indonesia (lesser sundas) rep 09
Transcription
indonesia (lesser sundas) rep 09
THE LESSER SUNDAS 25 AUGUST – 13 SEPTEMBER 2009 TOUR REPORT LEADER: CRAIG ROBSON On the sixth Birdquest to the Lesser Sundas, a very keen group of birders found a record 265 species, including all but one of the endemics currently available on this tour. All of the west Lesser Sunda endemics were seen, with the exception of Wallace’s Scops-owl, which was unfortunately only heard this year. The bird of the tour was the fantastic Flores Hawk-eagle, which we scoped for more than half an hour. In second place was the very tricky Flores Scops-owl which was seen perched in full view for the first time on the tour, and by all participants. It would actually be easier to list the tiny number of diamond birds that we could not locate on this tour, than it would be to mention all of the ones that we did find. However, other memorable avian highlights included Sumba Buttonquail, prolonged scope views of Timor Black Pigeon, Barred-necked Cuckoo-dove, Pink-headed Imperial Pigeon, and Flores Green-pigeon, closer views than normal of Citron-crested Cockatoo, perched Wallace’s Hanging-parrots, good spotlight views of Sumba, Little Sumba and Streaked Boobooks, Sumba Hornbill, excellent perched views of both forms of Elegant Pitta, Chestnut-backed and Orange-sided Thrushes, Sumba Red-headed Honeyeater, and Timor Sparrow. Javan Kingfisher, Blackwinged Myna and Bar-winged Prinia were unexpected bonuses on Bali. Apart from some unseasonal rain at Kisol, that cost us a nights’ owling, the weather was hot and sunny as usual, with the typically occasional downpours and periodic low cloud in the Flores highlands. Once again, there was a strong wind for much of the day at the higher levels of Gunung Mutis on Timor, though it was easy enough birding in sheltered areas. As is customary now, the birding began in the Benoa Harbour area on Bali. It was high tide when we arrived, but this actually helped us find two Javan Plovers very quickly, as their habitat had become more restricted. Several Little Pied Cormorants and a couple of Gull-billed Terns kept us occupied. It wasn’t long before the tide began to recede and the mudflats emerged, bringing us a good variety of waders, including Far Eastern Curlew perched and in flight, several Grey-tailed Tattlers, and even a flock of White-headed Stilts. The mudflats also supported typically large numbers of Javan Pondherons, and there were also plenty of Sunda Teal in the end. A single Chinese Egret in non-breeding plumage was a big surprise, as well as a nice bonus. Numbers of Island Collared Doves and Javan Mynas were seen well in flight, as were both Linchi and Edible Nest Swiftlets. The mangrove edge and numerous posts poking out of the mud provided perches for the striking Small Blue Kingfisher, while two different Sacred Kingfishers seemed to prefer the open mud more. Savanna Nightjars were 1 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 seen at very close range as usual and in the mangrove trees and coastal scrub, we also found a pair of Racket-tailed Treepies, Flyeater and the stunningly red Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker. Fortunately for us, on our first morning of the tour, we had ample time for another outing on Bali, before taking the early afternoon flight to Sumba. A half-hour predawn drive took us down to Uluwatu at the southern tip of the island. The bird that we really wanted to see here was the now very much endangered Black-winged Myna, a small number of which have recently been found regularly at this site. They kept us waiting right until the very end though, when Steve spotted one perched in a small dead tree above one of the impressive cliffs and, just before returning to our bus, another two were seen around some kapok trees. The myna was not the only bird that we found here however, with other goodies including a Javan Kingfisher, several Spot-breasted Woodpeckers (split from Fulvous-breasted), a male Small Minivet, loads of Javan Mynas, and two Bar-winged Prinias that eventually obliged. Out at sea, we scoped a couple of distant Wilson’s Storm-petrels, and watched two pods of Indo-Pacific Bottle-nosed Dolphins. Amazingly for Indonesia, the flight to Waingapu on Sumba left on time. Unfortunately however, they failed to unload 75% of our luggage when we arrived. Despite this setback, we were able to head out to the Yumbu grasslands east of town at the usual time. Arriving on site, we spread out and, walking in a line through the short grassland, it wasn’t too long before we flushed our first Sumba Buttonquail. We found a second bird further down the road and, all-in-all, had good flight views. Every time that we got close to them on the ground, they just managed to evade us as usual. Other introductory birds included numerous Australasian Bushlarks, lots of Pied Chats and Zitting Cisticolas, several Zebra Finches, and some good looks at Indonesian Honeyeater. Our first full day in the field on Sumba began with a very early start, in order for us to arrive at Watumbelar – the best site for the endangered Citron-crested Cockatoo - by dawn. We made excellent time, and as soon as we arrived, we were met by a local guide who quickly lead us through small clearings and grassland to the forest edge. One of the first birds, as usual, was a noisy Greatbilled Parrot, and we were to see a good number during the morning. One or two Sumba Hornbills showed rather briefly and distantly, and then Steve noticed something white in a distant bushy canopy. Sure enough, it wasn’t long before a pair of Citron-crested Cockatoos topped a dead tree, and we got them in the scope. Then another pair appeared close by; the first time that we have seen two pairs here. We walked a loop through patches of forest, via a nice sheltered stream, and back to the bus in the heat of the late morning. Along the way we watched a circling Brown Goshawk in good light, and had distant flight views of both the Sumba race of Marigold Lorikeet (split from Rainbow) and Eclectus Parrot. We drove back to Lewa for lunch and, in the afternoon, birded the forest patches west of this small town. Here we were lucky enough to see another Citron-crested Cockatoo in flight, and we found our first two Red-naped Fruit-doves perched-up in a dead tree. Before dusk, we moved to an area of clearings and forest patches. As the sky darkened, a Sunda Nightjar showed well in flight right in front of us, but we needed to focus on owls. A pair of the recently described Little Sumba Boobook began calling, and an hour-long battle of wits ensued before we all finally all had good looks, and breathed a collective sigh of relief! All of our second day on Sumba was spent in the forest patches west of Lewa. One of the first birds that we encountered at dawn was the oft very difficult to observe Sumba Flycatcher which responded only briefly to playback. Later in the day however, after some strategic positioning, we had amazingly good views of one perched fully in the open at length. Close-by, we also had brilliant scope views of a Citron-crested Cockatoo, though the species is typically unreliable at this site. A female Eclectus Parrot was also scoped and a female seen in flight. The remaining endemics that we needed to see fell one-by-one. Sumba Jungle Flycatcher furtively foraging in dense mid-storey, Sumba Green Pigeon and the stunning Sumba Red-headed Honeyeater in the tops. Further sightings of Red-naped Fruitdove and Sumba Hornbill were made and, in the evening, we lured in our first Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher. At dusk we positioned ourselves in the hope of seeing Sumba Boobook, the islands’ other 2 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 endemic owl and, miraculously, one landed right in the dead tree in front of us. It gave great views, and even coughed-up a pellet. We had been fortunate indeed to make this observation, as a heavy downpour ensued. As is customary now, our last morning on Sumba was spent at Menggitimbe, an attractive freshwater wetland east of Waingapu. This year we walked right around to the back of the site and scanned over the extensive marshy grasslands. Amongst the egrets we picked out an adult Pied Heron, perhaps the same bird that had been seen as an immature on the previous tour. Several Australian Swamphens showed nicely in the scope, and a range of shorebirds included the usual Javan Plovers, two Oriental Plovers flying back-and-forth, and good numbers of Long-toed Stints and Sharp-tailed Sandpipers. A singing ‘Australian’ Reed Warbler showed well in the tall marsh. Two Spotted Harriers were also very welcome. We took an afternoon flight from Sumba to Kupang, the capital of west Timor, where we checked into the very comfortable Hotel Kristal. An early start the next day meant a dawn arrival at Bipolo, one of Timor’s most famous birding spots, where a road runs through the remnants of lowland forest, on the north side of Kupang Bay. The early part of the day was just as birdy as ever, and after a few hours we had already seen many of Timor’s endemics. Both Black-backed and Rose-crowned Fruitdoves showed well, as did some noisy Olive-headed Lorikeets, Wallacean Cuckooshrike, Olivebrown Oriole, Timor Blue Flycatcher, Plain Fairy Warbler (or Gerygone), Fawn-breasted Whistler, Timor Figbird, and Timor Friarbird. The flowering trees were attracting many Streak-breasted and Yellow-eared Honeyeaters, as well as plenty of Black-chested Myzomelas (or Honeyeaters), and we found our first superb male Flame-breasted Sunbird. At the edge of a teak plantation, we tempted in the lovely Orange-sided Thrush, but we were to connect better with this species later on. A quick search along the forest edge and adjacent paddyfields didn’t turn up much apart from Black-faced Woodswallows and Rainbow Bee-eaters, and as the temperature rose, we moved on to the salt-pans and fish-ponds at Pan Muti. Thankfully, last years reconstruction work had bee completed and a reasonable number of birds were once again on offer. Shorebirds included a good number of Redcapped Plovers, as well as the odd Marsh and Terek Sandpiper, a few more Long-toed Stints and Sharp-tailed Sandpipers, and some loafing White-faced Herons. A young Royal Spoonbill was seen very nicely in flight and, in adjacent marshland, we had our first decent views of the spanking Fivecoloured Munia. A rare Cinnamon Bittern was an unfortunate leader-only! In the mid afternoon, we decided to do a bit of exploring, and were very fortunate to stumble upon a nice area of tall plantation trees adjacent to some lowland forest to the west of Bipolo. Here we had superb scope views of both Pink-headed Imperial Pigeon – a species that is getting extremely hard to find now at Bipolo - and the bizarrely named Olive-shouldered Parrot, which is actually a really smart bird. As dusk fell, we took up position for another owl and, bang on time, a highly agitated Streaked Boobook (endemic to Timor) alighted in full view with wings drooped. Nearby Camplong was our destination the following day, with its characteristic mosaic of lowland dry savanna woodland and tropical semi-deciduous forest with evergreen patches. We had the particular aim of securing three skulking regional endemics for all concerned and, after much hard work and patience we persevered, and everyone eventually had good looks at the smart Blackbanded Flycatcher, highly unusual Buff-banded Thicket Warbler, and tiny Timor Stubtail, the last two of which rarely respond to playback, at least at this time of year. During the day, we also had our first Gould’s Bronze Cuckoos, White-bellied Bushchats, and Sunda Bush-warblers. Another early morning visit to Bipolo saw us scouring the forest edge for Timor Sparrows. We flushed a number of Brown Quail, and were surprised to see a lone Yellow-crested Cockatoo that we had seen in the same area two years previously. Lets hope it can find a mate! We had all but given up for the sparrow in this area however, but on the way back to the bus we stumbled across two good-sized groups totalling at least 50 birds. There were many juveniles again this year, so no problems with their breeding success. With some time on our hands, we decided to visit another part of the fish3 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 ponds at Pan Muti. On the way we flushed several Red-backed Buttonquails and, walking to the back of some remote ponds, located a group of five Australian Pelicans that C-G had earlier spotted in flight, at distance. A good range of shorebirds included some nice Far Eastern Curlews in flight, and loads more Red-capped Plovers. When it got too hot for us, we continued on to Soe, in time for lunch at our hotel. After a welcome nap, we made our first visit to Oelnasi, a little visited area of monsoon forest 15 km back towards Kupang. Returning to an area that I had discovered during last years tour, at the headwaters of a meandering stream, we soon heard the distinctive mellow wolf-whistle of a Barrednecked Cuckoo-dove. Finding a nice vantage point, we soon noticed one looking down at us from its twiggy perch, and scoped it for a lengthy period. A few plays of the song of Timor Black Pigeon elicited an even greater response, with a beautiful yellow-spectacled individual flying right in at close range. A rather bumpy predawn drive the following morning, took us to the start of the trail to Timor’s highest mountain, Gunung Mutis, by dawn. We were greeted by near gale-force winds in exposed areas, for the second year running, but decided to be adventurous and head for the higher ground below the cone of Mutis itself, perhaps some 5-7 km distant. At least it was a nice clear morning, and we had some fantastic views of the quite stunning landscape and habitats. By early lunch time, we had reached 1,920 m, over-looking a deep forested valley to the left of the peak, where we stayed for a few hours before descending again. Highlights during the day included multiple perched views of Metallic Pigeon and Olive-headed Lorikeet, excellent views of the distinctive local race of Pygmy Wren-babbler, numerous Mountain White-eyes, and quite a few Island Thrushes, Snowy-browed Flycatchers, and Timor Leaf-warblers. Some of us also managed to see Chestnut-backed Thrush and Greater Wallacean Drongo. Unfortunately, two noisy and responsive Iris Lorikeets that came in to investigate us, flew off before we could get onto them. Perhaps another time! On the following morning we paid another visit to Oelnasi. We had another look at Barred-necked Cuckoo-dove, and a perched Brush Cuckoo was welcome amongst other sightings, but our main target, Spot-breasted Dark-eye, remained elusive as the morning developed into yet another scorching hot day. We returned to our hotel in Soe for lunch, and then headed off for an afternoon visit to Camplong, in hope of tracking-down the dark-eye there. This proved to be the right move, as a small group of these often elusive small babblers was found visiting a fruiting tree, along with white-eyes and flowerpeckers. Satisfied at last, we headed back to the welcome luxury of the Kristal Hotel in Kupang. Leaving Timor behind, we were fortunate to be able to take a relatively short flight to Ruteng, in the highlands of the much greener island of Flores. From the airport, we drove directly to Kisol, on the south coast, and our accommodation for the next two nights at the Catholic Seminary. In the afternoon, we made our first birding sortie to the nearby forest at Kisol. There was rather little activity during the afternoon, as usual, but we had good views of Flores Crow and the stridently vocal Thickbilled Dark-eye made its first appearance. As the light dimmed, we tracked-down a calling Elegant Pitta and, one-by-one, we all got excellent views of it perched-up on a branch. After nightfall there were a number of calling Moluccan Scops-owls, but somehow we failed in our attempts to see one. Sunda Nightjar gave unbelievably close views however, on the track and at eye-level on branches. Early the following morning saw our return to the site. Some great luck put us onto a small feeding group of Flores Green-pigeons, which we scoped for a long time; thankful that we had seen this elusive bird at all. Russet-capped Tesia was proving harder to get onto, but some of us were starting to get some views. White-rumped Kingfisher also put in an initial appearance. We followed a trail out of the forest and down to some small farms. Here, we began what turned-out to be a marathon wait for Flores Hawk-eagle, as we scanned the forested slopes of Gunung Pacandeki. It was a no-show on this day, and another session in the afternoon from a different position only brought us a Variable Goshawk nest with two chicks, attended by a partially obscured adult. Still, this was a rare find in 4 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 itself. In the evening it rained, complicating our nightbirding efforts. A Wallace’s Scops-owl that was calling by the seminary was hard to track due to the unbelievable noise from the inmates. Predawn was cancelled due to heavy rain. We still had time for another watch for the eagle so, returning to the original spot, we settled for another go. After a couple of hours, the eagle could be heard calling, but was frustratingly hidden by low cloud. Then the skies cleared, and Steve soon picked it out perched in a dead tree. What an amazing relief it was to see this fantastic raptor, after about seven hours of scanning and waiting! It was well worth it though, and this magnificent bird was voted a clear favourite bird of the trip. The prolonged scope views, perched and in flight, no doubt contributing to this. After an early lunch at the seminary in Kisol, we moved on to our spotless new accommodation in Ruteng and, in the afternoon, visited the pass at Golo Lusang. It was still pretty cloudy, after further rain, but we had our first views of Flores Lorikeets shooting over, and Brown-capped Fantails performed. A couple of Dark-backed Imperial Pigeons showed for some of us, and the local race of Black-backed Fruit-dove was scoped. We remained until dark, when at least four different, but very elusive Wallace’s Scops-owls were heard. This was going to be our bogey-bird. The next morning was spent along a minor road that skirts the forested slopes near Pagal, north of Ruteng. As soon as we got out of the mini-bus, we could here White-rumped Kingfisher, and it wasn’t too long before we managed to all get perched views of one. A couple of Chestnut-backed Thrushes showed rather fleetingly. Not far down the road, we found some noisy Flores Lorikeets feeding in a small roadside tree, and then a Wallace’s Hanging-parrot zapped around the corner. Fortunately, we soon tracked it down to a fruiting tree, where it was found to be one of a pair. Amazingly, a female Flores Green-pigeon was also spotted close-by. The attractive Crested Dark-eye was much in evidence, as was Red-cheeked Parrot, though only females could be found perched, and some excellent views of Russet-capped Tesia were had. In the afternoon we drove up to Lake Rana Mese. The interesting local form of White-breasted Waterhen was scoped at the back of the lake, and two Flores Jungle-flycatchers were watched through a thin veil of mist. Further along the road, we had better views of two more, and two female Barred Cuckoo-doves feeding on small black fruits were a surprise. In the evening we moved further along the road and waited for nightfall. Expecting the usual rigmarole with the extremely difficult Flores Scops-owl, we were surprised to hear one calling right next to the road as soon as it got dark. We hurried over and during a second sweep with the torch beam, Helge said “there it is”. Sure enough, it was hunkered in semi-horizontal manner on a branch in full view, with its back turned. As we all watched, and I played a quick snatch of its call, it turned its head to frown down at us, with its sharp pale eyebrows. Wow, unbelievable. Our last full day in the Flores highlands consisted of morning and evening visits to Golo Lusang. In the early morning, the incredible chorus of Bare-throated Whistlers was just as amazing as ever, and Chestnut-backed Thrush showed well for most of us. Along the scrubby-flanked roadside, we tempted-out the local forms of Pygmy Wren-babbler and White-browed Shortwing, though both were relatively elusive. Flores Jungle-flycatchers showed again, in the best light so far, we had several looks at Yellow-browed Dark-eye, and there were plenty of close-ups of Brown-capped Fantail, Flores Leafwarbler, and Scaly-crowned Honeyeater. After dark, Wallace’s Scops-owl continued to be a pain-inthe-***, but a distant calling Flores Scops-owl was good. A very early start the next morning, saw us heading off west for a dawn visit to Puarlolo, home of the Flores Monarch. The sun was only just kissing the tree-tops, and we had not gone far down the trail, before we heard the first monarch calling. It showed quite well for most of us, but it wasn’t until we went further along the trail, and found some additional birds, that everyone had satisfactory views of this highly localised endemic. 5 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 With our target bird seen so quickly, we decided to push-on for the comforting and laid-back surroundings of the Komodo Eco Lodge, on the outskirts of Labuan Bajo. Before lunch, a quick walk down the beach brought several Pacific Reef-egrets, and a small number of shorebirds, best of which were three Beach Thick-knees hunting crabs along the tidal exposures. Around the lodge itself, Lemon-bellied White-eyes were easily found, and watched at close range – even from the bar for some! With the possibility of owls still in mind, we headed off in the late afternoon for the Potawangka Road which branches-off at the outskirts of Labuan Bajo. Up on top of the first ridge, a noisy Great-billed Parrot was a big surprise (as it is surely a rare bird on Flores now), as were several posing Hill Mynas. Owling was less successful however, with only a few rather distant Moluccan Scops-owls heard. Our final full day in the Lesser Sundas was a relaxing and most interesting one, with a visit to the fascinating island of Komodo. We boarded our boat before dawn and grabbed a couple more ours of sleep as we cruised across the straits. As the big red orb of the sun rose, Komodo lay before us and we scanned the shores on the way into the quay. Groups of resting Greater Crested Terns and a nice pair of White-bellied Sea-eagles were seen, and then at least four different Great-billed Herons. We picked-out our first groups of foraging Timor Deer up on the slopes. After a welcome breakfast on board we set foot on the island. After hooking-up with one of the park guides, we were soon confronted by several huge Komodo Dragons, surrounded by a large number of pigeons and doves coming down to drink and feed. A short walk into the woodlands, and we were soon getting some great views of Komodos most important avian asset, Yellow-crested Cockatoo, and enjoyed close views of twenty or more, including a pair at a nest-hole. We put the guides to work, tracking down Orange-footed Scrubfowl and fortunately it wasn’t too long before we found three birds loitering in the shadows, and they showed exceedingly well. After a cold drink we headed back to Labuan Bajo, with our eyes glued to the sea. There was nothing too exciting on the bird front this year, with typical numbers of Bulwer’s Petrels and plenty of Black-naped Terns and Red-necked Phalaropes. Several Green Sea Turtles were spotted coming up for air, and there were plenty of cetaceans, with a total of three Risso’s Dolphins and two different pods of Spinner Dolphins. One of the latter was actually seen spinning and several also slip-streamed the boat for some bow-riding. It was a pleasant ending to a very successful and enjoyable tour. 6 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). Subspecies names are given where known and/or appropriate, either in a comment or in parentheses. PROCELLARIIDAE Bulwer’s Petrel Bulweria bulwerii: Numbers were more typical this year, with 21 birds seen during the Labuan Bajo-Komodo-Labuan Bajo boat-ride. There are rather few observations from the Lesser Sundas, but that is probably because so few birdwatchers have done pelagic trips here. HYDROBATIDAE Wilson’s Storm-petrel Oceanites oceanicus: Two rather distant birds off Uluwatu, Bali. PODICIPEDIDAE Red-throated Little Grebe (Little Grebe, Dabchick) Tachybaptus ruficollis: Four were seen at Menggitimbe, Sumba, and five at Danau Rana Mese, Flores (tricolor). FREGATIDAE Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel (NL): Martine & François saw about six birds over the hotel on Bali. Frigatebird Fregata sp.: A single bird seen in poor early morning light, on the way to Komodo, could not be safely identified in my opinion. PHALACROCORACIDAE Little Black Cormorant Phalacrocorax sulcirostris: Reasonable numbers at scattered sites. Little Pied Cormorant Phalacrocorax melanoleucos: Scarcer than the last species, but also seen at Benoa Harbour on Bali. PELECANIDAE Australian Pelican Pelecanus conspicillatus: Great views of five at Pan Muti, near Bipolo, that were initially picked-up by C-G. ARDEIDAE Great-billed Heron Ardea sumatrana: At least four were picked out along island shores during the trip to Komodo. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Scattered sightings, with a maximum of 20 at Menggitimbe. Great Egret (Great White Egret) Egretta alba: Regular sightings of this widespread species (modesta). Pied Heron Egretta picata: An adult at Menggitimbe may well have been the first year bird that we saw in 2008. Intermediate Egret (Yellow-billed E) Egretta intermedia: Ten at Menggitimbe. White-faced Heron Egretta novaehollandiae: At least six in rice-paddies and around fish-ponds near Bipolo. Probably mainly a non-breeding visitor from Australia. Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Regular observations of this widespread bird. All those seen at close range at Benoa appeared to be the blackish-footed race nigripes. Chinese Egret Egretta eulophotes: Good scope views of one on the mudflats at Benoa Harbour. This appears to be the first record from Bali and the most southerly record in the world ever! Pacific Reef-egret Egretta sacra: Small numbers at Komodo and the west Flores coast (nominate race). Both pale and dark morphs were seen. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus: Regularly seen. Javan Pond-Heron Ardeola speciosa: Regular observations, particularly at Benoa, Bali, where at least 50 were noted (nominate race). Many were in full breeding plumage. Little Heron (Striated H, Green-backed Heron) Butorides striatus: Scattered sightings at coastal wetlands. 7 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 Black-crowned Night-heron Nycticorax nycticorax: Small groups were seen flying over at dusk, on our way back to Kuta from Benoa Harbour, Bali. Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus: Craig flushed one during lunch-break at Pan Muti, near Bipolo. CICONIIDAE Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus: One flew in and perched in a tree near Komodo Eco Lodge. THRESKIORNITHIDAE Royal Spoonbill Platalea regia: A single of this predominantly Australasian species was seen at Pan Muti, near Bipolo. ACCIPITRIDAE Oriental Honey-buzzard (Crested Honey-buzzard) Pernis ptilorhyncus: Up to three at Oelnasi, Timor, were the only ones seen. It is unclear whether Timor birds are wintering/passage orientalis or an undescribed resident form. Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus: A small number at Bipolo (hypoleucos). Black Kite Milvus migrans: Just one, at Pan Muti, near Bipolo (affinis). Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus: Regularly seen throughout (intermedius). White-bellied Sea-eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster: One at Pan Muti, and four during the Komodo trip. Always impressive. Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus: Singles of the nominate race were seen at Langgaliru on Sumba, and along the Potawangka road, west Flores. Spotted Harrier Circus assimilis: Two at Menggitimbe. Brown Goshawk Accipiter fasciatus: A good number of sightings this year, on six different days. The race tjendanae on Sumba, and hellmayri on Timor. Variable Goshawk Accipiter hiogaster: Helge discovered a nest with two well-grown young, while we were searching for Flores Hawk-eagle at Kisol. Unfortunately the adult in attendance was partially hidden, and then flew. The race here is sylvestris. The form in Australia and Tasmania is normally considered a separate species now: Grey Goshawk Accipiter novaehollandiae. Bonelli’s Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus: A pair were seen in flight just before we reached the pass at Golo Lusang, Flores. This is the distinctive race renschi, which some people are mooting as a distinct species. It is smaller and more heavily marked than its distant mainland relatives. Rufous-bellied Eagle Hieraaetus kienerii: An adult was seen well in flight at Golo Lusang. Flores Hawk-eagle Spizaetus floris: This year we experienced a marathon wait for this much soughtafter bird. What an amazing relief it was to see this fantastic raptor, after about seven hours of scanning and waiting! It was well worth it though, and this magnificent bird was voted a clear favourite bird of the trip. Restricted to the islands of Flores, Sumbawa, Komodo and Paloe, it surely ranks close to the Philippine Eagle. FALCONIDAE Spotted Kestrel (Moluccan Kestrel) Falco moluccensis: Many observations of this widespread little raptor (microbalia). ANATIDAE Wandering Whistling-duck Dendrocygna arcuata: About 100 at Menggitimbe. Sunda Teal Anas gibberifrons: Regular observations, including at least 180 at Pan Muti. Pacific Black Duck Anas superciliosa: The race rogersi was common on Sumba and at Danau Rana Mese, with about 50 and 30 respectively. 75 were also seen near Komodo Eco Lodge, Labuan Bajo. 8 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 MEGAPODIIDAE Orange-footed Scrubfowl Megapodius reinwardt: Great views of three on Komodo. A weird sound that we heard while owling along the Potawangka road was also this. PHASIANIDAE Brown Quail Coturnix ypsilophora: On Timor, we saw about 18 in the paddyfields at Bipolo, and another was seen on the way up to Golo Lusang on Flores! The race is raaltenii. Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus: Small numbers were seen at Oelnasi and Gunung Mutis on Timor, where it is probably of introduced origin. Green Junglefowl Gallus varius: Regular sightings, and some great views of this Indonesian endemic. TURNICIDAE Red-backed Buttonquail Turnix maculosa: On Timor, we flushed four birds of the nominate race near Bipolo, and had good flight views. Sumba Buttonquail Turnix everetti: We had several close flight views of two different birds in the Yumbu grasslands, near Waingapu. It is considered as Endangered by BirdLife International, and its voice is still undescribed. RALLIDAE Buff-banded Rail Gallirallus philippensis: Two wee seen well in flight, in the Bipolo/Pan Muti area. The nominate race. White-browed Crake Poliolimnas cinerea: One briefly at Menggitimbe. The nominate race. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus: One of the highly distinctive form leucomelanus was seen at Danau Rana Mese. This race is apparently highly variable, and therefore perhaps unlikely to be regarded as a distinct species. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Two at Menggitimbe (orientalis), and seven at Danau Rana Mese. Australian Swamphen Porphyrio melanotus: Four were seen nicely at Menggitimbe, where it presumably breeds. RECURVIROSTRIDAE White-headed Stilt Himantopus leucocephalus: Fifteen at Benoa Harbour were unexpected, and we later saw about ten at both Menggitimbe and Pan Muti. CHARADRIIDAE Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva: Regular sightings, including one on Komodo. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: One at Menggitimbe and three at Pan Muti; a surprising write-in. Javan Plover Charadrius javanicus: Two at Benoa, Bali, at least 30 at Menggitimbe, and up to 18 near the Komodo Eco Lodge, Labuan Bajo. Red-capped Plover Charadrius ruficapillus: A great year at Pan Muti, with up to 70 noted over a wide area of salt-pans and fish-ponds. A visitor from Australia, or recent colonist? Greater Sand-plover Charadrius leschenaultii: One of the commonest shorebirds, and regularly recorded. Oriental Plover Charadrius veredus: Two at Menggitimbe could only be seen in flight unfortunately. SCOLOPACIDAE Eurasian Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus: Small numbers on Bali, Timor and Flores (variegatus). Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata: At least 20 at Benoa, Bali. Far Eastern Curlew Numenius madagascariensis: A minimum of three of these magnificent waders at Benoa, Bali, and nine at Pan Muti, Timor. This species is considered to be NearThreatened by BirdLife International. Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa: Just two at Benoa. 9 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 Common Redshank Tringa totanus: 20 were noted on the mudflats at Benoa, and two near Labuan Bajo (eurhinus). Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis: Just three at Pan Muti. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Regular sightings throughout. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: Small numbers on Bali, Sumba and Timor. Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus: Two at Pan Muti and one near Labuan Bajo. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: Many sightings. Grey-tailed Tattler Heteroscelus brevipes: Six on the mudflats at Benoa Harbour, 25 near the Kristal Hotel, Kupang, and one near Labuan Bajo. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres: Singles at Benoa and Kupang. Rufous-necked Stint (Red-necked Stint) Calidris ruficollis: About ten at Menggitimbe, and up to 75 at Pan Muti. Long-toed Stint Calidris subminuta: 25 at Menggitimbe, and up to 30 at Pan Muti. A good year. Sharp-tailed Sandpiper Calidris acuminata: Also good this time, with 11 at Menggitimbe, and three at Pan Muti. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea: 35 at Benoa Harbour, and one near Labuan Bajo. Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus: Probably the best year yet, with 32 seen at sea, on the way back from Komodo, including many sitting on the sea at fairly close range. BURHINIDAE Beach Thick-knee Esacus neglectus: Good scope views of three on the beach near Komodo Eco Lodge, thanks to François. GLAREOLIDAE Australian Pratincole Stiltia isabella: A surprisingly poor year, with just one at Menggitimbe. STERNIDAE Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus: Small numbers at Benoa, Menggitimbe and Pan Muti. Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica: Five at Benoa, and up to 21 at Pan Muti. Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana: About 30 on the way back from Komodo. A beautiful, elegant tern. Little Tern Sterna albifrons: About 12 at Benoa, Bali. Aleutian/Common Tern Sterna aleutica/hirundo: One rather distant bird during our return from Komodo. Greater Crested Tern Sterna bergii: three at Uluwatu, Bali, and about 40 birds during the Komodo trip, including some at close range. COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon (Rock Dove, Feral Pigeon) Columba livia: Surprisingly scarce, and only noted occasionally. Metallic Pigeon Columba metallica: Small numbers on Sumba and Timor, including scope views of several. Formerly lumped in White-throated Pigeon Columba vitiensis. Island Collared Dove (I Turtle-D) Streptopelia bitorquata: About eight at Benoa, and a single bird briefly at a waterhole on Komodo. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Regular throughout the tour (tigrina). Barred Cuckoo-dove Macropygia unchall: Two female-type birds at Rana Mese were unexpected, and showed very well as they fed on berries at dusk. The nominate race. Ruddy Cuckoo-dove (Indonesian Cuckoo-dove) Macropygia emiliana: On Flores, singles were seen at Kisol and Pagal. Barred-necked Cuckoo-dove (Dusky C-d) Macropygia magna: Prolonged scope views of at least one bird on two different days at Oelnasi. It is one of the largest cuckoo-doves, and restricted in range to the east Lesser Sundas and islands off south Sulawesi. This was the nominate race. 10 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 Little Cuckoo-dove Macropygia ruficeps: One at Oelnasi (orientalis) Timor Black Pigeon (Slaty Cuckoo-dove) Turacoena modesta: This year, we had even better views of this superb dove at Oelnasi, with prolonged bouts through the scope. With its sultry good-looks, it was voted fifth favourite bird of the tour. Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica: Regular observations on Sumba, Flores and Komodo. Green-winged Pigeon Chalcophaps timorensis: Several sightings in the Timor forests. Formerly lumped in Emerald Dove. Zebra Dove Geopelia striata: Four birds on Bali. Barred Dove (Timor Zebra D) Geopelia maugei: Regular sightings in the Lesser Sundas and especially common near Bipolo and on Komodo. It is endemic to the southeastern Moluccas and Lesser Sundas. Pink-necked Green Pigeon Treron vernans: 20 at Uluwatu, Bali. The nominate race. Sumba Green Pigeon Treron teysmannii: Surprisingly, just three on Sumba. This endemic is considered to be Near-Threatened by BirdLife International. Flores Green Pigeon Treron floris: An exceptional year for this tricky Flores endemic, with scope views of four at Kisol, and another near Pagal. Black-backed Fruit-dove Ptilinopus cinctus: Frequently seen; the nominate race on Timor, and the grey-hooded albocinctus on Flores. A truly gorgeous dove. Red-naped Fruit-dove Ptilinopus dohertyi: Good scope views of this beautiful Sumba endemic near Lewa. It was another good tour for the species, with up to seven seen. Voted fourth favourite bird of the tour. It is considered as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. Rose-crowned Fruit-dove Ptilinopus regina: This superb fruit-dove was commonly observed in the Timor forests (flavicollis). Black-naped Fruit-dove Ptilinopus melanospila: This widespread little fruit-dove was frequently encountered on Sumba and Flores (melanauchen). Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea: Regular observations of this widespread species in the Sumba, Flores and Komodo forests (polia). Pink-headed Imperial Pigeon Ducula rosacea: This small island and coastal forest species is becoming very tough to find on Timor these days. It was very pleasing therefore, to find three of these Green Imperial look-alikes in a plantation of tall trees near Bipolo. Two were scoped for a lengthy period, and photographed. Another was seen in flight at dusk along the Pan Muti road. Dark-backed Imperial Pigeon Ducula lacernulata: Showed repeatedly at Golo Lusang, though rather fleetingly. Subspecies sasakensis. An Indonesian endemic which is restricted to the western Lesser Sundas, Java and Bali. PSITTACIDAE Marigold Lorikeet Trichoglossus capistratus: About six birds on Sumba, and seven on Timor. This is a recent split in the Rainbow Lorikeet complex, involving the races fortis and capistratus respectively; and is only found on these islands. The two forms might best be considered different species. Flores Lorikeet Trichoglossus weberi: At least 18 of these highly distinctive lorikeets were seen at Golo Lusang and Pagal, where we had great perched views. Bears little resemblance to Rainbow Lorikeet, with which it was formerly lumped. Olive-headed Lorikeet Trichoglossus euteles: Regular sightings on Timor, but best seen perched at Bipolo and Gunung Mutis. This species is endemic to the central Lesser Sundas. Iris Lorikeet Psitteuteles iris: A pair came in and called loudly at us, but unfortunately they zapped off before we could get a look. Very hard to pin-down unless they can be found at a flowering tree or suchlike. Yellow-crested Cockatoo Cacatua sulphurea: Very easy to see on Komodo, as always (parvula). One was also seen again at Bipolo, Timor. This spectacular species is restricted to Sulawesi and the Lesser Sundas. It has declined dramatically over much of its range in the past 11 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 twenty years and the total population is now estimated at less than 5000 birds. It is considered to be Critically Endangered by BirdLife International. Citron-crested Cockatoo Cacatua citrinocristata: Multiple sightings this year, and our best views yet, with prolonged looks through the scope at relatively close range. Four at Watumbelar, and one or two at Langgaliru. It used to be lumped in Yellow-crested Cockatoo, but it has a very distinctive orangey crest and cheeks. Eclectus Parrot Eclectus roratus: A total of four were seen on Sumba, including a perched male in the scope at close range. The isolated race cornelia. Red-cheeked Parrot Geoffroyus geoffroyi: Frequently encountered during the tour with observations on Sumba and Flores (floresianus). Great-billed Parrot Tanygnathus megalorhynchos: Ten sumbaensis on Sumba, including scope views. It was encouraging to see a single bird of the nominate race along the Potawangka road, west Flores, as we seldom encounter the species on this island. Another species that has declined over much of its range. Olive-shouldered Parrot Aprosmictus jonquillaceus: A much better year this time, with three seen both near Bipoli and at Oelnasi. The former birds showing particularly well for a long time. The nominate race. Endemic to the islands of Timor, Roti and Wetar, and considered to be Near-Threatened by BirdLife International. Wallace’s Hanging-parrot Loriculus flosculus: For the third year running, we were all treated to superb scope views of this rare little parrot near Pagal, Flores; this time a pair. It is considered as Endangered by BirdLife International and its population may be as little as a few thousand birds. CUCULIDAE Sunda Cuckoo Cuculus lepidus: Often heard in the hill forests of Flores but only seen once, and rather too briefly at Golo Lusang. A fairly recent split from Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus saturatus. Rusty-breasted Cuckoo (Indonesian Cuckoo) Cacomantis sepulcralis: Its melancholic voice was commonly heard on Sumba and Flores (nominate race). One was seen at Rana Mese. Brush Cuckoo Cacomantis variolosus: Two wee seen at Oelnasi, with one scoped. Gould’s Bronze Cuckoo Chrysococcyx russatus: Three (of the nominate race) at Camplong, and another at Oelnasi. Good views. Common Koel Eudynamys scolopacea: Single were seen at Pagal and near Labuan Bajo (malayana). Australian Koel Eudynamys cyanocephala: Heard on Sumba and Thmor, with one seen in flight at Bipolo. CENTROPODIDAE Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis: This widespread species was noted on Sumba and Flores (javanensis). STRIGIDAE Barn Owl Tyto alba: Excellent views of a roosting individual at Langgaliru, Sumba, and then at least 5 counted during the journey from Ruteng to Puarlolo; mostly seen by Martine. The former was the endemic race sumbaensis, while the others were the more widespread javanica. Flores Scops-owl Otus alfredi: Finally we managed to get full-on perched views of this elusive nightbird. Soon after dusk at Rana Mese, we were all able to watch one glaring down at us from a horizontal branch. Second favourite bird of the trip. It was originally only known from three specimens (Mount Repok, 1896) until it was rediscovered near Ruteng in 1995. At first, its voice was misidentified as that of Red-legged Crake, but since it has become known, there have been several recent observations. It is considered as Endangered by BirdLife International. 12 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 Moluccan Scops-owl Otus magicus (H): Losing our second night of owling to rain at Kisol ultimately cost us this one;even though we later heard birds along the Potawangka road near Labuan Bajo. Wallace’s Scops-owl Otus silvicola (H): Although we heard six to eight different birds on Flores, none of them went on long enough for us to track them down. Sumba Boobook Ninox rudolfi: Great views of one in a dead tree near Lewa. We even saw it coughup a pellet. This Sumba endemic is considered to be Near-Threatened by BirdLife International. Little Sumba Boobook (Sumba Hawk-owl) Ninox sumbaensis: Usually harder to see than the last species, it took us about an hour to get decent views of a vocal pair, after some determined work. This Sumba endemic is a species with a chequered history, as it was first recorded in 1991, when it was thought to be a member of the genus Otus. It was only formally described in 2002. Coates & Bishop mention this species under Scops-owl Otus sp? on p.361. Streaked Boobook Ninox fusca: Amazing views of this Timor endemic at Bipolo, with its wings drooped. Heard at Oelnasi. Coates & Bishop have it lumped in the Southern Boobook Ninox novaeseelandiae. CAPRIMULGIDAE Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus (H): The distinctive voice of the Timor form was heard at dusk at Oelnasi. The race here is supposed to be Wallacea-wide schlegelii, but Timor birds sound nothing like those on Halmahera for example, which are quite typical of the species. Sunda Nightjar (Mees's Nightjar) Caprimulgus meesi: Good views along the forest edge near Lewa, Sumba, and then amazingly close prolonged views of agitated males at Kisol, Flores. Many others were heard. This is a representative of the Large-tailed Nightjar C. macrurus complex, found only on Flores and Sumba. Previously unrecognised as a separate taxon due to its lack of morphological distinctness, Sangster & Rozendaal (2004) described this new species on the basis of its vocalisations, which differ significantly from those of Large-tailed. Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis: Fantastic daytime views of five at Benoa, Bali. Heard on Sumba. APODIDAE Edible-nest Swiftlet Collocalia fuciphaga: The nominate race was common on throughout. Glossy Swiftlet (White-bellied S) Collocalia esculenta: Common throughout the Lesser Sundas, and probably the most frequently recorded bird. We saw the race neglecta on Timor, and sumbawae on Sumba and Flores. On-going DNA research apparently shows the former to be a good species (Timor Swiftlet), and the latter to be a race of Linchi. Linchi Swiftlet (Cave S) Collocalia linchi: Common on Bali (dedii). House Swift Apus affinis: Six at Kuala Lumpur airport, and two on Bali. HALCYONIDAE White-rumped Kingfisher Caridonax fulgidus: Terrific views of several birds on Flores. It is restricted to Flores, Sumbawa, Lombok and Besar, but is apparently common enough. The genus Caridonax is one of the few that are endemic to the Lesser Sundas. Stork-billed Kingfisher Halcyon capensis (NL): Martine and François found one near Komodo Eco Lodge (floresiana). Javan Kingfisher Halcyon cyanoventris: We had a lucky break, when one showed during our search for Black-winged Myna at Uluwatu. Collared Kingfisher Halcyon chloris: Regular observations of the nominate race. Sacred Kingfisher Halcyon sancta: Regular sightings of this visitor from Australia on Bali, Sumba, Timor and Flores (nominate race), particularly along coasts. 13 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher Halcyon australasia: Singles of the nominate race were seen at Langgaliru, Sumba, and at Bipolo and Oelnasi on Timor. Considered to be NearThreatened for some reason by BirdLife International. ALCEDINIDAE Small Blue Kingfisher Alcedo coerulescens: This Indonesian endemic was common at Benoa Harbour. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: Two at Menggitimbe, and one or two at Pan Muti. The birds at the former location were definitely floresiana, with deeper blue parts than bengalensis, and less rufous-chestnut on the ear-coverts. MEROPIDAE Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus: Regular sightings of this handsome species on Sumba, Timor and Flores. Rainbow Bee-eater Merops ornatus: This visitor from Australia was commonly encountered on Timor, and four were also seen along the Potawangka road, Flores. Many great looks. Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti: Two at Uluwatu, Bali. CORACIIDAE Common Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis: Just one at Watumbelar, Sumba (pacificus). BUCEROTIDAE Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris (NL): Some of us glimpsed one at Uluwatu, Bali. Sumba Hornbill Rhyticeros everetti: Not a great year, but at least five seen on Sumba. The population is now thought to number less than 4000 birds and is declining. It is considered as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. PICIDAE Spot-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopos analis: Four birds of the nominate race were seen at Uluwatu. This species was formerly lumped in Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker D. macei of the northern Indian subcontinent and western and northern Myanmar. Sunda Pygmy Woodpecker (Brown-capped W) Dendrocopos moluccensis: Small numbers were regularly seen on Flores (grandis), including one entering a nest-hole along the Potawangka road. The only woodpecker in the Lesser Sundas PITTIDAE Elegant Pitta Pitta elegans: This is one species that everyone always wants to see. This year, we had great views of perched birds on both Sumba (maria) and Flores (concinna). ALAUDIDAE Australasian Bushlark Mirafra javanica: Abundant in the Yumbu grasslands, Sumba (parva). At least 30 were counted, while we searched for buttonquails. HIRUNDINIDAE Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Singles on Bali and Sumba. Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica: Small numbers on Bali, Sumba and west Flores (javanica). Striated Swallow Hirundo striata: The nominate race was seen at Watumbelar on Sumba, and Pagal and the Potawangka road on Flores. Tree Martin Hirundo nigricans: On Timor, three were seen near Bipolo, and another at Gunung Mutis (timoriensis). 14 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 MOTACILLIDAE Paddyfield Pipit (Oriental P) Anthus rufulus: Regular observations on Sumba and Komodo (albidus) and on Timor (medius). CAMPEPHAGIDAE Wallacean Cuckoo-shrike Coracina personata: A few observations of this relatively widespread species. We saw sumbensis on Sumba, personata on Timor, and pale-bellied floris on Flores. Pale-shouldered Cicadabird (Sumba C) Coracina dohertyi: We saw good numbers of this monotypic west Lesser Sundas endemic on both Sumba and Flores. White-shouldered Triller Lalage sueurii: Regular observations on Bali, Sumba and Timor. Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus: A male at Uluwatu was a surprise. The race saturatus of Java and Bali, here at the extreme southern edge of the species range. Little Minivet (Flores M) Pericrocotus lansbergei: Many observations of this elegant Flores and Sumbawa endemic in the highland forests of western Flores. AEGITHINIDAE Common Iora Aegithina tiphia: Quite common at Uluwatu, Bali. PYCNONOTIDAE Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster: Eight of the nominate race at Uluwatu and then two along the forest edge at Bipolo. Presumed to be escapes at the latter location, and not recorded for Timor by Coates & Bishop. Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier: Very common on Bali (analis). DICRURIDAE Lesser Wallacean Drongo Dicrurus bimaensis: Regular encounters on Sumba (sumbae) and on Flores and Komodo (nominate). Beautifully glossed when seen in the right light. A recent split from following species. Greater Wallacean Drongo Dicrurus densus: Small numbers of this large-billed drongo were noted on Timor. ORIOLIDAE Olive-brown Oriole (Timor O) Oriolus melanotis: Good views of two on Timor (nominate race). Endemic to Timor, Wetar, Roti and Semau. Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis: This widespread and well known species was seen on Sumba, Flores and Komodo. One of the more orange-yellow races was involved; broderipii. Timor Figbird Sphecotheres viridis: Relatively scarce this year in the lowland forests of Timor, where mainly associated with fruiting trees. Endemic to Timor, Roti and Semau; a split from Australasian (or Green) Figbird S. vieilloti. CORVIDAE Racket-tailed Treepie Crypsirina temia: Two at Benoa, Bali. House Crow Corvus splendens (NL): One was reported from Kuala Lumpur airport. Flores Crow Corvus florensis: Very easily seen this year at Kisol. Heard at Puarlolo and along the Potawangka road. With its noisy wing-beats and comical calls, this really is an oddity. It is endemic to Flores and is considered as Endangered by BirdLife International. Southern Jungle Crow Corvus macrorhynchos: Regular encounters. This is a good split from the other members of the Large-billed Crow complex (Large-billed Crow C. japonensis, Indian Jungle Crow C. culminatus, and Eastern Jungle Crow C. levaillantii). See Rasmussen & Anderton’s Birds of South Asia. 15 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 PARIDAE Grey Tit Parus cinereus: Regular observations on Sumba and Flores. Here at the extreme eastern edge of its range. A recent split in the Great Tit P. major complex. TIMALIIDAE Pygmy Wren-babbler Pnoepyga pusilla: Seen very well in the highland forest on Gunung Mutis, Timor (timorensis), and rather more fleetingly near Ruteng on Flores (everetti). The race on Timor is morphometrically and vocally distinct, and may well be split in future; while the Flores bird also exhibits vocal differences from the mainland. TURDIDAE White-browed Shortwing Brachypteryx montana: Two showed quite fleetingly at Golo Lusang. This is the isolated and very distinctive floris race, which has a very rich song, and is a likely future split. Chestnut-backed Thrush Zoothera dohertyi: This highly attractive thrush was seen on many occasions on both Timor and Flores, though it was a while before everyone got onto one. Voted third favourite bird of the tour. This monotypic Lesser Sunda endemic is considered to be Near-Threatened by BirdLife International, though it is hard to see why. Orange-sided Thrush (Orange-banded T) Zoothera peronii: A number of sightings, involving seven birds, on Timor (nominate race). It is restricted to the islands of Timor, Wetar, Babar, Romang and Damar, and is considered to be Near-Threatened by BirdLife International. Island Thrush Turdus poliocephalus: A bit difficult to find this year, but eventually, we all had decent views on the lower slopes of Gunung Mutis, Timor. The form here is schegelii, which is similar to several other regional forms. There are no fewer than 52 so-called races of this ‘standing joke’ of a species, and it is high time that someone did some DNA work on them. Pied Chat Saxicola caprata: Another widespread species that we encountered on Sumba (francki), Timor (pyrrhonota) and on Flores and Komodo (fruticola). White-bellied Chat (White-bellied Bushchat) Saxicola gutturalis: Several excellent views of this open forest inhabitant on Timor (nominate race), at Camplong and Oelnasi. It is endemic to Timor, Roti and Semau and it is considered to be Near-Threatened by BirdLife International. PARDALOTIDAE Flyeater (Golden-bellied Gerygone) Gerygone sulphurea: Singles seen and heard on Bali, and then widely distributed at all altitudes on Flores (nominate race). Plain Fairy Warbler (P Gerygone) Gerygone inornata: This endemic of Timor, Roti, Wetar and Sawu was quite common in the forests of Timor. A highly distinctive and frequently heard song, which often made us smile. The soundtrack of Timor. SYLVIIDAE Russet-capped Tesia (R-c Stubtail) Tesia everetti: Frequently encountered on Flores (nominate race), with many sightings. Endemic to Sumbawa and Flores. Timor Stubtail Urosphena subulata: At least four of these tiny warblers were seen feeding and moving (surprisingly swiftly) through the leaf-litter at Camplong. Others were heard here, and at Bipolo and Oelnasi. Its very high-pitched, almost inaudible voice and secretive behaviour make it difficult to locate and observe. It is restricted to Timor, Wetar and Babar. Sunda Bush-warbler (Indonesian Bush-warbler) Cettia vulcania: Several encounters in the Timor forests (everetti). Australian Reed-warbler Acrocephalus australis: The Clamorous-type reed warblers at Menggitimbe, where we saw one and heard three, are perhaps best aligned with this species. 16 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cuculatus: A few of us managed to get onto this widespread species in the highland forests of Flores (everetti). DNA studies have shown that it is not remotely related to tailorbirds, and it is currently called Phyllergates cucullatus. Timor Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus presbytes: At least eight on Gunung Mutis, Timor, and heard at Oelnasi. It is endemic to this island. Flores Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus floris: Regular sightings in the highland forests of Flores. An endemic that was recently split from the previous species. Yellow-breasted Warbler Seicercus montis (H): Unfortunately heard only at Golo Lusang, Flores (floris). A widespread species. Tawny Grassbird Megalurus timoriensis: One showed briefly near Lewa. Endemic inquirendus. Buff-banded Thicket-warbler (B-b Bushbird) Buettikoferella bivittata: This unusual Timor endemic was as uncooperative as ever, but then two birds suddenly decided to show themselves for a lengthy period, and we all got good views. That’s birding I suppose! About five were seen and many heard, at Camplong, Bipolo and Oelnasi. The genus Buettikoferella is one of the few that are endemic to the Lesser Sundas. CISTICOLIDAE Zitting Cisticola (Fan-tailed Warbler) Cisticola juncidis: Several encounters with this well-known species on Sumba and Timor (fuscicapillus). Golden-headed Cisticola (Bright-capped Cisticola) Cisticola exilis: Six or seven showed well in dry rice-paddies near Bipolo, Timor (lineocapilla). Bar-winged Prinia Prinia familiaris: Another bonus-bird on Bali, where a pair eventually showed to all of us at Uluwatu. MUSCICAPIDAE Flores Jungle-flycatcher Rhinomyias oscillans: A good year, with about seven different birds noted in the Flores highlands. It is endemic to Sumbawa and Flores. This and the next species are not typical Rhinomyias flycatchers and exhibit whistler-like behaviour. Sumba Jungle-flycatcher Rhinomyias stresemanni: Just a single bird this year on Sumba, but it showed well. A recent split from the previous species. Sumba Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa segregata: One was seen relatively briefly, though we managed to scope it, near Lewa. This is one of the tougher Sumba endemics to see, and is considered to be Near-Threatened by BirdLife International. Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra: Five of these familiar little flycatchers were seen on the lower slopes of Gunung Mutis (clarae). Sumba Flycatcher Ficedula harterti: The toughest of the Sumba endemics turned out to be a pushover this year, and we all had prolonged views of a responsive bird, fully in the open at Langgaliru. Not a typical Ficedula, being more similar to the so-called Rhinomyias flycatchers of this region. Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni: Small numbers on Timor and Flores. Two males were seen performing a kind of display at Golo Lusang, with the head bowed. Black-banded Flycatcher Ficedula timorensis: This striking flycatcher was relatively easily found again this year at Camplong, with repeated views of a pair and a male. Another was heard, and it was also heard at Oelnasi. It is considered to be Near-Threatened by BirdLife International. Timor Blue Flycatcher Cyornis hyacinthinus: Frequent encounters with this attractive species, which is restricted to the islands of Roti, Semau, Wetar and Timor (nominate race). Its assignation to this genus seems dubious, and nothing about the bird says Cyornis, apart from colour. MONARCHIDAE Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea: Quite common on Flores and Komodo (prophata). 17 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 Asian Paradise-flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi: Regularly recorded on Sumba (sumbaensis) and on Flores (floris). We saw several white males. Flores Monarch Monarcha sacerdotum: Great views of this little-known and striking monarch at Puarlolo, with three seen at close range, including a juvenile. It is endemic to the western half of Flores and was only discovered in 1971 (described in 1973). It then disappeared for many years until fairly sizable populations were found in the 1990’s. It is considered as Endangered by BirdLife International. Spectacled Monarch Monarcha trivirgatus: Occasional sightings on Sumba, Timor and Flores (nominate race). Broad-billed Flycatcher (B-b Monarch) Myiagra ruficollis: One of these odd, boat-billed monarchs was seen on Sumba, and three more on Timor. The nominate race. RHIPIDURIDAE Pied Fantail Rhipidura javanica: One briefly at Uluwatu, Bali. Northern Fantail Rhipidura rufiventris: Regular encounters with this inquisitive fantail in the Timor forests (nominate race). It does not adopt the characteristic fanned-tail posture of most fantails. Brown-capped Fantail Rhipidura diluta: This Sumbawa, Flores and Lomblen endemic was frequently seen in the highlands of Flores, and even down at Kisol. The nominate race. Arafura Fantail Rhipidura dryas: This recent split from Rufous Fantail R. rufifrons was common on Sumba (sumbensis) and on Timor and Flores (semicollaris); though less so on the latter island. PETROICIDAE Grey-headed Flycatcher (G-h Canary-flycatcher) Culicicapa ceylonensis: Several were recorded on Sumba (connectens). Although a well-known and widespread Asian species, the birds here have markedly different vocalisations and lack the slightly crested appearance of mainland forms. PACHYCEPHALIDAE Fawn-breasted Whistler Pachycephala orpheus: Fairly common on Timor. Its song is much more distinctive than its plumage, and it is clearly much more similar to female Common Golden Whistler than the book suggests. Endemic to Timor, Wetar, Jaco and Semau. Common Golden Whistler (Golden Whistler) Pachycephala pectoralis: We recorded this widespread and bird on Sumba (fulviventris), Timor (calliope), and Flores and Komodo (fulvotincta). An amazing 64 subspecies have been described. Bare-throated Whistler Pachycephala nudigula: With its magnificent and extremely varied, powerful song, this is one of the most wanted birds on this tour. We had several good sightings in the Flores highlands, where it is represented by the nominate race. It is endemic to Sumbawa and Flores. ARTAMIDAE White-breasted Wood-swallow Artamus leucorynchus: Small numbers throughout (albiventer). Black-faced Wood-swallow Artamus cinereus: At least two pairs of this mainly Australian species, were scoped in the rice-paddies near Bipolo, Timor (perspicillatus). LANIIDAE Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach: Small numbers on Bali and Timor (bentet). STURNIDAE Short-tailed Starling Aplonis minor: Regularly recorded. 18 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 Black-winged Myna (B-w Starling) Acridotheres melanopterus: It was a big bonus to see this declining, or should one say seriously persecuted bird at Uluwatu on the south coast of Bali. We had all but given up when Steve latched-onto it. Phew! Three seen in all. Javan Myna Acridotheres javanicus: Many sightings on Bali, where it is native, totalled nearly 50 birds. Six were also seen during our travels on Sumba, where it is presumed to be introduced. Coates & Bishop confusingly include it in A. cinereus (Pale-bellied Myna) of SW Sulawesi, under the common name White-vented Myna. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis (NL): About ten birds were reported from Kuala Lumpur airport. Hill Myna (Common Hill-myna) Gracula religiosa: Great views of three along the Potawangka road, near Labuan Bajo, west Flores. It was totally unexpected. The race is venerata, which is endemic to the west Lesser Sundas, and has distinctive head-wattle features. MELIPHAGIDAE Timor Friarbird (Plain F) Philemon inornatus: Regular observations of this fairly inconspicuous Timor endemic. Helmeted Friarbird Philemon buceroides: Widespread and very vociferous. Recorded on Sumba and Flores (neglectus) and on Timor (nominate race). Streak-breasted Honeyeater (S-b Meliphaga) Meliphaga reticulata: Common on Timor, particularly around flowering trees. Endemic to the islands of Timor and Semau. Scaly-crowned Honeyeater Lichmera lombokia: Common around flowering trees in the Flores highlands. It is endemic to Lombok, Sumbawa and Flores. Indonesian Honeyeater Lichmera limbata: Several sightings on Sumba and Timor. It was previously lumped in Brown Honeyeater L. indistincta of Australia and New Guinea. Yellow-eared Honeyeater Lichmera flavicans: Commonly seen this year on Timor, with some great views obtained. One of the more attractive Honeyeaters, and a Timor endemic. Sumba Red-headed Honeyeater (S Myzomela) Myzomela dammermani: This year, we were lucky enough to get good views of this elusive Sumba endemic, with two different males at Langgaliru. Black-chested Honeyeater (B-c Myzomela, Red-rumped Honeyeater) Myzomela vulnerata: Regular observations of this Timor endemic, which is much easier to find than the previous species, and is particularly common around the numerous flowering trees at Bipolo. NECTARINIIDAE Brown-throated Sunbird Nectarinia malacensis: Small numbers on Sumba (rubrigena), and on Flores and Komodo (convergens). Widespread in South-East Asia and the Greater Sundas. Olive-backed Sunbird Nectarinia jugularis: A few were seen on Bali, Flores and Komodo (ornata). Another widespread species. Apricot-breasted Sunbird Nectarinia buettikoferi: This delightful Sumba endemic posed several times for us along forest edges. Flame-breasted Sunbird Nectarinia solaris: Many splendid views of this blinding Lesser Sundas endemic on Timor, Flores and Komodo (nominate race). Martinus found a nest at Kisol, in which one of the fledging youngsters had got itself entangled and had managed to strangle itself. DICAEIDAE Golden-rumped Flowerpecker Dicaeum annae: Common in certain parts of Flores. Not easy to see the golden rump though! Endemic to Sumbawa and Flores. Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile: This tail-waggler was seen a number of times, on Sumba (tinctum) and Timor (obsoletum). Black-fronted Flowerpecker Dicaeum igniferum: This Lesser Sundas endemic was regularly observed on Flores. Red-chested Flowerpecker Dicaeum maugei: Regularly observed in the Timor forests (nominate race). Endemic to the Lesser Sundas and a few islands south of Sulawesi. 19 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 Blood-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum sanguinolentum: Fairly common on Sumba (wilhelminae). Restricted to Java, Bali and the Lesser Sundas. Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker Dicaeum trochileum: A male showed well at Benoa on Bali. A very striking Indonesian endemic. ZOSTEROPIDAE Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus: Regular encounters in the Flores highlands with the yellow-bellied unicus. Surely a potential split. Mountain White-eye Zosterops montanus: Very common in the Timor and Flores highland forests (nominate race). Yellow-spectacled White-eye (Orange-fronted W-e) Zosterops wallacei: Fairly common in the Sumba and Flores forests. This distinctive orange-fronted cutie is endemic to the western Lesser Sundas. Lemon-bellied White-eye (Moluccan W-e) Zosterops chloris: Quite common, with several close observations, around the Komodo Eco Lodge, Labuan Bajo and on Komodo. Ashy-bellied White-eye Zosterops citrinellus: Common on Sumba and Timor (nominate race). Yellow-browed Dark-eye (Eye-browed Ibon, White-browed White-eye) Lophozosterops superciliaris: This ibon was fairly common in the highlands of Flores (nominate race), and is endemic to Sumbawa and Flores. Crested Dark-eye (Dark-crowned Ibon, Dark-crowned White-eye) Lophozosterops dohertyi: This handsome ibon was common in submontane forests on Flores (subcristatus), and is endemic to Sumbawa, Satonda and Flores. Another species that is much more attractive than shown in Coates & Bishop. Spot-breasted Dark-eye (Streak-breasted Ibon, Timor White-eye) Heleia muelleri: We had to work hard for this one, but eventually caught-up with a group of three birds visiting a fruiting fig at Camplong. Heleia is one of the few genera that is endemic to the Lesser Sundas, and the species is considered to be Near-Threatened by BirdLife International. Thick-billed Dark-eye (Pale-fronted Ibon, Flores White-eye) Heleia crassirostris: This very ‘differentlooking’ ibon was regularly encountered in the forests of Flores, betraying its presence by a very powerful song. It is endemic to Sumbawa and Flores. PASSERIDAE Tree Sparrow (Eurasian T S) Passer montanus: Fairly common throughout (malaccensis). ESTRILDIDAE Red Avadavat Amandava amandava: About 12 at Watumbelar and two at Menggitimbe, Sumba (flavidiventris). The Wallacean populations are probably derived from early introductions. Zebra Finch Taeniopygia guttata: Good numbers at Menggitimbe and Bipolo. A Lesser Sunda endemic, now that the Australian form castanotis has been split-off as Chestnut-eared Finch. Black-faced Munia Lonchura molucca: This monotypic munia was regularly seen on Timor and Flores. Mostly restricted to Wallacea. Scaly-breasted Munia (Nutmeg Mannikin) Lonchura punctulata: This widespread and well-known species was found on Sumba (sumbae) and Timor (blasii). Five-coloured Munia Lonchura quinticolor: Common in the fields near Bipolo, with at least 300 counted. A Lesser Sundas endemic. Pale-headed Munia Lonchura pallida (NL): Helge was lucky enough to see a flock at Menggitimbe. It is endemic to Sulawesi and the Lesser Sundas. Munia Lonchura sp.: The bird that flew over at Benoa will have to remain unidentified, as Chestnut Munia does not occur on Bali! Timor Sparrow Padda fuscata: Great views of this little-known species along the forest edge at Bipolo, with at least 50 seen, including many juveniles. This attractive species is endemic to Timor, Roti and Semau and is considered to be Vulnerable by BirdLife International. 20 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 MAMMALS Plantain Squirrel Callosciurus notatus (H): One was alarm-calling at Uluwatu. Brown Rat Rattus norvegicus: C-G and Angie saw a couple of tame ones in Denpasar domestic airport departure area. Flores Giant Tree Rat Papagomys armandvillei: When I heard some bushes shaking during an owling session at Golo Lusang, Flores, I was expecting to see a cow. Instead, there was a giant rat in the spotlight! Short-nosed fruit bat Cynopterus sp.: At least three roosting at our hotel on Bali. Flying fox Pteropus sp.: One individual of one of the smaller species at Kisol. Flying fox Pteropus sp.: One individual of one of the larger species along the Potawangka road, near Labuan Bajo. Asian Palm Civet (Common P C) Paradoxurus hermaphroditus: At Kisol we spotlighted one up a tree, which appeared to be blackish all over. Melanism has previously been documented in this species, and the darkness and relatively small size of some insular populations noted. It is not clear from the literature which race was involved. Long-tailed Macaque (Crab-eating Macaque) Macaca fascicularis: One at Uluwatu, then common and widespread on Sumba and Flores. Indo-Pacific Bottle-nosed Dolphin Tursiops aduncus: At least 30 in two pods off Uluwatu. Spinner Dolphin Stenella longirostris: Two groups totalling about 40 animals, seen during the return boat trip from Komodo, were thought to be this species. One was seen ‘spinning’ with the tail-tip still in the water. Risso’s Dolphin Grampus griseus: Three dolphins with tall fins that were noted during the return trip from Komodo, were definitely this species; and seen for the second year running. Eurasian Wild Boar (Wild Boar, Indian W B) Sus scrofa: Several were seen on the shore of Komodo, where the species has long been introduced. Timor Deer (Rusa Deer) Cervus timorensis: Common on Komodo; though thought to possibly be an ancient introduction. REPTILES Komodo Dragon Varanus komodoensis: Four of these amazing huge monitor lizards on Komodo. Tockay Gecko Gekko gecko: Regularly heard throughout and several seen well at Kisol. Green Sea Turtle Chelonia mydas: About six were seen off Komodo. Boschma’s Gliding-lizard Draco boschmai: Two, with their yellow throat-fans, were seen on Komodo. This is a recent split from Common Gliding-lizard D. volans, and is endemic to the western Lesser Sundas and parts of Sulawesi. Timor Gliding-lizard Draco timorensis: One at Camplong. Another recent split from Common Gliding-lizard, which is only found on the islands of Timor, Roti, Alor, Semau, and Wetar. AMPHIBIANS Asian Common Toad Duttaphrynus melanostictus: One was photographed at the Bali Rani Hotel, Bali. Common on Sumba, where it is a non-native. BUTTERFLIES Common Snow Flat Tagiades japetus: Kisol. Lime Papilio demoleus: Watumbelar, Oelnasi, Ruteng. Peranthus Peacock Papilio peranthus: Kisol and Ruteng etc. Bali to the Lesser Sundas only. Banded Peacock Papilio palinurus: Watumbelar. Common Grass Yellow Eurema hecabe: Kisol. Lemon Emigrant Catopsila pomona: Bipolo. 21 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 ‘Reinwardt’s Orange Tip Ixias reinwardti: Komodo. Bali to the Lesser Sundas only. Common Wanderer Pareronia valeria tryphena: Kisol. Yellow Albatross Appias paulina: Gunung Mutis, Komodo. Red-spot Jezebel Delias descombesi lydia: Psyche Leptosia nina: Oelnasi, Kisol. Common Pierrot Castalius rosimon: Yumbu, Oelnasi. Transparent 6-line Blue Nacaduba kurava: Komodo. Common Cerulean Jamides celeno: Kisol Long-tailed Blue (Pea Blue) Lampides boeticus: Watumbelar. All the way to Europe. Tiny Grass Blue Zizula hylax: Bipolo. One of the worlds most widespread butterflies. Common Hedge Blue Acytolepis puspa: Pagal. Club Beak Libythea myrrha: Pagal. Blue Tiger Tirumala hamata: Kisol. Striped Tiger Danaus genutia: Kisol. Plain Tiger Danaus chrysippus: Bipolo. Common Evening Brown Melanitis leda: Camplong. Nigger Orsotriaena medus: Watumbelar. Cruiser Vindula erota: Kisol. Common Sailer Neptis hylas: Watumbelar, Pan Muti, Gunung Mutis, Kisol. Blue Pansy Junonia orithiya: Watumbelar, Gunung Mutis, Kisol. Chocolate Pansy Junonia iphita: Watumbelar, Kisol. Grey Pansy Junonia atlites: Watumbelar, Bipolo. Peacock Pansy Junonia almana: Watumbelar. DRAGONFLIES Common Bluetail Ischnura senegalensis: Lake Rana Mese. Blue-headed Sprite Pseudagrion australasiae: Camplong. Pale-spotted Emperor Anax guttatus: Pagal & Lake Rana Mese. Female seen ovipositing at latter site. Asian Pintail Acisoma panorpoides: Watumbelar, Bipolo. Asian Amberwing Brachythemis contaminata: Bipolo. Scarlet Skimmer Crocothemis servilia: Bipolo, Camplong. Painted Grasshawk Neurothemis stigmatizans: Camplong, Kisol. Red-faced Dropwing Orthetrum chrysis: Kisol. Probably also this at Watumbelar, Camplong. Common Blue Skimmer Orthetrum glaucum: Watumbelar. Slender Skimmer Orthertrum sabina: Bipolo. Dancing Dropwing Trithemis pallidinervis: Watumbelar. 22 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 The endemic Citron-crested Cockatoo was relatively easy to see on Sumba this year Watumbelar is a prime site for Citron-crested Cockatoo and other Sumba endemics A roosting Barn Owl of the endemic Sumba race sumbaensis 23 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 A number of Cinnamon-banded Kingfishers were seen this year Five Australian Pelicans were at Pan Muti, Timor We were lucky to find a new spot for Pink-headed Imperial-pigeon on Timor… 24 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 ….and Olive-shouldered Parrot showed well there too. Rainbow Bee-eaters delighted at Bipolo, Timor. About 50 Timor Sparrows were found at Bipolo 25 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 Barred-necked Cuckoo-dove was scoped at Oelnasi, Timor….. ….as was the often shy Timor Black Pigeon. We hiked to the base of the cone of Gunung Mutis, Timor. 26 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 Bare-throated Whistlers sang their hearts out on Flores. A surprisingly immobile Sunda Pygmy Woodpecker. Displaying male Little Pied Flycatcher on Flores 27 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 No caption necessary Great to see ‘safe’ Yellow-crested Cockatoos on Komodo Our guides tracked-down some Orange-footed Scrubfowl 28 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009 Green Imperial Pigeons are abundant on Komodo….. ……as are Barred Doves. 29 Birdquest: The Lesser Sundas 2009
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