a PDF copy
Transcription
a PDF copy
JNTO3 COVER_JNTO Supplement 25/02/2013 17:15 Page 1 Essential Japan JNTO3 1 CONTENTS_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 11:00 Page 600 0 300 km 0 Hokkaido Home to vast expanses of unspoilt mountain scenery and abundant wildlife, Hokkaido is a nature-lover’s paradise. Its cool temperate summers bring spectacular blooms of flowers while worldclass ski resorts mean it’s also a great winter destination. 150 miles © Copyright Time Out Group 2013 CHINA Asahikawa Kushiro Hokkaido Chubu The iconic sight of Mt Fuji dominates for miles around, and the panoramic mountains of the Japan Alps provide well-worn hiking trails in the warmer months and fantastic skiing in winter. The Chubu region is also home to the picturesque historic towns of Kanazawa and Takayama. Sapporo Hakodate Tohoku The Tohoku region has its own particular rustic charm, with a slower pace of life, Aomori rich natural beauty and countless hot spring resorts, not to mention the friendly local people. Kanto Home to Tokyo, the Kanto region also boasts cultural attractions such as the ancient capital of Kamakura and the impressive temple complex of Nikko, set among beautiful scenery of lakes and waterfalls. S E A O F Kansai The cultural heart of Japan is its ancient capital of Kyoto, with its many stunning temples and gardens, as well in its even older neighbour Nara. By contrast, the city of Osaka offers a taste of vibrant modern Japan, though it also boasts its own impressive castle, as does the nearby town of Himeji. Akita Tohoku Yamagata J A P A N Niigata Toyama Kanazawa JAPA Takayama Chubu Nagoya Kyoto Matsue Kobe Chugoku Okayama Hiroshima Kansai Sendai Fukushima Chugoku & Shikoku Highlights of the Chugoku region are the city of Hiroshima, where the Memorial Peace Park Nikko is a poignant symbol of Kanto its tragic past, and the nearby island of TOKYO Miyajima, whose shrine N Yokohama is one of the most picturesque sights in Kamakura Japan. The Inland Sea separates this region from Shikoku, Japan’s fourth largest island. Osaka P A C I F I C O C E A N Wakayama Tokushima Matsuyama Fukuoka Kitakyushu Shikoku Kumamoto Nagasaki Okinawa Kyushu Miyazaki Kagoshima Kyushu & Okinawa The southern island of Kyushu offers lush greenery, hot springs and mysterious volcanic formations. Highlights are the charming city of Nagasaki and the volcano Mt Aso. Further south, the tropical island chain of Okinawa boasts amazing coral reefs, white sand beaches and a fascinating cultural heritage that is a mix between Japan and South-east Asia. JNTO3 1 CONTENTS_JNTO Supplement 05/03/2013 11:43 Page 1 Contents Essential Japan Senso-ji, Tokyo Produced by Time Out Guides Ltd Universal House 251 Tottenham Court Road London W1T 7AB Tel +44 (0) 20 7813 3000 Fax +44 (0) 20 7813 6001 email: [email protected] www.timeout.com Supplement Editor Cath Phillips Contributing Writers Tom Baker, Nicholas Coldicott, Robbie Swinnerton Senior Designer Kei Ishimaru Picture Editor Jael Marschner Picture Researcher Ben Rowe Production Controller Katie MulhernBhudia Photography (unless credited otherwise) Japan Ryokan Association, JNTO, TCVB, Tokushima Prefecture Maps JS Graphics, JNTO (Kyoto) Front cover Osaka Castle. TO: 2094-10-12D Time Out Group Chairman & Founder Tony Elliott Chief Executive Officer Aksel Van der Wal © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2013 Tokyo Around Tokyo Kyoto Around Kyoto Nagano Kanazawa & Gifu Seto Inland Sea & Beyond Okinawa Cool Japan Japan for Families Winter Sports Cartoon Culture Annual Events Flying to Japan Getting Around General Information For Tour Operators & Agencies 2 9 11 16 17 18 19 21 22 24 25 26 27 28 30 32 36 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 1 Tokyo JNTO3 2-8 TOKYO_JNTO Supplement 25/02/2013 17:21 Page 2 2 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN JNTO3 2-8 TOKYO_JNTO Supplement 25/02/2013 17:21 Page 3 Tokyo From futuristic skyscrapers to ancient temples. Tokyo ost of the clichés are true. Tokyo is a neonwrapped, hectic playground where Hello Kitty is a deity, trains are never late, vending machines are everywhere, and food doesn’t always lie still on your plate. Ancient and pop culture vie for space (pop culture usually wins), and there’s an insatiable thirst for innovation, which means the Japanese capital always seems a step or two ahead of your imagination. The first time you set foot in the great entertainment and shopping hubs of Ginza, Roppongi, Shibuya or Shinjuku, you’ll be wide-eyed and overwhelmed. Huge liquid-crystal screens blast a cacophony of sounds; bright signs and adverts fill your vision. But there are also oases of high culture and Zen-like calm, often just a few steps from the chaos. In Ginza, for example, you’ll also find the Kabuki-za theatre, showcase for Japan’s famous kabuki dramas, while Shibuya is a stone’s throw from the capital’s largest Shinto shrine. M GETTING AROUND There’s no real centre to Tokyo. Rather, it’s a collection of sub-centres, the most interesting of which are described on the following pages. Although the greater Tokyo metropolis sprawls over a massive area, it’s a remarkably easy place to get around – thanks to one of the most comprehensive and efficient train and subway systems in the world. Japan Railways’ circular Yamanote train line is the best way to orientate yourself. It connects many of the city’s major districts, while other areas are a quick subway ride from one of the big Yamanote line hubs. Most stations have bilingual signs and rail maps, while the metro is virtually idiot-proof thanks to its colour-coded lines and numbered stations. Tokyo is also a great city for walking; distances between areas of interest make using public transport a necessity, but exploring on foot, down tiny local streets and along main thoroughfares, is the best way to get a feel for the distinctive character of the city’s many and varied neighbourhoods. At the Tourist Information Centre (TIC), JNTO near Yurakucho station, you’ll find friendly, multilingual staff and a wealth of information, as well as free maps and literature to help you make the most your time in Japan. Free Wi-Fi is also available. Tourist Information Centre (TIC), JNTO Shin-Tokyo Building 1F, 3-3-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0005 (03 3201 3331). 5 mins from Yurakucho station. Open 9am-5pm daily. Closed 1 Jan. TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 3 Tokyo JNTO3 2-8 TOKYO_JNTO Supplement 25/02/2013 17:21 Page 4 The main torii leading to the Meiji Shrine Ginza Ginza is Tokyo’s smartest neighbourhood. Ladies saunter the wide streets dressed head to toe in luxury brands, shopping for more of the same. Politicians and businessmen on bottomless expense accounts quaff drinks in the company of kimono-clad bar staff. Less affluent types simply come to dream. For Tokyo, the area has unusually wide pavements, which lend themselves to window-shopping, or ‘Ginbura’, (Ginza strolling). On weekends, cars are banned from the main street, Ginza Dori (also called Chuo Dori), to create what is known as hokousha tengoku (pedestrian heaven), and cafés spill out on to the road. Tiny shops selling traditional items such as wagashi (Japanese sweets) and go-boards sit side by side with brand giants such as Gucci and Louis Vuitton. Foreign retail chains choose to have their first Japanese outlets in Ginza before opening up elsewhere. Local landmarks include the Kabuki-za Theatre, which reopened in April 2013 after major reconstruction. Kabuki-za is the main theatre of Japan’s traditional kabuki performance in Tokyo. Designed by the famed Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, the new facility represents Japan’s contemporary creativity and traditional culture. Other buildings worth seeing are the Hermès flagship, a narrow tower made of semitranslucent gold glass bricks designed by Renzo Piano, and the store of famous pearl purveyors Mikimoto, designed by Toyo Ito, with its irregular shaped windows scattered sporadically over the concrete high-rise. The intersection of Ginza Dori and Harumi Dori – known as yon-chome crossing – is the main crossroads in the district. On Harumi Dori is Wako, a venerable watch and jewellery department store famous for its dazzling window displays and clocktower, and facing Wako, on the other side of Ginza Dori, is department store Mitsukoshi; the bronze lion at its entrance is a popular meeting point. Further down down Harumi Dori and right on to Shinohashi Dori is Tsukiji Fish 4 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN Market, one of the world’s largest wholesale markets and one of Tokyo’s unmissable sights. The nearby area of Maranouchi is Tokyo’s central business district. It’s traditionally been a sedate area, but over the past decade has been reinvented as a consumer hotspot, with numerous high-rise shopping and dining complexes popping up. The latest changes are the extensive redevelopment of the Tokyo Station complex, which included restoring the historic 98-yearold Marunouchi side of the station to pre-war condition and vastly expanded shopping and dinning options at Tokyo Station. Worth a stop is Tokyo Okashi Land, Japan’s first confectionery-themed retail zone, with stores operated directly by three of Japan’s top confectioners. Shinjuku Shinjuku is Tokyo’s largest sub-centre and easily the most cosmopolitan area of the city, with luxurious department stores, sleazy strip-clubs and smoky jazz bars all a few blocks from one another. The area is divided into distinct east and west sections by the JR Yamanote and Chuo train lines, with the entertainment and shopping districts to the east and the business and government districts to the west. It’s a major transport hub: in fact, Shinjuku station is the busiest in the world, with two million people passing through daily. The east side is where all the action is. It houses the glitzy neon and hostess bars of Kabuki-cho, Japan’s largest red-light area, as well the gay district of Ni-chome (two-chome) and the colourful bars of San-chome (three-chome). Adjoining is Golden Gai, a collection of tiny watering holes that are a throwback to earlier days. Further east and south of Shinjuku Dori (a major shopping street with numerous large department stores) is the vast green lung of Shinjuku Gyoen, one of Tokyo’s largest parks. It’s a spectacular sight at hanami (cherry blossom viewing), when its 1,500 trees colour the whole place pink. PHOTO: FUMIE SUZUKI/TIME OUT JNTO3 2-8 TOKYO_JNTO Supplement 25/02/2013 17:21 Page 5 tree-lined boulevard crammed with flagship stores designed by the world’s top contemporary architects. Every self-respecting fashion house has an outlet here. Be adventurous and explore the smaller side streets, known as Ura-Harajuku. It is here you’ll find lesser-known, hip Japanese brands and unique cafés. For culture, head to the Nezu Museum with its collection of East Asian artworks and a large traditional Japanese garden. Asakusa Until around 1940, this area adjacent to the eastern bank of the Sumida river was the most exciting and dynamic part of town. Today a sense of faded grandeur still hangs over the neighbourhood, but for the visitor, the greatest Shibuya Tokyo’s youth have made Shibuya their playground, and the shops, cafés, clubs, bars and restaurants largely cater to their tastes – it’s a hotbed of pop culture and lowbrow entertainment that’s fast, fun and affordable. Shopping is Shibuya’s raison d’être, with music and fashion dominating the area’s stores. When darkness falls and the neon is switched on, myriad clubs, bars and cinemas keep the area throbbing through the night. The JR station’s Hachiko exit is the gateway to the area’s attractions. Outside the exit is a small bronze statue of the eponymous Hachiko, a dog of legendary loyalty who walked to Shibuya to meet his owner at the end of each day, then travelled vainly to the station for a further seven years after the old man’s death. Next to the square is the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing, also named Hachiko. With a backdrop of blaring video screens and neon-clad buildings, this is the Tokyo of popular imagination. PHOTO: THE NATIONAL ART CENTER, TOKYO Harajuku Harajuku’s emblematic shopping street is Takeshita Dori, a narrow pedestrianised thoroughfare of small clothes shops and crêpe stands. It starts on the opposite side of the road from quaintly old-fashioned Harajuku station and winds its way to join Meiji Dori; halfway along are some steps leading up to Togo Shrine. Key Harajuku stores include Laforet on the corner of Meiji Dori and Omotesando; a popular meeting spot, it offers five floors of teenybopper shopping heaven. The main nexus of teen Tokyo extends from Takeshita Dori up towards the Meiji Shrine. On the bridge in front of the entrance to the shrine’s Inner Garden, Tokyo’s young hipsters (mainly girls) hang out at weekends in often outrageous cosu-purei (costume play) outfits. The entrance to the Meiji Shrine is through a 36-foot/11-metre torii (gate), the largest in the country, built from 1,600-year-old cypress trees. The huge patch of green is instantly recognisable from observation decks across the city; the serene atmosphere, punctuated by birdsong, is a world away from the mayhem of Harajuku’s shops. Opened in 1920, the shrine is dedicated to Emperor Meiji, whose reign (1868-1912) coincided with Japan’s modernisation. It hosts numerous festivals, including two sumo dedicatory ceremonies in early January and at the end of September, and draws crowds of a million plus at New Year. Keen shoppers should head to the nearby district of Aoyama. The main street here is Omotesando, a Building boom Tokyo isn’t always beautiful, but the city’s architecture has never lacked a wild and creative streak. Mix liberal planning laws with a native love of novelty and the end result is an architectural playground, by turns flamboyant, eccentric and just plain crazy. Here are the city’s latest must-see buildings. Tokyu Plaza Omotesando Harajuku In 2012, Tokyu Plaza Omotesando Harajuku opened around five minutes’ walk from JR Harajuku Station. The castle-like structure topped with tufts of greenery was designed by award-winning architect Hiroshi Nakamura. Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Centre A striking new building designed by Kengo Kuma opened in front of Sensoji temple’s Kaminarimon gate in 2012. The building is the new home of the Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Centre, where you’ll find free tourist information, computers to search for more info and also free Wi-Fi. The roof terrace and café on the eighth floor offer beautiful views of Asakusa and Tokyo Skytree (see pages 6 and 23), Tokyo’s number-one architectural marvel. National Art Center, Tokyo Opened in 2007, the biggest museum in Japan (pictured) – the last major work of Kisho Kurokawa, who died a few months after it opened – has four storeys of undulating glass set in generous grounds. 21_21 Design Sight This design museum in the Midtown complex is the work of Tadao Ando, the reigning star of Japanese architecture, in conjunction with veteran fashion designer Issey Miyake. Composed of two sharp trapezoids, it appears to have been made from a single folded sheet of concrete. TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 5 Tokyo The west side of Shinjuku has a clutch of skyscrapers housing banking, insurance and other company headquarters. The Tokyo government’s headquarters, known as Tocho, are also here. Completed in 1991, the twin-towered centrepiece of this impressive complex is the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building No.1: a must-visit architecturally and for the great – and free – views from its two observation decks. In stark contrast to the gleaming high-rises is Omoide Yokocho, just outside Shinjuku station’s north-west exit. This narrow alleyway lined with ramshackle yakitori stalls and bars, each with seating for no more than a handful of customers, is the last remnant of a vanished world. JNTO3 2-8 TOKYO_JNTO Supplement 25/02/2013 17:21 Page 6 temple complex and its environs that have helped make Asakusa into one of Tokyo’s prime tourist attractions. Also known as Senso-ji, Asakusa Kannon is Tokyo’s oldest temple, with origins, so the remarkably precise story has it, dating to 18 March 628. That was when two brothers fishing on the river caught a two-inch golden statue in their net. It was enshrined in the house of the village headman, and in 645 a hall was built for the icon on the spot where today’s temple stands. The complex also houses a Shinto shrine, Asakusa Jinja, which was established in 1649 to honour the two fishermen and the village headman. In 2012, the tallest freestanding tower in the world opened in Tokyo. At a height of 2,080 feet/634 metres, Tokyo Skytree is the second tallest structure in the world, after Burj Khalifa in Dubai. Two enclosed observation decks offer spectacular views over Tokyo. These are located at 1,150 feet (350 metres) and 1,480 feet (450 metres), making them the highest observation decks in Japan and some of the highest in the world. The main temple gate, the Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate), sports a famously gigantic red paper lantern. From here stretches lively Nakamise Dori, which contains about 150 stalls selling traditional goods such as combs, fans, dolls, kimono, paper crafts, clothing and toys – a great place for souvenirs. Asakusa can also be the starting point for a cruise on the Sumida river. One option is to take the water bus (suijo bus), which leaves every 20-45 minutes from the pier next to Azumabashi, heading south under 13 bridges en route to beautiful Hama-Rikyu Detached Garden. Or you could take a yakata-bune boat tour. These are leisurely cruises around Tokyo Bay on floating restaurants – and nicest at night. Ueno Ueno Koen was Tokyo’s first public park when it opened in 1873. It contains a whole slew of attractions, from museums to shrines and temples to a zoo, but is particularly famed for its collection of cherry trees. Highlights of Tokyo’s annual calendar Kanda/Sanno Matsuri Date mid May/mid June. The Kanda Matsuri is held on odd-numbered years on the weekend before 15 May; the Sanno Matsuri is held on even-numbered years around mid June. Along with Sanja Matsuri, these are Tokyo’s ‘Big Three’ festivals. Sanja Matsuri Date third weekend in May. At this Shinto festival, shrines containing kami (Shinto spirits) are carried through the streets in a grand procession, complete with music, dance and floats. This is Tokyo’s largest annual festival. Sumida River Fireworks New Year’s Day Date 1 Jan. Japan’s most important annual holiday sees large crowds fill temples and shrines. New Year Grand Sumo Tournament Date mid Jan. The first of Tokyo’s annual three 15-day sumo tournaments. The tournaments take place from the second to the fourth Sun of Jan, May and Sept. Tokyo International Animation Fair Date late Mar. Works by both amateurs and pros are exhibited at this event. There’s also a competition for youngsters. Meiji Jingu Spring Festival Date 29 Apr-early May. Performances of traditional entertainment at the large Meiji Shrine complex in Harajuku, including imperial court music and dance. 6 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN Date last Sat in July. Up to a million people pack the riverbank area in Asakusa to see around 20,000 hanabi (‘flower-fires’) light up the night skies. Asakusa Samba Carnival Date late Aug. Thousands of brilliantly plumed dancers shake their stuff in the streets of old Asakusa. Takigi Noh Date Sept-Oct. Atmospheric outdoor performances of medieval Noh drama are staged at a number of shrines, temples and parks, illuminated by torches. Meiji Jingu Grand Autumn Festival Date 3 Nov. Performances of traditional music, theatre and yabusame (horseback archery) at the Meiji Shrine. Tokyo International Film Festival Date early Nov. The largest film fest in Japan, attracting a glittering influx of international movie talent. PHOTO: YASUFUMI NISHI Tokyo appeal lies in the Asakusa Kannon temple. It is this JNTO3 2-8 TOKYO_JNTO Supplement 25/02/2013 17:21 Page 7 Tokyo PHOTOS: YASUFUMI NISHI/JNTO (LEFT), FUMIE SUZUKI/TIME OUT (RIGHT) Tokyo Skytree Throngs of Tokyoites gather here every spring during blossom season. The park is also home to some of Japan’s greatest cultural assets and Tokyo’s foremost collection of museums, which deal with Japanese history and culture, as well as science and the arts of other nations. The first you come to is the Le Corbusier-designed National Museum of Western Art. Next door is the National Science Museum and, north of that, the Tokyo National Museum, the grandest museum in the park. All the other museums – the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, the University Art Museum and Ueno Royal Museum – are within easy striking distance. The park also contains Ueno Zoo, the most famous zoo in the country. Not far from the main entrance is the approach to Toshogu Shrine, the finest of the park’s historical monuments. There’s more to Ueno than its park, though. Near the JR station is the area’s other great attraction: the Ameyoko street market, with more than 500 stalls shoehorned into a quarter-mile stretch, including fishmongers and fruit and vegetable stalls. Roppongi For the expat party crowd there’s only ever been one destination: Roppongi. Think deafening rock or trance music, hostess bars and tequila shots galore. So Tokyo’s leading property magnate Mori Minoru raised a few eyebrows when, in 1995, he announced plans to build a huge, multi-billion-yen, upmarket urban development right next to the bedlam. The Roppongi Hills complex is designed as a ‘city within a city’, housing numerous cafés, restaurants and shops, serviced apartments, a nine-screen cinema and the Ashahi TV studio. In the middle is Mori’s eponymous 54-storey Kaminarimon, Asakusa Kannon temple tower – the top supposedly modelled on a samurai helmet – home to the world-class Mori Art Museum and a 52nd-floor observation deck, Tokyo City View. Following hot on the heels of Roppongi Hills came another giant urban regeneration project, Tokyo Midtown, which opened in 2007 on the opposite side of Roppongi Dori. It also features offices, apartments, shops and restaurants, as well as a luxury hotel, futuristic design gallery 21_21 Design Sight, and the monolithic Midtown Tower – one of the tallest buildings in the city at 813 feet (248 metres) high. Nearby is the National Art Center, Tokyo, the biggest museum in the country, which also opened in 2007. Together with the Suntory Museum of Art in Midtown, which specialises in Japanese art and antiquities, and the Mori Art Museum in Roppongi Hills, it’s the final point of what’s been dubbed the ‘Roppongi Art Triangle’. The arrival of all these new developments has transformed the area’s image, with parents now bringing their offspring to Roppongi rather than ordering them to steer clear. Yet only a few blocks away, along Roppongi Dori, the night-time pleasures continue unabated. Street vendors and gaudy bar signs provide the ambience. At the weekend each of the bars and clubs will be rammed with hedonistic partygoers. Roppongi also has plenty to offer on a culinary level: the international crowd bring their international palates, and the area boasts a greater variety of food than any other part of the city. South-east from the Roppongi intersection lies Tokyo Tower; the resemblance to the Eiffel Tower is deliberate, as is the superior height – 43 feet/13 metres taller than the Parisian structure. Built in 1958, it has long since been trumped by taller buildings with better views, but it’s still an iconic structure. TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 7 JNTO3 2-8 TOKYO_JNTO Supplement 25/02/2013 17:21 Page 8 Tokyo Odaiba Odaiba started out as a project to develop Tokyo Bay on reclaimed land. Over the past decade it’s turned into something of a community apart from the rest of Tokyo, with nowhere else sharing its spacious atmosphere of wide avenues and cavernous modern architecture, with the water of Tokyo Bay just a couple of streets away. It’s at its busiest on summer weekends. A trip to Odaiba begins by taking the elevated, driverless Yurikamome monorail from Shinbashi or Shiodome stations. The gateway to Odaiba is Rainbow Bridge, named after the illuminations that light it up after dark. The bridge has become one of the most impressive additions to Tokyo’s skyline. Just over the bridge is the 25-storey structure of the Fuji TV headquarters, crowned by a 1,200-tonne glittering metal sphere. Inside the sphere is an observation deck that, on clear days, gives breathtaking views of Tokyo and its surroundings. Odaiba also is known for its shopping malls, including the nautically themed Decks, Aqua City with its smallscale replica of the Statue of Liberty, and Venus Fort, where you’ll find the super-cute Hello Kitty’s Kawaii Paradise, a mini indoor theme park devoted to the world’s most popular cat. There are also several museums worth seeing. The Museum of Maritime Science is built to look like an ocean liner, while the National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation is suitably space age in appearance. Fun for all the family is Toyota’s huge Mega Web showroom and Odaiba Onsen Monogatari, a hot spring theme park modelled on Edo-era Tokyo. Japanese cuisine Noodles: soba, udon and ramen Soba (thin, grey, made from buckwheat mixed with wheat flour) and udon (chunkier wheat noodles, usually white) noodles are eaten chilled or hot. Ramen are crinkly, yellowish noodles served in a rich, meaty soup. Oden Fish cakes, tofu, vegetables and whole eggs simmered long and slowly in a shoyu-flavoured broth. Sashimi Raw fish, delicately sliced and artfully arranged, usually served with soy sauce (pictured). The staple food in Japan, around which everything else revolves, is rice. Indeed, the word for meal (gohan) literally means ‘cooked rice’. In farming communities rice is still eaten three times a day, along with a simple side dish, a bowl of miso soup and some pickles. This is a Japanese meal at its most basic. Until 150 years ago, meat eating was shunned, and Japanese cooking is still heavily weighted towards seafood and products made from protein-rich soya beans, such as tofu, yuba (soya milk skin), natto (fermented beans), soy sauce and miso. There is an emphasis on fresh ingredients, so the varieties of seafood, vegetables and mushrooms will vary throughout the year. In addition, each region of Japan has its own specialities – and all are available in Tokyo. Kaiseki ryori Japan’s haute cuisine: a sequence of small dishes, often simple but always immaculately prepared and presented to reflect the seasons. Kushi-age Pieces of meat, seafood or vegetables are skewered and deep-fried to a golden brown in a coating of fine breadcrumbs. Nabemono and one-pot cooking One-pot stews cooked at the table in casseroles (nabe) of iron or heavy earthenware. Everyone helps themselves to the stew. 8 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN Sukiyaki Tender cuts of meat with vegetables, tofu and other ingredients lightly cooked in a sweetened soy sauce. Sushi Raw fish or other delicacies on patties of vinegared rice. Best sampled at the many kaiten (conveyor belt) restaurants. Tempura Seafood and vegetables deep fried in a light batter. Teppanyaki, okonomiyaki and monja Teppanyaki is beef cooked on a flat teppan grill. Okonomiyaki (‘grilled whatever you like’) is a cross between a pancake and an omelette, stuffed with meat, bean sprouts, chopped cabbage and other goodies. The Tokyo version is known as monja. Tonkatsu Pork dredged in flour, dipped in egg, rolled in breadcrumbs and deep fried. Unagi Fillets of freshwater eel, basted and very slowly grilled (often over charcoal). Yakitori Skewered bits of chicken cooked over a grill, seasoned with a soy-based glaze. JNTO3 9-10 AROUND TOKYO_JNTO Supplement 25/02/2013 17:23 Page 9 Around Tokyo Mountain scenery, hot springs and shogun shrines. Around Tokyo Mt Fuji and tea plantation ou don’t have to travel very far from Tokyo to encounter stunning scenery, whether it’s the splendid temples of Kamakura and Nikko, the smoking volcanic hillsides at Hakone, or the snowcapped serenity of Mount Fuji. Y Kamakura For 150 years, from the 12th to the 14th centuries, Kamakura was Japan’s military and administrative capital, and the factors that made it a strategic location for the first military government – it has hills on three sides and Sagami Bay on the other – have also kept it separate from the encroaching sprawl of Yokohama. When you reach Kamakura, you feel that you have finally escaped the city, even though it’s less than an hour by train from the heart of Tokyo. The Minamoto family picked Kamakura for its new base after vanquishing the Taira clan in 1185 and setting up Japan’s first military government – marking the start of 700 years of domination by shoguns. The new military rulers encouraged Zen Buddhism, which appealed for its strict self-discipline, and temples of various sects were established in the area. While traces of the government and military rule faded quickly after the Minamoto clan and their regents were defeated in 1333, the religious influence endures to this day. There are more than 70 temples and shrines around Kamakura, from the eminent to the small and secluded. Still active today, they represent different Buddhist sects, among them Rinzai, Pure Land and Nichiren. Few buildings are intact from the Kamakura period, but many temples and shrines appear unspoilt, giving visitors a rare opportunity to view authentic reminders of old Japan. The main attractions are scattered around, but most are within walking distance of Kamakura or KitaKamakura stations and can be covered in a day trip from Tokyo. Directions and distances to temples in each TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 9 JNTO3 9-10 AROUND TOKYO_JNTO Supplement 25/02/2013 17:23 Page 10 Around Tokyo vicinity are marked in English at intervals around town. You can pick up a free map (partly in English) from the Tourist Information window at Kamakura station. Most temples are open daily, from 9am to 4pm. The town and the main sites are surprisingly busy at weekends and holidays. Festival periods are especially crowded. The main ones are the Grand Festival (14-16 September) and the Kamakura Festival (from the second to the third Sunday in April). Both take place at Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu – the town’s main shrine and focal point, ten minutes’ walk from Kamakura station – which is also immensely popular on the first few days of the New Year, when hordes of worshippers converge to make their auspicious, first shrine visit of the year. Each temple and shrine also holds its own festival, and the fireworks on the second Tuesday of August attract massive crowds to the beach area. Nikko If you haven’t seen Nikko, then you can’t say you’ve really lived – such is the gist of a Japanese saying that’s been popular since the Edo period. For over 1,200 years this area of mountains, lakes, forests and hot springs has been considered a centre of great beauty and spiritual significance. But Nikko’s main claim to fame is that it’s where the first Tokugawa shogun, Ieyasu, is enshrined and buried. The scale and lavish ornamentation of his mausoleum make Nikko one of the most fascinating sites in the country. Ieyasu’s mausoleum, the Toshogu, is surrounded by numerous temples and shrines, including the equally ornate Taiyu-in, the mausoleum of his grandson, Iemitsu, the third Tokugawa shogun. The entire complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, can be seen in half a day. Most visitors, though, stay overnight so they can also see the area above Nikko, including Lake Chuzenji, the dramatic Kegon Falls, Yumoto Onsen and the vast Oku-Nikko national park, with its onsen (hot springs), hiking, camping, boating and skiing. Nikko lies at the foot of the mountains on the edge of the Kanto plain, about two hours by train due north of Tokyo. It is a small city (population circa 20,000), with souvenir shops, antique dealers and restaurants lining the main street that runs from the two train stations up to Shinkyo, the sacred bridge that marks the entrance to the shrines and temples. This handsome, red-lacquered bridge spanning the Daiyagawa gorge marks the spot where legend says Shodo Shonin was carried across by two huge serpents. The first bridge was built here in 1636, as the main approach to Toshogu. Destroyed by floods in 1902 and rebuilt five years later, the second bridge carried such vast numbers of tourists that it had to be rebuilt again, its third incarnation opening in 2005. Hakone Hakone is where Tokyoites comes to relax and get a taste of the countryside. Around 90 minutes by train from Shinjuku station on the Odakyu line, this mountainous area offers beautiful scenery, a host of attractions and, best of all, a natural hot-spring bath, or onsen, around virtually every bend of the roads that twist through the mountains. Those in a hurry can make the most of their time by trying the ‘Hakone circuit’. Get off the train at either 1 0 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN Odawara or Hakone-Yumoto. From there, transfer to the Tozan mountain railway for the 50-minute ride to its terminus at Gora. At Gora, transfer on to the funicular railway up to the end of the line at Sounzan. Here, transfer to the cable car, which takes you down to the banks of Lake Ashinoko at Togendai station. To cross the lake, board one of the pleasure boats and stay on until Hakone-Machi or Moto-Hakone, from where you can take a bus back to where you started, at HakoneYumoto or Odawara. The round-trip should take about three hours, although in the busy summer months it may take longer. The best way to see Hakone is to buy the Hakone Freepass (see page 30), available at all Odakyu railway stations. The pass covers travel from Tokyo and all public transport in Hakone. Mount Fuji Japan’s most famous and highest mountain (at 12,388 feet/3,776 metres), is renowned for its beauty and spiritual significance. For centuries pilgrims have made their way to the top of Mt Fuji, praying and resting at each stage before reaching the summit in time for sunrise. Religious travellers are few and far between these days, but climbing Fuji remains very popular. People still go up to see the sunrise, but most use transport to the fifth stage, where the road stops. Since the mountain is covered in snow most of the year, the official climbing season is limited to July and August, although there is transport to the fifth stage from April until November (out of season the trails are open, but facilities are closed). The best time is the middle four weeks of the climbing season; the most crowded time is Obon Week in mid August. The climb is worthwhile but not easy; a saying goes that there are two kinds of fools, those who never climb Fuji and those who climb it twice. Choosing from which side to tackle Mt Fuji affects how easy the climb is. Most people follow the Yoshidaguchi Trail from the Kawaguchiko side (north), which offers a 4.7-mile (7.5-kilometre) climb that takes five hours, plus three for the descent. You can also head from the south-west side, starting at one of two new fifth stages, one near Gotemba (six and a half hours up and three down) or another further west (five hours up and three and a half down). There are two ways to tackle the volcano. One is to set off at nightfall, timing the ascent to arrive in time for sunrise. More sensible souls climb in daylight and rest in one of the lodges near the peak. With up to 600 people crammed into the huts, you may not get a sound sleep, but you’ll appreciate the break. Lodges at the eighth stage on the Kawaguchiko side include Hakuunsou (0555 24 6514, from ¥3,700 per person) and Honhachigo Tomoekan (0555 24 6511, from ¥5,500 per person). The temperature at the summit can be 20°C lower than at the base; the average in July is 5°C (40°F) and in August 6°C (43°F). It’s often below zero before sunrise. Essential items include good shoes, rainwear, a torch, water and food (available at huts). Don’t forget toilet paper and bags for your rubbish. Once you reach the peak, you might be slightly disappointed to find it is no longer a place of solitude and contemplation, but it is still an amazing feeling to be standing atop Japan’s most iconic peak. JNTO3 11-15 KYOTO_JNTO Supplement 25/02/2013 17:36 Page 11 Kyoto The cultural heart of Japan. Kyoto Kinkaku-ji yoto was Japan’s capital for 1,200 years, and remains the nation’s cultural heart. Because it was spared the air raids of World War II, it has retained far more of a feel of ‘old Japan’ than other major Japanese cities. The numerous shrines, temples, palaces and ancient villas are repositories of Japan’s long history, while up in the low mountains that enclose the city small villages huddle under forested slopes, offering fascinating glimpses of rural life. You can still find geishas in the old Gion district; kimono weavers in Nishijin; sake brewers in Fushimi; and numerous craftsmen, artisans and storekeepers who carefully maintain the old ways, helping to keep alive the flame of Japan’s traditional culture. Not that everything looks old, of course. Inevitably, the city has its fair share of modern high-rises, and many of the older neighbourhoods have been lost to the onslaught of development – but there are still survivors of the classic wooden machiya houses with their attractive latticed fronts and tiled roofs; these have been experiencing a renaissance in recent years, with investors snapping them up and restoring them as holiday rentals. Those who live there say it takes a lifetime to know Kyoto. Few visitors have even as much as a week to explore, although a week would be the ideal length of K stay, especially if side trips to Ohara, Kurama, Uji or Nara are included. But even a couple of days is enough to glimpse something of the city’s main sites. To get to Kyoto from Tokyo takes just two hours 15 minutes by JR Tokaido shinkansen (from Tokyo station). From Osaka it’s 25 minutes by JR Tokaido Line rapid train from Shin-Osaka station. HISTORY Kyoto became the seat of Japan’s imperial court in 794, replacing previous sites in the Nara area. The location was selected for its auspicious geomantic properties rather than strategic considerations: surrounded on three sides by mountains but open to the south, with two rivers flowing through the city from the north. Known initially as Heian-kyo (Capital of Peace and Tranquility), it was laid out according to the classical Chinese pattern with a regular checkerboard of avenues and streets. Over the centuries, the city became known simply as Kyoto (Capital City). Besides being the focus of political power, it was also an important religious centre, with a succession of Buddhist sects vying for prominence. Each has left its mark with major temples, including Enryakuji (Tendai sect), To-ji (Mikkyo), Nanzen-ji, Tenryu-ji and Daikoku-ji (Zen), and Nishi Hongan-ji (Jodo Shin). TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 1 1 JNTO3 11-15 KYOTO_JNTO Supplement 25/02/2013 17:36 Page 12 The Heian Period (794-1185) saw the apogee of classical Japanese cultural refinement. It was an era of courtly rituals and romance, as recorded in the pages of the Tale of Genji – which is believed to be the world’s first work of fiction. But Kyoto was also a centre of constant intrigue and power brokering between the two most powerful families, the Taira (Heike) and Minamoto (Genji), which culminated in a period in which the political centre shifted to Kamakura. The Ashikaga shoguns (generals) restored the capital to Kyoto, ushering in a second golden age known as the Muromachi Period (1336-1573). Kyoto 1 2 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN Little is left of the city from that era, as it was destroyed on numerous occasions by fire and the civil wars that only ended with the rise to power of the warlords Nobunaga and Hideyoshi in the 16th century. Under Hideyoshi, Kyoto was rebuilt and entered a brief era of glory, now known as the Momoyama Period (1573-1603). But when the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu seized control in 1603, he moved his seat of power to Edo (modern-day Tokyo). The imperial court remained in Kyoto until 1868, when the shogunate was overthrown and the capital was formally moved to Tokyo under Emperor Meiji. JNTO3 11-15 KYOTO_JNTO Supplement 25/02/2013 17:36 Page 13 Today, there is a growing grassroots movement to preserve what is left of Kyoto’s heritage. While citizen groups have managed to obtain legal protection for Gion and other neighbourhoods, the government has to date gained UNESCO World Heritage status for 17 major sites. Yasaka-jinja GETTING AROUND Kyoto Given the scale of the city, it is impossible to see all the sights in a single day or even a short visit. Tour buses can whisk you from one temple to another, but to really discover the city, the best strategy is to focus on a couple of specific areas, giving yourself time not just to see the historic buildings but also to explore some of the neighbourhoods. The city is laid out on a regular grid. Karasuma-dori, the main north-south axis, is intersected by major avenues – Marutamachi-dori; Oike-dori; Shijo-dori; Gojo-dori; and Shichijo-dori, just north of the JR station – many of which have subway stations of the same name. East of the Kamo-gawa river is Higashiyama (East Mountain); to the west are Katsura-gawa and Arashiyama. To get from one end of Kyoto to the other, use the subway, transferring as necessary to the local railway lines or to the network of buses that criss-cross the city (most have signs and announcements in English). Since the terrain is mostly flat, energetic visitors might consider renting bicycles (try www.kctp.net/en). Taxis are numerous, and very convenient for shorter distances, although they’re not necessarily faster if you are planning on going right across town. For more detailed information about the city and special events, try these: Kyoto Tourist Information Centre JR Kyoto Station, 9th Floor (075 344 3300). Open 10am-6pm daily. Closed 2nd and 4th Tue of the month. Kyoto City TIC JR Kyoto Station Building, 2nd Floor (075 343 0548). Open 8.30am-7pm daily. Kyoto Tourist Information Decks Free Kyoto City guides are available at any Starbucks or 7-11 (Japan’s largest convenience store chain). Open daily. When to visit Due its landlocked position, Kyoto has an extreme climate, with bitterly cold winters and sweltering humid summers. The best time to visit is spring, especially when the cherries are in blossom, or when the hills and gardens are dappled with autumn hues. Kyoto also has numerous annual festivals, the most spectacular of which are: the Aoi Festival (15 May) and Jidai Festival (22 October), both with impressive processions through the streets; the Gion Festival (17 July), featuring massive wooden floats; Daimonji (around 15 August), marking the end of the midsummer o-bon Festival of the Dead with five huge bonfires in the shape of kanji characters on the hillsides above the city; and the Kurama Fire Festival (22 October), a boisterous occasion featuring night-time revelry and gigantic burning torches that scatter sparks all around. Around Kyoto Station Arriving in Kyoto by shinkansen, you may possibly be underwhelmed by the mundane cityscape that greets you as you emerge from the imposing new station building. However, there are several important sites within walking distance, and if you only have a few hours to spare, you can fill them easily. Just south of the station, visible from the platforms, is To-ji (East Temple), founded in 796, with its impressive five-storey pagoda. It’s usually quiet, but on the 21st of each month crowds gather for the Kobo-san flea market, where you can bargain for second-hand kimonos and furniture, post-war memorabilia and assorted junk. To the north of the station, the kitschy-retro Kyoto Tower offers views over the south of the city. A short walk away is Nishi-Hongan-ji. Many of the structures and ornamentations came from warlord Hideyoshi’s lavish Fushimi Castle, before it was destroyed by Ieyasu. Book for tours of the historic building. Across the street stands the rival Higashi (East) Hongan-ji. Despite the splendid wooden gate, there is not much to see inside. A short taxi ride from the station is the extraordinary and atmospheric Sanjusangen-do. The main hall of this temple, which dates from 1266, is 390 feet (118 metres) long and just 60 feet (18 metres) wide, and houses 1,001 statues of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy, each with a different face, peering out from the gloom. Close by is the Kyoto National Museum, which has an excellent collection of predominantly pictorial art. TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 1 3 JNTO3 11-15 KYOTO_JNTO Supplement 25/02/2013 17:36 Page 14 Kyoto Higashiyama and eastern Kyoto Some of the finest sites are concentrated in the eastern quadrant of the city, and if you only have one full day, this would be the best place to spend it in. First, take a bus or taxi to Ginkaku-ji, better known as the Silver Pavilion; its garden is a beautiful place to linger. From here, stroll down the tranquil, pedestrianonly, cherry-lined Philosopher’s Walk, following a canal past temples and imperial tombs, eventually arriving at Nanzen-ji; this is the classic Zen temple, in an unparalleled setting at the foot of verdant Higashiyama. Catch a bus or taxi to Kiyomizu-dera, one of Kyoto’s finest and most popular temples. From the bottom of the hill, you stroll up through narrow streets lined with gift shops. The temple itself is set into the steep hillside, with the front of the main hall supported on massive wooden scaffolding. Kiyomizu-dera was founded in 780, before the city existed, and is not affiliated with any of the main Kyoto sects. The platform around the main hall gives a wonderful view over the rooftops of the city, as well as much-needed fresh air, especially in the heat of summer. A short stroll away is Yasaka-jinja, a large Shinto shrine set in park-like precincts that are most interesting in the evening and at New Year. Continuing towards the Kamo-gawa River, you reach the Gion-Shinbashi district, one of the most atmospheric neighbourhoods in the city. In the evening, you may see maiko (apprentice geisha) making their way through the narrow streets. Central Kyoto Across the river from the Gion and slightly to the north is Ponto-cho, a lively entertainment area with streets lined with restaurants, bars and clubs that are at their busiest in the evening. Further west, Nijo-jo was the Tokugawa shoguns’ palace in Kyoto. Erected in 1632, the audience rooms are decorated with lavish craftsmanship, and protected by secret guards’ rooms and squeaking ‘nightingale floors’ intended to betray the presence of potential assassins. Besides the architecture, the castle has impressive gates (the Ote-mon and Kara-mon) and an extensive and showy formal garden. To the north is Kyoto Gosho, the Imperial Palace, which can be toured by prior appointment with the Imperial Household Agency. The main 19th-century palace is quite simple, and perhaps not worth a visit if you only have a short time in the city. Likewise Heian Jingu, a shrine built in 1895 to mark the city’s 1,000th anniversary: more imposing than elevating, it has three strolling gardens that are pleasant, but less interesting than many other of Kyoto’s older gardens. North-west and western Kyoto In the north of the city is Kinkaku-ji, the renowned Golden Pavilion. Originally constructed in 1397 as a shogun’s villa, its setting – among trees, next to a lake – is one of the most photographed sites in the city. In 1950, a monk caused a fire that razed the building to the ground, but an exact reconstruction was finished within five years, this time covered all over with gold leaf, the stunning brilliance of which is heightened by its reflection in the water. A short bus ride away is Ryoan-ji, with its worldfamous Zen rock garden. Because the image is so well known and the temple so busy with tour groups, actually seeing the garden can feel anti-climactic. But slow down, time your visit right and just sit: you may just experience a hint of enlightenment. To the far west, where the Oi-gawa River comes gushing out of the mountains, lies Arashiyama. This is an area of great natural beauty, especially in spring and autumn and, rather than specific sites, it is the scenery that delights. It has become popular to take a boat ride down river (you start at Kameoka, 15 minutes up the train line), through the mildly exciting rapids, emerging at Arashiyama. Then spend a few hours strolling down shady lanes and through bamboo groves, stopping at a chaya (traditional refreshment house) to lunch on tofu or other Kyoto delicacies, or sipping on green tea beside the river. To the far north Bamboo forest, Arashiyama 1 4 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN Hidden away in the folds of the mountains to the north of Kyoto, you will find quiet farming villages where life moves at a far more relaxing pace. Ohara would be worth visiting just for its attractive location, but it also has two fine temples that draw visitors from afar. JNTO3 11-15 KYOTO_JNTO Supplement 25/02/2013 17:36 Page 15 Sanzen-in has a wonderful setting, among towering cryptomeria and fringed by maple trees. Jakko-in is quieter but well worth visiting too.Even deeper into the mountains is the village of Kurama, famous for three reasons: its temple, Kurama-dera, associated with winged goblins known as tengu; its hot spring, Kurama Onsen, where you can bathe in an outdoors pool; and its spectacular annual fire festival (22 October). From here, you can hike half an hour to Kibune, a village in the next valley: stop here for a peaceful meal in one of the ryokan (traditional inns) by a gushing stream. Heading south The village of Fushimi, on the southern end of Higashiyama (East Mountain), is known for its saké; you can visit the Gekkeikan Museum to see (and taste) how Japan’s national tipple is brewed. Close by is the remarkable Inari-taisha, a major Shinto shrine dedicated to the god of rice. Its pathways are flanked by literally thousands of red torii (shrine gates) – donations from individuals, families and companies – which meander over the thickly wooded mountainside. Close encounters of the cultural kind For a change from temple-hopping and shopping, and to gain a greater appreciation of traditional Japanese arts and crafts, a number of hands-on experiences are on offer. Cultural programmes WAK Kyoto 075 212 9993, www.wakjapan.com. Combine a visit to a private home in Kyoto with a lesson in flower-arranging, origami, calligraphy, the tea ceremony, dance or playing the koto (a traditional stringed musical instrument). Run by the Women’s Association of Kyoto, classes are in English and last 90-150 minutes. Cost: ¥5,500-¥20,000 per person, including hotel pick-up. Windows to Japan windowstojapan.com. Aims to open windows and remove screens to let you experience the real Japan. Through these uniquely developed ‘windows’, you will discover a hidden world in plain sight: a private evening with a geisha will allow you to ask real geisha questions about their daily lives and career, and to understand more about this curious and often misunderstood world. The exclusive ‘Behind the Veil’ walking tour lets you see the unseen and hidden in regular Kyoto streets and neighbourhoods. Costs vary depending on the activity. PHOTO: COLIN SINCLAIR Studio Shiki maiko makeover 075 533 6666, www.maikohenshin.com/english/. Strictly for the girls, this one. Get dressed up as a maiko (apprentice geisha) – traditional white make-up and elaborate hairstyle included – and be TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 1 5 Kyoto JTB www.japanican.com. ViaJapan Holidays www.viajapan.co.uk. Learn about and try Japanese arts, music or food, directly from experts in the field. Experience the ninja world, for example, by wearing a ninja costume and participating in a ninja training session; learn samurai sword-fighting techniques; or play a Japanese taiko drum. All interests are catered for, from going to Tsukiji Fish Market then making sushi, to wearing a kimono and visiting Asakusa. Classes are in English. Costs vary depending on the activity, but start at about ¥10,000. snapped in a studio by a professional photographer. Cost: ¥9,975 for two hours, including six photos. JNTO3 16 AROUND KYOTO_JNTO Supplement 28/02/2013 12:46 Page 16 Around Kyoto Kumano Hongu Taisha, Mt Koya Uji This small city, 20 minutes south of Kyoto by train, is worth visiting (either as a half-day trip or en route to Nara) just to view the elegant Byodo-in. Built in 1053 and formerly a nobleman’s villa, the two wings of its main hall (the Ho’o-do) supposedly resemble a phoenix in flight. It’s one of the most celebrated buildings in Japan. Nara Japan’s capital before that honour passed to Kyoto, Nara has a more peaceful atmosphere and is constructed on a more manageable scale than its successor. It’s a great day-trip from Kyoto with a bunch of its own cultural highlights that rival anything to be found in its more famous neighbour. The temple of Todai-ji contains the world’s largest wooden structure, the Great Buddha Hall, which houses a huge and impressive bronze statue of Buddha. Nara Park is well known for the many tame deer that roam its grounds, regarded since ancient times as messengers of the gods. On the western outskirts of the city is Horyu-ji, the oldest Buddhist temple in Japan, with a five-storey pagoda said to be the oldest surviving wooden structure in the world, dating back to the early seventh century. Mount Koya Mt Koya, or Koya-san, is located in the north-eastern part of Wakayama Prefecture a few hours south of 1 6 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN Kyoto. It is the centre of Shingon Buddhism, a sect introduced to Japan in the early ninth century by Kobu Taishi, one of the most significant figures in Japanese religious history. On Mt Koya’s peak is Kongobu-ji, the sect’s head temple, which has a 1,200-year-long history. More than 120 other temples are scattered throughout the area, including Okunoin, where Kobu Taishi rests in eternal meditation. Okunoin is surrounded by Japan’s largest graveyard,where the burial plots of feudal lords and other prominent personalities are set among the trees. Around 50 of the temples in the area function as shukubo, which means they offer lodging to visitors and tourists. This includes the chance to eat shojin-ryori, the vegetarian cuisine of the monks. Some of the temples also offer the opportunity to experience zazen, a kind of Zen Buddhist training. Todai-ji in Nara PHOTOS: WAKAYAMA PREFECTURE (TOP), MAX HODGES (BOTTOM) Around Kyoto Historic buildings, temples and a holy mountain. JNTO3 17 NAGANO_JNTO Supplement 25/02/2013 17:42 Page 17 Nagano Ancient forests, remote mountains and monkeys. ountainous Nagano Prefecture, with its forests and traditional villages, reveals a Japan beyond the neon lights. Hiking in Kamikochi or walking the Kiso-ji Road in the Kiso Valley are great ways to discover Japan’s outdoors. M Kamikochi is particularly beautiful during the autumn foliage season, which peaks in mid October. The area is also known for its diverse alpine flora, with blooms at their best from mid May until the end of July. Matsumoto Kiso Valley Kamikochi PHOTO: NAGANO PREFECTURE Kamikochi is a remote highland area in the Azusa River Valley in the Japan Alps. Part of the Chubu Sangaku National Park, the area has a few hotels, huts and hiking trails – open from mid to late April until 15 November. Private cars are banned, with access only by bus or taxi. In the centre of Kamikochi stands Kappa Bridge. From here, trails lead up and down the valley and towards the summits of the surrounding mountains. Matsumoto Castle is Japan’s oldest wooden castle and one of the country’s most intact. Construction began on this magnificent three-turret structure in 1592. Today, guns, bombs and weapons from the days of the samurai are displayed on the lower floors. Nearby is the old Nakamachi merchant district, with traditional whitewalled houses that have been renovated to become shops, ryokans, cafés and galleries. Contemporary art fans should call in at the Matsumoto City Museum of Art, with works by Matsumoto-born Yayoi Kusama. Hot springs Nagano has a number of onsen villages, with natural hot springs. The area is also famous for its snow monkeys – these wild creatures enjoy soaking in the natural springs just like the human visitors. Jigokudani Monkey Park is home to more than 100 Japanese macaques, and the park has a hot-spring pool for their exclusive use. Not far from the monkey park, Yudanaka and Shibu onsen villages have traditional wooden Japanese inns, atmospheric places to stay where you can experience the relaxing powers of the onsen. There are several ski resorts near Yudanaka; the most prominent is Shiga Kogen, site of some Winter Olympics events in 1998. Kappa Bridge, Kamikochi TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 1 7 Nagano The Kiso Valley, at the foot of Mount Ontake, is home to one of Japan’s most beautiful forests. Here you can walk along the old Kiso-ji Road, part of Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu’s Nakasen-do Highway, built to connect Edo (present-day Tokyo) and Kyoto in the 17th century. Eleven staging posts are dotted along the scenic highway. At the town of Magome, rows of beautifully preserved old houses line stone-paved roads. Overhead power lines are hidden to maintain the authentic feudal period look. A leisurely two- or three-hour walk takes you from Magome to Tsumago, which provides more of a taste of the Edo Period (1600-1868). Both towns have traditional inns where you can spend the night resting by old-style fireplaces and sleeping on futons on tatami mats. JNTO3 18 KANAZAWA_JNTO Supplement 25/02/2013 17:46 Page 18 Kanazawa & Gifu Old Japan, perfectly preserved. Ishikawa Prefecture’s capital, Kanazawa, was one of the few major Japanese cities to escape bombing by the US Air Force during World War II. Consequently, parts of the old castle town have survived intact, making the city a viable alternative to the more famous Kyoto for exploring traditional Japan. Kanazawa has prospered for some 300 years, ever since feudal lord Maeda Toshiie built a castle here in the late 16th century. The city’s wealth allowed the arts to flourish: a thriving geisha district was established, along with one of Japan’s most beautiful gardens, Kenroku-en Garden. Established in 1676, the garden was shaped over a period of more than 100 years. It is distinguished by its many ponds, connected by winding streams, as well as its trees. The Nagamachi Samurai Residences District is at the foot of Kanazawa Castle. With earthen walls, stone pavements and the Onosho Canal, it retains the look and feel of the samurai era. One of its main attractions is Nomura-ke, a restored samurai home, complete with artefacts, revealing the lifestyle of samurai during this prosperous period. The Shinise Kinenkan Museum, a restored pharmacy, shows the lives of the merchant class that rose to prosperity as the samurai declined. A chaya (literally teahouse) is actually an exclusive restaurant where guests are entertained by geisha. During the Edo Period, chaya were found in designated entertainment districts, usually just outside the city limits. Kanazawa has three well-preserved chaya teahouse districts: Higashi Chayagai (Eastern Chaya District), Nishi Chayagai (Western Chaya District) and Kazuemachi. Their wooden buildings and paved streets are reminiscent of the Edo Period, and each district still has working chaya. You may happen to see a geisha in the early evening as she travels to one of her engagements. The Higashi Chaya District is the largest and most interesting of the three districts. Two chaya, the Shima Teahouse and Kaikaro Teahouse, are open to the public. Other buildings along the central street house cafés and shops. One of the shops, Hakuza, sells goldleaf products, a speciality of Kanazawa; it also has a tea ceremony room that is completely covered in gold leaf. The Ninja-dera (Ninja Temple) was built by the Maeda lords. It earned its nickname because of its many hidden defences. Since the shogun imposed strict building restrictions to ensure the weakness of his regional lords, the temple functioned as a disguised military outpost, with secret rooms, traps, and a labyrinth of corridors and staircases as well as hidden escape routes, enabling defenders to alert the castle in the event of an attack. Omicho Market is a busy and colourful network of covered streets lined by around 200 shops and stalls, most specialising in local seafood and produce. Takayama The old town area of Takayama, in Gifu Prefecture, has been beautifully preserved, with many buildings and whole streets of houses dating from the Edo Period, when the city thrived as a wealthy trading centre. The old wooden houses in the town centre have now been converted into cafés, restaurants, craft shops and a diverse range of galleries and museums. The Takayama Festival, held in spring and autumn, is believed to have begun in the 16th or 17th century and is one of Japan’s finest. During the festival, intricate floats, magnificently decorated using traditional local craft techniques, make their way through the town. Shirakawa-go Kenroku-en Garden, Kanazawa 1 8 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN A pleasant day trip from Takayama, Shirakawa-go is a quiet village, surrounded by mountains. It contains some 110 traditional gassho-zukuri farmhouses, some of which are more than 250 years old. In 1995 UNESCO declared the entire village a World Heritage Site. ‘Gassho-zukuri’ means ‘constructed like hands in prayer’: the farmhouses’ steep thatched roofs resemble the hands of Buddhist monks pressed together in prayer. The architectural style developed over many generations and is designed to withstand heavy snowfalls. The roofs, constructed without nails, provided a large attic space used for cultivating silkworms. PHOTO: KANAZAWA CITY Kanazawa & Gifu Kanazawa JNTO3 19-20 SETO INLAND_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:45 Page 19 Seto Inland Sea & Beyond An iconic shrine, a monument to world peace and an island-hopping road. PHOTO: OKAYAMA PREFECTURE Hiroshima Overshadowed by its tragic past as the target of the world’s first atomic bomb, present-day Hiroshima, two hours west of Kyoto, is a lively modern city, and one that stands as a powerful symbol for the promotion of world peace. A visit to the Peace Memorial Park in the city centre is an unforgettable experience, with the poignant A-Bomb Dome standing as a lone reminder of the old city that was obliterated in the blast. Hiroshima is also known for its food. Oysters have been farmed here since the 16th century, and Hiroshimastyle okonomiyaki, unique flour crêpes (sometimes referred to as Japanese pizzas) fried with vegetables and noodles, are a another speciality. Miyajima A short distance from Hiroshima is the beautiful island of Miyajima, home to the Itsuku-shima Shrine. The shrine has a torii (gate) standing alone in the sea. This striking and surreal sight is known as one of the ‘three views of Japan’ – a trio of the country’s most iconic sights. The shrine is also a World Heritage Site. Wild deer roam the island; they have become accustomed to people and wander around the same sites as visitors during the day. A pleasant and relaxing way to enjoy Miyajima is to take a stroll along one of the island’s many footpaths. Surrounding the town, the paths cut through the island’s forest; as you climb, you’ll find some good vantage points for views down on to the town below. Some paths lead through the Momijidani (‘Maple Valley’), the island’s prime spot for viewing autumn leaves. The paths also lead past a Tahoto pagoda and numerous lookout points, as well as clusters of cherry trees, which burst into bloom in early April. For those seeking a more substantial hike, there are three paths that lead to the summit of the island’s Mount Misen. From here, the numerous islands of the Seto Inland Sea are spread out before you. Swimmers and beach-lovers also love Miyajima: there are bathing beaches with camping grounds around the island, which get very busy in summer. TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 1 9 Seto Inland Sea & Beyond Shimanami Kaido, Seto Inland Sea JNTO3 19-20 SETO INLAND_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:45 Page 20 Kobe Harbour Land Shimanami Kaido The Shimanami Kaido is a 38-mile (60-kilometre)-long road that connects Japan’s main island of Honshu to the island of Shikoku, passing over six small islands in the Seto Inland Sea. It’s possible to make the journey from Honshu to Shikoku by car, bicycle or on foot. Along the way, travellers can enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Seto Inland Sea and the islands’ small towns. At around 44 miles (70 kilometres), the cycling route is a bit longer than the road, but because there are no steep inclines, it can be comfortably completed in a day by a moderately fit cyclist. Regular and electricassisted bicycles can be hired in the area. Ordinary bicycles cost ¥500 per day, children’s bicycles ¥300 per day, while electric-assisted bicycles are ¥800 for four hours. Miyajima is a romantic place, best enjoyed by staying overnight at one of the island’s ryokan. There are many day tourists too – the island is an ideal day-trip destination – but those staying overnight have the advantage that the island becomes much quieter and more peaceful during the evening. Himeji Himeji is best known for the magnificent Himeji Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is widely considered to be Japan’s most beautiful surviving feudal castle. It can be reached in less than an hour from Osaka or Kyoto. Kobe Located between the sea and the Rokko mountain range, Kobe is world-famous for its tasty beef. It’s also one of Japan’s most attractive cities. Kobe has been an important port city for many centuries and was one of the first Japanese ports to be opened to foreign trade in the late Edo Period. The Kitano-cho district at the foot of the Rokko mountain range is where many Western business people settled in the second half of the 19th century, when foreign trade began. Here you can visit a number of mansions that belonged to Western residents from this period. Many saké companies operate breweries in Kobe’s Nada district, some of which have an adjacent store or room with exhibits. At the Hakutsuru Sake Brewery Museum in the grounds of the Hakutsuru Brewery, you can learn about the process of saké brewing and taste the company’s famous sakés. Kobe is around two and a half hours by train from Tokyo. 2 0 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN Naruto City is located at the north-eastern tip of Tokushima Prefecture, Shikoku. The ocean around the coastal city is famous for its whirlpools. These occur when opposing currents from the Seto Inland Sea and the Kii Channel meet in the Naruto Strait, with a difference in water levels between the two of as much as 1.5 metres. At the time of the flood tide – between spring and autumn – huge whirlpools, moving at 13 miles (20 kilometres) an hour and exceeding 65 feet (20 metres) in diameter, form. Visitors can see these roaring whirlpools and surging currents from a tide-viewing boat or from observation platforms. Naoshima – Art Island Around four hours from Tokyo or one and a half hours from Osaka, Naoshima is a small island with a population of around 3,400 in the Seto Inland Sea. This unique piece of land has been selected by the US edition of Condé Nast Traveller as one of the ‘seven places in the world you should see next’, and also featured in The Man with the Red Tattoo, one of the series written by Raymond Benson, featuring Ian Fleming’s James Bond character. Benesse Art Site Naoshima is an attempt to create a totally new kind of art space and art experience by setting contemporary art and architecture amid the beauty of nature. The site includes many unique places and projects. Among them is Benesse House – a museum where you can stay for the night, designed by Tadao Ando, a former boxer and truck driver and now a renowned architect. Another is the Art House Project: artists renovate old houses, turning the house and the space inside into a new work of art. Tadao Ando also designed the Chichu Art Museum, where Water Lilies by Claude Monet sits alongside works by James Turrell and Walter De Maria, contemporary artists long involved with Naoshima Island. The museum has a beautiful garden, with plants that were cherished by Monet, allowing visitors to gain a deeper understanding of his work. You can also enjoy wonderful classic Japanese bunraku (puppet theatre) on the island. A special feature of bunraku here is that all of the performers are women – this is not found anywhere else in Japan. PHOTO: KOBE CONVENTION & VISITORS ASSOCIATION Seto Inland Sea & Beyond Naruto JNTO3 21 OKINAWA_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:46 Page 21 Okinawa Welcome to Japan’s island paradise. C government. As a result, and thanks to its trade with China, Thailand, Malaysia and elsewhere, Okinawa’s language and culture developed very differently from elsewhere in Japan. Such differences are still evident today, with Okinawa having food, music, dance, crafts, architecture and festivals that are not found elsewhere in the country. One example is the bright red, elaborately decorated Shuri Castle in Naha City (Okinawa’s capital). Originally the seat of the Ryukyu kings, it shares little with the white fortifications of mainland Japan. Okinawa is also the birthplace of karate, as well as a lesser known martial art called kobudo. There’s also a distinct American influence, thanks to more recent historical events: Okinawa was under US administration from the end of World War II until 1972, and still has a significant US military presence. Okinawa has also achieved worldwide attention for its famously long-lived inhabitants, who are less likely to suffer from cancer, strokes and heart conditions; many studies have put this down to the healthy traditional diet and laid-back way of life. Try a champuru stir-fry, containing vegetables such as goya (bitter melon), tofu and meat or fish, then indulge in a shot of the local tipple, awamori. This strong, fiery, distilled rice liquor resembles shochu, but is made from long-grained rice – perhaps this is the secret of Okinawan longevity. GETTING THERE Okinawa’s Naha Airport is serviced domestically by ANA, JAL, Peach, Jetstar Japan and AirAsia Japan. The main routes are from Tokyo Haneda Airport (2hr 45min), Kansai International Airport (2hr 10min) and Osaka Itami Airport (2hr 15min). For visitor information, check www.okinawastory.jp. PHOTO: OKINAWA CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU Kabira Bay, Ishigaki Island TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 2 1 Okinawa rystal blue seas, white sand beaches and colourful marine life – it’s not widely known, but Japan is also a fantastic place for a beach holiday. More than 150 islands, about 40 of them inhabited, known as the Ryukyu Islands, stretch in a 250-mile chain at the southernmost extremity of the Japanese archipelago. This is Okinawa Prefecture, located nearly halfway between Kyushu (the southernmost of Japan’s four main islands) and Taiwan, at the same latitude as more famous beach destinations such as Hawaii, Florida and the Bahamas. The climate is subtropical, with an average annual temperature of 22°C (72.3°F). Summers are hot and wet – monsoons and typhoons are a regular feature – with highs of around 31°C (88°F), while winters are much dryer with temperatures never falling below springtime levels in Tokyo and Osaka. Banyan trees, hibiscus and other tropical and semi-tropical plants abound, blooming throughout the year; and sugar cane, pineapple and papaya are major crops. Rare species of flora and fauna include the wild cats of Iriomote Island. Okinawa’s natural attractions are many, particularly the spectacularly clear blue waters and blindingly white sand beaches that fringe the islands. Extensive coral reefs teeming with colourful fish make this a diving and snorkelling hotspot. You can also kayak through mangrove swamps, fish, whale-watch, hike in rainforest or play golf on an ocean-side course. Those who want to see whale sharks and manta rays without getting wet can visit Churaumi Aquarium on Okinawa Island, the world’s second-largest aquarium. For about 400 years, until the mid 19th century, Okinawa was known as the Ryukyu Kingdom, a prosperous state independent of Japan’s central JNTO3 22-23 COOL JAPAN_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:49 Page 22 Crafts Ryokan Traditional crafts such as lacquerware, pottery, kimono, ukiyo-e woodblock prints, calligraphy and woodwork make great souvenirs. Plenty of places also offer instruction in the likes of origami, flower-arranging and calligraphy or even Japanese cookery. Immerse yourself in Japanese culture and customs by spending a night in a traditional Japanese inn. There are more 55,000 ryokan in Japan, where you can stay in a room with tatami (straw mat) flooring, dine on a kaiseki feast of traditional local foods, change into a yukata (cotton kimono) after taking an onsen bath, and finally fall asleep on a futon. See page 35. Gardens Traditional Japanese gardens can be found all over Japan – in city and neighbourhood parks, at Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, and at historical landmarks such as old castles. Geisha In Kyoto you can see a geisha dance performance or tea ceremony demonstration or even have your own maiko (apprentice geisha) makeover. See page 15. Samurai Visit the Toshogu Shrine in Nikko (see page 10), the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, one of Japan’s greatest shogun warriors, or become a samurai for a day at the Edo Wonderland amusement park in Nikko (see page 24). Sumo Japan’s most famous mountain is also its highest, at 12,388 feet (3,776 metres). An ascent to the top is a strenuous but rewarding once-in-a-lifetime experience. See page 10. Six sumo tournaments are held each year in Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya and Fukuoka, each lasting for 15 days (see www.sumo.or.jp/eng for details). If your visit doesn’t coincide with a tournament, you can get your sumo fix by sampling chanko nabe, the hearty stew wrestlers eat to bulk up, at a sumo restaurant in the Ryogoku area of Tokyo. Onsen Temple stays Soaking in a natural hot spring is the perfect way to relax after a day of sightseeing. Onsen are found all over Japan, both indoors and in dramatic outdoor settings such as by the ocean, next to volcanoes and overlooking Mt Fuji. There are even hot spring theme parks where you can bathe in a sake or coffee spa. See page 26. On the top of Mt Koya, the centre of Shingon Buddhism in Japan, stand more than 100 temples surrounded by forest. About 50 of them function as shukubo temple lodgings, where tourists are welcome to stay overnight, try shojin-ryori, the vegetarian cuisine of monks, and participate in the morning meditation. See page 16. Mt Fuji 2 2 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN PHOTOS: MARK BASSETT (LEFT), SOTSU, SUNRISE (CENTRE), THOMAS LOTTERMOSER (RIGHT) Traditional Japan Cool Japan JNTO3 22-23 COOL JAPAN_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:49 Page 23 n Akihabara Bullet trains Also known as Electric Town, this Tokyo neighbourhood is the place to buy electronic gadgets at great prices. It’s also a shopping mecca for otaku, obsessed fans of anime and manga. Head to one of the many Maid cafés (cosplay-themed restaurants) to see otaku at play. Drop by the Tokyo Anime Center to see anime artists at work. Japan’s shinkansen trains are the safest and fastest in the world. You’ll feel like you’ve stepped into the future. Naoshima The small island of Naoshima in the Seto Inland Sea is an art lover’s paradise. It has an amazing collection of art museums designed by Tadao Ando, one of Japan’s most famous modern architects, and art by the likes of Yayoi Kusama, Claude Monet and Hiroshi Sugimoto. There’s even an art bathhouse! For more information, see www.benesse-artsite.jp. Odaiba On this man-made island in Tokyo Bay you’ll find some of Japan’s most unusual modern architecture. Robot lovers shouldn’t miss the National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation and the giant, 60-foot (18-metre) statue of the anime character Gundam. 0motesando & Harajuku Tokyo’s Omotesando is a grand boulevard where the world’s top fashion labels have built iconic flagship stores. Next door is Harajuku, a warren of streets selling alternative fashion by undiscovered designers. Ghibli Museum Shibuya crossing Home to Hayao Miyazaki, Japan’s counterpart to Walt Disney, Tokyo’s Ghibli Museum contains beautiful stills from Miyazaki’s films, such as Spirited Away and Princess Mononoke. Tickets have to be reserved in advance; for details, see www.ghibli-museum.jp/en/. The world’s busiest pedestrian crossing is located outside the Hachiko exit of Shibuya JR station in Tokyo. Come here on a Friday evening to see the capital’s trendsetting teenagers strut their stuff. Japan on film Get the best views of Tokyo – and see how big the city really is – from the tallest freestanding tower in the world, the 2,080 feet (634 metre)-high Tokyo Skytree. Details on www.tokyo-skytree.jp. It’s open from 8am until 10pm, and adult tickets cost ¥2,000 (children’s tickets are less). For a free alternative, check out the views from the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building in Shinjuku. Head to Park Hyatt Tokyo to re-live Lost in Translation or to the streets of Gion to feel like you’re on the set of Memoirs of a Geisha. Locations for Tom Cruise’s The Last Samurai included Engyo-ji Temple in Himeji. In 2013, Japan will be the setting for Wolverine, starring Hugh Jackman, and 47 Ronin, starring Keanu Reeves. Tokyo Skytree TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 2 3 ????????????? Modern Japan PHOTOS: OSAMU NAKAMURA (LEFT), FUMIE SUZUKI/TIME OUT (CENTRE), WAKAYAMA PREFECTURE (RIGHT) In Japan’s metropolises, it is the country’s modern urban side that is most visible – neon lights, outrageous fashions, futuristic gadgets, avant-garde architecture, manga – though you’ll also find historic inns and ancient temples. The countryside is dominated by more traditional entertainments, such as onsen spas, Buddhist retreats and ryokan inns, but also has its high-tech touches. Here’s how to enjoy the best of both worlds. JNTO3 24-27 JAPAN FOR FAMILIES_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:50 Page 24 Japan for Families apanese pop culture is a worldwide phenomenon, with children everywhere playing on Nintendo and PlayStation games consoles, wearing Hello Kitty T-shirts, and watching cartoons like Dragon Ball Z, Pokémon and Astro Boy or anime films such as the Oscar-winning Spirited Away and Howl’s Moving Castle. As a result, kids are more likely to be begging their parents to take them to Disneyland in Japan, rather than in Florida or Paris. There’s plenty to keep both children and adults entertained: here are some suggestions. J Japan for Families Shopping An absolute must for teenagers is Tokyo’s Harajuku district, made famous by Gwen Stefani in her song ‘Harajuku Girls’. It’s the epicentre of Japan’s most extreme teenage cultures and fashion styles, but also offers shopping for grown-ups and some historic sights. The focal point is pedestrianised Takeshita Dori and nearby side streets, which are lined with fashion boutiques, second-hand clothes shops, quirky jewellery stalls and fast-food outlets geared towards trendconscious teens. The best time to visit is on Sunday, when the area heaves with youngsters, including ‘cosplay’ (costume play) aficionados dressed up in bizarre outfits to resemble characters from animated films and manga comic books. The bright, brash Shibuya district is also a playground for Tokyo’s youths, with innumerable shops, cafés, clubs, bars and restaurants catering for their tastes: pedestrian street Center Gai is where to see all the action. For younger members of the family, Tokyo’s Kiddyland (www.kiddyland.co.jp) and multistorey Hakuhinkan (www.hakuhinkan.co.jp) are among the most popular toy shops in Japan. Fans of Pikachu and friends should make tracks for the Pokémon Centre. Technology & transport As home to some of the world’s most successful electronic and automobile companies, Japan has plenty of technology-related attractions aimed at families. In Tokyo, Honda Welcome Plaza offers regular demonstrations of some of the world’s most advanced robots, while at Toyota’s Mega Web children can ride hybrid mini cars while their parents test drive the latest road models. On the same site is the giant ‘Stream of Starlight’ Ferris wheel – at 383 feet/115 metres, one of the highest in the world – which is illuminated with multicoloured kaleidoscopic patterns at night. For a fun and educational experience, don’t miss the interactive, bilingual National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation. A great way to see Tokyo is a river cruise on the space-age Hotaluna water bus (www.suijobus.co.jp). The boat passes under 13 bridges en route from futuristic Odaiba to the old downtown area of Asakusa, home to the city’s most famous temple, Senso-ji. Hotaluna has an open-air viewing deck on top and serves gelato on board. 2 4 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN You’ll also get a good look at the Rainbow Bridge spanning Tokyo Bay. Locals enjoy the ride too, as it offers a refreshing perspective on well-known landmarks. Wannabe train drivers and fans of Thomas the Tank Engine will also enjoy a ride on a futuristic shinkansen, the original high-speed train. Theme parks Japan offers an amazing range of family-oriented amusement parks, including: Edo Wonderland (www.edowonderland.net). A historical theme park in Nikko. For a unique souvenir, get a portrait of the family dressed in ninja, samurai and geisha costumes. Fuji-Q Highland (www.fuji-q.com). Thrills and spills galore at this amusement park near Mt Fuji, with five rollercoasters including the towering Fujyama. KidZania (www.kidzania.jp). An ‘edutainment’ park in Tokyo where children can try out adult roles in realistically simulated workplaces such as being a pilot, a scientist, a firefighter or even a fashion designer. LEGOLAND® Discovery Center (www.legoland discoverycenter.jp/tokyo/en). It’s like you’ve just jumped into the biggest box of LEGO bricks ever! Sanrio Puroland (www.puroland.co.jp). The Tokyo home of Hello Kitty and all of Sanrio’s other characters. Toei Kyoto Studio Park (www.toei-eigamura.com). A film set and theme park in one. See ninja and samurai performance or have your whole family made over as samurai and geisha by movie make-up artists. Tokyo Disney Resort® (www.tokyodisneyresort. co.jp). Two adjoining parks on Tokyo Bay, Disneyland and DisneySea. The latter, the only one in the world, has a nautical theme, with rides based on Disney works such as The Little Mermaid and Aladdin. Universal Studios Japan® (www.usj.co.jp). Famous Hollywood movies, including Spiderman, Shrek and Jurassic Park, feature at this film theme park in Osaka. School trips Japan is also a fantastic destination for school trips. JNTO can help British schools find a matching establishment in Japan for educational or exchange visits, and also advise on itineraries. For a free guide to Japan school trips, email [email protected]. JNTO3 24-27 JAPAN FOR FAMILIES_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:50 Page 25 Winter Sports W Another plus is that visitors get a completely different cultural experience compared to skiing in Europe or the US. Sake and noodles make a change from Western fare, and the country’s numerous onsen (hot springs) are the perfect place to unwind after a day on the slopes. Because the resorts are well served by public transport, visitors can combine a skiing holiday with a city trip to Tokyo or Kyoto. An annual winter highlight in Hokkaido is the Sapporo Snow Festival in early February. And don’t miss the snow monkeys at Jigokudani Wild Monkey Park in Yamanouchi, Nagano Prefecture, where you can see macaques soaking in the hot springs. POPULAR RESORTS In Hokkaido, Niseko (www.niseko.ne.jp/en) is probably the most popular resort with foreigners, with excellent snow conditions, birch tree-lined runs and great views of Mt Yotei. Furano (www.furanotourism.com) is ideal for families and more mature skiers, while Rusutsu (http://en.rusutsu.co.jp) has a great snowboarding park. On the central island of Honshu, the best resorts are located in the mountainous prefectures of Niigata and Nagano. Shiga Kogen (www.snowjapan.com/e/ shiga-kogen-guide/index.html) is the biggest skiable area in Japan, with 21 interlinked resorts all covered by one lift pass. Hakuba (http://vill.hakuba.nagano.jp/ english/index.html), at the foot of the Japanese Alps, also offers a mix of resorts, while compact Nozawa Onsen (www.nozawaski.com/winter/en) is a good choice for a traditional Japanese atmosphere and plenty of hot springs. Further north, in Yamagata Prefecture, Zao Onsen (www.zao-spa.or.jp/english/ index.html) is a small onsen village famous for its ‘snow monsters’ – outlandish shapes formed by trees covered in snow and ice. For detailed information on every ski resort in Japan, including photographs, maps, snow reports and resort reviews, visit www.snowjapan.com. Snow monkeys, Jigokudani TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 2 5 Winter Sports hen people think of Japan, they probably think of temples, sushi or cherry blossom, rather than winter sports. But it’s a great destination for skiing and snowboarding holidays. Over 70 per cent of this volcanic country is mountainous, and chilly winds blowing in from Siberia mean that for at least four months of the year the mountains in the central highlands and northern regions are blanketed with snow, making Japan’s ski areas among the best in the world. Japan was the first Asian country to host Winter Olympics, in Sapporo in 1972, and then again in Nagano in 1998. Until recently European skiers have been a rarity, but that’s set to change as plenty of British tour operators now offer winter packages to Japan, including leading ski specialists such as Crystal and Ski Independence. And there’s a huge choice of resorts – an estimated 600 in total, from the northern island of Hokkaido to Kyushu in the south. Many are quite small, but overall quality is high, with modern lifts, well-tended slopes and some of the best powder in the world. The season is long, with the first snow arriving in November, most resorts opening in December, and reliable and abundant snowfall meaning that some locations stay open until early May. The terrain is often gentler than in the European Alps, making ideal conditions for beginners and intermediates, though experts have excellent off-piste opportunities. Night skiing and other activities, such as cross-country skiing and snowmobiling, are also available. Snowboarding and skiing are very popular with young Japanese, so resorts are careful to keep prices low. An average full-day lift pass typically costs about ¥4,500, and one-day hire of skis, boots and poles is around ¥3,000-¥5,000. The larger resorts offer a wide choice of accommodation options; rates per person per night range from around ¥6,000 including two meals at a minshuku (Japanese B&B) or skiers’ lodge, to ¥20,000 upwards without meals at a top-end hotel. JNTO3 24-27 JAPAN FOR FAMILIES_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:51 Page 26 Cartoon Culture hen Japanese culture was presented at the 1867 World Expo in Paris, it created a European boom in all things Japanese. Known as Japonism, this enthusiasm for Japanese culture had a particular influence on the art world, when woodcut prints from the ukiyo-e school of painting transformed European impressionism. Japan’s creative influence on the world remains strong, thanks to the worldwide popularity of Japanese animation and comics. Known as manga, Japanese comics amount to almost 40 per cent of everything published in Japan. The wide-reaching appeal of manga can be attributed to the huge variety of interests they cover – sport, school life, science fiction and fantasy, romance, business, war and even social issues. You can find manga magazines as thick as phone directories, and epic stories that take numerous volumes to complete. Manga artists hold the same status as writers in Japan, and their influence is now being keenly felt in the West – manga has been the fastest growing book category in the US for some years. The Japanese anime (‘animation’) industry has also developed, keeping pace with the comic culture. Anime directors have produced refined stories dealing with profound themes, and their unique presentation and use of graphic techniques have improved despite low budgets. Today, works by the likes of Studio Ghibli, Pocket Monster and Dragon Ball earn high praise as Japanese anime while also exerting considerable influence on Hollywood movies. Studio Ghibli’s film Spirited Away won many awards, including an Oscar for Best Animated Feature, while Candy Candy and UFO Robo Grendizer are well known at home and popular abroad too. Any discussion of contemporary Japan’s anime and comic culture is incomplete without mention of its obsessed fans. Otaku are passionate consumers and harsh critics of Japanese animation and comics, with both an exhaustive knowledge of their favourite works and an insatiable thirst for related products. Ghibli Museum 1-1-83 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka-shi (0570 055777, www.ghibli-museum.jp/en). Mitaka station (JR line). Open 10am-6pm Mon, Wed-Sun. Kyoto International Manga Museum Karasuma-Oike, Nakagyo-ku (075 254 7414). Karasuma-Oike station on Kyoto City subway (Karasuma or Tozai line). Tokyo Anime Centre Akihabara UDX 4F, 4-14-1 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku (03 5298 1188, www.anime center.jp). Akihabara station (JR line, Tsukuba Express or Hibiya line). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sun. Cartoon Culture W Tokyo Anime Centre 2 6 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN Hot springs Like a giant soaked sponge, Japan literally leaks from thousands of hot springs right across the country. At some 1,800 of these springs, resorts have been set up: some are historic, others are more modern. These onsen rank among Japan’s most enjoyable attractions, and offer a mind-boggling array of variations on the seemingly simple act of soaking in hot mineral waters. Here are some of the best: Kusatsu Onsen (Gunma Prefecture) This resort area, which boasts Japan’s most bountiful natural hot spring, has been renowned for centuries. Hakone Yumoto Onsen (Kanagawa Prefecture) Dating back 1,000 years, this is the most venerable of all the many hot springs in the Hakone area. Yudanaka Onsen (Nagano Prefecture) This resort is notable for its monkeys, who enjoy the hot water so much that they have their own special bath. Kinugawa Onsen (Tochigi Prefecture) Located in a picturesque river valley a little over an hour north of Tokyo, this hot spring provides great scenic views. Dogo Onsen (Ehime Prefecture) Situated on the island of Shikoku, this is Japan’s oldest hot spring resort: its history dates back 3,000 years. Beppu Onsen (Oita Prefecture) One of Japan’s top resorts, located on the southern island of Kyushu. Ibusuki (Kagoshima Prefecture) Also on Kyushu, this is a resort with a difference: instead of hot water, visitors are buried up to their necks in hot sand, which is said to have great health benefits. Be sure to observe onsen etiquette: • Communal bathing is the custom. Before entering the bath, disrobe in an anteroom and place your robe and underclothes in a basket or shelf compartment. • Don’t worry about going in naked: inns provide bathers with a hand-towel to drape over their midriff. • Be sure to wash and rinse thoroughly at the showers and taps outside the bath: it’s considered very bad form to get soap in the bath itself. Then you can climb into the bath for a good soak. JNTO3 24-27 JAPAN FOR FAMILIES_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:51 Page 27 Annual Events apan has hundreds of events and matsuri (festivals) throughout the year; here are some of the main ones. For what’s on in Tokyo, see page 6. J accompanied by people in traditional nebuta costumes, dancing wildly and playing flutes and drums. Sapporo Snow Festival Where Hiroshima, Chugoku. When 6 Aug. At 8.15am – the exact time that the atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima in 1945 – the Bell of Peace rings out and sirens sound throughout the city. This is followed by a minute’s silence, which is observed throughout the country. In the evening, thousands of lanterns are set adrift on the Ota river, with prayers for world peace. Where Sapporo, Hokkaido. When early Feb. Winter is celebrated in style in Hokkaido’s capital, Sapporo, when two million visitors come to admire the huge and elaborate snow and ice sculptures lining the main thoroughfare, Odori Park. Tagata Fertility Festival Where Komaki, Chubu. When Mar. One of the country’s more eccentric festivals. Middle-aged men carry an 800lb wooden phallus down the streets of Komaki. Crowds of cheering and slightly intoxicated locals and foreigners, and pregnant women, push and shove for the chance to rub the sacred member, which Nebuta they believe will bring luck Matsuri and fertility. Gion Matsuri Fuji Rock Festival Where Niigata, Chubu. When late July. Inspired by the UK’s Glastonbury Festival, Japan’s premier music fest (founded 1997) regularly attracts more than 100,000 partygoers to a stellar line-up of international bands. Although the current site is nowhere near Mt Fuji, the name remains. Summer Sonic Where Osaka, Kansai and Chiba, Kanto. When early Aug. A two- to three-day music festival held at the same time in both Osaka and Chiba (just north of Tokyo). Started in 2000, it attracts a great line-up of Japanese and international acts. Details on www.summersonic.com. Nebuta Matsuri Where Aomori, Tohoku. When early Aug. Huge nebuta – illuminated papier-mâché dummies representing historical figures or kabuki characters – are pulled on floats through the streets of Aomori, Awa-Odori Folk Dance Festival Where Tokushima, Shikoku. When 12-15 Aug. The most famous of many dancing festivals held across Japan. Parades of folkdancers welcome the souls of ancestors during the Obon season (one of the main holiday periods), accompanied by drums, gongs, strings and flutes. The dance dates from 1587 when the feudal lord Hachisuka Iemasa offered saké to the town’s inhabitants to celebrate newly built Tokushima Castle – the people became so drunk they started to dance in an unsteady gait. Naha Festival & Giant Tug-of-War Where Naha, Okinawa. When early Oct. A dazzling display of Okinawan culture, including dance, music, arts and crafts, food and drink – and the world’s largest tug-of-war, featuring a giant rope over 600 feet (180 metres) long and weighing over 40 tons, pulled by thousands of participants. The tug-of-war has its roots in a 17th-century religious ritual for a successful harvest. F1: Japan Grand Prix When Oct. Traditionally held at the end of the Formula One season, the Japan Grand Prix is often a championship decider, and a must for all petrolheads. After nearly 20 years at the Suzuka Circuit, near Nagoya, in 2007 it moved back to its original venue, Fuji Speedway, at the foot of Mt Fuji. From 2008 it will alternate between the two tracks. Karatsu Kunchi Festival Where Karatsu, Kyushu. When 2-4 Nov. This 400-year-old autumn festival sees processions of gigantic floats – hikiyama – in the form of samurai helmets, sea bream, flying dragons and other fantastical creatures. The highlight is on the second day, when the floats are pulled by hand along Nishinohama Beach to the sound of flutes and drums. TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 2 7 Annual Events Where Kyoto, Kansai. When July. This notable Kyoto festival dates from the ninth century, when the head priest of the Yasaka Shrine led a procession of ornate palanquins in an attempt to win the protection of the gods against the pestilence that was then ravaging the city. The main day is 17 July, when tall, gorgeously bedecked yama and hoko floats parade through the main streets. Peace Ceremony JNTO3 28-29 FLYING TO JAPAN_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:52 Page 28 Flying to Japan Direct flights from the UK Airline Departs Destination Contact All Nippon Airways London Heathrow Tokyo (Narita) 020 8762 8977 www.ana.co.jp British Airways London Heathrow Tokyo (Narita) 0844 493 0787 www.britishairways.com Japan Airlines London Heathrow Tokyo (Narita) Tokyo (Haneda) 0844 856 9700 www.uk.jal.com Virgin Atlantic London Heathrow Tokyo (Narita) 0844 209 7777 www.virgin-atlantic.com Narita International Airport Most overseas flights arrive at Narita International Airport, located about 40 miles east of central Tokyo and well served by both rail and bus links to the city. There are two terminals; both have money exchange bureaus, which open at 6.30am and don’t close until the last flight of the day. Each terminal also has a tourist information centre (open 8am-8pm). Clients can validate their Japan Rail Pass at the airport and begin using it immediately on the Narita Express (N’EX) into Tokyo. Haneda Airport In October 2010, British Airways launched a new route to Tokyo’s central Haneda Airport. Haneda Airport is closer to central Tokyo than Narita, and ideal for those wishing to connect to domestic flights to other parts of Japan. 2 8 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN Currency exchange counters are open between 6am and 11pm daily. Kansai International, Japan’s second-largest airport, is located in south-east Osaka Bay on an artificial island three miles off the coast and about 40 miles from Shin-Osaka station with its shinkansen bullet train connections. Tourist information is located on the first floor of the arrivals hall and is open 9am to 9pm daily. Central Japan International Airport Nicknamed Centrair, this airport is located outside Nagoya City, in Aichi Prefecture. KLM, Finnair, Korean Air and Etihad Airways operate indirect flights from UK cities to Centrair. Narita International Airport Narita International Airport JR Tokyo Station JR ‘Narita Express’ 60min, ¥2,940 JR rapid train 85min, ¥1,280 Limousine bus 80min, ¥3,000 Tokyo City Air Terminal (TCAT) Limousine bus 55min, ¥2,900 Keisei/Toei Asakusa/Keikyu train (transfer once) 110min, ¥1,560 I Kansai International Airport Limousine bus 75min, ¥3,000 n addition to the direct flights detailed above, numerous airlines operate regular indirect flights between the UK and Japan. They include Air France, Austrian Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Emirates, Finnair, KLM and Lufthansa. The journey takes, on average, 14-15 hours. A few of these airlines, such as Air France and KLM, fly from several UK cities, including Manchester and Edinburgh. Flying to Japan • Approx flying time is 12hrs Haneda Airport (domestic flights) Major hotels in city centre Limousine bus 60-110min, ¥2,700-¥3,000 JR Shinjuku Station JR ‘Narita Express’ 80min, ¥3,110 Limousine bus 85min, ¥3,000 JR Ikebukuro Station JR ‘Narita Express’ 90min, ¥3,110 Keisei Uneo Station Keisei ‘Skyliner’ 41min, ¥2,400 Keisei limited express 75min, ¥1,000 Tokyo Yokohama Station JR ‘Narita Express’ 90min, ¥4,180 JR rapid train 120min, ¥1,890 Limousine bus 90min, ¥3,500 Yokohama City Air Terminal (YCAT) Yokohama JNTO3 28-29 FLYING TO JAPAN_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:52 Page 29 Haneda International Airport Tokyo Monorail/JR Yamanote Line (transfer once) 30min, ¥620 JR Tokyo Station Keikyu/JR Yamanote Line (transfer once) 35min, ¥560 Japan is not as expensive as you might imagine and, in fact, compares very favourably with London. For example: Limousine bus 25-45min, ¥900 Tokyo Monorail/JR Yamanote Line (transfer once) 40min, ¥660 Haneda International Airport JR Shinjuku Station Keikyu/JR Yamanote Line (transfer once) 40min, ¥590 Limousine bus 35-75min, ¥1,200 Tokyo Monorail/JR Yamanote Line (transfer once) 50min, ¥720 JR Ikebukuro Station Keikyu/JR Yamanote Line (transfer once) 55min, ¥650 Limousine bus 35-80min, ¥1,200 Affordable Japan • A dish at a conveyor-belt (kaiten) sushi restaurant can cost as little as 70p, while a filling snack of noodles at a tachigui-soba stand will set you back only around £1.80. • A single ride on the Tokyo metro is just £1.10 (it’s £2.10£4.50 on the London Underground), or you can get a one-day pass for £4.96. Tokyo Yokohama Station Keikyu airport train/Keikyu train (transfer once) 31min, ¥440 Yokohama City Air Terminal (YCAT) Limousine bus 45min, ¥560 • A cup of coffee costs on average the equivalent of about £1.40 (compared to £1.80 in most major UK coffeeshop chains), while a basic burger at McDonald’s is less than 70p (79p in the UK). • Rooms at traditional-style minshuku inns (Japanese B&Bs) can be had for less than £31 per person. Yokohama Kansai International Airport Kansai International Airport JR Shin-Osaka Station (via Tennoji Station) JR limited express ‘Haruka’ 45min, ¥2,980 (to Tennoji 30min, ¥2,270) JR rapid train 70min, ¥1,320 (to Tennoji 60min, ¥1,030) JR Osaka Station City centre Major hotels PHOTO: MARK BASSETT Nankai Railway limited express ‘rap:t’ 35min, ¥1,390 express 43min, ¥890 Namba Nankai Station Osaka Flying to Japan Airport bus 75min, ¥1,700 JR rapid train 65min, ¥1,160 Airport bus 60min, ¥1,500 Airport bus to Osaka city centre and major hotels, 40-70min, ¥1,500 JR Kyoto Station JR limited express ‘Haruka’ 75min, ¥3,490 JR airport bus 60min, ¥1,830 Airport bus 105min, ¥2,300 Kyoto Osaka Airport (Itami) JR Sannomiya Station JR rapid train 80min, ¥1,660 Airport bus 70min, ¥1,800 Kobe TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 2 9 JNTO3 30-31 GETTING AROUND_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:53 Page 30 Getting Around By air Getting Around The deregulation of Japan’s airline industry and the growth in budget airlines mean that domestic flights have become much cheaper in recent years, making air travel an economical alternative to trains on some routes. In fact, discounted fares are so numerous that few travellers pay the regular full fare. Both JAL and ANA offer air passes for overseas visitors, which allow them to fly anywhere within Japan for around ¥11,000 per flight (up to five flights in total) – a great price for long-distance travel, such as from Tokyo to Kyushu, Okinawa or Hokkaido. As with the Japan Rail Pass, these are open only to non-residents and must be bought outside Japan and before leaving. Travellers must also arrive and depart Japan by international flights. There is a limit of one pass per airline per person and visit, and there are restrictions on travel within peak holiday periods (March, mid July to August, mid December to early January). JAL oneworld Yokoso/ Visit Japan Fare Welcome to Japan Fare www.jal.co.jp/yokosojapan The oneworld Yokoso pass is the cheaper option, but travel to/from Japan must be with oneworld, which includes JAL, British Airways, Cathay Pacific and Qantas. Cost: ¥10,000 per flight, minimum one flight. With the Welcome to Japan Fare, passengers can use any carrier for their international flights. Cost: ¥13,650 per flight, minimum two. ANA Visit Japan Fare www.ana.co.jp/wws/us/e/wws_common/fare/ special/visit.html A very similar set-up to the JAL deals.To qualify for a Japan Airpass, travel to/from Japan must be with a Star Alliance carrier, including ANA, United, Lufthansa and Singapore Airlines. Cost: ¥11,000 per flight, minimum one flight. Any international airline is allowed with the Visit Japan Fare. Cost: ¥13,000 per flight, minimum two. By bus Highway buses (kosoku bus) are a viable alternative to trains for some journeys. Every prefecture and larger city is served by at least one bus company; although buses are significantly slower than express 3 0 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN trains, prices are 20-50 per cent cheaper. Competition on very popular routes, such as Tokyo-Nagoya-KyotoOsaka, makes fares even lower. The journey from Tokyo to Kyoto, for example, takes seven hours, with fares starting at ¥5,000. For more information and reservations, please visit http://willerexpress.com/en/. By train Most of Japan’s vast and efficient rail network is run by Japan Railways (JR). One of the fastest ways to travel is by shinkansen (bullet train), which travels at speeds of over 186 miles (300 kilometres) per hour. Tickets can be purchased at JR reservation ‘Green Window’ areas or travel agents. In Tokyo call the JR East Infoline (050 2016 1603, open 10am to 6pm daily) for travel information in English. There are also lines run by private rail companies, mainly in and around metropolitan areas. Slower, cheaper trains go to many destinations. Marks on the train platforms show where the numbered carriages will stop. Some carriages are reserved seats only (reservations cost extra), but on each train areas are set aside for unreserved seating. Arrive early if you want to sit down. CITY TRANSPORT Japan’s major cities have some of the most efficient train and subway systems in the world: in the rare event of delays in the morning rush, staff give out apology slips for workers to show their bosses. Services are fast, clean, safe, reliable and good value. And – with a little thought and the right map – remarkably easy to use. Subway and train lines are colour-coded for easy navigation, and almost all stations have signs in English, and signs telling you which exit to take. Subways and trains operate from 5am to around midnight (JR lines slightly later). Rush hours are 7.309.30am and 5-7pm, and the last train of the day can be a nightmare. TICKETS & PASSES Standard single tickets can be bought at automatic ticket machines at anystation. Many machines feature a symbol saying which notes they accept. Touch-screen ticket machines can display information in English. Transferring from one line to another, provided it is run by the same operator, will be covered by the price of your ticket. If you need to transfer from one network to another, you will have to buy a transfer ticket (if available) or another ticket at the transfer point. For routes and prices, visit interactive route planner www.jorudan.co.jp/english/. JR Pass The Japan Rail Pass (www. japanrailpass.net) provides for virtually unlimited travel on the entire national JR network, including shinkansen and all JR lines in Tokyo, including the Yamanote line, but excluding the new ‘Nozomi’ super-express shinkansen. It costs from ¥28,300 for seven days, about the same price as a middledistance shinkansen return ticket – it’s essential for travelling around Japan. The JR Pass is available only to visitors from overseas travelling under the status of ‘temporary visitor’, and must be purchased before coming to Japan. You buy an ‘exchange order’ abroad; it’s then changed into an actual pass on arrival in Japan at an exchange office (show your passport). JR East, which runs trains in and around Tokyo, has its own version of the pass (www.jreast. co.jp/e/eastpass), which costs from ¥20,000 for five days. If you’re not intending to travel beyond the JR East area (Tokyo and the area to the north and east), this is a sensible choice. The same conditions apply. JR Pass holders receive discounts of about ten per cent off room rates at JR Hotel Group hotels. A list of almost three dozen affiliated hotels is provided to pass holders. JNTO3 30-31 GETTING AROUND_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:53 Page 31 Buying individual tickets is timeconsuming, so if you’re staying for any length of time you’re better off buying a travel pass of some kind, such as those described below. For travelling from region to region or nationwide, the Japan Rail Pass (see below) is essential. Hakone Freepass www.odakyu.jp/english/freepass/ hakone_01.html A discount excursion ticket, valid for two or three days, covering transport to Hakone from Tokyo and use of transport networks within the Hakone area. The pass also includes discounts to various attractions. Cost: ¥5,000 two days, ¥5,500 three days. Hokkaido Rail Pass www.jrhokkaido.co.jp Gives three days of unlimited use on JR trains and JR-affiliated buses within the AWL Travel www.awlt.com Discover Japan There are two classes of JR Pass: www.discover-japan.co.uk an Ordinary Pass and a first-class Green Pass (the main advantage E-tours of the latter being less crowded www.etours.co.uk trains). Each is available for periods Ffesting Travel of seven, 14 or 21 days. The costs www.ffestiniogtravel.com for adult passes are listed below; Japan Travel Centre children aged six to 11 pay half www.japantravel.co.uk these prices: JRpass.com www.jrpass.com Duration Ordinary Green Inside Japan Tours 7-day ¥28,300 ¥37,800 www.insidejapantours.com 14-day ¥45,100 ¥61,200 International Rail 21-day ¥57,700 ¥79,600 www.internationalrail.com Into Japan Specialist Tours JR PASS AGENTS www.intojapan.co.uk For a complete list of JR Pass Jaltour agents in the UK, refer to www.seejapan.co.uk. www.jaltour.co.uk area and discounts on admission fees to cultural and tourist attractions. Cost: ¥500. Enjoy Eco Card www.kotsu.city.osaka.lg.jp/foreign/english/ ticket/convenient.html Gives unlimited one-day use within Osaka City limits on city-operated subways, New Tram and buses. It also provides discounts on admission fees to cultural and tourist attractions. Cost: ¥800. Sapporo Joint 1-Day Card www.city.sapporo.jp/city/english/index.html Gives unlimited one-day use on subways and trains, as well as buses (except mileagebased fare sections) within Sapporo City limits. Cost: ¥1,000. Tokyo Tour Ticket (Tokyo Furii Kippu) www.jreast.co.jp/e/pass The Tokyo Tour Ticket allows unlimited rides on local and rapid JR East trains within the 23 Special Wards of Tokyo, as well as on the subways, Tokyo Toei streetcars and the Toei Bus system. Cost: ¥1,580. Japan Journeys www.japanjourneys.co.uk JTB UK www.japanspecialist.co.uk Miki Travel www.miki.co.uk Rail Choice www.internationalrail.com Reliance Tours www.reliance-tours.co.uk STA Travel www.statravel.co.uk Travelbag www.travelbag.co.uk Top Tour Europe www.tteuk.com Trailfinders www.trailfinders.com ViaJapan Holidays www.viajapan.co.uk TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 3 1 Getting Around PHOTO: SUPER KOMACHI – EAST JAPAN RAILWAY COMPANY PASS TYPES & COSTS JR Hokkaido area. Buy an Exchange Order in your home country before you travel or purchase the pass in Japan. Cost: ¥15,000. Kansai Area Pass www.westjr.co.jp A one- to four-day pass that offers unlimited use of standard trains and Haruka nonreserved trains in the Kansai area (including Kyoto, Nara, Osaka and Kobe). Cost: ¥2,000 one day, ¥4,000 two days, ¥5,000 three days, ¥6,000 four days. Kansai Thru-Pass www.surutto.com Gives unlimited two- or three-day use on private railways, subways and buses in the Kansai area, as well as discounts on admission fees to cultural and tourist attractions along routes. Cost: ¥3,800 two days, ¥5,000 three days. Minato Burari Ticket www.yokohama-bus.jp/burari/en/index. html Gives unlimited one-day use on subways and buses in and around the Yokohama Port JNTO3 32-36 GENERAL INFO_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:55 Page 32 General Information Conventions & conferences Japan hosts more conventions and exhibitions than any other Asian country, with a huge choice of venues, suppliers and activities. The Japan Convention Bureau can help you find the best fit for your meeting; for more information, contact its London office (020 7283 2130, [email protected]). Customs The duty-free allowances for nonresidents coming into Japan are: 400 cigarettes or 100 cigars or 250g of tobacco; three 750ml bottles of spirits; 57g (2oz) of perfume; gifts or souvenirs up to a value of ¥200,000. There is no limit on the amount of Japanese or foreign currency that can be brought into the country. Driving Driving is not recommended in major cities. However, you may wish to rent a car for travel in rural areas, such as Hokkaido, Tohoku, Shikoku and the like. An international driver’s licence is required by almost all rental firms. Drive on the left side of the road. Most road signs are only in Japanese. For more on driving in Japan, visit the Japan Automobile Federation’s website at www.jaf.or.jp/e/index.htm. For car rental companies in Japan, visit www.seejapan.co.uk. General Information Electricity The electric current in Japan runs at 100V AC, rather than the 220-240V European standard. Plugs have two flat-sided prongs. If bringing electrical appliances from Europe, you’ll need an adapter. Embassies Embassies are usually open 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday. British Embassy 1 Ichibansho, Chiyoda-ku (03 5211 1100, http://ukinjapan.fco.gov.uk/ en/). Hanzomon station (Hanzomon line), exit 4. 3 2 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN Emergencies To contact the police (keisatsu) in an emergency, call 110; to call an ambulance (kyukyu-sha) or fire department (shoubousho), call 119. For a public phone, press the red button first. The person answering should, in theory, speak English. Health Visitors will be expected to pay the full amount for any treatment received, so should take out medical insurance before leaving their own country. No vaccinations are required to enter Japan. Helplines The Japan Helpline is a non-profitmaking worldwide assistance service. Visitors to Japan can call 24 hours a day about anything, from a simple question to emergency help. Japan Helpline 0570 000 911, 0120 461 997 toll-free, www.jhelp.com. Open 24hrs daily. Internet & email Many of Tokyo’s 24-hour manga coffeeshops (manga kissa) also offer cheap internet services, and are usually clustered around train stations. Also try FedEx Kinko’s (www.kinkos.co.jp), which has 24hour locations all around the city. Personal computers fitted with wireless LAN cards that meet the 802.11b WiFi standard can access the internet in many locations around Tokyo. An up-to-date list of wireless hotspots in Japan can be found at www.hotspot-locations.com. Language There is only one official language spoken in Japan, which is, of course, Japanese. However, many Japanese are able to understand English to a certain extent since English is compulsory at school. You don’t need to understand Japanese to get by in Japan, but learning a few everyday phrases goes a long way to breaking the ice. Pronunciation presents few problems for native English-speakers; consonants are pronounced the same as in English, but are always hard: ‘g’ as in ‘girl’, rather than ‘gyrate’, for example. The only exceptions are the ‘l/r’ sound, which is one sound in Japanese and falls halfway between the English pronunciation of the two letters; and ‘v’, which is pronounced as a ‘b’. Remember to separate each syllable; for example, made (until) is pronounced ‘ma-de’, not the English ‘made’. Hello/hi kon nichi wa Good morning ohayoo gozaimasu Good evening kon ban wa Goodbye sayoonara Yes/no hai/iie Please onegai shimasu Thank you ariagatoo Pleased to meet you doozo yoroshiku Excuse me/sorry gomen nasai Cheers! kampai Reading is another matter. The Japanese writing system is fiendishly complicated and is the main deterrent to learning the language. Japanese uses two syllabaries (not alphabets, because the letters represent complete sounds), hirigana and katakana, in conjunction with kanji, characters imported from China centuries ago. Learning katakana is relatively simple and will yield quick results, since it is used mainly to spell out foreign words. Lost property If you leave a bag or package somewhere, just go back: it will probably still be there. If you left it in a train station or other public area, go to the stationmaster’s office or nearest koban (police box) and ask for English-language assistance. Money The yen is not divided into smaller units and comes in denominations of ¥1, ¥5, ¥10, ¥50, ¥100 and ¥500 (coins) and ¥1,000, ¥2,000, ¥5,000 and ¥10,000 (notes). Prices on display must include five per cent sales tax. At the time of writing, £1 = ¥143. JNTO3 32-36 GENERAL INFO_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:55 Page 33 Etiquette A guide to Japanese etiquette could fill volumes and still not capture all the intricacies of the social rules. However, few Japanese understand these rules in any depth, and still fewer expect foreigners to follow them. That leaves just a few basic dos and don’ts to bear in mind. DO • Take your shoes off. Anytime you enter a home, public bath or Japanese-style restaurant or inn. If you see a raised step leading to wood or tatami mats, it’s time to slip on the slippers. • Refuse a compliment. Thanking someone for a flattering comment smacks of arrogance to Japanese ears. • Use the money trays. Many shop staff prefer customers to place their money on small trays. Your change may come this way, or balanced on a banknote. DON’T • Pour your own beer. Hold your glass while a fellow drinker pours, and be sure to keep their glass topped up too. • Place your chopsticks vertically in your food, or use them to pass food. Both signify death. • Blow your nose in public. Sniffle or snort if you need to, but keep the nasal juice in. If you bear these basic rules in mind, your hosts should forgive your more subtle indiscretions. In return, you will need to relax your own rules; bumping and barging are part of life in Japan and rarely elicit an apology. Japan is still a cash-based society, and restaurants and bars may refuse credit cards. Larger shops, hotels and restaurants accept major cards, but you should always keep some cash on you. ATMs are rarely open after 7pm and often close at 5pm on Saturdays. Many banks charge for withdrawals made after 6pm, and on Sundays and public holidays. Still, there is a growing number of 24-hour ATMs in Tokyo, mostly round major train CHANGING MONEY You can cash travellers’ cheques or change foreign currency at any authorised foreign exchange bank (look for the signs). If you want to exchange money outside regular banking hours, some large hotels change travellers’ cheques and currency, as do large department stores, which are open until about 8pm. Narita Airport has several bureaux de change staffed by English-speakers, open daily from 7am to 10pm. Opening hours Department stores and larger shops in Tokyo are open daily from 10am (sometimes earlier, sometimes later) to around 8pm or 9pm. Smaller shops are open the same hours six days a week. Monday and Wednesday are the commonest closing days; Sunday is a normal shopping day. Convenience stores offer 24-hour shopping at slightly higher prices than supermarkets, and are found all over the city. Banks are open 9am to 3pm Monday to Friday. Main post offices are open 9am to 7pm weekdays, and often on Saturdays (usually 9am to 3pm) or even Sundays; smaller post offices close at 5pm Monday to Friday and at weekends. Office hours are 9am to 5pm. On national holidays, many places keep Sunday hours (closing earlier), but most are closed on 1 and 2 January. Most restaurants open at 11am and close around 11pm, though some bars and izakaya (Japanese pubs) are open till 5am. Some don’t close until the last customer has gone. Postal services Sending a postcard overseas costs ¥70; aerograms cost ¥90; letters under 25g cost ¥110. Post offices (yubin-kyoku) – indicated by a red and white sign like a letter ‘T’ with a line over it – are plentiful. Local post offices open from 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday. You can also buy stamps at convenience stores. Religion The Religion Yearbook issued by the Agency for Cultural Affairs suggests that 208 million Japanese are members of religious organisations – and that’s almost twice the population of the country. It’s not unusual for a family to celebrate birth with Shinto rites, tie the knot with a Christian marriage, and pay last respects at a Buddhist ceremony. Freedom of worship is a constitutional right. Safety Japan is one of the safest countries for foreign visitors. Theft is still amazingly rare. Of course, crime does occur from time to time and it’s best to take the usual precautions to keep money and valuables safe. Telephones The country code for Japan is 81. The area code for Tokyo is 03 (for Kyoto it’s 75 and for Okinawa 98) – although you don’t need to dial it when calling from within the city. To phone Tokyo from outside Japan, dial the international access code plus 81 plus 3, followed by the main eight-digit number. Numbers that start with 0120 are freephone (receiver-paid or toll-free). INTERNATIONAL CALLS Different companies provide international call services, and charge roughly the same rates. Dial 001 010 (KDDI), 0061 010 (Softbank) or 0033 010 (NTT Communications), followed by your country’s international code, area code (minus any initial zero) and the phone number. The cheapest time to call overseas is between 11pm and 8am, when an off-peak discount of 40 per cent applies. TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 3 3 General Information information ATMS & CREDIT CARDS stations. All ATMs display logos showing which cards are accepted, but most will not take foreignissued cards. Among the banks, Citibank is the most useful, with 24-hour ATMs all over Tokyo (information 045 330 2890). The ATMs at Narita Airport only work during banking hours, so make sure you have some Japanese cash if arriving early in the morning or late at night. The numerous post offices also have ATMs that allow you to withdraw cash on foreign Visa, Plus, MasterCard, Eurocard, Maestro, Cirrus, AmEx, Diners and JCB cards, and have instructions in English. Since 2007, it also possible to use foreign-issued credit cards at almost 17,000 7-Eleven convenience stores all over Japan. To find an ATM, go to: www. sevenbank.co.jp/english/. JNTO3 32-36 GENERAL INFO_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:55 Page 34 Average temperature & rainfall Sapporo Sendai Tokyo Nagoya Osaka Fukuoka Naha Winter (January) Temp Rainfall °F °C mm 26.4 -4.1 111 34.7 1.5 33 42.4 5.8 49 39.7 4.3 43 42.4 5.8 44 43.5 6.4 72 61.9 16.6 114 Summer (July) Temp Rainfall °F °C mm 68.9 20.5 67 71.8 22.1 160 77.7 25.4 162 78.8 26.0 218 81.0 27.2 155 80.4 26.9 266 83.3 28.5 176 Autumn (October) Temp Rainfall °F °C mm 52.3 11.3 124 58.6 14.8 99 64.8 18.2 163 63.7 17.6 117 65.7 18.7 109 65.7 18.7 81 76.8 24.9 163 Public phones are widely available, in stations, department stores and on the street. You’ll need to buy a prepaid card or have a lot of change (¥10 and ¥100 coins) – some old phones refuse all prepaid cards. Find a grey telephone with ‘International’ on the screen. Blue ‘credit phones’ allow you to make calls using your credit card. Instructions should be given in English as well as Japanese. Tipping Useful websites Tipping is not expected, and people will often be embarrassed if you try. If you leave money at a restaurant, for example, a member of staff may try to return it. At smarter joints, a service charge is often included. Eating out PREPAID PHONE CARDS The Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO) is the national English-language tourist service for visitors to Japan. Its website, www.jnto.go.jp, is packed with useful info, and it also has a UKspecific site, www.seejapan.co.uk. For tourist offices in Tokyo, see page 3; for Kyoto, see page 13. Walking guides, local attractions and restaurant searches are available for smart phones on the JNTO Japan guide: http://m.japan.travel/eng/ index.php. Several kinds of international phone card can be bought in Tokyo, and you can often find promotions for phone cards in free English-language magazines such as Metropolis. KDDI (www.001.kddi.com) produces a ‘Super World’ prepaid card for international calls. The card is sold at most major convenience stores, and comes in five values (¥500, ¥1,000, ¥3,000, ¥5,000 and ¥7,000). It can be used with any push-button phone. MOBILE PHONES General Information Spring (April) Temp Rainfall °F °C mm 44.1 6.7 61 50.2 10.1 98 57.9 14.4 130 57.4 14.1 143 58.6 14.8 121 58.6 14.8 125 70.3 21.3 181 Not all mobile phones from the UK or Europe will work in Japan, though 3G models will – check with your service provider before leaving. Foreign visitors can also rent a Japanese mobile, for use with either a Japanese SIM card or your own SIM. Pick-up points for the phones vary from company to company, but generally include Narita, Kansai and Nagoya international airports, and various major hotels. Reservations can be made before you depart; see www.seejapan.co.uk/JNTO_ Consumer/plan-your-trip/practicalinformation/telephone. Time Japan is nine hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not used. 3 4 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN Tourist information Travellers with disabilities Japan’s buses and trains have special seats for the elderly and disabled, though it’s best to avoid travelling at peak hours. The shinkansen bullet trains have special seats for the disabled that can be booked in advance. More than 4,000 train and subway stations are equipped with lifts or escalators, including those in major tourist areas. An increasing number of hotels offer wheelchairaccessible rooms, though this is the exception rather than the rule. For more on accessibility, see the Japanese Red Cross Language Service Volunteers website at http://accessible.jp.org, or log on to Accessible Japan at www.japan-accessible.com. Restaurant Search www.gnavi.co.jp/en Route planner Hyperdia www.hyperdia.com Jorudan www.jorudan.co.jp/english/ Enter Japanese cities or Tokyo stations and you will be given recommended routes between them. Visa information Embassy of Japan in the UK www.uk.emb-japan.go.jp Weather Japan Meteorological Agency www.jma.go.jp/jma/indexe.html What’s on Metropolis www.metropolis.co.jp Tokyo’s English-language magazine, with listings for clubs, concerts and art galleries. Visas The UK has visa-exemption arrangements with Japan, and its citizens may stay for up to 90 days. Japan also has working holiday visa arrangements with the UK for people aged 18 to 30. For information, go to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.mofa.go.jp). When to go Spring begins with winds and cherry blossom viewing. The rainy season for Honshu (the main island) begins in June. This is followed by the hot, humid days of summer. Autumn sees the changing of the leaves, while winter brings clear skies, cold days and even the occasional snowstorm. Temperatures in Tokyo range from around 3°C (37°F) in January to 35°C (95°F) in July/August. JNTO3 32-36 GENERAL INFO_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:55 Page 35 Summer in Tokyo can be unbearable for those not used to humidity. Carry a fan, some water and a wet cotton cloth with you. Fans are often handed out in the street as part of advertising campaigns. Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are the nicest times to visit Tokyo. The two big holiday periods, when much of Tokyo shuts down, are Golden Week (29 April-5 May) and the New Year (28 Dec-4 Jan). A collective of owners of mid-priced hotels. The website offers direct links to each member hotel. Japan Economy Hotel Group www.kid97.co.jp/~jeh-group/jehgroup.html Reasonable room rates, convenient locations and comfortable rooms with bath and toilet, at hotels across Japan. Japan Hotel Association www.j-hotel.or.jp An umbrella organisation composed of the leading hotels of Japan. All member hotels have received a ministerial seal of approval. Japan Ryokan Association www.ryokan.or.jp Over 1,400 quality establishments. JRA members must comply with a host of regulations relating to aesthetics, privacy and hygiene. Japan Youth Hostels www.jyh.or.jp/english/ Some 350 facilities scattered throughout the country from Hokkaido to Okinawa, offering accommodation from ¥3,000 per night. Japanese Inn Group www.jpinn.com An umbrella organisation founded and run by ryokan owners across Japan, offering direct links to members’ premises via its website (which also has a great FAQ section). PUBLIC HOLIDAYS Japan has 14 public holidays: New Year’s Day (Ganjitsu) 1 January; Coming of Age Day (Seijin no Hi) second Monday in January; National Foundation Day (Kenkoku Kinen no Hi) 11 February; Vernal Equinox Day (Shumbun no Hi) around 21 March; Greenery Day (Midori no Hi) 29 April; Constitution Day (Kempo Kinenbi) 3 May; Children’s Day (Kodomo no Hi) 5 May; Marine Day (Umi no Hi) 20 July; Respect for the Aged Day (Keiro no Hi) 15 September; Autumnal Equinox Day (Shubun no Hi) around 23 September; Sports Day (Taiiku no Hi) second Monday in October; Culture Day (Bunka no Hi) 3 November; Labour Thanksgiving Day (Kinro Kansha no Hi) 23 November; Emperor’s Birthday (Tenno Tanjobi) 23 December. Fancy a futon? Where to stay BOOKING OUTFITS The following agencies offer online reservations for hotels and ryokans of various categories nationwide. Japan City Hotel Association www.jcha.or.jp/en If you can bear to forgo a few home comforts, such as a bed and soft pillow, then staying in a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) is a great choice, particularly since they tend to be cheaper than Western-style hotels. Ryokan also make excellent lodgings for groups of more than two: you can have as many futons as you can fit on the tatami (straw mat) floor, for an extra charge that is significantly less than the price of another room. There are a few matters of ryokan etiquette. First, remove your shoes when entering. Staff will show you to your room, and introduce you to the waiting flask of hot water and green tea. Decor will include a shoji (sliding paper screen) and a tokonoma (alcove), which is for decoration not for storing luggage. Inside a cupboard you will find a yukata (dressing gown, worn left side over right) and tanzen (bed jacket), for indoor wear. By day the futons are folded away in a cupboard, providing much more living space than a room with fixed beds. Staff will make up the futons at around 8pm. They’ll be back the following morning at about 8am with breakfast. More expensive ryokan usually have private bathrooms, but at the cheaper end of the scale you will be expected to bathe Japanese-style in a communal bath. Most ryokan are family-run, so many impose a curfew of 11pm. If you’re going to be out later, tell your hosts. If a curfew doesn’t suit you, check with the individual ryokan in advance. TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN 3 5 General Information information Japan’s accommodation scene is everything you would expect from one of the world’s most developed countries. Choices range from highly exclusive hotels to humble rooms with straw mats. Budget travellers should be able to find somewhere to sleep and still have money left over for noodles. A traditional Japanese-style inn (known as a ryokan) provides a great way to enhance your enjoyment of Japan. Or if you’re interested in meeting locals in a domestic environment, minshuku are the equivalent of a Western B&B. JNTO3 32-36 GENERAL INFO_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 10:55 Page 36 For Tour Operators & Agencies JNTO London Trade website is designed to give travel professionals the knowledge and contacts they need to sell Japan. Visit www.seejapan.co.uk/jnto_trade/trade_home. JAPAN ONLINE TRAINING GROUND ARRANGEMENTS In 2012, 174,163 UK travellers visited Japan – the highest number among European countries. This number is increasing, but how much do you know about Japan? JNTO’s Japan online training is very simple, concise and consists of only six modules packed with essential knowledge to sell Japan. Once you have completed the modules, you will feel confident to recommend Japan holidays to your clients. The modules are: The ‘Planning’ page of the website contains airline and ground handler contacts. 1. Japan Basics 1 How to get to Japan, flight information, the best time to visit. 2. Japan Basics 2 Visas, mobile phones and money. 3. Japanese Culture Is Japan expensive? Japanese cuisine. 4. Stay and Explore Learn about the JR Pass, the top-value train discount. 5. Golden Route Popular tourist routes for first-time visitors. 6. Special Interests Cultural experiences, skiing and anime. IMAGES, BROCHURES & MATERIALS Digital Japan images suitable for websites and printing are free to download from the ‘Image Library’. JNTO also provides useful maps and guides for your reference and for your clients. A general Japan guide and popular destination guides are available. Please email us what you require and your postal address; we will select suitable material for your needs and send it to you (subject to availability). STATISTICS JNTO releases monthly visitor arrival reports, including visitor numbers by market. Go to ‘Statistics’ to see the latest Japan tourism statistics. LATEST OFFER PROMOTION Please inform us of your best travel deals and we’ll upload them to the ‘Latest Offer’ page free of charge. FIND YOUR TRIP SEARCH We have a Trip search engine for Japan products operated by UK tour operators. If your company is not yet included, please let us know. TRAINING AT YOUR COMPANY For Tour Operators & Agencies Free Japan sales training for reservation teams is also available, so please get in touch. 3 6 TIME OUT ESSENTIAL JAPAN Trade contact: [email protected] 020 7398 5670 JNTO3 BACKCOVER_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 11:02 Page 37 EXPLORE FROM THE INSIDE OUT Time Out Guides written by local experts Our city guides are written from a unique insider’s perspective by teams of local writers, covering 50 destinations. visit timeout.com/store ‘UNSURPASSABLE’ The Times JNTO3 BACKCOVER_JNTO Supplement 26/02/2013 11:02 Page 38 Japan National Tourism Organization Need to know more about Japan? Contact the Japan National Tourism Organization’s London office – the best source of Japan travel information. For a free Japan information pack, please email [email protected] or telephone 020 7398 5678. You can also visit the JNTO office at 5th Floor, 12 Nicholas Lane, London EC4N 7BN. Office hours are Monday to Friday 9.30am to 5.30pm. Extensive travel information, and a full list of tour operators offering Japan cruises and holidays, can be found on the JNTO website www.seejapan.co.uk Contact your local Japan specialist to book a Japan holiday: