February 2014 - Cuba Travel Services
Transcription
February 2014 - Cuba Travel Services
what’s on havana ! feb 2014 Searching for Pink Smoke The XVI Habanos Festival Julio Muñoz: Trinidad’s horse whisperer Guide to the Best places to eat, drink, dance and stay in Havana Services offered Direct Flights to Cuba Ground Transportation Assistance with Authorized Activities Car Rentals Group Itineraries Visa/Passport Application Hotel Reservations VIP Services For OFAC authorized passengers only. For terms and conditions see operator-participant contract. Flights operated by American Airlines and Sun Country Airlines Recommends for US travelers traveling under an OFAC license Photo by Alexander Mene Travel to Cuba with National Geographic and experience this enchanting island through the eyes of its people and the insights of our experts. Malecón, Havana Arranging flights from the US to Cuba Witness Cuba on routes less traveled. Meet the people. Experience their culture. Learn their history. Discover Cuba’s art, architecture and culture during an exciting people-to-people travel program. Center for Cuban Studies / Cuban Art Space Imagine Cuba! Let us make it real for you. Cultural and educational tours for more than 40 years. Dance vacations & salsa workshops in Cuba & Mexico. Experience, Explore, Dance! Organizing innovative cultural tours off the beaten track for more than 25 years. Enriching lives through travel since 1974 Custom travel to Cuba with an emphasis on personalized caring service. Recommends for independent, group and incentive travel to Cuba Photo by Alexander Mene Viñales valley Holidays to Cuba with Thomas Cook Everything and Everywhere in Cuba For the sophisticated traveler, tailor-made, with style and the individual touch Discover the heart of Cuba with the leading provider of cycling tours. The world belongs to those who know how to enjoy it. Tailored Cuba travel services by on-the-ground experienced professionals. Provides you with an insider’s guide to Havana through Havana-Concierge.com Bespoke Luxury Holidays in Cuba for the discerning traveler by Nicolas Ordoñez PHOTO With a Passion for Cuba Cuba Absolutely is an independent platform, which seeks to showcase the best in Cuba arts & culture, life-style, sport, travel and much more... We seek to explore Cuba through the eyes of the best writers, photographers and filmmakers, both Cuban and international, who live work, travel and play in Cuba. Beautiful pictures, great videos, opinionated reviews, insightful articles and inside tips. HAVANA GUIDE The ultimate guide to Havana with detailed reviews of where to eat, drink, dance, shop, visit and play. Unique insights to the place that a gregarious, passionate and proud people call home. Like us on Facebook for beautiful images, links to interesting articles and regular updates. Santy, Calle 240A No 3023 esq. 3raC, Jaimanitas Over 100 videos including interviews with Cuba’s best artists, dancers, musicians, writers and directors. OUR CONTRIBUTORS Follow us on Twitter for regular updates of new content, reviews, comments and more. We are deeply indebted to all of the writers and photographers who have shared their work with us. We welcome new contributors and would love hear from you if you have a Cuba-related project. You can contact us at [email protected]. Taxi driving down the Malecon, Dec 2013 Photo by Alex Mene Cover photo by Alex Mene showing Héctor Noas during the preliminary shooting for the Cuban Western Pink Smoke to be directed by Ernesto Daranas. editorial This issue features Cuba’s cigar smoking heritage. Stephen Gibbs takes us back a few years to a previous Festival del Habano with Sir Terence Conran, Amir Saarony updates the cigar aficionado with an insider’s guide to Havana and Pink Smoke hovers on the horizon. February is looking like a tough month for culture vultures in Havana. Put quite simply, there is not enough time—too many things to do, places to go. The Alfonso family is front and center with the Havana World Music Festival (Feb 7-8), organized by Eme Alfonso followed by the much anticipated opening of Fábrica de Arte Cubano on February 13, a project of X Alfonso. Mum and dad will also perform as part of the legendary group Síntesis. There is definitely something for everyone this month from Conner Gorry’s insights to her dysfunctional Harley extended family through pampered pooches, Cuba’s boxing titans, cigar smoking socialists and everything in-between. Don’t miss Christopher Baker’s story on Trinidad’s Horse Whisperer—brilliant. Hats off to Legendarios de Guajirito for the best in 1950s Buena Vista style show, Cuba Libro for their great new show ‘Con lo que haya’ (With Whatever There Is) and make sure you see Habana Abierta who have ceased being an urban legend and are everywhere this month! February 2014 Highlights • III International Harley Davidson Rally (Feb 6-10) • Havana World Music Festival (Feb 7-8) • Opening of Fábrica de Arte Cubano (Feb 13) • Feria Internacional del Libro (Feb 13-23) • Vuelta a Cuba (Feb 15-22) • Festival de Música Antigua Esteban Salas (Feb 15-26) • Cuba vs Kazakhstan in WSB (Feb 21) • XVI Festival del Habano (Feb 24-28) Thanks to all of our contributors, sponsors, partners and readers. Do please keep providing us with your feedback, comments and suggestions. All enquiries should be directed to Sophia Beckman at [email protected]. All the best. Viva Cuba! You’ve waited Long Enough page 4 Produced by .com Feb 2014 Photo by Alexander Mene FEATURES The XVI Habanos Festival p7 A cigar aficionado’s guide to Havana p9 My big new dysfunctional Harley family p13 havana culture Visual arts p17 - Photography p20Dance p21 - Music p22 - Theatre p37 - For Kids p39 CUBAN CUSTOMS Havana Mantras p40 Pampered pooches at the Havana Dog Show p43 Valentine’s Day in Cuba p45 Cuba’s Domadores dominate Guerreros (5-0) p46 Tour de Cuba (Vuelta a Cuba) p47 sport Travel Julio Muñoz : Trinidad’s horse whisperer p48 The 2014 Feria Internacional del Libro p52 Legendarios de Guajirito p54 Havana Buzz: Street Art at Cuba Libro p56 Havana Guide Restaurants - Bars - Clubs - Live Music - Private Places to Stay p57 You’ve waited Long Enough page 5 Produced by .com Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun Cuba Absolutely — With a Passion for Cuba Not to miss during February 2014 what’s on havana You’ve 3 10 17 24 Harold López-Nussa @ La Zorra y el Cuervo, 11pm El Micha, matinée @ Casa de la Música de Miramar, 5pm Time for a round of golf @ Diplo Club. Plenty of rum & cigars on the 19th hole. XVI Festival del Habano Feb 24 – 28, 2014 4 11 18 25 Dinner at El Litoral, one of Havana’s best new restaurants—watch life pass by on Malecón. Habana Abierta, David Torrens or Kelvis Ochoa @ Café Cantante Mi Habana, 5pm Opening of Veinte años: luces y sombras (5pm). Take the stress out of your day with lunch at Atelier—an ocean of calm with great food. 5 12 19 26 Tribute to Juan Blanco@ Stainless vs. The Casa de las Américas, Merger, Art exhibition 4pm @ Galiano gallery (showing all month) II Encuentro de Guitarras ‘Con lo que haya’ (With Identidades-2014: Feb Whatever There Is) 5-9 exhibition at Cuba Lunch at Iván Chef Justo, Havana’s most imaginative food. Dinner at Le Chansonnier, Havana’s coolest IT restaurant. 6 13 20 27 Legendarios de Guajirito @ El Guajirito, 9.30pm Bobby Carcassés @ UNEAC, 2pm Pancho Amat @ Museo Nacional de la Música, 5pm Legendarios de Guajirito @ El Guajirito, 9.30pm III International Harley Davidson Rally, Feb 6-10 Opening of Fábrica de Arte Cubano (F.A.C.) Feria Internacional del Libro, Feb 13-23 Dinner at La Guarida, Cuba’s most famous restaurant. Tue Wed Qva Libre @ Café Cantante Mi Habana, 5pm Alexander Abreu y Havana de Primera @ Casa de la Música de Miramar, 11pm Thu Michel Herrera @ Jazz Café, 10.30pm 7 14 21 28 Havana World Music Festival @ Círculo Social José Antonio Echeverría Concert by Silvio Rodríguez @ Fábrica de Arte Cubano Antigonón, un contingente épico by Carlos Diaz @ Teatro Trianón, 8:30pm (FRI & SAT) Danzando Sueños, Ballet Español de Cuba, 8.30pm Fri La magia de la danza by Ballet Nacional de Cuba, 8pm The ‘Love’ classical concert @ Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís 8 15 22 1 March Havana World Music Festival @ Círculo Social José Antonio Echeverría Flamenco por Dentro by Compañía Flamenca Ecos, 7pm Conclusion of Vuelta a Cuba (Feb 15-22) Brutal Fest’s 2014 Winter Festival in Havana Kpricho, Havana’s ultra modern and uber cool new club. Yasek Manzano @ La Zorra y el Cuervo, 11pm Festival de Música Antigua Esteban Salas Feb 15-26 Brutal Fest’s 2014 Winter Festival in Havana Festival del Habano, Gala Evening Sat Contigo pan y cebolla by Julio CésarRamírez Dinner at Santi. Jaimanitas’s off the beaten track world class sushi restaurant. 9 16 23 2 March My Dream by China Disabled People’s Performing Art Troupe, 5pm En Buena Compañía @ Carpa Trompoloco, 4pm & 7pm Pan American Purebred Dog Tournament @ Parque Metropolitano Máquina de la Melancolía @ El Sauce, 5pm onwards Jazz at Privé Lounge, 10:30pm waited Long Enough Jazz at Privé Lounge, 10:30pm page 6 ! Mon Produced by Sun Dinner at Casa Miglis, Centro Habana’s Scandinavian oasis. .com XVI Festival del Habano Feb 24 – 28, 2014 Photos courtsey of Habanos S.A. With Sir Terence Conran at the Festival del Habano By Stephen Gibbs Maybe someone was having a quiet joke. Perhaps it was a coincidence. But for one reason or another, Havana’s Karl Marx theatre was the setting for the inaugural night of celebrations in honor of that great capitalist prop, the hand-rolled cigar. The visitors, more likely to be socialites than socialists, come every year to rub shoulders with like-minded aficionados. And smoke, almost continuously. With many countries around the world now shunning smokers, Cuba, which has not enforced its own anti-smoking legislation, has become something of a haven. “We have been driven to special corners of the world,” says Hong Kong based cigar distributor David Tang. “Places where people still understand that smoking is not a sin.” Visitors to the festival spend much of the week touring the factories where the objects of their desires are rolled. For British designer and restaurateur Sir Terence Conran, coming to Cuba for the first time having smoked Cuban cigars almost every day for the last 43 of his 75 years, is like a pilgrimage. In the vast rolling room of H. Upmann, the air thick with the aroma of tobacco leaf, he recalls his first cigar. You’ve waited Long Enough “We opened the Habitat store in May 1964, and someone suggested that the best way to celebrate was with a Montecristo cigar.” I ask him if he has ever considered giving up. “No,” is his brusque reply. “Luckily I have a very sensible doctor who smokes cigars himself.” The festival is of course not just about smoking cigars. It has a serious business side. Behind closed doors, in the factories’ tasting rooms, retailers are thinking of ways to defend their livelihoods against anti-smoking legislation. They know that they will probably end up selling fewer cigars. One strategy is to go more upmarket. The week ends with an extravagant $500 a head final dinner, which this year was held in the cavernous ExpoCuba, near Havana’s Parque Lenin. Glancing around the several guests, it seemed quite clear that there are plenty of cigar smokers with plenty of money around the world. The dinner ends with an auction of hand-crafted humidors. The bids (which go towards Cuban health care) soar into the hundreds of thousands of dollars. This does not look like a business or a habit that is dying out. page 7 Produced by .com XVI Festival del Habano Program 2014 Palacio de las Convenciones (unless otherwise stated) Calle 146, e/ 11 y 13, Playa Thursday, February 27, 2014 Monday February 24, 2014 10.30am5pm Preliminary Habanosommelier International Competition. 2pm Trade Fair and Habanos Gallery opening 7pm Welcoming cocktail in tribute to the Hoyo de Monterrey and Partagás brands at Club Habana. Visit to tobacco plantations in Vuelta Abajo, Pinar del Río. Wednesday, February 26, 2014 9:45am10:30am Germans in Habanos. Origin of the H. Upmann brand, by Raúl Martell 11am12.15pm Master Class on cigar rolling technique Totalmente a Mano (Totally Handmade) 2:153:45pm Habanos in the cinema 4-5pm Alliance of Habanos with some of the world’s best and most exclusive beers, conducted by Belgian sommelier and beer expert Ben Vinken. 8pm Double Michelin-starred Dutch chef Ron Blaauw, alongside the famous sommelier Cuno Van’t Hoff. will delight guests in tribute to the Trinidad brand You’ve waited Long Enough Visit to Habanos factories La Corona and H.Upmann 2:303:30pm Habanos Vintage. Tasting of an aged Habano 3:304:30pm Vodka and Habanos 4:305:30pm The combination of Habanos with cocktails and cuisine Friday, February 28, 2014 Tuesday February 25, 2014 7am to 5pm 9am12pm page 9:3010:30am The Final of the Habanosommelier International Competition 11am12pm Elements that contribute to how a Habano burns. Contest to get the longest ash 12-1pm Awards ceremony 7pm5:30am Gala Evening Guests will be able to taste the first H. Upmann Reserva and attend the traditional Humidors Auction 8 Produced by .com A cigar aficionado’s guide to Havana By Amir Saarony Gardens of Hotel Nacional Photos by Yadira Montero La Casa del Habano, Partagás cigar factory Industria #520 e/ Dragones y Barcelona, behind the Capitolio While Partagás produced cigars on this street from 1848 to 2012, the factory has now been closed and relocated. La Casa del Habano, however, remains open and is a major destination for cigar smokers from the world over. This store is a historical marker in the story of Cuban cigars. Its manager is Grecia Quiñones Marrero and her extremely knowledgeable staff is led by Hamlet. Yes, that is his real name. And yes, he is the very same Hamlet who has gained worldwide recognition as a master cigar roller from the store at the old Romeo y Julieta factory. Casa del Habano, Hostal Conde de Villanueva Mercaderes #202, e/ Lamparilla y Amargura, Habana Vieja This building was built as the mansion of Claudio Martínez de Pinillos, Count of Villanueva, but it has been given a new life as a nine-room hotel. Every room and suite is named after a brand of cigars, but that is not what makes it a haven for smokers. As you enter the airy courtyard, on your right you will see a flight of stairs to the old servant quarters on the mezzanine; at the top of the stairs is a hidden gem: a Casa del Habano. This hidden wonder is managed by Antonio Hevia and staffed by one of the most sought after in-store rollers in the city, Reynaldo González. You’ve waited Long Enough page 9 Produced by .com La Casa del Habano, La Quinta Ave. 5ta #1407 e/ 14 y 16, Miramar This was the first high-end cigar store in Cuba when its doors opened in 1990. It is a smoker’s store. Outside of the regular tourist environment, it is quieter, but it is still a worthy destination in its own right. This is the place to take your time and truly take advantage of the expertise of the staff. The selection is large and the suburban setting allows you to slow down after the hectic pace of the city. Order a coffee or a drink from the bar, or even lunch from the adjoining restaurant, then relax in a wicker chair and enjoy a larger, longer smoke. La Casa del Habano, Club Habana Ave. 5ta e/ 188 y 192, reparto Flores This was the exclusive Biltmore Club prerevolution and, although it boasts tennis courts, gym, fine dining and a private beach, the real draw for cigar smokers is La Casa del Habano that was run by Enrique Mons. One of the living icons of the cigar world, Mons was in charge of quality for Cubatabaco (predecessor of Habanos S.A.) for almost 20 years. Now that he has retired, the staff works hard to maintain the level of excellence that he demanded. The comfortable lounge is a great place to sit, smoke and chat. La Casa de Habano, Hotel Habana Libre Calle L e/ 23 y 25, El Vedado This may very well be both the newest and the biggest LCDH in Havana. It is large, airy and well located in the lobby of the Hotel Habana Libre. The inventory is large and the staff, led by Elina Perez, is well trained. This space is large enough to have a fountain and fishpond in the store. It may be more comfortable to grab your cigar here and venture out into the Hotel Lobby to enjoy your cigar and a surprisingly good mojito or gin and tonic, or better yet, stroll across the street and treat yourself to a Coppelia ice cream. Other There are also wonderful La Casa del Habano in the Meliá Cohíba and the Meliá Habana hotels that offer wonderful smoking environments. The La Casa del Habano in the Hotel Nacional does not have a smoking lounge per se but, of course, the back patio of the Hotel Nacional is the prime oasis for cigar smoking in Havana at any time. You’ve waited Long Enough page 10 Produced by .com Amir Saarony Obsessive collector and historian of Cuban Cigar antiques. Publisher of Partagás El Libro. Writer, lecturer, designer. Toronto, Ontario, Canada http://www.facebook.com/pages/ Old-Cuban-Cigar-Stuff/286203887318 https://twitter.com/oldcubancigar Partagás El Libro An unparalleled look at the history of an icon, Partagás El Libro is a culmination of efforts from many of the world’s leading experts on the Cuban cigar and Cuban history. Over 200 pages of information and never before published images from the National Archives of Cuba, the archives of Partagás, the Tobacco Museum in Havana and private and public collections around the world. A must have for anyone interested in cigars and Cuba of the past. See http://www.oldcubancigarstuff.com/ You’ve waited Long Enough page 11 Produced by .com Searching for Pink Smoke The Cuban Western rides into Viñales Photo by Alex Mene Although Conducta, the most recent movie by filmmaker Ernesto Daranas (Los Dioses Rotos, 2008) is barely out, already the Cuban director has begun to prepare a new project. Different from his previous social dramas that basically take place in the neighborhoods of Old Havana, Daranas will now venture into a rural comedy in which he flirts with the codes of the Western genre. The locations chosen by Daranas for the story are several of the most beautiful Cuban landscapes. No wonder Viñales is a much sought after tourist destination, especially during the winter months when tobacco plantations appear in all their splendor giving a unique stamp to the world famous valley thanks to its steep-sided karst hills known as mogotes. Pink Smoke is the working title of this story set in the majestic Viñales Valley, a kind of tropical equivalent to Monument Valley, where several anthological westerns have been shot. Daranas has said that the project has only recently begun to take its first steps and that they are now in the preparation stage. But after the favorable reception of his first two films, it is not surprising that Cuban viewers are already impatient for Pink Smoke to hit the big screen. Pink Smoke owes its name to what triggers the plot: a tobacco plantation in Viñales has begun to produce a tobacco leaf of exquisite aroma and pink smoke that leads to a violent clash of interests. Ernesto Daranas, is one of Cuba’s best known film directors, whose film The Broken Gods, 2009 (Los dioses rotos) won widespread critical acclaim and several awards. Other moves he has directed include ¿La vida en rosa? (2004), Los últimos gaiteros de La Habana (2004) and most recently Conduct (2014). He is an important Cuban television and radio critic. You’ve waited Long Enough page 12 Produced by .com Photos by Lorena My big, new dysfunctional Harley family By Conner Gorry I sometimes muse on how similar Havana (my adopted city) is to New York (my birth city): the garbage and grit; taxi drivers with higher degrees; the self-contained neighborhoods – it all feels very familiar. Another characteristic both cities share is they teem with subcultures worthy of an urban anthropologist. Poets and punks, gym rats and drunks, shylocks, gamblers, sluts and thieves: here, like there, we’ve got the full spectrum of human passions, vice and interest crashing together like waves on the Malecón. This past weekend, I was thrust into one of Cuba’s most prismatic and emblematic subcultures and scenes: I rode along on the country’s first Harley rally, when over 50 riders made their way to Varadero on pre-1960 bikes from as far as Pinar del Río and Camagüey for three days in hog heaven. As you may imagine, my muse was working overtime in this new and captivating environment, populated by cool people with their own language and subtext. Since everything I know about biker culture I learned from Easy Rider and Altamont, I was keen to experience the 1ro Encuentro Nacional de Harlistas Cubanos firsthand. And I wasn’t disappointed. Al contrario: I was inspired and surprised. Because although as a group these folks cultivate and maintain an identity wholly dedicated to, nay obsessed with, Harley Davidson, they remain, al fondo, 100% Cubano. If you know Cuba from the inside, you know this subculture phenomenon – be it goth, gay, or black – hasn’t always fit in well or properly with the macro unity concept that is the glue for us here in one of the world’s last bastions of socialism. Of You’ve waited Long Enough course, when there’s USAID or other sovereigntycompromising dollars in the middle, peor todavía. Worse still with reason since I believe all human relations should be driven by mutual respect, regardless if it’s in the realm of sex, economics, culture or politics. In short: you don’t tell me how to live, work or play and I’ll return the favor. What was even more striking still was that on the whole, these Cuban bikers are more closely connected to their global counterparts and importantly, their US brethren, than any other community I’ve encountered here. As a group, they speak (almost) as much English as the slickest jineteros and what’s more, the main biker groups here – LAMA and Harlistas Cubanos – have foreign membership, long timers like me who live here and love bikes. And the mix works seamlessly because beyond the bikes, gear, and foreign presence, what grounds and unites these folks is their Cubanía, with all the idiosyncrasies good and bad that implies. Even before we rumbled out of Guanabacoa towards Varadero, the gossip was flying. And believe me: these Harley folks are more chismoso than a kitchenful of bored housewives. I learned all about Antonio’s marital strife; the petty divisions and squabbles among different riders and groups; and how Vladimir got his hog and Oscar lost his. Thanks to the gossip mill, I was privy to the anonymous alcoholic’s struggles and how much Fulano paid for the silicon tits and ass of his funny, sexy, back seat Betty. The grapevine was heavy with juicy fruit, but what impressed me the most was the handful of folks who didn’t gossip. Those page 13 Produced by .com relations on-island and off which these folks have in spades: what matters above all else is family. Blood, extended, new and departed. And it wasn’t only the adorable kids along for the ride (many in mini Harley gear), but how you know your back is covered when someone falls ill or that someone will lend a hand when you need a new part, mechanic, or lover and an ear when you’re down. As a group, the Harlistas Cubanos function as one big, complicated – dysfunctional at times, but happy all the same – family. United by their love for their bikes, the road, and their patria. are the ones to ponder further, I figure – above all because I abhor gossip as an entirely negative pursuit. With the anti-chismosos, I’d found my people. What also struck me as totally Cubano was the fury for everything with the Harley Davidson logo. I know brand loyalty is common to riders the world over, but Cubans can go overboard like nobody’s business – especially when it comes to logos and bling. And this was no different: there were boots, belts, shirts, jackets and vests, jewelry, headbands, bandanas, flags, stickers, and business cards all emblazoned with the Harley label. Boy, did I ever look out of place with my Hawaii-kine style, particularly when everyone was throwing devil horns and I’m waving the shaka. But while I may have looked out of place, not for a moment did I feel out of place – another sign you’re hanging with Cubans. If you know this place and manage well in Spanish, you know that there is no one who can make and appreciate a good joke like Cubans – especially when the joke’s on you. And these bikers are tremendous jokers – jodedores constantly dando cuero. No one is spared, least of all me, and these Harlistas ribbed me good-naturedly at every opportunity: about how I leaned into curves (not that well, apparently; ¡que pena!); about my addiction to roasted pork; and my penchant for hopping on the back of anyone’s motorcycle, anytime. I’m sure they have words in biker parlance for promiscuous back seat bitches like I was this weekend, but in my case, it ended with a forged love note that had everyone busting a gut. But at least I fared better than another foreigner who had his gold chain vicked by a muchacha ‘fren’ giving him a massage; he never heard the end of it. But what most drove home the Cubanía for me was that bedrock Cuban principle driving You’ve waited Long Enough Postcript: The 2013 event was even better than last – for many reasons but the fundamental one for me was what occurred in the months between rallies: I’m now collaborating with Max Cucchi on his photography book about Cuban Harley riders. Since the 2012 rally, I’ve been hearing all the stories, learning the history, and interviewing the clan. I’m also riding on the bikes; 12 of them to be precise and I anticipate trying out more. If you’re in Havana and want to experience what I’m talking about, stop by their weekly event at La Piragua (Malecón and Calle O, in the shadow of the Hotel Nacional), held every Saturday at 5pm. You just might get lucky and spot me in some colorful get up on the back of a hog, throwing a shaka to my new friends-cum-family. Conner Gorry is one of the most insightful writers about Cuba. Author of Here is Havana blog (http:// hereishavana.wordpress.com/), she also puts together the Havana Good Time iPad/Phone/Touch application http://itunes.apple.com/app/havanagood-time/id385663683?mt=8 (Android version) http://sutromedia.com/android/Havana_Good_ Time - essential guide to What’s On in Havana. page 14 Produced by .com Program - III Harley Davidson Rally, 2014 (Encuentro Harlista!) Sat Feb 1 4pm Press Conference in the Gato Tuerto night club ( facing the Piragua) Thur Feb 6 9am Departure for Varadero Fri Feb 7 10am Accreditation at Varadero Park 12 noon Motorcycle tour to place of interest - Ambrosio Cave Evening Concert with invited musical and rock groups Sat Feb 8 10am Varadero Park Competitions * Slowest bike * Straw in the bottle * Hotdog Obstacle courses * Fastest bike to start Prizes * Oldest bike Best restored bike (customized) * Best restored bike (original) * Bike that rode furthest to arrive at the event * Most popular bike 4.30pm Departure for official event photo at the Gaviota Marina Evening Concerts by invited musical and rock group at Varadero Amphitheater www.harlistascubanos.com As with the 2013 event, this rally is not organized by any specific motorcycle club, and all Harley Davidson owners in Cuba and abroad who wish to participate are invited, regardless of the club they belong to or the colors they wear. Registration Fee for visiting Harley riders is $30 CUC per rider and $25 CUC per companion. To coordinate advance accreditation, accommodation and transportation please contact Abel Pez - [email protected]/ (53-5) 264-4546 or Max Cucchi - (53-5) 263-1339 [email protected] Sun Feb 9 1:00 pm Farewell lunch Mon Feb10 Return back to Havana You’ve waited Long Enough page 15 Produced by .com Fábrica de Arte Cubano (F.A.C.) Calle 13 #61, esq. a calle 26. Vedado, (next to the Puente de Hierro. Open 6pm to 6am Opens February 13, 2014 Concerts planned Thurs Feb 13: X Alfonso Fri Feb 14: Silvio Rodríguez Sat Feb 15: Santiago Feliú Fábrica de Arte Cubano (F.A.C.) New Cultural Center Originally the headquarters for Havana’s electricity company from 1910 to 1030, then converted to an olive oil factory and fish warehouse, El Cocinero is perhaps an odd choice for Havana’s most ambitious new cultural project. Then again Battersea power station was converted to universal praise into the Tate Modern and the roof to the building is already the site for one of Havana’s best bars/restaurants (El Cocinero). alternative fashion shows. It also aims to carry out work with children and young people of the community known as El Fanguito, one of the poorest neighborhoods in the city. X Alfonso The Fábrica de Arte Cubano (F.A.C.), will open its doors on February 13, 2014 offering a full range of contemporary arts that includes music, visual arts, dance, film, theater, photography, literature, fashion, graphic design and architecture. Singer, composer and video maker X Alfonso, is the inspiration and driving force behind this project. F.A.C. will offer concerts on Friday and Saturday nights initially as well as art exhibitions, screenings of shorts and documentaries, and Entrance will be 50 Cuban Pesos for adults (Kids for Free) First floor Art gallery, Small performing arts space, library, bar. 500 people capacity Top Floor Photo gallery, visual arts, workshops 300 people capacity Top Floor Dance / Theatre / Film 300 people capacity Outside Concert space 600 people capacity For more information about Fábrica de Arte Cubano (F.A.C.) https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fábrica-de-Arte-Cubano/140518962687358 You’ve waited Long Enough page 16 Produced by .com Visual Arts Intaglios by Mario Sánchez Edificio de Arte Cubano. Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, Through March 2014 For the first time in Cuba, 30 intaglios (cut, carved and painted wood) by painter Mario Sánchez will be exhibited here. Mario Sánchez was lapelled by Folk Art Magazine the most important folk artist in the US during the 29th century. Born in Key West in 1908, of a Cuban father, Sánchez reflected in his scenes the everyday life and the human and spiritual diversity of that city, as well as and a profound humanistic view. Composed by pieces from private collections and from the Old Island Restoration Foundation, this exhibition is the first exchange between Cuban and American museums in over 50 years. Veinte años: luces y sombras Centro Hispano-Americano de Cultura Opens Feb 18, 5pm On the occasion of the 20th anniversary of the Conjunto de Música Antigua Ars Longa (Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble), 20 renowned cuban artists have gotten together to pay tribute to these musicians through their art: Diana Balboa, Orlando Barroso, Amelia Carballo, Roberto Chile, Nelson Domínguez, Roberto Fabelo, Flora Fong, Isavel Gimeno, Sandor González, Carlos Guzmán, Alicia Leal, Manuel López Oliva, Juan Moreira, Ileana Mulet, Pedro Pablo Oliva, Cosme Proenza, Zaida del Río, Ernesto Rancaño, Ángel Ramírez, José Rodríguez Fuster, Eduardo Roca (Choco), Raúl Santos Serpa, José Omar Torres, Julia Valdés, Lesbia Vent Dumois and José Villa Soberón. Dios los cría Factoría Habana Throughout February The exhibition aims to question the view of curators as the being that has to make critical judgments and differentiate what is good and bad. The artists of this group show are Adrián Fernández, Aimée García, Alfredo Ramos, Amilkar Feria, Arién Chang Castan, Cirenaica Moreira, Duniesky Martín, Eduardo Hernández, Eduardo Muñoz, Glenda León, Jenny Brito, José Ángel Toirac, Marta María Pérez Bravo, Pepe Menéndez, Raúl Cañibano, Reinier Nande, Reynier Leyva Novo and Rodney Batista. You’ve waited Long Enough page 17 Produced by .com Visual Arts Biblioteca Pública Rubén Martínez Villena Opens Feb 13 Galería Espacio Abierto Opening of the exhibition El alma desnuda by Ernesto García Peña, whose drawings and paintings confirm the artist’s mastery of brushstrokes, the use of light and transparency. Centro Provincial de Artes Plásticas y Diseño Lo disperso también cumple un objetivo, exhibition by Alejandro García. Through Feb 14 In La píldora de la felicidad, artist Claudia Corrales uses photographs, installations and audiovisuals to tackle the topic of the obsession with having a perfect figure and of certain beauty canons, all induced through and sustained by the market. Niño con trauma mira al cielo y sonríe marks the return of artist Pedro Pablo Bacallao to pictorial art to gauge the situation of his surroundings and provoke and seduce the viewer. Galería Habana same name will tackle different forms of expression within Cuban contemporary painting. The first show will include the work of artists Douglas Argüelles, Enrique Baster, Roberto Diago, Carlos Quintana, Maykel Linares, Yornel Martínez and Rigoberto Mena. Galería del hotel Ambos Mundos Through Feb 12 Throughout A huge “thinker” (which alludes February to Rodin’s famous sculpture) in dialogue with Cuban reality, along with other installations and drawings by Alexis Leyva (Kcho) are on exhibition at this new studio/laboratory in the marginal neighborhood of Romerillo in the outskirts of Havana. The project is sponsored by the artist and the admission is free. Throughout Paisaje 3600 is tye name of February the exhibition by young artist Elizabeth Cerviño, who uses painting, installation, photography and performance, along with linen, silk, sand and water to express her style, which come very close abstract art sustained by Oriental philosophy. Throughout Posada, perfil de una época, an February exhibition in tribute to José Luis Posada (1929-2002), includes 70 pieces inb various techniques by this excellent Spanish drafter and caricaturist who carried out a prolific work in Cuba, especially in printed periodicals. Palacio de Lombillo Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Edificio de Arte Internacional Throughout El arte de la luz is a show of February 53 pieces by one of the most Seisdedos en Cuba, by Spanish artist Juan Manuel Seisdedos, exhibits gestural painting, of random and emotive brush strokes, akin to psychic automatism of early surrealist artists waited Long Enough Lo que sucede conviene is a group exhibition of important pieces that deal with false memories by Cuban contemporary artists Eduardo Ponjuán—who recently received the National Award for Visual Arts—José A. Toirac, Levi Orta, Celia & Yunior, Carlos Garaicoa, Lázaro Saavedra and Reynier Leyva Novo. Galería Villa Manuela Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Edificio de Arte Cubano You’ve El paso de la conciencia, an exhibition by the young artist Lázaro Nelson Céspedes. Through Feb 25 Galería Servando Kcho Estudio Romerillo. Laboratorio para el Arte Through Feb 16 In Encuentro de viajes¸ the group Espacio Azul explores different ways to perceive reality both what is far away and extremely vast and the micro world. Throughout Pintura fresca is the first show February from a series that under the Through Feb 14 Through Feb 14 Therough Feb 7 page 18 significant European artists today, Marie-Antoinette Courtens from Holland. This exhibition retifies the opinion of the well-known art critic Dieter Paul Mahlow: “For Marie-Antoninette Courtens, art is the light thatcontinues to bloom in the gardenns of the human spirit. Produced by .com Galeria Galiano Through February 2014 Stainless vs. The Merger. art Exhibition Chaos isn´t a pit; chaos is a ladder. Many of the people who try to climb it fail, never getting to try again. The fall breaks them. And some are given the chance but they refuse, they cling to the realm, or the gods, or love. Illusions. Only the ladder is real. The climb is all there is. Littlefinger, Game of Thrones Season 3, Episode 6 The symmetry of chaos The popular TV children’s series Art Attack has become a learning niche for Cuban viewers in recent years. Thanks to its easy-to-follow art, a number of children have managed to create visually attractive art pieces. In the exhibition The Symmetry of Chaos, the creative groups Stainless and The Merger have adopted a similar teaching attitude. Today, these guys want to teach us “how to make art.” These groups will use anything—stainless steel, Carrara marble, silicone, resin, PVC, aluminum foil, quartz or monolayer paints. They take full advantage of their plastic qualities and shape them to the taste of each inquisitive viewer. Their themes are just as wide ranging. They have tackled the subversion of power in Los tiempos cambian (Times Change), supposed success in Laureados (Prizewinners), and the re-adaptation of great stories in ¿Qué es lo más pesado, héroes? (What’s Carries More Weight, Heroes?). Clearly, their discourses are not restricted to national interpretations. These groups have transformed the Galiano Gallery in a mixed, chaotic setting, in which the viewer is “hit” by different shapes, colors, textures; a setting in which—and they have given fair warning—art attacks. ROM & GGA Havana, January 2014 You’ve waited Long Enough page 19 Produced by .com photography Imagining Cuba Fototeca de Cuba Through February 10 Photographers Dario de Dominicis. Gianni Gosdan, Umberto Sommaruga (Italy); Ernesto Javier Fernándea, Liudmila y Nelson, Antonio Gómes Margolles, René Peña, Alejandro González (Cuba); Sandro Miller and Julieve Jubin (US) give their own view of Cuba, more documentary in the case of international photographers, and more intimate and conceptual for the Cubans. Miradas reveladoras Pabellón Cuba Through February 17 Revealing photographs taken by Cuba master photographers: José Agraz, Raúl Corrales, Alberto Díaz (Korda), Ernesto Fernández, Liborio Noval, Luis Pierce, Perfecto Romero, Osvaldo and Roberto Salas. Photographs of Juana Bacallao Centro de Arte Contemporáneo Wifredo, Lam Through February 10 Photographer Teresa Correa exhibits 10 photographs of Cuban singer Juana Bacallao, who is more interesting as a social phenomenon than musically speaking. Escapes soñados Centro Provincial de Artes Plásticas y Diseño Through February 15 Photographs by Reiko Imoto from Japan. You’ve waited Long Enough page 20 Produced by .com Dance La magia de la danza Sala Avellaneda Feb 7 & 8, 8pm; Feb 9, 5pm Concert program by the Ballet Nacional de Cuba with La magia de la danza, an anthology of great moments of 19th-century choreographies in versions by Alicia Alonso, including Giselle, The Sleeping Beauty, The Nutcracker, Coppelia, Don Quixote, Swan Lake and The Gottschalk Symphony, the latter an example of the most recent Cuban choreography that shows the possibilities of classical dance with the Cuban identifying nature. Danzando Sueños Ballet Español de Cuba, Fri Feb 21, 28 & Sat 22, 8:30pm & Sun Feb 23, 5pm Sala Avellaneda, Teatro Nacional Season of the Spanish Ballet of Cuba with the performance of Danzando sueños, a tribute to Wifredo Lam. The ballet, which is structured in three scenes according to the three first creative periods of this great Cuban painter, allows audiences to admire how this company has been able to combine Spanish dance with elements from other cultures, in this case, Afro-Cuban folklore. My Dream China Disabled People’s Performing Art Troupe, Sala Avellaneda. Teatro China Disabled People’s Performing Art Troupe was founded in 1987…the Performing Troupe bears the dreams of people with disabilities and creates a special art which delights audiences, purifies the soul with Truth, Honesty and Virtue... they were referred to as “A Special Art Star of Mankind and Image Ambassadors for 600 Million People with Disabilities in the World” by the Disabled People’s International 6th World Assembly. There are 110 disabled performers and 37 staff member. You’ve waited Long Enough page 21 Produced by .com MUSIC X Alfonso is performing at Fábrica de Arte Cubano (F.A.C.) on February 13, 2014 modern Fusion & Electronic The contemporary fusion and electronic music scene has expanded recently as new bars and clubs have opened party promoters have organized events in parks and public spaces. For more information about the best bars and clubs see our Havana Guide section. Wednesday nights has recently seen Interactivo playing at Bertolt Brecht – brilliant group and great venue (starts late!). The Sunday afternoon Máquina de la Melancolía - Frank Delgado and Luis Alberto García (5-9pm) at El Sauce has a large following. Look out this month for Habana Abierta performing in various locales. Don’t miss them! In Havana’s burgeoning entertainment district along First Avenue from the Karl Marx theatre to the aquarium you are spoilt for choice with the always popular Don Cangreco featuring good live music (Kelvis Ochoas and David Torrens alternate Fridays), Las Piedras (insanely busy from 3am) and El Palio and Melem bar – both featuring different singers and acts in smaller more intimate venues. Our current favourite is Kpricho (#110, Calle 94 entre 1ra y 3ra Miramar). This is ultra modern and uber cool with a great DJ playing at weekends. This is where the cool cats will find their way to. Tribute to Juan Blanco Sala Manuel Galich. Casa de las Américas, Feb 5, 4pm Concert with the National Laboratory of Electroacoustic Music on the occasion on the 50th anniversary of the first performance of electroacoustic music in Cuba and a tribute to Juan Blanco, pioneer of this type of music. Guest musicians include DJ Productor, D´Joy de Cuba, Nacional Electrónica and Ensamble de Haskell Armenteros. You’ve waited Long Enough page 22 Produced by .com MUSIC modern Fusion & Electronic Café Cantante Mi Habana. Teatro Nacional Casa de la Música de Miramar Wednesdays Performances by Qva Libre Mondays 5 pm 5 pm Fridays Performances by Isis Flores 5 pm Feb 11 Habana Abierta 5 pm Performances by El Micha Centro Cultural Fresa y Chocolate Mondays 10: 30pm Wichy D´Vedado, one of the most famous DJs in Havana, who plays the best of world music. Café Concert El Sauce Sundays 5 pm Trovador Frank Delgado and the well-known actor Luis Alberto García, who on this occasion is a DJ, offer a selection of pop, rock, Cuban alternative music, singersongwriters and audiovisuals. Salón Rojo (hotel Capri) Feb 2 Performance by Baby Lores. 11 pm Fábrica de Arte Cubano (F.A.C.) Opening of the new Fábrica de Arte with the special performance of its mastermind X Alfonso. Feb 13 6 pm Teatro Karl Marx Concert by Descemer Bueno. Feb 1 & 2 8:30 pm Electronic Music Festival at the Abreu Fontán Social Center, 2013 Photo by Alex Mene You’ve waited Long Enough page 23 Produced by .com Photos by Alex Mene Habana Abierta – urban legand, at Café Cantante Mi Habana “que rico suena un rocanrol con timba” [Vanito Brown, Habana Abierta] “¡Habana Abierta te lo trae de pinga!” [Cuban Fans] Some things can’t, or at least probably shouldn’t be translated. Lets just say that Habana Abierta fucking rocked at Café Cantante last week in a somewhat surprising Tuesday night appearance. To have Vanito, Medina, Barber, Gutiérrez and Nan San Fong – accompanied by Anton Perugorría (drums) and Julio César González Ochoa (bass) playing Bride of Superman in a concert costing 100 Cuban pesos was as nostalgic for another time as it was brilliantly entertaining. To set in context Habana Abierta emerged in the early 90s and had become something of a Havana urban legend - known through a handful of albums and with so few appearances that the last major concert in 2003 in La Tropical becomes legendary. It was not so much that the group split up (although of course Kelvis Ochoa did leave for his solo career as did Boris Larramendi but that they simply disappeared from the scene. Extensive touring in Spain in the late 1990s, a couple of albumns and then nothing… The origins of Habana Abierta go back to a personal project of music duo Gema y Pável. The key members of the group are: Vanito Brown: Chronicler of personal issues, a versatile songwriter. The scale of his work ranges from a contemporary rock ballad to the most traditional of Cuban music. Alejandro Gutiérrez: A modern-day bolerista, with Filin (feeling) and urban song influences of the continental south. Luis Alberto Barbería: The resonance of his voice and guitar work takes on Afro-Cuban rhythms. His melodies are lyrical with jazz influences. Jose Luis Medina: Refined pop successfully blended with son, guajira and guaracha, able to come up with the barest social criticism or the most conciliatory ballad. For now Habana Abierta will alternate with David Torrens & Kelvis Ochoa at Café Cantante on Tuesday evenings. For now Habana Abierta will alternate with David Torrens & Kelvis Ochoa at Café Cantante on Tuesday evenings. Doors open 5pm performance from 9pm. You’ve waited Long Enough page 24 Produced by .com MUSIC Salsa / Timba Alexander Abreu at Casa de la Música de Galiano. Photo by Alexander Mene Casa de la Música de Galiano Casa de la Música de Miramar Tuesday 5 pm El Noro y Primera Clase Monday 11 pm Sur Caribe Thursday 5 pm Pupy y los que Son Son Thursday 11 pm 11 pm Charanga Latina. Alexander Abreu y Havana de Primera Saturday 11 pm Pupy y los que Son Son 5 pm PMM en Discotemba Sunday 5 pm Bamboleo 11 pm Chispa y los Cómplices Sunday Diablo Tun Tun Thursdays José Luis Cortés y NG La Banda 11 pm Café Cantante Mi Habana Monday El Jelengue de Areíto Tuesdays 11 pm Thursdays Septeto Habanero (traditional music) Manana Club 11 pm Friday El Noro y Primera Clase 11 pm Guaracheros (traditional music) 11 pm Rumberos de Cuba (rumba) Fridays 11 pm Sundays Timbalaye (rumba) 11 pm You’ve waited Long Enough page 25 Produced by .com 1st Havana World Music Festival, February 7-8, 2014 Eme Alfonso performing with Síntesis, 2013 Photos by Alex Mene Círculo Social José Antonio Echeverría Calle 12 esquina a Calzada, Vedado Havana World Music Festival Organized by a nonprofit group led by young Cuban singer and composer Eme Alfonso, the 1st Havana World Music Festival (February 7-8, 2014) seeks to open a window from Cuba onto the world and from the world onto Cuba. “The focus of HWM is to give the Cuban people the chance to become acquainted with the musical diversity of Cuba and the world, as well as to encourage exchanges among international and Cuban bands. This can be very beneficial to the musicians, producers and musical promoters in our country.” Eme Alfonso The festival revolves on different genres and styles that work from the roots but aim to reach a wide audience. Therefore, alternative music, which merges popular genres like rock, reggae, salsa or electronic music, is predominant in Havana World Music. The HWM program is rounded off by folk groups that participated in Eme Alfonso’s Para Mestizar Project, a documentary music video that shows the cultural heritage of Cuba. You’ve waited Long Enough page 26 Produced by .com Friday 7 Saturday 8 La cinta de Baraguá, Thea Hjelmeland Sociedad Artística Gallega, M Alfonso, (Norway), Déjá-vu , Auntie Flo (UK), LA William Vivanco, SINTESIS, Fuel MAKINA DEL KARIBE (Colombia) y X Fandango (Spain) y Los Van Van. Alfonso. Place: Círculo Social Jose Antonio Echeverría, Vedado, La Habana, Cuba.” La Mákina del Karibe (Colombia) Fuel Fandango (Spain) Electronic elements. pop-rock with vocal flamenco Brings a fresh and lighthearted outlook on music with roots in Colombian popular music DJ Auntie Flo (UK) Thea Hjelmeland (Norway) Will perform with live percussion by South African musician and DJ Esa Williams. Will be accompanied by Cuban musicians Jorge Luis Lagarza, Abel González Gómez and Barbarito Torres Delgado, looking to give a Cuban sonority to her characteristic music. Síntesis Los Van Van Going strong for 35 straight years. Received Recently received the WOMEX (World Music both national and international acclaim for EXpo) award in 2013 for their achievement in their fusion of Afro-Cuban rhythms with other the international music industry. styles, mainly rock. William Vivanco Eme Alfonso (X Alfonso’sister) whose music stands out for its Evolving from his funkier tunes to a music that sophisticated mix of Cuban rhythms with soul is more rhythmic and traditional, in the style of his native town Santiago de Cuba and jazz Cuban electronic scene Déjà Vu Fusion of reggae with other musical styles. DJ Yoyván Guerra, Djoy de Cuba, and the young duo Pauza will also be performing during the festival. X Alfonso Son of Síntesis band leaders Carlos Alfonso and Ele Valdés—whose music has always revolved around roots and exploration. You’ve waited Long Enough page 27 Produced by .com MUSIC JAZZ Privé Lounge Sundays from 10:30pm Combines comfort, quality music, and a chill atmosphere brilliantly. It’s snug – the stage accommodates a trio comfortably, a quartet if the musicians squeeze in a lo cubano – but design elements like drop down noise- and echo-dampening panels mean it has terrific audio Sunday night is jazz night and provides the perfect mellow end to the weekend. Musicans play from 10.30pm Café Jazz Miramar(Cine Miramar) Forget about smoke filled lounges, this is clean, bright – take the fags outside. While it is difficult to get the exact schedule and in any case expect a high level of improvisation when it is good it is very good.. La Zorra y el Cuervo Feb 1 Jazz Café Feb 7, 14 & 21 Michel Herrera (saxophonist and composer) 10 pm Feb 2 Lázaro Valdés (pianist) y Son Jazz Feb 3 Harold López-Nussa (pianist and composer) Feb 4 Denys Carbó (saxophonist) and Balance Feb 5 Emilio Morales (pianist and composer) and Los Nuevos Amigos Feb 8, 16, 22 & 27 Michel Herrera (sax player and 10:30 pm Yissy García (percussionist and composer) y su grupo Feb 7 Oscar Valdés (percussionist and singer) and Diákara Yasek Manzano (trumpet player) and his group Feb 9 Teclas Habana Feb 10 Yadasny Portillo (pianist and composer) y grupo Cauce Feb 11 Jesús Fuentes (saxophonist and composer) y Santo Tomás Conection Feb 12 Alexis Bosch (pianista y Proyecto Jazz Cubano Feb 13 Roberto Fonseca (pianist and composer) y grupo Temperamento Feb 14 Bellita Expósito (pianist and composer) y grupo Jazztumbatá Feb 17 Grupo Canela You’ve waited Long Enough composer). UNEAC Peña La Esquina del Jazz hosted by showman Bobby Carcassés. Feb 13 2 pm Feb 6 Feb 8, 15 Emilio Morales (pianist and composer) and Los Nuevos Amigos. Somavilla (15 y H, El Vedado) Feb 1, 8, 15 & 22 8:30 pm page 28 Zule Guerra (singer and composer) and Blues d’Havana. (Admission free) Produced by .com MUSIC Bolero, Folkloric, Son & Trova Silvio Rodríguez in Concert Fábrica de Arte Cubano (F. A. C.) Feb 14 Concert by singer-songwriter Silvio Rodríguez, one of the greats of New Cuban Trova and founder of this movement back in 1he 1960s. Pancho Amat Museo Nacional de la Música Feb 20, 5pm In some ways Pancho Amat is an unlikely hero. He is a spontaneous and unaffected man who conveys wisdom in an open and frank manner. A guajiro in the best sense of the word. His great love is the Cuban Tres, which is part of Cuba’s most important musical heritage. Over the course of several decades he is the musician who has most contributed to universalize the tres through recordings or live performances with musicians from Cuba and other countries, such as Joaquin Sabina, Oscar D’Leon, Pablo Milanés, Rosana, Ry Cooder, Silvio Rodríguez, Victor Victor, Yomo Toro and Victor Jara. READ MORE Santiago Feliú.in Concert Fábrica de Arte Cubano (F.A.C.) Calle 13 #61, esq. a calle 26. Vedado. Concert by singer-songwriter Santiago Feliú, one of the most important Cuban singer-songwriters who has preserved the troubadour spirit with contemporary sounds. You’ve waited Long Enough page 29 Produced by .com MUSIC Bolero, Folkloric, Son & Trova Asociación Yoruba de Cuba Casa del Alba Folkloric group Obiní Batá. Fridays With his beautiful and powerful voice, Eduardo Sosa and guests perform highlights of the best Cuban trova of all time. Feb 7 8 pm 7 pm Saturdays Folkloric group Los Ibellis. 4 pm Feb 27 Peña El Canto de Todos, with singer-songwriter Vicente Feliú, one of the founding members of Cuban Nueva Trova. 6 pm Cabaret Las Vegas Saturdays 4 pm Performance by the folkloric group Yoruba Andabo. Casa de la Música de Miramar Tuesdays 5 pm Café Cantante, Teatro Nacional Thursdays Elaín Morales. 5 pm Saturdays 6 pm Waldo Mendoza, one of Cuba’s most popular singers today. Centro Cultural Fresa y Chocolate Saturdays 9 pm Café Concert Adagio Thursdays 10 pm Cantautores, live performances and videos of the most important national and international singers of author’s song in the past 50 years. Maylú - , whose repertoire goes from arias of famous operas to Cuban, Latin American and international pop hits. Yeni Sotolongo, a young singer who boasts an exceptional voice and varied repertoire. Centro Cultural Pablo de la Torriente Brau A Guitarra Limpia is a meeting with trovadores accompanied only by their guitars. Feb 22 5 pm Café Concert El Sauce Singer-songwriter Frank Delgado with his ironic view of society. Fridays 10 pm Centro Iberoamericano de la Décima Performance by the duet Ad Libitum. Feb 8 3 pm Feb 23 Café Teatro Bertolt Brecht A bolero puro, show with the performances of singer Rafael Espín and guests La Mezcla Perfecta, Churrisco (comedian), songstresses Vania Borges and Maureen García, the group Parada 8 and Cirabana Circus. Feb 22 5 pm El Jardín de la Gorda with the performances of trovadores from every generation. 5 pm Hotel Telégrafo Fridays 9:30 pm Casa de África Feb 1 Rock/folkloric band Síntesis 3 pm Feb 8, Folkloric group Obiní Batá 3 pm Casa de la Cultura Comunitaria Mirta Aguirre Feb 23 5 pm Get-together with trovador Ireno García. You’ve waited Long Enough An informal meeting with the versatile contralto Ivette Cepeda, who has been much celebrated thanks to the subtleties she brings to her voice and her wide repertory of Cuban and international music. Hurón Azul, UNEAC Mundito González is one of the most popular Cuban bolero singers. Feb 8 10 pm Piano bar Tun Tun Thursdays Peña with trovador Ray Fernández. 5 pm page 30 Produced by .com Feb 15-26, 2014 Festival de Música Antigua Esteban Salas Dedicated to commemorate the anniversary of the death of the first Cuban musician of whom there is record of printed scores, every year the Esteban Salas Early Music Festival gathers outstanding performers of Medieval, Renaissance and Baroque music who perform in Old Havana headed by the Ars Longa Music Ensemble. This festival has made it possible for audiences to enjoy for the first time in Cuba important pieces of the universal repertory, such as the madrigalian comedy “Festino” by the Italian composer Adriano Banchieri and Handel’s “Messiah.” 2014 marks the 10th Anniversary of this festival and this year there will be events in each of the first seven towns established in Cuba. Program 2014, Concerts Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís Gulumbá Gulumbé: The sounds of Africa in the new World. Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble Feb 15 6 pm Musical Jewels of the Late Baroque. Flutist Claudia Gerauer, organist Stefan Baier and soloists from the Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble Feb 22 6 pm Iglesia de Paula Bipolar: Pieces from the Baroque and the 20th century (Bach, Hindemith and Crumb). Cellist Alejandro Martínez and soloists from the Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble Feb 16 7 pm Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís ...para dos...: German and French music for the recorder. Claudia Gerauer (Germany) and Martina Joos (Switzerland). Feb 20 6 pm Iglesia de Paula Feb 21 7 pm Iglesia de Paula Organ Musical Heritage, German Repertoire from the 19th and 29th Centuries. Organist Moisés Santiesteban from Cuba Feb 23 7 pm Iglesia de Paula The Harpsichord, Luxury in 17th- and 18th-Century European Courts. Kathleen McIntosh (USA) on the harpsichord and the Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble Feb 27 7 pm Iglesia de Paula Organ Music from the South of Germany in the 17th Century. Organist Stefan Baier from Germany You’ve waited Long Enough Feb 28 7 pm page 31 German Musical Art of the 17th Century. Martin Rost (Germany on the organ and the Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble Produced by .com Master Classes Edificio Santo Domingo (Obispo e/ San Ignacio y Mercaderes): Feb 18-21 9 am Flauta dulce (The Recorder), by Claudia Gerauer from Germany and Martina Joos from Switzerland who will lecture on the German repertuire for recorder quartets in the 17th and 18th centuries. Iglesia de Paula Feb 18-21 9 am Iglesia de Paula Órgano for students of the organ, by German organist por Martin Rost. Feb 22 6 pm Iglesia de Paula Feb 23 7 pm Órgano for students of the organ, by German organist Stefan Baier. Clavecín (Harpsichord) for students of the Baroque orchestra of the National School of Music by Kathleen McIntosh from the US Lectures and Workshops Taller de Luthería, Plaza Vieja Feb 17 2 pm Renovating the figure of Luthiers. For luthiers and luthier students and students of the Predoctoral Degree in Hispanic Musical Heritage. Edificio Santo Domingo Feb 18 2 pm Reading Tablatures for the Lute by Costa Rican musicologist and lute player Tania Marcela Vicente León. For students of the string workshop of the National School of Music and students of the Predoctoral Degree in Hispanic Musical Heritage. Edificio Santo Domingo Feb 19 2 pm You’ve waited Long Enough page 32 “Entre crucifijos y cantos”, by Tania Marcela Vicente León, for the general public and students of the Predoctoral Degree in Hispanic Musical Heritage. Produced by .com MUSIC classical Photo by Ivan Soca Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís Concert by the Nuestro Tiempo Orchestra conducted by Enrique Pérez Mesa. Feb 1 6 pm Feb 14 6 pm Concert dedicated to love by the Camerata Romeu conducted by Zenaida Romeu. Biblioteca Nacional José Martí Saturdays Performances by soloists and chamber ensembles. 5 pm Casa del ALBA Cultural En Confluencia, conducted by guitarists Eduardo and Galy Martín. Feb 2 5 pm Feb 9 Tarde de Concierto, conducted by the soprano Lucy Provedo. 3 pm Feb 16 5 pm Feb 23 De Nuestra América, conducted by pianist Alicia Perea. Concert by guitarist Rosa Matos. 5 pm Centro Hispano Americano de Cultura Performance by the guitar orchestra Sonantas Habaneras conducted by Jesús Ortega. Feb 8 5 pm Sala Covarrubias, Teatro Nacional Sundays Concerts with the Orquesta Sinfónica Nacional. 11 pm You’ve waited Long Enough page 33 Produced by .com MUSIC classical Oratorio San Felipe Neri Special chorus concert by the Coro Nacional de Cuba conducted by Digna Guerra. Feb 1 4 pm 7 pm Iglesia de Paula 6 pm 7 pm International workshop sponsored by the cultural project European Classical Music in the Social Context of Old Havana. Feb 3 11 Feb 12 Feb 4 Internationally acclaimed French musicians, violist Gerard Caussé and violinist Renaud Capuçon, will give a concert with the accompaniment of the ISA Symphony Orchestra, of the Lyceum Mozartiano de La Habana. Sala Gonzalo Roig. Palacio del Teatro Lírico Nacional Concert by cellist Udi BarDavid from the Philadelphia Philharmonic Orchestra. jan 23 5 pm Cuerda Dominical with guitarist Luis Manuel Molina. Sala Ignacio Cervantes Feb 2 6 pm Feb 9 6 pm The duet D’Accord, made up by Marita Rodríguez (piano) and Vicente Monterrey (clarinet), with guest musician Ailet Roque (clarinet) will offer the concert Un febrero romántico (Romantic February) with pieces by Robert Schumann and Max Bruch. Feb 14 6 pm The Cuban pianist Leonardo Gell and Costa Rican sax player Sofía Zumbado have announced a program of works by Latin American composers Marvin Camacho andy Jesús Bonilla (Costa Rica), Gabriela Ortiz (Mexico), Julián de la Chica (Colombia), Andrés Alén (Cuba) and Astor Piazzolla (Argentina). You’ve waited Long Enough Feb 16 6 pm page 34 Golden performance by pianists Ulises Hernández and Rolando Luna along with singer Miriam Ramos in the concert Danzas para piano y canciones cubanas, with musical compositions by Ernesto Lecuona, Ignacio Cervantes, Argeliers León and Gisela Hernández, among other composers. The Camerarpa project, conducted by Mirtha Batista, will present Anabel Gutiérrez Orraca (harp) and Ivonne Rubio Padrón (violin), who wiill play works by Spohr, Saint-Saëns, Tedeschi and Sarasate. Produced by .com II Encuentro de Guitarras Identidades-2014 February 5-9, 2014 The 2nd Guitar Identities Meeting-2014 is sponsored by the Music Association of the Union of Writers and Artists of Cuba (UNEAC), Casa del ALBA Cultural de La Habana and Casa de las Américas. Program 2014, Concerts Casa de la Cultura de Plaza Feb 5 10 am Casa de la Cultura de Plaza Opening by basic-level Cuban students of guitar, tres and lute Feb 7 6 pm Sala Villena (UNEAC) Feb 5 6 pm Feb 6 6 pm Performances by Gilson Antúnez from Brazil, and Magela Oquendo, Martín Pedreira, Omar Kessel, the duo Con-trastes adn the trio Amanecer from Cuba Feb 8 Performances by Edwin Guevara (Colombia) and Freddy Pérez, Rosa Matos, Anolan González andthe Orquesta Juvenil de Guitarra (Cuba) Casa del ALBA Cultural de La Habana Casa de la Cultura de Plaza Feb 7 Basílica Menor del Convento de San Francisco de Asís 6 pm Performances by Susana Frade, Carlos Ernesto Varona, Mabel González, Yalit González, Ricardo González, Emilio Padrón and the duo Espiral. Performances by Fabiano Borges (Brazil), and Ahmed Dickinson, Sonantas Habaneras Orchestra and Música Eterna Orchestra with soloists Galy and Eduardo Martín (Cuba). Feb 9 5 pm Concert by young guitarists 3 pm Closing concert with José Luis Lara (Venezuela) and Ana Lillian Báez, Ariadna Cuéllar, Luís Manuel Molina, the duo Concuerdas and the trio Alter Ego (Cuba) Lectures and Master Classes Casa de la Cultura de Plaza Feb 6 10 am Casa de la Cultura de Plaza “Genres and styles of Brazilian and South American guitar: important contribution to classical guitar” by Fabiano Borges (Brazil). Feb 7 Martín Pedreira (Cuba). 10 am Casa del ALBA Cultural de La Habana Feb 8 Ahmed Dickinson (Cuba). 10 am You’ve waited Long Enough page 35 Produced by .com Photos by Alex Mene Feb 13-23 2014 Brutal Fest’s 2014 Winter Festival A festival that insists on letting the world know that Cuban music is not only salsa and reggaeton, but also has a heavy metal tradition with enthusiastic fans Organized by Brutal Beatdown Records with the collaboration of Agencia Cubana de Rock, Brutal Fest is the first and most important international extreme music fest in Cuba. It takes place twice a year in Cuba: Brutal Winter Fest (February) and Brutal Summer Fest (August). The Brutal Winter Fest will be dedicated to Canadian Trigger Effect vocalist Nick Babeu, who passed away in November, 2013. The lineup includes The Prestige (France); Chariots of the Gods (Canada); Meltdown, No Sun in San Francisco and Algebra (Switzerland), and Combat Noise, Darkness Fall, Switch, Arrabio, Tragedy, Zeus and Espoleta (Cuba). As usual, the Fest will travel to other cities around Cuba: Feb 13 : Santa Clara Feb 15 : Holguín Feb 16 : Santiago de Cuba Feb 18 : Camagüey Feb 19 : Trinidad Feb 21 & 22 : La Habana Feb 23 : Artemisa The Brutal Summer Fest is slated for August 13 to 23 2014 You’ve waited Long Enough page 36 Produced by .com Theatre Antigonón, un contingente épico Performed by Teatro El Publico Fri & Sat, 8:30pm; Sun, 5pmTeatro TriCarlos anón Diaz and his troupe, Teatro el Publico’s most recent performance involved a trip back to the classics, guided and partnered by Rogelio Orizondo who wrote Antigonón, un contingente épico especially for them. Carlos is the most wellknown and brilliant Cuban theatre director with a reputation for directing plays with abundant nudity, transvestites and subtle winks at the Cuban national reality. Antigóne does not dissapoint – go see it for youself! Semen Performed by El Portazo Fri & Sat, 8:30pm; Sun, 5:30pm. El Portazo, a theater company from Matanzas Province, presents the play Semen written by playwright Yunior García and directed by Pedro Franco. The play brings up controversial topics in Cuban society: double standards, homosexuality, prostitution, incest, lack of social commitment, drug addiction, the utopia of the new man…in a production with a hint of the absurd, but with an energy that is unusual on the Cuban stage and which involves the audience II Festival del Monólogo Cubano Teatro Tomás Terry (Cienfuegos) with other venues in Havana and February 12 to 16, 2014 Villa Clara Sponsored by the Tomas Terry Theatre in Cienfuegos, this Monologue Festival was launched in 2003 with the aim of validating a genre, which by nature demands intense commitment of playwrights as well as actors. Despite being one of the newer events in the domestic cultural scene, this festival has already achieved a standing in the Cuban stage, and at present the most renowned Cuban playwrights, directors, actors and actresses compete in the beautiful Terry Theatre. You’ve waited Long Enough page 37 Produced by .com Theatre Centro Cultural Bertolt Brecht. Sala Tito Junco Fri & Sat 8 pm Carne de perros by Cuban playwright Edgar Estaco, produced by Teatro del Círculo and directed by Pedro Ángel Vera, with actors Nataly Reyes, Argelio Sosa and Juan Carlos Ayón 8:30 pm sun 5:30 pm 4 pm Directed by Alejandro Palomino, Vital Teatro presents the monologue Vena de Mar, written by Adriana Quesada and performed by Enrique Bueno. The playwright and critic Amado del Pino has said that “the author has the flair to find new angles to topics that could bore us with the way they are treated. The sexuality of the character and his professional ambitions are less important in the play than the domain of affections and the lucid look into this century’s Cuba.” Opens Feb 19 8:30 pm Centro Cultural Bertolt Brecht. Sala Tito Junco Sat 8:30 pm Presentation of the solo show María Woyzeck, created and performed by the Uruguayan actress Raquel Diana. It is codirected by Diana and Gonzalo Morales Colman. Feb 11 Teatro Raquel Revuelta Centro Cultural Bertolt Brecht. Sala Tito Junco Fri & Sat Sala Manuel Galich. Casa de las Américas Teatro D’Dos reruns the successful La edad de la ciruela by Argentinian-Ecuadorian playwright Arístides Vargas. The critic and playwright Nara Mansur has defined the play as “Two actresses, two themes. Woman and family. Deaf, travellers, rebels, aunts, grandmothers, mothers… in another obvious sign of our times—travel, self-recognition, theatre turned immigrant body, loneliness and stereotype.” Two characters share their infancies with the audiences, revealing natures and truths that are desired and potential harbors in which to cast anchor. Rerun of La farándula pasa by the Hubert de Blanck theater company. Sun 5 pm You’ve waited Long Enough page 38 Produced by .com For kids Pan American Purebred Dog Tournament February 21 to 24, 2014, Parque Metropolitano, Located South Tents, awnings, boxes, crates, street vendors, photographers; this is a major production. The International Spring Dog Show brings together dog owners, breeders, handlers and dog lovers every single year. And every day, there is a selection of Best in Show, which become the contenders for Best of the Best in the categories of Baby, Puppy, Junior and Adult. En Buena Compañía Carpa Trompoloco Sat & Sun, 4pm & 7pm The magical and adventurous world of the circus continues. Cuba’s prime circus venue, Carpa Trompoloco, presents “En Buena Compañía” (In Good Company), the new show featuring, among other acts, tightrope walkers, acrobats, clowns, gymnasts, trained animals, and the fascinating flying trapeze, which was awarded the Grand Prix during the past CIRCUBA 2013 Festival. Feria Internacional del Libro Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña (Feb 13-23) The 2014 XXIII Feria del Libro is dedicated to National Award winners Nersys Felipe in Literature and Rolando Rodríguez in Social Sciences. Ecuador will be the guest of honor. Special homage will also be paid to one of the greatest Spanish-language authors of the nineteenth century, the Cuban poet, playwright and narrator Gertrudis Gomez de Avellaneda on the 200th anniversary of her birth. You’ve waited Long Enough page 39 Produced by .com Photo by Alex Mene Havana Mantras By Conner Gorry Cubans like their dichos. For just about any hairball situation life coughs up, they’ve got a palliative or folksy saying. As you may imagine, the general difficulties of modern existence are fertile fodder. To cite just a few: A mal tiempo, buena cara. (When times are bad, put on a good face.) To the question ‘how ya doin’? or ‘what have you been up to?’, Cubans invariably answer: En la luchita. (Struggling a little/lot.). And then there’s the ubiquitous: No es fácil. (It’s not easy.) It’s not easy can apply to anything – caring for aging parents with Alzheimer’s; pending paperwork and attendant bureaucracy; the quality of bodega rice; even the weather. These sayings and many more like them have become mantras of sorts. Short, pithy and to the point, they help people fortify themselves and cope with the aging/bureaucracy/vagaries life never tires of throwing our way. Recently several friends confided that they invoke their own original mantras when faced with challenging situations. They make me smile (the mantras, not the challenging situations) – in mal tiempo, when things are especially difícil, and when it feels like the luchita might triumph once and for all. They’re funny in their way, these mantras, but You’ve waited Long Enough also weighty since they reveal the resilience and resolve with which Cubans confront obstacles. And I have a feeling such resilience, not to mention resolve, will become increasingly – urgently – important in times to come. If you follow Cuba news, you know that we’ve been under a wet, windy cold front for the past several days. It looks like it’s finally moving on and none too soon: over 100 buildings collapsed completely or in part in Havana due to these torrential, biblical rains, reminding me of 2005’s Hurricane Wilma. Rain like this is problematic here, not only because it sends buildings tumbling – it also floods homes, damages worldly goods and grinds transport, sectors of the economy and much of the bureaucracy to a halt. But it’s not just the wet: the cold is a problem too since so few of us have hot water in our homes. To be blunt: showering in this weather without hot water is a bitch. Sure, we heat up pots on the stove, decant it into a bucket, mix it with some cold and scoop it over us as fast as possible. It’s workable, but in those few seconds between scoops, you freeze your butt off. Occasionally, it’s not practical to heat water – there’s no time, no gas for the stove, whatever. End result? We take a lot of cold showers around here, even in winter, even during the chilliest fronts. As I was talking to my friend Julio Pedro about this, he told me he has a ritual – a mantra, mejor dicho page 40 Produced by .com – which he invokes before stepping into a cold shower. Bracing himself, he repeats over and over again, before and during the cold blast: Soy un macho de pinga. Soy un macho de pinga. (I’m the fucking man. I am the fucking MAN.) If you knew JP, you’d laugh, like we did, imagining this wisp of a guy incanting his cold shower mantra. The mantra topic came up again as another friend and I were planning a night out recently. We were headed to one of Havana’s largest theaters to see one of the country’s hottest acts. Neither of us had tickets and it was doubtful we could procure affordable entry the day of the show. I told her we’d only need one ticket since over the past decade, my foreign press pass has gained me entrance into even the most over-sold events, from Pablo Milanes to the Royal Ballet. My friend, who works for Prensa Latina, said she would use her work badge, a yellow and curling card encased in foggy plastic that says ‘Prensa’ in red letters. ‘Isn’t it expired?’ I asked her. ‘Yeah,’ she said. ‘But it has yet to fail me.’ ‘Nice.’ I said. Then she confessed: ‘but every time I use it, I think is it going to work? So just in case, I invoke my mantra:’ Soy la reina de la Habana. Soy la reina de la Habana. (I’m the queen of Havana.) I’m not sure if it was the badge, the mantra or her killer smile, but the queen and I got into the concert. At this point, you’re probably wondering about my mantras. I’ve got mine, of course. Like everyone else, I’ve had to develop and hone my resilience and coping mechanisms over the years here. One I’ve known for a long time, but really started invoking it during my month-long stint covering the Cuban medical/disaster relief team in Haiti after the earthquake. Now, whenever I’m faced with particularly trying circumstances beyond my control, I tell myself: No cojas lucha. No cojas lucha. (Pay it no mind/ Don’t fight it). I’ve added another mantra lately which helps me with the haters and naysayers who for time immemorial have tried to keep down the dreamers and lovers and doers: Qué lástima odias tu vida. (What a pity you hate your life.) And a pity it surely is, but you know what? It’s not my problem so I’m not going to coger lucha. Photo by Ana Lorena Conner Gorry is one of the most insightful writers about Cuba. Author of Here is Havana blog (http://hereishavana.wordpress.com/), she also puts together the Havana Good Time iPad/ Phone/Touch application http://itunes.apple.com/app/havana-good-time/id385663683?mt=8 (Android version) http://sutromedia.com/android/Havana_Good_Time - essential guide to What’s On in Havana. You’ve waited Long Enough page 41 Produced by .com ALL FOR US$ 2.99 Free updates for life Havana Good Time Discover Havana on your iPhone, iPad and Android, for the price of a mojito! Written by resident author and travel expert, Conner Gorry, Havana Good Time is: Fully functional in Cuba without internet connection Top rates in iTunes Scrupulously researched and continually updated Packed with the hottest new clubs, bars and paladars About the Author Travel writer, essayist, and journalist Conner Gorry first landed in Havana in 1993. Conner has traveled the length and breadth of Cuba writing on everything from wild camping to disaster medicine, 5-cent cigars and funerals. Pampered pooches at the Havana Dog Show Photo by Yadira Montero Pan American Purebred Dog Tournament February 21 to 24, 2014 By Victoria Alcalá & Anthony Del Prado Collectively, the Cuban people are crazy about dogs—literally, certifiably crazy. A clinical diagnosis might be mass bipolar disorder, with some Cubans abjectly irrationally terrified of the fluffiest little lapdog, while others display an unconditional, unthinking, reckless ardor for even the scariest, ugliest street critter that crosses their path. I’ve seen fully grown adult Cubans flee in fear from a gentle golden lab lounging lazily beside his owner at a sidewalk café, and I’ve seen doddering old ladies risk life and limb to offer leftovers scraps and a scratch behind the ear to truly frightening, the scariest, ugliest feral street critter pit bulls. Surely many Cubans balance somewhere in the median of this doggie dialectic, but like middle-of-theroaders everywhere, they apparently keep their mouths shut and carry on. Of course, nowhere is fervent puppy love more evident than within the burgeoning show dog sub-culture taking root in Havana. Even an Englishman out for a stroll in the midday Caribbean sunshine might be tempted to loosen his tie, perhaps even take off the jacket, as the temperature dial passes 30 Celsius. But not the proud owners of Havana’s finest canines who are put through their paces at Havana’s annual international dog show. Indeed, this is probably as impeccably groomed as you will find the human variety on this laid-back island nation. As for the Chow Chow, Dalmatian, Bichón Habanero, Siberian You’ve waited Long Enough Parque Metropolitano, Located South of Calle 26 behind the Hospital Joaquin Albarran Husky and Rhodesian Ridgeback—they were all up before dawn talking with their hair stylists and getting over their last minute nerves… Tents, awnings, boxes, crates, street vendors, photographers; this is a major production. The International Spring Dog Show brings together dog owners, breeders, handlers and dog lovers every single year. And every day, there is a selection of Best in Show, which become the contenders for Best of the Best in the categories of Baby, Puppy, Junior and Adult. I am always amazed by the variety. The majestic and graceful Afghan hound with its long silky coat; the tiny Yorkshire terrier whose long straight glossy coat of bluish gray and tan make him a beautiful breed of toy dog; the intelligent German shepherd; the heavy-coated blocky dog of ancient Chinese origin known as Chow Chow; the slender, graceful Dalmatian with its sparkling eyes; and the funny little Bichón Habanero or Havanese. And let’s not forget the most beautiful, kind and smart, the Rhodesian Ridgeback. The judges’ and handlers’ attire probably fare worse than the dogs baking under the radiant Havana sun. They wear jackets more appropriate for the first dog show held in Newcastle upon Tyne in 1859. The successive rounds of the competition allow the judges and audiences to appreciate the beauty and bearing of the dogs, which do not page 43 Produced by .com There are 112 pedigreed dog breeds officially registered in Cuba, though at any given dog show in Havana, perhaps only 30 or so breeds will be shown, with some showing only a few dogs each. In Cuba, therefore, the title of “Best in Breed” coveted elsewhere in the world, might sometimes be won by default through lack of competition. And so here, perhaps more than in other countries, the ribbon that really counts above all is Best in “Cho” (that’s “Show” in Cuban accented English.) The relatively low numbers of dogs competing in Havana’s dog shows, however, doesn’t mean that breed standards are relaxed. The show judges are invited from overseas, including at the last Dog Show in November, 2013, an international judge from Denmark who had previously in his career judged the Best in Show round at the famed Westminster Dog Show in London. The fact that Cuban dogs are judged according to international standards is a point of pride to the organizers and participants of Cuba’s dog shows. Anthony Del Prado is an American married to a Cuban, living in Havana, Cuba. His website, www.HavanaVIPTours.com provides 5-Star luxury tour services and planning for English-speaking travellers to Cuba from around the world. compete against each other but against something as difficult as the standard of perfection for their particular breed set by the International Dog Federation. Following three days of trials, the event comes to an end with the announcement of the winners. The atmosphere is tense… let’s be clear: we like to compete but we want to win…we want to win a lot… and the winner is… (April 2013) The Pan American Purebred Dog Tournament will be held at Parque Ecológico de La Habana from February 21 to 24, 2014. The event will award Attitude Certificates for Cuban, Young and Vet Champs, the Pan American Beauty Certificate and the Watch Dogs of the Island Certificate. International judges Álvaro Salazar (Costa Rica), Nelson Borroto (Cuba), Gerardo Heredia (Mexico) and José Raúl Nova (Dominican Republic) will be in charge of judging the best representatives in each category. Dog shows in Cuba are organized by the Federación Cinológica de Cuba, which operates under the international breed standards of the Belgiumbased Fédération Cynalogique Internationale. You’ve waited Long Enough page 44 Produced by .com February 14 Photo by Alex Mene Valentine’s Day in Cuba Given the sexually-charged, erotic atmosphere of Cuba on an average day, perhaps Valentine’s Day is unnecessary, an excessive indulgence in a country that needs little excuse for romantic courtship at any time. Nonetheless, February 14 has assumed increasing prominence over the years as the day when lovers need to be packed away because girlfriends and wives take center stage. It was an ancient custom to worship the God of Love—Eros for the Greeks, Cupid for the Romans— to dedicate offerings and gifts, and to seek their help in finding the perfect match. Although commemorating St. Valentine’s Day has its source in Anglo-Saxon tradition, the legend goes that around the 3rd century, the priest Valentine of Rome performed marriage ceremonies despite the orders of Emperor Claudius that young men remain single in order to expand his army, believing that married men did not make for good soldiers. Valentine defied Claudius and continued to perform marriages for young lovers in secret. When his actions were discovered, Claudius ordered that he be taken prisoner and thrown in jail. Further embellishment of the legend has it that, while in prison, he fell in love with his jailer’s daughter and sent the first “valentine” card himself, appropriately signing it “From your Valentine,” an expression that is still in use today. You’ve waited Long Enough In Great Britain, Valentine’s Day began to be celebrated around the 17th century. By the middle of the 18th century, friends and lovers in all social classes were exchanging small tokens of affection, notes or cards known as valentines. This practice began to expand to other countries, with their own particular features. Valentine’s Day was adopted in Latin American countries in the early 20th century, and greeting cards became just as popular as in the United States. According to Cuban patriot and poet José Martí, who lived many years in New York, these cards were made “of fine Bristol lined with lace or trimmings…there are angels, lovers, wild flower bouquets: lilies, daisies or sunflowers, that are in fashion now because they are the flowers of the esthetes.” In time, Valentine’s Day, or Lover’s Day, as it is known in Cuba, has become Day of Love and Friendship. This day is also chosen by many Cubans to give their sweethearts their engagement rings. Some even choose it as their wedding day. And, on that special night, the Malecón fills with lovers remembering the past and dreaming of the future. page 45 Produced by .com Upcoming World Series Bouts (Home) Fri Feb 21, 8.30pm: Cuba vs. Kazakhstan Fri Feb 28, 8.30pm: Cuba vs. Azerbaijan Ciudad Deportiva Photos by Alex Mene Cuba’s Domadores dominate Mexico’s Guerreros (5-0) By Lisa Rogers Friday, January 17, 2014 Cuba continued its domination of Group B of the World Series of Boxing with a relatively straightforward win against the Mexico Guerreros. The five bouts covered Flyweights (52kg), Lightweights (60kg), Welterweights (69kg), Light Heavyweights (81kg) and Super Heavyweights (91+kg). The best bout of the night saw Lightweight Lázaro ‘the Prince’ Alvarez, the Cuban current World Champion and London 2012 Olympic Bronze medallist, against Raul Curiel. It certainly was a trial by fire for the young Mexican, but whilst it would be easy to wax-lyrical about the 22 year old Cuban phenomenon’s boxing, it is also worth noting the bravery of the Guerrero, who didn’t make it easy for his more experienced opponent. Technically speaking it was the closest bout of the evening on the judges’ scorecards and it was a wonderful bout to watch. Welterweight Roniel Iglesias Sotolongo, the 2009 World Champion and Olympic Champion from the London Games, made his long-awaited WSB debut against Hector Reyes. Sotolongo meanwhile looked majestic in the ring. Leading with his right hand low to invite the counter-punch set-up, he was also able to snap in long range lead hooks and jabs with astonishing speed. This was a world class performance from a boxer who may well be refinding his best form. Their victory today meant that the Cubans have now only lost four bouts in 30 in the WSB so far, a WSB record. January 17, 2014 You’ve waited Long Enough page 46 Produced by .com Vuelta a Cuba February 15-22, 2014 Camagüey to Havana (8 stages) celebrating the 50th Anniversary of the Vuelta a Cuba. Photos by Jane Blackburn Tour de Cuba (Vuelta a Cuba) By John Walters The Vuelta a Cuba is a multi-day road bicycle racing stage race, which is held annually in February. The competition began in the easternmost city of Baracoa and participants covered 1,780 kilometers of Cuba in thirteen stages. The first such event took place in 1964, with 12 stages and 72 Cuban athletes. By the fourth event, foreigners were also participating. Our first Cuban champion was Sergio Martínez (Pipián), also known as the King of the Cuban Highways. Vuelta Ciclista a Cuba is part of the UCI America Tour, which is one of six UCI Continental Circuits sponsored by the Union Cycliste Internationale, the sport’s international governing body. The latest edition of the full event was held in 2011, the 35th in total since 1964. Of the 35 races, 28 have been won by Cubans and 7 by foreigners. Henry Kowalsky, from Poland, was the first foreigner to win in 1967 and Svein Tuft, from Canada, the latest one in 2007. Since 2011, due to economic pressure, no full Vuelta a Cuba has been held although there remain four more limited national circuits, which keep the tradition alive and serve as preparation for Cuban cyclists. Highlights include the mountainous areas around Baracoa that holds the summits at the border of Imías and the Alto de Cotilla. The race also included traversing the well known, beautiful and challenging Loma de la Farola. Sprints are held at at kilometre 70 at Imías, kilometre 90 at San Antonio del Sur and kilometre 110 at Tortuguilla. 2014 marks the 50th Anniversary of the Vuelta a Cuba and in recognition of this there will be an 8 stage race held from Camagüey to Havana (8 stages) from February 15th to 22nd, 2014. Some of the outstanding individuals on these tours de Cuba have been Eduardo Alonso, Sergio Martínez and, most recently, Pedro Pablo Pérez and Arnold el chiqui Alcolea, winner of the last two editions and currently the star of Cuban crosscountry cycling. You’ve waited Long Enough page 47 Produced by .com Photos courtsey of Christopher Baker Julio Muñoz : Trinidad’s horse whisperer By Christopher P. Baker Julio Muñoz is Trinidad’s “mane” man. My pal— an intense, iconoclastic, and impish “horse whisperer”—has an ability to communicate with horses perhaps unique in Cuba. Trinidad, a four hour drive southeast of Havana, is an exquisite 18th-century time-warp with sloping cobbled streets that echo to the clip-clop of hooves. Founded in 1514 as one of Cuba’s original seven cities, this perfectly preserved colonial town was in 1988 declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. To visitors it seems to have been pickled in aspic. Muñoz is descended from Spanish immigrants. Over two centuries the family grew wealthy and well-respected before losing most of its properties following the Revolution. Julio’s grandfather was the town gynecologist and many trinitarios were born, as was Julio, in the front room of the beautiful colonial house he would eventually inherit. (The October 1999 edition of National Geographic magazine features a photograph of Julio’s wife, Rosa, sitting with her niece on a priceless gold gilt Louis XIV-style bed that once occupied the room.) to-people exchange” programs, it was a no-brainer to include Trinidad and a visit to Julio and Rosa’s home. The highlight is when he or his wife Rosa bring whichever horse (they own seven) they have living at that time in the courtyard stable and lead it clipclopping into the house. Right there, in among the antique furniture and two dozen people. Guests love it! Our visitors lean forward in their seats, mouths creased in smiles, as Julio explains: “I’ve been interested in photography since I was a kid. But playing in the cobbled streets, seeing mules and ox-carts and traditions that seem so Julio and Rosa long ago adopted me as part of their family, right up there with the live-in horse. Thus, when National Geographic Expeditions invited me to design and lead the company’s 10day ‘Cuba: Discover its People & Culture’ “people- You’ve waited Long Enough page 48 Produced by .com “My house guests have included horse trainers and veterinarians,” Julio continues. “They said, ‘Julio, you could have saved your horse!’” “It was a revelation. Because I rent rooms to foreigners, I discovered that if I’d had a gastric tube I could have saved Diana. Guests brought me books and so I began reading and reading and reading. That’s when I realized Cubans have been doing many things incorrectly.” Julio’s eyes light up. “Ah…ah! And that’s when I learned about the horse whisperer technique.” fantastic to you, well that seemed normal to me. It was the world I grew up in,” he says, motioning to a horse-drawn cart clattering past the open window. “In 1996 we were allowed to rent rooms to foreigners, so I quit my job as an electrical engineer. My wife and I repaired the house and opened two rooms as a bed and breakfast. It changed my world,” Julio continues. “Owning a casa particular is like going back to university. Cubans don’t have Internet or access to information like you. But we have guests from all walks of life, such as professional photographers.” Inspired and encouraged by people like myself, and fellow National Geographic photographer David Harvey (who first introduced me to Julio in 1999), Julio fell in love with documentary photojournalism. He began to explore Trinidad with fresh eyes. “I wanted to record everything,” Julio continues as Chloe, his four-year-old Dalmatian bounds into the lounge and leaps into guests’ laps on the sofa. My trip members are fanning themselves from the stifling Cuban heat. “One of the most interesting aspects of Trinidad is the countryside. I wanted to photograph campesinos—the farmers—but the only way to reach the countryside is by horse,” explains Julio, who is dressed in cowboy hat, plaid shirt, Levi jeans, and embroidered cowboy boots. “My Lada kept getting stuck in mud! So I borrowed a friend’s horse, and that’s when I fell in love with horses. I had to own one.” Suddenly he turns and strides off: “Wait!... I have something to show you!” Julio disappears into the zócalo—the rear patio—and returns moments later leading his favorite horse, Luna de Miel, by the reins. Its hooves clatter on the colonial ceramic tiles as it maneuvers calmly between the guests seated on rockers and sofas. Julio points at me. “If it shits on the floor, he has to pick it up!” Then Julio demonstrates his amazing communication skills with the horse, employing the techniques of Monty Roberts, the impresario ‘horse whisperer’ who has revolutionized horsetraining methods with his best-selling Man Who Listens to Horses and documentaries on PBS and the BBC. His “Language of Equus” is a silent language of gestures that, says, Roberts, “conveys to [the] horse a calm, confident leadership,” instilling in the horse complete trust and a desire to be a willing partner that will want to be with, and comply with, their owner.” “The key is to use the horse’s psychology,” says Julio, drawing the horse into the half-moon of humans, now sitting quite literally on the edge of their seats. “The horse is a herd animal. Once you understand how horses communicate with each other through body language in the natural world, you can do amazing things. With Monty Robert’s techniques I can establish a connection,” he continues. “The Julio smiles broadly. He stands taller, proud, as he falls momentarily silent. Then he regales how his first horse, Diana, died of colic. (By chance, the previous day I’d taken a photo of Julio hugging the horse. It’s one of my favorite photos.) The young mare was born and raised inside his colonial casa. Says Julio: “She was living in the house and walking around like a dog. I have videos to prove it.” You’ve waited Long Enough page 49 Produced by .com horse is happy. It trusts me. It’s willing to let me do things a horse normally won’t let humans do.” time than a horse that is ‘broken’ through pain and submission.” Julio moves his hands over the horse’s eyes, and extends his fingers inside Luna de Miel’s nostrils. The horse doesn’t flinch, but endures the routine patiently. Julio then puts his hand into the mare’s mouth and grabs the thick, wet tongue: “Anyone want to shake my hand?” Julio jokes about how the campesinos get out the tools he’s given them when they know he’s about to visit, but it clearly pains him that few actually use them and that equally few have adopted his progressive, more humane, methods. Then he crouches beneath the brown quarter horse and tucks himself between its rear legs. “This is a very dangerous position. Don’t do this at home!” The horse seems oblivious. It’s slow progress. Still, he doesn’t give up. He continues to teach through example, hoping his methods will catch on. “Horses are very useful,” he says, pointing at one of my balding clients. “For example, you can use the tail as a wig.” Julio takes off his hat then grabs the tail, places it atop his head, parts it to each side, and replaces his hat. Julio explains to our groups that there are relatively few veterinarians and even fewer medicines available in Cuba. Hence many campesinos use relatively useless and potentially harmful ‘home remedies.’ And sick or injured horses are left to die, or are killed, simply because the owners don’t have the means to cure them. Most important, Julio explains, is love. Lots of love. And never pain. “Never give pain to the horse!” he stresses. On a recent visit, Julio had just rescued a young half-starved foal that had been trapped in mud and which the owner had left to die. Julio tries to spread the message to local campesinos (peasant farmers) through his Proyecto Diana, named for his first horse, which died of colic. Our National Geographic Expeditions participants looked on in awe as Julio led the foal out of the stable to demonstrate, yet again, the remarkable bond and affection he has established between man and horse. Says Julio: “The traditional method of ‘breaking’ in a horse causes pain and damage. We show other horse owners that it is possible to train a horse without using violent, traditional methods, and that we can mount a new horse in a far shorter Proyecto Diana needs donations of proper shoeing and other farrier tools, which are almost entirely lacking in Cuba. You can contact Julio Muñoz directly: Calle José Martí # 401, Trinidad, Sancti Spíritus Tel +53 (41) 99-3673 (International) E-mail: [email protected] Christopher P. Baker is a professional travel writer, photographer, and tour leader. His six books about Cuba include MI MOTO FIDEL: MOTORCYCLING THROUGH CASTRO’S CUBA (National Geographic Adventure Press), winner of two national book awards. http://christopherpbaker.com/mi-moto-fidel You’ve waited Long Enough page 50 Produced by .com In 1996 Christopher shipped his BMW R100GS motorcycle to Cuba and rode 7,000 miles during a three-month journey to research the Moon handbook to Cuba. His award-winning literary travel book – Mi Moto Fidel: Motorcycling through Castro’s Cuba – describing the journey was published by National Geographic Adventure Press. Awards Travel Book of the Year Lowell Thomas Awards “This is a wonderful adventure book… a meditation on philosophy, politics, and the possibilities of physical love. It has the depth of a novel and the feeling of a great love story.” Judges, Lowell Thomas Award also NATJA Grand Prize Rave reviews… “Mi Moto Fidel is a satisfying and complete portrait of Cuba It’s all here: money, sex, politics, geography, history, cigars, marlin, and, of course, Fidel. Serious travel writing is often intricate and complex. Bikers, it seems, do it better.” Tim Cahill — Pass the Butterworms and Road Fever “Baker’s kiss-and-tell account of his romps across Fidel’s island offers a bittersweet glimpse of life inside the last Marxist utopia.” Jon Lee Anderson — Che Guevara: A Revolutionary Life “Chris Baker’s chaotic pilgrimage–by turns sharp-eyed, lustful, poetic, feverish and joyful–brings a tropical nation of 10 million to vivid, pulsating life. The motorcycle proves itself, once again, a brilliant, ice-breaking instrument of true travel.” Ted Simon — Jupiter’s Travels: Four Years Around the World on a Triumph "Christopher P. Baker is a professional travel writer, photographer, and tour leader. His six books about Cuba include MI MOTO FIDEL: MOTORCYCLING THROUGH CASTRO'S CUBA (National Geographic Adventure Press), winner of two national book awards. http://christopherpbaker.com/mi-moto-fidel Photo by Yadira Montero February 13-March 9, 2014 Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña (Feb. 13-23) & provincial capitals (Feb. 24 to Mar. 9) The 2014 Feria Internacional del Libro The 2014 XXIII Feria del Libro is dedicated to National Award winners Nersys Felipe in Literature and Rolando Rodríguez in Social Sciences. Ecuador will be the guest of honor. Special homage will also be paid to one of the greatest Spanish-language authors of the nineteenth century, the Cuban poet, playwright and narrator Gertrudis Gomez de Avellaneda on the 200th anniversary of her birth. What began as a modest book fair founded by the famous Cuban writer Alejo Carpentier, eventually became the most important literary event on the island. Every year tens of thousands of people pack the San Carlos de la Cabaña Fortress in Havana, attracted by book launchings of all genres and topics from Cuban and foreign publishing houses, along with panel discussions, poetry readings, concerts, children’s events, and a crafts fair. After Havana, the fair travels to other Cuban cities. The first known book fair in Cuba was held in May 1937 in the areas adjacent to the esplanade of La Punta Fortress, the Malecón and the Paseo del Prado. Despite government collaboration, it barely had an impact on the country’s cultural life, even in Havana. The idea was taken up again in the 1950s, this time designed to be held along the Paseo del Prado and Parque Central, but this effort also left no mark. You’ve waited Long Enough In March 1959, only three months after the revolutionary triumph, three important institutions were created: the National Printers of Cuba, the Cuban School of Graphic Arts and the School of Typography, whose purpose was to produce books that would be available and affordable for everyone. With the Literacy Campaign in 1961, a wide reading public was born, one who began to need books as an essential part of their existence. With the creation of the National Publishers of Cuba and the strengthening of different cultural institutions that helped Cuban authors to get published, the conditions for conducting book fairs in Cuba would change dramatically. By the mid 1960s, there was already a national industry, a population of avid readers and new writers who contributed to the publication of varied topics and genres. For three consecutive years in the 60s, Parque Central was the venue of what was then called the Cuban Book Festival, but this never really took off. With the creation of the Ministry of Culture in 1976, the Cuban Book Institute considered the possibility of resuming the organization of book fairs and made some launchings and sales in the small plaza between the Asturian Center and the Manzana de Gómez, with a high turnout due largely to the auction of books and literary competitions. page 52 Produced by .com The 1st Havana International Book Fair took place in 1982 in the exhibition halls of the Fine Arts Museum and was dedicated to Cuban patriot and writer José Martí, Cuban poet Nicolas Guillén and Bulgarian leader Georgi Dimitrov, who had been a printer by trade. The modest representation of publishers and guests included publishers and writers from Latin America. Since then, the event has expanded in different ways. From the simple exhibition and sale of books of the early years, the fair now revolves around a central theme and a guest country. Activities include prizes to Cuban authors; panels, readings and lectures by outstanding Cuban and international writers; art exhibitions and concerts; launchings and book signing; and, of course, the sale of books. As of 2002, the fair was extended to 30 other cities throughout Cuba from early February to mid March making it the largest cultural event held in Cuba. The location in La Cabaña Fortress enables the fair to attract diverse audiences. There are those attracted by the launching of new works and also those who go there simply to enjoy family life ensured by the spectacular view of the city, restaurants and fast food outlets, children’s playground within the deep dry moat and concerts You’ve waited Long Enough in the evenings, attended mainly by a young festive crowd. Crafts have always played an important part in these fairs. The last fair in 2013 saw over 2,000 titles on sale with around 260 writers and intellectuals, and 600 editors from 41 countries actively involved. A massive 2.5 million people bought almost 1.5 million books in 25 days. These numbers miss the spirit and heart of this event in La Cabaña Fortress. Take a look. For more information see http://feriadellibro. cubaliteraria.cu/ page 53 Produced by .com El Guajirito Zulueta No. 660 entre Apodaca y Gloria, Habana Vieja. Nightly from 9.30pm Photos by Lorena Legendarios de Guajirito By John Walters If El Guajirito were a book it would not want to be judged by its cover. The grimy street outside seems a world away from the beautified parts of Habana Vieja. Only a few minutes walk from the luxurious Saratoga hotel it seems a world away as bicitaxi drivers loiter outside touting for business. Entering what seems like a semi derelict building we emerge onto the first floor, which is a hive of activity — nicely illuminated, air-conditioned, packed with people who clearly got the memo that this is the place to be. We are here for the show – the line up highlights the groups’s bonafides, two members of the legendary Buena Vista Social Club and three from the AfroCuban All Stars. And they have had international success: they boast two Grammies and another two Grammy nominees. per head. They are simply superb; maybe there is something in the Cuban air where age defeats reason as an 81 year-old member of the group twirls my date around the dance floor. This is not stale, stiff or formulaic (à la Tropicana). Instead it seems like they are playing for the first time, craving the audience’s appreciation. The drumming is out of this world—as Luis Mariano Valiente (Betún) performs a solo, the crowd is on its feet (German birdwatchers and all). This is as good and as close as you will get in Cuba to that cliché of the 1950s. Yet it is older and wiser, maybe better in point of fact since the performers have El Guajirito is a place for tourists looking for the lost nirvana of the 1950s — made so very famous by the success of Buena Vista Social Club. The atmosphere is expectant, waitresses bustling efficiently — it doesn’t hurt that they are all gorgeous! The food, on the other hand, is decent although not spectacular. As the show starts at 9.30pm, it quickly becomes apparent why the place if full, packed at CUC 50 You’ve waited Long Enough page 54 Produced by .com that mellowness that comes from age. They are doing something they love and want to be heard. Sometimes it is difficult to know if people like something. English politeness, German reserve, French aloofness; who knows what they really think? Not here, and not after that performance – by the end, even the Suecos (Swiss tourists known for having two left feet) are on their feet dancing. This is a simply spectacular show with world class performers. Members of Legendarios del Guajirito Benitico Llanes Maida Mitchell Eduardo Rico Luis Valiente ‘Betun’ Félix Baloy Jr. Luis Valdés Lázaro J.Villa Morgan Carlos Puisseaux Campana de Oro (1995), Congo de Oro (1996) Star of Tropicana Sierra Maestra (Grammy nominee, 2010) Cubanísimo 2003-07 / Afro-Cuban All Stars, 2011 Afro-Cuban All Stars Buena Vista Social Club (Grammy winner) Buena Vista Social Club (Grammy winner) Afro-Cuban All Stars (Grammy nominee, 1998) Other group members Emilio Ramos, Yelfris Valdés, Jesús Bello, Eduardo Himely, Alejando Suárez NOTES: The first floor of this building has actually been split between two restaurants, El Tablao de Pancho and El Guajirito. Slightly confusingly, the show used to be in the Tablao de Pancho. It has now moved into a larger space the other side of the entrance (El Guajirito). Upstairs is the nightclub, Escaleras al Cielo (literally, Stairway to Heaven). Although the environs are distinctly non-salubrious, this being Havana, it is actually perfectly safe outside just not the sort of street you would walk down late at night back in London. CUC 50 for dinner & show Every night from 9.30pm Reservations can be made through your travel agent or directly at “El Tablao de Pancho” (restaurant at same address). Zulueta No. 660 entre Apodaca y Gloria, Habana Vieja Tel: +53 (07) 861-7761 +53 5 422-3648 You’ve waited Long Enough page 55 Produced by .com Havana Buzz: Street Art at Cuba Libro By Conner Gorry On January 18, ‘Con lo que haya’ (‘With Whatever There Is’), a fun, spunky show by Havana graffiti artist and illustrator Kaos, rolled into Cuba Libro. This is the fourth exhibit by a young Cuban artist at the island’s first English-language bookstore/ café since it opened in August, 2013. Kaos’ playfully arresting works created on whatever materials he could lay his hands on—hence the title—feel like they were made for this space. Foreigners and Cubans who have passed by to take a look agree, calling the canvasses and drawings ‘captivating,’ ‘interesting,’ and ‘innovative.’ This is no mean feat considering the pop culture subject matter, including striking portraits of global icons Marilyn Monroe, Yoko Ono, and Salvador Dali and the urban, street-honed style which is Kaos’ (AKA Marcos López Hernández) hallmark. Part of the attraction is how the artist installed the show, taking his hand-mixed spray paints to the small gallery space and creating an original graffiti piece over which the works were mounted. “It’s beautiful and original. I love it when an artist is able to come into a space and make it their own, letting it, as much as the work, speak for their creativity,” says conceptual photographer Irolan Maroselli, whose show preceded this one. You’ve waited Long Enough Like the three shows previous, Con lo que haya was kicked off with a packed, grand opening. As visitors from down the block and around the world checked out the art, and drank wine and rum liberally (Tu Kola and Cachito for the many kids in attendance), Kaos explained the how and why of his show. “I’m thrilled to exhibit at Cuba Libro. I’m used to working in the streets, which is special in its own way because it allows me to make our daily landscape more attractive visually, but to have a solo show is exciting and a first for me,” he was overheard saying at the opening. “This is something totally new for Cuba--to have the kind of art that is normally seen on walls and abandoned buildings exhibited in a proper space. I like it,” says Cuba Libro regular Telma Álvarez. We hope you will too: please drop by and be part of something new and different in Cuba. Your presence, patronage, and energy help promote new initiatives and young artists like Kaos. Cuba Libro is on Calle 24, on the corner of Calle 19, in Vedado. We’re open daily but Sundays, 10am8pm. Telephone: 830 5205. Follow us on Twitter (@ cubalibrohavana) and Facebook (cubalibroHAV) or drop us an email at [email protected]. page 56 Produced by .com El Litoral Malecon No. 161 E/ K y L, Vedado (+53) 7-830-2201 The best places to eat in Havana Asturiano CA 4+ El Atelier CA 5 Fabulous leg of lamb Experimental contemporary fusion Paseo del Prado 309 esq a Virtudes Calle 5 e/ Paseo y 2, Vedado Braisserie Café Laurent 5 Carboncita 5 4+ Calle 35 No 1361, e/ La Torre y 24, Nuevo Vedado Calle 19, No 1010, e/ a 12, Vedado 5 CA Charming, quality food. (+53) 7-883 1216 (+53) 7-831-8847 CA Bollywood Indian Authentic Spanish food (+53) 7-836-2025 CA CA Spanish Elegant and charming (+53) 7-862 3626 Bikos La Casa CA 5 Casa Miglis CA 5 Spanish/Mediterranean Italian Contemporary fusion Swedish-Cuban fusion Beautiful penthouse with Walter’s place - Great pizza Great service Oasis in Centro Habana Calle M No. 257, e/ 19 y 21, Vedado Ave. 3ra No. 3804 e/ 38 y 40, Miramar Calle 30 No. 865 e/ 26 y 41, Nuevo Vedado Lealtad 120 e/ Ánimas y Lagunas, Centro Havana (+53) 7-831-2090 (+53) 7-881-7000 (+53) 7-203 0261 Chanchullero CA 5+ Chansonnier CA 5+ (+53) 7-864-1486 Cocina Lilliam CA 4+ El Cocinero CA 5+ Spanish/Mediterranean Contemporary fusion International Hole in the wall tapas The IT place Set in a beautiful garden Great ambience & service Calle J No. 257 e/ Línea y 15, Vedado Calle 48 # 1311, e/ 13 y 15, Miramar Calle 26, e/ 11 and 13, Vedado. Teniente Rey 457a bajos, Plaza del Cristo, Old Havana (+53) 7-872-8227 Corte Príncipe CA 5+ Il Divino (+53) 7-832-2355 (+53) 7-209-6514 (+53) 7-832-1576 CA 5+ Esperanza International CA 4+ D. Eutimia CA Italian International Cuban fusion Cuban/Creole Spectacular pasta A great day out 9na esq. 74, Miramar Intimate, idiosyncratic & charming Absolutely charming Calle Raquel, No. 50 e/ Esperanza y Lindero, Mantilla, Arroyo Naranjo (+53) 5-255-9091 (+53) 7-643-7734 La Fontana CA 5+ La Guarida CA 5+ Callejón del Chorro No. 60C, Plaza de la Catedral, Old Havana Calle 16 # 105 e/ 1ra y 3ra, Miramar (+53) 7-202-4361 Iván Chef CA (+53) 7-861-1332 5+ El Litoral CA International Contemporary fusion Spanish (Tapas) International Consistently good Justifiably famous Brilliantly creative food Sea view, great food. Calle 46 No. 305 esq a 3ra, Miramar Concordia 418 e/ Gervasio y Escobar Aguacate #9, Esq. Chacón, Old Havana Malecon No. 161 E/ K y L, Vedado (+53) 7-202-8337 Nardos (+53) 7-866-9047 CA 4+ Piccolo (+53) 7-863-9697 CA 4+ Río Mar 5+ CA (+53) 7-830-2201 5 San Cristóbal CA International Italian International Cuban/Creole Great value, busy vibe Kitsch pizza place post Wonderful view Cute kitsch Prado # 563 e Teniente Rey y Dragones, Old Havana 5ta A # 50206 e/ 502 y 504, Guanabo, Habana del Este 3A y Final # 11, La Puntilla, Miramar Calle San Rafael No 469 e/ Lealtad y Campanario (+53) 796-4300 (+53) 7-863-2985 Santy CA 5+ Starbien (+53) 7-209-4838 CA 5 El Templete 5+ CA 5- 5 (+53) 7-860-9109 Vista del Mar CA 4+ Sushi/Oriental Spanish/Mediterranean Spanish/Mediterranean International/seafood World class, unique. Quality food Old school – quality Beautiful sea view for lunch Calle 240A No 3023 esq. 3raC, Jaimanitas Calle 29 # 205 e/ B y C. Vedado Av del Puerto #12 esq a Narciso López Ave. 1ra e/ 22 y 24, Miramar (+53) 5-286-7039 You’ve (+53) 7-830-0711 waited Long Enough (+53) 7-866-8807 January 2014 Produced by (+53) 7-203-8328 .com La Casa CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style of food Contemporary fusion CostExpensive Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Warm hospitality and openness from the four generations of the Robaina family. Quality food. Don’t miss Thursday night sushi night. The Piña Colada. Calle 30 No. 865 e/ 26 y 41, Nuevo Vedado (+53) 7-881-7000 Le Chansonnier CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of food Contemporary fusion CostExpensive Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for The IT Place. Stylish, elegant and sophisticated décor – modern installations. Don’t miss Cuisines that push the Cuban envelope - lobster carpaccio and grilled red snapper. Calle J No. 257 e/ Línea y 15, Vedado (+53) 7-832-1576 El Cocinero CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of food International CostModerate Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Fabulous industrial chic alfresco rooftop with a buzzing atmosphere, great service & good food. Don’t miss Some of the best parties in Havana, which attract both a funky Cuban set and expatriates in the know. Calle 26, e/ 11 and 13, Vedado. (+53) 7-832-2355 La Guarida CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of food Contemporary fusion CostExpensive Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Authentic, charming and intimate atmosphere in Cuba’s best known restaurant. Great food, professional. Classy. Don’t Miss Uma Thurman, Beyoncé or the Queen of Spain if they happen to be dining next to you. Concordia 418 e/ Gervasio y Escobar (+53) 7-866-9047 You’ve waited Long Enough January 2014 Produced by .com Iván Chef Justo CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of food Spanish/Mediterranean CostExpensive Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Spectacular innovative food. Light and airy place where it always seems to feel like Springtime. Don’t Miss The lightly spiced grilled mahimahi served with organic tomato relish. Try the suckling pig and stay for the cuatro leches. Aguacate #9, Esq. Chacun, Old Havana (+53) 7-863-9697 El Litoral CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of food International CostExpensive Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Quality décor, good service and great food. Best new place recently opened. Don’t Miss Drinking a cocktail at sunset watching the world go by on the Malecón Malecon 161 E/ K y L, Vedado (+53) 7-830-2201 Casa Miglis CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style of food Swedish CostExpensive Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for The beautifully designed interior, warm ambience and Miglis’s personality create the feeling of an oasis in Central Havana. Don’t Miss Chatting with Mr Miglis. The Skaargan prawns, beef Chilli and lingonberries. Lealtad 120 e/ Ánimas y Lagunas, Centro Havana (+53) 7-864-1486 Santy CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of food Sushi/Oriental CostModerate Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Fabulous sushi, wonderful ambience overlooking fishing boats heading out to sea. World class. Don’t miss Getting a reservation here. Calle 240A No. 3023 esq. a 3ra C, Jaimanitas (+53) 5-286-7039 You’ve waited Long Enough January 2014 Produced by .com Kpricho Calle 94 No. 110 e/ 1ra y 3ra, Miramar (+53) 7-206-4167 The best Bars & Clubs in Havana Bertolt Brech CA 5 Bohemio Café Cantante CA CA 5- Think MTV Unplugged. Hip, funky and unique. Elegant quiet bar with a nice vibe Great musicans. Recently renovated. Good sound Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado Calle 21 No. 1065 e/ 12 y 14, Vedado Teatro Nacional, Av Paseo, esq 39, Plaza de la Revolución (+53) 7-8301354 (+53) 7-878-4273 (+53) 7-833 6918 Casa Música CA 4 The best salsa bands. Small (ish) and a little worn these days. Calle 20, esq. 35, Miramar La Cecilia El Cocinero CA 4+ CA 4 CA 5+ Avenida 1ra e/ 16 & 18, Miramar (+53) 7-832-2355 Esencia Habana CA 5 Espacios CA 5- Calle 10 No. 510, e/ 5ta y 31, Miramar (+53) 7-836-3031 Gato Tuerto (+53) 7-202-2921 Kpricho CA 4+ Outdoor Miami style lounge bar. Old-school state place. Fabulous bolero singers. Calle 46 No. 305, esq. 3ra, Miramar Calle O, entre 17 y 19, Vedado CA 5 Über modern stylish indoor bar/club. Party starts late. Calle 94 No. 110 e/ 1ra y 3ra, Miramar (+53) 7-833-2224 (+53) 7-206-4167 Meliá sports Bar CA 4 Pepito’s Bar 5- (+53) 7-204-3837 Calle B, e/ Linea & Calzado. Vedado CA 5- Don Cangrejo CA Calle 26, e/ 11 y 13, Vedado Calle Zulueta No. 658 e/ Gloria y Apodaca, Old Havana Melem (+53) 7-860 8296/4165 5ta Avenida No. 11010, e/ 110 y 112, Miramar Laid back contemporary bar with a real buzz. (+53) 7-202-8337 Galiano, entre Neptuno y Concordia, Centro Habana Love it/hate it – come for the Friday night party Spacious indoor modern bar. Good service. CA 5 4 A little rough but spacious. See the best Cuban salsa bands Fabulous rooftop setting, great service, cool vibe. Friday night attracts a LGBT crowd La Fontana Casa Música CA Big venue, very popular, see PMM here. (+53) 7-204 0447 Ecaleras Cielo 5- CA 4 El Floridita CA 5- Hemingway’s daiquiri bar. Obispo No. 557 Ave. de Bélgica, Old Havana (+53) 7-867 1299 Café Madrigal CA 4 Beautifully décor in a spectacular space. Cold Calle 17 No. 302 (altos) entre 2 y 4, Vedado (+53) 7-831 2433 Las Piedras CA 4 Popular modern bar. Can get smoky. Big-screen sports in modern outdoor place. Live nueva trova in small (ish) intimate environment. Bar of choice for the afterparty (3am+). 1ra, e/ 58 y 60, Miramar Meliá Habana Hotel Ave. 3ra e/ 76 y 80, Miramar Calle 26 e/ Av Zoologigo & Calle 47. Nuevo Vedado 1ra y 32, Miramar (+53) 7-881-1808 (+53) 7-204-8500 Privé Lounge CA 5 Intimate lounge club with great acoustics. Calle 88A No. 306 e/ 3ra y 3ra A, Miramar (+53) 7-209-2719 Somavilla Bar CA Sangri-La CA 5 4+ Avenida 21, e/ 36 y 42, Miramar Avenida 9na No. 12015, e/ 120 y 130, Miramar TaBARish CA 5- Indoor Russian themed bar/restuarant. Calle 20 No. 503 e/ 5ta y 7ma, Miramar 15 y H, Vedado CA 5- Best contemporary & Nueva Trova singers. (+53) 5-264-8343 Small hip place catering to the cool crowd. El Sauce For the cool kids. Basement bar/club. (+53) 7-204-6428 El Tocororo CA 4 Expat favorite hangout. Small with live music. Calle 18, e/ 3ra y 5ta, Miramar (+53) 7-202-9486 Sloppy Joe’s CA 4+ One of the best bars in the world (1950s). Ánimas, esq. Zulueta, Old Havana (+53) 7-866 7157 Up & Down CA 4 Disco vibe with Cuban pop. Young Cuban crowd 5ta, e/ B y C, esq B Vedado (+53) 7-202-9188 You’ve waited Long Enough January 2014 Produced by .com Bertolt Brecht CA 4+ CA TOP PICK Contemporary Bar Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Hanging out with hip & funky Cubans who like their live music. Don’t Miss Interactivo playing on a Wednesday evening. Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado (+53) 7-8301354 Esencia Habana CA 5- CA TOP PICK Contemporary Bar Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Nice vibe with good music and attractive moden decor. Interesting clientele of mostly 30 somethings. Smoke-free. Don’t Miss Wednesday night Single’s night (from 8pm) . Friday night Happy Hour (57pm). Calle B, e/ Linea & Calzado (+53) 7-836-3031 Espacios CA 5- CA TOP PICK Contemporary Bar Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Laid back lounge atmosphere in the garden area which often has live music. Good turnover of people. Don’t Miss Ray Fernandez, Tony Avila, Yasek Mazano playing live sets in the garden. Calle 10, # 510, e/ 5ta y 31, Miramar (+53) 7-202-2921 La Fontana CA 5 CA TOP PICK Contemporary Bar Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Contemporary lounge bar. Great service. Excellent cocktails. Beautiful people. Don’t Miss The influx of people from other locations at 3am! Calle 46 # 305, esq. 3ra, Miramar (+53) 7-202-8337 You’ve waited Long Enough January 2014 Produced by .com Melia Sports Bar CA 4+ CA TOP PICK Sports Bar + Live Music Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Watching the game (any game) on the big screen. Great live music – busy vibe – very popular. Don’t Miss The World Cup – book your seats now! Melia Habana Hotel Ave. 3ra e/ 76 y 80, Miramar (+53) 7-204-8500 Kpricho CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Contemporary Bar/CLUB Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Über cool & stylish indoor space where Havana’s coolest DJs keep the party going. Don’t Miss ‘Mas que una noche es un kpricho’ 94 entre 1ra y 3ra # 110, Miramar (+53) 7-206-4167 [email protected] Privé Lounge CA 5 CA TOP PICK LOUNGE CLUB (LIVE MUSIC) Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Intimate lounge club with quality decor and great acoustics. Don’t Miss Sunday night jazz – brilliant musicans play here. Calle 88A #306 e/ 3ra y 3ra A, Miramar (+53) 7-209-2719 Sangri-La CA 5 CA TOP PICK Contemporary Bar/CLUB Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Hanging out with the cool kids on the Havana Farundula in the most popular bar/club. Don’t Miss The best gin and tonic in Havana. Avenida 21, e/ 36 y 42, Miramar (+53) 5-264-8343 You’ve waited Long Enough January 2014 Produced by .com Legendarios de Guajirito Best live music venues in Havana Classical Teatro Auditórium Amadeo Roldán Great space. Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís Amadeo Roldán Teatro Auditórium Calzada No. 512, esquina D, Vedado Calle Oficios, Plaza San Francisco de Asís, Old Havana Beautiful church Jazz Oratorio de San Felipe Neri Sala Covarrubias, Teatro Nacional Fabulous acoustics Recently renovated Calle Aguiar No.412 entre Obrapia y Lamparilla, Old Havana Paseo y 39, Plaza de la Revolución Privé Lounge La Zorra y el Cuervo Café Jazz Miramar Jazz Café Improvised jamming. Funky. Quality jazz. Cold atmosphere. Chilled at mosphere – private Cine Teatro Miramar Calle 5ta Esquina A 94, Miramar 10:30pm – 2am Centro de Danza de la Habana. Prado No. 111, e/ Genios y Refugio Calle 88A No. 306 e/ 3ra y 3ra A, Miramar, (07) 209-2719 Café Cantante Mi Habana Casa de la Música de Centro Habana Casa de la Música de Miramar / El Diablo Tun Tun (upstairs) Teatro Nacional de Cuba, Avenida Paseo, esquina 39, Plaza de la Revolución Galiano, entre Neptuno y Concordia, Centro Habana (07) 860 8296/4165 Best salsa bands Don Cangrejo El Sauce Salsa/Timba A bit rough. Great bands. Great musicians. Basement club. Contemporary Bertolt Brecht Café Teatro Beautiful people…cool Cuban hipsters Avenida 1ra entre 16 & 18, Miramar Bertolt Brecht Café Teatro Calle 13 e/I y J, Vedado Trova & traditional Barbaram Pepito’s Bar El Gato Tuerto Calle 26 entre Avenida del Zoológico y Calle 47. Nuevo Vedado (07) 881-1808 Calle O, entre 17 y 19, Vedado Nueva trova musicians You’ve Fabulous bolero. Intimate waited Long Enough Calle 35, esquina 20, Playa For best in Nueva trova Avenida 9na #12015, entre 120 y 130, Playa Tel: +53 (07) 204-6428 Legendarios de Guajirito Buena Vista Social Club 1950’S style brilliantly done. Zulueta No. 660 entre Apodaca y Gloria, Habana Vieja. January 2014 Produced by Intimate and atmospheric. Calle 23, entre N y O Tel. 833 2402 El Jelengue de Areíto Matinees on the terrace EGREM Patio San Miguel 410, entre Campanario y Lealtad, en Centro Habana Teatro de Bellas Artes Small intimate venue Trocadero entre Agramonte y Avenida de las Misiones, Old Havana Salón 1930 ‘Compay Segundo’ Buena Vista. Traditional. Hotel Nacional de Cuba, Calle O, esquina 21, Vedado .com The best private places to stay Artedel 1932 CA 4 Artedel CA 5+ Casa Particular 3 bedroom penthouse Visually stunning, historically fascinating Welcoming Stylish and contemporary feel. Beautiful 360-degree view Calle Campanario No. 63, e/ San Lazaro y Laguna, Centro Havana; Av Primera 26, e/ 15 and 17, Vedado (+53) 7-863 6203 Carmita CA 4 Atlantic CA 5+ Aurora CA 4 Penthouse + luxury apartments Casa Particular The ultimate in luxury Calle 15 No. 962 apart. 5, e/ Calle 8 y calle 10, Vedado Calle D street, esq 1ma, Vedado Attractive penthouse (+53) 7-833-8659 (+53) 7-830 8727 Concordia CA 5+ Doris CA 5 Habana CA 4 Luxury House 3 bedroom apartment Casa Particular Casa Particular Beautiful house with a pool a little out of town Beautifully designed and spacious with 5 balconies Lovely sun drenched apartment. Friendly Beautiful colonial townhouse, great location Calle 19b No. 21421, e/ 21 y 214 Rpto. Atabey Calle Concordia, Centro Habana 19th Street No. 1211 apart 3, e/ 18 y 20. Vedado Calle Habana No. 209, e/ Empedrado, y Tejadillo, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-272-5027 Habana Vista (+53) 5-254-5240 CA 5 Julio y Elsa (+53) 7- 861 0253 CA 5 Lilly CA 5 Manolos CA 5 Casa Particular Casa Particular Casa Particular Luxury House Two storey penthouse b&b with private pool Cluttered bohemian feel. Hospitable Incredible view of the seafront Family environment. Up-market Calle 13 No. 51 esq N Vedado Consulado No. 162, e/ Colon y Trocadero Calle G No.301 e/ 13 y 15, Apto 13, Vedado 1st Ave e/ Calle 46 & 60 No. 4606, Miramar (+53) 5-388-7866 Miramar 205 (+53) 7-203-4273 (+53) 7-861 8027 CA 5 Miramar 301 CA 5 Portería CA 5+ Rosa D’Ortega CA 5 Luxury House Luxury House Casa Particular Boutique B&B 10 bedroom luxury private villa with swimming pool 4 bedrooms private luxury villa with swimming pool Amazing antiques, lovely house Beautiful and welcoming large home Calle 4 No. 310 e/ Calles 13 y 15, Vedado Patrocinio No. 252 esq. a Juan Bruno Zayas , 10 de Octubre (+53) 7-833-8670. Siboney 33 CA 5 Teresita CA 4 Verano Azul CA 5 (+53) 7-641-4329 Vitrales CA 5 Luxury House Casa Particular Casa Particular Boutique B&B 5 bedroom private villa, swimming pool. Elegant, old-fashioned green Vedado mansion Suburban home. Great art & food Hospitable, attractive and reliable boutique hotel Paseo No. 208 e/ Línea and Calle 11, Vedado Calle 42 No. 1514 Miramar Calle Habana No. 106 e/ Cuarteles y Chacon Old Havana (+53) 7-830 2649 You’ve waited Long Enough January 2014 (+53) 7-866-2607 Produced by .com Atlantic Penthouse CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Ultimate Havana Penthouse Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for Ultimate Havana luxury. Stylish, exclusive, private and beautiful. Don’t Miss The rooftop infinity pool. Calle D street, esq 1ma, Vedado Artedel Penthouse CA 5+ CA TOP PICK 3 Bedroom penthouse Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for Stylish and contemporary furniture along with a beautiful 360-degree view over Havana Don’t Miss Ydalgo – an impeccable host, discreet or gregarious, as you prefer Av Primera 26, e/ 15 and 17, Vedado (+53) 7-830 8727 Casa Concordia CA 5 CA TOP PICK 3 Bedroom apartment Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for Beautifully designed and spacious apartment with 5 balconies offering views of the city and sea Don’t Miss Feeling a part of Centro Habana, the beating heart of the city. Calle Concordia Centro Habana Casa Vitrales CA 5 CA TOP PICK Boutique Bed & Breakfast Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for Incredibly hospitable, attractive and reliable boutique hotel in Old Havana. Don’t Miss Osmani’s gregarious warmth. Sundowners on the roof terrace. Calle Habana No 106 Entre Cuarteles y Chacon, Old Havana (+53) 7-866-2607 You’ve waited Long Enough January 2014 Produced by .com