PR5servicebook-1 - AJP Motorcycles America

Transcription

Chapter 1 – Frame / Panels / Exhaust
GENERAL INFORMATION
1–1
MUD GUARD
1–4
TROUBLESHOOTING
1–1
SKID PLATE
1–5
FRONT FENDER
1–1
EXHAUST SYSTEM
1–5
BODY PANELS
1–2
FRAME BEAMS
1–7
SEAT
1–3
FRAME
1 – 10
REAR FENDER
1–4
GENERAL INFORMATION
! DANGER !
Fuel (Petrol) is extremely flammable and
explosive under certain conditions. KEEP IT
AWAY FROM CHILDREN.
! DANGER !
Serious burns can result if the exhaust system
does not cool down before components are
removed or handle.
Work in a well-ventilated area. Smoking, open
flames or sparks in the work area or where
fuel is stored can cause a fire or an explosion.
This section covers the removal and
installation of the frame panels and exhaust
system.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Excessive exhaust noise:
 Exhaust system broken;
 Leak in the exhaust system.
Low performance:
 Deformed exhaust system;
 Leak in the exhaust system;
 Clogged nozzle.
FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL
Remove the screws nuts and washers [1].
Remove the fender.
Always replace the exhaust gaskets when
removing the exhaust pipe of the engine.
Check for leaks in the exhaust system after
installation.
Note: Make sure the exhaust pipe and muffler
are not in contact with any other part of the
motorcycle, such as a fuel tank, rear brake
hose, wire of the stop rear brake light switch,
engine oil pipe, etc.
Service manual AJP PR5 250 LC
1-1
INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.
Tighten the screws with washers’ plate.
Note:
- Check the tightness of the screws of the
front fender to the bottom of the triple clamps,
before mounting the front fenders again.
- Check alignment of the fenders in relation to
the front wheel and adjust if necessary before
final tightening in the fender.
FRONT GRILLS
REMOVAL
Remove the right and left side panels [page 12].
Remove the screws [1].
Remove the front grill [2], (both sides are
symmetric).
BODY PANELS
SIDE PANELS
REMOVAL
Remove the screws and washers [1].
Remove the side panels [2] of the both sides
(which are symmetric).
INSTALLATION
Tighten the screws with their washers’ plate.
HEADLIGHT
INSTALLATION
Note:
- Snap each cover below seat without
damaging the seat cover.
- Do not over tighten the screw fixation of the
lower side panels to avoid damaging the
plastic knob on the front grills.
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
Remove the headlight support rubbers [2] of
the right hand side;
Turn the headlight towards the front to
disconnect the headlight connection plug [3]
and 4 wires connection [4] of the front turn
signals;
Remove the headlight support rubbers [2] of
the left hand side and the headlight [1] is
removed;
1-2
SEAT
REMOVAL
Loosen the screw locking underneath the
fender with a screwdriver;
Push the seat towards the rear to release the
seat and pull it upward.
BACK PANELS
REMOVAL
Remove the screws [1].
Remove the back panel [2], (both sides are
symmetric).
INSTALLATION
Make sure the seat hook [2] is aligned with the
plate frame [1];
Make sure the seat hole [2] is aligned with the
pin rear section [1];
INSTALLATION
Install the back panel with the top flap lined
under the seat.
1-3
Push the seat down and forward until the hole
in the saddle fit on the cap of the fuel tank;
Tighten the screw of the seat closure with a
screwdriver.
Note: when installing the seat, be careful that
the back covers will not damage the seat
cover.
REAR FENDER
REMOVAL
Remove the back panel [page 1-2] and the
seat [page 1-3];
Disconnect the connectors [1] of the turn
signals and tail light.
INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal;
Make sure that the electrical connections in
the connectors of the turn signal and tail light
are correct;
Check the operation of the turn signals and
tail light.
MUD GUARD
REMOVAL
Remove the screws [1];
The mud guard is immediately released.
Remove the screws [1] and nuts [2];
Pull the fender towards the rear to release it.
1-4
Note: To protect the rear shock, the bike
should never travel without the mud guard.
INSTALLATION
ATENTION:
- Use only screws with appropriate
dimensions (M6x12) for fixing the mud guard
protective buffer in the fuel tank.
- Do not over tighten the screws to avoid
damaging the fuel tank.
- Never drive with the bike without a flap to
protect the rear shock absorber.
SKID PLATE
REMOVAL
Remove the screws [1];
Remove the skid plate [2].
If it is Extreme version, the skid plate will be in
plastic, which will also have a support rubber
[3] which is then fitted within the frame.
INSTALLATION
EXHAUST SYSTEM
EXHAUST MUFFLER / EXHAUST PIPE
REMOVAL
Remove the right rear cover [page 1-2];
Remove the screw fixation of the bracket of
the muffler [1];
Remove the spring from the tip of the exhaust
pipe.
Push the muffler towards the rear to free it
from the exhaust pipe.
1-5
DOMA EXHAUST SYSTEM
In bikes equipped with DOMA exhaust
system, the exhaust pipe has a different
diameter, so that can only be sold as a
complete set.
The procedure to remove the DOMA exhaust
system is exactly the same as the normal
muffler removal, with the only difference of the
direction to loosen the screw [1] that is holding
this bracket.
Loosen with a spanner of 22 mm the oxygen
sensor (Lambda sensor) [1] and remove it
from the exhaust pipe (connectors can remain
connected);
Remove the retaining nuts from the exhaust
pipe [2] and loosen the flange;
Carefully pull the pipe out of the exhaust
manifold [3].
1-6
INSPECTION
Check for damage to the corners, flanges,
gaskets, joint and DOMA bracket;
If necessary, straighten the flange of the pipe,
to ensure a perfect seal on the exhaust
manifold;
Check the correct tightening of each of the
exhaust manifold M6x35 bolt in the cylinder
head;
Replace any component of the exhaust
system is damaged.

and then the fixing screw of the bracket
[2]. If the bracket screw is tightened first,
the connection could not seal properly.
Make sure there are no leaks between the
pipe and the manifold. If there is a leak,
the assembly is incorrect or any
component is damaged. If necessary,
apply a high temperature silicone or folder
type FIREGUM ® to seal exhaust
systems. If there is still leakage, replace
the manifold gaskets, the muffler [1] and /
or the pipe [3] again.
Note: The DOMA exhaust system is only
provided as a complete set, components are
not sold separately.
NOTE: During assembly of the exhaust
system, adjust the position of the pipe and the
bracket of the muffler, and make sure they are
not in contact with the fuel tank, brake line,
electrical wires or cables, or engine oil pipes.
INSTALLATION
The assembly of the exhaust system
components should be done in reverse order
of removal.
TIGHTENING:
Fixing nuts from the exhaust manifold: 10
N.m (1,0 kgf.m)
Bracket screw: 32 N.m (3,3 kgf.m)
Oxygen sensor in the exhaust pipe:
40 --- 60 N.m (3,8 --- 5,9 Kgf.m)
FRAME BEAMS
REPLACEMENT
To replace any frame beam, put the bike
resting on a bench / appropriate support stand
so that the two wheels rest against the
ground.
Note:
 Always replace the exhaust manifold
gaskets, if they are not in good condition.
 Point all the bolts and nuts. Always tighten
manifold nuts [4] first in the cylinder head,
1-7
LEFT BEAM





Remove the M10 nut that screw the
upper attachment of the damper (with
a 17mm box wrench);
Remove the fixation screw from the
bottom of the left beam to the crib
frame (with a 10 allen key);
Remove shaft nut of the swing arm
(with a 22mm box wrench);
Separate the left beam from the frame;
Remove the side stand/footpeg
bracket.
ASSEMBLY:
DISASSEMBLY:










Remove the seat and front and back
side covers;
Remove the air filter box;
If it exists, loosen the insulated clamp
that fixes the stator motor cables on
the left beam;
Detach the connector from the fuel
pump and remove any plastic clamp to
release the wires connecting the
pump;
Loosen the connectors of the taillight
and the rear turn signals above the fuel
tank;
Remove the fuel injector connector and
detach the injector from the inlet
nozzle;
Remove the whole rear section with
tank and fenders included;
Remove the gearshift lever and
sprocket cover;
Remove the four fixation screws of the
upper beam to the frame (it is
recommended to use a ratchet ¼ "with
a 10mm wrench suitable to the existing
limited space to loosen or tighten
correctly the four self-locking nuts
6mm from the inside of the beam);
Remove the reinforcement frame
screw from the left beam (with a 13mm
box wrench);
Install the new left beam in the frame of PR5,
properly aligning the various holes of the fixing
points, and provisionally screw all the screws
until it is completely mated in the cradle of the
beam frame.
Note: If necessary, use only a rubber hammer
or nylon, to adjust the fit of the aluminum
beam on the frame.
Tighten the nut on the engine shaft / swing
arm and all the beam fixing screws to the
frame with the correct torque;
Proceed with the installation by following the
procedures in the reverse order of removal.
RIGHT BEAM
DISASSEMBLY:






side covers;
Release the clutch cable holder
attached to the right beam;
Detach the connector from the fuel
pump, and remove any plastic clamp
to release the wires;
nozzle;
Loosen the connectors of the
taillight/spoiler and the rear turn
signals;
1-8









Remove the four fixation screws of the
upper beam to the frame (it is
recommended to use a ratchet ¼ "with
a 10mm wrench suitable to the existing
limited space to loosen or tighten
correctly the four self-locking nuts
6mm from the inside of the beam);
Remove the reinforcement frame
screw from the right beam (with a
13mm box wrench);
Remove the M10 nut that screw the
upper attachment of the damper (with
a 17mm box wrench), and remove the
bolt with the two distance bushings;
Remove the fixation screw from the
bottom of the right beam to the crib
frame (with a 10mm allen key);
Remove shaft nut of the swing arm
(with a 22mm box wrench) and pull the
motor / swing arm shaft;
Separate the right beam from the
frame;
Loosen the kneecap and remove the
brake pedal;
Remove the bracket from the right
footpeg.
ASSEMBLY
Install the new right beam in the frame of PR5,
properly aligning the various holes of the fixing
points and provisionally screw all the screws
until it is completely mated in the cradle of the
beam frame;
Insert the axle / motor shaft with washer
through the hole in right beam;
Tighten the nut on the engine / swing arm
shaft and all the fixing screws beam to the
frame with the correct torque;
Proceed with the installation by following the
procedures in the reverse order of removal.
Tightening torque of the beams frame:
Upper attachment (6mm): 12N.m (1,2Kgf.m)
Lower attachment (12mm):
Frame reinforcement (8mm): 32N.m (3,3
kgf.m)
Shock absorber / rear (10mm):
Engine / swing arm shaft (14mm): 88N.m
(9,0Kgf.m)
Note: If necessary, use only a rubber hammer
or nylon, to adjust the fit of the aluminum
beam on the frame.
1-9
FRAME
To replace the frame, remove the skid plate
and put the bike resting on an appropriate
support so that the two wheels of the bike just
rest against the ground.
Note: Before disassembling the components,
can be beneficial shooting or taking note of
the assembly position of the various
components, especially electric wires and
cables,
electric
wiring
and
injection
components, as well as the passage of gas
piping, for future reference, so that ensure the
assembly of all parts in the correct position to
ensure safe operation of the motorcycle.
DISASSEMBLY:














side covers;
Remove the inlet manifold;
Remove the battery;
Remove the battery holder together
with the rectifier / current regulator;
Cut the plastic clamp fixing probe
connectors LAMBDA in the transverse
reinforcement in the frame tube and
release the two connectors;
Remove exhaust muffler and pipe;
Detach the connector from the gas
pump and remove any plastic clamp to
release the connecting wires of the
pump;
Loosen the connectors of the taillight /
turn signals and rear spoiler above the
fuel tank;
nozzle;
Remove the gearshift lever and
sprocket cover;
If it exists, loosen the clamp fixing the
cables of the motor stator on the left
beam and release the connector pickup;
Remove the inlet nozzle;
10

















Remove the engine (pages 5-1 to 5-5);
Loosen the rubber clamps and remove
the headlight;
Loosen the 3P and 6P connectors of
the links of the switch lights and 4P
and 5P connectors of the ignition
switch and throttle switch handle to the
electrical wiring;
Cut the cable ties on the right
handlebar and release the cable /
connection wires of the switch on the
front brake pump;
Remove the nut from the steering stem
underneath the handlebars (use a key
stretch mark 32mm lowered to 9.5mm
thick), and unscrew the four screws on
the top of the sheaths table fork;
Use a nylon hammer to give some
hints on the underside of the triple
clamp and pull the handlebar upward
to separate the triple clamp of the
steering stem tube;
Loosen the adjustment nut of the
steering stem, and remove the whole
fork with handlebars, fender and front
wheel out of the frame of the bike;
Loosen the connector of the hydraulic
rear stop switch and the brake pump
on the right beam;
Remove
the
suspension
rods
connecting
screw,
remove
the
retaining screw of the damper to the
beams with the away bushes and
remove the swing arm assembly with
the damper, the chain, the wheel and
the rear brake;
Remove the ECU;
Remove the wiring of the injection
system;
Remove the wiring of the electrical
system;
Remove the horn;
Remove the reinforced frame with the
ignition coil and starter relay;
Remove the front grills;
Loosen the oil cooler with the oil lines
included;
Remove the beams of the frame, with
the side stand, foot pegs and their
supports;
1-


Remove the nylon roller of the chain
and the suspension rod from the cradle
frame;
Remove bearings from the steering
column;
ASSEMBLY:
First, assemble the bearing boxes (tapered)
on the steering stem; then mount the rear
suspension rod and nylon roller for the chain
of the new cradle frame.
11
Proceed with all operations to assemble the
cradle of the frame on the bike, by the reverse
order of disassembly.
In the end, always make a static and dynamic
testing to ensure the correct functioning of the
motorcycle.
Please refer to PR5 parts list schemes for any
doubt regarding components.
1-
Chapter 2 –Maintenance
SERVICE INFORMATION
2–1
BRAKES
2 – 33
TORQUE VALUES
2–4
WHEELS
2 – 38
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
2–6
SPOKES
2 – 39
2–7
TIRES
2 – 40
2–9
DRIVE CHAIN
DRIVE CHAIN
SLIDER
BRAKE LIGHT
SWITCH
2 – 41
RACING MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE
LIQUID COOLING
ENGINE OIL
2 – 12
2 – 43
AIR FILTER
2 – 17
FUEL FEED
2 – 20
BATTERY
2 – 44
THROTTLE OPERATION
2 – 23
FUSE
2 – 46
CLUTCH
2 – 24
2 – 47
SPARK PLUG
2 – 26
VALVE CLEARANCE
2 – 27
LIGHTS
DIGITAL
SPEEDOMETER
SIDE STAND
CYLINDER COMPRESSION
2 – 28
2 – 51
STEERING STEM
2 – 29
EXHAUST SYSTEM
MOTORCYCLE
CLEANING
SUSPENSIONS
2 – 30
STICKERS
2 – 53
NUTS, BOLTS,
FASTENERS
2 – 53
2 – 44
2 – 49
2 – 51
2 – 52
SERVICE INFORMATION
SPECIFICATION
SERVICE
LIMIT
2 – 5 mm
-
CHAMPION RG6YC
-
NGK CR8E
-
0,7 – 0,8
-
Idle
8º BTDC at 1.600 rpm
-
Maximum
30º BTDC at 8.000 rpm
-
Intake
0,05 ± 0,02 mm
-
Exhaust
0,08 ± 0,02 mm
-
ITEM
Throttle grip free play
Standard (equivalent)
Spark plug
Racing
Spark plug gap
Spark angle
Valve clearance
Recommend oil
Service Manual AJP PR5
Type
ENI - AGIP i-Ride Moto 4T SAE 10W-50 (20W-50)
Classification API: SL JASO MA, MA2
Viscosity: SAE 10W-50 (20W-50)
2-1
Draining
Disassembly
Oil filter change
1,6 liter
1,8 liter
1,7 liter
-
Engine oil change
Each 3.000 Km
-
Idle (Above 60ºC)
1600 rpm ±100 rpm
-
Drive chain slack
30 – 40 mm
-
EN/TR
112 links
-
SM
110 links
-
Engine oil capacity
Drive chain length
EXTREME
STANDARD
Drive chain type
RK/DID 520 – 5/8’’x1/4’’
-
DID 520VX/114L–5/8’’x1/4’’
RK 52050-114L–5/8’’x1/4’’
520 50-114L
Z12
Z11 / Z13
EN/TR
Z48 (JTR 897 - 48)
-
SM
Z46 (JTA 897 - 46)
-
Z50 (JTA 822 - 50 / 52)
-
-
To the
indicator
DOT 4
-
10 – 20 mm
-
Front Enduro
Michelin 90/90 – 21’’
-
Rear Enduro
Michelin 120/80 – 18’’
-
Front Extreme
Michelin 90/90 – 21’’
Rear Extreme
Michelin 130/80 – 18’’
RACING WITH ORINGS
Drive sprocket
Rear sprocket
Extreme
Drive chain guide slider thickness
Recommended brake fluid
Clutch lever free play
Tire size
Front Trail
Rear Trail
-
Michelin T63 90/90 – 21”
Michelin T63 90/90 – 21”
Front Supermoto
Michelin 100/80 – 17’’
-
Rear Supermoto
Michelin 130/70 – 17’’
-
Front Enduro/Trail
150 KPa (1,5 Kgf/cm2)
Racing front Enduro
Cold tire
pressure
112/114 links
Rear Enduro/Trail
Racing rear Enduro
Front Supermoto
Rear Supermoto
Tire depth
2
100 -150 KPa (1,0 - 1,5 Kgf/cm )
Depends on track conditions
-
175 KPa (1,75 Kgf/cm2)
-
100 -150 KPa (1,0 - 1,5 Kgf/cm2)
Depends on track conditions
-
175 KPa (1,75 Kgf/cm2)
-
2
200 KPa (2,0 Kgf/cm )
-
-
3 mm
2-2
TORQUE VALUES
Thread type
TORQUE
N.m (kgf.m)
Air filter bolt
M6
10 (1,0)
Spark plug
M10x1
13 (1,3)
Valve cover bolt
M6
10 (1,0)
Use a specific 16mm
spark plug key
-
Valve tuner nut
M6x0.75
12 (1,2)
-
M14x1
13 (1,3)
Apply grease on O-ring
M25x1.5
17,5 (1,8)
M14x1.5
20 (2,1)
Apply Teflon on the
thread
M5
8 (0,8)
Do not exceed torque
M14x1
18 (1,8)
Right crankcase cover
M6
12 (1,2)
-
Clutch cover (plastic)
M6
10 (1,0)
Clutch discs springs bolts
M5
8 (0,8)
Clutch hub nut / primary shaft
M18x1
60 (6.1)
Crankshaft sprocket nut / starting clutch
M18x1
98 (10,0)
Oil pumps bolt
M5
8 (0,8)
Bend flange of retaining
washer
Bend flange of retaining
washer
-
Star bolt / drum cam
M6
12 (1,2)
Apply LOCTITE 240
Gear fixation bolt
M6
12 (1,2)
-
Left crankcase cover
M6
12 (1,2)
-
Magnetic flywheel nut
M12x1.5
40 (4,0)
Apply LOCTITE 240
Stator bolt
M5
10 (1,0)
-
Pick up bolts
M5
10 (1,0)
-
Crankshaft command wheel nut
M24x1
112 (11)
Apply grease on thread
Balance shaft command wheel nut
M18x1
98 (10,0)
Tensor guide pivot bolt
M5
8 (0,8)
-
Timing chain tensor bolts
M6
12 (1,2)
-
Timing tensor spring cover
M7
8 (0,8)
Timing sprocket bolts
M6
12 (1,2)
Apply LOCTITE 240
Camshaft left bearing bolt
M6
10 (1,0)
Apply LOCTITE 240
Cylinder head stud nuts
M10x1,25
39 (4,0)
-
Start motor fixation bolts
M6
12 (1,2)
-
Sprocket cover
M6
12 (1,2)
-
Sprocket bolt
M10x1.25
48 (4,9)
Use pneumatic wrench
Swing arm shaft nut
M14x1.5
98 (10,0)
-
M12
45 (4,4)
-
ITEM
Synchronizing holes cover
Flywheel hole cover
1
Crankcase oil drain ( )
Oil filter cover
Oil filters cleaners cover
Swing arm link bolt/nut
REMARKS
2-3
Frame link bolt/nut
M12
45 (4,4)
-
Shock absorber bolts
M10
40 (3,9)
-
Upper fixation of frame beams
M6
12 (1,2)
-
Lower fixation of frame beams
M12
36 (3,6)
-
Frame reinforcement bolts
M8
32 (3,2)
-
Side stand pivot nut
M12
15 (1,5)
Variable adjustment
Rear frame upper fixation
M10
40 (3,9)
-
Rear frame lower fixation
M8
32 (3,3)
-
Fuel tank fixation bolts
M6
10 (1,0)
Fuel tank mud guard
M6
10 (1,0)
Fuel pump fixation bolts
M5
5 (0,5)
Rear pedal fixation bolt
M8
29 (3,0)
Follow sequence
marked on fuel pump
-
Rear wheel shaft nut
M14x1.5
93 (9,5)
-
Front wheel shaft
M20x1.5
75 (7,4)
Front wheel shaft retaining bolts
M6
12 (1,2)
-
Lower triple clamp bolts
M8
15 (1,5)
Upper triple clamp bolts
M8
18 (1,8)
Steering stem bearing adjustment nut
M30x1
-
Steering stem head nut
M28x1
98 (10,0)
-
Handlebar holders fixation nuts
M12
40 (4,1)
-
Handlebar holders
M8
27 (2,8)
-
Front fender bracket
M6
12 (1,2)
-
Clutch and brake lever adjustment nut
M6
10 (1,0)
-
Ignition switch
M6
12 (1,2)
With fuse nut
Cockpit nut
M6
8 (0,8)
-
Cylinder head exhaust flange
M8
20 (2,0)
Front wheel spoke nipple
-
4 (0,4)
-
Rear wheel spoke nipple
-
5 (0,5)
-
Tire fixation (Enduro/Extreme)
M8
15 (1,5)
-
Rear sprocket nuts/bolts
M8
3,2 (33)
-
Brake discs nuts/bolts
M6
12 (1,2)
-
Notes:
Each time crankcase oil drain plug is removed, check if the washer is in good conditions, otherwise replace it. I tis
recommended to apply some TEFLON straps at the plug threads to ensure a perfect tightness. Drain plug tightness must
be done carefully, without overtaking the specified torque, to avoid damaging crankcase thread.
(2)
– Each time cylinder head cover is removed, ensure that both M6x62 bolts of rocker arms retaining are in good
conditions. If they present wear, replace them by bolts M6x62, DIN 912) of class 12.9.
- The tightening of these two M6x62 bolts must never exceed the specified torque of 10N.m (1,0Kgf.m), otherwise they
may break due to engine heating and rocker arm shaft loads.
(1) –
2-4
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
A description of several necessary operations
to a correct functioning of motorcycle and
periods is as follows.
Before use
Check before use operations on User Manual
AFTER FIRST 1.000 km – BREAK IN
Replace spark plug;
Replace engine oil;
Clean engine oil filter;
Check engine oil level;
Check liquid cooling level;
Check air filter. Clean and wet in oil;
Check drive chain;
Check valve clearance;
Check correct functioning of: braking system,
spoke tightness; tire condition; clutch cable;
side stand; steering stem bearings;
suspensions; battery; exhaust; electrical
system.
EACH 500 km OR MONTH
Check, adjust, clean and lubricate drive
chain;
Check oil level and refill if necessary.
Check liquid cooling level and refill if
necessary;
EACH 3.000 km OR 6 MONTHS
Replace spark plug;
Replace engine oil;
Clean engine oil filter;
Check engine oil level;
Check liquid cooling level and refill if
necessary;
Check drive chain;
Check valve clearance;
Check fuel feed, lubrication and liquid cooling
tubes;
Check fuel injection system functioning;
Adjust and lubricate throttle cable;
Adjust and lubricate clutch cable;
Check timing chain;
Check timing tensioner;
Check brake pads,
Check brake fluid level;
Check braking system functioning and stop
switches;
Check tires condition;
Check spoke tightness;
Check side stand functioning;
Check steering functioning;
Check suspensions functioning;
Check battery. Control voltage with or without
charge;
Check exhaust: condition, leaks and noise
level;
Check condition and functioning of several
component of electrical system;
Check tightness of bolts, nuts, clamps of
diverse components.
Perform operations indicated for each 3.000
kms, plus:
Clean or replace oil filters;
Replace spark plug;
Replace air filter;
Check functioning of fuel cap valve;
Lubricate steering stem bearings;
Lubricate rear suspension links;
Lubricate swing arm bearings.
Perform operations indicated for each 3.000
and 6.000 kms, plus:
Replace timing chain;
Replace air filter;
Replace brake fluids;
Replace front fork seals;
Replace front fork oil;
Replace drive chain.
! WARNING !
Intensive riding, with high engine
revolutions, dirty or muddy terrains,
demands
more
frequent
than
recommended cleaning and maintenance
operations, to ensure the correct
motorcycle functioning.
2-5
RACING MAINTENAINCE SCHEDULE
Check all items before each race.
Following items can be used as guidelines for racing preparation.
! WARNING !
RACING LEAD TO AN IMMEDIATE LOSS OF WARRANTY
ITEM
CHECK FOR
ACTION AS REQUIRED
ENGINE OIL
Oil level, Leakage
Replace original oil for 20W50 grade
Supply or change
ENGINE OIL FILTERS
Damage
Clean, wash or replace
LIQUID COOLING
Level, leakage
Supply or change
RADIATORS
Damage, leakage, breather tube
Repair or replace
AIR FILTER
Contamination or tears
Clean or replace
THROTTLE BODY
Sensors functioning, damage
Clean or replace
FUEL TANK
Damage, leakage
Replace
FUEL PUMP
Proper operation, output pressure
Replace
FUEL HOSES
Deterioration, damage, leaks
Replace
SPARK PLUG
Tightness, proper heat range, spark
plug wire looseness and damage
Tighten or replace
VALVE CLEARANCE
Correct clearance
Adjust
TIMING CHAIN
Excessive noise
Replace
ROCKER ARMS SHAFT RETAING
BOLTS
Damage, tightness
CLUTCH DISCS
Proper operation, wear
Replace
ENGINE BREATHER TUBE
Correct installation, damage
Check, repair or replace
ENGINE STOP SWITCH
Proper installation
Repair or replace
CONTROL CABLES
Smooth operation, inner cable
damage, kinks and correct rooting
Lubricate or replace
STEERING STEM
Free rotation of handlebars and
steering stem nut tightness
Adjust or tighten
Service Manual AJP PR5 250 LC
Replace
2-6
FRONT SUSPENSION
Smooth operation, oil leaks, good
boot condition and proper oil volume
Clean, without mud or dirt.
Adjust or replace
REAR SUSPENSION
Smooth operation, oil leaks and
spring length
Adjust or replace
SWINGARM BEARINGS
Smooth operation
REAR SUSPENSION LINKAGE
BEARINGS
Smooth operation
BRAKE SYSTEM
Brake lever free play, brake pedal
height, braking efficiency and wear
beyond service limit
Adjust or replace or purge air
of braking system
WHEELS/TIRES
Tire pressure, wear or damage,
spoke tightness and rim lock
tightness
Adjust, tighten or replace
DRIVE CHAIN
Slack, lubricate. Retainer clip
security. Links:
- EN/ (112 links)
- EXTREME (112/114 links)
Adjust, tighten, lubricate or
replace
SPROCKETS
Wear and secure installation
Tighten or replace
SEAT
Security
Tighten or replace hook or
fixation rivets
NUTS, BOLTS, FASTENERS
Tightness
Tighten
REAR BRAKE HOSE
Check position to avoid contact with
muffler, damage
Check, replace
REAR BRAKE SWITCH
Check position to avoid contact with
muffler, damage
Check, tighten with plastic
clamp, replace
2-7
LIQUID COOLING
AJP PR5 250 is equipped with two aluminium
radiators located front.
In the right hand radiator is located the fan
thermostat.
Cooling liquid
Cooling liquid absorbs engine heat and
transfers it in the radiators to outsider air, to
cool engine temperature.
If cooling liquid level is too low, cooling circuit
fills with air and heat transfer capacity
decrease that may cause engine overheating
and damage.
Liquid cooling level
It is very important to check frequently antifreeze level
Perform the checking when engine is cold.
Left hand radiator:
Level the motorcycle horizontal and vertical.
Remove left radiator cap (1), placed on the
top of left radiator.
1
In the left hand radiator is located cap and
breather tube.
Make sure that breather tube is not damaged
and is in the right position.
Check if the level is 5mm below the radiator
top(2).
Right hand radiator
2
If level is below the specified, refill with cooling
liquid.
2-8
Cooling liquid replacement
Cooling liquid must be replaced each 2 years.
To drain cooling liquid, untighten drain bolt (1)
on the water pump cover.
Note:
The minimum temperature specific of the
cooling liquid depends on the minimum
temperature which motorcycle will be used.
Choose a cooling liquid that resists a
minimum temperature below 5/10ºC to the
minimum expected temperature on winter.
! WARNING !
Never use tap water.
Use always distilled water with corrosion
inhibitors and anti-freeze. If regular water
is used, rust and limestone will occur and
restrict and damage engine cooling
system.
Cooling liquid for aluminium radiators has
anti-freeze and anti-corrosion properties.
If regular water (tap) is added, those
properties will be lost and corrosion will
occur.
Use cooling liquid mixture according to
manufacturer’s instructions.
Recommended cooling liquid
ENI/AGIP PERMANENT SPEZIAL – 40o C
(CUNA NC 956-16)
Added liquid to circuit should be a mixture of
0,5 L of distilled water plus 0,5 L of ENI
PERMANENT SPEZIAL
Cooling system capacity: 1 litre
! WARNING !
Never check cooling liquid level when
engine is hot. Liquid inside radiator is at
1.1 bar and when cap is removed, liquid
may spill and cause burns or injuries.
1
Place below the engine a sink to collect the
used liquid and let all the liquid out.
Before fill with cooling liquid, proceed with
circuit cleaning. With draining bolt out, add 3
litres of distilled water and let it out.
After draining, tight the bolt (1), with
corresponding copper sealing washer at the
water pump cover, with specified torque.
Torque: 10 N.m (1,0 Kgf.m)
Thru the left radiator hole, add one litre of new
cooling liquid.
Clean immediately any cooling liquid that
spills overs frame, engine or tires.
If cooling liquid spills over tires, they may
become slippery and cause an accident.
2-9
! WARNING !
Never run engine without cooling liquid or
with low level. Engine will overheat and
damage.
! WARNING !
Never cover radiators frontal and rear
surfaces. This will impede heat Exchange
and cause engine overheat.
In case of a fall, check if radiators are
damaged. Replace then if necessary.
If right radiator is damaged, it may
impede fan to work properly and cause
engine overheat or shortcut on the
electric system.
Inspection
To avoid burns, never remove radiator cap,
nor try to refill cooling liquid with a hot engine.
Wait until engine cools down.
- Check cooling liquid:
If white spots are seen, means that liquid is
corroding aluminium. If liquid is brown, means
that rust is occurring. In either cases, visit an
AJP dealer to clean and check cooling
system.
- Radiators and liquid cooling tubes
Check if liquid cooling tubes present cracks or
other damages that may cause liquid leaks.
In case of a fall, check if right radiator is
damaged and if fan is working properly. If fan
is not working, replace it.
Replace any radiator with a leak or
excessively warped.
Do not allow any strange objects to interfere
with fan.
Keep radiators fins cleaned to guarantee
radiators efficiency. If they are dirt, heat
transfer will be limited.
When cleaning, avoid directing high pressure
water to radiators fins.
Do not change or replace radiator covers A
wrong design does not guarantee the right
flow to the radiators.
Installing non approved accessories by AJP
may cause overheating and engine damage.
Radiator fan
Radiator fan has a diode installed and
switches on when cooling liquid reaches 95ºC.
Switches off when temperature goes below
80ºC.
! WARNING !
Use only cooling liquid approved by AJP
The use of other liquids, as tap or mineral
water may lead to system oxidation and a
later damage.
Do not mix different cooling liquids, from
different makes.
2 - 10
! WARNING !
While engine is hot, never remove
radiator cap, drain bolt or the tubes of
cooling system. Cooling liquid is hot are
under pressure and may cause severe
injuries.
When engine is cold, place a thick cloth
over radiator cap and turn it slowly
counter clockwise to relief inside
pressure. When pressure is relieved,
push cap down and turn it to remove it.
Cooling liquid is hazard, if contacts with
eyes and skin. Use always adequate
protection (gloves, mask and adequate
googles). In case of contact, wash with
water abundantly and ask for medical
assistance.
Cooling liquids are toxic. Do not drink
them. Keep them away from children. In
case of ingestion ask for medical
assistance.
Cooling liquid spilling over the floor cause
soil and water reserves contamination.
Perform
radiators
service
in
an
appropriate
location,
following
environmental regulations.
Before proceed with liquid level checking, wait
from 5 to 10 minutes to allow cooling liquid to
settle in the cooling circuit.
Check liquid level following previously
described procedure.
RADIATOR CAP INSPECTION
Check sealing washer (1).
Check valve spring and spring seat (2) at cap
COOLING LIQUID PREPARATION
Change/Replace: 1 litter
0,5 L of distilled water + 0,5 L of ENI
PERMANENT SPEZIAL
Other cooling liquids may require different
proportions.
Follow
manufacturer’s
instructions.
While adding liquid, squeeze several times
circuit tubes, to allow air to be purged from the
cooling system.
Note:
This procedure should be performed with
engine running but cold, giving some throttle
opening to promote cooling liquid circulation.
When no more air bubbles are seen, system
is purged.
If there are cracks at the sealing or any other
damage on the spring or valve, replace
radiator cap.
RADIATOR CAP PRESSURE TEST
Apply distilled water at cap sealing.
Apply specified pressure.
OPENING PRESSURE: 110kPa (1,1 kg/cm2,
15,6 psi)
Check pressure with a manometer (3). If
specified pressure does not hold for 10
seconds, cap must be replaced.
2 - 11
When there is a need to replace temperature
sensor please check also bypass “T” and
remaining water pipes;
Untighten upper water pipes fixation clamps,
disassemble all “L” pipes set with bypass “T”
and water sensor on it;
Place “T” on an adequate tool and untighten
temperature
sensor
without
damaging
aluminium “T”.
COOLING SYSTEM INSPECTION
Check level of liquid cooling;
Refill if necessary;
Connect control manometer;
Apply radiator’s specified pressure.
Perform installation with the reverse order.
Maximum pressure to apply during
radiator’s test: 180kPa (1,8 kg/cm2; 25,6Psi)
Note: During the test never exceed specified
pressure, otherwise radiator may be
damaged.
If specified pressure does not hold for at least
10 seconds, it is necessary to repair cooling
system (radiators or pipes);
If there is any leak, cooling system must be
repaired, replacing damaged components.
Check the following components:
- Cooling pipes;
If they present cracks or other damage,
replace them;
During installation certify that pipe (1) that
connects water pump to left radiator does not
touch exhaust pipe (2);
Place correctly plastic clamps and tight them
with the right torque to avoid damaging any
pipe.
Refill liquid coolant liquid and level check
accordingly
the
previously
described
procedures.
! WARNING !
Never perform a radiator’s level check
while engine is hot. Coolant liquid is
under pressure and high temperature and
it may cause severe burning.
ENGINE OIL
Engine oil level must be checked every day.
Engine oil level check
2
1
Place motorcycle vertically and in an
horizontal surface. Oil level is checked trough
a glass at the fight crankcase cover. When
engine is hot, oil level should be between MIN
and MAX marks.
1
2 - 12
! WARNING !
Engine oil level should be checked daily or
before any ride.
If necessary you should add oil to keep
always oil level between maximum and lower
mark.
Máx.
! DANGER !
Min.
Plastic cover oil level check
In engines with the right crankcase cover in
plastic, MAX level (2) corresponds to the
upper limit of glass. MIN level (1) corresponds
to the bottom limit of the glass.
Insufficient engine oil or poor quality may
cause severe damage to the engine.
Never operate your motorcycle with low
engine oil level or with non-adequate engine
oil quality.
Engine oil change
Engine oil has to be changed with the engine
being at operating temperature.
If engine is not warm, start engine and let it
idle for 5 minutes;
EXTREME version: remove engine sump (1).
2
1
1
! DANGER !
In case of an oil leak through glass or other
any issue with the plastic cover, it should be
immediately repaired, even with the
replacement of the cover. It may cause
severe oil leak and lead to engine damage.
Engine oil quality
Use only branded oils for four stroke engines,
meeting
or
surpassing
the
quality
requirements of API classes SG.
Engine oil capacity: 1,7 litres
Brand: Eni – Agip
Type: i-Ride moto 4T
Viscosity: SAE 10W-50 (20W-50)
Specifications: API SG JASO MA, MA2
1
Place motorcycle on a flat, horizontal surface,
supported by the side stand. Remove drain
plug below left crankcase and let engine oil to
drain to an adequate container for later
recycling.
Never throw away used engine oil into soil,
garbage, water lines or sewers.
Note: Change engine oil with a warm engine
and to assure complete draining, motorcycle
should tilt to the left, supported by the side
stand;
2 - 13
! DANGER !
! WARNING !
Do not start engine neither keep it running
on a close area. Exhaust gases are
poisonous and may cause loose of
consciousness or even dead. Check that
there is adequate ventilation while engine is
running.
Do not keep engine running more than 5
minutes when motorcycle is stopped;
engine may overheat and may be damaged
severely.
An engine at operating temperature and
engine oil it contains are very hot. Please
take all cares to avoid burning yourself.
Notes: if necessary, it is recommended to
apply PTFE (1) around drain plug thread (2) to
ensure a perfect tightness.
1
2
Engine oil drain plug
This drain plug is magnetic and it is located
below engine, at left crankcase.
Remove oil drain plug (1), with a 17mm key.
Please keep sealing washer;
Gently insert drain plug at threaded hole to
avoid damaging crankcase thread.
1
OIL FILTERS
PR5 engine is equipped with three reusable
filters: a main filter and two auxiliaries.
Oil filters aspect:
Drain engine oil to an adequate container to
avoid spill on the floor;
Wash drain plug with solvent and then clean it
with compressed air to eliminate existing
filings.
Check if sealing washer is damaged; if so,
replace it.
Insert the sealing washer in the drain plug and
tight it with the specified torque, to avoid
damaging crankcase thread.
! DANGER !
Main oil filter removal
Remove cover of main oil filter (1) below right
crankcase and remove main oil filter with a
plier without damaging it.
Remove engine oil, grease, filters, fuel and
detergents correctly. Any under circumstance
used oil may be drained to sewers or ground.
Please remember that 1 litter of engine oil
contaminates 1.000.000 litters of water!
2 - 14
and that will cause severe damage to engine
due to insuficiente lubrication.
1
1
Oil filters maintenance
PR5 LC oil filters are reusable.
Wash main oil filter together with its cover in
solvent and clean it with compressed air.
The other oil filter end with valve (2) faces
outward.
Check oil filter. Replace it if it is damaged.
2
Main oil filter installation
Check cover’s O-ring (1) and replace it if
necessary.
Check that main oil filter is positioned
correctly;
1
Place correctly cover over the main oil filter
and tight bolts carefully to avoid damaging
cover.
Oil filter end with the hole (1) must face
engine’s interior. If filter is positioned
backwards, lubrication circuit will be blocked
Note: Certify that oil filter cover screws have
16 mm length. If not, replace them by new
ones with correct dimensions.
2 - 15
Install the cover with O-ring sealing and
tighten it with two M5x16 bolts.
2
1
! WARNING !
To avoid damage engine due to
insufficient lubrication, it is important to
assure that the main oil filter is installed
in the right position.
The end with the hole has to be faced to
the inner side of engine crankshaft.
Once all the oil is out, clean the sealing
surface, assemble the draining plug with the
sealing washer below the left crankcase and
tight it with the specified torque to avoid
damaging the thread.
Torques:
- Oil cleaner filter plug/cover: 19N.m
(1,9Kgf.m).
- Main oil filter cover screw: 8N.m (0,8Kgf.m).
Remove cover (1) carefully to avoid burning
yourself on the exhaust pipe.
Oil cleaner filters
Look:
1
Use a funnel to fill oil in the engine.
Remove from both oil filters the plug for oil
draining, one in the right crankcase and the
other in the left crankcase and if necessary
remove the filters with an appropriate plier.
Wash and clean the plugs with O-ring and the
oil draining filters (plastic tubular) and blow
them with compressed air to clean them.
Check the sealing O-rings and replace them if
necessary.
Start engine and let it idle for two minutes and
check if there is any leak.
Stop engine and check oil level again.
Repeat engine start and oil level control.
2 - 16
AIR FILTER
A dirt air filter constrains air flow, reducing
engine
output
and
increasing
fuel
consumption, so it is important to clean it
periodically.
Install engine skid plate (1) on Extreme
version.
Air filter maintenance
PR5 250 LC air filter requires a regular and
careful maintenance.
Washing, cleaning and regular lubrication of
sponge element of air filter is vital to avoid
early wear of engine segments, piston,
cylinder and valves and ensure a good engine
functioning.
Note: If the motorcycle is used regularly on
dusty or muddy (wet conditions) off road
tracks we recommend that air filter washing,
cleaning and lubrication be more frequent
than what is mentioned in “MAINTENANCE
CALENDAR”.
Air filter removal
Remove seat;
1
2
! DANGER !
Used engine oil may cause skin cancer if
in contact with skin for long periods. It is
mandatory
to
wash
your
hand
immediately with water and soap after
handling with used oil.
! DANGER !
Do not start engine or keep it running in a
closed area. Exhaust gases are
poisonous and may cause loss of
conscience or even death. Check that
there is proper ventilation while engine is
running.
Do not keep engine running more than 5
minutes while motorcycle is standing still;
engine may overheat and suffer serious
damages.
To remove seat, untighten closing screw
below rear fender (1) with a screw driver and
pull seat backwards to release seat at the
same time you lift it up.
1
Remove air filter fixation screw;
2 - 17
Separate air filter element from air filter box;
Remove metallic frame;
Remove air filter box only when it is necessary
to clean it;
Disassemble air filter box.
Wash air filter
compressed air.
box and
clean
it
with
Check if the fitting of the cover on the box is
correct to assure a perfect tightness.
Air filter box can be removed completed or
only its cover.
Note: While air filter is removed, must be
careful to avoid any dirt to pass inside engine
through intake manifold.
Cover intake manifold with a clean cloth.
If air filter box is twisted or damaged, it should
be replaced.
Air filter box installation
Apply sealing paste on the contact area
between air filter and box and in the hole of
2 - 18
the box with the throttle body and sealing Oring (39x1,5). Plug air filter box with throttle
body;
appropriate lubricant spray for polyurethane
foam filters.
Squeeze again air filter to remove excessive
lubricant.
! DANGER !
Never use gasoline or low flashing point
solvent. Foam can be damaged or an
explosion or fire may occur.
Air filter installation
Check air filter metallic frame.
If it is damaged replace it.
Install metallic frame inside air filter.
Install cover over air filter box.
Install air filter in the right way and tight
fixation screw M6x90 (1) with washer (2).
Air filter maintenance
Wash air filter with an appropriate solvent or
with a high flashing point, such as petrol or
kerosene; never use gasoline or diluents.
1
2
Squeeze and dry air filter with compressed air.
Notes:
 Do not squeeze to much air filter,
otherwise it can be damaged;
 An excess of solvent may cause
engine start to get difficult.
Torque: 10N.m (1.0Kgf.m)
Check if air filter foam is damaged or ripped. If
so, replace it.
To lubricate air filter foam apply 30cc of
gearbox lubricant (SAE 80W 90) or foam filter
lubricant, inside a plastic bag, or apply
2 - 19
! DANGER !
- Do not clean air filter with gasoline or
diluents once these products damage
foam.
- Keep air filter clean and lubricated to
assure an effective protection to engine
cylinder.
- If air filter is not installed or installed
improperly, dust and dirt may enter in the
engine and cause a quick wear of valves,
segments, piston and cylinder.
! DANGER !
During
throttle
body/injection
maintenance operations, to remove air
filter box, it is mandatory to avoid any dirt
to enter inside throttle body. Throttle
body hole must be covered and all
components must be cleaned and blown
with compressed air before assembly.
Switch ignition key on and start engine to
check engine functioning. Check if engine
starts easily.
After 3/5 minutes check if idle is stable.
Install seat and side panels.
FUEL FEED
FUEL
PR5-LC250 only uses unleaded gasoline with
a minimum of 95 octanes. Never use leaded
fuel.
Fuel tank cap
Rotate cap (1) counter clockwise to remove it.
To place in position, rotate it clockwise until it
is tight to ensure no fuel leaks.
1
Note: Do not allow mud or dirt to accumulate
over the cap cavities, to avoid obstruction or
damage of cap breather. If this happens, it
may cause fuel feed malfunction or engine
stalling.
Actuating fuel pump without fuel may cause
damages and lead to early wear.
Avoid running the engine with a low fuel level
in the fuel tank. To run safe, fuel tank should
carry at least three litters.
! DANGER !
Use of contaminated fuel may cause
severe damages on the fuel injection
components.
Certify that only unleaded fuel with 95
octanes or more is used!
During refill operations, pay attention to
avoid that water or any kind of dirt pass
inside fuel tank.
! DANGER !
If the motorcycle is not running for a long
period of time, fuel may deteriorate
chemically which may damage fuel pump
and injector.
Therefore, remove fuel from fuel tank and
feed line.
When use of motorcycle is resumed, fill
fuel tank with new gasoline, before restart
engine again.
2 - 20
! WARNING !
Due to transparency of fuel tank there is
no fuel instrument or warning sign for fuel
level. Visually control fuel level when start
engine or after some riding time.
! DANGER !
If engine has to run to perform some
task, check is area is well ventilated.
Never start engine in a closed room.
Exhaust gases contain carbon monoxide,
which may lead to loss of conscience or
dead.
Fuel tank and feed line maintenance
Check condition of fuel tank regarding bumps,
cracks or exhaust burn. If fuel tank is not in
perfect conditions, it shall be replaced.
Check if fuel pipes are damaged, with wear or
leaks. Replace them if necessary.
! DANGER !
Fuel is extremely explosive under certain
conditions. Be extremely cautious when
handling gasoline.
Do not smoke, start flames or sparks on
servicing area or where fuel is stored.
Stop engine before refuel.
Be careful not to spill gasoline on the engine
or exhaust when they are hot.
Clean immediately and fuel spill.
If gasoline is swallowed or spill to the eyes,
get medical assistance immediately.
Keep children and animals away from
gasoline.
Do not fill fuel tank up to cap level due to
volume expansion of gasoline when exposed
to heat.
A wrong installation of fuel pipes on fuel pump
may damage fuel pump for life and impeding
engine running.
Check fuel pipes connections to fuel pump:
Outlet pipe (1); return pipe (2); feed pipe (3).
Note: If there is any leak on the pipes, replace
them by new ones with same dimensions.
Fuel feed pipes length
Outlet pipe: 200mm;
Return pipe: 35mm;
Feed pipe: 300mm.
Fix pipe with appropriate clamps. Check if
clamps are in the right position and pipes are
well tighten.
2 - 21
Fuel system troubleshooting
Note: if front fixation of seat is broken, that
may damage pipe connection at the “T” and
cause a fuel leak.
Seat must be replaced if fixation is broken to
avoid damage fuel pump or fuel pipes.
Check if connection to injector is in good
conditions and if clamps are fixing pipes
correctly (1) as well the retaining clip in the
injector cap.
! DANGER !
If fuel tank is damaged, it must be
immediately replaced. Riding with a
damaged fuel tank may cause spill to
exhaust, which may cause a fire or to
rear tire, causing an accident.
! DANGER !
Fuel pipes must be installed at the right
position.
If throttle cable is in contact with fuel
pipe, it may cause loss of throttle control.
If engine’s not running:
Note: when ignition key is switched on, the
sound of fuel pump prime must be listened for
3/5 seconds; after that fuel system is under
pressure.
If fuel pump does not work
With a multimeter, perform following checks,
with key switched on:
- Check injection fuse: check if 15 A fuse
(blue), as well continuity between terminals of
fuse box.
- Check injection relay: it must be current all
the time on the terminal (30), even with key
switched off.
- Check fuel pump connector. At the white/red
terminal there must be always voltage (+12V)
when ignition key is ON and kill switch is in
ON position
- At the white wire terminal (-12V) is the signal
from ECU and there is present only for a few
seconds, so when the multimeter is connected
when ignition key is being switched ON,
voltage will be there for a few seconds.
- Check fuel pump electrical resistance.
Connect multimeter probes (in Ω) to the wire
terminals of fuel pump. Measured resistance
should be around 9,5Ω (4,5Ω ~ 11Ω are limit
values). If resistance is out of limits, fuel pump
is damaged.
- If fuel pump produces na abnormal noise.
This may require removal of fuel pump out of
fuel tank, to disassemble fuel pump, replace
fishing pipe and put two bushing to support.
The new fishing pipe must have no more than
170 millimetres.
At the fuel pump motor two special bushings
must be installed, one at each end, to
eliminate wear and abnormal noise cause by
the vibration when pump is working.
If the outer aluminium case of the pump motor
shows excessive wear, the complete pump
must be replaced.
If this problem couldn’t be solved, then
complete fuel pump must be replaced. Page
3-20.
Most of problems occurred have its origin is
defective electrical contacts, due to water,
humidity or mud that deposits at the fuse
terminals or at the interface connectors
2 - 22
between injection and electrical system
harness.
For this reasons, it is very important to clean
motorcycle regularly, in particular if i tis ridden
in dust(dirt/mud) or too much wet, cleaning
and adequate care of electric contact is very
important to avoid corrosion and problems
with motorcycle. Check “Motorcycle cleaning”
Make slide dust protector (1) to reach tuner.
Untighten tuner nut (2);
Rotate tuner (3) out to reduce free play, rotate
inside to increase free play
Note: If fuel pump seems to work properly, a
pressure test must be performed.
THROTTLE OPERATION
With engine shutdown, check if throttle control
rotates without constrains from close to totally
open position.
Check that throttle grip opens smoothly to full
throttle with engine stopped.
Check after release throttle grip, it closes
automatically in any steering position.
When free play is correct, tight tuner nut.
Make slide dust protector to cover tuner.
Check correct throttle grip functioning after
adjustment.
Make sure there is no deterioration, damage,
or bending in the throttle cable.
To fine tuning, it is possible to adjust free play
on throttle body, adjusting cable tuner nut
Check that throttle grip free play is 2-6 mm at
the throttle grip flange.
Make slide dust protection (1) to reach tuner;
Untighten tuner nut (2);
Rotate tuner (3) clockwise to reduce free play,
rotate counter clockwise to increase free play.
With engine running, idle must not be affected
by turning handlebar completely left or right.
Adjustment
Adjustment is performed on the throttle cable.
Replace any damaged part before start
adjusting.
THROTTLE CABLE
Keep throttle cable with adequate lubrication.
2 - 23
Cable and throttle grip must be cleaned and
lubricated regularly, mostly if motorcycle is
ridden off road (dusty or wetly areas), to keep
a smooth operation.
Throttle grip disassembly
With a 4mm Allen key, loosen two M5 screws
and separate body and cover of throttle grip;
Move tuner protection rubber, loosen counter
nut and turn tuner until align longitudinal cut
with body slot;
Pull throttle cable end away from rotor and
remove throttle case;
Remove throttle grip tube;
Cut plastic clamps from brake switch;
Release square Molex 4P n that connects to
electrical wire to remove throttle case.
Clean all parts with an appropriate solvent and
let parts dry.
Note: If grip tube presents damages that
cause difficulty in throttle operation, replace it.
Check the correct functioning of start button
and kill switch. If it is damaged, replace the
complete set.
Throttle grip assembly
Perform assembly by the reverse order of
disassembly.
Apply lubricant at the end of throttle cable and
inside guide (white part in nylon).
Place cable end at the rotor of throttle grip,
install inside guide cable in the right position,
passing cable by the case slot and tuner.
Turn gently tuner and tight softly counter nut.
Install cover over the body and slightly tight
two screws.
Place throttle grip on the handlebar and adjust
assembly position, checking that grip rotates
freely.
Tight two cover screws and check free and
smooth operation of throttle cable.
Throttle cable replacement
Remove seat and right side cover;
Remove air filter box;
Remove two screws and ECU fixation
spacers;
Remove throttle grip screws and pull aside
both parts to remove cable. To do that,
untighten tuner and the cable at metallic
support.
Remove cable lower end at throttle body to
remove the cable.
Assembly
Perform assembly in the reverse order of
removal.
Note: before proceed with assembly, check
air filter and throttle body and perform
adequate operations to right maintenance.
CLUTCH
CLUTCH CABLE
Clutch actuation must not be affected by
turning handlebar left or fight.
Note: when there is need to replace throttle
cable, previously lubricate the new cable,
install it on the right position, checking that
throttle cable is not squeezed.
2 - 24
Keep always clean and lubricated clutch cable
for a smoother operation. Apply lubrication on
the contact area of lever and tuner.
Lever free play: 8 – 13mm
ADJUSTMENT
Minor adjustments are made in the lever
tuner
Standard lever
Pull the cover back;
Loosen the lock nut and turn the tuner;
Rotate adjusting nut, until free play is between
8 – 13 mm,
When free play is correct, tight the lock nut
and install the cover.
Check clutch operation.
Adjust axial play by untighten counter nut and
tighten pivot screw.
Reikon lever must operate freely and with the
least axial play.
If necessary, apply lubricant grease at pivot
screw.
Note: Major adjustments of clutch cable are
performed at the lower tuner on the left
crankcase cover or even in the lever position
on the engine.
Reikon lever
Motorcycles equipped with Reikon clutch,
lever has a tuner with automatic fixation.
Check clutch lever position on the engine as
the retaining clip;
Untighten nut (1) and then tight nut (2) until
reach correct play on the clutch cable.
2 - 25
Check if terminal fits correctly at the lever and
if turns freely;
Install new cable in the right position, avoiding
bending that cause clutch being harder;
Check that cable is not squeezed between
radiator and frame tube.
1
2
If necessary, if cable tuner is at its limit, clutch
lever can be moved backwards, as following:
First, untighten completely lever tuner and
engine tuner;
Then, strait retaining tab (1) at the lever end
and release cable;
With a spanner release retaining clip (3), pull
clutch lever out (2) until remove it from the
shaft (4), rotate it one rib back (counter
clockwise) and place it again in the shaft.
Install retaining clip.
3
4
2
1
2
1
Clutch cable is installed from bottom to top
and follows this path:
- Pass in front of cylinder;
- Pass between left radiator and frame;
- Pass between battery and bypass tube;
- Pass by the slot at the left front grille;
- Pass close to dashboard and upper triple
clamp;
- Connects to clutch lever.
Install lower tuner on the support at the
flywheel cover and install cable terminal at
clutch lever. Apply lubricating grease at the
upper cable terminal and plug it on the lever.
Adjust free play accordingly to previously
described procedures.
Note: Please consider that due to regular
wear of clutch discs, free play tends to
disappear. If engine runs without correct lever
free play that may cause early discs wear. For
this reason, lever free play must be checked
and adjusted frequently.
SPARK PLUG
Removal
Clean around the base with compressed air.
Disconnect spark pipe (1) and remove spark
plug with an appropriate 16mm key.
1
Install lever cable terminal and adjust retaining
tab. Install dust protection rubber on the right
position.
Note: when removing spark plug be careful to
not damage sensor terminals (1) of radiator
fan.
Adjust cable play first at engine cover and
then at clutch lever.
Check clutch operation.
Clutch cable replacement
Note: when there is a need to replace PR5
clutch cable, use an original AJP spare part.
Previously lubricate cable;
1
2 - 26
Spark plug inspection
Visually inspect spark plug.
Check the following and replace if necessary:
 Ceramic insulator broken or with cracks;
 Electrodes with wear;
 Electrodes colours:
o Slightly
dark
means
good
condition;
o Too
much
bright
means
malfunction or lean mixture;
o Dark, wet or with coal deposits
means rich mixture.
Recommended spark plug
Standard : CHAMPION RG6YC
Equivalent : NGK CR8E
Electrode gap: 0,7 – 0,8mm
Adjust
Measure electrode gap with a gauge (1).
Adjust gap gently bending the electrode.
If a dynamometric key could be used, please
follow specified torque:
Torque: 13N.m (1,3Kgf.m)
! WARNING !
Do not pass the specified torque value.
Applying a higher torque may lead to
damage engine head thread or make
later removal of spark plug impossible.
VALVE CLEARANCE
NOTE: Inspect and adjust valve clearance
while engine is cold (below 35ºC)
Remove engine sump;
Place motorcycle on a stable support;
Remove seat and front side covers;
Switch off ignition key, remove battery cables
terminals and remove battery;
Remove battery support and remove
connector at current rectifier;
Remove valve hole caps.
Remove crankshaft hole cap and timing hole
cap.
Reuse of a spark plug
Clean the electrodes of spark plug with a wire
brush or a special cleaning agent for spark
plugs.
Replacement of a spark plug
Select a new spark plug.
Check and adjust gap with a gap gauge.
Assembly
Align by hand spark plug and tight as much by
hand;
If a new spark plug is being installed, tight it ½
more after washer is tight. If a reused spark
plug is being installed, tight it 1/4 more after
washer is tight.
Remove crankshaft hole cover.
Insert a 12mm key on the flywheel nut to
place piston on Top Dead Center in
compression stage;
2 - 27
1
2
3
Rotate flywheel counter clock wise until valve
rocker harms get no clearance.
Watch by the timing hole at left crankcase that
the flywheel mark is aligned with the mark
existent in the hole close to stator.
In that position, marks “L” and “R” of timing
gear must be aligned with timing holes marks
at engine head.
Rotate flywheel counter clock wise 2 or 3
turns to align “T” mark with mark existing at
crankcase.
Confirm that piston is at Top Dead Center
(TDC), at compression stage.
Check 4 valves clearance with a clearance
gauge between tuning screw and rocker arm.
Valve clearance:
Intake: 0,05mm (± 0,01 mm)
Exhaust: 0,08mm (± 0,01 mm)
Valve Clearance adjustment
Untight tuner nut (1);
Turn adjusting screw (2) until a slight friction is
felt at the gauge (3).
Tight fixation nut;
Torque of valve tuner nuts:
26N.m (2,6Kgf.m)
Check if O-rings are in good conditions,
replace if necessary.
Apply lubricant at O-rings.
Install valve covers (1) on the right position
(both are asymmetric) and tight to specified
torque.
Install timing holes cover on cylinder head and
left crankcase and tight it to specified value.
Place the cover at flywheel screw hole and
tight it to the specified torque.
CYLINDER COMPRESSION
Sometimes engine start is difficult and that
may be caused to low cylinder compression.
To control, it is necessary to perform a test to
cylinder compression to check if measured
values are normal or not.
Check clearance value and repeat this
operation until specified clearance is reached,
if necessary.
Procedure:
Start engine and let it idle until engine is at
normal running temperature.
Hold fixation screw and tight fixation nut.
Repeat this procedure over the other valves.
Stop engine
Remove ignition key
Remove fuel pump connector.
Remove spark plug pipe and remove spark
plug.
2 - 28
Plug pressure gauge at the spark plug hole.
Note: certify that there is no loss of pressure
on the connection between adaptor and
pressure gauge.
Rotate throttle to the maximum aperture
position.
Press start button during 5 seconds and check
gauge value.
Note: do not press start button more than 5
seconds, to avoid discharging battery.
CYLINDER
(11,0Kgf/cm2)
COMPRESSION:
KPa
If compression is low (under 10,0 kgf/cm2)
introduce a small amount of oil through the
spark plug hole and repeat the measure
procedure.
- If compression raises, it means piston,
cylinder and segments may be worn;
- If compression remains low, inspect valves
and valve seeds.
If compression is high, above the standard
value, it may be caused by:
- Coal deposits on combustion chamber and
piston crown.
STEERING STEM
Check steering
periodically.
head
bearings
for
play
Other way to inspect steering stem bearings
play, is to raise front wheel from the floor and
grabbing front wheel axel, try to move it back
and forward.
Bearing play adjustment:
For readjusting, loosen top nut (2) and the
four bolts (1) of the top triple clamp and turn
steering stem bolt (3) clockwise until there is
no more play.
Don’t tighten the steering stem bolt (3) all the
way; otherwise the bearings will be damaged.
With a plastic hammer, lightly rap on the triple
clamp to release tension and retighten the
bolts. Then tight top nut (2) and the top triple
clamp screws (1).
Steering head bearings should be greased at
least once a year.
For check place motorcycle on a stand so that
the front wheel is off the ground. Try to move
the fork forward and backward.
Check if control cables do not interfere with
handlebar rotation.
If handle rotates unsymmetrically, twist or
have vertical movement, check and adjust
steering stem bearings.
Procedure to check bearings play
Press brake lever and push several times
front fork down and with the left hand between
adjusting nut and steering stem check if there
is any play on the bearings.
1
2
3
Do not tight adjusting nut all the way
otherwise may be damaged. With a rubber
hammer, give some strokes on the upper
triple clamp to release stress and adjust
screws.
After that tight adjusting nut (2) and at last
tight upper triple clamps screws (1).
2 - 29
Note:
- Tight adjusting nut only enough to remove
bearings play. Pay attention to avoid over
tighten, it may impede handlebar to rotate.
- Tight steering stem bolt and check again
bearings play and if handlebar rotates freely.
Tight upper triple clamp fixation screws
according to specified torque, to avoid
damage triple clamps or front fork malfunction.
After some time, dirt accumulates behind dust
sealing. If this dirt is not removed, sealing
rings may suffer leaks and fork tubes may be
damaged.
Use a spanner to remove gently dust sealing
without damaging tubes and move them along
the tube.
Steering head bearings should be greased at
least once a year.
! DANGER !
If steering stem bearings are too lose or
too tight, they became damaged and
motorcycle may be unstable or out of
control.
! WARNING !
If motorcycle is ridden for a long time with
steering stem bearings with play, bearings
itself may damage and the slots at steering
tube may be damaged.
SUSPENSIONS
Clean dust sealings, outer tube and fork tubes
gently. Place sealings on place again on its
original position by hand.
Front Fork Enduro and Supermoto Set-up
(Sachs 48mm)
FRONT SUSPENSION
Check if front fork has leaks or damages.
Replace all components that cannot be
repaired.
Tight all screws and bolts with specified
torque.
To adjust rebound turn the inner screw (1)
clockwise to have a harder response. Turn
counter clockwise to have a softer response.
DUST SEALINGS
1
Dust sealings (1) function is to remove dust a
dirt from fork tubes.
2
1
To adjust spring load, turn adjusting nut (2).
2 - 30
3
3
To adjust compression, turn the lower screw
clockwise (3) for more compression; turn
counter clockwise for less compression.
! WARNING !
Unequal suspension adjustment can cause
poor handling and loss of stability.
Adjust the right and left front legs to the
same settings.
Front Fork Extreme Set-up (Marzocchi
48mm)
Front Fork Trail set-up
To adjust compression turn the inner screw
(1) on the left leg clockwise to have a harder
response. Turn counter clockwise to have a
softer response.
To adjust rebound turn the screw (2) on the
right leg clockwise to have a harder response.
Turn counter clockwise to have a softer
response.
To adjust compression turn the inner screw
(1) clockwise to have a harder response. Turn
counter clockwise to have a softer response.
1
1
2
2
Screw (3) placed on the lower end of the legs
of 40mm Marzocchi has no adjusting function;
it should only be removed for front fork
disassembly.
To adjust middle speed, turn adjusting nut (2).
To adjust rebound, turn the lower screw
clockwise (3) for more rebound; turn counter
clockwise for less rebound.
2 - 31
3
REAR SUSPENSION
Bounce the rear of motorcycle up and down
several times (5-10) to check for proper
operation.
Check if shock linkage, spherical bearing and
needle bearings are damaged.
Replace if necessary, together with their
respective nylon washers.
Rear suspension adjustment
PR5 is equipped with a fully adjustable shock
absorber, except Trail version.
To adjust pre-charge loose first the upper nut
(1), then turn adjusting nut (2) clockwise for
more pre-charge or counter clockwise for less
pre-charge.
1
2
Check entire rear suspension being sure
everything is securely mounted and not
damaged or distorted;
Tight all nuts and bolts to their specific torque
value.
Place the motorcycle on a work stand or box
to raise the rear wheel off the ground.
Move the rear wheel sideways with force to
see if the swing arm bearings are worn.
Replace if excessively worn.
3
To adjust rebound, turn the screw placed on
the bottom of the shock absorber (3)
clockwise for more rebound or counter
clockwise for less rebound.
2 - 32
To adjust fast compression damping, turn the
knob (4) clockwise for more rebound speed.
To reduce rebound speed turn counter
clockwise.
2
1
To adjust low compression damping, turn the
screw (5) clockwise for more rebound speed.
To reduce rebound speed turn counter
clockwise.
Standard set-up:
-
Spring length: Enduro 205mm; Supermoto
210mm
Fast compression: turn all to close position
(+) and then turn 12 clicks to open (-)
Low compression: turn all to close position
(+) and then turn 8 clicks to open (-)
Rebound: turn all to close position (H) and
then turn 12 clicks to open (S)
BRAKES
Brake pads
Brake pads used on front and rear brake
provide an optimal combination of power,
brake performance and lifecycle.
Checking front brake pads
The front brake pads can be inspected from
below. The linings must have at least 1 mm
thickness.
! WARNING !
Improper servicing of the rear shock
absorber assembly is dangerous.
The rear shock absorber contains highpressured gas and can explode if improperly
serviced.
Trail Version
PR5 Trail shock absorber only allows spring
pre-load.
To adjust spring pre-load, untighten fixation
bolt (1) of adjusting nut and turn nut (2) left or
right until obtain desired spring load.
Brake discs
Due to wear, the thickness of brake discs in
the area of the contact face (1) of the brake
pads decreases. At their thinnest point (A), the
brake discs must not be more than 0.50mm
thinner than the pads nominal thickness.
Measure the nominal thickness in a location
2 - 33
(B) outside the contact face and check for
wear in several locations.
Brake fluid
AJP fills the brake systems with DOT 4 brake
fluid.
Recommended brake fluid:
AGIP Brake Fluid DOT4
! DANGER !
If brake pads replacement is made too late,
when coating or wear layer is partially or
completely worn, steel plates will friction
against brake disc, reducing braking effect
and destroying brake disc.
! DANGER !
At their most worn point brake pad linings
should not be thinner than 1mm, otherwise
can lead to braking failure.
Brakes fluid level
Check brake fluid reservoir level (1) for the
front and rear brakes. If the level is near the
lower level mark, check the brake pad wear:
 If pads are worn, replace them;
 If pads are not worn, check if there is
no leak on braking system. Purge
braking system to eliminate air
bubbles.
After this check, add brake fluid DOT4, if it is
necessary to refill to oil level.
Brake fluid must be replaced at least every
two years.
Note: Brake fluid absorbs humidity, therefore
vapour bubbles form in “old” brake fluids even
at low temperatures and may cause brake
system failures.
- If motorcycle is used regularly in wet areas
or if it is washed very often, there may be a
need to replace brake fluids in shorter
intervals (once in a year).
- Do not remove front brake pump cover while
handlebar is not levelled and motorcycle in a
vertical position.
- Avoid actuating brake lever with cover out.
Brake fluid will spill if brake lever is actuated.
- Do not mix different oils, once they cannot
be compatibles.
- Avoid spilling fluid over painted parts made
of plastic or rubber. Place a cover over those
parts always braking system is being serviced.
! DANGER !
Brake fluid must be replaced at least every
two years.
Brake fluid absorbs humidity, therefore
vapour bubbles form in “old” brake fluids
even at low temperatures and may cause
brake system failures.
If motorcycle is used regularly in wet areas or
if it is washed very often, there may be a
need to replace brake fluids in shorter
intervals (once in a year).
2 - 34
! DANGER !
For own safety, replace brake discs once
they reach their wear limit (3mm
thickness).
All braking service operations must be
performed at an AJP dealer.
Brake fluid reservoirs
Brake
fluid
reservoirs
are
designed
compensate pads wear.
If fluid level goes down below minimum,
means that braking system has a leak or
brake pads are completely worn.
! WARNING !
Do not place brake fluid in contact with
ink; it is a powerful ink remover.
Use only clean brake fluid from a sealed
bottle or hermetically closed.
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL CHECK
Front brake:
Brake fluid reservoir is linked with the hand
brake cylinder at the handlebar and the
reservoir is provided with an inspection glass
(1). With the reservoir in horizontal position,
the brake fluid level should not drop below the
middle of the glass.
! WARNING !
Store brake fluid out of reach of children.
Brake fluid can cause skin irritation. Avoid
contact with skin and eyes. If you get brake
fluid in your eyes, clear with plenty of water
and consult a doctor.
Replace membrane and cover if they are
damaged and tight screws.
1
If spills, clean spilled fluid with water and dry it
with compressed air.
REAR BRAKE
Refilling front brake fluid reservoir
Loosen screws (1), remove lid (2) and
membrane (3). Place hand brake cylinder in a
horizontal position and fill the brake fluid
reservoir up to the MAX mark with clean brake
fluid DOT 4. Replace membrane, lid and
tighten screws if damaged. Clear off spilled or
overflowing brake fluid with water.
Checking rear brake fluid level
The reservoir for the rear disc brake is
integrated in brake pump, placed in the right
side of the engine, near exhaust pipe.
Brake fluid level must not drop below the
“MIN” marking when the vehicle is in an
upright position.
2 - 35
Remove clips and the brake pads from the
calliper.
Clean the brake calliper and calliper support
with compressed air. Check the sleeves of the
guide bolts for damage and grease guide bolts
if necessary.
Refilling the rear brake fluid reservoir
Remove cover fixation screws (1);
Remove cover (2) and pump diaphragm;
Add DOT4 fluid brakes until the MAX mark at
the reservoir glass.
Install diaphragm and tight reservoir cover,
clean spilled fluid with water and dry with
compressed air.
Actuate front brake lever and/or rear brake
pedal to check if there is no air in.
If there is a smooth or spongy feeling there is
a need to bleed brake system.
Check the condition of tubes and fixations. If
there is deterioration, cracks or leaks, replace
components or place new sealing washers.
Tight lose fixations.
Mount both brake pads and then insert the
clips the right way, to allow brake pads to
jump off or lose, in order to avoid accidents.
Tight the pegs over the clips at the front
calliper (if exist in the model).
Install calliper on the fork with the disc aligned
between both pads and tight bracket in the
fork.
Replacing front brake pads
Remove calliper assembly away front fork,
unscrewing screws (1). Press the brake
calliper away from brake disc to put the brake
piston in its basic position.
1
Press brake lever several times until brake
gets tough and certify that front wheel spins
freely.
2 - 36
! WARNING !
Do not actuate front brake lever while pads
are being replaced or front wheel is out
Replacing the rear brake pads
Remove the rear wheel and with a screwdriver
push the brake pads to move the piston into
its basic position. Remove clip (1) and then
remove brake pads from the calliper. Clean
the brake calliper thoroughly with compressed
air, insert brake pads and secure them with
the clip. Then place rear wheel back on.
1
1
Adjustment:
Untighten fixation nut (2);
Turn tuning stud (3) to increase or reduce
pedal height;
Measure the distance between sphere and
fixation pump screw(4);
When distance is correct (5), tight fixation nut.
STANDARD: 93,0 mm
Press brake lever several times until rear
brake pressure backs up and certify that front
wheel spins freely.
Standard distance between counter nut of
adjusting stud and counter nut of brake pedal
(6):
STANDARD: 12,5mm
! WARNING !
In case of replacement of rear brake
tube, it is important to certify its correct
position, to ensure that the tube never
contacts with the exhaust, due to the
swing arm vertical movement, nor get
squeezed between the swing arm and
brake pump.
CHANGING THE BASIC POSITION OF
THE BRAKE PEDAL
Free play can be changed by turning piston
(1).
Measured on the outside, the foot brake pedal
must have 3 to 5 mm of free play, before the
piston rod can move the piston in the rear
brake cylinder.
! DANGER !
If free play is not present, then pressure
can build up in the brake system when
driving, causing rear wheel to brake. Brake
system can overheat and may even
completely fail in extreme cases.
Don’t ride with foot pressing rear brake
pedal.
2 - 37
WHEELS
FRONT WHEEL REMOVAL
3
Front wheel dismounting
To remove the front wheel, jack the
motorcycle up on its frame so that the front
wheel no longer touches the ground.
Loosen the two screws (1) on left leg of front
fork, unscrew front axle (2), hold the wheel
and remove front axle. Remove front wheel
carefully from the fork.
Note: Extreme motorcycles produced from
February 2014 have a threaded bushing
aligned with the outer face of fork end.
! WARNING !
Do not actuate front brake lever while front
wheel is out.
1
2
If it is necessary to remove it, measure with a
caliper the distance out of axle holder, in order
to place it correctly later in assembly.
Note: Threaded bushing (3) of front wheel
axle should not be untighten nor removed
unnecessarily from right tube end, once it is
that part that determines the position of wheel
in the fork (Sachs or Marzocchi 48mm). If
there is a need to remove it, measure with a
calliper rule and note the distance to the outer
face of fork end in a way to allow later its
correct positioning and installation.
The reference position to install threaded
bushing at the end of the right tube, measured
by the outer face of the tube end is:
EN/SM (with SACHS 48mm):
Bushing 73mm, out 3mm
EXTREME (with MARZOCCHI 48mm):
Bushing 65mm, out 10mm
Front wheel mounting
Place front wheel between front fork sleeves
in a way that brake disc is between brake
pads.
Tight front axle and tight fixation screws.
Check if front wheel rotates freely without any
restrain.
! DANGER !
After mounting front wheel, actuate hand
brake lever until pressure point is
established.
Keep brake discs free from oil and fatty
materials, otherwise braking effect will be
strongly reduced.
REAR WHEEL
Rear wheel removal
Place motorcycle over a support, in a way that
real wheel do not touch ground.
Untighten nut (1), hold rear wheel and remove
axle (2) by the left side until wheel is free but
brake calliper remains placed at the swing
arm.
2 - 38
SPOKES
Spoke tension control
A correct spoke tension is very important to
ensure stability and a safe riding.
2
1
3
Push rear wheel frontwards the more you can,
remove sprocket chain and remove carefully
wheel from swing arm.
! WARNING !
Do not actuate rear brake pedal while rear
wheel is out.
If wheel axle is out, clean the thread and
apply a layer of grease to avoid thread
deterioration.
Check spoke tension, especially in new
motorcycles regularly. If necessary, tight
spokes and wheel during maintenance
services.
Tight spoke heads and tube-tire fixation (1).
Rear wheel assembly
To assembler rear wheel, follow the reverse
procedure, having the care to place rear brake
disc between brake pads. Certify that wheel
guides are touching tuners (3) and that both
have the same setting.
! DANGER !
Certify that rear brake disc is placed
between both brake pads when wheel is
being positioned, otherwise disc can be
damaged.
Keep disc free of oil, grease, otherwise
braking power will be largely reduced.
Tight axle nut with specified torque. A loose
wheel may lead to unstable behaviour or
cause an accident.
Torque:
Spoke head: 3.8N.m (0,38Kgf.m)
Tube-tire fixation: 15N.m (1,5Kgf.m)
Pull and push sideways rear wheel to check if
swing arm has play.
After assembler rear wheel, actuate rear
brake pedal several times until pressure is
re-established on rear brake system.
2 - 39
Cold pressure values
! DANGER !
Spokes may break if they are loose. That
may lead to unstable behaviour and cause
an accident.
TIRES
Check if tires have punctures, nails or other
sharp objects that may imbedded in tire
surface.
Check trail depth.
Service limit: 3 mm
Tire pressure
Model
Cold tire pressure
Front Enduro
150KPa (1,5Kgf/cm2)
Extreme
Enduro
100 -150KPa (1,0 - 1,5
Kgf/cm2) Depends on
track conditions
Front
Rear Enduro
175 KPa (1,75 Kgf/cm2)
Racing Rear
Enduro
100 -150 KPa (1,0 - 1,5
Kgf/cm2) Depends on
track conditions
Front Supermoto
175 KPa (1,75 Kgf/cm2)
Rear Supermoto
200 KPa (2,0 Kgf/cm2)
NOTE:
- Pressure should be checked when the
tires are cold (less than 30ºC).
- Pressure values are for a road use. For a
off-road use of Enduro and Extreme
versions, we recommend a lower
pressure, to ensure better traction. For this
use we recommend 1,0 bar (14 psi) in
both tires. Please note this is a reference
value and pressure must be adjusted to
the use.
Tire dimensions
Front Enduro
Michelin 90/90 – 21
Rear Enduro
Racing Rear
Enduro
Michelin 130/80 – 18’’
Front
Supermoto
Rear Supermoto
Michelin 130/70 - 17
! DANGER !
If tire pressure is to low, there will be
abnormal wear and tire overheating.
Use of worn tires, wrong pressure or nonhomologated reduce stability and may
cause an accident
2 - 40
! DANGER !
! WARNING !
Do not install tires that are not approved by
AJP. Front and rear tire must have same
track.
Always use homologated tires. Nonhomologated tires may affect riding safety.
For rider’s safety, replace damaged tires
immediately.
Worn tires have a negative effect on riding
safety, especially on wet ground.
Be sure that both adjusters are at same
position. If that does not happen, drive chain
will be misaligned with sprocket, causing
excessive wear and the chance to drive
chain to go out.
Align rear wheel tuners in a way that both
sliders are aligned by the same marks at left
and right.
DRIVE CHAIN
Chain adjustment
Chain slack must be between 30-40mm at
middle point between chain guide and rear
sprocket.
If those marks are not there or not visible,
measure distance at the tuners from both
sides. Adjust and check that distance is the
same at both sides.
Tight axle nut and tight tuners counter nut.
Adjustment
Loosen the rear axle nut (1);
Loosen adjusters bolts tighten nuts (2)
With a 13mm key, turn both adjusters bolts (3)
equally until the chain slack is correct.
Tight rear wheel nut.
Torque: 93N.m (9,5kgf.m)
Recheck chain slack and free wheel rotation.
! WARNING !
Press several time rear brake pedal and
check if brake is actuating. Perform always
this operation to assure that rear brake is
working.
Drive chain maintenance
A good maintenance is very important for a
long life. Chain without O-rings must be
cleaned in fire proof solvent and lubricated
with grease or chain spray.
Chains with O-rings are easier to clean: the
best way is to use water but without brush or
cleaning liquids. After chain is dry apply chain
2 - 41
spray. Check if pinion teeth, sprocket teeth
and chain guide are worn. Replace if
necessary.
When the drive chain becomes extremely
dirty, it should be removed and cleaned prior
to lubrication.
Removal
Remove drive sprocket cover;
Remove chain retainer clip carefully (1);
Remove master link;
Remove drive chain.
RACING DRIVE CHAIN
DID 520VX/114L–5/8’’x1/4’’
RK 52050-114L–5/8’’x1/4’’
JC 520X1R -112/114DL
Lubricate drive chain with specific spray for
drive chains, that won’t damage O-rings.
! DANGER !
Chain lubrication must not spill to rear
brake or rear tire, otherwise adherence
and braking capacity will be decreased
and rider may lost motorcycle control.
Drive pinion
Inspect the sprocket teeth for excessive wear
or damage:
(1) Wear; (2) Normal, (3) Damaged
Replace if necessary.
! WARNING !
Be careful not to lose the O-rings when the
clip and master link are removed.
Clean the drive chain with a non-flammable or
high flash point solvent or kerosene that will
not damage the O-rings; wipe dry.
! WARNING !
DO not use a steam cleaner or high
pressure washer because these will damage
the O-rings.
Note: Never install a new drive chain on worn
sprockets or a worn chain on new sprockets.
Both chain and sprockets must be in good
condition, or the new replacement parts will
wear rapidly.
Drive sprocket removal
Remove drive sprocket cover.
Inspect the drive chain and O-rings for
possible wear or damage. Replace the chain if
it is worn excessively or damaged.
Measure drive chain length with the chain held
on a flat surface so that all links are straight.
DRIVE CHAIN
RK/DID 520 – 5/8’’x1/4’’ – 110 links – SM
RK/DID 520 – 5/8’’x1/4’’ – 112 links– Enduro
2 - 42
! WARNING !
Ensure that both tuners are in same
position. If that doesn’t happen chain will
be misaligned which may origin
excessive wear or chain get off
sprockets.
Place engine in 1st gear.
Untight drive sprocket fixation screw, using a
pneumatic wrench with a 15mm tool.
Remove drive sprocket, pulling it out drive
shaft.
Install a new sprocket, with the cam facing
out.
Apply thread glue (Loctite 240) on the screw
and tight drive sprocket with specified torque.
Torque: 93N.m (9,5kgf.m)
Chain assembly
Install chain by passing it over swing arm
protection, by drive sprocket and below swing
arm over the nylon roll and then by the guide.
Place chain on the sprocket, joining both ends
with retaining clip.
! DANGER !
Chain
excessive
tension
place
additional load on all secondary
transmission
components
(chain,
bearings,
rear
wheel).
Beyond
premature wear, chain or engine
crankshaft may break.
Chain excessive loose may result chain
jump over drive sprocket and rear
sprocket. If this happens, chain may
block rear wheel or damage engine.
In both cases, rider may lost motorcycle
control and cause an accident.
DRIVE CHAIN SLIDER
Inspect chain guide slider for wear and
replace it if you can see the chain through the
wear limit opening.
Note: Install the master link with O-rings and a
chain retaining clip pointed to chain and wheel
rotation way;
Install the drive sprocket cover;
Adjust the drive chain
! DANGER !
Do not assemble drive chain without the
four master link O-rings.
Be sure that there is no space between the
master link and the chain retainer clip.
Swing arm protection
Check chain slider for wear;
If it is damaged or warn out replace it.
! DANGER !
Take care to prevent catching your
fingers between the chain and sprocket.
2 - 43
BATTERY
PR5 battery has a closed system and
therefore requires no maintenance (MF).
SERVICE LIMIT:
Chain slider (from upper surface): 4.0 mm
! WARNING !
If the chain slider becomes worn through to
the swing arm the chain will wear against
the swing arm.
Battery type:
YTZ7S / FTZ7S (12V6A)
BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
NOTE: there is no regulation for rear brake
light, because it is a hydraulic switch.
Actuating front brake lever, check if brake light
lights up before effective braking.
If light does not light up correctly, adjust lever
tuner in a way that switch contacts on the right
position or replace switch.
Adjustment
Untight fixation nut (1);
Turn tuner (2) in the clockwise direction to
advance switch or other way to retard switch
actuation;
Tight fixation nut.
Battery maintenance
It is not necessary to check the electrolyte
level or to refill water; simply keep the battery
poles clean and slightly greased with acid-free
grease if necessary.
To access battery, remove the front left plastic
cover.
To remove the battery, first disconnect the
negative (-) and then the positive pole (+) of
the battery and then unhitch rubber band.
When replacing, connect first the positive and
then the negative pole.
2 - 44
! WARNING !
Never reverse polarity, otherwise battery
and rectifier-regulator will be destroyed.
When installing connect first positive
pole (+) and then negative (-).
Never disconnect battery while engine is
running. This will destroy the rectifierregulator.
Note: Keep in mind that PR5 battery is
sealed and is maintenance free. I tis not
necessary control electrolyte level, nor
add distilled water and its caps must
remain unviolated.
Every time battery is disconnected or removed
and then installed in the motorcycle or when a
fuse is replaced, special care must be taken in
order to not switch ignition key immediately.
Follow these procedures
- Perform cable connections by the right order,
without switching polarity.
- Before switch on ignition key, wait 2 or 3
minutes to allow ECU to perform a complete
check to all injection components, before start
engine.
- Switch on ignition key until fuel feed system
is with pressure and then switch off.
- Wait 10 seconds and then switch on ignition
key and push start button.
For a long term stop period take battery out
and recharge it every month with slow charge.
BATTERY RECHARGING
Battery must be recharged out of motorcycle,
in a ventilated place, dry, clean and away from
any flashing point or flammable substances.
Charge method
To recharge battery use na adequate 12V
charger.
Connect first charger terminals to battery
poles and only then plug charger plug to
network current (220V).
Read first charging instructions on the charger
manual and follow the specified method.
Charge
method
Charge
current
Charging time
Normal
0,6
Amperes
5 to 10 hours
Fast
3,0
Amperes
1 hour
! WARNING !
If electrolyte (sulphuric acid) leaks from
battery, proceed with great care.
Electrolyte can cause severe burns.
In case of skin contact, clear thoroughly
with water.
In case of contact with eyes, thoroughly
apply them water for at least 15 minutes
and immediately consult a doctor.
Battery is a closed model (MF) but can
nevertheless emit explosive gases.
Avoid sparks and open fire near the
battery
Defected batteries must be stored out of
reach of children. Ensure proper
disposal of discarded batteries.
! WARNING !
Fast charge is not recommended, only
use it in emergency cases.
In case of replacing, new battery must
be delivered fully charged but an initial
recharge can be applied according to
manufacturer’s instructions.
Storage temperature: 0-35º. Do not expose
battery to direct sun light.
2 - 45
! WARNING !
Battery is sealed and is maintenance
free. I tis not necessary control
electrolyte level, nor add distilled water
and its caps must remain unviolated
FUSE
The fuse is disposed underneath the seat,
close to air filter box. Having removed the seat
you will be able to see the fuse.
Battery electrolyte is a extremely acid
and dangerous for health, so any
attempt can be made to open battery.
If engine does not run for one month,
battery will lost its charge.
If motorcycle is not used for a long
period of time, remove battery and
charge it every month.
Even with a regular use of motorcycle,
battery may lost its performance after
2/3 and must be replaced.
If voltage in open circuit is below 12.4V,
there is a need to recharge.
Battery will lost performance if charged
with too much or too low current.
During recharge, hazard and flammable
gases may be released.
Always
read
instructions
carefully
charger
Fuse capacity is 20A (yellow) for the electric
system, 15A (blue) for injection system and
15A (blue) for spare. Keep always a spare
fuse on the fuse holder, for any emergency
case.
Fuse replacement
Switch off ignition key;
Remove seat;
Replace a blown fuse only with an equivalent
one.
Use an adequate 12V charger and follow
the specified charge method.
After charge, battery voltage will recover
but if consumption is excessive, voltage
will drop fast or run out. Basic cause is a
battery fault. Replace battery.
Some electric and injection system
components may be damaged if cable
terminals are removed from battery
poles when ignition key is ON and
current is passing in the circuit.
If a new fuse that has just been set in gets
blown again, you are strongly advised to have
it inspected by an AJP dealer.
Plastic covers must remain perfectly placed
on position in order to avoid any fuse to loose
of get dirt.
2 - 46
Every time battery is disconnected or removed
and then installed in the motorcycle or when a
fuse is replaced, special care must be taken in
order to not switch ignition key immediately.
Turning clockwise range will increase, turning
counter clockwise, range will decrease.
Follow these procedures
LIGHT BULB REPLACEMENT
- Perform cable connections by the right order,
without switching polarity.
Replacing headlight lamp
- Before switch on ignition key, wait 2 or 3
minutes to allow ECU to perform a complete
check to all injection components, before start
engine.
Loosen both rubber bands (1) and tilt
headlight mask to the front.
- Switch on ignition key until fuel feed system
is with pressure and then switch off.
- Wait 10 seconds and then switch on ignition
key and push start button.
! WARNING !
Under no circumstances is a stronger
fuse allowed to be set in or a fuse to be
“repaired”. An inexpert treatment could
damage the whole electrical installation.
1
Remove rubber protection.
LIGHTS
Headlight range
Adjustment:
Adjust headlight range turning screw (1) below
glass.
2 - 47
Loose retaining clip and remove gently lamp
holder out of headlight glass.
If terminals have been removed, place them at
the right position:
Press lamp inside, rotate it counter clockwise
and remove it away from holder.
Place a new lamp at the holder.
Black: (ground, right)
White: (normal, middle)
Blue: (passing, left)
Replacing parking lamp
Note: After installation, clean it with a wet
cloth with alcohol, to erase any fingertip marks
that may originate hot spots, which may
decrease lamp life.
Remove lamp holder out of glass, press and
rotate counter clockwise to remove lamp.
Install a new lamp on the bush and place it on
the mirror of headlight glass.
Use only 12V25/35W BA20d lamps.
Install lamp holder at headlight assembly.
Place retaining
protection.
clip
and
install
rubber
2 - 48
Use only 12V5W BA9S lamps
decrease lamp life.
it is necessary to replace all the rear spoiler
assembly.
Headlight – cockpit harness
Correctly position wire below cockpit.
Fix headlight using rubber bands and adjust
its position at forks tubes.
BLINKERS LAMP
Blinkers lamp replacement
Remove screw, glass and internal globe.
Turn handlebar left and right to ensure that
fork movement does not interfere with wires.
Press lamp, turn it counter clockwise to
remove it.
If necessary, adjust headlight range position.
Taillight
Rear light is a set of LEDs and does not allow
for replacing, because they are unchangeable.
In the event of a presence or stop light failure,
Install a new lamp.
2 - 49
DIGITAL SPEEDOMETER
Use only 12V10W BA15S lamps.
decrease lamp life.
Install internal globe (Orange) and glass,
aligning it but the notch of blinker’s body.
Digital speedometer gives information about
instantaneous speed and total or trip distance
travelled. Depending on the selling market,
speed and distance are indicated in
Kilometres or miles.
To switch between total distance and partial
distance press button (1).
To reset partial distance, it must be already
selected. Press button (1) until its value
returns to zero.
SPEEDOMETER CALIBRATION
To calibrate speedometer follow these steps:
Note: Drain notch must be facing down.
- With ignition key ON, press both left and
right button until “IP” is shown.
- Press left button to introduce at first digit “1”
or “2”, depending on wheels’ perimeter.
- Press right button to activate other digits that
must be flashing and with left button press it
until it reaches the desired number.
Perimeter values
PR5
SM
EN
Front wheel
17’’
21’’
Perimeter
1790
2200
-
2 - 50
- After introduction of 4 digits, press again
right button to validate, exit menu and return
to speedometer normal run.
To switch from Km to miles
- With ignition key ON, press both left and
right button for 3 seconds.
- Switch from miles to Km pressing left button.
- Press again right button to validate, exit
menu and return to speedometer normal run.
SIDE STAND
Check if side stand (1) is damaged and/or with
loss of spring tension (2).
can move motorcycle and cause side
stand recover and motorcycle fall.
PR5 side stand was designed only for
the motorcycle weight.
In no occasion, rider should sit on the
motorcycle when it is supported in side
stand.
EXHAUST SYSTEM
Requires regular maintenance, the more
frequent and severe is the riding of your
motorcycle.
Exhaust maintenance:
When cleaning motorcycle, certify that no
water or dirt gets inside muffler. For that,
insert a plug to cover exhaust end.
Wet glass fibber will increase noise level and
reduce engine performance due to oil or coal
saturation inside muffler.
2
1
Check if side stand is not bent and rotates
without constraints.
Lubricate side stand pivot.
Rotate side stand between 45 and 90º (1/8 to
¼ turn).
Tight nut with specified torque.
If side stand does not fold automatically,
lubricate side stand joint with oil or grease.
Replace any components of side stand in it
does not fold back automatically.
! WARNING !
Side stand is equipped with an
automatic recovery system, in the case
when motorcycle in not support on it.
Take care that once the motorcycle is
supported on side stand, some touch
In extreme cases, catalic converter or oxygen
sensor may be damaged.
Note: Exhaust system reaches high
temperatures that may cause severe burns.
Before perform any operation at exhaust
system, certify that both engine and exhaust
components are at a low temperature.
Glass fibber replacement
Fibber glass inside muffler must be replaced
each 3.000 km or 50 hours of use. It may
require
more
frequent
replacement,
depending on the use. Otherwise noise level
may reach illegal values.
Remove muffler.
Remove retaining clip and extract muffler´s
end.
Remove rivets.
Remove completely all old fibber glass. Clean
all parts (especial internal core) and check
that there are no damages.
2 - 51
Place internal core at the muffler’s body, fill
muffler through rear end evolving fibber layers
around internal tube. Push fibber glass
progressively with an appropriate tool until
front end of exhaust muffler.
After muffler’s full, it must be pressed 2/3 cn
down.
Note: do not too much fibber glass.
Assemble muffler using new 5 mm rivets.
Install muffler in the motorcycle.
Check correct fixation of all elements.
MOTORCYCLE CLEANING
Clean your motorcycle often in order to
maintain the beauty of its plastic surfaces and
avoid corrosion. The best manner would be to
use warm water (30-35º) that has been mixed
with a normal brand-name washing detergent
and a sponge. The hard dirt can be removed
before washing with the help of a soft water
jet.
! WARNING !
When washing your motorcycle never direct
a high pressure jet to some sensitive points
of
motorcycle,
such
as
electronic
components (ECU, throttle body sensors),
switches, relays, electric connectors,
headlight lamps, air filter, control cables,
radiators, muffler hole, steering stem
bearings, wheel bearings, etc. If water
penetrates on those components (or too
much dust) oxidation or corrosion might
occur, bad electric contact, causing
motorcycle malfunctions or even leading to
premature destruction of those components.
water can evaporate from inaccessible parts
of engine and brakes.
- Once the motorcycle has cooled down, oil or
grease all sliding and bearing points; lubricate
chain with chain spray.
- To avoid any malfunction of the electric
system, you should treat emergency off
button, light switch and socket connectors with
a contact spray.
Note: Before wash motorcycle with water,
cover exhaust end with a plug.
! WARNING !
Before wash motorcycle, certify that engine
is cold, otherwise thermal shock may cause
cracks at engine.
After washing with a soft jet, dry with
compressed air and a cloth.
Make a small ride to warm engine and actuate
brakes. By heating these components,
residual water will evaporate from areas in
engine and brakes with no access.
Once motorcycle cools down, lubricate all
sliding surfaces and support, lubricate chain
with chain spray.
Note: to avoid an electric and injection system
malfunction, ignition key holder, light switch,
start button and emergency switch must be
protected with electric contact spray.
- Use regular brand-name detergents to clean
the motorcycle. Especially dirty parts should
be cleaned additionally with the help of a
paintbrush.
- Before cleaning with water, plug the exhaust
pipe to prevent water going inside.
- After the motorcycle has been cleaned with a
soft water jet, it should be dried with air
pressure and a cloth. Take a short drive until
the engine has reached the working
temperature and also use the brakes. By
warming these components, the residual
2 - 52
STICKERS
NUTS, BOLTS, FASTENERS
New sticker’s application
Note: Please read these instructions
completely before new sticker’s application.
Check that all chassis nuts and bolts are
tightened to their correct torque values.
Surface preparation
Remove all stickers and wash carefully
plastics with water and soap.
Remove grease from old stickers with an
appropriate grease remover.
After plastic cleaning, wash your hands and
dry them.
Stickers should be applied in a clean, warm
and dry room.
Check that all cotter pins and clips are in
place and properly secured.
For specific information about dimensions and
torques please consult pages 3 and 4.
Application
Start by graphic alignment. On stickers with
holes, start alignment there. On stickers
without holes you can use paper stripes to
help alignment.
Take out one end of protective paper and start
applying it at plastic part.
Do not press immediately with confirming
alignment.
After correctly aligned, continue with paper
removal and sticker application.
Press sticker from inside to borders, to
remove air bubbles.
For a perfect adherence, use a hot air blower
(hair dryer). Apply warm air for 5 seconds at a
5/7 cm and remove air bubbles again.
Let stickers rest for 48 before any sport or
cleaning activity.
Note: for a longer sticker’s life, do not apply
water jets over them.
2 - 53
Chapter 3 – Fuel Injection System
SERVICE INFORMATION
3–1
IGNITION COIL
3 – 17
FUNCTIONING DESCRIPTION
3–5
PULSE GENERATOR
3 – 19
ENGINE CONTROL UNIT (ECU)
3–6
INJECTION SYSTEM AND
FAN RELAY
3 – 19
INJECTOR
3–9
FUEL PUMP
3 – 20
THROTTLE BODY
INTAKE AIR PRESSURE AND
TEMPERATURE SENSOR
(MAP&MAT)
3 – 12
DIAGNOSTIC TOOL
3 – 29
3 – 14
PARAMETERS LIST
3 – 31
TEMPERATURE SENSOR
3 – 15
ERRORS LIST
3 – 33
OXYGEN SENSOR
3 – 16
ERRORS
TROUBLESHOOTING
3 – 33
SERVICE INFORMATION
FUEL SYSTEM
ITEM
FUEL TANK
Capacity
Fuel type
FUEL PUMP
Fuel pump voltage
Energy consumption
Fuel pump resistance
Fuel pump output pressure
Inner pipe
Inner pipe
Fuel pump seal
Fuel pump fixation to fuel tank
Fuel pump fixation screw
Fuel pump fixation screw torque
Fuel pump screws tightening sequence
FUEL HOSE
Pump out hose
Pump inlet hose
Fuel hose (injector)
Injector – fuel hose connection
Injector cover fuel hose fixation
Fuel hose derivation
Fuel pump electrical connection
SPECIFICATION
6,3 Liters
Unleaded 95/98 octanes
AJP/Delphi 28257571YJ
12 V
2,1 Amperes
4,5 Ω – 11 Ω
2,2 – 2,7 bar
Ø 8x10x170 mm
Steel spring 6x47x0,5
NBR rubber gasket
Two inner M5 brackets
M5x25
4 – 5 N.m (0,5 kgf.m)
Numerical order written at fuel pump
(Replace each 2 years)
Ø 6x11x200 mm
Ø 6x11x35 mm
Ø 6x11x300 mm
Injector cover at 180º
Clamp (Ø 9-11)
Nylon T (Ø 6 mm)
450 – 500 mm
3-1
INJECTION AND IGNITION SYSTEM
ITEM
SPECIFICATION
Throttle body
Part number
Diameter
Throttle valve
Maximum air flow
Butterfly opening torque (idle)
Butterfly opening torque (wide open)
Throttle gap
Throttle cable
Throttle body/air filter box sealing
DELPHI 28231058
34 mm
Butterfly
50 g/s @2,7kPa vacuum
0,12 +/- 0,03 N.m
0,32 +/- 0,05 N.m
2 – 6 mm
AJP PR5
O-ring 39x1,5 (Viton)
Throttle position sensor
Part number
TPS voltage
TPS Resistance TPS between T1 (+5V) e T2 (-5V)
TPS functioning temperature range
TPS connector (at wire harness)
TPS terminal connector
DELPHI 35999 c/2719
5 V +/- 0,1 V (CC)
3 – 12 kΩ
-30 ºC – 120 ºC
12065287 – B
12103881
Stepper motor
Part number
Solenoid voltage
Solenoid resistance
Solenoid inductance
Functioning temperature range
Stepper connector (at wire harness)
Stepper terminal connector
1 ACV (Continental)
12 V (7,5 V – 14,2 VDC)
53 Ω +/- 10%
3,3 mH +/- 20%
30 ºC – 120 ºC
12162188 – D
12120475
Temperature sensor
Part number
Voltage
Maximum allowed fluid pressure
Resistance
Connector (at wire harness)
Terminal connector
Sensor thread
DELPHI 15336564
5 V DC
206 kPa (@135 ºC)
40 - 135 ºC
2 kΩ
15397337
15344771
M12x1,5
Pressure and temperature sensor (MAP/MAT)
Part number
MAP/MAT voltage
MAP/MAT resistance
MAP/MAT Functioning temperature range
DELPHI 12232201
5V +/- 0,1 V (CC)
2kΩ --- 8 kΩ
-40ºC --- +105ºC
3-2
MAP/MAT connector (at wire harness)
MAP/MAT terminal connector
12162833
12124075
Oxygen Sensor
Part number
Voltage
Rich AFR
Lean AFR
Heating power
Heating resistance
Oxygen sensor resistance
Fuel requirements
Terminal connector
Oxygen sensor thread
DELPHI 28122177
12 V – 14 V
>750 mV DC
<120 mV DC
7W
9,5 +/- 1,5 Ω (8 – 11 Ω)
10 Ω (Between white and purple wire)
260 – 850 ºC
Pb <0,005 g/l; P< 0,002 g/l
S=0,0 g/l; Si≤4ppm
12015798
12020801
M18x1,5
Injector
Part number
Voltage
Injector solenoid resistance
Injector holes
Inlet sealing
Intake manifold sealing
Terminal connector
DELPHI 25359853
12 V DC
13 – 14 Ω (12,0 Ω +/- 0,6%)
30 – 125 ºC
4
O-ring 7x4 mm (viton)
O-ring 9x2,5 mm (viton)
12305086 – B
12176636
Pulse generator
Resistance
Minimum peak voltage
Maximum peak voltage
Pulse generator wire
Pulse generator neutral wire (standard)
Pulse generator distance to stator core
Pulse generator distance to flywheel teeth
Pulse generator connector
Pulse generator connector terminals
Pulse generator resistance
130 Ω (110 – 150 Ω)
0,7 V
100 V
Blue wire
Yellow wire
16 mm
0,7 - 1,0 mm
3 ways
Latch 2,8x0,5 mm
110 Ω
Ignition coil
Part number
Ignition coil resistance
Voltage (in)
DELPHI BDW-IN-103
1,6 Ω (a 20 ºC)
12 V (9 –14 V DC)
3-3
Voltage (out)
Terminal connector
Ignition coil cable to spark plug pipe
Spark plug pipe (standard)
Spark plug pipe for NGK CR8E (equivalent)
Spark plug pipe for CHAMPION RG6YC (equivalent)
Spark plug pipe resistance
Spark plug (Equivalent)
Spark plug electrode gap
Spark angle (idle)
Spark angle (maximum)
25 KV – 30 KV (DC)
-30 ºC – +110 ºC
1262280 - 3
12124075
Ø 7x350 mm
DELPHI (silicone)
NGK LB05F
NGK LB05E
5 KΩ
CHAMPION RG6YC (NGK CR8E)
0,7 - 0,8 mm
8º BTDC
35º BTDC
Magnetic flywheel
EFI system
Outer teeth diameter
Flywheel inner diameter
Reference position “T”
Tooth miss positioning
Position of pulse generator
Rotor extractor thread
23x (24-1 teeth)
122 mm
95 mm
“I” Position at TDC
Match to 11th tooth after TDC
(clockwise)
End of 9th tooth after tooth miss
M20x1,5 (inner)
TORQUE VALUES
Item
Torque N.m (Kgf.m)
Remarks
4 – 5 N.m (0,4 - 0,5 Kgf.m)
Follow numeric sequence
Temperature sensor
20 – 25 N.m (2,0 – 2,5 Kgf.m)
-
Oxygen sensor
40 – 60 N,m (3,9 – 5,9 Kgf.m)
-
Intake manifold bolts
10 N.m (1,0 Kgf.m)
-
Intake manifold / throttle body clamp
2 N.m (0,2 Kgf.m)
-
Spark plug
13 N.m (1,3 Kgf.m)
Stator bolts
12 N.m (1,2 Kgf.m)
Fuel pump bolts
-
3-4
•
FUNCTIONING DESCRIPTION
Fuel injection system is a set of components
that includes a specific computer, sensors and
actuators that control an engine functioning,
monitoring revolution speed, charge and
temperature and actuate spark at exact
moment and inject exact fuel amount.
In a simple way, fuel injection system goal is
to inject fuel to reach optimal air/fuel ratio for
the engine.
Fuel atomization and injector position have a
critical paper to reach this ratio.
Air/fuel ratio precision has a direct effect on
emissions,
fuel
mileage,
power
and
driveability, good start capacity and stable
idle.
System components
AJP PR5 injection system has the following
components:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Crankshaft position sensor;
Electronic control unit (ECU)
Oil temperature sensor;
Fuel injector;
Fuel pump;
Air intake pressure sensor (placed on
throttle body)
Air intake temperature sensor (placed on
throttle body)
Throttle body – includes throttle position
sensor, stepper motor to control idle;
Ignition coil;
Oxygen sensor;
Injection system relay;
Wiring harness.
FUEL
INJECTION
SYSTEM
CARBURETOR COMPARISON
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Lesser mechanical complexity – otherwise
carburettor, there is no choke lever,
reducing components and giving more
flexibility to drive;
Ease of maintenance – Fuel injection
system maintenance is easy. Using
diagnostic tool fails and errors may be
easily detected and corrected;
Better cold start – user does not need to
take care when starts engine. ECU
measures room temperature and engine
status to calculate necessary fuel amount
to start engine immediately.
Low pollutants emissions;
Easier drivability – Due to better control
and performance, drive ability is increased
considerably, giving more pleasure to
driver;
Better hot engine start;
Altitude compensation;
Precise control of fuel injection timing;
Lower consumptions;
Better acceleration.
Component scheme
Following picture shows AJP PR5 fuel
injection scheme.
Red lines show output from ECU and blue
lines show input from several sensors and
switches.
/
Better control of air/fuel ratio – turn on
better response and acceleration;
3-5
Components repair
ENGINE CONTROL UNIT (ECU)
Fuel injection system components such as:
throttle body sensors – MAP, TPS, IACV –
are not repairable. They are supplyed with
throttle body.
AJP Part Number: 00MTS01A0038
DELPHI Part Number: 8260669
Fuel injection system components, such as:
• Injector;
• Oil temperature sensor;
• Ignition coil;
• Fuel pump
Are not repairable. In case of malfunction,
they have to be replaced individualy.
Functioning principle
ECU monitors continuously engine functioning
conditions trough systems sensors.
Performs calculations to minimize pollutants
and fuel consumption and at the same time
optimizing engine performance.
ECU also performs diagnostic checks when a
system failure occurs.
Appearance
AJP PR5 ECU has a polyester cover, over an
aluminium base.
3-6
Pin out
ECU pin out tis listed below, with indication for
each one of connectors.
Dimensions
Overall ECU dimensions are 103 x 92.6 x 27
mm. These dimensions include harness
flange, but not include harness connector.
CONNECTOR J1
(BLACK)
Pin #
J1-1
J1-2
J1-3
Description
MIL
J1-4
Identification and marking
Each ECU is identified with a label for
traceability, including AJP and Delphi part
number, model description, place and date of
manufacturing.
This information should not be erased once it
is important always motorcycle or ECU
needed diagnose.
Label should not be removed. Below it there is
a small hole that must be covered, otherwise
water or moist may enter and damage ECU.
AJP does not take responsibility to perform
diagnostics, if label is not in good conditions.
Pin #
J2-1
J2-2
J2-3
J2-4
J1-5
J1-6
J1-7
RPM out
CANLo
J2-5
J2-6
J2-7
J1-8
CANHi
J2-8
J1-9
J1-10
Earth
J2-9
J2-10
J1-11
IACALo
J2-11
J1-12
J2-12
J1-13
J2-13
J1-14
J2-14
J1-15
J1-16
J1-17
J1-18
DIAG
Stand sensor
J2-15
J2-16
J2-17
J2-18
Description
Ignition Coil
Earth
SData
Rpm sensor
(Hi)
Injector
Oxygen sensor
Intake air
temperature
FPR
5V
Intake air
pressure
TPS
Rpm sensor
(Lo)
Engine
temperature
Ignition key
5V (neutral)
Oxygen sensor
Battery
Voltage requirements
•
•
•
•
CONNECTOR J2
(GREY)
Voltage requirements: power controller
switch on ECU if voltage is above 6.3 V
CC. Connection is only controlled by
hardware;
Operation range: all functions are
executed se voltage is between 9 and 16
V CC;
Switch off: controller switch off ECU is
voltage is below 6,2V CC. Controller
prepares entry on Switch off mode.
Preparation involves saving important
information on EEPROM;
Reset: during reset, all parameters
assume a default value. ECU monitors
itself for a correct functioning and enters
on reset mode if it detects internal errors.
3-7
•
•
ECU restarts normal functioning once it
performed reset.
Over voltage: ECU stands without damage
a 26V voltage during one minute;
Inverse voltage: ECU stands without
damage a 13V voltage during one minute;
Temperature requirements
•
•
Storage: ECU does not suffer damage if
stored between -40ºC and +105ºC during
168 hours. If storage temperature is not so
high as +105ºC or not so low as -40ºC,
ECU can be stored for more time without
damage.
Operation: ECU should operate with a
room temperature between -20ºC and
+85ºC.
Removal
Remove right side cover (page 1-2);
Disconnect harness connectors J1 and J2
from ECU (1);
Remove diagnostic plug (3) hold by clamp;
Remove bolts (2).
Fix ECU at engine brackets;
Tight bolts to specified value;
Place correctly connectors;
Place diagnostic plug (1) with plastic clamp
(2);
Assemble right side cover.
TORQUE: 10 N.m (1,0 Kgf.m)
! WARNING !
Maintenance
ECU is a component that cannot be repaired.
If there are malfunctions on engine, it is
important to determine if it is caused by
software or calibration. If problem is caused
by software or calibration, ECU should be sent
to AJP, if motorcycle in inside warranty period.
Warranty request should respect Warranty
Procedure.
Assembly
Assemble ECU
spacers (2);
screws
(1) followed
by
Certify yourself that by tightening ECU, no
cable or harness branch is squeezed, nor
stays in contact with engine head cylinder
Handling – to do and not to do
ACTION
REASON
DO NOT: Place the ECU
close to the exhaust pipe or
Engine when removed
High temperature might
reduce the life of the
ECU and also can
damage the ECU
close to or pour water, oil or
any other liquids.
ECU is susceptible to
water and liquids
DO NOT: Allow mud or
other debris to accumulate
on the surface of the ECU
Having mud or debris
accumulated on the ECU
casing reduces its heat
dissipation efficiency.
3-8
DO NOT: Apply any voltage
relative to any point to the
ECU
DO NOT: Clean ECU with
any solvent or any corrosive
liquid
DO: Take extreme care that
water droplets or excess
moisture should not fall on
ECU connectors
DO: Clean the ECU with a
moist cloth and keep it dry
close to the exhaust pipe or
Engine when removed
Drastically affects the
performance of the ECU
and may lead to ECU
damage
Fuel hose connection O-Ring:
7x14.5x4 mm (A)
Material: Viton (black).
Can damage the housing
of the ECU
Manifold intake hose connection O-Ring
9x14.5x2,5 mm VITON (B)
Material: Viton (black).
ECU connectors can get
short and may lead to
ECU damage
Prevents ECU damage
O-Rings replacement
•
High temperature might
reduce the life of the
ECU and also can
damage the ECU
INJECTOR
AJP Part Number: 00MTC01A0058
Injector is an electro mechanic component.
When voltage is applied, a magnetic field in
the solenoid coil is generated.
Resulting magnetic force pushes up nuclei,
overtaking depression on air intake, spring
force and fuel pressure.
When fuel passes thru the channel, an
atomized spray is generated.
Injector shuts down when voltage is down,
which cuts fuel flow.
Appearance
•
•
It is preferable not to use old O-rings
when reassembling injector. If reuse is
necessary, check carefully each O-ring to
detect damage signs, once small defects
can lead to fuel leaks. Assemble O-ring
following recommended procedures to
minimize security fails.
When assembling O-rings on the injector
entry, be extremely careful not to damage
O-ring on the flange top.
A slight layer of engine oil should be
applied on the assembled O-ring, to ease
assemble O-ring on the intake manifold.
Over voltage
Injector can bear a 26V voltage for a
maximum of one minute at a duty cycle of 100
ms pulse width and 200 ms period.
Temperature requirements
Injectors will not experience any loss of the
ability to comply with the flow tolerance
requirements after exposure to the following
temperature environments. Also, they will not
experience unacceptable external leakage,
any type of physical degradation, or loss of
service life during or after being exposed to
these ambient conditions:
• Normal Operating Temperature
Range: - 30 to 125°C
• Extreme Operating Temperature
Range (some performance
degradation): - 40 to 150°C
• Storage Temperature Range: -20 to
60°C
Fuel Contamination
O-Rings
Injectors O-rings are prepared to bear a
temperature range from -40ºC up to 150ºC,
without leaks. They also resist to several
additives, like ethanol.
Injector fuel inlet filter protects the fuel injector
from initial build fuel contamination as well as
from fuel system assembly contamination.
Filtration is extremely important because
particle contaminants can cause an injector to
stick open, flow shift or tip leak.
Dimensions
3-9
Injector inlet filter is not a serviceable
component and is designed only to trap
potential built-in contamination between the
chassis fuel filter and injector.
Wire Routing
Electrical wiring to the injector should be
routed so that connectors are protected from
excessive heat, damage, and wear.
Avoid unnecessary handling (disconnecting
and connecting) of connector.
Removal:
•
•
•
•
original position and that retention clip is
placed on correct place;
Place retention clip after perform fuel tube
connection;
Place connector on injection harness;
Check if there are leaks if ignition key is
switch on and engine stopped;
Start engine and check if works correctly.
! WARNING !
Take care to place injector on the intake
manifold, to not damage sealing O-ring. Do
not use and tool to place injector on place.
! WARNING !
! WARNING !
Injector and all associated components can
be extremely hot!
Take car during refuel, to avoid entry of
water or any dirt on fuel tank.
•
•
Use only and always unleaded petrol.
•
•
•
Shut down ignition;
Disconnect negative terminal to avoid a
fuel discharge if there is an accidental
tentative to start engine;
Disconnect injection harness connector
(1);
Relief fuel pressure;
Remove injector from intake manifold.
! WARNING !
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Remove retention clip (2) from fuel hose
connection;
Remove fuel tube (3);
Clean carefully dirt on interface surfaces.
Do not damage sealing surfaces.
Assembly
Apply a small lubricant layer on the
replacement injector lower and upper O-ring;
• Assemble new injector on the manifold
intake. Check if injector is placed on
•
•
•
Apply a small lubricant layer on lower Oring. ISO 10 oil or equivalent is
recommended;
The preferred technique is to apply the
lubricant to the sockets the injectors are
being installed into, rather than directly to
the seal ring itself. This will help minimize
the possibility of injector contamination.
Avoid applying lubricant over the director
plate holes – this may restrict injector flow.
Do not dip the injector tip in lubricant.
Injectors come from the factory with the
seal rings attached. The re-use of seal
rings is not preferred when replacing an
injector. If an injector is to be re-used, and
no new seal rings are available, take care
to inspect each seal ring for signs of
damage. Even minor defects in the seal
ring can lead to leakage. Take extra care
in installing seal ring over flange of injector
inlet.
Carefully installing the harness connector
will prevent terminal damage. Listen for a
positive audible click from the connector
retention device — this ensures that it is
fully engaged.
Avoid
unnecessarily
disconnecting
/reconnecting the harness connector.
Wires routed in a manner that can allow
them to become pinched between
3 - 10
•
components can result in a short circuit
and a stuck open injector.
For injectors that require orientation for
spray pattern, do not rotate the injector in
the fuel rail assembly to install the injector
electrical connector. This may dislodge
the retaining clip, and result in improper
spray orientation
Injector cleaning
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Electrically disable the fuel pump by
removing the fuel pump connection.
Relieve the fuel pressure in the system
and disconnect the fuel connection at the
injector. Plug the fuel feed line.
Injector cleaner with the specific ratio of
the cleaner and gasoline to be mixed in
the Injector cleaning tank.
Connect the injector-cleaning tank to
injector in the vehicle.
Pressurize the injector-cleaning tank to
system pressure.
Start and idle the engine for 15- 20
minutes.
Disconnect the injector-cleaning tank from
the system and install the fuel pump
connections. Connect the fuel feed line to
injector
Start and idle the vehicle for an additional
2 minutes to ensure the residual injector
cleaner is flushed from system.
ACTION
DO NOT: Re-use injector seal
rings if at all possible. If no
other choice exists, take extra
care in inspecting the seal
rings for damage.
DO NOT: Dip injector tips
into lubricants.
DO NOT: Cycle injector
repeatedly without fuel
pressure.
DO NOT: Pulse (actuate) a
suspected high leak rate
3
injector (leak >50 cm air).
DO NOT: Allow water to enter
fuel system from air lines, etc.
during leak checks.
DO NOT: Contact or apply
load to the injector tip for
installation.
DO NOT: Pound injectors into
manifold during assembly to
REASON
Leakage.
Can plug injector spray
orifices.
Damage to internal
mechanical
components.
Can dislodge internal
contamination if
present and preclude
root cause analysis.
engine.
DO NOT: Apply excessive
side loads to electrical
connectors.
DO NOT: Use any dropped
unit.
DO NOT: Store injectors,
rails, or subassemblies
including engines on which
the injectors have been
installed in an unprotected
environment.
DO NOT: Use the injector as
a handle.
DO NOT: Rack, stage, or
handle parts in a manner that
allows contact between parts.
DO NOT: Remove packing in
a way that allows contact
between parts.
DO NOT: Tap on fuel injectors
to correct any malfunction.
DO NOT: Replace the injector
with other part number not
recommended for this
application
DO: Take extra care when
installing new fuel seal ring
over injector inlet flange.
DO: Use proper lubricants on
seal ring surfaces to install
injector in engine. Minimize
time between applying
lubricant and inserting injector
/ rail.
DO: Pulse (actuate) stuck
closed or tip-leak suspected
injector (Actuate consists of
one pulse <5 sec duration at 9
to 15V).
DO: Pulse (actuate) injectors
prior to a dry fuel system leak
test at engine/vehicle
assembly to reseat injector
valves.
DO: Avoid any liquid
contamination in the injector
area.
DO: Use care during
connection of harness to
injector.
DO: Use recommended
terminal lubricant on mating
connector.
May cause loss of
electrical continuity.
Internal damage may
have occurred.
External contamination
can damage the
injector electrically
and/or mechanically.
Do not use the injector
to lift assemblies
Damage will occur.
Damage could occur
due to contact between
parts.
Can damage injector.
Will severely affect the
performance of the
injector
Prevent tearing seal
ring during installation.
Avoid damage to seal
ring during installation.
Avoid contamination at
seal.
To verify the injector
failure
Injector valves may not
reseat without fuel after
shipping and handling
resulting in false
leakage.
Coil could short circuit.
Avoid terminal
damage.
Minimize potential for
terminal fretting
corrosion.
Can damage injectors
Apply load to 45 deg
angle on nylon over
mold see
Can damage injectors
or seal rings.
3 - 11
THROTTLE BODY
Removal
AJP Part Number: 00MTC01A0057
Remove seat and side panels;
Disconnect battery negative terminal;
Remove air filter;
Remove air filter box;
Technical data
Throttle body and injection
• 34mm bore size: Max flow: 50g/s @
2.7kPa Vacuum
• Throttle body opening torque:
Idle status: 0.12±0.03N.m
Full open: 0.32±0.05N.m
Untighten throttle body fixation clamp (1) at
intake manifold and remove throttle body by
rotating it to right side, to allow connectors
removal.
Disconnect throttle cable (2);
Throttle body is an interactive system
designed to perform following tasks:
• Control intake air flow;
• Control idle air flow;
• Information about throttle position;
• Provide reactionary force to the
throttle.
Appearance
Disconnect TPS, MAP/MAT, IACV connectors;
Remove throttle body carefully to avoid
damage it.
Maintenance
Remove sensors away outside throttle body.
3 - 12
Wash components from throttle body in petrol
/ querosene carefully, to avoid damage
sealing O-rings.
Clean and dry with compressed air;
Note: Sensors must be cleaned preferentially
with isopropyl alcohol during minute with
connector in place and then dried with
compressed air.
Place three connectors at corresponding
sensors.
Adjust Throttle cable clearance.
Check that all previously removed parts are
installed;
Tighten fixation clamp to intake manifold.
Check if any sealing is damaged or not in the
right place.
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS):
With a polish sheet SCOTCH BRITE refª
07447 - clean carefully any existing dirt. Clean
carefully bypass channel.
Sensors should be cleaned with isopropyl
alcohol for 1 minute and then dried with
compressed air.
Appearance
Install O-ring at throttle body groove on the air
filter side.
•
•
Reference voltage: 5±0.1VDC
Resistance between T1 and T2: 3k~12k
kΩ
Install throttle body at intake manifold,
correctly aligned and tight clamp (1).
Temperature requirements:
Normal Operating Temperature: -30~120°C
Removal
Disconnect TPS connector (1);
Untighten two bolts (2) and remove carefully
sensor from throttle body.
3 - 13
For assembly, place worm piston (3) with the
spring (2) aligned the shaft groove with the
stepper whole boss (1).
Installation
Perform reverse removal operations.
Idle Air Control Valve (stepper motor)
Appearance
Note: Introduce worm piston at stepper hole
but leaving it only at the beginning of stroke.
Installation
Perform reverse operation to removal;
Place O-ring at stepper body base and
assembler sensor at throttle body, tightening it
with two PH M4x12 bolts.
INTAKE AIR PRESSURE AND
TEMPERATURE
SENSOR
(MAP&MAT)
Idle Air Control Valve:
•
•
•
Operating voltage: 7.5~14.2 VDC
Solenoid resistance: 53Ω±10%
Solenoid inductance: 33mH±20%
Appearance
Normal Operating Temperature: -30~120°C
Maintenance
Remove worm piston (it might need some
constant effort to completely remove worm
piston from stepper body).
Wash and clean with compressed air all
stepper components. Do not allow damage
sealing O-ring due to a long contact with liquid
used in cleaning.
Apply Vaseline or lubricant spray at piston pin
(3) and sensor hole (1).
This sensor has two functions. The first is the
intake manifold air temperature; it provides a
resistance that varies as a function of
temperature within prescribed tolerance limits.
The second is the intake manifold air
3 - 14
pressure; it provides a voltage varies as the
intake air pressure
TEMPERATURE SENSOR
Technical data
Temperature Range: -40~105°C
Extreme Operating Environment: Maximum
temperature excursion to 125°C for 2 hours.
Appearance
Storage requirements
Storage temperature: -50°C to 150°C for an
indefinite duration
Electric requirements
Typical Voltage: The sensor circuit operates
with a CC voltage reference of 5 ± 0.1 VDC.
Removal
Remove connector (1);
Remove fixation bolt (2) on throttle body;
Remove sensor (3).
It provides a resistance that varies as a
function of temperature within prescribed
tolerance limits. The sensor has a negative
temperature coefficient of resistance. This is a
non-serviceable part.
Technical data
Extreme Operating Environment: 150°C for 1
hour
Circuit pressure
Maintenance
When necessary, connectors may be cleaned
in isopropyl alcohol or gasoline for one minute
with mating connectors in place and then airdried
When installed at the minimum torque the
sensor shall be capable of sealing engine
coolant with a positive pressure of 206.8 kPa
at 135°C applied to the probe tip end of the
sensor.
Assembly
Perform reverse operations to removal;
Check if sensor is working correctly with
diagnostic tool.
Storage temperature: -40°C to 120°C for an
indefinite duration
Electric requirements
Typical Voltage: The sensor circuit operates
with a DC voltage reference of 5 ± VDC.
Maximum Excitation Current: The sensor
calibration shall not be affected by a current
source of less than 1 mA at all temperatures.
3 - 15
Placement
Temperature sensor (1) is place at radiators
T
(2)
(by-pass),
above
connection
reinforcement tube, behind fuse box.
OXYGEN SENSOR
Appearance
Removal
Remove both side covers
Release sensor connector safety tab (blue)
(1);
Remove sensor connector (2);
This sensor is a device for monitoring the
residual oxygen in the exhaust of an internal
combustion engine. It is the feedback element
for engine closed loop control.
Technical data
Untighten temperature sensor with a 19mm
wrench.
Remove oil temperature sensor.
A/F ratio rich threshold: ＞750 mVDC
A/F ratio lean threshold:＜120 mVDC
Heater power: 7.0W (These parameters as
above are measured basing on 450°C (engine
dyno), typically on 70% duty at 10Hz and
under 13.5V)
Heater part resistance: 9.6}1.5Ω (This
parameter is measured based on 21°C)
Operating temperature range: 260-850 °C
Fuel requirements
When necessary sensors may be cleaned in
isopropyl alcohol for one minute with mating
connectors in place and then air-dried.
•
•
•
•
Assembly
Removal
Place sensor by hand and then tight with
specified torque.
Switch off ignition
Remove seat (page 1-3);
Remove side plastic covers;
Remove air filter box (page 2-7);
Cut plastic straps;
Remove connector (1), placed below air filter
box and fixed with plastic clamp.
Maintenance
TORQUE: 20 – 25 N.m (2,0 – 2,5 Kgf.m)
Pb≤0.005g/L
P≤0.0002g/L
S≤0.0085g/L
Si≤4ppm
3 - 16
IGNITION COIL
AJP Part Number: 00ELS01A0043
DELPHI Part Number: BDW-IN-103
This coil provides energy to the spark plug in
the combustion chamber. The coil itself
doesn’t have a driver. The high voltage tower
of the coil is connected to the spark plug using
a high voltage cable assembly. This is a nonserviceable component.
Remove oxygen sensor (2), from exhaust
pipe, using a 22mm key.
Appearance
Technical data
Assembly
Align by hand sensor on its position and then
tight it with specified torque.
Connect both connectors and fix them with
plastic straps to frame reinforcement tube.
Voltage requirements
Input voltage: 9~14V DC
Output voltage: ~25~30KV DC
Storage temperature: -40°C to 155°C
Removal
Remove seat;
Remove injection harness connector (1)
and spark plug pipe;
Remove ignition coil fixation bolt (2) and
remove ignition coil.
Check if sensor is working correctly with
diagnostic tool.
TORQUE: 40 – 60 N.m (3,9 – 5,9 Kgf.m)
3 - 17
! WARNING !
Performing ignition coil assembling, be
careful to avoid that high voltage cable
contact with lower fixation battery support bolt
and with exhaust pipe/flange.
ACTION
REASON
DO NOT: Install the low
voltage connectors with
the power applied
Assembly
Tight fixation bolt with specified torque;
Check if ignition coil is working correctly
turning ignition key on and trigger start motor
to start engine or check if there is spark
between spark plug electrodes.
TORQUE: 10 N.m (1,0 Kgf.m)
Spark Plug pipe
Appearance
DO NOT: Use parts that
have been dropped or
display physical damage
DO NOT: Scratch or apply
any non-approved material
to the surface of the high
voltage tower which mates
with the high voltage
secondary leads.
DO NOT: Strike any part
of the ignition system with
a tool or other object.
DO NOT: Permit paint or
other sprayed materials to
be sprayed onto the
electrical connectors.
DO NOT: Support the
ignition system by the
wiring harness or plug
wire.
Spark plug pipe for CHAMPION RG6YC :
NGK LB05E
Spark plug pipe for NGK CR8E: NGK LB05F
Resistance: 5KΩ
Cable length between ignition coil/pipe: 350
mm
! WARNING !
If any seal of spark plug pipe is damaged,
pipe should be replaced.
DO NOT: Operate without
the spark plug attached
DO NOT: Apply voltage to
the ignition system other
than vehicle system
voltage for testing
purposes.
DO NOT: Use high impact
tools to apply the spark
This might cause an
unwanted
secondary
firing, possibly leading
to personal injury
Damaged components
can lead to premature
failure.
This can jeopardize the
seal integrity of the
mating surfaces which
in turn can create a
secondary high voltage
leak path.
This
can
lead
to
physical damage which
can cause a system
malfunction or failure.
Insulating type sprays
can create a high
resistance
or
open
connection.
And,
a
conductive type spray
can create an electrical
short condition.
These leads are not
designed to support the
weight of the ignition
system. It can create a
poor
electrical
connection Or become
disconnected allowing
the system to fall and
be subjected to physical
damage
If a technician or
mechanic comes in
contact with the high
voltage
generated
during
operation,
personal injury may
occur. Or, if the engine
is operated under this
condition, unburned fuel
may fill the converter
area creating a potential
hazard
This can cause reduced
performance
or
an
electrical malfunction of
the ignition system.
Damage to the coil
tower, secondary boot,
3 - 18
plug boot to the ignition
secondary
towers.
Installation of the high
voltage secondary leads
by hand is preferred.
DO: Take care when
working
around
the
ignition system.
DO: Proper handling and
shipping methods need to
be in place to reduce the
risk of damage due to
impact,
moisture,
or
contamination
DO: Avoid unnecessary
disconnecting
and
connecting of the electrical
components.
DO: Insure the appropriate
seals are included in the
connector system.
DO: Check fuses
DO: The electrical wiring
to the ignition system
should be routed so that
the
conductors
are
protected from excessive
heat, damage, and wear.
or mating connection
surfaces might occur.
The
high
voltage
produced by the coil
secondary circuit can
cause personal injury
and/or damage test
equipment
Damaged components
can lead to premature
failure.
The
electrical
connections are not
designed for repeated
connection
and
disconnection.
Liquid intrusion into the
terminal
connection
area
might
occur
causing an electrical
intermittent or short
condition. In the event
of
severe
terminal
corrosion,
an
open
condition might occur.
This could protect the
system in the event of
an electrical short
Helps prevent electrical
intermittent, open or
shorted
operating
conditions.
PULSE GENERATOR
Distance between pulse generator and stator:
16mm.
INJECTION SYSTEM AND FAN
RELAY
Appearance
Pulse generator resistance:
- 210 Ω (Standard pulse generator, with blue
and yellow wires);
-110 Ω (Replacement pulse generator, with
white/blue and green/white wires).
Pulse generator and neutral connector
To release pulse generator connector from
injection harness, disconnect pulse generator
connector (1) from harness connector (2).
3 - 19
Hella part number: 4RA 965 400-00
Specification: 12V / 30A
Pump fixation elements
AJP PR5 has two relays, one for injection
system and other for radiator fan.
Injection system relay is placed at left side,
above battery (1)
Connection adaptor for fuel pump.
Fan relay is placed on the right side (2).
Fuel pump installation.
FUEL PUMP
AJP Part number: 00DEC01B0040
Appearance
Fuel pump supplies fuel to engine at a given
pressure. Fuel pump is placed at the top of
fuel tank and supplies fuel to engine thru fuel
hoses.
Fuel pump is an assembly of one pump to
create fuel flow and a pressure regulator to
maintain fuel output pressure.
Pump
When pump is actuated, pump motor
rotates impeller, which sucks fuel thru
strainer and generates fuel flow.
3 - 20
Pressure regulator
Pressure regulator is a mechanical device
diaphragm type. Fuel enters regulator after
passing thru filter. Regulator controls system
pressure regarding target pressure and
release surplus fuel to fuel tank.
•
After service, please follow Fuel Leak
Check Procedure;
After service, check if there are at least
three liters of fuel on fuel tank, before
actuate fuel pump.
•
Fuel pump diagnosis
Step
Operation requirements
•
•
•
Fuel pump must be installed at the top of
fuel tank, according to assembly
instructions;
Fuel pump was designed to work with
petrol. If fuel contains ethanol or alcohol,
please contact AJP to know if it is possible
to work with a particular fuel.
Check if there are at least three liters
before actuate fuel pump for the first time
– do not actuate fuel pump with a dry fuel
tank.
! WARNING !
If fuel pump works without fuel it may lead
to early failure.
Avoid working with a low quantity of fuel
on the fuel tank. To work safely, fuel tank
should have at least one litter of fuel.
1
2
3
Cautions
Before perform any operation, please follow
these instructions to guarantee human safety
and avoid damages on the system:
• Disconnect battery negative pole;
• Do not smoke and place a “No smoke”
sign near the working area;
• Have a extinguisher by the hand;
• Perform operations in a well-ventilated
area and far away from flames or fire;
• Use protection googles;
• To relief fuel vapours, remove fuel cap and
place it again;
• As fuel hoses are under pressure after
engine stops, relief or remove hoses will
cause a fuel spill. Before remove or relief
hoses, follow Fuel Pressure Relief
Procedure;
• A small amount of fuel may spill after
hoses removal. To reduce personal
hazard, cover hoses with a corrosion free
or contaminants cloth;
• After service, check if all clamps are
correctly placed;
4
Action
Yes
No
Primes for 3
seconds when the
ignition key is ON.
Check for fuel pump
running noise for3
seconds after
ignition key is ON.
Disconnect fuel
module coupler.
Check voltage at
harness coupler.
If fuel
pump
running
noise can
be heard,
go to step
4.
If fuel pump
running noise
cannot be
heard, go to
step 2.
Go to
step 3
Check the
electrical
circuit from
Ignition to fuel
module.
Is the voltage within
10-14V?
Connect 12V DC
power supply
(battery) to fuel
module.
Make sure that
enough fuel
available in fuel
tank to avoid fuel
pump running dry
Is the fuel pump
running?.
Check fuel system
pressure at Injector
inlet (with a T-joint)
while engine is
running in idle
condition.
1. Check
electrical
circuit
from fuel
module to
ECU
2. Check
ECU
1. Check Fuel
Pump
Harness
integrity
2. Check Fuel
Pump
Fuel
Module
Operation
Normal
Go to Step 5
1. Check
for
leakages
from
hoses,
hose
joints
2. Check
Fuel
Pump
3. Check
Pressure
Regulator
1. Clogged
Filter
2. Kink/
Blockage in
Fuel Hoses
3. Check
Regulator
Is the pressure
between 220
~270kPa?
5
Is the Pressure
below 220kPa?
3 - 21
ACTION
REASON
DO NOT: Drop Fuel
Module on Floor
DO NOT: Run Fuel
Pump Dry (without fuel at
pump inlet/ strainer)
ensure at least 3 liters of
gasoline is present in the
fuel tank
DO NOT: Damage the
strainer during servicing,
insertion of fuel module
in fuel tank
DO NOT: Disassemble
Fuel Pump and regulator
internal parts outside
Delphi premises.
DO NOT: Do any
adjustments on pressure
regulator and pump
except for replacement.
DO NOT: Use module
harness for hold/ carry
fuel module.
DO NOT: Pull Wiring
Harness in vertical
direction to module cover
DO NOT: Use damaged/
distorted hose clamps.
DO NOT: Use Fuel
Module if the strainer
with excessive damage/
cut.
DO NOT: Use Fuel Pump
for draining duel in fuel
tank.
DO NOT: Use module
mounting bolts for
mounting other
components.
DO NOT: Damage fuel
pump harness while
servicing fuel module.
DO NOT: Force hand
pump towards fuel
module while draining
fuel from tank.
DO : Ensure that there
Could cause internal
damage to Fuel Pump.
Cause internal damage
to Fuel Pump
Contamination enters
fuel pump thru damaged
strainer damages the
Fuel Pump
Warranty void.
Wiring Harness
Breakage/ Fuel Pump
Power disconnection
Can cause fuel seepage/
leakage.
Contamination enters
fuel pump thru damaged
strainer damages the
Fuel Pump
Not intended function of
fuel module.
Affects fuel module
sealing.
Damaged terminals will
cause intermittent/ No
contact for power supply.
To avoid any damages
on fuel module.
Can cause fuel seepage/
are no damages to fuel
pipes while servicing fuel
module
DO: Use genuine module
gasket only.
DO: Use designated
hose clamps.
DO: Clamp fuel module
harness to vehicle
chassis
DO: Use only standard
gasoline for operating
vehicle/ module.
DO: Change the fuel filter
at recommended
intervals.
DO: Use fuel filters
supplied/ recommended
fuel filters only.
leakage.
Spurious gaskets can
cause leakages.
To ensure no leakages/
seepages thru hose joint.
Clamp provides
mechanical support for
wiring harness in
vibrations.
Fuel Module is intended
to run in standard
gasoline. Adulterated fuel
can cause fuel module
premature failures which
are not covered under
warranty.
Clogged fuel filter will
cause restriction in fuel
flow and can cause flow
reduction.
Spurious fuel filters
causes damages to
injector, regulator and
fuel pump performance.
Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure:
! DANGER !
This operation should not be performed while
engine is warm.
After making sure that engine is cold, relieve
fuel pressure as follows:
• Place vehicle gear in ‘Neutral’.
• Disconnect fuel module electrical
coupler (1) from vehicle harness.
• Start engine and run till it stops due to
lack of fuel. Repeat ignition key ON
and OFF for 2 ~ 3 times of about 3
seconds each time to relieve fuel
pressure in lines. Fuel Connections are
now safe for servicing.
• Upon the completion of servicing,
Connect Fuel Module Connector to
Vehicle Harness.
3 - 22
If pressure Reading at gauge is between 2,2
and 2,7 bar, fuel pump is working correctly.
FUEL PUMP PRESSURE TEST
Right fuel pressure must be between 2,2 and
2,7 bar.
If fuel pressure is below 2,2 bar, check if there
are leaks on hoses and connections.
To perform a test to fuel pump pressure, a
pressure gauge must be used with a adequate
adaptor, to connect pressure gauge to injector
cap.
Follow these procedures:
Remove retaining clip (1), release fuel hose
(2) with injector cap faced outside.
If there are no leaks, fuel pump may be
damaged. Replace it.
FUEL PUMP REMOVAL
Relief fuel system pressure following “Fuel
Pressure Relief Procedure”.
Remove seat;
Remove rear plastic covers;
Remove air filter and air filter box.
Unplug fuel pump connector.
Plug pressure gauge at injector cap (1) and
install again retaining clip (2).
Turn ignition key on.
Remove injector retaining clip and pull out
injector cap out from injector.
Remove two bolts M5x25 (1) and replace
them with two studs M5x30 (2).
These bolts must be the first ones to be
removed to assemble studs which will hold
fixation brackets in its position inside fuel tank,
after fuel removal.
3 - 23
Remove remaining 4 bolts M5x25 (2) with
corresponding sealing washers, keeping both
fuel pump fixation brackets.
If strainer is with dirt, clean it with petrol and
compressed air. If it is damaged, replace it.
Certify that the electric terminals (1) are fixed.
Remove fuel pump from fuel tank with
extreme care, all together with all fuel hoses.
Be careful to avoid damaging fishing hose
connected to pump motor while you remove
fuel pump out of fuel tank.
Inspection/Maintenance:
Check if all components are fixed;
Certify that racord fixation of fishing hose is
good (1), with the retainer rod plugged in the
right position.
Check if strainer is in good conditions.
Check if fuel pump works, when a 12V voltage
is applied.
If fuel pump is not working properly, replace it
for a new one.
3 - 24
FUEL PUMP INSTALATION
Proceed with the reverse steps of removal.
Check if both fuel tank mating surface and
pump sealing are clean and with no defects.
Procedure:
Introduce each fixation bracket inside fuel
tank, fixing it temporarily with two M5x30
studs in central holes;
With both fixing bracket in their right position
and hold by two studs, bend strainer in
direction to fuel pump and place fuel pump
inside thru the fuel tank opening carefully until
achieve a complete mating of fuel pump with
fuel tank surface.
Tight 6 bolts gradually following numeric
sequence marked at fuel pump body in a
way to apply constant pressure to sealing
gasket.
Do not overtake specified torque to avoid
damaging fuel pump.
Torque: 3 - 4 N.m (0,3 – 0,4 Kgf.m)
! WARNING !
Follow marked instructions and tightening
sequence in fuel pump. Exaggerated
torque may cause uneven compression at
sealing gasket and lead to a fuel leak.
Note: While pump is being placed, fix pump
with two M5x25 bolts on the front holes until
inside plate is fixed.
If one fixation plate is difficult to grab, it can be
used a longer bolt or one M5x107 from
electric starter, to pull up and keep fixation
plates facing the inner fuel tank surface until it
is possible to tight with the M5x25 bolts.
Pay attention to fuel pump alignment, bolt
position is not symmetric and fuel pump can
only be placed in one position.
After tightening inside plates with 4 M5x25
bolts, remove the 2 M5x30 studs (1) and
replace them with the remaining 2 M5x25
bolts.
Check if new sealing gasket is not too tight,
coming out from the limits of fuel pump cover.
If necessary, relief gently 6 bolts and tight
again, following specified torque.
FUEL HOSES
PR5 fuel hoses should be replaced each 2
years.
Check fuel hoses and its T nylon derivation.
Check if there are no cuts, cracked, dried or
any other damage. Any fuel hose with
damage must be immediately replaced by a
new one, following AJP specification.
Fuel hose dimensions are as follows:
(1) – Feed hose Ø10x6x200mm
(2) – Return hose Ø10x6x35mm
(3) – Out hose Ø10x6x300mm
3 - 25
Check connections and right positioning of
fuel hoses at fuel pump, feed hose (1), return
hose (2) and outlet hose (3)
Use only specific plastic clamps as originals,
to avoid damage any fuel hose and ensure a
perfect tightening in the motorcycle fuel circuit.
Notes:
- Pay attention to the type of fuel hose, it must
be specific and appropriate for petrol.
- Respect fuel hose dimensions as specified.
- Fuel derivation is performed by a 6mm short
T nylon
- It may be necessary to use a warm air
dryer/blower to heat hoses ends to facilitate its
assembly.
- Fuel hose connection at fuel pump must be
performed gently to avoid break any of the
racords located on the fuel pump cover, which
lead to scrap fuel pump.
Plug outlet hose (1) at the rear outlet with
spring clamp (2), plug the other end at T nylon
derivation (3) and fix with a plastic clamp (4);
fix hose with the plate (5) using fuel pump
fixation bolt.
Plug feed hose (1) at the T outlet, with a
spring clamp (2).
Assembly
Plug return hose (1) on the front outlet (2) and
place corresponding spring clamp. (3).
Place T (4) with the derivation faced to the
right side of fuel tank. Fix T with a plastic
clamp (5).
Feed hose (1) must pass between shock
absorber (2) and beam spacer (3).
3 - 26
Feed hose (1) must pass through the throttle
body right side (2) and be directed to the
injector connection area.
At this stage, to fix injector cap, it must be
placed along feed hose a crush clamp (1),
followed by the fuel cap (2) at the hose end
(3) and plug injector circlip (4), looking for the
right alignment.
If fuel tank is not placed in the rear frame,
injector cap can be placed at the end of feed
hose, turning it to the right position and then
crimped with a crush clamp.
Remove cap outsider injector and fix fuel hose
with crush clamp.
Plug connector of wiring harness (1) to fuel
pump connector.
Note: By crimping hose clamp at injector
clamp, certify that crush clamp is faced
backwards.
Finally, place again injector cap and plug
retaining circlip.
Plug injector at intake manifold.
Assemble adaptor for the electric connection,
plugging corresponding connector at fuel
pump (1) and the other in the connection of
injection harness, located below air filter box.
3 - 27
Connect negative battery pole.
Follow the “Fuel Leak Check Procedure”, to
check whether there is a fuel leak before start
engine.
Fuel Leak Check Procedure
After performing any service on fuel system,
do the following checking to detect any leak
on the system:
• Place 3 to 5 liters on fuel tank;
• Turn ignition key to “ON” position for 5
seconds. Turn to “OFF” position and wait
10 seconds. Repeat this step 4 times to
apply pressure on tubes;
• In this condition, check if there is no fuel
leak from any system component (fuel
tank, tubes, gaskets, etc)
3 - 28
DIAGNOSTIC TOOL
! WARNING !
The presented application is for exclusive use
of official dealers, which get appropriate
training to the right use of the diagnostic tool.
Motorcycle connection
To use diagnostic tool is necessary use a
connection cable between computer and
motorcycle. Cable has a USB connection and
a 9 pin plug to connect motorcycle’s
diagnostic connector.
! WARNING !
AJP Motos, SA declines any responsibility for
the use the diagnostic tool of non-authorized
and without training personal.
! WARNING !
Uploading, installation or changing of
calibration map by persons or dealers outside
AJP MOTOS official network implies the
immediate loss of motorcycle warranty.
Diagnostic tool to check AJP PR5 fuel
injection system is PCHUD application.
This application can be installed in any
desktop computer or laptop and constitutes a
useful tool to check fuel injection system
functioning and its components.
! WARNING !
Cable data supplied by AJP is specific for this
application. Do not use any other USB – 9 pin
connector, because it may damage computer
and destroy
Note: To install PCHUD application contact
importer/distributor.
PCHUD diagnostic tool can be installed in
computers running on Windows XP or Vista. It
does not run on Windows 7, 8 or other
operating system.
After plugging, start PCHUD application.
When application is running, turn ignition key
to “ON” position.
3 - 29
PCHUD window is as follows:
In this example, engine is stalled; several parameters are with zero value, like: VRPM, SAESTA,
IARDRPM, etc.
3 - 30
PARAMETERS LIST
PCHUD parameters are listed as following:
Values with
engine
running
VCTLS±20ºC
Values with
engine
running
VCTLS±80ºC
Parameter
Description
Unit
Values with
engine stalled
VCTLS±20ºC
AFFNLAFR
Air Fuel Ratio
Block Learning Memory Cell (BLM). Long
correction term of AFR in function of oxygen sensor
value.
Temperature calculated on intake manifold.
Based on air temperature, oil temperature, rpm and
throttle position.
afr
5
11.8
14.63
factor
1
1
Variable
0.80 – 1.20
ºC
n/a
n/a
n/a
FBLMCOR1
FCATCYL1
FCLCINT1
Term of fast correction in function of oxygen sensor
value. Not kept in memory.
-
n/a
n/a
n/a
FCLCINT2
Term of fast correction in function of oxygen sensor
value. Not kept in memory – not used.
-
n/a
n/a
n/a
FCLCMUL1
BLM reading cell. System performs different
changes in different operating conditions – rpm and
charge.
%
n/a
n/a
n/a
n/a
Cell
number
%
n/a
n/a
n/a
n/a
n/a
Injector opening time.
ms
0
5.6
3.25
FVE1
Cylinder volumetric efficiency.
%
100
84
84
IACVDSMP
Stepper motor target position.
Step
100
64
30
%
12.6
19
15.88
rpm
0
1940
1600
FCNO
BLM active cell number.
FPPDC
Pump functioning cycle.
FPWVC1
IAINTEGOFST
IARDRPM
IARPMERR
Idle integral term air flow.
Target idle.
Difference target idle / real idle.
rpm
0
Current or active Error codes.
-
0
(1)
MALFHIST
Historic error codes saved on ECU.
-
0
(1)
RUNTIME
Engine running time since last start.
S
MALFCURR
SAESTA
0
0
(4)
0
(4)
0
(1)
0
(1)
0
(1)
0
(1)
-
(5)
60
Spark angle.
º
0
5
8
Final spark angle.
º
n/a
n/a
n/a
SAIDLDYN
Spark angle dynamic control.
º
0
0
0
SPDWELL
Ignition actuation time.
ms
1.36
1.05
1.03
factor
0.90
.95
0.93
SAGLOBAL1
VAFCMULT
VAFCCLNUM
Air flow correction factor, based on MAP value.
This factor corrects TPS for air flow relation.
Active memory cell number for air flow correction..
VBARO
Atmospheric pressure
VCLTS
Engine oil temperature.
VCSPC
Combustion step id counter.
VIAT
Intake air temperature.
Cell
number
kpa
n/a
n/a
n/a
100
100
100
ºC
20
22
90
count
n/a
n/a
n/a
ºC
20
22
45
14.5
14.5
VIGN
Battery voltage.
VMAP
Intake manifold absolute pressure (MAP).
kpa
85
48.5
48.5
Corrected MAP for fuel calculation.
kpa
75
48.8
45
º
121
163
164
mV
1014
905
VMAPEXP
VMAPRANG
VO2
VRPM
MAP reading angle
Oxygen sensor voltage.
Engine Revolutions.
V
rpm
12.5
(2)
0
1900
925
(3)
1600
(3)
3 - 31
VTHROT
Throttle position (TPS) in %. System recognises
idle with 0% TPS. Uses MAP to correct air flow
calculation.
%
0
0
0
VTHROTRAW
n/a
n/a
n/a
Throttle position value 0-65535 equals to 0-5 Volt.
(1) Check errors list – page 3-24.
(2) Battery voltage value VIGN depends on battery’s charge. If value is below 10V, injection system may not work.
(3) VRPM value presents variations. Average value presented.
(4) IARPMERR varies in function of VRPM value.
(5) Needed time to reach 90ºc depends on outside temperature, cooling conditions, throttle use, etc.
n/a – System internal parameter. Not applicable for diagnose effects.
Reference values above listed are indicative and in condition of throttle is closed – VTHROT = 0 and altitude below 500m – VBARO between 95 and 102 KPa.
When engine is stalled, it is possible to check some parameters and identify some problem.
MALFCURR parameter can show some error code.
Nevertheless, some errors just come up when engine is running. So one suggests to start engine
and wait until engine is above 60ºC for a better error checking.
3 - 32
ERRORS LIST
Errors list and its description are as follows:
Error code
263
264
274
275
279
280
290
291
305
306
50
49
513
560
562
822
823
849
1285
1378
1379
1616
Description
Pressure sensor - MAP – low voltage or open circuit
Pressure sensor - MAP - high voltage
Temperature sensor - MAT – low voltage
Temperature sensor - MAT - high voltage or open circuit
Oil temperature sensor with low voltage
Oil temperature sensor with high voltage or open circuit
Throttle position sensor – TPS - low voltage or open circuit
Throttle position sensor – TPS - high voltage
Oxygen sensor with low voltage
Oxygen sensor with high voltage
Oxygen sensor resistance with high voltage
Oxygen sensor resistance with low voltage
Injector malfunction
Ignition coil with low voltage or open circuit
Ignition coil with high voltage
Crankshaft sensor with noisy signal
Crankshaft sensor with no signal
Ignition coil malfunction
Idle control error
System low voltage
System high voltage
Diagnostic warning failure – occurs in all previous models up to 2011.
ERRORS TROUBLESHOOTING
For each error there is a set of checks and actions to perform to eliminate it.
Before any check or action do the following:
• Shut down engine;
• Turn ignition key to “OFF” position”
• Wait 10 seconds to ECU reset;
• Se engine, exhaust, oil cooler, throttle body were hot, wait them to cool down;
• Remove any dirt, dust, moisture around components;
• Use appropriate tools to remove connectors, cables and components.
3 - 33
For each code error actions to perform to eliminate it are as follows:
Error
code
263
264
274
275
279
280
Element
MAP / MAT
Sensor
Oil
temperature
sensor
Check
Check if connector is correctly placed.
Place connector on right
position.
Check if sensor is not blocked with dirt.
Clean sensor with extreme care.
Check if there are no cables/terminals loose
on connector.
Place terminals on position.
Crimp terminals.
Check terminals conditions on connector.
Straight up terminals.
Apply cleaning spray.
Check if sensor is on right position.
Place sensor on right position
and tight fixation bolts.
Check if there is current flow on the cable
between sensor connector and ECU
connectors – See injection harness scheme.
Replace injection harness.
If above checks are OK.
Replace sensor.
position.
on connector.
Crimp terminals.
Tight sensor with specified
torque.
Replace sensor.
on connector.
290
291
TPS Sensor
Action
position.
Crimp terminals.
torque.
Replace sensor.
3 - 34
Error
code
Element
Check
305
306
50
49
on connector.
Oxygen
sensor
on connector.
513
Injector
560
562
849
on connector.
Ignition coil
on connector.
822
823
Crankshaft
sensor
Check if sensor is on right position. Distance
between pick-up sensor and teeth must be
1mm.
Check if Wheel as 23 teeth at same height.
Check if cables are not damaged and not in
contact with other motorcycle parts.
Action
position.
Crimp terminals.
torque.
Replace sensor.
position.
Crimp terminals.
Replace injector.
position.
Crimp terminals.
Replace ignition coil.
position.
Crimp terminals.
position.
Tight bolts.
Replace wheel.
Replace sensor.
3 - 35
Error
code
Element
Check
on connector.
1285
Stepper
Motor
Check if stepper motor is on right position.
Check battery cable condition.
Check battery dirt posts.
Battery
1378
1379
Wiring
harness
Injection
Relay
position.
Crimp terminals.
Place stepper motor on right
position and tight fixation
bolts.
Replace stepper motor.
Replace cables
Remove dirt and corrosion
from battery.
Check battery voltage value.
If below 10V
Charge battery.
Check if battery charges.
Replace battery.
Replace voltage rectifier.
Check if wiring harness cables are in good
condition.
Replace wiring harness.
Check if ECU connectors are well placed.
Fuse
Action
Check if fuse are in good condition.
Check cables on fuse box.
Check if injection relay is on right position.
Remove connectors and place
them back again.
Replace fuse.
Fix cables on the box.
Place injection relay on right
position.
Replace relay.
After every check or action you should proceed as follows:
•
•
•
•
•
Turn ignition key to “ON” position;
With PCHUD application open, check if there is any error;
Start engine. If engine is hot – above 60ºC – check if there is any error. If engine is not at
right temperature, wait until it warms;
If there are no errors and engine is running correctly, errors are solved;
If error maintains or engine is not working correctly, contact AJP MOTOS Technical Service.
3 - 36
Chapter 4 - Lubrication
LUBRICATION
SERVICE INFORMATION
4–2
RIGHT CRANKCASE
ASSEMBLY
4 – 13
TROUBLESHOOTING
4–4
OIL PUMP (B)
REMOVAL
4 – 15
ENGINE OIL REMOVAL
4–4
OIL PUMP (B)
ASSEMBLY
4 – 17
OIL FILTER REMOVAL
4–5
LEFT CRANKCASE
ASSEMBLY
4 - 17
OIL PUMP (A) REMOVAL
4–7
LUBRICATION AND
SEALING POINTS
4 - 18
RIGHT CRANKCASE
REMOVAL
4–7
TORQUE VALUES
4 - 20
OIL PUMP ROTOR
INSPECTION
4 - 11
OIL PUMPS SCHEME
4 - 20
OIL PUMP (A) ASSEMBLY
4 - 12
4-1
SERVICE INFORMATION
SPECIFICATIONS
ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM
ELEMENT
ITEM
Manufacture
Type
Recommended oil
Viscosity
SAE 10W-50 / (20W-50)
At the right crankcase
cover
Oil level checking
Oil sight
Main oil filter
Reusable; localised at the
right crankcase
Secondary oil
filter
Two usable depurator
filters in each crankcase
At the right crankcase
Sealing ring
Fixing screws
Torque
Sealing ring
Torque
Crew with a magnet
Oil drain cap
Sealing washer
Torque
Lubrication
i-Ride Moto 4T SAE 10W-50
API: SL JASO MA, MA2
Engine oil plug
Depurator filter
cap
ENI-AGIP
Standard specification
Alternative for racing
Min oil filter cap
SPECIFICATION
Wet sump
ENI-AGIP
i-Ride Moto 4T SAE 20W-50
Plastic plug, in the right crankcase cover, with O-ring
20x3,55
Maximum: At the upper mark of the sight
Minimum: At the lower mark of the sight
Cylindrical, Ø 30x100, metallic net, with valve
Tubular PVC, Ø 14,6x88x9,5; with O-ring
Flange type, Aluminium
O-ring 30x1,6
Two M5x16
4~5 N.m (0,5 kgf.m)
O-ring 17,5x18
13,5 N.m (1,35 kgf.m)
M14x1,5
14,5x20x1,5
Two eaton pumps
Right crankcase pump
8 mm rotors
Left crankcase pump
14 mm rotors
4-2
ELEMENT
ITEM
SPECIFICATION
SERVICE LIMIT
Two
-
Eaton
-
With double rotors
40,54 mm
0,20
Right pump rotors
thickness (A)
8 mm
-
Right rotors
thickness (B)
14 mm
-
0,15 mm
0,20 mm
0,15 – 0,22 mm
0,25 mm
Extremity clearance
0,02 – 0,09
0,12 mm
Rotor’s shafts of the
oil pump
10x149 mm
-
Rotor’s pin of the oil
pump
4x15,8 mm
-
Pump (right) driven
gear’s pin
3x15,8 mm
-
Driven gear (right
pump)
Nylon z17
-
Driven gear washers
Two 10,2 x 0,5 x 5
-
Drive crankshaft gear
Nylon Z8
-
Number of pumps
Pump type
Rotors extremity
clearance
Pump body
clearance
Oil pump
Right pump cover
Aluminium, with
pressure valve
Screws of the right
pump cover
Three (M5x18)
-
Left pump cover
Steel
-
Screws of the left
pump cover
Three (M5x12)
-
4N.m (0,4Kgf.m)
-
Cover screws
tightening
4-3
ENGINE OIL REMOVAL
GENERAL
! WARNING !
Used engine oil may cause skin cancer if
repeatedly left in contact with the skin for
prolonged periods. Although this is
unlikely unless you handle used oil on a
daily basis, it is still advisable to
thoroughly wash your hands with soap
and water as soon as possible after
handling used oil.
TORQUE VALUES:
Crankcase oil drain bolt (engine): 25 N.m
(2,5 kgf.m)
Check the oil level every day before operating
the motorcycle.
Do not let the oil contact with water.
! WARNING !
When removing oil after running the engine, be
careful, it may be under pressure and in high
temperatures.
Note: to do the oil replacement, before draining
the used engine oil, use a specified recipient for
post recycling;
Let the engine run 5 minutes before the oil
replacement.
Note: To ensure the complete oil draining it is
recommended to do it with the engine at a
temperature of 50º - 60º [C].
Remove the engine protection (1) by removing
5 bolts;
Note: It is recommended to change the engine
oil at every 3.000Kms
TROUBLESHOOTING
Engine oil level too low – high oil consumption:
 External oil leaks;
 Worn piston rings;
 Oil not changed often enough;
 Faulty head gasket.
Engine oil contamination
 Oil not changed often enough;
 Head gasket faulty;
 Worn piston.
! WARNING !
Remove the 17 mm oil drain plug (1), located at
the bottom of the left crankcase;
Running the engine with insufficient oil can
cause serious engine damage.
RECOMMENDED ENGINE OIL
Eni-Agip I-Ride moto 4T SAE 10W 50
CAPACITY: 1,7 Liter
(1)
4-4
Motorcycle must have the side stand on to help
draining the oil;
Remove all the dirt in the oil drain plug with
solvent and compressed air and certify that it is
thoroughly clean before assembly;
Refill the engine with the help of a stovepipe;
After the oil replacement run the engine and
verify the oil level;
To check the oil level make sure that the
motorcycle is on a horizontal position;
Check if the washer is damaged; if so, replace it
with a new one;
(1)
OIL FILTER REMOVAL
Tight with the specified torque to avoid
damaging the oil drain plug;
To ensure a perfect seal, apply Teflon tape on
the oil drain plug.
Remove the engine protection;
Remove the oil filter cap by disassembling the
two bolts (1);
(1)
TORQUE: Oil drain plug – 25N.m (2,5 kgf.m)
Note: Verify if the filter is damaged; if so,
replace it.
Note: It is recommended to use always the
same engine oil.
Remove the oil cap (1);
4-5
MAINTENANCE
Clean the filter with solvent and compressed air.
Verify the O-ring and the cap for any possible
leak;
TORQUE: Screw M5x16 - 8N.m (0,8Kgf.m)
ASSEMBLY
STRAINER OIL FILTERS
When assembling the filter, certify that the top
(1) is fitted first to guarantee that the aperture
faces the inside of the engine;
Right crankcase
(1)
Left crankcase
The other side of the filter with the valve faces
the outside of the engine;
Check filters condition;
Clean the cap, the O-rings and the filters with
petrol or kerosene and then use compressed
air;
4-6
Remove the six bolts and the springs of the
pressure plate;
Note: Verify if there is any leak on the cap/ Oring; if so, replace with a new one.
Pull up the pressure plate, the rod, washer and
the bearing out of the center sleeve;
TORQUE: Cover Bolt - 19N.m (1,9Kgf.m)
OIL PUMP (A) REMOVAL
RIGHT CRANKCASE REMOVAL
Removal
Drain engine oil (page 2-11);
Drain the liquid refrigerant;
Remove the right crankcase cover:






Remove the right crankcase cover
Remove clutch assembly
Release the rear brake lever
Remove exhaust and sub frame
Release the right frame beam
Remove the water pump
Remove the bolts of the right crankcase cover;
! WARNING !
Be careful when performing this
operation; use the proper tools and
accessories to avoid injuries.
To remove the center sleeve and the out case,
use a pneumatic tool;
4-7
Insert the clutch disks. With a proper glove stop
the clutch disks when using the pneumatic;
Remove the nut that fixes the rear brake pedal;
Remove the disks and the center sleeve from
the out case assembly;
Remove the rear brake pedal through the right
side;
Remove the outer case assembly;
Note: to do the right crankcase removal it is
necessary to release the right frame beam;
Remove the two bolts of the rear brake master
cylinder;
Release the rear master cylinder;
4-8
Remove the nut from the right frame beam;
Remove the M12x40 bolt that fixes the right
frame beam to the main frame;
Release the upper bolts and with a tire lever up
a bit the aluminum frame, use a piece of nylon
or plastic to do this;
Note: Be careful when doing this operation to
avoid any warpage on the frame;
Use a tool to keep the frame beam away to help
the right crankcase removal;
Remove the radiator outlet tube;
Note: One of the right crankcase bolts is behind
the frame beam
4-9
After keeping the right frame away, remove the
bolt behind the frame beam;
Note: be careful not to lose the pins of the right
crankcase;
Remove the water pump cover;
Remove the oil pump gear by removing the
circlip;
Remove all the bolts left of the right crankcase;
Remove the other oil pump gear;
4 - 10
OIL PUMP ROTOR INSPECTION
Note:
 Wash and clean all oil pump parts
before inspection and assembly;
 Measure at several places and use the
largest reading to compare to the
service limit.
 If any part of the oil pump is worn
beyond the specified service limits,
replace the oil pump assembly.
Remove the three bolts of the oil pump cover;
Pull out the oil pump rotor;
4 - 11
Measure the outer rotor thickness;
OIL PUMP (A) ASSEMBLY
Measure the outer rotor diameter;
Before assembly, clean and lubricate the oil
pump;
Measure the inner rotor thickness;
Tighten the three bolts and place the pin (1) to
install the first gear;
To remove the shaft it is necessary to open the
left crankcase and open the oil pump (B) to
take out the other pin;
(1)
4 - 12
Install the circlips on both gears and certify that
the washers are installed on the upper gear;
Put the guide pins in their positions;
RIGHT CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY
Before the crankcase assembly lubricate all the
components;
After placing the pins and the new gasket,
insert the crankcase from the right side;
Note: insert the bolt placed behind the right
frame beam in the crankcase before assembly;
Place a new gasket;
4 - 13
With the tool keeping away the frame beam,
place the crankcase in its position;
Insert the clutch sleeve and the washer before
assembling the center sleeve;
Tighten the bolt placed behind the frame;
Get access to the bolt through the left side;
Install the water pump cover;
Place the washer and the nut ready to be
tightened;
Tight all the bolts that fix the right crankcase;
Install the clutch out case;
Place the clutch disks on the center sleeve;
With a proper glove, press the clutch disks
against each other while fastening the nut with
the pneumatic drill;
4 - 14
After tightening the nut with the proper torque,
place the washer in its original position;
Put the right crankcase cover by tightening the
5 bolts;
Place the pressure plate by tightening the 6
bolts/springs;
OIL PUMP (B) REMOVAL
LEFT CRANKCASE REMOVAL
Remove the gearshift pedal;
Install a new right crankcase cover gasket;
Remove the neutral connector;
4 - 15
Remove the eight bolts of the left crankcase
and pull it out;
Note: the oil pump rotor (A) has the same size
as the oil pump rotor (B).
Remove the oil pump rotor;
Remove the three bolts of the oil pump (B);
For inspection, use the same procedures on
(Page 4 – 11);
After the bolts removal, use a plier to take the
cover out;
4 - 16
OIL PUMP (B) ASSEMBLY;
LEFT CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY
After inspection, clean and lubricate;
The left crankcase assembly should be done by
reverse order of removal;
 Place the crankcase in its position, put
the guide pins and the gasket;
 Place the neutral connector by
tightening the bolt;
 Install the gearshift pedal;
 Install the sprocket cover.
Install the inner rotor aligned with the pin;
Insert the outer rotor;
4 - 17
LUBRICATION AND SEALING POINTS
ENGINE
LOCAL
LUBRICANT
REMARKS
Inner cylinder surface
Outer piston surface
Piston rings
Piston pin
Connecting rod hole
Timing chain
Camshaft lobes
Rocker arms shafts
Rocker arms rollers
Rocker arms kneecap
Valve guide/stem
All contact surfaces of transmission shafts
Transmission gears
Needle bearing of the C6 secondary gear
Shifting drum grooves
Transmission fork contact surface
Shifter shaft plate
Engine oil
Shifter shaft
Clutch star fixing pin/roller
Clutch basket hole surface
Clutch guide bushing surfaces
Clutch spacer discs
Thrust washer-to-thrust bearing at the Pressure plate
Clutch thrust pin tips
Oil pumps surfaces
Oil pumps rotors
Oil pump rotors shafts
Oil pump gears
All surfaces in contact with bearings
All surfaces in contact with seals
All seals
All screws and threads of the engine
Water pump shaft
Water pump pin and balancer
Water pump propeller thread
4 - 18
LOCAL
LUBRICANT
REMARKS
Timing chain guide pivot screw
Timing chain sprocket screw
Left camshaft bearing screw
Shifter selector Spring pin
Shifting drum cam screw
Shift fixing mechanism pivot
Loctite 243
Magnetic flywheel fixing screw
Stator fixing screws
Pick up fixing screws
Drive sprocket fixing screws
Crankcases contact surface
Silicone seal RTV
Cylinder head cover contact surface
Oil level display
Be careful not to apply
too much silicone seal
in order to not block the
oil circuit
Super glue
Lambda sensor thread
Anti-seizing paste
Piston pin
Piston pin hole
50% Dry
Molybdenum
Disulphide Paste and
50% engine oil
Mixture
Camshaft lobes
Rocker arms friction surface
Valve guide/valve stem
Transmission bearings surfaces
TORQUE VALUES
ITEM
QTY
DIMENSIONS
(mm)
TORQUE
N.m (kgf.m)
NOTE
Lubrication
Drain plug at the crankcase
1
M12x15
20 (2,0)
(+)
Main oil filter cap screws
2
M5x16
8 (0,8)
(*)
Secondary oil filter cap screws
3
M14x1
15 (1,5)
-
Oil cap
1
-
-
-
Right oil pump cap screw
3
M5x18
8 (0,8)
Left oil pump cap screws
3
M5x12
8 (0,8)
4 - 19
OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY SCHEME
4 - 20
Chapter 5 – ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
ENGINE REMOVAL / INSTALLATION
SERVICE INFORMATION
5–1
ENGINE INSTALLATION
5–9
ENGINE REMOVAL
5–2
TIGHTENING TORQUE
5 - 11
SERVICE INFORMATION
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE VALUES
ITEM
ENGINE OIL CAPACITY
SPECIFICATIONS
At draining
1,5 liter
At disassembly
1,7 liter
At oil filter change
1,6 liter
ENGINE DRY WEIGHT
GENERAL
 During removal and installation, support the
motorcycle with a work stand or box.
 A jack or adjustable support is required to
maneuver the engine.
 The following components can be serviced
with the engine installed in the frame:
- Oil pump (Chapter 4)
- Cylinder head/valves (Chapter 6)
- Cylinder/piston (Chapter 7)
- Clutch/gearshift linkage (Chapter 8)
- Alternator (Chapter 9)
 The following components require engine
removal for service:
- Crankshaft/balancer (Chapter 10)
- Transmission/shift forks/shift drum
(Chapter 11)
31 Kg
Swing arm pivot nut: 88 N.m (9,0 kgf.m)
Engine hanger plate bolt (10mm): 64 N.m
(6,5 kgf.m)
Engine hanger plate bolt (8mm): 26 N.m (2,7
kgf.m)
Foot peg mounting bolt: 42 N.m (4,3 kgf.m)
Drive sprocket bolt: 10 N.m (1,0 kgf.m)
Drive sprocket cover bolt: 12 N.m (1,2 kgf.m)
Note: As a precaution, disconnect the negative
terminal of the battery before any operation.
5 -1
ENGINE REMOVAL
Remove the seat;
To do the following operations, first take the
protection of the engine out;
Remove the liquid from the engine by
disassembling the bolt (1) on the right side of
the crankcase;
Remove the side covers by disassembling the
three bolts on each side;
For this operation use a specific recipient to
drain the liquid.
Remove engine oil
To drain the oil from the engine to a recipient
remove the oil drain plug (1) which is located on
the bottom at left side of the crankcase;
Loose the bolt and pull up the air filter box by
pressing from the bottom;
5 -2
Unplug stepper motors, TPS,
connectors from throttle body;
MAT/MAP
Loose the two bolts that fix the throttle body to
the engine;
Note: Use paper or plastic to cover the
admission to prevent dust or any other particles
or components to enter in the engine;
Loose the two bolts that fix the rectifier on the
battery support;
Disconnect the 3P connector;
Remove the three bolts of the battery support;
Remove the horn;
Remove radiators
Remove the battery.
Before taking the battery out, the terminals
must be disconnected;
Release the rubber band and pull out the
battery;
Note: It’s recommended to take the radiators off
to avoid damaging them. Check – chapter 18.
Remove the two water tubes on the left side;
5 -3
Remove the tube of the water pump on the right
side of the crankcase;
Disconnect the two connectors of the ECU;
Remove the other two tubes that are connected
to the right side radiator;
Disconnect the wires from the blower fan;
Loose the bolts that fix the radiators on the
chassis and take them off;
Release the spark plug cap;
Disconnect the following:
Alternator connectors;
Ignition pulse generator 2P connector;
Loose the two bolts that fix the ECU to the
chassis;
5 -4
Disassembly the electric starter cable;
Release the two bolts that fix the other part of
the exhaust pipe to the engine;
Remove the exhaust muffler
First remove the Oxygen sensor from the
exhaust curve;
Remove the bolt (1) that fixes the exhaust pipe
to the frame, then pull the exhaust pipe to take
it off;
Disassembly the clutch cable from the left
crankcase;
5 -5
Loose the bolts of sprocket’s cover;
It´s recommended to take off all the frame
reinforcement by disassembling the bolts (1),
(2) and (3);
If necessary loosen the four bolts (4) of the
frame to help taking out the reinforcement;
Remove bolts from frame reinforcement;
Take off the sprocket with a pneumatic tool;
Note: Instead of taking out the reinforcement
it’s possible to rotate the frame reinforcement
by disassembling the bolts (1) and (2) and with
a rubber/nylon hammer and a piece of
wood/nylon you can move it up;
Release the bolt (1);
Take the sprocket out and push the drive chain
to the right;
5 -6
Remove all the bolts that fix the engine to the
frame;
Take the pin out;
Take the support that fixes the engine to the
front frame out;
Release 5mm the two bolts from down side
frame;
Remove the bolt that fixes the bottom of the
engine to the frame;
With the pneumatic tool take out the bolt;
5 -7
Note: In this demonstration, the removal of the
engine was made without taking out the
radiators;
It requires experience to do it without damaging
the radiators;
Remove the engine through left side:
With left hand on flywheel’s cover and right
hand on clutch’s cover hold the engine, incline
engine’s head to back;
Then rotate engine left and pull it out from
frame.
Remove bolts from swing arm suspension link;
Pull back the swing arm;
! WARNING !
Don’t let the swing arm escape completely
from the frame, it may cut the rear brake’s oil
pipe.
5 -8
ENGINE INSTALLATION
Install the engine from the left side;
The engine’s installation should be done by
Screw the arm’s shaft according specified
torque value;
Screw the engine rear support’s with specified
torque value;
Screw the two bolts of bottom frame’s fixation to
the down side frame with specified torque
value;
Install the swing arm suspension link’s bolt in
swing arm, with specified torque value.
TORQUE:
Swingarm pivot bolts: 88 N.m (9,0 kgf.m)
Engine hanger plate bolt (10 mm): 64 N.m
(6,5 kgf.m)
Engine hanger plate bolt (8 mm): 26 N.m (2,7
kgf.m)
Suspension connecting rod: 42 Nm (4,3
kgf.m)
Certify that the drive chain is on the left side;
ASSEMBLY
Alternator connectors;
Pulse generator connector;
Clutch cable bracket on the right frame beam;
Spark plug cap;
Exhaust pipe’s join in cylinder head, exhaust
pipe and exhaust muffler;
Tight oxygen sensor in exhaust pipe with
specified torque value; 40~60 N.m
TORQUE:
Drive sprocket: 48,6 N.m (4,9 Kg.m)
5 -9
Tight the support that fixes the engine to the
front side frame and screw the three bolts;
Tight the two bolts that fixes the reinforcement
frame;
Tight the bolt in the middle that fixes the sub
frame reinforcement to the engine;
Tight the bolts on each side;
! ATENTION !
For safety reasons, after service operations
and after ride the motorcycle, push the
brake pedal several times until rear brake
actuates.
5 - 10
TIGHTENING TORQUE
ITEM
QTY
DIMENSIONS
(mm)
TORQUE
N.m (kgf.m)
NOTE
Frame / Exhaust:
Frame beams fixing bolts (top)
8
M6x20
12 (1,2)
-
Frame beams fixing bolts (bottom)
2
M10x40
39 (4,0)
-
Exhaust muffler fixing screw
1
M8x20
27 (2,7)
-
Exhaust pipe flange nut
1
M8
25 (2,5)
-
Flange screw
1
M8x25
22 (2,2)
-
Engine skid plate screws
3
M6x20
12 (1,2)
-
Frame reinforcement screw (at the under frame)
1
M8X50
32 (3,3)
-
Frame reinforcement screw (at the frame beams)
2
M8x30
32 (3,3)
-
Cylinder head support bolt
1
M10x50
39 (4,0)
-
Front/top engine fixing bolt
1
M10x120
39 (4,0)
-
Front/bottom fixing bolt
1
M10x110
39 (4,0)
-
Parafusos fixação do suporte do motor no quadro
2
M8x20
25 (2,5)
-
Battery bracket screws
3
M6
10 (1,0)
-
Regulator/rectifier screws
2
M6
10 (1,0)
-
Plastic front covers screw
4
M6x16
12 (1,2)
-
Side cover screws
10
M6
10 (1,0)
-
Drive sprocket cover screw
2
M6x25
10 (1,0)
-
Drive sprocket fixing screw
1
M10x1.25
48,6 (4,9)
-
4
M6x12
10 (1,0)
-
6
M5x20
4~5 (0,5)
-
2
M6x20
10 (1,0)
-
1
M6x90
10 (1,0)
-
2
M6x50
12 (1,2)
-
1
M18x1,50
40~60
-
Primary foot pegs brackets screws
2
M10x35/40
42 (4,3)
Secondary foot pegs brackets
2
M6x25/35
12 (1,2)
-
Frame reinforcement bolt
1
M8X50 flange
32 (3,3)
-
Frame reinforcement bolt (at the frame beams)
2
M8x30 flange
32 (3,3)
-
1
M8x50 flange
32 (3,3)
-
Drive sprocket
Fuel system
Fuel tank fixing screws
Fuel pump fixing screws
Intake manifold screws
Air filter screw
ECU fixing screws
Oxygen (lambda) sensor
(4,1~6,1)
Engine install/removal
Sensor de oxigénio na curva do escape
-
5 - 11
Chapter 6 – Cylinder head / Valves
SERVICE INFORMATION
6–1
TIMING CHAIN REMOVAL
6 – 11
TROUBLESHOOTING
6–3
CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL
6 – 13
6–4
VALVES REMOVAL
6 – 14
CAMSHAFT REMOVAL
6–6
VALVE SEAT INSPECTION AND
REFACING
6 – 16
CAMSHAFT INSPECTION
6–8
CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY
6 – 18
CAMSHAFT ASSEMBLY
6–9
CAMSHAFT ASSEMBLY
6 – 18
CYLINDER
REMOVAL
CYLINDER
ASSEMBLY
HEAD
HEAD
COVER
COVER
6 – 10
SERVICE INFORMATION
SPECIFICATION
SERVICE
LIMIT
11,6:1
-
11,0 Kg/cm2
-
-
0,10
IN
EX
0,05 ± 0,02
0,08 ± 0,02
-
O.D. of the valve stem
IN / EX
4,975 – 4,990
4,960
I.D. valve guide
IN / EX
5,000 – 5,012
5,03
IN
0,010 – 0,037
0,07
0,030 – 0,057
0,09
IN
28,00
-
EX
24,00
-
IN
100
-
EX
100
-
IN / EX
1,2 – 1,5
2,0
48,60
45,0
(22x48,6x15)
-
ELEMENT
ITEM
Compression ratio
Standard
Cylinder compression
Standard ( 77 mm)
Maximum warpage
Valve clearance
Stem-to-guide clearance
Valves
Valve diameter
Valve length
Contact band width
Valve springs
Length
(dimensions)
EX
IN / EX
6 -1
I.D. rocker arm hole
IN / EX
11,500 – 11,518
11,53
O.D. rocker arm shaft
IN / EX
11,466 – 11,484
11,41
Clearance
IN / EX
0,016 – 0,052
0,100
Diameter of the rollers
IN / EX
-
-
IN
Acts at the right cam
-
EX
Acts at the left cam
-
Rocker arm clearance adjusters
IN / EX
M6x0,7 with knee
-
Rocker arms hole
IN / EX
12,000 – 12,015
11,950
Rocker arm
Rocker arm identification
O.D. rocker arm shaft
Two screws 12.9
Rocker arms retaining
IN / EX
Caps of the tdc inspection hole
IN / EX
M14x1
-
Caps sealing
IN / EX
11,8x2,6
-
IN
36,25
35,95
EX
36,30
36,00
IN
29,40
29,10
EX
29,25
28,95
IN / EX
12,00
-
-
0,00
0,05
12,000
-
6201
-
Centrifuge (Acts on the
exhaust cam lobe)
-
Installing position of the washer at the
left bearing
With the ledge facing
the de-compressor
-
Oil channel from cylinder to valve train
Hole in the crankcase
surface near front left
screw
-
Cam lobe high
Cam lobe diameter
Cam lobe width
Camshaft
Maximum radial warpage
O.D. of the outer supports
Camshaft bearings
Automatic de-compressor
Cylinder head
lubrication
(DIN 912-M6x62)
-
6 -2
GENERAL
This chapter is relative to the cylinder head,
valves and camshaft service;
During the disassembling mark and keep all
parts to assure that are installed in correct
position;
Clean all disassembled parts with cleaning
solvent and dry it with compressed air before
inspection;

Cylinder head:
o Leaking or damaged head gasket;
o Distorted or cracked cylinder head;

Excessive smoke:
o Worn valve stem;
o Worn valve guide;
o Damaged valve stem seal.

Excessive noise:
o Incorrect valve adjustment;
o Sticking valve or broken spring valve;
o Worn or damaged rocker arm or
camshaft;
o Loose or worn timing chain;
o Worn or damaged timing chain
tensioner;
o Worn or damaged timing chain
sprocket teeth;

Rough idle
o Low cylinder compression;
o Intake air leak;
Be careful to not damage the contact surfaces
when remove the cylinder head and its cover;
TORQUES
Cylinder head cover bolts: 12 N.m (1,2
kgf.m)
Cylinder head cover bolt (8mm): 24 N.m (2,4
kgf.m)
Rocker shaft: 27 N.m (2,8 kgf.m)
Sub-rocker shaft: 23 N.m (2,3 kgf.m)
Camshaft sprocket bolt: 20 N.m (2,0 kgf.m)
Cylinder head bolt (10mm): 39 N.m (4,0
kgf.m)
Cylinder head bolt (6mm): 10 N.m (1,0 kgf.m)
Timing chain tensioner plate bolt: 10 N.m
(1,0 kgf.m)
Oil pass pipe bolt (7mm): 12 N.m (1,2 kgf.m)
Hole valve cap: 15 N.m (1,5 kgf.m)
Note: Before install any component, clean with
proper products and lubricate the components
when necessary.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Troubles on engine upper side affect the engine
performance. These problems can be detected
by a compression or noise test, using a
stethoscope.
If performance is reduced at low speeds, check
for white smoke on crankcase breather tube;
If the pipe expels smoke check for ring piston
damage;
Low compression:
 Valves:
o Incorrect valve adjustment;
o Burned or bent valve;
o Incorrect valve timing;
o Weak valve spring;
6 -3
CYLINDER
REMOVAL
HEAD
(2)
COVER
(1)
Remove the seat;
Remove the air filter and its box;
Remove the battery and battery bracket;
Remove the rectifier by disassembling the two
bolts that fix it to the battery support and then
pull out the connectors;
Release the bolt (3) and remove the two bolts
(4) to turn up the reinforcement;
(3)
Remove the horn and the bolt underneath the
support and then pull out the support;
(4)
Rotate upward the frame reinforcement to have
space to remove the valves cap;
! WARNING !
Be careful to not damage the cylinder head
when rotating the reinforcement frame.
Note: To avoid damaging the ECU
recommendable to take the ECU out.
it’s
Release the two bolts (1) that fix the ECU to the
frame and remove the connectors, for better
access remove the bolt (2) that fixes ignition
coil;
6 -4
Remove valves cap to unbolt the eight bolts of
the cylinder head;
Note: Loosen the bolts in crisscross pattern in 2
or 3 steps;
Loosen first the smallest bolts;
ROCKER ARMS AND SHAFTS INSPECTION
Remove the rocker shafts from the cylinder
head cover;
Measure the rocker shafts outer diameter;
After cylinder head removal, inspect for any
damage;
SERVICE LIMIT:
ROCKER SHAFT (ADM/EX): 11,41 mm
Note: Note the all parts position during the
disassembly, in order to install the parts in right
position during the assembly;
6 -5
Remove the rocker arms from the cylinder head
cover;
Check the cylinder head cover condition;
Note: be aware of the initial position of the
components to help when reassembling;
ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY
Install the components on the reverse order of
installation, lubricate and check the rocker arms
assembly condition after installation;
SERVICE LIMIT:
ROCKER SHAFT HOLE: 11,53mm
Rocker arm clearance adjusters;
Check for rocker arm tuners damaged.
CAMSHAFT REMOVAL
After removing all the eight bolts of the cylinder
head cover, remove the left crankcase cap to
have a better access for the next operations;
Check rocker arms condition;
6 -6
Take the camshaft out to the side illustrated on
the image;
Take the cap out and rotate the crankshaft until
you reach the two bolts of the timing driven
sprocket;
Untight the two bolts
First rotate the crankshaft;
Tight the timing chain with a wire to avoid that
timing chain falls into crankcase;
Remove the first bolt;
Remove the second bolt;
DRIVEN SPROCKET REMOVAL
After removing the camshaft move away the
cam sprocket from the timing chain;
6 -7
Verify the sprocket and search for any damage;
SERVICE LIMIT:
INTAKE: 35,95 mm
EXHAUST: 36,00 mm
SUPPORT: 12,00 mm
Check the decompression spring condition on
the camshaft;
CAMSHAFT INSPECTION
Check for camshaft lobe damaged or wear;
CAMSHAFT BEARING INSPECTION
Rotate with the finger the inner bearing track;
Note: If camshaft lobe is damaged, inspect the
rocker arm sliding surface;
Bearings should rotate smoothly without noise;
Replace it if are damaged;
Measure cam lobe height (2) and check the
support (1).
6 -8
CAMSHAFT ASSEMBLY
Before installation clean and lubricate the
camshaft;
Apply Loctite in the bolts;
First put the sprocket in its position;
Put the camshaft through the right side;
Tight the two bolts that fixes the driven sprocket
to the camshaft;
Rotate the crankshaft to apply the two bolts;
Install the camshaft in its position;
6 -9
CYLINDER
ASSEMBLY
HEAD
COVER
After the proper installation of the camshaft, it’s
necessary to lubricate all the components on
the cylinder head;
Apply silicone on the cylinder head cover and
lubricate before installation;
Before the installation of the colloid seal, certify
yourself that the stop plate is in its position;
Apply silicone on the colloid seal of the
camshaft;
Be sure that the pins are on their position;
Place the colloid seal on the cylinder head;
6 - 10
Remove the gear selector;
Install the cylinder head cover;
Remove the neutral connector;
TIMING CHAIN REMOVAL
Remove the cylinder head cover;
Remove the eight bolts of the left crankcase;
Note: as a precaution, use a recipient
underneath the engine, it may occur engine oil
fall when removing the crankcase.
Remove left crankcase
Remove the protection of the engine;
Remove the cover of the sprocket;
6 - 11
After the crankcase removal, rotate the
magnetic flywheel until you get the bolts of the
timing driven sprocket;
Hold the key on the flywheel to unbolt;
Take the sprocket out;
With the help of a screwdriver take the chain
out from the sprocket;
Note: It’s not necessary to take the magnetic
flywheel out;
! WARNING !
Be careful to not damage the timing chain
when doing the removal.
Pull the camshaft out;
6 - 12
Remove the exhaust muffler. First disassemble
the rear part side by removing the two fixing
bolts;
Pull the timing chain out;
Remove the exhaust muffler by disassembling
the bolt that fixes the exhaust pipe to the rear
frame. Pull out the exhaust muffler;
CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL
Remove cylinder head cover (page 6-6)
Remove the passing oil pipes bolts and two
sealing washers on the cylinder head;
Remove the intake hose;
Remove the two M6x90 bolts from timing chain
tensioner set plate;
Remove tensioner set plate;
Remove the blower fan connectors;
Remove the radiator connection tube;
Remove the Oxygen sensor;
Remove the two bolts that fix the exhaust pipe;
Remove throttle body;
6 - 13
Note: it’s not necessary to take all the injection
body out; you can fix it with a wire to the frame;
Cover the admission to avoid any dust or
component to fall into the admission;
! WARNING !
Be careful not to damage cylinder head
contact surface.
Note: Loosen the bolts in crisscross pattern in 2
or 3 steps;
Unbolt all the cylinder head bolts and pull up
the cylinder head;
VALVES REMOVAL
Remove the spring valve caps, retainers,
springs and base stem washers with a valve
spring compressor;
Remove the gaskets;
6 - 14
! WARNING !
To avoid tension loosing, don’t compress the
springs more than necessary to remove the
plates.
Note: Mark all valves to make sure that are
installed in correct positions.
Every time that stem valves seal is removed,
replace it.
CYLINDER HEAD INSPECTION
Remove the carbon deposits from combustion
chamber or exhaust pipe.
Clean the gasket surface for any gasket
material, using a properly clean product;
Verify that the valves are leak-proof;
SERVICE LIMIT:
VALVES INSPECTION
Clean each valve, removing every carbon
deposits with a circular grind brush;
! WARNING !
Be careful to not scratch the combustion
chamber or the cylinder joint surface.
Check for cracks in spark plug hole and valve
seats area.
Check for warpage with a straight edge and a
feeler gauge;
Check each valve for scratches, burnings and
steam wear;
Check the valve guide movement;
Measure and record the valve stem outer
diameter;
SERVICE LIMIT:
INTAKE: 4,46mm
EXHAUST: 4,46 mm
Insert each valve in the valve guide’s hole and
check the free movement without clearances;
Note: Clean cylinder surface from any gasket
material too. It’s necessary to remove carbon
deposits from piston too, every time during the
service operations
VALVE SPRING INSPECTION
Measure the outer spring length;
6 - 15
Calculate the stem-to-guide clearance.
VALVE GUIDE INSPECION
Clean the valve guide before measure valve
guide inner diameter;
Insert a 5mm mandrel by combustion chamber
side and rotate it always in clockwise up to it
complete removal from valves;
SERVICE LIMIT:
INTAKE: 0,07 mm
EXHAUST: 0,09 mm
Note: if the clearance exceeds the service limit,
check if a new valve guide will restore the
steam-to-guide clearance. In this case, replace
all necessary valve guides.
If the clearance between valve guide and stem
still exceed the service limit after new valve
guides, replace the valves.
Note: Reface the valve seats whenever new
valve guides are installed.
VALVE SEAT INSPECTION AND
REFACING
Clean the intake and exhaust to remove carbon
deposits;
Measure and record each valve guide inner
diameter;
Apply emery paste coating on each valve face;
Rotate and pull for valve refacing.
Use a gauge or inner micrometer;
SERVICE LIMIT:
INTAKE/EXHAUST: 5,03 mm
6 - 16

Damaged face:
o Replace valve and reface the valve seat;
Measure the valve contact band;
STANDARD: 1,1 – 1,2 mm
SERVICE LIMIT: 2,0 mm
If valve seat is too wide, too strict or had low
points, the valve set must be grinded;
VALVES REPLACEMENT
Note: valve cannot be grinded. If valve surface
is burned, badly worn or the contact with the
seat is not continuously, replace the valve.
Install new seals on the valve guides;
Lubricate each valve steam and inner surface
with molybdenum bisulphite oil, and insert the
valve on valve guide. To avoid damage the
stem seal, slowly rotate the valve when it is
inserted;
Install the two washers on each valve base;
Install the valve spring with cut face turned to
combustion chamber and install the retainer’s
caps;
Note: To be successful on refacing valves are
necessary properly tools not provided by AJP
Motos.
Compress the valve spring using a valve
compressor and install the retainers, making
sure that it fitting in stem notch is perfect, in
order to guarantee maximum safety during the
valves assembling;
Remove the valve and inspect its surface:
 Unequal seating wide;
o Valve stem bent or broken;
o Replace valve and reface the seat;
6 - 17
Install the 10x20 dowel pins in the cylinder;
Install the new gasket on the cylinder;
! DANGER !
Be careful to not damage the contact surface
on the cylinder head.
Apply an engine oil drop on each cylinder head
screw thread and tighten the 10mm bolts in a
crisscross pattern 2 or 3 steps, without exceed
the specified torque value;
! DANGER !
To avoid tension loosing, don´t compress the
valve springs more than necessary.
Place cylinder head on workspace to avoid
possible valve damage, and beat lightly with
rubber hammer to test the correct retainer
installation in valve retaining caps.
CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY
Remove the gasket and 10x20 dowel bushings.
Clean the piston head;
Clean the gasket surface, removing any
material from old gasket;
Check for warpage with a straight edge and a
feeler gauge;
Install the timing chain guide.
Note: Adjust the timing chain guide band to fit
the sprocket in the cylinder notches;
Push the timing chain guide until it fit on
crankcase lower side;
Install the cylinder head, keeping the timing
chain stretched by a wire;
To the final tighten use a dynamometric key;
TORQUE: 39 N.m (4,0 kgf.m)
Install the timing chain’s tensioner set plate.
Apply screw locking glue on M6x90 bolts of the
timing chain’s tensioner set plate;
Install and tighten the two set plate M6x90 bolts
and M6x70 in the timing chain chamber with the
specified torque value.
Note: Never exceed the specified torque value
from cylinder head bolts.
Install the oil passing tube with M8 bolts and
two
new
aluminium
sealing
washers
(8,2x14,5x1,5).
CAMSHAFT ASSEMBLY
Apply oil on the camshaft bearings and install
the left one first on the camshaft.
Note: the two 6003Z camshaft bearings, always
with metallic shield facing to cylinder head
outside.
Apply molybdenum bisulphite oil on the cam
lobe and on the cylinder head central support.
Install the retaining bushings of the camshaft
bearings on the cylinder head.
To put the piston on top dead centre (TDC),
rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise, in order
to align the flywheel “|” mark with the notch in
6 - 18
the left crankcase hole cap.
Install the cam sprocket.
Rotate the magnetic flywheel counter
clockwise. Install the other cam sprocket bolt;
Align the timing marks of the cam sprocket, with
cylinder head top surface;
Install the timing chain on the cam sprocket.
Note: Apply screw locking glue on the cam
sprocket bolts;
Install the 6003Z bearing on the left side with
the shield facing out.
Relax tensioner stress, keeping the tensioner
wedge pressed.
Note: fit the cam sprocket on cam sprocket on
the camshaft with the marks (- -) (1) aligned to
the cylinder head face;
If “T”/”OUT” marks exist, it should be facing
forward;
Install the camshaft by the cam sprocket hole,
with cam lobes facing up, after rotate it to fit in
the right bearing.
Fit the cam sprocket on the camshaft shoulder
and check the timing marks alignment;
Install the M7x10 bolt on top;
Tighten the cam sprocket bolt on the notch
side.
Tighten the other side cam sprocket bolt, with
the specified torque value.
Put the engine on top dead centre
(compression stroke);
Rotate the flywheel/crankshaft until cam lobes
be turned-down;
On that position, the “|” mark should be aligned
with inspection hole notch of the left crankcase
cover. Simultaneously, the cam sprocket (- -)
marks should be parallel with cylinder head
surface (“T” or “OUT” marks facing forward).
6 - 19
CHAPTER 7 – Piston / Cylinder
SERVICE INFORMATION
7-1
PISTON ASSEMBLY
7-7
TROUBLESHOOTING
7-2
CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
7-8
CYLINDER REMOVAL
7-3
TENSIONER REMOVAL
7-9
CYLINDER INSPECTION
7-4
TENSIONER ASSEMBLY
7-9
PISTON REMOVAL
7-4
CYLINDER AND PISTON
ASSEMBLY SCHEME
7 - 10
PISTON/ PISTON RINGS
INSPECTION
7-5
SERVICE INFORMATION
GENERAL
This chapter covers the cylinder and piston
maintenance. These service operations can
be done with the engine installed in the
frame;
During the disassembly, mark and store all
pieces to ensure that it will be installed on the
right positions;
Clean the disassembled parts with a cleaning
solvent and dry them by blowing compressed
air before inspection;
Be careful to not damage the contact
surfaces, when remove the cylinder from the
crankcase.
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATION
SERVICE
LIMIT
77,000 – 77,010
77,025
-
0,10
NIKAZIL
-
Cylinder outer height
98,50
-
Cylinder inner height
51,05
ELEMENT
ITEM
Inner diameter
Maximum warpage
Cylinder
Inner coating
Left side inscription
3
NC250 (NH.1 249CM )
-
Cylinder gasket
Material: Waxed cardboard
Thickness: 0,50mm
-
Cylinder head gasket
Triple steel sheet
Thickness; 1,0mm
-
Piston coating
Antifriction - Graphite
-
O.D. of piston
76,965 – 76,985 (at 20
mm from the skirt’s
bottom.
76,90
0,015 – 0,045
0,10
Piston
Cylinder to piston clearance
7-1
I.D. piston pin hole
16,002 – 16,008
16,04
O.D. piston pin
15,994 – 16,000
15,98
Pin-to-hole clearance
0,002 – 0,014
0,06
Groove-topiston ring
clearance
Top
0,015 – 0,050
0,12
Secondary
0,015 – 0,050
0,12
Top
0,15 – 0,30
0,40
Secondary
0,30 – 0,45
0,55
0,2 – 0,7
0,86
“DY” facing up
-
“D” facing up
-
Piston orientation
Arrow faced to the
exhaust side
-
I.D. connecting rod hole for
pin
16,016 – 16,034
16,06
Connecting rod’s hole-to-pin
clearance
0,016 – 0,040
0,09
16x46x8,8
-
Clearance at
the ring tip
Oil (rail side)
Piston
Ring mark
Top
Secondary
Piston pin dimensions
TORQUE VALUES
Cylinder bolts (10 mm): 39 N.m (4,0 kgf.m)
Apply oil to the thread and flange surface
Cylinder bolt (6 mm): 12 N.m (1,2 kgf.m)
Cylinder head-to-cylinder screw: 10N.m (1,0
kgf.m)
TROUBLESHOOTING


Problems on the engine top-end
usually affect the engine performance.
These problems can be detected by a
compression tests or by checking for
noises with a stethoscope.
If the performance is poor at low
speeds, check for white smoke in the
crankcase breather tube. If the tube is
smoking, check if piston is seized.
Low compression
 Worn cylinder or piston rings.
High compression
 Excessive carbon deposits on piston
crown or combustion chamber.
Excessive smoke
 Worn cylinder, piston or piston rings;
 Incorrect piston rings assembly;
 Scratched piston or cylinder wall.
Rough idle
 Low cylinder compression.
Overheating
 Excessive carbon deposits on piston
crown or combustion chamber.
Knocking or abnormal noise
 Worn piston or cylinder;
 Excessive carbon deposits;
7-2
CYLINDER REMOVAL
Pull the guide chain;
Note: Check chapter 6 to see the procedures
before the cylinder removal.
Remove the exhaust muffler and pipe;
Remove the spark plug cap;
Remove the battery and battery bracket;
Remove the air filter and its box;
Remove the injection group;
Remove the starter motor;
Remove the frame beam reinforcement bolts,
turn up the reinforcement;
Rotate upward the frame reinforcement until
detach from the cylinder head cover fixation;
Remove the cylinder head cover from the
cylinder and the gasket with 8x14 dowel
bushings;
Remove the camshaft with cam sprocket;
Tighten the timing chain with a wire to the
right frame beam, in order to keep the timing
chain stretched, preventing the removal from
the timing chain sprocket;
Remove the cylinder head (page 6 – 13) and
the cylinder gasket with 10x20 dowel pins;
Remove the timing chain guide;
Remove the 6 mm side bolts from the
cylinder;
Remove the cylinder bolts with washers,
carefully to not scratch the engine interior;
Fix a wire to the timing chain;
Note: Loosen the bolts in crisscross
pattern in 2 or 3 steps.
Remove the cylinder gasket with 10x20
dowel bushings;
With the wire fixed to the timing chain, pull
the cylinder out;
Before cylinder removal, check for any
damage on the timing chain guide;
7-3
CYLINDER INSPECTION
Check for scratches and wear on the cylinder
walls.
Calculate the cylinder taper in three levels.
Consider
the
maximum
reading
to
determinate the taper value.
Calculate the cylinder for out-of-round at
three levels;
Consider
the
maximum
reading
to
determinate the pit-of-round;
Check for cylinder top warpage.
PISTON REMOVAL
Measure and record the cylinder inner
diameter on three different levels;
Consider the maximum reading to the wear
determination.
Put a protection coat on the crankcases to
avoid that circlips or others parts drop into the
engine during the removal;
Remove the circlip from the piston pin;
7-4
Pull out the piston pin from the piston;
Check the piston outer diameter;
Note:

Be careful to not damage the piston
surface during the carbon cleaning;
Measure the piston diameter 20mm below
from the skirt;
PISTON/PISTON RINGS
INSPECTION
Remove the piston rings;
Remove the carbon deposits from the piston
head and piston ring grooves;
Check for damage or wear in the piston rings
or ring grooves;
7-5
Calculate the cylinder-to-piston clearance,
subtracting the maximum inner cylinder
diameter to the inner maximum piston
diameter;
Check for damage or wear in the timing chain
guide;
Measure the piston pin bore;
SERVICE LIMIT: 16.04 mm
Measure the piston pin outer diameter;
Tension plate removal
Before the tension plate removal, check Page
9 – 3 for magnetic flywheel removal;
SERVICE LIMIT: 15.98 mm
Calculate the bore-to-piston pin clearance;
CONNECTING ROD SMALL END
INSPECTION
Remove the bolt that fixes the tension plate;
Measure the inner diameter of the connecting
rod small end;
Calculate the piston pin-to-connecting rod
small end clearance;
7-6
Pull out the tension plate;
Check the tension plate condition;
The ring with mark “D” is the secondary ring;
!WARNING!
The piston rings crack easily. Be careful
to not damage it during the service
operations.
PISTON ASSEMBLY
Clean the piston grooves thorousghly by
holding a ring in the grooves while turning the
piston;
!WARNING!
Do not use a wire brush to clean the ring
tracks or cut tracks deeper with a
cleaning tool.
PISTON RING ASSEMBLY
Be careful with piston rings position. Must be
installed with “D” and “DY” marks faced
upward. If the marks are not visible, record
the piston ring position during the removal;
The ring with “DY” is the top ring;
Apply engine oil on the piston rings.
Install the piston rings according to the
assembly scheme (Page 7 - 10).
Note:
 Be careful to not damage the
piston rings during the assembly;
 Install the piston rings on the
piston with marks faced upward;
 After the piston ring assembly, it
should rotate loosely, without
sticking;
 Put the piston ring end gaps 120
degrees apart;
 Do not align the piston ring end
gap with the piston pin hole or 90
degrees to the piston pin hole;
 Space the side rail gaps 40 mm or
more apart as shown.
Apply molybdenum bisulfite oil to the
connecting rod small end and piston pin.
Note: cover the piston skirt and the
crankcase to prevent the piston circlips from
falling into the crankcase, during the piston
assembly;
Install the piston with the Arrow faced to the
exhaust side;
Install the piston pin and the circlip;
7-7
Note:
 Do not align the circlips with the
piston cut-out;
 Be careful to not drop piston circlip
in the crankcase;
 Remove the protection cover;
Press the piston rings for the cylinder
assembly;
CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
Clean carefully any sealing material from the
cylinder and crankcase contact surface.
Note: During the cylinder and cylinder
head removal/assembly, the timing chain
should be stretched.
!WARNING!
Be careful to not damage the cylinder contact
surface.
Install the 10x20 dowel pins and a new
gasket on the crankcases;
7-8
!WARNING!
Check the tensioner condition;
Certify yourself that the bolts are tightened
with specified torque value, using a
dynamometric key with a 12mm socket
wrench.
TORQUE: 39 N.m (4.0 kgf.m)
Note: Tighten the bolts in a crisscross
pattern in 2 or 3 steps.
TENSIONER REMOVAL
TENSIONER ASSEMBLY
Remove the tensioner plug;
Install the components by reverse order of
removal;
Tight the two bolts;
Remove the tensioner lifter by loosen the two
bolts;
With a screw driver insert the tensioner;
Tight the tensioner plug;
7-9
PISTON RINGS ASSEMBLY SCHEME
Top ring “DY” faced upward;
Secondary ring “D” faced upward;
Oil ring
CYLINDER ASSEMBLY SCHEME
1 – Pin 13x14
2 – Gasket assy, cylinder head
3 – Bolt M6x25
4 – Plug of tightener
5 – Gasket, tensioner
6 – Cylinder block assembly
7 – Cylinder gasket
8 – Pin 6x12
7 - 10
CHAPTER 8 – Clutch
TROUBLESHOOTING
8-1
GEARSHIFT MECHANISM
8-8
SERVICE INFORMATION
8-2
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
8-9
CLUTCH DISK REMOVAL
8-3
STANDARD CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
SCHEME
CLUTCH CENTER
SLEEVE/OUTER CASE
8-5
8 – 10
GENERAL
This section covers maintenance of the clutch, oil pump, gearshift linkage and right crankcase
cover. These services can be done with the engine installed in the frame.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Faulty clutch operation can usually be
corrected by adjusting the clutch lever free
play.
Clutch does not work:
 Too much free play;
 Warped plates/discs.
Motorcycle creeps with clutch disengaged:
 Too much free play;
 Warped plates/discs.
Excessive lever pressure:
 Clutch cable kinked, damaged or
dirty;
Clutch slips when accelerating
 No free play;
 Disc worn;
 Weak springs.
 Lifter mechanism damaged.
Clutch operation feels rough:
- Clutch cable dirty, without lubrication,
smashed cable or improperly
installed;
 Outer drum slots rough.
Note: Before any operation remove the
engine oil and refrigerant liquid.
8-1
SERVICE INFORMATION
SPECIFICATION
SERVICE
LIMIT
Lever clearance
10 – 20
5
Coated discs
6 units
-
(2 x No1 + 4 x No2)
-
Coated discs No 1
Installed next to the
aluminium plates
-
Coated discs No 2
Installed with the
sheet metal discs
-
ELEMENT
ITEM
3,00– 3,10
Coated disc thickness
Coated disc max. warpage
-
Sheet metal discs
5
Sheet metal discs thickness
Sheet metal
warpage
discs
max.
Space for disc’s teeth
Clutch outer case
I.D. of clutch bushing
Clutch
I.D. guiding bushing of the
clutch
1,17
2,80
0,30
1,10
-
0,10
23,50 (25,00)
23,75 (25,20)
Z64
25,000 – 25,021
25,04
19,990 – 20,010
20,03
O.D. guiding bushing of the
clutch
24,929 – 24,980
24,17
O.D. of primary shaft at the
clutch outer guide
19,959 – 19,980
19,91
4,00
3,90
Centre clutch thickness (R1)
Pressure plate thickness (R1)
Clutch springs
Spring’s retaining bolts
Thrust bearing
Pin/bearing washer
Pressure pin height
Clutch lever shaft
11,00
16,5x32,7x11,5
M5x25 (6x)
AXK 1528
15x1x28
52 mm
Ø14 mm (splined
9,7mm)
10,90
-
8-2
CLUTCH DISKS REMOVAL
Note: For clutch disks removal it’s not
necessary to remove the right crankcase
cover.
Note: Place a vat down the engine to
collect any used oil waste.
Remove the bolts of the right crankcase
cover;
To pull the cover out press the brake pedal;
Inspect the spring for any damage;
Note:
 Be careful to not damage the gasket;
 Remove any burr;
Check for any leak on the right crankcase
cover disks;
Note: The clutch springs should be
replaced in group, if one of them is out of
service limit.
Measure spring dimensions;
Remove the six bolts and respective springs
that fix the pressure plate;
8-3
Pull out the pressure plate by pressing the
rear brake pedal;
Verify if the pressure plate is badly worn out;
Remove clutch disks;
Verify 6 coated disks condition;
Measure the thickness of the pressure plate;
Measure the clutch disks thickness;
Note: The clutch springs should be
replaced in group, if one of them is out of
service limit.
Service Limit: 2,80 mm
8-4
Verify 5 metal disks condition;
Verify the rod and bearing condition;
CENTER SLEEVE/ OUTER CASE
Check for disk warpage, on a flat surface and
a feeler gauge;
Measure disk thickness;
CENTER SLEEVE/ OUTER CASE
REMOVAL
Put the clutch disks in its position to do the
center sleeve removal;
Place the washer in the right position to
remove the nut;
Remove the bearing and the rod;
For the nut removal use a pneumatic tool.
With a proper glove stop the clutch disks
when using the pneumatic;
8-5
Pull the center sleeve out with the clutch
disks;
Verify the contact surface of the center sleeve
and check if there is any damaged parts;
Pull the outer case out from the right
crankcase;
Measure the inner and outer diameter of the
clutch outer guide;
SERVICE LIMIT: I.D: 20,03 mm
O.D.: 24,17 mm
CLUTCH CENTER SLEEVE/ OUTER
CASE ASSEMBLY
Insert the clutch outer case in its place;
Measure the thickness of the center sleeve;
Insert the clutch sleeve and the washer;
8-6
Insert the center sleeve;
discs alternately, beginning with a coated
(friction) disk;
With a pneumatic tool and pressing the disks
tight the nut;
Apply the stop washer and the nut;
Put the washer in its correct position;
Check the disks number and insert each disk
in its position;
Install the pressure plate by assembling the
six bolts/springs;
Install a new gasket;
Coat the clutch discs with engine oil;
Install the pressure plate on the clutch outer;
Install the 6 friction discs and the 5 metallic
8-7
(1)
Tight the bolts of the right crankcase cover
with the required torque;
START CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
Pull the gearshift lever to install the star
clutch;
Before the bolt assembly apply Loctite on the
thread;
Torque: 10 Nm (1,0kgf.m)
GEARSHIFT MECHANISM
Remove the right crankcase (page 4 – 7);
GEARSHIFT LEVER REMOVAL
Pull out the gearshift lever;
STAR CLUTCH REMOVAL
Remove the bolt (1) and press the gearshift
lever to pull out the star clutch;
8-8
Check the gearshift lever condition;
Install the thrust washer over the outer clutch
on the main shaft;
Install the clutch cable and clutch arm. Adjust
the free play;
Note: The clutch arm on the engine should
start working about 1/3 of the total travel; If
it’s not the case and there is too much
clearance, remove the engine cover and put
a steel washer (16,5x24x0,5) or (16,5x24x1)
between the lifter piece and the lifter bearing
to achieve the properly service position of the
clutch arm.
Since the lever free play diminishes with
coated discs wear, metal sheet discs and
pressure plate, the cable tuners should be
installed such be possible adjust the properly
lever free play.
10 – 20 mm
GEARSHIFT LEVER ASSEMBLY
The gearshift assembly is done by the
When assembly the gearshift lever pull the
spring in to introduce in its place;
Lubricate the mechanism;
Install
two
new
sealing
washers
(8,2x14,5x1,5) on the oil duct racord;
Tighten the bolts with specified torque value.
TORQUE: 12 N.m (1,2 kgf.m).
Install the exhaust pipe (page 1-5);
Install the brake pedal;
Install the crankcase protection (page 1-5);
Fill up the engine with recommended oil
(page 2-11);
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
Apply molybdenum bisulfite oil at the outer
face of the clutch outer guide;
Install the clutch outer guide on the main
shaft;
Align the primary drive gear tooth and the
clutch outer tooth.
Install the clutch outer;
Proceed with following inspection and
tunings:
 Free play clutch lever (page 2-17);
 Rear brake pedal height (page 2-15);
Note: Press the rear brake pedal several
times until it operational, before proceed with
a dynamic test (on the road).
8-9
STANDARD CLUTCH ASSEMBLY SCHEME
Legend:
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
Washer 20,2x1,8x34
Sleeve Clutch
Outer case assembly, clutch
Center sleeve, clutch
Drive friction disk
Outer friction disk A
Stop washer, clutch
Nut M16x1
Rod, clutch push
Bearing (AXK1528)
Washer 15x1x28
Spring, clutch
Pressure plate, clutch
Washer 5,2x2x17
Bolt M5x25
Clutch Assy
Pushing rod, clutch
8 - 10
Chapter 10 – Gearbox – Crankshaft – Balance shaft
SERVICE INFORMATION
10 - 1
CRANKCASE BEARINGS
REPLACEMENT
10 - 6
TROUBLESHOOTING
10 - 4
GEARBOX DISASSEMBLY
10 - 7
CRANKCASE SEPARATION
10 - 4
CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY
10 - 11
CRANKSHAFT AND BALANCE
SHAFT REMOVAL
10 - 5
CRANKCASES AND
GEARBOX SCHEME
10 - 14
SERVICE INFORMATION
GENERAL


Crankcases should be separated to repair crankshaft, tie rod, balance shaft, gearbox and
gear shift pedal
Remove the following parts before crankcase separation:
 Engine removal
Chapter 5
 Cylinder head removal
Chapter 6
 Cylinder / Piston
Chapter 7
 Clutch / Gear shift pedal
Chapter 8
 Oil pump
Chapter 4
 Alternator
Chapter 9
SPECIFICATIONS
ELEMENT
ITEM
Crankshaft
SPECIFICATION
NC250
Stroke
SERVICE
LIMIT
-
53,6
-
106,45
-
Tip diameter at the bearings
Ø 14
-
Maximum distance between counterweights
58,85
59
Lateral clearance at the connecting rod
0,20
0,25
Radial clearance at the connecting rod
0,03
0,05
GY-NC250
-
96
-
18,00
-
16,016 – 16,034
16,06
18,00
-
30x38x18
-
Ø 30 x57,8
30,05
“GY-NC250” mark
facing the flywheel
-
O.D. of counterweights
Crankshaft
Type
Holes distance
Head width
Connecting
rod
I.D. piston pin’s hole
Base width
Bearing (rollers)
Connecting rod pin
Connecting rod installing position
on the crankshaft
10 - 1
Pin position on the connecting rod
Connecting rod position on the crankshaft
Maximum warpage
Crankshaft
bearings
Plug facing the right
side
“NC250” mark facing
the flywheel side
0,05
Left
QSTM 6207
Right
TM 6207RS
Left
0,08
-
NSK 6004CM
-
NSK 6004DDUCM
-
SPECIFICATION
SERVICE
LIMIT
M5 (Z26)
20,000 – 20,021
20,08
M6 (Z27)
23,000 – 23,021
23,07
C1 (Z36)
23,000 – 23,021
23,07
C2 (Z32)
25,020 – 25,041
25,09
C3 (Z29)
25,000 – 25,021
25,07
C4 (Z26)
22,000 – 22,021
22,07
O.D.
22,959 – 22,980
22,92
I.D.
18,000 – 18,018
18,08
O.D.
22,959 – 22,980
22,90
I.D.
22,000 – 22,021
22,10
O.D.
24,979 – 25,000
24,90
O.D.
Height
24,959 – 24,980
9,05
24,90
-
O.D. at right side (Ø20mm)
20,000
19,990
O.D. at left side (Ø7)
17,000
16,990
25x20x26
-
19,995
19,980
25,000
24,970
22,000
-
17,000
-
Starting wheel
14,966 – 14,984
14,91
C1
17,966 – 17,984
17,91
C2, C4
21,959 – 21,980
21,91
Balancer shaft
bearings
Right
PRIMARY TRANSMISSION
ELEMENT
ITEM
I.D. of the
gears
M6 (spindled)
C1 (18x23x9,6)
Gear
bushings
Gearbox
(Transmission)
C2 (22x25x10)
C3 (22x25x9)
splined
Primary
shaft M1
(Z12)
Secondary
shaft O.D.
Outer guiding bushing of the
clutch at the primary shaft
I.D. guiding bushing of the clutch
at the shaft
O.D. guiding bushing of the
clutch at the sprocket
O.D. at the left side (Ø22)
O.D. at the right side (Ø17)
10 - 2
M6
0,020 – 0,062
0,10
C1
0,020 – 0,062
0,10
C2
0,020 – 0,062
0,10
C3
0,020 – 0,062
0,10
Gear-shaft
M5, C4
0,020 – 0,062
0,15
Shaft-tobushing
clearance
C1
0,016 – 0,052
0,15
C2
0,020 – 0,062
0,10
63/22/P5/16
-
6203/P63
-
TM6304/P5
-
6203/P63
-
Shifting shaft
61902Z
-
Shifting drum
61805
-
O.D. at the right crankcase bearing
11,975 – 11,990
11,90
O.D. at the right crankcase bearing
19,959 – 19,980
19,90
6,25
6,30
ZJR
-
ZJL
ZJC
6,0
5,80
4,90 – 5,00
4,50
I.D. fork (ZJC) hole
Ø 12,000 – 12,021
0,10
I.D. fork (ZJR/ZJL) hole
Ø 14,000 – 14,028
0,10
O.D. fork (ZJC) shaft
12,966 – 12,984
(L=109)
12,90
O.D. fork (ZJR/ZJL) shaft
13,966 – 13,984
(L=130)
13,90
15x172
-
Ø25
w/2 spirals
Selector plate spring
Ø8,8x23x7,2
w/13 spirals
Shifting shaft thrust washer
Ø15,3x30x3,5
-
1,9x21
-
Fillister facing the
bearing
-
6905Z
-
11,50 mm
-
Gear
Secondary shaft at the left crankcase
Primary shaft at the left crankcase
Bearings
Shifting drum
Primary shaft at the right crankcase
Secondary shaft at the right crankcase
Grooves width
Forks
identification
Forks
Forks shaft
Forks
Right
Left
Centre
Fork’s pin diameter
Fork-to-gear contact zone
thickness
O.D. shifting shaft
Returning spring
Shifting shaft
(selector shaft)
Thrust washer fillister
Thrust washer installing position
Shifting shaft bearings
O.D. at the splined
10 - 3
TROUBLESHOOTING
Excessive noise:
 Crankshaft:
 Tie rod bearing with wear;
 Bent tie rod;
 Crankshaft bearings with wear.
 Balance shaft;
 Wrongly assembled;
 Damaged balance shaft gears.
Abnormal vibration
- Wrong balance shaft alignment.
Remove the following nuts;
CRANKCASE SEPARATION
Remove the following items:




Remove
the
cylinder
head
cover(Chapter 6);
Remove the cylinder head (chapter
6);
Remove the cylinder (chapter 6);
Remove the piston (chapter 7).
Take the two washers and nuts out from the
driving gears;
Place the engine on a support to ease all the
procedures.
Remove the right crankcase: (chapter 4)
 Remove
the
clutch
assembly;
(chapter 8);
 Remove the oil pump gears; (chapter
4);
 Remove the overrunning clutch;
(chapter 12);
 Remove the gearshift mechanism;
(chapter 8).
Note: Untighten bolt in cross pattern in 2 /
3 steps.
Remove the hub dumb chain sprocket;
Remove the left crankcase: (chapter 4)
 Remove the magnetic flywheel;
 Remove the driving/driven gear;
10 - 4
Pull out the two gears;
Remove the two tabulate keys;
Check the driven gear condition;
Take the crankshaft tube out from the driven
gear;
After all the parts removal, place the engine
over a wood support on the lower position
and separate right crankcase from left
crankcase by hitting with a rubber hammer on
the end of primary gear and crankshaft.
Check the driving gear condition;
! DANGER !
Do not force with a lever to separate left from
right crankcase. Use only a rubber or nylon
hammer.
CRANKSHAFT AND BALANCE
SHAFT REMOVAL
Removal
Remove gearbox (primary and secondary
shaft);
Remove fork shaft and gear drum;
Remove gear shift shafts.
10 - 5
Remove crankshaft and balance shaft using a
rubber hammer.
Note: Crankshaft and balance shaft must
be removed from left crankcase as an
assembly simultaneously.
Measure radial clearance on the of tie rod
bigger end.
BALANCE SHAFT GEAR INSPECTION
Check if the balance shaft is worn or
damaged. Replace it if necessary;
! DANGER !
Be careful not to damage crankcase surface.
CRANKSHAFT INSPECTION
Place crankshaft on a rotating support or
over V blocs and measure run out using a
gauge.
CRANKCASE BEARINGS
REPLACEMENT
Remove right crankcase bearings with
appropriate tools.
Measure clearance on the of tie rod bigger
end using a clearance gauge.
10 - 6
BEARINGS REMOVAL
With a proper tool and a rubber hammer take
the bearings out;
Rotate inner bearing surface with your finger;
Bearings should rotate smoothly and
noiseless;
Note: Use proper tools when doing this
operation to avoid damage the bearings
or the crankcase.
When assembling the bearings, certify
yourself that the bearings are placed on the
same position as the old bearings were.
Note: Assemble left crankcase bearings
with sealing cover faced to outer side.
Note: replace the bearings if they are
damage and place new ones.
Lubricate the bearing before the crankcases
assembly;
GEARBOX DISASSEMBLY
ENGINE REMOVAL – Chapter 5
Remove left and right crankcases.
COUNTERSHAFT DISASSEMBLY
10 - 7
Remove the gear and the washer;
Gear M-3,4
Gear C1
Gear M-1
Remove the washers and the gears through
the right;
Gear C2
Gear M-2
Gear M-6
Gear M-5
GEARBOX INSTALATION
Gear C6
Verify the bearings condition;
Gear C3
Gear C4
Gear C5
MAIN SHAFT DISASSEMBLY
Lubricate the bearings and the gearbox
before assembling;
10 - 8
Insert both shafts at the same time;
After the gearbox assembly, lubricate the
countershafts forks;
Place the fork in its place;
Lubricate the other fork of the countershaft;
Place the fork in its place;
Repeat the same procedures and place the
other fork on the main shaft;
10 - 9
Check the gearshift drum condition;
Lubricate and put the gearshift drum in its
place;
Place the pins of the forks in the gearshift
drum;
Lubricate before
assembly;
the
two
guide
pins
Place the two guide pins;
10 - 10
Place the main shaft and countershaft;
Place the oil filters;
Apply silicone on the right crankcase;
Assemble the two crankcases. Refer to right
crankcase assembly (4 - 13) and left
crankcase assembly; (4 - 17)
Before the assembly check the oil jet
condition;
BALANCE SHAFT/CRANKSHAFT
ASSEMBLY
! WARNING !
Make sure that the marc in the right side of
crankshaft is aligned with the line on the side
of balance shaft.
Note:
 If there are small irregularities on
contact surfaces, take them out with a
grind;
 After cleaning, lubricate crankshaft
bearings, balance shaft and tie rod
bigger end with clean engine oil.
Introduce a dowel pin on the balance shaft
gear hole to align both gears.
Align the crankshaft gear marc with the
balance shaft gear marc.
Clean with compressed air;
CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY
Assemble primary shaft and secondary shaft
on the left crankcase all together and
simultaneously;
Place gearbox;
Assemble gearbox forks on the right position;
Assemble drum;
Place fork dowel pin on the drum channels
and introduce the shaft on the forks hole;
Assemble gear shift pedal;
Lubricate all moving parts;
Check right functioning of gearbox;
Note: Clean crankcase adjustment
surfaces before assembly and check if
there is no marcs, burrs or other damage.
If necessary, rectify contact surface of
crankcases with a water grind in a
rectified block and wash and clean again
before assembly.
10 - 11
Assemble simultaneously crankshaft and
balance shaft on the left crankcase in a way
that the line marc on the right half of
crankshaft is aligned with the line on the side
of balance shaft.
Certify yourself that the silicone it’s not
covering the oil passing holes;
Lubricate all the components before the
assembly;
Assemble crankshaft and balance shaft
correctly aligned and driven;
Assemble right crankcase moving leftwards,
taking care to align dowel pins and the shafts,
adjusting them with a rubber hammer.
Apply silicone to the crankcase for further
assembly;
10 - 12
After assembly, check the crankshaft rotation,
primary and secondary shafts, as well gear
shift lever functioning.
Assemble the timing chain gear on the
crankshaft, followed by the primary gear,
conic washer and M18x1 nut, and tight with a
24mm key.
! WARNING !
Do not force assembly of both crankcases, if
excessive force is needed, something is
wrong. Remove right crankcase and check if
there are misaligned/assembled parts.
Assemble and tight flange bolt M6x35 on
the right crankcase.
Torque value: 12 N.m (1,2 Kgf.m)
Assemble and tight crankcase bolts in a
cross pattern in 2/3 steps, taking care its right
position, according to different sizes.
Torque value: 12 N.m (1,2 Kgf.m)
Adjust crankcase gasket position before tight
bolts.
Assemble the following:
 Crankshaft primary gear (page 8-8);
 Cam and drum fixation (page 8-5);
 Oil pump (page 4-4);
 Clutch (page 8-10);
 Right crankcase cover;
 Start clutch and magnetic wheel;
 Alternator (estator) (page 9-4);
 Left crankcase cover;
 Oil passing tubes;
 Start motor.
Assemble the following:
 Piston (page 7-5);
 Cylinder (page7-6);
 Cylinder head (page 6-15).
Assemble engine on the frame (page 5-5).
Introduce recommend oil quantity through the
right intake valve hole.
RECOMMENDED QUANTITY: 1,7 l
OIL TYPE SAE 20W-50
Carry on with the assembly of the remaining
components by the opposite order of
disassembly.
Place the engine in a jig.
10 - 13
GEARBOX ASSEMBLY SCHEME - 2014
COUNTERSHAFT - 2012
10 - 14
Legend:
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
(31)
32
Main shaft, transmission
Countershaft transmission
Countershaft transmission (2014)
Transmission main shaft (Z12)
Gear M-5 (Z24)
Washer (25,1×1,0×30)
Circlip
Gear M-3//4 (Z18/Z20)
Washer (20,1×1,0×25)
Gear M-6 (Z25)
Bearing (K20x24x10)
Gear M-2 (Z15)
Washer (17,1×1,0×26)
Bolt (M10×1,25)
Washer (10,2×4×30)
Drive sprocket 520-Z13
Bush
O-ring (21×2)
Transmission countershaft
Transmission countershaft (2014)
Gear C-2 (Z27)
Gear C-2 (Z27) 2014
Gear C-6 (Z22)
Gear C-6 (Z22) 2014
Gear C-3 (Z24)
Gear C-3 (Z24) 2014
Gear C-4 (Z20)
Gear C-4 (20Z) 2014
Check ring
Check ring 23mm (2014)
Gear C-5 (Z23)
Gear C-5 (Z23) 2014
Washer (19×1×26)
Gear C-1 (Z31)
Gear C-1 (Z31) 2014
Main shaft assembly (2013)
Main shaft assembly (2014)
Washer
Washer (23,2x25,3x29,6x2,0) (2014)
Washer
Washer (22,1×1,0×28)
Bearing (2014)
Bearing (23X26X9,6)
Washer
10 - 15
LEFT CRANKCASE SCHEME
Legend:
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
Bolt (M6x65)
Bolt (M6x45)
Screw (M6x20)
Gearshift switch comp AJP
Oil seal (32x47x6)
Cover, oil filter screen
O-ring (17,5x1,8)
Strainer, oil filter
Oil seal (15x25x5)
Oil drain plug
Washer (14,5x1,5x20)
Left crankcase block
Circlip 28
Bearing (61902/2Z)
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
Bearing (61805)
Bearing (63/22/P5/16)
Bearing (6003/P53)
Bearing (6207 JR2LUC3)
Bearing (CSB004 JR2CS18SPX9)
Rocker arm, release lever, clutch
Oil seal (14x22x5)
Washer (10,5x2x20)
Cylinder stud bolt A
Nut (M10x1,25)
Clutch separating rod
Oil nozzle
Clutch lever retainer
Engine spacer (5,2mm)
10 - 16
RIGHT CRANKCASE SCHEME
Legend:
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
Nut M10x1,25
Cylinder stud bolt A
Washer (10,5x2x20)
Bearing (61805)
Bearing (6203/P63)
Bearing (6304JR2C3SPX1)
Bearing (6207JR2C3SPX1)
Bearing (CSB004
JR2LUACS18SPX9)
Right crankcase block
Strainer, oil filter
O-ring (17,5x1,8)
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
Cover, oil filter screen
Bolt, return spring fixing
Bearing (61902/2Z)
Oil filter
O-ring (30x2,6)
Cap, oil filter
Bolt (M5x22)
Screw (M5x16)
19
20
Bush (5,2mm)
Pin (13x14)
10 - 17
Chapter 11 – START MOTOR
SERVICE INFORMATION
11 - 1
STARTING GEAR CLUTCH
ASSEMBLY
11 - 12
TROUBLESHOOTING
11 - 3
TWIN GEAR SET REMOVAL
11 - 13
START MOTOR REMOVAL
11 - 3
START MOTOR INSTALLATION
11 - 9
STARTING GEAR REMOVAL
11 - 9
REDUCTION GEAR
REMOVAL
TWIN GEAR AND
REDUCTION GEAR
ASSEMBLY
STARTER RELAY
11 - 14
11 - 14
11 - 14
SERVICE INFORMATION
GENERAL




Starter motor can be removed with the engine installed in the frame;
When inspecting starter system, follow the procedures described at the troubleshooting
section;
A weak battery could not feed the starter engine and provide the right ignition current too;
If the current was maintained through the starter motor, with the thermal engine stopped,
the starter motor can be damaged ;
SPECIFICATIONS
ELEMENT
ITEM
SPECIFICATION
Shaft number of teeth
Z9 (Ø 12mm)
Induced coil’s resistance
1,6 Ω
Brushes
Start motor
(starter)
Brushes length
Collector diameter
Collector bars
Motor housing screws
O-ring/flange
Starter’s relay
2
9,0 / 11,0mm
Limit: 6,0mm
28,3mm
Limit: 27,3mm
6 Pairs
M5x107 (PH)
25x3
12 V 70 A
Relay-to-battery cable
250mm
Relay-to-starter cable
530mm
Relay resistance
5Ω
Primary starting gear
Z58
11 - 1
Primary starting gear shaft
10x35x5
Secondary starting gear
Z19
Secondary starting gear’s washers
10x20x1
Starting gear track diameter
45,80mm
Limit: 45,5mm
Starting clutch
Unidirectional bearing w/ 18 rollers
TORQUE VALUES
DIMENSIONS
(mm)
TORQUE
N.m (kgf.m)
NOTE
8
M6x20
12 (1,2)
-
2
M10x40
39 (4,0)
-
1
M8x20
27 (2,7)
-
1
M8
25 (2,5)
-
1
M8x25
22 (2,2)
-
3
M6x20
12 (1,2)
-
1
M8X50
32 (3,3)
-
2
M8x30
32 (3,3)
-
1
M10x50
39 (4,0)
-
Front/top engine fixing bolt
1
M10x120
39 (4,0)
-
Front/bottom fixing bolt
1
M10x110
39 (4,0)
-
2
M8x20
25 (2,5)
-
3
M6
10 (1,0)
-
2
M6
10 (1,0)
-
4
M6x16
12 (1,2)
-
10
M6
10 (1,0)
-
M10x35/40
42 (4,3)
-
M6x25/35
12 (1,2)
-
M8X50 flange
32 (3,3)
-
M8x30 flange
32 (3,3)
-
M8x50 flange
32 (3,3)
-
ITEM
QTY
Frame / Exhaust:
Frame beams fixing bolts (top)
Frame beams fixing bolts (bottom)
Exhaust muffler fixing screw
Exhaust pipe flange nut
Flange screw
Engine skid plate screws
Frame reinforcement screw (at the under frame)
Frame reinforcement screw (at the frame
beams)
Parafusos fixação do suporte do motor no
quadro
Battery bracket screws
Regulator/rectifier screws
Plastic front covers screw
Side cover screws
Engine install/removal
Primary foot pegs brackets screws
2
Secondary foot pegs brackets
2
Frame reinforcement bolt
1
Frame reinforcement bolt (at the frame beams)
2
1
11 - 2
Maintenance:
Braking lever adjusting bolt
1
M6
6 (0,6)
-
Clutch lever pivot bolt
1
M6
-
-
Clutch lever support bolt
1
M6
-
-
Clutch cable adjusting nut (at the engine)
2
M8
-
-
Light switch screw
1
Self-tightening
-
-
Throttle grip screw
2
PHxM5x20
8 (0,8)
-
Throttle cable adjuster
2
M6
8 (0,8)
-
Bike side stand pivot nut
1
M12
-
-
Front spokes head
36
3,5/3,8
3.8 (0,38)
-
Rear spokes head
36
4/3,8
5 (0,5)
-
Starter fixing bolts
2
M6x25
12 (1,2)
-
Primary starting gear fixing screw
1
M6x35
12 (1,2)
-
Secondary starting gear fixing screw
1
M6x30
12 (1,2)
-
Starting clutch/crankshaft gear nut
1
M18x1
-
-
Starter cable nut
1
-
-
Starter
TROUBLESHOOTING
Start motor does not work:










Check if the fuse (20A) is blown;
Certify yourself that the battery is
completed charged (>12.8 V) and in
good conditions;
Inappropriate contact between the
terminal or connectors;
Inappropriate start motor cable
contact;
Open circuit on the start motor cable;
Start motor damaged;
Defective ignition switch;
Defective start motor switch/button;
Open circuit on the wiring harness;
Defective starter relay;
Start motor spins slowly:
 Discharged or weak battery;
 Inappropriate battery cable contact;
 Brushes or induced coil damaged.
-
Start motor spins, but the thermal engine
does not work:
 Damaged start clutch;
Starter relay makes noise (click), but the
thermal engine does not work:
 The crankshaft does not spin due
thermal engine problems;
 Damaged or defective start gearing;
START MOTOR REMOVAL
! WARNING !
Before initiate the service operations, turn off
the ignition switch. The motor can be
actuated and cause serious injuries;
Note the washer positions or others parts
during the removal process.
Remove the rubber protection, the terminal
nut and the start motor cable;
Remove the two M6x28 flange bolts (1) from
the start motor;
11 - 3
Remove the bolts to start the electric starter
disassembly;
Remove the electric starter from the left
crankcase;
Remove left cover;
DISASSEMBLY
Note: If there is no reference marks at the
covers and housing motor, mark it to
proceed to a later and properly assembly;
Remove the
condition;
O-rings
and
check
their
Remove the two bolts with respective
washers from the right motor cover;
Remove the covers and the sealing ring of
the electric starter;
Remove brushes plate from magnetic
housing;
Remove nuts, fiber washers and the sealing
from the terminal bolt (1);
11 - 4
(1)
Remove the inner insulator and the terminal
bolt from the armature/positive brush;
Measure brushes length;
Wash with properly solvent and clean all
motor parts before proceed to the inspection
and assembly.
Reference values:
 Standard: 9,0/11,0 mm
 Service limit: 6,0 mm
Remove the induced, pulling it out by the left
end (the longest);
Loose the springs from the brushes holder
plate. Be careful to not damage the
Commuter of the induced;
INSPECTION
Check the bearing and oil sealer conditions
(damage or wear);
11 - 5
Check for discoloring or wear on the induced
Commuter bars (cooper collector).
Note: Pair of discolored bars indicates shortcircuit between coils and ground wire. In that
case, the start motor must be replaced
Measure the outer diameter of brushes
Commuter in the induced;
After removing the holder plate;
Verify if there is continuity between the
isolated brush and the metal plate;
Reference Value: 28,3 mm
Note: Don’t use sandpaper on the
commuter. Commuter/collector of induced
brushes cannot be rectified. If there is too
much wear, starter motor must be
replaced.
Verify if
contact;
exist
continuity between
There must be no continuity between the
positive terminal and the metal plate;
each
Verify that there is no continuity between
commuter bars and induced;
If exist, replace the starter motor;
11 - 6
ASSEMBLY
Perform the electric starter assembly by the
Keep the springs loose and the two brushes
inside the housings to allow the induced
installation;
Note: When installing induced at motor
housing, hold it firmly in order to avoid
housing magnet to magnetize it. Keep the
brushes inside their housing on the plate
to avoid damage during induced
assembly.
Insert the induced shaft in the magnetic
housing, holding firmly by the longer/grooved
extremity to avoid induced coil damage and
magnets to be magnetized;
Fit the plastic insulation inside magnetic
housing side by side start motor brushes;
Fit the inner insulator in the housing terminal
bolt and insert it in the magnetic housing side
hole;
Adjust the positions of the brushes armature,
before tighten definitively the terminal bolt;
Insert the two washers;
TORQUE: 8Nm (0,8 Kgf.m)
Apply grease at the bearing and left cover
sealing;
Install the plate with the brushes on the
induced Commuter on the right position,
aligning the plate tooth with the notch of the
motor housing;
11 - 7
Be careful to not damage the commuter bars
during spring placement;
Insert the induced shaft and press to the side
to fit the induced shaft correctly;
Insert the right cover by assembling the two
bolts;
Certify that the washers are in their position;
Tighten the bolts on the start motor cover with
specified torque value;
TORQUE VALUE: 8 Nm (0,8 kgf.m)
Apply grease at the right cover sealing and
sintered bushing on top of the right motor
cover;
11 - 8
Install, if exists, the washer on the induced
shaft right end, and the sealing ring in the
housing;
Tighten the start motor cable terminal and
adjust the rubber protection over the terminal.
Note: Certify yourself that the wire
brushes do not contact with ground wire
and all parts are properly installed before
close start motor.
Verify with hand if start motor shaft rotates in
both senses. It is expected some locking.
Note: Never hit the groovedd tip of
induced shaft. This could damage the
right cover of the start motor.
Measure the resistance value of the induction
coils;
TORQUE: 40-60 Nm (3,9 – 5,9 kgf.m)
Turn on the ignition key and the stop switch
button (turned to the left) and press the start
button in order to test the start motor working.
STARTING GEAR REMOVAL
REMOVE THE RIGHT CRANKCASE (Page 4-6)
STANDARD: 1,6 Ω
START MOTOR INSTALLATION






Remove the seat
Remove the side parts
Remove exhaust and sub frame
Air filter box
Release the gas tube
Remove rear brake level
Proceed with installation, doing the same
operations of the removal in reverse order.
For starting gear removal it’s not necessary to
remove the clutch out case;
Install the start motor in the right crankcase
hole;
It is necessary a way to block the clutch out
case and the primary drive gear to
disassemble the nut (1) M18x1;
11 - 9
(1)
First straight the washer for nut removal;
Remove the nut, washer and the primary
drive gear;
Tool used on the nut (1) removal;
Pull the starting clutch out;
Note: Use a tool to fix the two gears for
nut removal;
Be careful to not damage the teeth of the
gears.
Block the two gears in order to remove the
nut;
11 - 10
INSPECTION
Measure all the required diameters and
check if the values are according to
specifications.
Clean and look for any damage on the
following components:
Measure the inner diameter;
Measure the inner diameter;
Measure the outer diameter;
11 - 11
Remove the circlip;
Check the components condition;
Measure the diameter and verify if it is
according to specifications;
STARTING GEAR CLUTCH
ASSEMBLY
Put the washer in its place;
Note: These two nuts are similar but one
is thicker than the other;
The nut (1) is for clutch out case, the nut
(2) is for starting gear;
11 - 12
TWIN GEAR SET REMOVAL
Note: For twin gear set and reduction
gear removal it’s necessary to remove the
clutch out case - Page 8 – 5.
(1)
Remove the bolt that fixes the twin gear;
(2)
! ATTENTION !
When assembling, do not place the nut (1) in
the place of nut (2) and vice-versa;
During the assembly, block the two gears
from the bottom to fasten the nut;
(1)
(2)
Place the washer as it was before being
removed;
11 - 13
REDUCTION GEAR REMOVAL
Before the twin gear installation put glue on
the bolt;
Remove the circlip from the reduction gear;
Tight the bolt M6x35 with the specified
torque;
Check the components condition;
TWIN GEAR AND REDUCTION
GEAR ASSEMBLY
Torque: 12 N.m (1,2 kgf.m)
STARTER RELAY
Inspection
Remove the front side covers;
Put the transmission on neutral position;
Turn on the ignition key (ON) and stop button
(switch) in “RUN” position;
11 - 14
Current line:
Connect the probe of the test device at the
ground wire (on frame) and the green
terminal of the starter relay connector;
Turn on the ignition key, actuate the start
motor button and simultaneously check for
continuity.
Removal/Installation
Actuat the start motor button (1);
! ATTENTION !
Be careful to create any short circuit;
Disconnect the ground wire from the
negative battery pole, to work safely.
Turn off the ignition key;
Loosen the negative cable from the battery;
Loosen the 2P connector of the starter relay,
behind ECU;
Remove the fixing bolt of the starter relay
holder;
Divert the rubber protectors, remove the nuts
and loosen the terminal cables out from the
starter relay;
The relay is in good conditions if emits low
noise;
Note: The relay coil could work well
(emits “clicks”), but do not close the inner
circuit, do not allowing the connection
between battery cable and start motor
cable. In this case, the relay is defective
and must be replaced.
Ground wire line
Loosen the 2P connector of the starter relay;
Check for continuity between black terminal
(ground line) and the battery negative wire or
frame ground;
Note: Never allow that the terminal cable
touch in the frame. This could make a violent
short circuit because that cable has always
current, without any fuse protection and can
only be deactivated if terminals were
removed from battery negative pole.
Remove the starter relay from the rubber
housing on the metallic support;
Install the new starter relay (if the replace is
needed);
Install the parts by the reverse order of the
removal.
START MOTOR SCHEME
Please refer to PR5 parts list for Start Motor
Scheme.
11 - 15
Chapter 12 – LIQUID COOLING
SERVICE INFORMATION
12 – 1
WATER PUMP REMOVAL
12 – 6
RADIATORS REMOVAL
12 – 3
WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY
12 – 9
RADIATORS ASSEMBLY
12 – 6
SERVICE INFORMATION
AJP PR5 is equipped with two radiators, placed on the front of the motorcycle.
ELEMENT
ENGINE
COOLING
ITEM
SPECIFICATION
Radiators
Two
Right radiator fan
PANASONIC Ø 135 mm (with diode)
Temperature gauge
At the right radiator (M16x1.5)
Threshold fan temperature
100oC
Cooling liquid
AGIP/ENI PERMANENT SPEZIAL - 40ºC
Circuit volume
1,0 Litre
ITEM
QTY
DIMENSION(mm)
TORQUE
NOTE
Radiator plug
1
-
By hand
-
Drain screw
1
M6x20
9 (0,9)
w/washer
Water pump screws
3
M6x35
12 (1,2)
-
Water pump turbine
1
-
15 (1,5)
-
Radiator fixing screws
4
M6
10 (1,0)
-
Cooling fan screws
2
M6x16
10 (1,0)
-
Cooling fan sensor
1
M16x1,5
20 (2,0)
w/o-ring
Temperature sensor (between the 2 radiators)
1
M12x1.25
20 (2,0)
(1)
Pipe clamp
8
-
-
-
Liquid cooling
12 - 1
TROUBLESHOOTING
Engine is overheated:







Cut of the engine when is overheated;
Check the coolant level after the engine
cooling;
Verify if the coolant system is leak
proofed;
Verify the tubes and cap condition;
Search for any damage on the radiators;
Check the blower fan condition;
Check the fins condition and verify if
they are obstructed.
Note: always perform coolant level control
with a cold engine.
! WARNING !
To check coolant level, never perform it with
the engine in hot temperatures. Liquid in
radiator is under 1.1 bar of pressure and if the
cap is opened, liquid may spill off and cause
injuries and burns; If you continue to run the
engine in these conditions it may cause
serious damages in the engine.
Put the motorcycle in a horizontal position and
verify the coolant level;
Verify if the level is 5mm underneath the top, if
so, it is at the right level;
REFRIGERANT LIQUID DRAINING
Remove the cap to help draining the liquid;
! WARNING !
Do not use tap water to fill the coolant system.
Check frequently coolant level of engine liquid
cooling system.
Note: keep the fins cleaned to guarantee the
radiators efficiency.
! WARNING !
- Do not remove the radiators cap while the
engine is hot;
The hot liquid is under high pressure and it
may cause severe burns;
- Use gloves and adequate protective gear;
- In case of contact with eyes, rinse
immediately with running water:
If irritation occurs see a doctor;
- Repeated contact with skin should be
avoided;
It is recommended to wash your hands with
running water and soap after handling the
liquid;
- The refrigerant fluid may harm the
environment ;
Never dispose of the liquid by dropping it on
the ground or sewage;
- Collect all the residual fluid in an
appropriate container and send it for
recycling according to environment law.
To drain the liquid unbolt the bolt (1) – right
crankcase;
Use a specific recipient to drain the liquid to
post recycling;
(1)
After draining the liquid, tight the drain bolt with
specific torque;
Torque: 10 N.m (1 kgf.m)
12 - 2
Drain the new liquid through the left radiator;
If some of the liquid drops out and entries in
contact with other parts of the motorcycle is
recommended to clean immediately;
Take the protections out on both radiators;
Fill the liquid until it reaches the top level;
Verify that there is no air in the cooling system;
Start the engine and wait 2 or 3 minutes, if the
level is underneath the top, add more liquid.
RADIATORS REMOVAL
Remove the side parts;
Remove the tubes;
Remove the two bolts that fix the radiators to
the frame;
Remove all the tubes that are connected to the
radiators;
12 - 3
Verify the blower fan connector;
Take the left radiator out;
Remove the blower fan connector;
Check the terminals and verify if they are
damaged;
On the right radiator remove either the two bolts
that fix the radiator to the frame;
12 - 4
CAP INSPECTION
Apply the specific pressure to verify the
radiators condition;
Check the washer condition (1);
-Verify the valve spring (2) and sealing
condition (3);
Maximum radiators pressure: 180kPa
(1,8 kg/cm2; 25,6Psi)
Note: During the tests, do not exceed the
maximum pressure.
Remove the tubes in the upper side of the
radiators with the temperature sensor;
If you verify any damage on the cap, is
recommended to replace for a new cap;
Verify the cap pressure valve condition
Apply the specific pressure;
Check its condition;
Opening pressure: 110kPa (1,1 kg/cm2,
15,6 psi)
If the pressure goes down or if it doesn’t
maintain for a minimal of ten seconds you
must replace the cap;
12 - 5
Verify if the tubes are in good condition;
Connect the blower fan connector of the right
radiator;
Certify yourself that the tube is not too close to
the exhaust pipe;
RADIATORS ASSEMBLY
The radiators assembly should be done by
Place all the tubes in their position;
Apply grease to the rubber and then tight the
two bolts that fix the radiators to the frame in
both sides;
WATER PUMP REMOVAL
After the engine oil and refrigerant liquid
removal, you can do the following operations ;
Remove the right crankcase cover disks;
Remove the clutch disks;
Remove the right crankcase cover;
1
12 - 6
Remove the following tube;
Verify if the gasket is in good condition;
Remove the four bolts and take the water pump
cover out;
Remove the nut and pull out the water pump;
Check the water pump cover condition;
Check for any damage in the water pump;
12 - 7
On the other side of the right crankcase cover
remove the water pump shaft by pressing
through the outer side of the crankcase cover;
Check for any damage on the sealing rings;
Check the bearing condition;
Take the sealants out and check for any
damage on the housing;
Check the water pump shaft condition;
If it is damaged you must replace for a new
water pump shaft assembly;
12 - 8
Insert the clutch disks;
Insert the right crankcase cover disks;
Right crankcase cover assembly;
COOLING SYSTEM SCHEME
Please refer to PR5 parts list for Cooling
System Scheme.
WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY
Rotate until it seats in the right position and
tight the nut of the water pump;
Tight the four bolts of the water pump cover;
12 - 9

PR5servicebook-1 - AJP Motorcycles America

Transcription

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