saltwater aquarium

SALTWATER
AQUARIUM
CARE GUIDE
Includes simple
S TEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS
on how to set up a new aquarium and keep it looking great
fluvalaquatics.com
©2013 Fluval is a registered trademark of Rolf C. Hagen Inc.
Introduction
Contents
INTRODUCTION 3
CHAPTER 1 BASIC EQUIPMENT TO
GET STARTED4
CHAPTER 2 AQUARIUM LOCATION6
CHAPTER 3 ROCK AND SAND7
CHAPTER 4 SALT AND SUPPLEMENTS8
CHAPTER 5 THE NITROGEN CYCLE10
CHAPTER 6 ADDING FISH AND CORALS13
CHAPTER 7 FISH, INVERTEBRATE AND
CORAL SPECIES
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CHAPTER 8 IDENTIFYING AND PREVENTING
FISH DISEASE 20
Welcome to the wonderful world of saltwater
aquariums. My name is Mark Callahan (a.k.a. Mr.
Saltwater Tank), and I’ve been in love with fishkeeping ever since my father brought home my first
tank when I was 10 years old. Years later, I remain
actively involved in the industry, running a popular
website (mrsaltwatertank.com), hosting my own
YouTube channel (Mr. Saltwater Tank TV) and traveling
all over the world to set up and consult on saltwater
tank projects of all shapes and sizes.
Most recently, I’ve joined forces with Fluval to create
this practical saltwater aquarium guide, which is
designed in a simple-to-follow format with useful
How-To tips, pitfalls to avoid, stocking suggestions,
reference photos, web links and more.
While the guide incorporates expert knowledge and
explains everything you need to run a successful
saltwater aquarium, my best piece of advice is to
remain patient throughout the process and avoid
getting lost in the endless pool of Internet opinions.
For now, simply take a deep breath, read on and enjoy!
CHAPTER 9 WHAT COMES NEXT?22
Mark Callahan
Mr. Saltwater Tank
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CHAPTER1
CHAPTER1
BASIC EQUIPMENT TO GET STARTED
BASIC EQUIPMENT TO GET STARTED
The basic equipment to
get started
Setting up a marine aquarium requires an understanding of what livestock you
plan to keep, and providing the right the environmental conditions to ensure
their proper long term care. There is nothing that beats the raw beauty of a
thriving SPS (short polyp stony corals) reef, for example, but it can also be
among the most expensive and time-consuming marine aquariums to operate.
You can still enjoy reef keeping in a smaller aquarium (5 to 20 gallon range),
and with the right livestock choices, your operating costs and maintenance
time will be greatly reduced. In short, have a clear picture of what your budget
will allow, where you plan to keep the tank and the amount of time you can
realistically commit to maintaining it.
The following is a checklist of the most essential equipment required to keep
your marine livestock, water and tank looking their best.
AQUARIUM
FILTER
Aquariums come in many shapes, sizes and materials. Glass is preferable,
due to its ability to resist scratches. Despite what you may think, larger
aquariums are not only typically easier to maintain, but also provide a more
stable environment. We recommended going as large as your budget will
allow.
Filtration helps to remove harmful elements, trap debris, oxygenate
the water and provide ideal surfaces for beneficial bacteria to cultivate
upon. A combination of mechanical, biological and chemical filtration are
recommended to help achieve optimal water conditions.
AQUARIUM STAND
Water is extremely heavy – roughly 8.3 lbs per gallon. This means that the
water in a 10 gallon tank, for example, will weigh close to 83 lbs, and this
doesn’t even factor in rocks and sand. A strong base is therefore vital as any
uneven support across the base of the tank can prove disastrous. Regular
furniture stands, especially the self-assembly kind, are NOT suitable for use
with most aquariums. Using them will also void your warranty. Fortunately,
Fluval carries an extensive line of stands designed specifically to support its
aquariums.
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BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION:
Biological filtration relies on bacteria to process and filter the water in your
tank.
MECHANICAL FILTRATION: Mechanical filtration relies on a type of medium
(usually a sponge or foam) to physically filter out particles suspended in the
water (i.e. fish excrement, sludge, uneaten food, dust).
CHEMICAL FILTRATION:
Chemical filtration removes pollutants such as chlorine, discoloration, tap
water impurities and other dissolved waste materials through chemical
reactions.
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CHAPTER1
CHAPTER1
BASIC EQUIPMENT TO GET STARTED
BASIC EQUIPMENT TO GET STARTED
HEATER
All fish are cold-blooded, which means their bodies are the same temperature
as the water around them. Sudden changes in that temperature can cause
stress, disease and even death, therefore, a heater is necessary to ensure
the environment remains consistent and set to the ideal range they require. A
thermometer, or heater equipped with one built-in, will help you keep a close
eye at all times.
WATER TREATMENTS
AND TEST KITS
Ensure your water quality is optimally maintained by using Fluval water
treatments to remove and neutralize any chemicals in your tap water
which, although harmless to humans, can be deadly for fish. Fluval Water
Conditioner aka Aqua-Plus is specifically formulated to condition water as
soon as it is added to the tank, while Fluval Biological Enhancer aka Cycle
helps prepare the filter for your fish and maintains the aquarium’s natural
biological balance. Fluval Biological Cleaner aka Waste Control breaks
down organic waste to allow the filter to collect it more easily. As you set up
your tank and even once established, regular testing is required.
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OCK, SAND
R
AND DECORATION
It is advisable to buy rocks, ornaments and sand that have been specifically
designed for use in a marine aquarium. There is a vast selection to choose
from, which can make your aquarium truly unique by combining various
textures, shapes, colors and arrangements. This topic is covered in greater
detail further in the guide.
MARINE AQUARIUM LIGHTING
Understanding the needs of your livestock (specifically corals) will guide
your decision on the type of lighting you need. Hard corals that build reefs
in the ocean, for example, generally require high lighting levels of a specific
spectrum and color temperature. Many soft corals and LPS (large polyp stony
coral), on the other hand, require much less demanding light intensities.
Whatever environment you decide to keep, it is preferable to use light units
that are resistant to saltwater as it is very corrosive. Fluval offers several
waterproof marine-specific lighting solutions that will meet the needs
of any budding marine hobbyist. For further information, please visit
FluvalAquatics.com
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CHAPTER1
CHAPTER1
BASIC EQUIPMENT TO GET STARTED
BASIC EQUIPMENT TO GET STARTED
ACCESSORIES
CIRCULATION PUMPS
You will need to invest first and foremost in a Hydrometer, which is essential
for your aquarium inhabitants and provides specific gravity and salinity
readings in your saltwater (this is covered in further detail later on). Other
key accessories should include feeding devices for your coral (i.e. extra
long tweezers, a baster, etc.), a strong glass cleaning magnet, epoxy sticks
for affixing your corals, a light lens cleaning kit, a few important marine
supplements (i.e. alkalinity, calcium, strontium, trace elements) and a
complete water test kit.
Marine fish originate from water that has great force, therefore, strong water
movement is key. It not only provides for a more natural environment, but
also washes waste from corals, helps them propagate and more. Circulation
pumps are not expensive and usually very energy efficient.
PROTEIN SKIMMERS
SUMP PUMPS
Typically required for larger marine tanks, sump pumps are stronger pumps
with good head capacity (they can deliver water vertically against gravity) that
are exposed to very harsh conditions. Please note that only marine-certified
pumps should be used, such as the Fluval SP series.
By mixing air and saltwater through the use of a skimmer (there are many
different types), you effectively strip organic matter out of the aquarium,
mostly before it can break down further and plague your tank with ammonia
and nitrite issues. The odor from a properly adjusted protein skimmer when
removing and cleaning its “collection cup” demonstrates just how toxic the
elements this indispensible piece of hardware removes.
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CHAPTER2
CHAPTER2
AQUARIUM LOCATION
AQUARIUM LOCATION
Where to
Place Your
Aquarium
Deciding where to place your tank
can be a big decision and once it
is set up, moving it isn’t something
that is easy to do. Since your tank
will literally become a fixture in your
house, here are some tips to help
you decide where to place it.
Tip
Give yourself easy access to your
aquarium - leave about 2-3” behind
the aquarium to run the wires, and
make sure you have unrestricted
access to the canopy
AVOID DIRECT SUNLIGHT
LIVING AREAS
While you might think that having sun shining into your
tank is a good idea, natural sunlight can cause undesired
algae growth, or heat up your tank beyond ideal range.
Place your tank far enough from your TV. It isn’t much
fun to settle down to try to watch a movie and have a
brightly lit fish tank distracting your view or casting glare
across your screen. Also, every aquarium makes some
amount of noise. You’ll likely hear “white noise” (i.e.
pumps running, water gently flowing, etc.), therefore,
if the room has to be 100% silent, consider placing the
tank elsewhere.
If you have no other option but to place your aquarium
in sunlight, ensure you close blinds or curtains to reduce
exposure as much as possible.
POWER ACCESS
Remember 1 gallon of water weighs just over 8 lbs.
Always use the correct Fluval stand.
Use of any other kind of furniture or base will void your
warranty.
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Make sure you have power outlets nearby.
Your aquarium requires numerous pieces of electrical
equipment to run. Choose a place where there are at
least 2 sets of power outlets nearby. You may also need
a power bar for extra sockets.
AIR VENTS
When desired, air vents can help cool your tank in the
summer and heat it in the winter. Excess heat, however,
is not advisable, so ensure your vents are not blowing
air directly onto your tank. If your house has baseboard
heaters, giving yourself extra space between your tank
and the heater is ideal. Generally speaking, however,
you will want to position your aquarium where it is not
affected by any heating or cooling source.
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CHAPTER3
CHAPTER3
ROCK AND SAND
ROCK AND SAND
Rock
and Sand
Rock and sand serve several
purposes in a saltwater aquarium.
HOUSING
While saltwater tanks simply look better with sand inside, the sand bed is
home to all kinds of critters that perform useful tasks to help the aquatic
environment thrive. Rocks are also aesthetically pleasing and provide a
hiding place for fish to feel secure. Use several small pieces of rock, rather
than just one or two, to create several caves and crevices. Believe it or
not, the more places a fish has to hide, the less it actually will.
FILTRATION
Nitrifying bacteria lives in and on sand and rocks, taking fish waste and
processing it into a less toxic compound called nitrate. Without the surface
area provided by rock and sand, there will be minimal nitrifying bacteria in
your tank, which leads to fish loss, algae outbreaks, etc.
DECORATION
When constructing a rock formation inside your tank, build directly on the
bottom of the glass as this is ensure a more stable fit than placing on top
of sand. Ensure you leave enough breathing room between your structure
and glass on all sides to allow for a circulation pump to push water through.
Create some open caverns and channels throughout your structure to provide additional water flow space and avoid areas where organic waste can
accumulate.
Tip
FluvalAquatics.com and MrSaltWaterTank.
com/Fluval include several helpful
aquascaping videos.
Since your rock structure serves as a base for various coral, you will also
want to incorporate some flat areas where possible. Lastly, ensure that your
rock formation is not too close to the water surface as it will not be practical
for coral placement at a later time. Leave at least 3 - 4” between the top of
your structure and the surface.
Now that you understand why you need rock and sand for your tank, the
question is how much rock and sand do you need?
Tip
If the sand you choose is too fine, it will
likely get blown around by the water
movement inside the tank. Ideal sand size
has a diameter of 0.04-0.08” (1-2mm).
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For sand, you’ll need enough to make a bed 1-2” deep, which roughly
equates to about ½ to 1lb of sand per gallon. Saltwater aquarium-specific
sand is available at your local fish store and comes in 2 varieties: Dry and
Live. Live sand, containing natural organisms that more quickly establish a
safe environment, is always recommended. Regular sand (i.e. playground
sand) is never appropriate, nor is colored gravel used in freshwater tanks.
For rock, approximately 1 to 1.5 lbs of cured live rock (available from your
local fish store) per gallon is recommended. For example, you will need
about 5 to 7.5lbs of live rock for a 5 gallon aquarium, or 12-18lbs of cured
live rock for a 12 gallon aquarium. Aquacultured cured live rock is best
because it is environmentally friendly and does not harm precious coral
reefs in the wild.
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CHAPTER4
CHAPTER5
SALT AND SUPPLEMENTS
THE NITROGEN CYCLE
Salt
The Nitrogen Cycle
It is impossible to overestimate the
importance of using a quality marine
salt, which should mix to clear water
within 5 - 10 minutes. You can have
the best hardware available, but if
your marine salt is not providing
values within the ideal ranges
mentioned below (which can be
measured with basic aquarium test
kits), it will become a problem.
Understanding the biology and chemistry that makes a saltwater tank tick
is vitally important. Here are some key concepts to understand the Nitrogen
Cycle.
• p
H: 8.1 to 8.2. Be wary of high
alkalinity salts, which can bring pH
values to 8.5 or more and greatly
stress your corals.
• Alkalinity: 150 to 175 mg/L
• Calcium: Approximately 460 mg/L
• Strontium: 8-12 mg/L
• Magnesium: 1200 - 1300 mg/L
Supplements
The Nitrogen Cycle
At its simplest level, the nitrogen cycle involves taking toxic Ammonia and
processing it into less toxic Nitrates.
CREATING YOUR SALTWATER MIX
In a separate and clean container (i.e. 5 gallon bucket), add a
professional grade saltwater mix, such as Fluval Sea Pro Salt, to either
filtered drinking water or Reverse Osmosis water. Make sure to follow
the instructions on the package until the salt is fully dissolved. Keep in
mind the rock and sand in the tank will displace some of your saltwater
mix, so don’t be surprised if the amount of water you’ve prepared
doesn’t fit in the tank.
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STEP #2
STEP #3
A Hydrometer should be used to measure the salt level in your water. You
may elect to use tap water, however, be aware of potential unwanted
elements such as chlorine, chloramines, phosphate, silicates, etc.
Once the tank is filled with saltwater,
plug in your pump, filter and heater.
Leave the tank running for several hours
to allow the water to warm up. Once
the temperature in your aquarium has
reached between 77-79 Fahrenheit
(25-26 Celsius) and you get a reading of
1.025 on your hydrometer, you’re then
ready to cycle your tank.
When you feed your fish, their
bodies process the food and excrete
waste in the form of Ammonia (NH4)
(i.e. feces and urine). Additionally,
uneaten food breaks down and
creates Ammonia as well.
Ammonia is very toxic to your fish
and invertebrates, but is a feast to
nitrifying bacteria. Nitrifying bacteria
will convert the Ammonia (NH3/4)
into Nitrite (NO2), which is also toxic
to fish but necessary in the overall
process.
FLUVAL HYDROMETER
Fluval SEA offers a wide range of
saltwater-specific supplements
that must be added back into the
aquarium over time as corals,
coralline algae and other elements
will naturally absorb and deplete
them.
STEP #1
Why is the Nitrogen Cycle important and how
do I apply it?
When you first start your tank, it will have limited existing nitrifying bacteria to process
fish waste, therefore, ammonia and nitrite levels will raise rapidly. To prevent this
sudden buildup, you will need to “cycle” your tank. Cycling involves growing enough
nitrifying bacteria to quickly process the ammonia into nitrates. One of the quickest
ways to achieve this is by dosing your tank with Fluval Cycle or Biological Enhancer
(see next page).
Nitrites are then broken down into
Nitrates (NO3). While Nitrates aren’t
very toxic to the livestock in your
tank, if you let them build up over
time they can reach toxic levels.
That’s where regular water changes
come in. A water change involves
taking part of the water out of your
tank and replacing it with new
saltwater. You need only change
roughly 15-20% of your tank water,
not the whole thing. One water
change every two weeks is usually
ideal.
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CHAPTER5
CHAPTER5
THE NITROGEN CYCLE
THE NITROGEN CYCLE
How To Cycle Your Tank
Your tank should be up and running
for at least 24 hours. The water temp
should be between 77-79 Fahrenheit
(25-26 Celsius) and your specific
Hydrometer reading should be
1.023-1.025.
STEP # 1:
Realize it takes time
Cycling your tank can happen
quickly, but it can also take days
or at most, weeks. So take a deep
breath and don’t be in a rush to
put fish in the tank. One of the best
things you can do here is take it
slow.
STEP # 2:
Add Fluval Cycle or Fluval
Biological Enhancer
ammonia and nitrites to create a
safe and biologically well-balanced
aquarium for healthy fish to thrive.
It also establishes safe conditions
so that you can introduce fish to
your new aquarium once you have
completed the set up instructions
outlined in this guide.
Dosing Fluval Cycle or Biological
Enhancer for New Aquariums:
Follow the dosage instructions below
when you add your first fish to the
aquarium.
New Aquariums:
Day 1: 25ml per 10 gallons
Day 2: 10ml per 10 gallons
Day 3: 10ml per 10 gallons
When adding additional fish:
10ml per 10 gallons
Weekly Maintenance Dose:
5ml per 10 gallons
Fluval Cycle or Biological Enhancer
is a responsive biological aquarium
supplement that immediately
innoculates your aquarium water
with a powerful team of beneficial
nitrifying bacteria.
It goes to work fast, eliminating toxic
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STEP # 3:
Introducing Fish
Add new fish SLOWLY! We
recommend no more than 1 fish
every 1-2 weeks when your tank
is new (the first months of its life).
The reason is that you want your
tank’s biological filter to build up
enough beneficial bacteria, and that
takes time. If you add too many fish
too fast, you will have a build up of
ammonia and nitrite, which can kill
your fish.
Tip
Never add fish to a new aquarium without
treating the water first. Please visit
MrSaltwaterTank.com to view a video on how
to properly introduce fish into a tank.
STEP # 4:
Start Testing Your Water
While your tank is cycling, you are
going to want to test your ammonia,
nitrite and nitrate levels a couple of
times a week. Nutrafin provides a
full range of test kits for these and
several other parameters.
Using Fluval Cycle or Biological
Enhancer will result in a small rise
in ammonia levels, nitrite levels
followed by a gradual rise in nitrate
levels. Don’t panic, this is normal the
levels will stabilize once cycling is
complete.
What to Avoid When
Cycling Your Tank
Damselfish: Damsels are hardy fish, and are often recommended to
help cycle tanks since they can tolerate reduced water quality during this
process. Once cycling is complete, however, they can make poor tank
mates since they are also known to be territorial, often nipping at other
fish or even killing them.
Damselfish
Table Shrimp: The theory behind placing table shrimp (those for human
consumption) in your tank is that you are providing food that will break
down into ammonia, which will incite the cycle process. In reality, this
adds an unnecessary step as the shrimp must first rot, and then get
converted into ammonia, before your tank will cycle.
Using Fluval Cycle or Biological Enhancer, in combination with the fish
in your aquarium, will provide all the ammonia required to complete the
cycle process. No shrimp needed!
Tip
Never cycle your tank with fish UNLESS you apply Fluval Cycle or Biological Enhancer.
Forcing your fish to swim in a toxic pool of ammonia and nitrite can be lethal.
When do you know when
Cycling is complete?
The title is a bit misleading. Your tank is constantly converting ammonia
to nitrite to nitrate, you just don’t see it as you have enough bacteria to
quickly convert any ammonia or nitrite before the levels get high enough
to detect. As a guide, Cycling is achieved when the following levels are
reached:
Ammonia: 0 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: 5-10 ppm
Tip
If at any time you see the ammonia or nitrite levels
rise again, something is probably wrong. Potential
causes include dead, overstocked or overfed fish.
Table Shrimp
A Word
About
Nitrates
Nitrates are a bit of a moving target
as they are a less toxic compound to
fish than ammonia or nitrite, but you
still don’t want high levels of them in
your tank (above 20 ppm).
Many saltwater tank hobbyists
become concerned whenever their
nitrate levels aren’t at 0 ppm. A
little bit of nitrate here and there
(especially for fish only tanks) won’t
hurt anything.
Tip: The best way to control nitrate
levels is with regular water changes.
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CHAPTER6
CHAPTER6
ADDING FISH AND CORALS
ADDING FISH AND CORALS
Acclimating Your Fish
Acclimating your fish is an important yet often overlooked subject. Many fish that seemed
fine at the store have met unfortunate fates when brought home due to improper acclimation,
so please follow these steps carefully.
1. P lace the bag containing the fish
in your tank. Do NOT open the bag
yet. The bagged fish should float
in your tank for 15 minutes so that
the temperature of the water in
the bag matches the temperature
of the water in your tank.
2. A fter 15 minutes, take the bag
out of your tank, cut it open and
discard about 1/2 the water in the
bag. Make sure you don’t pour out
the fish!
3. Place the opened bag back in
your tank, then increase the bag’s
water volume 25% by using water
from the tank.
4. Wait 10 minutes and repeat step 3
so that the bag is now full again.
5. D
iscard 1/2 of the water in the
bag and repeat steps 3-4.
6. P our out as much water as
possible while keeping your fish
inside. This can help prevent
potential disease issues.
7. F inally, gently introduce your fish
into the tank.
Adding Fish and Corals
Once your tank is stable and cycled, it’s time to add fish and/or coral.
HOW TO PICK FISH FOR YOUR TANK
1. Know the characteristics of the
species you’re interested in (i.e.
feeding habits, compatibility with
other fish, etc.) and only select
those species that are intended
for beginners. Later in this guide,
you will find several recommended
options.
2. Observe the fish’s behavior at
the pet store. A healthy fish will
display normal behavior for its
breed. For example, Clownfish
and Chromis will be constantly
swimming, while Blennies will
largely perch and swim only some
of the time. If the fish seems like
it is acting strange (i.e. lying on
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its side, breathing hard, etc.), then
avoid it. As it is likely sick.
3. Ask to see the fish eat. Once you
have picked a fish, ask the clerk
at the store to feed it, even if they
advise that it has already been
fed. A healthy fish will nearly
always go after food
4. Remember that fish and corals
grow. Most store fish are
purchased as juveniles, and corals
sold in small fragments or “frags.”
Your aquarium may look sparse
at first, but this is preferable
since everything will grow in due
time. Remember that it’s all about
quality when it comes to keeping
livestock, not quantity.
5. S tart Slow. You might be tempted
to add several fish at once. Please
resist this urge and go slowly.
One fish is fine to start, then add
no more than 1 fish every 1-2
weeks. Remember, the biological
filter of nitrifying bacteria needs
to establish, and every time you
introduce a new fish you are
adding bioload (waste) to your
tank. The nitrifying bacteria needs
to multiply to process the waste
from the new fish, so adding too
many at once can cause your tank
to re-cycle, which is bad.
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CHAPTER6
CHAPTER6
ADDING FISH AND CORALS
ADDING FISH AND CORALS
How to Choose
and Place Coral
The goal when bringing coral home is not to stress them, while providing
sufficient water flow and light spectrum exposure for their specific needs.
Don’t be shy to ask your coral supplier (i.e. aquatic store, online retailer, etc.)
about these particular areas of interest as not all corals are created the same.
Feeding Your Fish
Fish should ideally be fed 2-3 times a day.
Don’t be concerned if your new fish doesn’t eat for a day
or two after you introduce it to your tank as travelling
from the retailer to a new home tank environment
can sometimes be stressful. Certainly do feed it, but
sparingly. Don’t be surprised if it takes a couple of days
to begin eating again.
Variety is key when feeding fish, so a mixture of frozen
and dry foods can form the basis of a balanced and
nutritious diet. Frozen shrimp, krill, mysis, mussel,
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Fluval SEA Epoxy Stick
Also, understand that a reef is a competitive place, and certain corals can
actually be considered aggressive. Some grow quite substantially and can
block light for those beneath them, while others can use their ‘sweepers’ to
attack neighboring corals. With that said, don’t crowd your corals and make
sure they always have access to the aquarium light above.
clam, spinach, kelp and an assortment of frozen foods
(which consists of a mixture of various crustaceans and
vegetables) are all excellent choices. Including some
flake and pellet food is always recommended to ensure
additional nutrients are provided.
Remember that certain species may have a stronger
need for plant matter than others (surgeon fish, for
example), so ensure you do your research carefully and
give them exactly what they need.
You will also want to ensure that your place your corals securely to avoid
getting knocked over by water movement, snails, crabs, urchins, etc. Corals
must be bonded using a marine water-safe adhesive such as the Fluval Sea
Epoxy Stick.
Feeding Your Corals
Many corals that photosynthesize also require feeding. For corals with very
small polyps, there are a variety of powdered and liquid commercial diets
available. When feeding short polyp stony corals, err on the side of less food
since they are already strongly supported by light and photosynthetic process.
The same can be applied to anemones. LPS (large polyp stony) corals, on the
other hand, need foods such as chopped clam or krill, and require that water
movement is stopped (or at least reduced) about 15-30 minutes so they can
properly ingest. Feeding usually twice a week is fine.
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CHAPTER7
CHAPTER7
FISH, INVERTEBRATE AND CORAL SPECIES
FISH, INVERTEBRATE AND CORAL SPECIES
Fish,
Invertebrate
and Coral
Species
When considering what livestock to
place in your tank, choose wisely as
this is another area where mistakes
can easily be made. As a responsible
saltwater aquarium owner, it is your
duty to keep livestock that is not only
suited to your skill level, but also
well-matched to the environment you
place them in (i.e. compatible tank
mates, size of tank, lighting needs,
etc.).
CLOWNFISH
Clownfish are hardy and great for both beginners and advanced hobbyists.
They are easy to come by, fun to watch swim and are can even pair up and
breed in your tank. Clownfish are also often captive bred, which supports
the sustainability of the hobby. We cannot expect to harvest wild-caught fish
from the ocean forever, therefore, this supports the longevity of the species
for future generations to enjoy.
Tip: Gold Stripe Maroon and Tomato Clownfish are examples of species that
can be aggressive and large in size. Opt for Ocellaris or Percula Clownfish
instead. They are hardy, much more friendly and smaller in size.
CHROMIS
Chromis make great starter fish as they can better withstand environmental
stresses. They are in the same family as damselfish, but are not aggressive.
Chromis are also very colorful, so they’ll add interest to your aquarium.
Tip: Stick to buying one Chromis. People often buy several in the hopes they
will school in the tank. Over time, however, they always disappear, leaving
the remaining few to fight with one another.
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BLENNIES
CARDINALFISH
GOBIES
Blennies are also great for beginners.
They’re colorful, hardy and rarely
aggressive. They are fun to watch,
often perching on rocks and waiting
for food to drift by. Blennies also
eat algae, which will help keep your
aquarium clean.
These are another commonly
captive-bred species that usually
hover in one area of the tank. They
also have big eyes, making them
viewable even at night. The Bangaii
Cardinals particularly do great in
saltwater tanks.
The Pink Spot Shrimp Goby and
Orange Spot Diamond Goby are
hardy and will sometimes eat
mouthfuls of sand, which will get
sifted through their gills.
Avoid Scooter Blennies and
Mandrins. They eat small
invertebrates in your tank, called
coppepods, and nearly all saltwater
tanks can’t produce enough pods to
keep them alive.
The Yellow Watchman Goby is a
resilient starter fish and fun to watch.
The Randall’s Goby is also interesting
to observe as it has a nicely shaped
dorsal fin.
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CHAPTER7
CHAPTER7
FISH, INVERTEBRATE AND CORAL SPECIES
FISH, INVERTEBRATE AND CORAL SPECIES
Popular Fish with Special Considerations:
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MANDARIN GOBIES
DAMSELFISH
TANGS
ANTHIAS
Despite their beautiful coloration and
notorious fluttering fins, Mandarin
Gobies often only eat coppepods
such as Scooter Blennies. Most
saltwater tanks can’t produce
enough pods to keep the Mandarins
alive, therefore, their life expectancy
is short lived.
As mentioned previously, damselfish
are often recommended for saltwater
aquariums as they are considered
to be a great starter fish. When
selecting Damsels, choose species
carefully as some are less aggressive
than others.
Tangs are a delicate species and
require a well established aquarium
to thrive. They are best suited for
larger tanks (55 gallons and above)
as they need lots of swimming room,
despite what others may say.
These beautiful fish are readily
available, but can be delicate. They
require frequent feeding and should
be paired appropriately with the
opposite sex so they don’t fight.
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LARGE ANGELFISH
(FRENCH, EMPEROR ANGELS)
These fish can grow over a foot in
length and require lots of swimming
room. They are best suited for larger
aquariums, which you likely won’t be
starting with.
EELS, LIONFISH, GROUPERS
These fish are for predator-only
tanks. They don’t play well with
others and certainly aren’t ideal for
beginners.
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CHAPTER7
CHAPTER7
FISH, INVERTEBRATE AND CORAL SPECIES
FISH, INVERTEBRATE AND CORAL SPECIES
CORALS
CORALS
CANDY CANE CORAL
(CAULASTREA FURCATA):
DUNCAN CORAL
(DUNCANOPSAMMIA AXIFUGA):
GREEN STAR POLYPS
(BRIAREUM VIRIDIS):
RICORDEA (RICORDEA FLORIDA,
RICORDEA YUMA):
YELLOW POLYPS
(PARAZOANTHUS SPP.):
ZOANTHIDS
(ZOANTHUS SPP.):
Max size: 12” / Min. aquarium size:
10 gallons. They are hardy and
fast growing, with short sweeper
tentacles that will need occasional
trimming. They eat a typical smallminced carnivore diet.
Max size: 2” per polyp / Min
aquarium size: 2 gallons. These are
a passive, non-aggressive coral that
are also hardy and grow fast. They
are carnivorous, and prosper from
some target feeding.
Max size of polyps: Less than
0.5” (which spread rapidly) / Min.
aquariums size: 10 gallons. This is
another great passive coral choice,
which is mostly photosynthetic
(feeding not necessary).
Max. size: 2.5” / Min. aquarium
size: 1 gallon. Yet another mostly
photosynthetic species that benefits
from micro plankton feedings. They
are generally passive, however, can
sting encroaching corals.
Max.size: 2” (can spread rapidly) /
Min. aquarium size: 2 gallons. They
can be aggressive, so some removal
from time to time may be necessary
as they can easily multiply. They
are also mostly photosynthetic, but
can ingest typical carnivorous diets.
Max size: 0.5” / Min. aquarium size:
2 gallons. Zoanthids are mostly
photosynthetic, but we suggest
feeding them a couple of times per
week with a typical carnivorous diet.
They do need room as the colony
can spread rapidly.
SAND ANEMONE
(PHYMANTHUS SPP):
Another passive, non aggressive
species, Pineapple coral thrives
with a typical carnivorous diet fed
at night.
MUSHROOMS (DISCOSOMA SPP.
RHODACTIS SPP.):
INVERTEBRATES
Max. size: 4” (can spread rapidly
and encroach on other coral) /
Min. aquarium size: 2 gallons.
These are also passive and mostly
photosynthetic, but can benefit from
micro plankton feedings. Keep them
at the bottom of the tank as they
prefer lower light.
CAMELBACK SHRIMP
(RHYNCOCINETES DURBANENSIS):
Max size: 5” / Min. aquarium
size: 10 gallons. Nematocysts are
mild and best suited to smaller
aquariums. They eat a typical
carnivore diet (shrimp, mussel,
krill, etc.).
PINEAPPLE CORAL
(BLASTOMUSSA WELLSI):
Max size of colony: 18” / Min.
aquarium size: 10 gallons. They
will need to be pruned, but handle
carefully as the skeletons are fragile.
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CLOVE POLYPS
(CLAVULARIA SPP):
Max size of polyp: Less than 1”
/ Min. aquarium size: 10 gallons.
Clove polyps are not aggressive,
and be warned that Pygmy angelfish
may eat or pick at them. They
benefit from night feedings of a
typical carnivorous diet.
Max size: 2” / Min. aquarium size: 2
gallons. They eat a carnivorous diet
and are good scavengers. Although
typically peaceful, they are capable
of attacking some polyps in rare
instances. Keep them in groups.
CLEANER SHRIMP
(LYSMATA AMBOINENSIS):
RED LEG HERMIT CRAB
(PAGURISTES CADENATI):
Max.size: 2” / Min. aquarium size: 10
gallons. They make a great addition
to your tank as they are hardy,
peaceful carnivores that help to clean
parasites from fish hosts.
Max. size: 1.5” / Min. aquarium size:
2 gallons. These nocturnal crabs are
scavengers that also help to clean
your tank as they require algae in
their diet. They are peaceful, but may
kill a snail to obtain a bigger shell for
their own growth.
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CHAPTER8
IDENTIFYING AND PREVENTING FISH DISEASE
Identifying
and
Preventing
Fish Disease
Most living organisms can suffer
illness at one time or another.
The most effective way to deal
with this reality is to prevent
it from happening in the first
place. Having to treat a stocked
aquarium with medication can
be stressful in itself. You need to
get to know your fish well if you are
going to spot diseases or illnesses
before they become untreatable, so
spend time observing our fish and
how they normally interact within the
environment. If you see any variation,
the first thing to do is to check
water quality as it may be a sign of
pollution or poor conditions. If this
is not the problem, you should then
seek advice from an authority
(i.e. your local fish store or supplier).
TOP 10 TIPS FOR PREVENTING
FISH DISEASE:
1. Choose only healthy fish, avoid
purchases from aquariums
containing sick fish.
2. Purchase fish in limited groups,
slowly build fish populations.
3. Consider a quarantine aquarium.
This will allow observation and
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Fin and Tail Rot
Torn ragged fins,
possibly stuck
together
Eye Cloud or Pop Eye
Protruding or cloudy eyes
CHAPTER8
IDENTIFYING AND PREVENTING FISH DISEASE
LOOK FOR THESE
SYMPTOMS OF SOME
COMMON
FISH DISEASES
Body Slime and
Mouth Fungus
White viscous film on
lips and mouth
Ich
White spots
preventative treatments before
exposing new fish to established
aquarium inhabitants.
4. F ollow proper acclimatization of
new specimens.
5. A lways condition new water with
Fluval Water Conditioner before
adding to the aquarium. Chlorine,
chloramines, and metals are
damaging to aquarium inhabitants.
6. P erform basic water tests and
maintenance on a regular basis.
7. A fter power failures, ensure
that all equipment is working
properly. Observe fish carefully,
temperature variations will stress
them.
8. R
egular illumination periods are
important for fish and plants.
Switch lights on and off at the
same time every day or use an
automatic timer.
Velvet Disease
Infected fish have a dusty look, the
treatment is similar to White Spot.
9. If a medication has been used,
after the treatment is complete,
perform additional water changes
and use Fluval Carbon filter media
to remove residual traces. Test
water and dose with Fluval Cycle
or Biological Enhancer and Fluval
Aqua Plus or Water Conditioner.
(Note: Carbon should always be
removed from the filter during
medication and replaced only
when treatment is complete.
Please note that many corals are
affected by fish medications, so
caution is advised).
10. S upply regular feedings of
various quality foods.
COMMON FISH DISEASES
White Spot Disease (aka “Ich”)
A common ailment that responds to
treatment well, although it is best to
treat the whole tank.
Slimy Skin
A thin grey film that covers their
body, usually in response to
parasites.
Tailrot/Finrot
Look for torn, ragged or fins stuck
together. Try to treat at early stage.
If the rot reaches the body, cure is
unlikely.
Pox
White spots that join to form patches.
Fish become emaciated and twisted,
often caused by poor condition and
food.
Skin/Gill Flukes
Watch for fish scratching themselves
on rocks or plants, this nasty parasite
causes colour to fade and fish to
become feeble. They may rest near
the surface. The good news is that
this disease usually responds well to
treatment.
Mouth Fungus
Unlike body fungus, this requires
specific treatment.
Eye Infections
Cloudy, protruding eyes could be the
sign of fungus, bacteria, parasites or
even fish tuberculosis.
Fungus
Usually only attacks fish weakened
by other poor conditions, disease or
parasites. Healthy fish will not be
affected.
Dropsy
Highly contagious and difficult to
cure, the fish’s body can become so
bloated that the scales protrude. Sick
fish must be removed at once.
Hemorrhagic Septicemia
A bacterial disease that is visible by
reddish patches and streaks on the
fishes mouth, fins and body.
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CHAPTER9
CHAPTER9
WHAT COMES NEXT?
Essential
Schedule
The best formula for
success is to keep a regular
maintenance schedule. Here
is a quick guide you can
refer back to at any time for
your future reference.
WHAT COMES NEXT?
EVERY DAY:
FEED FISH twice daily in small amount, taking care not to
overfeed.
CHECK ALL INHABITANTS for disease, liveliness and normal
behavior.
CHECK TEMPERATURE and make sure pumps, filters and lights
are running smoothly.
REMOVE ANY DEBRIS like accumulated waste sitting between
coral polyps or rock structure, uneaten food, etc.
EVERY 1-2 WEEKS:
PERFORM A PARTIAL WATER CHANGE.
Change out about 15-20% of your water to ensure cleanliness
and reduce build up of unwanted chemical waste. Be sure to
replace any water you remove with newly mixed saltwater at the
same specific gravity and temperature as the aquarium (Your
hydrometer will be needed here). Also, measure basic water
parameters (pH, Magnesium, Alkalinity, Calcium, etc.) using a
proper test kit, and supplement where necessary. Remember,
Fluval SEA offers a full range of saltwater supplements.
CLEANING INSIDE AND OUT.
Remove visible waste and siphon off water. Clean your lighting
unit with a proper lens cleaning kit to ensure a consistent light
source reaches your livestock. Clean glass surfaces (inside and
out) with specially designed algae scrapers, whether or not you
see any algae growth.
EVERY 1-2 MONTHS:
MAINTAIN FILTER Check your filter impeller and change out any
expired filter media by referring to your specific filter instruction
manual. Also, remove any circulation pumps or return pumps and
clean them thoroughly as accumulated carbonate and calcium
deposits need to be removed. Use 1 part vinegar to 3 parts water
to your pumps in the solution. You can use the same solution to
clean out your protein skimmer. If you are using a sump, this is a
good time to remove the foam bubble trap and thoroughly rinse
it out.
CHECK YOUR SUPPLIES Food, supplements, test kits, filter media
and other regularly used items.
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What Comes Next?
Congratulations, you now have a saltwater tank set-up in your house!
So what comes next?
• A dd more fish, slowly! Remember that your aquarium’s biological filter is
young and needs time to develop. Adding 1 fish every 1-2 weeks is plenty. As
always, make sure you understand the species you are placing in your tank by
researching them and asking questions to the experts at your local fish store.
• D
uring the 2nd week of your tank’s life, perform a water change. A water
change involves taking out a percentage of your tank’s water, then adding in
freshly mixed saltwater. Replacing 15-20% of your aquarium water volume is
recommended. You will want to perform a subsequent water change about every
2 weeks to maintain ideal conditions.
• C onsider adding a few small reef hermits or a small group of snails. These
invertebrates act as a natural clean-up crew, actively eating algae and leftover
food while helping to dislodge waste in small nooks and crannies. You do not
need many - a few of each will do the trick.
10 BASIC RULES FOR
RUNNING A SUCCESSFUL
MARINE AQUARIUM
1.
Research the livestock you wish
to keep before purchase. Think
long-term and know their specific
needs (i.e. lighting, diet, etc.) and
compatibility with other species.
2. P rovide appropriate, regular and
varied feeding 2-3 times a day.
3. A void overpopulating your tank with
too many fish or corals. Remember
that they will eventually grow.
4.
Remember that some species of
coral are more aggressive than
others, so don’t crowd them
5.
Understand the nitrogen cycle,
especially when starting a new
aquarium.
6.
Remember that water movement is
essential. Always leave adequate
space when adding rock for proper
circulation.
7.
Ensure you mix a quality marine salt.
Fluval SEA salt dissolves quickly and
consistently provides accurate pH
levels.
8.
Keep water stable (consistent
salinity level) and supplement as
necessary. Use test kits to check
ph, KH, calcium, etc. parameters
regularly.
9.
Maintenance is crucial – ensure you
follow the daily, weekly and monthly
schedule mentioned previously.
10.Enjoy your aquarium - it’s a
fascinating underwater world!
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If you have any questions or
queries, don’t hesitate to
contact us:
Canada: 1-800-554-2436
U.S.A: 1-800-724-2436
United Kingdom: 01977 556622
or email us via our website:
FluvalAquatics.com
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U.K.: Rolf C. Hagen (U.K.) Ltd. Castleford, W. Yorkshire WF10 5QH
M1060E
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