In this issue: Some important reminders!

NEXT CLUB
MEETINGS
Welcome to the June Newsletter
June Meeting
Green Square Community Hall
3 Joynton Avenue
Zetland
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7pm Tuesday 10 June 2014
Lee will do a demonstration on
Australian Native bonsai
techniques. Bring in your natives to
work on.
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Demonstration workshop on Australian Natives by Lee.
Club workshop – Australian Natives
Pot Sale – great bargains!
7pm Tuesday 8 July 2014
Root pruning workshop for
deciduous trees. Sue will
commence with a demonstration.
Annual General Meeting.
CONTACT DETAILS
0432 461 025
[email protected]
sydneycitybonsai.org.au
PO Box 486
Summerhill NSW 2130
COMMITTEE
Patron Dorothy Koreshoff
President Bryan
Vice President Sue
Secretary tba
Treasurer Chris
Newsletter Editor Roslyn
Librarian Marianna
Catering Philip
Committee Lee & Tony
MEMBERSHIP
Full Membership $40.00
Concession $25.00
Family $55.00
Pensioner $25.00
SCBC wishes to thank Sydney City
Council for their continued support
for our club by providing the hall at
a reduced rate.
Chris and Bryan are kindly donating pots in support of the club. So snap up a bargain.
In this issue:
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Azalea specialist, Brenda Parker speaks at the May SCBC meeting – see pages 2-3
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Caring and styling azalea bonsai by Brenda Parker – page 4
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SCBC trees from May meeting - page 5
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Azalea Types & the Events Calendar – page 6
Some important reminders!
July Annual General Meeting (AGM): Active member participation is critical to our
club’s success. At the AGM in July we spill out all Committee members and elect the
new Committee for the year. Current Committee members are listed in the left-hand
column. Due to Constantine’s departure overseas, we have lost our Secretary and Chris
has been covering both positions in the short term. Join in the fun of being in the
Committee (an extra once per month meeting at the Stanmore pub which serves really
scrumptious food, a little bit of paper work; and an opportunity to learn and contribute to
bonsai).
Membership dues for the coming year are due in July
SCBC Coffee, tea and biscuit bowl needs 50 cents each month if you want
refreshments on offer at the club meetings.
SCBC Library: Newer members may not be aware that SCBC has a bonsai library at
the Community Hall. Financial members can sign out a book or magazine for one
month. It is critical that these books are returned so others can also enjoy them.
SCBC Trees in Training: Those members who are training the 5 SCBC trees (Chris,
Roz, Tony, Anthony), don’t forget to bring them in for the July meeting to discuss their
progress. We need someone to take on the Ficus, left by Constantine.
AZALEA BONSAI SPECIALIST, BRENDA PARKER AT MAY SCBC
Guest speaker and azalea bonsai expert,
Brenda Parker, provides many insights into
how to grow and care for azalea bonsai
In May, SCBC members had
the pleasure of hearing an
extended and informative talk
on azalea bonsai from the
long running President of the
Illawarra Bonsai Society.
Brenda is a well known expert in azalea bonsai and is the
current President of Suiseki Australia [viewing stones].
There were a few wild varieties (azaleas) found in Japan and in
North America but it has only been in the last 200-300 years that
explorers have collected and distributed many specimens from the
east to botanists, and hybridizing has produced many hundreds
and hundreds of varieties that we know and love today.
When azaleas arrived in Europe they were named azalea from the
Greek word ‘Azaleos’, meaning arid, in reference to the type of dry
mountain soil they grow in with decaying mulch to protect the fine
fibrous roots.
To save confusion, from now on I will only describe and speak of
azaleas, the shrubs that we use for gardens, in pots and for
bonsai.
Brenda has kindly provided SCBC with her article (revised
edition) on “my personal experience with growing these
fabulous trees which I have done for many, many years with
success.” Dispersed through the article are photos of
azaleas in flower brought by Brenda.
Azaleas by Brenda Parker
What other plant puts on a more magnificent show than
these shrubs when azaleas are in full bloom? They are in
just about every garden from the mountains to the sea, in
nearly every colour imaginable and ranging from just a few
inches high to massive trees (Rhododendrons). In the wild
they grow in full sun, dappled shade and there are even a
few that are epiphytes (Vireyas), meaning that they grow in
the forks of other trees, clinging to branches, on rocks or on
the side of cliffs. They are found from the foothills at sea
level to a height of about 18,000 feet.
Azalea (from garden dig up)
When azaleas arrived in Europe and England it was the botanists
that wanted to raise hybrids that would be used as floral potted
plants for indoor use and for growing in greenhouses. These
plants were primarily raised and forced into flower for home
decoration and then discarded, as they would not grow in the
harsh European winters. It was in the early 1800s that the
Belgians were the chief producers of the plants known today as
Belgian Indica azaleas that were hardier, evergreen and produced
double and semi double flowers. Similar hybridizing work was
carried out by botanists in England, America and Japan and they
can also claim their fame in the varieties that they have produced.
England for their Knap Hill, Exbury and Illam hybrids, America the
Rutherford and Kerrigan, and Japan for Kurume and Satsukis to
name but a few, and I can assure you the list goes on and on.
Azalea (cultivar Splendens Indica)
The word ‘rhododendron’, loosely translated means ‘rose
tree. Azaleas, rhododendrons and vireyas (tropical types)
are all classed and known under the one family name –
rhododendrons, and botanically there is no difference
between them. They originated in China, the Himalayan
Mountains and the cooler parts of south Asia and the first
noted record of these plants dates back to 400 BC.
’
Kurume Azalea (cultivar Hatsu giri)
page. 2
CULTIVATING AZALEA BONSAI BY BRENDA PARKER
Satsuki azaleas, I think are a subject all of their own, but
briefly these azaleas are highly revered in Japan and there are
hundreds of clubs specializing in these azaleas as bonsai.
SOIL – Bonsai potting mix broken down with sharp river sand
to make it very porous to allow oxygen to reach the roots.
Forget using potting mixes with added peat moss if you have a
watering system as the peat stays too moist and the soil then
becomes rancid causing root rot. If you do use peat-based
mixes in bonsai pots and forget to water a few days, the peat
becomes very hard and will not allow water to penetrate to
reach the roots and when the fine azalea roots dry out it
means trouble. Maybe in a large garden pot it could be alright,
but I am a bit wary in small pots. Remember they grow in well
drained soil on mountain slopes in the wild only protected by
decaying leaf litter.
Kurume azalea from old garden dig up
The word Satsuki comes from the old Japanese translation of
‘fifth moon’, in other words relating to the flowering time which
occurs around the fifth month of the oriental lunar calendar. On
one satsuki azalea you often get between 2 and 5 different
coloured flowers on the one bush. Botanically, satsuki azaleas
are classed as unstable hence the high amount of ‘sporting’
(different coloured flowers), but the Japanese have used their
difference as a specialized art form.
So far the azaleas mentioned are evergreens, but there are the
deciduous ones that grow in the cooler districts that have a
spindly growth pattern and have brightly coloured flowers in
yellow, orange, apricot, green, red and mauve and are also
perfumed, whereas the evergreens come in white, pink and red
and most are not perfumed.
Kurume azalea (Peach Blossom)
FERTILIZER – Azaleas require an acid soil and after they
have settled down after repotting I use either Dynamic Lifter or
Osmocote slow release specifically for azaleas and
rhododendrons, whatever I have on hand. As an ongoing
regime I use Miracid, which is an inorganic fertilizer especially
designed for acid loving plants and this is a very popular
product in America. This product is now getting very hard to
find but Osmocote now have an identical product that is readily
available. It is in a box in powder form and is very
inexpensive.
For many years I have grown azaleas in bonsai pots and every
year I am rewarded with beautiful blooms set against bright
fresh green foliage and I can guarantee they are not as ‘finicky’
Remember that azaleas are not gross feeders so it would be
as maybe you have been led to believe.
better to give them less but more often at fortnightly intervals
or even when your time permits. Seasol is another product I
They grow in full sun all year round, get watered by the watering
use if I think that the root system needs an extra boost.
system and get repotted on an average every 2 or 3 years.
Seaweed solutions contain elements known as mannitol and
They strike readily from long cuttings, will keep indoors while in
alginic acid, which help to acidify the soil and help the plant to
flower for quite a long time, shoot back on old wood, easy to
absorb nutrients. Especially good for azaleas, camellias,
train – what more could you expect from a magnificent
gardenias, and pieris etc. i.e. any acid loving plants. If the soil
specimen to work with. The types I have grown and had
is too alkaline, it will be difficult for azaleas to take up iron and
success with are gumpos (small up to 12 inches), kurumes,
magnesium.
indicas, satsukis, kusianum and Belgian indicas, and a few
others.
If you are not happy with the amount of flowers you get, you
can give a couple of doses through the year of sulphate of
potash, Phostrogen, More Bloom or Bloom Buster (usually
Cultivating Azalea Bonsai
I have prepared some cultural notes on what I do in my used for orchids), but be warned, follow manufacturer’s
situation, but there may be some adjustments you may have to directions closely or if in doubt lower the dosage. You need to
do in your space, and only by trial and error and understanding study the NPK’s on the label of fertilizers and look for very high
how they grow and their simple requirements, that you too can ‘K’ (Potassium) level to ensure lots of flowers. This also
improves flower quality and quantity.
be successful.
page 3
CARING FOR AND STYLING AZALEA BONSAI BY BRENDA PARKER
PEST AND DISEASES – I am still of the belief that if the soil STYLING – Azalea branches are very brittle and snap very easily.
is perfect the tree is healthy, but there is always that chance I only put wire on very flexible branches and then I put it on very
that these bugs come along to spoil your day.
loosely as they mark very easily. If a branch does snap (not
completely off), use it to your advantage and tape over with
When the weather starts to warm up (about mid September), sealant and then grafting tape – they heal really well. This is a
I spray the underside and top of the leaves with Confidor or unique way to make bends in a somewhat straight branch.
Sharp Shooter and continue to do this again in about mid
October and then again in late December. This is a systemic
spray to abate the red spider and lace bug that like to gnaw
at the under surface of the leaves resulting in the leaves
getting a ‘silver’ appearance. It looks unsightly but it will not
harm the tree. When the new growth appears these old
leaves usually are shed and are renewed all over again, but
for displaying purposes, you would not display a tree in this
condition.
Once the flowers emerge there is a fungal disease that
makes the flowers wilt and turn very mushy. It is called petal
blight and spraying with Bayleton at the time you start to see
colour in the buds is a good time to stop or reduce it. This
fungus attacks the base of the flower where the petals join
the calyx and it is advisable to remove these damaged
flowers and dispose of in the garbage bin, not in the
compost bin, otherwise the problem will be compounded
next year. When azaleas are in flower it is advisable only to
water the soil level only and not the flowers, and usually
when they are in flower my watering system is usually turned
off.
Only wire on flexible branches as azalea branches are brittle
REPOTTING – You can repot an azalea at any time of the year
even in full flower because of the fibrous root system. After
repotting place the tree in a cool position and keep moist but not
wet. A dose of Seasol helps with the disturbance of the roots.
Ideally the best time to repot is after flowering in spring. I never
add fertilizer when repotting only after when I can see new growth
Chlorosis is a condition where the leaves usually turn yellow
appearing. Only apply Osmocote on the soil surface and not
with very defined green veins which indicate a lack of iron
under the tree in the pot. Azaleas are surface rooted and surface
and/or magnesium. As the deficiency of iron or magnesium
feeders and it will be only wasted out of the drainage holes.
is hard to detect, mix 1oz. of iron sulphate (or iron chelates)
and 1 oz. of magnesium sulphate (Epsom salts) in 5 litres of
water and apply over foliage and soil surface.
PRUNING – Pruning is always carried out after flowering as
with all other trees. If pruning is not carried out after every
flowering, the natural growth habit of azaleas is that they get
very leggy with foliage mainly at the tips. Tip pruning is
continually carried out right up until Christmas and no later
than to the end of January, as this is the time when buds are
starting to form for the next flowering season. Remember to
also remove any seed heads as this will weaken your tree.
PROPAGATION – The usual applies to azaleas, seeds (not
common), cuttings, aerial layers, ground layering and of
course dig-ups from old gardens or demolition sites, grafting
etc. Cuttings are easy to strike and usually are taken in late
December to early February, about 6-10cms long with only
the leaves left at the tip, placed in a mix of very sandy soil
and lots crammed into a 10cm pot, watered and kept in a
very damp and semi shaded spot in a fern or shade house.
I don’t usually cover the cuttings with a plastic bag as my
shade house is always damp and humid and my success
rate is very high.
Azaleas can be repotted any
time of the year because of
their fibrous root system.
POTS – These are usually deeper than most and coloured to
compliment the flowers. Remember that deep pots drain better
than shallow pots.
I hope that my experience with azaleas will entice you to try some
for yourselves and I am sure with great success. They are such a
diverse group of plants that you will be enthralled with them for
many years. To complete your bench display you could also add
some small camellia bonsais that enjoy exactly the same
conditions and perform just as well. You could be the envy of your
friends with all of those beautiful flowers.
page 4
SCBC trees from May meeting
Club display trees – May meeting
As the May meeting was all about azaleas, here are some
club member azaleas brought to the meeting. We are
looking for both trees in training as well as mature bonsai.
With individual member’s permission, we would like to use
some of the member’s trees for our new website gallery.
There will be a section where we follow the progress of
bonsai as they are trained over time.
Flowering Saotome azalea
Style: Informal Upright/Mini (under 15 cm).
Partially restyled to allow a few flowers
to come forth and be identified before
full shaping takes place.
Don’t throw your lost azaleas away!
Saotome azalea
Bonsai pot stand made from azalea roots
Azalea: Informal Upright (under 25cm) style. Collected
September 2013 from long neglected garden.
Has a long way to go but what a trunk!
Azalea root carving
page 5
AZALEA TYPES & EVENTS CALENDAR
Types of Azaleas by Brenda Parker
The first botanical book in Japan was called “Motokatsu”
Mizuno written in 1681 and contained 147 varieties of
indigenous azaleas. The first books on azaleas called
‘Kinshuku makura’ was published about 1692 by the Ihei
Ito in five volumes and contained references to about
350 azaleas.
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Rutherford Indicas (developed in USA) – Dorothy Gish, Rose
Queen.
Satsuki – Chojuho (treasure of longevity) – flowers stay on for
most of the year and fade to a lighter colour.
Kerrigan Indicas (USA derived form of Belgium Hybrids) –
Brides Bouquet, Ripples.
Indicum & Mucronatum Hybrids – Balsaminaeflora.
Kurumes (Japan) – Blaauw’s Pink, Christmas Cheer, Fairy
Queen, Kirin, Ward’s Ruby.
Gumpos – dwarf shrubs smothered in single flowers with frilly
edges.
August Kehr Hybrids (USA) – Anna Kehr, White Rosebud.
Nuccio Hybrids (USA) – Purple Glitters and Rose Glitters.
Satsuki azaleas are less hardy than most
azaleas and have a low and twiggy habit and
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have funnel shaped single flowers. They flower
in late spring to early summer not like other
•
varieties that flower in winter to spring.
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Kurumes are hardier than most azaleas and
can be grown in full sun in gardens.
NOTE: For the first time in Kokufu-ten history in Japan, azaleas are
Gumpos make great garden specimens and now allowed to be included in the formal display.
have large single flowers in white, pink and a
light cerise. They are very low growing and
Satsuki Azalea Festival, City of Kanuma, Japan
make more growth on the lower branches and
only reach up to about 200mm. The flowers
have a frilly edge to them.
Kyushu azalea (R. Kiusianum) is the father of
the Kurume azaleas and used for hybridizing.
These are semi to full deciduous types. You
may recognize some of the names of azaleas
and where they were developed. Belgium
Hybrids – Comtesse de Kerchove, Elsa
Kaerger, Hexe, Leopold Astrid, Paul Schaeme,
Red Poppy, Red Wing, Rosa Belton, Southern
Aurora, Violacea and Mdme. Auguste
Haaerens.
One prize winning Satzuki from 2013, cultivar Shuho-no-Hikari
Brenda’s Mdme Auguste Haaerens azalea
Held annually at end of May-early June at the Kanuma City Kaboku
Center. The two acre complex includes: a permanent exhibition and
sales area over a half acre alone, one and a half area auction area, and
greenhouses. For more information see: http://kaboku.jimdo.com/event/japan/2014/ and
http://valavanisbonsaiblog.com/2014/02/22/do-you-like-satsuki-azaleasthen-youll-love-our-new-satsuki-bonsai-tour/
BONSAI EVENTS CALENDAR
Date
Event
Details
June 7-8
Bonsai by the Harbour
S.C.E.G.S Rowing Facility, Wharf Road, Gladesville
August 21-24
27th National Bonsai Convention, “Sunrise
on Australian Bonsai”
Illawarra Bonsai Society The 15th Annual
Weekend Workshops at the Tops
Bonsai Society of Australia Annual Show,
Gold Coast, Queensland
Newcastle Bonsai Society Annual Show
Charlestown Bowling Club, Lincoln Street, Charlestown
September 5-7
September 13-14
November 7-9
Tops Conference Centre, Stanwell Tops
Don Moore Community Centre, North Rocks
© 2006 Sydney City Bonsai Club | www.sydneycitybonsai.org.au | [email protected]
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