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The Doublet Review - NMSU Theatre Arts
The Doublet Review Style points , paired with each period 1. GOTHIC (First Glimpse Fore-runner ) Called Cote-Hardie First use of darting 2. RENAISSANCE Worn in combo (w/Shirt, Jerkin & Gown) Puffed and Slashed (first time) 3. ELIZABETHAN ( heyday ) Bombasted Short pointed Peplum Center Front multiple buttons Peascod belly Paning Piccadills Shoulder Rolls, Wings Crescents Leg-o-Mutton sleeves 4. CAVALIER Extremely high pointed waist Long Peplum Long Slashes 5. RESTORATION ( Last gasp ) Short Bolero vest Short sleeved or sleeveless GOTHIC RENAISSANCE ELIZABETHAN CAVALIER RESTORATION EMPIRE 1790-1815 a.k.a. Directoire Napoleon on his imperial throne By Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres, c. 1806 Musee de l’Armee ABOUT the PERIOD • • • • The time period takes us through the French Revolution and in to the Napoleonic era, as well as the early part of what was known as The Regency in England, and the Federalist period in America. What was happening in France dominated fashion, and there were extremes. There was a dichotomy between the classes in which clothing was an easy way to identify with ones group. The older aristocracy clung to what they knew-- 18th century-style garments. The revolutionaries on the streets wore practical street fighter clothes. Both men & women commonly wore the nationalistic red, white, & blue color combination—stripes were common. Men wore loose fitting clothing with sailor-type pants, which caused them to be known as the Sans culottes meaning without pants because their pants were not considered acceptable as fashion. The female counterparts wore practical shorter skirts with wooden clogs and tricorne & bicorne hats. They are often seen in *Charbonneau engravings brandishing large knives and weapons. The remaining faction were everyday fashionable people who would not know from one day to the next who would be in power, so loyalties shifted to save one s head from the guillotine. These would be the group represented in Neoclassic portraiture, such as the works of *Ingre and *David--Women languidly lounging on Roman-inspired chaise lounge wearing Greek clothing amidst draping, men posed in Roman-inspired settings. Gallows humor was a way to get through the difficult times, and at the large balls that were given nightly in the spirit of eat, drink & be merry, for tomorrow you may die , women wore tiny red chokers around their necks to show sympathy to victims of the guillotine, and men would wear a red ribbon in their buttonhole. There was apparently a dance in which couples would bob up and down as though their heads had been chopped off A La Victime . Wreath tiara, c. 1810. Victoria and Albert Museum, London, France Influential People France • Louis XVI & Marie Antoinette • Robespierre • Danton • Napoleon England • George III America • Washington • Adams • Jefferson • Madison Events France • 1793—Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette executed • 1793-99-- Reign of Terror • 1795-99--Directory • 1799--Consulate • 1804—Coronation of Napoleon • 1804-1814—1st Empire • 1814—Napoleon banished to Elba, then returned for Waterloo England • 1811-1820—Regency Period America • 1791—Bill of Rights ratified • 1792—Two political parties formed—Republican and Federalist • 1800—US capital moved from Philadelphia to Washington • 1812—America declares war on Britain Philosophy • Thomas Paine—The Rights of Man, Common Sense, deism, natural justice, republicanism, liberalism • Hegel-- knowledge of history helps to overcome philosophical problems, identity in difference • Schopenhauer-- art is above science and reason; suffering can be escaped by eliminating desire ( will ) Most Representative Statement of Period • eat, drink, and be merry—for tomorrow you may die … • Napoleon had 240 pairs of gloves—and then ordered 40 more pair. . . ( nuf said. . .) Discoveries/ Inventions • • • • • • 1792—Illuminating gas used for first time (Eng) 1793—The Louvre becomes National Art Gallery of France 1793—Eli Whitney invents cotton gin 1796—First smallpox vaccination 1797—Washing machine patented 1799—Rosetta Stone found (made it possible to read hieroglyphics) • 1799 --Perfectly preserved mammoth found in Siberia • 1800—First battery of zinc and copper • 1801—First submarine Visual Style Style or Movement Neo-classicism--revival in art and architecture of the simple symmetrical styles of ancient Greece and Rome, or created in this style. *Began in architecture and thought in the previous period, moved into clothing and furniture in this period Furniture • Duncan Phyfe • Sheraton (cabinet maker) Artists France • Ingres • David father of Neo-classicism • Charbonneau (documented the revolutionists) England • Turner Spain • Goya Madame Récamier by Jacques-Louis David, 1800 Musée du Louvre, Paris Couch in the form of an Egyptian river boat on crocodile feet, about 1806-10. Bought for the Royal Pavilion by public subscription to honor the work of Dr. Clifford Musgrave as Director of the Royal Pavilion. The Royal Pavilion Brighton Buckingham Palace from Microcosm of London By Rudolf Ackermann, 1808 Bonbonière in the form of a chair in Empire Style c. 1911 Link of Times Cultural and Historical Foundation, Moskau Josephine Bonaparte’s boudoir Gondola Chair at Saint-Cloud c. 1802-03 Attributed to Jacob Freres Designed by Charles Percier Musee National des Chateaux de Malmaison et Bois-Preau Rueil Malmaison The TRANSITION… • A LA BEBE : grown women dressing like little girls, is a transition from classic Georgian into full-blown Empire. Gowns go lighter and more child-like , with large pastel sashes at the waist. In the portraiture, it is sometimes difficult to tell who is the Mother and who are the children . The skirt goes more columnar in silhouette, and the waist sash retains the waistline, but adds a second waistline up under the bust, which by Empire becomes the singular waist. The girl in the painting known as Pinkie is wearing this style. Early versions of it can also be seen in the work of Gainsborough. Marquise de Peze and Marquise de Rouget with Her Children. (detail) By Louise-Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun. 1787 Marie Antoinette, c. 1883 By Louise Elisabeth Vigee Le Brun By Jacques-Louis David, c. 1788 Portrait of Antoine-Laurent and Marie-Anne Lavoisier (detail) Examples of the A LA BEBE style Louise Augusta of Denmark By Jens Juel Family Portrait, Jacques Sablet (detail) Lady at Her Toilet Louis-Leopold Boilly 2nd half of 18th century Private collection Anne-Marie-Louise Thélusson, Comtesse de Sorcy by Jacques-Louis David, 1790 Neue Pinkothek, Munich A Painter Louis-Leopold Boilly, c. 1785 Hermitage Museum The French Revolution The Ascent of Napoleon Much of the Revolution was chronicled in art history. The following 8 slides show many of the major players. The Death of Marat by Jacques-Louis David 1793 Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts, Brussels A Sans-Coulottes By Louis-Leopold Boilly The Pretty Sans-Culotte under Arms With the Sans-Culotte of August 10th Charbonneau/Emile Wattier The Parisians going to the Champ de Mars By Brothers Lesueur, c. 1792 Gerard Depardieu as Danton By Constance-Marie Charpentier, c. 1792 Carnavalet Museum Danton Maximilien Robespierre By Anonymous, 1790 Carnavalet Museum By Pierre Roch Vigneron After Adelaide Labille-Guiard, 1786 Versailles The University of Texas Portrait Gallery Young French from the Champ de Mars to the Exercise Bibliotheque nationale de France Portrait of Queen Charlotte By Thomas Lawrence, c. 1789-90 National Gallery, London Beaux and Belles at Brighton (detail) By William Heath, c. 1810 The 3 faces of Fashion in the Revolution Consecration of the Emperor Napoleon I (detail) by Jacques-Louis David 1805-07 Musée du Louvre, Paris Napoleon in his Study by Jacques-Louis David, c. 1812 National Gallery of Art Washington Napoleon in Front of the Chateau de Malmaison Francois Gerard, c. 1804 Musee National du Chateau de Malmaison Rueil-Malmaison, France Napoleon, Premier Consul By Louis Leopold Boilly, c. 1800 Napoleon (detail) By Andrea Applani, c. 1805 Kunsthistorisches Museum CLOTHING STYLE MEN • Fashionable men wore very stiff, formal clothing. There was much puffing and emphasis at the chest area. Multiple vests were often worn, with cutaway styles coats with very high collar stands, and very wide lapels. The foldback or lapels were known as REVERES , and a unique feature was the M-NOTCH that was formed by the joinery of certain cuts. The vests often had lapels as well, so each layer would fold out to reveal the other. With the addition of the cravat on top of that—it further reinforced the swollen silhouette in the chest area. TAILORING arose as a means to create the full look, and to differentiate a quality garment. Pants were tight, and often lightercolored than the coat & vest so that the crotch area was revealed as an erogenous zone. Thomas Paine by William Sharp 1792 The Violinist Niccolò Paganini by Ingres 1819 Musée du Louvre, Paris The famed "Black Dan" painting by Francis Alexander, completed in 1835. Portrait of Désirée Clary by François-Pascal-Simon Gérard, c. 1810 Musée Marmottan Monet, Paris, France Pride and Prejudice (2005) Count Henri-Amedee-Mercure de Turenne by Jacques-Loius David, 1816 Portrait of the Artist by Jacques-Louis David 1794 Musée du Louvre, Paris Portrait of Ingres by Jacques-Louis David 1800s Pushkin Museum Moscow Portrait of Monsieur Rivière Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres 1805 Louvre, Paris, France. Portrait of Pierre Sériziat by Jacques-Louis David 1795 Musée du Louvre Paris Portrait of Joseph-Antoine Moltedo Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres 1810? The Metropolitan Museum of Art New York Portrait of Juan Antonio Cuervo Goya 1819 Museum of Art, Cleveland Jacobus Blauw by Jacques-Louis David, 1795 National Gallery London Portrait of Emmanuel-Joseph Sieyès by Jacques-Louis David, 1817 Museum Harvard University Cambridge Self-Portrait by JMW Turnerc. 1799 Tate Gallery London Bartolomé Sureda y Miserol by Goya, 1804-06 National Gallery of Art Washington Details from Boilly Meeting of Artists in Isabey's Studio 1798 Musée du Louvre, Paris Checkers Louis-Leopold Boilly, 1803 Jean-Baptist Isabey, Miniaturist, with his Daughter by Francois Gerard 1795 Musée du Louvre, Paris The Geography Lesson by Louis Léopold Boilly 1812 Kimbell Art Museum Fort Worth, TX Extant riding ensemble, male and female, 1815. From Kyoto Exhibit. HATS and HEADDRESSES MEN Holdover of tricorne (early) then bicorne (Napoleon). There is an early version of the top hat with sides that slope slightly inward as they reach the top. HAIR and Facial Hair Men • A LA BRUTUS : men s hair grown slightly longer & combed forward. • This hairstyle was usually accompanied by long sideburns. Portrait of Jeanbon Saint-André by Jacques-Louis David 1795 Art Institute, Chicago ACCESSORIES Men • SHOES: They wore tall riding-type boots with a wide variety of shapes cut into the tops. Small delicate pumps • OUTER: Large flamboyant capes with multiple layers and high collars. • OTHER: • CRAVAT: elaborate wrapped neck piece that was worn with the shirt collar points up on the chin, and the cravat wrapped around and then tied elaborately. One had to keep their chin up . • WALKING STICKS: accoutrement such as sticks and canes were popular. • WAIST-CINCH: Some men wore an underpinning to cinch in their waist to achieve the small-waisted silhouette. DANDIES & FOPS • INCROYABLE: major dandies of the day----fashion deviancy & extremes--wear coats with overlong tails on coat or extra tight shortshort coat with very tiny tails They wore EXTREMELY tight, lightcolored pants and EXTEREMLY high cravats with flamboyant ties, etc. • MERVEILLUSES: female counterparts to incroyable—dresses were very thin fabric, often with a sheer body-stocking (maillot) underneath, so as to appear nude. Often wore a false bosom, necklines were extremely low, so often had nipple showing at edge of neckline—or in the see-through layers of fabric. • “they greeted the new regime with an outbreak of luxury, decadence, and even silliness.” Wiki Merveilleuses and Incroyables in the 1790s. Both men and women wear high constricting cravat knots, large earrings and absurd hats. Striped clothes were very popular. Dorner, Jane. Fashion. P.84 Point de Convention By Louis-Leopold Boilly, c. 1797 Point de Convention By Louis-Leopold Boilly, c. 1797 c. 1800. Les Suppleans. The fashion of false bosoms has at least this utility, that it compels our fashionable fair to wear something. From a contemporary engraving. Waugh, Norah. Corsets and Crinolines Original Engraving by By Carle Vernet ( French, 1758 - 1836) Village Antiques website Original Engraving by By Carle Vernet ( French, 1758 - 1836) Village Antiques website Following the Fashion By James Gillray, c. 1794 “Wonderful and Amazing” the Muscadin After Carle Vernet RMN-Grand Palais Paris, Musee Carnavalet Les Incroyables Original Engraving by Carle Vernet French, 1758 - 1836 Les Incroyables (Detail) Original Engraving by Carle Vernet French, 1758 - 1836 Russell Brand’s costume as Trinculo in Julie Taymor’s film version of Shakespeare’s “The Tempest”. Clearly influenced by the Incroyable… 1812 or Regency A La Mode Prince Regent getting his corset tightened By W. Heath, c. 1812 Faisons la Paix [Make Peace] by Louis Léopold Boilly, c. 1761 Detail from "The Three Graces in A High Wind", semisatirical engraving by Gillray (published 1810, perhaps originally drawn earlier): Parisian Ladies in their Full Winter Dress for 1800(exaggerated satirical print by Isaac Cruikshank, Nov. 24th 1799) A voluptuary under the horrors of digestion James Gillray, July 2, 1792 Les Invisibles en Tete-a-Tete From the series Le Supreme Bon Ton, No. 16 Unknown artist Published by Martinet, Paris, c. 1810-15 The Fashions of the Day, or Time Past and Time Present By George Moutard Woodward, c. 1807 Collection of the Library of Congress CLOTHING STYLE WOMEN • Fashionable women wanted to appear to be like Greek statues. The silhouette has a waist that is very high up under the bosom called an EMPIRE WAIST . These had an extremely low neckline, and the skirts were very columnar, and often had a train in back. ( ROBES EN CHEMISE ) They could be sleeveless or have little cap sleeves with a small, high puff. The long-sleeved version was fitted to the wrist, with the tiny puff at the top. They wore Greek accoutrement like, ankle bracelets, arm-bands and toe rings. The choker was popular, probably to balance the extremely low décolletage. If you look carefully at the paintings, you can often see evidence of modesty pieces in the neckline area, no doubt to help contain the bosom within the low neckline. Seemingly, the corset was gone, but there is evidence of a foundation garment that accommodated the bosom. In addition to the Greek look, you may see some occasional Renaissance influence as well such as puffing & slashing, or the occasional ruff. (Detail) Regency underclothes From an 1824 reprint of the 1811 “Book of English Trades” Showing one form of Regency “stays” Madame Recamier by Jacques-Louis Gerald 1802 Madame Raymond de Verninac by Jacques-Louis David 1798-99 Musée du Louvre Paris Portrait of a Young Woman in White Jacques-Louis David, c. 1798 National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C. Anne Hathaway in Les Miserables movie costume Rose Adelaide Jacques-Louis David HAIR and MAKEUP . Women • They wore elaborate coiffures in the Greek Manner which included fillets. • Women also wore their own version of the A la Brutus , sweeping their bangs forward. HATS and HEADDRESSES WOMEN • POKE BONNETS with brims that stick-up. • The wrapped turban is quite popular at this time. Portrait of Countess Daru by Jacques-Louis David, c. 1810 The Frick Collection, NY Woman in a Turban by Jacques-Louis David 1794 Private collection Fashion plate English and French (Detail) Madame Seriziat (Detail) Dress of 1799 (Detail) Millinery shop in Paris (Detail) By Chalon, c. 1822 French print from 1803 (Detail) http://www.victoriana.com/library/fplates.html Fashion Plate Head dresses, Winter 1814 Les Invisibles, c. 1810 ACCESSORIES Women • SHOES: They favored little ballet-like slippers, ESCARPIN, with toe-shoe type lacing up the ankle area, or small sandals, or sandals that laced up the leg. • OUTER: Elaborate patterned & fringed shawls and small short jackets that often had peplums called SPENCERS and PELISSE were worn over the columnar gowns. • OTHER: • UNDERPINNINGS: Napoleon banished the corset in 1800 because he said that France needed to replenish its male population , but women did continue to wear some sort of silhouette-enhancing underproper. • MAILLOT: a nude body-stocking • RETICULE: Little elaborate cloth gathered bags or purses that had long ties Fashion plate Watercolor of Spencer jacket 1798 Evening dress, c. 1804-05 Worn by Elizabeth Patterson Metropolitan Museum of Arts Extant example of Spencer jacket made of red cut velvet with piping and wrapped buttons, 1815. From Kyoto Exhibit. Theresa Tallien Red Shawl from Costume Parisien 1799 Escarpin Illustration of a woman with her feet in the fourth position (Detail) From T. Wilson’s Analysis of Country Dancing, c. 1811 Catherine Worlée (Detail) David 1810 watercolor sketch (Detail) By Johann Adam Klein Fashion plate English and French (Detail) Point de Convention (Detail) Portrait of Madame de Senonnes Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres c. 1814-16. Musée des Beaux-Arts, Nantes, France. Portrait of Madame Panckoucke Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres 1811 Louvre, Paris, France. Consecration of the Emperor Napoleon I (details) by Jacques-Louis David 1805-07 Musée du Louvre, Paris Extant formal gown, c. 1805, figured silk with leafshaped motif. Shawl of white silk with yarn fringe. From the Kyoto Exhibit. Les soeurs Harvey by J.A.D. Ingres, 1804 Fashion plate English and French 1815 Madame Seriziat Jacques-Louis David 1795 Musee de Louvre Portrait of the Mlles. Mollien by Rouget, 1811 Portrait of Mrs. Edward Hudson by Thomas Sully, 1814 Dress of 1799 Le Journal Des Dames et Des Modes 1799 Dolley Madison By Gilbert Stuart, c. 1804 Muslin gown with Marie sleeves 1810 Victoria and Albert Mourning Dress 1811 England, Ackermann’s Repository Robe Garnie en Chicoree By Horace Vernet Louis-Léopold Boilly A Painter's Studio, c. 1800 Chester Dale Collection Young Woman Ironing Louis-Léopold Boilly 1800 Chester Dale Collection The Amateur Print Collectors By Louis-Leopold Boilly, c. 1810 Louvre, Paris Majas on Balcony by Goya 1800-14 Metropolitan Museum of Art New York Maja and Celestina by Goya, 1808-12 Collection Bartolomé March, Palma de Mallorca Madame Trudaine by Jacques-Louis David, c. 1792 Musée du Louvre, Paris Mademoiselle Rivière by Ingre 1806 Musée du Louvre, Paris Portrait of the Comtesse Vilain XIIII and her Daughter by Jacques-Louis David, 1816 National Gallery, London Portrait of Marguerite-Charlotte David by Jacques-Louis David, 1813 National Gallery of Art, Washington Portrait of Antonia Zárate by Goya, c. 1805 National Gallery of Ireland, Dublin Portrait of a Lady with a Fan by Goya 1806-07 Musée du Louvre, Paris Dona María Tomasa Palafox, Marquesa de Villafranca by Goya, 1804 Museo del Prado, Madrid Portrait of Catherine Worlée, Princesse de TalleyrandPérigord by Francois Gerard, 1804-05 Private collection Charles IV and his Family by Goya, c. 1800 Museo del Prado, Madrid Pride and Prejudice (2005) Pride and Prejudice (2005) The Bride (1985) Emma (1996 TV) Movie versions of this period Sense and Sensibility (1995) Emma (1996) Pride and Prejudice (2005) Empire Era Jewelry Wreath tiara of enameled gold set with a paste cameo, diamonds and pearls, c. 1810. Phillips, Clare. Jewelry: From Antiquity to the Present. Victoria and Albert Muesum, London, France Watch ring with seed pearls, Swiss or French about 1810. Chadour, Anna Beatriz. Rings: The Alice and Louis Koch Collection, Forty Centuries seen by Four Generations; Volume II. Socrates intaglio based on Renaissance prototypes, French, late 18th century. Chadour, Anna Beatriz. Rings: The Alice and Louis Koch Collection, Forty Centuries seen by Four Generations; Volume II. Additional Examples Portrait of Pauline Bonaparte By Robert Lefevre, c. 1806 Palace of Versailles, France Portrait of Mme d’Aucourt By Louis-Leopold Boilly, c. 1800 Meeting of Artists in Isabey's Studio by Louis-Leopold Boilly 1798 Musée du Louvre, Paris Mrs. Noah Smith and Her Children By Ralph Earl, c. 1798 Metropolitan Museum of Art
• 1812—America declares war on Britain
