WALK TORRES DEL PAINE

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WALK TORRES DEL PAINE
WALK TORRES DEL PAINE
An Illustrated Guide
Walking the ‘W’ Route in Torres Del Paine National Park
A walker’s introduction to the W Route
One of the amazing walks in Patagonia’s
Torres del Paine National Park.
Almis Simans
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CONTENTS
........................................................................... 7
WHY THIS BOOK WAS WRITTEN ........................................................... 7
WILDERNESS WALKING AND YOU................................................. 9
WHERE IN THE WORLD IS TORRES DEL PAINE? ........................... 10
ITINERARY OVERVIEW ................................................................. 12
REMEMBER TO TAKE ................................................................... 13
THE JOURNEY .............................................................................. 14
DAY 2: PUNTA ARENAS TO PUERTO NATALES ............................ 20
DAY 3: TRANSFER TO TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK ........ 26
TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK........................................... 29
DAY 4: REFUGIO LAGO GREY TO LODGE PAINE GRANDE ............ 37
DAY 5: LODGE PAINE GRANDE – REFUGIO CUERNOS ................. 41
DAY 6: REFUGIO CUERNOS – REFUGIO CHILENO ........................ 55
DAY 7: THE TOWERS .................................................................... 65
DAY 8: PUERTO NATALES – PUNTA ARENAS ............................... 76
PRACTICAL WALKER – TORRES DEL PAINE ................................... 78
1. GETTING THERE AND AROUND................................................ 78
TO PUNTA ARENAS ...................................................................... 78
TO PUERTO NATALES ................................................................... 78
TO TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK ..................................... 78
RETURN ........................................................................................ 78
MAKE IT EASY............................................................................... 78
2. ACCOMMODATION AND TRANSFERS ...................................... 78
3. HOW DO I PREPARE FOR THE WALK? ...................................... 79
WALKING TRAINING .................................................................... 79
SUGGESTED EXPERIENCE LEVEL .................................................. 79
PLAN WHEN TO GO ...................................................................... 79
WEATHER ..................................................................................... 79
LANGUAGE ................................................................................... 79
READING AS PREPARATION......................................................... 79
4. WHAT TO TAKE: ...................................................................... 80
IF CAMPING - ADD THE FOLLOWING .................................................. 81
SUITABLE CLOTHING .................................................................... 82
FEET .............................................................................................. 83
FIRST AID:..................................................................................... 83
GUIDE BOOKS, MAPS: ................................................................. 83
5. WALKING IN TORRES DEL PAINE .............................................. 84
PARK ENTRANCE FEES.................................................................. 84
SAFETY ......................................................................................... 84
DISTANCES ................................................................................... 84
FOLLOW THE CLEAR MARKINGS OF THE W ROUTE ..................... 84
WILL I GET LOST? .......................................................................... 84
LAUNDRY ..................................................................................... 84
FOOD ............................................................................................ 85
WATER ......................................................................................... 85
MONEY ......................................................................................... 85
TORRES DEL PAINE ‘W’ CIRCUIT - PROFILE FOR WALKERS ........... 86
RECOMMENDED READING: ......................................................... 87
MORE IN THE WALK AND TRAVEL SERIES .............................. 88
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ITINERARY OVERVIEW
Day 1
Punta Arenas
Day 5
Walk to Refugio Cuernos
24km
Day 2
Puerto Natales
Day 6
Walk to Refugio Chilenos
12km
Day 3
Travel to Lago Grey refugio
Day 7
Walk to Torres del Paine
10km
Day 4
Walk to Lodge Paine Grande
Day 8
Travel to Punta Arenas
11km
PATAGONIA
Patagonia is a geographic region containing the southernmost portion of South America.
Located in Argentina and Chile, it comprises the southernmost portion of the Andes
Mountains to the west and south, the plateaux and low plains to the east.
East of the Andes, it lies south of the Colorado River. Westwards, it includes the
territories south of 39º except for the Chiloé Archipelago.
The name Patagonia comes from the word patagón used by Magellan to describe the
native people whom his expedition thought to be giants. It is now believed the Patagons
were actually Tehuelches with an average height of 1.80 m (5′11″) compared to the 1.55
m (5′1″) average for Spaniards of the time.
Patagonia is the orange area shown on the map
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THE JOURNEY
DAY 1: PUNTA ARENAS, CHILE
January: Santiago – Puerto Montt – Punta Arenas
We had spent the last week in Argentina and visited the
Iguassu Falls, quite remarkable. We then flew to Santiago in
Chile to go on one of the World’s Great Walks – the ‘W’ circuit
in Chile’s Torres Del Paine National Park. We alighted at
Chile’s Santiago airport. Being in Chile felt very different from
Argentina.
Santiago Airport
We boarded the flight to Punta Arenas via Puerto Montt. At Punta Arenas
airport there was a large topographic poster which shows in graphic
detail the whole terrain of the park. I would have liked to obtain a copy
of it. Perhaps I’ll get one after we complete the walk.
We caught the bus which took us into the centre of Punta Arenas and
wheeled our luggage to the Plaza Hotel, just across from the town’s main
square – the Plaza. Once checked in we had to carry our luggage up the
stairs as there was no lift. The room was cosy enough with a heater for
the cold nights. After unpacking we decided to take a walk around town
before settling in for the evening.
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Accommodation in Punta Arenas
DAY 3: TRANSFER TO TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK
Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine National Park
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Torres Del Paine National Park section
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DAY 4: REFUGIO LAGO GREY TO LODGE PAINE GRANDE
Icebergs on Lago Grey
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11km 4 HRS
Day 4: Refugio Grey to Lodge Paine Grande
Well, this was it. The first day of walking along the
famous ‘W’ route. The trail followed the shoreline for
some way, providing great views. Icebergs floating on
the lake, birds flying above.
Some of the views reminded me of pictures I had seen
of walkers in Switzerland. Although the sun was out,
there was a stiff breeze and whenever a cloud covered
the sun, the temperature dropped. We used the
layered clothing principle – see below.
There was a lot of up and down walking, so our legs
became quite sore, but the panoramic views were well
worth it. We met a family from America who had
engaged a guide to lead them on the full Paine Circuit
(8 days). They were on their fourth day. It took us
about four hours to reach Paine Grande Lodge, a sight
for sore eyes. The American family arrived soon after
and pitched their tents outside in the camping area.
Today’s walk (blue dots)
Layered clothing is the best way to handle different walking conditions. I usually
walked with a synthetic T-shirt and a woolen vest and shorts. When it got cold I
put on my goretex coat and a beanie which covered my eartips. In terms of body
heat loss we radiate 40% through our torsos, 20% through our legs, another 20%
through our arms and the final 20% through our scalps.
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DAY 6: REFUGIO CUERNOS – REFUGIO CHILENO
Breakfast at Refugio Cuernos
12km
5 HRS
Huasos – Chilean gauchos
Day 6: Refugio Cuernos to Refugio Chileno
Cuernos was a very busy place and seemed to be run quite efficiently. We joined Mike,
Matt and Liz for a breakfast of pancakes, scrambled eggs and bread and jam. Apple juice,
coffee and tea as well. We ordered lunch packs again. These lunches are sufficient for
heavy duty walkers.
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Bridge to Refugio Chileno
Chilean huasos unpacking supplies
We descended to the fast flowing river, crossed a swaying suspension bridge and arrived at Chileno.
Chileno was the largest of the traditional refugios. We took our packs off, removed our boots, placing them on the
wooden pegs provided and entered Chileno. Great! Such a small kitchen to feed so many.
Outside there were Chilean gauchos – huasos, who had just brought in supplies carried by their pack horses. This
was the only way of bringing in or taking out heavier materials. Chileno was the most picturesquely located hostal of
them all.
That evening we took photos of our doppelganger movie stars. There was Richard Gere, Madonna. Susan Sarandon,
Rosanna Arquette, Al Pacino, a young Jack Nicholson, Shirley Maclaine and Franco Nero.
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Hosteria Las Torres
Matt, Carol, Mike, Almis and Liz
Although a little puffed, we made it to Hosteria Las Torres in time to catch the courtesy bus to the Laguna Amarga
Guarderia along with Mike, Matt and Liz. From there we took the 3pm bus to Puerto Natales.
On the bus we could stretch out, knowing that the great walk was over. We met Han and Margaret, a Dutch couple
who had also just completed the ‘W’. Han is an occasional tour guide for a large travel company, with over 500
different tours every year. Impressive.
Back in Puerto Natales we checked in to our hotel and washed up. We walked into town to meet Mike, Matt and Liz
near a restored steam train in the town’s central plaza. Now for a good dinner. There were a couple of restaurants to
choose from. We all felt like Pizza. So we re-visited the same pizza place that Carol and I had eaten in a few days ago.
With glasses of Chilean wines and local beers we celebrated a successful adventure.
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3. HOW DO I PREPARE FOR THE WALK?
WALKING TRAINING:
This journey involves walking almost every day, so a reasonable level of fitness is required. The best preparation is to begin
at least six weeks before departure and walk for at least 2 hours per day for 4 days a week and as many day walks as you can
manage. This will let your body become accustomed to walking longer distances. Try joining a local walking club.
SUGGESTED EXPERIENCE LEVEL
Walkers should have some experience with rough country, and climbers must have experience with ice and snow climbing.
Be prepared for bad weather to interrupt your itinerary. Flexible planning is necessary.
PLAN WHEN TO GO:
The thing about travel is that any time is the right time. It’s just that you will have different experiences. Torres Del Paine
National Park is open all year round; however, the best season to visit the park, is from October to April, which is Spring
and Summer in the southern hemisphere. This season has more sunny days with less rain and more than 16 hours of natural
light as a result of the southerly latitude.
WEATHER
The weather in Torres del Paine Park, even in summer, is changeable and unpredictable. Wind is always prevalent. Rain,
sleet and snow can follow a day of bright sunshine in spring or early summer. Even in summer, there are strong winds (up to
80 km/hr) and rainfall. The average temperature in summer averages around 11ºC/ 52ºF (24 ºC max, 2ºC min). During
summer, there are 18 hours of daylight which gives you plenty of time for walking and enjoying the views. The autumn
months are a good time to visit the park. Torres del Paine National Park is an all-season destination and is open all year.
Winter walkers must be prepared for extreme weather.
LANGUAGE:
Chile's official language is Spanish. Most tour companies have staff members who speak English and other languages. Chile
is a good opportunity to learn or practice your Spanish. In the Torres del Paine area, you will be able to find guides that
speak your language or may even be your fellow countrymen or women.
READING AS PREPARATION: Reading about the history and other walkers’ experiences in Torres Del Paine National park
will give you a greater appreciation for your own journey and will prepare you somewhat for your challenges.
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5. WALKING IN TORRES DEL PAINE
PARK ENTRANCE FEES
High Season: The fee for foreigners is $ 15.000 Chilean pesos (USD $28),
Low Season: $ 5000 (USD $13) This is a one-time fee regardless of how long you stay.
For further information, contact CONAF (Chile's National Forestry Commission), www.conaf.cl, Regional Telephone (5661) 247845.
SAFETY
The Torres del Paine area is particularly safe. You will find Chilean Police posts and Park Ranger offices in all sectors.
Teléfonos útiles: Police: From any phone 133 www.carabinerosdechile.cl Conaf: (56-61) 247845 www.conaf.cl
DISTANCES
The average distance is 10 to 22km a day. That’s about 4-5km per hour. Your body will let you know the distances suitable
for it. Don’t overdo it, as there’s no need to rush, unless you strike particularly bad weather. In that case you will probably
making slower progress anyway.
FOLLOW THE CLEAR MARKINGS OF THE W ROUTE
These markers indicate the route which is also marked on the map you receive as part of the park entrance ticket.
WILL I GET LOST?
The route follows the clearly marked walking trail. The signposting along most of the ‘W’ is good. The detailed map which
you receive with your park entrance ticket is suitable.
LAUNDRY
Hand wash the day’s undies, socks and shirt every night. After rinsing the items, squeeze as much water out of them as
possible and roll them in a towel to absorb more water. The refugios provide a minimal laundry service. Most of it will dry
during the night. The rest you can clip to the outside of your pack and let the sun finish the job. Travel stores stock a
concentrated liquid laundry soap which makes the job easier.
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