go club racing from scratch, with a carisma m40s
Transcription
go club racing from scratch, with a carisma m40s
Carisma RTR Electric 1/10th 4WD Touring Car By stephen bass Who’s for Clubbing? Go Club Racing from Scratch, with a Carisma M40S SPOILT FOR CHOICE Considering that I live in a fairly rural part of the UK, I think I am very lucky in that for many years, there has been a very healthy club racing scene in the region. In fact, within a 30-minute drive of my home I have a choice of no less than seven clubs offering weekday evening winter indoor club racing, on a choice of carpet or polished wood track surfaces. What’s more, if I were to allow an extra 15 minutes travelling time, my choice would extend to ten venue options, with a choice of either carpet or wood, every night of the week! That is all well and good, but everything in my ‘R/C garage’ is nitro powered, and in any case, I usually confine my race day activities to assisting my son on the spanners or in the pit lane. So, in an effort to help throw some light on getting into the club racing scene, I was 16 WWW.RADIORACECAR.COM 03/10 tasked with sourcing a suitable car and having a bash at club racing; here’s my story as a touring car novice, and the lessons learnt along the way. SETTING THE SCENE I checked out the BRCA website www.brca.org and had a chat with my local hobby shop, to find out which nights my local clubs race. I don’t know which club I want to join yet, so choosing a car I can race on a variety of surfaces would be good. Cost was going to be an important factor because I needed to buy quite a few things to get started. All of these things pointed to an electric powered RTR 4WD model being the obvious choice for me, as this represented good value for money and gives me all the essential ingredients. I chose the 1/10th rrci feature Main Pic: Note attention to detail, winglets front and rear, front splitter, door mirrors, rear wing Carisma ‘Vodaphone’ Mercedes C Class DTM car, as this gave me a complete RTR package, including all the radio gear, batteries and a mains charger. It could easily have been a different make or scale of car, but after a trip to the nearest club, I thought it looked a popular choice, and the kit motor already complied with their rules. Whilst this was enough basic equipment to get started, I was clearly going to have to get a few other bits and pieces. But first let’s take a closer look at the Carisma M40S, and see exactly what we got for our money. UNDER THE SKIN The bodyshell is beautifully finished in the primary sponsor’s livery, with a high level of realistic detail including a removable front splitter, front and rear winglets and that biplane main rear wing. It is actually modelled on the 2002 DTM C Class car of Bernd Schneider’s, the most successful driver in DTM history, who hung up his helmet after the 2008 season at the age of 44. The factory applied decals were all perfectly applied and positioned on the bodyshell, which is retained by four ‘R’ clips which are actually handed. Attention to detail or what! The width of the car is 185 mm but it can be adjusted to 190 mm, making it compatible with a huge range of optional 1/10th shells. JUMP IN THE TUB A plastic tub features a central shaft drive to the front and rear geared differentials, above which is a central reinforcing upper chassis deck. I was slightly disappointed to see that there is no foam protection to the plastic front bumper, so my first job was to fabricate a bumper from a sheet of foam. When I got the shape I wanted I simply drilled a couple of holes to allow it to slide over the front body posts. To hold it in place I slid a couple of old wing mount buttons down the body posts and retained each side using a body clip through the lowest hole in each post. Simple! Now I don’t have to worry too much about damaging that pretty bodyshell when the scenery jumps out at me. 03/10 WWW.RADIORACECAR.COM 17 Carisma RTR Electric 1/10th 4WD Touring Car Above: Front end layout with large plastic bumper From front to rear, the right-hand side features an MS-103 steering servo. On top of this sits the MRX 04 receiver and its front mounted ON/OFF switch, alongside the MSC-04RB forward/reverse electronic speed controller (ESC), and the 19 turn brushed motor. The pinion and spur gears are both 0.6 module, and I was pretty sure the 20T pinion meant it’s going to be over geared for the first venue I was going to race at, so I made a note to look into this before I got to race it for real. The left-hand side of the chassis is cut away to ventilate the 6-cell NiMH battery pack, which is restrained by ‘R’ clips and it can be inverted to suit a LiPo or stick pack. The kit comes with a 1400 mAh NiMH 7.2 V stick pack (and slow charger), but I will need to buy another three packs if I am to cope with the quick-fire format of three heats plus final on a typical club night. I will also need a fast charger, as it is impractical to consider charging all four packs using a wall charger with an output of just 0.4 Amps. Even a moderately priced charger will comfortably do the job about nine times quicker. A couple more items on my ‘To Do’ list include removing the two power sapping bullet connectors on the motor wires, and to solder the wires from the ESC direct to the motor. If you are careful, this can be done using the existing wires from the ESC, as they are just long enough. The other performance modification that I shall make is to remove the Tamiya type battery plugs and replace these with a more efficient connector. POWER PLAY The transmission is a fairly simple design featuring a spur driven central propshaft. There was about 2 mm of play at the end of the shaft dog bone, but rather than shim this further, I decided to leave it as there needs to be some movement there to compensate for any flex in the chassis. The propshaft is plastic, and not what you might describe as being straight! Later running confirmed that whilst this 18 WWW.RADIORACECAR.COM 03/10 Above: Chassis underside is well vented for motor and cells Above: Stick pack batteries (and slow charger) included in the RTR kit is enough to get you going! didn’t cause any problems in itself, the resulting vibrations from the out of balance shaft must have an adverse effect on efficiency and performance. The shaft drives the front and rear geared differentials, with steel dog bone driveshafts transmitting the power to all four wheels. The wheels are attached using a standard 12 mm hex hub and 4 mm centre locknut. The multi-spoke wheels are fitted with 24 mm wide moulded rubber slicks with foam inserts. rrci feature Above: 19T motor was ideal for indoor racing. Just the right amount of power without overheating thanks to vented chassis The simplicity of design is continued with the suspension geometry, but you do get two upper and lower mounting points for the front and rear shocks. The front upper camber link offers two inboard roll centre mounting points, whilst the rear camber links have no less than three inboard and outboard mounts. You do not get adjustable turnbuckles with the M40S, but front toe and camber are adjustable via the threaded link arms. It’s the same story at the rear where you can adjust camber, but not toe. Droop adjustment screws are located in each of the lower wishbones and ride height adjustment can be changed by swapping shock spring preload spacers, although no spacers or spares are included with the basic kit. We aren’t told about the standard spring rates or what shock oil has been installed by the factory, and whilst I think I will have to go softer and lighter for the low grip polished wood surfaces, for other surfaces I’m going to try the standard settings first. Accessing the lower motor adjustment screw is a bit of a challenge, so I swapped both of the standard crosshead screws with pan head hex screws and washers so I could use a 2.5 mm ball-ended Allen driver. There is an inspection hole in the chassis top deck to access the motor pinion set screw. If you open up the hole a little (working towards the centre of the chassis), it will make swapping pinions a little easier as you won’t then be working at that slightly awkward angle. It is, of course, very important to set the gear mesh between the motor pinion and spur gear, for the smallest amount of backlash. Mesh the gears too tight and you could overheat the motor and possibly damage the electronics, but too loose and you risk stripping the spur gear. Rotate the spur fully through one revolution, repeatedly checking for that telltale ‘tick’ to ensure there are no tight or loose points. Below: Always a good idea to mark and ID your wheels before the first run Above: ‘Bot dots’ are included for driver training and practice, perfect if you don’t have a proper track near you! Right: Also in the box… 27 MHz radio, battery and slow charger, plus radio batteries, it’s plug and play Apart from that the Carisma is very easy to work on. If you don’t already have some basic tools, I suggest you buy a good quality cross head ‘Posidrive’ No 1, and a 3 mm Philips screwdriver. Those, and a pair of long nose pliers will achieve 99% of all maintenance, as you get a motor pinion Allen key and wheel nut box spanner in with the kit. Stock brushed motors are equipped with notoriously hard brushes that take a long time to fully bed in on the motor’s commutator, but it’s then just a case of applying ‘comm drops’ to the motor and running the motor directly off a 4-cell battery pack for a few minutes. I flushed the motor out with motor cleaner spray, and repeated the process three or four times until I could see that the brushes were sitting much better on the commutator, and the motor was going to deliver so much more power and revs thanks to the brush surfaces being able to pass current into the motor more efficiently. PRACTICE TIME One of the surprise items that came with my Carisma RTR package was a set of yellow plastic ‘bot dots’, shallow domed circular corner markers, which can be strategically positioned in a safe open area to help beginners learn all about throttle, braking and steering control. However, before all that I slotted in a freshly charged battery and 03/10 WWW.RADIORACECAR.COM 19 Carisma RTR Electric 1/10th 4WD Touring Car Above: Standard hex hubs adapt to all popular 1/10 touring car wheels Above: We changed the Tamiya plug for something better and removed the bullet connectors, before soldering the motor wires direct... checked that all the radio settings were good. The manual explains the simple process of the LED assisted one-touch ESC set-up, so after a quick check on the steering trim and EPA and I’m ready to go. Before I actually get to race the M40S I will fully check all suspension and steering geometry, but for now the kit settings look fine. So I headed for an unused tarmac car park in a nearby village and set out my imaginary track. I positioned the bot dots so that I would have two heavy braking areas and sharp turns, a chicane and a fast sweeping curve linking my two hairpins. An enjoyable session saw me get acquainted with the car, then I headed back home and set about preparing for my first ‘proper’ outing with the Carisma in just a few days’ time at the East Shrewsbury Buggy Racing Club in the small village of Rodington. This was where my son had his very first race meeting some 18 years ago, and where the race format is very much the same today as it was all those years ago. FINAL PREPARATION You can just go and race the M40S straight out of the box. However, there are a number of things that are worth checking first. Here then, are a few tips that you may want to consider checking out before heading off to the track. They aren’t expensive, but they will help to keep your car on the track as opposed to being in the pits, and they will also help to make it better to drive and maybe a little quicker. As I mentioned earlier, with three quick-fire heats and a final, the single battery supplied with the car wasn’t going to be enough. Remember, I am a rookie on a budget, so I don’t need anything too fancy, and £50-£60 should be enough to cover my extra three battery packs and an inexpensive charger. I decided to go for a Prolux charger that will operate from both a mains supply or a 12 V leisure battery. Mains power is available at all my local clubs, so I don’t need to worry about the added expense of a 12 V leisure battery just yet. My practice session revealed that the car had very free-running differentials, and they were also a little noisy. So my next job was to fill both diff cases with grease, using slightly thicker grease in the front diff than the rear. This would quieten the transmission down, and make the car less likely to swap ends when turning into tight corners (of which there are many at Rodington), and make the car drive better out of the corners. Accessing either differential is quick and easy, by simply removing the three upward facing screws holding the shock tower on, followed by the six screws holding the upper diff casing in place, and the top cover can be lifted off and the diff removed. What’s more, all nine screws are exactly the same, so you don’t have to worry about ‘what goes where,’ nor do you need to worry about diff orientation, as they will only fit in the bulkheads one way! I used the 3 mm Phillips screwdriver to remove the three small countersunk screws to ‘split’ each diff, which revealed only the lightest covering of grease on the gears. I would suggest adding proper grease is a worthwhile exercise, as you will enjoy the double benefit of improved performance and longer life from your transmission. 20 WWW.RADIORACECAR.COM 03/10 Above: ...The result is neater and more efficient Lastly, it’s a good idea to apply some lubricant where the bevel gear and centre shaft pinions mesh. Although these are enclosed, it’s best to use a lubricant that will stay on the gears and not fly off the first time you switch on. I use Holts Spray Grease (www.holtsauto. com) for this, or if you prefer less mess, try Rock Oil Chain Wax (www. rockoil.co.uk) which are equally effective and available from most car accessory outlets like Halfords, but allow it to dry before spinning the transmission under power for the first time. Another tip which I have mentioned in previous features that can potentially make your transmission last twice as long, is to swap driveshafts around after each rebuild so they share the wear on both sides of the dog bones, diff out-drives and the axle drive cups, extending the life of all these parts. All that remains is to sort out the gearing. If I was really starting from scratch, I would probably buy a few extra 0.6 module pinions to give myself some gearing options, but as I already have a set of 48 DP pinion gears in my son’s pit box, ranging from 14 to 30 teeth it would solve all my problems if I could just swap the spur gear to match. I found that the Robinson Racing (RRP-1875) 75-tooth 48 DP spur is a direct swap, so with that fitted, I went for a 19-tooth pinion which gave me a slightly lower drive ratio of 3.9:1 from the kit standard 3.6:1. ALMOST READY I found that most of the battery packs I would be using in the Carisma required some packing to stop them from floating around in the battery tray, but because they all needed differing amounts, I decided to use strips of servo tape to do the job, rather than just adding some padding on the chassis. rrci feature Above: Working on the M40S is easy, with good access to most components... Above: ...Although the lower motor screw is difficult to reach so we changed ours later Above: Servo and servo saver horn. Note the mounting plate above for the radio receiver Next I made a note of the frequency crystals, but there was only standard camber and toe one heat in my class on that night settings, and gave the car a and most drivers were on 2.4 GHz, final trial run to re-check all which doesn’t require interchangeable the radio parameters. It was frequency crystals. at this point that I discovered After this, I lent a hand to the folk quite a lot of free play in building the track, rolling out and taping the driveshafts. None are down the carpet. As more people arrived shimmed, and checking the there was a huge range of models being manual confirmed that only the unpacked in the pitting area. 1/10 and centre driveshaft is actually 1/14 touring cars, F1 cars, 1/12 scale, shimmed with ‘O’ rings. So I stock cars and 1/18 scale buggies and a dismantled each corner of the truck or two. car and fitted a small section A heat sheet was printed and I noted of fuel tubing (shock ‘O’ rings my heat and race number, as the latter work just as well) into each item also related to my transponder outdrive, using a dab of diff number. Before I knew it, it’s my first grease to hold them in place heat, so I placed my car at the back during re-assembly. A final run of the field and let everyone else get confirmed a much smoother away before I tentatively made my way running transmission at the around the track. As I crossed the loop full extent of suspension travel for the first time I heard a confirmation and steering lock, and I am less ‘beep’ as my transponder recorded the likely to have a driveshaft pop start of my qualifying run. I was just out during a race. concentrating on getting around and The club runs hand-out staying on the track, but it seemed like transponders for lap counting, in no time at all I was being caught and so I made a small Lexan lapped so I tried to just go wide on the mounting bracket which would next corner without loosing too much retain it with another, larger, speed to let the quick guys through. Above: Removing either diff is a quick and simple process body clip. This will suffice but For the second round of qualifying that could only be rebuilt the right way round! If only they a personal transponder (PT) is I thought I would try a set of RP30 were all this easy! most definitely on my wish list. moulded slicks from Take Off. These Although I can race as a ‘guest’ at my first meeting, I have already come as a pre-glued set (RP30BGL) mounted on white-dished wheels sent off my membership application for my 2010 BRCA licence. Many and are a BRCA approved race tyre. With some Jack the Gripper R/C car racing clubs are affiliated to the BRCA and it is a condition of additive across the whole width of the rear tyres and the inner half of entry that you must be a member. I won’t go into the many benefits the fronts, the improvement was immediately noticeable, and even at of BRCA membership just now, but you can get all your questions my pedestrian race pace I could feel the grip coming up after about answered by visiting their website at www.brca.org This is also an four laps as they got some heat into them. A word of warning here excellent place to find out where your local clubs are and to learn though, do check with your club first to see if they allow tyre additives, about the rules of racing whatever class or scale you choose. and if they do, also ensure you know which type/s they allow before parting with your cash. RACE DAY 1 After three runs I found that I was enjoying myself more and being After charging my battery packs at home and fitting fresh cells in intimidated less by the quicker drivers. I was also going a little quicker the transmitter, I headed off for my first meeting. On arrival I grabbed now, and even starting to think about how I could make the car handle a table and set-up my gear in the pitting area. I then booked myself better! I ended up in a totally predictable last place on the grid for my into the meeting with the race director who needed to know my name, final, and that’s where I finished. However, I didn’t care, I had finished, my radio frequency, and the class I was racing. This data, plus my and I had enjoyed myself. What’s more, I hadn’t ruined anyone’s BRCA number and a rating of my ability (usually on a scale of 1-10) evening with my rookie driving errors, which I must confess was my was entered into his archive file within the race control software. At primary concern when I first arrived, and the Carisma was still in one a bigger meeting I would be expected to have at least three sets of piece! 03/10 WWW.RADIORACECAR.COM 21 Carisma RTR Electric 1/10th 4WD Touring Car Above: Ball raced gear diff and metal dog bone driveshaft Above: Factory diff grease is adequate but minimal. We later added plenty of much thicker grease for improved lubrication and better ‘action’ RACE DAY 2 My next outing would be on a very low traction polished wood track, so I was in for a bit of guesswork so far as set-up was concerned. I was happy with the balance and traction of the Carisma on the carpet at Rodington, so I left the differentials as they were. However, I certainly needed to refill the shocks with thinner oil and fit some appropriate tyres. I dug out one of my son’s old set-up sheets for his touring car, and found that he ran 10 weight shock oil front and back, so that’s what I went for. Although the next track was longer than at Rodington, it was more a case of it having a longer lap than being a faster track, so for now, I was content with just a shock oil and tyre change, leaving the gearing as it was. I also moved the shocks so that they were standing up more on their outer mountings. When I visited my local hobby store I bought a pair of hard and soft comm cleaning sticks, enabling me to give the motor a quick service before its next outing. I also bought a set of wheels and some soft compound mini pin tyres and inserts that I know would work on polished wood. A trial fit of these at home proved that I had to remove a tiny amount of the bodywork around the rear wheel arches, as they are a higher profile than the moulded tyres that I had run so far. So, with that done and the car loaded up again, I set off for my second meeting, this time in a sports hall at Madeley, the home of the Telford Hot Trax Club. The polished wooden floor felt like racing in the wet on slicks, and called for a very delicate touch on the throttle. The slightest brush against the track markings or contact with another car would send me spinning or sliding off with little chance of recovery! All the same, it was such great fun, and made the job of understanding what the car was doing a lot easier than when I ran it on carpet. Here I played around with the throttle and steering and learnt the best way to get it to turn into a corner, and, having achieved that, I experimented with lines and throttle application coming out of corners. To anyone watching this, they probably just thought that I didn’t have a clue what I was doing, and that the car was all over the place, or maybe that I should take up drifting! But no, I promise, I was trying to learn as much as possible about the car and the track, in what little time I had. To my surprise however, the thing that I struggled with the most was getting the car up to a respectable speed on the straights. The Above: For racing we fitted some sticky RP30 moulded slicks which gave a noticeable improvement on carpet and tarmac Above: As I only have 48 pitch pinions in my pit box, I swapped the kit 0.6 module spur gear (right) for a white 75T ‘Robinson Racing’ 48DP equivalent Above: Sliding around a downhill left on the tarmac test 22 WWW.RADIORACECAR.COM 03/10 Above: Main spur and rear diff pinion assembly is also ball raced. Centre driveshaft dog bones locate in drive cup at front and rear combination of too much power too soon, and over-correcting the steering got me into many non-recoverable tank slapping moments! Hmm, maybe that rear diff could do with being a bit looser after all. However, when I did get that bit right, it was almost invariably followed by getting my entry speed and line wrong at the next corner, with chronic understeer or completely backwards! I thoroughly enjoyed the evening and came away feeling that I had learned more about the car, and I had some ideas about set-up changes to suit racing on polished wood. Isn’t that how it goes for all of us in this sport, and what makes us strive to do better all the time? TARMAC TEST After my two club races I visited a local on road track to shake down the Carisma in a private test session. My busy schedule prevented me from racing the Carisma on tarmac in the time allowed, but I fully intend to do so during the 2010 season. On the day of the test it was dry, but the track was still damp and greasy from overnight rain, and it clearly wasn’t going to dry out during what was a typical gloomy winter’s day. I decided to run the car on the kit tyres and also the RP30’s, both of which had performed well on carpet. Perhaps it was the slightly harder compound of the kit tyres, but I found they were giving slightly more grip in the slippery conditions. I was still running the lightly damped set-up that I had used on polished wood, and it worked really well! The test was proving to be great fun, power sliding the Carisma around the greasy track, but if the truth be told, it wasn’t teaching me a whole lot about how it would work in the dry! And as to gearing, I hadn’t got a clue because I was spinning the wheels wildly. So the dry tarmac learning curve will have to be climbed another day. So that concluded a very hectic week from first unpacking the car to practising, tearing it apart, making modifications, racing it a couple of times and finally a thrash test on tarmac. My next outing will once again be on polished wood, but this time at the Ludlow Radio Car Club’s school hall venue, and I can’t wait! rrci feature Above: Getting defensive. Keeping a tight line on the high traction carpet QUICK SPEC Class: 1/10th 4WD Touring Car Type: RTR Electric Manufacturer: Carisma Price: £122.49 RRP WHAT YOU GET Pre-painted bodyshell 19T brushed motor 27 MHz radio Tx and Rx Forward/reverse ESC 1400 mAh NiMH battery 8 AA Tx batteries 5 Plastic ‘bot dots’ 400 mA 230 V mains charger Box spanner Motor pinion key WHAT YOU NEED CONCLUSION The Carisma M40S is an amazing value for money package that fulfils its purpose superbly. It provides the novice driver with affordable, no-nonsense machinery that is good enough to stand up to the rigours of club racing, while you develop your driving skills. It’s cheap to buy, fun and easy to drive, and you wont need a second mortgage to finance maintenance or repairs. The 4WD transmission makes for less demanding driving and gives you the chance to race on a multitude of surfaces. I shall continue to race indoors through the winter, but I fully intend to race it on tarmac once in a while during the summer, and there’s even talk of a Carisma on road event taking place mid 2010, so watch out for details of that. There isn’t a huge range of hop-ups waiting to tempt you to spend more money because that isn’t what it’s about. You can go out there and pay four times the price (or more) for your first car, but the net result is that you will probably just be hitting the scenery harder and hurting your wallet! Accept it for what it is, and the Carisma makes perfect sense. So... do you get it? You should! RRCi No 1 Posidrive 3 mm Philips Long nosed pliers disLikes No foam front bumper Plastic propshaft Tricky access to motor screws No turnbuckles Likes Fantastic value for money A truly complete RTR package Perfect starter car Enough ‘adjustability’ Looks great More than adequate performance Easy to maintain Great after sales support CONTACT For more information contact CML Distribution Telephone 01527 575349 or visit www.cmldistribution.co.uk 03/10 WWW.RADIORACECAR.COM 23