January 2015 - Bradford County Extension Office

Master Gardener Vision “to be the most trusted resource for horticultural education in Florida”
2266 N. Temple Ave., Starke, 904.966.6299 Email: [email protected] January, 2015
Optimism for the New Year
For me, January is a month of optimism. Besides ushering in a brand new year, January is a time for assessment and goal setting. It’s symbolic of a new start and new resolutions to replace bad habits. But while
we are making those resolutions, don’t forget to include your garden. And to insure success, keep it simple! Honestly, how many resolutions do you usually keep? One resolution that you could keep is to put a
plant in the Bradford County Fair Horticulture Exhibit. See below for more details. And if you need inspiration about setting new goals, read what to plant and what to do in the garden on pages 2, 3 and 4. Wendy's article about the cabbage looper on page 5 is timely, as many of us have cruciferous vegetables like
cabbage, greens and broccoli in our winter gardens.
If you are like me, your first inclination after a freeze is to cut all that dead vegetation down. Read the article “Is There Life in the Garden After a Freeze?” on pages 6 and 7 to find out why that may not be the best
idea. And lastly, we have a new “crop” of Bradford County Master Gardeners! To read more about them,
and their graduation ceremony, see page 8.
Laurie
So, here's to optimism! It will bring you (and your garden) joy!
Showing Your Plants at the Bradford County Fair
There is plenty of time to get your plants ready to show at the fair! The Bradford County Fair will be held from March 10th through March 15th this year.
We will be accepting plants on Monday, March 9th, from 8:30 am to 6 pm, at
Building # 2 of the Fairgrounds. Do you have any houseplants or outdoor potted plants that you would like to show off? Maybe you like to grow agricultural plants such as greens, onions, lettuce or strawberries. You can also enter
your own honey or cane syrup, or chicken, quail or duck eggs. Sharing with
the public what you raise and grow is fun and promotes horticultural activities
in our county. There are ribbons and cash prizes for all entries and it is fun to
participate and see what everyone else is growing. For more information on
showing your plants, honey, syrup or eggs at the fair, call Laurie at the Bradford County Extension office at 904-966-6299, or go to our website at
http://bradford.ifas.ufl.edu/ and click on “Show and Fair Information” under
the Agriculture heading.
Laurie
The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) is an Equal Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educational
information, and other services only to individuals and institutions that function without discrimination with respect to race, creed,
color, religion, age, disability, sex, sexual orientation, marital status, national origin, political opinions, or affiliations. USDA, UF/IFAS
Extension, FAMU and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating.
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What to Plant in January
January is often one of the coldest months of our short winter, so play it safe
by choosing cold tolerant plants. Annuals that can be planted now include dianthus, flowering cabbage and kale, lobelia, petunias, pansies and snapdragon.
Now is a good time to plant Bulbs like amaryllis, Aztec lily, walking iris and
Zephyr lily. Provide a layer of mulch for protection from cold temperatures.
Vegetables to plant now include beets, cabbage, car r ots, Chinese cabbage,
leeks, mustard, English peas, potatoes, radish and turnips.
English Peas
What to Do in January
January is a good time to prune grapes. For muscadines, prune all branches that are less than 3/16” in diameter, leaving 2 to 3 buds per spur. Remove most of the spurs located at
the top of the trunk to prevent crowding and bushiness. Be ready to Cold
Protect tender plants to minimize damage. For Citrus, har vest r ipe
fruit before a freeze if temperatures are going to drop below 28° for at least
4 hours. If fruit are not ripe, leave them on the tree because citrus will not
ripen once picked. Water well 24 hours before a freeze. To control scale
Pests on citr us, shr ubs, camellias, and deciduous fr uit tr ees, apply hor Soft Brown Scale
ticultural oil while plants are dormant.
Source:http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/lawn_and_garden/calendar/
Wildlife Calendar January
Male cardinals begin territorial singing later in the month.
Nesting activity can be seen by ospreys, sandhill cranes, hawks, and owls.
Look for red-tailed hawks perched in trees along highways.
Gray foxes, bobcats, and raccoons begin breeding this month.
Deer reach the peak of the rutting season in north Florida.
Black bears in North Florida are inactive or in dens.
Source: http://www.wec.ufl.edu/extension/wildlife_info/happenings/
Northern Raccoon
Did You Know? Raccoons are one of our most successful urban animals and are frequently
observed around our homes. They are usually harmless, interesting neighbors and should be treated as part
of the natural community. Problems with raccoons often arise because we feed them. Raccoons eat just
about everything, so they are almost never in danger of starving. By feeding them, we condition them to
lose their "respect" for people and cause populations to become denser than the habitat can support. They
also begin to look at your home for shelter, and they are more likely to become ill and transmit diseases. If
welfare of the animals isn’t enough to stop you from feeding them, remember that it is illegal to feed bears,
foxes, raccoons, and sandhill cranes. As of June 2002, the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission will enforce this rule with penalties including 60 days in jail and fines up to $500.
Source: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/uw033
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What to Plant in February
Temperatures will more than likely drop to freezing this month, so new
Bedding Plant additions to the gar den must be able to withstand cold.
Some plants that can take a chill are ranunculus, viola and dusty miller.
For March flowers plant delphinium, digitalis (foxglove) and larkspur.
Many Bulbs can be planted now including calla lily, African lily and Voodoo lily. Provide adequate water to establish and protect from cold weather with mulch. February is the time to plant Potatoes. Buy healthy seed
pieces from a local nursery and plant 3” deep. Do not add lime to the potato
planting bed. Also try vegetables like broccoli, kohlrabi, onions, endive and
lettuce.
Kohlrabi
What to Do in February
If you received a poinsettia for the holidays, don’t plant it in the landscape until
the cold weather has passed. Mid-March is typically a safe time to plant. If you
didn’t prune your muscadines in January, do it this month. Cold damage to
Palms: Cold weather can damage palms, but pr oper car e may pr event loss
of the palm and encourage recovery. Roses should be pruned this month to remove damaged canes and improve the overall form. After pruning, fertilize and
apply a fresh layer of mulch. Blooming will begin eight to nine weeks after pruning. Fertilize young ornamental plants in mid-February with a specialty or 16-0Asiatic Hawksbeard
16 type fertilizer. Pull cool season Lawn Weeds like chickweed or Asiatic
hawksbeard if they are going to seed. If warm season weeds were a problem last year, be prepared to treat
with a pre-emergent before seeds germinate. If not done in January, Fertilize Citrus and other Fruit Trees
now. For most fruit use a citrus blend or a peach/pecan special. Source: http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/
lawn_and_garden/calendar/
Wildlife Calendar February
Early purple martin scouts will start to appear in Florida this month.
Ospreys will begin nesting in north Florida near the end of the month.
Swallow-tailed kites begin returning to Florida from South America.
Pocket Gophers begin their spring breeding season.
Source: http://www.wec.ufl.edu/extension/wildlife_info/happenings/
Did You Know? Martins arrive in Florida during late January and early
Purple Martin
February. Unlike most migrating birds that fly by night and feed by day, martins travel only in day-time.
They once relied on natural tree cavities for nest sites, but because of extensive loss of natural forest land,
they rely mostly on gourds and man-made martin apartments. Some people even call them gourd or house
martins. They also will nest in a wide range of other man-made structures such as commercial signs, street
lamps and traffic lights.
Source: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/uw092
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What to Plant in March
Spring is almost here so we can start planting warm season bedding plants like vinca,
verbena, asters, baby's breath, marigolds and pentas. Plant caladium, begonia, blood lily,
and gladiolus Bulbs in beds that have been amended with organic matter. Provide stakes
as needed to support growth. Some great perennials to try: coneflower, bulbine,
firespike, gauara and gerbera daisy. Vegetable gardening season kicks in to high gear this
month. This is a time to transition from cool to warm season crops. Try bean, tomato,
squash, and corn early in the month for late spring harvest. Protect from frost. As cool
season crops come to a close, consider allowing some of the cold crops , like broccoli, to
go to bloom. The flowers are great at attracting bees, which will help in the pollination of
your crops.
Blood lily
What to Do in March
Plant poinsettias left over from the holidays outside in the landscape or in large containers. Choose a sunny
area that is not exposed to artificial lights and add organic matter to enrich the soil.
Cut it back, leaving 4 to 6” of height and fertilize monthly from March to September. As it grows, pinch growing tips to generate more blooms; discontinue September 10 because buds are forming. Remove old blooms from camellia plants and the
ground below to reduce risk of camellia blight in next years flowers. The same is
true of azaleas once they stop blooming. Perennials like firespike and gingers can
be cut down to the ground. Other plants like salvia and hibiscus should be pruned
Camelia
when new buds start to break along the stem. Identify and conserve beneficial insects: Some insects should be encour aged in your yar d! Fertilize palms, azaleas, and camellias.
Choose a fertilizer that has at least 30% of its nitrogen as slow release.
Wildlife Calendar March
Summer tanagers and great-crested flycatchers arrive to breed.
Listen for newly-returned chuck-will's-widows calling after sunset.
Plant columbine, coral bean, and other wildflowers to attract hummingbirds.
Wild turkey and quail begin breeding in central and north Florida.
Snakes become active and move to favorite feeding areas.
Largemouth bass spawning throughout central and north Florida.
Spring turkey hunters take to the field.
Chickasaw plum and crabapples bloom in north Florida.
Male Summer
Tanager
Did You Know? The brightly plumaged male summer tanager is one of the more
spectacular breeding birds of North America. The tanager feeds mainly on fruit, except during breeding
season. Rather large and often sluggish, it usually sits still for long periods of time. Quite vocal, the summer is often detected by its distinctive call. The bill is generally bulky and long and ranges from gray to
pale horn in color.
Source: http://animals.nationalgeographic.com/animals/birding/summer-tanager/
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What's Buggin’ You
By: Wendy Helmey-Hartman
The cabbage looper,(Trichoplusia ni (Huebner) is a common pest of cruciferous plants, including cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, collards, kale, and turnips. They will also
feed on plants such as cucumber, lettuce, pea, spinach, and
tomato. This insect is found in many parts of the world and
throughout the United States in areas where crucifers are
grown. The adults are very capable fliers and can readily
disperse from one area to another.
Early instar larva of the cabbage looper
Under favorable weather conditions, cabbage loopers require 18 to 25 days to develop from egg to adult.
This species overwinters in the southern portion of its range and then reinvades more northern areas after
the winter months. In northern Florida, cabbage loopers are active intermittently during the winter. When
the eggs hatch, the larvae are a dusky white in color and then become pale green.
The older larvae are green with a white stripe along the
sides. When the caterpillars move, they arch their back and
form a loop before moving the front portion of their body
forward. When beginning the pupal stage, cabbage loopers
construct a thin white cocoon on the underside of leaves or
in soil or on plant debris. The juvenile cabbage loopers
spend approximately one week in the cocoon before
emerging as adults. The adults are relatively nondescript
with a mottled gray-brown on the front wings and brown
Mature larva of the cabbage looper
on the hind wings. However, the front wings have distinctive
silvery white spots in the center that allow them to be distinguished from other related moths. The adults
typically live 1-2 weeks with females producing hundreds of eggs during this time.
Cabbage looper caterpillars feed on the leaves of their
host plants. The younger larvae feed on the lower
sides of leaves, while the older larvae chew holes in
leaves. In some crops, the damage caused by these caterpillars does not result in significant loss of harvest.
Adult cabbage looper
This species has several natural enemies, including
wasps and parasitic flies. The adult populations can be
effectively monitored and captured using light traps,
particularly when chemical lures are also used. Neem
can be effective to deter feeding and disrupt growth in
cabbage loopers.
Source: http://entomology.ifas.ufl.edu/creatures/veg/leaf/cabbage_looper.htm .
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Is There Life in the Garden After a Freeze?
As most Florida gardeners have learned, we live in a state of
weather extremes and our winters are an excellent example.
One day we may have temperatures in the low 80’s and the
next night we can be down to 30 degrees. These extremes are
sometimes hard for us to adjust to, and even harder for our
plants. Here are some tips on how to care for your plants before and after a freeze.
Before a Freeze: In gener al, plants that ar e healthy and
well-nourished can weather a freeze better than weak or diseased plants. A healthy plant may receive just as much cold
damage as a weak plant, but the healthy plant will be able to recover faster from injury. Do not to fertilize
late in the fall as this can result in a late flush of growth that is more susceptible to cold injury
Water: Water ing landscape plants befor e a fr eeze can help pr otect them. Wet soil absor bs mor e
heat during the day and radiates it during the night. Water your plants (including potted plants) thoroughly,
but don’t leave them standing in water. Prolonged saturated soil conditions damage the root systems of
most plants.
Potted Plants: Move container plants into pr otected ar eas wher e heat can be supplied or tr apped. If
you have to leave containers outdoors, push them together and protect with mulch or cover to reduce heat
loss from the container walls.
Mulch: Heat r adiates fr om the soil sur face dur ing the night and is mainly lost to the atmospher e unless it is trapped. Reduce radiant heat loss and protect plant roots by placing mulch around the plants. For
perennials, the root system is all that needs to be protected.
Coverings: Cover ings pr otect mor e fr om fr ost than fr om extr eme cold. Cover s that extend to the
ground and do not touch plant foliage can lessen cold injury by trapping heat. Be careful when using plastic as a cover because foliage that touches plastic is often injured since the cover actually takes heat away
from the plant. Examples of coverings include cloth sheets, old quilts and blankets, plastic, or commercial
frost cloths. My backyard in the winter often looks like a laundry explosion occurred! Remember to remove plastic covers during a sunny day or provide ventilation to keep the air under the cover from heating
up too much. Putting a light bulb under a cover is a simple method of providing heat to plants in the landscape.
After the Freeze: Plants can lose water after a fr eeze, especially on a sunny day, because the water in the soil or container medium is frozen. Watering the plants will give them available water and will also help thaw the soil.
Pruning: For those who want to get out in the gar den and
start pruning off all the dead limbs and leaves, I have two
words: BE PATIENT! Some cold injury is obvious, some is
not. For instance, two symptoms of cold injury are a lack of
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but you won’t be able to tell that until spring. If you prune too
early, you may be cutting off live tissue and stressing the plant
further. You can always remove dead leaves, but wait to do
any severe pruning.
Citrus: Citr us can be gr own almost state wide, but most
require protection when the freeze comes to visit. Citrus fruit
are damaged if the temperature stays at or below 28 degrees
for four hours or more. Harvest everything you can and thoroughly wet the soil around the tree 24 hours before a freeze. A
good way to protect your tree is by trapping ground heat. Cover the entire tree with a fabric cover and consider using an electric light bulb for additional heat. If your tree is too large to cover completely, wrap the
trunk with several layers of cloth. Either way, be sure the graft is protected and the secured covering reaches all the way to the ground, and remove it when temperatures rise above freezing. Postpone pruning your
citrus trees until spring, as newly pruned trees are more susceptible to cold damage. Cold damage can also
be minimized by following some annual cultural practices. Don’t fertilize after July. A late application of
fertilizer can stimulate a new flush of growth in the fall that is especially susceptible to freeze damage.
Vegetables: Many of our cool season vegetables can take some cold, but if your leafy gr eens look
wilted after a freeze, and don’t revive after several days, there is probably some severe damage. The very
cold hardy vegetables, like spinach, kale and collards, should bounce back after a freeze, but it always pays
off to cover them. If you lose some plants to the cold, replant immediately with cool-season crops including carrot, cabbage, broccoli, and radish until the end of February.
Ornamental Plants: If your or namentals sur vived the cold, but your not sur e how much damage
they received, scrape the bark along a branch. If the cambium layer under the bark is brown or black, it has
sustained some damage. Again, don’t be too quick to cut it back; prune or fertilize; winter isn’t over yet,
and we will probably have more cold weather.
Lawns: Lawns often look dead in the winter , as most of them go thr ough a winter dor mancy. One of
the most often asked questions about lawns is: how can I green it back up? The best course of action for
turf and other ornamental plant recovery is to wait for warmer conditions to return, and then resume normal but not excessive amounts of water and fertilizer. Fertilizing after a freeze will do more harm to your
lawn than waiting for spring green-up. Do not apply a weed and feed product for preemergence weed control during the winter. You will not need to mow for some time;
when you do need to mow again, be sure to cut at the highest recommended height for your grass type. Do not "scalp" the lawn, as
this makes it less able to recover from freeze damage.
So, a good rule of thumb is : Before a freeze, move quickly to
make sure plants are watered, covered and protected from the jaws
of old man winter. But after a freeze, move slowly, take your time
and be sure what you are pruning actually needs it!
Laurie
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Congratulations 2014 Master Gardeners!
Master Gardener Coordinator Jim DeValerio celebrates with the 2014 UF/IFAS Bradford County Master
Gardeners: Donna Solze, Jeanni Perry, Matthew Scott, Joyce Bryan and Douglas Rudd.
The Master Gardener students completed 50 hours of instruction over 10 weeks in the fall of 2014 and
were recognized for their efforts during a graduation ceremony on December 12th at the Plant Science
Unit on the University of Florida’s main campus.
Addicted to active learning, the group couldn’t sit still long! After a short ceremony they learned how
Master Gardeners impact the State of Florida from MG Statewide Coordinator Tom Wichman. Tom’s
presentation was followed by Dr. Phil Koehler’s expertise regarding dealing with insect pests around the
home. Surprise! MG’s learn about a lot more than just gardening!
Ready to get outside, the group moved to the Horticultural Science Greenhouse complex to learn from Ria
Leonard about UF/IFAS’s very own coleus breeding program. You might be surprised to learn that the
colorful coleus plants you see in retail markets were likely developed at the University of Florida.
After lunch, activities included a trip to the IFAS Bookstore where our new graduates found many books
related to horticulture and gardening. But the afternoon treat was a walking tour of a Florida Yards &
Neighborhoods demonstration landscape along side a traditional non-FYN landscape. It was very interested to learn exactly how much water can be conserved without compromising landscape attractiveness!