JSAS jersey shore aquarium society

October, 2012 Volume 23, No 9 The Official Publication of the Jersey Shore Aquarium Society www.jerseyshoreas.org THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 2
Special Orders
+ Hard-to-Find
Items
Great P
rices…
Great P
roducts…
Great S
ervice.
All About Pets
Rout 35 & Sea Girt Avenue
Fish and Aquarium Supplies
 Reptiles, Snakes, Lizards
 Birds and Small Animals
 Plus Food and Supplies to
Keep All Your Pets Healthy

Call Bill at (732) 223-4530
FREE DELIVERY TO JSAS MEETINGS!
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 3
Join us for Our
Next Meeting:
October 8
At 8:00 pm
Annual Bowl Show &
New Product
Bowl Show
Showcase
Rules:
Featuring…
 Ben from ZooMed
 Bill from All About Pets
Pages 11-12
Exciting Giveaways
Sponsored by
ZooMed
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 4
SAVE THE DATE:
JSAS Spring Auction
March 10, 2013
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 5
JSAS jersey shore aquarium society JOIN US FOR OUR NEXT MEETING...
October 8 @ 8:00 PM
Annual Bowl Show
& New Product Showcase
JSAS 2012 OFFICERS & LEADERSHIP
PRESIDENT Shelly Kirschenbaum (908) 415‐3677 [email protected] VICE PRESIDENT Bill Loesch (732) 528‐9491 [email protected] TREASURER Norman Gruenfeld (732) 363‐2755 [email protected] WEBSITE Jeff Compell (732) 901‐9197 [email protected] MAP PROGRAM Nancy Villars/Hallgring (732) 787‐0654 [email protected] MEMBERSHIP Nancy Villars/Hallgring (732) 787‐0654 [email protected] BAP PROGRAM Michael Palmese (732) 744‐3673 [email protected] RECORDING SECRETARY Terry Jones (732) 995‐8562 [email protected] PAST PRESIDENT Matt Siegel (732) 859‐5595 [email protected] The Jersey Shore Aquarium Society meets at 8:00 p.m. on the second Monday every month (except August) at The Knights of Columbus Hall on Route 537 (70 East Main Street) in Freehold, New Jersey. Each meeting typically features an interesting slide or video presentation of related tropical fish topics. Our presenters are often professionals or experienced hob‐
byists in their respective fields. SPEAKERS/PROGRAMS Terry Jones (732) 995‐8562 [email protected] NEC LIASON Nancy Villars/Hallgring (732) 787‐0654 [email protected] EXCHANGE EDITOR Jake Blatt (908) 208‐7820 [email protected] THE SHORELINE EDITOR Matt Siegel (732) 859‐5595 [email protected] WWW.JERSEYSHOREAS.ORG THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 6
JSAS membership rewards Absolutely Fish, Clifton Pet Shanty, Scotch Plains 15% Discount (excludes sale items) 10% Discount—Fish & Aquarium Drygoods Adam’s Pet Safari, Warren & Chester Red Sand Aquarium, Dunellen 15% Discount 10% Discount—Marine Air Water & Ice Reef to Reptiles, Ocean www.AirWaterIce.com 10% Discount 10% Discount—Use promo code # 39769 + Free Shipping over $150—Use promo code # Shark Aquarium, Hillside 99090 15% Discount All About Pets, Sea Girt (JSAS Member) Sharkey’s Aquarium, Point Pleasant 20% discount—Fish & Aquarium Drygoods 10% Discount (excluding feeder fish/shrimp) Allquatics, Hamilton Tropiquarium, Ocean 15% Discount 10% Discount—Fish Only Jim Straughn’s Aquarium, Feasterville, PA Vladiscus, Feasterville, PA 15% Discount 10% Discount Ocean Gallery Aquatics, N. Plainfield Your Fish Stuff 15% Discount www.YourFishStuff.com 10% Discount—Use promo code ‘jsas’ Pets Pets Pets, Somerset 40% Discount—Freshwater Fish JSAS Welcomes Retail Partners
30% Discount—Aquarium Drygoods 20% Discount—Saltwater Fish For additional information, please
Buy 2, Get 1 Free—Corals email: [email protected]
Your JSAS Membership Card entitles you to valuable discounts at these great retailers. Be sure to show your 2012 membership card at checkout for your dis‐
count. JSAS membership has its privileges. We must support those who sup‐
port us.
Restrictions may apply. See retailer for details. THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 7
BAP breeders awards program Current Standings
1 Larry Jinks
2980
22
Gary Wong
60
2
3
Michael Palmese
Dean Majorino
1350
1245
23
24
Michelle Palmese
Jennifer Palmese
55
50
4
Richard Janssen
825
25
Bob & Lauren Hicks
45
5
Frank Nell
690
26
40
6
Dave Leshinsky
370
Tony Gallirio
Barbara & Dan DeCross
7
John Wares
325
27
30
8
Anthony Metta
290
Herb Frietsch
Klaus Huenecke
9
Bill Loesch
280
28
25
10
Robert Janssen
270
29
11
Bill Arndt
265
12
Leonard Reback
225
Gary Silver & Cindy HmeloSilver
Adam Gwizdz
Kimberly Palmese
Frank Policastro
Bill Barbito
Jeff Compell
13
Jim Sorge
200
14
Rory Lay
195
30
Jesse Reddin
15
15
Lothar Koenigstein
190
31
Dave Maxwell
10
16
Luis Morales
165
32
James Golazeski
10
17
Shelly Kirschenbaum
135
33
Frank Brown
10
18
Nancy Villars
140
34
David Cohen
5
19
Dave Salkin
100
35
Bill Guest
5
20
Charles Smith
Jim Costello
90
36
Stephen Morgan
5
21
Tony Angso
75
20
Spawns for the Month of September 2012
Juliochromis Regani – Nancy Villars
Microrasbora Galaxy Rasbora – Jesse Reddin
Tropheus Dubosi – Tony Angso
Labidiochromis Hongi – Rory Lay
Copadiochromis Borleyi – Rory Lay
Nimbochromis Venustus – Michelle Palmese
Archocentrus sp. "Honduran Red Point" – Michelle Palmese
Labidiochromis Perlmutt - Jennifer Palmese
Geophagus Braziliensis - Jennifer Palmese
Submitted by Mike Palmese, BAP Chair THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 8
Located at:
3010 Route 88
Point Pleasant, NJ
Call for Directions:
(732) 295-6600
Open:
Tue—Sun
12—8 PM
JSAS Member
DISCOUNT
10% Off All Purchases
Excluding Feeder Fish/Shrimp
Call or stop by Sharkey’s Aquarium for a great deal
on slate-bottom 20-long and 10-gallon aquariums!
Stop by SHARKEY’S AQUARIUM for Great Tropical Fish and Supplies! MEMBER CLASSIFIED
110 Gallon High Tank. Holds water,
no leaks. No stand. Best offer.
Contact Bill Guest (609) 658-5716 or
[email protected]
JSAS assumes no liability for member ads’ accuracy or to
warranty products/services sold.
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 9
FOTM fish of the month NAME- Neolamprologus brichardi
COMMON NAME- Princess cichlid, Princess of Burundi, Lyretail cichlid, Fairy cichlid and Brichard's Lamprologus.
FAMILY- Cichlidae
ORIGIN- N. brichardi is endimic to the alkaline waters
of Lake Tanganyika in east Africa.
TYPICAL SIZE/COLOR- In the
aquarium, specimens of
brichardi have been known to grow to 150 mm (6"), including the filaments on the
tail. The Neolamprologus brichardi is a unique and beautiful fish. The beauty is
not necessarily from stunning color (predominantly silvery), but rather their long
and graceful filaments that adorn the unpaired fins of the adults. A fine specimen
of N. brichardi will also have a beautiful blue pattern on its cheeks.
TANK TYPE/SIZE- The best method for keeping Neolamprologus brichardi is in a species-only
tank. A tank as small as 15 gallons can be utilized, though between 20 and 35 gallons would be
more appropriate. By keeping this fish on its own, not only do you limit the chance they will
eliminate their tankmates, but their graceful finnage will likely grow better.
That is not to say that it is impossible to keep this fish with other Tanganyikans, but one must be
careful in selecting tankmates, and the aquarium should be at least 90 cm long (36"), with a
120 cm (48") tank being preferable. Some commonly available fish that should be compatible
would include: Neolamprologus leleupi, cylindricus; Altolamprologus calvus, compressiceps;
Julidochromis marlieri or regani.
There is, however, a bit of a secret to making this work. Any other tankmates must be much larger than the brichardi to begin with and they must establish their territory in the aquarium first.
Purchasing an adult pair of calvus and juvenile brichardi would be an example of a situation that
would normally work out. There is one important caveat: in a tank of less than 120 cm (48") you
would be limited to two pairs of fish when including brichardi in the mix, though this may not
even be successful.
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 10
DIET- In the wild N. brichardi specializes on feeding from the
rocky biocover, picking at small crustaceans and invertebrates. It will also
feed on swarms of plankton when
available. In the aquarium, this fish will
readily accept prepared foods, such as
cichlid pellets, and flake food, but it is
recommended to supplement this diet
with brine shrimp, mysis shrimp or
Cyclops.
WATER PARAMETERS- The pH-value
should be kept in the 8.0-9.0 range, the
water hardiness between dH 9 and 19
and the water temperature from 22 to 25 degrees C.
TEMPERMENT- It is one of the few substrate-spawning cichlid that also schools. It is not
unheard of to find a school numbering near 100,000 individuals within a 50 m
square area.
SEXING- This is not an easy fish to sex. Adult males are usually slightly larger and develop
longer extensions to the dorsal and caudal fins than females. It is best to start with a group of fry
and allow them to pair up as nature takes it’s course.
BREEDING- This is one of the easiest Tanganyikans to keep, and indeed to breed, and a
true beginner's fish. The fish will begin to breed in the aquarium as early as 5 cm
(2"). They aren’t particularly choosy in selecting spawning mediums, and are
known to spawn in rockwork, conch and welch shells, and inverted flower pots.
As in the wild, the parents will allow many generations of fry to stay within the
territory, and indeed these fry will assist the parents in guarding the younger fry.
It is one of the few fish in Africa that utilizes a collective nursery. This means that
adults, sub-adults, and even half-grown fry all participate in a multi-generational
rearing of the fry. N. brichardi individuals not only care for their own fry but also
the fry of those around them, all while keeping vigil over other adults still actively
spawning.. JSAS
Submitted by Steve Hallgring, FOTM Editor THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 11
JSAS Bowl Show Rules
Our Annual Bowl Show is October 8
1. Any JSAS member in good standing may participate.
2. Fish must be owned by the Aquarist for at least 30
days prior to showing.
3. All fish must be mature specimens.
4. Each participant may enter up to (3) fishes per class.
5. Fish must be displayed in a clear container with at
least one flat side to allow easy viewing by the
judge(s).
6. The container should be of an appropriate size for
the fish being displayed at the discretion of the Bowl
Show Chairman.
7. Covers are strongly recommended.
8. Only fish are permitted in the container. No backgrounds, plants, driftwood, rocks, sand/gravel, shells or decorations of any kind are permitted.
9. Dividers may be used for multiple entries within the same class
10.If necessary, each entrant is responsible for supplying air (pumps, tubing, and extension cords), heaters, etc to his/her own containers.
11.All containers will be numbered and/or labeled by the bowl show committee. No other names or identifying marks will be allowed.
12.No person may judge a class in which he/ she has entries.
13.Ribbons will be awarded for the top three (3) entries in each category.
Also, a Best of Show will be given to the top first place winner of the
show.
14.Artistic/Photography category entries must have been done by the exhibitor.
15.All entries must be registered before 8:15PM. No entries will be accepted
after this time.
16.All decisions of the judges, and/or Bowl Show Chairman shall be Final.
17.The JSAS and Bowl Show Chair/Committee will not be responsible for
any losses.
18.All competitors will receive 5 additional door prize tickets for entering.
(Maximum of 6 door prize tickets per competitor.)
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 12
JSAS Bowl Show Classes
Our Annual Bowl Show is October 8
B1 Livebeareres
Guppy male
Guppy female
Platy, Swordtail, Molly
All other livebearers
B2 Egglayers
Killifish
Goldfish
Barb & Danio
Rainbow
Tetra
All other egglayers
B3 Betta
Betta male
Betta female
B4 Catfish
Suckermouth cats
Armored cats
Smooth cats
Corydoras
All other catfishes
B5 African Cichlids
Haplochromines
Malawi—Aulonacara
Malawi—Mbuna
Tanganyika—Substrate
spawners
Tanganyika—All other
All other African Cichlids
B6 South & Central American Cichlids
Angelfish
Discus
New world dwarf
New world 3-5”
New world 6-10”
New world 11+”
All other South & Central American Cichlids
B7 Photography
B8 Art
B9 Theme/Novelty Tank
B10 Specialty
Plant
All other aquatic life
It’s time to begin planning which fish you’ll
bring to this year’s Bowl Show. As always,
Bill Loesch of All About Pets in Sea Girt will
preview new products geared for today’s
hobbyists.
One thing common among JSAS members is
the love of looking at beautiful tropical fish.
Do you have a prize fish that might be interesting to others? If so, enter for this year’s
Bowl Show.
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 13
So, You Want a Show
Fish
By Craig Morfitt, BFAS
Originally Printed by Bermuda Fry-Angle
Aquarium Society
I have been asked to put together some tips and
guidelines on how to prepare a fish for competition
in our annual fish show. Hopefully, the following
information will be of assistance.
What Type of Fish
I suppose the first step in the process is determining what type of fish you wish to obtain as your
show fish. This decision will be affected by your
aims and ambitions, as success in certain classes
is much easier to attain than in others. First of all,
I’ll list the classes as they exist in our show.
Cichlidae – any of the cichlids
Characins – includes tetras and other characins
Cyprinidae – includes the barbs, botias, loaches,
danios, rasboras and goldfish
Catfish – any of the catfishes
Poeceiliidae – the livebearers such as swordtails,
platies, guppies and mollies
Anabantoids – Labyrinth fish such as bettas,
gouramies and others
True Bony Fishes – Includes the knife-fishes, rainbow fish, gobies, blennies, snakeheads, spiny eels,
etc.
If your aim is to win a Best in Class trophy and you
don’t have a preference for the class of fish, you
would do well to select your fish carefully. For the
past few years, competition has been greatest in
the Cichlid class. In fact, the Best in Show for some
time has been a cichlid. If you simply want to win a
Best in Class trophy, entering with a cichlid would
be the hardest way to achieve it (although if you
did get the Best Cichlid award, you’d certainly be in
the running for Best in Show). The second most
popular class is that of the Catfishes. Between
them, the cichlids and catfishes make up a significant majority of the show entries. We very seldom
get entries for the True Bony Fishes category and,
often, the only fish in that class wins the trophy!
Clearly, this is the easiest way to win a trophy but it
may not be very satisfying if you only beat yourself!
You may wish to consider one of the other less
popular classes.
You may have decided that, if you are to put a lot
of effort into raising a show fish, you may as well
aim high and go for Best in Show. If that’s the way
you want to go, selecting a cichlid is probably a
good choice. There is no guarantee that a cichlid
will win the show each year, but they have taken
the top spot year after year. That said, any of the
classes could provide a big winner if the fish has
everything in the right proportions.
Once you have decided on the class of fish to acquire, you need to consider the various species.
Shy retiring cichlids, such as Apistogrammas, are
unlikely to show well enough to win the big award.
Cichlids from Lake Victoria, whilst extremely attractive when coloured up in a home aquarium, have a
tendency to lose colour in show-tanks and do not
show well. There are always exceptions, but it
would be wise to avoid Victorians when specifically
selecting a show fish. You need to locate a species
that will not feel intimidated in a show setting, and
that will not fade out when kept in isolation.
Know what the species look like as adults, and
what conditions they require. Some cichlids can
develop flowing filaments on their fins that are very
attractive. You wouldn’t know that when looking at
juveniles in a tank. Research is the key. Know what
the species will grow up to look like, how big it will
be, and whether it is likely to make a good show
fish.
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 14
You also need to decide how much tank space you
wish to dedicate to your show fish. This will also
have some bearing on which species you select. I
had a Peacock cichlid that won Best in Show for
four consecutive years. That fish always lived in a
10-gallon tank and did very well. Conversely, my
Hericthys bocourti became quite cramped in his 30
-gallon-long tank and I had to treat him to an upgrade (a 55-gallon tank). If you choose a Pacu, be
prepared to dedicate a huge tank to it – and good
luck in getting such a monster to the show site! I
think you get the picture. If you are just getting into
showing fish, it might be wise to restrict yourself to
fish that grow no larger than 6 inches.
Selecting the Actual Fish
Once you have an idea of which species you want
to show, you need to acquire one, or more, of
them. You will have to decide whether you wish to
purchase an adult fish or a juvenile. I recommend
purchasing juveniles from good stock. If possible,
try to purchase F1 stock (first generation from wild
parents). Coming from wild parents, the F1 juveniles should be very close to the wild-state of the
species and have less chance of being deformed
from in-breeding. Purchasing from a reputable
breeder also has its advantages. However, for
many species, you would do well to simply scour
the tanks at the local pet-store, looking for the fish
that stands out from the others.
regular attention to water quality and good food will
pay dividends later.
If you are growing out a group of juvenile cichlids,
you will probably note that one fish grows more
rapidly than the others. Take a good look at this
fish, checking body shape, fins, etc. This may be a
good fish to select out of the bunch.
Conditioning the Fish
Okay! Let’s assume that you have acquired your
potential show-fish and have it on the way to adult
size. If you haven’t already begun to do so, you
You may wish to purchase six or more juveniles
should start conditioning it for life as a show fish.
and begin to grow them all out. This is particularly You want the fish to be comfortable in a fairly bare,
the case for cichlids. As they grow, pay close atten- and fairly small, tank. You also want it to show ittion to how they look. You will be able to pick the
self to the judge, and not to cower in a corner.
best of the bunch for your show fish and isolate it. There are a few tips and tricks that might help you
in conditioning the fish.
I don’t want to rule out the option of purchasing an I always kept my Peacock in a 10-gallon tank that
adult fish. Sometimes, an adult male becomes
was totally bare except for a crushed coral subavailable because he killed his mate and is no
strate, a sponge filter and a heater. I transported
longer of use to a breeder. It might be that the male the fish to the show in the same tank and showed it
would make a great show fish. Sometimes, nice
in the same tank. The fish obviously felt at home
adult fish are available at the pet-store. Keep your when it was shown – because it was! By maintaineyes, ears and options open.
ing the fish in the same tank that it will be shown in
you remove any problems associated with the fish
Growing Out
reacting to a strange tank.
By acquiring juveniles, you can ensure that they
have optimum grow-out conditions and that you get
the best growth from them. Those who have paid
attention to our grow-out competitions will realize
that an abundance of water changes, coupled with
large servings of quality food, result in rapid
growth. You should provide your budding show fish
with the best care possible. Treat it like royalty. The
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 15
Another “trick” is to enter a second fish in the show
purely to enhance the appearance of your main
entry. Placing a female in the tank next to your
male may encourage him to really strut his stuff
during judging – especially if he hasn’t seen a female since last year’s show! Likewise, a subdominant male “next door” may bring out the aggression of your show male and encourage him to
look his best during the judging. Even if you only
enter a single fish, you may be able to use this ploy
by placing your fish next to another similar fish.
Taking the Fish to the Show
Assuming that you have taken all the steps that I
have already outlined, and you are ready for the
show, there are a couple of other things that you
can do to help your chances of winning.
I trained my bocourti to bite at my finger whenever I
place it against the front glass of the tank. I did this
in the same way we would train a dog – by positive
reinforcement. I would place my finger on the tank
regularly. Whenever the fish mouthed it, or bit at it,
I would immediately introduce food into the tank. It
doesn’t take long for a cichlid to realize that a certain behaviour results in him being fed. Why would
I want to train my fish to do this? Well, part of the
score in the show is for deportment. A 10-12 inch
Central American cichlid is expected to “strut his
stuff” to a certain extent. If he cowered in a corner
when the judge placed a finger on the glass, he
would lose points for deportment. Chris Roy’s show
-winning Peacock lived in a small tank on the
kitchen counter. The Peacock and the family cat
regularly had a go at each other through the tank
glass. After “fighting” a cat every day, there was
little wonder that it challenged anything that approached the front glass of the tank during a show!
I should add that no show judge would expect a
sucker-mouth catfish to attack the glass – they are
expected to do little more than sit on driftwood.
Fish should act as expected for their species.
I’ve heard of fish keepers who shine a flashlight
into the tank, and hold a clip-board in their hands,
before feeding their show fish every day. The idea
is to condition the fish to think that food will be
coming whenever a flashlight is shone into the
tank, or someone holds a clip-board. Show judges
often carry clip-boards and shine flashlights on the
show fish to get a closer look. It is just another way
to prepare the fish to look its best at the right time.
I have already discussed taking the fish to the
show in the tank that he lives in year-round. Don’t
under-estimate the value of this. You want your fish
to be as comfortable as possible. Don’t introduce
unnecessary stress. For the same reason, take
sufficient water with you to fill the tank. The water
at the show site may not be the same as that at
home. Don’t risk stressing your fish. Take some
water in a trash-can and fill the tank with water
from home. Also, don’t feed your fish for a couple
of days before the show. If he’s a little bit hungry,
he may show off a little more.
Don’t Give Up After One Try
After all of your efforts, your fish may not win the
big prize, or any prize. Don’t give up! Experience
shows that very different results can be achieved
with the same fish under different judges, and in
subsequent years. A split fin one year could cost
the fish a place but should have healed by the next
year. Even fish have off-days. My bocourti won
Best in Show in 2001. In 2002, he didn’t win a
thing. However, in 2003 he won Best in Show
again! You’ll know if your fish is in the running, and
your fellow competitors will certainly give you feed
back.
So, What Are You Waiting For
I’ve provided you some tips and suggestions. Now
it is up to you. Research the fish books. Get out to
the pet-store, or scour the available fish at the next
club auction. Pick out your fish and get to work.
JSAS
Submitted by Matthew Siegel, Editor THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 16
JSAS is Proud to Support:
Handmade Ceramic Spawning
Caves, Logs and Discus Cones
SOUTH
CENTRAL
CICHLIDS
MONTHLY AUCTION RULES
All auction items will have a minimum bid as follows:
Fish & Drygoods—Minimum Bid
Live Plants—Minimum Bid
$
3
All caves are handmade in our Port
Monmouth facility from food-grade
stoneware clay. They are natural
looking with a wood-grain finish.
Thick-walled construction means
they’ll last a lifetime. Choose from
three colors: Brick, Buff or Walnut.
$
5
$
The JSAS split will be just 1. We
give everything else to the consignor
of the lot. Do you have successful
spawns in your fishroom? Do you
have good quality drygoods collecting dust on your shelves?
Try the JSAS Monthly Auction!
www.SouthCentralCichlids.com
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 17
JSAS is pleased to support our sister clubs!
Brooklyn Aquarium Society—Meets at 7:30 pm on the 2nd Friday each month (except July and August) at the Educational Hall of the New York Aquarium at Coney Island, Surf Avenue at West 8th
Street. www.BASNY.org
North Jersey Aquarium Society—Meets at 7:45 pm every 3rd Thursday each month (except August—
Picnic; December—Holiday Party) at the Lyndhurst Elks Club, 251 Park Avenue, Lyndhurst, NJ.
www.njas.net
Bucks County Aquarium Society—Meets at 7:30 pm on the 1st Thursday each month (except August)
at the Churchville Nature Center, 501 Churchville Lane, Churchville, PA. www.bcasonline.com
Delaware County Aquarium Society—Meets at 8:00 pm on the 1st Friday each month (except July
and August) at the Springfield Township Building, 50 Powell Road, Springfield, PA. www.dcas.us
Garden State Betta Association—Meets the 2nd Sunday each month at Frank Siracusa’s house.
Contact him for details: [email protected]
Aquarium Club of Lancaster County—Meets at 1:00 pm on the 3rd Saturday each month at That Fish
Place, 237 Centerville Road, Lancaster, PA. http://aclcpa.org
Northeast Council of Aquarium Societies (NEC)—As a JSAS member in good standing, you are
automatically a member of NEC. For more information, visit www.NorthEastCouncil.org or speak with
Nancy Villars/Hallgring at an upcoming meeting.
Do you have an announcement for the JSAS membership?
Email it to: [email protected]
Jersey Shore Aquarium Society
General Membership Meetings:
October
8—Bowl Show
November 12—Larry Jinks
December 10—Holiday Party
All Meeting Begin at 8:00 pm
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 18
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Editor: Exchange Editor: Matthew Siegel [email protected] Jake Blatt [email protected] Any material reprinted from The Shoreline for noncommercial use, unless previously copyrighted by the au‐
thor, credit must be bestowed to the author and The Shoreline. One copy shall be forwarded to the Editor. The Shoreline accepts contributions from members and non‐members and prints submissions as space per‐
mits. We are always seeking articles about keeping or breeding fish, maintaining a fishroom, photos, anec‐
dotes, etc. If you’re interested in seeing your submission published, please send via email to [email protected]. Members in good standing can place business‐card size ads at no charge. Send ad copy by email to: [email protected] The Shoreline is published monthly (except August) and distributed via email and online at www.jerseyshoreas.org. For those without computer access, we also maintain a small supply of black & white printed copies at the membership table at each monthly meeting. You can read The Shoreline on your iPad. Open your monthly email attachment using iBooks to read and archive every issue of The Shoreline.
iPad and iPhoneare registered trademarks of Apple, Inc. ANNUAL DUES: Single Membership—$20.00 Family Membership—$30.00; couples ages 17 years old and above who attend regular meetings together. Junior Membership—$10.00; 16 years old or younger attending meetings on their own. Such membership re‐
quires written approval by a parent/guardian. Guests—$5.00; applicable towards membership at that meeting. PAYMENT OF DUES: Membership dues are due in full at the time of joining regardless of the time of year. Dues will be prorated for the second year of membership based on the following schedule: Month Joined: 2nd Year Dues: JAN‐MAR 100% APR‐JUN 75% JUL‐SEP 50% OCT‐DEC 25% WWW.JERSEYSHOREAS.ORG