AMT651 Meyers Manx Instructions Front

THE ORIG I NA L
Meyers
AMT651-200
“Manx”
BASIC ASSEMBLIES
1. ENGINE
FA N S H R O U D (2 pcs.) (C) (To holes)
LEGEND
C O I L (C) (To hole)
9
DUNE BUGGY (DB)
11
S TA R T E R (C) (To right
side of bellhousing)
7
8
O I L F I LT E R (C)
(To block)
13
EXHAUST
C O L L E C TO R
(To exhaust pipe ends
“1”, “2” & “3”)
(1)
(“B” pipe through “A”
pipe, to hole)
3
(2)
(B)
(A)
4
1
F U E L P U M P (To hole)
2 VA LV E C O V E R S
(C) (To heads)
WHEEL OPTION
NOTE: Fan belt must
be at an angle, for
clearance of exhaust
system
E N G I N E B LO C K (2 pcs.)
(C) (Cement together)
3
2 FRONT VINYL TIRES
7
(MX-S)
REAR WHEELS
2 “GOODYEAR ” Hollow
VINYL TIRES
(DB & MX)
2 “GOODYEAR ” DUNE
TIRES (2 pcs.)
R E A R TO R S I O N
S P R I N G (To tab)
17
LO C AT E A S S E M B L E D
F R O N T W H E E L S TO
B A C K I N G P L AT E
NOTE: Open these
two flashed holes
for “DB” version.
2 BUCKET
SEATS (To A)
11
W I N D S H I E L D (Clear)
(To frame)
STEERING
W H E E L (C)
(To pin)
12
8
S T E E R I N G C O LU M N
(Through hole)
5
7
NOTE: Open
flashed hole
F O OT P E DA L S (To hole)
FRONT SUSPENSION UNIT
(Backing plate)
2 F R O N T I N N E R R I M S (C)
2 “CRAGAR
S / S ” M A G S (C)
2 INNER REAR
WHEELS (C)
2 “CRAGAR
S / S ” M A G S (C)
2 INNER REAR
WHEELS (C)
2 “CRAGAR S/S”
M A G S (C)
13
(To roll bar)
FLAG POLE
(To roll bar)
D
B O DY (To chassis)
17
✶
G A S C A P (C)
(To hole)
8
22
19
R E A R W I N D O W (Clear)
(To opening)
R E A R S E AT (3 pcs.)
(To body)
(1)
S T E E R I N G C O LU M N
(Through hole)
H O O D (To body)
2 PA R K I N G
L I G H T S (C)
(To body)
13
(2)
2 H E A D L I G H T S (2 pcs.)
(To body)
(Clear)
R E A R L I C E N S E P L AT E (C)
(To body)
1
(C)
18
B O DY (To chassis)
20
A
21
17
✽
✱
15
✱
B
✱
1
2 B U C K E T SEATS
(To floor pan)
1
2 TA I L L I G H T S (2 pcs.)
(To body)
(C)
(Red)
✳
NOTE: Sand off these engraving lines.
✱
B AT T E R Y
(To floor pan)
3
5
✱
(To cowl bar)
(To rear
suspension)
6
TA C H O M E T E R
(C) (To column)
✳
R O L L B A R / B R A C E (3 pcs.)
(To holes B) (To body C)
A
15
5
(To floor pan)
NOTE: Remove braces if
tonneau cover is to be used.
NOTE: Sand off these
engraving lines.
S T E E R I N G W H E E L (C)
(To pin)
(3)
12
4
TO N N E A U C O V E R
(To body D)
C✳
10
2
(To body)
B AT T E R Y (To body)
COWL BAR/BRACES
(3 pcs.) (To holes)
OPTION
G A S TA N K (2 pcs.) (To opening)
2 B R A K E D R U M S (C)
6
F R O N T B U M P E R (C)
(To holes)
B AT T E R Y (To body)
4
NOTE: If the builder wishes to use
the chrome reversed wheels,
follow the same assembly
procedure used for the
“Cragar” mags.
(To windshield frame)
✽
2
16
S U R R Y TO P
(To windshield frame)
H O O D (To body)
G A S C A P (C)
(To hole)
14
TO P
G A S TA N K (2 pcs.)
(To opening)
3
6
16
DUNE BUGGY
✶
INSTRUMENT
PA N E L (To hood)
NOTE: Open
flashed hole
S T E E R I N G L I N KA G E
14
9
3
2 B U C K E T SEATS
(To A)
2 M I R R O R (C)
(To frame)
7
FRONT LICENSE
P L AT E (C)
(To hood)
11
1
2
LO C AT E A S S E M B L E D
R E A R W H E E L S TO A X L E
FINAL ASSEMBLIES
MEYERS
MANX
WINDSHIELD FRAME
(C) (To hood)
NOTE: Open these
two flashed holes for
“MX” and “DB” versions.
16
D E TA I L
4
2 FRONT
SHOCKS
15
✱
14
(To pin)
FRONT
SUSPENSION
UNIT
(To backbone)
1
BAG OF SNAKES EXHAUST
S Y S T E M (4 pcs.)
NOTE: All pipes must be
positioned so ends “1”, “2”
& “3” meet.
3. WHEELS
FRONT WHEELS
2 M E TA L S T U B A X L E S
(Through brake drum to
mag, DO NOT CEMENT)
2
S K I D P L AT E / B U M P E R
(C) (To oil pan)
O I L PA N (C)
(To block)
D I S T R I B U TO R
(To block)
(3)
3
2 REAR SUSPENSION
U N I T S (C) (To pin)
(To backing plate)
(To hole)
7
2
6
CHASSIS BACKBONE
(To floor pan)
STEERING
B OX (To hole)
5
(To hole)
2 CYLINDER
H E A D S (2 pcs.)
(C) (To holes)
5
4
M E TA L A X L E S
(Slide through holes)
(To tab)
8
(To holes on back
sides of heads)
FA N B E LT (C)
(To pin)
✱ (To notch)
23
INSTRUMENT
PA N E L (To hood)
11
6
MEYERS MANX (MX)
12
2 C A R B U R E TO R S
(2 pcs.) (C)
(To holes)
9
6
MEYERS MANX-STREET (MX-S)
G E N E R ATO R (C) (To hole)
10
“STINGER” EXHAUST
(C) (DB & MX)
(To collector)
M U F F L E R (MX-S)
(To collector)
WINDSHIELD WIPERS
(C) (To holes)
13
S T E E R I N G L I N KA G E
(See detail)
5
2. EXHAUST
W I N D S H I E L D (Clear)
(To frame)
10
2 REAR SHOCKS
(To pin)
S H I F T L E V E R ( C ) (To slot)
(To backing plate)
9
WINDSHIELD FRAME
(C) (To hood)
12
10
cement to join parts, and be careful not to smear cement on exposed surfaces.
To duplicate Stock automotive colors using stock aerosol touch-up finishes, use this
procedure:
First, dust on two coats of AMT Clear Lacquer. When completely dry, follow with a
very light coat of touch-up, then apply succeedingly heavier coats until the desired
finish is achieved. It should be noted that these directions must be very carefully
followed, to prevent the usual crazing of the styrene which occurs when automotive
lacquers are applied directly.
Built according to the instructions on this sheet, you should have no trouble
assembling your model. Just FOLLOW THE NUMBERS, as the parts are numbered in the
order of assembly. NOTE: (C) indicates "chrome" parts.
MEYER MANX STREET
NOTE: Position engine and rear suspension units, so the metal axle
will slide through the holes freely.
B R A K E L E V E R ( C ) (To slot)
READ THIS BEFORE YOU BEGIN
This kit may be built more than one way. Look over this instruction sheet carefully
before you begin building. You may decide to combine parts from the different
versions shown, or use parts from other AMT kits. After you’ve planned your car,
f o l l o w the assembly instructions and "test-fit" the parts without cementing. This will
familiarize you with the location of the parts.
For the best results, the various sub-assemblies and components should be painted
before any chrome parts are attached. For example: When attaching non-chrome body
accessories, it is best to cement them in place and paint the body as a unit.
AMT kits are molded from the finest high-impact styrene plastic. Use only paint and
cement made for styrene. Trim excess plastic from parts before joining. When attaching
chrome parts, scrape plating away where parts are to be joined. Use just enough
A S S E M B L E D E N G I N E (To hole) (To spring arms)
4. CHASSIS
(To holes)
9
R O L L B A R / B R A C E (3 pcs.)
10
F L A G P O L E (To roll bar)
4
STEERING
W H E E L (C)
(To pin)
7
G A S C A P (C) (To hole)
2
S T E E R I N G C O LU M N
(To pin)
8
G A S TA N K (2 pcs.)
(To backbone just behind seats)
what is the . . .
The Meyers Manx is all things to all men–the perfect car for
the man who'd rather build his own.
The Mark II was shorter, stiffer, better riding, better
handling, lighter, stronger and cheaper than was the Manx I.
The Meyers Manx is a kit car you can build for $635 plus
old V.W. parts. A fun car that you can license, insure and drive
anywhere, anytime.
Meyers was satisfied, that is, almost satisfied. He had
hoped to sell the Mark II Manx as a complete car as well as in
kit form. He later discovered to his disappointment that the
Volkswagon people sell the little bug as a complete car only
and to assemble each Volkswagon chassis from parts would
be far too costly. So the Mark II Manx is offered in kit form only
with two different kits available. One is a stripped down
version that sells for $498 and consists of a beautifully
finished laminated fiberglass body shell and a front deck lid
and a vacuum formed Cycolac dashboard. The other sells for
$635 and includes the above plus windshield and frame
headlight housings, cowl frame, rear deck covering, aluminum
trim, rubber weather stripping, fender welts and all the necessary hardware.
With the top and side curtains in place it's snug as a bug
and waterproof.
In cold weather you can hook up the heater and make it
warm.
Put snow tires on it and it'll go through a blizzard that would
stop a snowmobile. With super balloon tires it's the perfect
dune buggy.
Equip it with racing tires and it'll outhandle and out-brake
most any sports car.
Bruce F. Meyers, proprietor of F. Meyers and Company, Newport Beach, California, is the originator, designer and builder
of the Meyers Manx.
The Manx, originally designed as a dune buggy, but equally
at home on the pavement, got its start when Meyers, a gifted
fiberglass artist, was looking for new designs to conquer. He
decided on building his own car when he learned that a
Porsche he had purchased was out of alignment because of a
previous accident.
Most dune buggies at that time were very ugly in
appearance–no compound curves–in fact not much of
anything in the way of beauty. So Meyers decided he was
going to make the best looking dune buggy ever and thus the
Manx I was born. It was a full fiberglass "bathtub" carrying
Volkswagon running gear. Many of Meyers' friends, after seeing
the car, wanted copies, so he set up shop in an old garage and
began to produce the Manx I in a kit form that sold for $985.
Meyers soon discovered he was losing money on each car he
produced and decided to redesign the Manx I. The result was
the Mark II which was not a full fiberglass "bathtub," but a
fiberglass body that bolted onto a Volkswagon belly pan.
Whether you purchase the Manx Kit "A" or Kit "B" you are
going to need a Volkswagon 1200 sedan (1961 or later
preferred) floor pan complete with pedal assemble; shift lever
and linkage assembly; hand brake; main brake line and
master cylinder; front axle and steering assembly; rear
transaxle; torsion bar trailing arm assemblies; engine from
any year VW sedan, truck, variant, Porsche or Corvair.
It's cheapest to try and pickup a VW that has been
wrecked, usually a roll over, since this type accident usually
leaves all necessary parts intact.
Ideally suited for the home craftsman on a budget who is able to fabricate the remaining components
shown in Kit “B.” Kit includes basic components: body, hood, dashboard and complete instructions.
The Volkswagon chassis must be shortened 14 inches plus
or minus a 1/4 inch to give an 80 inch wheelbase. This is
done by removing a section of the floor pan (see sketch) with
a torch or chisel and then welded back together again.
Complete step by step instructions for preparing the
Painting of a Manx is not necessary because color is impregnated right into the fiberglass and you can choose from such
wild colors as Red, Tangerine, Royal Blue, Yama Yellow,
Marine Green or Off White.
The Manx is not difficult to assemble and anyone with
average mechanical ability can do the job in a couple of weekends. The complete cost of your Manx is, of course, dependent
on what you pay for the necessary V.W. parts and how far you
want to carry the project–the only limitation being your imagination.
Providing a more complete package for the builder. Kit includes body, hood and dashboard plus all necessary
hardware, including trim, weatherstripping, fenderwelt, spare tire, mounting bracket, battery mounting bracket
and all nuts and bolts.
For example, you can use the V.W. engine for power or you
can switch to a Corvair or Porsche engine, all the way up to
200 H.P. if you wish.
You can install a luxury interior, hardtop, side curtains, mag
wheels, 4 wheel disc brakes, fully adjustable suspension and
racing tires. You can even put an exotic metalflake paint job on
if you wish.
The next two pages show a step by step picture story of how
the Meyers Mark II Manx is assembled.
After the body has been removed the above parts should
remain assembled as a unit on the wheels for ease of
construction.
STOCK VW
RUNNING GEAR
chassis of the Manx are included in the kit.
After the chassis work has been completed the Manx body
is mounted. Wiring harness, brake reservoir, and gas tank are
now installed. Next comes the front and rear body supports
along the with the license plate light.
After this has been completed you are now ready for
installation of the dash frame and dash to the hood and the
installation of the instrumentation in the dash.
Next the hood and dash assembly are attached to the body.
Last but not least is the mounting of the headlights,
steering column, and windshield.
Your Meyers Manx is now about ready to roll unless you
want to add some of the many options that are available.
These include wide rim wheels, upswept exhaust, skid plate,
front and rear bumpers, roll bar, carpeting, and fiberglass top
only to mention a few.
Whether you want a stripped down or deluxe mild or wild
fun car it can all be had with the Meyers Manx.