Cameo Silhouette Brooch

Transcription

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Cameo Silhouette Brooch: A Doll Project Tutorial
©2012 Jessica Hamilton, www.dollproject.com
Cameo Silhouette Brooch
Here is a modern take on a traditional keepsake, cameo silhouette jewelry.
We’ll walk step-by step through how to make your own cameo brooches. In
addition to a brooch, use these same techniques to make earrings, tree
ornaments, personalized art, tiny doll brooches, fascinators for your dolls or
art for a nursery wall. Once you learn how easy it is to make these silhouettes,
nothing can stop you :].
Let’s start with what you’ll need.
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Supplies and Materials
This brooch project is excellent for your left over fabric bits as each pattern
piece needed is smaller than a 3-4” square (10 by 10cm).
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Shrink Plastic—I am using Shrinky Dinks brand frosted Ruff ‘N Ready
Thin cardboard, such as a cereal box
Cotton print fabric, such as quilting fabric
Ultrasuede or felt
Vinyl or thin leather
1.5” Sew-on metal Pin back
Scissors
Pencil & Eraser
White Tacky Glue (I like Crafter’s Pick The Ultimate)
Acrylic Paint & Paint Brush
Needle & Thread
Begin by printing out the Pattern template at the back of this lesson. Print the
pattern at 100% scale. Trace the cameo silhouette onto the rough side of the
shrink plastic.
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Cut out the plastic using sharp
scissors. When cutting out
shrink plastic, you want to
avoid bending the plastic too
much. I have found a wedge or
sliver method works best
when cutting between sharp
details. Rather than turning the
scissors in the sharp corner
areas, you cut both sides of the
outline starting from the outer
edges. Remember too that
because this plastic is see
through, you can flip the piece
over and cut when viewing
from the backside as well.
Use a kneadable eraser to
remove any pencil marks on
the silhouette. Shrink
according to manufacturer’s
instructions.
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Each brooch is made in 5 layers—the plastic cameo silhouette, cotton print
fabric, cardboard insert, ultrasuede or felt, and the vinyl or leather backing
piece. If you cut out all the pattern pieces ahead of time, assembly will go
much smoother.
To cut out small, intricate fabric shapes, I cut the paper pattern out and tape it
down to the fabric with scotch tape. The tape allows for precise cutting
without the
frustrations of
pattern
movement and
distortion.
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If you are
working with a busy cotton
fabric background print such
as the one you see here right,
it may help to cut out a
cardboard window using the
cardboard insert pattern.
Place your cameo piece inside
and determine where you
would like the fabric
background to fall in relation
to the piece. Remember your cameo will be painted, so plan according to final
color.
Here are some possible
fabric color selections.
The cotton prints here
are all from fat
quarters I purchased at
a local quilt shop.
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The cardboard insert is made from two layers of cardboard fused together—
the thinness of the cardboard makes it easy to cut out, but it is too thin to use
as a single layer. Fusing with a layer of glue will help strengthen the insert and
prevent warping when additional glue layers are applied in later steps.
I am using Crafter’s Pick The Ultimate glue. I apply a blob of glue to one side
and then use the second cardboard piece as a spreader to scrape the glue into
an even layer.
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Sandwich the two pieces together and secure with a few clips or small weight.
Once the glue has set, apply an additional thin layer of glue to one side of the
cardboard insert and lay it down onto the back of the cotton print layer. Wipe
off any glue that seeps through and allow this glue to set.
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While the layers are
drying, you can begin
the decorative
stitching on the back
layer. When hand
stitching, I prefer
Silamide beading
thread—this is a
strong, prewaxed
thread that is
resistant to tangling.
Make even blanket stitches (or other decorative stitches) all the way around
the vinyl or leather layer. For a primer in hand stitching, see the end of this
tutorial.
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Apply a layer of glue around the outside of the cardboard insert.
Fold the cotton print fabric up over the edges of the cardboard—pull snuggly
and push firmly to keep the front side as smooth as possible.
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Here is a view of the back and front sides of the fabric wrapped insert:
Stitch your felt or ultrasuede piece onto the vinyl/leather backing piece.
Below, I used a whip stitch in red thread. I used a dot of glue to hold the suede
in place when stitching. Use a small amount of glue to secure your metal pin
back to the back of the piece. Next, secure the pin back with strong thread—I
am still using Silamide.
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Apply glue to the back of the cardboard insert. Make sure the layer of glue
reaches the outer fabric edges to provide additional strength to the previously
glued edges.
Clip or weigh down the piece while the glue dries. Make sure the layers are all
flat without bending or distortion.
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Here is a back view of
the brooch all stitched
and clamped. In the
pattern section of this
tutorial, you will see I
have included a small
pattern for a brooch
back cover—this is to
help cover the center
of the pin back as well
as some of the hand
knotting. Use glue to
apply this cover. The
hole should feed over the hinge portion of the pin back. Another technique
you can use to help hide stitching is to use a thin layer of acrylic paint on the
back of your pin. Using paint in the same shade as the outer stitching is
easiest.
Use acrylic paint and a brush to color your cameo in a coordinating shade.
Apply paint to the rough side, not the shiny side of the plastic. Some paints
will require two coats and some one—it depends on the thickness of the paint.
Allow the paint to dry in between layers.
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Use a sharp blade to score the backside (the shiny side) of your cameos. This
scoring will help the glue set and stick. Apply a layer of glue to the back and
then center and glue the silhouette down onto the brooch layers.
Here you go! It’s easy to build a collection!
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Okay, now here is the cool part about these
brooches—you can use any silhouette!
This is my 5 year old niece, Rowan.
Take a side profile picture and shrink it
down to fit within a space of about 4 by 2
inches. This picture was proportionately
wider than 2 by 4, so I resized using the
width measurement.
Print the image out and use a colored
pencil or marker to draw in the outlines.
Trace these onto the shrink plastic.
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You can add extra layers for things like hair or clothing—it’s just tracing!
Here are two quick versions of little Rowan ready to be made into brooches!
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You can also play with trims and background materials—add or subtract
layers. The brooch below left features a background made of the same shrink
plastic which I doodled on with colored pencils and cut into a large oval.
This is a Doll Project Tutorial from Jessica Hamilton
This Cameo Silhouette Brooch project is a free download for Doll Project enewsletter subscribers. If you are not a subscriber and would like to join my
free email newsletter list, you can sign up at http://dollproject.com :]. Receive
new projects the first Friday of every month.
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Copyright and Usage
© 2012 Jessica Hamilton, dba Doll Project
All rights reserved. No part of this tutorial may be reproduced or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise
without prior written permission of Jessica Hamilton. All patterns are original
designs created by Jessica Hamilton.
Purchaser may sell the brooches or other cameo silhouette projects created
using this tutorial without restriction as long as it is the purchaser making the
product (not a factory).
Hand Sewing References
For help with basic sewing stitches, here are a few websites you can check out
(these are not my websites—I have no affiliation with the creators). You can
also search Google for the name of the stitch and get lots of helpful resources.
Blanket Stitch
http://www.futuregirl.com/craft_blog/2007/09/tutorial-hand-sew-felt.aspx
Back Stitch
http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/05/part-4-of-hand-sewing-for-hand-knitters.html
Whip Stitch
http://www.futuregirl.com/craft_blog/2007/01/tutorial-hand-sew-felt.aspx/
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Additional Tips & Information for Using Shrink Plastic
It is important to read the manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations
prior to using shrink plastic.
Most brands and models of plastic do not shrink at the same rate. If you use a
ruler to draw a life size ruler onto the plastic and then shrink it, you will have
a good reference point for the amount of shrink you can expect. Use your new
shrunken ruler to determine how large to make your pieces at full scale.
Shrink plastic definitely has a grain—I usually work in portrait orientation
with all objects at a 90 degree angle (straight up and down). The height will
shrink at a different rate than the width, so if your object is not at a right angle
to the edge of the plastic, it will probably come out distorted.
Keep a few wooden sticks or knitting needles beside your oven so you can
reach in and move or tease items while they are baking. (This will help
discourage you from using your fingers). If your item starts curling when
shrinking, that is normal—give it time to flatten out on its own. If it appears to
be finished shrinking, but is still folded or bent on itself, gently pull the piece
out and use the sticks to gently pry the stuck pieces apart—then put them
back in the oven to flatten out. Sometimes you have to do this a few times for
the same piece.
Some things to consider if you plan to work with a lot of shrink plastic—I bake
in a small convection oven on a piece of Silpat silicon mat—it works like a
dream—the shrink plastic does not fuse, stick or get caught up on it while
baking, so it helps the plastic shrink more evenly. The mat can be used over
and over again, unlike papers, which will scorch if used too many times. I
bought a large mat and cut it in half—I keep the other half outside the oven to
flatten any curved pieces when they come out of the oven—again, the silicon
won’t stick, so your designs are safe even on the hot melty plastic. Any flat
silicon mats should work. You can also sandwich pieces between the mats to
bake so they are more likely to shrink flat.
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Use sharp scissors when cutting shrink plastic. Sharper scissors will give you
cleaner cuts and cause less cracking/splintering on the edges. I use a pair of
Fiskars titanium nitride scissors (they were my ‘nice’ scissors before I got my
Kai set a few years back). For cutting any hollow designs into your shapes, a
hand held blade works best. Punches work well too if you have the shape you
need and the design is close enough to the edge.
Make sure you watch your shrink plastic closely at the end of the bake—it can
burn if left in too long or if the oven is hot. Once I spent several hours making
tiny hands and baked about 40 of them at once—I left them in too long at 300
degrees and I came back to a blobby melted little grave yard. ;/
It is important to remember that any coloring or pigment you add to your
piece is going to be highly concentrated once it shrinks. When I am applying
the pencils and pigment, it may look very pale and sparse, but once the pieces
bake, you will see the color really fills in. Likewise, with printed files, the ink is
set at 60% normal strength to allow for concentrated pigment. If you are
unsure whether your pigments and/or markings will come out too dark or too
faint, make some test marks on a small piece of shrink plastic and shrink it
down to assess the colors before starting your project.
Lastly—sometimes you try everything and the shrinking just doesn’t go as
planned. Always have extra sheets for your project, just in case :].
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Brooch Patterns – Print at 100% Scale

Cameo Silhouette Brooch

Transcription

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