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2013
In the Scenic North West Nebraska Pine Ridge Country
FREE
To Hiway 18 ~ Black Hills ~ Pine Ridge Reservation ~ Rapid City, SD
Sheridan County, Nebraska is an area of infinite
variety. South of the Niobrara River is the vast
SAND HILLS cattle country, while in the north is
found the dryland and irrigated FARMS bordered by
the majestic buttes and
canyons of the great PINE
RIDGE.
Sheridan County provides
an abundance of hunting,
fishing, hiking, sight-seeing
and relaxing.
The communities of
Gordon, Rushville, and
Hay Springs, along with the
unincorporated community
of Clinton are located in
the north of the county on
US Highway 20.
State Highway 2 runs in
the extreme south of the
county and passes through
the village of Ellsworth,
originally the headquarters
of the historic Spade
Ranch. (see more inside)
Further west Highway 2
goes through Lakeside.
As the late Charles Kuralt
said on his famous CBS
program “On the Road”;
“Highway 2 is not just another highway that goes
somewhere,
Highway 2
is somewhere.”
In addition to friendly
folks and hospitality offered in all these communities, travelers will experience a glimpse of pioneer
history.
FIND OUT MORE ABOUT
US ON THE INTERNET:
Both US Highway 20
and State Highway 2 are
Scenic Byways.
www.visitsheridancounty.com
Metcalf
State Wildlife
Mgmt. Area
THE BRIDGES TO
On
BUTTES BYWAY
Highway 20 from the high
bridges of Valentine to the
high plains near the Wyoming border, this 197mile byway along reveals
the rich diversity of Nebraska’s scenic landscapes.
t
ll L
he
oS
e
ak
www.sandozcenter.com
www.gordonchamber.com
www.rushvillene.com
Championship Rib Contest
Rushville June 22nd, 2013
2013 Sheridan County Fair & Rodeo
Gordon July 22~27, 2013
Hay Springs Friendly Festival
Walgren
Lake
August 22~24 , 2013
Rushville Fun Days
Rushville September , 2013
iver
ra R
a
r
b
Nio
30th Annual
Willow Tree Festival 2013
www.willowtreefestival.com
Gordon September 14 & 15, 2013
Smith
Lake
THE
SANDHILLS
JOURNEY SCENIC BYWAY on Highway 2 The
272-mile stretch through
the impressive Sandhills
from Grand Island to the
railroad community of
Alliance has been named
one of the ten most scenic
routes in the nation.
For
more detailed
information
go
to
www.visitnebraska.gov/
scenic-byways
Mari Sandoz
Gravesite
Rancher Roundup Octoberfest
Rushville October 19, 2013
Fall Festival & Hay Bale Contest
Parade & Chili Cookoff
Gordon, October 25 + 26, 2013
Area Attractions
Ft. Robinson State Park
Crawford
Museum of the Fur Trade
Chadron
Arthur Bowring Ranch State Park
The former
boom town of
Antioch
Hunting & Fishing
Deer, antelope, turkey, grouse, pheasant, duck and dove are locally abundant
Must have landowner’s permission.
Fish at Walgren Lake, Smith Lake and Shell Lake
Open to the public Must have fishing license
Merriman
Easy day trip to the
Black Hills & Pine
Ridge Reservation—
Reservation
Pow Wows & Rodeos
many in the area every
weekend
Native American Art
& Culture
See more on back page
2
The Story of Sheridan County, and how it started:
When the strip of land 69 miles long by 36 miles wide was
carved off of Sioux Co. in 1885 and named Sheridan Co, the
town of Rushville was named the temporary county seat. The
location of the permanent seat was put to vote and in the first
election it was Rushville 540, Gordon 352, Hay Springs 232
and Clinton 79. Since none of these was a majority, a new election was called. Gordon and Clinton withdrew, leaving Hay
Springs and Rushville to battle it out.
The Sheriff was riding to town with the ballot box from the
Hunter Precinct south of Rushville. The story is told that he met
a friend on the road who told him that Rushville had lost by
200 votes. The Sheriff returned to the ranch where he lived
and later showed up in town with the box.
The count was 226 for Rushville, which was about 200 more
than the number of voters in that precinct. The board refused
to count the extra ballots and gave the election to Hay Springs,
839 to 735.
The commissioners were preparing
to move, but some
Rushville residents
took exception and
filed suit. The matter was referred to
the Nebraska Supreme Court. That
court ordered the
canvassing board to
reconvene and count
votes ’as sent in’.
the This is a view of Rushville in 1904, looking southeast
from 1st and Main Streets
So the county seat was kept in Rushville
The community of “Rush Valley” by the side of Rush Creek
was 2 miles north of where the railroad chose to build, however.
Undaunted, the merchants were among the first to purchase
town lots from the railroad controlled by the Pioneer Townsite
Co. They built new buildings and moved their goods to the new
town of Rushville along the iron road. Many structures were
framed up part way and topped off with a tent. In the same
year (1885) a petition was presented to the county board for
the incorporation of Rushville, and the board granted it and
named the first trustees: Peter Bruhn, Chris Mosler, Ed
McEachron, L.F. Enderly, and O. Meservy.
A tax levy of 7 mills was established in June of 1886.
Exploring Sheridan County
published at
The Sheridan Gallery
158 Sheridan Street
In Gordon, NE
To see this publication on line:
e-mail [email protected]
Or [email protected]
www.thesheridangallery.com
Designer: Jean Curry-Hess
Owner
Early Rushville was a
bustling, busy place with
many large, permanent,
brick buildings which still
stand; the court house, the
elementary school, the first
public library building, the
Masonic Hall, and the
Modisett Card Club
(for
gentlemen only, built and
maintained by the Modisett
brothers)
Rushville claimed in its
promotional literature that it
had a “healthy climate”, and
substantiated it by the fact
that the first person buried in
the cemetery was shot to
death during the railroad construction.
The new town had the
advantages of the Sheridan
Co. courthouse, railroad and
the nearby Pine Ridge Indian
Reservation to become a supply point for a large trade
area.
The Bureau of Indian Affairs maintained a large warehouse in Rushville until the
1960’s for the freight that
was shipped to the reservation. ‘Buffalo Bill’ Cody established his head-quarters in
Rushville when he was looking
for talent for his wild west
shows. He paid the Indians in
script that was redeemable
only at the Rushville stores.
Caroline Graham
508 E. 2nd St
Rushville
308308-327327-2487
Queen Beds
Microwaves
Cable TV
Kitchenettes
Refrigerators Coffee Pots
Steve & Carol Elwood
Noon Specials
Owners
Monday—
Monday—Friday
327-2143 Steaks in the evening
The Historic Plains Theatre was erected in 1914, by
prominent Rushville businessman, David Gourley and
became the Gourley Opera House.
House At the time it was
built the theatre was one of the most modern such establishments in the western half of the state. The upstairs was later converted to a movie house; downstairs
was used as a dance hall and roller rink.
The Plains closed in the 60's and gradually fell into
disrepair. In the
90's local business people and
volunteers began
the slow process
of restoration.
Today, the
theater is listed
on the Nebraska
Historic Register
and since 1998
it has served as
the home for
the Sheridan County Players, a non-profit theatre company.
In 2001 the Players were recognized by the
Governor as a leader in Rural Economic Development.
Website URL: users.connections.net/
sheridan_county_players.htm
By 1913 the town of
Rushville had “an opera
house, 2 hotels, 2 banks, a
flour mill, 2 grain elevators, and waterworks.”
Two weekly newspapers,
The Standard and The Recorder, and a new courthouse costing $25,000.
As the city prospered, many residents gave generous gifts to their
town. Most notable
was
Albert
Modisett who had
come to Sheridan
Co. by way of
Texas from West
Virginia to seek his
fortune in the cattle business. He wrote his
widowed mother and said
“I have my own land with
good water that cooked
my beans more tender than
any other place I’ve been.
Come! Albert”
She came with all her
fancy southern plantation
belongings and helped him
establish his new stake. His
sister Rosa became the mistress of the house, and ran
the cook house for the
ranch.
His
brother Mayre
founded
the
Stockmen’s Bank
in
Rushville,
(now
Security
First Bank)
Albert Modisett
died in 1935
and
his
will
specified that the
executor was to purchase a
tract of land, not less than
20 acres, dedicated to the
public and to be known as
“Modisett Park”
Also provision for suitable ground and buildings
for a Baseball Park, and the
sum of $5,000 to be expended in carrying out this
provision.
The sum of
$10,000 was set aside for
the erection of a Community Hall, to be invested
until it equaled $20,000.
The city was to provide the
site for the Hall and the
stipulation was made that
dancing would not be allowed there. $5,000 was
set aside for a Masonic Hall
whenever t he Lodge
deemed it advisable to
build.
All property in his
name was to be reverted to
cash as soon as possible and
placed in a trust, the net
income to provide for the
maintenance and improvement of the parks, the Halls
and the Fairview Cemetery.
TRYOUT CAMP AT
RUSHVILLE ~
[email protected]
Phone & Fax: 308-327-2335
CUSTOM PRINTING,
OFFICE SUPPLIES, AWARDS
& MORE
Jama Bolek ~ Owner
207 E 2nd St
Rushville
The Modisetts were faithful baseball fans, and with
their money Rushville built
a paragon of a little park
with substantial stands, sodded infield, good lights and
an underground sprinkling
system.
A layout worthy
of a professional club, this
park led Rushville businessman, Gene Leahy to his Big
Idea—which was worthy of
mention in the 1958 Baseball Digest.
Gene’s brother, Frank
Leahy, who was an American football player, coach,
college athletics administrator and professional sports
executive, and Gene’s
friend, John Quinn, manager of the Milwaukee
Braves got their heads together and Rushville hosted
the only major league tryout school in Nebraska for a
number of years.
The
town’s people opened their
homes to house the 200
boys who came for the tryouts.
The author, Mari Sandoz
was a good friend of Albert
and corresponded with him
from NY City, as he encouraged her writing ambitions.
Caroline Sandoz Pifer collected much information on
the Modisett family, as she
had it on her agenda to write
their story. She also served
on the Museum Board for
Highway 20
3
Sheridan Co.
However she was not able
to finish the project and it
was completed by Sybil
Malmberg Berndt in 1999
and published as “The Saga
of the Modisett Ranch”
Ranch” It
includes many pictures and
interviews of neighbors of the
Modisett family and those
who were employed by them.
RUSHVILLE
Sheridan County’s Ford Dealer since 1936
Sales, Lease, Parts & Service.
FORD CERTIFIED SALES & SERVICE
www.sidesandmilburn.com
.sidesandmilburn.com
327- 2472
[email protected]
This tiny community
posted huge billboards at
the edge of town to proudly
proclaim the site of the
school. Gene Leahy said “It
was the thrill of my lifetime
to realize that Rushville was
to have the school and that
our boys so far out in the
sticks, would get big leagur
tutors. Any boy (16—21)
who can get here is welcome.” And many came
200 to 400 miles. As many
as 6 states were represented.
Eddie Dancisak, chief
Midwestern scout, and Russ
Schon, scout for the Nebraska sector, recruited a
southpaw by the name of
Dale Hendrickson from the
town of Gering, Nebraska in
1954. He played for the
minor leagues and was good
enough to train with the
Braves in 1958.
Find out more at the Sheridan Co. Museum on Hiway 20 in Rushville
The Modisett will specified
that no kittenball’ (softball)
would be played on the
baseball diamond, so a new
softball park was built near
the golf course.
Frank Leahy was head football coach at Boston College (1939-1940) and at
the University of Notre
Dame from 1941 to
1943, and again from
1946 to 1953, compiling
a career record of 107-139. Hs record is second
only to Notre Dame Fighting Irish coach, Knute
Rockne, who was his coach
from ‘28-’30. He served
as general manager of the
AFL’s Los Angeles Chargers in 1960. He was inducted into the College
Football Hall of Fame in
1970.
4
GORDON’S FOUNDER
Rev. John Scamahorn
a Methodist minister and civil
War veteran, in the spring of
1884, led a colony of 104
settlers from Indiana to the
Antelope Creek Valley. They
traveled by rail to Valentine,
which was the end of the railroad at the time.
Then, outfitted with wagons and teams they first followed the railroad survey,
then the Newman ranch trail,
which crossed and re-crossed
the Niobrara River. Finally
they took the Kearney trail to
make camp by “the lone willow tree” on Antelope Creek,
a landmark on the empty
plain. On May 12, 1884
Scamahorn conducted the
first religious service standing
on the tongue of his wagon.
A church was formed that
day with 12 charter members.
Scamahorn suggested the
present site for the town; he
was the first postmaster, doing business out of an old
trunk, was prominent in civic
and political affairs and left
an indelible mark on the
town, yet refused to let it be
“saddled with a name like
mine.” Instead he suggested
the name Gordon for the infamous John Gordon who led
an illegal mining party bound
for the Black Hills. A detachment of cavalry from Camp
Sheridan was sent to stop
them; southwest of the
Scamahorn settlement their
supply wagons were set afire
and pushed over the bluffs
into the Niobrara River.
Though the Gordon Party
was illegal, the commanding
lieutenant from Camp Sheridan was later dismissed from
the service for this ‘offense’.
Apparently John Gordon
was held in high esteem or
sympathy to be considered
as having a town named for
him.
On November 19, 1885
a small group of men met
for the purpose of qualifying
and organizing as trustees
for the Village of Gordon. A
code of laws was set up to
govern and regulate the
The Rev. John A. Scamahorn
frontier town. Two druggist
permits were issued and a
license was granted to D.C.
“Doc’ Middleton to sell
spiritous, vinous and malt
liquors. Big crowds began
RV PARKING
East Hiway 20
GORDON
205 N. Main Street
(308) 282282-0770
coming to town on Saturday
nights and Main Street business began to grow.
A Methodist Church was
built west of Main Street on
2nd and Rev. Scamahorn
was the pastor, but he was
in business as well and newspaper ads proclaimed:
“Scamahorn & Davis
Fancy Groceries.
Also Flour, Feed, Boots
& Shoes, Queensware.
In Prices for Cash.”
Many years later the
present brick structure replaced the first little church,
which was unceremoniously
moved to a remote location
in the north west part of
town. There it sat, occasionally the site of a revival
meeting, but mostly neglected and empty.
Hester French, a retired
florist, undertook a project
to restore the building and
with it the historical artifacts
of the early town. M a n y
years of fund raising and
hard work resulted in moving and refurbishing the
building at its present location on West 5th Street in
the edge of Wayland Park.
A lower level was built, and
both upper and lower are
accessible at ground level.
The museum collection
is large and diverse, and
brings back many memories
of life in 20th century
Gordon. Furnishings from
homes and businesses in
Gordon, including medical
and dental tools, and many
pictures are well displayed
See page 9 for more information
about Scamahorn Museum
Gordon
DAY ~ WEEK ~ MONTH
(308) 282-1011
(308) 360-9163
Tomorrow is a mystery.
Today is a gift. That is why
they call it the present.
Eleanor Roosevelt
The first hospital in
Gordon in 1931 was opened
by Dr F.W. Vaughn at 600 N
Main Street, and later sold to
Dr. F.W. Wanek and Dr.
W.K. Wolf. In 1949 representative group of businessmen, farmers and ranchers
met to formulate plans for a
new hospital. In six weeks
the people of the area had
donated $150,000 and the
new hospital opened in 1952
at the present location;
in
1959 a hospital district was
approved.
This was the realization of
the dream of Dr. Wanek to
provide medical facilities that
would attract doctors to this
rural area, and provide residents with the best care.
In the long succession of
doctors that followed, to the
present most long term doctors were native Nebraskans
including Dr. Metcalf, Dr.
Tom Wallace, Dr. Owen, Dr.
Panzer and Dr Hutchins.
The present day medical
services in Sheridan County
operate under the umbrella
of Regional West Hospital in
Scottsbluff, and modern
technology is a great boon to
facilitating the excellent care
that is offered. There are
doctors and PA’s on staff in
the clinic in Gordon and the
satellite clinic in Rushville.
Several doctors conduct clinics once a month in Gordon’s
facilities, as well as a Veteran’s Clinic which is a satellite from Hot Springs, SD.
Gordon, Rushville and Hay
Springs all have excellent
nursing homes as well as assisted living facilities.
We are extremely fortunate to have the medical services that are available in
Sheridan County today.
Quality, Custom Made
Hats & Accessories
Personalized, custom fit
Quality and satisfaction guaranteed
Gary & Joan Waugh
308308-532532-1700
Located South of Gordon ~ Just north of
the City Water Tank
5
FROM AUTHORS TO OUTLAWS
MARI SANDOZ (1896-1966) STORYTELLER
American biographer and novelist
writes: “I was born at what was
then Sandoz post office, Sheridan
County, Nebraska, the eldest of
six children of Jules A. Sandoz
from Neuchatel, Switzerland and
Mary Elizabeth (Fehr) Sandoz of
Schaffhausen, Switzerland.”
In
the home of ‘Old Jules’ Sandoz,
trapper, locator, horticulturist and
community builder, I grew up
speaking German; hearing French,
Polish, and Czech, and English,
which I learned after I started school at the age of nine.
“I began writing stories as soon as I learned to put
letters together.”
The feats, passions and distinctive speech of the
Western Nebraska homesteader come alive in Mari’s
writings. She left a legacy of 23 books, sympathetic
Indian studies, Great Plains History, as well as the biography of her own father Old Jules, who eked out a living on the new frontier.
Mari Sandoz is buried in the sandhills on a hillside
overlooking the Sandoz Ranch south of Gordon.
Of her themes she says, “I always come back to the
Middle West. There’s a vigor here, and a broadness of
horizon. Besides, I believe that the creative worker
must not wander too far from the earth of his emotional
identity.”
The Mari Sandoz Heritage Center resides on the
campus of Chadron State College in Chadron, Nebraska.
It abounds with information about her work.
http://www.sandozcenter.com/
Mari had referred to the Walgren Lake Sea Monster in
Old Jules. . . . . . . . . . .
“Some thought it a survival
of the coal era. But Johnny
Burrows and other fundamentalists of the Flats knew
better. The same devil that
scattered the fossil bones
over the earth to confound
those of little faith could
plant a sea monster among
the sinners.”
The gravesite of Mari
Sandoz is open to tourists
at all times. Old Jules’
home in the sandhills and
the orchards may be seen
from the outside, or
contact Celia Ostrander
at (308) 327327-2560
for further access.
for further information
about books
or to order Mari Sandoz
books or other books
about the area:
call (308)(308)-282282-9972
or ee-mail:
[email protected]
LEARN FROM
THE PAST . .
LOOK
FORWARD TO
THE FUTURE
Nebraska had its share of outlaws and gunmen too, but
most of them were just traveling through . . heading
north to the gold fields, or west. Among those who
stayed were David C. (Doc) Middleton and his gang.
Doc specialized in horse stealing, although he did some
cattle rustling too. A soft spoken man and something of
a Robin Hood, he frequently gave stolen livestock to
homesteaders or small ranchers, and they, in return
would offer him sanctuary when the law was too close to
his heels. In 1879, he was caught and sentenced to five
years for horse stealing. Paroled after 31/2 years, Doc
went straight.
Why, at one time
he became the deputy sheriff in Sheridan County!
He
lived in Gordon and
operated a saloon
here.
He had a
daughter who died
as a child and was
buried
in
the
Gordon cemetery.
Picture from Nebraska, A Pictorial History, published by University of Nebraska Press—1967
He died in 1913,
while being held in
the county jail in
Douglas, Wyoming for
bootlegging.
BOOKS BY MARI SANDOZ CAN BE PURCHASED AT
THE SHERIDAN GALLERY 158 Sheridan Street in Gordon 308-282-9972
Has Niobrara HONEY
And Home Made
Goodies at
GORDON FARMER’S
MARKET in Gordon
Saturday Mornings
282282-1267
About 30 miles south of Gordon on Hiway 27, (which is designated the
Mari Sandoz Sandhills Trail) is a Nebraska Historical Marker which tells of
Mari Sandoz. Just to the north is a country road which leads 3 miles to her
grave site. Mari got her wish to be buried in the golden prairie land she
loved to walk in all seasons. This fruit farm was tended by her sister Flora
Sandoz until her death. On the hillsides are remnants of cherries, apples,
pears and other fruits and vines of Old Jules’ first experiments with the
State Horticultural Society. See more on page 15
Serving Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner ~ in Gordon
2825:30 AM ~ 9PM 107 E Hiway 20
282-2754
6
The Sheridan Gates. The
early military road to
Camp Robinson passed
between these buttes.
These are mostly private
lands.
A State Historic Marker
stands at the entrance to
the City Park in Hay
Springs, which tells of the
Spotted Tail Agency (18741877)and Camp Sheridan
(1874-1881) which were
located north of Hay
Springs.
The area north of Hay
Springs is quite scenic. It is
said that Beaver Valley is
inhabited by the ghosts of
the Indian Wars and Chief
Crazy Horse. If you have a
good imagination you
might hear the hoofbeat of
Indian ponies or the clink
of a cavalry spur.
Beaver Wall offers a
panorama of pine-topped
buttes. West of this wall
are two buttes known as
119 N Main Street,
HAY SPRINGS
The Metcalf Wildlife
Reserve is a great area
for hunting deer and wild
turkey with your camera
or during hunting season,
but you will have to
walk.
Self Catering Inns
Full kitchen, cooking utensils, dishes,
bedding, and towels provided
See us at
www.
www.hayspringsrentals.
hayspringsrentals.com
“Coming to Hay Springs?
Stay With Us!”
Dave & Mary Hansen
Call us at 308308-638638-4404
638.4580
Owners—Don & Mary Vanatta
Open Thursday—Friday—Saturday
5:00-9:00 pm
Serving Certified Angus Beef
Hay Springs was originally
named Mochler and was
located about two miles
west of the present town.
It was located along a
creek that flowed south
and east of Hay Springs,
eventually flowing into
Walgren Lake. When the
railroad was built the town
was relocated and renamed
Hay Springs after the finest
wild hay flats and best living springs in the area.
The post office was originally in a small building
just east of main street,
then moved to the building
which presently serves as
the museum on Main
Street. The town was incorporated in 1885, as
were the other towns along
the railroad, that being the
year the rail road was completed through this area.
One of the biggest dance
halls in northwestern Nebraska was located in Hay
Springs about 100 years
ago. It was called the
“Chicken Roost” and was
in a livery barn just south
of the tracks. It also
housed Red Dotson’s
White Rose Gas Station
and Ernie Blum’s fix-itshop. Dances were held
every Saturday night on
the upper floor and large
crowds attended.
Boogie-woogie was
banned, out of respect for
the aging floor, whose timbers trembled from too
much whoopee.
One
night a fight broke out at
one end of the dance hall
and everyone crowded to
one end of the floor to
see.
The floor gave way…..
but it was propped up by
the next Saturday, so the
dances went on as usual.
Walgren Lake and
the Sea Monster
Walgren Lake is an alkali
lake which was called
“Stinker Lake” by the Indians because of the alkali
smell it gave off. In the
early 1920’s the story got
started that there was a sea
monster in the lake. The
story soon spread all over
the world and people came
from all over to try to get
a glimpse of it. In 1936
John Lambert built a home
near the lake and started a
fishing resort. Then the
state decided to make it a
state recreational park and
changed the name to Walgren Lake. Improvements
were made by the W.P.A.
and it has since been well
stocked with fish and has
very nice camping
facilities.
The allegations of a
large creature inhabiting the waters continued and many clippings of news reports
of the monster have
been collected from
the local papers as
well as from far
away.
At any rate it provides a
good deal of fun and fantasy at the local Friendly
Festival in August, which
has been an annual event
for nearly 100 years.
Hay Springs Annual
Friendly Festival
will be held August
22-24, 2013 It is a
lively time Celebration with Parades,
races, an art show,
and more.
Something
for everyone.
This poster was reproduced in the Hay
Springs Centennial Book,
no date available
It inspired Mari
Sandoz to write
her story of
Ossie and the Sea
Monster.
PO Box 340
231 N. Main St.
Hay Springs
Member FDIC
638.4416
A relationship you can count on.
7
This entire paper was designed and published
at
THE AD PAD by Jean CurryCurry-Hess
The Ad Pad has been serving Sheridan County in
graphic design, printing for 29 years, starting out in
Jean’s home and later moving downtown.
The business was located at 117 Main Street and
occupied that building for almost 20 years.
The studio is now at THE SHERIDAN GALLERY
& GIFT store, which is also the home of Jean and
her husband, Ron Hess, at 158 Sheridan Street.
Come on in and relax, or call us at 308308-282282-9972
for information. We have room for RVs, and love
to treat our visitors to Sheridan County Hospitality.
See more at www.thesheridangallery.com
The “Soddy”
At the turn of this century (2000) Nebraska had
over 100 sod houses still
standing.
The Nebraska
Historical Society discovered nine of them just in
Sheridan County, including
one still being used as a
hunting lodge. Probably
no building material is as
synonymous with the Great
Plains, mined from the surface strata of Plains soils,
complete with the roots
and rhizomes of prairie
grasses and forbs.
The
structural strength of this
material was derived from
the interlocking structure
of the root mass. Buffalo
grass was one of the most
important grasses of the
high plains of Nebraska,
Kansas and Colorado,
where it was often found in
pure stands. Its sod is extraordinarily dense, with a
structure of fine but very
tough roots spreading
widely in all directions.
This root system allowed
for the cutting of bricks of
great dimensional stability.
Sod construction Post Office and store
built for J.B. Strasburger when he came
from Chicago in 1908.
The earliest reliable account of the use of sods for
building comes from Ft.
Kearney. There, in 1848
Lt. Daniel P. Woodbury
started his troops preparing
adobe bricks, but later
shifted their effort to sod
cutting in order to speed
construction.
Eventually blacksmiths
designed customized plows
not to break the sod but to
carefully turn it in order to
later cut it into building
blocks. They were laid in
masonry fashion, grass side
down generally with the use
of lumber as a leveling device about mid-wall. The
roof was usually constructed
of lumber with shingles.
It takes its name from
the landmark near which
the town’s first settlers built
soddies and shanties; and
which for many years earlier
had been a place of meeting
for riders over the plains
and through the Sandhills
“See you at the Lone Willow” they would say as they
made arrangements for a
future rendezvous.
And
now today, thousands of
people of all ages from just
about everywhere rendezvous in Gordon for the Willow Tree Festival at the
City’s Parks.
It is in this spirit of ‘A
place to meet’ that we
invite you and your family
to meet us at the Willow
Tree Festival on the banks
of Antelope Creek at
Winship Park on Oak Street
in Gordon.
The festival grounds in
Gordon, encompasses two
c i t y p ar ks
an d t he
community building with
the streets blocked off to
make the grounds a large,
safe area for all day family
fun. Artists and crafts people set up displays in multicolored booths.
Church
fellowships, youth clubs and
service organizations tantalize hungry multitudes with
30th Annual
ethnic foods and steak
sandwiches, polish sausage,
funnel cakes and snow
cones.
THE GAZEBO STAGE
is the focal point of
Winship Park, which is on
Oak Street between Third
and Fourth Streets. This
stage features professional
singers, musicians and
dance groups from the
Mid-Western Region and
beyond.
Lively Gazebo
performances
have
included a variety of
performers such as jazz,
big band, blue grass, folk,
country, classical, gospel,
rock, comedy, dancers,
etc.
Several performers
are featured each of the
two days of the festival, in
one half hour to 45
minute intervals. Seating
is provided, or you can
bring
your
own
comfortable lawn chairs.
THE
CHILDREN’S
STAGE is located in
Wayland Park, north of
Winship Park, on the north
side of Fourth Street. A
variety of acts such as
mimes,
puppeteers,
jugglers, clowns, magicians
and musicians grace the
stage, all guaranteed to
fascinate the children and
Sep
Gordon,
Nebraska
In the
City Parks
September
14 & 15, 2013
2 full days of
PROFESSIONAL PERFORMERS
plus Clowns, Mimes and
Supervised Activities for Children
Local Talent ARTS & CRAFTS
& Fun Festival FOOD
www.willowtreefestival.com
keep the young at heart
entertained for hours.
Supervised children’s
activities, arts and crafts
projects are also offered.
THE COMMUNITY
STAGE is located in the
community building at
311 Oak Street east of
Winship Park. This is a
showcase for local area
talent
representing the
whole spectrum from
country to classical and
every age group as well.
Seeing friends and
neighbors from the entire
area perform has made
the Community Stage
very popular at the
Willow Tree Festival.
Dudek’s
Christian Bookshelf
123 N Main St
Gordon
282-2469
Inspiration
for your
Life
Bringing you
the best for
almost 30
years
www.jdudek.com
Motel Restaurant Lounge
605 West Hwy 20 Gordon, NE
Motel 308.282.1400
Restaurant 308.282.0075
8
Heritage Center II in the Strotheide
Building at 2nd and Main Street
in Hay Springs
The second Heritage Center
on Main Street in Hay
Springs displays the historic
DeCastro Dental Office, Boy
Scouts display, a Model A
fire truck, country post office, Camp Sheridan, the
Spotted Tail Indian Agency,
a black smith shop, Northwestern State Bank.
Also available is information about Crazy Horse. the Lakota holy man and leader
and his renowned biographer and history author from
Sheridan County, Mari Sandoz.
The Hay Springs Heritage Center I
230 North Baker Street in Hay Springs
The Hay Springs Heritage Society
Committee was able to buy the
church building to serve as a
branch museum in 1967. Work
began on the Center immediately
and other buildings have been
added to the grounds. They include a refurbished one room
country school and an original
claim shack.
Inside the main building you will
find old photographs, and many
items from early day Hay Springs
and the surrounding area.
Hours: Friday & Saturday 1-4 pm
OR Contact: David Perkins @308-638-7643
[email protected]
ELLSWORTH
The Cowpoke Haven and Historic
Spade Ranch The
GORDON
The Tri-State Old Time
Cowboys Memorial Museum
is
located
in
Winship Park on
Oak Street in
Gordon.
It tells the
tales of cowboys
from Wyoming,
Nebraska
and
South Dakota.
It boasts a
genuine
old
chuck
wagon,
saddles, chaps,
spurs,
brands,
tools and gear used by early ranches of the late
1880’s to modern times; as well as many pictures of its cowboy members, past and present.
That wonderful old way of life is changing, but
this is still the “greatest cattle country on
earth.”
An addition is being built on the museum
which will include a kitchen, office and more
display space for cowboy artifacts. It will be
open by mid-June of 2013.
They have published several books which are
available there.
The museum is open from 1-5 pm
June through September, or by contact with
David Browder 282-1115
Store at Ellsworth was
built by Bartlett Richards, original owner
of the Spade Ranch in
1898.
It is now owned and operated by
Wade Morgan along with his
trusted canine called “Bob”. They
sell clothing, a good line of books
about the west, saddles and tack,
guns and even some merchandise
for motorcyclists.
Wade has been keeping the western history of this area
alive. The store building and the Dist. #119 North schoolhouse have been recently added to the National Register of
Historic Places, and two other buildings in town are eligible.
The Bartlett Richards house still stands, and there is an active
3 lane bowling alley.
Contact: Stephanie Graham @ 308-762-2949
The Scamahorn Church Museum
West 5th Street in Gordon
In the early 1980’s the original Methodist Church, built in
1885 by the founder of Gordon, Reverend John Scamahorn,
was purchased to serve as a museum for the town. Over ten
years of work and with donations from the Gordon area saw the
building moved to its location in Wayland Park on the 200 block
of West 5th Street. It was stocked
with the artifacts of the community which had been carefully collected over the years.
In 1994 it was turned over to
the Sheridan Co. Historical Society and now has a display on
the main floor that includes
antique medical equipment
and office furnishing, quilts,
dishes, furniture, Native
American beadwork, old time
photographs, period clothing,
military memorabilia, an
elaborate antique doll house,
and more.
The basement of the building
houses material which tells the
story of the early merchants of
Gordon.
The goal is to interpret the history of Gordon
and its trade territory through
display and research.
Hours: During June, July
and August on Monday
through Friday from 1-4 pm
OR Contact: Harlan Wheeler
@ 308-360-0900 or
Lori Meng @ 282-2716 for
arrangements to view the
museum at other times or use
the research center.
9
The 1890 Armstrong House
At the corner of U.S. Highway 20 and Nelson Avenue in Rushville
The Rushville Museum moved out of its basement
location in 1960 to its present location, under the
leadership of Judge Benschoter. Artifacts that interpret the history of Rushville, the county and surrounding trade territory were incorporated into the
displays. A log cabin that
had served as an early day
Rushville Post Office and
telephone
office
was
added to the grounds. A
library was added which
includes area history and
pre-history.
Upon the
death of Judge Benschoter’s wife this library was named in her memory. Today it is the Benschoter Library in memory of them
both. The library is not a lending library and is only
available on site with the curator present.
Among the displays in Armstrong House are military
and Native American history of the Indian Wars era from
Camp Sheridan (1874-1881) and Spotted Tail agency
(1874-1877), open range ranch history, old photographs
and paintings, early day lodge and fraternal display, store
items, defunct bank display, early day clothing and more.
The post office/telephone office is set up as an early day
home post office, with the original central phone board
from White Clay.
Next to the log building is an Eclipse Windmill from the
1880’s era, manufactured by Fairbanks, Morse & Co. of
Beloit, Rock County, Wisconsin. These mills were named
"railroad" pattern because of their use as early as 1870 in
supplying boiler water for steam locomotives. Produced in
styles for either pumping water or producing power, they
were manufactured in sizes ranging from 16' up to 35' in
diameter, and were marketed throughout America.
Open Memorial Day through Labor Day
Hours: 8am—
8am—7pm Monday ~ Saturday
OR Contact:
Jerry Wellnitz at 308308-327327-2985
for appointment to view the museum at other
times, or to use the research center.
Andrew Standing
Soldier
Oglala Lakota
(1917-1967)
Old timers in Gordon. . .
like myself . . . will remember when the many paintings
by Andrew Standing Soldier
lined the walls of the showroom at Borman Chevrolet.
Standing Soldier, like so
many Native American artists, received very little formal art training. His painting
style developed when traditional ledger art was popular,
and Euro-American easel
painting was emerging.
He received his primary
education from the Pine
Ridge Boarding School. In
the 1930s, Standing Soldier
studied under Olaf Nordmark, a federal artist-inresidence in Pine Ridge.
At age 22, he won a major prize at the 1939
World’s Fair in San Francisco
for a watercolor submitted to
the United States Pavilion.
He did much of his work as
the result of commissions,
including illustrating several
primers for Native American
children, sponsored by the
Bureau of Indian Affairs.
His own style was well executed, subdued and simplified; yet in proper perspective, it was suggestive of the
unusual land formations on
the Pine Ridge Reservation.
He succeeded in creating
recognizable, coherent backgrounds and authentically
portrayed human subjects.
In 1961, he and his family
moved to Gordon and here
he found a patron in Doug
Borman, a local auto dealer.
Borman allowed him to paint
in the auto showroom and
Welcome to Sheridan County,
County Nebraska, where legends, railroads and the
Old West create a unique
historical adventure.
An adventure you must see and
experience to believe!
Allow your senses to
fully experience
Sheridan County.
Feel the tranquility of nature.
Enjoy our widewide-open spaces,
brilliant blue skies and
starKnow the pleasures of pure country life
star-filled nights.
Sheridan County Visitors Bureau
www.visitsheridancounty.com
proceeded to collect a significant body of his work.
Many regional people collected his work, including
the owners of the wellknown Wall Drug at Wall,
South Dakota.
Our own hometown
drugstore, which once was
Ferd Shald’s grocery store,
still has a wonderful mural
which was painted by Andrew. I urge you to visit
the building and take note
of it.
The Borman family has
recently donated the collection to the Crazy Horse
Memorial at Custer, SD.
They had previously given
a large collection of native
American artifacts to that
museum as well.
108 N Main in Gordon
282282-0220
7am ~5pm M ~ F
7:30 ~ noon Saturday
Free WiWi-Fi
The Sheridan
Gallery & Gifts
Featuring Original Art by
Local Artists
Prints
Books by Mari Sandoz
158 Sheridan Street
Gordon, NE
308-282-9972
Superior
Consignment
Clothing
With The Loft featuring
Junque with Funk
206 N Main Street
308308-282282-2053
Handbags
Tops
Clutches
Jeans
Jewelry
Tin Haul [email protected]
Corral Boots
www.facebook.com/JunkWithFunk
10
Early History of the Sheridan County Fair
The Sheridan County Agricultural Society, better
known now as the “Fair
Board” was organized in
1885, before the dust had
settled over the covered
wagons that brought the
settlers here. Its purpose
was “the discussion and promotion of agriculture in all
of its bearing and development.” The first fair was
held that year.
In early years the emphasis was on agricultural and
livestock exhibits. Old Jules
Sandoz was a frequent exhibitor, eager to prove that
fruit could be grown in this
‘desert’ country. Entertainment consisted of races—
horse races, foot races,
wagon races, relay races,
and even something billed
as a ‘parasol and gown
race’.
From the beginning the
neighboring Indians were a
colorful part of the fairs.
They camped near the
grounds and were furnished
beef on the hoof in exchange for their display of
traditional dancing and costumes. There were as many
as 2,000 participating.
In 1914 the advertising
promised five aeroplane
flights, ten horse races, four
free attractions, a play each
evening and a daily band
concert. The crowd was
estimated at 5,000.
The first objective of
the ‘promotion of agriculture’ was not forgotten.
Premiums paid were in the
hundreds of dollars. Needlework, art and educational exhibits had been
added as well.
They struggled but held
on during the drought and
depression of the ‘dirty
thirties’. In 1939 the riders listed as winners in the
rodeo events came from
Arizona, Montana, Wyoming, Oklahoma, Colorado, Kansas, and new
Mexico. But in the bareback riding the local talent
prevailed with Rex Campbell from Mullen, Ernie
Abold of Rushville and
Bernie LeBeau of Martin
winning the first 3 prizes.
Wayne Louks of Gordon
won 4th in saddle bronc riding.
The 75th Anniversary of
the fair in 1960 held many
traditional and additional
events. The rodeo was sanctioned by the Nebraska State
Rodeo Assoc. and Northwest
Ranch Cowboy’s Association. In 1963 the Tri-State
Old Time Cowboys Association was born at a ‘roundup’
of many area ranchers at the
park during the fair.
Later in that decade the
attendance began to decline
and new events and attrac-
tions were added to appeal
to a wider audience. In
1971 the decision was
made to join the Professional Rodeo Cowboy
Assoc. (PRCA) and advertising as “Pro-Am” to allow
both professional and amateur cowboys to compete.
A local rancher named
Jess McGinley joined the
board in 1977 and soon
was elected president. The
1980’s under his leadership
were years of building and
improving the grounds and
the arena, and building a
new grandstand to replace
the aging wooden one
which had served for over
half a century.
Jess spent many hours
on the grounds personally
tending and managing the
activities. The arena, especially was his interest, with
new chutes, corrals, announcer’s booth and arena
surface.
Jess passed on in April
of 1992. At the rodeo
that year the arena was
named in his memory.
When the name was unveiled on the front of the
announcer’s booth everyone in the grandstand
stood up and cheered.
WESTERN
SANDS MOTEL
107 W Hiway 20
In Gordon
308-282-1795
Host: Maxine Nyland
July 21 ~ 27, 2013
2 Rodeos
Carnival
Concert:
Restless Heart
www.sheridancountyfair.com
Tri-State Oldtime Cowboy Museum, 4th and Oak Streets
in Gordon.
Hours: 1-5pm June through Sept.15
Wireless internet
•
Hunters Welcome
•
Cable TV w/ remote
•
HBO
Many rodeo champions have called Gordon home, and we are still making
champions today! They are to numerous to mention, but information about
them can be found at the Tri-State Oldtime Cowboy Museum
Dick Louks writes in More
Cowboy Trails & Trials that
Cecil was an interesting
character— ’he walked very
bent over, no one would
Open 1-5 pm every afternoon take him to be the cowboy
June 1 through September 15
that he was.’
He was married to rider,
Maxine McClusky, lady
A TESTIMONIAL TO THE bronc who was killed when
she was bucked off and hit
RUGGED
WESTERN LIFE OF
Cecil Henley on a horse called
THE OLD TIME COWBOYS
her head. The horse had
“War Paint” at the Sheridan
WHO WORKED AS RANCH
been used for a lady’s
HANDS AND PERFORMED
County Fair & Rodeo,
AT THE SHERIDAN COUNTY horse, but ‘something must
“Nebraska’s Most Colorful Show.”
RODEO.
have taken place in his attiPhoto and information taken from
More Cowboy Trials & Trails,
available from
Tri-State Oldtime
Cowboy Museum
on 4th & Oak Streets in Gordon
•
tude about things. He was
put back in the regular bucking string and bucked off
everyone who drew him for
some time after that.’
Cecil kept going and rode
in the Denver Stock Show
Rodeo when he was 50 years
old. During his career he
rode the great horse, Hell’s
Angels to win a first place.
During WWII he was working in an aircraft plant and
lost his life in an accident at
the plant.
Tires & More
504 East Highway 2020-Gordon
Email: [email protected]
308-282-1088
MondayMonday-Saturday 8:00am8:00am-5:00pm
1:00--4:00pm
Sunday 1:00
11
Ike George came out in
1884 and took a homestead northeast of town.
He helped build the first
In 1884 a railroad sur- school house in 1885
veyor named Tom Hunting- which was located near the
ton, became acquainted present school building
with Abel Love in Oakdale, (the large brick building
Nebraska and persuaded him you see from the highway;
to come to Sheridan County it is no longer in use)
to seek a claim. Mr. Love It was also used for church
came and chose the quarter services until the church
section of land on which the building was erected in
town of Clinton is now lo- 1889 in the west part of
cated. There being no rail- town.
Henry Hess came from
road beyond Valentine at
that time, he traveled to his Hessville, NY in 1885 and
claim by wagon caravan in took a claim just north of
Later his
the fall and built a small the town.
house on his homestead. In brother Norman came with
1885 the railroad came his children Seward,
through and he was ap- Stanton, Adelmen, Howard
pointed postmaster and sent and Florence, settling in
in the name “Clinton” to be the area.
Seward later married
confirmed in Washington,
DC by the postal service. Emma Love. Their boys
He received 15c a day to Harley, Avery and Lester
meet the train and distribute later put Clinton ‘on the
map’ with a town basketthe mail.
Other members of the ball team which won games
Love family came out on from Chadron to Stuart,
the train; John Love, Willie Nebraska.
Love, Emma Love and their Some of the most ardent
mother Martha, all from supporters of the team
Gallia County, Ohio. Mar- were Ray Lyon (banker),
tha was a Civil War widow Lynn Cunningham (game
and was the first woman to warden) and four-year-old
get off the train at Clinton. ‘Curley’ Hess.
The Town of
Clinton
SALE EVERY TUESDAY
Specials as advertised
Best damn cattle in the world
Owner: Dick Minor, Jr.
308308-360360-0427 ( cell )
308308-282282-2655
The Cowpoke Haven
and Spade Ranch
at Ellsworth
The Store at Ellsworth
was built by the Spade
Ranch in 1898. In 1970
Veldon and Wanda Morgan
bought the historic building
to house their western tack
manufacturing business, and
retail store, calling it Morgan’s Cowpoke Haven.
In 1995 their son took
over the store and, along
with his trusted canine
called “Bob” has been selling clothing, saddles and
tack, a good line of guns
and even some merchandise
for motorcyclists who come
in occasionally. Wade has
been keeping the western
history of this area alive.
Bartlett Richards bought
his historic ranch from Bennett Irwin on August 10,
1888, and he named his
new holding the Spade
Ranch. Irwin helped him
move the cattle onto the
property.
Richards had
other cattle interest in Nebraska and Wyoming.
He later formed partnership with Cairnes Cattle
Co. and by the 1890’s the
ranch and holdings grew to
eight hundred square miles
Office: 308-282-1171
Fax: 308-282-1182
Gordon, Nebraska
[email protected]
www.gordonlivestock.com
“Where the hardgrass
meets the Sandhills”
in Sheridan and Cherry
counties. They ran cattle in
the sandhills from Ellsworth to Merriman.
In
1899 Cairnes sold his
stock in the company and
resigned his position on
the board and Will Gardner
Comstock took his place.
Bartlett Richards
Source: Nebraska State Historical Society
The Sheridan
Gallery & Gifts
Featuring Original Art by
Local Artists
Prints
Books by Mari Sandoz
158 Sheridan Street
Gordon, NE
308-282-9972
The Italian Inn
200 N. Main St.
Gordon
Homemade Italian Food
Exceptional burgers
& Steaks
Daily Lunch Specials
TakeTake-out 282-0247
Restaurant 11am — 9pm
Lounge 11am - midnight
Monday~Saturday
FACTS OF RURAL LIFE
A singlesingle-family farm
contributes an average
of $720,000 to the
local economy, or the
equivalent of eight
$40,000 “town obs”.
On average, 7 farms
support 1 town business.
♦ Rural areas are strongholds of entrepreneurship, with sole proprietorships twice as high
in the plains rural
counties as in urban
counties.
♦ Seventy percent of net
job growth in rural
counties in the past ten
years was in nonnon-farm
selfself-employment.
There is consideration
in Washington of increasing the funding for the
MicroMicro - enterprise Assistance Program for provide
funding for loans, training
and assistance to rural
small businesses.
This
would be a start on reversing the bias against small
rural businesses in national
economic policy.
♦
The everyday kindness of
the back roads mare than
makes up for the acts of
greed in the headlines.
Charles Kuralt
12
Nebraska is 2nd in the nation in numbers of cattle
in feedlots; 66 million annually. It also ranks 2nd in the
nation in ethanol production. The two industries go
hand in hand.
There are 93 million commercial hens laying eggs in
Nebraska; that’s 10th in the nation, and we rank 6th in
hog production. All those animals are fed either
ground whole corn or ‘distillers’ corn. Distillers corn is
a by product of ethanol plants. Only the starch is taken
out for fuel, and the rest becomes high value livestock
feed. So you see, our livestock industry fuels our ethanol production and the ethanol supports the livestock.
Nebraska livestock generates
$7 BILLION annually.
This is providing jobs, and adding value to Nebraska’s farms and ethanol plants. There are 25 ethanol plants in Nebraska and they consume 565 million
More than 99% of the corn bushels of corn angrown in the US is field corn nually, after the distillers grains are exused for these purposes, not the
tracted.
sweet corn that humans eat, so
all that ethanol production is not
taking food out of the mouths of
people, but rather it is producing the high value protein of
beef, chicken, pork and eggs.
Nebraska farmers aren’t just growing record amounts
of corn, they use less
water, less energy
and less fertilizer and
chemicals than ever
before.
‘No till” practices concentrate on disturbing the soil
as little as possible. This cuts back on the number of
trips across the field with heavy tractors, saving fuel
and reducing soil compaction.
Computerized planting and fertilizing systems increase efficiency and reduce waste.
The energy used to
produce an acre or
corn is 37% less than
20 years ago, and the
amount of corn produced on an acre is
almost 50% more!
Leaving cornstalks or
wheat stubble in the field in
the field conserves moisture
and reduces soil erosion.
(erosion has been cut by 45%
over the past 20 years) In
winter the stubble holds the
blowing snow so when it melts it goes into the soil.
In summer the growing corn plants are removing 8 tons
of greenhouse gas per acre. That is more than your car
produces all year.
Only 13% of corn grown across the country is irrigated.
NASCAR now uses ethanol.
It burns cooler and cleaner and provides all the power
needed to win.
The Historic Farming Economy of Sheridan County
The first grain elevators in Sheridan County were built by an
Omaha firm shortly after the railway line was completed in 1885.
One small 10,000 bushel capacity elevator was built in each of
the 3 towns of Gordon, Rushville and Hay Springs, about
1889-1890. At the time the
economy of the country centered
mostly in cattle and potatoes.
The wheat that was produced
was spring wheat and a large
percent was consumed at home
by the farmer, who took his
wheat to one of several local
mills and had it ground into flour.
A large flour mill was built in
Rushville in about 1900 and operated on a local and commercial
basis to serve stores along the
railroad and several trading posts
on the reservation and Pine
Ridge Agency. This mill was operated by the Evans family until
about 1948. South of Rushville
on Pine Creek a water powered
mill, called the
Colclesser
Mill ground the local wheat from
that area until about 1920.
In 1906 a second elevator was
built in Gordon by a group of
farmers. When it burned down a
larger structure was built and When the virgin soil of the
served as a cooperative until 1927 Pine Ridge Reservation was
and then sold to a local firm. In opened up to farming in
1932 it was purchased by The around 1926 several thouFarmers National Grain Co-op.
sand acres were put to flax,
Sheridan County was still pri- making Gordon the largest
marily a cattle, hog, potato and
feed grain area until after the shipping station for flax in
great depression. Then with the the nation in 1929.
introduction
of improved
farming
techniques,
more and
better machinery,
summer
fallow practices, and a
period of
favorable
weather,
grain surpluses began to build
Magowan Grain Co. in background originally Barstow Grain Co.
up and the dealers Elevator on the right was the first one in Gordon, built by Nye
Snyder in the 1880’s
again began to
expand facilities.
The first concrete elevator was additional 100,000 bu. annex and
built in Rushville by the Bell Trim- the Magowan Grain Co built a
ble Grain Co. of Omaha for Geo. modern structure in Gordon.
Buchus in 1949.
The Gordon Co-op built an
NEBRASKA BEEF RATED ’ THE BEST ‘ BY MANY VISITORS TO THE AREA
If you haven't tried it, your in for a treat!
Cattle are so much a
part of Nebraskan life today that it may seem
strange to think of a time
when there were none in
our area. When we think
of the west we think about
beef in America, but cattle
are not native to the
American continents. They
were brought to the
Americas by the Spanish in
the 16th Century. Before
that there were only buffalo, deer, antelope and
elk on the plains to graze
the native grasses.
In Mexico, strays from
Spanish herds, thrived and
grew into large herds of
wild and self-sufficient ani-
mals. Over 31/2 centuries,
these animals evolved into
the Texas Longhorn. The
Longhorn’s high reproductive rate, resistance to disease, and ability to fight off
predators allowed its numbers to grow into the millions by the time Texas
joined the Union in 1845.
They became the foundation
of the beef empires in the
American West and dramatically changed what Americans ate.
Before the Civil War
Americans ate mostly poultry, pork and game. Poultry
and small game like rabbits
and squirrels could be eaten
the same day they were
killed. Pork and large game
could be dried, smoked or
salted to preserve it.
Eventually, as the demand for beef grew in
Europe and also at home,
the railroads connected the
huge herds of cattle with
the industrial-scale packing
plants, and artificial refrigeration in the cities of
Omaha and Chicago, Sioux
City and others.
When Nebraska became
a state in 1867, it quickly
led in beef production because of the nutritious
grasses and abundant water
in the Sandhills, and the
rich farmland production of
corn for cattle feed.
Nebraska processes more than 20% of the beef in the whole US.
13
Much of Nebraska is a
rich fossil bed because the
area of The Great Plains
was once a vast inland sea
and the land now consists
of many centuries of sediment which built up at the
bottom of that sea. Then
the sea drained to the
south as the Rocky Mountains pushed up from the
west; they were once very
much bigger than they are
now, erosion has worn
them down.
Just before the last ice
age began, there was a
long period of warm tropical climate here. In that
climate lived many huge
elephants and bears and
the largest true cats that
ever lived.
There were also several
species of horses and giant
camels about twice the size
of present day camels.
Thousands of these skeletons
have been found in the Lisco
fossil quarries in Garden
County since 1939. With
them are the remains of large
tortoise which evidence the
warm climate. These are all
in the layers of sediment
which can be seen anywhere
there is erosion by water or
wind.
Later, the ice age brought
a long period of cold and the
fossil evidence changes to
mammoths, muskox and
other cold tolerant life. Our
best fossils are in the western
part of the state because the
destructive glaciers did not
reach this far.
We know that glaciers
once covered eastern Nebraska because big chunks of
Minnesota bedrock litter the
farms there and
farmers
haul them out of their fields
only to see new ones punch
The Mirage Flats Irrigation Project
. . . .
is in northwestern
Nebraska on the Niobrara
River. It includes Box Butte
Dam and Reservoir, Dunlap
Diversion Dam, Mirage Flats
Canal, and distribution and
drainage systems. Water is
diverted from the Niobrara
River to irrigate approximately
11,670 acres of fertile land on
the north bank of the Niobrara
river about 12 miles south of
Hay Springs.
The Bureau of Reclamation
was given authorization for the
project by the President on
April 26, 1940, under the
terms of the Water Conservation and Utilization Program
Construction was started in
January, 1941 but was suspended by the War Production
Board order of December,
1942. Construction was resumed in 1944 and completed
in 1946. The distribution system was completed in 1948.
Water is stored in Box
Butte Reservoir on the Niobrara River about 10 miles
north of Hemingford. The
reservoir also controls the flood
flows of the river. About 8
miles downstream of Box Butte
Dan, Dunlap Diversion Dam
diverts water into the Mirage
Flats Canal for irrigation.
Development of the project has stabilized the agricultural economy of the area,
resulting in larger farm populations and increased employment in related industries.
Box Butte Dam is a rockfaced zoned earthfill structure,
87 feet high and contains
1,422,000 cubic years of material. The spillway has a capacity of 2,700 cubic feet per
second. The total capacity of
the reservoir is 31,060 acrefeet. Currently the reservoir is
68.7% full at 21,323.0 acre
feet. The early homesteaders
on Mirage Flats in the late
1800’s had experienced a few
years of good crops and settlement of the land was greatly
stimulated. By 1885, there was
a homesteader on nearly every
quarter section. The period of
rapid settlement and good
Make new pdf (this page) for internet
up through the soil the next
year. These glaciers also
tend to act like bull dozers
and crush and destroy the
fossils, as well as displacing
them.
The Yellowstone cauldron erupted a couple of
times during this period of
time, covering Nebraska
with ash deposits which are
a wonderful time marker as
well as preservative in the
sedimentary layers.
In
some places the white ash
was deposited so thick that
for years the Cudahy Company was able to mine it
and manufacture it into Old
Dutch Cleanser, a nationally
advertised cleansing powder.
Rich bone beds from the
more recent middle Pleistocene age, were discovered
near Hay Springs about a
century ago. “Old Jules”
Sandoz sent the University
crops was followed by a sever
drought in 1893-94
Total failure of all crops resulted
and there was a general abandonment of homesteads and decline
of population. In about 1920
the Farm Security Administration
purchased 14,785 acres of land
in the area, of which 11,200
acres were irrigable. Land development, including re-subdivision
of the land into farm units, land
leveling, and construction of farm
irrigation systems were initially
done through the Farm Security
Administration and later through
the Soil Conservation Service.
The last farm unit was sold in
1950.
The 1930-36 drought resulted in crop failures again and
a revival of interest in irrigation.
The lake created by the Box
Butte Dam is ideal for aquatic
and outdoor sports. The high
temperatures that prevail during
summer, and the cleanliness of
the fresh water in the reservoir
combine to make the lake attractive for recreation. Many
varieties of game fish abound in
the lake and there are locations
suitable for picnicking around
the lakeshore.
Sandhills Land &
Property Management
for all your real estate needs. . . . . .
Sales / Rental Management
308308-282282-0715
cell 308-360-1913
304 E Hwy 20 Gordon
www.sandhillsland.com
Maureen Hess, Broker
of Nebr. the jaw of a gigantic beaver. The paleontologists who then explored
the area found fossils of
smaller camels, several
small species of horse and
many other grazers, but no
bison or elk from that period. Carnivores were several species of wild dog
and saber toothed cats,
and very large bears.
The diaries of several covered wagon travelers record
that curious antelope sometimes raced to overtake and
investigate the wagons, but keeping out of rifle range
and traveling along parallel with them for miles.
Unlike the buffalo, it was almost impossible to get
closer to them under these circumstances, since they
can attain a speed of 60 miles per hour!
J & L Grocery
14
The ‘FAIR STORE’ was the1st ‘Mall’ in Sheridan County
Full Breakfast
Tours &
Horseback
Riding
Local
Pow Wows
& Rodeos
Larry & Betty M.
Swick
HC-64 Box 43
Batesland SD 57716
(605) 288288-1800
Reservations required
ee-mail:
[email protected]
www.wakpamni.com
Main House:
The Lakota Room The Pioneer Room
The Cowboy Room
Plus a Guest House
with 3 bedrooms, 2 baths
And 2 Tipis
accommodating 1 to 3 people
Gallery and Gift Store
The largest building on
Main street in Gordon today
is over 100 years old and
was, at its beginning what
we would call a mall today.
The venture was established by Free Mills in about
1900 and he soon asked his
brother Fred to join him to
expand the project. They
called it the “Star Store” for
the Star ranch southeast of
Gordon which they owned.
In 1903 they incorporated as “The Fair” and in
1905 began building the
modern building of cement
blocks which were produced
by hand on the site.
In the new spacious
building Otto Pfeiffer was in
charge of the hardware department, with a sheet metal
shop in the basement, and
Charles Nenow was the
“tinner”.
There were shoes and all
types of men’s clothing under the management of
H.D. Huntington. Wm. R.
Annett was in charge of the
grocery department for
awhile, before he went to
ranching. Lottie Cassel was
in charge of ladies dry goods
and ready to wear. Nell
Brewer also clerked in this
department and later married W.R. Annett.
Newton Gates was the
licensed undertaker and a
portion of the upper story
was stocked with caskets.
Later Mr. Gates established
a grocery and dry goods
business with Clayton Folsum and Mark Howard was
brought in as mortician.
In 1909 an addition was
built on the south and it
became “The Fair Implement Dept.” under the
management of Walter
glover and Bob Johnson,
selling farm equipment.
They soon added an agency
for the new Ford Model T’s.
The Fair Store prospered
until the recession of 1919,
then it was liquidated and
the building was sold to
Otto Pfeiffer, who also
bought the hardware department, which was later sold
to John O’Connell.
An
out-of-town prospect failed
to complete his purchase of
the other 3 departments
and they were taken over by
Free Mills and his son Milbourne, who conducted
business until 1941.
Later the main part of
the building was operated by
Lee’s Stores and then Ben
Franklin Stores. The Mode
O’ Day women’s clothing
store occupied part of the
building for a long time and
the hardware store was later
called Dempster & O’Connell. (No other information
available about Dempster)
The building is now occupied by Hinn’s Home Furnishings. The original architecture and building materials are well preserved and
very distinctive.
‘Old Jules’ Sandoz and wife Mary.
As a horticulturist, Jules experimented with many varieties of fruit,
developing those which would
survive the climate in Western
Nebraska. His crops won many
ribbons at the county fair.
Marie (Mari) Sandoz had
her father’s intelligence and
sense of independence as
well as his stubbornness,
which all served her well to
spend a lifetime writing of
this country and the people
she knew. Her first published book was Old Jules,
acclaimed as an amazing portrait of both the man and
the homesteaders of Western Nebraska.
POTASH HIWAY
Something
for Everyone
Check out our web site
for dates and locations
www.treasuresfleamarket.com
Admission: $1
Seniors and Children:
Nada & Zilch
Preferred parking if
you are 60+
Antiques, Vintage, Tools, Knives,
Art, Furniture, Lots of Bling,
Food, Fun, Garage sales,
Air Brushed Tattoos,
Because the sandhills are now where there was once an
ancient inland ocean, many of the sandhills lake beds are
rich in potash, or potassium chloride. Potash, used mainly
in fertilizers, was imported from Germany in the early 20th
century, until World War I.
For a few short years, many towns along the railroads became boom towns for the
production and shipment of potash. Lakeside, and Antioch to the west, along the Burlington Railroad, which still carries coal from Wyoming, were two such towns. Concrete
skeletons of the coal fired reduction plants can be seen in both places today.
Antioch is non-existent today, but once grew from a sleepy cow town to 5,000 and
made the landowners and the railroad wealthy.
After the war, when German potash again became available, these towns declined
again and only Lakeside remains to serve as post office for the cattle ranches of the
area. Now even that function is in question as time and technology march on.
Hiway 27 to
South Dakota
Hiway to
Pine Ridge
15
GORDON
20
AY
H IW
CLINTON
200 West Hiway 20
In Gordon
308.282.0329
HAY SPRINGS
RUSHVILLE
HIWAY 20 produced
This publication
by:
Est. 1984
State Hiway 250
paved
county road
420 Lane gravel
1
THE
AD PAD
158 Sheridan Street
Home of the
BROWSER
Gordon
Map for a self guided tour
of Mari Sandoz Country.
282—9972
Graphic Design
Copies
Advertising
A coffee shop reader
Third Stop: Well Site just south of
the church at the bottom of the hill, marked by
a stone marker on the west side of the road.
3
5
short section of
sandhills trail, may be
difficult for town cars
Hiway 87
to Alliance
”Near the top the frayed rope broke and (Jules)
plunged sixty-five feet to the bottom, his foot doubled
under him . . .” (ref. Old Jules, p 44)
State Hiway 27
paved
gravel
gravel
Distributed in Sheridan County
And Digitally:
www.thesheridangallery.com
4
2
Full hook-up
Easy access
Nearby grocery store
Fourth Stop: Sandoz River
Place
follow the road directly east from
the well site marker, then left just past the
bridge.
First homestead of Old Jules
Fifth Stop: Swiss Beguin
Cemetery
continue east from the river over sandhills trails
to a junction with a county road. Several
6
First stop: Walgren Lake State Rec.
area
turn south on hiway 20, 2 miles east of Hay
Springs
paved coun
Scene of “Ossie and the Sea Monster”
by Mari Sandoz (ref. Old Jules, p 412)
Second Stop: Sacred Heart
Catholic Church (continuing
south from Walgren Lake) land donated by Old
Jules, not in religious ferver, but because the priest
was a stamp collector and an ‘admirer of the
Caesars’, therefore an interesting visitor.
(ref.
Old Jules p 114)
Hiway 250 to
Lakeside and
State Hiway 2
HORSE-THIEF CAVE RANCH
More than just a Bed and Breakfast!
2 beautiful miles of the peaceful Niobrara River Valley
Fully furnished clean, comfortable guest house
Abundant Wildlife
Arrowhead Hunting
Bird Watching
Hiking in Wooded Canyons
Come as our guest, Leave as our Friend.
RR1, Box 159
Gordon, NE
Plan your stay with us today
8
(308) 282282-1017
ty road
county road
gravel
7
Hiway 27 to Ellsworth and
the Historic Spade Ranch
State Hiway 2
Sandoz relatives buried here, along with Jules’
brother Emile who was killed by a hired gun in 1908 in
the conflict between cattlemen and settlers.
Sixth Stop: Smith Lake State Rec.
Area.
Turn south when your gravel road reaches the
Hiway. Beautiful sandhills lake with camping and
picnic facilities, wildlife watching. Good place to stop
for a picnic lunch.
Seventh Stop: Mari Sandoz
HisHis-torical Marker When you have
crossed the 13 miles to Hiway 27. Turn south and
proceed to the state hiway turnout overlooking
Bunger Lake
The gravesite of Mari Sandoz is open to
tourists at all times. Old Jules’ home in
the sandhills and the orchards may be
seen from the outside, or contact Celia
Ostrander at (308) 327327-2560
for further access.
for further information about books
or to order Mari Sandoz books or other
books about the area:
call (308)(308)-282282-9972
or ee-mail: [email protected]
Our website is:
www.thesheridangallery.com
Eighth Stop: Mari’s Grave Site
and the Sandhills Place Enter the
road just 1/4 mile north of the historical marker
at the Orchard sign. Proceed to the Mari
Sandoz sign and go 1 mile north to the windmill,
turn left to the grave, right to the sandhills
home.
This was a Kinkaid Act claim. Thirteen year old Mari
and her younger brother were taken there to live in a
tiny shack to establish the claim. (ref. Old Jules, p
350)
“It had always been that the dead returned to
the earth which fed them, as the flower
returned, and the tree and the buffalo and all
living things go back.”
HOSPITALITY
On Hiway 20 Gordon, Rushville
and Hay Springs offer lodging and
food and great hospitality.
RESTAURANTS & CAFES
In Gordon:
Antelope Creek Café 282-2754
Hacienda Restaurant & Lounge
308-282-0075
LODGING
In Gordon:
The Jefco Inn 308-282–2935
The Hacienda 308-282-1400
Western Sands Motel
308-282–1795
Italian Inn
308-282-0247
The Coffee-nook & Gifts
308-282-0220
Pizza Hut
308-282-0500
Subway
308-282-0559
Western Café
308-282-2020
In Rushville:
The Antlers Motel 308-327-2444 In Hay Springs:
The Nebraskaland 308-327-2487
Bar J Steakhouse 308-638-4580
Pheasant Run Restaurant
In Hay Springs:
Hay Springs Rentals/Inn
308-638-4466
GUEST RANCHES & B+B
Alcorn’s Hunter Haven 232-4508
Deer Meadow Outfitters 360-0664
Flying Heart Ranch 638-7426
Horse Their Cave Ranch 282-1017
Meadow View Ranch 282-0679
Wakpamni Bed & Breakfast
605-288-1800
308-638-4414
Silver Dollar Bar & Grill
308-638-7100
In Rushville:
Home Café 308-327-2199
Strike Zone Restaurant & Lounge
308-327-2245
20 Bar
308-327-2645
Yoba’s Bar & Grill
327-2143
There are only two ways to live
PLEASE THANK THESE ADVERTISERS
your life. One is as through
FOR THIS GUIDE TO SHERIDAN COUNTY
nothing is a miracle.
Hay Springs Rentals
Alcorn’s Hunter Haven
The other is as if everything is. Antlers Motel
J & L Grocery
Albert Einstein
Antelope Creek Café
Kirk’s RV Park
Bank of the West
Yoba’s Bar & Grill
Bar J Steakhouse
Nebraska Land Motel
The Closet
Morris Clothing
The Copy Shoppe
Pump & Pantry
The Coffee-Nook
Rushville Chamber of
Classic Quick Lube
Commerce
Dudek’s Bookshelf
Security First Bank
Gordon Chamber of
Sandhills Land &
Commerce
Property Management
Gordon Golf &
Sides & Milburn
Country Club
Sheridan County
Gordon Livestock Market
Visitor’s Committee
Guided Hunting for
Granny
W
Honey
Tomahawk
RV Park
Whitetail and Mule Deer
Horse Thief Cave Ranch
Treasures Flea Market
Upland Gamebirds
Merriam Turkeys
The Hacienda Restaurant
Western Sands Motel
Waterfowl
The Hat Rack
Wakpamni Bed
Predators
The Italian Inn
& Breakfast
& KENNEL
Remodeled 1930’s
Barn/Lodge Meals
Hot Tub Cable TV
Pointing Labs
Started Dogs and Pups
308308-232232-4508
www.alcornshunterhaven.com
RECREATION
Sheridan County offers a variety of activities for the outdoor enthusiast, including canoeing, bird watching, swimming, star gazing, fishing, picnicking and camping.
Gordon Golf and Country Club
You will be challenged by a tough nine-hole grass greens
course, "the best in the west," located on the west edge of
town. Several tournaments are sponsored during the season.
Youth activities are important at the club and visitors are always
welcome. Call (308) 282282-1146 for more information
Sand Ridge Golf Course
402 W 3rd St & Golf Course Ln Rushville 327327-2966
9 hole course ~ located south of the ball fields
CAMPING & RV PARKING
Tomahawk Court 200 W Hiway 20 in Gordon
is available for recreational vehicles and campers.
308308-282282-0329.
Kirk’s on East Hiway 20 in Gordon RV parking day,
week or month 282282-1011 or 360360-9163
Rushville Service Center 3510 US Hiway 20 in Rushville
327327-2375
Sunset RV Park In Hay Springs near the park,
pool and ball fields 638638-7275
See inside for more information.