Photos by FRAN COLLIN
Transcription
Photos by FRAN COLLIN
CROP CIRCLES Story by LEA BOYD Photos by FRAN COLLIN SUMMER2012 53 PREVIOUS PAGE, fresh from the greenhouse, Butter Head lettuce is harvested from hydroponic growing ponds. ABOVE, an unidentified employee inspects some cut flowers, which remain Carpinteria’s number one agricultural crop. OPPOSITE PAGE, Butter Head lettuce is ready to eat. 54 CARPINTERIAMAGAZINE.com arpinteria greenhouse growers, faced with intense competition from cheap South American flower imports, are now forced to adapt to a new market. Competitive pressure has led many growers to switch crops, and some are evolving in a surprising new direction—diversifying from flowers into food. “I feel personally that in the future we’re going to see big strides in the development of hydroponic vegetables,” said David Van Wingerden of Westland Floral & Produce. Westland, a company long rooted in flower production, introduced hydroponic lettuce a few years ago and plans to expand its edible produce growing operation this year to account for over 10 percent of its greenhouse space. Carpinteria Valley greenhouses still yield far more products grown for vases than plates, but the reduced profitability of flower growing has nursery owners looking for the next best crop. The Andean Trade Preference and Drug Eradication Act (ATPDEA), which took effect in 1991, opened the floodgates to South American flower imports into the United States, and since then, domestic growers have seen their share of the market plummet. In addition to cheap flower imports from South America, increasing costs and local regulation has resulted in 80 percent of the flowers sold in the United States coming from South America. The majority of floral sold in California, though, comes from Carpinteria. “So much was gravy at that time,” remembers June Van Wingerden of Ocean Breeze nursery, “but now if you are in the black you feel really good. It’s very, very tight.” South American flower growers enjoy the economic benefit of inexpensive labor, cheap land and far fewer environmental regulations than their U.S. competitors. As a result, imported flowers can be sold at prices that drive down profits for Carpinteria flower growers who still seek to compete. “There’s no way that we can be competitive in the long haul,” said June’s husband, Rene. Ocean Breeze still devotes all 30 acres of local greenhouse space to flowers, but the company operates hothouses in Nipomo that now produce Persian cucumbers under the management of June and Rene’s son, Ivor. Rene says he plans to grow flowers until he retires, but forecasts that the next generation of nursery owners will shift toward food production. Locally, Hollandia Produce pioneered the switch to hydroponic produce even before the ATPDEA changed the rules of the flower game. According to nursery owner Pete Overgaag, few growers were in the hydroponic produce market when Hollandia started growing cucumbers in 1986. Overgaag saw opportunity in the wide-open niche and phased out the company’s flower operations in exchange for hothouse vegetables. Now Hollandia’s 20 acres of greenhouses produce butter lettuce that is shipped to grocery stores, restaurants and hotels at a rate of thousands of heads each week. Farmers have put seeds in the ground for centuries, and Carpinteria boasts a long history of successful food crops—the trend toward food production in greenhouses is a new twist on a classic tale. “You just produce more per square foot,” Rene responded when asked about the advantage of growing veggies in a greenhouse rather than in the Carpinteria soil. “We can produce four to five times the lettuce on an acre in a greenhouse than you can in a field,” said David of Westland’s burgeoning operation. Rooted in a material called rock wool and growing in the controlled temperatures of the greenhouse, Westland’s lettuces mature from seedlings to full heads in three weeks during the summer and four to five weeks in winter. The leafy greens are packaged with their roots intact and retain their fresh taste for up to three to four weeks in a refrigerator. “We’re selling more and it’s looking promising,” said David of the new venture. “We’re excited about it.” Increased production has made vegetable growing worthwhile for nurseries like Westland, but the hydroponic equation PREVIOUS PAGES, big picture of the low-water lettuce-growing technique. ABOVE, locally grown lettuce includes Butter Head, Red Oak Leaf, Green Oak Leaf, and arugula. The produce is available at local farmers markets and Southern California retail grocers. RIGHT, two generations of Van Wingerden growers. From left are David, David’s father Jerry, Alex, and Alex’s father Case. OPPOSITE PAGE TOP, the partnership of Carpinteria growers has continued generation to generation and has built a history in the flower industry. OPPOSITE PAGE BOTTOM, Butter Head lettuce takes root in the water. Hydroponically grown vegetables are likely to be a larger part of Carpinteria farms in the future. 58 CARPINTERIAMAGAZINE.com hinges on more than one variable. Water and fertilizers are recycled in greenhouses, which reduces expensive inputs by more than half, David explained. Pest pressure is also reduced, and growers can rely heavily on organic materials and beneficial organisms to take care of the few pests that find their way into the greenhouses. Given the ability to manipulate the plants’ environment and control pests, produce that emerges from greenhouses is nearly flawless— emerald lettuce leaves without a nibble from an insect, thin-skinned cucumbers ready to crunch into right off the vine and tomatoes that look perfect and taste perfect, too. Along with Westland and Hollandia, Cervini Farms of California and Creekside Floral Inc. make up the Carpinteria growers whose greenhouses include some form of hydroponic produce. Rene estimates that only about 2 to 3 percent of total greenhouse acreage in Carpinteria is used to grow produce, but he sees this number growing in years to come. The hydroponic vegetable industry comes with its downsides as well. “You’re making spring season year round with a greenhouse,” Rene says, “but there’s a price tag with that.” The costs of the greenhouse structure, energy inputs and nutrients all add up. Then there’s the fickle nature of the food market and the issue of securing buyers and transporting vegetables to them. Local growers are well versed in their systems for flowers, but vegetables present some new challenges. The second generation of Carpinteria Van Wingerdens, nurserymen like David’s father, Jerry, and Rene, built their lives on the cut flower industry. Some of their children are now entering or returning to the nursery business and looking for new ways to draw a profit given the shifting business paradigm. “We want to make sure that we are well diversified and have a solid foundation for the next 30 to 35 years,” says David, who stresses that flower growing is still the foundation Westland’s business. Flower sales, which has injected millions of dollars into Carpinteria’s economy over the years, continuously becomes more difficult. Cheap competition was the first blow, but rocketing gas prices and healthcare costs have chipped away at remaining profits. Hydroponic vegetables may just be the ticket for Carpinteria’s greenhouse industry to remain competitive. ¢ SUMMER2012 59