decades - Textiles Scotland
Transcription
decades - Textiles Scotland
ISSUE 6 DECADES OF DESIRABILITY INTRICATE INNOVATION THE ART+SCIENCE OF STYLE Linda wears Navy Cobweb Lace from the Galloway Collection by MYB Textiles in her hair and on her face. contents FRONT COVER: OUR LIST… ObjectsofaffectionfromScotland DECADES OF DESIRABILITY Unrivalledhistorywithadmirers acrosstheglobe SCRUMPTIOUS SCARVES Snapshotofneckwearcouture INDULGENT INTERIORS Delectablehomewear FLAVOURSOME FINISHING Youareneverfullydressedwithout a…pieceofScottishtextiles PHOTOSHOOT Contemporarycouturefrom Scotland ART + SCIENCE OF STYLE Acreativepassionandforensic attentiontodetailisinScottish Textiles’DNA INTRICATE INNOVATION Textilesthatperformfarand beyondexpectations ONES TO WATCH RisingstarsfromScotland FIND US Youknowyouwantto… 4 6 14 16 18 19 26 32 36 44 GET IN TOUCH WITH US… Gold Belladonna Dress by Obscure Couture; Kessel Harris Tweed Jacket from Saunt & Sinner, available exclusively from www.wecraveit.com; Etched Brass Teardrop Hat from the Georgia Wiseman X William Chambers Collaboration part of the Queen of Scots Collection by William Chambers Millinery; Khors Necklace and Single Maharajah Necklace, both by Euan McWhirter; with a Twin Lens Rolleiflex Camera, courtesy of Paul Bock, photographer. Hair by Gary Lees; Make up by Ana Cruzalegui; Styling by Genuine & Weber Shandwick. Photographer: Anna Isola Crolla. 2 Youcangetintouchdirectlywithanyofthecompanies featuredinthemagazine,pleasefindallthedetailson pages44to46.Ifyouwanttofindoutmoreaboutthe Scottishtextilesindustryingeneralpleaseemailusat [email protected] A warmwelcome toissue6of magazine–a TextilesScotlandpublication. Insidethiseditionwewilltakeyouona journeyofourindustryandwhypeople desireScottishtextilesproductsthe worldover. Wealsolookathowover8,000people whoworkinthesectorarebothartists ANDscientists,withthecreativecraft coupledwithaforensicapproach. Innovationisakeydriverinourmarket, withcompaniesconstantlypushingthe boundaries,openingupnewrealmsof opportunitiesfornewcollaborations, performancetextilesandtextiles solutions. Finally,alongwithourusualmust-have productsandaccessories,wehavepicked asmallsectionofourcreativepipeline– althoughasacountryburstingwithtalent wecoulddedicateamagazineinitselfto ourrisingstars. Asalways,pleaseread,digest,enjoy andexplorewhatwehavetoofferfrom Scotland. The team ALSO FIND US AT… www.textilescotland.com www.facebook.com/textilesscotland www.twitter.com/TextilesScot www.linkedin.com/company/textiles-scotland www.youtube.com/TextilesScotland www.pinterest.com/textilescotland www.issuu.com/textilesscotland Producedby www.webershandwick.scot +44(0)1413330557 Don’tforgettotweetus @TextilesScotusing#modhmag 3 LIST 2 1 OUR Objectsof affection fromScotland 3 CLOSE YOUR EYES, BLOW, AND MAKE A WISH FOR THIS STYLE SO SWEET JammyHeartCharm NecklacebyNikki McWilliams www.nikkimcwilliams.com DandelionPrintGentlemen’sGiftSet featuringRedCottonLibertyBowTieand MatchingPocketSquarebyFionaHeather www.fionaheather.co.uk THE NEW NECK COUTURE CashmereandMerinoRollNeckBibby Camerontaylor*,Hand-knittedbyERIBÉ Knitwearavailableinvariouscolours www.cameron-taylor.com 4 RECYCLING MADE RETRO Multi-colouredRecycled HarrisTweedCapby Fabhatrix www.fabhatrix.com 4 5 6 BROGUES OF DISTINCTION NavyBlueCalfLeatherBrogues featuringaJohnstonsofElginEstate Tweed,byBuchananBespoke www.buchananbespoke.com 7 THE ESSENTIAL WRAP FOR A WILD NIGHT OUT WildStoleinHarrisTweed withLuxuryCoquilleFeather TrimandSilkLiningby CatherineAitken www.catherineaitken.com 8 WILL CERTAINLY SUIT YOU SIR HandScreen-printed Linen,CordandFineWool EmbroideredStrawDot DetailTiebyIncahoots withRoobedo www.roobedo.com 9 PERFECT EXCUSE TO GET SHIRTY PrintedLadies’Shirts, usinghand-drawnprints inspiredbynatureand thechangingseasonsby Gibson&Birbeck gibsonandbirkbeck.co.uk PATCHING THE PULLOVER CHIC LadiesandGentsLambswool CrewNeckPulloverswith HarrisTweedElbowPatches byHawickKnitwear www.hawickknitwear.com 10 THE ONLY WAY TO COVER UP THE ‘CAHOONAS’ LimitedEditionRoyal StewartTartanTrunkmade withTopQualityDrumspun andWarpKnittedBritish Microfibre www.cahoonas.co.uk 5 DEC ADES OF DESIRABILITY Quality and luxury have been drawing clients from around leading fashion ho the world – from uses such as Chan el and Hermès to the luxurious car man world’s most ufacturers and airlin es such as Lamborg Singapore Airlines hini, BMW and – to Scottish textile s for decades. Victoria wears Barbosella Ballgown Top; Delphinium Ballgown Skirt and Narcissus Skirt designed exclusively by Obscure Couture available from www.wecraveit.com; and Liberty Lucky Bitches Ring by Euan McWhirter. Hair by Gary Lees; Make up by Ana Cruzalegui; Styling by Genuine & Weber Shandwick. Photographer: Anna Isola Crolla. 6 7 T Andthere’sasenseofhistorytoo,ofskillspassed downthroughthegenerationstosonsand daughters.JohnstonsofElginhasthrivedasan independentfamilyfirmsinceitwasfoundedin 1797.RosieSugdenlearnedthetradeatthefeet ofherfatherJames,groupmanagingdirectorfor morethan20years,andnowproducesherown rangeoffashion-forwardcashmereaccessories. 8 KnockandoWoolmillhasgoneevenfurther back.Its1730Tartancollectionfeatures the‘BridesPlaid’,originallywoveninthe 18thcenturyfrompuresilk.Thepatternwas discoveredinthearchiveoftheHighlandFolk MuseuminNewtonmoreandincorporates eightcoloursinahighlydetailedpattern. Suchcomplexitywouldhavetakengreatskill tohandweaveover280yearsago,andthe beautifulpatternhasbeenrecreatedforthis decade. Anotherfamilybusiness,BreanishTweed, painstakinglyhandweaveslambswool,Shetland woolandcashmereona90-year-oldloomfrom itsbaseontheIsleofLewis,creatinglightweight fabricthatiscovetedallovertheworld,from SavileRowinLondontoFifthAvenueinNewYork. KinlochAnderson,anEdinburghfamilyfirm,has beenproducingkilts,tartanandHighlanddress since1868.AndMYBTextiles,whoselacehas appearedinITV’sMrSelfridgeandtheSexand theCityfilm,hasbeenmakingScottishlaceand madrasintheIrvineValleysince1900. timeline Kynoch1788,basedinLangholminthe Borders,istakingadifferentapproach,pulling designsfromitsarchiveinthe1960sand 1970sheavywoolfabrics–andbringingthem uptodatebyaddingcottontocreateamore lightweightfabricforthemodernmarketplace. And there’s a sense of history too, of skills passed down through the generations to sons and daughters. Notably,fewofthesebusinessesarecity based.Instead,theybringtheworldtothe townsandvillageswhosefarmsandrivers haveprovidedthelifebloodofthetextiles industryforcenturies,andcontinuetoprovide inspirationforthenewgenerationofdesigners livingthere. Bringingusbanguptodate,butstillwithanod tothepast,asthe2014EuropeanRyderCup teamswungtheirwaytotriumph,100-year-old HarrisTweedHebrideswascelebratingavictory ofitsown,thankstobumpersalesofitsofficial tweedforthechampionship,featuringalush blueyarnrepresentingtheHebrideansky andsea. KirsteenStewart’sworktakesitsleadfromthe lightandever-changingskiesoverOrkney. Hernewcollection,TheMapsStory,takes thathistoricalconnectionfurther,inspired bytraditionalnauticalmapsusedbythe ArchangelShipinthe1730s. Team Europe Shirts and Sweaters for the 2014 Ryder Cup at Gleneagles made by Glenmuir. Tweed appears as part of the celebration of King George IV’s visit to Edinburgh, and is later sported by Sir Walter Scott in a pair of fetching trews. American entrepreneur Henry Lee Norris lands on Scottish soil and promptly founds the North British Rubber Company, later to be known as Hunter, producing waterproof boots using the exciting new vulcanisation process. Barrie mill is established in the Borders. In 2012, it is acquired by Chanel. Lyle & Scott embarks on the first of many designer collaborations, creating branded cashmere for Christian Dior. It has gone on to work with Yves Saint Laurent, Liberty, Bergdorf Goodman, Michael Kors and, most recently, Glasgow-born designer Jonathan Saunders. 1822 1856 1903 1954 1823 1892 1909 1930 1962 Charles Macintosh patents the invention for a new waterproof cloth in 1823, and the first Mackintosh coats are made in the family’s Glasgow factory. Peter Anderson of Lochcarron opens his own small weaving shop. The firm is to become the world’s leading manufacturer of tartan. The Harris Tweed Orb is granted trademark status, meaning only fabric woven on the islands of the Outer Hebrides can carry the coveted label. The twin-set is born, thanks to Pringle of Scotland. To confirm its relevance on the fashion scene, it appears on the cover of Vogue. The brand is soon a favourite of the dapper Duke of Windsor and adopted by the rest of the fashionable set of the time. Coco Chanel chooses fabrics by Bernat Klein for her spring/ summer collection, leading to an avid following for the Serbianborn, Borders-based textile designer among the world’s leading couture houses. 9 A Selection of Yarns from Scott & Charters. Wordisnowspreadingandthefirmhas alsoproducedfabricsforthestellarhomes ofHarrisonFord,StevenSpielberg,George ClooneyandDustinHoffman. Such complexity would have taken great skill to hand-weave over 280 years ago. Andit’sanindustryfullofsurprises.When ChanelboughttheBarriemillbackin2012, somewonderedwhytheParisiancouture housemightbeinterestedinacquiring anunassumingbusinesstuckedawayin theScottishBorders.Thebiggersurprise, however,wasthatthelabelhadbeen gettingitsexquisitecatwalkcashmere madebytheartisancraftsmentherefor decades.Theinvestmentnotonlysaved 176jobs–significantinitself–butsaved skillsthatarenowbeingpassedontoa newgeneration. 10 Moresurprises:thecurtainsthathanginthe OvalOfficeoftheWhiteHousewerecreated, notinanindustrialUSfactoryorbyanUptown Manhattaninteriordesigner,butbyafamily firmindeepestBiggar.Consider,ifyouwill, MichelleObamawavingoffGeorgeandBarbara BushontheWhiteHousesteps,thenturning backtothefamily’sprivatewingandthinking: “OK,wheredoIstart?”Shestartedbypersonally choosingfabricsfromCalzeattodecoratetheir newhome.TheFirstFamilywassopleasedwith theresultsthatCalzeatwaschosenagainwhen itcametimetoreplacethepreviousoccupant’s dowdymustard-colouredcurtainsintheOval Officewithsomethingalittlemorecheery. Interiorsisanincreasinglyexcitingarea forthetextilesindustry.HarrisTweedwas usedasthedominantupholsteryfabricin Glasgow’sBlythswoodSquarehotel.And companiessuchasMcNaughtonHoldings Ltd,establishedin1783andincorporating brandssuchasTheHouseofEdgar,TheIsle MillandViyellaHome,continuetocreate furniturethatisastimelessastheScottish landscape. Butitshouldcomeasnosurprisetoknow thiscenturies-oldindustryisembracingthe ageoftheinternet.Earlierthisyear,Make Workswaslaunched,adigitaldirectorythat pullsallthesemakers,suppliersandfactories together–fromjewellerstosailmakersto rugmakersandprintmakers–connecting customerswiththelocalcraftspeoplethey’re lookingfor. Andnewfashiontechbrand–Crave–an onlinemagazineaimedathelpingthe world’sbloggersmakemoneyfromtheir content.Ittookitsvisiononestepfurther bycommissioningexclusivedesignsfrom Scotland’smostexcitingdesigners. Aspartofthatcollection,ObscureCouture,a brandthatcreatesthesortofcollectionsthathas KateMoss’sstylistonspeeddialandhasmade themfavouritesofFrenchVogue,collaborated withtextiledesignersNaromodetodelivera duchesssatindesignfeaturingover-sizedjewels andinsects.AndSaunt&Sinner’sstand-out designisalimitededitionpowderblueHarris Tweedcoat,linedinmatchingsilk,forAW15. Itisthisrespectyoungdesignersmaintainfor thecraftsandfabricthatmakeupthecountry’s heritageandmakesthemstandoutinan overcrowdedindustry:Ten30creatingjacketsin HarrisTweedandCalzeatfabricandBuchanan BespokeworkingwithJohnstonsofElgin. Andnowhereisitmoreevidentthaninafrock coatbyJudyRClark,featuringpheasantfeathers, HarrisTweed,MYBlaceandanabstractprintby TimorousBeasties.SeveralgenerationsofScottish designexcellencecomingtogethertocreateone spectacularpiece. Therearealsonewplatformsfortheindustryto takemoreofthe‘desire’messagetotheworld. ScotlandRe:Designedisanexcitingproject whichchampionsthesectorthroughashowcase ofexhibitions,workshopsandshows,exciting buyers,mediaandconsumers. The sector has a history that is hard to rival, a present that is full of success and a future that only few could imagine. Jaeger-trained designer Jean Muir sets up her own label. Though Muir was born in London, her father was Aberdonian and she credited her Scottish roots for her strong work ethic. Jonathan Saunders is born in Glasgow. The designer has gone on to win the Fashion Enterprise Award from the British Fashion Council and British Designer of the Year. Timorous Beasties is established by Alistair McAuley and Paul Simmons, who met while studying textile design at Glasgow School of Art. Displaying a chic irreverence to design, the pair have created exclusive lines for the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, Brintons carpets, Liberty of London and John Lewis. The Scottish Register of Tartans is established by an act of the Scottish Parliament to protect, preserve and promote the cloth. Scottish textiles takes Russia by storm in the ‘From Scotland with Love’ showcase. In Peter Jackson’s film The Hobbit, elves and hobbits sport capes made by Scalpay Linen, based on the Outer Hebrides. Designed by Brian Wilton at the Scottish Tartans Authority, a variation of the Black Watch tartan is created for the Japanese department store Isetan. 1966 1977 1990 2008 2010 2012 2014 1968 1981 2006 2011 2012 London tailors Holland & Sherry buy a Scottish cloth merchant based in Peebles and make the unusual decision to relocate their entire distribution there. The first jacket is made by Aero Leather Clothing. The Galashiels-based haven to leather has since created flying jackets for the likes of Daniel Craig, Johnny Depp and Hugh Laurie. A long-haired Central Saint Martins graduate by the name of Christopher Kane wins the Harrods Design Award, a cheque for £1,500, and a showpiece window in the luxury department store. The rest is history. Brooks Brothers’ Chairman and CEO Claudio Del Vecchio hosts a celebration of Scottish textiles at the company’s flagship store on Madison Avenue, New York. Chanel buys Barrie Knitwear in Hawick after working closely with the factory for 25 years, producing cashmere knitwear including Chanel’s iconic two-tone cashmere cardigans. 11 ES RI O SS CE AC The sector has a history that is hard to rival, a present that is full of success and a future that only few could imagine. Highland Society Collection by The Isle Mill. 100% Silk Crepe de Chine Distortion Mist Silk Scarf by Taisir Gibreel. Photographer: Ross Fraser McLean. 12 13 SCRUMPTIOUS SCARVES From cashmere to silk, digitally printed to hand-crafted, there is a yummy Scottish scarf to suit everyone’s palate. Here is a small taster on what the industry has to offer… 6 1 2 5 3 4 7 1 HELEN RUTH SCARVES Accessorieslabel specialisingin digitallyprintedsilk andwoolscarves, producedand hand-finishedin Scotland. www.helenruth.co.uk 14 2 ROSIE SUGDEN Cashmere collectionwithan idiosyncratictake oncontemporary designfusedwith thenaturalbeautyof Scottishcashmere. www.rosiesugden.com 3 CORA STUDIO Doublejersey, reversiblecollection inspiredbyan astronaut’spictures, knittedbyEMB KnitwearusingTodd &Duncanyarn. www.corastudio.co.uk 4 CARI & CO 100%lambswool scarveswithapplique decorationofHarris Tweedandfelted woolScottieDogs. www.cariandco.com 5 PAPER_HOUSES Adaptabledesigns andworkableshapes aretheguiding principlesbehind thisquality Scottishbrand. 6 www.mhairimcdowall.co.uk EDITION SCOTLAND Signaturecashmere accessoriesfor men,knittedand hand-finishedto thehigheststandard intheScottishBorders. 8 7 www.editionscotland.com MURRAY HOGARTH Wholesalerangeof fashionaccessories fromcontemporary cutting-edgeprint designtotraditional wovenScottish tartans. www.murrayhogarth.co.uk 8 BEGG & CO Exquisitepieces, demonstrating centuriesofchicby mastercraftsman, usingonlythefinest rawfibresandenviable attentiontodetail. www.beggand company.com 15 INDULGENT INTERIORS The touches of elegance needed in every home can be found in Scotland. Here are a few gems which we think would be the icing on the cake for any room… 1 4 2 3 1 LUCY DONNELL TheParaHandyCollection oflambswoolaccessories andinteriorsinspired bythemuchlovedtales ofNeilMunroaboutThe VitalSparkpufferboat adventures. www.lucydonnell.co.uk 16 2 MOODY MONDAY Contemporaryhand-printed wallpaper,fabricsand homeware,includinganew rangeofmelamineplacemats, destinedtobringthattouchof individualityandluxurytoany interiorspace. www.moodymonday.co.uk 5 3 WE ARE RUSHWORTH Alabelfortriersanddoers. It’sbold,braveandhasa bitofattitude,producing productsthatarejustas goodasahug–likethis handmadewoolblanket. www.wearerushworth.com 4 CATHERINE MACGRUER Acollectionofmerino blanketsandcushions combiningboldpatterns andcoloursfromtheeclectic styleofBarcelonanmosaics, aperfectstatementpiecefor thehome. www.catherinemacgruer.com 5 ARAMINTA CAMPBELL Thelatestcushionsand blanketsrangeaddto theone-offhandwoven collectionfromthisbrand andareanidealchoicefor addingsomeluxurytoan interiorsetting. www.aramintacampbell.co.uk 6 6 DANA FINNIGAN Thisinteriorstextilesbrand isinfluencedbybothart nouveauandartdeco,with aself-confessed‘masculine collage’style,makingit capableofcateringfor everyindividualtaste. www.danafinnigan.com 17 FLAVOURSOME FINISHING Seasoning an outfit is very important so here are a few flavoursome finishing touches few can afford not to have to hand... 1 2 4 5 1 CAMERON taylor* Timelessleather essentials craftedin collaboration withMackenzie Leather. www.camerontaylor.com 18 2 3 LAURA SPRING Fashion accessories specialist withan unmistakable trademark weathertheme. www.laura spring.co.uk JOYCE YOUNG Fauxfurand tartancollars andcuffs,cosy funforall. www.tartan spirit.com to modern day fashion. Drawing on influences from the natural beauty of the land fused with present-day artistic talent and using both old and new world skills, these are clothes that make an unforgettable first impression. We declare a renewed force to be reckoned with from Scotland. 3 4 HILARY GRANT Luxury knitwear, beautiful, colourfuland practical, knittedin Scotland. 5 Powerful statement pieces bring a contemporary attitude KNOCKANDO WOOLMILL 1730TartanNeck Tie,apattern resurrectedfrom thearchivesfor modern-day. Hair by Gary Lees; Make up by Ana Cruzalegui; Model Linda Young from Model Team; Styling by Genuine & Weber Shandwick. Photographer: Anna Isola Crolla. www.knockando woolmill.co.uk www.hilary grant.co.uk 19 Hanneke Dress: visionary bespoke Madras Lace Gown featuring tonal black on silver Kelpies inspired design, with trailing bias cut train and saddlery inspired cut with silhouette skimming contour and concealed zip fastening from Iona Crawford’s Beauty and the Beasts Capsule Collection; Swarovski Crystal Set Shard Earrings by Euan McWhirter; Black Ottie’s Stole from Shetland Lace Shawls Hand Knitted in 1-ply Shetland Lace Wool using a combination of Traditional Lace Patterns, The Cat’s Paw and The Bead. 20 Cashmere Gingham Green Wrap by Queene & Belle and Pringle Tricot Dress, both available from Jane Davidson www.janedavidson.co.uk; Apple Lucky Bitches Ring by Euan McWhirter. 21 Black Lace Joplin Dress by Mairi McDonald available from Jane Davidson www.janedavidson.co.uk; Timorous Beasties Coat by Judy R Clark made with Timorous Beasties Thunder Bloth Fabric, Harris Tweed and MYB lace; Harris Tweed Wrap Belt from Catherine Aitken; Cut Gold Veiled Disc Hat from William Chambers Millinery. 22 White Cosmic Dress and Black Cosmic Dress both by Rebecca Torres; Ruby Red Gigi Felt Hat by Sally-Ann Provan; Red Leather Handbag by Dunmore Scotland. 23 Floccus Dress from The Skies Collection by Kirsteen Stewart; Harris Tweed Virginia Coat by Walker Slater; Rock Crystal Necklace by Euan McWhirter; Granny Tweed Dinkybag made from Wool by Impractical Clothes. 24 Valentina Gown from the Black Butterflies Collection by Kirsty Elizabeth; Rosette Headpiece from the Origami Collection from Pea Cooper Millinery; Jet Boa Necklace, Rope Bracelets in Jet and Bronze and Black, and Gold Polka Rope Bracelet, all by Euan McWhirter. 25 ART SCIENCE Victoria is draped in Calzeat Distressed Paisley Wool/Linen Double Cloth Fabric, wearing Giant Pearl Rope Necklace by Euan McWhirter; Cream Lace Cuffs by Judy R Clark Featuring MYB Lace; Blue Harris Tweed Long Boots by Manderina; resting on a Mode Floor Cushion by Bluebellgray, holding a selection of fabric swatches by Alexanders of Scotland and Kynoch1788 and surrounded by fabrics from Alexanders of Scotland, Bute Fabrics, Calzeat, D.C. Dalgliesh, Harris Tweed Hebrides, Johnstons of Elgin and Natasha Marshall, with Strathearn Modern Tartan and Misty Blue Dalgliesh Signature Plaid Stoles by D.C. Dalgliesh. STYLE OF 26 27 Q uality. Attentiontodetail. Intricatecraftsmanship. It’sourparticularwayofseeingaproductthat makesScottishtextilestheenvyoftheworld. HarrisTweedweaversillustratethatperfectly. Eachloomhasitsownquirksandfoibles, soeachweaverhastogettoknowitand understanditswaysinstinctively,beforethey cangetthebestoutofit. AndofcoursetheScottishindustrymakes workingwiththeluxuriousfibrecashmere lookeasy,despitethepainstakinglengthsthe companiesgotoensuringonlythehighest qualityproductreachescustomers. Thiscuriouslyintimaterelationshipisechoed throughouttheindustry–fromthesmallest cottageartisantothoseatthelargerendofthe scale.Itisanartandeverythingwedo,wedo withforensicprecision.Eachpieceoffabricor wallpaperorleatherhasastorytotell;apast thatisrootedinthepeople,theiruniqueskills, andthenumberofmanhoursthatwentinto creatingit. 34mm ThelengthofgradeAcashmereusedinScottish mills.Thelongerfibresarestrongerandmuch moredurable. 28 100+ Theinternationalmarketsinwhich Scottishfashionandinteriorshave apresence.TheseincludetheUSA, Japan,RussiaandEurope. 4 Thenumberofmetres offabricaHarrisTweed weaverwillcreateinan hour,watchingallthe timeforflaws. 4,000 That’saconservative estimateofthenumber ofpatternsandcolour combinationsinHarris Tweed’spatternbooks. 5 Theaveragenumberofouncesof woolacashmeregoatwillproduce eachyear.Ittakesatleastfour yearstoproduceenoughtomake asinglepieceofchild’sclothing. 8 Thenumberofyardsoffabric requiredtomakeafullkilt. Thisisregardlessofsize;the numberandthedepthofthe pleatsareadjustedtomake itsmallerorlarger. 541 Thenumberof businessesin Scotlandmaking textiles,clothing andleather products. 10,000 Thecataloguenumberofthe ScottishRegisterofTartans’ tartan,thefirsttobelisted, on5February2009. 8,400 Thenumberofpeopleemployed intheScottishtextilesindustry. Victoria wears a Raey Ash Trench Coat from Iona Crawford’s Beauty and the Beasts Capsule Collection; and Lola Glasses in Jade Green by Niche Optical Tailor as she admires a work of fabric art from Johnstons of Elgin, D.C. Dalgliesh and Calzeat. 29 Vascutek Circular Knitted Arterial Graft for Medical Implant. Thisscientificapproachiscoreinourtechnical textilesoffering.Scotlandhasaglobalreputation fortheproductionofthehighestqualityadvanced materials.Itmaysurprisemanytoknowjusthow ourtextilesareusedacrossmanyotherareas, fromairbagstoartificialgrasstoheatedrunway stripstobullet-proofvests. Onekeyareafortheindustryisitscontributionto medicaladvances.Withproductssuchasvascular implants,activatedcarbonfiltersandevendental floss,anumberofcompaniesarethego-toexpert inthisarea. Ahlstromisrenownedforitshigh-techfabrics usedinlabcoats,facemasksandbarriercloths, whileDuPontTeijinFilmsinDumfrieshasbeen providinginnovativefilmicsolutionswithits polyesterfilmsnowthebuildingblockswhich enableaworldofapplicationsinarangeof marketsectors.AndVascutekisleaderinitsfield, developinggroundbreakingproductswhichhave revolutionisedthemedicalprofession. Buttherearemanyotherareasjustas reliantonourtechnicaltextiles.Protective vestsusedbythepoliceandspecial forces,glovesdesignedforcombat,and protectiveballistichelmetswornbythe world’smilitaryincombatzonesare madeinGlasgowbySarkarDefence. AndacompanyinRoss-shire–SGL Technic–isresponsibleforprovidingthe materialusedinhalftheworld’saircraft brakediscs,whileitscarbonandoxide fibreproductsareusedinindustriesas satisfyinglydiverseasleisure,computing andFormulaOneracing.Nottomention Fife-basedScott&Fyfe,establishedback in1864,whichmakesitemsasdiverseas carairbagsandtennisnets. Andlet’stalkaboutCulzeanTextiles SolutionsinKilmarnock.Ithasonlycome upwiththeconceptofdesigningcables ofwovenaluminumwirethatsendNASA spacecraftintoorbit.Notsatisfiedwiththat space-ageinvention,theboffinsatCulzean –whosaytheyknitandseweverything EXCEPTclothing–havealsoconcocteda seamlessairbagthatisnowtheindustry standardintheautomobileindustry,a revolutionarysuspensionsystemforlorries and–getthis–achew-proofnetforthe delicatetaskofmovingpiranhafishfrom theirtanks. From left to right: J&D Wilkie Ltd, Culzean, Culzean, Culzean, Scott & Fyfe, J&D Wilkie Ltd 30 31 You’re sitting in the first class cabin of one of the world’s most prestigious airlines. OK, perhaps hard for some of us to imagine I know, but try. Think luxury. Think space. Think sumptuous leather seats you sink your travel-weary body into while the champagne is poured and you prepare for take-off. Chances are that butter-soft leather that is hugging your hind quarters was crafted right here in Scotland. Muirheadistheworld’sNo.1leathersupplier totheaircraftindustry.Itsfabricisusedby morethan160airlinesin60countries,andthe companywasmostrecentlycommissionedto supplyseatingforBritishAirways’European fleetupgradeandforthebusinessclass cabinsacrossSingaporeAirlines.Otherno lessprestigiousclientsincludeLamborghini, HiltonHotels,P&OandtheNationalMuseumof Scotland. ReplinFabrics,too,providesfabricforthe transportationindustryfromitsbaseinPeebles, withcompaniessuchasKLM,Airbus,Lufthansa, EasyjetandAeroflotamongitsclients.It’s possible,then,thattheworld’stransportation networkmightgrindtoanignominioushalt withoutScottishtextilesholdingittogether. Innovation Suchlevelsofinnovationarenotunusualinthe industry.Perhapsnotsurprising,consideringour wildoutdoorplacesjustbeggingtobeexplored, ScotlandisalsohometocompaniessuchasWL Gore–creatoroftheclimber’sbestfriend GORE-TEX®–andanexcitingnewbrandof cyclingperformancegearforwomen,Findra, madeanddesignedonhometurf. INTRICAT E 18-Carat Gold Nokia Oro Mobile Phone wrapped in Bridge Of Weir Leather. 32 33 H illtrekOutdoorClothing,based,naturally, inRoyalDeeside,hasjustproduceditsfirst rangeofjacketswithaPictishtheme,made fromVentilecotton,ahighlybreathable technicalfabricthatwasdevelopedbeforethe SecondWorldWar.TheTalorcjacket–named aftertheearlyPictishkingsaidtooriginate fromthenorth-eastofScotland–featuresa Pictishgoosesymboltoconveytheproperties oftoughnessandprotectionthejacket possesses. Holland&Sherry’slatestdevelopmentisalso inspiredbythebeautyofnature.Carefully crushingthemostpureofblackpearls,the tinyparticlesarethenembeddedbetweenthe fibresofultrafinemerinowool,enhancingthe beautyanddrapeofthefabricandcreatingan almostluminousglow. Theindustrycontinuestopushboundaries withtechnique,andsharethelatest developmentswitheachother.MAKLabin Glasgowoffersdigitalprototypingandprinting expertisefortheindustry,alongwithtraining ifneeded.Withanoverallaimtoreducethe capitalcostissuesfordesignersandmakers, thestudiooffersarangeoftoolsincluding3D printing. Whenyouneedtopackthatprecioussuit awayforanimportantmeetinginGeneva,you canthankthebusinessgodsforLAT_56°’s revolutionarynewRedEyegarmentbag.The compactcarry-onismadewiththefirm’s patentedSuitPackingSystem,aproven, lab-testedprocessthatwillgetyoutoyour destinationunflusteredandcreasefree. 34 The Pictish Inspired Talorc Jacket by Hilltrek. Notforgettingtheinnovativeapproachto sustainabilityandethicalmanufacture. LULUZULUhasthisattheheartofitsbrand, ensuringpackagingforitscollectionof kidswearisdualpurposeandnotonetothrow away.Allenomiscontinuestosuccessfully combinestyle,sustainabilityandethics usinghigh-performancepracticalmaterials inthecreationofafashionlabel. Andasbrandslooktoinnovateoutsidethe realmsoftechnology,anobviousrouteis oneofcollaboration,combiningskillsto createsomethingnewandunique.TheToshie MackintoshCollectionisdesignedbyagroup ofGlasgowSchoolofArtGraduates,allnow workingasdesigners.Influencedbythework ofCharlesRennieMackintoshduringtheir studiestheydecidedtodesignsignature piecesevocativeofMackintosh. Artandfashionisaconcurringthemein innovation.RuthMorrisatRoobedohas beenworkingwithFife-basedillustratorand textileartistClaireHeminsleyofIncahoots toproduceanewcollectionofskirts,scarves andties,andwithflowerpainterKirstyLorenz oncushionsandpursesinspiredbyher Hebrideanmachair.Theentirecollectionis handmadeinPitlochry. Companiescontinuetoworktogetherto furtherexceltheirofferings.Camerontaylor* makesallitsmachineknitwearwithScott& Charters,athirdgeneration,family-runfactory inHawick.Itshandknittedstylesaremadein GalashielsbyEribéKnitwear,expertsinFair Isle.AnditscashmereisspuninKinrossby Todd&Duncan,acompanywith140yearsof experience.Itsmostrecentcollaborationis withEdinburgh-basedMackenzieLeatherto createarangeofbeautifullymadeaccessories usingthefinestItaliansaddleleather. AndWeAreRushworth,workingwithRoam, isproducingsuper-softmerinowooland cashmereblanketsinspiredbyVictoria Rushworth’sson’sfingerpaintsandofflowers shepressedinthesouthofFrance. CollaborationswithtalentedScottishjewellers havealsobeenmetwithcriticalacclaim. MillinerWilliamChambersanddesigner RebeccaTorreshavebothcreatedcollections withGeorgiaWiseman. Thisisnotjustanapproachusedincollections either,asdemonstratedbycouturierSandra MurrayMBE,andtextilesdesignerMorag MacPherson.Theduohavefusedtheirunique stylestocreateastunningsilkpatchwork kimono,exclusivelyfortheSculptureObjects FunctionalArt+DesignFair(SOFA). Fabric from the new Black Pearl Collection made from 100% Merino Wool with Crushed Black Pearls incorporated into the Cloth by Holland & Sherry. The Work Of Art Kimono, a collaborative creation by Sandra Murray MBE and Morag MacPherson. Red-Eye Overnight Garment Bag by LAT_56°. Such levels of innovation are not unusual in the industry 35 THE INTERIORS ILLUSTRATOR ONES TO WATCH Shining a spotlight on some of our rising stars. Old and new, each are stamping their mark on the marketplace, showing Scotland’s talent continues to flourish and remain at the forefront of fashion and textiles. Blue Boats Print. HATTI PATTISSON Hattihasseamlesslytransferredhertalentas anartistintocreatinganexcitingnewtextiles brand.Beginninghercareerattheageof15, sellingherexpressiveemotivepiecesatThe PittenweemArtsFestivalinTheEastNeukof Fifewhereshegrewup,shehasnowamassed atrulyinternationalclientele. Usingherreflectionsofplacesandmemories closetoherheart,Hattihopestobringher wonderfulvisionoftheworldtomoreclients througharangeoffabrics,cushions,and lampshadeswhichsitalongsideherart. 36 Shehasalreadyworkedwithseveralhighendclients,includingtheworld-renowned MichelinstarredrestaurantTheThree ChimneysontheIsleofSkye,whichfeatures herrangeinalloftheirrooms. Workingonbothprivateandcommercial commissions,Hattiiscontinuingtodevelop herrange,producingoriginalart,prints,linen andvelvetfabric,cushions,lampshadesand furniture. www.hattipattisson.com 37 Prize Poodle Silk Scarf, from the I Wish It Would Never End Collection. KAREN MABON RHODESIAN OF EDINBURGH Acollectionofsilkscarvesandjewellerywhichpromisesthe unexpected,Karen’stalentistheabilitytoweavewhimsical andsurprisingnarrativesthroughherwork.Shecombines herexpertiseasanartistanddesignerwithherpassionfor materialsandaccessoriesblurringtheboundariesbetween artandfashion.Creatinguniqueyetverywearablepieces, herworkisaccessible,individualandfun. Beautiful,creativelydesignedhandmadeleatherproducts frommotheranddaughterduo,KatrinaandCharlotte. Foundedin2013,thefamilywantedtocreateunique itemsmadeintheUKtosupportBritishmanufacturing andtoinvolvecharityasanintegralpartoftheprocess. HenceRhodesianofEdinburghwasborn. TheircustomisableLeatherFatchelsareavailableinan arrayofcolours,shapesandsizes.Withtheoptionto selectyourowncarryhandlesandfastenings,youcan alsohaveyourdreambagmonogrammedforatruly personalisedtouch.Afashionbloggers’favourite,these quirkybagshavefastbecomeamust-haveitemamong thefashioncommunity. KarengrewupinBlackIsleinScotlandandisinspiredby thepopularreferencessheimbibedwhenspendingmany rain-drenchedschoolholidaysimmersedinbooks,films andtelevision.Shelearnedhertradeundermanytop namesincludingMargaretHowellandFredButlerbefore launchingonherownandinstantlyreceivingrecognition ofhertalent.Karen’sdesignsareinstantlycaptivatingand willindulgeeverywardrobewithasenseofindividuality, imaginationandmostimportantly,atouchofmischief. The Jasmine in Imperial Red with Pop Fasteners. www.karenmabon.com Thecompany’suniquebrandnameisinspiredbythe family’sRhodesianpuppy. www.rhodesianofedinburgh.com THE ACCESSORIES ANGELS KIRSTY STEWART LYNSEY HUTCHINSON ThisyoungScottishjewellerydesignerandmakeruses traditionalcraftsmanshipcombinedwithcontemporary designtoproducebeautifullyhand-craftedjewellery.A graduatefromEdinburghCollegeofArt,Kirsty’scollection isinformedbybirds–inparticulartheirflightand feathers.Insomepiecesshecreatesscenesandscenarios offlight,othersarefocusedonthedetails,patternsand texturesoffeathers. Drawinginfluencesfromarchitecture,mechanicaland technologicalobjects,Lynseycreatedthiscontemporary collectionofaccessorygarments.Herexperimentation ofapplyingtraditionaltechniquesandcraftssuchas macraméandknitting,butwithacontemporarytwist usingdifferentmaterialsandstructuralconstructs, ledhertoproducepieceswhichhavescaleinthree dimensionalforms. Shecreatesherworkusingtraditionaltechniquessuchas forgingtomanipulatethemetalandachievethedesired texturesandpatternsforthepieces.Shecombines preciousmetalswithbothpreciousandsemi-precious stonestoincorporatecolourintoherwork. Allhandmade,Lynseybelievesthereisarealbeauty expressedwithinmechanicalobjectsthroughthe functional,repetitiveanddetailedelementsandthisis whatshewantstoexploreandbuilduponinherwork. Shecapturestheseelementstoproducepracticaland detailedpiecesinbothsilkrattailcordandacotton blendyarn,thatexpressasenseofbeauty,creatinga ‘functionalelegance’. Kirsty’screationsareuniquelydesignedandahandmade jewellerycollectionwhichhascaptivatedmanyadmirers. Sheoffersapersonalserviceforbespokecommissions andalsorepairsmuchlovedjewellery. Flying Away Topaz Necklace, Chunky Stack and Skinny Stack Rings, Midi Rings and Topaz Ring from the 2014 Collection. www.facebook.com/knottednicely Navy Knotted Shoulder and Neck Piece made from Cotton Yarn and Silk Rattail Cord, from the Engineered Elegance Collection. Photographer: Nadia Gabriella. www.kirstystewartjewellery.com 38 39 Cropped Ruby Top with White Binding, and Cream Leatherette Skirt with Hand-dyed Panels, from the Florabundance Collection. Photographer: Natalie Baxter. NICCI.N CATS BROTHERS Fashionlabelnicci.ncreatesstylishandedgy womenswearfocusingondifferentiation,usingvaried printingtechniquessuchashand-paintinganddigital print.Thelatestcollectionentitled‘Florabundance’is inspiredbythefloraltrendwheresilhouettesareruffled andflaredmixedwithfabricmanipulationandhanddyetechniques.Illustratedfloraldrawingsemphasise thethemeandaremixedwithacolourpaletteoflilac, navy,creamandwinewhichmakethecollectionunique andoriginal. CatsBrothersisaluxuryknitwearlabelfoundedbyAnna WilkinsonandLindsayMcKean.LaunchedinNovember 2012,Lindsayhassincegoneontotakecreativecontrol ofthelabelwithongoingsuccess. Thecollectionconsistsoffunkypiecessuchas leatherettecroppedleggings,navysnakeprintmidilengthdressesandhand-dyedpencilskirtswhichare alldesignedandmadeinScotland.Thedesignerbehind thebrand,NicolaAlexandraGardner,wantstoinspire womentodesiresomething‘abitdifferent’whenthey wearapieceofnicci.n. Inspiredbychildhoodjokes,gamesanddressingup, CatsBrothers’debutcollection,CRAZYHOMIES,wasborn fromaloveofSnoopDoggandLatinostreetculture. ThecollectionreferencedtheMexicanDayoftheDead iconography,coloursandmotifsandpaidtributeto deceasedrapartists,transformingtheirimageswith diademsofcolourfulembroideryandcrochetalongside intricatelyconstructedknittedgarments. From left to right: Tupac T-Shirt and Angora WV Sweater from the CRAZY HOMIES Collection. CatsBrothersiscommittedtomakinghighquality garmentsandknitwearthatfeelasfuntowearasthey weretomake. www.catsbrothers.com www.niccin.com THE FUTURE FASHIONISTAS FLINT JAMES MCDONALD COLLEEN LEITCH CurrentlystudyingattheGlasgowSchoolofArt,Flint JamesMcDonaldisayoungScottishdesignerwithhuge aspirationstorockthefashionworld. WinnerofFashionGraduateoftheYear2014atthe ScottishFashionAwards,ColleenLeitchisaforcetobe reckonedwith. InspiredbythelikesofAlexanderMcQueen,Commes desGarcons,DutchdesignerIrisvanHerpen,andthe edgyworkofCentralStMartinsgraduates,the17yearoldfromDunoonhasalreadycaughttheattentionof thetextilesindustrywithhisdramatichighschoolart pieces.Dynamicandeye-catchingtheywouldnotlook outofplaceinalookbookfromanestablisheddesign house. ShestudiedattheEdinburghCollegeofArtachieving aBAinFashionandiscurrentlystudyingforanMAin WomenswearFashionatLondon’sRoyalCollegeofArt. Portrayingartonthebodyisathemeevidentacross Flint’screations.Onesecondaryschoolartproject focusedonmotifsofbirdsandbonesandfeatureda beautifulblack-featheredcouturegowndecoratedwith sliversofmetal.Continuingwithathemeofwarand peaceduringhisschooleducation,hecreatedalongsleevedgownmadeentirelyofwhitegoosefeathersthat opensatthefronttoshowcasearedsilkliningcovered withblackskulls. 40 High-collar Bonded PVC and Sequinned Top from the Gradiant AW2015 Collection. Photographer: Debbie Bowie. Hergraduatecollection,GradiantAW2015,isinspiredby religiousinfluencesandfocusesonpurityandclarity– usinglighting,shapeandtexturetocreateanevocative andaspirationalportfolio. Colleenhasexperimentedwithtextiles,manipulating non-traditionalfabricsandfibresnotgenerally associatedwithgarmentproductiontocreateher strikingpieces. The Final Piece of Flint James Mcdonald’s Advanced Higher Folio Inspired by Architecture and Stained-glass Windows, made using Boning, Silk Organza and a Marbled Print Fabric. DrawinginspirationfromdesignerssuchasBottega Veneta,thegarments’silhouettesareinspiredby modernandminimalistcuttingtechniques. cargocollective.com/colleenleitch/about-colleen-leitch 41 THE KIDS’ COUTURE THE TALENTED TAILOR Brown and Pink Three Piece Suit featuring One-button Handmade Peaked Lapel Tweed Jacket, Sloping Side Pocket with Welted Breast Pocket and Long Lining Bag, Double Breasted Six-button Waistcoat with Watch Chain Holder and Slim Fit Trousers. From left to right: A Selection of Children’s Hatmasks in Urban Grey, Mummy Putty and Fox Original by LULUZULU in collaboration with Jo Storie. LULUZULU Thisdesignlabelspecialisesingenderfree accessoriesforchildrenandthehome.A championofmischievousimagination andgood-naturedadventure,theproducts arestylishbutalsoconscientiously manufacturedusingresponsiblematerials. Morethanafashionablelabel,the brandgoestogreatlengthstoensureits packagingisreusableandnotwasteful, allowingittotakeonasecondlife. ANDREW BROOKES TAILORING Therangeincludesgenderfreebabytights; luxuryhatmasks,whicharedesignedand hand-knittedusingthefinestMerinowool incollaborationwithScottishknitwear designerJoStorie;andthePlimsockTM–a celebrationofthesimpleplimsoleitis aperfectsockforindoorplay,featuring ‘non-slipgrippersforsuperchargednippers’. Thesearedesignsthatwillengagekids,and appealtoconscientiousparents,andthe childwithinthem! www.luluzulu.com 42 Growingupsurroundedbycolour,shape andtexturesinwhatAndrewdescribesas ‘theAladdin’scaveofmen’sfashion’inhis father’stailoringandoutfittingbusiness, thisnewbespoketailoringlabelwasan inevitablestepforthedesigner.Alreadythe ownerofsuccessfulHighlandfashionand formalwearbrandKiltpin,AndrewBrookes Tailoringisdestinedtofollowthesame success. Andrewhasalwayspushedthedesign boundaries,lookingforthenextwaytodevelop fashionformenandbringouttheverybest inmen’stailoring.Apassionatedesigner,he iscommittednotjusttothedesignbuttoa designthattrulysuitsthepersonwearing it–thissetshimapartfrommany.Focused ondevelopingcountrywearwithatwist,he provideseachcustomerwithadviceonfabric selectionandhighqualitytailoringtocreate thelooktheydesire. www.andrewbrookestailoring.com 43 A Crave +44(0)1896755353,www.aeroleatherclothing.com, [email protected],@aeroleathers Culzean Textile Solutions find us Aero Leather Clothing Alexander Leathers +44(0)175021119,www.alexanderleathers.com, [email protected],@ALeatherCo Alexanders of Scotland +44(0)1771622422,www.alexandersofscotland.com, [email protected] Allenomis +44(0)7906082828,www.allenomis.com, [email protected],@allenomis Andrew Brookes +44(0)7515285604,www.andrewbrookestailoring.com, [email protected],@scottishtailor Araminta Campbell +44(0)7789816896,www.aramintacampbell.co.uk, [email protected],@AramintaCampbel Arianna Mele +44(0)7952264180,www.ariannamele.com, [email protected],@arimele B Barrie +44(0)1450365500,www.barrie.com,[email protected] Begg & Co +44(0)1292267615,www.beggandcompany.com, [email protected],@beggandcompany Bluebellgray +44(0)1412210724,www.bluebellgray.com, [email protected],@bluebellgray Bonar Yarns & Fabrics +44(0)1382346106,www.bonaryarns.eu, [email protected],@Bonar_Yarns Breanish Tweed +44(0)1851810022,www.breanishtweed.co.uk, [email protected],@breanishtweed Buchanan Bespoke +44(0)1414401999,www.buchananbespoke.com, [email protected] Bute Fabrics +44(0)1700503734,www.butefabrics.com,sales@ butefabrics.com,@ButeFabricsLtd +44(0)1738609000,www.macnaughton-group.com, [email protected] +44(0)7979974371,www.danafinnigan.com, [email protected],@Dana_Finnigan www.incahoots.org.uk,@incahootsclaire Dana Finnigan D.C. Dalgliesh +44(0)175020781,www.dcdalgliesh.co.uk, [email protected] Dunmore Scotland +44(0)7517423800,catherinemacgruer.com, [email protected] Cats Brothers www.catsbrothers.com,[email protected], @CatsBrothers Colleen Leitch +44(0)7528385130,cargocollective.com/colleenleitch/ about-colleen-leitch,[email protected], @ColleenLeitch Cora Studio +44(0)7834178723,www.corastudio.co.uk, [email protected],@CoraStudio Mairi McDonald Iona Crawford +44(0)1413328579www.ionacrawford.com, [email protected],@ionacrawfordart J +44(0)7969122986,www.mairimcdonald.com, [email protected],@Mairi_McDonald Make Works makeworks.co.uk,[email protected], @thisismakeworks MAKlab DuPont Teijin Films Jane Davidson +44(0)1307819488,mandarinashoes.co.uk, [email protected],@MandarinaShoes E JC Rennie & Co. Ltd +44(0)1316566543,www.moodymonday.co.uk, [email protected],@MoMoPrints Jo Storie Morag Macpherson Johnstons of Elgin Muirhead Judy R Clark Murray Hogarth K MYB Textiles +44(0)1312259244,www.karenmabon.com, [email protected],@karenmabon N www.dupontteijinfilms.com,@DuPont_News Edition Scotland +44(0)7841411715,www.editionscotland.com, [email protected],@EditionScotland Eribé Knitwear Ltd +44(0)1896755540,www.eribe.co.uk, [email protected],@eribeknitwear Euan McWhirter +44(0)7941619682,www.euanmcwhirter.com, [email protected],@euanjewel F Fabhatrix +44(0)1312259222,www.fabhatrix.com, [email protected],@Fabhatrix Findra +44(0)7455955567,www.findra.co.uk, [email protected],@LiveLoveFindra Fiona Heather +44(0)7966231664,www.fionaheather.co.uk, [email protected],@TheFionaHeather Fiona Somerville +44(0)7769175365,www.fionasomerville.co.uk, [email protected],@FifiSomerville Flint James McDonald G +44(0)1738582267,www.gibsonandbirkbeck.co.uk, [email protected],@GIBSONBIRKBECK Glenmuir +44(0)1555662244,www.glenmuir.com, [email protected],@Glenmuir1891 H Catherine MacGruer Incahoots +44(0)1413322552,maklab.co.uk,@theMAKLab Cari & Co +44(0)7799885417,www.catherineaitken.com, [email protected],@catherinaitken Macnaughton Holdings Ltd J&D Wilkie Ltd GORE-TEX® Catherine Aitken Impractical Clothes +44(0)1968660078,www.dunmorescotland.com, [email protected],@dunmorescotland +44(0)1315574662,www.cameron-taylor.com, [email protected],@_Cameron_taylor +44(0)1224861877,www.cariandco.com, [email protected],@victoriancari Mackenzie Leather +44(0)1312288947,www.impracticalclothes.com, [email protected] Gibson & Birkbeck Cameron taylor* M D +44(0)7947507282,www.cahoonas.co.uk, [email protected],@cahoonasbritain +44(0)1899309212,www.calzeat.com, [email protected],@calzeat +44(0)1721720101,www.hollandandsherry.com, [email protected] www.mackenzieleather.co.uk, [email protected] +44(0)7771766532,[email protected] Calzeat Holland & Sherry I +44(0)1560480040,www.culzean.com, [email protected] C Cahoonas 44 +44(0)2031119159,www.wecraveit.com, [email protected],@craveedit +44(0)800833357,www.gore-tex.co.uk,@GORETEXeu Harris Tweed Hebrides +44(0)1851700046,www.harristweedhebrides.com, [email protected] Hatti Pattisson +44(0)7525774726,www.hattipattisson.com, [email protected],@HATTI_PATTISSON Hawick Knitwear +44(0)1450363100,www.hawickknitwear.com, [email protected],@HawickKnitwear Helen Ruth Scarves +44(0)7816770246,www.helenruth.co.uk, [email protected],@HelenRuthScarf Hilary Grant +44(0)1856811404,www.hilarygrant.co.uk, [email protected],@hilary_grant Hilltrek +44(0)1339886062,www.hilltrek.co.uk, [email protected],@hilltrek +44(0)1575572502,jdwilkie.co.uk,[email protected] +44(0)1312253280,www.janedavidson.co.uk, [email protected],@JaneDavidsonUK +44(0)1771622422,www.jcrennie.com,[email protected] +44(0)1890761374,www.jostorie.com, [email protected],@JoStorieKnits +44(0)1343554040,www.johnstonscashmere.com, [email protected],@Johnstons_Elgin +44(0)7933658642,www.judyrclark.com, [email protected],@judyrclark Karen Mabon Mandarina Shoes Ltd Moody Monday +44(0)7734421029,www.moragmacpherson.com, [email protected],@MMTextiles +44(0)1415506400,www.muirhead.co.uk, [email protected],@MuirheadLeather +44(0)175023920,www.murray-hogarth.co.uk, [email protected] +44(0)1560321210,www.mybtextiles.com, [email protected],@mybtextiles1900 Kiltpin Natasha Marshall Kinloch Anderson nicci.n Kirsteen Stewart Niche Optical Tailor Kirsty Elizabeth Nikki McWilliams +44(0)7901526799,www.kirstyelizabethmaclennan.com, [email protected],@Kirsty_MacL +44(0)7759060923,www.nikkimcwilliams.com, [email protected],@nikkimcwilliams Kirsty Stewart O +44(0)1324624588,www.kiltpin.com, [email protected],@Kiltpin +44(0)1315551390,www.kinlochanderson.com, [email protected],@kinlochanderson +44(0)1856875008,www.kirsteenstewart.co.uk, [email protected],@KirsteenStewart +44(0)7411163580,kirstystewartjewellery.com, [email protected],@KStewJewellery Knockando Woolmill +44(0)1340810345,www.knockandowoolmill.co.uk, [email protected],@knockandomill Kynoch1788 +44(0)1387380311,www.kynoch1788.com, [email protected] L LAT_56° +44(0)8712007756,www.lat56.com, [email protected],@LAT56luggage Laura Spring +44(0)7855056851,www.lauraspring.co.uk, [email protected],@LauraSpring1 Lucy Donnell +44(0)1419467292,www.lucydonnell.co.uk, [email protected],@lucydonnell LULUZULU +44(0)1890771298,www.luluzulu.com, [email protected],@LOVELULUZULU Lynsey Hutchison +44(0)1413390120,www.natashamarshall.com, [email protected],@NM_Interiors +44(0)7531764579,www.niccin.com, [email protected],@nicci_n_ +44(0)1415532077,www.nicheopticaltailor.co.uk, [email protected],@nicheoptical Obscure Couture +44(0)141237226,www.obscure-couture.com, [email protected],@obscurecouture P Paper_Houses +44(0)7749943675,www.mhairimcdowall.co.uk, [email protected],@Paper_Houses Pea Cooper Millinery +44(0)7845755637,www.peacoopermillinery.com, [email protected],@PeaCooperHats Pringle of Scotland +44(0)1450360200,bulletin.pringlescotland.com, [email protected],@PringleScotland Protected Species www.protected-species.com,[email protected], @SpeciesPro Q Queene and Belle +44(0)1450860780,www.queeneandbelle.com, [email protected],@queeneandbelle +44(0)7856578181,www.facebook.com/knottednicely, [email protected] 45 find us R Shetland Lace Shawls +44(0)7944197171,www.rebeccatorres.co.uk, [email protected],@rebeccatorres T Rebecca Torres +44(0)1950460790,www.shetlandlaceshawls.co.uk, [email protected] Replin Fabrics 21st Century Kilts Rhodesian of Edinburgh Taisir Gibreel ROAM Tartan Spirit By Joyce Young Roobedo ten30 +44(0)1721724311,www.replin-fabrics.co.uk, [email protected] www.rhodesianofedinburgh.com, [email protected],@MyRhodesian +44(0)7803986792,www.studioroam.co.uk, [email protected],@lachie_roam +44(0)1796470544,www.roobedo.com, [email protected],@Roobedo Rosie Sugden +44(0)1835870449www.rosiesugden.com, [email protected],@RosieSugden S Sarkar Defence +44(0)1414046560,www.sarkardefence.com, [email protected],@SarkarDefenceUK Sally-Ann Provan +44(0)7931773410,www.sallyannprovan.co.uk, [email protected],@SallyAnnProvan Sandra Murray MBE +44(0)1463220091,www.sandramurray.co.uk, [email protected],@SandraMurrayMBE Saunt & Sinner [email protected],@SauntAndSinner +44(0)7774757222,www.21stcenturykilts.com, [email protected],@21STCENTURYKILT +44(0)7947949926,www.taisirgibreel.co.uk, [email protected],@TaisirGibreel +44(0)1419460660,www.tartanspirit.com, [email protected],@TartanSpiritUK +44(0)7920096553,www.ten30.co.uk,[email protected] The House of Edgar +44(0)1738604054,www.houseofedgar.com, [email protected] The Isle Mill +44(0)1738609090,www.islemill.com,[email protected] The Scottish Register of Tartans +44(0)1315351375,www.tartanregister.gov.uk, [email protected] Timorous Beasties +44(0)1413372622,www.timorousbeasties.com, [email protected],@TBeasties Todd & Duncan +44(0)1577863521,www.todd-duncan.co.uk, [email protected],@ToddAndDuncan Toshie Mackintosh +44(0)1412212142,www.toshie-mackintosh.com Scotland Re:Designed V Scott & Charters +44(0)1418125656,www.vascutek.com, [email protected],@Vascutek Scott & Fyfe Walker Slater Scottish Leather Group Wear Eponymous +44(0)1412432621,scotlandredesigned.com, [email protected],@ScotReDesigned +44(0)1450373221,www.scottcharters.com, [email protected],@SCCashmere +44(0)1382554000,www.scott-fyfe.com, [email protected],@ScottandFyfe Vascutek W +44(0)1312202636,www.walkerslater.com, [email protected] Scottish Tartans Authority +44(0)1413875102,www.weareponymous.com, [email protected],@weareponymous Scotweb +44(0)1289332238,www.wearerushworth.com, [email protected] +44(0)1505691730,www.scottishleathergroup.com +44(0)1764655444,www.tartansauthority.com, [email protected] +44(0)08006348640,www.scotweb.co.uk, @scotwebtartans Zafer loses his much-loved Border Lambswool Scarf Lagos Funfair by Calzeat to rescue dog Zara (£1 of which is donated to the Scottish SPCA). www.calzeat.com We Are Rushworth William Chambers +44(0)7815096367,www.williamchambers.co.uk, [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS: SincerethanksfortheinvaluableassistanceinourmainphotoshoottophotographerAnna Isola Crollaand assistantSolen;theteamatGenuine–Cathy Owen, Chris Hunt,andinparticularClaire Clark;hair-stylistGary Lees,make-upartistAna Cruzalegui;Model TeamforprovidingourmodelsJamie Walker,Linda Youngand VictoriaMiddleton;Craveforlendingsomeexquisitebespokepiecesandtheircreativeinput;andourever-eager pair-of-many-handsrunnerBecky Thomson. ThanksalsotophotographerDavid Andersonlendinghisverytalentedeyetoproduceourproductshotsused throughoutthemagazine;theindividualScottishtextilescompaniesforphotographyusage;andtoPaul Bockof PaulBockPhotographyforuseofhisstudioandprops. AndaHUGEthankyoutoHowie Nicholsby from21st Century KiltsandValerie Shepard theirin-house KiltMakerfordesigningandmakingwhatcanonlybedescribedasashow-stopping yet fully-functional, Timorous Beasties Wallpaper Kilt,featuredonourbackcoverandDana Finniganforlettinguscraftadress fromherlatestwallpaperrange. LastbutbynomeansleastheartfeltthankstotheWeberShandwickteam–Sarah Ward,Niall Young,Vicki Lowman,Heather Ross,Fiona Duncan,Lynne HeraghtyandPaula Mc Nulty–producinganotherquality .Longmayourlabouroflovecontinueaswejustlivetosharethe magicwitheveryreader. www.textilescotland.com@TextilesScot #modhmag (m ud)n.1.mode,fashion,style2.manners,goodbreeding3.respect,honour4.goodmorals 46 47 Wall-to-wall Scottish style… Jamie wears a Kilt made from Timorous Beasties Urban Decay Wallpaper, designed and made by Valerie Shepard, in-house Kilt Maker at 21st Century Kilts along with a cashmere 8-ply Aran Cable Roll Collar Jumper by Johnstons of Elgin with boots and socks supplied by 21st Century Kilts. Victoria wears a Dress made from Dana Finnigan Crystal Winter Wallpaper, with Upcycled Vinyl Record Head Piece by Fabhatrix and Blue Harris Tweed Long Boots by Manderina. Hair by Gary Lees; Make up by Ana Cruzalegui; Styling by Genuine & Weber Shandwick. Photographer: Anna Isola Crolla.
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