an exquisite
http://www.planetware.com/cienfuegos/tea
painted ceiling.
tro-tomas-terry-cub-ci-ctt.htm
One of the most impressive buildings in
Cienfuegos is the Teatro Tomas Terry on
the north end of Parque Marti. This theatre
was built by the family of Tomas Terry, the
former mayor of Cienfuegos, as a tribute
to the man, following his death. A statue of
Tomas Terry stands in the lobby. This
Italian looking theatre was the creation of
Town Hall - Parque Marti - Cienfuegos
architect Lino Sanchez Marmol and was
The Hotel Jagua is a relatively modern hotel. The aircon works,
built in 1889. The two story Teatro Tomas
Terry has five arches on the ground level
to mark each entrance, while the second
level displays square window and a small
central balcony. On the roof level, three
arches frame gold murals, giving the
theatre a distinct flare. The interior of the
Teatro Tomas Terry - Parque Marti – Cienfuegos
the rooms are large and the pool is a good place to relax. A
number of nearby restaurants nearby provide a choice of places
This port and industrial centre has a population is about
to eat. However don’ t plan to eat late as they close around
140,000. Nearby is the shell of an unfinished nuclear power
2200.
station that was being built with Soviet assistance. When the
USSR collapsed the financial assistance dried up.
Cienfuegos (Santa Clara)
Day 09
As we are not leaving Cienfuegos for
Along the way is an interesting sculpture park and the Club
we approach the centre of town the houses are smaller,
Santa Clara until 1130 most of us walk
Cienfuegos, once the American Yacht Club, is a very elegant
crowded together and in need of repair. People do not own their
into the centre of Cienfuegos along the
yacht club, set in extensive grounds, with a small marina.
houses but have permanent residency. They cannot sell their
waterfront. Although the sun is quite hot
the breeze from the sea is pleasant.
homes and generally do not maintain them themselves,
Along this strip houses are fairly modern, and detached from
expecting the state to do so.
one another; some are quite large and well kept. However as
35
Abandoned, Unfinished Nuclear Power Station –
Cienfuegos
Bicycle Frame – Sculpture Park – Cienfuegos
Santa Clara was established in 1689 by 175 people, 138 of
The centre of town is much busier this morning and by the time
whom were members of two large land owning families living in
we have strolled through the Mall and had a drink the car has
the area.
arrived at the appointed place to take us to Santa Clara.
Hotel Jagua – Cienfuegos
Hammer Head - Sculpture Park – Cienfuegos
36
Club Cienfuegos
Marina - Club Cienfuegos
Typical Waterfront House – Cienfuegos
Street Scene – Cienfuegos
Port – Cienfuegos
Church – Santa Clara
Che Guevara - Che Guevara
Mausoleum – Santa Clara
Teatro la Caridad - Santa Clara
Santa Clara Pitcher – Santa Clara
Baseball Stadium
37
The main city of the province of Villa Clara, Santa Clara is
At 1700 Villa Clara are playing Ciego de Avila in the baseball
famous in modern Cuban history for the pivotal battle when
stadium at Villa Clara. We arrive at 1600 and the stands are
freedom fighters lead by Che Guevara defeated the Batiste
already filling, visitors on the right and the home team on the
government’ s army in December 1958. On New Years Eve
left. There is much excitement at this is the third game of the
1958 Batiste fled the country with $US 40million.
playoff between these teams. Villa Clara has won the first two
games away and is favorites for this game.
In Revolution Square there is a most impressive memorial and
mausoleum honouring Che and a band of freedom fighters
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Villa_Clara_(baseball)
captured and killed fighting in Bolivia in 1967.
The game does not start well for Villa Clara; their starting
Man Waiting – Cienfuegos
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Clara,_
Cuba
Their remains were eventually returned to Cuba and interred in
pitcher is unable to control the opponents and by the end of the
the mausoleum. The grand edifice contrasts with the dilapidate
third innings Ciega de Avila is leading 3-1. However Villa Clara
housing in the surrounding suburbs!
draws level in the fourth innings. A change of pitcher by Villa
Clara swings the game their way and scores remain level until
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mausoleo_Che_Guevara
the bottom of the ninth inning when Villa Clara scores a home
run to win the game.
Che Guevara Mausoleum – Santa Clara
Houses alongside the Che Guevara Mausoleum –
Santa Clara
Sleeper – Santa Clara
We had left the game at the end of the fifth inning to
return to Cienfuegos about 60km away. Exiting the
ground we find our car has broken down and tomorrow
38
there will be a new car and our departure for Trinidad will
http://worldbbtoday.blogspot.com/2009/06/la-habana-
be delayed.
tops-villa-clara-for-cuban.html
Villa Clara eventually won the game several days later
with a home run off the first ball of the bottom of the
ninth inning after the game had been postponed at the
end of the top of the ninth the previous day due to rain.
Between Innings Entertainment – Santa Clara
Baseball Stadium
Pre Game Display – Santa Clara Baseball Stadium
Santa Clara Fans
They went on to win the playoff, winning five straight
games. However they were beaten in the finals 5-0 by
La Habana
Santa Clara Baseball Stadium
http://www.cubaheadlines.com/2009/05/21/17284/cuban
_baseball_championship_villa_clara_returns_home_unbe
aten_baseball_play_off.html
Ciega de Avila Batter – Santa Clara Baseball
Stadium
39
Friday 22-May-2009
Cienfuegos to Trinidad
We expect our new car at 1400 so with little to do except
At 1300 we all check out in anticipation of the car
relax around the pool it is a chance to catch up on the
arriving as planned and so the long wait begins. Finally
notes and email the first week’ s notes to everyone.
Carlos discovers the car left Habana after noon and was
Day 10
now expected at 1700.
The car duly arrives and we are off on the 90 minute
drive to Trinidad. Trinidad was declared by UNESCO as
a World Heritage Site in 1988.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trinidad,_Cuba
Trinidad was founded on December 23, 1514[1] by Diego
Pool - Hotel Jagua – Cienfuegos
Velázquez de Cuéllar under the name Villa De la
Santísima Trinidad. Francisco Iznaga, a rich Basque
landowner in the western portion of Cuba during the first
Restaurant beside Hotel Jagua – Cienfuegos
30 years of the colonization of Cuba, was elected Mayor
of Bayamo in 1540.Iznaga was the originator of a
powerful lineage that finally settled in Trinidad where the
Torre Iznaga is. His descendents fought for the
Independence of Cuba and the Annexation to the US
from 1820 to 1900. Its one of the best preserved cities in
the Caribbean from the time when the sugar trade was
the main industry in the region.
Sierra del Escambray
Arriving at the Costa Sur Hotel seaside resort about
Lobby - Hotel Jagua – Cienfuegos
40
http://www.netssa.com/trinidad.html
13km from Trinidad at 1830 we have time for a swim
http://www.gocuba.ca/en/destination_trinidad.asp
before dinner and settling down to watch the fourth
http://www.dtcuba.com/PoloInfo.aspx?pc=9&lng=2
game of the Villa Clara - Ciego de Avila playoff.
Disappointment tonight for the home team! The playoff
http://www.cubahotelbookings.com/hotel-
We also discover that food and drink are included at the
continues tomorrow afternoon.
view.asp?lID=1&hID=289
Costa Sur Hotel
Trinidad
Day 11
however 2 years later most of the inhabitants joined the
industry moved to the better port at Cienfuegos and the local
invasion of Mexico lead by Hernán Cortéz and the town
industry never recovered.
languished until it became a pirate haven in the
17th
C.
Dark Eyed Woman - Plaza Mayor –
Trinidad
This morning we have a tour of the centre
Typical Iron Window Grills – Trinidad
of Trinidad arriving in the outskirts of the
town about 0915. The centre is closed to
Pool - Costa Sur Hotel – Trinidad
The town remained almost unchanged, slowly decaying, until it
vehicles and so it is a short walk along the
Things began to change at the beginning of the
C with the
became a World Heritage Site. The injection of UNESCO funds
rough cobbled streets to the town square,
arrival of French settlers from Haiti and the establishment of
and the restoration of many of the important buildings; many of
Plaza Mayor. This beautiful, small square
more than 50 small sugar mills. In its heyday a third of Cuban
which are now museums and restaurants has given the town a
is
sugar was produced in the region and the wealth generated
new life as a centre for tourists and in the northern winter the
resulted in the rich houses of central Trinidad.
streets are packed with tourist. It is quieter now but we have
surrounded
by
restored
colonial
buildings.
19th
started early and as the morning progresses the busloads of
Trinidad was established in 1514 by
This all ended abruptly at the end of the 19th C during the wars
conquistador Diego Velázquez de Cuéllar
of independence. After the wars ended the centre of the sugar
tourists start their march through the streets.
41
Restored Colonial Building – Plaza Mayor – Trinidad
Museo Romantico - Palacio Brunet - Plaza Mayor –
Trinidad
Dining Room - Palacio Brunet - Plaza
Mayor – Trinidad
The Museo Romantica stands beside the
Iglesia Parroquial de la Santisima Trinidad
(Church of the Holy Trinity) on the
northeastern side of the square. The
Museo is in the Palacio Brunet the former
home of a wealthy trader. The ground floor
was built in 1740 and the upper floor in
Church of the Holy Trinity - Plaza Mayor – Trinidad
Palacio Brunet / Museo Romantico
1808. The museum houses furnishings
from the 19th C, typical of those originally
http://www.planetware.com/trinidad/palacio-brunet-museo-
in the house.
romantico-cub-ss-tpb.htm
Plaza Mayor – Trinidad
The Palacio Brunet houses the Museo Romantico, with a fine
collection of furniture and household wares from the early to
mid 19th Century. This Colonial Mansion, built in the early 19th
Century was owned by wealthy sugar mill owner Conde de
Brunet from 1830 to 1860, which is referred to as the Romantic
42
period. The Museo Romantico's collection
is comprised of pieces from several
Trinidad families, but primarily items that
belonged to the Brunet family. On display
are glass, porcelain, artwork, furniture,
and other items from this time period. The
Palacio Brunet is a very impressive piece
of architecture with much detail and is well
worth a visit.
Sitting Room - Palacio Brunet - Plaza Mayor – Trinidad
Ceiling Detail - Palacio Brunet - Plaza Mayor – Trinidad
Roofs of Trinidad de Cuba
Steps beside Church of the Holy Trinity to Casa de
Music - Plaza Mayor – Trinidad
Typically Spanish in style it is unusually light and airy inside.
Above the square to the north-east stands the Church of the
Vase - Museo Romantico - Palacio
Brunet - Plaza Mayor – Trinidad
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plaza_Mayor,_Trinidad,_Cuba
Holy Trinity (Iglesia Parroquial de la Santísima Trinidad).
Construction began on the current church in the late 19th
The Holy Trinity church was constructed in
century and it was completed in 1892. It was built on the site of
1892 on the site of an earlier church.
a previous 17th century church that was destroyed during the
43
19th century by a cyclone which damaged
abandoning part of its cargo which included the statue of Christ.
a great many buildings in Trinidad.
This was taken as divine intervention by the local population
and the statue has been housed in the church ever since. Also
housed within the building is a large Gothic revival altar
dedicated to Our Lady of Mercy (Nuestra Señora de la Piedad).
Kitchen - Palacio Brunet - Plaza Mayor – Trinidad
House of the Conspirators - Plaza Mayor – Trinidad
The church has a Neoclassical façade, but little architectural
Courtyard - Palacio Brunet - Plaza
Mayor – Trinidad
attention was paid to the mostly concealed rear of the church.
The church contains an 18th-century
To the right of the church is a flight of steps leading to the Casa
wooden statue of Christ, "The Lord of the
de la Musica (House of Music), a modern building constructed
True Cross" ("El Señor de la Vera Cruz")
in a style similar to those nearby.
which is an object of particular reverence
in Trinidad. Originally destined for a
Beyond the steps to the left of the Church is the House of the
church in Veracruz in Mexico, the ship
Conspirators (La Casa de los Consipiradores). This has a
carrying the statue was driven back to
wooden balcony on one corner overlooking the square and is
Trinidad three times by bad weather and
named because it was the former meeting place of the Cuban
was only able to make the journey after
44
nationalist secret society La Rosa de Cuba (The Rose of Cuba).
Craft Market – Trinidad
Further down the street is the Plazuela de la Trova, a small
square surrounded by 18th-century houses including the Casa
de la Trova which features wooden barrotes and is now a live
music venue.
in 1723. The house has its original cedar roof. Canchanchars is
a drink of the region, made from lemon juice, honey and
Santero Cubam rum, served in glazed ceramic pots.
This blend mixes with the magic of a place frozen in time. This
was the drink of the Mambises – Cuban Liberating Army.
Until 1300 we are able to wander around the local souvenir
market. This does not take long a few stalls have some hand
embroidered linen and crochet work but most of the stuff is
tourist junk and pretty poor quality.
Crayfish Dinner – Trinidad
Church of the Holy Trinity - Plaza
Mayor – Trinidad
We have peeked into houses along the
streets, seen the local officials fumigating
houses
against
mosquitoes,
explored
some gift shops and photographed the
local people and by 1130 it is time to visit
the La Canchanchara and enjoy a cocktail
to break up the day.
Street Musicians – Trinidad
It does not take long to look through the market and Ian and I
climb up to the café at the Casa de Music for a cool soft drink.
Rain stopped the baseball game in Santa Clara and the game
La Canchanchara is a famous Trinidad
was subsequently abandoned.
Our Hostesses - Crayfish Dinner - Trinidad
This evening we dined on grilled lobster at a private home. An
excellent simple meal! We had planned to spend the evening
listening to music in Trinidad but the rain pattern moved in
forcing us to move under cover to finish dinner and abandon the
music.
tavern housed in a mansion that was built
45
The result is a relatively early night. If the
Sunday 24-May-2009
rain clears we will try for the music tomorrow night.
Trinidad
Day 12
This morning Carlos, our guide, is taking
2.5 hours but this includes time for a stop
native
herbal
When we reach the Cascada there is a
us to the Parque el Cubano just outside
at a farmhouse for a drink and a swim in
remedies. The surrounding forest is quite
large tour group already there and some
Trinidad for a walk in the forest and swim.
the pool below Cascada Javira.
dense and majestic royal palms thrust
are swimming. A group of school children
through the canopy. There are plenty of
and some families arrive soon after and
birds to be heard but I don’ t see many of
the small clear space on the rocks
them.
becomes quite crowded. Ian and Stewart
plants,
especially
as
go for a swim in the pool that is 9m deep
below the waterfall. There is a large
cavern behind the waterfall.
Cascada Javira - Parque el Cubano –
Trinidad
Parque el Cubano – Trinidad
The path is quite easy going for the most
We leave the resort at 0830 for a
part but in some places is slippery from
30minute drive to the park. The walk is a
last night’ s rain. Along the way Carlos
3.5km round trip that is signposted to take
explains some of the uses of some of the
46
Enjoying the Music – Trinidad
Tocororo - Parque el Cubano –
Trinidad
On our way back to the car we are
fortunate to spot a Tocororo, Cuba’ s red,
white and blue national bird, perched on a
for the music on the steps beside church.
in a good position in front of the band.
were departing at 0830 in the morning our
branch close to the path.
We believed the action started at 2200 but
Latecomers had to sit on the stony stairs.
driver needed to get back to the hotel for a
tonight it started at 2100. Our early arrival
Today the weather is with us and after
meant we had a table and chairs to sit on
dinner we are driven to the centre Trinidad
good night’ s sleep so we returned to the
It was a lively scene by 2200 with couples
hotel at about 2300.
dancing and the band in full swing. As we
Rangers House - Parque el Cubano – Trinidad
Cascada Javira - Parque el Cubano – Trinidad
Cascada Javira - Parque el Cubano – Trinidad
Trinidad at Night
47
Local Taxi – Trinidad
Monday 25-May-2009
Our
planned
frustrated
as
departure
Ian’ s
at
Dancers and Musicians beside the Church –
Trinidad
Trinidad to Camagüey
0830
laundry
is
Old Guy dancing with Tourist - Trinidad
Day 13
way to Camagüey. However we have lost nearly two hours.
has
disappeared and it is 0930 when the hotel
declares they have been in touch with the
laundress and we can pick it up on the
way through Trinidad. So we set of and
when we get to the house we discover the
hotel has found the laundry and they will
bring it to an associated hotel in Trinidad.
We head to the hotel which is high above
the town with commanding views of the
countryside and sit down to a cup of
coffee while we wait. Fortunately the
laundry soon arrives and we are on our
48
View from Torre Vigía - Manaca Iznaga – Sugar Mill
Valley
View from Torre Vigía - Manaca Iznaga – Sugar Mill
Valley
the steep steps to the top. From the top there are 360o views of
http://www.cubaheadlines.com/2009/04/13/16722/sugar_mill_va
the valley.
lley_trinidad_cuba.html
Vaqueros - Manaca Iznaga – Sugar Mill Valley
Our Cycle Taxis – Camagüey
A lunch stop at a roadside café at about 1230 gives the driver a
Torre Vigía - Manaca Iznaga – Sugar
Mill Valley
break and the rest of a chance to stretch our legs. The car is
We were scheduled to visit the Sugar Mill
there are bumps at every bridge and drainage culvert regularly
Valley on Saturday but since they are on
bouncing us around.
cramped for long distances and although the road is quite good
our way today it made much more sense
to see them today. Sugar Mill Valley was
For much of the journey we have travelled through cane fields
where there were over 50 small sugar
but when we enter Camagüey Province cattle and dairy farming
mills prior to the wars of independence.
becomes more prominent.
One of the wealthy sugar farmers built
Finally at about 1500 we reach Camagüey city and the Gran
Manaca Iznaga Tower; no one seems to
know why, except to show off his wealth.
Iglesia de Neustra Señora de la Merced - Plaza de los
Trabajadores – Camagüey
The tower is 45.5m high with 7 floors and
http://www.periodico26.cu/english/features/mar2009/trinidad041
136 steps to reach the top. We all climb
109.html
Hotel. Listed in July 2008 by UNESCO as World Heritage Site,
the city is now undergoing restoration.
49
labyrinthine to confuse marauding pirates. The cathedral was
ha Historic Centre of Camagüey constitutes an exceptional
sacked by Henry Morgan in 1668.
example of a traditional urban settlement relatively isolated from
main trade routes. The Spanish colonizers followed medieval
European influences in terms of urban layout and traditional
construction techniques brought to the Americas by their
masons and construction masters. The property reflects the
influence of numerous styles through the ages: neoclassical,
eclectic, Art Deco, Neo-colonial as well as some Art Nouveau
and rationalism.
We take a short tour of the inner city in cycle taxis. A good way
to see this very flat city!
The first stop is Plaza de los Trabajadores where once bullfights
Teatro Principal – Camagüey
Early water supplies were unreliable and the townspeople were
Courtyard – Gran Hotel - Camagüey
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camag%C3%B
Cey
http://www.cubajunky.com/camaguey/camaguey-cityhome.htm
Founded by Velázquez in 1514 on the
coast the city moved twice to avoid
marauding Taíno Indians, finally settling at
its present site in 1528.
Unlike other towns with their rectangular
street layout, Camagüey is deliberately
50
forced to make huge pots, tinajones, in which to store water.
These can still be seen around the town, purely for decorative
purposes.
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1270
One of the first seven villages founded by the Spaniards in
Cuba, Camagüey played a prominent role as the urban centre
of an inland territory dedicated to cattle breeding and the sugar
industry. Settled in its current location in 1528, the town
developed on the basis of an irregular urban pattern that
contains a system of large and minor squares, serpentine
streets, alleys and irregular urban blocks, highly exceptional for
Latin American colonial towns located in plain territories. The 54
were held. On one side is the grand Iglesia de Neustra Señora
de la Merced.
Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Merced
http://www.planetware.com/camaguey/iglesia-de-nuestrasenora-de-la-merced-cub-ca-cin.htm
The Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Merced is the most
interesting and impressive church in Camaguey and home to
the silver Holy Sepulcher. The history of the church dates to
1601 when the first Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Merced
was built. According to legend a figure appeared on this spot
and the miraculous event led to the building of the church. In
the middle of the 18th Century it was rebuilt with a church and
convent. Later reconstructions also took place but the church
today maintains a Baroque façade. The
The most prized possession of the Iglesia de Nuestra Senora
cremated by the Spanish authorities in Camagüey for fear that
interior boasts some beautiful and unique
de la Merced is the Holy Sepulcher, a silver coffin made from
his troops would assault the city to recover his body.
looking murals.
23,000 silver coins donated by followers. The Holy Sepulcher
contains an 18th Century Christ statue, created by Juan Benitez
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignacio_Agramonte
Alfonso, a Mexican sculptor.
Sculpture - Plaza del Carmen – Camagüey
Moving on we come to the Plaza del Carmen where there are a
Nuestra Señora del Carmen Temple - Plaza del Carmen –
Camagüey
Plaza San Juan de Dios / Plaza del Padre Olallo
number of statues of ordinary people scattered around the
Ignacio Agramonte - Parque Ignacio
Agramonte – Camagüey
square.
http://www.planetware.com/camaguey/plaza-san-juan-de-diosplaza-del-padre-olallo-cub-ca-cps.htm
Beneath the church are the catacombs,
http://www.adelante.cu/english/index.php/camag/37-
which are entered near the main altar.
province/458-plaza-del-carmen-an-architectural-jewel-of-
Plaza San Juan de Dios, also referred to as Plaza del Padre
People were buried in the catacombs until
camagueey
Olallo, is generally regarded as the most beautiful square in
Camaguey. Much of the square has undergone restoration and
1814. Visitors will see the usual bones and
skulls typical in catacombs, along with the
Local independence hero Ignacio Agramonte Agramonte was
is remarkably well preserved. It is surrounded by pastel colored
old wooden bell tower which is now stored
killed at the Battle of Jimaguayú on May 11th, 1873, where he
colonial
down here.
was struck on the head by a stray bullet. His body was
buildings, and the Iglesia y Hospital de San Juan de Dios, a
architecture,
which
includes
small
single
story
national monument. Built as a church with attached hospital in
the first half of the 18th Century, this historic building is now the
51
Direccion Provincial de Patrimonio and
well kept area and a good location to sit and relax. Marble
Oficina del Historiador de la Ciudad.
benches line the park. Surrounding Parque Ignacio Agramonte
are the Catedral de Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria, the
The Iglesia de San Juan de Dios is most
Palacio Collado, El Cambio, Casa de la Trova Patricio Ballagas,
noteworthy for the original floors and
and the Biblioteca Julio Antonio Mella.
ceiling and for its use of the Holy Trinity as
the central image, something unique for
On each corner of this square a palm tree was planted to
Latin America. The Hospital de San Juan
commemorate nationalist who were killed here in 1851.
de Dios has had a long and varied history,
being used as a military infirmary, a
teachers college, a hurricane shelter, and
now as a health institute.
Children at Window - Plaza San Juan de Dios – Camagüey
Finally we conclude our tour at the Parque
Ignacio Agramonte the centre piece of
which is a statue of Agramonte mounted
on a horse. Alongside is the Catedral de
Neustra Señora de la Candelaria.
Parque Ignacio Agramonte
http://www.planetware.com/camaguey/par
que-ignacio-agramonte-cub-ca-cpi.htm
Iglesia de San Juan de Dios - Plaza San Juan de Dios –
Camagüey
We dined at the Restaurant Isabella, a very nice pizza and
pasta restaurant near the Gran Hotel.
In the southern end of Camaguey's
historic city center is the Parque Ignacio
The rain interrupted game between Villa Clara and Ciego del
Agramonte.
Vegas with a home run from the first ball pitched in the bottom
Unmistakable
for
the
equestrian statue of Agromonte by Italian
sculptor Salvatore Boemi, the park is a
52
of the ninth innings clinching the play off for Villa Clara
Catedral de Neustra Señora de la Candelaria - Parque
Ignacio Agramonte – Camagüey
Tuesday 26-May-2009
Camagüey to Santiago de Cuba
Iglesia de Nuestra Córazon de
Sagrado Jesús – Camagüey
Iglesia de Nuestra Córazon de
Sagrado Jesús – Camagüey
Day 14
Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la
Soledad – Camagüey
Morning Bustle – Camagüey
After breakfast Mike and I have time for a short walk to
Returning to the hotel it is almost time to take our bags
the Iglesia de Nuestra Córazon de Sagrado Jesús on the
downstairs. To use the antiquated lift someone has to go
Parque Marti. There are memorials to José Martí, a hero
downstairs and get a porter to bring the lift up to our
http://www.planetware.com/camaguey/iglesia-de-
of the Wars of Independence, throughout Cuba. The
floor.
nuestra-senora-de-la-soledad-cub-ca-cins.htm
with the grand cathedrals in Spain. This one is no
Scheduled to depart at 0930 there is a delay at the hotel
At the corner of Republica and Agramonte stands the
exception.
and I have time to visit the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de
large brick Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Soledad.
la Soledad.
Built in 1776 this Cuban baroque church witnessed both
Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Soledad
Spanish churches in Cuba are light and airy compared
the baptism and wedding of local hero Ignacio
53
Agramonte. It is the oldest church in the town of
Under Céspedes the town was liberated from the
Camaguey. Although this may not be the most
Spanish in 1868. However a year later, fearing their town
impressive church in Camaguey, it does have some
would be captured by the Spanish, the townspeople
unique features. Some of the most noteworthy aspects
burnt their town to the ground and few buildings
of Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Soledad are the
remained. Bayamo was the second of the towns
painted friezes on the arches and pillars. It also boasts a
established by Diego Velázquez.
beautiful carved wooden ceiling, although access to the
interior of the church is difficult, with sporadic hours.
Today is one of our longest travel days with a stop for
La Catedral de Bayamo - Plaza del Himno –
Bayama
lunch in the historic Bayamo City in Granma province.
The province is named after the yacht that brought Fidel
Castro to Cuba. For most of the morning we are
traveling through paddy fields and cane fields. Cattle
ranching is an important industry. The country is very
flat.
Plaza del Himno – Bayama
Colonial Buildings - Parque Céspedes – Bayamo
Bayamo
http://www.cuba-junky.com/granma/bayamo-home.htm
Three Amigos – Morning stop en route to Bayama
Lunch is at La Bodega, a restaurant overlooking the Rio
Cauto. After lunch we explore the area around Parque
Capital City of Granma Province Population 128.000
View from Terrace – La Bodega – Bayama
Lots of coches to ride people around the city. Lots of
Céspedes. A statue of the ‘ Father of the Nation”
monuments because of its historical background of
Carlos Manuel de Parque Céspedes dominates the park.
fighting for freedom of slaves around 1868.
54
The capital of Granma Province. The city has a rich
beam ceiling, and above the altar, an attention-getting
tradition of Cuban national pride and is often referred to
battle mural commemorating a pivotal local episode
as "the Birthplace of Cuban Nationality" and "the Cradle
when the parish priest blessed the rebel army flag.
of Cuban Revolution." Additionally, Bayamo has always
been a center of philosophy and maintains a rich
intellectual and artistic tradition.
With a population of 130,000 people, Bayamo has
experienced considerable growth since it was founded
by the Spanish in 1513 as one of the original seven
Spanish cities in Cuba. Today, its major commercial
importance is in sugar refining.
Boy with ice Cream – Bayamo
Bayamo was a valuable hub in the Spanish slave trade,
especially as sugarcane crops became the area's
Juan, his wife and in-laws – Contramaestre
predominant economic asset. As a result, there is a
strong base of Afro-Cuban culture in the area.
During the 1800's, the emerging upper-middle class of
sugarcane farm owners began to be dissatisfied from
their lack of representation and influence in the Spanish
colonial government. They resented the governors'
tactics of continually ensuring that most power, and
therefore economic benefit, remained in the hands of
Main Street – Bayamo
La Catedral de Bayamo
European-born Spaniards.
(La Catedral del Santísimo Salvador)
Bayamo was the stronghold of early revolutionary Carlos
Manuel de Céspedes, who freed his slaves and declared
An immense, ochre-colored, 16th-century church that
war against colonialist Spain. During the ensuing battles,
succumbed to the 1869 fire. Rebuilt several times over
Bayamo exchanged hands several times and was once
the course of its life, the church was recently
burned to the ground by Cuban rebels as the city was
magnificently restored. It features a high peaked wood-
Juan’s in-laws house – Contramaestre
being sacked by the Spanish.
55
carved wooden ceiling and fine baroque altarpiece.
The light blue and pink building at one end of the square, which
today houses a pharmacy, is where the great blaze began. At
one end of the plaza is a marble bust of the independence
fighter Perucho Figueredo that carries the words and music to
La Bayamesa (later the national anthem), which implores
followers not to fear "a glorious death" and encourages Cubans
that to "die for the homeland is to live." On the other side is a
stately granite and bronze statue of Carlos Manuel de
Céspedes. Ringing the square are handsome, pastel-colored,
arcaded colonial-style (post-1869) buildings. Had the city not
been consumed by fire, in all likelihood it would resemble the
remarkable colonial core of Trinidad.
Along the road – Contramaestre to Santiago de Cuba
Carlos Manuel de Céspedes – Parque
Céspedes – Bayamo
This blurring of the lines between church
and state was not the only overtly political
statement to take place in the cathedral;
the first singing of the revolutionary
anthem was staged here in 1869. The
cathedral is open to visitors daily from
Casa de la Trova - Santiago de Cuba
9am to 1pm and 3 to 5pm. To one side of
the cathedral, the small chapel Capilla de
La Dolorosa (Chapel of the Lady of
Sorrows),
which
dates
to
1630,
Pool – SanJuan Hotel - Santiago de Cuba
Parque Céspedes
is
distinguished by a lovely Moorish-style
Parque Céspedes is the focal point of downtown Bayamo. It's
an exquisite, peaceful square flanked by tall royal palm trees.
56
After lunch we have an unscheduled stop at Contramaestre, the
hometown of our driver Juan’ s wife. She is staying with her
parents and when we pull up at the house we are invited in for
coffee.
A
small
comfortable
house
with
most
modern
convenience it was fortunate there were only four of us. We
were made to feel most welcome and
After settling in and covering ourselves with mosquito repellent
some of the neighbors called in to meet
It is after 1800 when we finally reach the San Juan Hotel on
we head into town for dinner at a local restaurant, Café
us. It was one of those rare opportunities
San Juan Hill, overlooking Santiago de Cuba.
Palmares. Very nice grilled pork chop!
to meet local people in their own homes.
Wednesday27-May-2009 Santiago de Cuba
Cuban Revolution. It was founded by Diego Velázquez in 1514.
Day 15
Hernando de Soto's expedition to Florida. The first cathedral
was built in the city in 1528. From 1522 until 1589 Santiago was
the capital of the Spanish colony of Cuba.
General Antonio Maceo - Plaza de la Revolucion –
Santiago de Cuba
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santiago_de_Cuba
Moncada Barracks - Santiago de Cuba
Santiago de Cuba is the second most
important city in Cuba. Exuding both
music and history, it is considered the
capital of the eastern part of the island and
birthplace of ‘ son’
music and of the
Plaza de la Revolucion – Each Shard represent a Battle
Wound received by Maceo
Santiago de Cuba was founded by Spanish conquistador Diego
The city was plundered by French forces in 1553, and by British
Velázquez de Cuéllar on June 28, 1514. In 1516 the settlement
forces under Christopher Myngs in 1662.
was destroyed by fire, and was immediately rebuilt. This was
the starting point of the expeditions led by Juan de Grijalba and
The city experienced an influx of French immigrants in the late
Hernán Cortés to the coasts of Mexico in 1518, and in 1538 by
18th century and early 19th century, many coming from Haiti
57
after the Haitian slave revolt of 1791. This
its Atlantic fleet just outside Santiago's harbor.
added to the city's eclectic cultural mix,
The Plaza de la Revolucion lies to the northeast of the city
already rich with Spanish and African
Cuban poet, writer, and national hero, José Martí, is buried in
center in Santiago de Cuba. This large square contains a
culture.
Cementerio Santa Efigenia.
monument dedicated to the 19th century war hero, General
Antonio Maceo. There is a large sculpture of the man on
http://www.santiago-de-cuba.net/sights.htm
horseback with symbolic machetes rising up from the grass
below him. The sculpture was created by a local Santiago de
Our tour of Santiago starts with a visit to the Plaza de la
Cuba artist, Alberto Lezcay, and erected in the 1990s.
Revolución a massive memorial to the Wars of Independence
and the Revolution and features a massive statue of
independence wars hero Antonio Maceo who fought in both
Wars of Independence.
Martires del 26 de Juliio de 1953 - Cementerio de
Santa Ifigenia - Santiago de Cuba
Tomb of Trova Legend Compay
Segoundo - Cementerio de Santa
Ifigenia - Santiago de Cuba
It was also the location where Spanish
troops faced their main defeat at San Juan
Hill on July 1, 1898, during the Spanish-
Plaza de la Revolucion has been the site of many important
speeches and events over the years. Fidel Castro has used the
Model of ‘Granma’ – Museum - The Cementerio Santa
Moncada Barracks - Santiago de Cuba
Plaza de la Revolucion
American War. Spain later surrendered to
the United States after the destruction of
http://www.planetware.com/santiago-de-cuba/plaza-de-larevolucion-cub-sc-spr.htm
58
square to deliver several speeches, the Pope said mass here
during his visit to Cuba in 1998, and many protests have been
held here as well.
Located on Plaza de la Revolucion is the
holograms
Ifigenia is the final resting place of many of the revolutionary
The Cementerio de Santa Ifigenia in Santiago de Cuba is home
depicting images from the Revolution and
martyrs and others who have played important roles in Cuba’ s
to the remains of some of Cuba's most famous military figures,
of General Maceo.
fight for independence and the revolution led by Fidel Castro.
as well as people of wealth and notoriety. Some of the
The bodies of many of those killed in and after the attack on the
monuments marking the tombs are spectacular works of art.
Moncadas
100
One of the most impressive features in the cemetery is the
revolutionaries lead by Fidel Castro. The attack was a disaster
Mausoleum of Jose Marti. This huge structure towers over the
and many were killed in the battle and most of the rest were
surroundings and was designed to allow a stream of light to
captured, tortured and killed. Castro was captured and tried and
enter in throughout the morning hours.
Museo
Holografia
with
Garrison
on
July
26
1953
by
about
sentenced to 15 years jail. He was released after serving 2
years. The Garrison is now a school and houses a museum
The Cementerio de Santa Ifigenia also contains the tombs of
showing the events of the attack and the fate of the
Carlos Manuel de Cespedes, Emilio Bacardi, and Frank Pais.
revolutionaries.
Famous Cuban's are still being buried here, including musician
Compay Segundo who was laid to rest here in 2003.
Every thirty minutes is a changing of the guard ceremony.
José Marti’s Mausoleum - Cementerio
de Santa Ifigenia - Santiago de Cuba
Maceo fought in the independence wars of
1868 to 1878 and 1895. He suffered 25
battle injuries and was killed in action at
Punta Brava on December 7 1896.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antonio_Maceo
_Grajales
Eternal Flame - Plaza de la Revolucion – Santiago de
Cuba
Cementerio de Santa Ifigenia
http://www.planetware.com/santiago-de-cuba/cementerio-de-
Changing of the Guard – Marti Mausoleum - Cementerio
de Santa Ifigenia - Santiago de Cuba
santa-ifigenia-cub-sc-scs.htm
59
into a group of soldiers at the gate who had realized an
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moncada_Barracks
attack was in progress. The men in the cars behind him
jumped out of their cars, believing they were inside the
On July 26, 1953, at 6:00AM, Fidel Castro and his
barracks, and the alarm was sounded before the
brother Raúl led a group of approximately 120 rebels
barracks had been infiltrated. According to Castro, this
(with an additional 40 intending to take the barracks at
was the fatal mistake in the operation.[15] The net result
Bayamo)[11] in an attack on the second largest military
of these events was the rebels being outnumbered more
garrison in Cuba, headquarters of the
400[12]
(others say
than 10 to 1.
about 1,000) strong Antonio Maceo regiment, under the
command of President Fulgencio Batista.
Castillo de San Pedro del Morro - Santiago de
Cuba
Cuartel Moncada / Museo Historico 26 de Julio
The group formed a sixteen-automobile caravan in order
to give the appearance of being a delegation headed by
a high-ranking officer sent from western Cuba.
http://www.planetware.com/santiago-de-cuba/cuartel-
Their plan was that a first group of twenty men led by
moncada-museo-historico-26-de-julio-cub-sc-scm.htm
Abel Santamaría would take the civilian hospital at the
rear of the barracks, a second group of five men led by
The Cuartel Moncada barracks fell under attack on July
Léster Rodríguez would take the Audiencia Building
26th, 1953 during the carnival celebrations, by rebel
(Palacio de Justicia),[13] and a third group of 90 men, led
forces, led by Fidel Castro, Raul Castro, and Che
by Castro, would take the barracks,[14] including the radio
Guevara. They were intent on capturing the barracks to
transmitter within it.
obtain weapons. The attempt on Moncada failed but the
Cannon Ball Hoist - Castillo de San Pedro del
Morro - Santiago de Cuba
Fifteen soldiers and three policemen were killed and 23
revolutionaries gained recognition. The Museo Historico
The attack began poorly. The caravan of automobiles
soldiers and five policemen wounded during the attack.
26 de Julio is now housed in the former Cuartel
became separated by the time it arrived at the barracks,
Nine rebels were killed in combat and eleven wounded,
Moncada, along with the Ciudad Escolar 26 de Julio.
and the car carrying the guerillas' heavy weapons got
four of them by friendly fire.
The museum, describes the history of Cuba from the
lost. Furthermore, many of the rebels who would have
five were killed in the fighting, and fifty-six were
1500s onward, with particular attention paid to the
taken part in the attack were left behind for a lack of
"murdered" later by the Batista regime.[17]) Eighteen
events of the 1950s, including the attack at Santiago de
weapons. The rebels also lost their possibility of surprise
rebels captured in the Civil Hospital were immediately
Cuba on July 26, 1953.
when Castro lost control of his car, crashed, and
executed in the Moncada small-arms target range within
60
(Castro recollects that
In
two hours after the attack. Their corpses were strewn
Castro's autobiography, he claims that he drove his car
throughout the garrison to simulate death in combat.[18]
someone from the rebels opened fire to cover
Moncada Barracks Attack
[16]
him.[12]
Thirty-four fleeing rebels captured during the next three
rebellion. Fifteen of them, including deposed President
del Rio Chaviano, impeded Castro from returning to
days were murdered after admitting their participation.
Carlos Prio, Aureliano Sanchez Arango, Jose Pardo
court by claiming that he could not attend due to illness.
Fidel Castro's Black Legend of rebel torture, eye
Llada,
The tribunal then separated Castro from the proceedings
gouging, castration, and dismemberment, does not hold
and
Communist
leader
Blas
underground or in exile and never went to
Roca,
were
court.[20]
and granted him a separate trial. Nineteen rebels were
up to the impartial testimony of funeral director Manuel
found not guilty based on lack of evidence and their false
Bartolomé, who retrieved the rebel cadavers, and is not
testimony. Confessed leaders Raul Castro, Oscar
substantiated
death
Alcalde, Pedro Miret, and Ernesto Tizol received 13-year
certificates, court testimony, or newsmedia coverage of
prison sentences. Twenty other rebels received 10-year
the subsequent trial.
A handful of rebels, including
sentences. Rebels Manuel Lorenzo, Eduardo Rodriguez,
Fidel Castro, escaped into the nearby countryside but
and Orlando Cortez Gallardo, who refused to participate
were apprehended shortly thereafter.
in the attack at the last moment, got 3-year sentences.
by
forensic
[19]
photographs,
Melba Hernandez and Haydee Santamaria were given
seven-month sentences since it was never proven that
they handled weapons.[21]
Cuba
The trial in the Santiago de Cuba Palace of Justice
Morro Castle is a Spanish castle built to defend the
narrow entrance to Santiago harbour. It is situated on a
high bluff with commanding coverage of the channel.
began on Sept. 21, 1953 and ended on Oct. 6, 1953,
after eleven sessions. The Cuban Civil Code of Justice,
based on the Napoleonic Code practiced in Europe and
Latin America, has the verdict determined by a panel of
Cuba
three judges instead of a jury of peers under "common
The Santiago de Cuba Urgency Tribunal indicted 122
the accused heard the charges against them, they were
defendants in Case 37 of 1953 to stand trial for the July
called to testify on their own behalf. The defendants
26 insurrection. Fifty-one of the 99 rebel survivors who
were represented by 24 attorneys. Fidel Castro assumed
were captured were remanded for trial. Six indicted
his own defense and lied under oath to avoid implicating
rebels remained hiding. The other 65 defendants
rebels on trial. During the questioning of rebel witnesses,
implicated throughout the island were mostly political
Castro raised accusations of the murder of prisoners by
leaders and opposition activists not involved in the
the military. In consequence, Moncada chief Col. Alberto
law" in the U.S. and Great Britain. In accordance, after
Ship Entering Santiago Harbour
61
and was finally completed at the end of the 17th
Lunch is at the ZunZun Restaurant situated in a house in
Century. The original plans were designed by Italian
a former upper class region of Santiago. A very nice
engineer,Giovanni Bautista Antonelli, in 1587, although
lunch featuring calamari in tomato sauce!
construction did not begin for almost another 45 years.
Zunzun Restaurant
Castillo de San Pedro del Morro was originally intended
to protect against pirate attacks but has also served as a
http://www.cuba-junky.com/santiago-de-cuba/santiago-
prison in the late 1700s before being once again
de-cuba-city-paladars.htm
converted into a fortress. Today the building is open to
Lunch - ZunZun Restaurant - Santiago de Cuba
the public and contains a small naval museum with
Ave Manduley #159 esq. 7, Vista Alegre
displays on the history of the area as well as the history
Santiago de Cuba
of piracy in Santiago de Cuba. Castillo del Morro is one
Tel: +53 22 64-1369 / 22 64-1528
of the best preserved Spanish fortresses of the 17th
Century and has been declared a UNESCO World
Canalcubano: It was once the Tocororo restaurant with a
Heritage Site.
phenomenal
mansion
on
a
residential
avenue.
International food , based in quality shellfish. The wines
There are also great views from the over the bay from
menu is quite varied. It’ s one of the most luxurious
the roof and a restaurant on the terrace.
restaurants of the city.
Frommers:
This
elegant
and
upscale
restaurant
occupies a handsome 1940s house in the Vista Alegre
neighborhood. It has five private salons for intimate
Singers - ZunZun Restaurant - Santiago de Cuba
Castillo de San Pedro del Morro
dining, and a couple of tables on a broad front veranda,
http://www.planetware.com/santiago-decuba/castillo-de-san-pedro-del-morro-cub-scscsp.htm
marble floors, and period furnishings -- some original to
which are my favorites. With relatively soft lighting,
the house -- ZunZún (formerly Tocororo) is the place in
town to splurge. Everything is very well prepared and
The huge fortress, Castillo de San Pedro del Morro,
nicely presented. It's especially good for seafood, like a
stands at the entrance to the Bay of Santiago, about
10km / 6mi southwest of Santiago de Cuba. Located
high upon a cliff top, the structure took decades to build
62
mixed grill of fish and shellfish; medallions of lobster,
Cathedral "Nuestra Señora de la Asunción –
Cespedes Park - Santiago de Cuba
shellfish, and shrimp; garlic shrimp; and lobster with
cilantro sauce. Carnivores can opt for a beef filet in red-
wine sauce or a spicy lamb stew. The tables here have
In 1663, It was tried to repair the damages, but it is not
white tablecloths and candles -- rarities in Cuba.
up to 1671 that reconstruction of the Second Cathedral
begins using the goods of the church of Jamaica that it
After lunch we spend some time in and around the main
was English possession; and the works are inaugurated
City Square, Cespedes Park. The park is surrounded by
February 24 1674 by Presbítero Francisco Ramos.
a number of grand buildings, including the Grand Hotel,
Museum Casa de Diego Velázquez
the Cathedral, the Municipal Offices and the oldest
remaining Spanish building in Cuba, built in 1522 by
http://www.santiagodecubacity.org/en/architecture/muse
Diego Velázquez.
um-diego-velazquez.html
Typical Balcony - Santiago de Cuba
In 1553, Jacques de Sores attacked the city and he
It is the mansion that belonged to Diego Velazquez
demanded the amount of 80 000 pesos for not
(Spanish conqueror, first Governor from Cuba and
destroying the Cathedral.
founder of the first seven villages in the country), built
between 1516 and 1530, even maintained in spite of the
In 1562 it suffered the first attack of French corsairs,
time and for the recent fires to which it has been
leaving the temple roofless and disabling the cult.
threatened.
In 1586, it was plundered again by the pirates, plunder
Municipal Administration Building - Cespedes Park
- Santiago de Cuba
that’ s repeats in 1603, and this time sets on fire it.
Twenty-five years later, in 1628, it was repaired and
open to the cult.
Cathedral "Nuestra Señora de la Asunción
In 1653, to expense of Don Juan Alvarez Salgado, the
Established in the early 16th C, the cathedral had a torrid
biggest Chapel was built.
history. It was several times attacked by pirates and
burnt.
The pirates Henry Morgan and Dolleys, in 1662, burn it
and plunder it, and they stolen until the bells of the
http://www.santiagodecubacity.org/en/architecture/cathe
temple.
San Juan Hill - Santiago de Cuba
dral-asuncion.html
63
We dined at an outdoor restaurant on Plaza Dolores and
http://www.eyewitnesstohistory.com/roughriders.htm
then adjourned to the Casa de la Trova to listen to
traditional Cuban music.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trova
Trova
At the moment this old house works as Cuban Historical
Trova is one of the great roots of the Cuban music tree.
Colonial
oldest
In the 19th century there grew up in Oriente, and
construction in Cuba is considered, which was also
especially Santiago de Cuba, a group of itinerant
House of the Indies and Foundry of the Spanish Crown.
musicians, trovadores, who moved around earning their
Environment's
Museum,
and
the
living by singing and playing the guitar.[1] According to
The house presents architectural and ornamental
elements of notable Moorish influences, as the artisans
Casa de la Trova - Santiago de Cuba
one writer, to qualify as a trovador in Cuba, a person
should a) sing songs of his own composition, or of others
Battle of San Juan Hill
and the lattices Windows of its balconies, with a roof of
carved cedar (in their majority it had to be reconstructed
of the same kind; b) accompany himself on the guitar;
and c) deal poetically with the song[2] This definition fits
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_San_Juan_Hill
after a fire).
best the singers of boleros, and less well the Afrocubans
The Battle of San Juan Hill (July 1, 1898) is an actual
singing funky sones (El Guayabero) or even guaguancós
In the last floor was the rooms; the ground floor was the
misnomer, but was popularized in the American Press of
and abakuá (Chicho Ibáñez). It rules out, perhaps
commercial part of the house, where Velazquez
the day. The actual battle was for the San Juan Heights.
unfairly, singers who accompanied themselves on the
maintained his offices and in somewhere around this
The heights were a north-south running elevation about
piano.[3]
floor horse carriages were kept too.
two kilometers east of Santiago de Cuba. The names
San Juan Hill and Kettle Hill were names given by the
Probably, this kind of life had been going on for some
Our hotel is situated on San Juan Hill the site of the US
Americans. This fight for the heights was the bloodiest
time, but it comes into focus when we learn about
cavalry charge lead by Theodore Roosevelt on July 1
and most famous battle of the Spanish– American War.
named individuals who left their marks on Cuban popular
1898. This action and defeat of the Spanish Naval
It was also the location of the greatest victory for the
music.
Forces by the US Navy brought the War of
Rough Riders as claimed by the press and its new
Independence to an end. There memorials to the troops
commander,
later
Trova musicians have played an important part in the
who fought on the hill.
President, Teddy Roosevelt. Overlooked then by the
evolution of Cuban popular music. Collectively, they
American Press, most of the heaviest fighting was done
have been prolific as composers, and have provided a
by cuban troops who took the highest point on the
start for many later musicians whose career lay in larger
heights.[3]
groupings. Socially, they reached every community in
64
the
future
Vice-President
and
the country, and have helped to spread Cuban music
throughout the world.[4]
We took a smoke belching 1950’ s American taxi back
to the hotel. Any further and we would have been
asphyxiated.
Taxi Driver - Santiago de Cuba
His Car - Santiago de Cuba
Santiago de Cuba to Guardalavaca
Day 16
The farm was bought by Catro’ s father in 1915 and
expanded to over 10000 hectares.
Finca Las Manacas – Birán
House Built for Fidel Castro - Finca Las Manacas –
Birán
We journey north to coastal town of Guardalavaca.
About an hour north of Santiago is Birán and near here
is the birthplace of Fidel Castro – Finca Las Manacas.
He
Escuela - Finca Las Manacas – Birán
built
a
village
including
workers
cottages,
cockfighting ring, telegraph and post office, general
store, hotel and the homes of the Castro (Ruz) family.
65
Expecting Fidel to return to the farm as the business
not to miss the spot. Inside you'll find Fidel's clothes,
lawyer his father built a house for him.
many photographs of Castro family, Ángel Castro's Ford
motorcar from 1918 and Fidel's childhood bed.
He never occupied the house and it was occupied by his
parents and siblings when the family home was burnt in
a fire started by his father smoking in bed. A replica of
the house has been built on the original site. Castro’ s
parents are buried in the grounds.
Bar and Telegraph Office - Finca Las Manacas –
Birán
Birán
Cock Fighting Ring - Finca Las Manacas - Birán
http://demo.bumblemap.com/article/cXKC12bCRHecZpx
27 installations placed on the site form a small town
QtpTdvg
(pueblito) and show life of Castro's family and young
Castro before he left it all to start a revolution. The
The village of Birán is mostly popular as the birthplace of
museum works every day except Monday, opening at
Dining Room - Finca Las Manacas – Birán
Fidel Castro Ruz who was born here on 13th August
9am and closing at 4pm with a break from noon to
Castro’ s father paid his workers in notes that could
1926. The Finca Las Manacas, better known as the
1:30pm. On Sunday museum works from 9am till noon.
only be spent in his store, thus effectively enslaving the
'Casa de Fidel' is situated south of Cueto, very close to
Tickets for the museum cost 10 Convertibles, while
workers.
the village of Birán. The estate was owned by Ángel
camera costs additional 10 Convertibles. To get to the
Castro, Fidel's father, since 1915 and includes a post
museum turn to the south about 7 kilometers far from
This was a worthwhile stop both for the opportunity to
office,
a
Cueto and follow the road to the south for another 7
visit Castro’ s birthplace and to see the structure of a
cockfighting ring. Castro family lived in several big
kilometers to get to the sugar mill called Central Loynaz
large farm community as it was before the revolution.
wooden houses surrounded by cedar trees. The estate
Hechevarría at Marcané. Continue to the east for
Castro’ s father had become very wealthy in less than
became a museum in 2002 and got a name of Sitio
another 8 kilometers to get to Birán and then follow the
fifty years. He had fought on the Spanish side during the
Historico de Birán in order to avoid accusations of
road for another 3 kilometers in the direction northeast to
Wars of Independence and migrated to Cuba early in the
Castro for his 'personality cult'. There are no signs
get to Finca las Manacas. Next to the entrance to the
20th
66
C with almost nothing.
telegraph,
store,
workers'
village
and
leading to this museum and you'll have to be very careful
estate you'll see the tombs of Fidel's parents, Lina Ruz
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%81ngel_Castro_y_Argi
10peso
and
and Ángel Castro.
z
photographer.
so
Mike
became
the
designated
There has been a camera charge at almost every place
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fidel_Castro
we have visited, usually 1 peso (CUC). Here it was
We continued on to the resort at Guardalavaca, arriving
in time for a late lunch. We spent the afternoon relaxing.
Friday 29-May-2009
Guardalavaca
Day 17
celebrating the 500th anniversary of the landing was built in
1992.
Visitor Transport - Cayo Bariay
We pay the site a visit during the morning and are driven
Swimming Pool – Guardalavaca
He first sighted land on
Fibreglass Taino Totem - Cayo Bariay
Nearby Guardalavaca is Cayo Bariay
where Christopher Columbus first landed
in Cuba 28th October 1492. A memorial
5th
October on the North coast of the
around the site is a horse carriage. A park historian points out
the features of the bay described in Columbus’ s journal as
evidence that this is the right place.
Dominican Republic after 2 months at sea.
Besides the memorial there is a reconstruction of two Taino
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christopher_Columbus
Indian houses reported in Columbus’ s journal. We are
entertained by dancers performing a traditional Indian dance.
How authentic this was is questionable given that the Indians
67
were
effectively
wiped
out
by
the
Spaniards several hundred years ago.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ta%C3%ADno
http://www.topuertorico.org/reference/taino.shtml
Our Transport - Cayo Bariay
Coastline - Cayo Bariay
Cayo Bariay
Memorial to 500 year Anniversary of Columbus’s
landing in 1492 - Cayo Bariay
Coastline - Cayo Bariay
Reconstructed Taino Dwelling - Cayo Bariay
68
‘Taino’ Sculpture - Cayo Bariay
‘Taino’ Dancers - Cayo Bariay
Visitor Participation - ‘Taino’ Dancers - Cayo
Bariay
Guardalavaca to Havana
Day 18
0500 start this morning for the 1¼ hour
drive to Holquin Airport for our flight back
to Havana. Unfortunately neither the
driver, Juan, nor our guide, Carlos, knows
exactly where it is and the direction signs
don’ t always help so we spend an extra
15 minutes seeking directions. We finally
reach the airport with less time in hand
than we think as the flight departure time
is 30 minutes earlier than we thought.
The 65 minute trip in a very old Boeing
737 is uneventful. Although a lot of the
Tee Shirt Store – Havana
Cigar Store – Havana
interior trim looks like it is about to fall off,
nothing does!
69
Aqueduct – Old Havana
Bride – Plaza de san Francisco – Old Havana
Havana
A mix up over pick up time for the transfer to the hotel has us
On the way to the hotel we stop at a cigar factory to pick up
standing around outside Havana Airport for 30 minutes and so
some discounted cigars which two members want to take home.
the time gained by the earlier flight is lost.
Police Commandants Headquarters – Old Havan
Couple Relaxing in the Park – Havana
On the Balcony – Havana
70
As it is Saturday the factory is not working and the factory tours
are not operating. Next we have to pick up a bag we have left in
Havana.
Ian and Stewart want to buy tee shirts and
After a final meeting with Raphael, Ian’ s contact in Havana,
have plans for last minute shopping this afternoon. I don’ t!
Carlos takes us to some shops near the
Raphael offers to drive Ian to a local Cuban shopping area to
fort. Prices were far too high and both left
see if there are any tee shirts. The shops are outside the normal
empty handed.
haunts of tourist and here Ian is successful. After revisiting the
shops we had visited this morning, Ian and I walk back to the
It is almost midday when we check into
hotel in time for Ian to shower and complete his packing before
the hotel Armadores de Santander. As Ian
we all go out for an early dinner at the El Meson de la Flota.
is leaving after dinner tonight and I will be
picked up at 0430 in the morning I have
By the time we return to the hotel we have time for a coffee
the single room tonight. Stewart and Mike
before Ian’ s transfer to the airport at 2115. For me it is time to
are on the same flight to Toronto tomorrow
finish packing and get some sleep before my 0430 pick up in
afternoon.
the morning.
We have a light final lunch with Carlos
Plaza de Armas - Old Havana
before we say goodbye to him. The others
Sunday 31-May-2009
Havana - Departure day
Day 19
Today is a travel day with a 0430 pickup from the hotel
settled in the place where today's capital, Santo
for the 0720 flight to Panama City and on to Santo
Domingo, is situated. During the following centuries,
Domingo in the Dominican Republic. A roundabout route
innumerable pirate raids gradually brought the export
between two cities about 1000km apart! I arrived in
trade to a standstill, but French colonialists who settled
Santo Domingo at about 1330.
in the west of the island managed to drive them off.
Thus, the first independent black republic of the world
http://borch.com/englisch/frame_neu/frameset.html
was founded: République d'Haiti. In 1844 the former
Spanish settlers declared their independence from Spain
On
December
5th
1492
Christopher
Columbus
and founded the Dominican Republic.
discovered the island of Hispaniola and founded "La
Mountains – Dominican Republic
Navidad", said to be the first European settlement in the
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dominican_Republic
New World. He became Viceroy of Hispaniola and
71
4 hour trip became very attractive. The result was that I
arrived in Cabarete before 1800 and I saw scenery along
the way that was different from the bus route as the taxi
travelled north along a toll road to the northern cost and
then west along the coast via Nagua. The bus travels
through the mountains and the towns of Puerto Plata
and Santiago. I will go that way on Thursday.
It was good to catch up with Ken and Elaine again. Their
third floor apartment looks out over the sparkling beach
Guard – Gas Station – Outside Santo Domingo
to the Atlantic Ocean and the reliable sea breezes that
I had planned to catch the public bus from Santo
build up during the day keep the apartment cool and
Domingo to Sosua on the Northern side of the island.
provide Ken with an excellent sailing venue.
However this would have meant I would not have arrived
at Ken and Elaine Brown’ s home until late in the
evening and a taxi for what turned out to be a less than a
72
Taxi Driver’s Son - Dominican Republic
Domincan Republic
Monday 01-June-2009
Cabarete
Day 20
http://www.activecabarete.com/
A quiet morning catching up with the diary notes
overlooking the sea and enjoying the sea breeze as it
builds.
Ken and Elaine are about to start building a new house
in the hills nearby. The 3 acre site on a hillside with
views to the mountains is covered with regrowth
vegetation, having been used to graze a dairy herd in
the past.
Garden – Ken & Elaine Brown’s – Cabarete
View from Ken & Elaine Brown’s Building Site
Atlantic Ocean - Ken & Elaine Brown’s – Cabarete
View from Ken & Elaine Brown’s Building Site
Here, between the Tropic of Cancer and the Equator, the
midsummer sun is from the North however the winter
sun is from the South. The house will face the views to
the south and the prevailing sun. The cooling breeze
blows all the time.
Work is expected to start tomorrow.
A late afternoon swim in the pool is very refreshing.
73
Tuesday 02-June-2009
Cabarete
Day 21
Another very leisurely start to the day; about 1100 Elaine
and I went for a walk along the beach. Easy walking on
the firm sand and very pleasant in the cooling sea
breeze that today is backed by quite a strong onshore
breeze. There is modest surf on the beach and beyond
the reef the waves are quite large. Most of the
windsurfers and kite surfers are enjoying the conditions
inside the reef a few have ventured outside the reef to
play with the larger, more regular waves.
On our way back we walked for a short distance along
Beach – Cabarete
Cabarete
Beachside Apartments – Cabarete
Wind Surfers – Cabarete
the road. Sheltered from the wind it was very hot in the
sun.
During the afternoon Ken and I drove to Puerto Plata
airport to pick up friends from Buenos Ares escaping the
southern winter on the beach here.
Swim before dinner completes another lazy day
74
Main Street – Cabarete
Wednesday 03-June-2009
Kite (surfer) – Cabarete
Ken & Elaine’s Apartment Block - Cabarete
Cabarete
Day 22
very colorful, but very repetitive and quality of the
http://dr1.com/travel/puertoplata/
carvings leaves a lot to be desired.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Felipe_de_Puerto_Plata
Surf – Cabarete Beach
Another relaxed day! A haircut in the morning and in the
afternoon a trip into Puerto Plata with Ken for a quick
look at the town and a district where Haitian artists and
Tree Roots – Sea Horse Ranch – Sosúa
Café - Sea Horse Ranch – Sosúa
woodcarvers live and ply their trade. Their paintings are
75
Puerto Plata was established around 1503 although
manicured gardens and lawns. The little restaurant is on
there is debate about the exact date. It has had a
the beach and has a large awning thatched with palm
The day ended with a very nice fish dinner at a nearby
colorful history. (see
fronds. Hurricanes are common in this region and the
restaurant. The restaurant was only about 400m away
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Felipe_de_Puerto_Plata)
large overhanging does not seem to have been
along the beach but we drove as rain was threatening.
designed to support the forces caused by a hurricane.
Our caution was justified as it bucketed down during
Ken and Elaine have done work on the restaurant at the
Sea Horse Ranch; a guarded, gated community, set in
dinner.
http://www.sea-horse-ranch.com/
Thursday 04-June-2009 Cabarete to Santo Domingo
Day 23
This morning I am returning to Santo Domingo. The locals
The bus was a very comfortable, air conditioned coach,
recommend the Metro Bus over Caribe Tours. Metro have less
however all the windows were curtained to keep out the sun so
services but it was stated they have newer buses. So, at 0810 I
the views of the mountains were blocked out most of the time.
am lining up at the Sosúa bus terminal to get a ticket. The cost
of the ticket is $US10 for the 4 hour trip to Santo Domingo.
Cathedral de Santa Maria - Santo Domingo
Christopher Columbus – Parque Colón Calle el Conde – Santo Domingo
76
Yesterday Ken and I had hoped to take a ride to the top of a hill
Calle el Conde – Santo Domingo
overlooking Puerto Plata and the surrounding scenery.
Unfortunately it was shrouded in cloud.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santo_Domingo
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights7-
This morning there is no cloud and the
http://dr1.com/travel/santodomingo/
parks_plazas.html#sights7-calle_el_conde
views would have been perfect.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santo_Domingo_de_Guzm%C3%A1
n
It has also been called the Calle de la Separacion, Clavijo and
http://www.frommers.com/destinations/santodomingo/333_indat
Real
tr.html
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/
Map http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/CZ_Map.html
City Walls - Santo Domingo
The oldest Commercial street in the city of Santo Domingo de
Guzmán runs directly through the Colonial Zone.It is named
after the Count of Peñalva. From here one can find their way
Cathedral de Santa Maria - Santo
Domingo
Calle las Damas - Santo Domingo
It is almost 1300 when we arrive at the
This is an excellent interactive map with notes about all the
and was closed to traffic many years ago. It is a 10 block
Metro Bus terminal in Santo Domingo and
colonial buildings in the Colonial Zone
cobblestone walk way filled with shops, restaurants, and all
it costs $US7 for the taxi to get to the
The hotel is situated on the Calle el Conde close to Plaza el
types of people (some street dogs also). People selling their
Hotel. The Hotel is situated in the colonial
Colon.
wares of many forms from the street and the many stores. It is
one of the most popular shopping areas for Dominicans and
quarter of Santo Domingo so it is an easy
walk to the historical sites.
around the Zone quite easily. This is a very busy thoroughfare
Calle El Conde/ Street of the Count
tourists alike. Its fun to sit on one of the benches along Conde
Street and watch the people passing by. You may even see a
77
street performer or some impromptu
walk heading along Calle el Conde towards the Rio Ozama.
This park, with its large trees and sometimes working fountains,
activity from some passer by that you will
is where most tours seem to start of the Colonial Zone.It is a
remember forever.
large open area with benches nestled under the large trees.
There always seems to be a breeze. This park is a hangout for
The street runs from the Puerta del Conde
tourists and locals alike. Since it is a high traveled tourist area
at its farthest west point continuing on to
there will be many vendors trying to sell you a CD of typical
Calle las Damas at its eastern end.
Dominican music, maybe a rosary or some other trinket. There
are always tour guides looking for guidees at a price. Taxi
drivers will ask if you need a taxi as you pass by their stands.
Maybe a shoeshine boy (limpia bota) will ask if you need a
shine or give you a little flower and then ask you to pay for it.
You could be followed by a local street dog; they can also spot
a tourist from a distance.
Puerto san Diego - Santo Domingo
After only one block I am in the Plaza de Colon. This is popular
park with many people wandering about, pigeons everywhere,
and in the centre is a statue of Christopher Columbus
surmounted by a pigeon. No one knows what Columbus looked
like as there are no contemporary pictures of him.
Beside the park on Calle el Conde are several restaurants and
cigar shops; on the opposite side is the Cathedral and is the
first cathedral in Western Hemisphere.
Parque Colón/ Columbus Park
Calle el Conde – Santo Domingo
There are plenty of Spanish Colonial
buildings to see in the Colonial Zone of
Santo Domingo so I start my afternoon
78
Iglesia Santa Bárbara - Santo Domingo
In the center of Colon Park one can see the huge statue of
parks_plazas.html#sights7-parks_plazas-parque_colon
Christopher Columbus who the park is names after. This bronze
statue dates back from 1897 and is the work of French sculptor
Gilbert. It shows a native Taino woman
Located directly in front of the Catedral Santa Maria (the oldest
Las Damas. This section of the Conde has a few restaurants
reaching to Columbus standing atop the
cathedral in all Las Americas). On the other side of the park is
where you can sit, enjoy a meal or a drink and people watch.
pillar in his arrogant glory.
Calle El Conde where one can walk the entire length of the
There is also a few tobacco stores where you can watch cigars
Colonial Zone and end up at the Independence Park or Calle
being rolled
and the roof was palm branches. If there was rain there
mahogany alter, the carved animals, the statues, the
was no service. At the end of 1537 the roof was rebuilt
high hammered silver alter, it is all so beautiful.
the way we see it today. The front is dated 1540 and
was completed in 1544. In 1547 the construction of the
tower was stopped because it brought attention to the
Fortress. The church was worked on and designed by so
many different people. This is why so many architectural
styles can be seen in one building. There are Roman
style arches and Gothic style vaults with some Baroque
ornaments thrown in for good measure. All this only
Alcázar de Colón - Santo Domingo
adds
Cathedral de Santa Maria/ The Cathedral of Santa Maria
to
the
buildings
originality
and
powerfully
dominating look. It is built with the coralline blocks, as
with many of the Colonial era structures, this building
has been able to withstand the ravaging of time and
churches.html#sights8-churches-cathedral_santa_maria
humans.
The
building
has
been
used
as
Plaza Espania - Santo Domingo
a
slaughterhouse and a prison. It was a wine and provision
Catedral Metropolitana Santa María de la Encarnación.
storage facility used by the pirates when it was
This, the first cathedral in the Americas originally was a
ransacked in 1586 by Sir Francis Drake.
hut made of royal palms in 1514. It now takes up an
When you enter the cathedral you will feel a calmness
entire block.
come over you. Seeing the interior for the first time is a
Diego Columbus set the first stone and since then many
real
additions and changes have been made to the original
overpowering and yet it has such a reverent feeling.
structure.
the
There are many different chapels inside the large
cathedral but left to search for gold in Mexico. This
structure. The stained glass is magnificent. The
Spanish
workmen
began
building
experience.
It
is
so
quiet,
relaxing,
and
second church was much better, it was made of wood
79
It holds the mausoleums of some archbishops including
On the grounds of the Alcázar is located the Puertas de
with the church being constructed in 1537. The first
Geraldini Bastidas. It holds the tombstones of Simón
San Diego also called Puerta de la Mar/The Door of the
building was made of royal palm. Later, in 1537, it was
Bolívar. There is a painting dates from 1523 of La Virgen
Sea. This gate is the original gate of the original old city
rebuilt in stone (the blocks were quarried from this very
de la Altagracia. It is even said that Columbus remains
built in 1549 as protection for the city against an attack
site as were the stone blocks for many monuments and
were kept there until they were moved to the Faro a
coming from the river.
buildings of the era). It was always a simple church.
Colón.
Heavily damaged by the hurricane in 1591, then by the
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights8-churches.html
earthquakes of 1673 and 1684. Each time it was
repaired something new was added until it is what it is
today. The church is a single long building with five
distinct sections as can be seen from the outside of this
building. The bunker for the fort is included in this
building. The ceiling is still covered with the original
bricks. When the fort was built both structures were
incorporated together. This is a very unique thing to
have a fort and church entwined. The church boasts to
be the place where Juan Pablo Duarte, The Father of
the Country, was baptized.
View of River from Alcázar de Colón - Santo
Domingo
It is a short walk from the church of Santa Barbara to the
Continuing on along Calle el Conde I descend the steps
Further upriver is the church of Santa Barbara. I had
Alcázar de Colón built by Columbus’ s son Diego when
to the outside of the old city wall a walk up river past the
noticed the fortifications driving into town in the taxi. The
he became the colony’ s governor in 1509.
Floating Bridge and Puerto San Diego. It was here that I
church was not open.
came to grief, tripping over a paving stone and causing
some bruising to my right hand.
Alcázar de Colón
Iglesia Santa Bárbara/ Church of Santa Barbara
http://www.frommers.com/destinations/santodomingo/A2
Puerta de San Diego/ Gate of St. James
4431.html
churches.html#sights8-churches-santa_barbara
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights6walls_gates.html#sights6-walls_gates-puerta_san_diego
The most outstanding structure in the old city is the
This is one of the oldest churches with a fort in the
Alcázar, a palace built for Columbus's son, Diego, and
colonial period. The church and fort were built separately
his wife, who was also niece to Ferdinand, king of Spain.
Diego became the colony's governor in 1509, and Santo
80
Domingo rose as the hub of Spanish commerce and
be the seat of the viceroy court. Diego and his wife Maria
Americas. It was built from 1948, with plans drawn by J.-
culture in America. For more than 60 years, this coral
de Toledo lived here until 1523, when he was recalled to
L. Gloeave.[2]
limestone structure on the bluffs of the Ozama River was
Spain. Other relatives lived here for decades afterwards.
the center of the Spanish court, entertaining such
This building was abandoned in 1770 and turned into a
Inaugurated in 1992,[1] when the remains of Columbus
distinguished visitors as Cortés, Ponce de León, and
garbage dump. Cave-ins in 1809 and 1835 left the
were transported, it was funded by the Latin America
Balboa. The nearly two dozen rooms and open-air
building in ruins.
states and cost several million dollars.[3]
loggias are decorated with paintings, period tapestries,
and 16th-century antiques.
[4]
The
monument is both a mausoleum and a museum and
It was restored by highly skilled stone cutters, with
contains other objects, including a boat from Cuba and
added
the Colombian jewelry. Its architecture is cross-shaped
refinements
made
during
several
later
restorations. All rebuilding was done to remain as faithful
and represents the Christianization of America.[2]
as possible to the original construction and decor. Not
one single nail was used in its construction. It opened to
the public on Columbus Day in 1957.
The palace sits in a large open square, Plaze de Armas
or Plaza de Espana, Always some activity happening
here. A nice place to be. Looks beautiful at night with the
lights on. It now houses a collection of furniture and
household items from this period
Puerto san Diego - Santo Domingo
Alcázar de Colón/ Columbus Palace
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights2.html#sights2-
Across the river is the Columbus Lighthouse - Faro a
Colon; a massive memorial to the 500th anniversary of
Cathedral de Santa Maria - Santo Domingo
Columbus’ s landing in the New World.
By this time I am tiring after a fairly long day and decide
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Colombus_Lighthouse
it is time to return to the Calle el Conde for a drink and a
alcazar_de_colon
bite to eat after which I returned to the hotel for a siesta.
The Columbus Lighthouse (Faro a Colon in Spanish) is
A 22 room stone home built by Columbus son, Don
a controversial[1] monument located in Santo Domingo,
In the evening I head back to the park for a cheap dinner
Diego and his wife. (Colon is the Spanish word for
Dominican Republic. It was erected as tribute of
and beer. It was an early start this morning and by 2030
Columbus). They resided here during his term as
Christopher Columbus, 500 years after he reached the
I was ready for bed.
viceroy. This fortress was built during the early 1500s to
81
Friday 05-June-2009
Santo Domingo
Day 24
de la Altagracia. The interior of the Santuario is bright and
the Colony, the poor and sick were cared for following the
rather restrained.
precepts of the Catholic religion in the San Nicolas de Bari
Hospital.
In 1586 the hospital was badly damaged due to a pirate’ s
attack. During the XVIII century the hospital cared for ill soldiers
and so its name was changed to Hospital Militar (Military
Hospital).
Between 1795 and 1865 the social and political conditions
under which the hospital had to operate made running the
hospital a tremendously hard task. Today, the physical ruins of
the Hospital San Nicolás de Bari –
built in typical Spanish
colonial style-, with thick fortress like walls and stone floors
Ruinas del Templo I Hospital Desan Nicolas de Bari Santo Domingo
Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la
Altagracia - Santo Domingo
This morning I start my walk heading north
along Calle Arzobispo Merino towards the
ruins of the Monasterio de San Francisco.
Along the way I come upon the Ruinas del
Templo I Hospital Desan Nicolas de Bari
built between 1503 and 1508. Next door is
Santuario Arquidioceano Nuesta Señora
82
echoes a place where rustic beds were used to care for
patients.
Ruinas del Templo I Hospital Desan Nicolas de Bari
The San Nicolás de Bari Hospital operated for over 350 years. It
http://www.medigraphic.com/pdfs/gaceta/gm-2006/gm061m.pdf
finally disappeared during the second part of the XIX century
after undergoing severe financial restrictions and lack of
The first hospital services in America were created in the
supplies and personnel that in the end hampered its work.
Dominican Republic -formerly known as the Española- by a
black woman at the beginning of the Conquest. In 1503 fray
Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Altagracia / Chapel de Altagracia
Nicolás de Ovando, second governor of the Española built what
nowadays would be considered a hospital and named it
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights8-churches.html#sights8-
Hospital San Nicolás de Bari (Saint Nicholas Hospital). During
churches-iglesia_altagracia
A tribute of love, recognition and eternal
memory!
The Virgin of Altagracia is the protector saint of the Dominican
Republic, celebrated yearly on January 21. More information
on Alragracia.
Ruinas del Monasterio de San Francisco - Santo Domingo
Ruinas del Monasterio de San Francisco
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights2.html#sights2Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Altagracia – Calle Hostos Santo Domingo
ruins_monastary
Sitting atop a hill, surrounded by an iron fence sits almost 2
blocks of buildings in ruins. Looking majestic and eerie. If only
these lonely bricks could tell their story.
Church of the Jesuit Fathers and
National Pantheon - Santo Domingo
Rebuilt in the 1930's in an Elizabethan
These, most important ruins of the Americas, was the first
Gothic style. The wall of this church was
monastery in the Americas. The building was started by Nicolás
once shared with the Hospital San Nicolás
de Ovando in 1509 and was completed in 1560. Built on a hill
de Bari, the ruins that run along side this
overlooking the city it was, and is, a true marvel. It was divided
church. Inside, the decoration is strongly
into three parts, the Convento/ Convent, the Chapels (Capilla
influenced by Arab and Spanish art. Some
de la Tercera Orden de los Franciscano, the Capilla de Garay
of the art includes the Sol de Oro / Sun of
also known as the Chapel of Maria de Toledo, Diego Colons'
Gold, a model of the star that announced
Christ's birth, and a beautiful altar.
wife), and San Francisco el viejo.
Ruinas del Monasterio de San Francisco - Santo Domingo
83
Over the largest part of the monasteries
surrounding the building. Some say that these were to hold
doorway is the Cordón de la Orden
prisoners, while others say they are places where excavations
Franciscana, the coat of arms of the order,
were done. There is also a deep well on site. In the past the
carved into the stone surrounding the
inhabitants were lunatics and friars, now the sole inhabitants of
arched doorway. There is a cross and a
the building are the pigeons and ghosts. The cooing of the
bust of Padre Billini. It was built on the
birds, or maybe it be the moaning from the people of the past,
outside in Renaissance style and the
add to the eerie feel of the place. In the evening the place
inside in Gothic.
seems to heighten its magnitude and mysteriousness. The
lights shining on these abandoned and falling stone walls give it
At one time this place was used as a
an immense forlorn and desolate feeling. It is also a great place
military fort and named La Casa del
to sit with your significant other on the steps. There are usually
Diablo/ The house of the Devil. It has also
not many people in the area which adds the desolate feeling.
been called El basurero del Monasterio/
The Garbage Can of the Monastery. In
At times there are special events held here. There may be a
1881,
concert or school group doing something.
Francisco
Billini
changed
the
Columbus’s Ships - Museo de las Casas Reales - Santo
Domingo
building into a lunatic asylum. If you look
on the inside there are still remnants of
chains bolted to the walls where they tied
the crazies
It was taken by the Pirate Francis Drake
(for more information on Drake) during his
very destructive raids on the city in 1586
Nature also attacked the monastery with
two devastating earthquakes in 1673 and
Museo de las Casas Reales - Santo Domingo
1751.
It is a very humbling sight to behold.
Sitting atop its hill, looming. It's menacing,
eerie feeling multiplied when you walk
close and see the holes in the land
84
Calle las Damas/ Street of the Ladies
Columbus Lighthouse - Santo Domingo
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights7parks_plazas.html#sights7-parks_plazas-calle_las_damas
Originally named Calle de la Fortaleza /
Capilla de los Remedios/ Chapel of Remedies
The street of Strength.or Fortress when it
Las Casas Reales/ The Royal Houses (picture-new window)
was made in 1502, it is the oldest street in
the Americas. With the arrival of Diego
churches-capilla_remedios
Columbus and his wife, the niece of King,
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights2.html#sights2alcazar_de_colon
doña María de Toledo and other ladies,
Francisco Davila, whom at this time was the richest man on the
the city was trying to attain a little class. It
island, built this small chapel. It was his private chapel and was
These two adjacent and connecting buildings were constructed
is said to have been named for the Ladies-
to house the remains of his family. Damaged many times
at the same time between 1503 and 1520.
in-Waiting that strolled up and down its
throughout history (by a lightning strike in 1853 and a hurricane
north to south running length. During its
in 1930) and has always been rebuilt. The interior structure
The building on the right is the Palace of the Governor. The
history the street had many names, most
holds a small temple in the shape of a cross with a vaulted brick
other building held the seat of the Royal Court/ Palace of Royal
of the names came about because of a
ceiling. The buildings architectural style is Mudejar, created by
Audiences on the second floor and the ground floor held the
name of a building built along its path.
the Muslims. The outside of the chapel has a bell tower made of
General Accountancy. Here can be seen a replica of a colonial
Finally, the street was given its historical
brick where the families' coat of arms used to be. This is where
court room and many exhibits.
name back and the name remains to this
the body of Francisco Davila is interred.
day. This street is a nice walk with not
many cars passing along its stone path.
The arched gothic style windows on the second floor where the
Museo de las Casas Reales (Museum of the Royal Houses)
Surrounded by the beautifully restored
Royal Court was held gave a perfect view of the Sun Dial so
they always knew what time it was.
buildings on both sides of the street and
http://www.frommers.com/destinations/santodomingo/A24439.ht
the minimal cars that pass. One may feel
ml
like they are among the privelaged people
There are Isabelic decorations and white porcelain brick and
much more beautiful architectural styles to be seen in this
from times past that used to take their
Through artifacts, tapestries, maps, and re-created halls,
powerful building. The interior courtyard is beautiful.
afternoon stroll along this historic street of
including a courtroom, this museum traces Santo Domingo's
the colony.
history from 1492 to 1821. Gilded furniture, arms and armor,
Here can be seen the coat of arms of Spain, a beautiful
I next make my way to the Calle Las
and other colonial artifacts make it the most interesting museum
staircase where underneath is a large globe of the world with a
Damas and the Museum of Royal Houses.
of Old Santo Domingo. It contains replicas of the Niña, the
horse on his hind lags ready to jump over it. Here is written in
Nearby is a charming little chapel the
Pinta, and the Santa Maria, and one exhibit is said to hold some
Latin: Non sufficit orbis (The world is not large enough). more
Capilla de Nuestra Señora de los
of Columbus's ashes. In addition to pre-Columbian art you can
information on the museum
Remedios.
see the main artifacts of two galleons sunk in 1724 on their way
from Spain to Mexico, along with remnants of another 18th-
Before the Royal Houses were built the Royal Court would meet
century Spanish ship, the Concepción.
in the City Hall building. This is where the jail was located,
85
across from the Plaza de Armas. They
Church of the Jesuit Fathers and National Pantheon
held their sessions in one of the halls of
the Atarazanas.
fort extended from the eastern to the western bank of the
Ozama River/Rio Ozama. The Governor Frey Nicolas de
http://www.planetware.com/santo-domingo/church-of-the-jesuit-
Ovando, the founder of the city of Santo Domingo, is the one
fathers-and-national-pantheon-dom-nc-pant.htm
who personally chose this spot for this military instillation. It was
built by the labor of the African and Taino slaves as was most
(Local Name: Iglesia de los Padres Jesuitas y Panteon
of the buildings of this era. Its strategic location gives it a perfect
Nacional) A Neoclassical-Renaissance structure built in the
view or anyone gaining entry to the city. It overlooks both the
mid-18th C as a Jesuit church, the Iglesia de los Padres was
Ozama River and the Caribbean Sea from high on its steep
restored and converted into the National Pantheon in 1956.
bank. This is where was witnessed all the departures of all the
great expeditions to other regions of the Americas. It was built
During the church's history it has been used as a tobacco
to defend the city against attack by marauder and pirate, which
warehouse, housing for the San Fernando seminary, public
was very common happening at this time. The perfect
offices and a theater for independence fighters in 1860.
placement of the fort made it such a formidable stronghold that
it was never seized by force, even though many attempts were
It is now the resting place for leading national heroes, including
made.
Duarte, Sánchez and Mella.
It is considered to be "The Axis of the Conquest". It was built by
The dictator Trujillo intended to be buried in the Pantheon;
the Spaniards after they finished exploring the entire island.
ironically, it is the remains of his assassins who are found here.
Master builder Gómez Garcia de Varela was responsible for the
Statue of Fray Anton de Montesinos Santo Domingo
Continuing south along Calle Las Damas I
visit the National Pantheon before walking
along the street past colonial buildings
now occupied by government ministries,
the French Embassy and a 5 star Accor
hotel.
My objective is the Forteleza Ozama.
tower. Then came the shooting platforms and the main
The Fortress of Santo Domingo also known as Fortelaza
defensive fort. As time passed new facilities were added and
Ozama
old ones modified as needed.
The walls encompassing the fort are three meters thick except
fortelaza_ozama
the one that borders the river. This wall is only one meter thick.
This was done so that if there was an explosion it would
(Ozama is the Taino word for navigable waters or wetlands). is
explode outward to the river restricting the possible damage.
considered to be one of the oldest of its kind on the entire
The second wall built when the port was put in is to keep the
American continent. It was built between 1502 and 1508. This
86
building of this fort in all its stages. First was the erection of the
water from the river out. The dredge that
Mantesinos. Until now I have been in the Colonial Zone an area
trees where you can sit and relax in the shade. There is a
was taken out of the port was used to
kept fairly clean for the benefit of tourists.
plaque commemoration the poet in the park.
The massive statue is across the busy harbor side road and it is
http://www.cemep.edu.do/files/mural/Proyecto%20Sociales/Artu
filthy and neglected. Obviously tourists are expected to view it
ro%20Pellerano%20Castro/Arturo%20Pellerano0.htm
make the land on which the highway now
runs.
It is very cool inside the building because
from afar. My wanderings had taken me to the edge of the
of its thick walls. This makes the climb to
Colonial Zone in a number of directions and beyond the edge
the top of the tower a pleasant experience
the city was filthy with rubbish everwhere.
even when done during the mid-day heat.
All was made of coral rock which is a good
moisture absorber. The cement was made
of gypsum, clay, lime and the blood of
animals and became stronger as time
went on.
This fort was used as a prison up to the
1960s when it was restored and opened to
the public. The local Colonial Zone police
Capilla de los Remedios - Santo Domingo
station is directly inside the gate where all
Statue of Fray Anton de Montesinos.
the criminal element of the Colonial Zone
are taken and held temporarily.
There are magnificent views of the city,
harbor and in the distance the Columbus
Lighthouse from the top of the tower. After
inspecting the fort I continue south to the
Plaza Pellerano Castro. This is a quiet
pretty little park overlooking the Caribbean
Sea. Steps lead from this park down to the
port below. However I continue on around
the streets to the Statue of Fray Anton de
Weapons - Museo de las Casas Reales - Santo Domingo
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights3.html#sights2-montesino
Plaza Pellerano Castro
Montesinos was one of the first to inhabit the Convento e Iglesia
de los Dominicos/Monastery and Church of the Dominican
parks_plazas.html#Plaza_Pellerano_Castro
Order. He is known for his historic defense of the Indians. He
courageously spoke against the abuses done to the Indians in a
This nice quite park is named after the poet Arturo Bautista
famous sermon made in 1511.
Pellerano Castro born in Curazao March 13, 1865 and died in
Santo Domingo May 5, 1916. there are benched located under
The statue measuring 150 feet (30 meters) is seen at the
entrance to the port at Rio Ozama and the Santo Domingo
87
Harbor along the Malecon.This gigantic
Parque Duarte
statue was donated to the Dominican
Republic by the Mexican Government
while Lopez Portillo was president of
parks_plazas.html#sights7-parks-duarte
Mexico. There is a small plaza in front of
the statue and is a nice place to start your
This calm park is a nice place to sit away from all the movement
walk down the Malecon along the sea.
at Colon Park. There are benches where you can sit under a
tree and relax.This square was also known as Anacaona Plaza,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antonio_de_Mo
Santo Domingo Plaza and Plaza of the Ex-Convict Dominico. It
ntesinos_(Dominican_friar)
is rich in history. Haitian separatists fought for independence
here in 1843. It was also the site of bullfights. The statue of
Tower - Fortelaza Ozama - Santo Domingo
Duarte in the center of the park was erected in 1930. The park
faces the Capilla Dominicos. In the night this place is over run
by young people partying, drinking and listening to music. Very
interesting to observe.
Juan Pablo Duarte
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Juan_Pablo_Duarte
Juan Pablo Duarte y Díez (January 26, 1813 – July 15, 1876)
was a 19th century visionary and liberal thinker along with
Francisco del Rosario Sanchez and Ramón Matías Mella, is
Walls - Fortelaza Ozama - Santo Domingo
By now I had been walking for over three hours and it was time
to return to the hotel for a short siesta before setting out to
explore some of the other sites.
Cannon - Fortelaza Ozama - Santo
Domingo
88
Duarte Plaza
widely considered the architect of the Dominican Republic and
its independence from Haitian rule in 1844.
Dominican Church and Convent
Iglesia y Convento Regina Angelorum/ Church and Convent of
Regina Angelorum
more appropriate temple on land donated by Maria de Arana.
Salomé Ureña. Since 1916 it has been occupied by the
Mercedarias nuns.
View of Port - Fortelaza Ozama - Santo Domingo
The first female poets in the New World, Leonor de Ovando and
Plaza Pellerano Castro - Santo Domingo
Elvira de Mendoza, lived here also.
Independence square
The original structure was replaced with the building that is
El Conde gate
Parque Duarte - Santo Domingo
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights8churches.html#sights8-churches-
and was completed in 1722. It is one of the best preserved in
convento_iglesia_los_dominicos
the
Dominican
nuns
Puerta El Conde/ Door of the Count
the city. And also one of the most beautiful with its gothic style
This is the first building made exclusively
for
there now. This newer temple, had its foundation laid in 1714
(monjas
dominicanas). When these six sisters
arrived in 1560 there was only one
convent in the city, that of Santa Clara,
belonging to the Franciscan sisters.These
six Dominican nuns first place of worship
was nothing more than a plain room. By
1567 they had begun construction on a
vaults and a ornamentation of the 17th century. Inside this
beautiful church is a wall of silver near one of its alters.
walls_gates.html#sights6-walls_gates-puerta_conde
In December 1795 the nuns had to emigrate to Havana (Cuba)
The Latin inscription on the stones of Puerta del Conde reads:
because of the Treaty of Basel. The surviving nuns return to
"ìDulce et Decori est pro patria moriî" translated "It is indeed
the country in 1820. In 1866 President Cabral turned the
sweet and honorable to die for the fatherland."
building over to Father Billini (his remains are located here) and
he started the School San Luis de Gonzaga. The convent was
reconstructed and turned into an institute for the ladies of
89
sea and included the Puerta de la Misericordia.
reclaiming their Independence. Because of this the official name
was changed to the Puerta de 27 de Febrero even though the
Dominican people still call it Puerta el Conde. This gate
symbolizes the ideals of freedom of the Dominican Republic.
Within the guarded gate is the Parque Independencia where is
located the Altar de la Patria/Altar of the Nation which is the
mausoleum for the founding fathers.
There is a 32 point star in the sidewalk near this gate. It is said
that all points in the Country are measured from this point.
Iglesia y Convento Regina Angelorum - Santo Domingo
Altar of the Nation – Independence
Square - Santo Domingo
Named after El Conde de Peñalve/ Count
of Peñalva, Bernardo de Meneses y
Bracamonte. He was the Captain General
of the walled city of Santo Domingo. He
saved the city, along with his men, from
Puerta El Conde - Santo Domingo
the British invaders led by Admiral William
Altar de la Patria/ Altar of the Nation also known as Tumba de
Penn and General Robert. Venables. The
Count
ordered
the
wall
erected
,
completed in 1655. Fort San Genaro, the
Altar of the Nation – Independence Square - Santo
Domingo
los Padres de la Patria/ Tomb of the Patriarchs of the Country
or more simply the National Mausoleum
original name of this fort, was to defend
On February 27, 1844 Puerta del Conde became a national
the city from a sneak attack by land. The
symbol. It was here that the heroes of the country overtook the
wall that this gate is built into ran to the
Haitian government and retook the city for their own thus
altar_patria
90
Here is where the bodies of the Founding
walls at Parque Independencia with the National Guard
Built in 1976 made of white marble it is a fitting memorial for
Fathers, Juan Pablo Duarte, Francisco del
standing at attention on guard.
these the heroes of the country. Inside is the Eternal Flame and
Rosario Sanchez, and Ramon Matias
there are usually some flower wreaths set around the statues.
Mella, are interred. It is located within the
Saturday 06-June-2009
To Havana via Panama City
Day 25
0610 departure from the hotel to catch planes back to Havana and then a very long wait in the airport at Havana for the flight to Santiago de Chile! Hardly a day to remember1
Sunday 07-June-2009
Havana to Santiago de Chile
Day 26
The flight to Santiago departed Havana at 0255 with very few
It was about midday when I checked into the Hostal Amazonas
passengers on board so I had two seats and managed a
and after a shower a short rest I was OK to head out for a walk
reasonable sleep, actually missing breakfast.
and some exercise climbing to the lookout on top of the hill in
the Municipal Park. It is 4-500 steps to the top and the hill side
is covered with grand structures from another age. It is cold and
foggy today but if is better tomorrow I will go back and get some
photos.
There was a group of demonstrators encamped on the river
bank when we were here three weeks ago. They are still there,
however the river has risen and they are attempting to sandbag
their camp against the rising river. It will eventually wash the
camp away.
Tore Telefonica – Plaza Italia –
Santiago de Chile
Sand Bagged Protestors Huts - Santiago de Chile
91
Pio Nono – Bellavista - Santiago de Chile
Tonight a police water cannon arrives as I cross the bridge on
my way to dinner. The demonstrators are a bit noisy below the
other side of the bridge. I keep walking. When I return
everything is quiet and the water cannon has gone.
Advertisements – Bellavista Santiago de Chile
Monday 08-June-2009
I make it an early night after last night’ s flight.
Santiagode Chile to Auckland
Day 27
It was cold again this morning so I spent
camera would not work and I abandoned the project and went
I walked back with my loot to check out and make
the morning catching up on some diary
into some department stores where sales were in progress. I
arrangements for a transfer to the airport tonight. I also made a
notes and getting things together for the
was interested in parkas for the trip to Antarctica. Some were
booking for Ben, Connor and I for December 31 – January 1 as
flight home.
being sold for 50% off and I could have got them for Ben and
the Hostal is good, in a good location and cheap. Tried the
Connor for about $30 each but I could not be sure of the size
camera again and it worked so I don’ t know what the problem
By midday the sun was shining weakly
and they were far to bulky to carry home. However I did buy
was – I will need to have it serviced when I get home.
through the fog and I set off to get photos
quite a nice one for myself for about $70.
of the Municipal Park. When I got there my
92
Having
made
all
the
necessary
arrangements I went out again for a late
lunch. I dined once again at the Venezia Restaurant in Bella
Vista and ate a delicious steak.
Tuesday 09 - Wednesday 10-June-2009
Arrive Auckland 0400 Auckland to Melbourne
Day 28 - 29
93
Group Members – Cuba
94
Ian Marsh
Juan
Carlos
Jim Russell
Mike Selvadurai
Stewart Davies
Web References – Santiago de Chile, Cuba and the Dominican Republic
http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edificio_Diego_Portales
Chile
Copper Mining
http://www.mbendi.com/indy/ming/cppr/sa/cl/p0005.htm#Facilities
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codelco
Santiago de Chile
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santiago,_Chile
http://www.mundoandino.com/Chile/Santiago
http://www.chilecontact.com/en/sugerencia/tourist_attractions.php
http://www.chilecontact.com/turismo/en_tour/Santiago-City-tours-12.html
http://www.santiago.cl/enjoy/top_dest.htm
Bernado O’ Higgins
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernardo_O'Higgins
Cerro San Cristobal
http://www.letsgochile.com/locations/central-zone/rm/cerro-sancristobal-san-cristobal-hill
Edificio Diego Portales
Hostal Amazonas Santiago
http://www.hostalrioamazonas.cl/
La Moneda
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Moneda
http://www.tourismchile.com/guide/santiago/articles/910
Mercado Central
http://www.allsantiago.com/centro/stodom.html
Museum of Pre Columbian Art
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Museo_Chileno_de_Arte_Precolombino
Transandine Railway
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transandine_Railway
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rack_railway#Abt
Vína san Esteban
www.vse.cl
95
Cuba
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Cuba
Birán
http://demo.bumblemap.com/article/cXKC12bCRHecZpxQtpTdvg
Bayamo City
http://www.cuba-junky.com/granma/bayamo-home.htm
Bay of Pigs
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bay_of_Pigs_Invasion
Fiesta Campesina
http://www.roughguides.com/website/travel/destination/content/default
.aspx?titleid=150&xid=idh352121424_0310
Peninsular de Zapata
http://www.roughguides.com/website/travel/Destination/content/defaul
t.aspx?titleid=150&xid=idh252105048_0306
Playa Larga
Cueva de los Peces
96
Camagüey
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camag%C3%BCey
http://www.cuba-junky.com/camaguey/camaguey-city-home.htm
Iglesia de Neustra Señora de la Merced
http://www.planetware.com/camaguey/iglesia-de-nuestra-senora-dela-merced-cub-ca-cin.htm
Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Soledad
http://www.planetware.com/camaguey/iglesia-de-nuestra-senora-dela-soledad-cub-ca-cins.htm
Ignacio Agramonte
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignacio_Agramonte
Parque Ignacio Agramonte
http://www.planetware.com/camaguey/parque-ignacio-agramontecub-ca-cpi.htm
http://www.planetware.com/cienfuegos/teatro-tomas-terry-cub-cictt.htm
Plaza del Carmen
http://www.adelante.cu/english/index.php/camag/37-province/458-
Cuban Prehistory
plaza-del-carmen-an-architectural-jewel-of-camagueey
http://www.cubaarqueologica.org/document/aacoscu.pdf
Plaza San Juan de Dios
Fidel Castro
http://www.planetware.com/camaguey/plaza-san-juan-de-dios-plaza-
del-padre-olallo-cub-ca-cps.htm
Ángel Castro y Argiz
Che Guevara
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%81ngel_Castro_y_Argiz
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Che_Guevara
Havana
Christopher Columbus
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christopher_Columbus
Castillo de los Tres Santos Reyes Magnos del Morro
Cienfuegos
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morro_Castle_(fortress)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cienfuegos
Convento de San Francisco de Asis
http://www.oldhavanaweb.com/churches_and_convents/convento_de_
Tomás Terry
san_francisco_de_asis.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom%C3%A1s_Terry
Great Theater of Havana
Teatro Tomás Terry
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Theatre_of_Havana
97
History
http://www.cubaheritage.org/articles.asp?lID=1&artID=361
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/cuba/havana/sights/370327
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Havana
Plaza de la Catedral
Hotel Armadores de Santander
http://www.oldhavanaweb.com/squares/plaza_de_la_catedral_cathedr
http://www.hotelarmadoresdesantander.info/
al_square.html
Hotel Inglaterra in Old Havana
Plaza de San Francisco
http://www.hotelinglaterracuba.com/
http://www.oldhavanaweb.com/squares/plaza_de_san_francisco_san_
francisco_square.html
Iglesia de la Catedral (Cathedral Church)
Plaza de la Revolución – Havana
http://www.oldhavanaweb.com/churches_and_convents/iglesia_de_la
_catedral_cathedral_church.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plaza_de_la_Revoluci%C3%B3n
Museum of the Revolution
Russian Orthodox cathedral consecrated in Havana
http://www.cuba-museums-
http://www.eni.ch/featured/article.php?id=2389
guide.com/cuba_museums/museum_revolution.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Museum_of_the_Revolution
Santa Clara
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Granma_(yacht)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Clara,_Cuba
National Capitol building (el Capitolio)
Battle of Santa Clara
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Capitolio
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Santa_Clara
Parque John Lennon
Che Guevara Mausoleum
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Lennon_Park
98
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mausoleo_Che_Guevara
Castillo de San Pedro del Morro
Villa Clara Baseball
http://www.planetware.com/santiago-de-cuba/castillo-de-san-pedrohttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Villa_Clara_(baseball)
del-morro-cub-sc-scsp.htm
http://www.cubaheadlines.com/2009/05/21/17284/cuban_baseball_ch
Cementerio de Santa Ifigenia
ampionship_villa_clara_returns_home_unbeaten_baseball_play_off.ht
ml
http://www.planetware.com/santiago-de-cuba/cementerio-de-santaifigenia-cub-sc-scs.htm
http://worldbbtoday.blogspot.com/2009/06/la-habana-tops-villa-clarafor-cuban.html
Santiago de Cuba
Cespedes Park
http://www.santiagodecubacity.org/en/parks-a-streets/cespedespark.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santiago_de_Cuba
http://www.santiago-de-cuba.net/sights.htm
Cathedral "Nuestra Señora de la Asunción
http://www.santiagodecubacity.org/en/architecture/cathedral-
Antonio Maceo
asuncion.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antonio_Maceo_Grajales
Museum Casa de Diego Velázquez
Battle of San Juan Hill
http://www.santiagodecubacity.org/en/architecture/museumdiego-velazquez.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_San_Juan_Hill
http://www.eyewitnesstohistory.com/roughriders.htm
Cuartel Moncada / Museo Historico 26 de Julio
Casa de la Trova
http://www.planetware.com/santiago-de-cuba/cuartel-moncadamuseo-historico-26-de-julio-cub-sc-scm.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trova
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moncada_Barracks
99
Plaza de la Revolución
Plaza Mayor
http://www.planetware.com/santiago-de-cuba/plaza-de-la-revolucion-
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plaza_Mayor,_Trinidad,_Cuba
cub-sc-spr.htm
Sugar Mill Valley
Zunzun Restaurant
http://www.periodico26.cu/english/features/mar2009/trinidad041109.ht
http://www.cuba-junky.com/santiago-de-cuba/santiago-de-cuba-city-
ml
paladars.htm
http://www.cubaheadlines.com/2009/04/13/16722/sugar_mill_valley_tr
inidad_cuba.html
Taino Indians
Viñales
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ta%C3%ADno
http://www.topuertorico.org/reference/taino.shtml
http://www.cubajunky.com/pinar-del-rio/vinales-home.htm
Trinidad de Cuba
Dominican Republic
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trinidad,_Cuba
http://www.gocuba.ca/en/destination_trinidad.asp
http://www.dtcuba.com/PoloInfo.aspx?pc=9&lng=2
Club Amigo Costsur
http://www.cubahotelbookings.com/hotel-view.asp?lID=1&hID=289
Palacio Brunet / Museo Romantico
http://www.planetware.com/trinidad/palacio-brunet-museo-romanticocub-ss-tpb.htm
100
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dominican_Republic
Santo Domingo
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santo_Domingo
http://dr1.com/travel/santodomingo/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santo_Domingo_de_Guzm%C3%A1n
http://www.frommers.com/destinations/santodomingo/333_indattr.html
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/
Alcázar de Colón
http://www.frommers.com/destinations/santodomingo/A24431.html
Cabarete
http://www.activecabarete.com/
Sea Horse Ranch
http://www.sea-horse-ranch.com/
Church of the Jesuit Fathers and National Pantheon
http://www.planetware.com/santo-domingo/church-of-the-jesuit-fathers-andnational-pantheon-dom-nc-pant.htm
Map
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/CZ_Map.html
Alcázar de Colón/ Columbus Palace
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights2.html#sights2alcazar_de_colon
Altar de la Patria/ Altar of the Nation
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights4.html#sights4-altar_patria
Calle El Conde/ Street of the Count
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights7-parks_plazas.html#sights7calle_el_conde
Calle las Damas/ Street of the Ladies
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights7-parks_plazas.html#sights7parks_plazas-calle_las_damas
Capilla de los Remedios/ Chapel of Remedies
Columbus Lighthouse
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Colombus_Lighthouse
churches-capilla_remedios
Cathedral de Santa Maria/ The Cathedral of Santa Maria
101
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights7-parks_plazas.html#sights7-
churches-cathedral_santa_maria
parks_plazas-parque_colon
Fortress of Santo Domingo also known as Fortelaza Ozama
Plaza Pellerano Castro
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights1.html#sights1-fortelaza_ozama
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights7parks_plazas.html#Plaza_Pellerano_Castro
Iglesia y Convento Regina Angelorum/ Church and Convent of
Regina Angelorum
Parque Duarte
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights7-parks_plazas.html#sights7-
churches-convento_iglesia_los_dominicos
parks-duarte
Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Altagracia / Chapel de Altagracia
Juan Pablo Duarte
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Juan_Pablo_Duarte
churches-iglesia_altagracia
Puerta de San Diego/ Gate of St. James
Iglesia Santa Bárbara/ Church of Santa Barbara
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights6-walls_gates.html#sights6http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights8-churches.html#sights8-
walls_gates-puerta_san_diego
churches-santa_barbara
Puerta El Conde/ Door of the Count
Las Casas Reales/ The Royal Houses (picture-new window)
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights6-walls_gates.html#sights6http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights2.html#sights2-
walls_gates-puerta_conde
alcazar_de_colon
Statue of Fray Anton de Montesinos.
Parque Colón/ Columbus Park
http://www.colonialzone-dr.com/sights3.html#sights2-montesino
102
Museo de las Casas Reales (Museum of the Royal Houses)
http://dr1.com/travel/puertoplata/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Felipe_de_Puerto_Plata
http://www.frommers.com/destinations/santodomingo/A24439.html
Buses Santo Domingo to Cabarete
Ruinas del Templo I Hospital Desan Nicolas de Bari
http://www.activecabarete.com/info/travel-transport.php#bus
http://www.medigraphic.com/pdfs/gaceta/gm-2006/gm061m.pdf
Puerto Plata
103

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