a sample - Wolverine Publishing

Chapter
17
Lose your perception of J-Tree
being an endless sea of decomposing dummy domes
and dunce eggs. Instead, picture a place painted in hues of
black-gold, caramel-cream, and orange-mocha frappuccino!
Well, maybe not that last one,
but the rock does have a luscious quality about it,
with dense patinas and glassy smooth features that just seem to drip off
the walls. The cave and corridor-like nature of the location is reminiscent
of the Ice Caves in Bishop or, dare I even say it like Hueco. I’ll just put it out there!
The Heart of the Universe
This is adventure bouldering at its finest, delving into the
heart of remoteness and into the backcountry of Queen Mountain the Underground, the boulders encountered on the approach to the
Underground, and its sister-locale - The Cactus Patch. Both areas
can be found on the tiers lining the crag called Walt’s Rocks, tucked
away on a hillside behind Queen Mountain proper. The approach
is long, but the hike is one of JT’s best, traversing some of the most
beautiful and pristine landscapes in the Park, from the commanding
view at the Watchtower, to the dense and remote pinyon pine forests
on Queen Mountain’s north face. Most of the Underground lies atop
a dome of pure rock, which is not-only erosion and usage resistent,
but also makes for a clean and debris-free experience.
Miramontes Photography
This is Bighorn country, and all of the land here is day
use only areas. Please see the section on
“Day Use Areas” for the rules and
regulations in these specially protected
areas; remember that infractions here
(littering, disturbing wildlife, altering
landscape) carry much stiffer penalties.
There are even laws about noise levels and
disruptive behaviors, so, when sending, try
to keep the wailing allez, zot’s, and
f-bombs down to a loud whisper!!
286
17. The Underground
Overview
287
Upper Walt’s Rock
The Underground
Three Pillars
Lower Walt’s Rock
Nexus Boulders
The Cactus Patch
Fork in the Road
Bo ulders
Walt’s Rocks
Trail
View of Walt’s Rocks from the approach
Whenever entering this region of JT, please tread with a heightened
sense of repect for the environment and keep impact to an absolute
minimal. Thus far, the Underground has remained pristine, even after
over a decade of bouldering activity – please strive to keep it this way!
Luckily for us boulderers, rock art is nearly devoid on the overhangs
at the Underground. There is one rock art-related closure to note
though - Wormholes.
Not much to do here, except – the giddy jugs on Kentucky Fried Christ
(and the view), the clean-cut edges of Slander, the epic Androids, the
sweeping red wall and tile-edges of Oldskool Vibe, the punchy overhang
Blue, the tile-edged roof Blood Drive, the ultra-smooth roof crack
Presence, Body and Soul, time out for 4:20, a deadpoint devination with
insane flakes on Divine Intervention, epic “roof to highballing” on Roasted
and Raw, EVERYTHING on Eclipse Boulder (with an extra shout out for
Darkmatter), the sensational Have a Cigar, and the exquisite tile-edge
crimps of Hot Rats.
super secret shortcut
To Watchtower
Approach
To Watchtower
Now for the bad news: this approach can be done in 1 hour if you have
it dialed and you’re moving, but typically it takes most 1.5hrs - and that’s
IF you don’t get lost! Distance is about 2.5mi, with an elevation gain of
about 1000ft, and involves several Class 3 scrambles. From the Queen
Mtn. parking loop (34.035066,-116.107914), go north, following a well traveled sandy
wash that turns into an old dirt road. Follow the road for approximately
1mi as it passes over a small hill and winds towards the mountain, bending
to the right at the base and ending at a loop (the old parking lot). A large
cairn marks the trail heading east out of the old loop. Follow the trail as
it angles uphill and heads up a steep gully. Just before the top of the
gully, branch left to an upper plateau; follow the plateau for 300yds as
it angles uphill towards the obvious Watchtower. From The Watchtower,
follow a faint trail that leads to the right (N), up over the summit. Walk
down the back side, veering to the right and towards a gully (Walt’s Rocks
should come into view at this point), cross the canyon high up by the
cliffs, then walk across an open area of dirt, the trail becomes obvious
from here on. When you start descending, turn sharp right and continue
288
17. The Underground
Nowhere
e
T h
var.
3
289
The Cactus Patch
var.
U
2
p
5
p
4
U
Inner Circle
6
W
r
a
l
g
t
r
u
’ s
o
n
c
’
o
t
k
s
R
J. Browning
Climb the obvious crack line going out the roof, traversing right
along the roof on killer jugs, and finishing up a vertical crack.
14ft tall with an uneven landing.
5 All Along the Watchtower v1
Start at the V-Nothings and traverse right along a horizontal
crack for 12ft before topping out. 10ft tall with uneven base.
6 Electric Church v3HH R J. Browning
Start at a low jug and move up left through a bulge on slopers,
linking into a juggy crack over a roof. 14ft tall with an uneven
landing.
o
c
k
v5
18
Nexus
Boulders
The Cactus Patch
Developed by Louie Anderson as
a warm-up routine for redpointing
his mega-classic hard route Survivor
(5.13c, 14 bolts, 120ft), located at
the mouth of the Underground
R
d
Start at a low sidepull and climb jugs and moving into a huge
flake on the right. 15ft tall.
Three Pillars
l
R. Miramontes
a
• • • 1 Voodoo Chile v5H R. Miramontes
Start on the left side of a long rail (by a yucca), traverse right
under the bulge, then surmount the bulge. 10ft tall.
2 Left V-Nothing v0+HH R. Miramontes
Start at a low sidepull and climb the shiny brown face up and
left on bomber jugs. 12ft tall.
3 Right V-Nothing v0+HH
The
Cactus
Patch
W
Nearing the summit of Queen
Mountain on the approach to the
Underground lies this beautiful
boulder, a preview of what is to
come. Sitting atop the Watchtower
is one of the finest views in all of
Josh. See beginning of chapter
for the directions.
• • • r
116.103164)
4 Kentucky Fried Christ v2HHH
Stone Garden
e
The Watchtower (34.049944,-
e
w
diagonally and sideways across the mountain until you reach a steep rocky
gully (see super secret approach). At this point, the trail heads down the
steep gully to its base, and then turns right and goes back uphill to the
Fork in the Road Boulder. Head left on the lower tier for the Cactus Patch.
For the Underground, ascend the steep rocky gully behind the “Fork in
the Road Boulder”. Look for the obvious Nexus Boulder at the top of
the gully. From there, head left (N) and follow along the top of the lower
cliffband. After about 200yds the Three Pillars Area will be encountered,
with the main Underground about another 150yds farther along.
r
d
o
The Watchtower
e
n
L
1
The Underground
Area
Fork
in the
Road
To Civilization
290
17. The Underground
•
•
• • •
•
• • • Boulder
7 Unnamed v4HH L. Anderson
Low start, then up patina edges.
8 Unnamed v2HH Patina edges.
9 Unnamed v1H Patina edges.
Fin 1
10 Unnamed v0HH Overhanging fin. Good for back and forth laps.
Climber: Christina Pilo
Miramontes Photography
Blood Drive v11HH
Bloody hell! This short but sweet problem climbs out a nearroof of stunning red-orange and gold patina. Yabo start at a
large and thin flake, move left on small edges to an undercling,
then punch to the knobby lip. 8ft tall. See page 297 for details.
291
The Cactus Patch
Chasm. The boulders are
found along the base of
Lower Walt’s Rock, near the
entrance to the Underground
Chasm. Only a handful of
problems are listed, but there
is much more potential here.
See beginning of chapter for
directions. From the Fork in
the Road Boulder, head left
and walk along the base of the
cliffband for approximately
250yds. Scramble up into
large boulders to reach the
area. Incidently, there are no
established problems at the
Fork in the Road Boulder(s),
although there is potential.
Fin 2
11 Unnamed v0H Overhanging fin.
12 Unnamed v3HH L. Anderson
Low start up features on orange face.
13 Unnamed v1H Overhanging fin.
Boulder
14 Unnamed v0HH L. Anderson
Clean, blocky slab.
Slander Boulder
(34.059282,-116.103419)
15 Slander v8HHH L. Anderson
Amazing edges and crimps on white face. Lip slopers to hidden
topout jug.
The
Underground
Chasm
The
Cactus
Patch
v6
17
v6
16
15
v8
14 v0
13 v1
9
11
10
v0
12
v3
v1
v2
8
7
v4
v0
• • To
Civilization
16 Greased Lightning v6HH
L. Anderson
Traverse left on sloping rail to sloper topout.
Boulder (34.059379,-116.103411)
17 Hallelujah v6HH L. Anderson
Steep arête and right hand sidepulls.
The Underground
Located on the middle tier between
the two cliff bands of Walt’s Rocks.
See beginning of chapter for
directions.
Nexus Boulders (34.058184,-116.101008)
These large boulders are found at
the top of the final gully leading
to the Underground. Only one
problem has been done, but there is
potential for more. “Androids” is the
striking diagonal crack line seen on
the approach. See map 289.
v0
102
294
17. The Underground
v4
Cliff Edge
v1
101
v4
98 99 100
v0
v3
v2
Many easy/moderate problems can be found
here, and hence is a good place to warm-up.
It’s also a good place to stay warm, as it’s the
warmest locale at the Underground.
97
v3
84 v5
.7
v0
v3
93
92
v1
89
90
v0
91
85
v0
v8
v8
?
v4
v2
v1
Dimholt Road
Cliff Edge
67
66
65
v0
v2
63
v2
Crack, patina plates, and knobs. 14ft tall.
Climbs a vertical face with nice patina edges. 15ft tall.
3 Footlong Kushbong v0-HH R. Miramontes
80 v2
Nice patina edges and knobs. 15ft tall.
4 Unnamed v3
Yabo start and climb the short overhang on gritty plates. 10ft tall.
78
v4
74 v4
72
70
71
v5
.8
v0
.7
59
v3
.8
64
62
v6
v1
9
61
58
v8
60
55 56v4
54
?
v5
v1
v0
73 v8
53
v4
7
8
6
5
v3
43
44
45
v4 46
v9
v5
?
?
50
49
52
51
10
v8
47 48
v5
42
v3
v5
v2
v7
40
39 v5
Zen
Rock
Garden
38
41
v9
37
34
v4
29
v4
36 v7
30
31
v1 23
v5
22
v11
The Underground
Chasm
v6
v2
12
.7
To the Heart of the
Universe
V1 Boulder
27 28
26 .9 v1
v0
v5
20
19
13
V1 Boulder
35 v1
v6 33
v4 32
v5
21
Cliff Edge
29
Wormholes,
closed to
climbing
v6
The Stone
Garden
11
30
57
Cliff Edge
•
•
• • 2 Unnamed v1H J. Browning
v9
v1
This set of boulders are found in the bushes to
the right (30yds) of the Kranium Bloc on
the approach.
1 Unnamed v0- J. Browning
81
?
75 76 77
69
86 87 88
v0
v5
v1
v1
v12
v4
83
82
79
68
The Briar Patch (34.059633,-116.102215)
Aggro Fly
Chasm
Jump
113
94
295
The Stone Garden
v0 112
v7
95
Inner Circle
Cliff Edge
v5
104103
106105
110 v5
111
96
v0
v7
v8
v9
v3 107
108
v11
109
v2
To the Vision Quest
To Nowhere
v4
5-9
v6
18
v3
17
10 11
16 v3 v4 v4
15 v3
4
1 v0
2
14
v1
v0
v3
3
v0
Big
Red
To Civilization
Golden Nugget
•
•
•
• Probably the first lines to go up at the Underground.
Good warm ups.
5 V1 Traverse v2 R. Miramontes
Start on a jug, traverse right under the roof and finish on V1 right. 10ft tall.
6 V1 Reverse v1 R. Miramontes
Start at the incuts, traverse left under the roof, finishing up the face. 7ft tall.
7 V1 Left v1HH R. Miramontes
Start at the low incuts and move left out the corner of the roof to a jug , finishing on jugs. 8ft tall.
8 V1 Center v1H R. Miramontes
Start at the low incuts and move straight up on knobby crack. 10ft tall.
296
17. The Underground
• • • •
• • 297
The Stone Garden
18 Misfire v6HH
Scott Sanchez
Yabo start inside the bowl. Gaston/
pinch the undersides of the bowl, fire
out to the jug, then finish Kranium R.
19 Evolution v6HH
29
14
12
19
22
31
15
11
23
To Zen
Garden
Kranium Bloc and Vicinity
10
20
16
17
19
15
22
20
21
19
Start at Breezy, traverse the middle of
the face to a horizontal seam. Follow
the seam (low) around the corner to
jugs, climb Kranium Right, and finish
Greased Pig.
20 Greased Pig
Variation v4 R.Miramontes
Climb Jack’s Traverse but continue under the two boulders and
onto the ramp.
The Heart of the Universe
Medula Oblongata
13
14
24
R. Miramontes
30
13
25
• • • 9 V1 Right v1H R. Miramontes
Start at incuts 4ft up, move left to a hollow plate, then up to
sweet jugs. 10ft tall.
10 If Only I Had a Life v4H
R. Miramontes
Yabo start at the arête and pull thin crimps, slightly right, up
the vertical face. 10ft tall.
11 Browning Traverse v4 J. Browning
A 25ft traverse along a juggy, horizontal crack with a pumpy
finish. 10ft tall with bushes and such to land in.
Kranium Bloc (34.059573,-116.102494)
This and the following several
boulders form a small alcove, with
a hidden corridor leading through
the Zen Rock Garden and out
onto the outer decks of the Inner
Circle and Nowhere.
26
The Heart of the Universe
27
28
(34.059286,-116.102947)
18
Kranium Bloc
21 Blood Drive v11HH Ian McIntosh
See page 290 for photo and description.
22 Intruder v5HH S. Sanchez
Yabo start at a large flake and crank right out the short 50-degree
hang on very-incut flakes. Short but excellent. 8ft tall.
23 Another Stupid Traverse v1 J. Hargis
Yabo start and traverse left along the juggy lip 12ft.
•
• • • •
• 12 Breezy .7
Incut plates and flakes. 9ft tall.
13 Jack’s Traverse v2H J. Hargis
A 30ft traverse starting at Breezy, climbing high on the boulder,
and traversing along the lip at the overhanging finish. Pull over
just before the two boulders intersect, or finish with the pumpy
Greased Pig Var. 9ft tall.
14 Brain Teaser v0
Start right hand on the incut flake, left on the arête. Make a big
move to pointy jugs (ouch!) and over. 9ft tall.
15 Kranium L v3H R. Miramontes
Start at a hueco/ledge, move left to a thin flake, then fire up to
pointy jugs (ouch!). 9ft tall.
16 Kranium C v3 R. Miramontes
Start at the hueco/ledge, crank straight up to the lip. 8ft tall.
17 Kranium R v3H R. Miramontes
Start at the hueco/ledge, move right along a slotted seam,
then up. 7ft tall.
Sitting out on the edge of the cliff to
the west of the Kranium Bloc is the
Heart of the Universe: a swimming
pool-sized hueco with a natural arch/
thread/tunnel. The Heart has been
known to fill completely after big rains,
and a large ice fin was once seen
growing down the middle of the arch.
Several problems have been done
here, all of them short and somewhat
novel. Please respect the pristine and
delicate nature of the arch.
• • 24 The Heart v4HH
Starts at the back of the tunnel, on the north side. Traverse left and
reach out to a hole/hueco in the roof. Transition onto the other side
of the roof and pull out to jugs above the lip of the mouth of the
tunnel. Add another star if the Heart is full of water! 7ft tall.
25 The Swallows Tail v0H
Start in the open part of the hueco and traverses into the mouth of
the tunnel on the left wall, then move across the lip of the tunnel
on big jugs. Add another star if the Heart is full of water! 7ft tall.
Kilroy Cluster
• •
• • Kilroy Cluster
The following problems are found
behind the V1 Boulder.
26 Unnamed v0
Yabo start and climb the odd overhanging arête. Uneven
landing.
27 Unnamed .9
A short, vertical patina face.
28 Kilroy Was Here v1 R. Miramontes
Yabo start on the left side of the small cave and pull small
flakes up a clean face.
Altered States Boulder
(34.059673,-116.10255)
29 Altered States v4HHHH
R. Miramontes
Cruxy moves up a concave face leads to a steep arête with big
plates. Head left along the arête until its possible to mantel
over. Used to go from the yabo (v6), but the starting hold
broke. 25ft tall with a whack landing area.