Chief Joseph Byway - WY - Northern Rockies Rider

Chief Joseph Byway cruising, this one is superb.
Most will wisely take a
break at the top of the pass.
The wind, as you’d expect,
is always howling. There is
a large pullout, an overlook
and restrooms.
The descent southeast
toward Hwy. 120 also
features a series of
switchbacks as you navigate
down the side of the ridge.
In the spring or early
summer, bright green grass
contrasts brilliantly with the
amber rock protrusions that
remind one of southern
Utah landscapes.
The highway meanders
its way down to the
junction with Hwy. 120,
coursing through big, open
sagebrush hills.
At the junction, you
may head south to
Cody to continue your
adventures. Cody is a fun town heavy on the
tourism factor and is priced accordingly. Get
reservations if you plan on staying. Restaurant
offerings are numerous and span the quality
and price range.
WY
Sunlight Bridge spans a creek of
the same name. At the east end of
the bridge is a rest area favored by
riders ready for a break. Photo by Katie
Armstrong of NSBO
Top Tours 29
Don’t bet on
being seen.
Drive Aware!
30 Top Tours
http://www.dot.state.wy.us/home/dot_safety/motorcycle_safety_program.html
Big Horn Mountains -
WY
Cruising &
Playing
Tim and Mary Miller setting up for a turn. Just
above their heads can be seen more to come.
By Cole Boehler
It comes home again and again: we are so
very fortunate to live where we do with easy
access to some of the best motorcycling in the
Northern Rockies, the United States and the
world. Wyoming’s Big Horn Mountains riding
qualifies.
We headed there via the Beartooth
Shell Canyon gash on the west flank of the
Big Horns as seen from a few miles distant.
in the
BigatHorns
9,000 feet
Highway straddling Montana and Wyoming,
and the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, launching
from Red Lodge, Mont., situated at the foot of
the east ascent to 11,000-foot Beartooth Pass.
Forecasts called for cool weather, some
clouds, perhaps even some rain. It was
probably 45 to 50 degrees at noon at 11,000
feet on Beartooth Pass, but was somewhat
warmer at 8,000-foot Dead Indian Pass on the
Visit Greybull
Your gateway to a great getaway ~
Yellowstone & the Big Horn Mountains
www.greybull.com
lls
Shell Fa
Chimney Rock
Wildlife
Devil’s Kitchen
www.facebook.com/GreybullChamberofCommerce
Greybull Area
Chamber of Commerce
Area Visitor Info: 877-765-2100
Top Tours 31
WY - Big Horn Mountains
Shell. There, eating establishments are two;
lodging facilities, two, not counting dude
ranches. Accommodations are minimalist but
acceptable.
Scrubbing away
the chicken strips
Roadway, rocks and Shell Creek. You can do the
left/right tango through this section of canyon.
Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, though the wind
was howling there, as it always is.
We dropped down to Cody, Wyo. – 115
miles beyond Red Lodge – then took a brief
break before grinding out the last 68 miles to
Shell, Wyo., where we had booked cabins for
the night. Fighting a vicious crosswind had
my shoulders aching when we arrived at our
night’s lodging 306 miles from our launch.
Shell is a hamlet of 83, according to the
U.S. Census. It lies along Hwy. 14 about 15
miles east of Greybull.
Typically we favor communities with
a few more amenities and choices than
We hit the road by 8:30 a.m., greatly
anticipating the ride up Shell Canyon which
knifes into the western flank of the Big Horns.
The geology is magnificent – said to be 550
million-years-old Cambrian sandstone – and
incredibly rugged. The colors are brilliant,
more so in the spring or during a wet summer
when emerald greens contrast with amber
rock.
The serpentine asphalt that sluices
through the canyon bottom along Shell Creek
is even more stunning. The lower five-mile
section from the canyon mouth to 120-foottall Shell Falls, with its overlook, interpretive
center, small store, ample parking and
bathrooms, is among our all-time favorite
sport roads.
It’s all strung-together curves and some of
them quite tight, posted down to 20 mph. The
surface is high-friction and smooth, perfect
for inducing aggressive lean angles, grinding
Welcome to Lovell, Wyoming!
The Big Horns...Tougher than the Rest!
Brandin’ Iron Restaurant 4 Corners Bar & Grill
Don’t miss our steak!
Full bar available!
483 Shoshone Ave • 307-548-9370
#1 for Bikers!
195 West Main Street • 307-548-7493
Come join us for a free sample
262 E. Main St. ~ Lovell, WY
307-548-7083
www.queenbeegardens.com
We manufacture all of our products right here!
287 East Main
Lovell Wyoming
307-548-7552
www.lovellchamber.com
32 Top Tours
Big Horn Mountains foot pegs and
beveling the
edges of the boot
soles.
Drivers need
to be attentive,
but passengers
can appreciate
the magnificent
and colorful
rock formations
that have been
eroding for
millions of years.
This superb
and technical
section of
twisties would
be best run
early in the
day, mid-week.
Saturday traffic
is significant as
recreationists
abound, many
pulling horse or
ATV trailers and
with diesel-belching exhausts.
Once past the falls, ever climbing, the
turns continue but exhibit more radius which
encourages higher corner speeds and yields
more opportunity to take in the scenery. The
WY
roadbed even widens a little allowing for
more margin of error.
Another five miles and you attain the
Northern Big Horn Mountains
Motorcyclists Welcome!
• Restaurant
While riding the magnificent Northern Big Horn
• Full Service Bar
Mountains of WYOMING, experience a stay at
• Event/Family Packages
one of three mountain lodges.
• Condo Units
• Cabins
OPEN ALL YEAR!
• Motel Rooms
• Tent & RV Sites - Showers
• Fishing Licenses - ATV Rentals
• Indoor Pool - Hot Tub
Bear Lodge Resort
5600 US Hwy 14A
307-752-2444/5444/8444
bearlodgeresort.com
Arrowhead Lodge
6002 US Hwy 14
254-377-3387
arrowheadlodgewyoming.com
Elk View Inn
4622 W US Hwy 14
307-461-4168
elkviewinn.com
Top Tours 33
WY - Big Horn Mountains
open upper plateau
of the Big Horns at
about 9,000 feet. The
temperatures here
will easily be 20 or
30 degrees cooler
than on the basin
floor either east or
west of the range.
Expect
numerous short
straights punctuated
by the occasional
sweeper easily
negotiated at the
Scott and Rebecca Boehler
posted 65 mph.
enjoying the Big Horn twisties on
It’s all just mellow,
a beautiful and brisk morning.
relaxed alpine
cruising to Burgess
Junction, 25 miles
enjoyed good meals
beyond the falls.
and beverages on
There are several quality lodges and
several occasions.
resorts along Hwy. 14 traversing the Big
The log facility
Horns crest, many catering to the snowmobile with restaurant,
and ATV crowds, but there are always clots of saloon, gift shop and
bikes parked out front.
rooms has a rustic,
We’ve taken rest and refreshments breaks
yet unpretentious,
at several of these including Bear Lodge at
and comfortable
the Junction of Hwy. 14 and 14A, where we’ve
34 Top Tours
ambiance. We plan to stay there
sometime when route timing
permits.
This has been our plan in the
past, and was again this day: At
Burgess, turn east and run down
the east slope to little Dayton,
Wyo., to grab breakfast/lunch, then
simply turn around and head back
up to Burgess, then pick up Hwy.
14A to descend the west slope past
the Medicine Wheel Monument to
The grade here is probably 8 percent: gain eight
feet of elevation for every hundred feet forward.
Big Horn Mountains Looking off the east shoulder of the Big Horns
with the basin bottom a mile below and a
horizon like the ocean. Simply stunning.
Lovell, Wyo., 5,000 feet lower.
The east descent had just been somewhat
widened with a fresh asphalt mat applied.
We dialed it back a bit as some “marbles”
remained on the newly chip-sealed surface.
Occasionally tires sent twitchy warnings
through the handlebars and seat that traction
would be tenuous if things were pushed
much.
The grade on the east descent appears to
be 8 percent, maybe even 9. Rely on gears and
engine braking as much as discs and brake
pads to keep speeds under control. Traffic will
be present to some degree and may stymie a
serious sporting attack anyway.
Burgess Junction to Dayton is 26 miles
with perhaps 18 of it dramatic mountain
curves before being deposited on the flat
basin bottom. And you lose a mile of
elevation!
You’ll find modest but adequate facilities
in Dayton and Ranchester on the valley floor.
For those who want more “big city” luxuries,
Sheridan, Wyo., population 17,500, is just 16
miles further.
As always, it is more fun and confidenceinspiring heading up – as opposed to down
– the steep and gnarly grade. And it may be a
relief to escape the heat below, re-entering the
thin and cool atmosphere at 9,000 feet.
The cruise from Burgess to the west lip
of the alpine plateau along 14A is all gently
meandering highway of decent quality with
unchallenging sweepers throughout.
There is one particularly dramatic scenic
overlook where it seems a traveler can see the
Beartooth and Absaroka Mountains some 60
miles distant, and where the basin floor lies
5,000 feet below.
Traffic along 14A is perhaps one-third the
volume on 14. Ahhhh.
It is about 30 miles from Burgess to the
foot of the mountain range: 20 miles of that
is upper plateau and 10 miles is the descent,
a 10 percent grade with numerous tight
switchbacks. Talk about technical riding! You
must be on your toes as any serious mistake
will be catastrophic.
It is simply delightful riding. Big, heavy
cruisers will want to mosey, whereas the sport
bike crowd will flog the maximum out their
WY
machines.
There is always a several-mile section of
the lower descent that is exceptionally rough.
It is clear highway crews continue to work
to mitigate the effects of what is obviously a
constantly shifting subsurface. In a couple of
spots, so much asphalt has been added that
original guardrail posts are mere stubs.
The steep grade gradually subsides as the
highway approaches the sagebrush floor of
the basin. Rising temperatures keep pace with
falling elevations. Once off the mountain, it is
a 22-mile sprint into Lovell, Wyo., population
2,400, where bathrooms, snacks, beverages
and fuel will likely be desired. Or a rider can
continue 17 miles further to Powell.
Altogether, the leg from the east edge of
the Big Horns at Dayton, to Lovell in the west
is 84 miles.
Riders can pick up Hwy. 310 out of Lovell
and ride through tiny Crowley (speed trap!),
Deaver and Frannie, Wyo., before crossing
into Montana. We stayed on 310 through
Warren, Bridger and Fromberg, Mont., then
picked up Hwy. 212 at Rockvale to Joliet,
then little and pleasant Hwy. 421 back to
Columbus along I-90 to close our loop.
Yes, we live well. Add Hwys. 14 and 14A
of the Big Horn Mountains to your list of best
motorcycle routes. It’s been on mine for more
than 20 years and we’ve done these a half
dozen times.
Good people, exceptional curves by the
hundreds, quality roadway engineering and
surface, fabulous scenery, relatively light
traffic, highly remote and refreshingly cool
during the height of summer... These are the
ingredients that make for true world class
riding, and it’s right in our own backyard.
Our group, minus the author, on the west
shoulder of the range looking west toward the
Absaroka-Beartooth Mountains 60 miles distant.
Top Tours 35
WA - Okanagon/Kettle River Country
Okanagon, Kettle River Valleys
host roads that exceed our
riding criteria
Between Oroville and Chesaw, nothing but remote
curves, good pavement and no traffic, all with the
right tool: Ducati Multistrada “S” Touring.
By Cole Boehler
We are delighted to know that we haven’t
ridden it all in the Northern Rockies yet;
that there are new-to-us roads to meet and
become acquainted with, roads that will be
added to our let’s-do-it-again-realsoon list.
We arrived at Westside
Motorsports in Spokane to
picked up a Ducati Multistrada
“S” Touring demo bike, courtesy of
the dealership.
We had lashed together a fairly loose idea
of a route, ultimately leaving it open to some
improvisation, which was fortunate because
we didn’t clear Spokane until after 11 a.m.,
about an hour later than we had hoped.
We were intending to explore the upper
available on the backroads getting there,
or how much pure fun it would be pushing
a Multistrada along these serpentine
secondaries.
Wow! This stuff is world class!
In most cases, surface paving was
excellent, roadway engineering
was acceptable, traffic volumes
were exceptionally low and
the scenery was diverse and
magnificent. Now factor in the fine
quality of people residing in the region, pretty
little towns and villages, excellent dining and
lodging facilities with reasonable prices ...
We love it when the riding merit of each new
leg of a route exceeds the last. This was that
kind of day! Could it get any better?
36 Top Tours
Okanagon and Kettle River valleys, but we
had no idea such fine sport-touring was
Okanagon/Kettle River Country That’s a formula for a couple
of very memorable days of sporttouring.
It was already climbing
toward the upper 80s when
we headed west on Hwy. 2. At
Reardon, we headed north on
231, but 14 miles later near
Little Falls Dam, we cut west,
north, west and north to cross
the Spokane Indian Reservation,
through Wellpinit, then up to
Hwy. 25 just below Fruitland on
the Columbia River. This was
Little Falls/Wellpinit Road.
The asphalt out of Reardon
was pretty rough with some
traffic, straight stretches and
sweeping turns, but soon
enough we stopped for a chip
seal operation that signaled an
improvement once swept clean.
The reservation stretch from
Hwy. 231 to 25 was superb and
about 25 miles. It is all lonesome
curves with many marked down
to 30 and 35, with the general
limit at 50 mph. We wouldn’t
suggest this be run faster, but it
This is on “Old Highway 22” near Porcupine Bay
of the Spokane River. Fruitland was just a few
more miles of excellent riding up the road.
WA
could be done...easily.
“Bordering on technical,” our
notes read, and this is where we
began to give the Multistrada
a bit of rein, allowing it to lope
through the straights but applying
a light quirt through the turns.
After an excellent lunch at
the Hunters Inn and Tavern in
Hunters, astride Hwy. 25, and
several big glasses of ice water, we
were somewhat rejuvenated but
the temperature was nearing 100.
We set our sites on Kettle
Falls 40 miles to the north on
Hwy. 25, running the distance
along Roosevelt Lake which is
the dammed Columbia River.
The highway surface was in good
condition and featured numerous,
good, constant radius, sweeping
turns.
Up through Cedonia, Gifford
and Rice and into Kettle Falls, our
bodily fluids were cooking away
through our hides. We topped up
the Multistrada’s tank in Kettle
Falls, then guzzled a liter of water
and another of Powerade, trying
At the foot of the
Flowery Trail!
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Inquire about discounts available from
local businesses when you present
your Nordlig room key!
Nordlig Motel
www.nordlig.com
509-935-6704 • [email protected]
101 W. Grant Ave., Chewelah, WA
Top Tours 37
WA - Okanagon/Kettle River Country
to top up our own
fluids.
We decided
Republic, just 43
miles further west,
was going to be the
end of the line that
day.
And, oh, did
we enjoy topping
Sherman Pass on
the way west to
Republic! Only 78
degrees at 5,575
feet!
Hwy. 20 to
Republic is all
well engineered
constant-radius
turns, some marked
down to 30 mph
and easy to run at
suggested speeds
plus 20. It was a
pure delight and a
very fine end to a
pretty good day.
All motels
had motorcycle
contingents filling
their parking lots.
Cleaned up and
in lightweight
lounging clothes,
we hiked just a
couple of blocks to
Coming up Hwy. 25 toward Hunters
along the Columbia River-Roosevelt Lake.
A picture says more than words – fun!
38 Top Tours
the Republic Brewery; we have
our priorities. We then opted for
some grocery deli sandwiches
and headed back to the room.
The next morning, we
showered, packed and geared. At
6:45 we were ready to roll.
We’d been eyeing a road from
Oroville to Curlew. We headed
east out of Republic toward
Tonasket along Hwy. 20, 41 miles
of pure riding pleasure! The
4,310-foot Wauconda Summit
was blessedly cool, almost cold!
The pavement was excellent
and the road even had ample
shoulders, all lined with heavy
timber. There was virtually no
traffic...and no critters. We had
the sun at our backs so we could
easily see through the dozens of
curves.
We fueled at Tonasket before
crossing the Okanagon River
to the west, then taking the old secondary
north along the west bank of the river to near
Ellisforde.
After just a few miles, we hooked west
toward Loomis on the Loomis-Oroville Road
and past Whitestone and Spectacle Lakes,
then north toward Nighthawk to run along
the pretty Similkameen River and Palmer
Lake to within just a couple of miles of the
Canadian border. Then it was east past Enloe
Dam to Oroville, situated along Hwy. 97 back
in the Okanagon.
This is rich fruit country and pear and
apple orchards and irrigated fields of alfalfa
were everywhere...and so were the forest rats
(deer).
The pavement was narrow and fairly
rough but the Multistrada made the ride feel
like a stroll through the park: what bumps?
It was all tight curves, many posted down
to 25 and 30. Traffic was light, scenery was
outstanding and the riding was altogether
wonderful as we dropped back down into the
Okanagon Valley.
Okanagon/Kettle River Country -
Ducati Multistrada
near the shore of
Palmer Lake between
Loomis and Nighthawk.
There pavement wasn’t
exactly smooth but
the route, including
scenery, was superb.
We love it when the riding merit of each
new leg of a route exceeds the last. This was
that kind of day! Could it get any better?
Yes.
At Oroville, we found Cherry Street which
delivered us to Chesaw Road and eastward 20
miles to the little village of Chesaw, passing by
Hee Hee Mountain (love the name). My notes
on this stretch read: “Wonderful; awesome!
All curves. Pavement rough, engineering
negligible. Almost zero traffic. Fun, fun, fun!”
From Chesaw we pushed southeast on
Chesaw Road – more of the same fabulous
country lanes – to Toroda Creek Road, then
West Kettle River Road to Curlew: a distance
of 33 miles. West Kettle was a hoot, following
the west fork of that great river and down into
Curlew.
We found Boulder Creek Road, which
becomes Deer Creek Road as you travel
eastward out of Curlew toward Hwy. 391 –
about 20 miles – running much of it along
the north fork of Boulder Creek. Folks, it just
doesn’t get any better! All the usual attributes
of superb riding were present.
It was another 20 miles south on Hwy. 395
to Kettle Falls. This was good running on a
modern highway, smooth and with shoulders.
Traffic remained light but certainly heavier
than we’d experienced the previous four
hours.
We cut east to Colville, then dropped
down to Chewelah on 395 following the
Colville River. Traffic gained some volume but
the ride was quite pleasant and the scenery
was excellent.
Five miles below Chewelah we picked
up Hwy. 231 south to Springdale and Ford,
WA
then to Long Lake Dam. The traffic dissipated
once again while the road surface remained
of quality as we rode the sweeping turns. The
country was a mix of timber and cultivated
fields. All very enjoyable.
Just below the dam we located West Long
Lake Road, then navigated a series of country
roads back down to Hwy. 2 east of Reardon,
closing our figure-eight loops.
We were amazed at the quality of the
country lanes just outside the Spokane metro
area: plenty of turns, good surface, light
traffic, picturesque rolling fields of ripe grain,
pretty and quaint little farmsteads.
We hit Westside Motorsports to
reluctantly return this great little Ducati backroad ripper. We quickly transferred our cargo
to our S-T, then jumped on I-90 east. We had
two hours more riding before we could call it
quits for the day.
We are delighted to know that there are
many more of these remote but paved county
roads that can take good bikes into the
Washington hinterlands. They simply need to
be explored. We look forward to that.
To anyone else within range of the upper
Okanagon and Kettle River Valleys, by all
means, check it out! We’re glad we did and
we’ll be back, next time with friends in tow.
“This 30 miles of the Flowery Trail, east of Chewelah, were the best we
rode in five days and 1,800 miles! Just superb!”
~ Northern Rockies Rider
Experience this yourself!
www.chewelah.org
214 E. Main Street
Chewelah, WA 99109
509-935-8595
[email protected]
Top Tours 39
Washington state parks...
the journey & the destination!
Mt. St. Helens Visitor Center
Sun Lakes-Dry Falls State Park
www.parks.wa.gov
Information Center:
(360) 902-8844
Deception Pass State Park
Photo by Chris Teren of terenphotography.com
40 Top Tours
Beacon Rock State Park
Upper Columbia Country -
WA
Northeast Washington’s Upper Columbia Country
Sport-touring five valleys
and four mountain ranges
Built 70 years ago, the Grand Coulee Dam engineering is still
exceedingly impressive. Unfortunately, it seems as a nation
we are no longer capable of such grand dreaming or doing.
By Cole Boehler
Once you leave the urban centers of
Washington, mostly strewn along the coast,
the rural economy is largely agricultural
and resource extraction-based, lightly
populated rural river valleys with small
towns strung along the water courses,
substantial and rugged mountain ranges
between the valleys where timber and
wild game is plentiful, nicely
engineered and
paved roadways
all through
this remote
country, and
good, down-toearth people.
And that certainly includes the
north central and northeastern region: the
mighty Columbia, the Sanpoil, the Colville
and Pend Oreille valleys.
reception in Seattle which lasted late into
the evening, we nevertheless were rolling
out of the metropolis by 7:20.
We coffeed at Monroe, then headed
east on Hwy. 2 along the Skykomish River
toward 4,061-foot Stevens Pass, chilly
on this Sept. 2 Sunday. Traffic was light,
scenery was excellent and the paving was
first-rate.
Once we gained Hwy. 2, we were making
good time. We dropped
down out of the
Wenatchee
National
Forest to
Wenatchee at
about 11 a.m., 126
miles from our launch.
We skirted the city situated along the banks
of the Columbia by catching Alternative
Hwy. 97 north along the river to Chelan, a
fetchingly pretty little resort town of 4,000
nestled along the shore of Lake Chelan
(pronounced “sha-lan”), which drains into
the Chelan River.
Savor the relaxation because after
Grand Coulee things get far more
interesting and challenging.
Getting there is good
After attending a nephew’s wedding and
Top Tours 41
WA - Upper Columbia Country
Working eastward, the riding and roadways progressively
improve ... if you’re after remote riding with plenty of curves.
What we came for
We found the bridge across the Chelan
River southeast of town using State Route
150 (Chelan Falls Road), then immediately
hooked a left to the north on McNeil Canyon
Road. It was quickly clear we had made a
good decision as we climbed out of the valley
and up through the bluffs on a snakey piece
of tarmac that carried practically no other
traffic.
Soon we were into vast, rolling farmlands,
mostly wheat stubble in this late season. It was
marvelous sailing with little attention paid to
speed limits as vistas were distant and there
was no competing traffic. The pavement was
okay, smooth and wide enough but with little
striping and signage – simply a paved farmto-market road.
North, east, south, east, north and east
again we cruised until we picked up the West
Fork of Foster Creek along Bridgeport Hill
Road. It heads north to its junction with Hwy.
17 near Chief Joseph Dam and Bridgeport,
both on the Columbia.
Just south of the dam we turned right
(east) onto Hwy. 17 and followed East Foster
Creek 16 miles, where 17 joins Hwy. 174,
then 20 miles more to Grand Coulee (the
town and the dam). We were then back at the
Columbia.
The stretch of 174 we rode to Grand
Coulee is for relaxed cruising through big,
rolling hills. The pavement and roadway
engineering is excellent, just as it is in 90
percent of the state. It is a good way to get to
the mountain twisties we were seeking and
relishing. Savor the relaxation because after
Grand Coulee things get far more interesting
and challenging.
Grand Coulee Dam is ...
damned grand!
Grand Coulee Dam is said to be the largest
electricity production facility in the U.S. and
is one of the largest concrete structures in
the world, begun in 1933 and completed in
1942. To say the dam is “impressive” is to be
guilty of gross understatement. Take the time
42 Top Tours
Upper Columbia Country -
to check it out.
There is said to
A view of the Columbia which, since it has been dammed
be a nightly laser
in several places, is often more lake than river.
light show played
at the dam. Must
be incredible!
There are
three little burgs
strung together
here: Coulee
Dam, Grand
Coulee and
Electric City.
We found the
folks here to be
exceptionally
open and
warm, and their
businesses reflect
the owners’
You leave
characters.
the Columbia
We rode north out of Coulee on Hwy. 155,
River at Elmer
the Coulee Corridor Scenic Byway, to just
City, cross over
past Elmer City where we located Peter Dan
the hump and
Road to the east. Ahh, now this is what it is all
drop into the
about...
Sanpoil River
Valley, then over
Five valleys, four ranges
the next range
And a word about the topography: From
to the east and
Elmer City to our destination on the Pend
descend to the
Oreille River, we crossed four distinct ranges, Columbia once
though some are apparently sub-ranges of the more (actually
Kettle River Mountains and, to the east, the
Roosevelt Lake,
Selkirks.
here). This is
WA
part of the Kettle River Range.
At Inchelium it’s across the water on a
free ferry and continuing eastward, over
the top and down into the Colville River
Valley at Blue Creek (or Addy). You’re now
traversing the Selkirk Range. Just one more
hump: south of Blue Creek at Chewelah you
start ascending once more, top the summit
and come down into the Pend Oreille River
Valley.
Okay, got it? Five valleys and four
mountain hops, all within roughly 140 miles
of remote and rural country! That is exactly
the kind of route that represents maximum
appeal by our standards.
Crossing the Columbia from Inchelium to Gifford
on the free ferry. Author’s bike and wife, Marilyn.
Top Tours 43
WA - Upper Columbia Country
Elmer City to
the Sanpoil River
Back at Elmer City, Peter Dan Road
eventually becomes Manilla Creek Road as it
runs over the summit and down the east side
to the Sanpoil River and north/south Hwy.
21 – about 20 miles total. Though speed limits
are very conservative, this leg was just fun,
fun, fun!
Pretty, rolling farm country between Addy and
Chewelah produces turns and superb spirited cruising.
Bridge Creek Road
to Inchelium
At the Sanpoil, we rode north about 20
miles on Hwy. 21 past Keller and to Bridge
From Gifford to Addy on the (of course) Gifford-Addy
Road. These road signs are easy to translate: Yeehaw!
Creek Road, which then runs east over the
mountains about 30 miles to Inchelium.
This one is excellent. Beautiful pavement
at the bottom and all the way to near the top,
then rough two or three miles, then first rate
again, not as wide but smooth. On the ascent
there is three miles of brand new asphalt.
Speeds are posted at 50 mph on the ascent
and descent and at 35 mph for the few miles
over the summit. Some turns were marked
down to 25 mph but my notes indicate we
were getting away with that plus-20. We
encountered only five or six vehicles along
this 30 miles. It wasn’t “technical” but was
“challenging” and yielded a high fun quotient.
Gifford Ferry to Hwy. 395
At Inchelium, population 409, we hustled
down to the free Gifford Ferry, which runs
every half-hour. After disembarkation on
the Columbia’s east shore, we located the
Addy Gifford Road and started up the flank
of another small range, this time part of the
Selkirk Mountains.
The first big ascent was rewarding with a
lot of good, tight turns. Climbing to the top
we found many small, picturesque farms –
good hay country – and many good sweepers.
Speed limits, as before, were posted at 50 mph
44 Top Tours
up and down, 35
over the summit.
We encountered
one deer which
slowed us down a
little. The pavement
is quite good but
narrow with many
well engineered, constant-radius turns. Traffic
was nil until we reached little Addy along
Hwy 395.
Yup, this piece was just what we require
to enjoy a real hoot strafing remote mountain
tarmac.
From Addy, it was just 10 miles south to
Chewelah.
Upper Columbia Country -
Chewelah to Usk,
maybe the best
Three mountain ranges, four valleys ... and
one more of each to go.
We picked up the Flowery Trail (I just
love that name) to the east right at Chewelah.
It takes a rider up to the top with its summit
elevation of 5,774 feet.
This 30 miles of the Flowery Trail were the
best we rode in five days and 1,800 miles! Just
superb!
This is “30 miles of awesome!” Climb,
summit, descend; all curves – and good
curves – with very few straights. We ran them
a tad over the posted limits (ahem) with some
curves marked at 35. Wow! Great pavement
and some brand new, tiny shoulders, all very
smooth. And this is one pretty route.
As the sun dropped and the sky dimmed,
we cut east through the little town of Usk,
crossed the Pend Oreille River and headed
north along the east shore on Le Clerk Road.
We were staying with friends and barbecue
chicken and ribs awaited. We could almost
smell them 18 miles away.
The perfect end...
We knew the roadside woods to be filthy
WA
with deer and we were having to rely on
the headlight as we approached our friends’
driveway. I was relieved when we pulled in,
then spotted the smoking grill and a blazing
fire pit with chairs pulled around.
Valleys, mountains, great remote roads,
superb riding, no incidents ... then cocktails,
barbecue and good friends... It’s a cliche, but
it was indeed “the perfect end to a perfect
day.”
Must do again!
It just doesn’t get any better! We’re already
planning to do the Flowery Trail again!
Don’t you love it when the very best is
saved for last? Woohoo!
It was getting late and we’d been
riding for 10 hours and still had two
to go. The Flowery Trail was our
favorite run of the day: mostly good
pavement, all turns, no traffic.
Top Tours 45
What’s your definition of...
“a perfect ride”
Stunning mountain, forest, river
and lake scenery? Remote, peaceful riding with few cages?
Good asphalt with tons of turns? Roadways designed by engineers
who knew what they were doing? Small communities with all the
amenities? Businesses with character run by characters? Affordability?
We have it all!
Ahhhh...the Pend Oreille!
Northeast Washington’s finest motorcycling!
• Metaline Falls • Metaline • Ione • Tiger • Cusick • Usk • Newport
Please be our guests. Come ride the Pend Oreille Country. Bring your
friends. You’ll come back again and again. It just doesn’t get any better!
Sponsored by the Pend Oreille River Tourism Alliance whose purpose is to create a responsible tourism economy
in the Pend Oreille River Community in ways sensitive to the culture, heritage and environment of the region.
46 Top Tours
www.porta-us.com • 509.447.5286
Upper Columbia Country -
WA
Wonderful Pend Oreille
east shore on Le Clerc Road
Le Clerc Road is characterized by a good, high-friction surface, dozens of wellengineered curves, dense timber lining the road, prolific wildlife, big mountain and
water vistas, and relatively light traffic that is heavier on weekends. Seek this one out!
The first time ...
The first time you kissed, the first time
you heard that song, the first time you rode a
motorcycle ...
All these “firsts” leave an indelible imprint
deep in the synapses of the brain’s memory
files.
The first time you encounter
an especially inspiring stretch of
motorcycle asphalt is like that, too.
I remember well the first time we
cruised the Le Clerc Road south along
the east shore of the picturesque Pend
Oreille River from Ione to Newport. It
was 1990. Since then we’ve ridden it a
half dozen times more.
At Ione, which is on the west side
of the Pend Oreille on Hwy. 31, just a
mile south of town is a left turn to the
east which takes a rider to a bridge
spanning the river just upstream of
the Box Canyon Dam. Cross and hang
a right, south, and you’re on Le Clerc
Road North which will take you a
little over 50 miles to Newport.
Be warned, the speed limit is set
at just 50 mph. Most riders will be
tempted to go faster ... but beware!
The pavement is smooth with
a coarse chip seal that provides
maximum grip. Turns – and there
are many of them of various radiuses
– are well engineered and constantradius: assess the geometry, pick
your line, select your speed, hit the
entrance right and rail through with
no steering corrections. Joyful!
There are a couple of tight esses
at creek crossings that warrant some
brakes and a downshift.
Heavy timber can picket both
sides of the road hiding wily and
sometimes spooky whitetails. This is wild
and rugged country. Elk, bears and lions, and
probably wolves, also inhabit it. Keep your
eyes peeled and brakes covered. Let your
passenger do the scenery gawking.
And the panoramas are splendid. There’s
nothing like ample water, big trees, bigger
mountains, twisting tarmac and light traffic
(can be moderately heavy on weekends) to
put your spirit in a good place.
About 35 miles south of Ione, Le Clerc
Road crosses east-west Kings Lake Road,
which itself crosses the Pend Oreille and runs
into little Usk on the river’s west side. Food
and fuel are available there. Proceed
straight ahead at the stop sign and
you’re now on Le Clerc Road South.
It’s just 17 miles or so into Old Town/
Newport...
... But it’s 17 more excellent miles
of good surface, numerous curves,
timber, hayfields and river scenery.
We’ve usually experienced more local
traffic here on Le Clerc South compared
to Le Clerc North, and there are more
residences, but this is still superb
cruising.
At Hwy. 2, take a right, west, across
the bridge over the river, and within two
blocks you’re back into Washington. The
state line forms the division between
Newport, Wash., and Oldtown, Idaho.
The towns are a little odd to
navigate, but they offer everything
any rider needs including lodging,
meals, saloons and entertainment,
and at decent prices. We’ve personally
experienced it all with complete
satisfaction.
Here a touring rider can head
east on Hwy. 2 to Priest River and
Sandpoint, Idaho, or select Hwy. 2
southwest, then south into Spokane,
just 42 miles distant. Expect substantial
traffic on Hwy. 2 east or south.
If you’re in extreme northeast
Washington and want an altogether fine
motorcycle experience, make a note:
Ride the Le Clerc Road! It has it all!
Top Tours 47
WA - Palouse Country
Group of touring riders enjoying the Palouse
country Labor Day weekend 2013.
Byway, and the pieces of the byway I
have ridden exhibit superb pavement
and roadway engineering designed with
good shoulders and properly banked and
numerous turns, all with just moderate
traffic.
However, I seek the real back roads
so pick the skinniest roads indicated on
the map.
Here’s a proven route we have ridden:
Approach from the east from Idaho’s
Hwy. 95 north of Moscow. Pick up
little Hwy. 60 west into Tekoa, Wash.
(pronounced like “Tee-ko”) astride Hwy.
27. There will be no competition for
space on the tarmac.
From there a visit to Steptoe Butte is
highly recommended. Head southeast
12 miles on Hwy. 27 to Oakesdale. The
asphalt is fresh and abrasive, there are no
shoulders, many turns are marked down
to 35-45 and could be run at near twice
that.
Barely a mile out of Oakesdale, look
for Hume Road to Steptoe Butte. It was
perhaps 10 miles southwest where I saw
the signs to Steptoe Butte State Park. The
ancient volcano cone had been visible
Riding the Palouse
By Cole Boehler
The first time I laid eyes on Washington’s
“Palouse Country” I marveled at the potential
motorcycle perfection of the roadways that
matched the rolling topography: up and down
and side-to-side all at the same time.
The Palouse... Imagine: fresh, high-friction
but narrow pavement, some of it lumpy but
not enough to detract significantly from ride
quality; unending curves of many radii but all
constant; rapid rollercoaster elevation changes
combined with the curves; magnificent hilly
landscapes of timber and cultivated fields that
resemble the rolling ocean with exceptionally
distant horizons... And you have it all to
yourself!
That’s the motorcycling essence of The
Palouse. What extraordinary riding!
The area does feature a designated Scenic
48 Top Tours
“It’s all about the curves” and The Palouse is nothing
but curves...with very good tarmac and no traffic.
Palouse Country -
WA
for awhile. This geological feature
dominates the whole region of
Whitman County.
The beat up little blacktop oneand-a-half-lane park trail crossed a
little prairie, then began a spiraling
ascent to the summit – about five
minutes. Oh my! The view can hardly
be overstated. Just breathtaking, even
inducing a little vertigo. It seemed the
horizons were 25 miles away in every
direction.
We spiraled back down, then
briefly picked up Hwy. 195 a bit north
to the town of Steptoe. There are very
few businesses there. Locate Hwy. 23
angling northwest toward St. John. It
is posted at 55 mph but could be run
faster safely. It features a few turns
with way over-stated corner speeds.
The pavement is high-friction, a little
choppy, just another vehicle every
two or three minutes...
St. John businesses have fared
better than in some small Palouse
villages. It has a couple of eateries, a
tavern, C-store, auto parts, grocery,
pharmacy and clinic, a B& B and
micro-motel, salons, a bank and
more.
Out of St. John, pick up the
Lancaster Road angling southwest to
an intersection about 20 miles later
with the Endicott West Road and the
Fabulous vista to the north from Steptoe Butte summit
with the horizons 25 miles distant in every direction.
Top Tours 49
50 Top Tours
Palouse Country -
WA
The route we rode started out fine
and kept getting better and better.
Our family of
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hotels welcomes you
• Clean rooms, comfortable beds
• Wash stations available and
complimentary microfiber
towels for each rider
• Complimentary full hot
breakfast
• Each guest room includes a
microwave, fridge, coffee
maker, and flat screen TV
• Pool area
• Restaurant options within
walking distance and/or
delivery available
• Motorcycle rates
• 24 hour desk service
Benge Winona Road to the west.
This is remote riding with almost zero
traffic, which goes in the “plus” column.
The asphalt surface is that coarse, very
black mix so common on rural Washington
roadways. It yields tremendous confidence in
traction but probably eats tires at a prodigious
clip. Some riders may be tempted to take
Between Pullman and Palouse. A camera with its single lens can
never reveal what a human’s binocular vision does, but imagine...
Enjoy the rolling hills
of the Palouse?
Wheatland Inn
701 N Main St, Colfax WA
877-397-0397
Prefer the wide open roads of
wine country?
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1849 Quail Lane, Sunnyside WA
800-915-6070
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259 Merlot Drive, Prosser WA
800-688-2192
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2408 Rudkin Road, Yakima WA
800-348-9701
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Each Best Western branded hotel
is independently owned and operated.
Top Tours 51
WA - Palouse Country
corners marked at 35 at an indicated 65 mph.
This stretch, though, appears to have
a new asphalt mat laid over a deteriorated
base. The subsurface is quite choppy – not
harsh but suspensions will get a continuous
and vigorous workout, which will detract
marginally from cornering fun.
There’s not much at Benge besides a few
residences and a Post Office.
Off to the west then, head for Washtucna,
12 miles further, all still very remote,
extremely light traffic, continuous elevation
changes and curves and smoother going. You
just can’t get enough of this type of superb
riding.
At Washtucna pick up Hwy. 26 to the east
heading for little Hooper and the beginning of
the actual designated Palouse Scenic Byway.
There is a little segue off Hwy. 27 about
eight miles east of Washtucna that takes you
through Hooper and across the Palouse River
and back to 27. It’s worth the diversion.
Eastward about a dozen miles leave
Hwy. 27, which is ample and modern but
still entertaining for the curves and hills,
and wheel up Airport Road into LaCrosse,
population 325 with a surprisingly lively little
business district.
Out of LaCrosse, head north on Winona
South Road about 10 miles before picking up
the Endicott West Road, then heading east a
dozen miles into Endicott. The little burg of
under 300 now has just one store.
These are narrow roads with more of
that rollercoaster feel, somewhat lumpy
subsurface, coarse but smooth asphalt,
corners marked at 35 and easily taken at 65
mph. Traffic is almost nonexistent though
farming activity may be intensive.
Departing Endicott to the east, it is 10
miles before rejoining the mother byway,
Hwy. 26, a few miles west of Colfax. This
town’s economy is clearly linked to agriculture
and folks appear to be working hard to
prosper. It is said the topsoil is 100 feet deep!
Colfax is the Whitman County seat
and boasts a population just under 3,000,
a veritable metropolis compared the tiny
villages along this route.
ing, British Columbia
, Idaho, Montana, Wyom
Serving Washington
and Alberta
Steptoe Butte is Whitman County’s dominant
topographical feature and is worth exploring
There is lodging, restaurants and all
else a touring rider would need ... except a
motorcycle shop.
After a monumental day of incredible
riding like this, it is always a delight to
discover ... it can get even better!
Run from Colfax up Hwy. 272 to the town
of Palouse, before heading down Hwy. 27 to
a “cosmopolitan” destination in Pullman, a
university city.
Highlight Hwy. 272 on your maps! This
was the best 18-mile segment of the day!
Colfax to Palouse: more, bigger hills, road
slicing this way and that, up and down and
over and around. Very few corners marked;
you’re on your own! Corners may surprise so
stay on your toes! The surface is high-friction
and could be run at 60-65, taking turns at
the same, low speed limit notwithstanding.
Don’t Miss a Single Issue...
FREE
Take one home!
Northern Rockies Rider
Volume 1, Number 4
“Your Northern Rocky
ty”
Mountain Riding Authori
-3250
@qwestoffice.net • 406-498
s Publication • contcom
ntal Communication
• July, 2012 • A Contine
try Figure 8
Yaak and Kootenai Coun
The Best Loops
in Montana?
Canada. It is wild and remote
and sparsely populated with
is
never much traffic. Scenery
and
and
“The best laid plans of mice
stunning: rivers and lakes
trees
men often go awry.”
big mountains with big
Who
Poet Robert Burns was right.
cedars, indicative
including
find
to
tour
a
hasn’t carefully planned
of the relatively high amounts
hours or a
the plan on the rocks within
of moisture this high country
day?
receives.
wife
Such was the case when
Elevations vary from the
to ride one of
feet
Marilyn and I headed out
state’s lowest point (1,880
perhaps
–
our favorite Montana routes
at Troy) to well over a mile
the favorite.
hundreds high.
We have been visiting with
Wildlife thrives where
Rockies
best-ofBoth
of riders from the Northern
people.
Excellent roads add to this
few
are
we are based there
from the people and traffic.
are
region. When we mention
It’s all about getting away
508.
whitetail and mule deer
Troy and Yaak on Hwy.
“Oh yes,
and
in Montana, most observe:
Montana experience. Between
present in large numbers
to) the
bears
for any distant.
I’ve ridden (or always wanted
we have seen numerous
But these routes are suitable
saying about the Yaak
in Glacier
a
have
Road
We
-The-Sun
suppose
or
oneGoing-To
We would
tone Park” and moose.
style of two-wheeled machine,
that is meant to be
were
Park,” or substitute “Yellows
and easier on and Kootenai
wolves are present and probably the
some truth: “If
two-up; just take it slower
.”
humorous, but contains
here, as in
or the “Beartooth Highway
never totally wiped out
igger and heavier varieties.
ose
in them parts, the
By Cole Boehler
52 Top Tours
There may be no chicken strips left on your
tire edges.
The last stretch of my epic Palouse tour
ran a dozen miles south on Hwy. 27 to
Pullman, 30,000 population and home of
the Washington State University Cougars.
The roadway was wider, smoother and built
to handle more traffic, which it was, mostly
heading north just after quitting time.
I found reasonable lodging (under $70)
and a wide array of ethnic and American
restaurants along the Hwy. 27 strip. The town
has everything you would expect, including
all the funky businesses associated with
college towns, but just one motorcycle shop.
It is highly recommend that motorcyclists
go explore the unsurpassed riding to be found
in The Palouse Country. If you’ve done it
before, go back and do it again! We will!
Subscribe Today!
If you would like direct home mail delivery, send your name, mailing
address, telephone number, e-mail address and $25 to:
Northern Rockies Rider, 914 Holmes Ave., Butte, MT 59701, or contact
us at <[email protected]>. Canadian Subscriptions are $50.
Palouse Country -
WA
Ride the Picture Perfect Palouse!
With antiquing, wineries & breweries, and fabulous
photo opportunities, driving the curving roads of
Eastern Washington is a snap!
For your free map and itinerary call or visit:
palousescenicbyway.com
1-800-365-6948
Top Tours 53
SD - Black Hills/Needles Highway
Wyoming group rode the Black Hills in late
September for the fall colors and the curves.
The perfect combo:
Needles Highway with fall foliage
By Dottie Rankin
How about a “fall color ride” on the best
motorcycle roads in the Black Hills of South
Dakota?
Bundle up for the ride if chilly
temperatures are forecast.
We launch east out of Gillette, Wyo.,
on Hwy. 16 toward our first destination,
Newcastle. This is essentially straight and flat
cruising, allowing riders to get their heads in
tune with the machines, the road, the country
Pounding out the straight miles of
Wyoming en route to the Hills.
Come as a
stranger,
leave as a
friend.
Legendary Back Porch and B&B Bar
Full Service Bar and Grill
Check Website for Live Entertainment Schedule
www.backporchbar.net • 605-642-2134
www.facebook.com/bb.backporch
703 Main Street, Spearfish, SD
54 Top Tours
Black Hills/Needles Highway -
SD
and the ride. Anticipate the good riding that
lies just ahead in the Black Hills.
Leaving Newcastle the riding quickly gets
more interesting and the adrenaline begins to
flow a bit. More rider focus is called for.
From a distance the hills appear black
because they are cloaked with dense, dark
pine trees. The Native American Lakota
name, “Paha Sapa,” is a direct translation of
“black hills.”
The Lokota have considered the Hills
to be sacred for thousands of years, which
explains why they fought bitterly and died by
the thousands to protect this land. Today the
indigenous people struggle but persevere on
The Standing Rock, Pine Ridge and Rosebud
reservations in western South Dakota.
Let the fun begin!
Hwy. 16 crosses the South Dakota stateline just east of Newcastle and is adorned
with tall pines and rocky outcroppings. The
roadway soon becomes serpentine, sidewinding and snaking its way through the
rugged Black Hills, passing by Hell Canyon
and Jewel Cave National Monument.
This is motorcycling at its finest and most
thrilling!
Utmost attention is called for when riding
through the Hell Canyon and Jewel Cave area.
Anyone else relish those
10 mph 180-degree
switchbacks?
Though the road surface is in generally good
condition, it does narrow considerably and
the shoulders are practically nonexistent. It is
twisty and curvy and loads of fun but you do
have to stay on your riding game.
Hell Canyon is 18 miles west of Custer, So.
Dak., and offers two main recreational areas,
West Teepee Canyon and Sawmill Spring
(Forest Service Road 456).
A large fire devastated the Tepee Canyon
and surrounding areas in about 2000 but new
growth is abundant. The area is rugged and
beautiful and no matter your ride, you won’t
be sorry you came.
Jewel Cave National Monument is also
a worthwhile stop if you have the time. It is
the third longest cave in the world with 163
miles of mapped and surveyed passages plus
another 671 feet that was discovered just this
past year. It is located approximately 13 miles
Top Tours 55
SD - Black Hills/Needles Highway
Many make
Custer their
Black Hills
home-base
Try not to drag the foot pegs or
floorboards when tipping it into turns.
west of Custer.
From Jewel Cave stay on Hwy. 16 to
Custer. Get ready for the deservedly famous
Needles Highway.
This route packs more scenery and thrills
per mile than any other road I have ridden,
and I have ridden the Beartooth Highway!
The granite “needles.” One of the “natural
wonders of the world”? We think so.
56 Top Tours
If you love good motorcycle riding – though
challenging – on well maintained pavement,
you will appreciate all of the Black Hills.
There are incredible switchbacks, gnarly
twisties and some tunnels thrown in, all
amidst small mountains and gorgeous,
sweeping green valleys. The turns can be
If you are talking destinations, it
doesn’t get much better than Custer, So.
Dak.
Established in 1875, Custer is the
oldest city in the Black Hills and is
surrounded by thick ponderosa pine
forests and granite stone outcroppings.
“Edge of Adventure” indeed! Located
42 miles southwest of Rapid City, Custer
is smack dab in the heart of the Black
Hills National Forest.
Attractions abound within easy
distance of Custer: Crazy Horse
Memorial, Custer State Park, Mount
Rushmore National Memorial, Black Hills
National Forest, Devils Tower National
Monument, Badlands National Park,
Wind Cave National Park and Jewel Cave
National Monument, just to name a few.
There is an abundance of lodging that
fits every budget, dining for every palette
and enough unique shops to satisfy any
shopping enthusiast.
If it is outdoor hiking or biking you
are looking for, look no further than the
George S. Mickelson Trail. This trail was
completed in 1998 and is 109 miles
long, traversing the Black Hills.
Visitors enjoy three city parks, ball
fields, volleyball and tennis courts,
horseshoe pits, a swimming pool, ninehole public golf course and a skateboard
park.
Custer is the jumping-off point
for many adventures including (maybe
especially!) motorcycling, but also
fishing and hunting, boating, rock
climbing, mountain biking, snowmobiling,
horseback riding, hiking and wildlife
viewing.
You pack activities, attractions,
history, museums, restaurants and
shopping all in one little dynamo of a
town and you come up with Custer!